With the back-to-college period just around the corner, it's likely that you're making preparations for moving and putting together a shopping list for all the essentials you'll need to pick up before you go.

But, while you've probably considered your bedding, books, and bathroom items, it's just as important to think about how you're going to do your laundry, too.

As shared dryers are often busy, and you won't want wet clothes hanging on show all over your dorm room, the Joseph Joseph Eclipse 3-Tier Adjustable Laundry Drying Rack, available at Amazon, is the one indoor laundry accessory I'd buy for college if I had my time again. After all, who says a laundry rack can't be chic?

Hopefully, you're clued up on how to do laundry with all the laundry tips you'll need as you head off to college. But, without the outdoor space to harness the benefits of air-drying laundry in your dorm, you'll need to dry your clothes indoors.

For this, my best recommendation is the Joseph Joseph Eclipse indoor clothes airer, which is perfect for tiny spaces. It conveniently folds fully flat for storage behind your dorm room door or under the bed, so it's effortlessly easy to pack up and put away when it's not needed, even if your dorm room is on the small side.

And, while compact to store, there's plenty of space for all your drying needs− 14 meters, to be exact − with three adaptable and individually foldable wire shelves suitable for drying a wide variety of clothing, from small tops and skirts to longer dresses, trousers, and towels.

It's also equipped with wheels for easy and convenient portability, and features a heavy-gauge steel construction with a stylish fabric exterior, so you can enjoy your dorm room space without the eyesore of drying laundry, while the screen still allows adequate ventilation for garments to dry well.

In fact, it's so well-loved by shoppers that alongside a five-star rating, Srikanth dubs it the 'Best clothes rack ever' − and I completely agree. Since I initially tested it almost two years ago, I've reached for it each and every time I've had to abandon my outdoor washing line due to bad weather and dry my clothes indoors.

'Was not sure I could justify the cost but after having it for a while, I'm super glad I did,' adds Srikanth.

Another review from verified buyer Magdalena on the Joseph Joseph site praises its 'fantastic design,' and continues, 'Even though it looks quite big, it actually doesn’t take up much space. It’s very practical, especially if you have to dry clothes in the living room − everything is nicely covered, so you don’t have to look at it, and you can simply turn the airer around. Solid, useful, and does the job well.'

Finally, a third review from Larissa describes it as the 'Perfect clothes airer for hiding your washing' − an essential quality for any small dorm room space, particularly when shared with a roommate.

'I absolutely love these,' they say, 'I bought one and then got another one because of the amount of washing we do in a week. It makes such a difference in the living room, which is unfortunately where we have to dry our laundry.

'It's super easy to put together, great quality, and looks amazing. Would recommend to anyone who needs to air-dry clothes at home.'

So, if you've been on the hunt for a product that's made for drying clothes in a small space, look no further.

More to Shop

For more laundry essentials, shop my handpicked selection of options I'd purchase if I was heading back to college tomorrow. And, if you've recently graduated or your college days are more of a distant memory, these will be just as useful at home, too.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

If you're off to college, do you know which things people who are good at laundry always do? Perfect your weekly routine with our six tips from laundry experts.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

There is something irresistibly calming about a Moroccan-inspired courtyard. Layering warm terracotta, tactile plaster walls, patterned tiles, scented plants, and intimate lighting creates an outdoor room that feels cool during the day, magical after dark, and surprisingly achievable in your backyard.

The beauty of this style lies not in copying Morocco exactly, but in borrowing its principles: shade over exposure, texture over perfection, fragrance over fussiness, and spaces designed to encourage lingering rather than rushing.

Many of these ideas also sit beautifully alongside elegant courtyard garden ideas, particularly when creating enclosed spaces that feel both timeless and deeply personal. To get started, these Moorish-inspired LED lanterns from Wayfair would bring a magical touch to your seating area.

Start With Warm, Honest Materials

The greatest mistake people make when designing a Moroccan-inspired courtyard is assuming it begins with decoration. In truth, it begins with surfaces.

The walls should feel as though they have been warmed by decades of sunshine. Floors should possess texture beneath your feet. Pots should look as though they have acquired stories before you’ve even planted them.

I’ve visited countless gardens attempting this look by scattering a few colorful cushions around a modern patio, and it rarely convinces. The successful ones all understand that atmosphere comes from the architecture first and accessories second.

If you are renovating, consider lime plaster or tadelakt-inspired finishes that soften light rather than reflecting it harshly. If structural work isn’t possible, large terracotta containers instantly introduce warmth without rebuilding the courtyard.

A generous aged terracotta planter from Pottery Barn or a rustic rose pot available through Walmart immediately anchors the space while improving with age instead of deteriorating.

Let Zellige-Style Tiles Steal The Show

Every courtyard deserves one theatrical flourish. In Moroccan design, that role often belongs to intricate zellige-style tiles. The handmade originals possess tiny imperfections that catch light differently across every surface, creating extraordinary depth.

Fortunately, you don’t need to tile an entire courtyard. A tiled tabletop from Pottery Barn, a small splashback behind an outdoor fountain, decorative stair risers, or even a mosaic planter from Amazon introduces exactly enough pattern without overwhelming the space.

I’ve found restraint almost always produces a more convincing result than attempting to recreate an entire riad in suburban Ohio. Tile collections from Lowe’s offer practical porcelain alternatives inspired by traditional Moroccan geometry.

Embrace A Palette Inspired By Earth And Sun

The colors should feel edible. Think cinnamon, saffron, toasted almond, pomegranate, ochre, faded clay, olive, deep indigo, and dusty rose.

One reason Moroccan gardens remain so memorable is because the buildings rarely compete with the planting. Instead, every color seems borrowed from the surrounding landscape.

I often encourage people to imagine their courtyard at sunset rather than at noon. If the palette feels harmonious in golden evening light, you’ve probably succeeded.

Natural stone, weathered timber, antique brass, and handmade ceramics all develop character as they age. That’s infinitely preferable to synthetic materials trying very hard to look rustic while quietly fading after two summers.

Layering these earthy tones also creates a wonderfully forgiving design. Leaves, fallen petals, and weather simply become part of the composition rather than something requiring immediate tidying.

What to Shop

Fill The Air With Fragrance

A beautiful courtyard should first announce itself with perfume. Before visitors notice the colors or furniture, they should catch a whisper of scented foliage carried on warm air.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the obvious starting point, but it shouldn’t work alone. Pair it with rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus), star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), scented geraniums (Pelargonium species), and sweet bay (Laurus nobilis).

These plants are wonderfully evocative of Mediterranean and North African landscapes while remaining perfectly practical across many temperate regions and USDA Zones 7 to 10.

I grow rosemary wherever I possibly can because brushing past it never fails to improve my mood. Gardening should occasionally be measured by happiness rather than horticultural precision.

Young bay trees from Fast Growing Trees or fragrant lavender from Nature Hills make elegant long-term container specimens that only improve with age.

Use Shade As A Design Feature

The finest courtyards are never entirely sunny. Instead, they orchestrate sunlight, allowing it to dance across walls, weave through foliage, and create constantly shifting shadows throughout the day.

A simple pergola from Amazon, timber screen from Lowes, stretched sail cloth from Amazon, or climbing vine transforms an exposed courtyard into somewhere people actually want to spend time during summer afternoons.

This is where climbing plants earn their keep. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) offers glossy evergreen foliage and heavenly fragrance, while grape vines (Vitis vinifera) create dappled shade that feels wonderfully romantic without becoming heavy.

I’ve always believed gardens should occasionally make you forget what time it is. Filtered shade has exactly that effect. Layering shade also protects containers from drying out so rapidly, making the entire courtyard easier to maintain through hotter summers.

Choose Furniture That Invites Long Conversations

Some outdoor furniture seems designed for people intending to leave within ten minutes. Moroccan-inspired spaces celebrate precisely the opposite.

Deep seating, oversized cushions, woven poufs, low coffee tables, and generous rugs encourage guests to remain long after the coffee has disappeared. Outdoor living should feel slightly decadent.

I always think you’ve succeeded when somebody says, “I’ll just sit down for a minute,” and is still there an hour later. Natural teak, woven rattan, iron, leather details, and linen fabrics age beautifully together.

An outdoor rug from IKEA, patterned cushions from Anthropologie, or a handwoven pouf from Amazon instantly soften hard paving while making the courtyard feel like another room of the house rather than simply somewhere with furniture placed outside.

Plant For Texture Rather Than Constant Flowers

Many people assume Moroccan gardens overflow with blooms. In reality, texture often performs the starring role. Architectural foliage provides year-round presence while flowers appear almost as unexpected celebrations.

Combine olive (Olea europaea) trees, dwarf pomegranate (Punica granatum), Italian cypress (Cupressus sempervirens), and ornamental grasses such as Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima). Even in cooler temperate climates where olives require winter protection, they perform magnificently in containers.

Silver foliage from curry plant (Helichrysum italicum) from Plant Addicts, lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina) from Plant Addicts, and artemisia (Artemisia ‘Garden Ghost’) from Plant Addicts, reflects evening light beautifully while reinforcing the soft, dusty color palette.

The overall effect feels lush without becoming crowded, allowing every plant room to express its own character.

Finish With Fire, Water, And Gentle Light

Lanterns throw intricate shadows across walls. Candles flicker beneath olive branches. A small bubbling fountain masks traffic noise and attracts birds while cooling the surrounding air.

I have always been astonished by how much difference moving water makes in a confined space. It changes not only the sound but the perceived temperature of an entire courtyard.

You don’t need an elaborate installation. A simple recirculating fountain, ceramic water bowl, or decorative rain chain from Amazon paired with warm LED lanterns from Amazon transforms an ordinary evening into something quietly extraordinary.

Avoid harsh white security lighting. Instead, layer multiple small sources at different heights. Light should reveal rather than expose.

Like every successful garden, the best Moroccan-inspired courtyard doesn’t rely on a checklist of objects. It succeeds because every material, fragrance, texture, and sound works together to slow the pace of life ever so slightly.

That, perhaps, is the greatest lesson these spaces offer. They remind us that gardens are not simply places to admire from the kitchen window. They are places to inhabit. To eat slowly. To read one more chapter. To watch shadows lengthen across warm plaster while rosemary perfumes the evening air and lanterns begin their nightly performance.

A courtyard designed with that philosophy never feels fashionable. It simply feels timeless.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Knowing which plants to propagate in July gives you the tools to get more of your favorites to add them to your garden. Taking cuttings is an enjoyable and cost-effective way to get new plants, and there are perennials, shrubs, and herbs on the hit list for the month.

July is a time when plants are growing strongly. There is a lot of plant material to pick from this month, and cuttings you take will quickly develop roots and shoots. The young plants that develop will need caring over winter, before being planted out next spring.

This guide looks at some of the best plants to propagate in July. With just a few tools and materials, plus a little patience, you can take plant cuttings this month and get a range of plants to add to your flower beds, borders, or containers.

An essential pruning tool is a sharp pair of pruning shears or pruning snips. These Felco pruning snips, available at Amazon, have long, straight steel blades perfect for cuttings.

Verbena

This popular cottage garden plant is an absolute winner for bringing pops of pinky-purple flowers into borders or containers.

There are around 200 different verbena varieties to grow, and perennial types are ideal for summer cuttings. You can grow verbena from seed you collect, but cuttings offer a quick, simple way to get exact clones of your favorite verbena specimens.

To take verbena cuttings in summer, pick healthy, non-flowering stems and prepare them into 4-6-inch lengths, making cuts just above a node. Remove the lower stems, leaving just a few at the top, and dip the base of the cuttings in rooting hormone – such as this hormone rooting powder at Walmart.

These cuttings can then be put either in a pot filled with compost or into a glass of water. After around 4-6 weeks, they should develop healthy roots.

At this time, pot them up into individual pots and protect them over winter in a greenhouse, cold frame, or on a bright windowsill.

Rosemary

This aromatic herb is always a popular addition to herb gardens and containers. As a staple in cooking and a great plant for pollinators thanks to its flowers, it is understandable why any gardener may fancy a few extra rosemary plants in the yard.

As it is really simple to propagate rosemary from cuttings in summer, this is easily done.

Look for flexible, green tips of stems when picking cutting material, and avoid going into the woody stems. Take 4-6 inch cuttings, remove the leaves from the lower two-thirds, and shave away the outer layer of tissue on the bottom inch with a sharp knife (like this grafting and pruning knife at Amazon).

After dipping in rooting hormone, place three to five cuttings around the edge of a small pot filled with well-draining compost. Keep the cuttings moist, but not waterlogged, and roots should form within a month.

Rosemary is hardy in zones 8-11. This makes it beneficial for gardeners in colder climates to take summer cuttings just in case their existing plants don’t make it through winter.

Lavender

Lavender remains one of those universally popular plants, thanks to its glorious fragrance, silver foliage, and purple blooms. The versatile herb can be at home either in flower beds or containers, or be used to line the edges of borders and paths.

Whether you grow lavender to pick for cooking, baking, skincare, or for medicinal purposes, summer is a prime time for propagating lavender while it is actively growing. You can collect and plant lavender seeds to get new clumps, but taking cuttings is quicker and guaranteed to give you a pure clone of the parent plant.

Pick healthy, non-flowering stems that have grown this year and are 3-6 inches long. Remove the lower leaves, dip the bottom in rooting hormone, and place the cuttings in pots filled with compost.

Cover the container with a clear bag or plastic lid and place it in a bright location, out of direct sunlight.

You can get nursery pots with humidity domes on Amazon that are ideal for starting cuttings off in.

The cuttings should root in 3-4 weeks. Then the cuttings can be potted up, and you can plant the lavender into the garden next spring.

Hydrangea

Hydrangeas brighten a summer garden with their large summer flower heads. And summer offers the chance to add to the show in future years by propagating your favorite hydrangeas.

You can take cuttings of most hydrangea varieties in July, including popular smooth, panicle, and mophead hydrangeas.

The best materials for propagating hydrangeas in July are healthy, flexible, non-flowering shoots that have grown this year. Any cuttings should be 4-6 inches long and have the lowest leaves removed. It is advisable to cut the remaining leaves in half, which helps to limit water loss.

Place the cuttings in pots filled with well-draining potting mix (you can have three or four around the edges of one pot) and cover with a clear plastic bag. This provides vital humidity and stops them drying out. Alternatively, you can place them in a propagator for the same effect.

Your new hydrangeas should root in a few weeks. Each cutting can be potted up and then planted out come spring. Pot each one into a container filled with a well-draining potting soil, like this organic potting soil from Burpee.

Penstemon

Penstemons are among the easiest perennials to grow in flower beds or containers, with their flower spikes coming in a range of colors. These blooms are long-lasting and popular with bees and other pollinators.

Taking cuttings in summer gives you lots more plants to attract bees each season. Plus, as many penstemons can struggle in cold winters, cuttings offer a nice insurance policy, especially for gardeners in colder climates.

Penstemon cuttings should be 3-5 inches long and snipped just below a leaf node. Remove the lower leaves and leave just a couple of pairs at the top. Place cuttings around the edge of a pot filled with well-draining compost and keep the soil moist, but not overly wet.

Once the individual cuttings are potted up, overwinter them somewhere frost-free before planting them out in the spring once the risk of frost has passed.

If you keep deadheading penstemon whilst in bloom, you can enjoy flowers well into fall each year. You don’t need expensive tools for this; for example, these Fiskars pruning shears at Walmart won’t break the bank and are perfect for deadheading.

Salvia

There are many great reasons to grow salvias and to want to have more in your garden. The perennials have standout long-lasting flower spikes, fragrant foliage, are drought-tolerant, low-maintenance, and adored by pollinators. It’s quite an impressive list of accolades.

Gardeners can pick between many types of salvias, with tubular blooms in shades of purple, blue, red, pink, or white. If you have a favorite salvia, taking cuttings is the perfect way to get an exact clone. The risk with collecting seeds is that salvias are known to cross-pollinate.

If you don’t mind a gamble, collecting and sowing seeds is rewarding. However, if you prefer guarantees, either propagate salvias from cuttings in summer or divide salvias while they are dormant.

You can root salvia cuttings in soil or water. Pick healthy, non-flowering stems 4-6 inches in length and remove the lower leaves. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone and then place the cuttings in a pot filled with soil, or a container of water.

Bee Balm

If you really want to boost the amount of pollinators that visit your garden, add more bee balm plants. This is a perennial with nectar-rich blooms that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds in droves.

If you have a Monarda variety in your garden, or you know someone who has one, July is the perfect time to take cuttings and add more of these pollinator magnets to your beds.

You don’t even needs lots of space to grow bee balm. It can thrive in pots in a small container garden even make a balcony smell nice and become a haven for insects.

Take your bee balm cuttings in the morning, as the stems will be full of moisture and not dry out the second you snip them from the plant. Snip 4-6 inch lengths of non-flowering stems, cutting below a node. Remove the lower leaves, place them in a pot, and cover them with a plastic bag or humidity dome.

The cuttings will need potting up and keeping in a greenhouse, cold frame, or indoors over winter to plant out come spring. This portable wooden greenhouse at Wayfair is suitable for housing cuttings and overwintering plants.

What to Shop

If you have got the itch to transform your garden, there is also the opportunity to sow lots of seeds in July. It includes annuals for speedy flowers, vegetables you will harvest come winter, and also perennials to provide blooms for years to come. Our guide to what to plant in July reveals a whole host of ornamental and edible plants that you can start from seed this month.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Mowing is one of those classic summer jobs. However, taking the lawn mower out in a heatwave can actually damage your grass. So when is it too hot to mow? When the temperatures hit 90°F, lawn care experts warn homeowners not to cut their grass, as doing so places extreme stress on the lawn. Mowing when the temperatures reach dangerous levels can lead to heat stress, brown patches, or even kill the grass.

It is important to resist any urge to mow when temperatures reach such critical levels. You don't want to put lots of effort into lawn care over the rest of the year, only to undo all the hard work with risky mowing in summer.

You can get an all-weather iron outdoor thermometer from The Home Depot. Homeowners can stake this in a lawn and see when it is too hot to mow. Along with monitoring local weather patterns, a thermometer offers an easy way to make sensible judgements on cutting grass in hot weather.

What Temperature Is Too Hot to Mow the Lawn

When the temperatures spike during the summer, it reaches a point where it is too hot to mow, and you’d only be doing more harm than good by heading out with the mower. That critical point is when the temperature dials hit 90°F (32°C).

Taylor Olberding, the co-owner of Heroes Lawn Care, warns homeowners: ‘Do not mow your lawn if you are experiencing a huge heatwave. Once that thermometer goes above 90 degrees‚ you really need just to leave your mower in the garage․’

That advice is reiterated by Roger May from TruGreen, who says that temperatures of 90 and above ‘add stress to already compromised turf’. He tells gardeners to steer clear of mowing at such dangerous times if they want to protect their lawn in a heatwave.

‘Avoid mid-day mowing when temperatures are in the 90s, as this is when heat stress is most intense,’ the lawn expert advises. ‘The best approach is to mow during cooler parts of the day and avoid mowing during the hottest portion of the day.’

Steering clear of mowing during the scorching parts of the day and adjusting how often you mow the lawn in summer benefits both you and your grass.

Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America advises mowing in the early evening during a heatwave. She says: 'Evening mowing means your grass can recover in the coolest temperatures of the day.’

‘A good rule of thumb is that if it’s too hot for you to mow the lawn, it’s too hot for your lawn to be mowed,’ adds Theresa.

How Mowing in a Heatwave Damages Lawns

When temperatures reach the levels where it becomes too hot to mow a lawn, blindly heading out with a lawn mower puts additional stress on already-stressed grass. As any growth slows in extreme temperatures, it is advisable to wait until it resumes.

‘It may be tempting to head out there and get the chores out of the way‚ but you are doing way more harm than good because your grass is already completely stressed out from the heat,’ warns Taylor.

‘If you start pushing the mower across a water-starved lawn‚ the wheels and the cutting blades will literally squash the wilted blades‚ and they won't bounce back․’

He adds: ‘Every time you mow‚ you're leaving an open wound that allows the moisture to evaporate․ Your yard may end up looking like a patchwork of dead brown spots that will take forever to heal․’

If that doesn’t sound bad enough, Theresa warns: ‘Mowing during the heat of the day, especially in a heatwave, shocks the roots and makes it vulnerable to disease, which can ultimately leave you with unsightly brown spots or even kill your grass.’

The advice is clear. Cutting when it is too hot to mow a lawn will leave you with a stressed, patchy lawn.

A lawn can recover from summer heat stress once the temperatures cool and it gets some much-needed moisture. However, homeowners who heap extra stress on the grass by mowing in a heatwave may not see their lawn bounce back so quickly.

Longer Grass Is Better in a Heatwave

There may be homeowners who shudder at the prospect of not mowing for long periods during the summer. Those who love their perfectly manicured summer lawns won’t like the idea of leaving the grass taller.

But the reality is that longer grass is highly beneficial during a heatwave, as it keeps essential moisture in the soil for longer.

‘Longer grass blades can help shade the soil, meaning moisture doesn’t get evaporated from the ground as quickly in the direct sun,’ explains Chrissie Handley from Online Turf. ‘The shorter the grass, the more moisture it will likely lose, as the soil is more exposed to the sun for evaporation.’

Keeping the grass longer, which includes raising the mowing height if you do opt to cut during the cooler parts of the day, provides a valuable barrier between the precious grass roots and the harmful sun’s rays.

‘The taller the grass‚ the more shade it provides the ground under it‚ saving your roots from the heat,’ adds Taylor.

Longer grass and stronger roots make any grass more tolerant to drought. On the other hand, shorter grass means less moisture in the soil and parched roots. This makes any turf more susceptible to heat stress, weed pressure, pests, and diseases.

What to Shop

Knowing the dos and don’ts of caring for a lawn in the summer months helps your grass stay healthy and looking good, rather than ending up stressed or brown. Our guide to summer lawn care has six important tasks you should be doing at this time of year to keep your grass in good shape.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Meet the Experts

From a young age we quickly learn to steer clear of stinging nettles, but you shouldn't be put off by their harmful foliage – stinging nettles actually bring lots of benefits to the garden.

Whether you use them to make nettle leaf tea or nettle tea fertilizer for your tomatoes, stinging nettles (botanically known as Urtica dioica) are packed with nutrients for plants and people, and even support garden wildlife in a few different ways.

Here, we talk through three reasons why you should leave stinging nettles in your garden. You can even purchase stinging nettle seeds from Amazon if you haven't already got them growing.

1. Make Nettle Tea

The first reason to leave stinging nettles in your garden is because you can actually harvest it to make your own herbal tea.

Nettle leaf tea is made by steeping dried nettle leaves in water for 10-20 minutes. It has an earthy flavor and anti-inflammatory properties as a medicinal plant. It's even thought to support skin health.

You can actually purchase nettle leaf teabags from Walmart and dried nettle leaves from Amazon to make your own.

If you are harvesting stinging nettle leaves from your garden, look for the young, tender leaves that haven't been treated with pesticides. You should wear gloves to protect your skin (like these thorn-proof gardening gloves from Amazon), and pick the leaves with your fingers. Or, you can use these Fiskars micro snips from Amazon.

2. Make an Organic Fertilizer

It's true that you can make plant fertilizer using weeds, as many are packed with essential plant nutrients. When it comes to stinging nettles, they're a great source of nitrogen.

What nitrogen does for plants is encourage vegetative, foliage growth. You find it as the first plant fertilizer number on the NPK label on fertilizer products.

Nettle tea fertilizer is made the same as nettle tea, by steeping the leaves. Though, it should be left to steep for 2-4 weeks before using in the garden for effective results.

It creates an organic plant fertilizer to give your crops a boost ahead of flower production, ideal for fertilizing tomatoes, for example.

3. Leave Them for Wildlife

While it can be easy to think stinging nettles are weeds to get rid of, they're actually invaluable to wildlife.

In particular, they're a vital food source for butterfly and moth caterpillars. They also provide shelter for a wide range of beneficial insects, including lacewings and hoverflies.

The likes of aphids are also attracted to stinging nettles, which in turn encourages their predators like ladybugs, aiding natural pest control in your yard.

They also help feed garden birds who forage for the insects found on stinging nettles.

Leaving a wild patch of stinging nettles can therefore help boost the biodiversity in your yard.

What to Shop

While stinging nettles are weeds to consider leaving in your yard, there are also many invasive weeds to watch out for. If you do need to get rid of any weeds, there are several methods you can try. One of the most effective is using a weed pulling tool (like this from Amazon) to pull up the roots and stop it growing back.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for the Homes & Gardens newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

For decades, cool whites have been the go-to for house exteriors. Long considered a safe option for curb appeal, they deliver a fresh, crisp look, provide a neutral foil to different materials, and can sit with a range of architectural styles. However, in recent years, homeowners and designers have been moving away from this stark tone toward colors derived from nature, which have an enduring softness and feel inherently grounding.

Rooted in landscape, tones such as sage greens, warm stone, earthy plaster, and terracotta, through to deeper brown-tinted botanical greens, are all on the rise as we all seek to create homes that sit seamlessly within their surroundings rather than impose on them.

So why are these nature-merged colors finding favor, and what are the timeless tones designers and homeowners are turning to in 2026? To help guide your exterior paint ideas, we consulted the color experts to get their insights and tips on creating homes that settle into their surroundings rather than stand out.

What's the Draw of Nature-Merged Exterior Colors?

While white paint will always have its place in exteriors, working particularly well on more contemporary buildings, homeowners and designers alike are increasingly turning to softer shades that take their cues from the landscape. From muted blues and greens to warm neutrals and richer earth tones like Tuscan-style plaster and terracotta, all are on the rise as designers seek to create homes that endure rather than jar.

‘There's a clear shift in homeowner preferences toward nature-inspired exteriors because they feel calmer, more rooted, and more livable than the stark whites and high-contrast schemes that dominated the last decade,’ says Kayla Kratz, Sr. director of color and design strategy at Behr. ‘After years of white-colored farmhouses and icy gray facades, homeowners are craving softer, earthier palettes: slate blues, olive and sage greens, terracottas, and browns that visually reconnect the house to the landscape.’

1. They Sit Harmoniously in Their Surroundings

Unlike stark white, which can jar with the landscape, these earth-derived tones have complexity and nuance that mimic nature itself, giving them an inherent softness that makes them easier on the eye than flat white and gray. Tuned to their surroundings, these tones have a more enduring appeal than high-contrast schemes.

'While white can be a beautiful finish, white has become the default for an 'updated' home. Bright whites often feel contemporary and generic, fighting against a home’s surrounding landscaping,' adds Sophia deDomenico, principal designer at Et Sal Interiors. 'The best planned homes seamlessly incorporate their architecture amidst their natural horticulture, enhancing the scene as a pillar of the backdrop.'

‘There's a real cultural shift happening away from homes that stand apart from their surroundings and toward ones that belong to them,’ adds Chris Landis, co-founder of Landis Architects. ‘Colors drawn from the natural world tend to feel timeless for a simple reason: they're already familiar to us. Earth, stone, clay, moss, water: we've lived alongside these tones forever. They don't compete for attention. They settle in.’

2. They Promote Well-being

Visually, nature-merged tones create a gentler, more timeless appearance, but it’s not just how these tones look that homeowners find appealing; it’s also how they make us feel. In a world in fast-paced flux, the home is increasingly becoming a place of sanctuary and calm, with many homeowners turning to biophilic design as an antidote.

Natural materials such as wood, stone, and clay are on the rise, bringing with them a sense of grounding comfort in a changing world, and so too are the colors of nature. Imbued with restorative powers and believed to promote well-being, comforting, natural palettes are already popular for those seeking serenity inside, and now they're extending to exteriors, too.

Kayla Kratz at Behr explains how this tonal shift is all part of ‘a broader cultural move toward wellness. Colors drawn from nature read as restorative, offering a gentler look than the high-contrast schemes they're replacing. Sage, olive, mossy greens, and blue-greens signal calm and stability, while clay and terracotta tones add a sense of warmth.'

3. They Look Better for Longer

On a practical level, nature-merged exterior paint colors are easier to maintain than stark whites, which aren’t as safe as many might assume. ‘White became the default for two reasons: the rise of minimalist modern design, and the convenience of a color that feels clean, passive, and broadly marketable. It worked well enough. But white is unforgiving. It flattens architectural detail, creates glare, and shows dirt and weathering faster than almost anything else,’ explains Chris Landis.

Michael Winn, owner and president of WINN Design + Build agrees, adding, 'A stark white exterior is the highest-maintenance color you can pick, especially in our climate. Pollen, algae, mildew, the grime of a humid Mid-Atlantic summer: white shows all of it, fast.’

Natural tones tend to age more gracefully, disguising the wear of age. Choose tones with depth and a range of undertones, as these will best settle into the landscape. ‘Almost nothing in the natural world is a single pure tone. The colors that age best on exteriors are the ones with that kind of complexity,' says Michael Winn. 'My advice: avoid anything that feels too clean or one-dimensional. If you love blue, find one with some gray or green in it. If you love white, find one softened by cream or warm stone. Colors that have layered undertones respond beautifully to changing light and seasons, and they tend to feel personal rather than default.'

4. They Work Well in Tonal Palettes

If you’re looking to create a nature-merged exterior, the colors you choose are important, but for a really nuanced and subtle effect, avoid a single color and think in terms of a layered, tonal palette.

‘What I find interesting is the move toward monochromatic facades: trim, siding, and architectural details all in the same or closely related tones, rather than defaulting to bright white contrast. It lets shadow, texture, and depth do the work. The house reads as more considered and more connected to its own materials,’ explains Chris Landis.

In this project by WINN Design + Build, the designer chose a clever tonal palette of three earthy greens to help the multifaceted building gently ease into its setting. ‘Don’t think about chasing the one color of the moment. It’s choosing the green, stone, or blue that actually belongs to your site and your fixed materials. The color trend worth following is the principle underneath it – let the setting lead – not any single shade,’ says Michael Winn.

Which Nature-Merged Colors are on the Rise?

If you are looking for exact color inspiration for painting the exterior of your home, these are the timeless shades designers suggest.

Soft Sage Greens

Synonymous with nature and gentle and easy on the eye, yet still light and uplifting, sage green paints remain a popular option for exteriors.

‘They offer a subtler approach to color but aren’t too neutral or gray,’ explains Arianna Barone, color marketing manager at Benjamin Moore. ‘Louisburg Green HC-113 is a favorite from our Historical Color Collection. I love to use this collection for exteriors, as most of the colors are recommended for exterior use. Louisburg Green HC-113 is a midtone hue, so it has good depth and won’t wash out on homes that receive a lot of natural sunlight.'

'When choosing exterior colors, you always want to go a few shades darker than you may think you want. The natural light will cause the color to cast lighter.’

If you're cautious with color, there's no need to go too strong on walls; using soft greens and limiting deeper greens to trim is a wonderful way to create a layered look.

'This is a nearly 200-year-old Gothic Revival home in Germantown, New York, so we wanted the exterior palette to feel authentic to both the architecture and the setting. Rather than relying on a single accent color, we selected a family of greens from Benjamin Moore – Kennebunkport Green, Avon Green, and Cushing Green – to create depth and subtly highlight the decorative trim, windows, and period detailing,' explains Louise Copeland, L.B. Copeland Interior Design. 'The greens relate beautifully to the surrounding landscape, but they also felt especially fitting given the home's history as the former residence of a naturalist and horticulturist.'

Gentle Whites

White is enduringly popular for home exteriors, but many designers prefer warm white paints for a softer, nature-merged home exterior.

'Stark whites can feel harsh outdoors. They reflect light in a way that can be almost blinding, and they tend to create too much contrast with accent colors and surrounding materials. I usually prefer whites with more depth —they feel softer and bring out the architecture instead of competing with it,' explains Aileen Warren of Jackson Warren Interiors. 'I still love a white exterior, but I’m drawn to warmer, muddier whites over crisp ones.'

For her own cottage, Aileen Warren chose Sherwin-Williams' warm Panda White.

Greige Tones

Neither too cool nor too warm, greige paint continues to be a popular color for timeless, grounded homes both inside and out, and remains a bestseller with many paint companies.

At Sherwin-Williams, ‘shades like Agreeable Gray SW 7029, Alabaster SW 7008, and Accessible Beige SW 7036 remain popular because they complement a wide range of architectural styles and exterior materials,' explains Emily Kantz. 'Homeowners continue to gravitate toward these nature-inspired neutrals that offer both curb appeal and flexibility.'

For interior designer Caroline Kopp, Benjamin Moore's Revere Pewter is a go-to for exteriors. 'When choosing a neutral paint, I am always looking for something very neutral – meaning not yellow, not peach, not lavender. I want it right there as neutral as can be,' says Caroline Kopp. 'There are only a few beiges like this, and Revere Pewter is one of them. Here, we wanted something that felt soft and natural, so we paired it with White Dove on the trim, which creates a very inviting and warm experience on the façade of this house.'

'Stonington Gray HC-170 and Edgecomb Gray HC-173 are popular hues,' adds Arianna Barone at Benjamin Moore. 'These are a great canvas for a bolder front door or a higher contrasting shutter or trim color. Through accents, you can easily bring in more nature-inspired hues to these colors.'

Warm Stone-Colored Neutrals

Warm earth tones with ochre and red-earth undertones, including clays, stone, and terracotta, instantly create a warm, inviting feel and have a softness that helps them settle easily into the landscape. 'Bringing in warmer tones, trim contrast or natural elements can help create a look that feels more inviting and easier to live with day to day,' says Ashley McCollum, color marketing manager at Glidden.

'Warm, bold colors are having a moment. People want their homes to feel grounded, comfortable, and a little more like them, not just ready for resale. We are seeing less playing it safe and more leaning into color that actually brings some personality.'

Tinted plaster and stucco are wonderful finishes to embrace this warm exterior look. 'In the Tucson area, we’re getting more requests for colors that reflect the desert landscape, such as warm stone, adobe-inspired browns, and muted greens that echo native vegetation,' explains Ralph Peralta, owner and president of Sunset Coatings Stucco & Paint. 'This is something I strongly encourage, as in our area in particular, it’s always better to complement nature rather than stand out in stark contrast to it.'

For this beautiful European Chateau-style home, BVA BarnesVanze Architects chose a tinted plaster finish for an authentic historic look. 'Tinted plaster has a depth of color and artisanal hand-finished quality reminiscent of the old world,' explains Ellen Hatton, principal at BVA BarnesVanze Architects in Washington, DC.

Weathered Gray-Blues

Tones that reflect the blue grays of the sea and skies are a timeless option for nature-merged exteriors, particularly in coastal areas. Prevalent in nature and hugely versatile, they pair beautifully with whites, grays, greens and the warm tones of wood and stone.

‘Boothbay Gray HC-165 is a great option from the Historical Color Collection. Slightly cooler toned, this blue-gray works beautifully on many different styles of home,’ says Arianna Barone at Benjamin Moore.

Lisbeth Parada, marketing manager at Dutch Boy Paints suggests ‘a weathered blue exterior, such as Neptune’s Rings 431-3DB with Cotton Wood 412-1DB trim and a Gravity 435-7DB accent front door color, brings in color in a calm, livable way.’ Alternatively, try a soft gray-blue palette, such as Zippered Gray 435-3DB with Antiquated Lace 017W trim and Mariana Blue 334-7DB accents, which offers a fresh neutral alternative.’

Earthy Olive Greens

Moving to the darker end of the spectrum, mid-greens with earthy undertones, such as olive greens and leafy botanical greens, work wonderfully on properties in woodland settings, blending seamlessly with lush evergreen foliage. For a nature-merged exterior that really settles into this landscape, try layering a range of tonal greens as done here by Phillip Thomas.

'We always take our cues from nature. In this case, that means weathered cedar, trimmed in greens and nestled among the trees, making the home look as if it has always been part of the landscape,' explains Phillip Thomas.

'We incorporated multiple shades of green on the trim, using the darkest color, Benjamin Moore's Backwoods CC-630, on the face of the trim while painting the underside of the trim in High Park CC-620. The porch was painted the lightest of the greens - Tea Light CC-610. The shades only have a subtle difference in saturation, but they really play with the natural light that filters through the treetops, creating beautiful visual texture.'

Dark Green-Grays

Dark colors with nuanced undertones are also proving popular with those looking to make a statement without creating too much of a contrast. 'A charcoal tone, or even a deep charcoal with some subtle green undertones, is really taking off these days,' explains Leigh Spicher, national director of design studios for Ashton Woods Homes. 'Darker exteriors make the home feel a little bit mysterious, but also warm and even a little bit cavernous in the best way. Some of my favorites right now for dark exteriors are Sherwin-Williams Iron Ore, Urbane Bronze, Sealskin, and Peppercorn.'

These dark colors can beautifully set off leafy tones, adds Leigh. 'I think these darker homes look absolutely beautiful with all of the biophilic design that's on the rise, like natural trees, canopies, flowers, and beautiful landscaping. Beyond paint colors, we're also adding textures like brick, shake, board and batten, or stone. We’re seeing these materials in natural colors like reds, charcoals, tans, and browns.'

Tips on How to Choose Nature-Merged Exterior Paint Colors

When planning a nature-merged exterior palette, take care to examine the property’s materials and setting, advise the experts. ‘The best place for homeowners to start is by looking at the parts of the house that already have a voice. The roof, brick, stone, pathways, and mature landscaping set the foundation for the entire exterior palette. When the paint color is chosen in conversation with those elements, the whole exterior reads as more intentional,’ explains Emily Kantz.

The key to success all comes down to undertones and selecting colors which subtly complement the architecture and surroundings. ‘Undertones are where that conversation really comes to life. A warm brick with notes of terracotta, tan, or brown calls for a different color than cool slate, blue-gray stone, or charcoal roofing. The goal isn't to match everything perfectly. It's about choosing a shade that makes the existing materials look their best,’ explains Arianna Barone. ‘Get that relationship right, and the color feels timeless and deeply connected to the character of the home.’

Avoid choosing just one flat color. Often, opting for a tonal palette comprising several shades of the same tone is a great way to create a timeless, nature-inspired home exterior. ‘A strong exterior usually includes a body color, a trim color and an accent color for the front door, shutters, garage door or architectural details. This helps the home feel layered and intentional,’ explains Lisbeth Parada.

Whatever palette you go for, whether it’s a deep layered botanical palette or an array of gentle, pale mushroom neutrals, it’s always vital to test colors. Start with what you’re not changing – the roof, any stone or brick, the window frames, the hardscape. The exterior color that ages well is almost always the one in conversation with those materials rather than fighting them.

'Paint a four-by-four-foot patch on at least two sides and look at it at 8 a.m., noon, and dusk – north and south light do completely different things to the same color,’ says Michael Winn. ‘And remember, paint is one of the few decisions you can undo, so it’s where I tell clients to spend their courage. Be conservative on the permanent, expensive things; take your risks here.’

As homeowners and designers seek homes that sit in harmony with nature, we're seeing a shift away from stark whites, cool grays, and high-contrast schemes toward gentler, nature-merged colors. Instead of single on-trend tones, homeowners are turning to layered, tonal palettes of nuanced tones rooted in nature to create timeless exteriors that nestle seamlessly into their surroundings. Muted earthy greens are proving particularly popular, alongside brown-tinted neutrals, clay and sand tones through to dark brown-toned greens and charcoals.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

As the heat dome continues to blast through the US, many are battling the constant struggle to keep plants hydrated and healthy. But the real trick to having a thriving garden in the midst of a heatwave is choosing drought-tolerant, heat-loving plants that won't wilt as soon as the sun hits.

Enter, eryngium. Also known as sea holly, this blue (or white) thistle-like plant is my go-to for a fuss-free summer perennial. Perfect for growing in containers (especially compact varieties like these eryngium 'Blue Hobbit' seeds on Amazon), it's a gorgeous plant to have on your patio to keep your hosting space looking bright and lively even in scorching temperatures.

The best part is, it really doesn't need much attention – sea holly doesn't need pruning until much later in the year, nor does it demand fertilizer. Not to mention, I find bees and butterflies buzzing around my eryngium all summer long. Here, I explain more about why it's my top pick of a drought-tolerant perennial to grow on your patio in a heatwave.

Suited to Drought

Eryngium is found in a few varying habitats across Europe, the Mediterranean, Asia, and the Americas. It grows everywhere from grasslands to rocky slopes, and even coastal dunes, all of which have little rainfall and well-draining soil.

Once established, they're super drought-tolerant. This is thanks to their deep taproot accessing moisture deeper in the ground. Even in containers, they can cope with drier conditions better than other plants, making them much less susceptible to heat stress.

In fact, excessively wet soil is likely to cause root rot and the collapse of sea holly, so it thrives in the well-draining environment of containers.

They likewise thrive in full sun, ideally needing 6-8 hours of direct sun daily. The more sun exposure, the more vibrant their iconic blue or silvery white is. Plus, they thrive in poor soil types, including sandy soil, so fertilizer isn't necessary to get a big cluster of thistles.

A 50:50 mix of this well-draining Miracle Gro potting mix from Walmart and this horticultural grit from Amazon will work perfectly for eryngium.

So, for a sun-soaked patio in a heatwave, eryngium will reliably keep your space looking fresh and bright, without much effort.

Loves Growing in Pots

As mentioned, eryngium is suited to container garden growing because it loves well-draining soil and doesn't mind when nutrients deplete.

A planter with a drainage hole is essential, and because sea holly has a deep taproot, it's best to choose a planter at least 12" deep. This large white planter from Wayfair would work well.

Position your eryngium pot in a full sun corner. At a minimum, it will need 4-5 hours of sun exposure, so it can adapt to partial shade.

You should water regularly when you first plant your eryngium, but it will need less watering once established in following years. You can use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to check when the whole pot has dried out before watering again.

And once winter comes around, it's best to move your container to a sheltered spot. I like to wrap mine with burlap (like this from Amazon) to protect these plants from frost.

Best Eryngium Varieties to Try

There are so many different types of eryngium, but some are better suited to container growing if you're planning to position it on your patio.

I have a 'Blue Hobbit' eryngium, pictured above (you can find seeds on Amazon). It's a compact variety that produces multiple clusters of blooms in summer. It reaches just 12-20" in height, ideal for pots.

If you have larger containers to fill and you want something architectural, eryngium 'Big Blue' is a good option (and it's available at Plant Addicts). It produces tall 24-36" flower spikes.

For something a little bit different, opt for eryngium 'White Glitter' (you can find seeds available at Walmart), which has silver-white blooms. It also reaches a height of 24-36" tall. Full sun will bring out a shimmer to its bracts, hence its name.

A US native eryngium for pots is the white 'Rattlesnake Master' (you can find seeds on Amazon). It's another tall variety, reaching up to 48-60", so it definitely makes a statement piece and requires a large planter. It has much more compact bracts than other types of sea holly, giving the flowerheads a more spherical silhouette

What to Shop

If you want to boost your yard's resilience to extreme weather even more, consider adding more native plants for a drought-tolerant pollinator garden to your yard.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

A dorm room is usually blank, with empty white walls, devoid of any personality, and lacking in storage and organization. That's why, while at college, I relied on clever, damage-free hooks to string up my fairy lights, display pictures, and add all-important hanging space, without risking my deposit.

Once I graduated and moved out of my final college room, I thought I was done with Command Hooks, available at Amazon. As I soon found out, though, they aren't just for students.

Even now, four years later, I still swear by them for decorating and organizing my home.

In a dorm room with next to no storage, using vertical storage to save space is not a choice – it’s a necessity. And, from hanging towels to organizing keys and coats, Command Hooks are still just as handy around my home now as they were back at college.

Admittedly, I'm far from a professional when it comes to DIY projects, which is exactly why I love them − simply stick the hooks to the wall and remove them damage-free whenever necessary, without the need for any power tools for either installation or removal.

They immediately improve wall storage ideas (essential for small dorm rooms), and allow me to move items around as I need to, without having to follow-up with hole filler and paint.

Plus, I can hang items above wall sockets and switches, without the usual stress that comes with drilling into a wall and navigating electrical.

How to Use Command Hooks Correctly

The key to using hooks for increased storage is to apply and remove the Command Hooks properly − you can't rush the process. To hang artwork without damaging walls and expand your home storage ideas, these Command tips are a must:

• Clean the wall first: Any small hair or dust can prevent proper adhesion. A slightly damp microfiber cloth, available from Walmart, is all you need for this.
• Use the correct strength strip: Always check the weight of the item you're hanging first. If you do not have suitably sized kitchen scales, from Walmart, for this, I have found that using bathroom scales (also from Walmart) and weighing myself, then weighing myself holding the object, and working out the difference, is a good guide. Opting for a strip designed for a bigger weight is always a safe option if you are unsure.
• Ensure the tab is pointing down: I cannot stress this step enough, as it is the reason I had to fix cracks in plaster walls in my second year. The small tab on a Command hook is how you remove it, and it needs to be pointing downwards, not sideways, to ensure damage-free removal later down the line.
• Allow the strip to stick before hanging anything: In a rush to decorate or organize a space, I have been guilty of sticking the strip on the wall and hanging the item up right away. However, this can cause the strip to peel away. Instead, let the strip sit on the wall for 24 hours before hanging anything with it to allow it to properly adhere.
• Remove slowly with two hands: The ‘damage-free’ part of command strips comes down to the removal technique. To remove a strip from a wall without damage, place one finger at the top of the strip, applying firm pressure, as you pinch and pull the bottom tab downwards, not away from the wall. This stretches the sticky backing for safe removal. Only once it is fully stretched out, remove your top finger for the strip to come away completely.

What to Shop

There are so many variations of Command strips, each of which can hold items of different weights and sizes. Below, you can shop from a selection to meet a wide range of different needs and preferences, along with organizational and cleaning essentials to make using them seamlessly simple.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Moving to college soon? Check out the organizing lessons I learned from a small dorm room to help set you up for a clutter-free study hub.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

My home increasingly looks like an indoor jungle and I love it. Though, I'm the first to admit I've made my fair few houseplant mistakes along the way, including overwatering. This causes a lot of problems for plants, including discoloring foliage and – perhaps the most annoying – the tiny black flies known as fungus gnats.

Common indoor plant mistakes like incorrect watering often attract fungus gnats because it creates a damp and moldy environment for them to thrive in. The worst part? These little bugs multiply quickly and will take up residence in every indoor plant you have if you don't act fast (I find these yellow sticky fly traps from Amazon work every time for catching them.)

This happened to me when a houseplant gnat infestation got a little out of control, so I began researching how to get rid of gnats in plants. Ever since, I've made some adjustments to my indoor plant care regime and they're now looking the best they ever have – my indoor garden has been free of gnats ever since. So, to help you conquer these tiny pests, I've compiled my top tips to keep them away.

1. Always Use Houseplant Potting Mix

It all starts in the soil, as not every soil type will be right for every plant. For example, growing orchids, require a very light potting mix that allows for proper drainage and for aerial roots to have good airflow. This orchid potting bark from Walmart is a top choice.

So, what is the best potting soil for indoor plants? It really does depend on the specific requirements of your plant, however you should always use a well-draining potting mix for potted plants so that excess moisture doesn't become trapped in the container and cause houseplant root rot.

This is where I made my first error. In the excitement of adding new plants to my home, I used quite a dense potting soil that wasn't quite right for each of my plants – especially those that don't like soggy soil, like calatheas.

This incorrect potting mix not only creates a damp environment for fungus gnats to thrive, but it also causes foliage to turn yellow and curl.

The first thing I did in an attempt to rid my plants of gnats is change out the soil, rinsing roots down before repotting them to get rid of any fungus larvae that may be lurking below soil level.

I then sought out well-draining houseplant soil, like this indoor potting mix from Amazon, to ensure my plants wouldn't be sitting in oversaturated soil and excess water good drain easily.

'You can also amend your soil with chunky amendments like perlite (like this from Amazon) or pumice to optimize drainage,' notes Vladan Nikolic from Mr. Houseplant.

2. Maintain Good Airflow

It's a no-brainer that having good air circulation will prevent a damp environment and stop a build-up of fungus and mold in your houseplant soil – things that will attract fungus gnats and other common houseplant pests.

While it's true that placing houseplants close together can beneficially increase humidity for indoor plants, I also take care to ensure my plants have good air circulation by giving them space and regularly opening windows.

'Proper room ventilation is another good preventive measure against gnats. It’ll bring down excess humidity and help the soil dry faster, reducing gnat numbers as a result,' notes Julia Omelchenko, botany expert for the Plantum app.

'Aside from regularly opening your windows, you can also run a fan on low speeds where your plants are situated. Avoid cold drafts and don’t point the fan at the plants,' she adds.

You might want to invest in a fan like this tower fan from Walmart, although it's also worth researching how much it costs to run a fan 24/7 and adjust how long you have your fan on accordingly.

Ensuring there is good air circulation around my houseplants has also helped to keep larger plants, like my monstera, looking brighter, as my houseplants capture less dust.

3. Allow Houseplant Soil to Dry

The root of all gnat problems is dampness and incorrect moisture levels in soil, so I learned very quickly that you need to give your plants time to dry out in order to effectively get rid of a houseplant gnat infestation.

This may sound concerning if you have particularly thirsty houseplants that don't like to sit in dry soil, however allowing a period of dryness to clean up your gnat problem will leave your plants happier in the long term.

'The first and easiest remedy for a gnat infestation is to allow the soil to dry out. Hold off watering until at least the top half of the soil has dried. Let the soil dry completely if you have succulents,' says Vladan.

'Fungus gnats dislike dry soil, and they can’t survive in dry conditions. To help your plants absorb water faster and speed up soil drying, give your plants more light,' he adds.

I also opt for terracotta indoor planters and pots with drainage holes for my indoor plants, which aids drainage and speeds up the drying out process. These terracotta pots from Amazon are a good example.

Get Rid of Fungus Gnats for Good

4. Ditch a Watering Schedule

Not only do you need to allow your soil to dry out to get rid of a houseplant gnat infestation, but it's also important to improve your watering regime going forward to avoid creating a damp environment again.

Knowing when to water plants is something that took me a little while to master, and every novice houseplant owner will have to tackle the hurdle of becoming familiar with the watering requirements of new plants.

The rule of thumb is to always check your soil before watering your houseplants, as there is no set frequency for every plant.

'The watering frequency depends on plant species and environmental factors, but you should always let at least the top inch of the soil dry out,' notes Vladan.

'Optimal watering is important not only to ensure good plant health but to prevent fungus gnat infestations as well. Water each plant according to its requirements, allowing the topsoil to dry off between watering,' says Julia.

'Check the soil moisture level with your finger or a wooden stick,' she adds.

Before I experienced gnat infestation, I tried establishing a watering schedule – often once a week for most of my plants. Now, I never water my houseplants without a moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter from Amazon.) It allows you to check how much of the soil has dried in your plant pot, ensuring you don't over or underwater again.

5. Use Sticky Fly Traps

Amending the moisture levels in your soil isn't enough to get rid of adult fungus gnats that are already flying around. Instead, they need to be captured to stop them lay any more eggs in your houseplants' soil.

These sticky fly traps from Amazon helped me to rid my indoor garden of gnats quickly. They're simple to use, as you just place them in your plant pot and it will capture flying gnats.

'Since gnats are attracted to yellow color, they fly towards the sticky traps and get stuck,' explains Vladan.

Depending on how severe your infestation is, you may find you need to swap out your sticky fly traps with new ones a few times. Just take care to not get them stuck to the foliage of your plants, as it could rip leaves and cause damage.

These traps will also help with other pests and can be used outdoors, too. Going forward, it can be a good idea to pop these fly traps in plants as soon as you spot gnats to prevent an infestation developing.

Shop Our Houseplant Edit

FAQs

How Long Does It Take to Get Rid of a Gnat Infestation?

Fungus gnats have a lifespan of one to two weeks, so it is recommend to persistently tackle a gnat infestation for up to two months to get rid of the problem entirely. This means not only capturing the adult gnats that are flying around, but also tackling the larvae and eggs in the soil that are yet to hatch. Maintain an uninhabitable environment in your plant's soil for a few weeks at a time and you should see your gnat problem disappear.

Can I Use Insecticides to Get Rid of Gnats?

Yes, you can use insecticides to get rid of gnats. However, be aware that some of these products contain chemicals that many are hesitant to release into their plant's soil. Some products that experts recommend include neem oil spray, like this neem oil from Amazon, and mosquito bits, like these mosquito bits from Amazon.

'Mosquito bits are pellets made of corn cob. They contain the bacteria Bacillus Thurigiensis israelensis (BTI), which is effective against fungus gnats,' notes Vladan Nikolic from Mr. Houseplant.

'Put Mosquito bits in water that you use to water your plants. Mix 4 tablespoons of mosquito bits per half a gallon of water. Leave them in for about 30 minutes so BTI can separate from corn cobs and be released into the water. Gnat larvae will eat BTI and die,' he adds.

We recommend always researching insecticides before use and following manufacturer instructions.

After around six weeks of consistently tackling my gnat infestation, there wasn't a gnat to be seen. I have since continued to provide my houseplants with this optimal care and they look healthier than ever.

If you're struggling to tackle a gnat infestation, try one of these DIY gnat traps to help eliminate them from your home. Alternatively, you can try the hack to get rid of fungus gnats using a potato.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

July has a reputation for being the month when gardeners wilt faster than their plants, but it is still an excellent time to establish many drought-tolerant perennials. Choose the right species, water them carefully while they settle in, and they will reward you with years of color, texture, and resilience while demanding remarkably little once established.

Planting in midsummer does require a slightly different approach. Timing, soil preparation, and consistent watering during the first few weeks make all the difference, particularly across the warmer parts of the US in USDA Zones 6 to 10.

If you are planning a resilient border, these drought-tolerant planting schemes demonstrate just how beautiful low-water gardening can be without sacrificing abundance or drama.

1. Russian Sage (Salvia yangii)

If there were ever a plant that looked as though it positively enjoyed hardship, Russian sage would be somewhere near the top of the list. Silvery stems carry airy lavender-blue flowers that seem to shimmer in afternoon sunshine, creating movement long after many summer perennials have begun to tire.

Despite the common name, it is no longer classified as Perovskia atriplicifolia, having been reassigned to Salvia yangii. Thankfully, its easy-going nature remains unchanged.

Once established, it thrives in lean, sharply drained soils and positively resents overwatering. In fact, I have seen it perform far better in neglected municipal plantings than in lovingly fussed-over borders.

Give it full sun and avoid rich soil, which produces floppy growth instead of the elegant haze for which it is treasured. Young Russian sage plants available from Nature Hills, establish remarkably quickly when planted into warm summer soil.

Its silver foliage also combines beautifully with ornamental grasses if you are creating one of the increasingly popular naturalistic prairie minimalism plantings.

2. Sea Holly (Eryngium giganteum)

Sea holly looks more like an exotic sea creature than a flowering perennial, with metallic blue flower heads surrounded by dramatic spiny bracts. It is one of those plants visitors inevitably ask about, usually while wondering whether it might stab them.

It flourishes in hot, exposed positions where many supposedly glamorous perennials quietly give up. Once established, it develops a deep taproot that allows it to tolerate lengthy dry spells with remarkable ease.

Plant it somewhere permanent because mature specimens dislike being moved. Fortunately, they rarely need any encouragement after settling in.

Pairing sea holly, available from Plant Addicts, with ornamental grasses creates the sort of dry garden that feels entirely at home across the western US, particularly in Mediterranean or temperate climates.

3. Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii)

Lavender is great, we all love it. Catmint probably suffers most from its popularity. But like an eager understudy waiting in the wings, this is it's time to shine.

Soft gray foliage releases a pleasant fragrance whenever brushed, while clouds of violet-blue flowers continue for months with minimal intervention.

One reason I return to catmint repeatedly is its astonishing generosity. Give it a quick haircut after its first flush of bloom and it often flowers all over again, particularly in cooler temperate regions. It also attracts bees in astonishing numbers without requiring endless watering.

Whether edging a pathway or softening the front of a sunny border, it earns its place every single year. Giant catmint is available from Plant Addicts for gardens that need more hight in their borders or in gardens trying to adopt a cottage garden style.

4. Blanket Flower (Gaillardia aristata)

Blanket flower possesses the optimism of someone wearing bright colors during a heatwave. Fiery reds, oranges, and yellows continue flowering through blazing temperatures while many neighboring plants begin contemplating retirement.

Native to North America, it is naturally adapted to dry, open conditions and poor soils, making it an obvious choice for gardeners seeking resilient beauty.

I particularly appreciate its honesty. It never pretends to be delicate or refined. Instead, it flowers enthusiastically, attracts pollinators, and asks for remarkably little in return.

Deadheading extends the display considerably, although even neglected plants continue blooming surprisingly well throughout summer. If your soil drains freely and receives uninterrupted sunshine, blanket flower from Nature Hills will likely become one of your most reliable July plantings.

5. Globe Thistle (Echinops ritro)

Every border benefits from contrast, and globe thistle provides it in abundance. Perfect steel-blue spheres hover above architectural foliage, introducing bold geometry into softer perennial plantings. Florists adore them fresh or dried, while pollinators descend upon them with spectacular enthusiasm.

Despite its dramatic appearance, globe thistle is wonderfully uncomplicated. Hot weather scarcely troubles it once roots are established, and deer generally leave it well alone.

I often recommend it for gardeners who believe drought-tolerant planting must somehow appear sparse or minimalist. Globe thistle from Plant Addicts proves precisely the opposite.

Allow sufficient spacing when planting in July because mature clumps become surprisingly substantial after only a couple of seasons.

6. Lavender Cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus)

Not every perennial earns its place through flowers alone. Lavender cotton offers finely divided silver foliage that forms neat evergreen mounds, bringing structure throughout the year before producing cheerful yellow button flowers in summer.

Its Mediterranean origins explain its remarkable drought tolerance. Warm sunshine, sharply drained soil, and a certain degree of neglect suit it perfectly. I have always admired plants that improve by being left largely alone, and lavender cotton from Plant Addicts certainly falls into that category.

Trim lightly after flowering to maintain its rounded form, but otherwise resist the temptation to overcare for it. It also makes an excellent companion for gravel gardens, dry slopes, and sunny pathways where irrigation is limited.

7. Beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)

To finish, a perennial that quietly deserves far greater recognition. Beardtongue sends elegant white, purple or pink flower spikes above glossy green foliage in late spring and early summer before continuing to provide handsome structure long afterward.

Native across much of eastern North America, it copes impressively with periods of drought once established, particularly in well-drained soils.

What I admire most is its adaptability. It looks equally comfortable in formal borders, cottage gardens, wildlife plantings, or contemporary landscapes.

Hummingbirds adore the tubular blooms, while the sturdy seedheads continue providing interest well into fall if left standing. Beardtongue from Nature Hills establish readily during July, provided they receive regular deep watering for the first month.

What to Shop

The phrase drought tolerant sometimes creates unrealistic expectations. No perennial, however resilient, enjoys being planted into baking soil and immediately abandoned to its fate.

For the first four to six weeks after planting, monitor soil moisture carefully. Water deeply whenever the soil begins drying several inches below the surface, then replenish mulch to reduce evaporation and suppress weeds.

After that initial establishment period, these seven perennials begin demonstrating why they have earned such loyal followings. Their roots travel deeper, their watering needs diminish dramatically, and they continue providing flowers, foliage, texture, and wildlife value through some of the hottest weather of the gardening year.

There is enormous satisfaction in creating a border that remains beautiful while demanding less from both the gardener and increasingly precious water supplies. In my experience, those are often the gardens that continue looking their best when summer is at its most unforgiving and, perhaps not coincidentally, when everyone else is busy dragging hoses around the yard.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

To maintain the lush, green lawn of your dreams is challenging during a heatwave. When the soil is dry in the summer, any moisture there is can struggle to soak into the ground. That is where a lawn wetting agent makes a huge difference.

Never heard of one? Wetting agents actively help water to penetrate deep down into the lawn, hydrating the roots and helping the grass get the moisture it needs to survive hot, dry summers. It means any rainfall or irrigation stays available to the lawn, and reduces how much you need to water when you do turn on your sprinklers.

Professionals swear by lawn wetting agents, and homeowners should use them as part of their annual lawn care regime, as they can offer short-term summer relief or long-term proactive benefits. Let’s look at how they work and when you should use them on your lawn to get the most benefit. (This lawn wetting agent, available at Amazon, comes with a sprayer that connects to your garden hose to apply it across the lawn.)

What Does a Lawn Wetting Agent Do?

Lawn wetting agents, also known as soil surfactants, are chemical compounds that help water to penetrate the grass and spread evenly throughout the ground. The product reduces the surface tension of the water, helping it infiltrate and spread through the lawn.

Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith, explains how water can often ‘just run off the soil’ when the ground is parched and hard during a hot, dry summer. But altering that surface tension makes a huge difference in helping moisture penetrate the turf.

‘By disrupting the water’s surface tension, a wetting agent immediately allows it to filter down through the soil, right to the roots where it’s most needed,’ he says.

‘A perfect example of water’s surface tension at play is the old party trick where you balance a coin on top of a glass of water. And when you put a drop of washing up liquid in the water, the surface tension has broken, and the coin immediately sinks.’

When moisture penetrates deeper into the soil, it reaches the root zone, where your grass needs it most. The water won’t run off or sit on the lawn only to be lost to evaporation, which is crucial during hot summers.

Plus, it helps you reduce water waste in your yard. A lawn wetting agent doesn’t replace any need to water a lawn, but it cuts down how much water you need to apply.

‘If grass has entered a dormant state, recovery can be patchy; some areas remain brown while others return to a vibrant green. A wetting agent can revive the whole lawn,’ Jonathan said.

‘So whether it’s a dry lawn that needs reviving, or one that needs protection, a wetting agent is worth every penny.’

When and How to Use a Lawn Wetting Agent

For the best results, it pays to plan your usage of a lawn wetting agent carefully. Whether you want to cover an entire lawn or use it to treat stubborn dry, brown patches in the grass, Jonathan has one key tip for using the product.

‘To get the best out of your product, apply it to your turf before watering or rainfall,’ he says, as this ensures the product is active and working before any moisture hits the lawn, whether courtesy of natural rainfall or gardeners watering their grass.

‘If just treating specific dry areas, spread it further than the initial patch to ensure thorough coverage,’ adds Jonathan.

Fast-acting liquid lawn wetting agents can provide immediate relief, usually less than 30 minutes. These products are perfect for immediate results and can be applied before any summer rainfall or irrigation.

For a longer-term plan to avoid dry summer lawns, Neil Stubley, Wimbledon’s head of courts and horticulture, advises applying a lawn wetting agent earlier in the season.

He told The Guardian newspaper: ‘I’d recommend using a wetting agent to prepare your lawn for dry, summer conditions, supporting its hydration ahead of warmer weather.’

Granular lawn wetting agents can be applied to release their compounds slowly over an extended period. These are usually applied with a lawn spreader over larger areas – like this push broadcast spreader at The Home Depot. They take longer to activate, but their benefits can be felt for longer, up to six months.

Such products can be used as part of a spring lawn care regime. This ensures the wetting agent is established in the soil to protect your lawn in a heatwave.

Shop the Best Wetting Agent for Lawns

One thing to avoid is watering the lawn at night. It may be convenient to set the sprinklers going overnight, but it creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases to thrive. The best time to water a garden is in the morning. If you can’t do it then, early evening is OK as the grass has time to dry before nightfall.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Lavender is one of the most drought-tolerant plants you can grow, but even this Mediterranean favorite can benefit from the right watering routine during prolonged hot spells. The trick is knowing when to step in – and when to leave it alone. Too much water is far more likely to damage lavender than too little, especially during summer.

Whether you're growing lavender in borders, gravel gardens or containers, understanding how to water it correctly will help keep plants healthy, fragrant and covered in flowers. While established lavender rarely needs frequent irrigation, heatwaves and extended periods of drought can sometimes call for a different approach.

To find out exactly how often to water lavender in summer, we asked gardening experts to explain how to water plants in hot weather, the warning signs of overwatering, and the simple techniques that will help your lavender thrive through the hottest weather. (And to get started, this is our favorite metal watering can, available from Wayfair, which doubles as a stylish patio feature.)

How Often To Water Lavender in the Ground

Lavender is a drought tolerant plant that hails from the Mediterranean, an area where there is a lot of heat and the soil is poor. It is a plant that does not need much watering and overwatering is a common lavender growing mistake. Water it too much and it can cause root rot, which can seriously damage plants.

The first thing to recommend using if you're not sure how much water to give your lavender is a moisture meter. A great example is this long probe moisture meter, available from Amazon. It can quickly and easily give instant results, and is ideal for deeper pots or for use out in the yard.

Hillary Alger, Flower Product Manager at Johnny’s Selected Seeds, describes lavender as a ‘low-water needs plant’ that is particular about its needs. She says: ‘Plants need ample water, but containers and soil should be well drained. Lavender doesn’t like to have roots constantly drenched.’

Any newly planted lavender should be watered once or twice a week during its first summer.

When the lavender is established then its watering requirements drop. It makes lavender perfect for drought tolerant planting ideas, as it does not need regular watering when established.

It can tolerate dry periods and only really needs watering during extended periods of drought, for example, if there has been no rain for two weeks. In which case, water early in the morning.

In extreme summer heat when watering lots of plants, it helps to have a really good hose, such as the Flexzilla hose from Amazon. It's easy to store, and super lightweight.

How Often To Water Lavender in Pots

When growing lavender in pots, plants need watering more often than those growing in the ground, particularly during periods of hot, dry weather.

Containers dry out much faster, but it's still important to resist watering too frequently. Lavender prefers relatively dry conditions, and constantly damp compost is one of the quickest ways to weaken or kill the plant.

When watering plants in containers, check the compost before reaching for the watering can. Push a finger a couple of inches below the surface – while the top layer may appear dry, there can still be plenty of moisture around the roots.

Alternatively, use a digital moisture meter (available from Ace Hardware) to test the soil.

When it is time to water, soak the compost thoroughly until water begins to drain from the holes in the base of the pot. This deep watering encourages roots to grow down through the container, helping plants become more resilient during summer heat.

It's a good idea to place your pots on metal stands or pot feet, such as these ones from Walmart, to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging.

Allow the compost to dry out again before repeating the process. In the height of a heatwave this may mean watering every few days, whereas in cooler weather established potted lavender may only need a thorough soak every couple of weeks.

What to Shop

Lavender is a really low-maintenance aromatic herb that is perfect for any herb garden ideas.

However, it is possible to overwater it. Watering the plant too regularly, or failing to provide it with soil that drains very well, can both contribute to lavender becoming overwatered.

The signs that a lavender plant is being overwatered will include yellowing or browning leaves, drooping leaves and stems, mold on the surface of the sodden soil. Thankfully, it can recover well. Make sure any container has drainage holes in the bottom and you give lavender a very free-draining soil mix.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

With scorching summers becoming the norm, it's harder to justify giving precious garden space to thirsty plants that wilt as soon as the sun comes out. That's why I've been considering drought-tolerant alternatives to hydrangeas.

It's no secret that growing hydrangeas in summer is challenging. These cottage garden blooms require consistent moisture to stay bright and full, with the slightest bit of drought (and intense sunlight exposure) crisping up their flowers. But, the good news is there are drought-tolerant plants that will give you just as beautiful and colorful blooms in the midst of a heatwave without any fuss.

From bright bee balm that pollinators love, to showy spirea blooms, there are plenty of low-maintenance options to replace your hydrangeas. Even though they need much less water, it's still important to check their soil moisture regularly to keep them sufficiently hydrated (I like to use my soil moisture meter from Amazon). Here are our top seven picks.

1. Bee Balm

• USDA: zones 3-9
• Blooms: July-September

One of the things that makes hydrangeas most attractive in the garden are their bright and sometimes unusual colors. But, when under heat stress, their bright blues and pinks can fade and become paler, and hydrangeas can wilt.

That's why Rachel Bull, Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, suggests opting for bee balm instead:

'I'm growing bee balm for the first time this year and I'm delighted with how low-maintenance it's been,' she says. 'It's starting to put out bright blooms for summer and hasn't been demanding of water at all,' Rachel continues.

While not the most drought-tolerant perennial you can grow, bee balm does tolerate short dry spells and it thrives in direct sun.

Where hydrangeas need daily watering during hot spells, you can get away with watering bee balm every few days. In milder summer conditions, you can reduce watering frequency to once a week, when the top couple of inches of soil have dried out.

The best part about bee balm is that pollinators love it, especially bees (hence its name) and hummingbirds.

There's a bee balm color for every garden, with the likes of this Bubblegum Blast Bee Balm from Plant Addicts making a great alternative to bright pink hydrangeas.

2. Coneflower

• USDA: 3-9
• Blooms: July-September

One of the best places to look for drought-tolerant alternatives to hydrangeas is prairie planting and wildflower meadows, where bright blooms thrive in poor conditions.

Coneflower is one of the most recognizable perennials among these flowers. With pink daisy-like flowers, they're not a direct replacement for the showy blooms of hydrangeas but they do effortlessly slot into a cottage garden scheme.

Thanks to coneflower's deep root systems, these blooms can survive extended period of drought. Though, they will bloom most prolifically when provided consistent moisture.

It's a great addition to a drought-tolerant pollinator garden, with bees and butterflies frequenting them often.

Just like hydrangeas, when coneflowers come to the end of the season, the dried seedheads make beautiful, architectural silhouettes. You'll find this helps feed garden birds as fall arrives.

Walmart offer a three pack of coneflower plants for $40.97. You can also grow coneflowers with these Botanical Interests seeds.

3. California Lilac

• USDA: 8-10
• Blooms: May-July

If you're looking for a blue flower to replace blue hydrangeas and reduce the need to water in the garden, then I recommend California lilac, or ceanothus.

It's a flowering shrub for full sun and sandy, well-draining soil type. It's commonly found in California, as its name implies, thriving in hot conditions with little rainfall in summer.

Unlike hydrangeas, however, California lilac produces dense clusters of small flowers that enjoy 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.

What I love in particular about California lilac is the fact you can grow it as a shrub or a tree, so you can choose the right one for the space you have available.

You can use these California lilac seeds from Amazon to challenge yourself to growing it from scratch.

Shop Drought-Tolerant Plants

4. Yarrow

• USDA: 3-9
• Blooms: June-October

Yarrow, or achillea, is a beautiful US native wildflower with clusters of blooms that last through summer. They even make great cut flowers.

It's one of the most reliable drought-tolerant plants to have in your garden border. Plus, it's a pollinator magnet and resilient to rabbits and deer.

The one thing to note is that it's a herbaceous perennial and will dieback in winter, unlike some hydrangea foliage which is evergreen.

Nevertheless, there is a yarrow for every garden, as it comes in all colors of peach, white, yellow, pink, red, and more. Explore the full range of yarrow at Nature Hills.

To keep yarrow blooming right until fall, you can deadhead it with these Fiskars micro snips from Amazon.

5. Spirea

• USDA: 4-8
• Blooms: June-September

Spirea is another drought-tolerant alternative to hydrangeas to consider.

'There is a wide variety of spirea to choose from, with lots of colorful blooms from white to deep pink, and cultivars that offer glorious fall foliage,' describes Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'Spirea can handle periods of drought thanks to its tap roots, which allow it to find water deep down in the soil. They are adaptable, low-maintenance shrubs that can handle sun or part-shade, as well as poor soils,' he continues.

As seen among Plant Addicts' spirea collection, there are shrubs with blooms of all sorts of colors. They cluster flowerheads provide an impactful display, similar to hydrangeas but much easier to maintain.

'It is not just you who will love the blooms, they are also popular with bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds,' Drew adds.

Don't forget to prune spirea after blooming to tidy it up and get it in shape for an equally impressive returning display next year. These Felco F2 pruning shears from Amazon will make clean cuts to keep your shrub in top condition.

6. Rock Rose

• USDA: 6-9
• Blooms: May-July

Rock rose, or cistus, is a great alternative to hydrangeas because it forms a dense, rounded shrub with papery flowers. It also has silvery, dark green foliage to provide year-round structure.

Cistus varieties are best suited to coastal gardens, where they thrive in poor, sandy soils. It doesn't demand supplemental water to rain, and it thrives in sunny conditions.

Its flowers are reminiscent of roses, but the catch is each individual bloom lasts for just one day. Nevertheless, it will keep putting out flowers until mid-summer.

The main thing to watch out for with rock rose is overly wet soil in winter, which can kill off the shrub. You can improve your garden soil and its drainage to help with this, for example by aerating and putting down compost.

You can find a cistus shrub in all sorts of colors, from white and pink (like these rock rose seeds on Amazon), to purple-red.

7. Russian Sage

• USDA: 3-9
• Blooms: July-October

While it's not a direct substitute for hydrangea shrubs, Russian sage is a reliable, drought-tolerant plant you can be reassured will last through summer heatwaves.

With tall purple-blue flower spikes, Russian sage offers an airier look than the dense foliage of hydrangeas. However, it packs just as much in color with vibrant blooms that last for weeks on end.

Plus, it's hugely aromatic, with a classic sage fragrance and a hint of lavender. Though, it should be noted it isn't edible and its leaves and flowers are actually toxic.

Once established, it's incredibly low-maintenance, coping well with dry spells. Its appearance is reminiscent of lavender, though it tends to have much more silvery foliage which helps it reflect sunlight and conserve water.

It also doesn't require lots of attention, other than cutting back Russian sage in late winter or early spring to ensure a vigorous display in the next season.

This is also a great plant for pollinators, so you'll spot lots of bees and butterflies around it.

You can find a Russian sage plant at Plant Addicts.

What to Shop

As well as making strategic swaps to make your garden more resilient in extreme weather, there are plenty of things you can do to protect your plants in a heatwave. This includes moving potted plants to shade and installing an automatic irrigation system (like with this kit on Amazon) to ensure plants stay hydrated.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Call me a cynic, but I’ve never been convinced that a hot drink is the answer to surviving warm weather. When temperatures rise, I want something packed with ice to cool me down from the inside out, which usually leaves traditional coffee in fall and winter.

Iced coffee and chilled matcha lattes, however, are a different story. This summer, I think I’ve found the perfect upgrade to make the most of your best espresso machine in the Simpletaste 4-in-1 Milk Frother, which creates both warm and cold foam.

It’s the ideal finishing touch for refreshing summer drinks, adding café-style flourish while delivering on the caffeine boost you need to stay awake in the heat.

If you crave a truly café-like experience in the comfort of your own home, then topping your drinks (hot or cold) with milk foam is one of the simplest tricks. You do not need extensive barista training, just a well-brewed drink (be it from the best non-toxic coffee machine or made by hand, as with matcha), and a milk frother.

The Simpletaste 4-In-1 Milk Frother, from Amazon, is a class upgrade year-round. It is just as perfect for topping an iced matcha in summer as it is a pumpkin-spiced brew come fall. It's simple to use, too, with only one button. Tap once for warm dense foam, twice for warm airy foam, three times to heat milk, and four times for cold foam. The auto shut-off feature lets you know when your milk or froth is ready, preventing burning or over-frothing.

It is not limited to frothing and coffee, either. For hot chocolate and regular matcha, you can warm up to 240 ml (8.2 oz) of milk without frothing, adding to its versatility.

It's also far from a gimmick. Verified shoppers adore this simple frother, saying it works well with both dairy and non-dairy milks and praising its compact size, which makes it ideal for small kitchens.

As Sandy writes, 'We had a different frother before this one, and it worked fine, but for some reason the milk would burn in the bottom and was hard to clean. This frother works perfectly with no scorching. I use it to make chai lattes every morning. The froth is thick and lush. You can make it super thick or a bit thinner, and you can even do it cold. I'm so glad the other one broke, and we decided to try this one. If you're looking for a simple frother, you can't go wrong with this.'

Ana agrees, adding, 'It's foolproof and upgrades your morning coffee without spending crazy amounts at a fancy coffee shop. Heating is perfect on every setting, and the foam setting is great for a matcha latte or any latte, really. It's not bulky or takes a lot of space (huge deal if you live in NYC).'

What Else to Shop

If you are on a mission to make better coffee at home, then how your coffee station flows is key. I have rounded up a selection of my top coffee bar organization ideas to elevate your routine, from beautiful storage to chic iced drink glasses.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Our expert barista created a guide to making iced coffee from hot coffee to help you make it through the heat dome, too.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

If you've ever sent me a DM asking, 'Okay Molly, but what white paint color is THAT?' this article is for you.

I would venture to say it is the question I am asked more than any other. More than where I source antiques. More than what is my favorite stone. It's always the white. And for years, I've been… vague.

Partly because the answer isn't as simple as naming a paint color. But also because choosing the right white paint is one of the few design decisions that can completely transform a home – and one of the easiest to get wrong. So today, I am giving away the farm.

I've Tested Hundreds of White Paint Colors – These Are the Five Worth Using

If you look through nearly every project we've completed over the last several years, you'll start to notice a pattern. The cattle ranch in South Dakota. The storybook cottage in Maryland. Farmhouses throughout Oregon. Country houses in California… Even many of our new construction projects that were basically built yesterday but feel as though they've stood for generations.

They're white.

Or at least an MKS version of white.

Not builder white. Not stark gallery white. Not the kind of white that feels blue on a cloudy day and yellow by sunset. The whites I love are softer than that. They have dirt under their fingernails. They carry a little cream, a little earth, a little age. They feel more connected to nature than to a paint deck.

And while people often assume I choose white room ideas because they're 'safe,' the truth is almost the opposite. Decorating with white is one of the hardest schemes to get right.

One drop too cool and a room feels sterile. One drop too yellow and it starts feeling dated. One undertone can make beautiful oak floors look orange. Another can make limestone suddenly feel gray.

When I am choosing a white paint, I rarely think about the paint itself.

I'm thinking about the light. I'm thinking about the land. I'm thinking about every material surrounding it.

The same white that looks beautiful on a cloudy Oregon morning will look entirely different beneath the bright sun of Southern California. A white that feels perfect next to antique brick may fall flat against limestone. The white I choose for a heavily wooded property is rarely the same white I would choose for an open coastal site.

Before I ever pull a paint sample, I am studying what already exists. The color of the soil. The surrounding trees. The age of the architecture. The direction the house faces. The stone, plaster, wood, and metals we're using throughout the project.

The best white isn't chosen in isolation. It is chosen in relationship.

That's why I believe the most beautiful white homes feel as though they've always belonged exactly where they stand.

I often reflect on the buildings that have shaped my own understanding of beauty: English farmhouses, French country estates, coastal New England homes, weathered barns throughout the Pacific Northwest. Their power rarely comes from color. It comes from proportion, materiality, and light.

A white exterior captures morning light differently than afternoon light. It changes with the seasons. It highlights the shadow lines beneath a roof. It emphasizes the texture of stone and brick. It allows an old cedar tree or climbing rose to become part of the architecture itself.

White doesn't compete with a landscape. It participates in it. Inside, the same philosophy applies.

1. Benjamin Moore – White Dove

One of my most trusted colors is Benjamin Moore White Dove. If I had to choose only one white for the rest of my career, White Dove would be difficult to beat. It has a softness that feels warm without ever becoming creamy. It works with antiques. It works with contemporary architecture. It works with nearly every natural material I love. It simply behaves.

2. Benjamin Moore – Swiss Coffee

Swiss Coffee is another favorite, though for a different reason. There is something nostalgic about it. It feels familiar in the best possible way. In homes filled with old wood, linen, vintage rugs, and collected pieces, Swiss Coffee creates an immediate sense of comfort. It is the design equivalent of candlelight.

3. Benjamin Moore – Natural Cream

Natural Cream is soulful. Earthy, grounded, and quietly lived-in, it reminds me of old plaster walls in European homes – surfaces that have absorbed decades of light, life, and patina. There is a depth to it that feels impossible to manufacture. Antique woods appear richer against it. Limestone takes on a warmer cast. Linen feels more relaxed and effortless.

4. Farrow & Ball – School House White

Lately, I have found myself reaching for School House White by Farrow & Ball again and again. Of all the whites I use, this may be the one that feels most architectural. It is restrained, understated, and quietly confident. Every time I use it, I find myself appreciating it more six months later than I did on install day – which may be the greatest compliment I can give a paint color.

5. Farrow & Ball – Au Lait

The color I almost hesitate to tell you about because it has become one of my secret weapons. At our Willamette Valley project, we used Au Lait as the tint for Venetian plaster throughout much of the home. The result wasn't a paint color at all. It was atmosphere. The walls absorbed light instead of reflecting it. Morning light felt different than evening light. The surface shifted throughout the day in a way that was almost impossible to photograph.

Those are my favorite whites.

The ones you notice without knowing why. The ones that don't scream for attention. The ones that quietly make everything else in the room more beautiful.

Because ultimately, this is what I have learned after years of obsessing over white paint: the best white is never really about the white.

It is about what the white allows you to see.

The antique wood feels richer. The stone feels more textured. The linen feels softer. The architecture feels more intentional. The light becomes the star.

And perhaps that is why I continue returning to white, project after project. Not because it is safe.

But because 20 years from now, when countless trends have come and gone, I suspect these colors will still feel exactly as beautiful as they do today.

As a reminder:

• White Dove – the forever classic
• Swiss Coffee – the familiar, comforting white
• School House White – the architectural white
• Natural Cream – the soulful white
• Au Lait – the plaster white

Interior designer Molly Kidd is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, where she shares her thoughts on decor. See the rest of her articles here.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

As a brutal heat dome shatters temperature records across the Midwest, South, and East Coast, keeping our homes cool and comfortable has become a top priority. While blasting the AC is a standard go-to, certain houseplants offer a natural, budget-friendly way to help bring down indoor temperatures.

Plants achieve this through transpiration; a process where water travels up from the roots and evaporates through the leaves, acting like a built-in evaporative cooling system for your living space. Much like air-cleaning varieties, some houseplants are far more efficient at cooling their surroundings than others.

Here are five exceptional, air-cooling plants to bring into your home to beat the heat. And if you want to act fast with heat-beating indoor plants, this Aglaonema Wishes (or Chinese evergreen) from The Sill is a stunning place to start.

1. Snake Plant

It is no surprise that the snake plant tops the list. While famously celebrated for its air-purifying qualities and being the answer to better sleep, it is equally efficient at cooling down indoor spaces.

'The snake plant, known for its resilience and air purification abilities, releases oxygen at night and filters out toxins, making it a fantastic cooling bedroom plant,' explains Autumn Janus of Perfect Plants.

Because it does its heavy lifting at night, keeping one on your nightstand helps lower the ambient temperature right where you sleep. It is also an incredibly forgiving option for beginners.

'It is an easy indoor plant, requiring very little water, and grows well in medium light,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants. However, she warns to take care not to overwater, as excessive moisture will quickly cause the leaves to turn yellow and rot.

This impressive snake plant at Fast Growing Trees tolerates irregular watering.

2. Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is also a succulent that can help to cool down surrounding air; although experts note that this group of plants transpire in a different way to other plants.

'Because these are desert plants, they've adapted to be able to close their stomatas during the daytime to prevent moisture loss during the hottest part of the day. Instead, they absorb water and transpire at night,' says Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything.

'This is how they've adapted to living in the most intense desert conditions. Thus, while succulents are great at transpiration, you may not notice the effect during the daytime,' she adds.

As a result, aloe vera can be a great plant to have in your bedroom to help keep things cool during summer nights.

You can find aloe vera plants grown by Costa Farms at Amazon.

3. Boston Fern

Succulents and hardy statement plants are not your only options for beating the heat. Indoor ferns are exceptionally skilled at cooling down a room.

Specifically, the dense, feathery fronds of the Boston fern offer a massive surface area, allowing the plant to pump significant moisture into the air through transpiration.

'A good air-cooling plant when happy,' notes Julie Bawden-Davis. "However, this plant will struggle in low-humidity homes, which will cause leaflet drop."

Because it actively humidifies its surroundings to cool the air, a dry indoor environment can backfire on the plant itself, causing its vibrant fronds to turn crisp and brown. To keep it thriving, position your fern in a bright spot with indirect sunlight and keep its moisture levels up.

Give your fern a helping hand by regularly misting it to mimic its native tropical environment. You can pick up a stylish, fine-mist Glass Plant Mister on Amazon to boost the surrounding humidity.

You can find beautiful Boston fern plants at Walmart.

We are also obsessed with this foxtail fern from The Sill, which works in much the same way.

4. Peace Lily

If indoor flowering plants are your thing, then opting for a peace lily this summer can be a great way to keep your interiors cool. These beautiful plants have luscious foliage that can aid transpiration and evaporation.

You can find a Costa Farms peace lily available from Amazon.

'Featuring elegant white flowers and glossy green leaves, peace lilies not only enhance the aesthetics of a room but also acts as a natural humidifier, ultimately helping to cool the air and improve air quality,' says Autumn Janus.

These plants will flower for months at a time, but make sure to prune your peace lily after flowering to encourage returning blooms.

5. Chinese Evergreen

If you are looking for a striking foliage plant that pulls double duty as a room cooler, the Chinese evergreen is an exceptional choice. Famous for its patterned, variegated leaves, this plant is a powerhouse when it comes to improving indoor air quality and regulating ambient room temperatures.

The secret to its cooling success lies in its broad, large leaves. Because it has plenty of surface area to work with, the Chinese evergreen has a high transpiration rate, steadily releasing moisture back into hot, dry rooms to create a localized cooling effect.

Even better, it thrives in low-to-medium indirect light, meaning you can place it in warmer corners of the house that do not get direct sun.

Keep the soil evenly moist but well-drained during the peak summer months. If you notice the leaf tips beginning to turn brown, it is a sign that the ambient air is too dry, and a quick misting or placing it near a pebble tray will easily fix the issue.

You can add some lush, temperature-regulating color to your home office with a vibrant Chinese Evergreen from Bloomscape or explore this pink-leaf variety of aglaonema on Amazon.

What to Shop

FAQs

How Many Plants do I Need to Cool the Air?

There are many houseplants that can help keep the air in your home cool through the process of transpiration. However, it should be noted that you will need multiple plants for the effect to take place.

'You'd need to be living amongst a lot of plants for the effect of transpiration to be felt,' says Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything. 'Each small plant's transpiration only effects the immediate area around the plant,' she adds.

If you want to create an effective cooling system using houseplants, it's a good idea to create an indoor jungle with some of the most efficient air-cooling plants.

As extreme heat kicks in, you might want to consider turning to plants to help keep you cool. Team with some large leafed tropical plants, such as a kentia palm or a strelitzia, to create some natural shade in your home, too.

If you're looking for other ways houseplants can enhance our interior spaces, you find out how houseplants can reduce dust in your home in our guide.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There's a reason designers always return to wood in a kitchen. It's a timeless material that works in almost any scheme alongside any color. But mixing wood tones is a trick to master – one that proves difficult to get right.

But a kitchen is the one room that can handle mixed wood tones, and experts have a secret method to get it right every time. As wooden kitchen ideas continue to prove enduringly popular, there's never been a better time to learn the tricks of the trade.

Whether you're trying to add a secondary tone to a fully wooden scheme or want to bring more interest to your accent materials, here's the one trick designers say will help you to master the art of mixing wood tones in a kitchen.

Much like mixing metals, there's an art to combining different wood tones in a kitchen. Get it wrong, and your cooking space will feel like a mismatched scheme with a dated look, but get it right, and it will feel artful and beautifully layered.

And the secret to executing it well is simpler than you might think. When designers want to introduce more than one wood tone to a design, the first detail they look to is the undertone.

'Our number one rule is that we never try to match the woods. Matching everything is exactly what makes a kitchen feel flat, like a furniture set. The real key is undertone: every wood is warm, cool, or neutral, and as long as you keep them in the same undertone family, you can mix light and dark as freely as you want,' says Susan and Ryan Shand of Shand Design.

'The biggest key is paying attention to undertones. While we love mixing light and dark woods, we always try to keep the undertones consistent: warm woods with warm woods and cooler woods with cooler woods. That common thread allows multiple wood finishes to coexist naturally, rather than feeling accidental or disjointed,' agrees Kailee Blalock, Co-Founder of House of Hive Design Co.

It's similar to choosing complementary paint colors – if they share the same base tones, they will feel far more harmonious within your scheme, even if they are lighter or darker wood finishes.

But the process doesn't end at choosing two wood tones with the same undertone. How you introduce them is just as important for a balanced and tasteful kitchen scheme. And location is key.

'We pick one wood to lead, usually the floor, and let everything else play off it, then we make sure each tone repeats at least two or three times so it reads collected instead of accidental,' says Susan and Ryan.

Using kitchen flooring as the leading wood tone is popular as it's usually the largest surface area, but if you aren't choosing wood floors – tile and stone are just as coveted – you can look to other areas of the kitchen that are just as impactful.

'One of our favorite ways to mix wood tones is by treating the island like a freestanding furniture piece. Instead of matching the perimeter cabinetry, we’ll use a different wood tone or even an antique-inspired finish on the island. It gives the kitchen so much charm and creates a beautiful focal point,' says Kailee.

'We also love mixing wood cabinetry itself, pairing a darker wood around the perimeter with lighter wood on the uppers or pantry towers. It keeps the room feeling balanced and prevents everything from blending into one large block of cabinetry.'

Mixing wood tones in a kitchen is a timeless way to add contrast and interest, as long as you get the undertones right. Never match your wood tones exactly. Pairing light and dark always feels more balanced and intentional, especially when you choose a primary and secondary tone to introduce throughout the scheme.

And remember: always introduce each wood tone into a few areas of the kitchen so it feels truly intentional. 'We like to repeat each wood finish throughout the space, so nothing feels random,' Kailee adds. 'If you have a walnut kitchen island, for example, maybe that same tone shows up in your bar stools or lighting. It’s those repeated moments that make the design feel cohesive.'

3 Kitchens That Mix Wood Tones Tastefully

1. A Three-Tone Wooden Kitchen

If you prefer to follow the 60-30-10 rule, introducing a trio of wood tones with the same undertones can make for a truly timeless scheme. And this design is a perfect example of how to get it right.

'In our Hummingbird Sage kitchen in Montecito, everything is white oak, but it shows up three ways: rift-sawn on the cabinetry for a tight, tailored grain, a wide-plank European oak on the floors left looking raw and natural, and a deeper tone on the island to ground the room. Same warm family, three different characters,' says Susan and Ryan.

'The pale antique hutch echoes the floor, the warm cabinets echo the stools, the island holds the low note. The other half is breathing room: we never let two woods fight edge-to-edge. A rug, a stone countertop, a little brass in between gives each one space, and that's what makes the mix feel deliberate.'

2. A Green Kitchen with Wooden Floors and Countertops

Wooden kitchen countertops are another great way to introduce a new wood tone to your kitchen. In this design, wood countertops in a lighter finish add contrast to the slightly darker floorboards for a truly rustic feel.

'We like to introduce a second wood tone through a butcher block countertop. It brings an instant sense of character. We especially love using it on an island or in a dedicated prep area where it can become a focal point,' says Kailee.

'Beyond its charm, butcher block is also incredibly practical; it can be sanded and refinished over the years, allowing it to age gracefully rather than needing to be replaced. We love materials that get better with time, and butcher block is one of those rare finishes that develops personality.'

3. A Timeless Kitchen With a Contrasting Wood Floor and Island

You don't have to choose a fully wooden design to mix wood tones. In this kitchen, painted cabinetry fills the room, but the dark wood island and mid-tone wood floor bring a more organic layer to the scheme.

'Mixing warm wood tones is one of our go-to methods. Establish what you want to be your majority; typically, it will match your flooring,' says Sadie Beachy, Principal and Creative Designer of S. Flynn Design + Build.

If you do want to embrace wooden cabinetry, too, Sadie recommends keeping it cohesive with an existing element of the kitchen. 'We like making the perimeter cabinets color-match the floor, with the island in a deeper tone. Or you could do the opposite!'

Mixing wood tones in a kitchen creates a layered, visually interesting design – it's simply about understanding undertones and choosing the best place to introduce the different tones to nail your desired style.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Wisteria may be famous for its spectacular spring flowers, but July is the month when a little care can make all the difference to next year's display. As summer temperatures climb – with parts of the US experiencing intense heat dome conditions and prolonged heatwaves – gardeners need to pay closer attention to watering, pruning, and protecting plants from heat stress.

While established wisteria is a resilient climber, extreme heat can put even mature plants under pressure. The right approach to wisteria care in July will help keep growth healthy, prevent the plant from becoming unruly, and encourage a stronger flush of flowers next spring.

1. Give Wisteria Its Summer Prune

One of the most important jobs for wisteria in July is the summer prune. If you're wondering when to prune wisteria, midsummer is the ideal time to tackle the long, fast-growing shoots that appear after flowering. Left unchecked, these can become tangled and overgrown, directing the plant's energy into leafy growth rather than the short flowering spurs that produce next year's blooms.

Using clean, sharp secateurs, such as the Felco No. 2 Pruning Shears from Amazon, trim the new side shoots back to around five or six leaves from the main framework of the plant. This keeps the climber looking tidy, improves airflow, and helps sunlight reach the structure of the plant, while also encouraging more prolific flowering next spring.

Avoid cutting back the main woody branches unless necessary. Wisteria's permanent framework is the foundation for future flowering, so it is best to shape rather than drastically reduce the plant during summer.

2. Protect Wisteria During Extreme Heat

With heat domes and record-breaking summer temperatures affecting many parts of the US, keeping garden plants hydrated has become more important than ever. Although established wisteria is generally drought-tolerant, periods of extreme heat can cause stress, particularly for younger plants and those growing in containers.

When it comes to watering wisteria, the aim is to water deeply and thoroughly during dry spells rather than little and often, encouraging roots to grow deeper into the soil. If you're wondering how to water your garden in a heatwave, the same principle applies: water early in the morning or later in the evening when temperatures are cooler and evaporation is lower. A watering wand, such as the Gilmour Pro Power Jet Water Wand, makes it easier to deliver water directly to the base of climbing plants without wetting the foliage.

Container-grown wisteria may need watering more frequently because pots dry out quickly in hot weather. For larger gardens, a soaker hose, such as the DRAMM ColorStorm Premium Soaker Hose, provides a slow, consistent soak directly to the roots while minimizing water loss. Finish by adding a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool, leaving a small gap around the stem to prevent excess dampness and rot.

3. Train And Tie In New Growth

July is an ideal time to train and tie in wisteria's vigorous summer growth. If you're learning how to grow wisteria, training the plant while its new stems are still flexible is one of the best ways to create a strong, attractive framework. Direct shoots along pergolas, walls, fences, or trellis supports, encouraging even coverage as the plant matures.

Loosely secure new growth with soft plant ties, such as Velcro Brand Garden Ties from Amazon, leaving enough room for the stems to thicken without becoming constricted. Regularly training the plant throughout the summer will help maintain its shape, improve airflow, and reduce the need for heavier pruning later in the season.

If your wisteria is still becoming established, make sure it's growing against a sturdy support, such as a heavy-duty expanding willow or steel garden trellis, which will be strong enough to support the considerable weight of a mature plant.

4. Feed Carefully For Future Flowers

Wisteria usually does not require heavy feeding in July. If you're wondering when to fertilize wisteria, midsummer is a time to take a light-touch approach. Too much nitrogen can encourage an abundance of leaves and vigorous shoots while reducing flower production the following spring.

If your plant is growing in poor soil, choose a fertilizer that's lower in nitrogen and richer in potassium to support flower bud development rather than leafy growth. Espoma Organic Flower-Tone is a good all-purpose choice for flowering plants, providing a slow-release feed that encourages abundant blooms without excessive foliage.

For plants that need an extra potassium boost, Espoma Potash (0-0-60) can help improve plant vigor, drought tolerance and flower production, making it a useful option during periods of summer heat. Always follow the application instructions and water well after feeding.

Healthy, established wisteria growing in fertile soil often performs well without regular feeding, so avoid over-fertilizing. Instead, focus on annual pruning, deep watering during prolonged dry spells and growing your plant in a sunny position to encourage the best floral display.

5. Check For Signs Of Heat Stress

During periods of extreme summer weather, it's important to watch for heat stress in plants, including wisteria. Wilting, scorched leaf edges, curling foliage and premature yellowing can all be signs that your climber is struggling with excessive heat or inconsistent watering.

If your wisteria shows signs of stress during a heatwave, avoid heavy pruning until temperatures moderate, as this can place additional strain on the plant. Instead, focus on maintaining consistent soil moisture, protecting the roots with a layer of organic mulch and watering deeply when needed.

A mulch such as Scotts Color Advantage Mulch from The Home Depot helps insulate the soil and reduce moisture loss during prolonged hot spells. In contrast, a soil moisture meter, such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, takes the guesswork out of watering by indicating when the root zone is beginning to dry out.

With the right care, most established wisteria will recover well once temperatures cool, allowing the plant to continue storing energy for next spring's spectacular floral display.

The work you do on wisteria in July can have a direct impact on its performance next year. By controlling vigorous summer growth, encouraging the formation of flowering spurs and keeping the plant healthy through periods of hot weather, you’ll help create a stronger, more abundant spring display. With the right support and a little seasonal care, wisteria can remain one of the garden’s most spectacular features – even through challenging summers and periods of extreme heat.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Dorm rooms are almost always small, but the one area I never had enough space was undoubtedly my closet. Between a small hanging rail, if any, and a couple of shelves, keeping your clothes organized at college can feel far trickier away than it does at home.

But, without the ability to add any screws or fixtures, finding a solution can be even more difficult. This stackable closet storage basket set from Amazon, though, is easy to install, foldable, and costs just $36 for a pack of five.

It’s the perfect item to add to your dorm room checklist.

When living in a compact room, it's best to go vertical to maximize your storage space, and opt for smart, small storage ideas − just like the SNSLXH Stackable Closet Storage Baskets, available at Amazon.

With a cleverly stackable, space-saving design, they instantly add customizable storage and can conveniently be tucked away when not in use, ensuring they don't occupy any unnecessary space.

As they're constructed from high-grade plastic, they're also strong and durable, and they slide out completely like a drawer to make accessing items right at the very back easier than ever.

They're not just suitable for your closet space, either: Shoppers have also used them to avoid any open shelving mistakes, organize a linen closet, and to organize a laundry room.

'Great affordable solution for organizing empty shelving space,' says Shjen, alongside their five-star review. 'I bought these storage baskets to help organize a big open shelf above my washer and dryer. The space was always a bit of a mess, but I didn’t want to spend the money adding more shelving or doing a bigger project. These ended up being a really simple and practical solution.

'They were very easy to assemble, and the pieces just clip together. I had them stacked and ready to use in just a few minutes. Once put together, they feel sturdy and well-made, not flimsy at all. They really helped turn that open shelf into a much more organized space.

'The baskets also hold a surprising amount. I’ve been able to store folded shirts, sweatshirts, and even some bags in them. One basket easily fits several folded tees or a few thicker sweatshirts, so they’re great for laundry room storage.

'Overall, I’m very happy with them. They were an affordable way to organize a space that used to be wasted, and the shelf above my washer and dryer finally looks neat and functional.'

So, like any small dorm room storage essential, they're versatile, space-saving, and effortlessly simple to use.

What to Shop

For more small space storage solutions to transform your dorm room, shop from my handpicked selection of organizational essentials below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Now your storage is sorted, make sure you’re sleep is taken care of with one of the best dorm mattress toppers, and essential dorm cleaning tips to keep your space sanitized.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

There's a high chance that just as we're reaching peak outdoor entertaining season in July, our once beautifully blooming patio plants are starting to fade.

If we're not careful, the combination of intense heat and lack of water (not to mention busy schedules) can conspire to reduce a lush container garden to a sun scorched memory.

Even if your potted plants have survived the heat, some may require deadheading or filling out with some fresh flowers for a more finished look. We spoke to designers to find out some of the best high-impact patio plants to add in July for instant luxury. (A container upgrade always helps too, and this charcoal stone-effect pot from Amazon would add a timeless elegance to your patio.)

1. Cornus Kousa

A Japanese relative to the American Dogwood, this pretty, ornamental tree makes a statement situated by an outdoor seating area. Its bushy foliage and eye-catching bracts instantly make a space feel lush throughout the summer months and beyond. For this reason it's a favorite July addition for New York-based landscape designer, Jon Fargion.

'Cornus Kousa is a lovely medium small tree, with long lasting summer blooms,' says Jon. 'This tree blooms from mid June until the end of August, and then creates a series of beautiful, bright red berries. For extra impact in the summer, I like to set it in a container with some geraniums at the base.'

This Kousa Dogwood from Plant Addicts is cold hardy and will grow well in zones 5-8. It likes 6 hours of sunlight per day, well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil. If you're growing it in the ground be aware that it can grow 20-25' tall, so choose its location wisely. However, its growth would be contained in a large planter.

2. Acer (Japanese maple)

Who doesn't love a Japanese Maple? With their spectacular foliage and striking shapes, Acers are not only one of the best trees for a Japanese garden, they are a beautiful mid-summer "go-to" for landscapers when they want to instantly elevate an outdoor space.

'Japanese maple is another beautiful medium-sized tree,' says Jon. 'It has the most elegant structure and eye-catching foliage. Although, it's more suitable for a shaded area.

'These trees perform well in July because they are in their apex during summer either for bloom or for leaf development. I would plant a Japanese Maple with hakone grass or gallium odoratum at the base for an abundant container combo.'

This Waterfall Japanese Maple from Plant Addicts grows slowly and would make a beautiful patio plant in a decorative pot. It's suitable for zones 5-8 and can reach a mature height of 6-8' with a spread of 8-10'.

3. Gaura lindheimeri

Ornamental trees in pots add natural architectural elegance and vertical interest to an outdoor space. However, to create a feeling of abundance, flowering plants are a summer staple, especially when you replenish pots and planters with one as floriferous and exuberant as Gaura.

'Gaura lindheimeri is a gorgeous perennial, with long lasting summer blooms,' says Jon. 'It can be light pink or white, but whichever color, its elegant long stalks charged with flowers, look like a cloud of butterflies.

'It’s great for patio containers and flower beds – and needs plenty of direct sunlight.'

This Rosy Jane Gaura from Burpee is a bi-color beauty with both pink and white flowers. It would look spectacular as a container plant in this charming garden urn from Ace Hardware or bordering a patio and will bloom until fall.

4. Annual Geraniums (Pelargonium)

A reliable plant for vibrant summer color, Pelargoniums (also known as tender or annual Geraniums), are available in an array of hues to suit any number of garden design schemes. Often seen overflowing from pots, planters and hanging baskets, they're an impactful floral to display around outdoor seating and dining spaces.

'These tough annuals are readily available at garden centers and thrive in the intense July heat,' says Marci Bonner, Associate Landscape Architect ar Richardson & Associates.

'Pelargoniums bloom from spring to fall and can be added to a container garden in summer. Popular in the Mediterranean, these plants will survive with watering just once a week in summer.

'To keep them looking good, deadhead the spent blooms every one to two weeks.'

This Solera Red Geranium from Plant Addicts will provide an intense pop of color on your patio. It could even be styled as a living table decoration whilst it's relatively small.

5. Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)

Creeping Jenny is another tough yet beautiful plant that Marci likes to use to refresh summer containers. This mat-forming perennial looks particularly impactful when layered as a "spiller" with its verdant foliage cascading over planters, hanging baskets or tall garden urns.

'Creeping Jenny does not bloom but the color of its foliage is beautiful and varies depending on how much sun or shade it receives,' says Marci. 'It becomes more yellow in the sun and more chartreuse in shade.

'Although, it can survive the summer heat, this plant likes evenly moist soil and should not dry out. Keep in mind also, that Creeping Jenny is a vigorous perennial that can become invasive in open ground so confine it to containers.'

This aptly named Goldilocks Creeping Jenny from Burpee is easy to grow and will add beautiful cascading color to your containers. Plant it with colorful florals in a light-colored container like this pale gray terracotta pot from Ace Harware for eye-catching contrast.

6. Million Bells (Calibrachoa)

For a burst of spectacular summer color, Million Bells, aka Calibrachoa, is hard to beat. These tough trailing annuals thrive in full sun (although not too much if you live somewhere scorching) and come in a wide range of colors from intense pinks, reds, purples and yellows to softer corals, lavender and white. Some cultivars even have pretty striped patterns on their petals.

'Million Bells is a pretty plant that will bloom from spring to fall but unlike geraniums, they do not require deadheading,' says Marci. 'They prefer a little afternoon shade during the intense heat of midsummer.

'In July, I particularly like using a mix of bold red Geraniums with white Million Bells and chartreuse Creeping Jenny to provide a patriotic look for Independence Day.

'This combination of plants beautifully uses the classic "thriller, filler, spiller" gardening method to create lush, cascading, and colorful displays.'

This Cherry Blossom Calibrachoa from Burpee has a profusion of striking white flowers with a cherry pink centre.

What to Shop

These are the plants designers reach for in July when they want to create a luxuriously, layered look with instant impact.

Whether you're refreshing your pots, introducing some structural shade or refining your summer garden design, take inspiration from their selection, and you can do the same.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Air fryers have seen no end to their popularity, especially as more of us look for quicker, smarter ways to cook without juggling extensive cleanup. Alongside them, reusable liners have become one of the simplest upgrades, and ALDI's latest launches are some of the most practical I've seen.

Like my favored PINTAUR Air Fryer Liners from Amazon, the ALDI Crofton Liners are made from non-toxic food-grade silicone to reduce the risk of contamination from 'forever chemicals'. What really stands out, though, is their generous depth, which helps catch flying crumbs, spattering grease, and cooking juices for far easier cleanup after every meal.

Available in square, round, and flat variants, the liners are a seriously smart addition to the best non-toxic air fryers I have seen in a while. They're a godsend for convenient cooking.

If there is one task I dread more than any other, it is cleaning a kitchen after dinner. By the time I have cooked and eaten, all I want to do is sink into the sofa and stay there until bedtime. So, anything that makes this a reality sits high on my list of small kitchen must-haves.

That said, I am loath to create unnecessary trash at home, so coating my air fryer baskets in foil or parchment paper is far from ideal, not to mention that they often move and cover food, which prevents crisping, and poses a fire risk.

Alas, liners are one of the few air fryer accessories I cannot live without, so I put up with subpar results for the sake of convenience. Even most silicone liners are not deep enough to protect from splatters, making scrubbing inevitable.

That is where the ALDI Crofton liners shine. The BPA-free food-safe basket inserts have high edges to keep mess contained − even pesky flying crumbs. The raised ridges help to separate food from accumulating grease while promoting air flow for crispy bases, too.

Better still, unlike most traditional non-stick air fryer baskets, the liners are entirely dishwasher safe, making cleaning as simple as tossing them on the shelf and pressing start. Fret not if you do not own a dishwasher, however. Silicone is non-stick, so all you need is some hot water and dish soap (I suggest the non-toxic Attitude dish soap from Walmart).

What Else to Shop

I've relied on my air fryer for years, whether I'm making breakfast, lunch, or dinner. As a self-confessed lazy chef, I've also learned how to use it to minimize cleanup and maintenance. From non-toxic accessories to essential care tools, these are the air fryer essentials I recommend for streamlining your everyday cooking routine.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Just because you use liners does not mean you should never wash the baskets. This is one of the many air fryer cleaning mistakes that may reduce the life of your appliance.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Heatwaves are becoming more common, making it crucial to understand the intricacies of watering plants in hot weather. Get it right, and your plants can thrive even in soaring temperatures. But get it wrong, however, and plants will struggle and potentially die in dry soil.

Best practise is to water early in the morning, water deeply, mulch to retain moisture in the soil, and keep a closer eye on pots that can dry out in the blink of an eye. What you shouldn’t do is water at the hottest time of the day and just give a light sprinkling, which does your plants no good.

Here we look at when to water a garden during periods of extreme heat and how to gauge the right amount of moisture to give them. These two factors are always integral to how your garden copes in a heatwave. As our summers get hotter, the following factors will make a big difference to your plants.

A classic metal watering can, like this one at Walmart, is a proven go-to watering tool for vegetable gardens, flower containers, or balcony planters.

Do Water Early in the Morning

During hot weather, you want to ensure that whatever watering you do is efficient and the most water possible is available to the plants. The simplest and most effective way to ensure that is to water at the best time of the day.

If you water in the morning or late in the evening, you prevent the rapid evaporation of water that occurs through watering in the height of the sun. The temperature is also cooler at that time of day, and your plants are in the best condition to absorb any moisture in the soil.

Watering the plants early in the day, in particular, can help set them up ready to face the hotter weather that’ll arrive in the upcoming hours.

While first thing in the morning is best, watering in the evening is also a good option, though it can bring additional risk as foliage sits damp overnight, which can attract fungal diseases.

By watering in the morning, you allow foliage to dry out completely during the day, which significantly reduces the risk of fungal diseases. A programmable timer like this on Amazon can be used to schedule your automatic irrigation for the morning.

Don't Water Plants at the Peak of the Day

If you water during the peak midday sun, during the hottest part of the day, it offers no benefits to you or your plants. Not only are you subjecting yourself to the worst of the sun and potentially having to manhandle heavy watering cans in the heat, but it does no good to your plants and can even scar them.

Sean Lade, irrigation expert and director of Easy Garden Irrigation, stresses that gardeners need to ‘avoid watering in the heat of the day’. He adds: ‘Watering at midday when the sun is at its peak can lead to rapid evaporation, reducing the amount of water that reaches the roots.

‘Also, water droplets on the leaves can act as tiny magnifying glasses, which can lead to leaf scorch.’

To avoid leaf scorch, always water the base of the plants. Aim the watering can or hose at the bottom of the plants rather than watering the foliage. Not only can soaking the leaves lead to leaf scorch, but it can also make the plants more susceptible to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew.

A watering wand can be attached to a garden hose to easily direct water at the base of plants, while it can also reach hard-to-reach areas and hanging baskets. An example of such a wand is this telescopic watering wand, available at Amazon.

Do Water Deeply

Plants always benefit more from deep watering than lighter, more frequent irrigation. This is definitely the case when watering plants in hot weather, but also an important point to remember whenever you are out watering.

By watering plants deeply, you encourage them to grow stronger, deeper roots. This makes the plants more resilient to dry conditions as those roots can seek out any moisture deeper in the soil.

Watering deeply also increases the likelihood that the water reaches the root zone, where your plants need it most. This is better than the water simply sitting on the surface and disappearing to evaporation once the temperatures rise.

A soaker hose is a great watering tool for steadily applying water directly to the soil, and you can get a 25-foot soaker hose at Walmart that will slowly release water to the roots.

Don't Just Water the Surface

If you just water the surface, then it can cause multiple issues for plants. One is that the water you are applying will not adequately hydrate the roots, leaving them unable to tolerate increased temperatures.

Mark Lane, award-winning garden designer, author, and TV presenter, recommends not to ‘water a little at a time’ or you will likely see the consequences of that when a heatwave strikes.

He adds: ‘It is better for the plant to water well and deeply. Keeping the soil moist will prevent heat stress, which can be seen by wilting foliage. If soil dries out and water is lost, the condition of the plants will worsen, turning them brown and crunchy.’

Plants given lighter sprinkles of moisture will have smaller root systems, making them more at risk when the top inch or so of soil dries out during a heatwave. It also makes the plant more prone to being topped and roots snapping in strong winds.

Do Mulch to Retain Moisture

Mulching helps to retain water in the soil for longer and makes it available to plants. It can be invaluable to keep soil moist in summer when plants are likely to be extra thirsty.

Michael O’Brien, a garden designer in Los Angeles, California, recommends: ‘Apply organic mulch around your plants to help retain moisture in the soil. Mulch acts as a protective barrier, preventing excessive evaporation and keeping the soil temperature more stable.’

By mulching, you are offering many benefits to your plants during a heatwave. You are conserving moisture and reducing evaporation, but also keeping the soil cooler, which protects the plants from heat stress.

Mulching also suppresses weeds, which prevents them from competing with your garden plants for water. It means the water you are applying in summer exclusively benefits those plants, rather than being stolen by unwanted weeds.

Put a layer 2-4 inches deep of organic types of mulch, such as compost, wood chips (like this Miracle-Gro all-natural mulch from The Home Depot), or straw, around plants. A bonus is that the mulch will also add nutrients to the soil as it breaks down.

Don't Unnecessarily Overwater

Overwatering can be as bad as underwatering; both are common garden watering mistakes capable of killing plants. It can often be a case of overcompensating in hot weather, unwittingly thinking your plants need extra water due to the heat.

However, overwatering leads to root rot and other issues. Putting excess moisture in the soil, more than plants need, causes stunted growth and stressed plants that are more susceptible to pests and fungal diseases.

Always check the soil’s moisture level before watering. A good way to check, especially when watering plants in containers, is to use your fingers to check the moisture levels a few inches under the surface.

Or use a moisture meter to check at a depth in the soil. If the soil is still damp, then wait another day or two before watering. A meter such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you get instant results in the ground or in containers.

Do Check Pots Regularly

‘Most importantly, don’t forget about your potted outdoor plants. They require more water than the plants in the ground,’ warns Michael O’Brien. ‘Ensure your containers have proper drainage holes and monitor their moisture levels more frequently. Adjust the watering frequency to prevent the soil from completely drying out.’

When temperatures spike, plants in container gardens suffer more quickly than those in flower beds or borders. The deep soil of borders, or even raised beds, can hold moisture deeper down; however, in pots there is a finite amount of soil and moisture.

Moisture can be depleted quickly during a heatwave, leaving plants at risk of heat stress and wilting. Careful, regular observation is recommended during hot weather.

Jason Wilkinson, founder of Qwickhose, recommends: ‘For any plants in containers, it’s also better to water these twice daily to ensure they are getting enough moisture, as soil dries out much quicker in pots.'

Make sure to give pots a good soak as underwatering is a common container gardening mistake. The best approach is to thoroughly soak the root ball until water runs out of the pot's drainage holes.

Don't Forget to Move Pots

One of the simplest things to do with plants in containers is to move them to a shadier spot ahead of a heatwave. Moving those pots out of direct sunlight and into garden shade can reduce their heat exposure.

Keeping containers in full sun is a common mistake gardeners make during a heatwave, and it can kill plants. The pots themselves can get incredibly hot, especially black planters. That causes problems for the plants in them as their roots bake.

Mark Lane warns that, as extreme temperatures can ‘cause heat stress, stunt growth and premature death’, it makes it important that heat-sensitive plants are protected from excessive sun.

He also recommends ‘position all plants in a shadier spot when watering’ to ensure they take in all of the moisture given to them.

When it comes to indoor plants and hot weather, he adds: ‘Try and keep the air cool by providing good airflow. Open windows and doors. This will also help keep down pests and diseases and will allow water to be soaked up by the soil more readily and evenly.’

If you are thinking of how to water plants in pots while on vacation, you can consider an automatic watering system, such as this drip irrigation kit available at Walmart, that can provide drip irrigation for potted plants.

Shop Our Watering Edit

It is important to remember that not all plants need lots of extra water during a heatwave. Some native and drought-tolerant plants are more accustomed to local temperature fluctuations in summer, but not all plants are so amenable.

To help you spot any strugglers in your yard, our guide to plants that need more water in a heatwave features seven types of plants that will need extra focus when the temperatures rise in summer.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If you're looking to cut your energy bills, reduce wear on your favorite clothes, or avoid using the dryer during warmer weather, air drying is one of the easiest ways to do it. And with much of the US experiencing another spell of extreme summer heat, many households may be tempted to skip the dryer altogether and make the most of the sunshine.

For many households, that means hanging laundry on an outdoor clothesline whenever the forecast looks promising. While there are plenty of benefits of air-drying laundry, including using less energy and helping fabrics retain their shape, outdoor drying also exposes freshly washed fabrics to the elements. Pollen, insects, dust, humidity, and strong UV rays can all affect how your laundry looks, smells, and feels. In some neighborhoods, HOA rules may even prevent outdoor line drying altogether.

When conditions outside aren't ideal, drying clothes indoors can be a more reliable alternative, helping you dry clothes quickly while protecting fabrics from allergens, pests, and unpredictable weather.

'Air drying is gentler on fabrics than machine drying,' says Ken Doty, COO and Cleaning Expert at The Maids. 'However, where you dry your clothes can make a bigger difference than many people realize.'

Here, laundry professionals explain six reasons why bringing your laundry indoors may sometimes be the smarter option.

1. Unpredictable Weather Can Undo Your Hard Work

The ideal day for drying laundry outside is warm, dry, and breezy, but the weather doesn't always cooperate. Sudden rain showers can leave clothes soaking wet all over again, while strong winds may blow laundry off the line or coat freshly washed fabrics with dust, dirt, and debris.

Rain and wind are among the biggest drawbacks of outdoor drying because they can leave freshly washed laundry covered in grime or even send it 'off the line completely,' meaning you'll likely have to wash everything again. This is especially common during summer thunderstorm season across much of the US, when clear mornings can quickly give way to afternoon downpours.

For those unpredictable weather days, an indoor drying rack can be a useful backup. The Amazon Basics Foldable Portable Laundry Rack is a practical choice for air drying clothes indoors, with a collapsible design that makes it easy to store away when not in use.

2. Pollen Can Trigger Allergy Symptoms

If you or someone in your household struggles with seasonal allergies, drying clothes outside could bring pollen straight back into your home. Even after washing with hypoallergenic detergent, damp fabrics can easily trap pollen from trees, grasses, and weeds while they're hanging outdoors.

According to Cleaning Expert Ken Doty, this is particularly problematic during spring and summer, when 'common allergens' become trapped in clothing and carried back inside. Rather than helping to reduce allergens in your home, outdoor drying can spread them onto bedding, towels, and clothing, making allergy symptoms more difficult to manage.

If you do need to rewash laundry after it's been exposed to high pollen levels, a fragrance- and dye-free detergent can help. The all® Free Clear Liquid Laundry Detergent is a good option for allergy-prone households, as it's formulated for sensitive skin and removes 99% of top everyday and seasonal allergens, including ragweed, grass, and tree pollen. It's widely available from Amazon.

3. High Humidity Can Leave Clothes Smelling Musty

Warm weather doesn't always mean fast drying. In humid parts of the country, including much of the Southeast and Gulf Coast, laundry can remain damp for hours, creating the perfect environment for bacteria, mold, and mildew. While the best tumble dryers are designed to dry clothes quickly regardless of the weather, outdoor air drying is far less predictable when humidity levels are high.

Professional Cleaner Trish Duarte, Franchise Owner of MaidPro Temecula and Murrieta, recommends that clothes be dry within two to six hours whenever possible. She says a musty smell is a clear warning sign that bacteria, mold, and mildew are developing and means the load should be washed again. She also recommends adding OxiClean Odor Blaster from Amazon or pure sodium percarbonate when rewashing musty laundry to help tackle lingering bacteria.

If outdoor humidity is high, drying clothes indoors with good airflow, a dehumidifier, or a heated drying rack can often produce fresher, faster results.

If you don't have space for a traditional drying rack, we tested the Eclipse™ 3-tier Ecru Clothes Drying Rack With Screen and loved it as a stylish alternative to drying clothes outside. The slim, foldable design conceals laundry behind a fabric screen while allowing air to circulate freely, making it especially useful for apartments, laundry rooms, or small homes where space is at a premium.

4. HOA Rules Could Limit Your Options

Even if you have a backyard or patio that's perfect for line drying, you may not be allowed to use it. Many homeowners' associations (HOAs) prohibit or restrict visible clotheslines for aesthetic reasons, while some local communities have their own rules governing outdoor laundry drying.

That said, protections do exist. Several states, including California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Hawaii, Maine, New Mexico, Oregon, Tennessee, Utah, and Vermont, have enacted some form of 'Right to Dry' legislation, which limits how much HOAs and local governments can restrict residents from line drying their laundry.

Because these laws vary widely in scope, it's worth checking your HOA's bylaws, lease agreement, and local ordinances before installing or regularly using an outdoor clothesline. Even in states with 'Right to Dry' protections, there may still be reasonable restrictions on where and how clotheslines can be used.

5. Strong Sunshine Can Fade Colors Faster

Sunshine helps speed up drying, but prolonged exposure to UV rays can gradually break down fabric dyes. While the current heatwave affecting large parts of the US may seem like the perfect opportunity to dry laundry outdoors, higher temperatures are often accompanied by stronger UV levels. That combination can speed up drying, but it can also increase the risk of fading, particularly for dark or brightly colored fabrics left in direct sunlight for several hours.

Daniel Brown, CEO of Handy Cleaners, says fabrics 'might fade faster due to excessive exposure to the sun,' especially brightly colored or dark clothing. Black garments, denim, richly colored towels, and vibrant summer clothing are often the first to show signs of fading.

If you prefer drying clothes outside, turning garments inside out or hanging them in partial shade can help preserve their color for longer. Washing dark loads with a color-care detergent, such as Woolite Darks Defense Liquid Laundry Detergent, available from Amazon, can also help protect dyes from fading over time, helping your favorite pieces stay looking newer for longer despite repeated washing and sun exposure.

6. Insects Can Hitch a Ride Into Your Home

Freshly laundered clothes can attract more than just compliments. Sweet-smelling detergent residue and damp natural fibers may appeal to ants, spiders, bees, and other insects, especially during the warmer months.

Trish Duarte says insects can stain fabrics, create holes in clothing, and even leave you with an unpleasant surprise when you get dressed. 'Ants can make their way onto your clothes, and some can bite,' she says.

Bringing laundry inside as soon as it's dry and giving each item a quick shake before folding or placing it in the laundry basket can help prevent unwanted summer pests from making their way indoors. If you're storing freshly washed linens or seasonal clothing, adding natural cedar blocks to closets and drawers can provide an extra layer of protection against fabric pests.

The Homode Cedar Blocks for Clothes Storage, available on Amazon, are made from aromatic cedar and can be tucked into drawers, storage bins, or hung in closets to help deter clothes moths while keeping stored fabrics smelling fresh.

Shop Clothes Drying Essentials

Drying clothes outside remains one of the simplest and most energy-efficient ways to do laundry, and in the right conditions, it's an excellent way to help clothes last longer. But when pollen counts are high, humidity slows drying, UV rays are particularly intense, or stormy weather is on the horizon, moving your laundry indoors can help protect fabrics while keeping them smelling fresh.

The good news is that you don't have to rely on the dryer to achieve great results. A well-placed drying rack, heated airer, or dehumidifier can help clothes dry quickly indoors while shielding them from the elements. By matching your drying method to the weather and season, you'll get the best of both worlds: the fabric-care benefits of air drying without the drawbacks that sometimes come with hanging laundry outside.

The scent of unexpected fragrant summer flowers on a warm summer's evening is irresistible. An easy way to elevate outdoor entertaining spaces is by choosing easy-going flowers that perform well for patios, terraces, courtyards and small gardens. In addition think about other areas that would benefit from scent too, such as paths, porches and pergolas.

The dining area is also a good spot to focus your efforts on. Fragrant plants such as sweet-scented climbers or night flowering nicotiana will add something special to the mix when you gather round the table. In addition to popular choices like lavender, roses and sweet peas there are a multitude of other more unusual fragrant summer flowers to discover that will make you stop in your tracks every time you pass by.

This prompted us to ask the experts for their take on the best fragrant summer flowers to scent your space that have been overlooked up to now. The plants they've chosen can transform gardens, delight the senses and attract beneficial pollinators. Some of these low-effort, high-impact scent plants offer evening or night fragrance too. (one of my absolute favorite's is bee balm, and if you can't wait to grow it from seed you can find established bee balm plants at Amazon.) It's easy bringing scent to your garden, and careful selection can provide a succession of fragrance to last right through summer.

1. Polianthes tuberosa

If you're looking to add beauty, fragrance, and a little luxury to your landscape, few flowers can rival tuberose. Famous for its opulent, intoxicating fragrance, it grows significantly stronger and sweeter at night.

This makes it a go-to choice if you're entertaining and looking for unusual fragrant summer flowers to plant that will take center stage in the evening.

Native to Mexico, tuberose has been treasured for centuries as one of the world's most fragrant flowers and remains a favorite ingredient in luxury perfumes.

A few stems in a vase can perfume an entire room for days, making it one of the finest cut flowers you can grow. Find tuberose tubers here on Amazon.

'If I could only grow one flower for fragrance, it would be Polianthes tuberosa,' says horticulturist Peggy Anne Montgomery, representing Flowerbulb.eu. 'As summer blooms begin to fade, one flower is just getting started.

'Tuberose sends up elegant spikes of creamy white blooms that fill the garden with an unforgettable fragrance often compared to gardenia, orange blossom, and jasmine. The sweet perfume grows even stronger in the evening, turning patios, porches, and moon gardens into an outdoor retreat. They are the highlight of my evening walks around the garden.'

''The Pearl' is especially prized for its lush, double flowers that bloom from late summer into early fall, just when many gardens are running out of color,' continues Peggy Anne. 'Growing 24 to 28 inches tall in full sun, it fits beautifully in borders, containers, and patio pots while attracting bees and butterflies.'

Plant the bulbs in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Give them full sun, rich, well-drained soil, regular watering, and a monthly organic fertilizer during the growing season. In colder climates (Zones 3-7), simply lift the bulbs before winter and store them indoors until spring. In Zones 8-10, you can often leave them in the ground year after year.

2. Trumpet Lilies

If you're looking for one flower that delivers height, elegance, pollinator appeal, and one of the most memorable fragrances in the garden, trumpet lilies deserve a place in every landscape.

'When gardeners think of fragrant lilies, they often think of oriental lilies,' says Peggy Anne, 'but trumpet lilies (Lilium regale) get my vote for best fragrance. Just last night I cut a single stem for our living room table, and the house filled with its spicy fragrance. Some flowers catch your eye. Trumpet lilies capture your senses.' You can find trumpet lilies at Amazon.

When warm summer evenings arrive, few plants can rival the intoxicating perfume of trumpet lilies. Their rich, sweet fragrance, often compared to jasmine, citrus blossom, and honey, drifts through the garden, transforming patios, porches, and outdoor living spaces into an unforgettable summer retreat.

But these lilies don't stop at fragrance. They grow taller and produce more flowers each year, eventually reaching up to six feet tall, each carrying as many as 25 enormous, outward-facing trumpet blooms that can stretch 6 to 8 inches long. The result is a spectacular display that attracts a wide variety of pollinators.

Plant trumpet lilies in the fall in a sunny border or near a deck, patio, or open window where their perfume can be enjoyed day and night. Their sturdy stems make them exceptional cut flowers, filling bouquets with dramatic beauty and a fragrance that perfumes an entire room for days.

Easy to grow and hardy in Zones 3–8, trumpet lilies can also be grown in pots, and return year after year, making them one of the most rewarding perennial bulbs in the garden

3. Monarda ‘Electric Neon Purple’

'Monarda, more commonly known as bee balm, is extremely fragrant,' says certified arborist Peter Lowe of The Dawes Arboretum. 'Monarda ‘Electric Neon Purple’ provides a vibrant shock of color in the early summer garden.

This bright purple is one of the newer colors available in the Electric Neon series. In our Learning Garden at The Dawes Arboretum, this selection has shown a fabulous ability to retain solid, clean colors in both flower and foliage.

'The contrast between the dark green leaves truly makes the large purple flowers pop from across the garden. It has also shown resistance to powdery mildew that has yet to make an appearance on this plant in the four years it’s been in our garden.' It grows best in airy and open conditions, in Zones 3-9.

Choose from a selection of bee balm varieties at Nature Hills.

Coming from the mint family, the foliage of this bee balm provides a sweet, lovely scent if you're looking for inspiration on how to plant a fragrant garden. That aroma attracts many visitors to the garden from hummingbirds to butterflies and the ever-present bumble bee.

'Plant in full sun from morning to early afternoon, and protect it from the late afternoon sun in a bit of shade,' advises Peter. 'Space the plants approximately 15 inches apart to allow good air circulation. Standing about 24 inches tall and 30 wide, this beauty will be a showstopper in your garden, especially when planted en masse.'

4. Honeysuckle Vine 'Goldflame'

'Honeysuckle vine is extremely fragrant, and we currently have it growing in our Learning Garden at The Arboretum,' says Peter. 'It smells like very sweet honey. It grows the best with full sun on an arbor, and it can be pruned into a mounded shrub. It can grow well over 10 feet, and will bloom all summer long.'

Opt for a handsome cultivar like 'Goldflame' (Lonicera x. heckrottii), available here at Amazon.

Deciduous, semi-evergreen or evergreen, climbing honeysuckles twine around a support. Grow them so they cover trellises with foliage and flowers, as well as scenting the air. Plant near a path or seating area to enjoy the fragrance as you walk by or sit in the garden.

Choose a strongly scented variety of honeysuckle vine. Not all are scented so it's good to know which ones are. 'Objectively, most plants have some type of fragrance to them, no matter how distinct or not,' explains Peter.

'Additionally, fragrance is very specific to each cultivar rather than an entire genus (the family of the plant). Some plants in the genus may be unscented, but other plants within the genus are celebrated for their distinct scent.'

This twining vine features fragrant rose pink flowers with yellow interiors that bloom profusely from June to August. It's easily grown in full sun to part shade, and semi-evergreen in warmer winter climates, thriving in Zones 5-9.

What to Shop

5. Night-Scented Stock

Now it's my turn to contribute with my own suggestions for unusual fragrant summer flowers. I love sitting in my garden on summer evenings (once the watering and deadheading is done) and always make sure I include some night-scented stocks (Matthiola longipetala) in my summer planting selection.

Plant evening scented stock seeds, available here at Amazon, from February to May depending where you live. It thrives as a hardy annual across Zones 2 to 10.

In my opinion this is one of the best unusual fragrant summer flowers you can grow, and I love its delicate star-shaped blooms too, which are so much more subtle than the showier daytime variety of stock.

It's easy to overlook night-scented plants when you're planning what to grow in spring, especially as you’ll need to sow this annual every year to bring its beautiful fragrance and color to your yard. But it will be so worth it for the wonderful scent the tiny flowers produce and the ease of growing them.

This heavily scented hardy annual releases an intoxicating, spicy-vanilla perfume at dusk. The mauve and white blooms are a classic for container gardens on patios, where you can enjoy their evening aroma long into the night, as well as near open windows or doorways where you can also appreciate their perfume.

6. Nicotiana alata ‘Lime Green’

Another night-scented variety of unusual fragrant summer flowers I can't get enough of is the 'Lime Green' nicotiana, which I discovered only recently. I like it because it's one of the more unusual fragrant summer flowers, plus the unique color is best shown off in the evening light and it's nice to have scented choices for the night garden.

Find Nicotiana 'Lime Green' here at Select Seeds or buy the lime, white or red variants of the Star Maker series here at True Leaf Market if you fancy a mix of colors.

Typically when I think of nicotiana (also known as tobacco plant) the much more common white varieties come to mind. While these are generally deemed to be the most fragrant types of nicotiana the bright chartreuse-colored flowers of this cultivar also have an intense evening scent that truly sets them apart.

The prolific trumpet-like flowers open at dusk and are a magnet for moths all summer long. This variety also attracts bees and other beneficial insects to your garden. Easy to grow, it's a great choice for large patio pots as it likes being planted in well-drained soil in a sheltered, sunny spot. It's also great in the middle of a border.

If you're entertaining plant up a pot of these beauties for the porch so your guests are treated to a waft of intoxicating scent when they arrive.

This tender perennial is winter hardy to Zones 10-11. Therefore, it is grown as an annual in cooler zones. Sow seeds outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or indoors 6-8 weeks prior to the last spring frost date.

These unusual fragrant summer flower choices should inspire your choices. Now find out how to plant a scented border for year round perfume, and how to use fragrance in the yard for wellbeing to tap into the health benefits of scent.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If you or your child is heading off to college in the fall, your attention may already be turning to dorm bedding and perfecting their sleep setup, to be as comfortable away as at home. Dorm beds are notoriously sub-par, but it's all too easy to spend too much on dorm bedding, especially as dorm beds are often oddly sized, too − usually Twin XL but not always − which means taking bedding from home is usually not an option, either.

That's where I come in. As the resident Sleep Editor here at Homes & Gardens, who graduated from college only four years ago, I've compiled this guide to cover everything you'll need, and nothing you don't, covering sizing differences, washing and care concerns, balancing cost and quality on what is a fairly short-term purchase, and choosing between different types of bedding.

So, to balance the best options with the best value for money to transform a dorm room, look no further than our expert guide.

The Ultimate Dorm Bedding Checklist

All the sizes and pricing in this dorm room bedding guide refer to Twin XL bedding, as most dorm rooms use Twin XL mattresses, but always check with the particular college before making a purchase, as this can differ.

If you're using a topper and protector, don't forget that you'll need sheets with deep pockets (at least 14 to 16 inches) to fit over both of those, and your mattress itself. Dorm mattresses may usually be thin and lackluster, but once you've added a thick, plush topper, any standard sheet will pop right off the corners and become bothersome.

A Mattress Topper

Investing in one of the best mattress toppers for a dorm bed is perhaps the most important consideration when it comes to college dorm bedding. I know all too well how often you'll find yourself having to fix a sagging mattress as you move each year, and a topper is a simple, affordable way to add comfort and support.

If you're a hot sleeper, opt for a cooling option for a refreshing sleep surface. Sleepers who struggle with aches and pains, or who play a lot of sport, will find something firmer and more comfortable, whereas those who suffer from allergies should opt for something hypoallergenic, particularly as dorm rooms are often dusty and not regularly cleaned.

A Mattress Protector

The second most important purchase you’ll make for college dorm bedding is undoubtedly a mattress protector. Dorm beds have usually seen no end of students come and go, so, unless your room comes with a brand new mattress, this is a non-negotiable hygiene barrier.

To that end, it’s best to go for something zippered, waterproof, and bed-bug proof, as cleaning pros warn that this is one of the dirtiest places in a bedroom. The good news is that protectors tend to be very affordable, particularly compared to toppers, pillows, sheets, and other essentials, and they're also easy to clean and quick to dry.

Fitted and Flat Sheets

Next, used over both your topper and protector, the best bed sheets for a dorm room will be easy to care for, as laundry services are usually limited, soft, and breathable. My top tip? Buy two sets so they can be swapped on laundry day, but not so many that you won’t have space to store them.

If you’re a hot sleeper, the best Amazon cooling sheets offer a plethora of options at a more affordable price point than buying directly from the same more luxurious retailers you may use at home. Once you master how to make a bed like an expert, it’ll look just as high-end, too.

For the best deal, a bedding set includes everything you need for a college sleep space, but doesn't let you customize your options. If you're shopping for a simple option, then a set is best, but it's worth shopping around to check all your options. Some retailers will also offer bundle deals for added savings.

Don't forget to add a blanket, too, as an extra layer at the foot of the bed is perfect for chilly nights or for when friends come over.

A Comforter or Duvet Insert

While you may be used to using a comforter at home, and may be browsing dorm room comforters or dorm quilts, I’d argue that a duvet insert in a cover is a better option, as it’s far easier to wash bed linen than it is to wash a comforter, and you can switch the covers,

That being said, if you know you’ll have access to large washing machines and dryers, a comforter offers a convenient all-in-one solution.

Most importantly, dorm room temperatures fluctuate wildly, and you often won’t have access to changing the temperature. I spent many winter nights before Christmas cold in my dorm room and overheating once the radiators were on in January and February, so opting for a medium-weight, synthetic-down alternative is a good option, offering both comfort and usually being easier to clean than down or silk picks.

Pillows

Finally, never underestimate the importance of investing in one of the best pillows in college. After all, out of all the bedding you need, these have longevity as they can be used on any other-sized bed once you graduate. A comfortable pillow can also vastly improve your sleep quality, and help you to fall asleep faster, too − an invaluable quality when you’ve got to be up early for lectures and seminars.

As the bed in a dorm room doubles as a couch, workspace, and lounge area, I’d recommend buying at least two pillows: One for sleeping and a second for sitting comfortably when propped up against the headboard, which, from experience, tend to be hard and uncomfortable. A couple of harder cushions certainly never go amiss either, and have the added benefit of making your bed look like a little more hotel-esque.

Washing and Care

It's far more difficult to do laundry at college, as laundry rooms tend to be extremely busy with simple machines, and it's likely that your child won't be using, or won't be able to use, delicate cycles or fabric softeners. For that reason, it's best to choose dorm bedding in materials that are durable, breathable, and easy to clean.

• Material: I'd recommend investing in 100 per cent cotton, in either percale or sateen, or bamboo blends. Cotton percale is crisp and cool, so ideal for hot sleepers or stuffy dorm rooms with bad or no AC, while sateen is softer, heavier, and feels more luxurious, but can be slightly more difficult to clean.
• Avoid polyester and microfiber: These materials are undoubtedly budget-friendly, but can trap heat, pill easily, and cause night sweats. If you do need something more affordable, though, opt for microfiber that's high-quality and brushed for added breathability.
• Thread count: Don't get weighed down by worrying about thread count. For college, a thread count between 200 and 400 is perfect for balancing both durability and breathability.
• Easy care: Before buying anything, ensure it's both machine washable and dryer-safe, which is essential for sanitizing and keeping a sleep space hygienic.

FAQs

What's the Best Color for Dorm Bedding?

I love the look of crisp white sheets, but at college, I always opted for bright patterns and darker colors, which hide a multitude of sins from stains and spillages. For that reason, navy, grey, olive, or subtle patterns are the best color options.

For example, the Clarissa Floral Vine Sheet Set, available at Urban Outfitters, is a great, affordable option to add some pattern and character to any dorm room space.

Once you've ticked off this dorm bedding checklist, check out how to deep clean a dorm room and keep pests out of a dorm room.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

For the last decade or so, white kitchens have dominated design because they feel bright, clean, and timeless. The all-white aesthetic reached its peak in the 2010s, but right now, homeowners are increasingly drawn to kitchen color ideas with more warmth, depth, and character.

'Pure white had a long run, but it started to feel stark – and honestly, a little builder-grade,' says Nikki Holt, creative director at Kimberly Timmons Interiors. Particularly with new kitchens, white became a default choice rather than a conscious design decision. But it had its drawbacks, often reading as too cold, sometimes even blue, while also being difficult to keep pristine.

However, designers aren’t abandoning neutrals altogether – instead, they’re embracing softer shades that deliver the same versatility as white, but feel more welcoming and lived-in. Oatmeal shades – those gentle hues that sit somewhere between cream, taupe, and beige – are emerging as the new favorite in kitchen color trends. Understated yet characterful, they bring depth and comfort without overwhelming a space.

Why Oatmeal Is Replacing White as the New Neutral

Oatmeal tones bring a sense of grace to a space, creating a warmth that white can’t replicate. 'Lately, I see more clients asking for spaces that feel warm rather than perfect,' reveals Kate Kerdi, founder of Kate Kerdi Interiors. 'An oatmeal kitchen still feels light and timeless, but it has much more depth. Instead of feeling cold or overly polished, the kitchen feels relaxed, lived in, and inviting – exactly how the heart of the home should feel.'

Corine Maggio, of Corine Maggio Design, agrees. 'White kitchens show everything – every splash, smudge, and hard-water mark. Oatmeal has the same neutral versatility but with warmth and forgiveness built in; it ages gracefully rather than looking tired,' she says. Corine reveals the key to keeping it timeless rather than trend-bound is choosing a balanced oatmeal without a fashionable undertone pulling it too pink, too yellow, or too gray.

Oatmeal tones possess a remarkable flexibility, allowing them to harmonize with a wide variety of finishes while providing the perfect backdrop for practically any kitchen style. 'You can use oatmeal tones in contemporary homes, organic interiors, and even more classic spaces,' adds Kate. 'It doesn’t define the style; it simply creates a beautiful foundation that allows the materials and details to stand out.'

Oatmeal tones reflect light beautifully and create visual richness because they contain undertones that shift throughout the day as natural light changes. Sarah Wakefield, Creative Director at Jolie, points out that unlike flat white finishes, oat tones offer greater depth, adding richness without overwhelming the room. 'Rather than relying on stark contrasts, these kitchens feel curated through materiality, texture, and craftsmanship,' says Leigh Misso, owner at River Brook Design & Construction. 'That layered approach often feels more custom and expensive than a simple white-on-white palette.'

The Best Oatmeal Paint Colors for Kitchens

As designers have mentioned, not all oatmeal shades are made equal. You want to pick a paint with the right undertones so it's timeless, without leaning too trend-led. These are the best oatmeal paints for kitchens, tried and tested by designers.

Farrow & Ball Joa’s White

According to Farrow & Ball’s Creative Director, Charlotte Cosby, Joa’s White is a light and clean taupe with the merest hint of black pigment, which makes it perfect to combine with limestone, leather and linens. In this project by Rosey Wood Interiors, a subtle tonal variation creates depth, with cabinetry in Farrow & Ball’s Joa’s White and walls in Pointing. Joa’s White is frequently chosen by designers for its ability to offset the coolness in north-facing rooms, featuring strong red, yellow, and brown undertones, which give it a cozy, creamy, and lived-in quality.

Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter

'We're particularly drawn to warm, nuanced neutral paints like Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter and Sherwin-Williams Dumpling,' says Leigh of River Brook Design & Construction. 'We’ve recently completed projects in both, and the result is stunning. Revere Pewter continues to be one of our favorite timeless greige tones, offering just enough warmth and depth to feel inviting while remaining incredibly versatile. It has a softness and depth that changes throughout the day, creating a warm, welcoming presence without feeling overly creamy or beige. It feels timeless, sophisticated, and effortlessly livable.'

Little Greene Rolling Fog Light

'Little Greene's Rolling Fog Light works so well because of its subtle warmth – unlike a stark white, which can appear quite cool in north-facing rooms, Rolling Fog has enough depth to counterbalance any blue tones, creating a softer, more welcoming atmosphere without feeling overtly beige,' says Matthew of Cor Domi. 'The color changes beautifully throughout the day; in bright natural light it reads as a calm, understated neutral, while in the evening or under warmer artificial lighting it develops a richer, more cocooning quality.'

Benjamin Moore Baby Fawn

For Nikki, her go-to shade is Baby Fawn by Benjamin Moore. 'It’s the oatmeal we keep coming back to at Kimberly Timmons Interiors – soft and warm without tipping into tan, and it holds its character beautifully whether it’s catching bright morning light or softer evening light, which is exactly what you want in a kitchen. You can see it grounding the entire space in our Roots project, shown here.'

Sherwin-Williams Shiitake

'Sherwin-Williams Shiitake is a fun color that morphs from a medium deep shade to a soft off-white depending on the time of day and how direct the lighting is,' says Gillian Blair of Tête-à-tête Interiors. 'While a warm neutral, it plays with cool tones so perfectly – we really enjoy pairing this color with steely blues, olive greens, warm wood tones, and mixed metals. Because of its flexibility, we've used it to both soften modern palettes from being too stark and also to lighten a traditional palette that would otherwise feel stuffy.'

What Colors and Materials Work Best With Oatmeal Kitchens?

Matthew Andrews says that warm and tactile materials are generally the answer when it comes to creating a cohesive palette. 'We'll typically put unlacquered brass kitchen hardware with it, aged oak door front accents and honed quartz or travertine with it for worktops, and if there's any seating involved, something tactile like linen or bouclé.' He says the main thing to avoid is anything too polished or cool alongside it – chrome and high-gloss finishes tend to flatten it out. 'Warm metal, natural stone and oatmeal cabinetry is a combination that's very hard to argue with.'

'When you pair oatmeal with organic materials like oak, Taj Mahal quartzite, and unlacquered brass, you create a kitchen that welcomes a lived-in patina,' adds Emily Flaxman of Flax Interiors. 'It trades the clinical feel of kitchens from the past decade for a space that feels thoughtful, grounded, and alive.'

In terms of color pairings, Sabah Mansoor of Sabah Mansoor Design favors muted, earthy tones like charcoal, terracotta, and moss, whereas Gillian Blair of Tête-à-tête Interiors has been leaning towards blue-toned natural stones, olive greens, and burgundy accents.

Regardless of which oatmeal shade you select, Lisa recommends extending the cabinetry color onto the perimeter walls. 'Oatmeal tones perform best when paired with soft, complementary wall colors; a stark white wall can often make these nuanced shades appear dull or dingy by comparison,' she says.

Is Oatmeal Actually as Timeless as White?

Matthew sees oatmeal as being just as timeless as white going forward. 'White worked as a timeless choice partly because it was genuinely neutral, and partly because everyone used it,' he says. 'Now that everyone has used it, it carries more baggage. Oatmeal feels like an intentional decision, and it adapts effortlessly to changing decor and design styles over the years. It functions as a true neutral backdrop in the same way white does but with more warmth, which means it tends to flatter rather than fight with whatever sits alongside it.'

'From a resale perspective, oatmeal remains highly approachable. It appeals to a wide range of buyers because it feels current without being polarizing,' says Leigh. 'We often describe it as a future-proof neutral – one that offers more personality than white but retains the flexibility homeowners value.'

According to Nikki, part of the reason why designers reach for oatmeal so often is how generously it plays with natural materials. 'It pairs beautifully with any wood tone, from light oak to deeper walnut, and it sits comfortably alongside natural stone whether the veining runs cool or warm – that kind of versatility is rare in a neutral, and that’s why it’s here to stay.'

Ultimately, we’re seeing a broader move away from stark minimalism towards warmer, more tactile interiors, and oatmeal caters perfectly to that shift, offering a balance between white and beige that feels both contemporary and enduring. 'Oatmeal does everything a great neutral should,' adds Nikki. 'It's a quiet, flattering backdrop that lets your materials, your art, and your life take center stage – it shifts effortlessly as your decorating style evolves and creates a layered, elevated look that will always feel both timeless and designed.'

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

With scorching temperatures threatening our gardens this summer, finding ways to keep plants hydrated is crucial. But, it can be exhausting and time-consuming to keep on top of watering. That's why pros rely on summer mulching.

Mulching refers to putting down a layer of organic material at the base of your plants. It locks in moisture, helps regulate soil temperature, and even suppresses weeds. In summer especially, it's a handy tool to protect plants in a heatwave with little effort.

The best part is you can use fallen leaves and compost from your own yard as mulch, so it doesn't have to cost a thing. Alternatively, you can purchase brown mulch from Lowe's for less than $5. Here, with insights from a garden expert, we explain how summer mulching can keep your garden safe over the next few months.

Why Put Down Mulch in Summer?

You may be more familiar with November mulching in preparation to protect plants from frost. During the coldest months, this layer of organic material provides insulation. But, it has dual purpose and also aids plant survival in the hottest conditions.

When there's a lack of rain and extreme heat during the summer months, mulch helps lock in moisture and keep soil cool. Alongside correctly watering plants in hot weather, this keeps symptoms of heat stress away.

'Having a layer of mulch on your soil creates a protective layer that helps retain the moisture-from-above by reducing evaporation,' explains gardening author and podcaster, Martha Retallick.

After deep watering your plants, this means you won't need to water so frequently again because the mulch is retaining moisture to keep roots hydrated.

'I also like mulch for soil temperature regulation. It acts like a cooling blanket that keeps the soil from heating up like an oven. In the summertime, that’s important. It also keeps the soil cool at night,' Martha adds.

This stops roots burning and becoming severely dehydrated, and it keeps soil in the ground for longer.

Mulching also suppresses weeds by smothering them and blocking light. This keeps your beds and borders neat, but also stops weeds stealing water and nutrients from your plants, reducing stress in hot weather.

Martha notes there's also a long-term benefit of summer mulching:

'It improves soil health as it breaks down. The mulch provides organic material that enriches the soil, enhances its structure, and its ability to retain moisture.'

This is especially true when you use mulching materials like pine bark (which you can find at Walmart), organic compost, and fallen leaves. As they break down, they put lots of essential plant nutrients into the soil and support plant growth.

How to Apply Summer Mulch

To use summer mulching properly, you first need to do some preparation.

Get rid of any weeds in the area and water the soil well. Installing a drip irrigation system (like this kit from Amazon) will ensure your plants have a good supply of water all summer.

Then, put down 2-3 inches of mulch around the base of your plant. Make sure to leave a two inch gap around the stems to ensure there is airflow and to stop excess moisture rotting the plant material.

When you then water your plants through summer, use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to monitor when the soil has dried out. You should then water deeply to ensure the moisture reaches the root zone.

What to Shop

It isn't just mulching that will keep your garden healthy and happy in summer. You can also grow plants that cool a garden and tick off your summer gardening checklist.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If your tomato plants are like mine at the moment, they’ll be growing strongly, producing flowers, and maybe even showing the first fruits. It is a crucial time in the season, and there are certain things you need to do with tomato plants in July to keep them healthy; the most important is watering.

As the focus shifts from producing foliage to developing and ripening fruit, it is pivotal to keep the plants well-watered, especially when the temperatures soar. If they dry out, they will drop flowers, and inconsistent watering can lead to split fruits and blossom-end rot. Tomato plants also need to be fed and pruned this month to ensure no energy is wasted and to help your plants avoid succumbing to disease.

When growing tomatoes, July is an exciting month as you see the first glimpses of those tantalizing harvests to come. A few crucial maintenance tasks this month ensure your plants remain in perfect health and you can enjoy rich pickings in the weeks to come. With watering a key concern, expandable hose like the Flexzilla one on Amazon is perfect for the job and stores super easily.

Stay on Top of Watering

Tomatoes are thirsty plants. They usually need one or two inches of water a week, but this requirement increases during a heatwave, especially when the plants are flowering and fruiting. If yours, like mine, are now just starting to bloom and showing the first fruits, it is a crucial time to keep up regular watering.

Use your fingers or a soil moisture meter (available at Amazon) to measure the water levels an inch or two under the surface of the soil. If it is dry, then water plants deeply. This may need to be done daily, or more often if the tomatoes are in containers.

Another useful tip is to always water the soil, and not the foliage. Soaking the leaves puts the plant at risk of common fungal tomato diseases, such as powdery mildew.

It is hard to be exact about how much water tomato plants need; it can vary depending on your climate, where the plants are growing, and whether they are in the ground or in containers – tomatoes in pots are going to dry out much faster than those in the ground.

Staying on top of watering is important. If the soil dries out completely, plants can drop their flowers. And consistency is key, as inconsistent watering causes tomatoes to split or the fruits to suffer from blossom-end rot.

Feed Plants Regularly

The best plants and harvests always come from fertilizing tomatoes at least weekly during the summer with a fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus and potassium.

All advice for growing tomatoes will tell you to feed plants regularly with tomato feed once they start flowering, which mine are now doing, as will many gardeners’ at this point in the season.

I am using a seaweed-based fertilizer this year, but you can use any liquid tomato feed for the task. This tomato booster at Walmart, for example, is a great liquid feed and has an NPK of 3:8:7.

It is up to you how often you wish to feed them, but my preference is every week or two, depending on where the plants are growing.

If you grow tomatoes in pots or grow bags, like I am in my greenhouse at home and did for many years as a professional gardener, I always think it is important to have a regular weekly feeding regime. I have steadfastly stuck by this routine for years and got big harvests from plants in greenhouses when I was growing for restaurants – and I still do it at home.

You can opt to feed tomatoes growing in the ground weekly, or stretch it to every two weeks as the soil doesn’t leach nutrients as quickly as potting soil in containers.

Prune to Focus the Plants Energy

Tomatoes grow vigorously when they get the sun and warmth they desire. Sometimes it can be too vigorous, and they need controlling.

Check your plants at least weekly in July to prune tomato plants and remove suckers. These shoots form between the main stem and the leaves on vining or indeterminate tomato varieties, and they do grow quickly. But they take energy away from the rest of the plant.

Snip away these side shoots before they get too large, so the plant’s energy is focused on forming flowers and developing fruits rather than unnecessary extra shoots.

Side shoots can be nipped off with your fingers if they are small. Otherwise, you want to use pruning snips or pruning shears to remove shoots and leaves. I use a pair of these Felco pruning snips, available at Amazon, and they are ideal for precise pruning tasks like these.

Too many stems also impair airflow and increase the risk of disease, as fungal diseases can take hold if plants are congested.

Talking of disease, you should also prune away the lowest leaves this month, as well as any yellow tomato leaves. Removing the bottom foliage stops soil-borne fungal and bacterial spores from splashing up onto the plant, and helps with airflow, too.

Provide Support and Shade

When a heatwave strikes, it may be important to shade plants, especially if they are growing in a greenhouse. Tomatoes love heat, but not too much. They get stressed when the temperatures exceed 90°F, and this can cause them to drop flowers.

If it looks like your temperatures may be hitting those dangerous levels, cover plants with shade cloth. A 30-50% shade cloth (such as this shade cloth at Amazon) can provide sufficient protection from the excessive heat and sun scorch.

Tomato plants will be growing quickly at this stage of the season. You should already have supports in place for them, as ideally you put them in place when you transplant tomato seedlings.

However, if yours are not yet supported, remember to do this quickly. The plants get tall and top-heavy, and not supporting them leads to flopping stems and, in a worst-case scenario, snapping.

Use a stake or bamboo pole and tie the plants in with soft ties to prevent damaging the stems. Or you can use tomato cages to surround the plants and keep them upright.

What to Shop

FAQs

Can You Plant Tomatoes in July?

July is late to plant tomatoes, but you can still plant fast-growing determinate or bush varieties of tomatoes and get a crop before the end of the season. You can get a four-pack of live patio tomato plants at Amazon that are determinate varieties and fruit quickly.

Any list of what to do with tomato plants in July may include picking for those gardeners who started their plants off early in the year. The harvesting season starts in July, so keep a close eye on when to harvest tomatoes so you get those first fruits at the right time. Once the color deepens and the fruits have a little give when squeezed, they are ready to pick.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The Opening Note

As a Brit, it’s impossible to be fully immersed in the holiday weekend the US has just celebrated without making observations. My American friends and colleagues decorate outdoors in a way that simply wouldn’t occur to the British, with porches and yards, front and back, decked out in red, white, and blue – something we’d barely consider, even for a Coronation.

It speaks not just to patriotism, but to the way Americans inhabit their outdoor spaces. You expect to linger on the porch, seat 20 for a backyard dinner, or host pool parties. We expect rain to stop play. Our time in the garden is usually fleeting; our gardens are spaces to be admired through rain-flecked windows rather than treated as another room to be enjoyed and used.

The result? Your outdoor furniture and decor are confident in its starring role – bold stripes, earthy West Coast tones, crisp Hamptons blues, Miami pinks. Ours – pretty florals, subtle stripes, and plenty of teak and woven materials – has traditionally played a supporting role, complementing the one successful constant we could rely on: beautiful British blooms, reliably fed by rain.

Until this year’s unprecedented UK heatwaves. While not quite as intense as yours, they have nonetheless become our new normal, prompting a collective rethink of how we use, furnish, and decorate our outdoor spaces from now on.

All of which means – I predict – that there will be an enthusiastic explosion of new designs in outdoor furniture, upholstery, lighting, and decor in the UK. Some classic British brands you already know and love are already championing the English country garden in the US – think outdoor upholstery and decor in pretty florals from Morris & Co. These scalloped-edge parasols look as though they’ve been brought back from a Grand Tour of Europe, and muted British heritage colors straight from a Little Greene paint card. Dreamy.

My favorites, all with that straight-out-of-an-English-garden feel – and all available now in the US – are below. And you can bet your life there’s more coming your way, because we Brits love nothing more than making it in America.

The Edit: A Very British Summer

In the Queue

Next week on The Very British Edit, I'm diving into coastal decor, but not the cliché version. There won't be anchors, rope, or seashells on every surface. I'm much more interested in the kind of homes that feel coastal without trying too hard – light-filled, relaxed, and connected to the outdoors.

I think that's why this style has always resonated with me. I've lived in California, where 'California Casual' and 'Cali Wabi-Sabi' style homes spill effortlessly onto patios and gardens, and I've also spent time in Lymington on England's south coast. They're completely different places, but they share the same easy way of living. Doors are open whenever the weather allows, natural materials are everywhere, and nothing feels overly precious or overdecorated.

Coastal style has always been about creating a feeling rather than following a theme. Linen instead of anything too polished. Weathered wood over glossy finishes. Soft blues, sandy neutrals, and leafy greens that reflect the landscape rather than obvious beach motifs. It's a look that feels fresh in the middle of summer but is timeless enough to live with year-round.

I'll also be sharing the pieces I'd actually buy to recreate that atmosphere. Beautiful lighting, natural textures, furniture that feels collected over time, and decor that brings warmth without adding clutter. They work just as well in a city apartment as they do in a beach house.

What I love most about coastal interiors is how they force you to slow down – something many of us forget to do when caught up in the rat race. They feel welcoming, comfortable, and easy to live in – it's more about curating a lived-in home that feels calm than decorating around a seaside theme.

Next week's edit is all about coastal decorating that feels timeless rather than themed, with inspiration from both California and the Hampshire coast, plus the pieces I'm genuinely loving for bringing that relaxed, lived-in feeling home.

The Very British Edit is a shoppable guide to beautiful living with a distinctly British twist. From heritage patterns to timeless decor inspirations, each edition blends personal insight, design expertise, and a love of craftsmanship. It is stylish, trustworthy, and endlessly inspiring.

Roses are renowned for their fragrance, color and versatility in the garden. Whether you have a spectacular climbing rose, a large shrub rose or a miniature rose in a small pot, it's impossible not to fall in love with these romantic and timeless flowers.

But they’ll only look their best if you keep on top of rose care, especially during the hot summer months when they're susceptible to wilting. That's why understanding how to water your plants is crucial for long-lasting, prolific blooms. It's especially important to adjust your watering routine during scorching weather to prevent heat stress (picking up this soil moisture meter from Amazon will help you monitor it more easily).

Here, gardening and rose experts reveal how best to water your rose plants in the backyard, ensuring your prize blooms don't just survive the summer heatwaves, but thrive through them.

When to Water Roses

Knowing when to water plants might seem inconsequential, but timing is everything when trying to protect roses from extreme heat.

'Watering is vital for roses to thrive,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'The best time of day to water your roses is in the early morning. This ensures the plant can absorb moisture before the sun hits its peak, giving it the hydration it needs to survive scorching summer days.'

While sticking to a rigid weekly schedule works perfectly during the mild spring months, summer heatwaves call for more frequent watering based on how quickly the soil is drying out.

'Newly planted roses need to be watered more than established roses, particularly if they are planted in late spring or early summer,' Katie says.

'I would recommend watering newly planted roses every 2 to 3 days depending on the weather,' Katie adds. 'Once roses are established, they can be watered once or twice a week, as necessary depending on the temperature.'

Using a soil moisture meter (which you can also find at Walmart), you should check daily during hot spells to see whether the top two inches of soil have dried out.

During extreme heatwaves, this could mean deeply watering established roses 3 to 4 times a week, and container-grown roses daily (they dry out much more quickly than those planted in the ground).

How to Water Roses

When it comes to how to water roses, precision is important. You should always water at the base of the plant and avoid splashing the foliage or flowers.

'It is best to water around the base of the plant, not on the foliage, which will help to prevent fungal disease and other rose pests, says Robin Jennings, rose expert and Manager of Strategic Partnerships at Heirloom Roses. 'I like to water in a circle around the base of the rose so it will stretch its roots out to reach for the water and build a large root system."

Keeping the leaves dry also reduces the risk of leaf scorch during intense afternoon sun. While a watering can with a long, narrow spout (like this one from Wayfair) or a targeted hose nozzle can work for individual plants, during a heatwave, slow and deep delivery is critical.

Something like this soaker hose from Amazon can provide effective hydration. Or, install this irrigation system kit from Amazon to make watering less effort.

During extreme heat, dried-out soil becomes hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. If you see puddling on hard dirt, don't stop watering. Instead, reduce the flow to a gentle trickle, or water in short bursts, allowing the soil time to soften up and actually absorb the moisture.

It's also a good idea to lock moisture in. After a deep watering, apply a 2-to-3-inch layer of organic mulch (like pine bark from Walmart or compost) around the base of the rose, keeping it a few inches away from the main stem to prevent rotting.

Watering Mistakes to Avoid

When protecting your roses from extreme heat, avoiding common watering mistakes is crucial.

As mentioned, you should avoid getting the foliage wet. Hot, humid summer air combined with wet leaves allows many rose diseases to thrive, like black spot and powdery mildew.

'A rose will let you know when it has had too much to drink through yellowing and drooping leaves,' Robin says.

However, during a scorching heatwave, underwatered and heat-stressed roses also have these symptoms.

If your rose leaves are yellowing, dropping, or wilting in July or August, do not automatically assume you are overwatering. Push your finger two inches into the soil – if it feels dry, your rose is starving for water.

Don't forget to also adjust watering based on whether it has rained. Just keep in mind that a passing summer shower often evaporates off the topsoil before reaching the roots. Always check the actual soil moisture rather than solely relying on the weather report.

'Roses also hate having wet feet, so make sure they are in well-draining soil,' Robin adds. 'If you have clay soil, for example, you can amend the soil to improve it and give your rose the best chance.'

Soil improvers can help to enhance the quality of your soil, as Robin says, so using something like this rose soil from Walmart is a good idea.

What to Shop

For more rose-growing advice, consider our guide on how to grow ground cover roses for low-growing varieties. Alternatively, see our advice on how to move a rose, providing you with all the information you need to lift and move rose plants successfully, or for shady yards, see our article on can roses grow in the shade.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Container plants that flower better in July are thankfully many and varied. With a little strategic planning, the color in your planters can continue uninterrupted throughout the hottest months of summer. In fact, you may even find that your containers are at their best and most vibrant.

I've chosen a winning group of my favorite annuals and perennials, each picked for their hot-season flower power and suitability for container growing. Lean in to these beauties, learn a little about how they thrive and you'll have all the later summer color you could ask for. It's all about knowing which plants soak up that scorching summer sun with the most enthusiasm.

When you're searching for container gardening ideas and tending pots of flowering plants, a little recap on plant care and feeding is well worth a look. To help, I've included a few surefire ways to keep that color coming and keep those heat lovers in tip-top condition.

1. Zinnias

In the A to Z of high-performing summer flowers, Zinnias should be given the top spot. This first thing to know about growing zinnias is they're some of the easiest annuals, and perfect for beginners. The jewelled shades of zinnia flowers are absolutely glorious – and with regular feeding (try this All Purpose Plant Food from The Home Depot) they flower their socks off from June to October, reaching their peak in July.

I love the rich jumble of colours you get from zinnia seed mixes, which creates borders and pots with a relaxed cottagey feel. Or opt for a more curated look by choosing just a couple of shades from the best zinnia varieties – rich wine red with zingy lime, for example – to deck your summer pots.

The blooms are either double, with large, elaborate forms, or single, which bring a more natural feel to the garden and also attract a huge number of beneficial pollinators. They'll reach somewhere between 1ft (30cm) for dwarf cultivars to 3ft (1m) for the taller ones. One more thing to love about zinnias: they're brilliant for cutting and bringing indoors, where they'll last well in a vase.

Being native to Mexico and southwestern US, it's more usual to grow zinnias as annuals in most regions as they won't survive temperatures below freezing.

My recommendation is this classic collection of zinnia colors from Walmart.

2. Mexican Daisy

Also known by its scientific name Erigeron karvinskianus, this gorgeous low-growing perennial will flower from May until the first frosts in November, pumping out a profusion of dainty pink and white daisy flowers on wiry, slender stems. Planted en masse it brings an unrivalled air of whimsy and cottage-garden delight.

I love it in a roomy pot or urn, several flowers to each container, where it erupts in a froth of flowers, providing a soft, cascading haze of pinky white that lasts for months, even during the hottest months of summer. It's one of the best low maintenance plants for pots too, enjoying poor, sharply drained soil and little in the way of irrigation.

An added bonus is its promiscuous nature. In a sunny spot, it will self-seed, popping up in between paving stones, in cracks in walls and all over a gravelled garden. It's one of the best self-seeding flowers you can find. Let these seedlings grow where they like or pot them up, grow them on and rehouse them somewhere else in your yard.

Hardiness: USDA 6-9

Treat yourself to this Barnacle Lucy Planter from Anthropologie – its subtle colors will suit erigeron down to the ground.

3. Pelargoniums

More commonly (mistakenly in fact) known as geraniums, these tender perennials are some of my go-to plants for colorful window boxes and planters. There are so many different varieties, colors and leaf types that you're bound to fall in love with at least one or two. Whether you prefer the classic bright reds and white that bring to mind cool Mediterranean alleyways, or something more unusual and sophisticated, perhaps in tones of plum, burgundy and cassis.

Either way, they're ideal for all kinds of pots and containers as they like it hot and they tolerate drought. Popped in the ground in late April, they'll flower from around May until the beginning of winter (I have some in a super-sheltered spot that carry on right through winter.)

Which is where we come to the hardiness part. Pelargoniums are technically tender perennials, so won't survive frosts, but I've had plants that have gone on for more than 10 years, tucked on a kitchen windowsill in a sheltered side return.

I cut them back in spring, then off they go again. If in doubt, a greenhouse or a cool spot indoors over winter is probably a safer bet when overwintering geraniums.

Hardiness: USDA zones 10-11.

You can buy Pelargonium plants at Walmart.

4. Salvias

The sage family contains hundreds of brilliant hot-weather performers, but it's the hardier, shrubbier types of salvias that really come into their own in July. These include Salvia microphylla, Salvia x jamensis , Salvia greggii and popular varieties such as Salvia 'Amistad'.

All have tubular lipped flowers on tall (or less tall), sometimes wiry spikes, which bees and other pollinators adore. They can reach anything from 1ft (30cm) to 6ft (2m) tall. They're natives of the Mediterranean and the Americas, so they need light, free-draining soil and as much sun as possible. Keep deadheading them and they'll flower well into fall, sometimes until the first frosts.

Some of my favourite salvias for late colour in pots are:

Salvia 'Amistad'
Dramatic royal purple flowers on a substantial plant to 4ft (1.2m) – brilliant in a large planter
Hardiness: USDA 8-11

Salvia 'Nachtvlinder'
Delicate wands of deep cherry-plum flowers and blackcurrant-scented foliage that's out of this world; to around 3ft (75cm)
Hardiness: USDA 7-10

Salvia microphylla 'Cerro Potosi'
Hot pink flowers with lovely aromatic evergreen foliage, and a statuesque 4ft (90cm) in height
Hardiness: USDA 8-10

Salvia 'Hot Lips'
Often evergreen and probably one of the most reliable long-flowering salvias you'll find, in stunning two-tone red and white
Hardiness: USDA 8-10

You can shop salvia plants at Burpee.

5. Marigolds

These pollinator magnet tender annuals are just perfect for filling in gaps in all kinds of containers, and they'll flower enthusiastically through the hottest of weather, needing little more than a good soak every other day when it's really hot out there. They're reliable, easy and colorful, so what's not to love?

My favourites for late-summer spectacle are compact French (Tagetes patula) and taller African marigolds (Tagetes erecta), whose bright yellow and gold tones are guaranteed crowd pleasers. If you want to know how to grow marigolds in pots, you'll need rich, free-draining potting compost and keep deadheading for flowers well into fall.

A self-watering planter like this Vivienne design from The Home Depot is a good find for marigolds.

Shop live marigold plants at Walmart.

6. Lantana

Well known for their heat tolerance and pollinator pulling power, lovely lantana is a must-have for a backyard with color in summer's hottest months. The flowers are a delicious combination of peachy yellow and raspberry pink, clusters above mounds of textured serrated leaves.

Lantana fall into two main categories: the upright shrub Lantana camara, and trailing groundcover palnt Lantana monevidensis. In terms of how to grow Lantana, they're often treated as annuals as they won't survive frosts, but of course you can overwinter them in a greenhouse.

All love a spot in full sun, in fertile, well-drained compost, where they're resilient and low maintenance yet full of color. A specialist medium like this Miracle-Grow Moisture Control Potting Mix from Target is a good starting point for Lantana in pots.

Try Lantana camara 'Miss Huff', a powerhouse of color in pink, peach and gold, to 3ft (90cm); or 'Dallas Red' for vibrant orange-red pompom flowers and exceptional heat tolerance.

You can buy 'Dallas Red' lantana at Walmart.

'Miss Huff' lantana is also available at Walmart.

7. Gaillardia

Gaillardia, also known as blanket flower, is one of the most drought-tolerant heat-loving perennials money can buy. It adores the summer heat, even when temperatures at above 90°F (30°C). It's a short-lived perennial, but don't let that put you off. You'll get more than enough bang for your buck with this little beauty.

In a pot gaillardia likes poor, sandy or even rocky soil, so don't save them your best compost. Give them a deep soak once or twice a week, always letting the compost dry out between watering. Apart from this, you'll need to know how to deadhead blanket flowers to keep those sunny red and yellow blooms coming. It'll grow to around 16in (40cm).

Hardiness: USDA 3-10

You can buy 'Mesa Yellow' blanket flower at Walmart.

8. Celosia

With its bright flame like flowerheads in red, orange and yellow, flickering up from exotic coloured foliage, celosia is fiery summer heat in plant form. No surprise then that this tropical annual thrives in hot weather, with each flower lasting up to 10 weeks (even longer if you cut them and bring them indoors).

I like to plant celosia in bold groups for the best, most striking effect. Whether that's in a pot or in the ground, it does need consistent water to stop those flame-like plumes wilting. It's one of the top tips for learning how to grow celosia.

Fun celosia fact: the blooms and leaves are edible. In Nigeria, the spinach-like leaves are often made into 'soko yokoto', which translates loosely as 'make husbands fat and happy'.

Hardiness: USDA 3-10

Go all-in with a red planter like this Gardener's Select Madison Planter from Target.

You can shop the range of Celosia plants at Burpee.

Looking for glorious planter displays at the height of summer, with uninterrupted flowers? Then I hope I've given you the inspiration to you need. You honestly can't fail with these top hot-weather picks.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

I'll admit, I never cared much for coffee. Until a few years ago, I could barely tolerate the smell, so I didn't think an espresso machine would become one of my favourite new kitchen appliances.

Living with a tiny kitchen meant my coffee-loving partner relied on a kettle and a moka pot for years. However, the arrival of the Ninja Luxe Café Mini Espresso Machine finally lets us upgrade without sacrificing precious counter space, and my first impressions have certainly been lasting ones.

This isn't a full review (I'm still putting it through its paces), but after spending a few days with the machine, I think it might be a contender for one of the best espresso machines out there. Here's what has stood out so far.

Having rarely tried to make espresso at home, when it first came to testing a full espresso machine, I was hesitant. They look complicated, and like too much work for the first thing in the morning.

However, the Ninja Luxe™ Café Mini really lives up to its claim of removing the guesswork from making coffee at home, whether you want espresso, drip, or over ice.

The machine comes with everything you need besides beans and water to get started, including a water hardness test kit, which allows you to program your appliance for custom descaling and cleaning warnings.

From there, it weighs your portafilter, decides the best grind size, grinds, and brews for you. The AutoFroth steamer wand even foams milk to the perfect thickness for everything from lattes to cappuccinos without manual intervention. It felt more like playing with a very well-crafted toy than work, so much so that I get excited making coffee for others, and am even tempted to try some myself (although I may be adding some syrups for that).

At 30% smaller than its predecessor, the Ninja Luxe Cafe Pro we reviewed last year, it has found an easy home on my counter. It tucks neatly into a corner of my small kitchen without getting in the way of my everyday organization and prep work. I am usually reluctant to give up space to appliances, given how little of it there is, but this has proven to be a worthy addition.

I simply cannot wait to show it off to friends and guests.

What Else to Shop

From beautifully hand-crafted coffee cups to stunning syrup bottles, these hand-picked coffee station essentials are perfect for elevating your home coffee routine to a café-quality ritual.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Not sure which setting is best for you? We have broken down the key differences between espresso and drip coffee to help you find the best brew.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

When you think of introducing marble to a kitchen, your mind automatically goes to the countertops. And while the look is undeniably classic, designers are using this luxury material somewhere else for a more unexpected and impactful look.

Instead, they're introducing marble around kitchen windows, replacing the classic wood trim for a more elevated detail. In some spaces, they match equally striking marble countertops, but in others, this material is added solely around the windows for a true statement feature.

And it's a design detail designers say you'll be seeing far more of this year and beyond. Here's why it's a kitchen trend you should consider adding to your cooking space, and why it's actually more timeless than you might expect.

Window trim is a feature often overlooked in the kitchen design process. It's not something you immediately think of customizing, or even making a statement out of. But that's exactly why this emerging detail is so striking.

'Using marble to frame kitchen windows and door frames creates instant architectural detail and a sense of permanence and polish. While wood feels warm, marble feels sculptural, tailored, and unexpected, and lends itself to various design styles,' says Erin Coren of Curated Nest.

It's also a material that feels right at home in a kitchen. 'We love the look of integrating window frames with a backsplash, which looks ultra custom and considered, giving a feeling of grand European elegance – always chic!'

It's easy to get hyper-focused on the functional elements of your kitchen, but introducing decorative details, like marble window trim, instantly elevates your scheme without impeding on the practical needs of the space.

'I’ll almost always choose marble over wood in a spot like this, if I am given the opportunity. It just adds something special and instantly makes the whole space feel more elevated,' explains Anissa Zajac, Founder of House Seven Design.

'It turns what could have been a background detail into a real focal point. I love the texture and character that natural stone brings, and it is one of those choices that can completely change the feel of a room. Never underestimate what marble can do for a design.'

While you could add marble trim to any of the windows in your home, there's no denying that it feels most impactful in a kitchen, not just because the material usually already exists here, but because its architectural and functional impact is greater in a more utilitarian room.

'Stone is already a major material in most kitchens, so extending it to window or door frames creates a really cohesive look. It also ages beautifully, adding character while standing up well to the demands of a hardworking space,' says interior designer Zoe Feldman.

'It holds up beautifully to everyday life, and I never have to worry about the wear and tear the way I would with wood. It’s one of those details that not only lasts but makes the whole kitchen feel more thoughtful and elevated,' Anissa adds.

The key to the look's success is the marble that you choose. It needs to feel cohesive with the rest of your design, so looking to your existing palette is the best place to start, particularly your kitchen countertops or backsplash.

'Choose a marble that relates to the countertop, backsplash, flooring, or hardware palette so it feels intentional. A timeless stone like Calacatta or Arabescato will always feel chic, and the neutral tones offer flexibility for future renovations or re-styling. Paired with warm cabinetry, unlacquered brass, plaster walls, or soft natural textures, it feels elevated and timeless,' Erin suggests.

Consider what type of stone best appeals to your style – you want your marble window trim to feel as timeless and elegant in a decade as it does today. 'I’m such a believer in choosing finishes that feel true to you. The ones that make you stop and smile every time you see them and have you counting down the days until they’re installed,' adds Anissa.

'If you’re genuinely excited to see a stone or finish go into your home, then you’ve probably chosen something that really reflects who you are. Those are the kinds of decisions you’ll love for years because they were never about trends, they were about what you truly love.'

The smallest details are often the most impactful, and while elevating your window trim from wood to marble might not have crossed your mind before, take this as your sign to think more about the architectural details of your kitchen.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

July is when gardens are at peak performance, but it's also when even the most well-intentioned gardeners are most likely to make mistakes. After months of planting, pruning and tending, it's tempting to keep pushing the garden forward. But midsummer isn't spring, and trying to garden as though it is can put unnecessary stress on plants already coping with heat, intense sun and inconsistent rainfall.

July is less about encouraging fresh growth and more about helping plants conserve energy, stay hydrated and ride out the toughest part of the growing season. Some jobs are simply better postponed until cooler weather returns.

We asked four landscape professionals which garden chores they deliberately avoid in July, along with the handful of maintenance tasks that are a must. If you are wondering what to plant in July our experts’ answers revealed a clear pattern: when temperatures soar, doing less is often the smartest thing you can do for your garden and yourself.

Don't Plant Trees, Shrubs or Perennials

Our garden experts agreed on point: Avoid planting trees, shrubs and most perennials during July whenever possible.

‘The soil is just too hot, and the soil dries out too quickly for the plants to establish themselves,’ says Jennifer Rust, founder of Jennifer Rust Botanicals in Marietta, Georgia. ‘Early spring and late fall are always our preferred times to transplant.’

Jennifer Brennan, a Chicagoland horticultural consultant, agrees. ‘Delay transplanting shrubs and perennials and dividing perennials during the heat of July,’ she says. ‘Removing roots during transplanting is stressful enough for plants; adding the heat of July causes life-threatening stress to plants considering that most plants will not perform any metabolic processes when the temperatures are 85F or higher.’

That advice extends to replacing plants that don't survive the heat.

‘If something dies, don't feel like you have to replace it immediately,’ says Tucker Tremblay, founder and principal designer of Joyner Concepts in Central Texas.

‘A brand-new root system trying to establish itself during the hottest month of the year is an uphill battle. If the landscape allows for it, I'd much rather wait until fall.’

If You’re Going to Plant, Sow These

As our experts have mentioned, July isn’t the best time to plant. But Barnes says if you must, sowing seeds of annuals such as zinnias and sunflowers in early July is allowable.

This gets a new crop of those summery plants ready to fill in empty spaces by mid-August.

‘I would recommend sowing those seeds in pots or trays, where they can get a half day of shade, maybe a little bit of automatic irrigation or even just a little sprinkler,’ Barnes suggests.

‘That's one of the things I love having, an automatic sprinkler set to go off for 10 to 15 minutes just to keep the seeds cool.’ The Orbit 1 Output Port Stationary Digital Hose End Timer available at Lowe’s lets you keep your seedlings cool and moist.

Resist The Urge To 'Improve' Your Plants

When plants begin looking a little tired, it's natural to reach for the pruners or fertilizer. But both can do more harm than good in midsummer.

‘The biggest mindset shift to focus on is this: July isn't the month to make plants grow,’ says Tremblay. ‘It's the month to help them survive. Hold off on major pruning. Pruning sends a signal to a plant to push new growth. That's exactly what you don't want when it's 105F degrees outside.’

He offers the same advice for feeding plants. July is the month to reduce stress, and new growth does just that.

‘The same goes for heavy nitrogen fertilizer,’ he says. ‘In July, I'm trying to reduce stress, not encourage growth.’

Garden educator and consultant Jared Barnes echoes that recommendation for established landscape plants. ‘If you're starting to go through a dry period and it's really hot outside, I wouldn't recommend fertilizing anything at this point in time,’ he says.

Container plants, however, are another story. ‘Containers might be the only thing to keep some fertility on,’ Barnes says, ‘because as you irrigate more with the increased heat, you're leaching out a lot of those nutrients out of the pot.’

Rust has seen the same thing happen, even in in-ground plantings.

‘We can't stress enough the benefit of a bloom boost granular fertilizer dissolved in a watering can for your containers every 1-2 weeks,’ she says.

‘All the rain leaches out the nutrients in container planters but also in in-ground blooming plants, as well.’ Ace Hardware offers a Bloom Booster Flower Food from Miracle Gro to keep the flowers going.

Water Smarter, Not More

While many July chores can wait, watering deserves extra attention. Rather than automatically increasing irrigation, Tremblay recommends making sure your watering system is working properly first.

‘Don't immediately assume brown grass needs more water,’ he says. ‘Sometimes that's the right answer, but often it isn't.’

Instead, he advises, ‘walk every zone, check every spray head, look for clogged nozzles, pressure issues, and dry spots.’

Brennan recommends taking the guesswork out of watering altogether. ‘Get a rain gauge and monitor the amount of rainfall at your property,’ she says. A simple rain gauge such as the La Crosse Large Easy to Read Rain Gauge available at Walmart. She also recommends using her ‘4 Quadrant/Count to 5’ watering technique to ensure water reaches the entire root zone.

Rust says containers deserve especially close attention during rainy periods.

‘Irrigation systems tend to turn off during heavy rain periods,’ Rust says. ‘For plants under cover it is really important to ensure they are still hand watered as they are still getting the heat but not the benefit of the summer rains.’

Barnes prefers slow, deep watering over frequent sprinkling.

‘If you're going through a prolonged dry spell, it might not hurt to go out there and just run a sprinkler for a short period of time,’ he says. For shrubs and trees, he simply turns the hose on ‘a slow trickle’ and lets it soak into the root zone.

A 100-ft. soaker hose such as Swan SoakerPro System from Home Depot allows you to gently irrigate multiple trees and shrubs at a time.

He also reminds gardeners not to overlook trees and shrubs that were planted in the spring, which may not show drought stress until it's almost too late.

Let July Be a Guide

Instead of treating July as another month of chores, our experts see it as one of the best times to evaluate a landscape.

Barnes encourages gardeners to pay attention to plants that struggle every summer.

‘Are there plants in your garden that continually show signs of wilt year-in, year-out?’ he asks. ‘Maybe there's something native you can plant there instead.’

He also recommends resisting the urge to cut down every spent flower.

‘I would not cut them all back,’ he says of seed heads on plants such as coneflowers and black-eyed Susans. ‘There’s the winter interest, and you have the ecological interest from the birds.’

Tremblay says extreme weather reveals the strengths and weaknesses of every landscape. ‘One of my favorite July tasks is simply walking properties and observing,’ he says. ‘Extreme weather exposes weaknesses better than any other time of year.’

In fact, he says, that's when the best design lessons emerge.

‘April is forgiving. July tells the truth. If a landscape still looks good after a Central Texas July, you've probably made good decisions.’

What to Shop

For Rust, July should also include one final task that many gardeners overlook. ‘Pour yourself a glass of iced tea and enjoy your beautiful work.’

Sit back and assess your yard from the comfort of your garden patio. This July respite lets you see the possibilities of adding a water feature, a kitchen garden, or leaving well enough alone and enjoying another cool drink.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Meet Our Experts

There is a curious contradiction at the heart of interior design.

We spend years creating homes that are intended to last for decades, yet we consume design through an endless cycle of interior design trends that refresh every few months. One season we're told that curved furniture is the future; the next it's chrome, then burgundy, then butter yellow. The algorithms move quickly. Homes, thankfully, do not.

As designers, we're often asked whether something is 'on trend.' It's a question I've never been particularly comfortable answering, because the implication is that our homes should somehow keep pace with fashion. But a home isn't a seasonal wardrobe. It should become richer with time, not feel outdated because a color has fallen out of favor on social media.

I often say that I don't design around trends – I design around longevity. That doesn't mean a home should feel traditional or predictable. Quite the opposite. The most memorable interiors often feel incredibly current when they're completed, but years later they remain just as compelling because they were never chasing a particular moment to begin with.

Timelessness is frequently misunderstood. People imagine it means safe. Beige. Minimal. Perhaps even a little boring. Timelessness has very little to do with aesthetic style and everything to do with intention.

A timeless room isn't defined by the color on the walls or whether the sofa has rounded edges. It's created through proportion, quality, materials, craftsmanship and the emotional response a space evokes. Those things don't age because they were never dependent on fashion.

Think about the houses we continue to admire over decades – or even centuries – after they were built. We aren't drawn to them because they reflected the trends of their era. We admire them because they possess qualities that transcend them – beautiful light, generous proportions, natural materials, thoughtful detailing, and an authenticity that can't be manufactured. Those principles haven't changed, even if our Pinterest boards have.

When I begin designing a project, I rarely start by thinking about colors or furniture. I think about architecture first.

How does the light move through the home? How will someone experience the space throughout the day? What should feel calm? Where should there be intimacy? Which materials will improve rather than deteriorate with age?

These questions have far greater influence over the success of a home than whether travertine or walnut happen to be enjoying a resurgence.

Natural materials are perhaps the greatest lesson in timeless design. Stone develops character. Timber acquires patina. Linen softens with use. Brass wears in rather than wearing out. Their imperfections become part of the story of a home rather than flaws to disguise.

Contrast that with materials that rely on perfection. High gloss surfaces show every scratch. Synthetic finishes often look the same on day one as they do on day one thousand – except they're simply more damaged. They rarely become more beautiful.

I've always believed that a well-designed home should age in the same way people do – with character rather than perfection. That's one of the reasons I find trend cycles so fascinating. They encourage us to think that design is disposable, when the reality is that good interiors become more personal over time.

The homes I love most are never completely finished. They accumulate books collected on travels, antique vessels discovered at flea markets, artwork that wasn't purchased all at once, furniture inherited from family, objects with stories attached to them.

None of these acquisitions were made because they were trending. They were chosen because they meant something. Ironically, these are often the homes that end up feeling the most individual.

Of course, that isn't to say trends have no value. Trends can be incredibly useful. They reveal shifts in culture, new technologies, evolving lifestyles, and changing tastes. They introduce us to materials or crafts we may never have considered otherwise. The problem arises when we mistake a trend for an identity.

Instead of asking, 'Is this fashionable?' I think the better question is, 'Will I still love living with this in 10 years?' and this is the question I ask myself repeatedly throughout the design process. If the answer is "yes," then it doesn't matter whether it happens to be fashionable today.

Some of the strongest interiors quietly acknowledge trends without being defined by them. A contemporary silhouette might sit beside a centuries-old dining table. A modern light fitting may hang above reclaimed oak flooring. There is conversation between past and present rather than complete allegiance to one moment in time. That balance creates homes with depth.

Designing for longevity is, in many ways, the most sustainable decision we can make.

If a kitchen remains beautiful 25 years after it was installed, it is infinitely more sustainable than replacing it every seven years because tastes have shifted. If upholstery improves with age instead of requiring replacement, we reduce waste without sacrificing beauty.

Perhaps that's why I've never believed that timelessness means resisting change. Homes should evolve alongside the people who inhabit them. Layers are added, furniture moves, artwork changes, collections grow. Evolution is healthy.

But the foundation should remain strong enough that these changes feel like chapters in a story rather than complete rewrites.

When clients ask me what makes a home timeless, my answer is always surprisingly simple. Choose materials that improve with age. Prioritise proportion over decoration. Buy fewer things but buy them well. Collect rather than consume. And create spaces that reflect your life instead of someone else's algorithm.

Because trends inevitably come full circle. A home designed with authenticity never has to.

Interior designer Katie Harbison is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, where she shares her thoughts on decor. See the rest of her articles here.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Rhubarb season is relatively short, at around 8-10 weeks, and the window for picking is winding down. You need to know when to stop picking rhubarb each year to have strong crops next year. And that cutoff should be to stop in early July.

You can theoretically harvest rhubarb throughout the growing season. This is not advisable, though, as the plants need some time to recover from harvesting and replenish their energy reserves for the following year.

When you grow rhubarb, the end of June or early July is usually the end of the picking season. There may be time for one more harvest if you act quickly, but don’t push your luck and keep picking well into summer.

I used to work in the walled garden at a large, historic public garden. We harvested some rhubarb for the on-site café, but the vast majority of the stalks were sold to the public on a donation stall in the garden. There was a lot of rhubarb in this vegetable garden, and the stalks sold like hot cakes.

Year after year, I had to tell our enthusiastic volunteers when to stop harvesting rhubarb. It made sense to keep picking as long as stalks were available. But the risk of continuing harvesting for too long outweighed the benefits of making some extra cash.

In truth, my head gardener always wanted the picking to stop at the end of June, but we may have pushed it an extra week or 10 days into July.

When to Stop Picking Rhubarb

Knowing how to harvest rhubarb means you have the technique to pick flavorful stems without damaging your plants, but carrying on picking too long will affect the long-term health of your clumps.

While you do need to wait a few years after planting rhubarb to get a crop (you can get a live Rhubarb 'Victoria' plant at Plant Addicts), the temptation may be to pick as many stems for as long as possible in future years. That is a rhubarb growing mistake to avoid, or your plants won’t have the lifespan they may otherwise.

If cared for correctly, rhubarb plants can be productive for decades. And a key part of proper maintenance is understanding when to stop picking rhubarb.

The last harvests should be in early July. The window should last 8-10 weeks in late spring and early summer, when you can pick lots of stalks. However, stopping picking in early July gives plants lots of time to replenish their energy for the future.

Your rhubarb can spend the rest of summer photosynthesizing and building up energy supplies in its roots. This guarantees the plant has the reserves needed to burst into growth again next spring.

If you continued harvesting into summer, the stalks would get thinner as the plant lacked the energy to produce thick, flavorful stems. And you certainly wouldn’t get a good crop of stems to pick next year.

The sight of thin, spindly stalks on your plants is definitely a sign you need to stop picking if you haven’t already. A weakened rhubarb plant won’t have the energy to keep providing you with stems for years to come.

Rhubarb needs lots of nutrients to produce the large stalks and leaves. To ensure your plants have the essential nutrients they need, stop picking in early summer to store energy and fertilize with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like this tomato and vegetable fertilizer at Burpee) in fall and a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in spring.

For the best long-term harvests, it is also important to divide rhubarb plants every five years. The clumps get congested over the years, and produce weaker, thinner stems as a result. Lifting and dividing them reinvigorates the clumps and gives you new ones to add to the garden.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Creating a tropical garden in the middle of a city is an act of magnificent defiance; a lush, leafy retreat that feels like your own private island in a sea of concrete. With the right mix of bold foliage, vertical layers, and container-friendly plants, even the smallest courtyard or patio can feel like a far-flung jungle retreat. The secret is choosing plants that deliver maximum impact without demanding acres of space.

The tropical look is all about scale, texture, and abundance. Large leaves, architectural silhouettes, and dense planting create the illusion of a much larger landscape, while careful layering makes a small garden feel immersive and enveloping.

I’ve always been drawn to gardens that make you forget where you are. Even on the grayest morning, a handful of dramatic leaves can transport you elsewhere. And with these seven plants, you'll get the look and feel of a tropical retreat in a small space.

What Makes A Small Space Feel Tropical?

The aim is not necessarily to fill your yard with genuinely tropical species. Instead, it is about creating the impression of the tropics through oversized foliage, contrasting textures, and layered planting. Garden designers often use a canopy layer, a middle layer, and a lush underplanting layer to create depth and enclosure.

In a small urban space, every plant has to earn its keep. I always look for specimens that provide year-round structure, dramatic leaves, or exceptional height without spreading aggressively.

A simple trick is to follow a restrained palette. Rather than collecting one of everything, repeat a few key plants throughout the space. This creates cohesion and helps a compact yard feel professionally designed.

1. Windmill Palm (Trachycarpus fortunei)

If tropical gardens have a leading actor, this is it. The windmill palm delivers instant vacation energy while remaining remarkably hardy. Suitable for USDA zones 7-11, it can withstand surprisingly cold winters and remains one of the easiest palms for temperate climates.

For small spaces, choose a younger specimen and grow it in a substantial container. The upright trunk takes up very little ground space while the fan-shaped canopy creates height and drama overhead.

I’ve used windmill palms in narrow courtyards where they transformed the atmosphere almost overnight. One palm is often enough. Any more and the space starts to resemble an enthusiastic but misguided airport lounge.

For containers, a large concrete planter such as a this from Amazon works beautifully and enhances the Mediterranean-meets-tropical aesthetic.

2. Hardy Banana (Musa basjoo)

Does anything else say tropical quite like a banana?

The enormous paddle-shaped leaves immediately create a jungle feel, even though Musa basjoo is surprisingly resilient in temperate regions. Gardeners across zones 6-10 successfully grow it with winter protection.

What makes bananas particularly useful in small backyards is their speed. A small plant can become a dramatic focal point within a single growing season.

Position one banana at the rear of a border or in a large container and let it act as your canopy layer. The leaves may shred in strong winds, but honestly, a slightly tattered banana often looks more authentic, as though it has just returned from a monsoon rather than a suburban patio.

If you are growing in containers, a moisture control organic potting mix from Lowe’s can help maintain the consistently damp conditions bananas enjoy.

3. Taro (Colocasia esculenta)

Every tropical oasis needs a touch of extravagance. Taro delivers precisely that. Its giant heart-shaped leaves can reach astonishing proportions and instantly soften hard urban surfaces.

In zones 8-11, plants can often remain outdoors year-round. Elsewhere, they’re excellent container specimens that can be overwintered under cover.

I find that one strategically placed Colocasia often has more impact than half a dozen flowering plants. The leaves catch the light, cast dramatic shadows, and create that immersive atmosphere associated with tropical landscapes.

Pair them with dark containers such as this one from Amazon to emphasize the lush green foliage, and tuck smaller plants beneath for a layered effect reminiscent of the best tropical plants design approach.

4. Japanese Aralia (Fatsia japonica)

If you’re gardening in a cooler climate and want tropical looks without tropical tantrums, Fatsia japonica is your answer.

Its glossy, deeply lobed leaves look as though they’ve been borrowed from a rainforest, yet the plant is remarkably tolerant of shade and lower temperatures. It is also perfectly suited to city gardens where sunlight can be limited by surrounding buildings.

I often recommend fatsia because it provides structure throughout the year. While many tropical-style plants disappear in winter, fatsia keeps performing.

Plant it in a handsome black container and surround it with trailing ferns for a quietly dramatic look. For a good selection of live plants, seek out a wide variety of Fatsia cultivars available from Amazon.

5. Bird Of Paradise (Strelitzia reginae)

There are plants that look tropical, and then there are plants that practically wear sunglasses. Bird of paradise falls firmly into the second category.

The upright foliage is elegant enough on its own, but the extraordinary orange and blue flowers elevate it to something genuinely exotic. It thrives in containers, making it ideal for patios, roof terraces and even as exotic houseplants.

In cooler zones, simply move containers indoors before winter. A decorative terracotta planter from Ace Hardware complements its Mediterranean-tropical character perfectly.

Recent celebrity garden designs have showcased bird of paradise as a key ingredient in creating resort-style outdoor spaces, and it’s easy to see why. The plant delivers architectural form without overwhelming a compact setting.

6. Shell Ginger (Alpinia zerumbet)

For gardeners seeking something a little different, shell ginger offers elegance and lushness in equal measure.

The arching stems and broad foliage create a softer, more layered look than many tropical plants. In warm climates it can become quite substantial, while container-grown specimens remain manageable for smaller spaces.

The variegated forms are especially beautiful, introducing flashes of cream and gold that brighten shady corners. Pair it with a decorative urn planter from Amazon for a spectacularly architectural display.

I first encountered shell ginger in a courtyard no larger than a parking space. Somehow the planting made the entire area feel like a boutique hotel hidden down a side street. Good gardening often relies on illusion, and shell ginger is a master magician.

7. Tree Fern (Dicksonia antarctica)

No plant creates atmosphere quite like a tree fern. The unfurling fronds bring movement, texture, and a sense of age that few other tropical-style plants can match. While often associated with larger gardens, young specimens are surprisingly effective in small urban settings.

Place one where it can be appreciated up close. The intricate fronds deserve inspection, much like a fine painting or an exceptionally complicated tax return.

Tree ferns prefer shade and consistent moisture, making them particularly useful in enclosed city courtyards.

Underplant with ferns in pots and shade-loving foliage plants to create a layered woodland-jungle effect. This follows the same vertical planting principles often used in compact tropical designs.

What to Shop

The biggest mistake people make when creating a tropical garden is treating it like a collection of individual specimens. Tropical gardens succeed because of density. Layer palms above bananas, bananas above fatsias, and fatsias above ferns. Allow leaves to overlap. Let the planting feel slightly exuberant.

In small spaces, containers become invaluable. They allow you to experiment with tender species, create different heights, and move plants as conditions change through the seasons.

Add a simple water bowl, a weathered terracotta pot, or a dark metal lantern, and suddenly your city courtyard feels a long way from traffic, deadlines, and reality. Which, after all, is one of the great purposes of gardening. Not merely to grow plants, but to create places that transport us somewhere else entirely.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Few interior trends have had as lasting an impact as farmhouse decor. White-washed walls, reclaimed wood, shiplap, and modern black hardware are hallmarks of this aesthetic that soon became the go-to in modern American homes as social media trends gained momentum.

But trends come and go, and as the design world welcomes a return to more experimental interiors that are less about fitting into a distinct trend box and more about reflecting personality, farmhouse white is starting to feel tired and predictable.

Instead, designers are using soft and subtly warming colors as the backdrop of a room, offering a more expressive look that generally feels more interesting than white. Here, designers discuss why we're moving away from farmhouse style to these quietly confident color trends, and how to decorate with them.

The Rise and Decline of Farmhouse White

The rise of farmhouse white has been significant for good reason; it originally gave homeowners a fresh start against the colorful palettes of decades prior. 'Farmhouse white emerged as a reaction to the heavy Tuscan interiors of the 1980s and 1990s, offering a fresh, bright backdrop that photographed beautifully in the age of Pinterest and Instagram,' says designer Kim Mauney, based in Charlotte, North Carolina.

'Farmhouse white felt fresh, clean, and timeless, and during the rise of modern farmhouse style in the 2010s, that was exactly what homeowners wanted,' adds Dunn-Edwards' color marketing manager, Lauren Hoferkamp. 'White gave them bright, open rooms and a versatile backdrop that worked with almost any furnishings, making it equally appealing to builders and home buyers.'

It's not just inside the home where farmhouse white dominated, but for exterior paint ideas, too. 'White siding with black trim and black accents became one of the most recognizable images in residential design: high-contrast, modern yet familiar, and irresistibly photogenic,' Lauren says. 'Home renovation television, Pinterest, Instagram, and new-construction developments carried it everywhere, until a clean backdrop became the look every home seemed to want.'

And while decorating with white will always have a level of timelessness to it, the white-washed rooms with wood tones and very little color may be starting to tire. The design world is once again welcoming a bolder approach to color and palettes that rebel against the formulaic social media-inspired aesthetic with something more unique and unexpected.

Why Homeowners Are Moving On

'After more than a decade of white interiors and white-and-black exteriors filling every feed and subdivision, the look simply became predictable,' Lauren explains. 'White did its most important work during the pandemic, when people spent more time at home than ever and wanted spaces that felt calm, orderly, and full of light. But the very thing that made white reassuring during uncertain times, its neutrality, is what makes it feel flat once life settles down. A room with nothing to say starts to feel sterile rather than serene.'

Today, we're seeing a return to authentic, lived-in homes that turn to bolder room color ideas, reflective of the homeowners' personality. 'Homeowners now want rooms that feel personal rather than borrowed from a formula, spaces with warmth, character, and the sense of having been collected over time,' says Lauren. 'The trend cycle is doing what it always does, swinging back from minimalism toward layered interiors, natural materials, and saturated, mood-driven color.'

Rooms that make a statement and feel full of personality are rarely painted white; they embrace more adventurous colors that tell a story. What's more, contrast and tension are important to rooms that feel truly interesting and memorable, which can be tricky to achieve with white.

'Today, we're seeing a return to warmer colors and layered interiors, with creams, olives, mushrooms, and burgundies creating a richer backdrop for antiques, texture, and collected pieces,' says Kim. 'Many of these are colors our grandparents used, but we're pairing them with modern art, cleaner silhouettes, and a lighter hand, making them feel entirely new again.'

The Palettes Replacing Farmhouse White, and How Designers Are Using Them

The color palettes replacing farmhouse white aren't overly specific – many different colors add softness, depth, and warmth. That said, designers talk through some of their favorites below, from soft greens to dusky pinks.

And while these delicate colors feel like a more current alternative to farmhouse white, that's not to say white is disappearing altogether. White can still be incredibly effective, but it needs texture in interior design to stop it falling flat. 'The shift isn't really about abandoning white,' says Lauren. 'It's about warming it up. Warm whites, mushroom tones, taupes, and greiges keep a room bright while adding the nuance stark white lacks.'

Plaster Pinks

Soft pink paints are emerging as a more warming alternative to white, bringing depth and color while the dusky quality keeps rooms feeling grown-up and timeless. This color palette was chosen for this historic home, where it complements its aged quality.

'Rather than the conventional flat white, we wanted a color that felt fresh without losing the building's bones,' explains the designer Sophie Goldhill of Hector Interiors. She chose Jonquil by Edward Bulmer (Farrow & Ball's Setting Plaster is a similar shade that's easier to source in the US), which she describes as 'a warm, yellow-leaning pink especially suited to hallways and period properties, sitting comfortably against the exposed beams and travertine floor rather than fighting them.'

Plaster pink paints like this one look modern when used with color-drenching, along with warm wood tones and natural textures to add depth.

Airy Blues

Pale blue paints feel on-trend and inherently calm, making them a good alternative to farmhouse white. This kitchen color scheme pairs light blue cabinets with wood tones and warm metals, which ensures this cool-toned hue feels welcoming and cozy.

'For this kitchen, we wanted something that still felt fresh, airy, and timeless, but with more depth and personality than a traditional all-white kitchen,' explains designer Sara Malek Barney of BANDD/DESIGN, based between Los Angeles and Austin. 'This soft blue-gray was the perfect alternative because it almost behaves like a neutral. It has enough gray in it to feel sophisticated and grounded, but enough blue to bring warmth, charm, and a sense of character to the space.'

Although soft blue paints like this one are fairly forgiving, adding contrast to the space takes it up a level. 'The wood adds warmth, and the lighter materials keep everything from feeling too heavy,' Sara explains. 'We also brought in warmer metal finishes and a vintage-style rug to tie the palette together and make the kitchen feel less new build and more lived-in and collected.'

Muted Greens

Green is nature's neutral, which makes it incredibly liveable. From kitchens to bedrooms, light green paints bring a relaxed feel to rooms while adding much more warmth than white. If you're new to decorating with color, look to green paints that are quiet rather than anything too saturated, such as Benjamin Moore's Thornton Sage, which was used here.

'For this space, I used a Cowtan & Tout fabric on the bed, which served as the starting point for the room's color palette,' explains the Georgia-based designer Lauren Robbins. To keep things cohesive and calm, Lauren repeated this soft green hue across other elements. 'I pulled the lightest shade of green from that fabric and color-matched the walls, washing them in Thornton Sage, then layered in additional greens and neutrals from there,' she explains.

'Because this color is so subtle, it acts as a neutral, setting a mood of serenity and calm while adding visual interest and offering more depth than a true white,' says Lauren.

Earthy Neutrals

A move away from farmhouse white doesn't have to be colorful – a revised take on neutrals can add plenty more depth to a room. This kitchen feels richly layered with the palette of earth tones – most notably the cabinets painted with Benjamin Moore's Stone Hearth, a soft stone color.

'We love a kitchen that feels classic but doesn't lack for coziness,' says designer Melissa Oholendt from design studio Oho Interiors, based in Minnesota and Colorado. 'A great greige color is the secret to that, and Stone Hearth is one you will see repeated in different applications in our projects because it's not white, but still maintains a lightness while feeling cozy. It also gives us a lot of bandwidth to adjust the design and make it feel entirely different.'

Texture and materials are key when decorating with earth tones. Take inspiration from this kitchen and add interest with natural wood, warm brass details, and textured stone – it's what gives a room that layered feeling.

Soft Gray-Greens

Gray-toned greens are another stylish shift from predictable whites, especially effective if you're looking for just a subtle hint of color rather than anything too bold. 'We chose to paint this primary bedroom in Farrow & Ball’s French Gray, which is a warm gray with subtle green undertones,' explains Mira Eng-Goetz, lead designer at Portland and Paris-based Jessica Helgerson Interior Design.

'There’s a tendency to choose a shade of farmhouse white when we’re aiming to create a space that is soothing and light-filled,' Mira adds. 'Soft, complex neutrals on the lighter end can achieve the same effect while adding some character and depth to a room.'

By extending the same paint color to the woodwork and trim, this room feels modern and more relaxed than it would if a white paint were used for these details.

Think of this shift as less about the colors themselves, and more about the way we decorate our homes. The decline of farmhouse white isn't saying that white is out – it represents a return to personality-led interiors that feel soulful and dynamic, rather than Instagram-ready homes that can feel overly predictable and lacking in depth.

It's widely known that hummingbirds need support at key times, such as spring and fall when they're migrating. However, July is an important time for them too.

It's obviously hot and dry in many states, but that's not the only reason these acrobatic avians need a little extra help. Many hummingbirds are still nesting, and their young will be fledging.

If you've been attracting hummingbirds to your yard, there are some small actions you can take that will have a huge impact on the survival of this generation – and the next. Here's what hummingbirds need in July, according to avian experts (picking up a hummingbird feeder from Amazon is a good place to start.)

6 Ways To Support Hummingbirds In Peak Summer

'July is a key time for hummingbirds (and enthusiasts) because young hummingbirds are fledging from the nest and visiting feeders, many for the first time,' explains Julie Zickerfoose, author and advising editor, BWD Magazine.

'Some fledglings literally have no idea what they are supposed to do. And aggression from older, more experienced hummingbirds is at a peak.'

1. Cluster Feeders Together

The usual recommendation on where to place hummingbird feeders is to spread them around your yard to prevent aggression and territorial behaviour. However, Julie recommends rearranging feeders so they're closer together – and using those with multiple ports.

'It's counter-intuitive, but instead of placing feeders all over the yard widely separated, to reduce aggression, what works best is to gang the feeders together,' says Julie.

'Choose large feeders with lots of ports and space them a few inches apart from each other. When there are lots of ports on one feeder, there are more chances for multiple birds to feed together.

'One aggressive male hummingbird can't possibly defend them all. When feeders are clustered close together, the fighting virtually stops.'

This Perky Pet Hummingbird Feeder from Ace Hardware has six feeding ports. Grouping several of these together, should increase access and safety for fledglings and youngsters.

2. Don't Fill Large Feeders To The Brim

It's vital to keep hummingbird feeders clean, but especially so during the height of the summer. One way to prevent nectar solution from spoiling is to monitor your feeders and top them up several times a week.

'It's important, when using large feeders, not to fill them to capacity unless you have a real crowd,' says Julie. 'Just put in as much nectar as the birds will finish in a day or two. You'll figure out how much that is by trial and error.

'The worst thing you can do is fill a feeder and forget about it for a week or more. In summer's heat and humidity, molds and yeasts will form very quickly, souring the solution and causing a risk to the birds. Cleanliness is paramount.'

When the feeder is almost empty, take it down and wash it thoroughly in hot, soapy water. This Dr Bronner soap from Ace Hardware is concentrated with no synthetic detergents, so you only need a tiny amount, and it's biodegradable. Rinse thoroughly, and refill with your nectar solution.

3. Avoid Cutting Shrubs

Gardening for wildlife can sometimes be at odds with traditional habits for keeping everything neatly clipped. If you can resist the urge to tidy shrubbery, it can benefit hummingbirds hugely.

'It's important to not hack down your shrubs at this time,' cautions Erika Zambello, Communications Director, Audubon. 'Hummingbirds often use them for nesting or for shelter, especially in hot weather.'

Native shrubs like this Viburnum from Plant Addicts make popular hummingbird nesting sites and provide these tiny birds refuge from the heat.

4. Plant For A Continual Bloom Cycle

If you know how to attract hummingbirds to your yard, you will have likely planted for a continual bloom cycle that lasts from spring through to fall. However, if you haven't, it's not too late to add more colorful container plants, to boost the blooms hummers feed on.

'Planting native plant varieties that bloom consistently in July is highly beneficial to hummers,' says Erica. 'If you’re in USDA hardiness zones 8-11 (the Southwest up through coastal Oregon, the Gulf Coast, and the Southeast up through North Carolina) planting firebush will offer a great July bloom that will satiate hungry hummingbirds.'

Erica tells us that her colleagues in Maine recommend Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa), for New England and the Midwest. 'It begins to bloom in July and is a favorite for hummers,' she says.

'They also recommend a number of native honeysuckles for June and July, and later in the season, Orange Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis) and Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis). If you don't already have these plants in your garden, they can be grown in containers.'

This potted Black Truffle Cardinal Flower from Nature Hill's has showy red blooms that hummers love. It's best suited to those who receive plenty of rain as it loves moist soil.

For drier regions, this Lime Sizzler Firebush from Plant Addicts provides summer blooms. In colder zones it can be grown as an annual, or in pots and brought in before the frost hits.

5. Ensure Bird Baths Are Clean And Topped Up With Fresh Water

It's vital that bird baths are kept clean and regularly filled throughout the year. However, with many parts of the U.S experiencing drought, this ramps up in July (and August), particularly as tiny hummers prefer shallow bowls, where water will evaporate quickly.

'Throughout most of the United States, July can be hot,' says Erica. 'Placing a bird bath with water near to feeders and plants and changing the water regularly is helpful. A misting device is an especially attractive water source for hummingbirds.'

Adding a solar fountain like this one from Walmart will help these acrobatic avians to keep clean and cool.

6. Avoid Using Pesticides

The amount of insects in our gardens increases in the height of the summer. However, many of these are beneficial bugs that can actually prevent 'pests' from devouring your Dahlias. Hummingbirds provide excellent 'pest' control too and insecticides reduce a vital food source.

'Hummingbirds need protein-rich insects that are also small enough for them to eat,' says Erika. 'Things like small spiders, aphids, gnats, ants, fruit flies and mosquitoes are an important part of their diet.

'Please don't use pesticides in your yard, as this can eliminate a significant food source for hummingbirds.'

The experts at Audubon remind us that insecticides kill all insects including fireflies, bees, butterflies, ladybugs, dragonflies and cicadas. Eliminating the beneficial insects that eat others can make pest problems worse.

To prevent an invasion, Audubon's advice is to reduce mosquito habitat, such as stagnant water sources, by dumping water from downspouts and emptying and refilling bird baths every 3-5 days.

Also removing invasive species like English ivy and Japanese barberry can help, as these plants can harbour mosquitoes and ticks.

What to Shop

These actions will not only help adult hummingbirds to survive the summer heat, they will support their fledglings' survival too, protecting future generations of these charming creatures.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The crescendo of many summer yards, hanging baskets bring color, height and a touch of creative drama to your outside display. From lining the porch, framing doorways to pepping up gazebos and pergolas, these elevated containers offer a brilliant opportunity to get creative with your planting.

However, even when filled with the best plants for hanging baskets many loose their floral oomph by July, struggling to prolong the show past midsummer.

Fortunately there are a few revival tricks experts use, to keep them looking lush and vibrant through the rest of the season. Here we delve into the practical detail with our five top tips.

Water Baskets Well and Often

With the July heat upon us, it's vital to water basket regularly - daily in most cases. This is especially important for any positioned in rain shadows; next to the house, under porches or covered decks. ‘Baskets in full sun can lose over a quart of water on a hot day, so check daily, sometimes twice,' explains Stephan Winterfeldt, Horticulturalist at Park Seed.

Watering in the early morning is most beneficial, as the plant's roots can absorb moisture before it evaporates. Drip irrigation for hanging baskets and moisture monitors, consider the Reyox Soil Moisture Meter from Walmart, are handy options but there are low tech checks to try too.

'If the basket is heavy, it likely has the water it needs for the day,' says Katie. Adding water retaining granules, such as these from Lowe's , plus using these water storing basket liners from Walmart, will help conserve moisture. Alternatively consider a self watering basket with a visible water reservoir from Walmart

'The real problem usually isn’t forgetting to water, it’s watering too fast,' Stefan continues. 'Dried-out compost pulls away from the basket sides, so water runs straight through without wetting the roots. Water in slow passes with a 30-second pause between each. If bone dry, submerge the whole basket in a bucket of water for 30 minutes instead.'

Remove Fading Blooms

Known as deadheading, pinching or snipping off faded flowers is a speedy task that makes a huge difference to hanging baskets.

‘Deadheading promotes new growth that will continue throughout the Summer and also keeps the plant healthy during the heat,’ explains plant expert Katie Sunderlage . ‘Keeping spent or dead blooms intact can promote diseases, fungus or insects especially when the temperature and humidity rises.’

Knowing which plants to deadhead in July is key, as master gardener Tabar Gibson explains. ‘Petunias are the biggest divas in my baskets. They reward a little extra care with months of nonstop blooms. The trick is to remove not only the faded flower but also the small seed pod tucked just behind it.’

While some flowerheads easily break off with your fingertips (marigolds come away with a satisfying pop), others are best cut. A pair of micro tipped snips from Walmart are pocket friendly.

Avoid the issue of fading blooms altogether by growing self cleaning annuals that don't need deadheading.

Trim Back Growth to Restore Balance and Shape

Ok, this may seem radical but a judicious cutback in July can provide the boost basket plants need.

‘This is the step most gardeners hesitate to take, but it's often the one that produces the biggest transformation,’ says Tabar.

‘If your basket has become long, stringy, or bare near the center, don't be afraid to trim it back by about one-third. It feels dramatic, but bacopa, verbena, lobelia and sweet potato vine all respond with dense new growth within a couple of weeks.’

Depending on stem thickness, a clean sharp pair of snips, such as Corona Floral Scissors from Lowes or Bypass secateurs from Walmart, will easily handle the job.

Revive Your Basket With Fresh Plants

July is a turning point for many hanging baskets as nutrients in the compost deplete. Blooms slow and foliage becomes lacklustre, making it time to reset.

'Mid-July is actually one of my favorite times to freshen containers,' says Tabar. 'I'll remove anything that's truly finished, top off the basket with a little fresh potting mix, and tuck in a few new plants that can carry the display through late summer and into fall.'

To avoid disrupting the whole basket Stephan says, 'pull the fading plant, loosen the soil pocket, add a bit of fresh compost, press the new plant in at the same depth, and water with a diluted high-potassium liquid feed right away.' This narrow trowel with pointed tip from Target is helpful.

For sunny baskets, Tabar suggests calibrachoa, Diamond Frost® euphorbia, sweet alyssum, compact zinnias or angelonia. 'These establish quickly and blend naturally into an existing planting. For shade baskets, coleus immediately brightens the display without flowers.'

Find calibrachoa plants at Amazon as well as coleus at Amazon . We also love silvery dichondra from Burpee.

Feed Baskets Regularly

By this point in the summer, basket plants have exhausted the essential plant nutrients within the potting compost and depend on us to provide them. Liquid fertilizers, especially formulated to encourage leaf growth and bud formation are the experts go-to solution and are quick and easy to manage.

Dilute according to product instructions and use as part of your watering routine.

'Hanging baskets need regular feeding during the Summer months,' says Katie. 'Using a water soluble, slow release fertilizer tends to be the best option for continuous long-term fertilizing without root burning.'

Katie recommends using Jacks Blossom Booster fertilizer, find it at Amazon. Annuals will benefit from a weekly dose of tomato feed; try Farmer's Secret from Walmart.

What to Shop

Follow these five steps and you'll be rewarded with containers that dazzle for weeks to come. Expand your repertoire by discovering the best vegetables for hanging baskets and plants for winter hanging baskets.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Lavender is often treated as a 'plant-it-and-forget-it' staple, but July is when it may need some extra care.

By mid-summer, most varieties are in full bloom, pollinators are busy working the flower spikes, and the plant itself is putting its energy into flowering rather than leafy growth. What you do now will directly affect how healthy it looks for the rest of the season – and how well it performs next year.

I've always loved the scent of lavender and grow it in my own yard every year. Two of my favorites are Sweet Romance® English Lavender for its intensely fragrant purple blooms, and Royal Anouk Spanish Lavender from Plant Addicts, which thrives in hot, sunny conditions and adds striking color to borders.

The Essential July Lavender Jobs to Do During a Heat Dome

This year, lavender care is especially important as a widespread heatwave is expected to intensify across parts of the U.S. in mid to late July, bringing prolonged high temperatures and dry conditions in several regions. For anyone looking to grow lavender, this combination of heat and strong sun can actually benefit established plants – so long as they’re not overwatered.

It also makes choosing the right lavender varieties more important than ever, since English lavender tends to perform best in cooler northern climates, while Spanish and French types are better suited to hotter, sunnier regions.

In terms of landscaping with lavender, these heat conditions can actually enhance its role in drought-tolerant planting schemes, where it thrives in well-drained soil and full sun. Here's what to do with lavender in July to prolong its beauty, color, and fragrance.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers to Extend the Bloom

Once lavender is in flower, regular deadheading is the single most effective way to prolong its display. Learning how to deadhead lavender correctly encourages the plant to put its energy into producing more flowers, rather than setting seed. As individual blooms fade and turn brown, they begin to divert energy away from fresh flower production and into seed formation.

The key is timing. Don't wait until the entire flower stem has finished blooming. Instead, snip off spent flower spikes as soon as they begin to fade, cutting just above the first set of leaves and avoiding the woody part of the stem. A sharp, clean pair of pruners, such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, will give you a precise cut without crushing the stems.

Done correctly, deadheading keeps lavender looking neat, encourages a second flush of blooms later in the season – particularly in repeat-flowering varieties – and prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production you don't need.

2. Harvest Lavender at Its Peak for Scent and Drying

July is the perfect time to harvest lavender, especially if you plan to dry it for bouquets, make fragrant sachets, or use it in culinary recipes. The best time to cut is just before the flowers fully open, when the buds are plump, richly colored, and haven't yet begun shedding pollen. Harvesting at this stage helps preserve the essential oils that give lavender its signature fragrance. For clean, precise cuts, a specialist tool such as the Lavender Harvest Sickle from Amazon can make gathering larger bunches quicker and easier.

For the most aromatic harvest, cut stems early in the morning after the dew has dried but before the afternoon sun becomes too intense. Gather them into small bundles, secure them loosely with twine or an elastic band, and hang them upside down in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot away from direct sunlight. Within a couple of weeks, your dried lavender will be ready to display in arrangements, fill homemade sachets, or store in jars to bring its calming scent indoors all year round.

3. Don’t Cut Into Woody Growth

One of the most common mistakes gardeners make in July is trying to prune lavender too aggressively. While it's tempting to give plants a full tidy after flowering begins, lavender doesn't respond well to being cut back into old, woody stems.

Instead, only trim soft, green growth. If you prune into the woody base, the plant may struggle to produce new shoots – or fail to regrow altogether. If your lavender has become leggy or overgrown, save any major reshaping until late summer after flowering has finished, or in early spring when fresh growth begins. A gentle trim now is all that's needed to keep plants healthy without risking long-term damage.

4. Water Sparingly, Even in Heat

Knowing how and when to water lavender is just as important as knowing when not to. Although July can bring heatwaves and prolonged dry spells, established lavender prefers restraint rather than routine watering. In fact, overwatering is far more damaging than a short period of drought.

Lavender is naturally drought-tolerant once established, and consistently wet soil can lead to root rot, weak growth, and fewer flowers. Water newly planted lavender during extended dry spells, but mature plants typically only need a deep watering when the soil is completely dry a few inches below the surface. Whatever the weather, always make sure your plants are growing in well-drained soil, especially if they're in containers.

5. Feed Lightly – or Not at All

When it comes to feeding, less is more. Knowing when to fertilize lavender – and when to skip it – can make the difference between a plant that's covered in fragrant flowers and one that's all leaves.

Unlike many flowering perennials, lavender thrives in lean, well-drained soil and rarely needs regular feeding. In fact, too much fertilizer, particularly one high in nitrogen, encourages lush, leafy growth at the expense of blooms and can leave plants looking floppy.

If your soil is especially poor, a light application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer in late spring or early summer is plenty, but by July it's best to let the plant focus on flowering and building resilience for the rest of the growing season rather than pushing fresh growth.

6. Leave Some Blooms for Pollinators

While it's tempting to deadhead or harvest every flower spike, try leaving a few stems untouched. Lavender is one of the most valuable nectar plants in the summer garden and, when planted in borders or low hedging, is among the best hedges for wildlife, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial pollinators throughout July.

If you're cutting flowers for drying or regularly deadheading to encourage more blooms, leave a handful of flower spikes in place, particularly later in the month. You'll still enjoy a neat, productive plant while ensuring pollinators can continue feeding during hot, dry spells, when reliable nectar sources can become harder to find.

Shop Lavender Care for July

July is pivotal for lavender care. With the right balance of deadheading, careful harvesting, and restrained pruning, you can extend flowering, improve plant health, and set the stage for a stronger display next year.

As an aromatic herb, lavender rewards this attention twice over – both in the garden and in the home. Handled well, it will deliver not just colour in midsummer, but a fragrance that carries through your space long after the garden season fades.

Summer weeding is unavoidable, but it doesn’t always need to feel like a chore. I have spent countless hours weeding vegetable gardens and flower borders, and my go-to tool for fast, efficient weeding is a stirrup hoe.

A stirrup hoe is perfect for speedy weeding thanks to its push-pull action and is nimble enough to effortlessly remove young weeds in packed borders or between rows of vegetables. The tool slices weeds just under the surface, eradicating them without disturbing the soil.

If you are looking for a garden hoe that will remove weeds with minimum effort, I would always reach for a stirrup hoe. One like this wood-handle stirrup hoe at Home Depot can be used throughout the garden to keep it weed-free and looking its finest.

What Is a Stirrup Hoe?

A stirrup hoe, also called a hoop, shuffle, or oscillating hoe, is a weeding tool with a flat U-shaped metal blade that cuts through weeds with a push-pull action.

As the blade is double-edged, it efficiently cuts through weeds in both directions, slicing them just beneath the soil surface.

The blade comes in various widths and is attached to a long handle, allowing you to use the tool while standing.

The Benefits of Using a Stirrup Hoe for Weeding

A stirrup hoe is really efficient for weeding a garden quickly. The push-pull weeding action makes it fast and easy to kill young weeds, and you can clear even large areas quickly. As the head glides just underneath the soil surface, it kills weeds without disturbing the soil structure.

I have always found a stirrup hoe very nimble to use, and the narrow head was perfect for getting rid of weeds between rows of crops in vegetable gardens. I regularly used one to slice weeds between rows of carrots, beets, onions, leeks, and many more without too much fuss.

But you can also clear large areas quickly, which is perfect when preparing beds for new plantings. I had a routine of removing large or perennial weeds by hand, running over the ground with a stirrup hoe, and then raking – hey presto, the bed is ready for planting.

Outside the kitchen garden, I found the stirrup hoe also works perfectly in flower beds. You can get up close to plants and remove small weeds confident you are not unnecessarily turning over the soil. That is important, as soil disturbance results in moisture loss during the summer.

One formal garden I worked in had a large parterre filled with plants, but also a lot of soil on show. This needed very regular weeding, and my go-to tool was the stirrup hoe. I could quickly weed the sections without disturbing the soil.

As the stirrup hoe skims just under the surface, it doesn’t require the same effort as some other types of hoe, like a Dutch hoe or draw hoe. These usually require a bit more labor and tend to disturb the soil more.

The stirrup hoe works best on small weeds that can easily be sliced down. If you take it out often, you can quickly eradicate young weeds before they establish. You want to get into a good habit of taking the gardening tool out for maximum efficiency.

However, it doesn’t have the same efficacy on larger weeds or those with established tap roots. It may struggle to cut through larger stems, and when it does, it can leave the roots, which will resprout.

If you are dealing with larger weeds, including dandelions, a weeding tool like this stand-up weed puller at Amazon can help make the task easier and less painful on your back or knees.

Shop Stirrup Hoes

Weeding can usually be relatively simple, but there are some faux pas to avoid. Our guide to some of the most popular weeding mistakes reveals what not to do when dealing with these unwanted invaders to our gardens.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Lighting a candle is a simple way to bring a moment of calm to your daily routine. But there's one step you shouldn't skip before reaching for the matches, home fragrance experts warn.

Trimming the wick is more than just a way to ensure a cleaner burn − it's also a crucial way to prevent large, unstable flames from flaring, prevent soot marks, and reduce fire risks.

Here's why it's so important to keep your best candles burning (and smelling) their best.

Why It's Important to Trim Candle Wicks Before Each Burn

Candle Expert Amy Keller has been hand-pouring beeswax candles at Apidae Candles since 2013. The most important advice she constantly gives? 'Don't forget to trim your wicks.' A candle wick trimmer from Amazon makes this easy, and allows for a cleaner, simpler cut than wrestling with scissors.

'Always keep the wick trimmed to half a centimeter,' she advises, to avoid any candle-burning mistakes. 'If the flame gets too high (over two and a half centimeters), the wick needs to be trimmed. Too high a flame is caused by a wick that is too long.

'If the wick becomes mushroom-shaped, the wick needs to be trimmed. This means the candle is using up wax faster than the flame can burn it. And, if the wick begins to smoke, it needs to be trimmed. Too long a wick causes unwanted smoke.'

How to Trim Your Candle Wicks

For trimming wicks, as detailed in our candle care guide, it's best to use a dedicated wick trimmer, also available in this set with snuffer and pick available at Amazon.

As Amy explains, while it's best to do so once your candle has cooled, you can trim your wick during a burn if any of these problems occur. This has the added benefit of making your candles last longer.

'Simply extinguish the flame, trim the wick, and relight the candle. The secret of a perfectly burning candle is proper care of the wick.'

However, as with everything, there is an exception to every rule. 'Don't trim the wick on taper candles,' warns Amy. 'If you trim the wick too short, the fragile side wall containing the wax pool will melt, causing the wax to drip down the side. If a mushroom top forms, you may trim that off, but keep the wick long.'

What to Shop

Whether you're looking to add to your best home fragrance collection or browse candle-care essentials, you can shop my handpicked selection below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Expert

You may be clued up on wick trimming now, but do you know how long you should burn a candle for? According to our experts, it's best to stick to no longer than three to four hours at a time. Remember to always let the wax melt all the way out to the edge of the vessel before blowing out on the first burn to avoid candle tunneling.

For more home fragrancing advice and inspiration, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

White is the lightest of colors; some say it shouldn't even count as a color, and yet it's the one that sparks the most debate in interiors. That's because when decorating with this timeless, universally loved color, the wrong shade can totally throw off a room and make it feel cold, uninviting, and, in 2026, dated.

Thankfully, the fix to a much warmer and welcoming space is simple. From white paints with subtle warm undertones to light, earthy neutrals that add depth, designers are all saying the same thing: ditch the cool-toned, brilliant white paints for a design-led space. Here, you can find out exactly why bright whites have fallen out of favor among designers, and how to fix this common color mistake with more flattering paint shades.

The 'Safe' White That Isn’t Safe Anymore

Decorating with white, specifically very bright whites, became the default color choice for modern homes for lots of reasons: it offered a modern look compared to the more colorful palettes of decades prior, and it was seen as a safe choice when considering the resale value of a home. But good design is rarely about playing it safe, hence why stark white is often seen as a decorating mistake in 2026.

'For many years, stark whites were associated with a clean, modern aesthetic, but today, people are craving homes that feel warmer, more personal, and connected to nature,' explains the Houston designer Marie Flanigan. 'Cool whites can sometimes feel clinical or impersonal, particularly in residential settings.'

'The reality is that many cool whites can read cold or even clinical, particularly when paired with the natural materials that have become so prevalent in today's interiors,' adds Hannah Goldberg of Hannah Charlotte Interiors. 'Warm woods, Taj Mahal quartzite and other natural stones, linen textiles, Roman clay finishes, and plaster walls all carry inherent warmth and depth. When juxtaposed against a stark white with a strong blue undertone, the contrast can often feel harsh rather than harmonious.'

As interior design trends favor decorating styles that allow layering, warmth, and personality, bright white can feel at odds. 'I don't think it's a coincidence that the shift happened around the time we all started spending so much more time at home,' designer Kara Childress says of the decline in stark white. 'The pandemic had a way of clarifying what we actually wanted from our homes, and for most of us, that was comfort.'

It's not about ruling out white altogether – it's the complexity of the undertones of white paint that's important. Warm-toned whites offer a light and airy interior and feel welcoming, whereas those with cool undertones can all too often feel drab. 'It's all about choosing the right white,' says Jess Ebert of Four Story Interiors, based in Charlotte, North Carolina. 'A warm white acts as a quiet backdrop rather than the star of the show, allowing natural materials, layered textures, and richer finishes to take center stage. It becomes a visual palate cleanser that brings balance to a room without feeling sterile or flat.'

Why Cool Whites Fall Flat

Taking a closer look at the undertones (or lack of undertones) of any given white paint gives a clearer picture of why they can be tricky to get right. 'Cool, stark whites often make a room feel expansive and less dynamic,' explains Kara Childress. 'They can also read as sterile, and tend to flatten the elements that make a space interesting, like vaulted ceilings, a beautiful plaster finish, or a unique architectural moment. Those special details can get lost against a wall that's too bright or sharp.'

'Blue-based whites often reflect cooler light, which can make a space feel flat or even a bit sterile, especially in rooms with limited natural sunlight,' Marie Flanigan adds. 'They can also cast an unflattering tone on skin and compete with the warmth found in natural materials like wood, stone, and brass. Because of these undertones, they require very careful consideration of lighting and furnishings to keep a room from feeling cold.'

It's in lower light rooms where the undertones of cool-toned whites are especially tricky, explains Helen Shaw, color expert at Benjamin Moore: 'While these undertones help balance warm sunlight and keep south-facing rooms looking crisp and fresh, they can appear flat, gray, or slightly cold in darker spaces or north-facing rooms with cooler light.'

What Designers Are Choosing Instead in 2026

Switching from bright white paints to warm white paints is a simple swap, but there are other options, too, which you can explore here.

Warm White Paints

The easiest replacement for stark or cool-toned whites is those with warm undertones. Instead of feeling overly bright and jarring, these hues quietly soften rooms, while still allowing that much-desired light and airy look. In this living room, Benjamin Moore's White Dove was used. 'It has a softness to it that never feels cold,' says designer Katie Davis, who's based in Houston.

'With rooms that have this much natural light and volume, we wanted the backdrop to feel warm and relaxed rather than bright white or overly crisp,' she adds. While the choice of white paint is important, so is the surrounding decor, suggests Katie. 'We layered in warm woods, aged beams, upholstery with movement and pattern, natural textures, and softer brass tones so the house feels collected and comfortable.'

Choosing a white paint that looks white, not yellow, can take some consideration. 'It’s important to test colors in the actual space before committing,' Helen Shaw recommends. 'Sample pots are especially useful, allowing you to observe how a white looks in morning light, evening light, and under artificial lighting, as well as in different weather conditions.'

Earthy Neutrals

Beyond warm white paints, delicate neutral paints with earthy undertones make a great alternative to bright white, such as Farrow & Ball's Shaded White, which was used in this breakfast nook. Despite its name, it's actually a greige paint with depth and warmth.

'We love this color because it adds just the right amount of depth without being too warm or too gray,' says the Utah designer Ali Henrie. 'We tend to gravitate toward softer off-white colors in our designs that feel more lived-in and timeless. These off-whites help to soften the space and add depth without making a room feel overly bright or heavy.'

Layered Tonal Palettes

Another way to reimagine all-white rooms is to opt for a palette of tonal neutrals. Although soft and just a step away from white, subtle earth tones offer depth that gives rooms character.

'While Oho is known for our use of color in general, there is something hard to resist about an incredibly calming, both mentally and physically, room that feels tonal from floor to ceiling,' explains Melissa Oholendt, the founder of Oho Interiors.

'We knew that to play nicely with the warmth and coziness of Accessible Beige, we needed a white that wasn't going to detract or take away from the warmth,' she adds. 'Choosing a white that has warm (but still clean) undertones, such as White Dove, gave us a nice complement to the greige color of the cabinets. The designer trick to using white is really to layer in whites and off-whites with similar undertones. The more the merrier.'

Cream Tones

Cream tones feel slightly vintage-inspired and can create charming, warm spaces, as demonstrated in this kitchen. While bright white creates a very modern look, cream offers a slightly aged quality.

'This kitchen is set in a historic home in Iowa, a midwestern state known for its vast fields of corn,' explains designer Mira Eng-Goetz of Jessica Helgerson Interior Design. 'We chose a soft, buttery white for the cabinetry, which pairs nicely with the warm wood flooring and helps this newly renovated kitchen feel as if it’s always been just as it is.'

How to Fix a Cold White Room (Without Repainting Everything at Once)

If you're not able to repaint bright white walls, lighting can be an effective tool to warm up a room and stop it from looking stark. 'In rooms that don’t receive much natural light, artificial lighting has a huge influence on how a white paint color is perceived,' says Helen Shaw.

'Bulbs above 3500K tend to cast a cooler, bluer light that can exaggerate any gray or blue undertones in the paint,' she adds. 'Lower color temperatures produce a warmer, cozier glow, helping the space feel softer and more inviting.'

You could also swap any cool-toned metals, such as chrome, for warmer ones, as well as adding plenty of texture. 'To keep a white room feeling rich and layered, I focus on texture and contrast – mixing plaster walls, natural wood, linen upholstery, woven materials, antique brass, and stone to create depth and visual interest while maintaining a calm, cohesive palette,' says Marie Flanigan.

Another way to warm up white walls is to add colorful decor. While the walls in this dining nook already have warmth, a similar approach can be followed with bright white. 'For this space, we layered in blues and purples,' explains Augusta, Georgia-based designer Lauren Robbins.

If you do decide to paint the walls to complement a similar palette of blues and purples, go for a white paint with soft undertones, but not so warm that it looks yellow. 'Some of my favorite warm white shades are Benjamin Moore's Ivory White and Opaline at 50% (which helps remove the yellow undertones), and Farrow & Ball's James White,' says Lauren.

While accent colors, decor, and lighting can help to warm up existing bright white walls, that's not to say bright white paints don't have their place. For Kara Childress, they often work well when used sparingly. 'I love using a pure white accent within a room painted in a warmer shade,' she says. 'It's almost counterintuitive, but a pop of bright white in artwork, trim, or a key piece of furniture actually draws out the warmth and depth of the wall color rather than competing with it.'

This was the approach Kara followed in this dining space. 'I brought in artwork with bright white backgrounds for exactly this reason,' she says. 'It lets the wall color come forward and those beautiful undertones, particularly in plaster finishes, really sing.'

White rooms aren't out of style – they're just evolving to feel softer and warmer. Make sure to pay attention to the undertones when choosing paint shades to avoid anything too cool, or go for something much more colorful with these white paint alternatives

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

When temperatures rise in the summer, your garden can provide respite. Carefully choosing the right plants helps make the garden feel cooler in the heat by providing crucial shade and creating a more pleasant microclimate.

Trees, shrubs, and climbers add height and dappled shade, while foliage and ground cover plants reduce the ground's reflection and absorption of heat. Also, all plants have a clever trait and release moisture into the air through transpiration to cool the environment around them.

Homeowners all want to spend more time outdoors during the summer. When you surround seating or dining areas with plants that cool a garden, you can beat the heat. As our climates are warming, adapting your backyard ideas will make a big difference each summer.

Shade Trees

Trees cool a garden by providing shade, reflecting sunlight, and transpiration, releasing moisture through their leaves.

Adding shade trees to a space will reduce summer temperatures, as the canopy blocks the rays from reaching the ground and warming it. The continuous release of water into the air as the tree transpires also helps keep temperatures feeling cooler through the garden.

The best trees have attractive, airy foliage that gives dappled garden shade rather than completely blocking light into the garden. The downside: it may take many years for a tree to reach its full size.

Flowering Shrubs

The benefits of transpiration can further be felt closer to ground level by planting shrubs underneath taller tree canopies.

As the shrubs release moisture, the air temperatures around them cool. By planting flowering shrubs around a deck, patio, or seating area, you can enjoy the fragrant blooms and also relax in the knowledge that the plants are contributing to a cooler microclimate to enjoy.

Choose shrubs that won’t grow any more than 4-8 feet in height, or you can achieve the same by planting ornamental grasses around relaxing areas of the garden.

Flowering Climbers

Growing fast-growing climbers on a pergola, archway, fence, or wall helps reduce the heat building up in a garden and creates a cooling, serene environment – especially if you use fragrant climbers like star jasmine or honeysuckle.

Climbers growing over a pergola, arbor, or arch provide natural, elegant shade over a seating area. The foliage blocks the sun’s rays, creating a cooler environment to enjoy.

When the flowering climbers are allowed to grow up walls or fences, they prevent the sun from hitting bricks or concrete and radiating heat back outwards.

Bare walls absorb heat and radiate this for many hours, and covering them with climbers keeps both the outdoors and indoors cooler.

Foliage Plants

Large-leaved foliage plants can bring a tropical garden vibe to any space. They create shade, stop the sun from hitting the ground, and transpire through the pores in their foliage to cool the air around them.

You can grow foliage plants in the ground or in containers to create a cooling microclimate on a deck or patio; just ensure you water them regularly to keep the soil moist in summer.

The choices on offer range from large banana plants that will dominate a space and make a stunning talking point to hostas, which might not grab the same attention but can be planted in numbers to smother the ground and release moisture in the air.

Ground Cover Plants

Bare soil absorbs heat during the day and radiates it back to the air once the sun goes down. To prevent the soil from warming up, the most efficient way to keep it cool is to use ground cover plants.

A living carpet will not only look much nicer than open ground, but it will naturally transpire and cool the air, creating a much more comfortable environment than bare soil or stones.

You can get ground cover plants with different colors and foliage shapes. Covering the soil also retains moisture, which reduces how much watering you need to do in the heat.

As our summers are getting hotter, our modern garden ideas need to put the climate front and center. One of the key aspects must be designing a drought-tolerant yard to cope with drier, warmer summers.

Put careful thought into plants that suit your local climate and have low water requirements, and mulch plants to retain whatever moisture there is in the ground for longer.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

It's official; the neatly clipped lawns, rigid planting structures and formal flower beds of the past are firmly passé. For multiple reasons, gardening trends have given way to looser, wilder, less static schemes.

These types of naturalistic planting are more about working with nature, rather than fighting it. Not only do they have a more relaxed aesthetic, they're generally better for the ecology of your garden (and surrounding areas).

One of these styles is "see-through" planting, and it's a design philosophy to jump on board with, if you're looking for fresh and beautiful backyard ideas. Discover why landscape designers love this mindful, airy aesthetic and how to create it yourself.

What Is 'See-Through' Planting?

Often featuring ornamental grasses, tall leafless stems and umbellifiers, "see-through" planting has a loose, airy style that's far freer than traditional garden schemes. Award-winning, landscape gardener, Jean-Marc Flack, founder, Hortulus Animae is a strong proponent of this design philosophy and it frequently underpins his projects; he explains more.

'The rise of "see-through" or airy planting is a direct pushback against the static, heavy, "object-based" landscaping of the past," says Jean-Marc. 'For decades, traditional high-end gardens prioritized control, using dense hedges and rigid blocks of color to create impenetrable walls.

'But a mindful landscape shouldn't block your view; it should invite you to look through it. A successful "see-through" garden relies on a solid, grounded matrix at the base, which then allows for taller, expressive, "rambunctious" seasonal display layers to weave through the sightlines.'

Why Is 'See-Through' Planting On The Rise?

Like any design movement, garden trends evolve and change for multiple reasons. Aside from the differing visual tastes of new generations of gardeners, and less formality in general, there's a growing awareness that nature needs our support and gardening more holistically and ecologically, with native plants that attract butterflies and other pollinators at the forefront, can provide that.

'Loose, gentle airy planting evokes a different feeling than a typically structured and planted garden,' says Jordan Clough, associate principle designer, Richardson & Associates Landscape Architecture in Washington, DC.

'While ornamental grasses have long been part of the planting designer’s toolkit, we are seeing an emphasis on this aesthetic, which I think reflects a few convergent trends.

'Over the past 15-20 years there has been increasing interest in using native plantings in our gardens, many of which are meadow and grassland species. Aesthetically, there has also been a trend away from showy flowers that tend to have a shorter bloom time or only look good for a few weeks of the year.'

Jordan finds that he now designs more with foliage and texture in mind. 'By creating contrast and drama with wispy, airy species paired against more traditional groupings of shrubs, the visual effect is striking and long-lasting,' he says.

For Jean-Marc "see-through" planting aligns with his practice ethos for encouraging biodiversity, and he loves that it creates negative space. 'It's about about layering and movement,' he says. '"See-through planting" allows the eye to travel, capturing the interplay between fine and coarse textures, and catching the light.

'It ensures the garden is never a static composition, but a time-based medium that moves with the wind. It's about elemental permanence and restraint. You are setting a framework in motion and allowing the architecture of the plant itself, its stems, its umbels, its seed heads, to act as a translucent scrim rather than a solid barrier.'

5 Plants to Get The Look

1. Tufted Hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa)

Tall, swaying ornamental grasses play a prominent part in this style, providing structure, movement, and that all-important airy feel. A particular favorite for Jean-Marc is Tufted Hairgrass, an attractive cool-season species with pale, feathery panicles.

'Tufted Hairgrass (Deschampsia cespitosa) is essential for building the "matrix" of your garden,' says Jean-Marc. 'This native grass provides a soft, wispy base layer. In the summer, it produces clouds of tiny, airy seed heads that act like a shimmering, translucent veil.'

This plant is highly adaptable, thriving in partial shade to full sun, and prefers moist, well-drained soils. These Tufted hairgrass seeds from Walmart can be sown outside after the last frost and are suitable across zones 2-8.

2. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

Another popular native grass in "see-through" planting schemes is Switchgrass. Loved for its ecological benefits as well as its height, movement and beauty, Panicum virgatum (and other native grasses) provide nesting materials and seeds for birds, so would suit wildlife gardens too.

'North America is blessed with many attractive native grass species,' says Jordan.'Some of these have proven very suitable for selective breeding in the nursery industry to enhance their colors and other attractive traits.

'The Panicum genus, specifically, has stunning cultivars such as ‘Heavy Metal’ and ‘Shenandoah’, and the many cultivars of Little Bluestem.'

Panicum virgatum is an ornamental warm-season grass that grows well in full sun and is drought-tolerant once established.

This Panicum Northwind switchgrass from Burpee is a prairie native with blue-green leaves and airy seedheads that will provide color, texture and interest to your yard, as well as shelter and food for birds.

3. Drumstick Allium (Allium sphaerocephalon)

Intrinsic within "see-through" planting schemes are umbellifiers with their flat, lacy flower-heads, plants with globe-like umbels and those with long, leafless stems. Jean-Marc loves to weave Pale Purple Coneflower (Echinacea pallida) and Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) into his beautiful landscape projects, however one of his best-loved species is the Drumstick allium.

'This is one of my personal favorites for creating a "see-through" moment,' says Jean-Marc. 'Drumstick alliums feature tall, thin, leafless stems topped with tight, burgundy-purple oval flower heads. Because the stems are so slender, they appear to be floating mid-air, allowing you to see completely through to the plants behind them.'

Drumstick Alliums are the last of the family to bloom and are great plants for pollinators. Reaching one to three feet tall, they require full sun and well-drained soil. Try these drumstick alliums from Burpee to capture the "see-through" style.

With its slender stems, purple coneflower looks gorgeous alongside alliums in naturalistic schemes, so experiment with these echinacea seeds from True Leaf Market. Alternatively, opt for edible umbellifiers, with these Mammoth Long Island dill seeds from True Leaf Market for warm-season edimentals.

4. Culver's Root (Veronicastrum virginicum)

With layering and movement at the heart of this "see-through" naturalistic planting trend, tall, slender stems with flower spikes rather than blousy blooms take precedence. An upright perennial that Jean-Marc likes to work with – and recommends if you're starting out – is Culver's root.

'Culver's root is a magnificent, structural native plant,' says Jean-Marc. 'It produces elegant, slender vertical spires of tiny white or pale purple flowers. Because it grows strictly upright rather than outward, it draws the eye up to the sky without bulking up the mid-ground and blocking the view.'

Culver's root thrives in requires full sun and rich, moist soils. Expect it to flower from summer to fall. This Culver's root from Nature Hill's can reach 5-7' tall for a dramatic display that butterflies will adore.

5. White gaura (Gaura lindheimeri)

Whilst ornamental grasses, tall leafless stems and umbellifiers are wonderful for the vertical layering, swaying and informality in a naturalistic scheme, this interest can come from other plants at differing heights too. Jordan likes to include flowering perennials in subtle tones.

'There are a few flowering perennials that will also achieve this "see-through" look,' says Jordan. 'Some personal favorites of mine include Gaura lindheimeri and Threadleaf Amsonia, Other species I like to use include Verbena bonairensis and Bouteloua gracilis.'

These white Gaura seeds from Walmart need cold stratification, but can be started indoors several weeks before the last frost. Alternatively, sprinkle them now or in the fall and wait for next season's blooms. Sow them where there is full sun and give them dry soil conditions once established.

If you'd like to embrace this design philosophy, existing plants can simply be replaced, as they expire, with looser, less blousy species. Think layering with tall native grasses, feathery panicles, lacy umbels and flower spikes or tiny blooms that sway or nod in the wind (and provide sustenance for birds, butterflies, bees and other beneficials), for a landscape that looks and feels more alive.

'These airy plantings have more movement than typical garden species, which are usually treated as static objects,' says Jordan. 'This means that every light breeze brings your garden to life with flickering shadows, dancing seed heads or waving flowers.'

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There are so many different ways to grow tomatoes. But, the latest idea I've found is ingenious if your tomatoes are looking tall, thin and floppy: you can grow tomatoes sideways to make them stronger.

It may sound a little strange at first because this method of growing tomatoes requires burying the tomato stem in a trench. Roots then grow from the buried leaf nodes, resulting in a stronger root system. It's the perfect solution to saving leggy or weak tomatoes, so you can still have a good harvest.

But, this method will only work if you use it in the right circumstances and manage it correctly. Here, we talk through how this tomato growing hack works.

Why Grow Tomatoes Sideways?

It's not uncommon for tomato plants to grow a little bit leggy and weak, either due to tomato growing mistakes or unpredictable weather. But, you can still save your harvest by using the method to grow tomatoes sideways.

'Planting tomatoes in a trench is an ideal solution if your plants have gotten a bit leggy, which happens regularly due to high temperatures or a lack of sunlight,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'Planting them sideways into a trench takes advantage of a clever trait tomatoes have: growing extra roots along the stem. A stronger overall root system means the plant can take in more water and nutrients, and you’ll get a sturdier and more drought-tolerant plant,' he explains.

But, it isn't as simple as burying your tomato plant. There is some careful preparation and management required to ensure you still harvest tomatoes this summer.

How to Grow Tomatoes Sideways

To grow tomatoes sideways you first need to clean the stem by removing all the leaves, except those at the very top.

You should use clean and sharp pruning tools when doing this to ensure the plant stays healthy. These Fiskars pruning snips from Amazon are a reliable choice.

To actually plant the stem sideways, create a trench in your planting bed. You want it to be just 4-6" deep in nutrient-rich compost, accommodating the length of the stem.

Then, lay the stem down sideways and bury it, gently bending the top of the stem upwards so the leaves stick out above surface level. Make sure the existing root ball is covered.

'Don’t worry about the stem curving or bending; the plant will quickly find its way and start growing upwards towards the sun after planting,' says Drew.

Putting a support in place to help train the exposed part of the stem will encourage it to climb upwards. These bamboo stakes from Amazon work well, or you can use the tomato string method.

Water well to help it settle. In as little as 1-2 weeks, the buried leaf nodes will develop new roots.

'Sideways planting buries a large portion of the stem, and the tomato plant will respond to that by growing lots of roots along the buried section,' Drew explains.

As the bigger root system develops, your tomato plant will become more drought-tolerant, cope better with hot summer days, and will be less likely to become leggy.

Don't forget to continue pruning tomato plants when growing them like this. Removing side shoots (or 'suckers' which appear between the main stem and branches) helps redirect the plant's energy to fruiting, resulting in a bigger harvest.

What to Shop

This is just one way to increase tomato yields if your tomato plant is struggling. Fertilizing your tomatoes with a high-potash feed (like this tomato fertilizer from Amazon) also supports flowering and fruit production.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Warmer days are upon us, so it's only natural to want to spend as much time as possible outside. While to some, the ideal summer day consists of doing very little, to me (and quirky homeware lovers like me), it's spending time in an old house (or garage) sifting through once-loved knick-knacks that need a new home.

Whether you enjoy decorating with vintage or you're keen to snoop around for a bargain, garage sales are filled with all kinds of unexpected treasures that are perfect for every type of shopper.

'I love, love, love, garage sales, especially in wonderful old historic homes, or in the more sophisticated parts of town,' says interior designer Jill Tran of Tran + Thomas Design Studio. 'The best way to navigate is to walk in with an open mind and wide open eyes! We always look for things that are unique, perhaps not available anymore, that have a wonderful nostalgia or can help tell a story for a client or even our own homes!'

Garage sales are filled with unexpected gems, so the question remains, how do you navigate them? What should you pick up, and what should you always avoid?

1. Buy It For Its Quality, Not Its Price

Like with most things, it's always important to make a purchase based on quality rather than price point. It's all well and good spotting a bargain, but if it's not something you actually want or need, you'll forget about it pretty quickly.

Whether you're heading to one of the vintage sales happening in July 2026 or there's a local garage sale you've spotted in your neighborhood, while it's easy to get swept up in the excitement of a haggle, always consider the quality of the piece you're buying.

'My biggest garage sale tip is to buy for quality, not simply because something is inexpensive,' says vintage expert Vanessa Chaverri-Gratz. 'The best bargain is the piece you’ll still love years from now, whether it’s a solid wood table, vintage artwork, holiday decor, or beautiful brass candlesticks.'

2. Make a Clear List

Whether you're starting an antiques collection or you're shopping for that one specific piece to fill out an empty nook, always make a list of what you need before you head to a garage sale to ensure you don't make the age-old mistake of leaving with pieces you didn't need and don't actually work in your home.

'Garage sales can hold amazing treasures if you know what to look for,' explains Jody Jones, founder of Blue Indigo Design. 'When hitting the neighborhood sale, our biggest tip is to be prepared. Make a list of the items you are looking for and determine the style, finish, or color pattern that will work best for the items that you already have.'

'We like to focus on vintage frames, textiles and ceramics,' Jody continues. 'Frames instantly add character to your space, textiles are great layering pieces, and decorative ceramics are amazing for finishing styling in your spaces. Don’t be afraid to find something that may need a little TLC; the layered and lived-in vibe is what can make a garage sale find some of the best pieces in your home.

3. Go In with An Open Mind

'When shopping at a garage sale try to look past the current styling and focus on the 'bones' of a piece. Fresh paint, new hardware, or a good cleaning can completely transform something that’s well made,' advises Vanessa.

You should always thrift furniture, artwork, or ceramics at garage sales, particularly if it works with your interior design style or the look you're trying to create. Jill says, 'We just completed a project, and we’re able to use a variety of antique and vintage pieces to fulfil the client's wish of a “Ralph Lauren” look and utilized garage sales for that, and it was so much fun!'

'The project turned out fabulously with lots of layering and very interesting things such as old horn magnifying glasses, a wonderful old fabric and leather suitcase, beautiful old books, and even a stunning wood and brass level. In addition, we had weathered tennis rackets and croquet mallets, vintage trophies, delightfully detailed silver pieces, and old cameras. What a joy!'

4. Collect, Don't Hoard

Slowly collecting is what the eclectic interior design trend is all about, so if you're looking to create a home that feels thoughtful and authentic, know when to buy – and when to put it down.

'Finally, I’d encourage people to collect slowly,' explains Vanessa. 'The goal isn’t to come home with the most items. It’s to come home with the right ones. The most timeless homes are built one meaningful piece at a time.'

Whether it's a Spode plate to add to your collection of vintage ceramics or a rare book to go on the shelves of your home library, the pieces you have thought about are the ones you'll be thankful that you bought in years to come.

5. Do Your Research

Only garage sale regulars will know that the best way to strike gold is to do your research beforehand. Consider the neighborhood the garage sale is being held in, the type of property being cleared out, and if you can, who the owner is.

Not only will this give you a firm idea of what sort of goods to expect, but it also means you can brush up on your research beforehand and gauge what sort of prices you'd be satisfied paying for certain goods.

A garage sale looks very different depending on your location, so it's always useful to be aware of antiques you should buy depending on where you live so you know the gems worth buying, particularly if you've made the trip there and you're not local to that area.

Timeless Vintage Picks

If you can't make it to a garage sale this summer, online vintage shopping is the best it's ever been and it's so easy now to find a gem. These are just a few of the pieces I am eyeing up right now.

The secret to winning big at a garage sale is approaching every item with care and caution. Always examine the pieces that catch your eye and ensure you actually need them before making a spontaneous purchase you could regret.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

For many gardeners, welcoming wildlife into the backyard is one of the joys of the season, and that includes watching the antics of local squirrels. However, admiration can quickly turn to frustration when these playful creatures begin digging huge holes in pristine container displays and freshly planted raised beds. The resulting damage can ruin months of hard work overnight. But there is a natural, aromatic fix.

Squirrels are clever creatures, meaning standard deterrents often fail. From setting up dedicated nut tables to draping protective netting over vegetable crops, determined squirrels frequently find a way to persist. It is their natural instinct to dig for food, meaning traditional barriers rarely provide a long-term fix.

The secret to protecting the yard without causing harm lies in eco-friendly, natural pest control. Fortunately, there is one potent herbal scent that squirrels detest: peppermint. When deployed strategically and in the correct form, peppermint, which you can snap up at Walmart, offers a completely safe, humane, and highly effective barrier that stops digging behavior in its tracks.

Why Peppermint Works as a Squirrel Deterrent

Simply put, squirrels have an incredibly heightened sense of smell, and the pungent, intense aroma of peppermint completely overwhelms their senses.

While other natural repellents like cayenne pepper or cinnamon can also drive them away, they aren't always pleasant to have wafting across a patio. Peppermint is the perfect compromise: a scent that humans find wonderfully refreshing, but rodents find utterly repulsive.

However, using peppermint successfully to get rid of squirrels requires understanding the target. Squirrels are highly intelligent, persistent, and adaptable creatures. If a scent barrier is weak or fades, they will quickly figure out a workaround. To turn this into a long-term solution rather than a temporary fix, the peppermint aroma must remain highly concentrated and be reapplied consistently.

This is where application method becomes critical, as living plants alone rarely pack a big enough punch.

'Peppermint offers a mild, temporary deterrent, but squirrels quickly adapt, and the scent fades outdoors,' explains Ricky Young, owner of Young Pest Control.

To combat this, Young notes that a concentrated peppermint spray, which you can find at Amazon, is far more effective than relying solely on live mint plants. For gardeners dealing with particularly stubborn pests, he suggests pairing the scent with a physical barrier, such as heavy-duty netting, such as this from Ace Hardware, to ensure vulnerable plants are fully protected.

How To Use Peppermint For Maximum Impact

Relying solely on live mint plants won't keep determined rodents at bay. To create a truly effective barrier, the peppermint must be concentrated, strategically placed, and consistently refreshed.

The scent from a fresh peppermint plant isn’t concentrated or consistent enough to bother squirrels, explains Nicole Carpenter, president of Black Pest Prevention. 'It might slow them down briefly, but if you’re going the peppermint route, go with a high-quality spray or oil-soaked cotton balls and reapply often. And even then, rotate the scents, as squirrels get nose-blind fast.'

To achieve that expert-level concentration, gardeners have two highly effective options:

The Essential Oil & Cotton Ball Method

Soak cotton balls in pure peppermint essential oil and tuck them directly into the soil of vulnerable containers, raised beds, or near the base of prized plants.

Because the oil is shielded slightly by the cotton, it holds its scent longer outdoors than a topical spray.

A Concentrated Peppermint Spray

You can easily mix your own solution by diluting pure peppermint essential oil with water in a spray bottle, or purchase a pre-mixed rodent repellent spray.

Generously coat the perimeters of raised beds, the rims of containers, and the poles or bases of bird feeders. Avoid spraying the actual bird food or feeding ports directly, as strong essential oils can irritate a bird's respiratory system.

Spray at least two to three times a week, and always immediately after a heavy rain shower.

To prevent squirrels from becoming nose-blind to the mint, follow Carpenter's advice by rotating your strategy. Try switching to cayenne pepper, available from Amazon, and spray for a week before returning to peppermint.

For the ultimate multi-layered defense, you can still plant live peppermint in pots around the perimeter of your raised beds. While the live plants provide a gentle, continuous baseline aroma, the concentrated sprays and oils supply the heavy-hitting punch needed to keep your yard squirrel-free.

What to Shop

By combining peppermint with other known squirrel repellents, such as an ultrasonic device, from Amazon, or these natural squirrel repellent balls, also on Amazon, you can shore up a significant defence against these mischievous critters.

You can also plant marigolds around any high-risk plants, for another method that brings yet more joy to us in the garden, and hopefully keep the squirrels at bay.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

With extreme heat hitting the US this summer and our backyards in desperate need of some extra hydration, thinking of ways to be water-wise has never been more important. One of the most innovative ways gardeners are making watering less hassle and less wasteful is by hydrozoning.

This design trick helps reduce water waste in the yard by grouping plants with the same watering needs together. As a result, you don't end up accidentally chucking a load of water on a plant that actually prefers drier soil. Instead, certain zones of your garden will need watering more frequently, while other zones will be more drought-tolerant, reducing unnecessary watering.

Paired with an automatic drip irrigation system (like this kit from Amazon), this makes watering your plants super low-maintenance. So, if you're sick of juggling lots of different watering needs in one garden border, here's why hydrozoning might work for you.

What is Hydrozoning?

'Hydrozoning is actually a pretty simple way to organize a garden. You just group plants together by the amount of water they need,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

If you're deciding on a new garden layout, hydrozoning is one of the best garden water-saving ideas to choose.

'Many problems in our gardens begin with improper watering that causes stress to the plants. If you add plants that are water-needy with plants that do fine with less water, one group of those plants will not be happy and become stressed,' explains Gail Pabst, gardening expert and Marketing Director for the National Garden Bureau.

'When a plant is stressed it becomes more susceptible to pests, weather, stunted growth, and more,' she explains.

Ultimately, by grouping plants with the same needs together in one bed, border, or even in a container garden, you reduce the likelihood of watering mistakes being made.

In turn, as Gail explains, this can ward off garden pests and disease like powdery mildew which is worsened by excessive moisture.

Hydrozoning also allows you to work more carefully with the light exposure in your yard. For example, you could position your drought-tolerant planting in a sun-soaked patch and your moisture-loving shade plants underneath a tree canopy.

'It saves on the water bill and makes setting up soaker hoses on timers even easier to figure out,' Lindsey notes.

With a soaker hose (like this from Walmart) or a drip irrigation system (like this kit from Amazon), you can be assured that no plants in one hydrozone are being overwatered. As Lindsey notes, it takes a lot of guesswork out of setting up timers.

'The goal is that a plant that likes to dry out won't get overwatered for being near a plant that likes to stay a little wet, and vice versa,' she says.

How to Hydrozone Your Yard

'To do this correctly, you will need to know the water needs of the plants,' says Gail.

'In existing gardens, check the water needs so you can determine how much water the irrigation line will deliver to that area. When you add a new plant to the line, research if it will be a water match to the existing plants.

'If there's a plant that is totally out of place because of their water needs, you might want to relocate it to a spot where other plants have the same water needs,' she advises.

It can help to make a drawing of your garden, labelling different areas with how much water they need and working through which plants belong where accordingly.

'Once thing I caution gardeners about is also making sure that the plants you group together like the same soil type,' Lindsey notes.

'While most plants like well-draining soil, their pH preference varies a lot. If you don't group like-minded soil plants together, you will run into issues when fertilizing,' she explains.

In this sense, you can take zoning beyond watering needs. Consider groups of plants that need the same light and nutrients, too. This is where companion planting can be handy to use.

'I tell my clients you really don't need any fancy irrigation system to hydrozone. It's just about simple logistics,' says landscape designer Gerardo Loayza.

'Plant your high-water plants right next to the patio or the water spigot so you don't have to drag the heavy hose super far. Plant the super-low-water plants as far away as possible so that you don't necessarily have to do anything crazy in order to reach them,' he explains.

Gerardo also notes the importance of a buffer zone.

'We really can't put low-water desert plants next to a swamp zone, because water bleeds through the soil underground. You want to create a transition zone from high water to low water, and moderate water in between, so that the soil moisture slowly tapers off,' he explains.

What to Shop

Hydrozoning will make your garden more low-maintenance to water, but you still need to be on top of things like when to water your garden and how to water plants in hot weather to keep your garden sufficiently hydrated.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?