I've grown strawberries for the first time this year and it's now one of the most rewarding plants in my garden. Sweet homegrown harvests have been a joy through summer, but my plant is now starting to slow down and it's left me wondering to do with strawberry plants after fruiting.

If you're also new to growing strawberries, it's important to give your plant a bit of TLC after it's finished producing its red juicy berries. Some light pruning tidies it up, while potting up runners will give you brand new plants and guarantee great harvests for years to come.

Essentially, after fruiting, late-summer strawberry care is all about rejuvenating your plant and getting it ready for fall. Here's exactly what to do – you'll want some sharp gardening snips to hand (I like these Fiskars ones from Amazon).

1. Identify It's Finished Fruiting

Strawberries typically product fruit through summer, stopping in fall. There are a few signs you can look for to identify it's time to give them post-fruiting care.

It will be quite obvious as the plant won't put out anymore of its white or pink flowers that turn into berries once pollinated. But, this isn't the only sign.

New growth will predominantly go to runners (i.e. the long stems coming off the plant, which eventually produce new plants). Plus, older foliage will be looking tired, yellow and brown.

If your strawberries have experienced disease, excessive pest damage, or look worse for wear, it might be time to pick up some new plants. You can find strawberry starter plants at Walmart.

2. Tidy Up the Plant

After fruiting, the first thing you should do is prune your strawberry plant to tidy it up and rejuvenate it after a tiring, productive summer. Though, you should be wary not to fully cut your strawberry plants back.

'After the plants have finished fruiting, they benefit from a tidy. Work through the plants and remove any dead, diseased, or dying foliage with sharp pruning snips,' advises Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'Removing old, yellow or brown growth not only tidies up the patch but it gives new leaves the chance to come through impeded and keeps the strawberry plant healthy over winter,' he explains.

As Drew notes, it's important to use sharp pruning tools for this. This hori hori knife from Amazon is a good choice, offering multipurpose use around the yard.

When removing foliage, cut two inches above the plant's crown, as this is where new growth will emerge.

3. Pot Up Runners

Although strawberry plants are perennial, Drew notes, 'Strawberry plants peak in years two and three, then the yield drops.' For this reason, you should use this year's runners to propagate your strawberry plant.

'During summer, the plants create lots of new runners. After fruiting, you should pot up some of these runners to create a new generation of plants,' Drew says.

The runners are the long, horizontal stems that grow out of the main plant. They produce plantlets that root into soil.

'Potting up runners each year helps you have a succession of plants at their peak productivity each season. You can either cut free runners and pot them up, or keep the runner connected to the mother plant and pin it into a pot of soil. Once the runner roots, then cut it from the plant,' Drew advises.

You'll want to use a pot of nutrient-rich, well-draining compost and pin the plantlet in place with a U-shaped garden staple (like these from Walmart). Keep the compost consistently watered and in a bright spot to encourage rooting, before using garden snips to cut off the stem once rooted.

If your strawberry plant has produced excess runners you don't want, you can also remove them now to redirect energy to the parent plant and encourage a greater yield next year.

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FAQs

Do Strawberries Need Winter Protection?

Yes, strawberry plants benefit from winter protection in the coldest climes (USDA zone 7 and below). You can winterize strawberry plants before frost by mulching and bringing potted plants indoors to overwinter.

If you want to grow bigger strawberries next year, don't forget to fertilize your strawberry plants. You can use a high-potash feed like a tomato fertilizer, or use a specific strawberry plant fertilizer (which you can find on Amazon).

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The room is finished. Everything is in place. The palette works, the furniture fits, the objects are arranged on the shelves. And something is still wrong. It feels correct and somehow inert. Like a hotel room that someone put a lot of thought into.

The problem, almost always, is that everything in it is new.

Not new as in recently installed. New as in purchased from the same moment in time, from the same aesthetic register, with the same lack of history. Nothing in the room has been anywhere before. Nothing has been used by anyone. Nothing carries evidence of a life that preceded the one currently being lived in it.

It was designed to feel inhabited. It doesn't. And that's exactly what people eliminate when they furnish a home all at once.

In my own work, the piece I fight hardest to keep is usually the old one. A worn leather chair that the client wants to replace. A ceramic that came from somewhere else. A piece of furniture that is clearly from a different decade than everything we're putting around it. I almost never let them go, because I know that thing will be the reason the room works.

The old thing is usually the thing you remember when you leave the room. It's the thing that makes everything around it feel more real rather than less.

I've thought about why this works, and I think it comes down to evidence. A room full of new things has no evidence of time passing. The objects in it haven't been touched enough to show it. They haven't been moved around or reconsidered or kept because someone loved them specifically. They were selected and installed, and they sit there being correct.

One old thing changes this entirely. It has been somewhere before it was here. Someone else made a decision about it. It has a surface that shows use. It asks a question about how it got into the room, and that question makes the room feel like it has a story.

The fix is not complicated. It is not a whole room of vintage pieces or a commitment to any particular aesthetic. It is one thing. One wooden object that has been oiled and used. One ceramic that is clearly handmade and old. One piece of furniture that was not designed in the last five years. One light fixture from a different era than the rest of the room.

That one thing will do more for the room than almost any other single decision. Not because old things are inherently better than new things. Because a room that contains only one moment in time reads as incomplete, even when it's finished.

The rooms I love most feel like they've been gathered rather than purchased. That's not an accident. It's a decision that someone made early, usually by keeping one thing that didn't match and letting the rest of the room answer to it.

Interior designer Nina Takesh is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, sharing her thoughts on decor. See the rest of her articles here.

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You better believe it; it's just four months until the Christmas holiday season, and now is the perfect window for propagating houseplants. They really do make great (and free!) green gifts – guaranteed to be appreciated by friends and family. And so much more beautiful than another scented candle or novelty sweater.

Propagating houseplants is much simpler than you might imagine. If you've not tried it before, you're in for a treat. Cuttings, offsets, and even leaf tips of your favorite indoor plants can be transformed easily and quickly into mini plants ready for gifting by the end of December. Add a carefully selected pot, a pretty label, and a gift tag, and you have the perfect package for a green-leaning friend, neighbor, or relative.

Some of the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings include fountain-like spider plants, lush, trailing pothos, delicate string of pearls and super-cute pilea. I'll guide you through the methods, compost, and care that will take you from novice to seasoned cuttings grower. First up, the compost – The Sill's premium potting mix is a great one for most houseplants.

1. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)

Plain, lush green or variegated, the spider plant is one of our best-loved indoor plants, and spider plant care couldn't be simpler. It's also one of the easiest indoor plants to propagate.

In summer it sends out a cascade of arching stems that each produce their own plantlets at the tip: mini versions of the parent plant just waiting for their own pot to grow.

The baby plants are actually called spiderettes or pups (how cute is that?) and all they need to make new plants is to be snipped off with a pair of small clean, sharp pruners like these from Wayfair, and popped into water. In fact, we have a guide to the essential houseplant care kit, which will show you everything you need for the job.

To propagate spider plants, use a shallow glass or jar and make sure that just the base of each pup is submerged. This way the leaves won't rot. Pop the jar in a bright spot out of direct sunlight and refresh the water every few days.

Once the roots are 2-3in (6-8cm) long, transfer the pups to small pots of well-drained potting compost and grow them on, watering lightly until established, then reducing your watering. It really couldn't be simpler.

Top Tip: If your plant hasn't produced any pups this year but it's a decent size, ease it out of its pot and gently tease away the different plant sections. Repot the new pieces in fresh compost and give them a little water.

2. Pothos (Epipremnum)

Pothos is a lush trailing plant that I grow in macramé plant hangers at home – you can buy macramé plant hangers at Amazon. The long stems seem to go on and on, creating abundant veils of greenery with very little in the way of traditional pothos care or attention (I admit, I do tend to neglect my houseplants).

To propagate pothos, snip off one or two long, healthy stems just below a leaf node (the little bumps where new roots will grow), then snip that stem into 8in (20cm) sections and place in a bowl or wide glass of water (stems in, leaves out of the water). Leave this in a warm, light place.

Change the water every week and in a few weeks you'll see roots. Once these are a decent size, say 2in (5cm), transfer to pots of compost – for a fuller, bushier look plant three per pot – and grow them on.

Good to know: If you have philodendron plants, the propagation method is exactly the same.

3. Chinese Money Plant (Pilea)

I love Chinese money plant. With its sprays of little round leaves, each with a central pale dot, it's one of the cutest houseplants there is. How to grow Chinese money plant? Well, it's almost foolproof. So more is most definitely more with Pilea and I'm all for propagating this little beauty.

You can propagate money plants for free in two ways. The first is to find baby pups at the base of mature plants and cut them out (a pair of Fiskars Detailer Snips from Amazon are really useful here).

Then you either submerge the stems in water or plant them directly into small pots of well-drained potting compost (keep the compost moist, of course). The pups are pretty small so this can be fiddly – I find a set of succulent tweezers from Amazon helpful here for backfilling the compost.

Bonus method: This is a great solution if your plants have become a bit leggy. You cut off the tops of those leggy stems, remove the lower leaves, then root the stem in a jar of water (just like before, with spider plants), before potting them up. If you have a jar with a narrow opening, that will help to keep the leaves above the water line.

4. String of Pearls (Senecio)

Stem cuttings are the best and easiest way to make new string of pearls plants for free. Your friends will love the sweet little plants, their long, trailing stems decked with glossy green buttons from root to tip. They're deservedly popular and learning how to look after string of pearls is a synch.

But back to string of pearls propagation. Using sharp disinfected snips, cut 3-6in (8-16cm) stems from your plants, then carefully pull off the bottom three or four pearls to expose the nodes.

Pop the ends of the stems into pots filled with moist succulent or cactus compost (string of pearls is a succulent, so it needs a particularly sharp-draining growing medium – try Hoffman Cactus & Succulent Soil Mix from Amazon), three or four to a pot to get nice bushy pots, and leave in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

Every day or two mist the plants lightly – a simple spray bottle like this one from Amazon will do the trick – and you should see roots making their way down into the soil in around six weeks.

5. Snake Plant (Dracaena)

Propagating snake plants is a little different, as you have to take pieces of the leaf and encourage these to produce roots. It's a simple process, however, and you'll need a large jar of water to begin with.

First choose a healthy leaf from your snake plant (expert tips for healthy snake plants include bright light and low watering), then use a pair of sharp pruners to cut it near the base making an inverted V cut. Next, cut the leaf down into 4in (10cm) pieces, again using the inverted V cut and remembering to keep the sections of leaf the right way up.

Pop the leaf sections into your jar of water, add a a few drops of Root Drops from Amazon and be patient. The wait is a little longer here – it'll be around three months until you have roots big enough to pot them up.

Do this into light, sharply draining houseplant compost, three sections to a pot. Water them in well, letting the pots drain, then keep watering to a minimum after that.

Time To Get Festive

When you've got your newly propagated houseplants all ready to go, you'll want to make them look the business, and there are a few little additions that will do just that.

First off, some pretty plant labels and a lovely pot – The Sill has a great selection. Make sure the pot is the right size – your plastic pot should fit snugly inside with all the plastic hidden beneath the rim.

Then gift wrap, either neutral (Shinok paper roll from Amazon will wrap plenty of pots) or these Botanical Gift Bags from Amazon are fun, as is this Potted Plant gift Wrap, also from Amazon. And I love tying things together with simple jute string, although a few lengths of something sparkly look fabulous too.

A simple but classy gift tag design like this one from Amazon will finish the whole package off perfectly.

I adore receiving home-grown or homemade gifts. It's personal, and so thoughtful. The gift of a houseplant, carefully propagated and packaged is one any green-loving friend or relative will cherish for years to come.

My advice is to make a date with yourself in the diary, stock up on houseplant compost and your essential houseplant care kit, then enjoy a few hours of snipping and potting. You'll have armfuls of free gifts come December.

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We've all heard of dryer balls, often touted as the best way to speed up tumble-dryer timings, reduce wrinkles, and soften fabrics. But what if there was an even cheaper alternative?

The answer likely already lies in your kitchen cabinets. Laundry experts explain that scrunched balls of aluminum foil make for an affordable, effective substitute in a pinch and work particularly well to reduce static cling.

Here, the pros share exactly why, and how to try this laundry hack in your own home.

If you're clued up on why you should be using dryer balls, you'll know why they're a crucial indoor laundry accessory. Importantly (and admittedly), aluminum balls won't work in the same way, but they are an impressively budget-friendly way to reduce static cling when doing laundry.

'The main thing aluminum foil balls can do is help reduce static,' explains Rechelle Balanzat, Laundry Expert and Founder and CEO of Juliette, an NYC-based premium laundry service. 'As your clothes tumble and rub together, they create static, and the foil helps discharge some of that electricity. It can help with that annoying cling you sometimes get when clothes come out of the dryer. It’s a simple, inexpensive alternative if you don’t have dryer balls on hand.

'Just scrunch aluminum foil [available at Walmart for under $2] into two or three firm, smooth balls and toss them into the dryer with your clothes,' adds Juliette. 'You can reuse them until they start to fall apart or get too rough.'

Remember, however, that these won't work in the same way as dryer balls, also available at Walmart.

Juliette explains, 'Dryer balls help separate clothes, improve airflow, and can help with drying time. So I see foil balls more as a simple static-reducing hack, rather than a replacement for dryer balls.'

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Looking for more laundry day inspiration? Shop from a selection of top-rated products below to make your routine easier than ever.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

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This towel hack uses wool dryer balls and essential oils to fluff up fabrics.

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Fruit flies can become a particularly frustrating problem in late summer, when warm temperatures and plenty of ripe fruit create ideal conditions for them to multiply. While the best way to get rid of fruit flies is to remove what’s attracting them in the first place, growing certain aromatic herbs indoors can provide an extra layer of protection.

If your kitchen is currently attracting fruit flies, start by clearing away overripe fruit, wiping down surfaces, and emptying the trash regularly. Then consider adding one or more of these five herbs to your kitchen windowsill. Their strong scents are thought to help deter fruit flies, while giving you a fresh supply of herbs for cooking.

Even better, these are useful herbs to grow indoors year-round, so you can keep them close at hand without needing a dedicated herb garden. If countertop space is limited, a sunny kitchen window box or compact self-watering herb planter, just like this one from Walmart, can work just as well.

1. Basil

Rebecca Sears, a gardening expert from Ferry-Morse, says, 'One of my must-have herb recommendations is basil as it’s easy to grow and provides fresh sweet and spicy leaves for your favorite meals throughout the season. Its strong aroma can not only help your kitchen smell great, but it can also help repel fruit flies.'

She recommends placing the plant near your fruit to help keep pesky bugs away. Somewhere with plenty of light is best.

'Soil should be kept consistently moist but not waterlogged. Maintain a pH of 6.0 to 7.5, which can easily be determined by using a soil test kit,' Rebecca says. Soil tests are available from Walmart.

Regular pruning encourages growth and releases more of the plants' natural oils into the air, enhancing their ability to keep fruit flies away.

2. Rosemary

A sprinkling of rosemary is excellent for elevating your roast potatoes or homemade bread, and its strong scent is said to help keep fruit flies away.

Grow rosemary indoors in pots with good drainage, or in a sunny planter near your door or window – its early springtime blue flowers will attract butterflies. Rosemary is a Mediterranean herb that prefers free-draining conditions and can suffer if its roots are left sitting in wet compost, so resist the temptation to overwater it.

You could also hang up handfuls of fresh sprigs to intensify the pest-repelling effect and bring a rustic farmhouse look to your kitchen.

You can find Southern Living® Chef's Choice® Rosemary Plant at Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees), which has a higher oil content than other rosemary varieties.

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3. Lavender

Rebecca says the essential oils in lavender’s leaves and flowers contain linalool and linalyl acetate compounds that provide its scent. 'While this distinctive scent is pleasant to many, it’s too strong for fruit flies and acts as a natural repellent.'

Lavender needs a lot of light, so place it in a sunny spot. It’s ideal for a bright kitchen window. Water sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

We love the compact 'Hidcote' lavender, available from Nature Hills, which would look gorgeous in a sunny window box. Be sure to read up on how to prune lavender to keep it healthy for longer. The 'Sensational' lavender at Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees) is also ideal for containers.

4. Sage

Sage (Salvia officinalis) is a great herb for adding depth to savory dishes – particularly stuffing, roast meats, butter sauces and fall recipes. It is also useful to have on hand for Christmas cooking, so harvesting the herbs for Christmas cooking can help you make the most of your plant later in the year.

Its distinctive, aromatic foliage is also said to help repel fruit flies, making it another useful herb to have around the kitchen in late summer.

Sage is naturally well suited to sunny, dry conditions, so it is a relatively easy herb to grow provided you don't keep its roots too wet. Keep it somewhere with plenty of sunshine, whether that's a bright kitchen windowsill or a sunny spot outdoors, and grow it in free-draining compost.

Sage is drought-tolerant once established, so it is better to let the compost dry out slightly between waterings than to keep it constantly damp.

It's also a particularly attractive herb to grow in a pot, thanks to its soft grey-green foliage and pretty blue-purple flowers in summer. These flowers are popular with bees and other pollinating insects, giving sage an added wildlife benefit beyond its culinary uses.

Sage seeds are available to buy from Burpee.

5. Peppermint

The scent of peppermint is highly disliked by fruit flies, says Rebecca. What's more, she highlights how growing peppermint indoors and outdoors is easy, making it a great herb for beginner gardeners or home chefs who love to cook with fresh ingredients. It's also a lovely option if you're interested in growing your own herbal tea.

'Peppermint spreads horizontally, so choose a wide pot with good drainage to provide your plant with ample space,' Rebecca says. 'This plant also prefers a moderately humid environment and moist, but not soggy, soil.'

You can find organic peppermint seeds at True Leaf Market.

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Looking for more planting solutions to tackle unwanted bugs? These flowers to plant in a vegetable garden to deter pests are worth checking out – plus, they'll up the aesthetics of your homegrown patch.

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Chamomile has a secret power that many gardeners don’t realize. The herb is popular for flower beds, wildflower gardens, containers, and alternative lawns, and is commonly used in food, cosmetics, and herbal teas. What is less well-known about chamomile, though, is that it can be used as a homemade antifungal treatment.

Many gardeners who grow chamomile may pick flowers to brew a cup of soothing tea for themselves. Why not make some for your plants too? It might surprise you, but a diluted chamomile tea offers a natural preventative treatment for fungal diseases that may affect container plants and seedlings.

Chamomile is an easy herb to grow at home. A pack of chamomile seeds (you can get German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) seeds at Burpee) is a small investment for delicate, attractive daisy-like flowers you can use fresh or dried to brew to help you relax and sleep better and to make chamomile tea for plants to benefit from.

Harness the Natural Benefits of Chamomile Tea for Plants

Chamomile contains natural active compounds that have mild antifungal properties. Its tannic acids and compounds are most powerful when harnessed in essential oils. A herbal tea still contains them, albeit in a weaker form, but it can be enough to combat fungal issues that routinely damage plants.

The best way for gardeners to utilize the beneficial properties of chamomile tea for plants is to use it to prevent damping off. This common fungal disease affects seedlings and causes them to collapse and die. Damping off is usually common in spring, and you can quickly lose an entire tray.

Lightly watering seedlings with a weak brew of chamomile tea once a week combats the fungus that routinely causes damping off and keeps your seedlings safe. If you do spot the early signs of mold on seedlings, brew a fresh batch to stop the issue in its tracks and protect your early-season sowings.

Chamomile tea can also be used as a DIY natural antifungal treatment outside in the garden, especially when container plants transition from hot weather to large downpours.

Mark Dwelly, Head Gardener at Audley Stanbridge Earls, claims that container plants with dry foliage and roots are left ‘extremely vulnerable to fungal attacks’ when rain strikes, and brewing a chamomile tea can save them from harm.

‘Before predicted downpours arrive, brew a strong bucket of chamomile tea, let it cool completely, and pour it around the base of your potted plants,’ explains the experienced gardener.

‘Chamomile is a natural, mild fungicide rich in tannic acid; it acts like a stress-reliever for the root system, preventing damping off and root rot when cold rainwater suddenly floods the container.’

This quick job when preparing a yard for rain – a much-needed relief after summer heatwaves – is worth adding to a summer gardening checklist to prevent your potted plants from a nasty shock.

Growing Tips for Chamomile

German chamomile and common chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) are the most commonly grown types of chamomile that gardeners cultivate to grow their own herbal tea.

German chamomile plants are taller with larger blooms, while common chamomile is lower-growing and has smaller flowers. However, common chamomile (also known as Roman chamomile – you can get seeds at True Leaf Market) is a perennial plant compared to the annual German chamomile.

You can sow seeds indoors in spring into pots filled with seed compost (you can get bags of organic seed starting soil at Burpee) and transplant the seedlings outdoors into a sunny spot after the risk of frosts. This can be in a flower bed, herb garden, raised bed, or in pots as part of a container garden.

To make a chamomile tea for plants, pick young flowers throughout the summer blooming period. By picking and deadheading blooms (use a pair of pruning snips like these from Amazon), you’ll encourage lots more flowers and more harvests. You can use these flowers fresh or dried to make tea.

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Chamomile lawns have been around for centuries, but they are seeing a resurgence in recent years. More gardeners are starting to grow chamomile lawns as an alternative to high-maintenance turf to take advantage of the beauty that comes with a mat of fragrant foliage. Such a lawn also needs less water, no mowing, and supports lots of pollinators.

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Filling your home with fragrance is an easy way to create an inviting atmosphere, but keeping every room smelling just right can take a little effort and curation. So, what if your home fragrance could work smarter? With the new Pura Home Fragrance Diffuser, it can.

Featuring clean, long-lasting scents, smart controls, and adaptive diffusion that adjusts to the temperature in your home, it’s designed to fragrance rooms more intuitively than other diffuser devices. Simply choose your scent, set a schedule in the app or use the controls on the diffuser, and let it do the rest.

In fact, the Pura Home Fragrance Diffuser is one of the smartest and most convenient ways I've seen to make your home smell nice. With fall just around the corner, it's the perfect addition to nights spent unwinding on the couch or socializing around the candle-lit dinner table until late into the night.

I've often reached for the best essential oil diffusers as a flame-free way to scent my home. However, refilling the water tank, carefully dripping essential oils into the vessel, and remembering to clean it regularly can add up to quite a bit of maintenance, not to mention the risk of spills. With the Pura Home Fragrance Diffuser, you can enjoy all the easy features, with none of the risks or fussing.

Simply snap in up to two fragrance vials (sold separately − Ambered Topaz would be my pick for fall and winter), plug the diffuser into a wall outlet, and either control your diffuser using the physical buttons on the device, or navigate to the app on your phone. From there, you can also switch between fragrances whenever suits you, adjust the intensity, and set timers and schedules to suit you.

When you want to change the scents out completely (which I would do seasonally), the app automatically detects each fragrance for quick, seamless swaps. Each vial will last around three weeks in a medium-sized space, based on diffusing scent for six to eight hours per day at a medium intensity.

Impressively, the PuraHome Fragrance Diffuser showcases a glowing five-star rating across a staggering 51,770 Reviews.

'The thing I didn’t know I needed!,' enthuses verified shopper Erin. 'This is so easy and convenient; set schedules and intensities easily from the app.'

Another, Ashley, praises the easy, low-maintenance nature of this pick. 'I love that I can set it and forget it,' they say. 'Make the intensity of the fragrance as strong or as little as I want. The app is user-friendly, and the subscription for the scents makes my life that much easier,' as you can make sure you always have your favorites in stock and on hand.

The Pura Home also simplifies the ritual of evening scenting throughout fall, so much so that some shoppers have found a welcome home for more than one model from the Pura line-up in their space.

'Life changing!' commends William. 'We started with the single diffuser and enjoyed how it brought the room to life so much that we decided to upgrade to the Pura 4. Now we can have different scents for different times of the day, coming downstairs in the morning to one and returning from work in the evening to another.

'Best part is we moved the single Pura into the bedroom, and now we have a third, calming scent to help relax and unwind while going to bed.'

And, unlike others I've seen, with a sleek and subtle design, this plug-in won't disrupt your home decor. It's a simple switch to elevate your home scenting − and at just $49.99, it's a reasonably priced option to consider once gifting season arrives.

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For more home fragrancing inspiration, shop my handpicked selection of the best candles, best reed diffusers, and alternative electric diffusers below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

These simple ways to make your home smell like fall create an indulgent, cozy feel to welcome relaxation.

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Luxury in a bathroom usually conjures images of a freestanding tub, but the right shower design can feel just as elevated. The designer secret? A humble shower bench that blends style and function in one seamless feature.

It's an element often overlooked in shower ideas, but one that will transform your space from purely functional to truly luxurious and more purposeful. And designers say it's a feature worth adding, whether it's built-in or freestanding.

Here's why a shower bench is becoming the one feature you should never overlook, how to use them to add luxury, and the best buys if you need a freestanding option.

A bath was once considered non-negotiable in bathroom designs, but in recent years, showers have leveled up, bringing luxury and tranquility that fit seamlessly in schemes of every size. And part of that elevated look is the addition of a shower bench, creating a space to perch and lean on, as well as a more architectural feature.

'A shower bench is one of those elements that can be both highly practical and visually beautiful. It gives you a comfortable place to sit, makes everyday routines easier, and can also make the shower more accessible over time. From a design perspective, I love that it can become part of the architecture of the shower rather than simply an accessory,' says Nana Park of Nana & Nani Design.

In the past, shower benches were mainly added to help with access in later life (think plastic seats that fold up and down), and the designs focused purely on function. But now, we are seeing built-in benches made from beautiful stone, and even freestanding designs that bring a more organic detail. You still get the practical benefits, but they’re delivered more elegantly.

'A shower bench might seem like a small detail – until you have one. Most showers are designed around efficiency; you're in, you're out. A bench is one of those little architectural moments that makes a shower feel luxurious,' explains Justin Thomason, Co-founder and Director at West of Main Design, noting its importance in creating a more wellness-led, hotel-inspired space.

'Suddenly there's somewhere to sit while the steam builds, somewhere to prop a foot, somewhere to set a bar of soap down instead of balancing it on a ledge. It's one of the few additions that's genuinely both sculptural and useful, and helps make showers accessible for all ages and stages of life.'

The luxury comes from the materials used. A shower bench should feel like a seamless addition to your wash space, rather than an afterthought. For a built-in design, Nana recommends avoiding contrasting materials and embracing a more integrated look to create something that feels part of the room's architecture.

'We’re seeing a shift away from the accent tiles and contrasting finishes that were once commonly used to define shower features. Now, there’s a move toward material continuity – carrying the same stone or tile across the walls and onto the bench. It creates a quieter, more seamless look and allows the bench to feel integrated into the architecture rather than treated as a separate feature,' says Justin.

A built-in shower bench needs to be added during the renovation process, but if you aren't currently rethinking your entire bathroom design, you can still create a high-end look with freestanding pieces. In these cases, materiality is key, as is choosing a form that feels elevated, long-lasting, and in keeping with the rest of your shower design.

'A freestanding stool or bench is the easiest and most reversible option, and it can be genuinely beautiful rather than a compromise. If you’re low on space, you could even use a small marble side table. If you’re going freestanding, measure properly: leave the drain clear, and be sure to check the door swing,' Justin advises.

'Solid teak is the classic material choice for good reason – its natural oils make it dimensionally stable in constant humidity, and it silvers beautifully rather than degrading. There’s a reason they use teak on boats!' says Justin. 'Beyond wood, powder-coated or marine-grade stainless steel is excellent if you want something more architectural. Natural stone or quartz are also great options. Whatever you choose, let it dry between uses and oil the wood once or twice a year.'

A freestanding shower bench doesn't have to be neutral. If you're adding it to a colorful bathroom, or even a neutral scheme in need of something more vibrant, certain materials can offer a bolder hue. 'I especially like sculptural, contemporary plastic or resin stools – something that feels more like a design object than a traditional shower seat. It can introduce color, shape and personality into an otherwise neutral bathroom, and because it’s lightweight, it can easily move in and out of the shower as needed,' Nana explains.

The key to a successful freestanding shower bench lies in the maintenance. For most materials, this means placement and cleaning. 'A teak bench can add needed warmth to a space. They will last longer if you keep them out of the way of the shower stream if there's space and squeegee them off when wet,' says interior designer Sarah Montgomery.

Shop Freestanding Shower Benches

A shower bench is a small but impactful addition to your bathroom, and one designers say is worth introducing. If you're buying a freestanding design, consider the materials and ensure they are suitable for use within a shower.

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You can't fail to notice Gaillardia, with its bold daisy-like blooms tinted in yellow and red. A US native, these short-lived perennials are easy-going, thrive in heat and need little water once established. Flowering non-stop from mid- summer through to the first frosts, it deserves a spot in every sunny yard.

Commonly known as blanket flower, there are two varieties native to the US - Gaillardia pulchella throughout eastern, central, and southwestern US and Gaillardia aristata across Illinois, Oklahoma, and most of the western US. Well adapted to thriving in the hot and dusty grasslands and prairies, these hard working plants are brilliant for dense ground cover, self seeding and supporting wildlife.

Growing blanket flower really couldn't be easier and with very little effort, it will reward you with showy blooms for months on end. In fact, even knowing how to deadhead blanket flowers is optional. You can find Gaillardia seeds at True Leaf Market or find seeds for the Arizona series with their double blooms at Burpee.

Why You Should Grow Gaillardia In Your Yard

No yard should be without blanket flower in late summer and when heading into fall. ‘Gaillardia is such an easy, joyful garden contributor. It pulls in the bees and butterflies and cut flower enthusiasts alike with its long bloom time’ says landscape designer, Stacilyn Feldman.

With it's bi-colored flowers in red and yellow, gaillardia radiates cheer amongst sun-ripened grasses and other fading summer blooms. ‘Blanket flower is one of those dependable native plants that truly shines during the hottest part of the growing season. To get the most from it, plant it in full sun with well-drained soil and avoid overwatering or fertilizing’, suggests Mary Phillips, Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation.

Reaching heights of 2-3ft (61-91cm) with a spread of 2ft (61cm) these native varieties need regular watering and feeding during their first year, but will happily cope with drought conditions thereafter. Compact varieties are also available, and are perfect for containers and bedding displays.

'Annual blanket flower can be planted by seed in the fall and can bloom as early as the following spring,' says Mary. This plant is also a prolific self seeder, meaning that those seeds not eaten by birds will germinate and establish the following spring unaided.

Plant expert Laura Coggan also adds, 'Galliardia 'Spintop™ Mariachi Copper Sun' Improved is also worth mentioning where wildlife value is a priority. It is a compact, densely branching plant with strong stems and a particularly long, heavy flowering period. Its nectar and pollen-rich flowers attract bees and butterflies, while the seedheads are attractive to birds including goldfinches.' You can find this variety of blanket flower at Park Seed.

Looking After Your Gaillardia

Easy going and requiring little intervention - apart from in their first year - these long performing plants are essential in any low maintenance yard or pollinator garden. ‘It is relatively disease resistant and not usually susceptible to deer or rabbits’, says landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman .

'Blanket flower evolved in open prairies, grasslands, and sandy habitats where intense sunlight, high temperatures, and periodic drought are common,' says Mary. 'Deep root systems help the plant conserve water and bloom even during summer droughts. . 'It performs best in lean, well-drained soils, including sandy or gravelly sites, and does not tolerate poorly drained or consistently wet conditions.'

Although the lance-shaped, green-gray foliage is pretty unremarkable; including the slightly bristly leaves of the common blanket flower, it does form dense ground cover helping suppress weeds, conserve moisture and offering wildlife shelter. 'Plant blanket flower in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day,' advises Mary.

As long as it is not planted in rich, fertile soil, gaillardia will bloom non-stop from June to October. 'Deadheading will prolong flowering, so faded blooms can be cut back to a healthy leaf or side shoot through summer,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'As fall approaches, leave some later flowerheads intact. This lets seed develop for birds while the remaining flowers continue to provide nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies.'

Aid good drainage by adding fine grade pea gravel from Walmart and make deadheading quick and easy with these Fiskars Pruning Snips from Amazon.

What To Plant Alongside Gaillardia

As a cheery flower in sunset shades, blanket flower can prove a challenge to work with. Leaving it to colonise large areas will create a showstopping late summer display, but there are other considered options too.

'Pick sympatico warm hued blooms like Sedum, Coreopsis, Achillea and ornamental grasses,' says Stacilyn. 'I’m partial to Panicum ‘Cape Breeze' - to pair with this garden workhorse.'

Due to its late flowering season, this resilient plant is one of the best to attract hummingbirds plus it's hugely valuable in to beneficial insects and pollinators too. Team it with like-minded flowers as part of a drought tolerant pollinator garden. 'Pairing blanket flower with other native species that bloom before and after it creates a continuous source of nectar for pollinators throughout the growing season,' adds Mary.

Sun loving shrubs such as rosemary, lavender and bottle brush are perfect companions to showy blanket flowers and make a statement as part of a Mediterranean garden or xeriscape. No surprise, but these prairie blooms also work with a mix of airy perennials and grasses too, including tickseed, coneflower, stipa, rudbeckia and blue-silver stemmed Russian sage.

For a simple and no-effort plant combination try the Native Western Xeriscape Wildflower Seed Mix from American Meadows.

Impressed how blanket flower can extend your yard's floral charm, take it even further with these best fall-flowering perennials.

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Most gardeners are guilty of accumulating lots of gear, from lawn mowers and hedge trimmers to hand tools, fertilizers, and compost. If you are short of space, savvy gardeners look to make the most of their sheds with space-saving tools.

If you only have a small shed, you don’t want items clogging up the valuable floor space. So think smart when it comes to your shed ideas. Clever tools like racks, shelving, and pegboards make the most of vertical surfaces and are ideal for all manner of hand tools, pots, compost, and fertilizers, while smaller items can go in stackable boxes to save space and be easy to find.

Keeping the floor clear of anything but the largest items, like the lawn mower or wheelbarrow, helps the shed remain organized. If you want to declutter your shed, here are our picks of five small garden shed storage must-haves that take your space from messy to meticulous. If you have or plan to buy a small shed (such as this 5 x 3 ft metal shed at The Home Depot), these can make a big difference.

1. Tool Rack

A wall-mounted garden tool rack holds many essential gardening tools and is one of the most efficient storage ideas for sheds.

Your spades, forks, rakes, and garden hoes can all hang on hooks for easy storage. It turns shed walls, which often go unused, into valuable storage space and stops the tools from ending up in a disorganized pile.

Tools left cluttering up the floor become unsightly and potentially dangerous – you can all-too-easily stand on an upturned end of a rake, hoe, or cultivator and get hit in the face by the handle.

Don’t make the tool storage mistake of leaving tools abandoned on the ground. Having a secure spot on the wall (like this garden tool storage rack at The Home Depot) to hang your tools is an efficient way to make the most of limited space.

2. Compact Tool Organizer

An alternative to using hooks to increase storage is to use a compact garden tool holder. This is an option if you are unsure about adding too much weight to your shed walls.

A tool holder has many slots into which you can fit long-handled tools like rakes, spades, forks, hoes, and brooms. You can store many tools in a compact footprint in a shed corner. Some also come with additional side hooks for hanging smaller tools on, like pruning shears, a trowel, or gardening gloves.

3. Wall-Mounted Shelving

One of my small garden shed storage must-haves is shelving. It helps clear more floor space, makes use of bare walls, and can hold many bulky items.

Shelves can be a go-to option for spare pots, bags of potting mix, and different fertilizers or garden sprays. Raising items used frequently during the season puts them at eye level and somewhere easy to grab.

It stops you losing them underneath or behind other tools or items on the floor, and you can group them by type on the shelf. I know I have accidentally bought fertilizers again thinking I was out, only to find a previously opened bottle tucked away that I hadn’t seen.

You can get wood, metal, or plastic shed or garage shelves in different sizes, depending on the material of your shed and how much you want to store.

4. Multi-Tier Shelving Units

There is a compact alternative to wall-mounted shelves, too. Multi-tier shelving units are perfect if you can't put up shelves, as they still offer valuable vertical storage without a large footprint. They are ideal for storing pots, compost, fertilizers, etc., keeping them organized and easy to find.

A good example is this six-tier shelving unit from The Home Depot. It is made of sturdy steel and measures 18” (W) x 72" (H) x 18” (D).

5. Metal Pegboard

A wall pegboard offers a strong, durable, and tailored way to store your smaller hand tools and pruning tools. It is a great place to hang pruning shears, pruning snips, garden scissors, and small tools like hammers, wrenches, and screwdrivers for any garden DIY.

Pegboards come in various sizes and can be plastic or wooden. However, the best option for a small garden shed is a metal pegboard that offers much more strength and protection for your tools.

The versatility of a pegboard means you can customize the pegs and hooks to fit your tools and optimize the space in the way that works best for you.

6. Stackable Boxes

A simple storage idea for sheds that never fails to make a difference is to put all your smaller items together in clear stackable boxes.

There is no end to the different bits and pieces you may gather over the years. Pots, seed trays, gardening gloves, dibbers, tape measures, plant labels, string, plant ties – the list could go on and on. And then there are spare parts for your garden hoses, drip irrigation systems, or sprinkler attachments. All of these miscellaneous items want to be stored somewhere dry, rather than left to take up space on floors, tables, or shelves.

Gardeners can stack the boxes to save space, and clear ones allow you to see the contents. To help with your shed organization, label each box to make finding items easier with a label maker (available from Walmart, too). When things do get messy, you can declutter a shed in under 30 minutes by putting wanted items into their boxes and discarding others.

7. Magnetic Tool Strip

A compact alternative for organizing your smaller tools is a magnetic tool holder. One of the garden shed storage must-haves, it attaches to the wall and securely holds metal tools to the strong magnetic strip that runs along the bar.

It can easily hold pruning shears, garden knives, trowels, or forks, which is far better than them clogging up surfaces in the shed. It won’t take up much wall space and is super quick and easy to attach or detach the tools from the magnetic holder.

You can get a 12-inch magnetic tool bar at Lowe's that securely holds up to 10lb.

Alongside these small garden shed storage must-haves, you may need to leave some space to store a lawn mower. However, there are common lawn mower storage mistakes to avoid making, as they can break your machine.

This includes storing gas mowers vertically or on their side, which can cause fuel to leak or engine oil to seep into the air filter, which is a common reason why gas lawn mowers won’t start.

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Making a kitchen feel stylish and inviting looks different through the seasons. In the summer, it's all about letting natural light take the lead and creating a connection between indoors and out. But for fall, it's all about adding warmth. And one of the most impactful ways to do it is through your kitchen lighting. Blending functional needs with atmospheric design, even the most subtle lighting alterations can take your kitchen from harsh to warm.

With the 'ber months in sight, now is the perfect time to update your kitchen lighting to create a warm and cozy (yet still functional) space for fall. Here's how designers infuse much-needed warmth through small but impactful lighting changes.

Unlike other rooms in the home, your kitchen lighting needs to be functional for food prep, cooking, and cleaning. But it also needs to adapt for other uses, whether it's hosting, socializing, or even relaxing after a long day. With varied needs, your lighting scheme needs to work harder and be more versatile to avoid a cold, sterile atmosphere. And designers say there are a few key culprits causing harsh lighting.

'A kitchen can start to feel harsh when it relies too heavily on one type of lighting, especially bright overhead recessed lights. Cooler bulb temperatures, too many ceiling fixtures, and a lack of dimmers can make a space feel more clinical than inviting. Kitchens also have so many hard, reflective surfaces, so the wrong lighting can easily amplify that,' explains Kailee Blalock, Co-Founder of House of Hive Design Co.

'Most kitchens are lit entirely from the ceiling. Every source is overhead, so you get shadows under the wall cabinets, shadows on people’s faces, and a dark band around the perimeter of the room. The finishes can be beautiful, and the space still reads flat,' agrees Michael Winn, Owner and Principal at WINN Design + Build.

But more often than not, it's the bulbs that cause the most coldness in a kitchen, specifically the temperature. When we think of warm lighting, there's usually more of an orange glow than a white or blue one – a detail that depends on the bulb temperatures you introduce. 'A lot of kitchens get built with recessed lights at 3500K or 4000K, which is closer to office lighting than home lighting. Put that above a polished quartz counter, and all of it bounces straight back at you,' Michael explains.

'Bulbs rated high on the Kelvin scale (4000K to 5000K+) emit a stark, blue-toned light similar to commercial or office lighting. While high Kelvin ratings work well for intense task zones, in a residential kitchen they drain the warmth from cabinetry, wash out natural wood tones, and create unflattering shadows,' adds Shannon Kadwell, Kitchen and Bath Director at Anthony Wilder Design Build.

A lot of these details don't become obvious until you reach the darker, colder months, as you rely less on lighting during the summer when natural daylight does all the heavy lifting. But as soon as those darker evenings draw in, stark or underwhelming lighting will become glaringly obvious. For Pooky's Chief Creative Officer, Jo Plant, a successful kitchen lighting scheme ahead of fall is about a balance of function and ambiance. 'The key is to avoid treating kitchen lighting as purely functional; it should add atmosphere as well as provide practical illumination.'

5 Ways to Make Your Kitchen Lighting Warmer for Fall

The slow shift from summer to fall is one of the most noticeable in our homes, especially as evenings grow darker and light disappears much sooner. And as a functional and social space, your kitchen lighting is one of the first details you need to adapt for the season. 'As we move into fall, kitchen lighting becomes particularly important,' says Jo.

'As the days get shorter and natural light starts to fade earlier, a kitchen that felt bright and welcoming in summer can suddenly feel quite stark.' It's easy to give your kitchen lighting a warmer, cozier update for fall. It doesn't require a full replan, nor does it need to cost a fortune – the subtle changes are the most impactful. These are the 5 worth trying this year.

1. Switch to Warmer Bulb Temperatures

One of the key elements that makes your kitchen lighting feel harsh is using bulbs that are too bright and too cool-toned. As we head towards fall, swapping these harsher bulbs out for softer, warmer alternatives makes a huge difference to the atmosphere of your cooking space.

'To instantly soften the space, shift your bulbs down to a lower color temperature – specifically around 2400K to 2700K. A 2400K bulb delivers a rich, golden warmth that closely mimics the cozy glow of traditional incandescent bulbs,' Shannon explains. 'Swapping overhead recessed cans or under-cabinet task fixtures to this warmer range transforms the kitchen’s ambiance, making island seating and open-plan prep areas feel inviting as the days grow shorter.'

You can find light bulbs in this Kelvin range in most stores, including Amazon, for easy ordering and delivery. These LED Dimmable Edison Light Bulbs made from amber glass offer a warm white glow, while these A19 Vintage LED Edison Light Bulbs offer a more retro look.

2. Look to Lower-Height Lighting

The focus in a kitchen often lands on the ceiling fixtures, but taking the time to edit your lower-level lighting is often more impactful. It's the lights that sit below eye level, like cabinet lighting and lamps, that bring a warmer feel as fall approaches.

'The move most people skip is light below eye level. Undercabinet strips, a pair of sconces, even a small plug-in lamp at the end of a counter. Low light is what makes a kitchen feel like a room instead of a workspace,' says Michael.

If you're looking for easy, affordable changes, a countertop lamp is always a stylish addition. 'A great option is to add a lamp on the countertop that has a fun shade and keep it on through the winter. It feels really lovely to have a lamp lit during those darker afternoons and evenings and invites you into the space,' adds interior designer Jess Cooney.

3. Take Note of Bulb Types and Styles

While the temperature of the light bulbs you choose is an important factor to consider when swapping to warmer lighting for fall, so are the bulb types. It seems like such a minor detail, but one that changes the way light diffuses around the kitchen.

'As we transition into fall, swap out standard glass or exposed-bulb fixtures for LED filament 'Edison' bulbs. Modern LED Edison bulbs combine energy efficiency with classic aesthetic appeal, offering clear or amber-tinted glass and visible glowing filaments,' Shannon explains.

It's one of those details that instantly makes your kitchen lighting feel more considered and design-led. It's a bit like swapping out your outlet and switch plates for something more elevated. 'They emit a deep, cozy amber radiance that pairs beautifully with autumnal textures, rich cabinet finishes, and natural stone countertops,' she adds.

4. Consider Putting Kitchen Lighting on Dimmers

If there's one piece of advice designers always give, it's to put kitchen lighting on dimmers. It's the easiest and most effective way to take your lighting scheme from functional to ambient, bright to softly moody.

'Dimmers are another simple but transformative addition, allowing you to turn the brightness down as the evening progresses and instantly shift the mood from practical to atmospheric,' says Jo. Although this is a step to consider during a larger project, it's one experts say you won't regret. And for maximum impact, avoid putting every light in the kitchen on one switch.

'Our designers separate the ceiling lights from the pendants and the under-cabinet lighting so you can run the room at thirty percent on a Tuesday night without lighting it like you’re prepping Thanksgiving dinner. If you’re replacing fixtures anyway, look at dim-to-warm LEDs. They drop towards 2200K as you dim them, the way an incandescent used to,' Michael advises.

When the overhead lighting is on a dimmer, you can utilize different light sources throughout the day, and let decorative lighting take over. 'As the days get shorter, we naturally start relying less on bright overhead lighting and more on the decorative and ambient layers. We’ll dim the ceiling lights and let pendants, sconces, and other smaller fixtures create pockets of warmth throughout the room,' says Kailee.

'We love when a kitchen feels a little moodier in the fall! You still need functional task lighting when cooking, but the entire room doesn’t need to be illuminated at the same intensity.' If you do add dimmers, make sure to add elevated switch plates, like this Classic Toggle & Dimmer from Rejuvenation, or add autumnal color with Anthropologie's Merritt Enamel Switch Plate.

5. Create a Layered Approach

Fall conjures images of cozy interiors, and nothing brings that feeling to life quite like layered kitchen lighting. Categorize your various fixtures into task, ambient, and accent lighting, often referred to as the kitchen lighting rule of 3, to balance function and atmosphere, and remember to think beyond your typical ceiling lights.

'The easiest way to soften a kitchen is to introduce more layers of light. Rather than relying solely on ceiling spots or a central pendant, combine practical task lighting with softer, ambient sources. Wall lights, under-cabinet lighting and small table lamps can all help to create pockets of warmth and make the room feel more inviting,' says Jo.

'Layering is particularly effective at this time of year. Keep your brighter task lighting available for cooking and food preparation, but switch to softer pools of light when you’re entertaining or settling in for the evening. It’s these smaller, lower-level sources that create that lovely cocooning feeling we all crave as the nights draw in.'

Your kitchen walls are a great way to bring in a new layer of lighting – an area that is often overlooked. 'Any spot you can add a sconce really creates a soft enveloping feel in the evening when you are sitting and having a cup of tea at your breakfast table,' says Jess. But you can also look beyond the obvious kitchen fixtures and introduce softer lighting more typical of a living room or bedroom.

'Incorporating picture lighting above artwork helps to make spaces feel more intimate, warm, and personal,' says Kelly Emerson, Senior Designer at Aidan Design. 'Investing in unique table and floor lamps with warm shades and warm color temperature bulbs will certainly bring a fall refresh you’re looking for! Any chance to layer multiple sources of lighting will bring sophistication and mood.'

Taking a layered approach to kitchen lighting as we head towards fall works because it can be easily edited as seasons change, rather than being suitable for just one quarter of the year. 'One of our favorite things about a layered lighting plan is that you can change the feeling of the kitchen seasonally without actually changing the design. In summer, natural light can take the lead; in fall and winter, the warmer decorative lighting becomes much more noticeable and creates that cozy, intimate feeling,' Kailee notes.

While kitchen lighting is functional, it's also a decorative detail that can make or break the entire mood of the room. As fall approaches, it's all about coziness and warmth – two things the right lighting can create effortlessly.

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Fall is just around the corner and for us keen gardeners, that means just one thing: a busy gardening season is about to begin. From bulb planting to pruning and giving our lawns some TLC, there's so much to get done over the next couple of months.

Before ticking anything off your fall gardening checklist, you need to gather some essential gardening tools. Whether you've got lots to plant, need to do some fall pruning, or are planning to collect seeds for next year, there's a plethora of tools to help you get the job done with ease.

But, you don't want to just buy any cheap tools that will need replacing after one seasons, it's always best to invest in durable tools that last for many years. To help you find exactly what you need, we've compiled our top tools for fall gardening.

Bulb Planting

One of the main tasks to get done this season is planting bulbs. But, this can be a particularly tiring and time-consuming job to do.

Luckily, there are several bulb planting tools you can use to make it easier – from bulb planters that cut a perfect hole for planting into, to trowels with a depth marker. You may even want to pick up a hori hori knife which can be used for planting, pruning, and more around the yard.

Just take care to avoid bulb planting mistakes to avoid disappointment come spring.

Leaf Collecting

While there are many benefits of not over-tidying your yard in fall (plant debris provides shelter and food sources for wildlife), excessive fallen leaves can smother your lawn and cause a bigger mess to clean up.

But, you shouldn't just dispose of fallen leaves, there are lots of things you can do with them. For example, you can make leaf mold and use them for mulching to keep plants insulated over winter.

Whatever you plan to do with fallen leaves, these tools make sweeping them up much quicker.

Lawn Care

There are quite a few fall lawn care tasks to tick off in the next couple of months. This includes dethatching your lawn, aerating your lawn, and overseed your lawn.

It's essential not to skip out on these tasks, otherwise your lawn won't necessarily come back greener and thicker in spring.

There are several specialized tools to help you get your lawn in shape before frost hits. Each one makes tasks quicker, more convenient, and less fatiguing.

Fall Pruning

There quite a few specific plants to prune in October – including deadheading and pruning tree branches – all of which need different essential pruning tools.

You need to ensure whichever tools you use are sharp and clean to protect your plants' health and stop the spread of pests and diseases.

Of course, you may also want to leave some faded seedheads for architectural and wildlife value in your fall garden, so be selective about what you remove.

Collecting Seeds

One of the most enjoyable fall gardening tasks is collecting seeds from faded blooms to save and plant next year.

But, it's important to wait until your plants with seedheads have turned brown and dried, as this indicates the seeds are ripe and ready for harvesting.

Likewise, you need to store seeds properly to keep them viable – ideally somewhere dry, dark, and cool, like in a seed tin.

Fall Weeding

It can be a fall gardening mistake to not get rid of weeds, as many weed seeds can overwinter and take over your yard come spring.

The good news is, there are plenty of ways to kill weeds in fall and remove them for good. This includes using weeding tools to pull them up by the root.

Soil Preparation

After a long, dry summer our soil health appreciates a bit of TLC to rejuvenate before winter arrives.

It's important to loosen compacted soil to prevent surface water run-off in fall, and to ensure it's aerated for plant roots to have access to oxygen.

Likewise, it's a good time to test your soil and see if it has any nutrient deficiencies and improve your garden soil accordingly to support the growth of new plants you add to your yard this season.

With your tools for fall gardening in hand, you can start preparing your yard for the incoming season. This includes doing the August garden reset that means less work in fall and working through your August planting list to ensure an abundant fall display.

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A south-facing windowsill can be one of the most challenging spots in the house for a houseplant. With strong natural light throughout the day, all that sunshine can turn a windowsill into a surprisingly hot microclimate, especially in the summer. While plenty of popular houseplants will scorch, fade or become stressed in these conditions, others are perfectly happy to bask in the rays.

The trick is to choose plants that are naturally suited to intense light. Many of the best candidates are succulents and other plants adapted to bright, sunny environments, but they're not the only options. Some foliage plants actually grow their best form when given more light than they're commonly thought to need.

That doesn't mean you can put any plant in a sunny window and forget about it, however. Plants accustomed to lower light should always be transitioned gradually, and even sun-loving houseplants can be damaged if foliage is pressed directly against hot glass. With a little knowledge on how to grow houseplants, you can leave these seven plants on a south-facing windowsill even when summer temperatures soar. There are lots of beautiful sun-loving houseplants available at The Home Depot.

1. Snake Plants

Snake plants (Dracaena spp.) are often recommended for low-light corners, but that's not necessarily where they'll be happiest. In fact, a bright south-facing window can encourage stronger growth and better coloration, particularly in the more highly variegated forms.

‘Snake plants typically grow in direct sun exposure in their native habitats, but they've been sold to you as low-light plants,’ said horticulturist and author Leslie Halleck. ‘Species in the Dracaena genus that fall into the snake plant group will grow more vigorously and maintain better variegation patterns when kept in a south facing window with more light, versus a low-light corner.

Species that fall into the corn plant group fair better if you pull them back a foot or so from a bright southern window.’

2. Jade Plant

The jade plant (Crassula ovata) is another natural choice for a sunny windowsill. These succulents need plenty of light to develop the sturdy, compact growth that makes them so attractive. Insufficient light can result in weak, stretched growth and can also contribute to problems with the roots.

‘Most jade plants kept indoors end up spindly and can rot easily at the root zone due to low light conditions,’ Halleck said. ‘If you want a sturdy jade plant with a thick truck that might even bloom for you, a southern window that offers up at least six hours of sunlight is best.’

As with other succulents, don't assume that lots of sun means lots of water. Allow the growing medium to dry between waterings rather than keeping the roots continually damp. A moisture meter such as the Luster Leaf Digital Moisture Meter found at Ace Hardware can take some of the guesswork out of knowing when your jade plant needs a drink.

3. Ponytail Palm

With its swollen, water-storing trunk and fountain of narrow leaves, ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is practically made for a bright windowsill. It's also a good choice if you want something with more architectural presence than a small succulent.

Houseplant specialist and author Lisa Eldred Steinkopf recommends ponytail palm for a southern window, noting that inadequate light can actually affect its form. ‘If this plant receives too little light, the top of the plant will not stay upright as it should. It will stretch for the light.’

Its ability to store water in the swollen base of its trunk also makes it relatively forgiving if you occasionally forget to water. Give it a sunny situation and use a well-draining potting mix, and it can remain in place throughout summer.

4. Hoya

Hoyas are another option for a sunny windowsill, particularly if you'd like a houseplant that can eventually reward you with flowers. These plants are often grown for their attractive, sometimes succulent foliage as well as their clusters of blooms.

Steinkopf notes that hoyas can show some signs of stress when exposed to strong sun, but that isn't necessarily a reason to move them away from the window. ‘They may get a bit sun-stressed, but it doesn’t hurt them, and they bloom!’

It’s okay if your hoya experiences a little sun stress, especially when the alternative is insufficient light. As always, watch the plant’s foliage for signs of actual scorching, and move it slightly back from the glass. Placing your hoya on a plant stand such as the Alfie-Thomas Plant Stand found at Wayfair can let you easily move the plant as the sun changes position in the sky with the season.

5. Croton

If your idea of a successful houseplant includes plenty of color, croton (Codiaeum variegatum) is the houseplant for you. Its brightly colored foliage can lose intensity when the plant doesn't receive enough light, making a sunny window an excellent location.

‘If they don’t have full sun, they will lose their vibrant colors,’ Steinkopf stated. She has a warning about them, though: ‘Don’t let them dry out, or they will get spider mites and drop their leaves.’ A narrow-spout watering can such as the Fiskars Plastic Watering Can found at Target makes it easier to deliver water directly to the soil without disturbing the foliage.

The warning about moisture is particularly important during hot weather. A south-facing window can increase evaporation, so check the pot’s soil regularly.

6. Yucca

Yucca brings a completely different look to a sunny window, with stiff, upright foliage that gives it a distinct structural appearance. It also makes a strong statement even without flowers.

Steinkopf's assessment is straightforward: ‘It’s not my favorite plant, but it is very architectural, and some people like that in a modern home. It is perfect for a southern window.’

7. Bird of Paradise

Bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) is the choice for anyone with a large, bright south-facing window and ambitions for a substantial houseplant. Although it's frequently grown indoors for its dramatic foliage, it needs considerably more light than many homes provide if you want it to thrive, especially if you're hoping for flowers.

‘I see a lot of plant parents trying to keep them indoors hoping they will bloom,’ Halleck observed. ‘If you have a big southern window that gets bright sun all day, this is your best spot for a bird of paradise. Otherwise, light levels in most homes are just too low for these plants to thrive.’

A Note About South-Facing Windows

Even the most sun-loving houseplant isn't completely immune to a sudden change in conditions. If a plant has been living in lower light, don't move it straight into an intense southern exposure when summer arrives.

‘In general, if you want to keep succulents and cacti happy as indoor houseplants, a south-facing window without any major obstructions that provides more intense sunlight through the day is best,’ Halleck suggested.

‘That said, any plant that has been kept in lower light conditions needs to be gradually transitioned back into higher light intensity to avoid scorch or leaf drop. And any leaves directly touching the glass may burn even if it's a high-light plant.’

What to Shop

A south-facing window doesn't have to be a houseplant danger zone. Choose plants that appreciate direct light, give them good drainage and keep an eye on watering, and that challenging sunny spot can become one of the easiest places in your home to grow healthy, attractive houseplants.

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At the end of the summer, most climbing plants have seen a huge growth spurt and can look a little wild. Obviously, when, where and how to snip them depends on the species, but most need some cutting back.

Even different varieties and groups within a species can require different treatment – and it can be easy to inadvertently snip next year's growth. It's no surprise the thought of pruning fast-growing climbing plants can strike fear into the hearts of even experienced gardeners. However, it's not always necessary to call in the professionals to tackle this task (unless you want to).

With a little know-how and the right tools, like these classic Felco F6 pruners from Lowe's, it's possible to cut back climbers and encourage better blooms. From clematis and climbing roses to wisteria and jasmine, discover the cuts experts suggest.

1. Clematis

With clematis it's essential to know which type you are pruning, but most can be trimmed at this time. Clematis are categorized into three groups based on when they bloom: group 1 for spring blooms, group 2 for repeat bloomers, and group 3 for late summer blooms.

'When and how to prune clematis depends heavily on which group it falls into,' says Kevin Lenhart, Design Director & Landscape Architect, Yardzen.

'However, for any clematis group, right now it’s safe to deadhead spent flowers, cut back dead or sick stems, and prune or redirect errant growth.'

Kevin recommends using clean, sharp bypass pruners rather than anvil-style pruners. 'The latter tend to crush stems,' he says. 'Disinfect your tools when you switch plants, as dirty tools can easily spread clematis wilt.'

This 70% isopropyl alcohol antiseptic from Target can be used to clean blades.

'Beyond this selective care, you need to consider which particular Clematis you’re working with before you start any hard pruning.'

Kevin explains that for groups 1 and 2, late summer maintenance should stick to light, selective shaping, deadheading, and protecting healthy new growth.

The later blooming group 3 clematis produce blooms on new growth, rather than on old wood like groups 1 and 2. That means there is less concern about accidentally losing your blooms due to overzealous pruning.

'Despite this lower risk to late summer pruning, the best window for hard pruning for group 3 clematis is in late winter, around February,' says Kevin.

2. Jasmine

The rule of thumb with jasmine is to prune just after it is done flowering. Pruning this way allows you to reshape the plant while still preserving plenty of time for new flowering wood to grow in.

'For Star Jasmine, that’s in the summer,' says Kevin. 'For Pink Jasmine, that’s a bit earlier, in the late spring. For the late blooming Common Jasmine (Jasminum officinale), whose main flowering season winds down in late summer to early fall, we are entering prime pruning season.

'The longer you wait after flowering to prune, the more new growth you will remove, resulting in diminished blooms the following year. Although, with any jasmine vine, you can always trim out dead, sick, or damaged plant material, regardless of the season.'

When pruning jasmine, Kevin recommends seeking to thin out congested masses, rather than cut back too heavily.

'This encourages more light penetration, which leads to more profuse blooms,' he says. 'Preserve the main structure, and trim back long, errant shoots to properly direct new growth.

'Equally important is training the vine, untangling old shoots and tying in new growth. Like thinning out knotty masses, retraining jasmine results in better exposure to light and airflow, contributing to more uniform growth and more abundant blooms.'

Larger plants may need support from a trellis, like this one from Ace Hardware. This green garden twine from Ace Hardware blends into the background when tying vines.

3. Climbing Roses

It's a similar story with climbing roses, which usually require a tidy and a trim at the end of the summer, rather than hard pruning, which is best done in the winter.

'With climbing roses, think about selective and strategic pruning at the end of the summer, rather than giving the whole plant a haircut,' says landscape designer, Kat Aul Cervoni, founder Staghorn Living.

'First, I like to remove anything dead, damaged, diseased, or very weak. Then work on maintaining the main framework and tying wayward canes back onto the support.

'Training long canes more horizontally can also encourage more flowering shoots. Remember, pruning often stimulates new growth, so don’t worry if it looks a little sparse just after - it’ll catch back up in fullness again soon.'

Kat likes to use clean, sharp pruners for most smaller stems. 'These are great for dexterity and precise pruning,' she says.

For thicker woody growth, she moves up to loppers or a pruning saw – again clean and sharp. 'They're better than struggling through with undersized tools and leaving a ragged cut which looks bad and and can lead to disease.'

These Fiskars loppers from Lowe's can cut cleanly through branches.

4. Wisteria

Wisteria benefits from a much more deliberate pruning routine with two strategic cutbacks a year, one in late summer and another harder pruning in the winter.

'In summer, go after those long, whippy shoots after it’s finished flowering and do what you can to guide it into the supports you have for it,' says Kat. 'After you remove the obvious problem material first, then it’s easy to step back and reassess. Often a climber needs much less pruning than you initially think.'

Don't confuse pruning with training wisteria or other twining vines, cautions Kat. 'If a climber looks messy, sometimes the solution isn't removing more growth,' says Kat.

'Instead, try untangling stems, tying them back to a trellis or wire system, and directing new growth where you want it. It can make the entire plant look tidier while preserving flowers.'

Kat finds this is particularly true for the fast-growing twining vines like clematis and wisteria vs clinging vines like virginiana creeper or climbing hydrangea.

The other big pruning is done while the plant is dormant in late winter.

'This pruning protocol helps control what can otherwise become a very vigorous, aggressive (and even invasive) plant while encouraging flowering closer to the main framework,' she says.

What to Shop

Other types of fast-growing climbers can benefit from similar treatment. A general rule of thumb for pruning all plants is that dead, damaged, and diseased growth is generally the safest place to begin.

Even if this is all you prune away, it will be beneficial to the plant – and you won't risk killing next year's growth.

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You know what the adage says: the early bird catches the worm. It can apply to gardening, as popular varieties of bulbs can sell out fast – and you don’t want to lose out. If you are seeking the absolute earliest spring color, we look at some of the best flower bulbs to order in August to brighten up your garden early in the year.

A wide range of spring bulbs are commonly available to order come late August, and the most in-demand ones may disappear quickly. Early-flowering bulbs are always very popular as they provide welcome color in late winter and early spring. Crocus, iris, snowdrops, chionodoxa, and eranthis are among the best spring bulbs to sparkle in the early months. If you want your pick of these, it pays to move quickly.

Early shoppers need to be patient, as bulbs purchased in late summer must be stored in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant them, which starts in September. But do get prepared, like arming yourself with a bulb planter (I like this Japanese bulb planter at True Leaf Market) to make planting bulbs quicker and easier. Then you can sit back and wait for a dazzling early display next year.

Winter Aconite

Eranthis Hyemalis (Winter Aconite) can be a real treat for the eyes when its buttercup-yellow blooms appear in late winter to early spring. There were small clusters of winter aconite in one historic garden I worked in, and the sight of those pops of bright yellow was always a welcome treat during a long, cold winter.

The small blooms can be seen as early as January in some areas, providing a spark of bright color when little else is out in a garden. When the winter flowers reach their peak, they can create a stunning carpet of yellow when planted in clusters.

Winter aconites are natural woodland plants and prefer a sunny spot or some dappled shade. They are great for a woodland garden, wildflower meadow, or for planting under shrubs or trees, where they can enjoy some winter sun before the trees leaf out.

You can buy quantities of Eranthis Hyemalis bulbs at Dutch Grown

Crocus ‘Orange Monarch’

Crocuses usually start flowering from February into March. You commonly see crocuses blooming in different shades of yellow, white, and purple. However, Crocus ‘Orange Monarch’ is a rare type with deep orange flowers. Such rarity will make it popular, so act quickly if you want to order bulbs for your garden.

Crocus ‘Orange Monarch’ reaches just 4-6 inches but is guaranteed to make a lasting impression with its orange petals complete with purple-to-brown streaks. It can stand out at the front of a flower bed, as a feature in a container garden, or work as a bulb for naturalizing in a lawn.

The window for planting crocuses runs from September to November. Plant the bulbs around two to three times their depth in a sunny, well-draining planting site. In general, crocus bulbs are usually planted 4-6 inches deep.

You can buy Orange Monarch Crocus Bulbs at Burpee

You can buy Orange Monarch Crocus Bulbs at Dutch Grown

Chionodoxa Luciliae

Chionodoxa, known as Glory of the Snow, flowers in late winter to early spring, potentially as early as late February. Each miniature bulb produces between five and ten star-shaped flowers with lilac-to-violet-blue petals and a white eye, sitting atop deep green, strap-shaped foliage.

Chionodoxa is a low-maintenance, good bulb for shade. The bulbs do like sun but can tolerate shadier spots and being planted underneath deciduous trees and shrubs. The bulbs naturalize and occasionally self-seed, potentially forming stunning carpets of early color over the years.

You don’t want to plant chionodoxa until the soil temperature drops below 60ºF. For the best effect, plant them in large numbers, each around three inches apart, and let the foliage naturally die back at the end of the season.

Chionodoxa Forbesii is the most common variety, but Chionodoxa Luciliae is a beautiful alternative with shorter stems and slightly bigger flowers. You can get Chionodoxa Luciliae bulbs at Dutch Grown.

Iris ‘Katharine Hodgkins’

When I worked at Hidcote Manor Garden in the Cotswolds, Iris ‘Katharine Hodgkins’ was a star of the show in the winter border early in the year.

This outstanding dwarf iris variety stood out with its intricately detailed blooms. The upright central petals are pale blue with deeper blue veins, and the lower falls have yellow blotches and blue-purple spots. It is a deeply pretty iris that demands attention.

The stunning irises bloom from January to March each year, and gardeners can enjoy them in many different ways, from cottage garden beds to rock gardens to containers. Plant iris bulbs in September or October and they’ll reliably return year after year to brighten up early spring.

You can get Iris ‘Katharine Hodgkins’ bulbs at Dutch Grown

Galanthus 'Flore Pleno'

Many gardeners love growing snowdrops. Indeed, there are some true ‘galanthophiles’ who collect different types and are known to spend thousands on rare varieties. We’re not suggesting you invest large sums of money in unique snowdrops, but you can get something a bit different to the norm without breaking the bank.

Galanthus 'Flore Pleno' is a beautiful double snowdrop, with the inner petals having a delicate green tint. It has a longer flowering season than standard snowdrops, which can begin as early as late January.

However, due to the intricate flowers and long season, ‘Flore Peno’ may be in high demand, so order early.

Plant your snowdrop bulbs in fall in groups of at least 10. They should ideally be planted around four inches deep and at least four inches apart in flower beds or containers.

Get Galanthus 'Flore Pleno' bulbs at Burpee

Get Galanthus 'Flore Pleno' bulbs at Dutch Grown

Shop Bulb Planting Tools

You may need to wait to plant spring bulbs, but if you aspire to add to your garden this month, then you can scratch that itch. Our guide to what to plant in August highlights late-flowering perennials and grasses you can add in late summer to give structure and interest come fall.

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While many of-the-moment colors are successful choices for certain rooms – think light and airy kitchens or cozy dining rooms – they can soon confuse bedrooms by setting the wrong mood. Color psychology means that colors alter how a room feels, so it's important to keep this front of mind before painting your bedroom a trending shade of red, which is more often than not too energizing for a sleep space.

To help you master your bedroom color ideas and avoid making any color mistakes, designers reveal the five popular shades you may want to avoid in bedrooms, and the more timeless alternatives to use instead that lend a calm, cozy feel.

1. Energizing Reds – Go For Chocolate Browns

The last couple of years have given decorating with red a new lease of life. With the likes of the unexpected red theory, red feels once again modern and fresh, but you may want to think twice before painting your bedroom walls this color.

'We generally avoid red in a bedroom,' explains the Minneapolis-based interior designer Heather Peterson. 'It can be intense and activating, and we strive for a restful envelope in most bedrooms.'

'If you want the drama, consider a rich dark brown instead,' Heather advises. 'Think bittersweet chocolate, which can have a red undertone. This is just as strong as red and delivers warmth, but it is less charged. We especially like it paired with light neutrals for contrast and red-brown wood for some tonal interest.'

2. Sweet Pale Pinks – Opt For Muted Dusty Tones

Pale pink paints have been making a comeback in interiors, often working as a more colorful alternative to traditional neutrals. And while this warm shade works well in plenty of settings, the wrong tone can look dated in bedrooms.

'Pink is a popular color for bedrooms, but it is often the default choice for feminine nurseries,' says New York designer Luba Libarikian of Libarikian Interiors. 'We love pink, but if it is the wrong hue, it will feel like a bedroom for a young child, and not sophisticated enough for a grown-up bedroom.'

Instead of pale pinks, Luba points to earthy, dusty variations of pink, which offer a lot more depth. 'A muted pink is unisex; it’s a soft color that feels calming and is flattering in evening light,' she says. 'The pink undertones have to be desaturated a little, and it has to be light enough to feel soft and soothing.'

3. Cool Grays – Choose Light but Earthy Tones

Gray-blue paints have gained lots of momentum in the design world as a cool, modern take on decorating with neutrals. And while these cool shades can bring a crisp, refined feel to light and airy rooms, they can feel out of sync with the cozy feel we want to achieve in bedrooms. 'I would steer away from colors that feel too cool, particularly gray-blues,' says designer MK Smith Boykin of Charlotte-based Smith Interiors.

'In a bedroom, you want the palette to feel warm, inviting, and uplifting,' she adds. 'Cooler shades can make the space feel a little sterile or chilly, which isn't the feeling you want to wake up to – especially in the winter.'

To keep your bedroom feeling soft and welcoming, while maintaining a pared-back look, go for light, warm neutral paints. 'I often urge clients to use a creamy white,' suggests MK. 'It's much more timeless and welcoming. I also would love to see a warm cinnamon in a bedroom. This is cozy, warm, and timeless, and it pairs well with crisp bedding.'

4. Bright Whites – Pick a Soften Brightening Lilac

Decorating with white is a timeless choice, especially when aiming to make a room feel light and airy. And while in sun-drenched kitchens or open-plan spaces, white walls feel bright and breezy, white bedrooms can feel off-balance. 'We find that most people default to a cool white – a white paint color that has a cool undertone,' says designer Luba Libarikian. 'The problem with this type of color is that it only looks great in bright sunny rooms – most bedrooms don’t get enough light, and feel cold and unwelcoming.'

'White can feel a little too sterile and clinical – almost like a hospital room – when a bedroom should feel soothing, warm, and inviting,' adds Houston interior designer Lindsey Herod.

For something much softer and more inviting, Lindsey recommends exploring the world of lilac paints. 'It brings color and personality into a bedroom without overwhelming the space, and has a soft, calming quality that feels naturally suited to where we rest and recharge,' she says. 'It’s subtle enough to feel timeless, but still adds a sense of warmth, character, and joy – creating a room that feels soothing at night and uplifting in the morning.'

5. Rich Burgundy – Try a Fresh Yet Enveloping Blue

Few color trends have been as defining as burgundy of late, and while there's no denying the warm, sophisticated appeal of this decadent hue, some designers are swerving it in bedrooms. 'I love burgundy in dining rooms, libraries, and other spaces where you want richness and drama, but in a room intended for rest, it can carry more visual energy than people anticipate,' says designer Anu Jain of Atelier Oleana, based in San Francisco.

'Depending on the light, it can also shift from romantic and enveloping to feeling quite heavy,' she adds. 'A bedroom is one of the few places where I want the color to lower the volume rather than demand attention.'

To create a colorful look that feels more aligned with a bedroom context, consider going for a blue bedroom instead. 'Blue has an inherently restorative quality, but it still gives a bedroom far more atmosphere and personality than a conventional neutral,' says Anu.

Here, Anu used Farrow & Ball's Lulworth Blue, which she describes as 'a fresh mid-tone blue with a slightly formal, historic quality. It has enough clarity to feel uplifting during the day but becomes wonderfully soft and enveloping in lower evening light.'

The key to designing a bedroom color scheme that you won't soon tire of is to think about how you want the space to feel. Whether that's calm, cozy, or cocooning, the right wall color can totally transform the mood, so think of this before diving into the latest color trends.

With any of the paint colors mentioned here, make sure to sample shades at home first so you can see how the color looks at different times of day – you'd be surprised by how changing lighting completely alters the look.

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Although we're nearing the end of August, summer temperatures are still high and proving challenging for our garden birds. But, it isn't just a case of providing water for them, there are quite a few things these feathered creatures need to get through late summer and prepare for fall.

As well as the obvious ways to help birds in a heatwave, you can also help garden birds in August by allowing some plants go to seed, creating shelter, and keeping your bird bath clean (it can be as simple as using this bird bath copper disc from Amazon to stop a build-up of algae).

Doing just a handful of simple things will keep the birds in your yard safe and make your garden more attractive to them, so you can enjoy more wildlife. Here's where to start.

1. Keep Your Bird Bath Clean

One of the most important things you can do to help garden birds in summer is provide a bird bath. But, it's even more important to ensure it's clean and topped up.

This may sounds obvious, but the ongoing hot temps and intense sunlight in late August can encourage algae. Plus, the water will evaporate more quickly.

With birds seeking a clean and safe water source to drink from and bathe in, it's important to refresh the water daily and clean your bird bath regularly.

This bird bath cleaning solution from Amazon is safe for birds. The copper penny bird bath trick works well, too, as does adding a solar bird bath fountain (like this from Walmart) to create movement in the water.

And if you haven't yet got a bird bath in your yard, explore our collection of stylish bird baths to shop before fall.

2. Leave Seedheads

As summer blooms start to fade, plants for seedheads can provide vital food sources for birds.

So, while it can be tempting to deadhead and removing faded blooms, leaving some seedheads is a good idea. This is especially true for the flowers that won't repeat bloom from deadheading.

In particular, echinacea, rudbeckia, sunflowers, and ornamental grasses are top choices to feed birds into fall and winter.

Not only this, you can also collect seeds from some of the seedheads for planting next year. Use this seed tin and packets kit from Amazon to store them correctly for next spring.

3. Prioritize High-Energy Foods

As natural food sources become more available for birds, you may notice less demand for standard wild bird seed mixes (like this from Walmart). Instead, you can make the most of your bird feeder by prioritizing high-energy foods, which will help birds get through the remaining hot summer weather.

This includes peanut granules, sunflower hearts (like this from Amazon), and mealworms.

Make sure to also place your bird feeder out of direct sun, to stop the food spoiling faster and to provide some shade for birds as they rest in your yard.

4. Provide Shelter

There are a few reasons why birds need shelter in late summer – to escape the heat, roosting, and to safely hide from predators while molting, which rejuvenates their feathers.

You can provide shelter by having lots of dense shrubs and climbing plants, using bird houses (like this from Walmart) for the likes of bluebirds and wrens, and placing food and water sources in shade.

Delaying hedge trimming can also help, by creating more coverage and perching spots for birds out of the sun.

5. Delay Tidying Your Yard

There are lots of benefits to delaying the late-summer garden tidy up and why you shouldn't over-tidy your yard in fall.

Things like fallen leaves and fallen fruit attract lots of insects and invertebrates, providing food sources for birds at this time.

Likewise, there may still be some active nests in trees and shrubs which you shouldn't disturb with pruning. Plant debris in your garden can even provide materials for late-nesting species.

What to Shop

To make your garden more attractive to birds year-round, consider adding ways to feed birds without a feeder and growing more plants for birds. Likewise, there are a few bird bath mistakes to avoid that could cause harm to wildlife.

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A good pizza oven is a significant investment, and unless you live somewhere sunny year-round, it can spend much of the colder months gathering dust and cobwebs.

This year, however, I’m determined to make mine work harder, using the best cast-iron cookware to turn a summer pizza oven into a cozy-season baking hub.

The Victoria 8-Inch Cast Iron Skillet is perfect for the job. From gooey brownies and crisp-edged cookies to s’mores and bubbling fruit crisps, it turns your pizza oven into a dessert station that’s made for evenings around the fire.

Any cast-iron skillet small enough to fit comfortably inside your pizza oven will do the trick, but I am a particular fan of the Victoria Cookware eight-inch pan. Of all the non-toxic cookware I have tried, it is one of the most affordable, and, as someone who was new to cast-iron cooking, it was practically foolproof, arriving pre-seasoned and low-stick.

Burgers crisped, eggs cooked evenly and slid straight out without breaking, and skillet cookies developed a satisfying crust while staying gooey in the center. It was all I could have hoped for and more.

Safe for use up to 1,000°F, it is the ideal pick for using a pizza oven in winter. The small base (also available in 6.5 inches and 4 inches at Amazon) means it slots into the oven neatly, making it easy to manage a whole host of bakes from brownies to fruit crisps. Yes, you could use your conventional indoor oven, but the best pizza ovens offer faster baking times, creating a crisp, caramelised exterior and a molten interior, perfect for thick cookies, brownies, and s'mores.

Depending on the type of oven, it can also impart a smoky, rustic flavor you cannot achieve in a fan oven, making cozy season feel that much cozier. Don't just take my word for it. Our expert Laura Honey made brownies when reviewing the Gozney Arc Pizza Oven, dubbing the final result 'incredible', with the entire tray quickly devoured.

It’s an easy way to get more from your pizza oven long after peak pizza season has passed.

What Else to Shop

From convenient utensils to the essentials for cleaning and caring for cookware, these are the tools I keep on hand to maintain my cast iron and make pizza oven cooking as simple as possible.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Come summer or fall, be sure to avoid these common pizza oven mistakes for the best results time and time again.

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Late summer can feel a little sad in the garden. The sun might still be shining and the evenings warm, but by August something has shifted. Grasses are parched, the fresh green of June is long gone, salvias are slowing down and the first flush of roses is a distant memory.

But all is not lost – not yet. Late-summer flowering perennials, ornamental grasses and evergreens can breathe new life into pots, bringing fresh color and texture right through fall and, in some cases, until the first frost. Asters are a perfect example. I have seen brilliant pink and purple varieties flowering quite happily into November in cold, wet Wales. Give taller varieties a little support and they can keep the show on the road remarkably late in the year.

So, if you are looking for container gardening ideas to revive a patio, porch or tired pot display, late summer is no time to give up. From colorful asters – there are great deals on live plants from Amazon – to fiery rudbeckias, these are the pot plants to grow now for blooms through fall.

1. Black-eyed Susan

Native to North America, black-eyed Susan, or Rudbeckia spp., are prairie plants seem made for that awkward point between summer and fall, when plenty of other perennials are beginning to fade.

Hardy down to US hardiness zone 3, they are easy to grow in containers, provided you give them plenty of sunshine and keep on top of watering. ‘Goldsturm’ is a dependable choice, producing masses of golden-yellow flowers, while ‘Henry Eilers’ has unusual, thin petals that give each flower an almost spidery appearance.

The striking 'solar sisters' Black-eyed Susan plant is available from Trees.com (formerly known as Fast Growing Trees.)

2. Aster

Asters are among the last great performers of the gardening year. Depending on the variety, they can flower from late summer until the first frost, producing masses of daisy-like blooms.

Most perennial asters are hardy from US zone 3 to zone 8 and perform best in full sun with well-draining soil.

For containers, I particularly like compact varieties that are less likely to flop or require staking. ‘Wood’s Blue’ is a good option, producing masses of purple-blue flowers through fall but reaching no taller than three feet.

Keep containers watered during dry spells and deadhead faded flowers to maintain the display.

Perennial asters are available to order from Walmart.

3. Switchgrass

Native to North America, switchgrass, or panicum, is an ornamental calming plant perfect for adding height and movement to container displays, with fine flowers grouped in airy clusters called panicles appearing in late summer and remaining attractive well into fall.

Hardy from US zone 4, switchgrass prefers full sun. In pots, however, keep an eye on watering, as containers will dry considerably faster than plants grown in your borders.

For a particularly good fall display, try Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’, which has blue-green leaves that tend to become increasingly tinted with burgundy-red as the seasons change.

You can fine switchgrass plants at Nature Hills.

What to Shop

4. Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums are one of the easiest ways to refresh containers as summer begins to fade, bringing a final burst of color in September and October.

One variety I really enjoy is ‘Emperor of China’, with beautiful soft lilac-pink flowers and hardy down to zone 5. This, like most garden chrysanthemums, performs best in full sun and well-draining soil, and hardy varieties can return year after year.

Flowering can continue remarkably late – potentially into November – making them perfect for bridging the gap between summer and winter displays.

These orange Belgian mums from Trees.com (formerly known as Fast Growing Trees) are my top pick for fall.

5. Helenium

There are many wonderful helenium varieties, but one of my favorites is Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’, with rich orange-red petals surrounding brown centres. Flowering from late summer into fall, it is ideal for injecting some warmth into containers as the season begins to change.

Hardy down to US zone 3, ‘Moerheim Beauty’ performs best in full sun and will do just fine in a pot, in something like this paisley terracotta pots, available now from Walmart, so long as it is watered well.

For a simple late-summer combination, pair the rusty-red flowers with the golden yellow of black-eyed Susans. Together, they create a red-yellow burst of color that, in my opinion, feels perfectly suited to the time of year.

You can find helenium plants at Amazon.

6. Nandina

Not every plant in a fall container needs to flower, so allow me one here for its foliage. Nandina domestica ‘Wood’s Dwarf’ earns its place for its leaves, bringing rich red and bronze tones just as summer flowers begin to fade.

Few evergreen shrubs deliver red foliage quite as reliably as nandina. For containers, look for a compact variety such as Nandina domestica ‘Wood’s Dwarf’, which grows to around two feet tall and is hardy down to US zone 6.

The foliage is the real attraction, shifting from green to increasingly rich shades of red as temperatures fall. Better still, this isn't simply a plant for one season.

As an evergreen, nandina can provide permanent structure in a pot, complemented by chrysanthemums and asters in fall, bulbs in spring and summer annuals later in the year.

I have found nandina does best in partial shade, although a sunny position will be fine in cooler regions.

You can find the dwarf 'fire power' nandina from Trees.com (formerly known as Fast Growing Trees), and 'gulf stream' nandina at Plant Addicts.

7. Diascia

For something to soften the edge of a fall container, diascia is hard to beat. Its masses of small pink, apricot or yellow flowers spill and tumble beautifully from pots, reaching no more than 10 or 12 inches tall.

Diascia, or twinspur, is best treated as an annual, and performs best in full sun to partial shade and, with regular deadheading, can continue flowering from summer well into fall, often until the first frost.

And, when it is done and turns brown, simply remove and add to the compost heap.

For more inspiration, check out our guide to fall raised bed garden ideas, and fill your plot with plenty of plants this October and November.

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As rainier fall weather threatens our outdoor seating, it’s time to start thinking about bringing soft furnishings indoors. Even under furniture covers, cushions can become damp and moldy from condensation, or attract pests looking for a cozy place to nest over winter.

The problem is that these bulky, awkwardly shaped cushions aren’t exactly easy to store. Basements and garages may offer extra space, but they can also be prone to humidity, pests, and often offer precious little usable storage.

My solution? Hanging vacuum storage bags from Amazon. They compress bulky cushions to roughly half their original size while keeping them safely off the floor, making use of vertical storage to save space. It’s a simple storage trick that can make the end-of-season tidy-up considerably easier.

Most of the time, cushion storage comes down to folding them as tightly as possible into a box and calling it a day. However, not only is this a terrible waste of space when your home storage is already cramped, but it can misshape your cushions and still leave them susceptible to mold and damp, not to mention musty smells.

Vacuum storage bags are easily one of the best options for keeping your cushions in top condition and reducing their storage footprint. However, keeping the cushions flat can still prove tricky when they span the length of a two-seater sofa and above.

Hanging vacuum storage bags offer a clever workaround. By making use of rails, hooks, and other vertical storage points, you can keep bulky cushions off the floor while freeing up valuable shelving for boxes and other seasonal items.

The Vacbird bags from Amazon do double duty as vacuum compression bags and hanging garment protectors, while also providing a dustproof barrier. Made from five-layer PA+PE material with an airtight valve, they help protect cushions from moisture, dust, and pests, keeping them in good condition from the moment you pack them away until warmer weather returns next spring.

What Else to Shop

From smart space-saving storage to moisture protectors, these are the essentials your fall and winter storage zones need to see you through to next summer

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

No space inside your home? Worry not. We have a host of backyard storage ideas you can use as inspiration.

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Late August is always the time I start taking cuttings from lots of my favorite perennials, and this year I am thinking about it a little differently. I'm not just interested in the plants I love the most for their fragrance and textures, I'm looking at what survived through this summer's long heatwave.

My 2026 summer garden star is Verbena bonariensis, which is also known as purple top vervain. It did not falter in the long periods of drought and heat we experienced. In fact, it continued to grow and thrive, and I have never seen so many butterflies and bees fluttering around it as I did this year.

In this weekend's episode of Petals & Roots, which you can watch below, I show you how take verbena cuttings, and here I talk more about why I'm choosing to propagate heat-resistant plants as I think about all the ways I can future-proof my yard.

What You Need to Propagate Verbena Cuttings

• An established, healthy Verbena bonariensis plant
• Sharp, clean pruning shears or snips; I highly recommend these Fiskars ones from Amazon
• Plastic or Terracotta pots, just like this set I found on Amazon
• Potting compost, available from Walmart
• A pencil or dibber
• A small watering can, such as this one from Target

Why Propagating Verbena Will Future-Proof Your Yard

As regular viewers of Petals & Roots will know, I love to propagate plants in my garden. One reason is because it's very large, and taking cuttings is the best way to fill my yard without spending a fortune!

But another reason I'm propagating Verbena bonariensis because it is one of my favourite plants for a hot, sunny garden.

This summer it has proven to be incredibly resilient in warm, dry conditions and once established, it can cope remarkably well with periods of heat and drought.

I love the way it brings height and movement without feeling heavy, with those tall, slender stems carrying clouds of purple flowers above the rest of the planting.

It's also a brilliant plant for pollinators, so it earns its place in my garden for more than just its resilience. When many of my annuals, and even some young salvias, had faded early owing to the extreme heat, verbena provided a safe haven for the butterflies and bees.

The reason I added it to my garden initially was to create height and color quickly in front of a bare fence. I added four young plants to a bed in early May, and was astounded by the speed at which it grew and spread.

The best way to propagate verbena is by taking cuttings from the side shoots, and there were too many to count on my plants. You can also divide well-established verbena, and the best time to do this is either fall or spring.

There are several different verbena varieties; Peruvian and rose vervain are also great plants for heat.

Other plants that I would also put into this category based on their stellar performance this summer are lavender and catmint. Both of these must-have perennials thrived and flowered despite the heat and the lack of water.

To conserve water, I restricted my watering to the container vegetables and some tender patio pots. Luckily, the potted pelargoniums were also fine in the heat, and if you also grow them, you might enjoy this recent Petals & Roots episode on how to propagate these tender geraniums.

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Petals & Roots is a weekly video series fronted by me, Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. Every weekend on social, I share my seasonal gardening and flower arranging expertise and advice.

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August can make a vegetable gardener feel rather late to the party: the tomatoes are strutting, the zucchini is multiplying, and every empty inch seems spoken for. Yet arugula (Eruca vesicaria) is the one crop you can still sow in a small space now, often harvesting baby leaves in under a month and continuing with successive sowings into fall.

It needs very little room, grows happily in containers, and appreciates the easing heat of late summer far more than a tomato ever will.

For more ways to make every inch count, these small vegetable garden ideas prove that productive growing need not require a grand country plot or a gardening trug the size of a bathtub. Get a head start with these slow bolt organic arugula seeds from True Leaf Market.

Why Arugula Is August’s Cleverest Crop

Arugula, also known as rocket in the UK, is one of those useful plants that quietly gets on with the job while more glamorous vegetables demand staking, tying, feeding, fussing, and the occasional stern word. Sow it in August and you can expect germination in around a week in warm soil, with tender baby leaves ready in roughly 20 to 30 days.

That speed matters. By late summer, the backyard can resemble an exhausted theater after the matinee: a few empty patches, some weary pots, and plants that have given everything to their performance. Arugula is the neat little understudy who steps out, knows all the lines, and gets a standing ovation.

It is particularly useful in temperate USDA Zones 4–9, where late-summer days remain warm enough for quick germination but nights begin to cool, improving the leaves’ flavor. The slightly peppery bite is sharper than lettuce but gentler than a mouthful of actual mustard, which is a relief to everyone at lunch.

If you are wondering what else can earn its keep at this point in the season, our guide to vegetables to plant in August is a helpful companion. But for one fast, small-space crop, arugula is hard to beat.

A Pot Is Plenty

One of the joys of growing arugula is that it does not demand a deep container or a sprawling raised bed. Its roots are shallow, so a window box, broad bowl, grow bag, or planter at least 6 inches deep will do nicely, provided it has drainage holes. A container 10 to 12 inches wide gives enough room for a worthwhile little crop without requiring a change to your zip code.

I have grown arugula in a modest terracotta pot beside the kitchen door, where it became the most frequently harvested plant in the entire back yard. This is the ideal placement: close enough that you can snip a handful while pasta boils, rather than embarking on a solemn expedition to the far end of the garden.

A self-watering window box from Amazon is particularly useful for a sunny balcony, while compact raised beds from Walmart offer more growing room without consuming a patio. Choose a wide container rather than a tall, narrow one. Arugula is not interested in plumbing the geological depths; it wants elbow room.

For a fuller primer on pots, how to grow arugula explains why this leafy crop is so well suited to portable growing.

Sow Little And Often, Not All At Once

The trick to a long arugula season is not to sow one heroic packet and then marvel at your own abundance for ten minutes before everything matures simultaneously. Sow a short row or a small patch every 10 to 14 days instead. This is succession sowing, and it turns a single packet of seed into an agreeable relay race rather than a green avalanche.

Fill your container with fresh, moisture-retentive seed compost or good-quality potting mix. I like Burpee’s organic seed-starting mix for small sowings because fine, even compost makes it easier for tiny seeds to establish. Scatter seeds thinly over the surface, cover them with about ¼ inch of compost, firm gently, and water with a fine rose attachment.

A watering can with a fine rose from Ace Hardware is far more useful here than a vigorous blast from a hose, which has all the delicacy of power-washing a soufflé. Keep the surface consistently moist until seedlings emerge.

Once they are up, thin crowded seedlings to around 2 to 3 inches apart if you want larger leaves. Alternatively, let them grow closer together and harvest young. This is a deliciously forgiving crop, which is fortunate because August gardeners have plenty else to remember. Our guide to succession planting has more ways to keep a small plot productive into fall.

Choose Varieties With A Little Personality

The standard arugula, Eruca vesicaria, is quick, reliable, and enjoyably peppery. For an August sowing, look for varieties described as slow-bolting or heat-tolerant, such as these slow bolt arugula seed from True Leaf Market, especially if your local forecast still looks as though summer has no intention of leaving quietly.

Arugula ‘Astro’ from True Leaf Market is a fine choice for gardeners who want mild, rounded baby leaves quickly. ‘Sylvetta’ or wild arugula (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) offers a fierier flavor and narrower, more jagged leaves; it is slower growing but can be cut repeatedly. ‘Rocket’ is another dependable option, bringing the classic lively bite that makes a salad feel less like an obligation.

You can find a broad Arugula 'Runway' seed collection at True Leaf Market or choose compact, reliable varieties of varying shapes and colors. A packet may look comically small, but arugula seed goes a long way. Resist sowing every last grain in a moment of horticultural optimism.

If you are growing for children or anyone who regards black pepper as a dangerous spice, pick the leaves young. Baby arugula is softer and milder; older leaves become more assertive, like a guest who has stayed just long enough to express opinions about the wine.

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Give It Morning Sun And Afternoon Mercy

In August, the ideal arugula site receives several hours of sun but is protected from the harshest afternoon heat. A container is a particular advantage because you can simply move it. Plants in fixed raised beds have to endure what the weather sends them; a pot can be escorted into dappled shade with the dignity of a visiting duchess.

Arugula will grow in full sun as temperatures cool, but intense heat encourages bolting: the plant sends up a flowering stalk and the leaves turn noticeably more bitter. This is not a disaster; arugula flowers are edible and rather pretty, but it does signal that the plant is nearing the end of its leafy career.

Water regularly, especially in containers. Dry compost followed by a dramatic flood of water produces stressed plants and unreliable flavor. I find a daily check is usually enough in a temperate late-summer climate, though a hot, windy balcony can dry a pot astonishingly fast. It is always worth understanding the basics of watering container plants, because a small volume of compost has very little patience.

A light mulch of fine compost around established plants helps retain moisture. Do not overfeed; too much nitrogen can create lush growth with less flavor. Arugula is a salad leaf, not a bodybuilder.

Harvest Like You Mean To Keep It Growing

Begin harvesting when leaves are about 2 to 3 inches long. Snip the outer leaves with clean scissors or snips from Amazon, leaving the central crown intact, and the plant will continue producing. This cut-and-come-again approach gives more yield from a small space than waiting for each plant to reach some imagined moment of leafy perfection.

I harvest in the morning, after the leaves have had a chance to plump up overnight. They are crispest then, and there is something deeply satisfying about bringing a bowl of just-cut arugula into the kitchen before the coffee has finished brewing.

For the best flavor, take a few leaves often rather than stripping the plant bare. If flower stems appear, cut them promptly to prolong leaf production. When the plant finally insists on flowering, let one or two bloom for pollinators and save the seedpods if you are feeling thrifty. Gardening does not always need to end with a shopping list.

For practical ways to avoid overpicking and other common errors, these vegetable harvesting mistakes are worth knowing before your first enthusiastic snip.

Arugula is an excellent follow-on crop after bush beans, early potatoes, spent herbs, or any container whose summer occupant has become a bit forlorn. Clear away old roots and debris, refresh the top few inches of soil with compost, and sow. In a small garden, this sort of swift handover is the difference between a space that produces for three months and one that earns its breakfast through fall.

Where nights begin cooling early, cover containers or raised beds with lightweight horticultural wool or fleece to protect the leaves from an early frost. In milder temperate zones, you may keep harvesting well into fall. Gardeners in warmer areas can sow later, when the worst heat has loosened its grip.

Arugula is not a grand crop. It will not require a wheelbarrow, a harvest festival, or an apologetic note to neighbors asking whether they might possibly take some zucchini. It is better than that: fast, elegant, useful, and perfectly suited to the small spaces where every leaf has to justify itself.

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Your cabinet choice shapes almost every other decision you’ll make during a kitchen remodel. Their style influences the countertops you’ll choose, their color affects everything from flooring to wall paint, and their layout determines how efficiently the room works every day. Get the cabinets right, and the rest of the kitchen design starts to fall into place. Get them wrong, and you’ll soon know about it.

Which is exactly why choosing kitchen cabinets can feel so overwhelming. You’re not making one decision, you’re making dozens. Door styles, colors, materials, construction methods, storage solutions, hardware and finishes all demand attention. And then there’s the issue of achieving what you want within budget, which can be just as stressful, especially if you don’t have money to burn.

‘If I had to offer one piece of advice, it would be to learn the basics of cabinetry before you even think about style,’ says Rebecca Mahoney, principal designer at Robinwood Kitchens. ‘Taking some time to understand cabinet construction, materials, and the different levels of quality will help you make more informed decisions and feel more confident throughout the design process.’

Instead of tackling everything at once, this guide breaks the process into the decisions that really matter. We’ll explain what each option looks like, where it works best, what it’s likely to cost, and whether it’s a smart long-term investment, so you can nail down the best kitchen cabinet choice with confidence and make informed choices you won't regret.

1. Styles: How Cabinet Doors Shape the Look of Your Kitchen

Before you think about color or materials, decide on the cabinet style. Door profiles establish the personality of the kitchen more than almost any other element, making a space feel sleek and contemporary, warm and traditional, or somewhere comfortably in between.

When locking down the perfect cabinet style, professional designers invariably start with the architecture of the home. ‘The millwork and cabinetry should speak to the original architectural style of the home and make sense. You wouldn’t install modern flat panel cabinets in a traditional home,’ explains Gabriela Eisenhart, founder and creative director, Gabriela Eisenhart Interiors. ‘Far too often, I see kitchen renovations where the cabinetry feels completely disconnected from the rest of the house, which instantly dates your space.’

The good news is that you don’t need to memorize dozens of cabinet designs. Most kitchens fall into a handful of established styles, each with its own strengths. Here’s how to tell them apart and where each works best.

Shaker Cabinets: The Enduring All-Rounder

Simple, unfussy and remarkably versatile, Shaker cabinets have become the go-to style most of us will consider before all others. Defined by a flat center panel surrounded by a square-edged frame, they work equally well in traditional farmhouses, transitional homes and contemporary kitchens.

‘For me, inset Shaker-style cabinetry will always look good, and you can pair it with modern lighting and waterfall edges to make it lean more modern, or alternatively, design with very traditional fixtures and countertop details and make it super classic,’ says Elizabeth Valkovics, founding principal, Batten Court Design.

Slim Shaker doors have become increasingly popular in recent years. Featuring narrower frames than a classic Shaker door, they retain the familiar proportions while feeling lighter and more contemporary. They’re an excellent choice if you like the warmth of framed cabinetry but want to avoid a more overtly farmhouse look.

Best for: Transitional, farmhouse, Craftsman, Colonial and contemporary homes.

Slab Cabinets: Clean Lines with Contemporary Appeal

Slab, or flat-panel, cabinets are exactly what they sound like: a single flat surface with no frame or decorative detailing. The result is clean, architectural cabinetry that lets materials, color, and craftsmanship take center stage.

Because there are no grooves or moldings to catch dust, slab doors are also among the easiest styles to keep clean, making them particularly practical for busy households.

While they naturally complement contemporary architecture, slab doors are surprisingly adaptable. Timber veneers add warmth and texture, while painted finishes can soften what might otherwise feel overly minimalist.

Best for: Contemporary, modern, Scandinavian and mid-century homes.

Raised-Panel Cabinets: Traditional With Decorative Detail

Raised-panel cabinets are instantly recognizable by their raised center panel and profiled frame, often incorporating beaded detailing or decorative edge profiles. The additional depth creates stronger shadows, giving the cabinetry a richer, more traditional appearance.

They’re particularly well suited to larger kitchens and heritage homes, where their decorative detailing complements classic architectural features. In smaller kitchens, however, the extra visual detail can sometimes make the room feel busier.

For a timeless look, choose restrained profiles rather than highly ornate molding. Simpler raised-panel doors tend to age more gracefully than heavily embellished designs.

Best for: Traditional, Colonial, Georgian and French country homes.

Recessed-Panel Cabinets: A Softer Take on Classic Cabinetry

Recessed panel cabinets feature a center panel set below the surrounding frame, but unlike classic Shaker doors, they often incorporate a gently beveled or molded inside edge. The result is a softer, more traditional appearance that avoids the heavier detailing of raised-panel cabinetry.

This style works particularly well in transitional kitchens, sitting comfortably between contemporary simplicity and period character. It offers enough detailing to add warmth and depth, while remaining restrained enough to feel current for years to come.

Best for: Transitional, traditional, cottage and farmhouse kitchens.

Beadboard Cabinets: Relaxed Character Without Feeling Rustic

Beadboard doors are distinguished by a series of narrow vertical grooves that add texture without the weight of more ornate paneling. They’re often associated with cottage kitchens, but can work equally well in coastal, farmhouse and country-inspired interiors.

Because beadboard already introduces plenty of visual texture, it works well when used selectively. Many designers reserve it for an island, pantry or end panels rather than every cabinet in the room. ‘The joy of beadboard doors and paneling is that it can accommodate nearly any design style – it really works across modern, traditional, and rustic settings,’ says interior designer Cortney Bishop.

If you like the vertical texture of beadboard but want something more contemporary, consider reeded, ribbed or fluted cabinet doors instead. These designs use tighter grooves to create a crisp, architectural look that’s particularly well suited to modern kitchens. Cleaning will be fiddlier.

Best for: Cottage, coastal and farmhouse homes.

Inset vs. Overlay Cabinets: The Construction Detail That Changes the Look

Unlike the other styles in this guide, inset and overlay describe how the doors sit on the cabinet, rather than the design of the door itself.

Inset cabinets (also known as in-frame) sit flush within the cabinet frame, creating crisp, even gaps around every door and drawer front. The craftsmanship required makes them one of the most expensive cabinet options, but many homeowners value their furniture-like appearance.

Full-overlay cabinets (also known as lay-on) are now the industry standard. Doors cover almost the entire cabinet frame, producing cleaner lines, maximizing storage space and suiting both traditional and contemporary kitchens.

Partial-overlay cabinets, where more of the cabinet frame remains visible, were common in older kitchens but are now largely associated with dated builder-grade cabinetry. Unless you’re matching an existing kitchen, they’re rarely chosen for new remodels.

2. Colors: How to Choose Kitchen Cabinets That Work in Your Home

Kitchen color is often the most emotional cabinet decision, but it shouldn’t be an impulsive one. The shade you fall in love with on a tiny paint swatch can look completely different across an entire kitchen, influenced by natural light, ceiling height, surrounding finishes, and even the direction your windows face.

‘Cabinetry is usually the largest single surface in a kitchen, so its color does more to set the mood than the walls do,’ says Michael Winn, founder and principal, WINN Design + Build. 'Light colors reflect daylight and make a kitchen feel more open; darker colors absorb it and make the space feel more grounded and intimate. Neither is wrong, but you should decide which feeling you want before you fall in love with a shade.’

A successful cabinet color should complement your home’s architecture, work with your countertops and flooring, and still feel like the right choice years from now. No pressure then!

White and Off-White Cabinets: Bright, Timeless and Endlessly Adaptable

White kitchens have remained popular for decades because they provide an incredibly flexible backdrop. They bounce light around darker rooms, make compact kitchens feel more spacious, and pair comfortably with almost every countertop material, flooring choice, and hardware finish.

That doesn’t mean every white works everywhere. Cooler whites can appear crisp in bright, south-facing kitchens but may feel stark in rooms with limited natural light. Softer off-whites with warm undertones are often more forgiving, especially in more traditional settings like country and coastal homes, creating a relaxed feel while still keeping the space light and airy. Large paint samples viewed at different times of day are well worth the effort before making a final decision.

From a resale perspective, white and off-white cabinetry remain among the safest choices. Their neutrality won’t scare off the color-averse and allows future buyers to personalize the room through accessories and décor rather than undertaking an expensive remodel.

Natural Wood Cabinets: Bringing Warmth and Texture

Wood cabinetry has moved well beyond rustic kitchens. From pale oak to richly figured walnut, natural timber introduces warmth, texture and variation that painted finishes can’t replicate, helping contemporary kitchens feel more welcoming without relying on color.

Unlike painted cabinetry, wood also changes subtly over time as it develops a natural patina. That’s part of its appeal, but the species you choose makes a difference. Pale woods help maximize light in smaller rooms, while darker timbers create a richer, more cocooning atmosphere in larger spaces.

‘Many homeowners seek out natural hardwoods for durability, character and depth, but individual woods have their own characteristics. For example, Hickory and Oak are extremely dense woods that resist scratches and dents in high use kitchens,’ says Stephanie Pierce, director of design at MasterBrand Cabinets.

Natural wood is also remarkably versatile when it comes to coordinating finishes. It works equally well alongside natural stone, porcelain, concrete and terrazzo, making it one of the easiest cabinet finishes to design around. High-quality timber cabinetry also tends to perform well from a resale perspective because it feels authentic rather than trend-driven.

Navy and Deep Green Cabinets: Rich Color With Staying Power

If you’re ready to move beyond a neutral kitchen, navy and deep green remain among the safest color choices. Both introduce depth and personality without dominating the room, particularly when balanced with lighter countertops, backsplashes or flooring.

Lighting plays an especially important role with darker cabinetry. ‘The same green reads completely differently in a north-facing kitchen than in one flooded with afternoon sun,’ explains Michael Winn. ‘You’re also not choosing a color in isolation; it has to work with your countertops, flooring, and the rooms the kitchen opens into. Get a large sample, put it in the actual space, and live with it at different times of day before you commit.’

For resale, darker cabinet colors generally perform best when they’re grounded by timeless materials such as marble, quartzite, oak flooring or unlacquered brass, allowing the color to feel sophisticated rather than fashion-led.

Bold Colors or Neutrals: Which Is the Smarter Investment?

‘Whites, warm neutrals, natural wood tones, and muted greens and blues have real staying power – they’re all colors people don’t tire of. My rule with clients is to be more conservative with expensive fixed elements and take calculated risks on things that are cheaper to change,’ advises Michael. ‘So, keep the perimeter cabinets timeless and have fun with the island, a bar, or a butler’s pantry – a contained dose of a bold color, in a spot where repainting it someday won’t break your heart.’

If you’re planning to stay in your home for many years, choosing a color you genuinely love is often more important than designing exclusively for resale. For those thinking about future market appeal, softer greens, warm blues and earthy neutrals tend to have broader appeal than brighter yellows, reds or highly saturated shades.

3. Materials: What Kitchen Cabinets Are Made Of and Why It Matters

When people compare cabinet materials, they’re usually referring to the doors and drawer fronts – the parts you see and touch every day. These materials have the biggest influence on appearance, durability and cost. Behind them sits the cabinet box, or carcase, which plays an equally important role in how long your kitchen lasts.

‘Most people think the main decision is the door style that you can see, but it’s as much about the materials and construction you can’t see that will determine how long your kitchen will last,’ says Jen Baxter, founder of Baxter Hill Interiors. ‘Two quotes saying “wood cabinets” can describe completely different things. The box, the door, the drawer construction, and the finish are four separate material decisions, and cheap quotes usually skimp on the ones you can’t see.’

The best kitchens rarely rely on a single material throughout. Instead, manufacturers combine different materials where they perform best. A painted Shaker kitchen might feature MDF doors, plywood cabinet boxes and solid wood drawer boxes, while a natural oak kitchen may combine solid timber frames with veneered center panels for greater stability. Understanding the differences between materials and where each performs best will help you compare kitchens more confidently.

Solid Wood: A Premium Investment That Improves With Age

Solid wood remains the benchmark for luxury cabinetry thanks to its natural beauty, durability, and repairability. Every piece has its own grain pattern, and unlike manufactured materials, it can often be sanded and refinished several times over its lifetime.

However, even the finest kitchens aren’t usually made entirely from solid wood. Timber naturally expands and contracts as humidity changes, so manufacturers often reserve it for door frames, drawer fronts, or face frames, pairing it with more stable materials elsewhere.

Best for: Premium kitchens, painted and stained Shaker doors, traditional cabinetry

Wood Veneer: Real Timber With Greater Stability

Wood veneer consists of a thin layer of genuine hardwood – such as oak, walnut or ash – bonded to an engineered core. Depending on the manufacturer and door style, that core may be MDF, plywood or particleboard, usually chosen for its stability, price and manufacturing advantages.

Veneer offers the warmth, grain and character of solid timber while minimizing the movement that naturally occurs as wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. ‘A wood veneer over a quality stable core gives you consistent grain with no seasonal movement,’ confirms Jen Baxter.

It’s widely used on contemporary slab doors, large panels and end panels, while many framed doors (like Shaker and recessed-panel) combine solid timber frames with veneered center panels to achieve the best balance of beauty, strength and stability.

Best for: Contemporary slab doors, premium Shaker kitchens, end panels and high-end cabinetry

MDF: Great for Painted Cabinet Doors

Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) has become the industry standard for painted cabinet doors because its smooth, uniform surface creates an exceptionally even finish. ‘Engineered materials have gotten far better. A high-quality MDF now makes for a smoother painted finish that’s less prone to cracking than solid wood,’ explains Jen.

Unlike timber, it won’t display grain beneath the paint (so don’t choose it if you want that look), but it is far less likely to expand or shrink with changes in humidity. High-quality moisture-resistant MDF (MR MDF) is extremely durable in normal kitchen conditions, although deep impacts are harder to repair than solid timber.

Best for: Painted Shaker, slab and contemporary doors.

Laminate, Melamine and Thermofoil: Practical, Low-Stress Options

These materials all create durable, easy-to-clean cabinet surfaces, but they aren’t quite the same thing.

Laminate is a decorative surface bonded to an engineered core and is valued for its durability and wide choice of colors and textures.

Melamine (technically thermally fused laminate, or TFL) is commonly used for cabinet interiors and many slab-style doors, offering a hard-wearing finish at an affordable price.

Thermofoil is a vinyl film that’s heat-fused over MDF to create a seamless, painted appearance without the cost of spray finishing.

While these finishes are generally less repairable than timber or painted cabinetry, they’re easy to maintain and can represent excellent value.

Best for: Budget and mid-range kitchens, contemporary slab doors

Plywood: Strong, Stable and Exceptionally Durable

Plywood is made by bonding thin layers of timber together with alternating grain directions, creating a material that’s exceptionally strong, dimensionally stable and highly resistant to warping. It’s widely regarded as one of the best materials for cabinet boxes, shelving and drawer construction.

If you’re comparing two kitchens that look similar on the outside, the quality of the plywood carcase – and whether veneered panels use a premium substrate – is often one of the biggest differences between them.

Best for: Veneered doors, premium cabinet boxes, shelving and drawer construction.

4. Understanding Cabinet Construction

A cabinet may look impressive from the outside, but many of the differences between budget and premium kitchens are hidden beneath the paint or behind the doors. From the way drawers are constructed to the quality of the hinges, these details influence how the kitchen feels to use every day, and how well it will perform over the next twenty years.

‘The joinery matters just as much as the materials,’ agrees Paul Kropp, Co-Founder & Chief Operations Officer, Bakes & Kropp. ‘Even the finest wood will fail if it isn’t assembled correctly. Traditional joinery techniques such as mortise-and-tenon face frames, epoxy-set cope-and-stick door construction, tongue-and-groove box-to-frame connections, and dado construction create cabinets that remain solid for decades.’

Doors and Drawer Fronts

Doors and drawer fronts are the most visible part of any kitchen, so they have the biggest influence on style and finish. Whether you choose a classic Shaker, recessed panel or minimalist slab door, pay attention to how it’s made as well as how it looks.

Well-made doors feel substantial, with crisp detailing, consistent paint finishes and perfectly matched grain on timber designs. Larger doors should remain flat over time, while painted finishes should resist cracking around joints and panel edges. Drawer fronts should align evenly, with consistent gaps throughout the kitchen.

Hinges and Hardware Quality

Cabinet doors are opened thousands of times over their lifetime, making hinge quality one of the best indicators of overall cabinet construction. Look for concealed, adjustable hinges from established manufacturers that allow doors to be fine-tuned long after installation. Premium hinges maintain smooth operation for decades and make it easy to realign doors should the house settle, or normal wear occur.

Quality drawer runners matter just as much. Full-extension runners allow drawers to open completely, giving access to every inch of storage, while heavier-duty runners are essential for wide pan drawers filled with cookware.

‘All-metal hardware made from stainless steel, brass, or other premium materials will perform the longest. Hardware is one of the most expensive parts of a cabinet, but it’s also one of the most crucial for long-term satisfaction,’ adds Paul.

Drawer Box Construction

Drawer boxes reveal a great deal about the overall quality of a kitchen. Budget kitchens often use particleboard or MDF drawer boxes with stapled or doweled joints. Better-quality kitchens typically feature solid wood or plywood drawer boxes with dovetail joints, which offer greater strength and are less likely to loosen over time.

Also consider the drawer base and weight rating. Deep pan drawers carrying stacks of dishes or cast-iron cookware require substantially stronger construction than shallow cutlery drawers.

Soft-close Mechanisms

Soft-close hinges and drawer runners have become standard on most mid-range and premium kitchens, but the quality of the mechanism still varies considerably. The best systems slow the door or drawer during the final few inches of travel, preventing slamming without feeling sluggish. Consistent, controlled movement is a sign of quality engineering, while cheaper mechanisms can become noisy or lose effectiveness over time. Push-to-open systems offer an alternative on handleless kitchens, allowing doors and drawers to open with gentle pressure while maintaining clean, uninterrupted lines. Again, quality mechanisms are essential to ensure the doors open when you want them to, without repeated pushing.

Handles or Handleless?

Cabinet hardware influences both appearance and everyday usability. Handles and knobs provide excellent grip and can easily be updated if tastes change, making them one of the simplest ways to refresh a kitchen. Longer pulls are often more comfortable on integrated appliances and wide pan drawers, while knobs suit smaller doors and more traditional cabinetry.

Handleless kitchens achieve a cleaner, more architectural appearance using recessed rails, integrated finger pulls or push-to-open mechanisms. It’s important that you try out handleless doors before you buy to ensure opening is easy – those with long nails can find they wreck a manicure! While they create a streamlined aesthetic, some systems require more frequent cleaning as fingers regularly touch the cabinet fronts.

5. Layout Decisions: How Cabinet Choices Shape the Way Your Kitchen Works

The way cabinets are arranged has just as much influence on how cabinetry functions as the materials or finishes you choose. ‘Nobody remembers the finish of a kitchen if they end up flustered every time they cook,’ says Theo Jones, Director of Fynn Architects. ‘Your layout needs to make sense for how you actually cook. People often forget about door swings and the clearance drawers need to pull out fully, and you don’t want an oven too near a corner, where it’s awkward to open and access.’

The best layouts make everyday tasks easier by putting storage where it’s needed most, making awkward spaces work harder and balancing practicality with a sense of openness. Rather than asking how many cabinets you can fit into a room, focus on choosing the right cabinets for the job and arranging them in a way that will support how you cook, entertain and live.

Finding the Right Balance Between Upper and Lower Cabinets

More cabinets don’t automatically mean more usable storage. Filling every available wall with upper cabinets can make a kitchen feel enclosed, while removing them altogether may leave you short of space for everyday essentials. ‘Upper cabinets are practical but start to dominate a space, so in more generous rooms we try to avoid them,’ says Theo.

Instead, think about where different items are used. Everyday dishes and glasses belong close to the dishwasher, while less frequently used items can move into taller pantry cabinets or lower drawers. Many contemporary kitchens deliberately reduce the number of upper cabinets, relying on full-height storage and deep drawers to create a lighter, more spacious feel without sacrificing capacity.

Best for: Homeowners looking to balance generous storage with an open, uncluttered kitchen.

Should You Choose Glazed Cabinets?

Glass-front cabinets can soften long runs of solid cabinetry while providing an opportunity to display glassware, ceramics, or decorative pieces. They work particularly well around coffee stations, dining areas or dresser-style elevations where the contents contribute to the overall design.

However, they demand more discipline than solid doors. Everyday groceries, mismatched mugs and plastic containers rarely make attractive displays, so glazed cabinets are best reserved for items you genuinely want to showcase.

Best for: Displaying collections while breaking up large expanses of cabinetry.

Is a Pantry a Better Investment Than More Wall Cabinets?

If space allows, a well-designed pantry often delivers more useful storage than simply adding extra upper cabinets around the room. ‘You almost always need some full-height cabinets for the pantry and refrigerator. Decide where they’re going early, and typically group them together at one end of the kitchen,’ advises Theo.

Full-height pantry cabinets can accommodate dry goods, small appliances, serving pieces and bulk shopping in one organized location. Internal drawers, pull-out shelves and door-mounted storage make everything easier to see and access while reducing clutter elsewhere in the kitchen.

Best for: Busy households that want to keep work surfaces clear and everyday storage organized.

Making Every Inch of an Island Work Harder

An island offers some of the most valuable storage in the kitchen, but every side doesn’t need to perform the same job. The working side is ideal for cookware, dishes, recycling or food preparation tools, while the seating side may be better left open for comfortable legroom or fitted with shallow cabinets for placemats, table linens and entertaining essentials.

Wide drawers are often more practical than multiple cupboards, particularly for heavy pots and pans. When planning island storage, don’t just think about capacity. Consider how easily drawers and doors will open when people are seated or moving through the space.

Best for: Creating storage that’s both generous and easy to access.

Making Awkward Corners Work Harder

Corner cabinets have long been one of the biggest frustrations in kitchen design, but modern storage solutions have transformed how these spaces can be used. LeMans shelves, blind-corner pull-outs and rotating carousel systems all improve access to deep corners. ‘Pull-out corner storage is a must. You never want to lose that corner space every kitchen has,’ recommends Theo.

Your kitchen designer will discuss the best corner mechanism for the job, but quality construction is crucial. With many moving parts, these systems can fail under pressure. Look for products that come with a decent warranty.

Best for: Recovering usable storage without sacrificing accessibility.

Open Shelving or Closed Storage?

Open kitchen shelving creates an airy, relaxed look and keeps frequently used items within easy reach, but it also exposes everything to dust, grease, and daily clutter. Closed cabinets provide greater flexibility, protect contents and make it easier to maintain a tidy appearance. For that reason, many designers now recommend combining both approaches: rely on closed storage for the majority of kitchen essentials, then introduce a limited amount of open shelving for everyday crockery, cookbooks or decorative objects.

Best for: Homeowners who want to combine practical storage with opportunities for display.

6. Budget: What Really Drives Cabinet Costs?

Kitchen cabinets can vary enormously in price, but the biggest differences are rarely down to appearance alone. Materials, construction methods, finishes and installation all influence cost, often more than the door style itself. ‘As a general guideline, cabinetry should represent approximately 10–15% of the total construction cost of a new home, or 30–40% of a kitchen remodel budget,’ says Paul Kropp.

A good rule of thumb: if your appliance budget is larger than your cabinetry budget, your priorities are probably out of balance. ‘Appliances will eventually be replaced. Well-built cabinetry should still be serving the home beautifully decades later,’ explains Paul. Understanding where your money is going will help you invest where it matters most and avoid paying for features that add little long-term value.

Material choice: Premium materials inevitably cost more, but the most expensive option isn’t always the smartest. Solid timber remains the benchmark for furniture making, yet engineered materials such as high-grade plywood and MDF often outperform it in kitchens, where changes in temperature and humidity demand greater stability.

Instead of asking ’What’s the best material?’ ask ’Is the right material being used in the right place?’ A plywood cabinet box, with painted MDF or timber veneered doors often represent an excellent combination of durability, appearance and value.

Custom, semi-custom or stock: Stock cabinets are manufactured in fixed sizes and offer the quickest, most affordable route to a new kitchen. ‘This option is great for young families, or for the individual that would like to stretch their budget,’ says Carin Elle Mead, Founder of C. Elle Design Studio. You can also buy inexpensive stock cabinet boxes and have them strengthened by your builder or buy high quality custom boxes and fit inexpensive doors. Many successful Ikea hacks use this principle.

Semi-custom ranges increase your choice of sizes, colors and storage options. ‘These offer great flexibility without the cost of fully custom cabinetry. Cabinet showrooms offer a vast selection in this category,’ adds Carin. ‘Custom-built cabinets are an excellent choice for homeowners with an unlimited budget to invest in them. This selection offers unlimited design possibilities and storage solutions.’ Although bespoke kitchens command a higher initial investment, they often deliver better long-term value by:

• Making full use of awkward spaces

• Reducing filler panels and wasted storage

• Allowing appliances to be integrated more seamlessly

• Lasting a lot longer before replacement is required

Hardware quality: Hinges and drawer runners are opened and closed thousands of times every year, making them one of the smartest places to invest. Quality hardware delivers smoother operation, higher load capacities and more precise adjustment, while replacement parts are often available decades later should anything eventually wear out. If you are balancing your budget, always focus on moving parts over inert components.

Finish complexity: Paint color alone has little impact on cost, but specialist finishes require considerably more craftsmanship. High-end paint brands can also add serious dollar to your final bill – if you need to save, consider color-matching paint services and accept the depth of color may not be as good. Timber veneers need careful grain selection and matching, metallic finishes demand specialist application, while hand-painted cabinetry involves multiple coats and sanding between each layer to achieve a flawless result. If you’re working to a budget, consider reserving premium finishes for an island or feature wall rather than every cabinet.

Installation costs: Even beautifully made cabinetry can disappoint if it’s poorly installed. Experienced installers will spend time levelling cabinets, scribing them to uneven walls and ensuring every reveal and gap is perfectly consistent. ‘My top tip is that well-built, well-installed cabinets can last decades. You may find that inexpensive options often require repairs or replacement much sooner. When considering your budget, consider your future investments also,’ says Carin Elle.

Where to invest

• Cabinet construction

• Drawer runners and hinges

• Professional installation

• Worktops used every day

Where you can save

• Highly decorative finishes throughout

• Internal accessories you’ll rarely use

• Designer paint brands with expensive price tags

7. Timeless vs Trend-Driven Design

Cabinetry is one of the most permanent elements of any kitchen, so it’s worth separating passing kitchen trends from design principles that have stood the test of time. There’s a fine line between timeless and tedious, and the aim is to balance personality with longevity.

According to Mara McDonald, Home Design Expert at The Designery, the three decisions with the greatest long-term impact are color, storage and door style. ’Color sets the tone for the entire kitchen, so it’s important to choose a finish you’ll enjoy living with every day, not just what’s trending at the moment,’ she explains. ’Storage is equally important because a beautiful kitchen quickly loses its appeal if it isn’t functional. Thoughtfully planned drawers, pantry storage, and organizational features will continue to add value long after the project is complete. Finally, the cabinet door style has a significant influence on longevity. Simple, well-proportioned profiles tend to outlast highly decorative or trend-driven designs.’

Whether you favor Shaker, slab or slim-framed doors, clean profiles allow quality materials and craftsmanship to take center stage. Natural timber, soft neutrals and understated hardware also adapt easily as countertops, lighting and accessories evolve, creating a kitchen that’s far easier to update over time.

The features that date fastest are often the most dominant. Highly ornate detailing, ultra-fashionable colors and novelty finishes can quickly anchor a kitchen to a particular era. ’A good example is the all-white kitchen – bright white cabinetry paired with white countertops, a white subway tile backsplash, and the only contrast being black hardware. While it was widely considered timeless, that monochromatic look has become closely associated with the early-to-mid 2020s,’ says Mara. ’Instead of avoiding white cabinets altogether, I recommend creating balance through natural wood accents, warmer paint tones and mixed materials. A layered design approach gives a kitchen much more longevity while still feeling fresh today.’

How to Trend-Proof Your Kitchen

How to trend-proof your kitchen

One of the easiest ways to introduce personality without limiting longevity is to concentrate bolder choices where they’re easiest to update.

Consider using:

• A statement island color rather than colorful perimeter cabinets

• Distinctive handles that can be changed later

• Bold splashbacks, wallpaper or lighting instead of permanent finishes

• Artwork, stools and textiles to reflect changing tastes

• Treat the cabinetry as the foundation of the room and layer trends in

8. Small Kitchens: Choosing Cabinetry That Works Harder

In small kitchens, every cabinet decision is amplified. Avoid trying to squeeze in as many cabinets as possible and instead choose cabinetry that maximizes storage while making the room feel open, organized, and easy to use.

‘We focus on creating a clean, uninterrupted visual rhythm with cabinets that reach the ceiling, integrated appliances where possible, and thoughtful storage inside each cabinet. Eliminating visual clutter allows the eye to travel through the space, making the cabinetry in a smaller space feel calmer and more expansive,’ says Val Nehez, Founder and Principal Designer, Studio IQL.

Taking cabinetry all the way to the ceiling is one of the simplest ways to gain storage without increasing the kitchen’s footprint. Plus, you won’t have to get the stepladder out to de-cobweb the void between cabinetry and ceiling. Full-height cabinets draw the eye upward, while integrated appliances and consistent cabinet runs create a cleaner, less cluttered look. Handleless designs or slim hardware can reinforce that uninterrupted feel, particularly in contemporary kitchens.

Just as important is what’s happening inside the cabinets. Deep drawers, pull-out pantry units, corner storage solutions and well-planned internal organizers often improve everyday usability far more than simply adding another cupboard. ‘The goal isn’t simply more storage, it’s the right storage in the right place,’ explains Val. ‘Too many upper cabinets, varying cabinet depths, and busy door styles can create visual weight that overwhelms the room.’ Another common mistake is overlooking the interior organization. ‘When cabinets aren’t designed intentionally, countertops become storage by default, creating clutter that immediately makes a kitchen feel more cramped,’ she adds.

In a small kitchen, visual weight matters just as much as storage capacity. Light paint colors, pale wood finishes and the occasional glass-front cabinet can all help reflect light and break up long runs of solid cabinetry. Above all, prioritize thoughtful organization over cabinet count. A well-designed small kitchen should feel intuitive to use, not just slammed full of storage.

Understanding kitchen cabinets is one of the biggest steps in learning how to design a kitchen. Get this decision right and the rest of the project becomes a whole lot simpler. Get it wrong and no amount of fancy lighting, expensive countertops or designer bar stools will save it.