Frankfurt am Main is Germany's City of London: the country's financial powerhouse, crammed with towering, testosterone-charged architecture and luxury boutiques. The birthplace of the poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Frankfurt takes its culture as seriously as its shopping.

Where is it?
Frankfurt straddles the River Main, in the Rhein-Main region, in the state of Hesse. Nearby are the historic cities of Wiesbaden and Mainz, and, should you tire of city life, it is a short trip to some of Germany's most beautiful forests and vineyards.

What is Frankfurt famous for?
Making money. It is called “Bankfurt” and “Mainhattan” for its financial institutions and skyscrapers, and its residents are some of the wealthiest in Europe. It is also known for its cosmopolitan buzz; Frankfurt has the highest proportion of foreign inhabitants of any German city.

Can I afford to go?
The presence of big local bucks makes property in Frankfurt seriously expensive but for a weekend away, it is not as costly as visiting London or Rome. Plenty of cheap flights are available. And the city's affluence means that, as a shopping and eating destination, and a centre for arts, museums and galleries, it is rivalled by few European cities.

Do the trains run on time?
Frankfurt is known for its well-organised transport systems. The airport is Europe's largest, an efficient international hub, and the city's underground rail network, rebuilt in the 1970s, is a model system.

A bit of history
Frankfurt was the Frankish Emperor Charlemagne's royal residence in the 8th century, when it was named Franconovurd (Ford of the Franks). It became a busy, wealthy, market town and rose to political importance as the site of the election of the German kings and Holy Roman Emperors from the 12th century. In 1372 Frankfurt was declared a free, Imperial city, able to govern its own finances, and in 1585 Frankfurt's stock exchange was born. Invaders and occupiers, including the French under Napoleon, helped form the city's cosmopolitan cultural identity.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the Jewish community rose to prominence as the city's foremost bankers and merchants, but suffered persecution by the Nazis in the 1930s and 1940s. In 1944, Allied bombers destroyed the medieval city centre and, the following year, American soldiers occupied the city. Ever since, Frankfurt has been successfully remaking itself, architecturally and commercially.

What is the city like now?
Architecturally, Frankfurt is a fascinating patchwork of ancient (Altsachsenhausen, south of the river; Altstadt Höchst, west of the city centre), post-war restorations (Römerplatz, in the centre, much of which was rebuilt in 1986) and ultramodern buildings, such as the skyscrapers in the banking quarter, and the wedge-shaped Museum für Moderne Kunst (on Domstrasse, in the centre).

And the lifestyle?
Busy, day and night, with as much emphasis on leisure as work. Locals enjoy an outdoor lifestyle, with cafes and street festivals, walking and picnicking in the public parks and outdoor skating in winter.

Where can I find some culture?
For a happy days, meander among the major museums, go to the Museumsufer (museum embankment, also called Schaumainkai) and sample collections from the Deutsches Filmmuseum to the Museum alter Plastik (Museum of Ancient Sculpture, set in the beautiful 19th century mansion, Liebieghaus). Live music is a local speciality, everywhere from the Alte Oper (the Old Opera House, on Opernplatz, in the centre), to the bars, clubs and cabarets around Sachsenhausen.

Where to shop?
Shopping ranges from the exclusive boutiques in Goethestrasse, near Alte Oper (Armani, Chanel, Tiffany and Gucci) to the Saturday fleamarket along Schaumainkai. In the centre, the pedestrianised street, Zeil, offers department stores and the Zeilgalerie, which houses fifty stores including trendy interiors emporium, Dom. Try the roads around the cathedral, to the south of Zeil, or the vintage stores in Sachsenhausen, for antiques and souvenirs, including a Bembel, the carafe made for local ebbelwei (apple wine). Best for delicatessens and wine merchants is the Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse, towards Alte Oper.

What shall I eat and drink?
Specialities include ebbelwei (or ebbelwoi or apfelwein), Frankfurter Rippchen (pickled pork ribs) with sauerkraut (pickled cabbage), and Frankfurter Würstchen (smoked pork sausage).

Out and about
The best trips are to the north and west of Frankfurt, all easily reachable by public transport. Taunus is an area of forested hills, dotted with picturesque towns and castles, which includes the spa town of Bad Homburg, known for its bracing “champagne air”. Rheingau, to the west, provides the world's best Riesling wines. The historic cities of Wiesbaden and Mainz, either side of the River Rhein, make interesting day trips: do not miss the magnificent Mainz cathedral and the Taunusstrasse in Wiesbaden for antiques shopping.

When to travel
In March, the annual folk festival comes to town. In fact, the city is outstanding for music festivals and street events all year round, reaching a crescendo in summer, with the Opernplatzfest and Parade der Kulturen. In December, Frankfurt hosts one of the most magical of Germany's Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmarkt).

Before you go
Visit www.germany-tourism.co.uk, and www.frankfurt-tourismus.de

WORDS KATRINA BURROUGHS