Many of your spring bulbs will have finished flowering by mid-May. If you want to boost your daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips and give them the strength to flower again next year, it is a good time to fertilize spring bulbs.

Once the flowers go over, but the foliage is still going, it is a prime window to fertilize spring bulbs. A dose of nutrients, courtesy of a high phosphorus or potassium feed, at this pivotal time of the year, replenishes energy in the bulb. It ensures the bulb has all it needs to flower again next spring.

Here, we explain why you should fertilize spring bulbs after flowering and look at some of the best products to use. Plus, experts reveal the type of feeds you need to definitely avoid using, as it can ruin next year’s display of flowers.

The Ideal Times to Fertilize Spring Bulbs

The typical windows to fertilize spring bulbs are at planting time, in early spring when the shoots are emerging, and right after flowering. It does depend on your soil type, with more regular feeding required for those on poorer soils.

When you plant spring bulbs, add some balanced or high-phosphorus fertilizer and a layer of compost (like this organic compost at Amazon) to encourage the bulbs to develop strong roots.

Going forward, a balanced or specific bulb fertilizer (such as this Bulb-tone at Walmart) should be given once the first green shoots appear.

Gardeners can also fertilize spring bulbs after flowering to boost next year’s show, which is what we are focusing on here. So, let’s start with why you should fertilize spring bulbs this month.

Why Fertilize Spring Bulbs After Flowering?

If you want to guarantee a strong display from spring bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses, and more, feeding them after they finish blooming is a good step in the right direction. It may not be a common task among gardeners, but there are strong reasons to add this to your spring gardening checklist.

Lucie Bradley, a gardening expert from Easy Garden Irrigation with almost 30 years of industry experience, says feeding after they finish blooming helps bulbs to ‘replenish their energy’ so they can put on a repeat performance next spring.

‘This is the ideal time to boost the nutrients in the soil surrounding your bulbs using a liquid fertilizer high in potash (potassium), as this provides essential nutrients, strengthening the bulbs so they can store as much energy as possible,’ says Lucie.

‘You must get the timing exactly right, as feeding too early whilst your spring bulbs are still in full bloom, then they won’t absorb the nutrients as efficiently, so you will be wasting fertilizer. You need to wait until the blooms have faded, but the foliage is still green.’

A key part of bulb maintenance is to allow the bulbs to photosynthesize for as long as possible and store energy. That includes leaving the foliage in place and deadheading spent flowers so they don’t expend energy on making seeds.

Wait until the foliage has completely died back before removing it, which should be around 4-6 weeks after it stops flowering. At this time, it is also time to lift and divide bulbs to rejuvenate older clumps and boost your spring displays.

The Best Products to Fertilize Spring Bulbs After Blooming

A good feed to fertilize spring bulbs after they finish flowering is higher in phosphorus and potassium than in nitrogen. As there is a wide range of different feeds to choose from, what do some experts recommend?

David Trinklein, horticulture specialist for the University of Missouri Extension, says on the institute’s website that ‘organic fertilizers are good choices for bulbs’. He adds: ‘They break down slowly and release their nutrients over time, so there is a reduced risk of “burning” plant roots from excessive fertilizer.’

Jean Murray, Linn County Master Gardener, writes on the Iowa State University Extension website: ‘You can fertilize bulbs after they bloom. Use a 5-10-5 or 6-10-4 fertilizer.’ Plus, David Trinklein also highlighted 5-10-5 as a sensible NPK ratio for the job.

You can get Espoma garden food fertilizer at Amazon with an NPK of 5-10-5.

Lucie Bradley advocates for using liquid feeds, saying: ‘When fertilizing bulbs once they finish flowering, I would always recommend using a liquid feed high in potassium and low in nitrogen – such as a tomato feed – as I find that a liquid feed works faster and more efficiently than a granular feed when the bulbs still have green foliage.’

You can get an organic liquid tomato food at Walmart. Alternatively, this 5-10-5 liquid fertilizer is available on Amazon is an option if you want a liquid feed with NPK plant fertilizer numbers recommended by experts.

Liquid fertilizers are faster-acting than granular ones, so they make essential nutrients available more quickly. They also come with fewer issues of burning leaves, which can happen if granular fertilizer comes into contact with the bulb’s foliage.

One thing that all experts agree on is avoiding using high-nitrogen fertilizers. While David Trinklein highlights excess nitrogen promoting root rot, Lucie Bradley warns that this fertilizing mistake encourages more foliage rather than recharging the bulbs.

‘This means that the following year, even though you think you have fed your bulbs, they will make more foliage and fewer flowers,’ she says.

What to Shop

If you are after more specific advice, we’ve got you covered. We have guides on when to fertilize daffodils and the best ways to fertilize tulips to help you get the best performances year after year.

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I love finding new ways to make my garden personal, so I'm always delighted to discover more birth month plants I can grow. With spring fast-approaching, my latest obsession is birth month bulbs.

Just like your birth month flower, there's a beautiful bulb for your birth month. But, these 12 bulbs aren't a definitive list. Rather, the Gardens team here at Homes & Gardens have expertly curated it based on when different bulbs are flowering or need planting.

The best part is you can easily grow all 12 in your yard for year-round color, so keep reading to discover your birth month bulb and tips to add it to your flower beds.

12 Beautiful Birth Month Bulbs

If you want a flourishing flower garden, why not challenge yourself to grow all 12 birth month bulbs?

Better yet, gift them to loved ones so they can enjoy a floral display on their birthday – a gift that keeps on giving.

You don't need a garden to enjoy these birth month bulbs, you can grow many bulbs in water on your windowsill indoors, too.

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Shop Bulb Planting Essentials

Seeing the number or size of flowers from your bulbs diminishing is disappointing. But a simple way to solve this problem and rejuvenate your blooms is to divide bulbs once their foliage has died down.

The sight of the earliest spring bulbs popping through the ground is a welcome relief after a cold winter. Bright pops of yellow, white, or purple, courtesy of crocuses, daffodils, and hyacinths, are followed by swathes of color from tulips and alliums. However, the performance dips if bulbs get overcrowded.

Keep a close eye on the performance of your spring bulbs over the coming months. If you see signs of decline, make a note to divide bulbs come summer. It is often very simple to separate parent bulbs from their offsets, which rejuvenates the bulbs and gives you new ones to plant. I spoke with two experts about when to divide bulbs, and got some simple tips to do it successfully and transform spring displays for the better.

The Easiest Two Bulbs to Divide

Many spring bulbs naturalize and multiply by producing offsets next to the parent bulbs. These baby bulbs can be easily separated and planted to transform a spring garden.

There is a wide range of easy-to-divide bulbs, and Kathy Jentz, gardening expert, author, and editor of the Washington Gardener Magazine, highlights two popular perennial bulbs that are perfect for division. She says: ‘Daffodils and crocuses are the top candidates as they multiply naturally and prolifically.’

As well as those easy bulbs, other suitable candidates include alliums, grape hyacinths, winter aconites, and fritillaria.

However, not all bulbs are appropriate. For example, you can divide some species of tulips, but not modern hybrid tulip types. Plus, lilies and gladiolus don’t multiply, and you can’t get new plants by dividing the bulbs.

When to Divide Bulbs for Guaranteed Success

For the best, most reliable blooming year after year, it is advisable to divide bulbs every three to five years.

The performance of bulbs can drop after several years due to overcrowding, and dividing bulbs is a great way to revitalize them and get new bulbs to plant in the garden or spring planters.

Greg Freeman, president of the Georgia Daffodil Society and past editor of The Daffodil Journal, claims there are ‘tell-tale signs’ that bulbs need dividing, and gardeners should learn to spot these signals.

‘If a gardener observes a large clump and diminishing quantity or size of flowers, that's often a sign the clump of bulbs needs to be divided,’ explains Greg.

‘A single daffodil bulb, for instance, might be planted, and in a few years the gardener might notice a circle of foliage around a bulbless center. In other words, the offsets from the original bulb have grown around it and crowded it out, essentially strangling the mother bulb.’

Dividing bulbs prevents the slowdown in growth caused by overcrowding. However, how long it takes for bulbs to reach this point does vary. As Greg says: ‘Some bulbs take nearly a decade or more to reach the point where division is helpful, while others only a few years.’

The moral of the story is to keep a close eye on your bulbs for any signs that their performance is slowing down due to being too crowded. Also, if you spot your blooms looking incredibly tightly packed in flower beds, this is also a sign that it may be time to lift and divide bulbs.

The ideal time of year to lift and divide bulbs is after the foliage has completely died down in summer. Once flowering is over and the foliage has fully browned and withered, the bulbs are going dormant and ready for dividing.

However, it is different when planting snowdrops. Rather than dividing the bulbs after they have died back, it is better to lift and divide snowdrops ‘in the green’. This means that you lift them just after flowering, while the foliage is still green.

How to Divide Bulbs Properly

You don’t need lots of garden tools to divide bulbs; a garden fork or spade, and a knife tend to be all you require. The other bit of good news is that there are only a few steps you need to follow to divide bulbs properly.

Start by using a garden spade or fork to dig around the clump and lift it from the soil. This must be done in a super-careful way to avoid damaging or cutting through the bulbs.

‘In spring, photograph bulbs and their locations so that they can easily be found when foliage and blooms are long gone,’ recommends Greg Freeman. ‘Dig straight down with a shovel in a perimeter around the clump of bulbs, not too close but far enough away that you're not digging directly into the bulbs. Digging too close at an angle still puts one at risk of damaging bulbs.

Kathy Jentz advises then ‘knock off most of the soil’ and inspect them carefully. ‘Make sure they are healthy – not soft, rotting, or blemished,’ she says. Any bulbs that are damaged or rotted should be discarded.

Once lifted, the bulbs can usually be divided by removing the small offshoots using your hands or with a sharp knife, like this garden knife at Walmart with a serrated edge.

‘When bulbs are dug properly, mother bulbs and bulblets often separate naturally with minimum effort, particularly where daffodils, snowdrops, crocuses and tulips are concerned,’ adds Greg.

When it comes to large clumps that feature many mother bulbs and offshoots, Greg recommends a slightly different approach.

‘Focus less on separating bulb offsets from large bulbs and more on reducing the size of the clump,’ he says. ‘One large clump of bulbs dug during dormancy can result in many more plants.’

Replant the bulbs at the same depth you should always plant bulbs, usually two to three times their height. Alternatively, you can pot up smaller offsets to grow on and transplant outdoors in the future. Water well after replanting, but the bulbs may take a year or two to start flowering.

If you don’t want to plant them straight away, you can store bulbs in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space and plant bulbs in the fall. Keep them somewhere dark at a temperature range of 50-60°F in a paper bag, hessian sack (like these burlap bags at Amazon), or mesh bag.

When you think about planting daffodil bulbs, look further than the classic bright yellow blooms, as there is a wide variety of narcissi bulbs you can plant for a varied display.

You can get daffodils in a range of sizes and trumpet colors, in shades of yellow, white, cream, apricot, orange, and more. Mixing and matching different types of narcissus creates a unique and long-lasting display of blooms to enjoy.

The Best Tools for Dividing Bulbs

Let's kick off with the best news: that most spring bulbs don’t require much maintenance over the winter. When you plant the likes of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, snowdrops, and more, they can often be planted and left to their own devices to flower. But it is not necessarily always the case.

There are times when you want to water, mulch, or protect your spring bulbs from pests or the winter weather. How much winter bulb maintenance you need to do will depend on your garden, climate, and how you are growing your bulbs, and here we’ve got you covered.

I spoke to bulb experts about what spring bulb maintenance you may need to do in winter after planting bulbs in the fall, and gathered their tips for the best ways to protect them. This vital information should help you get fantastic displays from your spring bulbs.

Do Planted Bulbs Need Maintenance Over Winter?

Spring bulbs are easy to care for. I planted thousands of spring bulbs every year while working in public gardens in the UK.

They were planted in flower beds and containers for vivid displays for visitors to enjoy in spring. We had to protect the bulbs from rodents that would otherwise nibble them over winter, and also made sure to protect bulbs in pots from frost damage.

There are four key areas of winter bulb maintenance that gardeners commonly ask about. Common questions cover watering, mulching, stopping bulbs from being eaten, and protecting them from frost. These are the questions I posed to the bulb experts, and they gave the following advice about winter bulb maintenance:

Should You Water Bulbs?

You want to water immediately after planting bulbs in the fall, as this settles the soil around them. After that, they can often be left over the winter, so, unless you have a dry winter, it means one less job for you to worry about.

‘If there is rainfall, you don’t need to add any water yourself,’ says Lotte Berendsen, a botanist from the PlantIn plant care app. ‘However, if the soil is getting dry, manual watering is required.’

When you do need to water the bulbs, the key is to avoid overwatering. It needs moisture to survive until spring, but the bulbs can rot sitting in cold, waterlogged soil over winter. Consider a soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) to assess the levels in the ground and avoid making watering mistakes that could ruin your bulb display.

Should You Mulch Bulbs?

Just as it is always recommended to mulch around newly-planted trees, shrubs, and perennials, there are real, tangible benefits to mulching around spring bulbs.

Bulbs don’t absolutely need to be mulched, but bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery recommends doing the task, unless they are planted in a lawn.

‘Apply 2–3 inches once the ground has cooled to insulate against temperature swings, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and support strong root development and healthy blooms,’ says the experienced horticulturist.

The ideal time to mulch bulbs is while the soil is cool and before it freezes. Getting the timing right is crucial, as Peggy adds: ‘Mulch also helps deter some critters, but applying it too early (while soil is still warm) can encourage rodents.’

If you don’t mulch bulbs in winter, Helaine Vrana, plant buyer for R.P. Marzilli & Company, advocates for doing it in spring.

‘Do so before the bulbs emerge,’ she says. ‘Adding a bulb fertilizer before mulching in spring is recommended as the bulbs are beginning to activate with the longer days and warming temperatures.’

You can get organic bulb food at Walmart to provide bulbs with essential nutrients and get a great display.

Should You Protect Bulbs From Being Eaten?

Yes, mice, squirrels, voles, chipmunks, shrews, and squirrels are all attracted to spring bulbs and may eat them as they forage for food during winter. If your garden attracts many such pests, you will need to take measures to prevent mice and squirrels from digging up bulbs during the winter.

To prevent such issues, you can plant bulbs deeper in the soil or create a physical barrier. Peggy Anne Montgomery recommends adding a chicken wire barrier (you can get a roll of chicken wire at Amazon) at planting time to make digging for bulbs difficult, which is something I also did in the gardens I worked in.

She says: ‘Cover the planted area with chicken wire or hardware cloth secured with pins or rocks, and remove it in spring as shoots emerge.’

An alternative and natural way to protect bulbs is to mix up the planting and include bulbs that are disliked by rodents, including bulbs that squirrels don’t eat. ‘Pair favorites like tulips and crocus with less-tasty bulbs such as daffodils, fritillaria, or hyacinths, ’ advises Peggy.

Other methods to prevent bulbs from becoming food for pests over winter include laying thorny plant material, such as holly leaves or rose stems, over the area, while some gardeners use a spray made of cayenne pepper to deter squirrels and other rodents.

Should You Move Bulbs in Containers?

When you plant bulbs in pots, they are never as insulated as those in the ground. As there is only the compost in the container between the bulbs and the winter frost, it is advisable to keep the pots somewhere protected to prevent damage.

‘Bulbs in pots are susceptible to freezing solid,’ warns Helaine Vrana. ‘After planting, keep the pots in a cold frame or cold greenhouse and keep temperatures between 35-50°F.

Alternative frost-free places to keep spring bulbs growing in pots over the winter include a shed, garage, or porch. You can also move pots together for winter to insulate them, preferably keeping them by a protective wall and beneath an overhang to protect from excessive winter rain and waterlogging.

You can take the gamble of leaving containers outside over winter, but Peggy advises making sure the bulbs need to be hardy to at least two zones warmer than your own to guarantee they survive intact.

‘For example, if you’re in zone 7, choose bulbs rated for zone 5 or warmer to ensure they survive the colder temperatures,’ she says.

Otherwise, they will definitely need protection. You can do this by grouping pots, as mentioned above, covering them with straw mulch or frost cloth, or using winter pot covers to protect pots and planters from frost, such as these winter plant pot covers on Amazon.

While winter bulb maintenance will help you get the best displays, there are some bulb planting mistakes you must always avoid that could ruin your potential blooms. It includes planting them too early, at the wrong depth, too close together, and overwatering them.

Doing any of these common mistakes will impact your spring displays, whether you get the winter bulb maintenance correct or not. To avoid falling foul, check out our guide to these common bulb planting mistakes so you get the spring blooms of your dreams.

Shop Useful Tools for Winter Bulb Maintenance:

We gardeners all like to get jobs done at the right time, but it isn’t always possible. This may lead many to ponder ‘Can I plant tulips in December?’ as they stare at neglected bags of tulip bulbs they haven’t got round to planting, or admire new packets of dazzling varieties they haven’t tried that are still on sale in garden centres.

If you are running that debate about when to plant tulips through your mind, then rest assured that it is not too late. Tulips are pretty merciful bulbs; you can plant them in December and still get a display of blooms in spring.

This month may not be the traditional ideal time to plant tulips, but it can be done. Whether you plan to plant spring bulbs in the ground or in pots, you can get the job done in December, but be speedy about it if you haven’t gotten around to it yet. There is also an unorthodox planting approach you can take if your ground is already frozen.

Is It Too Late to Plant Tulips in December? When You Can, and Can’t Plant Them

This guide looks at the classic conundrum: Can I plant tulips in December? I chatted to an experienced gardener, designer, and educator to reveal when it is and isn’t possible to plant your favourite types of tulips in mid-winter, and the options you have if your ground isn’t suitable for planting this month.

If the conditions are right, it may mean getting the bulb planter out of the shed, and something like this carbon steel bulb planter at Walmart might be an essential gardening tool if you’ve got lots of tulip bulbs to plant.

Can I Plant Tulips in December?

Traditionally, November is the best time to plant tulip bulbs. It is the perfect time to plant them to combat tulip fire, as the soil is cooler and the fungus that causes the issue is less prevalent.

However, as fall and winter gardening checklists can be long, and so many outside influences can rob you of time (I’m talking weather that doesn’t play ball and the planning for Thanksgiving and Christmas that can be very distracting), it is no surprise that sometimes jobs drift outside of the ‘perfect’ window.

Thankfully, it is not the end of the world if you haven’t got all your tulips planted by the end of November.

There is still time. Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden Masterclass, describes tulip bulbs as ‘pretty forgiving as long as you plant them when it’s cold’. She adds: ‘If you can dig in the ground (it’s not frozen), you can still plant them.’

Tulip bulbs need to be exposed to cold for a period to trigger their growth. This can be achieved by planting them in December, especially if you live in climates with mild winters.

Provided the conditions are right, December can give them the winter chill they need to burst into life. If you are worried it’s too late, there can still be enough time for a spring display, and, as the adage says, better late than never.

‘Now, mid-to-end of December isn’t the ‘ideal’ planting time for tulips, so it’s possible they may not bloom as well as if you planted earlier,’ adds Laura. ‘However, if you procrastinated (like many people), you should definitely give it a shot, as most likely they will be ok.

‘There are no guarantees with nature, but going ahead and planting is way better than not doing it at all.’ That last sentiment is definitely true; it is better to plant the tulip bulbs and give them a chance, rather than leave the bag sitting in the shed and risk being nibbled by mice, rats, or squirrels or rotting.

If you plant tulip bulbs in December, they may bloom later or produce smaller blooms. But there is a risk that they will not bloom at all. However, perennial varieties such as species tulips, fosteriana tulips, and greigii tulips will start blooming the following year if they don’t appear next spring.

‘Just keep in mind that many tulips won't bloom a second time, so people treat them as annuals,’ adds Laura. ‘The Darwin hybrid variety is very reliable if you want a greater chance of a return.’ You can get a great mix of jumbo Darwin tulips at Dutch Grown that will re-flower year-on-year.

As mentioned earlier, the conditions need to be suitable for planting tulips in December. If the soil is frozen or if you have soil that becomes waterlogged over winter, planting tulips this month would be a bulb planting mistake.

Thankfully, if the conditions aren’t right, there is a different way to start your tulips. Laura claims you can take advantage of a ‘second chance’ to plant tulips in the spring by buying potted tulips, or you can do it yourself by starting bulbs off indoors during December.

‘Transplant potted plants into the ground when temperatures are consistently around 55 degrees,’ adds the expert. ‘Pay attention if there’s a frost or the temperature drops, and cover the plants with a frost cloth to protect tulips from frost.’

To plant tulips indoors in December, fill a large pot with soil for container gardening (such as this premium organic potting mix at Burpee) and plant the bulbs at twice their depth. Keep this container in a sheltered position for winter, or in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame to protect it from the worst of the winter frosts and snow.

You can get tulips to reflower next year; the key is knowing what to do with tulips after they bloom. The best results will come with lifting and storing tulip bulbs, and this process starts with deadheading tulips. This means the plant puts energy into the bulb rather than creating seeds.

Once the leaves have naturally died back, gently lift the bulbs. Remove the old foliage and any soil from the bulbs, then allow them to dry out. The best place to store tulips is in paper or net bags in a dry, sheltered place. There are no guarantees that tulips will keep performing year after year, so it is beneficial to buy new spring bulbs to plant in the fall to add to your displays.

Shop bulb planting tools:

Winter is often a time of reflection, where we start to think about how we want our gardens to look next year. Among the plants we switch out, it's important to establish some reliable foundations that provide a framework for the yard.

I recently spoke to some of the experts at Chicago Botanic Garden who revealed one of their favorite ways to do this: planting ornamental grass and bulb pairings. They explain the grasses provide a permanent foundation, decorated by spring bulbs. The grasses then hide the unsightly fading flowers and foliage later in the year, making it an effective duo.

It's a garden idea that provides a beautiful display at any one point in the year, especially when you use evergreen grasses. Over time, this design trick becomes low-effort, too, as bulbs naturalize, spread, and go through a flowering cycle with minimal effort. Here, I've compiled the best ornamental grass and bulb pairings to provide any bed, border, or even part of a lawn with a dazzling display.

3 Stunning Ornamental Grass and Bulb Pairings

This design trick is most effective when you naturalize bulbs, i.e. plant them in a way that allows them to spread and multiply on their own. Each spring, they'll pop up and offer some color among the ornamental grasses without you having to replant each year. It's one of the best ways to achieve naturalistic planting.

1. Moor Grass and Daffodils

• Best for: meadow-style planting

This ornamental grass and bulb pairing comes straight from Chicago Botanic Garden, specifically the Shida Evaluation Garden.

There, mounds of moor grass offer year-round interest, turning from deep green in summer to bronze and orange in fall.

As spring comes along, 20,000 daffodils emerge on the mounds. At this time, the moor grass has new growth with light green blades forming a backdrop to the sea of daffodils.

As the daffodils die back, the moor grass fills out to offer dense foliage that hides the fading daffodils.

Alongside this effortless cycle the pair go through, they also work well together because they thrive in a well-draining soil type.

Plus, moor grass forms tight root clumps that don't disrupt or damage daffodil bulbs beneath the ground.

You can personalize this to your garden color scheme by choosing from the many types of narcissus and moor grasses, including the striking purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea).

Explore daffodil bulbs at Burpee.

Find moor grass seeds on Amazon.

2. Fountain Grass and Alliums

• Best for: dramatic texture

If you're looking for an ornamental grass and bulb pairing for height in the middle or back of the border, grass and lawn expert Steven Corcoran recommends fountain grass and alliums.

'In early spring you want to cut back fountain grass to encourage new healthy growth,' Steve says. 'Tall alliums, like 'Purple Sensation' (bulbs from Amazon), provide height during this time,' he adds.

As the fountain grass puts on new growth, it adds texture to this display.

Towards the ends of summer, fountain grass flowers form, with fluffy foxtail blooms taking over interest as allium flowers fade.

Once again, there are lots of allium bulbs and types of fountain grass to choose from, so you can personalize how much their height differs in your yard.

For example, 'Purple Sensation' stands tall at around 30 inches, looking even more dramatic when underplanted by 12-inch 'Little Bunny' fountain grass. The latter also has a pink tint to its flowers in later summer and fall, nodding to the purple alliums that were previously blooming there.

Explore allium bulbs at Burpee.

Explore fountain grass varieties at Nature Hills.

3.  Leatherleaf Sedge and Crocus

• Best for: front of the border

For the front of a border, or even in a container, one of the best ornamental grass and bulb pairings is leatherleaf sedge and crocus bulbs – though crocus is technically a corm.

This is because both are shorter in height, with leatherleaf sedge forming clumps no taller than a couple of feet. You can then plant crocus to sit in front, reaching a height of six inches and adding bright pops of white, purple, and yellow to a backdrop of coppery foliage.

The beauty of this pairing is that you can also plant fall crocus for successional blooming just a few months after spring crocus fades, extending the display.

They work well together as companion plants, both preferring well-draining soil and a full sun position.

Find spring crocus bulbs on Amazon.

You can also try swapping out leatherleaf sedge for the many other types of sedge grass (view the selection available at Nature Hills).

FAQs

Can I Grow Ornamental Grasses and Bulbs Together in a Pot?

Yes, you can grow the best ornamental grasses and bulb pairings in a pot, so long as both are suited to this environment. It can bring stunning texture and color to your container garden, as well as year-round interest. Pots will work best for grasses and bulbs that like well-draining soil and don't mind being contained, otherwise you may end up with pot-bound plants. Just take care to use a planter large enough for a dynamic display like this, providing sufficient room for both plant's roots.

When creating your ornamental grass and bulb planting scheme, make sure not to make bulb planting mistakes. This includes planting them at the wrong depth. The below bulb planting accessories can help make your efforts a success:

There's no doubt that October is one of the busiest months for us gardeners. From pruning to planting and winterizing ahead of frost, there's a time pressure to get everything done before it becomes too cold and wet. But, Gravetye Manor's Head Gardener, Tom Coward, says there's one tool that helps him and his team work efficiently at this time of year: a bulb planter.

Gravetye Manor is a historic Victorian garden in the English countryside of Sussex. Throughout its flower borders and meadows, thousands of bulbs are planted for impressive spring color. Instead of struggling through the strenuous task of digging holes, Tom and his team use a bulb planter to cut perfect bulb-sized cut-outs for planting.

It's a tool to have in your bag for fall, but also one that will prove useful come spring. For Tom, it allows Gravetye's bulbs to be planted in just a fraction of the time, making this essential task a joy to do.

Why Tom Coward's Bulb Planter is an Essential for Fall

When it comes to bulbs to plant in October, Tom says a bulb planting tool is essential for time efficiency, less strain, and enjoyment.

'One of the most useful tools in the garden in fall is our Sneeboer bulb planter (available directly from Sneeboer),' he says.

'It punches out cores of soil so we can plant new bulbs into our wildflower meadows,' Tom adds.

At Gravetye Manor, an expansive wildflower meadow creates a carpet of color in spring. Planting bulbs en masse, such as planting bulbs for naturalizing, can be time-consuming and strenuous, but it creates an impactful display.

With a bulb planter that instantly cuts a hole in place, you can get bulbs in the ground much more quickly. Plus, those with depth markers can help you avoid bulb planting mistakes by creating the perfect dimensions for the bulbs you're planting.

'It is one of the most enjoyable tools to use at this time of year as we introduce new daffodils, crocus, and wild tulips,' Tom says.

Our Top 3 Bulb Planter Picks

If you're keen to incorporate some bulb planting trends in your yard next year, now is the time to get them planted. There are a few different types of bulb planting tools to help you get the job done, so we compiled our top three picks (and they're currently all on sale):

With your bulb planter in hand, you can try drift planting with bulbs. Just make sure to read up on how deep to plant the bulbs to ensure they establish nicely over winter for successful spring blooming.

Fall is a busy time for us gardeners as we work hard to get our yards ready for winter and prepared for spring. One of the most vital things to get done in October is planting all your spring bulbs, ahead of the first frost.

Bulb planting earns its place at the top of the fall gardening checklist for a good reason. Getting your bulbs in the ground now gives them a crucial cold period, setting them up for strong root establishment and bright blooms. Careful planning around which bulbs to plant in October will reward you with a spring garden exploding with vibrant color.

From yellow daffodils to purple hyacinths and a rainbow range of tulips, there are so many possibilities for a spring display. If you're feeling overwhelmed by the choice, look no further. Here, I've compiled the best bulbs to plant in October for spring color, with tips from experts on how to get the most out of them.

7 bulbs to plant in October for spring color

Many of these bulbs are perennial bulbs to plant in fall, meaning they will provide you with returning blooms each year. Just take care to consider your US hardiness zone when choosing from the spring bulbs below, to ensure you plant ones that are suited to your local climate.

1. Crocus

• US hardiness zone: 3-8
• Flowering time: January-March

Crocus is one of the most versatile 'bulbs' (technically corms) to plant in October. As pictured above, these typically purple and white blooms are impactful when planted en masse on a lawn as a bulb for naturalizing, but they can also work well in borders and pots.

'Crocuses tend to do well in cold climates, and many multiply well. As long as winter has regular cool nights and cool days, crocus should perform well,' says master gardener Mary Jane Duford from Home for the Harvest

'In warm winter climates (US hardiness zone 9–10 and above), crocuses struggle because they require winter chilling. If your area doesn't drop below about 40°F for a month or two, you'll need to pre-chill crocus corms for reliable blooms,' Mary advises.

When planting crocus bulbs, plant them 3-4 inches deep and close together. You can use this bulb planting tool with a depth marker from Amazon to help with this.

Find crocus bulbs at Burpee.

Find crocus bulbs at Amazon.

Find crocus bulbs at True Leaf Market.

2. Daffodils

• US hardiness zone: 3-8
• Flowering time: January-May

Daffodils are some of the most classic spring bulbs and for many, they're the first sign of spring as they emerge early in the season.

'Daffodils are a fantastic choice for a perennial garden as they reliably return year after year and are naturally deer-resistant,' says Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden.

'For an appealing garden layout, plant daffodil bulbs about a third of the way back in your garden beds rather than along the border. This allows other plants to hide their fading foliage,' she advises.

While the iconic yellow varieties bring lots of color, there are other varieties of narcissi bulbs to consider, too.

For example, these Replete Daffodil Bulbs from Burpee are a beautiful white variety with ruffled petals and a peach center.

To enhance your display, pair them with plants that complement daffodils, such as monkey grass and irises.

Find daffodil bulbs at Burpee.

Find daffodil bulbs at Amazon.

Find daffodil bulbs at True Leaf Market.

3. Tulips

• US hardiness zone: 3-8
• Flowering time: March-May

Tulips are the ultimate spring flower and one of the best bulbs to plant in October for spring color because they come in an endless number of hues, variegations, and even shapes – just take a look at our guide to the different types of tulips. Some of the most eye-catching are fringed tulips.

'Tulips are a delightful way to bring vibrant color to your spring garden. However, they tend to have a shorter bloom time compared to other bulbs. To extend the display, mix different tulip varieties with varying bloom times,' Laura suggests

'Since tulips typically last only a year or two, we often treat them as annuals and replant them each season,' she adds.

For this reason, after tulips bloom and their foliage has died back, you should lift them and store them over the summer until it's time to replant in the fall.

They work particularly well in containers as some of the easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots. Just take care to plant tulip bulbs correctly, with the pointed tip facing upwards.

Find tulip bulbs at Burpee.

Find tulip bulbs at Amazon.

Find tulip bulbs at True Leaf Market.

4. Camassia

• US hardiness zone: 4-9
• Flowering time: April-June

Alongside the classic yellows and pinks of spring bulbs, consider adding some blue flowers into the mix. Camassia is a great option for this, and it also comes in hues of creamy white and pale pink.

To grow camassia, plant the bulbs 3–4 inches deep. They can reach a height of three feet heigh, making them a good addition to the back of displays.

For this reason, camassia are on the list of bulbs to never plant in pots, though they do perform well in sunny borders and adapt well to partial shade.

Find camassia bulbs at Burpee.

Find camassia bulbs at Amazon.

5. Hyacinths

• US hardiness zone: 4-8
• Flowering time: March-April

For pastel spring hues, choose hyacinth varieties. These are particularly impressive when you grow hyacinth bulbs in containers packed closely together.

'Hyacinth bulbs are a bit smaller than large tulips or daffodils, but still substantial. Plant hyacinth bulbs about 4–6 inches deep and space them a minimum of 4–6 inches apart,' Mary advises.

'You should use gloves (like these floral gardening gloves from Amazon) when handling hyacinth bulbs, as they contain oxalic acid that can cause minor skin irritation for some people,' she warns.

These bulbs produce clusters of charming blooms in all colors, from pink, purple, white and even yellow. They're great for filling in gaps between taller bulbs, too, as they typically reach between 6–12 inches tall.

Find hyacinth bulbs at Burpee.

Find hyacinth bulbs at Amazon.

Find hyacinth bulbs at True Leaf Market.

6. Alliums

• US hardiness zone: 3-9
• Flowering time: May-July

If your aim is to create a pollinator garden for spring, then add alliums to your list of bulbs to plant in October. These spherical blooms are bee and butterfly magnets.

The most common colors of alliums are purple and white, with 'Purple Sensation' (bulbs from Amazon) being one of the most popular varieties, thanks to its large flowerheads and staggering height of three feet.

Other varieties of alliums are much smaller. 'Ping Pong' (bulbs from Amazon), for example, reaches just 24 inches in height.

Plant allium bulbs at a depth of two or three times the height of the bulb. You can use this garden bulb trowel with a depth marker from Amazon to help with the measurements.

Find allium bulbs from Burpee.

Find allium bulbs at Amazon.

Find allium bulbs at True Leaf Market.

7. Snake's head fritillary

• US hardiness zone: 3-8
• Flowering time: April-May

One of the most unusual bulbs to plant in fall delivers a unique purple bloom with a checkered pattern. Snake's head fritillary is an eye-catching flower that is popular for planting in lawns, borders, and pots.

As well as the classic purple variety, these bulbs also come in white.

To grow snake's head fritillary, plant bulbs at a depth of 3-5 inches in the fall. Make sure to choose a partial shade position, where they tend to perform best.

It's also key to let them naturally die back after flowering, allowing green foliage to stay for as long as possible to conserve energy in the bulb for next year's growth.

Find snake's head fritillary bulbs at Burpee.

Find snake's head fritillary bulbs at Amazon.

FAQs

Is it too late to plant spring bulbs in November?

November is not necessarily too late to plant spring bulbs, especially if planting bulbs in containers undercover (like in a greenhouse) for earlier blooming. But many regions will already be experiencing frost by November. Once frost arrives, it can be very difficult to work with the ground to plant bulbs. Instead, aim to plant bulbs before frost, which will also give them a sufficient amount of cold exposure through fall and winter before starting root development.

Choosing a number of these bulbs to plant in October is guaranteed to put on a colorful display in your yard come spring. For more tips on planting this season, check out our guide to planting bulbs in fall.

Shop bulb planting tools:

Fall is an exceptionally busy time for us gardeners, as we work hard to tick off all our planting tasks before the coldest weather arrives. If you've found yourself pushed for time this season, consider a low-maintenance option that is guaranteed to give you flamboyant displays with minimal effort: the easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots.

If you're keen to give your container garden a fresh look for spring but you don't know where to start, then choosing some of the easiest bulbs is guaranteed to give you a bright and dazzling display. Of course, you have to be particular about which bulbs to grow in pots, as some are better suited to planting in the ground.

To help you make the right choices. I've asked a gardening expert for her top picks. Here, she shares the easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots that you can plant now and practically forget about until they start emerging in spring.

5 easy spring bulbs to grow in pots

A spring garden isn't complete without the brightest bulbs, but it isn't just about infusing color in your borders. The easiest spring bulbs to grow in pots are a low-effort solution to creating impactful spring planters. Here, a gardening expert explains how to grow them successfully.

1. Tulips

A classic spring flower for pots: tulips. Not only are they often a symbol of the season, but they're actually very straightforward to grow in pots.

'Tulips are my favorite spring bulb to plant in pots. They come in a variety of colors and shapes,' says Lindsey Chastain, experienced homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

These bulbs aren't always reliable perennials, often bred to put on an amazing first-year spectacle. This is why planting tulip bulbs in pots works well, making it easy to remove them after flowering.

'To get the most out of your pot of tulips for the season, succession plant in the early, mid, and late spring. That way you will have blooms all season,' Lindsey advises. 'The bulbs don't need much space and can be planted very close together in the pot,' she adds.

Make sure to plant your tulip bulbs at a depth of 6-8 inches in your pots, around 2-3 inches apart. You can use this bulb planter with a depth marker from Amazon to help.

Discover the range of tulip bulbs at Burpee.

Discover the range of tulip bulbs at Amazon.

2. Daffodils

Planting daffodils in pots is another easy spring flower to grow. They're early bloomers, too, so will provide a cheerful display as the winter months come to an end.

In pots, daffodils should be planted at a depth of 4-6 inches, with the pointed edge sticking upwards.

There are lots of types of daffodils to choose from, but the easiest to grow in pots are those with shorter stems. For example, 'Tête-à-Tête' (bulbs from Amazon) is a dwarf variety that is popular for pots. The shorter stems prevent the flowers flopping over in the often less-stable environment of a planter.

Discover the range of daffodil bulbs at Burpee.

Discover the range of daffodil bulbs at Amazon.

Shop beautiful planters for your spring blooms

3. Snake's head fritillary

Growing snake's head fritillaries will reward you with striking purple and white blooms, reminiscent of tulip flowers that droop over. In pots, these bulbs can make an excellent focal point.

'If you are going for an English or fairy garden, they are the perfect addition,' says Lindsey. 'They like partial shade so a pot on a patio is perfect for them ,or underneath taller flowers that will provide a bit of shade,' she adds.

A bonus is snake's head fritillaries are hardy perennial plants and will reliably return each year, without the extra effort of overwintering. However, if you live in a particularly frosty regions, consider wrapping pots with burlap (from Amazon) to provide some insulation over winter.

Avoid bulb planting mistakes by planting your snake's head bulbs around four inches apart.

Find snake's head fritillary bulbs on Amazon.

4. Hyacinths

Hyacinths are some of the most impressive bulbs for pots. Coming in all colors from yellow, pink, blue, and white, hyacinth varieties produce densely-packed, bell-shaped blooms.

They're a great addition to a fragrant garden, favored for their sweet smell. This also makes them popular as bulbs to force indoors for Christmas.

When growing hyacinth bulbs in containers, they are particularly impactful when packed closely together. You can plant the bulbs around 4-5 inches deep and should use a container with good drainage.

If you're using a large pot, follow our guide to what to put in the bottom of a planter for drainage. These pebbles from Amazon are a good option, for example.

Discover the range of hyacinth bulbs at Burpee.

Discover the range of hyacinth bulbs on Amazon.

5. Alliums

For a thriller in your spring thriller, spiller, filler container, consider alliums. While there are some towering allium varieties, like 'Purple Sensation,' there are other smaller stem varieties more suited to pots.

'They bloom a bit later in the season so if you are trying to attract pollinators, it can help extend your display a bit longer,' says Lindsey.

Some of the easiest alliums for pots include 'Schubertii' (bulbs available at Amazon) and 'Graceful Beauty' (bulbs available at Amazon).

'They like to be planted pretty deep in the soil (about 4-6 inches) and need really good drainage,' Lindsey notes.

Discover the range of alliums at Burpee.

Discover the range of allium bulbs on Amazon.

FAQs

Can I plant spring bulbs in spring?

It is very unlikely you will have an impressive spring display if you plant bulbs in the same season. Instead, you should plant spring bulbs in fall, giving them enough time to establish a strong root system for blooming in spring. Each type of bulb will be different, but you should generally aim to get all your spring bulbs planted by late fall, before the first frost.

If you're working with limited space, consider opting for some of the best miniature bulbs. They're ideal for planters, alongside low-maintenance plants for pots.

As soon as Christmas passes and we hurtle into spring, many look out for the first sign of life: the emerging albino head of the crocus, or an early flame bud of a daffodil. For many, these are the quintessential harbinger of spring. For me, though, I only feel the pure delight of spring run through my veins at the first sight of a snake's head fritillary poking through the soil in early April. A beautiful sight to behold.

Though snake's heads aren't the only fritillaria that gets my pulse racing. The Fritillaria genus is larger and more complex than perhaps you might think, with several highly covetable varieties, each as dashingly handsome and peculiar as the next. They are some of the very best spring bulbs for wildlife and pollinators, and add to the beautiful tapestry of a well-formed, varied spring garden.

Here’s a guide to some of the very best and most beautiful fritillaria varieties and my top picks of the bulbs to get your hands on now.

Snake's Head Fritillaries (Fritillaria meleagris)

These are the fritillaries many of us are familiar with, but they're so impossibly beautiful and dainty, spotting one is something like spotting a fairy, a rare, magical thing.

Snake's head fritillaries love woodland conditions, so they tolerate shade, making them some of the best plants to underplant trees or live in shade-drenched grasses and meadows. They grow in USDA zones 5a-9b and prefer damp, humus-rich soil that remains consistently moist but not waterlogged.

These pretty, pendant flowers come in a classic deep plum shade that we most commonly see, with its distinctive checkerboard markings, or the white flowered Fritillaria meleagris 'Alba', which looks stunning mingled with the cuckoo flower (Cardamine pratensis) and the classic bell-shaped blossom Muscari Grape Ice from Dutch Grown.

You can purchase Fritillaria meleagris bulbs from Dutch Grown, plant them in October for spring flowers, and leave them in the ground during their dormancy for blooms year after year.

Persian Lily (Fritillaria persica)

Fritillaria persica, also known as Persian Lily, is a very elegant, tall bulbous perennial originating from the Middle East. It's one of the largest of its tribe, soaring to a lofty 4ft tall, adding necessary height and vertical interest to spring borders.

It's easy to grow in USDA zones 4-8, is deer and rabbit-resistant, and makes for a truly stunning cut flower for spring arrangements.

The two Fritillaria persica varieties I recommend are:

Fritillaria persica 'Ivory Bells'

I adore the greenish-white bell-shaped flowers on this fritillary. Planted en masse in spring beds, they look utterly divine amongst swathes of forget-me-nots and tulip foxy foxtrot, available at Dutch Grown. It is a planting combination I have worked with before, and the result is staggeringly beautiful.

As long as they are planted in well-drained soil, they make for beautiful container gardening ideas, too, especially as they are hardy and very tolerant of most conditions.

Fritillaria persica 'Adiyaman'

What a sensationally beautiful fritillary. So beautiful and tactile, you simply can't help but reach out and touch it.

Its gray-green foliage precedes the long, conical cluster of drooping, mauve, bell-shaped flowers. A mesmerising addition to mixed borders, but it also looks stunning in large flower pots with the little heads of muscari and peach-hued daffodils, like Daffodil peach prince, available at Dutch Grown.

You can purchase Fritillaria persica 'Adiyaman' bulbs from Eden Brothers.

Crown Imperials (Fritillaria imperialis)

Rather arresting, statuesque plants that look like a work of art when planted in large groups.

Fritillaria imperialis are super reliable growers and grow in hardiness zones 3-9.

They can soar to an impressive height of up to 5ft, so they often work perfectly at the back or middle of a border. There are several crown imperial varieties, but these are the two I recommend:

Fritillaria imperialis 'Rubra'

Wondering how to create a maximalist border? Then these Fritillaria imperialis 'Rubra' should be on your wish list.

Orange bell-shaped flowers are topped with a crown of leaves, rather like a silly floppy fringe. It grows to around 44 inches tall and is frequented by hummingbirds and honeybees.

They only bloom for a couple of weeks, but what a magnificent riot of color they are. Once blooming is over, I leave the seedheads in place, which add architectural interest for several more weeks.

You can buy Fritillaria imperialis 'Rubra' bulbs at Nature Hills.

Fritillaria Raddeana

If you tend to shy away from crown imperials for fear that they are too exotic-looking for a naturalistic planting scheme, this variety has changed the game somewhat.

Fritillaria Raddeana, which is available to pre-order Fritillaria Raddeana bulbs from Dutch Grown is a newly enhanced fritillaria with lovely creamy flowers tinged with e hint of citrus lime.

Fully hardy, so long as it is planted in the sunshine and in well-drained soil, it will flower throughout spring without any fuss. It's one of the best plants for pollinators, too, being a magnet for native bees and well known to attract butterflies in droves.

Chocolate Lily (Fritillaria affinis)

Native to Western North America, the chocolate lily is an impossibly delicate and graceful. Ideal for zones 5-9, they come up to flower on banks, borders, meadows, and even happily in pots. Once snipped and added to vases for table decorations, you will be well and truly hooked on them for life.

The chocolate rice lily (Fritillaria camschatcensis) is a staggeringly beautiful cousin of the chocolate lily. Whilst not the same thing, they are closely related.

The chocolate rice lily has the most beautifully delicate chocolate brown flowers with sleepy nodding heads that catch the slightest wind. Truly mesmerizing. They grow to around 60cm (23in) and look beautiful dotted in among wildflower meadows. You can buy chocolate rice lily seeds from Ferri Seeds.

Michael's Flower (Fritillaria michailovskyi)

It's close to impossible to pick my favourite spring bulbs of all time, but certainly this fritillaria variety would make the roster if I were forced to choose. It is a breathtaking little flower, unlike any other of the fritillary variety.

With a dwarf habit, it only grows around 25cm (10in) tall with small nodding, claret red flowers with butter yellow tips. They are highly unusual and a rarity to see, so it's worth getting your hands on them if you ever see them. They grow in zones 5-8, preferring full sun and well-drained soil.

They look dazzling on their own in terracotta planters, or interplanted with narcissi bulbs.

Shop beautiful frarillaria accessories

In terms of caring for your fritillaries, whilst the genus is varied, and so care depends on the particular fritillaria varieties you're growing in your plot, on the whole, they are very reliable, high-impact bulbs with very little need for anything.

Fritillaries generally can find what they need from the soil, but you can apply an organic fertilizer in spring to encourage strong flowering. I find that organic flower-tone plant food available at Amazon works best, and it can be used in vases for cut flowers too, to keep them flowering for much longer.

As the curtains drop on summer and fall is looming large, many of us turn our attention to fall-flowering bulbs. They're stalwarts in the garden, however, it's easy to forget to plant them, or get muddled between fall-flowering and spring bulbs.

Planting masses of fall-flowering bulbs means that when the garden seems to run out of steam, it is jolted back into action with colorful bulbs that light up the garden in late summer, fall, and in some cases in winter. But which to choose?

There are many fall-flowering bulbs available (and you'd have to look for them in flower if you wanted to plant them now), but it's hard to know which ones to invest money and time in. Here are six of the very best fall-flowering bulbs to look out for.

The best fall flowering bulbs

1. Cyclamen

There are several hardy and easy autumn-flowering cyclamen species you can grow in your garden. Hardy cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium) is a truly spectacular cyclamen that will tolerate almost any conditions. It is fully hardy and produces an abundance of dainty blooms which nod gracefully on wiry stems.

Cyclamen tubers, which are slightly different from bulbs, but behave, as far as the gardener is concerned, in the same way, produce foliage well into fall and into the spring, and then go dormant for the summer.

Cyclamen hederifolium is one of the very best plants for under trees, being a pretty woodland plant that brings some much much-needed color to the garden when everything else is slipping into a slumber.

Hardiness zone: 4-9

You can purchase Cylamen heerifolium at Plants Delights Nursery.

2. Oxalis

Many people know how to grow oxalis as a houseplant, but it's my hope that more people will start to plant it outside in their gardens, especially those varieties that have a blooming period that spans multiple seasons.

Whilst some varieties are spring or summer flowering plants, there are a few stunning cultivars that bloom in October, November, and right up to Christmas.

These include the oh-so pretty Oxalis 'Autumn Pink', the boiled sweet look-a-like, Oxalis Versicolor (which looks as though it has been plucked from a Dr Seuss storybook), and Oxalis spiralis aurea, Amber Plum Crazy, which has beautiful auburn leaves, perfect for fall.

Hardiness zone: 5-10

You can purchase Oxalis bulbs from Dutch Grown.

3. Colchicum ' The Autumn Crocus'

Think of a crocus, and we tend to think of those little quintessential harbingers of spring. Pretty crocus heads piercing through the icy cold winter ground. So what, then, is the 'Autumn crocus'?

The Autumn crocus is not, in fact, a crocus at all but a species of Colchicum, a group of fall-flowering bulbs in the lily family (Lilaceae). Sometimes referred to as 'naked ladies' (as they don't produce foliage, only flowers), these larger-than-life blooms grow from bulb-like corms and flower non-stop in fall and into winter.

There are two colchiums worth keeping your eyes peeled for: Colchicum autumnale, which has a pretty pink color, and Colchicum speciosum 'Album', which is, of course, white.

Both of these species form large drifts and will grow in sun and shade.

Hardiness zones: 4-9

You can purchase Autumn-flowering Colchicum from Ferri Seeds.

4. Alstroemeria

Alstroemerias are fantastic performing herbaceous perennials, which grow from bulb-like tubers, producing new stems each spring and flowering all summer and all autumn, then dying down over winter.

There is a wide range of cultivars to choose from, all of which are hardy and can tolerate cold temperatures, returning year after year, for many years.

That said, pick a place in your garden that receives as much sun as possible when deciding when to plant them, as they reach their maximum potential when they are able to get lots of light.

Hardiness zones: 6-10

You can purchase Alstroemeria from Edelweiss Perennials.

5. Nerine

During late fall, there is one plant that erupts in a riot of color that befits summer rather more than the sleepy cold months, but lights up the garden just when you thought everything was over.

All Nerine plants are perennial bulbs that bloom in fantastic colors from September- November. Most nerines are pink, but there are many varieties with white, vermillion red, and magenta flowers.

Plant nerine bulbs in late summer, and once established, nerines need little or no attention.

Hardiness zone: 8-11

You can purchase Nerines from Manor Stores.

6. Crocosmia

Crocosmia is, by in large, one of the most underrated cottage garden plants with so much to give to a garden, and the blazing spires of many Crocosmia varieties continue to bloom throughout summer and right through fall.

There are early-flowering crocosmia, mid-season flowering crocosmia, and late-season crocosmia. If you want these flame-like flowers in fall, it's the latter you want to keep your eyes peeled for.

A few varieties to consider for this are the tangerine colored Crocosmia 'Star Of The East', grown en masse at Great Dixter, and particularly superb around Halloween time when it looks staggering with its pumpkin orange spikes.

Crocosmia 'Late Lucifer', which, as befits its name, blooms several weeks later than its famous cousin, Crocosmia Lucifer and Crocosmia × crocosmioides 'Castle Ward Late which flowers well into late November.

Hardiness zones: 6-9

You can purchase Crocosmia corms at Nature Hills.

If you are planning to head out into the garden in the coming days to plant bulbs, then we strongly recommend getting a long-handled bulb planter like this bulb transplanter from Amazon to save you a backache. Remember, there is nothing a garden loves more than being planted with hundreds of bulbs, so plant generously in great swathes.

As a professional gardener, there are certain bulbs I return to every year without fail. Take ‘Apricot Beauty’ tulips, for example. These pastel peach blooms have followed me from garden to garden during different placements working in the UK and Italy. Importantly, however, popular bulb varieties, including 'Apricot Beauty', sell out fast, and gardeners seem to be ordering earlier and earlier each year. So, if you want your first choice of tulips and daffodils, now is the time to act.

While I do have my favorites, I like to use bulb selection and ordering as an opportunity to try something new each season. A bold hyacinth, a ruffled parrot tulip that feels a bit over the top. That's the joy of bulbs – they allow you to play. You can chip and change and try something a little different.

So, whether you want to try something new or stick to the classics, now is a great time to get ordering to avoid disappointment. Here, I reveal all I know about how to order bulbs in August, and seven of my must-have varieties of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more that will inject color and joy into your spring garden.

7 flower bulbs to order in August before it is too late

Ordering spring bulbs in August is a wise move if you want the best varieties, but it does mean that knowing how to store bulbs is important, as you might not be planting them for a few weeks or even months.

I would always suggest keeping your bulbs in a cool, dry and well-ventilated spot in the garden shed. Do not, I repeat, do not, store bulbs in sealed plastic bags or leave them baking in direct sunshine.

Pest-proofing should also be a consideration. I once made the mistake of storing several hundred tulip bulbs in a cardboard box in a garden shed in Wales, only to return and find the local mice had enjoyed a weekend-long feast.

So, learn from me, find a cool spot that is ventilated, using solid trays or baskets that are kept off the ground. This approach will save you a lot of heartbreak.

Here are seven high-impact bulbs to order in August.

1. Hyacinth 'Purple Sensation'

I’ve grown many hyacinth varieties over my career. Years ago, when working in South Wales, we lined the path to the kitchen garden with rows of ‘City of Bradford’ hyacinths. Not only did these lilac-blue flowers look impressive, but the scent in the veg beds was unmatched.

‘Purple Sensation’ is another popular variety that I return to. The color is that perfect royal purple, and the scent, as with all hyacinths, is an ideal late winter accompaniment.

Order 'Purple Sensation' hyacinth bulbs from Burpee now, while stocks last.

I would usually plant hyacinths anytime in October or November, but don't worry too much about sticking rigidly to this time frame. So long as the bulbs are firm and they are in the ground by the end of December, you should be fine.

2. Pheasant’s Eye daffodil

If you are looking for one of the best bulbs for naturalizing in a lawn or meadow, the pheasant's eye daffodil, or Narcissus poeticus, is a good choice.

Pheasant’s Eye daffodil bulbs are available to order from Nature Hills.

This narcissus has simple, clean white flowers with tiny red eyes that look impressive when planted in drifts across a backyard.

Plant them anytime from September, aiming to get the bulbs as deep into the ground as possible (but aiming for at least four inches).

I’ve always liked pairing them with dark snakeshead fritillaries for a meadow-like mix that combines dark purple and ivory white pops.

3. Tulip 'Orange Emperor'

There’s nothing shy about ‘Orange Emperor.’ While there are many different tulip types and colors, this simple and impactful orange option seemingly glows against fresh green spring foliage, which is why I have returned to use it again and again.

They flower in mid-spring and go particularly well with darker purples like ‘Queen of Night’ for contrast.

You can plant them anytime from September through January, but just be sure to learn how to store tulip bulbs correctly, ideally in a dark, well-ventilated room that is pest-free.

'Orange Emperor' tulip bulbs can be ordered from the Garden State Bulb Store via Amazon.

4. Crown imperial fritillaries

While imperial fritillaries, or Fritillaria imperialis, are undoubtedly good-looking, they do have a downside. They are often labelled as some of the worst-smelling plants, although, with flowers like this, they get away with it.

Crown imperial fritillaries are available to order now via Burpee.

Those towering stems (that can reach upwards of three or four feet) are topped with flamboyant orange or yellow bells that look like something from a painting.

In terms of how to plant imperial fritillaries, I always recommend digging deep, about eight inches or more, and laying them on their side with a handful of grit underneath to prevent rot within the bulb.

It is also important to note that these bulbs are toxic, so when handling, use something like these long-sleeve gardening gloves, available from Amazon.

5. Daffodil 'Cheerfulness'

There are many different bulb planting trends every year, but I always come back to multi-headed daffodils. A little old-fashioned, a little traditional, but daffodil varieties like ‘Cheerfulness’ are, in my opinion, hard to beat, offering a winning combination of scent and floral beauty.

As you can see from the image here, each stem carries clusters of white-cream flowers with a heady fragrance (perfect for adding to vases indoors).

I have grown them in borders and pots, but I find containers far better, as you can then move them around, from the patio table to the steps by the front door, or wherever you might want to enjoy their scent.

They flower slightly later in spring, which makes them perfect for extending the daffodil season.

For a different multi-headed variety, try this white and peach 'Kapiti' daffodil, with bulbs available to order now from Burpee.

For an earlier-flowering container companion, try planting these copper colored 'Orange Monarch' crocus, with bulbs available from Nature Hills.

6. Tulip 'Black Parrot'

I adore fringed tulip varieties, and Tulipa ‘Black Parrot’ is one of the best. The deep maroon, near-black color adds a bit of drama to any spring display, working particularly well with coppers and pinks, some of which I have listed here.

'Black Parrot' also has good stem length, so it is a good option if you are looking to snip a few blooms to use for vases indoors.

You can plant tulips anytime between October and January, aiming for about six inches deep in borders or pots.

Tulipa ‘Black Parrot’ bulbs are available to order now via Nature Hills.

7. Tulip 'Princess Irene'

Another tulip variety that is no shrinking violet, ‘Princess Irene’ has copper-orange petals with dark, almost purple markings at the base of the flower, which look good both outside and in a vase.

This variety blooms from mid to late spring, so it is a good option for containers that you might want to erupt in a joyful and colorful display for the month of May.

But, as with all of these varieties, popular tulips tend to sell out fast, so make sure to add this to your list of bulbs to order in August.

Tulip 'Princess Irene' bulbs are available now via Burpee.

If you haven’t guessed already, I love rich tones and maximalist themes in the spring garden. All those Venetian colors of purples, oranges and burnished reds.

Whatever your preferences, be bold and play with different colors and shapes. Just don’t wait too long... the best varieties sell out fast.

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Muscari, also known as grape hyacinths, are beautiful springtime flowers that hail from Europe and Asia. These bulbs produce clusters of delicate, bell-shaped blooms in shades of indigo blue, white, pink, lavender, or sometimes yellow, ideal for creating a stunning seasonal display in any garden.

Known for their resilience and low-maintenance nature, muscari are the perfect choice for gardeners seeking vibrant color from spring bulbs year after year without a lot of fuss.

In this guide, our experts share the growing habits and care guide to equip you with all the knowledge to keep this plant thriving.

Growing habits of muscari plants

Hardiness zones: They thrive in climates in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8.

Size at maturity: 'Fully grown muscari plants typically reach a height of six to nine inches and a width of three to six inches and produce dense clusters of small, bell-shaped flowers,' says Nikki Bruner, the plant expert at Perfect Plants Nursery.

Growing habits: 'Muscari naturalize easily and will form clumps on their own over time,' explains Tammy Sons, horticulturist and founder and CEO of TN Nursery. 'This makes them suitable for rock gardens, borders, or even containers if you'd like to grow them in more closed quarters.'

Blooming: 'One of the best things about muscari is its perennial nature; plant it once, and it will return year after year, quietly multiplying without becoming invasive,' says Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist at Flower Bulb.

The blooming times of this plant vary depending on the region, with flowers emerging from early March to late April, and blooming earlier in warmer climates. The flowers typically last for three to four weeks.

Muscari require a cold winter period to bloom, so unusually warm winters can disrupt their flowering cycle the following spring. When grown in their ideal hardiness zones, they don’t need extra winter care, however, if winter temperatures rise unusually high or fluctuate significantly, the plants may struggle to bloom properly.

Foliage: Grass-like leaves appear in late summer or early fall and should be left in place until spring. The foliage provides essential nutrients for the bulbs to support healthy growth and blooming.

Self-seeding: Muscari have a self-seeding habit that can lead to uncontrolled spreading, especially when planted near other crops. To manage their growth, they are often planted in containers, which help prevent them from overtaking nearby plants.

The ideal growing conditions for muscari

Soil: 'Muscari are quite adaptable and can thrive in various types of soil, but they prefer moist, well-drained soil and can thrive in sandy blends,' says Nikki Bruner. 'Ensure that the soil is well-draining to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.' And while they are adaptable to various pH levels, they grow best in neutral to slightly acidic soil.

Planting: 'Plant these bulbs in the fall, three to four inches deep in well-drained soil,' advises Tammy Sons.

'For an even more dramatic spring display, consider planting three bulbs per hole,' recommends Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'They’ll create a lush, robust cluster of blooms.'

Light: These plants flourish in full sun but can also tolerate partial shade. Plant them in the fall in a spot that gets plenty of spring sunlight, as areas shaded during the summer may be sunnier in early spring before nearby trees fully leaf out.

Watering: Water muscari when the soil starts to dry, but be careful not to overwater, as this can lead to bulb rot. In the spring, they appreciate consistent moisture but need the soil to dry out slightly as the season progresses. Typically, watering once a week is sufficient, depending on rainfall.

Fertilizing: Muscari are generally low-maintenance and typically don’t require fertilization. However, Tammy Sons advises, 'If you choose to fertilize muscari, it should be done sparingly, or not at all.' That said, they can benefit from a light annual application of bone meal in the fall. Use about a quarter cup per 100 square feet of soil to encourage healthy growth and vibrant blooms.

Pruning: Allow the grass-like foliage to remain through the fall and winter to nourish the bulbs for spring blooms. Once the leaves start to yellow in the summer, you can trim them back if you prefer a tidier look, though this is more of an aesthetic choice than a necessity.

Alternatively, Tammy Sons suggests letting the foliage die back naturally, which is a low-maintenance option that supports the plant's natural growth cycle. To encourage more flowers the following year, remove green seed pods after the plant finishes flowering in spring.

FAQs

What methods can you use to propagate a muscari?

Muscari can be propagated through seeds or by dividing the bulbs. Although this plant spreads naturally and often doesn’t require intentional propagation, propagation is useful for intentionally creating new plants in other areas or filling out a garden bed.

As plant expert Nikki Bruner suggests, 'Once the flowers have finished blooming, you can deadhead the spent blossoms to promote future growth.'

If you want to propagate muscari from seeds, you’ll need to collect them from the pods once the flowers have finished blooming. Keep in mind, though, that this is a slow process – it can take several years for the plants to start flowering. Because of this, most people don’t use seeds as their go-to method. If you do decide to try it, spring is the best time to sow them for the best results.

Most gardeners prefer propagating muscari through division because it’s a faster and more reliable method. Simply dig up the bulbs, separate them, and replant them wherever you want to grow new plants. The best time to do this is in the fall when the plants are dormant.

Which pests usually target muscari?

Muscari are pretty tough plants, but they can occasionally attract pests like aphids and spider mites. Thankfully, these pests rarely become a big problem. If you do spot them, a strong spray of water from a garden hose is often enough to knock them off and keep your plants healthy.

The bigger concern, however, is a yellow mosaic virus, which can show up as a green pattern on the leaves, stunted growth, or shorter flower stalks. This virus is usually spread by spider mites that infect the bulbs, so it’s important to deal with any mites as soon as you notice their presence. Unfortunately, once a bulb is infected with yellow mosaic, it’s unlikely to survive, so you should remove and destroy any affected plants immediately to prevent the virus from spreading.

Remember, that since grape hyacinth tends to spread quickly, it might outgrow its pot during the growing season. To give your muscari plenty of room to grow, either move the plant to a larger container, or, as Tammy Sons recommends, take the cluster of bulbs, gently separate them, and replant them in fresh soil using new containers.

Garden wildlife is a joy many gardeners welcome. From birds and pollinators to nocturnal animals, it can be amazing to watch your outdoor space become a wildlife haven. However, there are also some challenges that come with welcoming these beautiful creatures into your yard, like learning how to stop foxes digging up bulbs.

Throughout the majority of North America, you can spot foxes wandering into gardens. This is especially true if you have a wildlife garden where you might see foxes at dawn and dusk - the times these animals are most typically active. While they are stunning creatures to spot, foxes can also cause chaos among your planting. 'When they are having difficulty finding prey, they can resort to going after bulbs,' says Jeremiah Woodward, wildlife specialist at Fox Pest Control.

This means you might have to stop foxes digging up bulbs more so in the seasons when their prey is scarce. Luckily, there are a few things you can do to stop these winter backyard pests ruining your spring planting.

5 ways to stop foxes digging up bulbs

'Some of the bulbs foxes may go for include tulips, crocuses, daffodils, and lilies,' says Jeremiah. 'A lot of these bulbs can contain nutrients for them, but some do contain other toxins that the foxes would not like. Unfortunately, they could still dig them up out of curiosity,' he explains.

If foxes are common in your local area and you're keen to protect your spring garden, then it might be wise to put some of these precautions in place to stop foxes digging up bulbs:

1. Create a mesh barrier

If you've taken the time to incorporate the best bulb planting trends while getting your bulbs in the ground this fall, you'll be keen to protect them from any pests. A simple solution is using some mesh:

'Use wire mesh as a barrier over top of the planted area. The foxes won't be able to dig through it,' explains Jeremiah.

You can use this wire mesh from Amazon to create a barrier over where your bulbs are planted. Make sure to use a couple of layers to ensure it is thick enough to protect from foxes chewing through. This is also an effective way to stop squirrels digging up bulbs.

Don't forget to then remove the mesh as part of your spring gardening checklist, once the first shoots of your bulbs start to appear.

2. Put a layer of gravel over your bulbs

Working in a similar manner to mesh, you can protect your newly planted bulbs with gravel or stones that will be hard for foxes to dig through.

'A layer of gravel or sharp edge stones on the surface can also deter foxes from digging up the area,' Jeremiah explains.

There are lots of ways to landscape with gravel to make this look attractive, too. For example, you can use this pea gravel from Amazon to top off your container garden plants.

This will also add some extra insulation to protect plants from frost and help them get through the harshest season before growing shoots and flowering in spring.

3. Put up a tall fence

This method will not only stop foxes digging up bulbs, it will also help get rid of foxes in your yard altogether. Tall structures like fences make it hard for these animals to enter your yard.

'Put up a fence around your garden that’s too high for them to vault over,' explains Meg Pearson, pest control expert at Critter Control. 'Be sure the fence also extends underground to prevent foxes from burrowing under the fence and accessing the garden from below,' she adds.

There are lots of garden fence ideas you can recreate with height to stop foxes coming into your yard. Landscaping with hedges can also work to some extent, but be aware foxes can burrow underneath, as Meg notes.

4. Use motion-activated sprinklers

Using motion-censored devices is a popular way many keep pests that can destroy plants away from their yard. Sprinklers are an effective choice for foxes.

'These devices can be purchased online and all you need is some batteries and hook up the device to a hose,' says Jeremiah. 'When it detects motion in the area you have it set up in, it will turn on the sprinkler and scare away foxes. This motion activated sprinkler can work on all sorts of wildlife,' he explains.

When trying to stop foxes digging up bulbs, make sure to position your sprinkler somewhere it will stop foxes in their tracks before getting to your planted bulbs. This motion-activated sprinkler on Amazon works well.

'There are also other motion activated, ultrasonic devices (from Amazon) that play a very high-pitched ear-piercing sound to scare pests away,' Jeremiah adds.

5. Use fox-repellent plants and sprays

Like many animals and insects, there are some pest-repellent plants that keep foxes at bay. In particular, they struggle to be around plants that give off strong aromas or have prickly foliage.

Some fox-repellent plants you could plant around your bulbs include holly and rose bushes, or aromatic herbs.

To take it a step further, experts say to make your own fox-repellent spray: 'Chili pepper, garlic, and white vinegar give off strong smells foxes dislike,' explains Jeremiah. Boil these ingredients in water and place them in a spray bottle (from Walmart) before applying around your planted bulbs.

'With all deterrents and repellents, it is important to move devices around and rotate the types of repellents you use,' says Jeremiah. 'Foxes will get used to some of it and if not rotated properly,' he advises.

FAQs

What time of year are foxes most active?

Foxes tend to be active throughout the year. You're more likely to spot young fox cubs in late spring and early summer where they may cause damage to garden plants. While not strictly nocturnal creatures, foxes are most active at dawn and dusk.

'Foxes are cunning animals; if they want to enter your yard or garden, they will likely try as many tactics as they can to gain access to it,' says Meg. 'If you truly want your fox problem handled, the best thing you can do is to have the situation handled by a trained wildlife removal professional who can assess your specific fox issue,' she adds. Nevertheless, these methods will put precautions in place to stop foxes digging up bulbs.

Just remember choosing to not protect your bulbs is only one of the bulb planting mistakes to avoid - there are plenty of other things to also get right for a successful bulb showcase.

Canna bulbs, or rhizomes, grow into stunning canna lilies, blooming in shades of bold oranges, reds, pinks and yellows. The vibrant sunset color palette of these perennial flowers show their heads from mid-summer up until the first frost, adding a flare of tropical energy to your yard for months on end.

However, as the winter season sets in, canna lilies won't feel quite so vivacious. In fact, if the temperatures drop too low and you haven't overwintered your canna bulbs, they may not survive to see your flower beds again.

You can leave canna lily bulbs in the ground, but only under certain conditions and within specific plant hardiness zones. Here, plant experts break down the specifics to ensure your cannas continue to thrive.

Can I leave canna bulbs in the ground over winter?

Since canna lilies are perfect for tropical garden ideas and typically thrive in warm conditions, the winter can be a struggle. If you live in an area which has relatively mild winters, the bulbs are capable of surviving in the ground in a somewhat dormant state. However, this is something that will need to be looked into prior to planting as in many parts of the world the bulbs won't survive.

Ofra Gaito, CEO of Verdant Lyfe plant shop, says, 'Canna bulbs shouldn’t stay in the ground in most places during winter, especially if it gets cold enough to freeze. They are not frost-tolerant, so if you live in a region where the winter temperatures dip below freezing, it’s generally a good idea to dig up the canna bulbs in the fall to prevent them from being damaged by cold weather.'

Leaving canna bulbs in the ground when it's too cold outside can lead to the bulbs freezing or beginning to rot, so be sure to add lifting them from the ground (if necessary) to your fall gardening checklist. Both of these things will result in the canna bulbs no longer being viable to grow.

What temperatures can canna bulbs withstand?

Andrew Bunting, vice president of horticulture at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, says, 'Canna rhizomes will remain hardy in the garden until temperatures get down to approximately 15 degrees F. To aid in them overwintering, you can add a pile of mulch to cover the canna rhizomes for the winter, though once temperatures get too low the rhizome will freeze which can result in irreparable damage.'

Alexandra Moreno, a landscaping designer and tropical plant expert at Atlanta Palms, adds, 'Among tropical flowering plants, cannas are among the most cold-hardy species, with yellow flowering varieties being the absolute toughest and cold-hardiest.

'If you're in a US hardiness zone lower than 7, it is recommended to dig up the rhizomes and store them until the weather warms up again.'

If you're unsure what the temperature is in your yard, we recommend looking into purchasing an outdoor thermometer like the MUMTOP thermometer and rain gauge from Amazon. Combine this with a plant meter, also from Amazon, which will tell you the moisture of your plant's soil, its humidity level and more, and you'll be as in-the-know as possible about your plants' environment.

Once canna lilies reach the end of their blooming cycle, they can benefit from a good trim to stay healthy. Learning how to prune canna lilies is simple, but also the key to keeping them alive for years to come.

As a full time working mom whose life revolves around gardening, plants and nature, I need my house to be styled at Christmas with the most elegant of festive foliage and plants. It's a non-negotiable.

I am always on the hunt for easy styling ideas and Christmas plant hacks. And I've just found one I need to share: waxed amaryllis bulbs. Why are they so good? They do not require any watering or soil to grow and bloom, simply the right light and temperature conditions. Amaryllis plants are simple to grow even when potted, but these bulbs are completely fuss free and so easy even a total plant novice would have success with them.

They are also perfect for creating seasonal, living Christmas wreaths for inside the home, and we have included a step-by-step guide to making one a bit further down.

How do waxed amaryllis bulbs work?

When a bulb is surrounded by wax, all the moisture, humidity and nutrients are held tightly within the bulb, allowing the plant to grow and flower as it would if potted up in soil.

The bulbs are so large and can store all the energy they need when coated in wax to produce multiple flowers for the holiday season. The colors of the wax are also highly decorative, my favourite being the elegant wax amaryllis bulb with white flowers from Amazon, because I love the green wax shade. All the bulbs also come with small metal stands, making it super easy to position them in a display.

They would work arranged in a cluster with moss and pine foliage to create an ever-changing festive tablescape, or can even be used in a living Christmas wreath.

As an added bonus, you can plant waxed amaryllis bulbs in the ground by simply peeling away the wax. They can be planted outdoors in the spring after the last frost. Be sure to plant them neck deep, with about one third of the bulb above soil level and about 12-15 inches apart.

How to make an amaryllis wreath using waxed bulbs

Tricia Hunt, plant expert and owner of Millstone Nursery, based in Germantown, Tennessee, has given us her expert insight for creating your own Christmas wreath using waxed amaryllis bulbs.

'For this project, I started with a simple grapevine wreath and before adding any other decorations I secured the waxed amaryllis bulbs at the base and neck of the stalk to the wreath using florist wire,' says Tricia. Floristry paddle wire from Amazon is ideal for this job.

'Once they are placed, the base foliage is up to you. I had fresh pine, dried lotus pods, a few ornaments and incense cedar laying around, but any real or dried picks will work just fine. I placed the fan tail willow in the back for a vertical element as well as an anchoring structure for the blooms as they grow. This is a great project for odds and ends of items you may already have but not in large quantities.'

'The wreath doesn’t need a lot of attention,' says Tricia. 'The waxed amaryllis does not need water and does well inside with a little light. Typically, it takes about four to six weeks for the amaryllis to bloom, so you must do a little planning ahead. If you choose to use fresh greenery, the stems will last longer if they are not near an air vent that may dry them out. Any berries would work for the picks or even as the wreath itself.

'Faux berries would probably be the better choice for a wreath in this instance, just because the plant takes weeks to bloom, and the berries might dry out before the flowers come,' advises Tricia.

If you feel inspired to create your own Christmas wreath or decorations this year, you will love our guide to the best scented foliage for Christmas decorations, to ensure you home smells fresh and festive for the whole holiday season.

If there is any rule in my home, it is that the 'big lights' (otherwise known as the ceiling lights) are never turned on. I prioritize making my home feel cozy, and using lots of lamps to layer lighting is a massive part of that.

However, while having lots of lamps with warm white bulbs in them is great for creating a relaxing ambiance, they are not all that practical if I need to read something in bed or on the sofa, clean something up, focus while working on a fiddly task, or find something. That is where the Philips Hue Smart Bulbs, available on Amazon (and currently discounted for Black Friday) came into my life.

These pricey bulbs might seem like overkill to anyone who hasn't yet taken the full plunge into smart home must-haves yet, but they are by far the best investment I have ever made for my home, and me, increasing security and reducing over-stimulation.

Why I love the Philips Hue Bulbs

I first tried out the Philips Hue bulbs two years ago as a housewarming gift. It was a novelty, something that I initially thought might be a bit of fun for a few months and then I would treat them like any other lighting ideas. Boy, was I wrong.

Two years later I have bought even more, integrating them into almost every room of my house. I am even looking at picking up more in the Black Friday sales – and here's why it's worth parting with my hard-earned cash to upgrade my light bulbs.

1. They prevent me feeling overstimulated

I am very easily overstimulated by light and sound, especially when I am trying to relax or unwind for the evening. The Philips Hue bulbs makes it so that I have complete control over my environment, no matter if I am setting down to read before going to sleep, or I am cuddling up on the sofa to enjoy the latest episodes of my favorite TV shows. They are a savior for making a living room cozy with lighting.

The app has a dedicated setting specifically for relaxing, turning the bulbs to a warm orange glow that bathes my living room in a soothing light that doesn't overstimulate me when I am trying to chill out. I can even turn the brightness down further if I want to really immerse myself in my show without sitting in complete darkness.

They even help me to sleep better, as I can turn them down from the reading setting to relax or even nightlight as I wind down for bed and finish off my evening routine. The 'Go to Sleep' setting gradually dims the light for me, mimicking a sunset to help me drift off naturally after a day of staring at screens.

I am yet to try it as my partner and I wake up at different times, but I could even use the 'wake up with light' setting to gently pull me from sleep (like using the best sunrise alarm clocks) rather than using a blaring alarm clock. They are a great way to set up a bedroom to beat morning grogginess.

When I need to focus on a task such as home organizing, cleaning, or I need to find something, I can quickly turn the lights up to bright, clear daylight before switching them right back to cozy mode again.

2. They are remote controlled

There are several benefits of smart lighting, but controlling the lights from my phone or one of the many Hue remotes I have in my home is a massive draw. After all, is there anything worse than getting all cozy in bed before realizing you have to get up to turn off the light? Or fumbling with the lamp cable to find the switch?

With the Hue bulbs, all I need is my phone (I have an iPhone, so I even have widgets on my lock screen that allow me to instantly control my lights without even opening the app). It's perfect for when I am settled on the sofa or in bed, or even when I am on my way home at night and I don't want to stumble around in the dark when I get in.

When setting up a smart home, I also popped some of the best Alexa speakers around my home (one in the kitchen, living room, and my home office). Of all the ways voice assistants can be used in your smart home, using them to control my lighting is one of my favorites.

Say I am working when it starts to get dark outside and I am mid-flow, all I need to do is ask Alexa to turn on my home office and it is bathed in cozy task lighting. The same goes for when I have guests visiting – it is a great way to impress them with lighting trends, and it is always a conversation starter.

I even set up a 'goodnight' routine through my Alexa app. With only two words (Alexa, goodnight) all of my living room lighting is switched off and my bedroom lighting comes on as I go upstairs.

3. They boost my home security

As someone who grew up in a military household with a healthy level of paranoia, home security has always been important for me. I don't own my home, so I can't install security cameras, alarm system, or make any changes to the doors, so I use my Philips lights to help dissuade any opportunists when I am not home and secure my home without a security system.

It might sound strange that a home lighting system is one of the best security measures for a house, but the Hue app offers a 'Mimic' setting that will turn lights on around my home at realistic intervals after dark to make it look like I am moving around my home, even when I am away.

My older relatives have been keen to point out to me that they used to do this with much simpler plug-in timers, such as the two-pack of mechanical outlet timers available on Amazon. Those however lack flexibility and turn on and off at the same time every night.

The Hue system varies the times and the lights used daily to mimic my regular routines. It's a far safer home security tip, in my opinion.

4. They make entertainment more immersive

As a household, we love all things digital media, especially gaming and TV shows. There is not a day that goes by where one of us is not on the PlayStation. As a result, constantly upgrading our entertainment center ideas is a top priority for us. While most people focus on the TV and sound systems, I am looking at lighting.

I have yet to take the plunge for this investment lighting piece, but it is certainly something I am eyeing up in the Black Friday sales this year.

When styling living room TV ideas, you can use the color ambiance Hue bulbs and TV strips to sync your lighting to your TV screen so your whole home is bathed in the same colors for a fully immersive experience. It is something every person who loves hosting should have in their homes.

5. They help save me energy

Being able to dim my lights and turn them off quickly means that I am actively cutting energy bills. While you could argue that the bulbs are more expensive than a standard light bulb, the savings will pay off in the long term and will reduce my overall energy consumption helping me to be more sustainable at home.

A study by Signify, the parent company of Philips Hue found that for the white ambiance lights, 'When dimming a bulb to 70% of its maximum brightness, it uses 51% less energy. When dimming a Philips Hue bulb even further, such as to 50% of its maximum brightness, it saves as much as 75% on energy consumption. By choosing to dim your Philips Hue bulbs, you can still enjoy functional and mood lighting, while reducing your energy consumption.'

Given that I very rarely have my bulbs turned all the way to the max , I am always saving energy at home.

Switching to these bulbs is by far one of the best DIY lighting ideas you can use to instantly elevate your home. Don't mistake them for any other light bulbs you can pick up at the hardware store, they are an investment piece that will instantly improve your quality of life.

While we might all be fans of tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, prized for bringing color and fragrance to the spring garden, there are a handful of bulbous plants that should be avoided.

Whether you grow in a small urban space or you have a large rural plot, invasive bulbs can prove problematic, out-competing native species and dominating beds and borders and quickly taking over your backyard.

As a former gardener, I have planted tens of thousands of bulbs over my professional career in private and public gardens across the UK and Italy. While the list of invasive bulbs to steer clear of is small, it is important to know what bulbs to never plant in pots and borders, and what to grow instead. Here, I share all I have learned about invasive bulb species to help you make the right choices for your garden.

5 invasive bulbs to never plant

Bulb planting typically takes place during fall and winter, and while this will depend on where you live and your US hardiness zone, usually gardeners look to get bulbs in the ground during October, November and December. There are so many wonderful and vibrant bulbs to consider, but beware, there are some invasive plants to avoid. So, avoid making any bulb planting mistakes this year and follow my guide below.

1. Star of Bethlehem

The Star of Bethlehem, or Ornithogalum umbellatum, is an impressive spring bulb with striking white blooms that tend to carpet wooded areas. I have grown this species in the UK and Italy where it has performed well alongside other spring blooms without dominating.

However, in several US states, including Indiana, Kentucky, Maryland and Pennsylvania, the Star of Bethlehem is considered invasive, dominating meadows, prairies and woodland areas and displacing native plants.

Always check with your local government office to ascertain what is classified as invasive in your state, but for the most part in the US, this species should not be planted.

If you are keen on white flowers in your yard, instead consider some of the best snowdrops to grow. You can grow snowdrops from US hardiness zone 3, and remember to plant snowdrop bulbs before December so they put on a good display during winter and spring. Snowdrop bulbs are available from Amazon.

2. Siberian squill

Siberian squill, or Scilla siberica, may look dainty and delicate, but this bulbous plant can be vigorous. Native to Russia, the Caucasus and Turkey, Siberian squill is incredibly cold-hardy and can become invasive in cool and wet regions.

You can easily spot this plant for it produces vibrant blue flowers in spring. While they might look pretty, this plant has proven problematic across much of the Midwest and is considered invasive in Minnesota and Indiana. While it can be found in nurseries and plant shops, I would advise against planting these invasive bulbs, particularly in areas that are mild and have plenty of rainfall.

Instead, if you are looking for perennial bulbs that will naturalize and return year after year without taking over your yard, consider growing less vigorous Scilla varieties, such as glory of the snow.

Alternatively, why not try growing species tulips, such as Tulipa sylvestris, which has gained attention as part of bulb planting trends over the last few years.

Most, if not all, varieties of species tulips require sun and can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to zone 7. 'Species tulips are un-hybridized and smaller in size than most modern tulips,' says Vanessa Elms, bulb expert and owner of Old House Gardens in Michigan. 'In the right conditions, species tulips tend to be more perennial, and should return year after year.'

Tulipa sylvestris bulbs are available to order on Amazon.

3. Spanish Bluebells

The Spanish bluebell, Hyacinthoides hispanica, is considered invasive in the UK, Ireland and the US. While you might think that the lilac or blue flowers are attractive when seen carpeting a woodland or forest floor, this species should be considered a problem plant to avoid growing in any backyard.

Instead, why not consider growing other teal plants that are less vigorous, such as grape hyacinths? One of my favorite varieties is Muscari armeniacum 'Valerie Finnis', which can be grown in the ground or in pots from US hardiness zone 4 plus.

'Valerie Finnis' bulbs are available from Amazon.

4. Wild Garlic

Wild garlic, Allium ursinum, can form extensive, dense carpets in woodland beds and along forest floors. Producing a pleasing aroma, wild garlic is a pleasing sight in the UK during springtime, with many harvesting the foliage to flavor culinary creations.

However, wild garlic can be a nuisance, particularly in damp woodland conditions. It spreads quickly, forming a tight mat along the soil surface and thereby preventing any other perennial bulbs from establishing.

Wild garlic can be a nice addition if you have a large plot of land where you can let it grow freely, yet for smaller yards, I would caution against growing it. So, while it might seem enticing, leave wild garlic to grow in wooded, wild areas, and keep it out of your yard.

Instead, consider growing chives, available from Walmart, for fragrant aromatic herbs that will make for tasty additions to your sensory garden next year.

5. Lily of the valley

Lily of the valley are often thought of as some of the best ground cover plants, producing charming white flowers in the spring. While they are often sold as 'bulbs', lily of the valley is not in fact a true bulb. It is usually grown from pips, which are small offshoots of a rhizome.

While this is a popular woodland plant, in the right conditions, lily of the valley can quickly become invasive. 'I would always advise against growing the straight species of lily of the valley, Convallaria majalis, as it is known to be incredibly invasive in many regions of North America,' says Carolyn Walker, plant expert and owner of Carolyn's Shade Garden nursery. 'There are regions in Maine where it dominates and has killed off all the native plants.'

Instead, Carolyn suggests growing the pink variety, Convallaria majalis var. rosea, which is 'far less vigorous while retaining the classic lily of the valley blooms that are so popular with gardeners.'

FAQs

My yard is full of Spanish bluebells - what should I do?

If you have a Spanish bluebell problem, there are strategies you can use to eradicate them. However, patience and perseverance will be needed - getting rid of Spanish bluebells is certainly a challenge. When they are in leaf, during the spring, use a garden spade or fork to lift and remove the foliage, stem and bulbs.

Generally speaking, the bulbs will be in the top of 10-inches of the soil, but take your time to dig around and remove any that you find. While you will not catch every single bulb, you can repeat this process every year, and hopefully their numbers will reduce over time. Get rid of the bulbs in a green waste collection - do not add them to your compost heap.

There are so many bulbs to choose between when you are planning your spring garden displays. If you are anything like me, you can spend far too long gazing at lovely images of pretty bulbous plants online and in magazines. Whatever you decide on, always remember to plant what is suitable for your region, and avoid any species that are considered invasive in your region.

For more bulb inspiration, considering learning how to grow snakes head fritillaries, for a bulb that has detailed, checkerboard flower petals.

One of my favorite parts of decorating for Christmas is bringing the outdoors in by using some of the most beautiful festive florals and foliage. Forcing bulbs is a popular practice during the festive season, creating conversation-starter centerpieces and bringing the Christmas table to life.

Learning how to force bulbs is fairly easy. It consists of tricking popular bulbs to bloom out of season indoors. There are so many bulbs you can force, but some just give you an extra festive feeling with their shapely florals and vibrant hues.

Keen to incorporate this trend on your Christmas table this year, but not sure which flowers to opt for? Look no further - here, I've compiled the ultimate list of indoor bulbs to force for Christmas.

5 gorgeous indoor bulbs to force for Christmas

'To force bulbs to bloom outside their natural season, you'll need to recreate ideal conditions - the right temperature, soil moisture, and lighting. It's also essential to choose high-quality planting material. Ensure the bulbs are dry and free of spots or mold,' advises Julia Omelchenko, botany expert for the Plantum app.

You should also be aware some bulbs require a period of chilling for several weeks before planting to force, so it can require some forward planning. Nevertheless, no matter which of the best indoor bulbs to force for Christmas you choose, I promise having these florals in your home will bring joy to you and your guests.

1. Hyacinths

Charming, colorful and beautiful in clusters, hyacinths are a timeless choice for indoor bulb forcing. Generally speaking, hyacinth varieties are easy to grow, and they're just as easy to force in winter.

Hyacinths are best forced in water, experts note. 'Place the bulb in a forcing jar filled with water that comes to just below the bottom of the bulb so the roots can reach into it but the bulb doesn’t get wet and potentially rot,' explains Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

You can buy a bulb forcing jar from a range of retailers - like this bulb forcing jar from Walmart. As Julie notes, make sure not to let the bulb sit in water which could cause rot.

'Provide bright, indirect light once the plant begins growing. Before that, keep in medium light,' Julie advises.

However you decide to display your forced hyacinths, like in the jar with moss pictured above, you need to provide the same care as you would when growing hyacinth bulbs in containers. Make sure to not let the hyacinths dry out, otherwise their blooms may fade more quickly.

Explore the wide range of hyacinth bulbs on offer at Nature Hills.

2. Paperwhites

If you're a fan of the white Christmas tree trend and want to create your very own white Christmas at home, try forcing paperwhite narcissus. They're particularly loved for their sweet fragrance which makes them one of the best indoor plants to make a living room smell nice.

'This narcissus species doesn’t require chilling, making it an excellent option for beginners or those with limited time,' says Julia.

'You can plant the bulb in soil or place it in a shallow container filled with water and pebbles. For an added stylish touch, use a glass container with decorative stones or beads,' she suggests.

Knowing when to plant paperwhites is important if you want to grow paperwhites in a jar in time for Christmas. The good news is, these bulbs take just a few weeks to root and bloom.

'Maintain a temperature of 65°F while the paperwhite roots. At this stage, the plant doesn’t require light, but once the roots have formed, move the pot to a location with indirect light. Keep the temperature between 61 and 65°F and add water as it evaporates. Paperwhite shoots grow quickly, and you’ll likely see the first flowers in four to six weeks,' Julia explains.

3. Amaryllis

This is a classic choice of Christmas plant, for its deep red hue and variety of unique patterns. These bulbs also match the color of popular poinsettias and together can make an impactful display.

'The amaryllis is one of the most popular bulbous plants to force indoors for the holiday season. Its large, funnel-shaped flowers can grow up to 10 inches and come in a variety of hues, from soft whites to bright pinks and vivid reds,' Julia says.

You can either use the same water method as hyacinths to force these bulbs, or opt for forcing them in soil.

'Fill a pot with a loose, well-draining mix, which can consist of peat, perlite, and sand. Plant amaryllis bulbs with the pointed end up, ensuring only the bottom two-thirds are covered with soil, and gently tamp down the growing medium,' Julia explains.

When forcing bulbs in soil, make sure to use a pot with a drainage hole to avoid oversaturation and root rot which may impact the bulb's ability to bloom. These nursery pots with drainage holes from Amazon are a good choice.

'Place the pot in a warm location with a temperature of around 70°F. The amaryllis thrives in bright, filtered light,' Julia adds. 'With proper care, the bulb will develop a flower stalk followed by leaves. This process takes about six to eight weeks, so plan the planting accordingly to ensure the plant blooms by Christmas,' she adds.

4. Tulips

For a more unconventional option, but a stunning one nonetheless, try forcing tulips to incorporate in your festive displays this year. The joy of this springtime favorite is there are so many types of tulips in a wide range of colors and patterns, so you can really choose them to suit your interior theme over the winter period.

'Although tulips are traditionally associated with spring, they can also be forced to bloom in winter, offering a vibrant splash of color for the holiday season,' Julia says.

One thing to note, however, is you need a little bit of advance planning for forcing this bulb: 'Unlike some other bulbs, tulip bulbs need a chilling period of 12–16 weeks at 36-45°F,' Julia notes. This is part of the seed stratification (or bulb stratification) process that tricks the tulip bulbs into thinking they're in a dormant season and emerging into spring, when they bloom.

'Fill pots that have drainage holes with a well-draining growing medium, and plant tulip bulbs with their pointed ends up. Water the soil generously and place the pots in a cool, dark spot,' advises Julia. 'During this chilling period, keep the soil slightly moist, but avoid sogginess,' she adds.

After chilling, move your tulip bulbs somewhere brighter and warmer. 'Gradually increase the light exposure. This will encourage the tulips to grow, and the first flowers will appear in three to four weeks,' Julia says.

Explore the gorgeous tulip bulbs available at Nature Hills.

5. Snowdrops

This is one of my favorite choices of bulbs to force for Christmas, adding dainty charm to festive set-ups. There are so many types of snowdrops to choose from, but the best snowdrops to grow can all be forced indoors for Christmas.

Like tulips, snowdrop bulbs also need a chilling period. 'This can be done by putting them in the refrigerator for a period of several weeks,' notes Julie Bawden-Davis.

As a winter flower, you then need to move your snowdrop bulbs to somewhere that isn't too warm. 'Snowdrops can be forced in soil. They require cool conditions to grow and bloom, so put them in the coolest area of your house,' suggests Julie.

When planting snowdrop bulbs, make sure to once again have the pointed edge facing up. You can also extend the life of these flowers by planting snowdrops in the green in your yard after they finish blooming.

These snowdrop bulbs from Amazon are a good place to start if you're keen to force them.

FAQs

How do you stop forced bulbs flopping over?

Forced bulbs are popular floral decoration for the festive period. One issue you may encounter, however, is being able to keep the stem of your bulbs stay upright. Luckily, there are a couple of solutions to this issue.

'You can use a 4-6% alcohol solution to slow their growth and strengthen them. This won’t harm the flowers, so there’s no need to worry about affecting the blooms,' explains Julia Omelchenko, botany expert for the Plantum app. 'Replace regular water with this solution once the stalks reach two inches in height, but avoid higher concentrations that could damage the plant,' she advises.

Alternatively, you can use something like these plant supports from Walmart, or even use a houseplant trellis.

I would be delighted to see any one of these indoor bulbs to force for Christmas at festive gatherings this year. They're a simple way to enhance displays, but can also be used in other ways: 'Bulbous plants make excellent Christmas gifts,' Julia notes. These bulbs can also be paired with Christmas foliage to bring an enchanting feel to your home.

Planting bulbs is one of the easiest ways to fill your yard with color. Whether you are a fan of tulips or have a love of daffodils, bulbs are typically the first flowers to open in borders and pots, bridging the gap before summer annuals and perennials jump into action.

If you're wondering 'can you plant bulbs too deep', the short answer is, yes. One of the most common mistakes gardeners make is planting bulbs at the wrong depth, which can damage the bulb and lead to disappointment when blooms fail to emerge. Knowing how to plant bulbs is important, and while this is a simple process, there are key rules to follow.

So, if you want to find out how deep to plant bulbs without going too far into the soil, our guide has all the information you need. We explore why bulb planting depth matters and the techniques to follow to get your approach just right.

Can you plant bulbs too deep?

When thinking about how to plant bulbs, it is important to get the planting depth correct so the bulb has the best chance to succeed. While this might feel unnecessary or too scientific, planting at the wrong depth is a common bulb-planting mistake.

Taking the time to plant at the right depth is proven to have the best results. Too shallow, and your bulbs will be eaten by hungry squirrels or mice. Too deep, and they may rot, bloom too late or not at all.

How deep is too deep when planting bulbs?

Planting spring bulbs too deeply can damage the bulb and in some cases, stop them from flowering. The general rule is to plant bulbs at a depth of two to three times their size.

If you are planting tulip bulbs, for example, that typically measure one inch in diameter, you want to aim to get them around two to three inches deep in the ground. Another example is planting snowdrops, which typically have smaller bulbs when compared with tulips. If they measure around half an inch in diameter, then aim to get them around one to two inches deep in the ground.

If you plant bulbs too deep, this can mean that they either flower later in the season or do not flower at all. This is because the bulb has to expend a significant amount of energy simply to reach the surface. While most bulbs will be forgiving if you plant them slightly deeper than the general guidelines, avoid making any dramatic variations from the recommended rules. In addition, the further you dig, the wetter the soil will be, and planting a small bulb in saturated ground can have disastrous consequences and result in bulb rot.

Another example is planting daffodil bulbs that measure one inch in diameter. As mentioned above, it is best to plant them at a depth of two to three inches of their size. There is no need to plant them at a depth of seven or eight inches, and this will only damage the bulb. Save time and energy, both for yourself and the bulb, and stick to the recommended planting depth.

There are a handful of species that have different requirements, so it is always good to do your research on the recommended planting depth for specific bulbs. For example, imperial fritillaries are large bulbs, typically measuring three or four inches in size. In my experience, getting these as deep as possible in the ground, around 10 to 15 inches will ensure that these bulbs survive the winter months. In addition, snake's head fritillaries can be planted at a depth of five times the size of the bulb, which can help to keep these smaller bulbs safe and out of reach from problem pests.

Within reason, most bulbs will exhibit a degree of resilience and tolerate a range of planting depths. However, it is always best to do your homework and plant at a suitable depth for the species, thereby guaranteeing bulb health the following year.

Tools to help get the depth right

So, once you have a rough idea of how deep to plant your bulbs, having the right gardening tools can help to get the job done.

'When planting hyacinths, tulips or daffodils in my yard, I tend to use a bulb planter, also known as a bulb auger, with engraved measurements,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'These are readily available and in my experience, really make the job that much easier.' Bulb augers are available from Amazon.

'Simply measure the planting hole as you work to make sure you have your levels right,' Rachel says. 'While it doesn't need to be an exact science, having this measurement allows you to plant with confidence that you are sticking, approximately, to the recommended depth.'

Many hori hori knives also have engraved measurements that can be handy to refer to when digging smaller holes for miniature bulbs. Hori hori knives are available from Amazon.

FAQs

How deep should I plant bulbs in pots?

Planting bulbs in pots is slightly different when compared to planting in the ground, as you have far less space. While you must be careful when spacing bulbs in pots, you also want to stick to the general depth rules as set out here, usually planting tulip, daffodil and hyacinth bulbs at a depth of two to three times their size. Be sure to use a larger pot for larger bulbs, and protect your pots using chicken wire or holly foliage to deter pests.

While we have answered the question: can you plant bulbs too deep, you must also be careful not to plant bulbs too shallow. If you plant bulbs too close to the surface, squirrels, mice and deer can easily ruin your hard work.

What's more, cold weather can also damage bulbs planted too close to the surface. Getting the balance just right is, therefore, crucial. For more bulb planting advice, see our guide on deer-resistant spring bulbs.

Timing is everything when growing snowdrops. Planting bulbs too late in the year, as winter begins to take hold, will result in failed flowering and disappointment, so getting them in the ground promptly is important. As a former professional gardener, I have grown snowdrops in several private gardens across the UK, and know that planting them at the right time is crucial.

Generally speaking, fall is the time to plant bulbs, and whether you intend to grow snowdrops, tulips or daffodils, it is a good idea to get planting in October and November, as the temperature drops but before the ground is overly wet or frozen. So you still have a couple of weeks to get some in the ground.

Here, I discuss the ideal time to plant snowdrop bulbs in your yard for the best chances of success, helping you fill your borders and pots with striking white blooms during the coldest time of the year.

When to plant snowdrop bulbs

When considering planting snowdrops, remember that these are tough, snow-resilient flowers. While they might look delicate, snowdrops can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 and above, tolerating frozen winters and often blooming when the ground is frozen.

When is the ideal time to plant snowdrop bulbs

Typically blooming between January and March, snowdrops are a sign that spring will soon be on its way. Planting these miniature bulbs requires careful timing to get the best results, and the ideal planting window usually falls somewhere between August and November. It is still perfectly fine to plant as late as November, but in my experience, the sooner the better.

Planting them by November will ensure that your bulbs have enough time to shoot and establish roots before the ground freezes, making them better prepared to produce healthy foliage and flowers in the New Year.

When planting, remember that these are bulbs for shade or part-shade, and it is also important to choose a spot that has well-draining soil. Avoid planting bulbs in waterlogged or overly damp soil, as they can rot if sitting in saturated soil for too long.

In terms of how deep to plant bulbs, bury your snowdrops at least two to three inches deep. Position your bulb with the pointed end facing upwards. Snowdrops look best when planted in natural drifts, so consider placing 10 or 15 bulbs in clumps, one to two feet apart in your borders.

What if I miss the snowdrop bulb planting window?

If you miss this window, I would not advise planting snowdrops in December. Planting bulbs too late in the winter is a common bulb planting mistake to avoid and might end in disappointment when no snowdrops appear. Instead, consider planting snowdrops 'in the green'.

You can buy bulbs already shooting in a garden center, which might make a nice addition to a pot display. Be careful when planting them, however, as snowdrop bulbs do not respond well when being moved at this time of year.

Alternatively, you can wait until after the flowering window and plant snowdrops 'in the green', typically doing so in February, March or April. Planting 'in the green' involves transplanting live plants with foliage intact. You want to do this before the weather warms up, ideally well before May. Also remember that the longer your bulbs are out of the ground, the lower the chances of survival, so planting them as soon as possible is always preferable.

Much the same as planting bulbs in the fall, dig individual holes at a depth of two to three inches, positioning each clump at the same depth as it would have been before it was lifted - you do not want the green stems buried too deeply. You will often be able to identify where the surface level was by a clear color change on the stem.

Once planted, water lightly to settle the soil and give your new snowdrops a boost. Keep an eye on them as they might dry out as the weather warms up. While you won't get any flowers from these frost-hardy plants this year, planting 'in the green' in spring will produce excellent results and robust growth the following winter.

FAQs

Do snowdrops naturalize when planted in borders?

Yes, snowdrops will naturalize and spread across your garden. After a few years in one position, it is a good idea to lift and divide congested clumps, encouraging them to colonize different areas of the yard. This is best done after flowering in March or April.

What unusual variety of snowdrop would you recommend?

There are 20 species of snowdrops that, all native to Europe and Asia. The most popular is the common snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis, but there are many other options available, with more than 2,500 cultivars bred over the centuries. Galanthus ‘Blonde Inge’ was always one of my favorites, with a yellow-green coloration adorning the white hanging petals.

While there are many bulb planting trends that come and go each year, snowdrops are a garden stalwart that, to me, are a timeless addition to any space. Try planting them alongside cyclamen and croci, for pops of color early in the year alongside these dainty, white flowers.

Knowing how far apart to space bulbs in a pot will ensure that your spring blooms thrive, giving your planting schemes an edge and creating the best possible display.

Bulbs grow well in pots, and in the fall we tend to plant snowdrops, daffodils, tulips, fritillaries and crocus, which all produce brilliant and vibrant displays. In the spring, you can plant canna lilies and agapanthus, while in early summer, it is time to plant autumn-blooming crocus, nerines and cyclamen. Whatever, you choose to grow, knowing how to space the bulbs is important.

Planting bulbs too close together or too far apart is one of the most common bulb-planting mistakes, but easy to avoid when you know what to do. Here, our guide has all the information you need to succeed.

Placing your bulbs the right distance apart in pots helps avoid overcrowding, which can diminish growth and flowering. It also prevents under-planting, which makes your containers look sparse and threadbare. It also gives bulbs space to mature, grow and develop offsets that can be detached and planted independently to increase your plant stocks. Here, we explain the right planting distance for different bulb sizes.

1. Small bulbs

Some of the best spring bulbs to plant in the fall are the smallest varieties such as crocus, Iris cristata, Muscari and early-flowering glory of the snow, which look impressive when grown in a pot.

The same applies to species tulips, which are smaller and hardier than bedding tulips, and small varieties of alliums.

For the best results space them roughly 2-3 inches apart, though you can grow them closer together in smaller containers and still get a 'wow' display.

Crocus bulbs are available from Walmart.

2. Medium sized bulbs

Medium-sized bulbs such as the myriad varieties of standard-sized tulips and narcissus (daffodils) should be planted 3-4 inches apart, although again, they can be closer together in containers.

Tulip and daffodil bulbs often produce bulblets, or offsets, as they mature, and after a few years may need digging up and splitting to avoid overcrowding.

The offsets can be planted independently to create their own display.

Tulip bulbs are available from Walmart.

3. Large bulbs

Larger bulbs such as lilies, big alliums such as 'Globemaster', hyacinths and fall-flowering nerines need a bit more breathing space, so give them around 4-6 inches between each other.

Nerines, which are planted in early to mid-summer, should have their 'nose' poking just above the top of the potting soil.

As with all bulbs, planting in odd numbers helps to create a more natural and relaxed display, as you have less of a tendency to plant in identically-sized, regimented rows.

4. Indoor hyacinths

Planting hyacinth bulbs indoors in the fall is a wonderful way of adding spectacular scent and color to the home in the new year. Hyacinth bulbs are available from Walmart.

These are bulbs that have been ‘forced’, put through an artificial spell of cold so they ‘think’ they have been through winter and start to shoot and bloom several weeks earlier than those in the garden.

Indoor hyacinths and other forced bulbs are planted in bowls of bulb fiber or multipurpose potting soil and should be set close together, but not touching.

When I plant forced hyacinths I usually leave a half-inch gap between each bulb.

I then cover most of the bulbs with bulb fiber, so just the tips are poking out, lightly dampen the fiber, and place the pot in a dark drawer or cupboard for a few weeks, checking regularly and re-wetting the compost if needed.

When the bulbs start to grow, bring them into the light and set them somewhere cool and bright. The shoots will start yellow but soon turn a healthy green.

5. Common potted bulb problems

Planting bulbs in pots can have just the same problems as planting in the soil, but knowing how to deal with them will help keep your bulbs safe.

One of the main enemies of bulb planting is squirrels, which love to dig up and eat our precious bulbs, often as soon as they have been planted.

There are several ways of stopping squirrels from finding and digging up bulbs, and one of the easiest things to do is to keep your bulbs in a bucket as you plant, so their scent stays off the ground.

Another common problem is when bulbs produce plenty of leaves but fail to flower. This 'blindness' usually happens because they haven’t been planted deeply enough, are in a spot with poor soil, or aren’t getting enough sun.

The best solution is to dig them up once the leaves have died back and replant them at the correct depth in fresh potting soil with added fertilizer.

When the bulbs start to appear next year, move their container to a sunny, sheltered spot for the best results.

FAQs

What potting soil should I use?

Your bulbs will thrive in a good multipurpose potting soil with an added granular fertilizer such as this Burpee Natural Purpose Granular Organic Food from Amazon.

Bulbs are prone to rotting in wet conditions so add some grit or perlite to open up the potting mix and improve drainage, and always raise your pots off the ground so excess water can run away. These heavy-duty pot elevators on Amazon are a great way of getting rid of surplus moisture and keeping your bulbs safe.

Should I feed my bulbs in pots?

Once the flower buds form, feed weekly with high-potassium tomato fertilizer to encourage healthy blooms. After flowering, continue to feed with a general-purpose fertilizer as the leaves die back, as this will help strengthen and nourish the bulbs for next year’s display.

My bulbs are increasing, what should I do?

This is good news because it means the plants are healthy and maturing. If the clumps get too large or aren’t flowering as well as they used to, carefully dig them up when they have finished flowering and the leaves have shriveled back.

Gently separate the bulbs and remove young bulblets from the parent bulb, before replanting the bulbs in pots or smaller groups around your garden. Discard any that look rotten, are soft, or have signs of pest attacks.

Always deadhead your potted bulbs as the flowers fade and when they have finished blooming let the leaves die back naturally, as this will feed the bulbs and encourage them to perform well next year too.

They will look scruffy as they die back so move your pots out of the way. Never cut off or knot the leaves as they wither, as this will prevent them from producing energy that is returned to the bulb.

While we might all aspire to create prolific planters full of flowering bulbs in the springtime, choosing the wrong bulb species for your container displays can cause more harm than good.

When selecting bulbs for pots, it's important to consider which species to avoid, whether for their size or ability to spread. For example, planting bulbs that will grow to four or five feet tall can easily result in small pots becoming top-heavy. In addition, growing vigorous, spreading or invasive bulbs that can escape from containers into the yard will have long-term consequences, with borders full of unwanted bulbs that are hard to eliminate.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted thousands of bulbs over my career in both the UK and Italy. While the list of bulbs to avoid is small when compared to the list of what can be grown, doing your research before ordering and planting will prevent problems further down the road. Here, I share all I know about bulb planting mistakes and species to keep out of your yard.

5 bulbs to never plant in pots

Wherever you live and whatever your US hardiness zone, fall and winter are typically the time to plan and plant spring flowering bulbs. While those warm May and June days might seem far away, spending a small amount of time planting bulbs now will pay off when your yard is full of colorful and fragrant bulb displays next year. However, not all bulbs should be grown in pots. The following list details those bulbs to never plant in pots, along with some recommendations for what you should grow.

1. Camassia

Camassia are high-impact bulbs best planted on mass to create a sea of tall, pyramidal-like blooms that emerge in late spring. I have grown and cared for meadows of naturalized camassia in South Wales, and while these flowering bulbs are both attractive and popular with pollinators, anyone who knows how to grow camassia will tell you that these bulbs need space to spread.

Native to the mountains of the Pacific Northwest, camassia is best suited to moist, open sites and does not respond well to being lifted or disturbed. In addition, it is best to leave the straggly foliage to turn yellow before cutting back to ensure that the bulb captures as much energy as possible before entering its dormant stage. This can be a problem when growing camassia in container displays, as you want to keep your pots looking green and full of life until the end of summer.

In my experience, these tall perennial bulbs are best kept out of containers and instead should be planted in open, moist but well-draining meadow environments.

2. Giant allium

There are approximately 750 species belonging to the Allium genus, found growing across the Mediterranean, Middle East, Asia and North America. Among them are many vegetables and herbs, including onions (Allium cepa), garlic (Allium sativum) and chives (Allium schoenoprasum). There are also many ornamental species, sometimes referred to as ornamental onions, and it is these alliums that many of us grow in our garden borders and pots.

'There are so many varieties of allium bulbs to choose from when growing flowers in the yard,' says Drew Swainston, former professional gardener and gardens content editor at Homes & Gardens. 'From dwarf varieties that reach no taller than eight inches, to large species that tower above five feet, alliums can be found in all manner of shapes, sizes and colors.

'One species to avoid when container growing,' Drew continues, 'is Allium giganteum, commonly referred to as the giant allium. This species can grow up to and above four feet, so unless you have a very large pot, it is best to keep this species in the ground and out of your containers.'

As Drew says, planting tall perennial flowers, like the giant allium, is not recommended when growing in pots, often resulting in top-heavy containers that can topple over in the wind or rain.

Instead, select a shorter variety, such as Allium 'Millennium' which grows no bigger than one to two feet tall, or try golden garlic, Allium moly, with sunshine-yellow blooms that grow up to 10 inches in height. Golden garlic bulbs are available from Amazon.

3. Sicilian honey garlic

Sicilian honey garlic, or Allium siculum (syn. Nectaroscordum siculum) is a favorite bulb of many gardeners. Considered one of the best bulbs for naturalizing meadows or large borders, this tall perennial bulb has dramatic flowerheads with masses of hanging bell-like striped blooms.

Native to mountainous regions around the Aegean, Black and Mediterranean seas, Sicilian honey garlic thrives in warm regions, and can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 plus.

While this unusual spring flowering plant is undeniably attractive, it tends to self-seed freely and, over time, a handful of bulbs can develop into expansive colonies in meadows, borders and lawns. While this vigorous nature can be attractive if you have plenty of space, in smaller yards it can quickly take over. Even if you want to restrict this species to pots and containers, it will eventually find its way into your borders.

Instead of growing Sicilian honey garlic in pots, opt for one of the best miniature bulb varieties, such as these 'Valerie Finnis' grape hyacinth bulbs, available from Amazon, with small but impressive pale-blue flowers.

4. Star of Bethlehem

It is hard for me to add this next species to the list of bulbs never to plant in pots. When working as a gardener at a private Tuscan estate, there was a rolling woodland beyond the garden gate where I would often walk. The Star of Bethlehem, or Ornithogalum umbellatum, would carpet the forest floor in spring, with delicate white blooms contrasting so perfectly against the green backdrop.

However, much the same as Sicilian honey garlic above, this spring bulb is vigorous and considered an invasive plant in many US states. Once established, Star of Bethlehem bulbs can readily spread across backyard borders and beds, outcompeting many woodland native plants.

For this reason, the Star of Bethlehem is classified as invasive in Wisconsin, Tennessee, Virginia, Kentucky, Maryland and Pennsylvania. Avoid planting this bulb in your pot displays, as it will eventually find its way into your garden beds or the wider landscape, and in mild regions, can quickly become a problem.

5. Imperial fritillary

'Fritillaries are unique, elegant flowers that add striking visual interest to garden beds and borders,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening. 'Their distinctive blooms, often bell-shaped, come in a variety of colors, from deep purples and reds to creamy whites. It is impossible, I think, not to be captivated by these unusual bulbs.'

One showstopping species is Fritillaria imperialis, commonly known as the crown imperial or imperial fritillary. While colorful and grand, as can be seen in the image above, unless you have a very large container, I would add this to your list of bulbs to never plant in pots.

The bulbs of Fritillaria imperialis can be similar to the size of a fist, often two to four inches in diameter, and they will eventually grow to reach four or five feet in height. While this can look impressive in large pots, I would caution against planting this species in smaller terracotta pots that would easily topple over.

Finally, this species of fritillary also has a peculiar, pungent smell. Often described as having a skunk-like odor, this plant is perhaps better suited to the back of the garden border as opposed to a pot by the back door.

Instead, when seeking fritillary spring flowers for pots, Reese suggests growing Fritillaria meleagris, also known as the snake’s head fritillary. 'With checkered blooms in shades of purple and white, this shorter species works well in containers, allowing you to enjoy unique flowers on patios or terraces.'

FAQs

What bulbs are best suited to growing in pots?

The list of bulbs suited to growing in pots is markedly longer than this list of plants to avoid growing. All of the classic bulbs tend to be well suited to container culture, including daffodils, hyacinths and dwarf irises. Perhaps the most popular and impactful bulb suited to pot growing would be tulips. With so many tulip types available, from species tulips to fringed tulip varieties, you will find a color and form suited to your tastes. Purple flowering tulip bulbs can be ordered online from Walmart.

Whatever spring and summer blooms you choose to grow in your pots, be sure to store bulbs correctly before planting. Inspect your bulbs when they arrive, checking for signs of mold or rot, before storing them in a cool, dry and pest-free environment. I once lost hundreds of tulip bulbs to hungry mice over a single weekend, so caution and vigilance will help to save your bulbs from the same fate.

This spring, I took a trip to The Netherlands to see one of the greatest displays of tulips - Keukenhof's tulip festival. Tulips have always topped the list of my favorite spring bulbs and seeing them planted en masse - approximately seven million bulbs - was truly breath-taking. What I didn't expect was to walk away with was a newfound love for fringed tulips.

I'd never seen as many types of tulips in one place as I did when I went to Keukenhof and the fringed tulips instantly caught my eye. Similar to parrot tulips, these bulbs are identifiable by their serrated petals that add a softness to their appearance. I was fortunate enough to visit a Dutch grower's nursery during my visit where I learned these dazzling beauties aren't hugely popular in either the US or the UK. This is perhaps because they aren't obvious choices for a cottage garden style where tulips are often grown.

However, now that I've seen just how impressive these unique flowers are in full bloom, I've been converted. Here, I've put together a list of the best fringed tulip varieties just in time for fall planting, so that you can create your very own fringed tulip extravaganza in your yard.

7 stunning fringed tulip varieties

Unlike the majority of tulips that are native to southern Europe and central Asia, fringed tulips were purposely cultivated to achieve their feathery petals.

For the most part, fringed tulips can be grown across US hardiness zone three to zone eight, thriving in sunny positions. If the idea of growing fringed tulips excites you but you aren't sure where to get started, look no further. Here are seven of the best fringed tulip varieties to get you started.

1. Tulipa 'Fabio'

Not only are fringed tulips attractive for their feathery edges, but they also often have two-tone coloring. T. 'Fabio' is an excellent example of this, with vibrant red and orange-yellow hues.

'This two-toned tulip features vibrant red petals adorned with a striking yellow feathery fringe. Its bold and eye-catching appearance makes it a perfect choice for bright and colorful garden settings, especially when paired with complementary blooms like orange African daisies or snapdragons,' says garden designer Laura Janney.

Unlike early-spring flowering plants, fringed tulips tend to bloom later in the season. 'One of the best things about these flowers is that they are late bloomers,' says Laura. 'This characteristic allows them to mingle with mid-spring perennials, creating a harmonious blend of colors and textures in the garden,' she adds.

Just like planting tulip bulbs of other types, it's best to plant fringed tulip bulbs in fall before frost. Take care to plant the bulbs in well-draining soil where they will get plenty of sunlight.

You can buy 'Fabio' bulbs at Amazon.

2. Tulipa 'Fancy Frills'

I personally love the look of tulips in containers and to get an instant spring feel, there is no better choice than a pink fringed tulip. T. 'Fancy Frills' is beautiful fringed tulip in a hot pink hue.

'With creamy white petals blending into soft pink hues and delicate white fringed tips, this tulip exudes elegance,' says Laura. 'Ideal for cottage gardens with a soft color palette, it complements other cottage garden plants beautifully,' she adds.

As with other tulips, it's easy to plant these bulbs in pots. In fact, tulips often benefit from container gardening where containers have drainage holes. This is something to consider if you're planning a cut flower garden with fringed tulips.

Find 'Fancy Frills' bulbs at Amazon.

3. Tulipa 'Sugar Crystal'

This double-fringed tulip is one I become fascinated with in The Netherlands, thanks to its pastel color and abundance of petals giving it a fuller look.

There's no doubt that 'Sugar Crystal' is a high-impact bulb - the layers of feathered petals simply wows, especially when planted en masse like in the above image.

You can grow this mid-spring flowering bulb in a range of ways. 'Fringed tulips boast intricate and elaborate appearances, making them true showstoppers in any garden,' says Laura. 'To truly highlight their striking beauty, consider either sticking to a single color palette,' she suggests.

It's also possible to grow tulips indoors and there's no denying this fringed tulip would instantly brighten your interiors.

4. Tulipa 'Cummins'

If you have a purple color palette in your yard and are looking for a unique purple plant to add to your display, look no further than T. 'Cummins.' It has a powdery purple hue and a crisp white fringe.

'I love 'Cummins' as it matches the color of my lavender garden,' says Lisa Fontanarosa, a lavender expert and grower based in Albuquerque, New Mexico. 'I love to pair them with double late tulips, single late tulips and other fringed tulips,' she adds.

As Lisa notes, the purple shade of this fringed tulip is perfect as a lavender companion plant or even lavender alternative - plus, they thrive in a sunny spot alongside lavender plants.

'Cummins' bulbs are available at Walmart.

5. Tulipa 'Mecure'

Creating a garden full of unique plants that intrigue visitors is a dream for many gardeners, and T. 'Mecure' fits the bill as an unusual bulb to plant in fall.

'Featuring deep pink to burgundy petals with golden fringes, this tulip offers a captivating and unconventional look, making it a standout choice for modern garden designs,' describes Laura.

The deep color of this fringed tulip makes it a brilliant addition to dark planting scheme, like alongside shrubs with dark foliage. Grow them in a sunny spot to keep them happy and show off their burgundy tint.

6. Tulipa 'Honeymoon'

Sometimes you need to add some simplicity among elaborate planting, which is exactly what the single fringed tulip 'Honeymoon' achieves. White flowers are classic and the fringed edges of this tulip enhances the sophistication it brings to an outdoor space.

Dot 'Honeymoon' tulips among mass planting of colorful tulips to uplift your display. Alternatively, create a powerful showcase by using this fringed tulip in your white garden.

To keep your 'Honeymoon' tulips (available at Burpee) looking pristine, as well as your other fringed tulips, choose a position that is sheltered from strong wind.

7. Tulipa 'New Santa'

In my opinion, I've saved the best for last. T. 'New Santa' is the fringed tulip I found myself gravitate to at the Dutch tulip festival. It's strong red petals topped with a pure white fringe is reminiscent of strawberry candy and is the ideal fringed alternative to the single tulip 'Leen van der Mark.'

'Boasting vivid red blooms adorned with white feathery tips, this tulip lends a romantic charm to garden settings,' says Laura. 'Pair it with purple blooms like irises and bachelor buttons for a visually captivating display,' she explains.

For me, it's a must to have these bright blooms in a spring garden. Lisa Fontanarosa notes there are other similar varieties you can pair them with: 'My favorite is 'Flaming Club.' It's a beautiful red stripey tulip that is both pretty and fun. Just a few stems makes a lovely bouquet.'

For a yellow version of this tulip, opt for 'Burning Flame' from Burpee.

FAQs

How do you plant fringed tulip bulbs?

'For optimal results, plant tulip bulbs during the cooler months when night time temperatures range between 40-50°F,' says garden designer Laura Janney. When planting fringed tulip bulbs, plant them between six to eight inches deep with the pointed end facing up. A sunny, sheltered position is best and make sure to water them well to encourage the bulbs to settle and develop roots.

Do fringed tulips need fertilizing?

It can be beneficial to fertilize tulips to keep your bulbs healthy and productive. You can fertilize fringed tulips twice a year: once in spring when you see new shoots and once in fall when the bulbs are preparing to grow roots. 'You can also enhance soil richness by incorporating organic garden soil along with bone meal or bulb tone,' suggests garden designer Laura Janney.

There's no denying that fringed tulips are showstopping and their unique petals can enhance spring displays. After your tulips have flowered, make sure to cut back your plants and gently lift the bulbs from the ground. You can then store your tulip bulbs to replant in fall and enjoy their beauty again in spring.

Knowing the best bulbs for naturalizing in a lawn can really transform your yard. A true seasonal spectacle, the sight of a floral carpet emerging in spring, early summer or fall is magical, uplifting and elevates any patch of grass into a kaleidoscope of color. A great opportunity to cram even more flower power into your patch, they are also an invaluable nectar source for pollinators.

Many different types of flower bulbs are suitable for naturalizing or planting a flower bulb lawn. From the earliest snowdrops, bold winter aconites through to the taller and later appearing Poet’s Daffodil and drumstick allium Allium sphaerocephalon, these mass plantings of bulbs appear as a haze of color mingled in amongst blades of grass.

Fall is the time for planting bulbs, so if you fancy adding a carpet of blooms to your lawn, it’s time to get planning. Here we share our tips on the 11 best bulb varieties for naturalizing in a lawn, so you can make the right choice for your yard.

1. Snowdrops

Snowdrops are a great option for creating floral carpets in areas of full to part shade. These shimmering bell-shaped blooms can brighten dingy spots under evergreen trees and shrubs. They can be a little on the fussy side to get established though.

‘The soil should be well draining, avoiding waterlogged soil and very dry soil during the summer months,’ says horticultural expert Katie Sunderlage. ‘Dig holes about 2-3” deep and space each bulb about 2-3” apart for best results. Groupings or bouquets of three to five bulbs per hole will help create a more full looking showcase in the spring.’ Alternatively, consider planting snowdrops in the green.

If you want to give a mature or newly planted display of snowdrops a boost, then a balanced feed 10-10-10 or 8-8-8 can be applied in late fall upon planting or very early spring at the first sign of sprouting. ‘Be sure to avoid cutting the lawn until the foliage has completely died back,’ says Katie.

2. Crocus

With goblet shaped blooms in a vast range of colors, from pure white and cream through to golden yellow and deepest purple, planted en masse, these upright flowers are a cheery sight.

‘Crocus are one of the first spring flowers to emerge each season blooming in early spring,’ says Katie. ‘For a lavish display choose an area in your lawn that will receive a minimum of 4-6 hours of sunlight and has good drainage. Using a bulb auger, such as this one from Walmart, or spade, plant the bulbs about 2” deep placing about 10-15 bulbs per square foot for the biggest impact.’

For best results, apply an all-purpose 10-10-10 or 8-8-8 balanced fertilizer in the fall when the bulbs - or corms - are sending out new roots before winter. As tiny underground storage units, it’s important to give these bulbs the maximum opportunity to harness energy from their leaves. To do this, wait four to six weeks after flowering before cutting the lawn to ensure the remaining crocus foliage.

3. Glory of the Snow

Another very early spring bloomer, glory of the snow or Chionodoxa thrives when planted in lawns. With starry white or sky blue flowers they look particularly impressive planted solo, in large clusters or drifts. Like most bulbs they prefer well-drained soil but will thrive where it’s slightly damp.

Plant these tiny bulbs two or three times their own depth, in full sun to partial shade. They will self-seed and multiply happily, steadily increasing the display each year. ‘Once the blooms are spent and the foliage is completely withered and yellow/brown, the lawn can then be cut,’ adds Katie.

4. Snake's Head Fritillary

Growing up to 12 inches (30cm) high, the nodding bells of snake’s head fritillary are an enchanting sight. Their delicate bell-shaped heads hang from wiry stems, virtually disappearing amongst long grass. The petals are either an unusual plum shade or white, both with intricate tessellated markings.

‘A fun and relatively unusual choice in the United States, this Eurasian species Frittilaria meleagris has a variety of evocative names that celebrate its unique appearance – snake’s head, chess flower, and frog cup among them,’ says bulb expert Megan Foster. ‘The leaf structure is very fine and slender, blending well in lawn or meadow environments. Leave their leaves until they start to die back on their own, then you know the bulbs have gotten their dose of replenishment photosynthesis and that will improve the show next spring.’

Plant these bulbs in well-draining soil, but in an area that won’t become parched in the summer, the bulbs thrive in dappled shade, with moist not soggy soil.

5. Botanical tulips

Also known as species tulips, these diminutive beauties flower earlier than larger, hybrid tulips. Elegant, with single blooms, they have a natural appeal and are less blowsy than other types.

‘Crucially, botanical tulips are perennial and will naturalize, while many other tulips will not,’ explains horticulturist, Peggy Anne Montgomery. ‘They grow about 5-10 inches tall. Don’t let their diminutive size fool you; they’re tough, and thanks to their shorter stature, they won’t blow over and break in spring storms. I have Tulipa sylvestrus in my bulb lawn, and when they bloom, I love to stand in the front yard and drink in their fragrance.’

A popular choice for naturalizing, these flowers will also attract pollinators to the yard, providing an earlier source of nectar. Ideal for brightening up drier, sunnier spots, they also work well in rock gardens where they emulate their native habitat.

‘One of the many species or botanical tulips, this T. humulis cultivar - Persian Pearl Wild Tulip - is dependably perennial unlike most tulips,’ adds Megan Foster. ‘The intense fuchsia with a golden yellow center really sets this one apart and the emergent slender stems seem to hold a tiny ruby jewel before bursting open in the spring sunshine.’

6. Poet’s Daffodils

A classic and small group of bulbs, narcissus are perfect for naturalizing, these simple blooms with their short yet dramatically colored central cups have a wild and unkempt appeal. One of the oldest flowers around, it is linked to the Greek legend of Narcissus.

There are only a handful of these narcissi to choose from including Old Pheasant’s Eye. With a gorgeous lingering fragrance, its pale windswept petals are a wildly elegant sight swaying amongst long blades of grass. Team it with other spring flowering bulbs such as alliums, grape hyacinths and snake’s head fritillary for a natural and wild looking scene.

‘Actaea’ is a true heirloom that's perfect for naturalizing. ‘These dainty beauties are ideal for naturalizing bulb lawns due to their historic resilience and beauty,’ says master gardener Tabar Gifford.

‘With pure white petals and a yellow cup edged in red, this heirloom daffodil thrives in a variety of soils, forming perennial colonies that return year after year. Plant in well-drained soil about 4-6 inches deep in the fall and enjoy its sweet fragrance and vibrant blooms in late spring.’

7. Autumn Crocus

Flowering in a sunny spot from September to November, a carpet of Crocus speciosus is a sight to behold. With its violet-blue goblet-shaped blooms and golden anthers, it brings dazzling color back into the garden while little else is flowering. They are also one of the best plants for butterflies, often seeking a source of late nectar.

Quick to multiply, they will spread in poor, gritty soil, increasing the spectacle every year. Reaching heights of just 5 inches (15cm) they are ideal for planting in drifts in areas where they can be admired but left undisturbed.

As with most bulbs, crocus are popular with squirrels and will often be dug up shortly after planting, so it's well worth taking extra measures to stop squirrels from digging up bulbs.

8. Thalia daffodils

Flowering in mid spring, this type of daffodil, with its slightly twisted petals, has many admirers. Growing to heights of 13inches (35cm) it is happy in full sun or part shade.

‘Thalia Daffodils -Narcissus triandrus Thalia - are a beautiful addition to a naturalized bulb lawn,’ says Tabar Gifford. ‘With their elegant, nodding white flowers and sweet fragrance, they bring a classic, wild charm. Each stem can produce multiple blooms, making a striking display.’

Narcissus Thalia thrives in well-drained soil and is great for mass plantings or borders, blending seamlessly with a wildflower meadow or naturalized area. Tabar adds, ‘Once planted, these daffodils will return year after year, increasing in number.’ Like other naturalizing bulbs, avoid mowing until the foliage dies back.

9. Sicilian Honey Garlic

With dramatic flowerheads that splay like fireworks, Nectaroscordum siculum or Sicilian Honey Garlic is instantly recognisable. In a delicate and unusual shade of butter yellow striped with rust red, the bell-like flowers drape down from the 27-31 inch (70-80cm) tall stems. Flowering from May to June they are a striking addition to any border but also look spectacular planted informally in a lawn.

A member of the allium family, these bulbs love full sun but can tolerate some shade. They also thrive in well drained soil, so it’s worth adding a handful of horticultural grit into each planting hole, especially in heavy, clay soils. Try organic vermiculite granules from Amazon.

Over time these bulbs will become crowded and the number of blooms reduce. It this happens, once the flowers have faded carefully lift the clump with a digging fork and break apart, replanting the strongest, healthiest bulbs.

10. Winter Aconite

With their bright golden yellow floral cups, surrounded by a ruff of green, these little woodland gems are a cheery sight. Winter aconites are one of the earliest blooms to appear in the garden, usually in February, they hug the ground under deciduous trees and shrubs. Their sprawling nature makes them ideal for naturalizing in a shady spot. A member of the buttercup family they thrive in damp but free draining soil.

Growing from a rhizome rather than a bulb, these plants can be tricky to establish, but once they do start growing, they quickly colonize an area. Rather than planting while dormant try planting them in the green, that is as living plants lifted once the flowers have faded but while the foliage is still evident.

11. Grape Hyacinth

Appearing in April and May, these tiny bulbs can prove extremely resilient and will reward with vast carpets of blooms in just a few years. Brilliant planted in clumps under trees, shrubs or at the front of a border, they also look majestic planted in grass despite reaching just 2 to 4 inches (5-10cm) high.

‘Unreal blue flowers closely set together, grape hyacinth can form a veritable river of petite flowers in the lawn or edging a garden bed. They’re a classic for a reason,’ says Megan Foster.

‘In a lawn setting, you can plant them in a scatter right in the turf to create a lighter more natural effect. Over time they’ll continue to increase in blooms each spring as long as the soil is relatively well-draining, and the tops are not mown too early when they’re still catching their sunshine before summer dormancy.’

FAQs

Where should I position a bulb lawn?

As with any garden feature it’s worth taking time to consider the best position for a bulb lawn before going ahead and start planting.

‘When planning a bulb lawn, there are some factors to consider,’ advises bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. ‘Be sure to plant the bulbs in a low-traffic area where they will not be disturbed while blooming. Also, be sure the location receives ample sunlight. While some bulbs can grow in the shade, most thrive in full sun.’

Another simple but clever top tip for a designer look lies in the choice of edging, Peggy Anne explains. ‘Leaving a strip of lawn 2-3 feet wide around your bulb lawn makes it look neat and intentional, even when the grass starts growing.’

If you think planting a lawn with naturalized bulbs is great idea, then try these too. Spring planters and spring window box ideas are quick and easy ways to bring a splash of seasonal color right up to the house, and equipped with these bulb planting mistakes to avoid, you'll be guaranteed show stopping results.

While it is not without reward, bulb planting can be a tough and time-consuming task. Having the right tools for the job certainly makes the process easier, speeding things up and ensuring that your bulbs are planted to the right depth.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted many thousands of bulbs over several years working in gardens across the UK and Italy. I wish I could say that I always achieved spectacular spring displays, but this has not been the case. When I was working in Tuscany, more than 1,000 tulip bulbs were planted in a wild meadow that sadly, over the fall and winter, were excavated and consumed by ravenous local istrice (porcupines).

While I am sure the same fate will not befall your spring bulbs, planting to the right depth will give your bulbs the best chance against hungry garden visitors. Here, I share some of the best deals for these essential gardening tools.

Best bulb planter deals

Using a bulb planter will make light work of your tulip, daffodil and hyacinth planting, and let's face it, any tool that helps with your fall gardening checklist can only be a good thing. I have found the best bulb planter deals - these tools will help you to plant efficiently and effectively.

Best short-handled bulb planter deals

'Short-handled bulb planters are essential tools for gardeners,' says Tenielle Jordison, news writer on the gardens team at Homes & Gardens. 'They are particularly well suited to smaller bulbs or some of the best miniature bulbs, like croci or snowdrops.

'Simply place the bulb planter atop the soil, and use your body weight to force it into the ground. Twist and lift the soil out, before placing your bulb in the hole. Many short-handled planters have an automatic soil release function, allowing you to effortlessly refill the hole.'

Short-handled bulb planters are ideal for planting these purple 'Blue Moon' crocus bulbs, available from Amazon, for a colorful and impactful display next year.

Best long-handled bulb planter deals

'Long-handled bulb planters are your best option if you are intending to plant hundreds or maybe thousands of tulip bulbs this year,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens.

'By using a long-handled bulb planter, you can ensure that you plant bulbs at the correct depth, which is a crucial factor for healthy growth,' Rachel adds. 'These tools also ease the pressure on your back, reducing the need to bend down when planting.'

When considering how deep to plant bulbs, while this will vary from species to species, the general rule is that you should always plant at two to three times the size of the bulb. For example, for a tulip bulb measuring 1 inch in diameter, dig a hole that is 2-3 inches deep. This can be easily done with a long-handled bulb planter.

Why not try these 'Apricot Impression' tulip bulbs, available from Amazon, for a vibrant spring display?

Best auger drill bulb planter deals

Bulb planting auger drill bits are a brilliant option when planting bulbs in fall. As a gardener, I have used these accessories when planting large quantities of bulbs in heavy soils, and they make quick work of a tough job.

There are different sizes available, and longer options are preferable if you have lots of planting to do and want to avoid bending or kneeling. While auger drill bits loosen the soil, you will have to lift the soil out yourself to position your bulb. In my experience, the trick is to dig in stages, so lifting out the soil from one hole to backfill another that has a bulb placed at the bottom.

Auger drill accessories are particularly useful for planting larger bulbs, like these bright orange Fritillaria Imperialis, available from Amazon, one of the most impactful spring blooms.

FAQs

Should I add fertilizer in the holes when bulb planting?

Adding a small sprinkling of fertilizer can be a good idea when planting bulbs. I tend to use a slow-release bone meal fertilizer, available from Amazon, that will help to promote root growth during the fall and winter. Simply combine a small amount of feed with the soil when planting.

Experts are often divided on the exact time to plant bulbs. In my experience, planting early flowering daffodils in early fall, usually around October or November, is a good idea, while planting late flowering tulips in mid-fall, typically November or December, will result in spectacular floral displays next year. Whatever bulbs you opt for, just be sure to use a tool that makes the job as pain-free as possible. For a natural, wild look, why not consider learning how to plant a bulb lawn? Our guide has all the information you need to know.

If you love your yard’s seasonal show of flower bulbs and wish for a repeat next year, it’s well worth knowing how to overwinter tender bulbs.

This is the process of lifting and storing those flower bulbs that are unable to survive the winter temperatures in your locality, ready to replant them outside when warmer conditions return.

A simple fall gardening task, it takes little time and effort to do and can save you money and heartache long term. We’ve spoken to bulb experts and horticulturalists to find out how they go about it and which types of bulb it is essential for.

Why overwinter tender bulbs?

There are four different forms of ‘bulb’: corms, true bulbs, tubers and rhizomes. Essentially, they are all underground food storage units. Harvesting energy from their leaves during their active growth period, which is then stored once the foliage and flowers fade, ready to be used once again when conditions are right.

While many bulbs are undeterred by cold climates, some species such as dahlias and cannas originate from hot and tropical climes, and so are likely to perish if the soil dips below certain temperatures. On top of that, all bulbs detest spending long periods in waterlogged conditions as the basal plate (that produces roots) and layered scales (where the energy is stored), are susceptible to fungal infection and rot. If mold sets in very little can be done to save the plant, and the bulb must be discarded.

Lifting tender bulbs out of the earth and storing them somewhere cool and dry over the winter is recommended by many cool climate gardeners and horticultural experts.

Which bulbs are tender and need overwintering?

There’s no hard and fast rule as to which bulbs are tender, but there are a few likely contenders.

‘Which bulbs are tender depends on what zone you live in,’ explains horticulturalist Peggy Anne Montgomery. ‘In general, tender bulbs refer to plants that are only hardy in warmer climates of zones 8-10. If you have the proper conditions, time, and space to dig them up, they can be overwintered indoors, giving you larger bulbs for the next season's planning. If you don't, it's ok. You don't need to live without these beautiful blooms; you can plant them as annuals.’

Many summer-blooming favorites are considered tender. 'These include the ever popular and showstopping dahlias, gladiolus, begonias, canna lilies, caladiums, elephant ears, and calla lilies,’ says master gardener Tabar Gifford.

'These bulbs are planted in spring and typically grow to their full size and produce blooms in one season. Some are prized for their foliage, like elephant ears and caladiums (bonus points for canna which boast both striking foliage and colorful blooms too), while others are loved for their vibrant long blooming cheerful flowers.'

When is the best time to lift tender bulbs?

Knowing when to lift tender bulbs is key if you want them to survive the winter. 'Since tender bulbs are very sensitive to colder temperatures, it’s really important to dig up the bulbs before the ground is frozen,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage.

'Generally, a light frost will not harm the bulb that is protected by the soil, but it can damage any foliage or blooms that remain from the season.'

Wait until the foliage has died back naturally or at the first sign of freezing weather conditions. ‘If your bulbs are still plump and not mushy or rotten, you can prepare them to be stored for the winter,’ advises Tabar. ‘You want to cut back the foliage to a few inches above the ground, then gently lift them out of the soil.’

How to prepare tender bulbs ready for storage

A tried and tested technique, Peggy Anne suggest: ‘Wash or brush all the soil off the bulbs and tubers and let them cure in a dark, warm, well-ventilated place for about a week. Glads and calla lilies can cure for up to three weeks.’ She also adds, ‘I find canna lilies the easiest to overwinter. After the first light frost, I dig them, brush off the soil; a little bit left on the tuber is ok, and let them cure for just two days.’

If dry, sunny weather is forecast you may want to leave bulbs lifted and to dry in the sun, as Katie Sunderlage suggests. 'Prepare a location outdoors to allow the bulbs to dry in the sun for a couple of days. It’s important to choose a few days in a row with no chance of precipitation to make sure they dry thoroughly. Any moisture can cause the bulbs to rot during storage.'

The best way to store tender bulbs over winter

Good ventilation is a crucial factor for storing flower bulbs. ‘Pack them up in a breathable container then store in a cool and dry location. Often packing with wood shavings, or peat moss helps to regulate moisture, so your bulbs don’t rot in storage or completely dry out,’ says Peggy Anne.

The idea is to keep the bulbs in a dormant state until warmer and light days return which will prompt them to regrow. Providing the right conditions is all important and Katie advises to, ‘Store in a low humidity, dark location where temperatures will not freeze but also will not exceed 60F.’

Once you’ve safely packed up the dormant bulbs it’s a good idea to check on them once in a while. ‘Many people use crates or boxes with some ventilation holes,’ says Tabar. ‘I would also add to be cautious about critters seeking winter nesting spots.

'I stored my dahlias in the garage one year after carefully digging, cleaning, drying and packing them away in a mixture of wood shavings and shredded newspaper. I was surprised to find that the winter storage I created soon became a nesting place for field mice. My dahlias did not make it that year,’ adds Tabar.

Try Amazon's selection of collapsible storage crates or for smaller quantities opt for their hanging mesh storage bags.

FAQs

Do you need to overwinter tender bulbs planted in pots outside?

If you’ve grown your tender bulbs in containers, you can follow the same practices for overwintering your bulbs planted directly in the ground. Cut back the foliage, gently lift out of the soil, clean and dry, then carefully pack up for winter storage. ‘However, many gardeners also experience success with simply moving the containers into a cool but dry location for storage,’ says master gardener Tabar Gifford. ‘A garage, basement or garden shed can serve as safe place with enough protection from the elements to overwinter your tender bulbs in their containers.’

There is a note of caution though, ‘It’s still important to be sure they are not too wet, and are in healthy viable condition,’ says Tabar. ‘Another method used is to wrap your containers in frost blankets, or pack with leaves to provide additional insulation for their winter naps. It’s important to keep in mind that containers will freeze first before the ground does, so if you’ve got tender bulbs in containers and in the ground, prioritize tending to the containers first when frost threatens.’

Are oriental lilies considered tender?

As flamboyant and highly perfumed bulbs, oriental lilies are hugely popular in borders and containers. Acid loving bulbs they thrive in sunny spots but are not as delicate as their blooms may suggest. 'The general rule of spring planted bulbs being tender has an exception: lilies. Oriental lilies are not tender and are just as happy being planted in the fall as they are in the spring,' says master gardener Tabar Gifford. 'For this reason, they are not a tender bulb, and will overwinter in cold locations happily. Most oriental lilies are cold hardy in zones 3-9.'

Inspired to continue adding to your display of flower bulbs then discover how to transform a dull, shady spot with the best bulbs for shade and our favourite high impact varieties for a spectacular show next season.

The best bulbs for shade can transform even the dingiest parts of your garden. These tiny powerhouses of the plant world will thrive in spots the sun seldom reaches, radiating life and color with their cheery blooms.

While many flower bulbs adore full sun, there are several that prefer living life on the darker side, happy in the shade cast by neighbouring buildings, shrubs and trees. Where temperatures are lower and the soil often damp, planting these bulbs will mean they can quietly take over borders, pots and grassy areas providing glorious seasonal displays.

Besides the springtime favorites, such as delicate snowdrops, English bluebells and lily of the valley; that thrive in the dappled light of budding deciduous trees, there are plenty of summer bloomers too. These include tuberous begonias, liatris and majestic lilies, which then make way for nerines and cyclamen in fall. Our experts share their top bulbs for shade, so you can plant up color in the darker corners.

Hardy cyclamen

OK strictly speaking this is a bulb-like tuber rather a true bulb, but delicate hardy cyclamen will bring color and beauty to a shady area when little else is flowering.

Blooming from late winter to early spring, their butterfly-style petals in shades of white, pink and magenta float gently above the low-growing kidney-shaped leaves. Best planted in humus-rich soil, just under the soil’s surface, they will slowly multiply over a few years to form a mesmerizing display.

Standout cyclamen varieties include Cyclamen coum with its dark green foliage marbled with silver and white and the larger flowered Cyclamen hederifolium and its ivy-shaped leaves. Find a great value selection of Van Zyverden Cyclamen Coum bulbs at Walmart.

Plant cyclamen out from fall to early spring when the ground is not frozen and expect them to reach heights of 2-5in (5-13cm).

Winter Aconite

Looking for some mid-winter garden cheer, then these vivid blooms are a must. ‘Winter aconite, Eranthis hyemalis, are the first bulbs to bloom in my garden and start appearing in January,’ says horticulturist Peggy Anne Montgomery.

‘They are only 2-3 inches tall, but the brightness of the yellow blooms makes them visible from a great distance. Quick to spread and multiply, mine are planted in a large deciduous shrub and rose border where they can roam and reseed freely, providing us with a bigger and better show every year.’

Plant winter aconites in moist, well-drained soil where it stays damp - even in summer.

Winter windflower

Although strictly tubers or rhizomes, woodland anemones, also known as winter windflower or Anemone blanda are generally grouped together with flowering bulbs.

Their uplifting, daisy-like flowers come in light blue, pink, and white pastel hues and provide an early source of nectar for bees and other pollinators. Hugging the ground, they turn their flower heads away from the wind, hence their common name winter windflower.

‘I like to plant them with warm-season grasses and other later-emerging perennials,’ says Peggy Anne. ‘That way, you can extend the seasons of interest, and neither plant hinders the other. They will thrive in a wide range of soils as long as they are well-drained and are perfectly happy with dry situations during dormancy.’

Snake's Head Fritillary

Sometimes known as the checkerboard flower, these bulbs with their delicate nodding heads appearing in April and May are fabulous for shady spots.

One of the best spring bulbs to plant in fall they are at home in borders, pots or naturalized in a lawn. Reaching heights of 12inch (30cm), their wiry stems and leaves appear almost invisible creating a hovering haze of soft burgundy, pink or white bell-like blooms.

Plant at a depth of four times the bulb height, they will gradually multiply to form stunning floral carpets. Perfect for wildflower and woodland gardens, snake's head fritillary are available from Amazon. They are nectar rich, easy to grow and need little attention.

Glory of the Snow

If you are looking for spring blooms that are a little different, then try Chionodoxa forbesii sp. or Glory of the Snow. Growing up to 6’’(15cm) high, their star-shaped flowers create shimmering waves of dreamy blue, violet and white hues during March and April.

‘No garden should be without this quintessential spring flowering bulb with its upward-facing, sky-blue flowers, and white eyes,’ says Peggy Anne. ‘Each stem will produce several starry flowers. Plant these naturalizing blooms where you can view them up close.

'They do well in perennial shade borders, where they will bloom before the perennials are big enough to take over plus try them in lawns, cottage and informal gardens.’

Hardy in US hardiness zones 4-9, plant in fall and they will thrive with little attention.

Snowdrop

Perhaps the earliest spring flower to appear, snowdrops are an uplifting sight in January and February. Needing very little attention these little beauties will happily spread in damp, yet well-draining soil, forming dense carpets of tiny white bells, often flecked with green. In fact, there are over 20 species of Galanthus to choose from, each with their own nuances and characteristics.

‘Snowdrops or Galanthus, prefer to grow in more shady locations,’ says Katie Sunderlage. ‘Often planted under trees or shrubs, they prefer more moist, well-drained soil which makes more shady locations the best option. Since snowdrops are quite small, they do work best and create more of a showcase if planted in larger groups.’

Plant them either in fall; as dry bulbs placing them around 2-3” (5-7.5cm) deep and 2-3” (5-7.5cm) apart or ‘in the green’ that is immediately after the flowers have faded but the leaves are still green.

Once you've decided on which of these best bulbs for shade to choose, why not think about other parts of your yard to naturalise with spring bulb flowers. Our guide on how to plant a bulb lawn is packed with expert advice on creating larger drifts of bulbs to break up areas of grass and lawn.

Have you thought about how to make your garden truly stand out next year? Now is the perfect time to plant bulbs that will deliver a breathtaking display in 2025. To create a real statement garden design, consider bold, high-impact bulbs that promise towering blooms or vibrant, striking colors to impress.

These bulbs aren’t just beautiful - they’re dramatic, bold, and designed to transform your garden with their size, structure, and intense color. Why settle for subtle when you can make your garden a true showstopper?

We’ve curated eight of the best high-impact spring bulbs that will bring unique beauty and flair to your space. Plant them this fall, and by next year, your garden will be brimming with unforgettable blooms.

Best High-Impact Bulbs for 2025

If you want to make a statement with your choice of bulbs, you should look for varieties that provide height, texture, and vibrant blooms to ensure your garden makes an impact from early spring through to summer.

Whether you want to introduce vertical drama, eye-catching shapes, or an unexpected splash of color, these high-impact bulbs are perfect for designing a garden that will leave a lasting impression in 2025.

1. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial)

Latin Name: Fritillaria imperialis
Other names: Crown Imperial
USDA hardiness zones 5-8

Fritillaria imperialis is a real showstopper. These tall plants are sure to add grandeur to any garden, reaching heights of up to 4 feet tall with bold, bell-shaped flowers in vivid orange or yellow hues. Its blooms dangle from the top of sturdy stems, creating a striking contrast against its dark green foliage, and each flower cluster is topped with a crown of green leafy bracts, adding to its regal appearance.

Plant imperial fritillaries 6-8 inches deep in the fall, ensuring they are placed on their sides to prevent water from collecting and causing rot. These towering beauties are best planted in groups for a more dramatic effect when they flower in 2025, and they will thrive in full sun and well-drained soil.

Fritillaria imperialis is a great addition to garden borders and they look fantastic when planted at the back of flower beds, where their unique height can truly stand out. These plants are also fairly deer-resistant, making them perfect for gardens in areas with wildlife.

Once mature, Fritillaria imperialis prefers consistent moisture but cannot tolerate soggy soil. Pair them with other tall, bold perennials like alliums or ornamental grasses to create privacy and make an architectural statement in the garden.

2. Allium Purple Sensation

Latin Name: Allium hollandicum 'Purple Sensation'
Other names: Ornamental onion
USDA hardiness zones 4-8

With its vivid, spherical purple flower heads, Allium 'Purple Sensation' is one of the best varieties of allium bulb to plant now if you want to add drama and height to your garden in 2025.

'Alliums are showier cousins to onions and garlic, and they delight in late spring with their showy, spherical purple and white flower-heads,' says Amy Yarger, senior director of horticulture at Butterfly Pavilion. In full bloom, Allium 'Purple Sensation' rises up to 3 feet tall and its long-lasting blooms attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, making them a favorite for wildlife gardens.

Plant 'Purple Sensation' bulbs 6-8 inches deep in the fall in well-drained soil and ensure they receive full sun to partial shade for the best results. These alliums naturalize well, so you may also want to plant them in groups for a more impactful look in 2025.

Once established, these alliums are drought-tolerant and require little care. Pair them with bearded irises (see below), tulips, or ornamental grasses to create a well-balanced design in borders or mixed beds.

You can purchase Purple Sensation Alliums bulbs from Dutch Grown.

3. Bearded Iris

Latin Name: Iris germanica
Other names: Bearded flag, German Iris
USDA hardiness zones 3-9

When in full bloom, Bearded irises offer bold, ruffled petals that come in a vast range of colors, from soft pastels to deep jewelled tones. These striking flowers grow atop tall, sturdy stems, and will add height and elegance to borders and mixed plantings. Their distinct beards add texture to their petals, making them a favorite among professional gardeners.

'Bearded irises are a wonderful way to introduce structure and height to your garden,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Home & Gardens. 'Their wide range of colors means you can find the perfect variety to complement your existing garden scheme, and they make excellent cut flowers.'

Plant rhizomes in the fall, making sure the tops are just above the soil surface to prevent rot. Bearded Irises prefer well-drained soil and full sun, and you should space them about 12 inches apart to allow for growth.

These irises thrive in full sun and can tolerate a wide range of soil types, provided the soil is well-drained. Once mature, Bearded Irises are drought-tolerant and require minimal watering. Pair them with alliums or peonies for a layered garden design that showcases a variety of textures and colors.

You can purchase the vibrant bearded irises pictured above from Dutch Grown.

4. Foxtail Lilies

Latin Name: Eremurus robustus
Other names: Desert candles
USDA hardiness zones 5-8

Foxtail lilies are towering, eye-catching plants that are guaranteed to add bold vertical interest to late spring and early summer gardens. These stunning flowers can reach impressive heights of up to 8 feet, with long spikes of star-shaped flowers that bloom from late May to early June, and erupt with shades of gold, orange, apricot, and pink.

'These bulbs are some of the showiest of all the bulbs listed here,' says Amy Yarger from Butterfly Pavillion. 'In late spring, their shape and height make them look like exclamation points in the garden, a great example of a garden showstopper.'

'Bees avidly visit the flowers to collect pollen and nectar,' adds Amy, which makes foxtail lilies an essential bulb to plant this year if you want to attract bees to your garden in 2025.

These tuberous bulbs require a wide planting hole about 3 inches deep to accommodate their sprawling roots. Be sure to plant them in well-draining, organically rich soil in a sunny location, as they thrive in bright, dry conditions. Amy adds, 'They do not live long in soggy areas or if there is regular disturbance to the planting bed.'

If you want to add vertical drama to your borders, you can't go wrong pairing these bulbs with other tall perennials like ornamental grasses or alliums. You can purchase foxtail lily bulbs from Walmart.

5. Parrot Tulips

Latin Name: Tulipa gesneriana
Other names: Ruffled tulips
USDA hardiness zones 4-7

When it comes to selecting high -impact bulbs for 2025, few flowers can beat the flamboyant, frilled petals of parrot tulips. This dramatic type of tulip features large, feathered blooms in a vibrant range of colors, from rich reds to sunny yellows, and even multi-colored varieties.

'Tulips do best when planted in October. In colder climates, for USDA hardiness zones 4-6, it’s best to plant them a few weeks earlier,' advises Tammy Sons, CEO of TN Nursery.

Parrot tulips will thrive in full sun, requiring at least six hours of midday sunlight to reach their full potential. They also prefer well-drained soil with a neutral pH level, and should be planted about six inches deep.

Parrot tulips perform best when planted in groups for a fuller, more dramatic display. Once in bloom, try to protect then from strong winds, as their large, frilly petals can be delicate. Pair them with other late-blooming perennials or use them as focal points in containers for maximum impact.

6. Allium 'Giant Schubertii'

Latin Name: Allium schubertii
Other names: Starburst allium
USDA hardiness zones 5-8

Allium 'Giant Schubertii' is one of the most high-impact bulbs you can plant, thanks to its dramatic starburst flower heads that can span up to 12 inches across. These impressive florets radiate outwards, giving these alliums a firework-like appearance.

Plant these bulbs 6-8 inches deep in full sun and well-drained soil during the fall for a an eye-catching display in 2025. If you really want to push the envelope and create more dramatic impact, plant them in clusters or alongside other varieties of allium.

'Giant Schubertii' is one of my favorite alliums for adding bold structure to a garden scheme,' says Rachel Bull. 'Its large, dramatic flower heads create a wonderful contrast with more traditional blooms, and the seed heads will remain attractive well into the summer months.'

Allium 'Giant Schubertii' prefers sunny, well-drained spots in the garden, making it a good fit for borders and mixed beds where its size can be showcased. Once mature, these plants are drought-tolerant and work beautifully when paired with irises for a bold-yet-well-balanced scheme.

You can purchase the Giant Schubertii pictured above at Home Depot.

7. Camassia leichtlinii

Latin Name: Camassia leichtlinii
Other Names: Camas, Quamash
USDA Hardiness Zones 3-8

'Another native option is Camassia, or camas lily, which grows well in wet meadows and moist gardens,' says Tammy Sons, CEO of TN Nursery. In its maturity, Camassia produces tall spires of star-shaped flowers in beautiful shades of blue, purple, or white, reaching heights of 3-4 feet.

These eye-catching blooms are densely packed along sturdy stems, adding a striking vertical element to borders and naturalized garden areas. Their late-spring bloom time makes them ideal for extending the flowering season just as earlier bulbs are waning.

Tammy recommends planting Camassia bulbs in the fall, around 4-6 inches deep and spaced 6-8 inches apart, in well-drained soil. Because these plants naturalize well, you may wish to plant them in groups for a more impactful display.

These bulbs tolerate damp soil better than most, making them suitable for areas with poor drainage. They are especially well-suited to naturalistic or meadow-style gardens. They are also an excellent choice for areas that receive seasonal moisture, such as near ponds or rain gardens. Once established, Camassia is relatively low-maintenance and will pair beautifully with other tall perennials like foxgloves or grasses.

8. Hyacinth 'Woodstock'

Latin Name: Hyacinthus orientalis 'Woodstock'
Other Names: Hyacinth
USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9

Though compact in size, Hyacinth 'Woodstock' feature dense upright spikes of velvety, deep purple flowers, that add a rich, moody tone to borders and containers. These beautiful blooms also release a sweet, heady fragrance in springtime, making them perfect for scented borders.

Plant hyacinth bulbs in groups of 5 or more, 4-6 inches deep during the fall, in well-drained soil. These bulbs will produce create a dense burst of color and fragrance in 2025.

Hyacinths thrive in full sun to partial shade and are well-suited to rock gardens, borders, or patio containers where their fragrance can be enjoyed. Pair them with tulips or early-blooming perennials like primroses for a layered, colorful spring display.

To really ramp up your bulb efforts, you may also want to try these unusual bulbs to plant in fall. These rarely seen varieties are all easy to grow and will add unique charm to your garden, making them well worth the effort.

Buying bulbs is an exciting and economical way to add color to a space. Early fall is a great time to buy spring bulbs but, while it is better to plant bulbs quickly after you get them, there will be times you need to store them to plant at a later date.

For example, many growers may get their daffodils, hyacinths, alliums, tulips, and other spring bulbs in one go. However, the time to plant various spring bulbs alters and you may have to store tulip bulbs as they are often planted later than others.

If you cannot plant fresh bulbs immediately, for any reason, storing them in the right conditions, and in a suitable container, ensures they won’t deteriorate. Knowing how to store bulbs can keep your purchased bulbs in top condition and also gives you the tools to lift and store bulbs to plant again next year.

How to store bulbs

Whether you order bulbs to plant or lift bulbs to overwinter, there are different reasons to learn how to store bulbs correctly. Storing bulbs properly, whether for a short period or throughout winter, keeps them in good condition and ready to grow again once put outdoors or the bulbs planted in pots.

How to store bulbs until planting - 3 tips to follow

There are three golden rules recommended to stick to for storing bulbs, whether purchased bulbs waiting to be planted or lifted bulbs. The same rules outlined below will apply in both circumstances.

• Spring bulbs are planted in fall, they can be stored for a few weeks before planting but shouldn’t be stored till the following year. It is not advised to plant these bulbs in January or beyond as they will deteriorate if left in storage too long.
• Tender bulbs are lifted before the frosts. All soil wants to be removed and stems and foliage removed. They must be dried before being stored as any moisture left inside the bulbs can cause rot.

1: Check the bulbs

Unfortunately, even if you have purchased fresh spring bulbs to plant, there is no guarantee that every bulb you receive will be of the highest quality. That is especially true if buying bulbs online, or bulk buying bulbs to plant. Unpack the bulbs from their containers and check them individually to keep only the best quality bulbs.

‘When your bulbs arrive, I suggest opening your packages up and inspecting them,’ recommends Thomas Rutter, a former professional gardener and content editor at H&G. ‘If any of the bulbs feel soft or show signs of mold or rot, remove them before storing. One rotten bulb can spoil the bunch.’

The same quality inspection must take place of any bulbs lifted from the yard to overwinter. Whether you are planting tulip bulbs, daffodils, or any other bulbs, any that have holes in or feel soft and show signs of decay are always best discarded and not stored.

2: Pick the right conditions

Bulbs want to be stored in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated space to keep them in the best condition. A shed, garage or outbuilding that can provide a temperature range of 50-60°F is ideal to keep the bulbs dormant and in good condition. Avoid humid environments as this can cause the bulbs to rot, so steer clear from storing bulbs in greenhouses or inside the home.

Georgina O'Grady, an experienced horticulturist and managing director at Evergreen Direct, claims that a dark environment is also ‘vital’ when storing bulbs. ‘This is because light can cause them to sprout too early,’ she explains. ‘I once made the mistake of keeping tulip bulbs near a window, and they started sprouting far too soon, leading to weaker growth when I finally planted them.’

The choice of container also plays a key role, as it can help provide air circulation that the bulbs need to be stored safely. Purchased bulbs may arrive in a plastic bag and such a container may encourage the development of moisture during storage - even if the plastic has air holes in it. Excessive moisture can cause mold and rot.

‘If they are in a plastic bag, it is best to transfer them to a paper bag or hessian sack, this will allow the bulbs to breathe before you get around to planting,’ recommends Thomas Rutter. Bulbs can also be stored in a cardboard box, but not a plastic one or any airtight container, and any lid should be open to allow moisture to escape.

3: Keep pests away

Mice and other rodents can be attracted to stored bulbs. They can nibble at the bulbs and cause significant damage - you can potentially lose large numbers of bulbs to the pests. You may have mice in a garage or shed and rodents in an attic, all of which are potential storage places for bulbs.

Any storage location has to be secure and free from rodents - check for any signs that you have mice before committing to store bulbs in that spot. And take measures to keep the bulbs protected from these roving pests.

‘I have lost many stored bulbs to common pests over the years, with mice and rats nibbling away at precious tulips, for example,’ admits Thomas Rutter. ‘My advice: ensure that your bulbs are securely protected from pests, either in a wooden crate or a sealed box with small holes for air circulation. Just be sure to open the box every few days and give your bulbs a shake.’

It is recommended to check stored bulbs regularly to spot any that are going soft in storage, so they can be quickly removed before causing others to deteriorate too.

FAQs

How do you store daffodil bulbs for next year?

Once you plant daffodil bulbs, they can happily remain in the ground to bloom again the following year. If you wish to lift daffodils and replant them, wait until they completely die back. Lift the bulbs, discard any that are soft or damaged, and let them dry out. Store the bulbs in a paper or mesh bag somewhere cool, dark, and well-ventilated ready to plant again in the fall for flowering the following spring.

As with proper storage, knowing how deep to plant bulbs also helps avoid issues with rotting or being eaten by pests. Not all bulbs are planted at the same depth, however, the general rule to avoid making bulb planting mistakes is to plant at a depth of three times the bulb’s height.

Bulbs are the stars of the winter and spring garden. While much else is dormant, you can rely on early flowering daffodils, hyacinths and tulips to add a splash of color. Bulbs, I think, are a quick, easy and affordable way to create spectacular displays.

While we all know that most bulbs produce colorful blooms, perhaps less well-known are the scented species and varieties. As a former professional gardener, I have planted many bulbs in different gardens across the UK, yet I think it is hard to beat some of the best fragrant bulbs listed here. Planted together in a bulb lasagne, who wouldn't swoon over musk-scented hyacinths or sweetly-perfumed Daffodil 'Pipet' during the cold, darker months of the year?

Taking a small amount of time to order, plan and prepare in the fall will ensure that your displays are something special. So, if you are looking for winter and spring bulbs to plant in fall that have an unrivaled fragrance, our expert-approved list has some inspiring and unusual options.

When to plant fragrant bulbs

Knowing when to plant spring bulbs is less important than you might think. While it is generally advised to plant them in the fall (typically from October through until December, depending on your US hardiness zone), some species can be planted much later. I have planted tulip bulbs in January and even as late as February in previous years, although this would not be suitable for early flowering winter bulbs such as daffodils.

While the gardening handbooks will tell you that timely planting achieves the best results, late planting should not damage your bulbs too much, it might just result in a late display. My advice: get your bulbs in the ground when you can, but don't worry if you are a little later than what is advised on the packaging.

1. Narcissus 'Campernelle Double'

For cheerful, colorful bulbs, it is hard to beat growing daffodils. 'One fragrant daffodil species I love is the 'Campernelle Double' variety,' says Vanessa Elms, bulb expert and owner of Old House Gardens.

'With such a heavenly fragrance, these daffodils can perfume your home and garden,' Vanessa continues. 'With even just a few stems in a vase or a pot, you will be sure to smell them when walking nearby.'

Growing best in US hardiness zone 6 to US hardiness zone 8, 'Campernelle Double' should be planted in a 'sunny to lightly shaded site,' Vanessa advises. 'Full sun is best in northern regions, but opt for a partially shaded bed if you garden in the south.'

This variety usually reaches no more than 10 to 15 inches in height, so would be ideal for use in a container display or bulb lasagne. When planting bulbs, I prefer to use a hori hori knife, which can help to make a slight, small gap in the soil to place each bulb. Hori hori knives are available from Amazon, or check out our bulb planter deals page to find our recommendations.

One common bulb planting mistake is shallow planting, so be sure to get your bulbs as deep as possible. For 'Campernelle Double', aim for twice or three times the depth of the bulb, typically around six to eight inches deep. Many hori hori knives have engraved measurements on the blade, which can prove useful when bulb planting in pots or in the ground.

2. Hyacinths

Hyacinths are some of the most popular spring bulbs, and fortunately, all hyacinth varieties are fragrant. Hardy down to US hardiness zone 4, hyacinths can survive freezing winters to then put on a dazzling spring show, blooming in shades of lilac, white, maroon and peach.

Some of my favorites are the deep, rich purple varieties, that look particularly striking during the early weeks of spring. 'Purple Sensation' hyacinth bulbs are available to order from Walmart.

'Hyacinths can be pretty big bulbs,' says Megan Foster, perennial and bulb expert for American Meadows, who grow plenty of fragrant bulbs. 'I always recommend digging deep enough so that the bulb will sit about three times deeper than its own size.' Planting deeply is also a way to stop squirrels from digging up bulbs.

'Hyacinth bulbs will not do well in waterlogged soil,' Megan continues. So, if your backyard is damp and suffers from poor drainage, why not try 'using attractive pots for your bulb displays.'

As Megan suggests, hyacinths are ideal plants if you are looking to create a fragrant bulb lasagne in a pot. Consider combining with early flowering croci and late flowering tulips, such as Tulip 'Creme Upstar' which has beautiful peach blooms and a delicate sweet fragrance.

3. Narcissus 'Pipit'

For those seeking unusual bulbs, 'Pipit' has a unique color gradation changing from lemon yellow at the outer petals to white in the center. This fragrant daffodil is one of my favorite bulbs to grow in a container, typically reaching 10 to 12 inches in height.

For impact, I recommend filling one, two (or several) pots with 'Pipit' bulbs combined with white hyacinths, ensuring that you have successive blooms in the springtime. Why not position these pots by your front door for a cheerful and perfumed entryway?

Growing best in US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 9, each flowering stem tends to produce two to three blooms, creating a spectacular fragrant display in mid to late spring.

Narcissus 'Pipit' bulbs are available to order from Amazon.

4. Tulip 'Ballerina'

For late-spring planter ideas, tulips are the obvious choice. With so many tulip types and such an array of colors and shapes, you are sure to find one to suit your needs and preferences.

Tulip 'Ballerina' ticks all the boxes. With slim, elegant orange flowers that have lily-like pointed petals, this variety not only looks the part but also has a wonderful fragrance.

Growing best in US hardiness zones 3 to 8, plant Tulip 'Ballerina' in a full-sun position in your garden borders. I would caution against planting in pots (unless you have large containers) as this variety can reach 12 to 24 inches in height.

Tulip 'Ballerina' bulbs are available to order from Amazon.

5. Paperwhites

If you are looking for winter flowers for scent, paperwhites are a superb pick. Many gardeners use these bulbs indoors for Christmas displays, and positioning one or two pots as part of your winter table decor is certainly a nice touch.

I recommend planting paperwhite bulbs in early October for a dazzling Thanksgiving display, or, for Christmas scent plant in the second or third week of November. Paperwhite bulbs are available to order online from Amazon. Planting them slightly later in December is perfectly fine, it will just mean later blooming in the New Year.

In my experience, paperwhites are best treated as annual bulbs, flowering once and only once. These bulbs are not cold hardy, and so for those us gardeners in cooler regions below US hardiness zone 8, paperwhites must be grown under glass otherwise they will not survive until the following year. These bulbs need hot, dry summers, and so are only really considered perennial in southern regions such as Texas and Arizona.

FAQs

What are the best fragrant bulbs for a small container garden?

All of the above selections can be grown as part of a fragrant pot display on a terrace, patio or balcony. Hyacinths have an unmistakable scent and with such an array of impactful colors, from pink to purple and red to yellow, there is sure to be a variety to suit your tastes. Consider planting hyacinths as part of a bulb lasagne alongside other miniature bulbs, such as scilla, muscari and crocus, which can all be grown in small to medium-sized pots.

Freshly planted bulbs are a tasty snack for mice, squirrels or deer, who are particularly attracted to tasty tulip bulbs. If you do have a pest problem, opt for daffodils and hyacinths, which are generally considered to be one of the best deer-resistant spring bulbs. I would also recommend planting as deep as possible (at least twice the depth of the size of the bulb) to give your spring blooms the best chance against hungry garden visitors.

The air is getting crisper in the morning, which means it's that time of year when thoughts turn to planting bulbs for next spring and summer. But as you flip through the bulb catalog this time around, think twice before you place your usual order.

There's a whole world of gorgeous bulb choices that might be less familiar, but just as spectacular when in bloom, instead of the traditional favorites like daffodils and hyacinths. Seek out new, standout varieties to add to those you already love to give your fall bulb planting a fresh new take.

Our experts have chosen seven of the best unusual bulbs to plant in fall that truly deserve a place in your borders and containers alongside more established varieties. These beauties will take your spring bulbs to the next level and will soon become a permanent fixture in your garden.

The best unusual spring bulbs to plant in fall

Mix up those well-established choices by adding some unusual bulbs to plant this fall season. There are some real standout varieties here, especially if you like the idea of picking some tall flower types to add a majestic touch to your spring garden ideas.

1. Pink camassia

USDA zones: 4-8
Other names: Californian quamash, wild hyacinth

Camassia is an underused bulb that flowers in late spring to early summer. The flowers come mostly in shades of blue but there are more unusual varieties to be found in white or pink.

The flowers bloom for a long period. The large racemes of star-shaped powder blue, creamy white or pale pink petals with yellow anthers and pale green centers are stunning, and will add a strong vertical accent to planting.

These are lovely bulbs and should be grown more often as they are reliable and hardy. Another plus is that they thrive in tricky spots such as dry or damp shade. There’s no need to lift them once planted either. For pale pink flowers, look out for ‘Pink Star’ as well as 'Aurora' (pictured).

'Several species of camassia are native to the United States,' says horticulturalist Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'They have strappy, low-growing basal foliage and one long-flowering stem that grows to about 15-18 inches tall on strong stems that don’t need staking.'

Find out how to grow camassia as now is the time to plant them. They are easy to grow in moist, well-drained soil, adds Peggy. 'They can handle drier conditions as they go dormant in summer. They bloom best in full sun but will tolerate light shade. They attract pollinators, and are fairly deer and rodent-resistant.'

2. Allium nigrum

USDA zones: 2-10
Other name: Black garlic

It's easy to forget that fall is the time to plant alliums as they're more associated with the early spring garden. It's also easy to overlook the fact that the best varieties of allium bulbs come in crisp white varieties as well as the regulation purple and mauve ones.

The simple-to-grow heirloom bulb allium nigrum (the black seed capsules are how it gets the name) looks stunning when planted en masse, spreading over time to fill in spaces in the garden.

'Allium nigrum is one of my favorites because it's so strong and multiplies well, and also grows happily in partial shade,' says bulb expert Jacqueline van der Kloet. 'The flowers make an appearance in mid-May and last for a long time. At about 30 inches in height, this is an impressive species.'

3. Spring star flower

USDA zones: 5-9
Other names: Ipheion uniflorum, Mexican starflower

Spring star flowers have dainty flowers ranging in color from almost white to blue and periwinkle. They bloom on six inch stems in late winter and early spring, and each bulb produces several flowering stems.

'They are considered very easy to grow and tolerate a wide range of well-drained soils,' says Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'They prefer full sun to light shade. These are perfect for naturalizing in lawns, rock gardens, and other areas, as they multiply by bulb offsets and from seed.'

If you're looking for something a little different to star in your spring garden be sure to add this variety to your list. Another plus is that the flowers are sweet-scented, giving you a subtle hit every time you pass by.

4. Fritillaria persica 'Ivory Bells'

USDA zones: 4-8
Other names: Persian lily, Persian bell

If you're looking for unusual bulbs to plant in fall that add a touch of majesty, then your search is over. This stunning variety of fritillaria is rarely seen and offers a real head-turning moment in the spring garden with its beautiful racemes of bell-shaped flowers that turn from lime green to creamy ivory during the season.

It grows up to 3 feet tall too, blooming from mid to late spring and adding height as a point of difference to the rest of the low-lying spring bulbs.

Plant 8 inches deep in soil that is moist, airy and rich in humus. Add some fertiliser to the soil as these grow so fast they'll need feeding. They do best in full sun

If you want to add an edgy look to your garden, fritillaria persica also comes in an inky dark purple shade called 'Plum Bells' that's so dark it's almost black.

5. Tulip 'La Belle Epoque'

USDA zones: 3-8
Other names: none

If you are looking for more unusual color choices for spring bulbs, tawny shades and earthy tones are bang on trend right now. They add an organic feel to the garden, especially when paired with bronze, orange and pale yellow colors in the planting palette.

'Some of the most unusual color choices in the flower garden are the autumnal shades of brown, russet, amber, fawn, and chestnut,' says horticulturalist Jenny Rose Carey. 'If you're looking for these colors include tulips like 'La Belle Epoque' and 'Brown Sugar'. Follow these with a selection of brown-tinged bearded iris.'

A double-flowered late variety, you won't find any other tulip like 'La Belle Epoque'. In fact, it looks more like a flamboyant peony than a tulip. Find out how to plant tulip bulbs, which can go into the ground as late as November, to get the most out of your flowers. This variety will grow 15 inches tall and you will enjoy its blooms (are they pink, peach, apricot, cappuccino or a subtle mix of all these colors?) for weeks on end.

If you feel like channeling your inner florist 'La Belle Epoque' a great choice if you're planning a cut flower garden too.

6. Foxtail lily

USDA zones: 5-8
Other names: Eremurus, Desert candles

'Foxtail lilies flower in early summer and are incredibly showy,' says Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'The long flower stems rise 3 to 4 feet tall with hundreds of individual blooms that flower in succession in shades of white, orange, pink, and yellow. They are unlike anything else.'

They like well-drained soil in a sunny location protected from wind. Plant them as soon as they arrive or are purchased, or they can dry out. Cover them with no more than 2 to 3 inches of soil.

One of the tallest flowers in the late spring/early summer garden, they make a dramatic punctuation mark in flower beds. If they like the spot you put them in they can grow as tall as 8 feet - be sure to give them plenty of space so they can spread their wings.

7. Wand flower

USDA zones: 8-10
Other names: Ixia, corn lily or African corn lily

The bright colorful blooms and sword-shaped leaves of the wand flower make it a popular choice if you're looking for something a little different to fill the gap between the late spring and early summer garden.

With tall spikes of star-like blooms in pink, yellow, and white, wand flowers are a great choice for any hot, sunny spot and work particularly well for Mediterranean garden ideas. They bloom in late spring, generally from May to June, and can be grown in colder zones too, as long as they're lifted in the fall and overwintered in a dry, frost-free place.

Perfect for filling gaps in flowerbeds or rock gardens, wand flowers will form clumps over time, so can easily be propagated by division in fall. They work well in containers too.

FAQs

What's the easiest way to plant bulbs?

The easiest way to plant bulbs is to put your trowel away, especially if you are planting lots of them, and get a bulb auger instead. This is a drill bit that you attach to a power drill that makes the job of planting bulbs super simple and so much faster as it literally lets you drill each hole in seconds.

Choose from long-shafted ones that let you plant bulbs standing up, or short-shafted ones that mean you do the job kneeling down. The best way to use them is to drill the hole, lift out the loosened soil and make a pile next to the hole. Once the hole is deep enough, pop a plant or a bulb in the bottom (pointy side up) and refill with the loose soil.

Find out more tips on how to plant bulbs if you don't have a power drill or simply want to do it the more traditional way.

The thing we most love about bulbs is that you forget you've planted them, then up they pop like magic. Now you have all the ideas you need for unusual bulbs to plant in fall, don't forget it's also a good time for browsing plant catalogs for the best summer bulbs too, especially if you love lilies, dahlias and agapanthus - and who doesn't?

For gardeners who live in an area where deer are common, finding new ways to keep garden plants safe from damage is an ongoing task. Although cute to see and observe, it's no secret that deer who are particularly hungry find many bright flowers and foliage tempting to munch on.

The good news is that if you're trying to keep deer away from plants, there are lots of deer-resistant plants to choose from. These are plants that either deer aren't tempted to eat or plants that can handle damage from wildlife and will easily bounce back. Luckily, this means that even if there are lots of deer in your local area, you can create a thriving garden that won't suffer badly from the presence of deer.

When it comes to planning your spring garden, it's important to know which spring bulbs are deer-resistant. But look no further, as I've spoken with garden experts who have chosen their top deer-resistant bulbs.

5 deer-resistant spring bulbs

Just because a plant is labelled as 'deer-resistant' doesn't mean deer won't munch at it, as these beautiful creatures will try to eat just about anything when looking for food. Nevertheless, there are some plants that are less likely to be targeted and will bounce back quickly after being munched on. Here are five deer-resistant bulbs to plant for spring.

1. Daffodils

For many gardeners, daffodils indicate the first sign of spring, as these yellow classics come out as early as February. They can be grown across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8 and are a great option if you want to deter not only deer, but also rodents, rabbits and other wildlife that may cause damage in your yard.

'Daffodils contain a bitter alkaloid called lycorine, making them unpalatable to deer,' says horticulture and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'With over 30,000 kinds of daffodils, there is a daffodil for every garden, and by planting bulbs that flower in succession, you can enjoy the sunny flowers for months,' she adds.

You can plant daffodil bulbs in fall before the first frost of the season and watch the yellow blooms come out early in the spring season. It's also key to deadhead daffodils once the flowers have become spent and cut daffodils back once the green stems have turned yellow so that they can make a strong return in the following spring.

Explore different daffodil bulbs at Nature Hills.

2. Hyacinths

An excellent choice for those wanting to create impressive spring planters, hyacinths are bell-shaped flowers that come in a wide range of colors, from white, to deep purple, pink and blue.

'Hyacinths produce calcium oxalate, which is toxic at high concentrations for deer,' explains Peggy. 'Hyacinths also have a strong smell that deters deer. That said, hyacinths still manage to produce a delightful perfume for people,' she adds.

It you're keen to create a fragrant garden, try planting hyacinth bulbs to enjoy their soft and floral smell. You can also grow hyacinth bulbs in containers, making them good plants to make your patio smell nice.

Hyacinths can be grown in US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and bulbs should be planted in fall. If you want to enjoy them through winter, you can even grow them indoors as one of the best bulbs for Christmas flowering.

Find hyacinth bulbs at Nature Hills to grow at home.

3. Snowdrops

Another early-spring flowerer, and one that often pops up right at the end of the winter season, snowdrops are a classic that have been long-loved by gardeners. There are so many types of snowdrops to grow, each with unique flower shapes and patterns.

'Snowdrops also contain a bitter alkaloid called lycorine, which makes them unpalatable to deer,' says Peggy. 'A true harbinger of spring, snowdrops are one of the first precious flowers to bloom each spring,' she adds.

You can plant snowdrop bulbs in fall and winter, or you can plant snowdrops 'in the green' to encourage bumper blooms - a process of planting bulbs after they have flowered but still with green foliage in mid-to-late-spring.

Snowdrops are hardy across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 7 and are unlikely to be damaged by wandering deer in your yard.

Shop for snowdrops online to plant in fall, like these snowdrop bulbs from Amazon.

4. Glory of the snow

If you look forward to seeing the first spring blooms poke out from the snow, glory of the snow is a must for your spring garden. These star-shaped, blue-purple blooms get their name from the fact that they emerge between March and April when snow is still present in some places.

'Don't let their diminutive size fool you; these low-growing bulbs are powerhouses in deer-resistant design,' says Ben McInerney, a landscape gardener. 'I've employed glory of the snow to create what I call 'protective carpets' beneath deciduous trees and shrubs. In a woodland garden restoration project, we used these bulbs to establish a dense ground cover that not only deterred deer but also suppressed weed growth and provided early spring color,' he adds.

These charming blooms are not appealing to deer and tend to be left alone by them. They're also a good spring flower for part-shade and will grow well as ground cover beneath trees, as Ben notes.

Grow glory of the snow across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 with these glory of the snow bulbs from Amazon.

5. Crown imperial

Among one of the best spring bulbs to plant in fall is crown imperial. This is a type of fritillaria flower that has striking yellow and orange bell-shaped blooms growing on a long stem with tufting foliage.

'With their imposing stature and strong odor, crown imperials are the commanding generals in the deer-resistant army. I've used these striking plants to establish 'deer-free zones' within larger landscapes,' says Ben. 'In a public park project, we created focal points with crown imperials, surrounded by more delicate plantings. The result was a series of protected garden rooms that remained untouched by deer throughout the season,' he adds.

These flowers give off a musky smell that keeps not only deer away, but also repels rodents and other small animals. As Ben mentions, it can be effective to create a resistant border with crown imperial plants - plus, they put on an impressive display when planted en masse.

You can grow crown imperial across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8 and can find crown imperial bulbs on Amazon.

FAQs

How can I make my yard deer-resistant?

To create an effective deer-resistant backyard, you need to take on board a number of strategies. This means not only opting for deer-resistant bulbs, but also other types of plants and even using things like fencing to keep deer out.

'I've developed a layered approach that combines bulbs with deer-resistant shrubs, trees, and perennials to create a year-round defense system. This strategy not only protects the garden but also creates a dynamic, ever-changing landscape that is a delight to see,' says Ben McInerney, a landscape gardener.

'Deer-resistant bulbs have been a wonderful way for gardeners to enjoy spring bulbs without worry,' says horticulture and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. Ensuring you have a mix of these deer-resistant bulbs will strengthen the resilience of your yard and allow it to bounce back from any damage caused by deer.

The added bonus is that many of these bulbs are also mouse-repellent plants and squirrel-repellent plants, so will further protect your spring garden from wildlife damage.

The time comes every late summer or early fall when attention turns to buying spring bulbs to provide those beautiful and inspirational early blooms next year. The catalogues and websites are packed with bulbs of all sizes, shapes, colors, and textures to tantalize gardeners and persuade them to add them to their gardens.

There will be thousands of potential spring bulbs to choose between, from classic favorites to new varieties. While it may be exciting, it can also be fraught with potential banana skins. The sheer range of choices means it can be easy to make impulsive decisions that don’t always turn out as originally intended.

With planning and careful selection, you can craft a glorious and long-flowering display of bulbs. Having planted bulbs in large quantities for displays in public gardens over the years, I have identified some key points to consider to aid you in being selective when ordering bulbs.

6 tips to help you order bulbs

If you order bulbs online, or in garden centers or nurseries, the temptation to buy everything can be hard to resist. However, it does pay to put some thought into ordering flower bulbs. Here are some tips I picked up as a professional gardener that may help you when putting together a spring bulb order.

1. Pick bulbs to suit the space

There is a huge selection of spring bulbs to plant in fall, including the ever-popular snowdrops, daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, and many more. It can be easy to get carried away, but any backyard ideas for bulb planting will be dictated by the space you have.

The size and light levels will impact ordering flower bulbs - make sure that bulbs are ideal for the conditions and that any numbers are suitable for the size of the space. Packing bulbs together, planting them in sodden areas, or putting sun-loving bulbs in shadier spots will impact their growth and potential blooms.

Consider the size of your borders and the topography of your space to pick blooms that will work fabulously. If you are short of space or do container gardening, there are still many options, including planting miniature bulbs and dwarf varieties of alliums, hyacinths, and snowdrops.

2. Consider the style of planting

What do you want to achieve through your bulb planting? There may be set ideas in mind, or inspiration picked up from social media or magazines. Bulbs can fit into many garden styles and the look and feel of your yard, along with your aspirations, will affect the type and number of bulbs you order.

Spring bulbs are often planted in flower beds and borders to create a cottage garden feel. Bulbs can be planted in drifts or swathes through the border. Alternatively, bulbs can be planted in blocks for a dramatic effect. Or bulbs can be planted in lawns.

Typically, bulbs are planted in groups together for the best effect and the smaller the bulb the more are needed to make a dramatic display. As bulbs are often planted in groups of 3-6 or more, and you may need between five and 15 per square foot to make an impact, depending on the size of the bulb, the amount you need to order can add up.

I worked in a historic garden where we planted an intricate display of over 4,500 hyacinths, daffodils, and tulips. The bulbs were packed together around 4-6 inches apart. While this is not a typical backyard bulb-planting scheme, it was a fantastic annual display. To achieve a similar feel at home, plant mass clumps of two or three colors of bulbs throughout beds or borders.

3. Mix up the blooming times

The different kinds of spring bulbs to plant mean you can mix and match to give yourself a long season of flowers and color to enjoy. This display can start in February and dazzle through to the early summer, though the exact time will depend on your climate and US hardiness zone.

For example, a long display can start with snowdrops, early crocuses and winter aconites, followed by daffodils, hyacinths, fritillaries and tulips. The season can end with alliums and camassias.

If you are ordering daffodils or tulips, select early, mid, and late types so you can enjoy their blooms for as long as possible. You can have a long blooming display both in smaller borders and pots by lasagna planting your bulbs in layers, where the larger and later bulbs are planted underneath earlier, smaller ones, so they flower in succession for a long-lasting effect.

4. Combine bulbs for a great mash-up

Height, color, and texture, there is such a choice when it comes to bulbs. It is not just the flowers, there are also bulbs with variegated foliage to consider. There are many opportunities to combine bulbs for a beautiful effect. While it is always sensible to put taller bulbs towards the back of borders and shorter ones front and center so they can be enjoyed, the sheer amount of options does allow for lots of creativity.

There are lots of distinctive varieties of classic spring bulbs. For example, there is narcissus in different colors and with various styles of their distinctive trumpet, tulip types that have ruffled petals or peony-like blooms - such as the Double Surprise tulip, available at Nature Hills - and allium varieties that can feature large soccer-ball-sized blooms or stems towering at four feet high.

It is your space and your choice. You can go for a complementary yellow and purple color combination that can be achieved with daffodils and alliums, with both coming in various shades. Or, for something a little bit different, darker-coloured varieties of tulips and hyacinths can make a dramatic effect either planted together or combined with bright pops of color courtesy of pink or white bulbs.

5. Mix annual and perennial bulbs

Many popular spring bulbs are perennials, including daffodils, alliums, crocus, camassia, and irises. Planting these allows you to enjoy their blooms for years, especially as they will multiply over time.

Tulips and hyacinths are treated as annuals by growers. They put on a great show in the first year, though there are no guarantees for repeat displays in future years. When I worked as a professional gardener, those two plants were always re-ordered and replanted annually to guarantee a great display of blooms for visitors to enjoy.

When you order bulbs each year, it may not be necessary to spend money on annually planting perennial bulbs in the fall. Keep a close eye on their performance to see if they are waning, or if there are gaps you’d ideally fill with more perennial bulbs. However, be prepared to order annual bulbs each year to be confident you’ll get the display you want.

6. Buy from a reputable supplier

To help you plan your displays and get inspired, you can look widely at magazines, websites, and social media. However, when it comes to actually ordering your bulbs, always shop with a reputable supplier. A single retailer may not have all the bulbs you want, especially if you are after some more unique varieties, but there is nothing wrong with shopping around and getting bulbs from multiple suppliers.

The important fact is that reputable suppliers will send out large and healthy bulbs. While cheap bulbs may be tempting, there is always the risk of getting small and poor-quality bulbs - with these there is less guarantee of a strong display, or the bulbs may not bloom at all. Large and established suppliers will also have certified disease-free bulbs, eliminating any risk of introducing issues into your backyard.

FAQs

When should I buy garden bulbs?

Spring bulbs are bought in late summer and early fall, to plant from September to November. Plant bulbs in pots at the same time as they are planted in the ground. You can plant bulbs as late as January, however, there is no guarantee of a spring display and any blooms will be later than bulbs planted in the fall. Summer bulbs are best purchased in spring to plant once the frosts have ended and the weather has warmed.

Store bulbs somewhere cool, dry, and well-ventilated after receiving them to ensure they remain in the best condition ready for planting. Open the packing boxes to allow air circulation around the bulbs to prevent rotting and ensure they are well away from mice or other rodents that may munch on the bulbs.

Elephant garlic produces large bulbs and cloves with a milder flavor than traditional garlic, and a hint of leeks or onions. Each bulb can give up to six cloves and elephant garlic offers a free second harvest in the shape of tasty scapes in early summer.

The plants need a long growing season to split into the sought-after cloves, needing to be planted in fall to give you a great harvest of baseball-sized bulbs come mid-to-late summer.

If you are new to growing elephant garlic, it may be tricky to know when the right time is to harvest the crop. Discover when and how to harvest elephant garlic together with how to cure and store the crop so you can enjoy your homegrown bulbs for many months.

How to tell when elephant garlic is ready to harvest

To help you understand when it is time to harvest elephant garlic, we look at the signs that show the moment is right and explain how to harvest the crop safely without damaging the large bulbs.

When to harvest elephant garlic

Elephant garlic is a type of garlic that has a long growing season and can take anywhere between 180-210 days to go from planting garlic in the fall to harvesting the bulbs the following summer. The crop can also be planted in the early spring and, in those circumstances, the days till you lift the bulbs drop down to around 90 days from planting.

Farmer Lee Jones, The Chef's Garden owner, explains: ‘Elephant garlic is typically harvested in late summer, mid-July or August, depending on your local climate and growing conditions.’ The conditions that may affect the garlic harvest, including the size of the bulbs as well as the date they are ready to be lifted, include your location, when they were planted, how the garlic was fertilized, and the weather conditions during the growing season.

It is relatively simple to tell when elephant garlic is ready to harvest and the proof is in the foliage. Once the foliage turns yellow or brown and starts to bend over in late summer, that is the sign to lift elephant garlic.

Elephant garlic will produce flower spikes in early summer known as scapes. These can be removed and eaten to focus energy back into developing the bulb. After flowering, once the foliage dies away at the end of the season from mid-July onwards, it is time to harvest elephant garlic.

How to harvest elephant garlic

Lifting the crop is a very simple task for any level of gardener, though there are approved ways to harvest garlic to avoid damaging the bulbs. Farmer Lee Jones recommends using a pitchfork to lift the bulbs, though it can also be done with alternative gardening tools, including a small shovel, trowel, or border fork.

When you harvest elephant garlic, firstly loosen the soil around the base of the crop. Then insert the tool away from the bulb and gently lever the bulb from the soil. Shake off the excess soil and then you can either use the bulb or cure it to store for longer periods.

As mentioned above, there are ways of attempting to lift elephant garlic to avoid. For example, Matthew Geldin, Head Farmer at Farmscape, warns: ‘Don't just yank on the stalk when you pull out your garlic, use a soil knife or trowel to pry the roots free as you pull to ensure a clean harvest.’ Pulling the stems by hand is a vegetable harvesting mistake that risks damaging the bulb.

The largest bulbs are best cured and stored. Smaller bulbs that did not have a long enough growing season to split into individual cloves, usually ones planted in the spring, will be a monobulb. These can be left to continue growing where they are or replanted again in the fall to become a bulb next year, as part of any crop rotation plan.

Shop harvesting tools

How to store elephant garlic

After harvesting, elephant garlic should be cured, or dried, as this can improve the flavor and storage life of the bulbs. Matthew Geldin says: ‘When you harvest garlic the outer skin of the head will be papery but there is still moisture in the cloves. The heads need to be stored in the shade for at least two weeks before you bring them inside to ensure a long shelf life.‘

Place the bulbs in a cool and dry place that has a good level of air circulation. They want to be spread out, not touching, and away from direct sunlight. The process can take 2-4 weeks, depending on the humidity.

After curing, the elephant garlic bulbs can be stored to be used as and when required for up to 10 months. Cloves can also be kept and planted again in the fall to provide a harvest next year.

How and when to harvest elephant garlic scapes

Garlic scapes are thick, spiral stems produced by the plants as they attempt to flower and go to seed. They tend to occur in June and can be cut off with a sharp knife as far back as their base.

Removing the edible scapes, which have a mild garlic flavor and can be eaten raw or cooked in many different ways, redirects the plant’s energy back into developing the bulb. The garlic scapes will not all appear at once, so regularly scour your kitchen garden to harvest the tasty free crop.

FAQs

Can you eat elephant garlic leaves?

Elephant garlic leaves are edible and have a milder taste than the bulbs. They can add flavor to many dishes or be used as a garnish.

You can replant bulbs from homegrown garlic to grow another crop next year, however, it is not advised to attempt to grow garlic from grocery store garlic. This is because you do not know the heritage of the garlic and there is no guarantee that it is virus-free. Seed garlic will be certified disease-free and comes with no risk of introducing diseases into your garden. You can see the range of seed garlic available at Burpee.

Growing onions is a task that requires patience, as it takes many months to go from planting the crop to getting that highly anticipated harvest of bulbs. Every grower wants those onions to be large and healthy when lifting the bulbs in summer or early fall.

Onions have always been a crop I have enjoyed growing. Over the years I have predominantly grown my onions from seed and been rewarded with a reliably good crop of sizeable bulbs.

Deciding between seeds and sets is one of the decisions you can make to help bring aspirations of growing large onions to reality. Which onions you grow and how you plant and care for them can make all the difference and reward you with a harvest of large onions.

5 tips for growing bigger onions

The following are all important factors that will help your onions grow big and healthy. I have grown onions in kitchen gardens for many years and have utilized these 5 tips that can help you grow big onion bulbs.

1. Pick a large variety

There are hundreds of different types of onions you can grow and choosing a variety known to produce big bulbs helps ensure good-sized onions come harvest time. Onions come in short-day, intermediate-day, and long-day types, these are determined by how much sunlight they need to start forming bulbs.

Long-day onions will start forming bulbs when there are 14 hours of light each day and are ideal for growing large bulbs. However, ensure any chosen variety is suited to your location and that it has time to produce lots of foliage before the bulbs start forming. An abundance of healthy foliage is critical to transferring the energy into developing a large bulb.

Shop large onion varieties

2. Grow from seed

Onions can be grown from seeds or sets. Seeds are cheaper and available in more different varieties, however sets are easier and more convenient for many gardeners. Growing onions from seed is the best way to get larger onions as it allows for a longer growing season and more time for the onions to develop and mature to a big size.

Plant onion seeds in late winter in a heated greenhouse or a heated propagator. The ideal time to plant the vegetable seeds is January or February, however, some growers with the luxury of LED grow lights and a heated environment will sow seeds as early as Boxing Day. It is best to sow the seeds indoors around 10 weeks before you reckon you can plant them outside.

If you can provide onion seeds with a consistent temperature of 50-60°F you should get good germination and you can transplant onion seedlings into the vegetable garden after the risk of frost ends in early spring.

Discover the range of onion seeds available at True Leaf Market

3. Provide ample room

If you aspire to grow large onions, give the bulbs adequate space to develop. Large onions need ample space and crowding the bulbs too close will restrict the growth.

When you plant onions in the vegetable garden, space each one 4-6 inches apart in rows 12-18 inches apart. The spacing gives each bulb room to grow and also provides room to run a garden hoe around plants to control weeds that may steal precious water and energy away from your onions.

Overcrowding is an onion-growing problem that causes plants to compete for nutrients and sunlight and means you will not get such a great harvest of bulbs.

4. Stay on top of watering

Consistent and regular watering is essential to develop large onion bulbs, so keep a close eye on when to water plants to ensure they get the irrigation they need to grow large.

Onions are a crop with shallow roots so can suffer quickly if you fail to keep the soil moist in summer. If the soil dries out, the onion can become stressed and that affects the bulb development. The soil wants to be moist but not waterlogged as that can lead to root rot.

Onions want one inch of water per week, rising to two inches per week during the bulbing phase. Use a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, to monitor the levels in the soil and make sure to water as required. Take care to water the base of the plants and not the foliage as that can increase the susceptibility to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew.

Mulching around plants will be beneficial as it can help retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds from growing among your onion crop.

5. Fertilize regularly

Fertilizing onions helps increase the size of the bulbs. The key times to fertilize onions come before planting, at the time of planting, and a few weeks after the onions have been planted.

Adding compost or organic matter to the planting site in the months before planting your onions will increase the soil fertility - and onions revel in growing in rich soil types. When you plant your onion crop outside in spring, a balanced fertilizer with an NPK of 10-10-10 is a great option to help bulbs establish a strong root system.

Once the onions have been planted for 3-4 weeks, side-dressing the crop with a high-nitrogen feed will promote foliage growth. Avoid over-fertilizing plants with high-nitrogen feeds later in the season, which can promote the development of leaves at the expense of the bulb.

Shop onion fertilizers

FAQs

How long does it take to grow large onions?

Onions typically take up to 100 days to mature when grown from seed and closer to 80 days if planted from sets. That is based on a season for an average onion grower. The earlier you sow the seeds indoors prolongs the season overall, so those who sow very early in winter and use grow lights and heated greenhouses to get ahead and grow giant onions for showing may have up to an eight or nine-month growing season.

After all the effort involved in growing bigger onions, store your crop properly so you can enjoy your harvest for as long as possible. Lay out the onions in a place dry and warm for a couple of weeks until the skins turn papery. Then store the onions in a net bag, after removing the roots and leaving only a couple of inches of stem.

If you've enjoyed a glorious display from your spring flowers and are now wondering how to store tulip bulbs, never fear. We are here with all the advice.

Tulips are a stalwart of spring with their satin-like petals and glorious spectrum of shades. But, they can be a little fussier than others. While crocuses, daffodils, and all the woodland bulbs (such as anemones, snowdrops, and bluebells) can happily stay in the ground all year round, tulips generally won't respond so well to this low-maintenance approach. If they do flower again (and some simply won't), the show will be much less spectacular than in their first year.

One option is to buy fresh tulip bulbs each year, but if you're planting tulips all over your garden, the cost can quickly stack up. A cheaper alternative is to lift them out of the soil once they've finished blooming, then replant the following fall. It may mean extra effort, but the results will be worth it. We've got all the tips on how to store tulip bulbs below.

How to store tulip bulbs in 5 simple steps

Learning when to plant tulips is easy. But knowing how to save tulip bulbs by storing them needn't be tricky. All it takes is a few simple steps to prepare for a stunning springtime display every year.

1. Deadhead your tulips once the flowers have gone over (unless they are species tulips, which should be encouraged to spread their seeds for more blooms). Don't be tempted to cut down the foliage, though. Keeping it intact will allow it to feed nutrients back down into the bulb. Wait until the leaves wither and turn yellow, around six weeks after flowering. When this happens, it's time to lift them.
2. Lift the bulbs carefully using a small handheld trowel or a garden fork, such as this model from Amazon, with the foliage still attached.
3. Once lifted, brush off any soil and remove any diseased or damaged bulbs.
4. 'You will need to store them somewhere dark and well-ventilated, in trays, a paper bag or a mesh bag, such as these from Amazon,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at H&G. 'The best thing you can do is keep them warm and dry, around 68˚F is ideal, but ensure a little air flow to avoid your bulbs rotting. I stored mine in an airing cupboard last year. If you are lucky enough to have one with a bit of extra space, it makes an ideal bulb storage solution. Check on them every now and then to ensure they are not rotting or looking withered.'
5. When they've dried out and at planting time, separate the bulbs. The big bulb is your main flowerer for next year. Plant this as you would a new bulb, in the fall. Smaller bulblets, which develop off the main stem, can be potted up. We explain how to do this below.

How to plant tulip bulblets or side bulbs

If you want to make the most of tulip bulblets, carefully remove and replant them in a tray of compost about 1in deep. Water them in and consign them to a sheltered, sunny part of the garden to develop strongly. 

Initially, leaves will be thin and grass-like, but bulblets will increase in size. It takes time and patience, but in their second fall they can be transferred to a well-prepared flower bed to become large enough to flower the following spring.

How long can you store tulip bulbs for?

Tulip bulbs can be stored for up to 12 months out of the soil, as long as conditions are suitable. It's also worth noting that bulbs often come with a 'best before' date, so bear this in mind too.

Before planting, check that they are firm and plump to the touch – not withered and brittle or soft and squidgy. If it's either of the latter, then it's time to buy some replacements. If you're on the hunt for fresh bulbs, this bulk pack of tulip bulbs from Walmart is great value. 

Can you leave tulip bulbs in pots?

From elaborate bulb lasagne ideas to simple window box displays, tulips are a brilliant addition to pots. But leaving them all year round is unlikely to result in a reoccurring show.

As they've had tougher growing conditions than bulbs grown straight in the ground, they are less likely to flower again. Many gardeners simply discard them once they've finished blooming, and buy new bulbs the following fall. However, there's no harm in trying your luck with lifting, storing, and replanting them for next year.

'As with many gardeners, I do tend to think of tulips as annuals. However, I will always lift and store any tulips planted in containers to see if I can get them to live on next year,' says Rachel Bull. 'I find it easier than when they are planted in the ground, as there is less digging to do, so it's worth it if you want to try for a second show the following year.'

FAQs

Can you leave tulip bulbs in the ground?

If digging up your tulip bulbs feels like a little too much work, there's no rule against leaving them be. But do be prepared for a less impressive show, which in most instances, is likely.

However, there are a few varieties of tulip that will generally re-flower even if left in the ground all year. Try dwarf species types such as Tulipa kaufmanniana, Tulipa fosteriana, and Tulipa greigii, and other ones that are suitable for naturalizing.

Do tulip bulbs naturalize?

Unlike snowdrops and daffodil bulbs, tulips aren't hugely renowned for their naturalizing abilities. But, some tulips are much better at it than others and are a lovely way to brighten up a lawn. These tend to be the Triumph and Darwin Hybrid types, as well as species tulips.

Help them on their way by planting them a little deeper than usual, ensuring growing conditions are good, leaving the foliage to die back naturally, and avoiding watering over them in summer. 

After the first season, you can also try fertilizing the soil in autumn with a low-nitrogen feed. In spring, you can fertilize them again, this time with a high-nitrogen feed. You can learn more about fertilizing plants in our guide.

Making the most out of your flowers and plants is vital, to avoid large bills at the garden center the following year. If you love flowers in your yard, you might like to know how to keep zinnias blooming and what to do with hollyhocks after flowering, so they re-flower next year.

Of all the spring bulbs, tulips are undoubtedly one of the most popular. As a sign that spring has sprung, tulips are famed for their color and shape, appearing attractive in flower beds and as cut flowers in a vase. There are many tulip types to pick from, yet one that deserves more attention is species tulips, otherwise known as botanical or wild tulips. 

'Species tulips are the smaller ancestors to the hybrid tulips we see all across the market today,' explains bulb expert Katie Sunderlage. While they might not be quite as showy as hybrid tulips, 'they are certainly more reliable,' continues Katie, 'blooming year after year.' Not only are they reliable bloomers, 'they also naturalize easily, forming large clumps and drifts where they have been planted.' 

Species tulips are found growing naturally in regions across southwestern Europe, North Africa and central Asia. Often, the flowers of species tulips are much smaller than their hybrid cousins, but this does not detract from their unique beauty. They are valued for their dainty, star-like flowers and unique colors. Species tulips are also 'one of the few types of tulips that are deer resistant,' Katie adds, which is often a concern for gardeners. Here, we discuss how to grow species tulips to add something unique to your plot this year. 

How to grow species tulips

Most, if not all, varieties of species tulips require sun and good drainage. Most species are extremely cold tolerant, found growing naturally in mountainous regions and so will grow well somewhere in US hardiness zones 3 to 7. 

Of greater concern is wet winters, which can cause the bulb to rot if drainage is poor. 'Just like normal tulips, they like to be dry in their dormant months,' says Vanessa Elms, horticulturist and owner of Old House Gardens.

Species tulips are well-suited to rock gardens, but if you do not have a gravel or rock garden in your yard, fear not, just remember to incorporate some sand or grit when you plant your bulbs. This is typically done in the fall, planting the bulbs at 2 to 3 times the depth of the bulb. It is important to find the right spot that will suit the species you are planting if you want the bulbs to naturalize. 'In the right location, with the right conditions, species tulips tend to be more perennial,' Vanessa adds. 

Bulbs can be fed during the growing season using something like this organic fertilizer from Walmart, which will help to increase their vigor. Allow the leaves to turn yellow before you cut back the foliage, which can take until mid-summer. 

Varieties of species tulips to grow

There are numerous options for those interested in planting species tulips, each with special characteristics and a distinctive look. Some have pointed flowers, while others have star-shaped, open flowers. Colors can range from crimson reds to soft pinks and whites. Here, we list some of our favorites. 

Tulipa sylvestris

Often found growing in woodland areas, Tulipa sylvestris is bright yellow in color, growing well in grass and in the light shade of large trees. One of the taller species tulips, it will grow up to 12 to 15 inches tall, although is often seen drooping, which looks particularly effective in cut flower displays. Tulipa sylvestris is hardy up to US hardiness zone 5, and if planted in the right spot, it will naturalize easily and thrive for decades. 

Tulipa sprengeri

The crimson and pointed flowers of Tulipa sprengeri will not disappoint. This is one of the later flowering tulips, often blooming into June, depending on location and climate. It is hardy up to US hardiness zone 8 and is one of the more shade-tolerant species tulips, doing well under large shrubs or on the edge of woodland gardens. 

Tulipa ferganica

Tulipa ferganica requires a good amount of heat and direct light to do well. The native range of this species is Central Asia, growing to around 6 to 8 inches tall. Drainage is key with this species, so avoid planting in damp soils. It will grow well in US hardiness zones 3 to 7. If planted in the right spot, Tulipa ferganica will naturalize, producing more and more egg-yolk yellow blooms every year. 

FAQs

Do species tulips come back year after year? 

Unlike modern hybrid tulips, species tulips can be thought of as perennial, and will flower every year, losing none of their vigour. Plant them in a position where you are happy for them to naturalize and spread. 

Consider planting other bulbs this year that will grow year after year, with little attention required. Many of the best miniature bulbs, for example, can be treated as perennials, with snowdrops and muscari providing an annual flower show in the yard. 

It's good news for avid gardeners needing some spring garden ideas as this year's world-famous Keukenhof floral event will debut its first-ever mixture of spring bulbs and flowering perennials to show how to create a display that flowers for longer.

The annual international showcase takes place at the Keukenhof botanical gardens just outside Amsterdam in Holland, and is celebrating its 75th jubilee this spring. Thanks to a collaboration between Dutch bulb suppliers, JUB Holland, and perennials specialists, Rijnbeek Perennials, visitors will see a magnificent display of Keukenhof's first-ever mixed meadow of bulbs and perennials.

For eight weeks each year, seven million spring bulbs are on display at Keukenhof to celebrate the Dutch floricultural sector. Tulips continue to be the main point of attraction for worldwide audiences but there is a whole range of bulbs to see, including daffodils and hyacinths.

JUB Holland has been exhibiting at Keukenhof since the first year, providing long-flowering bulb mixtures. Since 2019, it has been designing unique color combinations to display in its borders at the showcase.

This year, JUB Holland has teamed up with Rijnbeek Perennials to create a 235 meter-squared mixed flowering field of bulbs and perennials. Perennials have previously been challenging to include at Keukenhof because not many are flowering when the showcase opens in March each year. Now, they have been planted with bulbs to prolong the flowering display.

'Our collaboration aims to show how effective it is to combine perennials and bulbs. Once the bulbs have finished flowering, perennials take over and offer a spring display that lasts longer,' says Robbert Uittenbogaard, Director at JUB Holland. 'It's also about using varieties that come back for several years,' he adds.

A mixture for prolonged color and biodiversity

The joint border at Keukenhof will use naturalizing bulbs, including different tulips, crocus and scilla, and early-flowering perennials, including types of hellebores and violets.

'My designs for JUB are always naturalistic floral displays consisting of a multitude of varieties - sometimes over 40,' says Carien van Boxtel, the garden and landscape designer who works on JUB Holland's Keukenhof display each year. 'The planting team in Keukenhof use the lasagna style: bigger bulbs first and deepest and after a first covering the next layer is planted, finally the smallest bulbs in the top layer,' she adds.

The mixed meadow will show how bulbs and perennials can be used together to create a magnificent explosion of spring color with a prolonged flowering time. It likewise demonstrates an efficient planting method to increase biodiversity with lots of plants for pollinators.

'A succession of flowers is not only important for aesthetic reasons but also good for biodiversity. There is pollen and nectar available for even the earliest bees in spring when there is still not much to forage,' says Carien.

Keukenhof is open between 21 March and 12 May, where it is expected to welcome 1.5 million visitors.

Gardening often calls us to think ahead – to plan and prep for showtime in later seasons. Spring is one of the busiest times for this, and planting summer bulbs is one of the key tasks to tick off.

Choosing the best summer bulb is almost impossible, as there are so many gorgeous varieties. Dahlias are a firm favorite for many due to the wide range available – from the big, bold, and blousy to the pale and intricate pom-pom styles. Ranunculus flowers are another honorable mention with their candy-like colors. Then there are the loftier types that stand proud at the back of borders – the gladioli, crocosmia, and agapanthus.

Just like with spring bulbs, it's important to get your planting technique right if you want to enjoy summer bulbs in your yard. Below, you'll find practical tips from gardening experts, to help you grow a glorious display.

How to plant summer bulbs

Before you get started, it's essential to know when to plant summer bulbs. Unlike many spring bulbs, these plants won't tolerate frosts, so you'll need to wait until warmer weather has arrived.

Planting summer bulbs in the ground

Bulbs make the biggest impact when planted in clusters, rather than dotted singularly throughout a border. Consider their mature sizes to help you decide whether they should go at the front, middle, or back of your flower beds.

'Some of the tall summer bulbs, like dahlias, gladiolas, and canna lilies, may require staking, especially if they are not planted in full sun,' says Jessica Mercer of Plant Addicts. 'The best time to add these supports is at planting, so you know where the bulb is and don't accidentally pierce it.'

The planting process requires six simple steps:

1. Choose your bulbs: Jessica recommends buying the biggest bulbs possible, as bigger bulbs have more energy stored for flower and foliage production. 'When choosing a bulb to plant, make sure there is no mold on it,' says Autumn Hilliard-Knapp of Perfect Plants Nursery. She suggests slightly squeezing it, too, to make sure it is firm. 'If it is soft or mushy, it has gone bad,' she says.
2. Find the perfect spot: Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything, recommends choosing a sunny location, where the soil is nice and warm. Take the soil type into account, too. As Jessica highlights, bulbs need soil that drains well – 'Soggy soil can rot the bulbs and should be avoided.' 
3. Prepare the ground: Once you've found a suitable location, it's time to prepare the soil. Autumn says to loosen it up and remove any weeds and debris. 'Consider adding organic matter, such as compost, to improve soil fertility and drainage,' she says.
4. Dig holes at the right depth: 'When you order summer bulbs, they should arrive with specific planting depth instructions,' says Diane. 'Follow these instructions carefully to ensure your bulbs are planted at the correct depth and bulb orientation. When I first started growing dahlias, I ignored their specific guidelines and used the general rule of "plant bulbs five inches deep". As a result, all of my precious dahlia bulbs rotted in the ground!' 
5. Get planting: Autumn advises placing the bulbs with the pointed side facing upward. 'Leave adequate space between the bulbs, following the recommended spacing for each bulb species,' she says.
6. Finish up: Once planted, gently backfill the holes with soil and lightly tamp it down, Autumn says. 'Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil and initiate bulb growth.'

Top tip: 'Be mindful of pests,' warns Diane. 'Critters, like squirrels, love to dig up and gnaw on bulbs. If you have rodent pests in your garden, then you must protect your bulbs using various repellents and deterrents such as underground wire mesh cages (prevents diggers such as voles and gophers), above-ground cages (for squirrels), and sonic stakes (for all rodents).'

Planting summer bulbs in pots

Smaller varieties of summer bulbs make stunning additions to container gardens. But there are a few steps to follow to ensure your display is a success:

1. Select the right container: 'Choose a pot with drainage holes to avoid waterlogging,' says Autumn. Ensure it's large enough to accommodate the bulbs and allow room for root growth, she adds.
2. Use suitable soil: 'Fill the pot with a well-draining potting mix,' Autumn continues. 'Consider adding perlite or sand to improve drainage if needed.' You can buy organic perlite from Perfect Plants Nursery.
3. Consider planting depth and spacing: Just like when planting bulbs in borders, follow the recommended depths on the packet. 'For a lush pot overflowing with blossoms, leave just a slim gap between bulbs to prevent them from touching,' says Autumn. 
4. Finish up: 'Cover the bulbs with additional potting mix,' says Autumn. 'After planting, thoroughly water the pot to ensure the soil is evenly moist. Allow excess water to drain away.'

Ongoing care for summer bulbs

Once your bulbs are planted, there's not much maintenance to worry about.

Autumn recommends regular watering to keep the soil evenly moist. Adjust the frequency according to weather conditions and the specific needs of each bulb species, she says.

It's also worth keeping an eye out for pests, such as aphids, slugs, or snails, as the plants grow. 'Use organic insecticides if necessary and take precautions to prevent pest infestations, such as keeping the area clean and removing debris,' Autumn says.

Some summer bulbs benefit from deadheading. For instance, Rebecca Sears, a gardening expert from Ferry-Morse, recommends regularly removing faded dahlia flowers. Failing to do so can result in fewer flowers, and can also encourage pests and diseases, she notes.

FAQs

Do you need to lift summer bulbs in winter?

Most summer bulbs are tender plants. Some are tougher than others (such as crocosmia) so it's worth checking the hardiness of the varieties you have, if you want to enjoy them for another year.

If you live somewhere with mild but wet winters, Jessica Mercer of Plant Addicts recommends covering the tender bulbs once the foliage dies back in late fall. 'I've used newspapers, overturned pots, fern fronds, and wood chips to cover my dahlias, canna lilies, and calla lilies,' she says.

However, in colder climates with freezing winters, you may prefer to play it safe. Protect your plants from frost by digging up tender varieties and storing them somewhere dry and frost-free. You can then replant them in the spring.

What are the common problems to avoid when planting summer bulbs?

'Don't plant upside down,' says Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything. It will slow their growth and, in some cases, can prevent the bulbs from properly sprouting, she says. 

'If you are not able to tell which side goes up, plant the bulb sideways,' says Jessica Mercer of Plant Addicts.

Another top tip is to avoid planting them too early. 'If you've ordered summer bulbs and they have arrived too early to plant outdoors, try planting them in pots indoors until the weather is warm enough to transplant them outside,' Diane recommends. 'You can do this up to eight weeks before your planting date without too much concern.'

Finally, be careful not to overwater your bulbs, Diane says. 'You don't want your bulbs sitting in wet soil or else they may rot in the ground before they have a chance to grow.'

Spring is the perfect time to get other summer flowers underway, too – why not plant some of the best annual blooms, create a wildflower meadow, or start a cutting garden?

Caladiums make a statement with their large, luscious leaves, in striking colors of pink and green. While you can sometimes buy the plants in pots, bulbs are also available.

As tropical plants, these showy specimens need warmth and humidity to thrive. This means, in some climates, they're better suited to growing indoors, where they make fabulous houseplants. Either way, there are some key tips you need to know before you get planting – and that's where this guide will help.

When and how to plant caladium bulbs, according to the experts

Below, the plant experts share their top tips for growing caladiums, both indoors and in backyards. 

Need some bulbs, first? Try the 'Tropical Mix' caladiums, available at Burpee, for stunning patterns and hues.

When and how to plant caladium bulbs outdoors

Vladan Nikolic (Mr. Houseplant), highlights how caladiums don't tolerate cold temperatures. 'It’s best to plant them in spring, when the soil temperature is at least 65°F, and when the danger of the last frost is over,' he says. 'This could be anywhere from March to June. The exact timeline will depend on your hardiness zone and the weather conditions.'

'Prior to planting, observe the condition of the tubers,' advises Jessica Mercer of Plant Addicts. 'If they appear shriveled or dry, you can soak them for a few hours in warm water. Throw out any tubers that are mushy or rotting.'

Jessica also recommends inspecting the buds on each tuber. By removing the central bud with the tip of a knife, you'll encourage the growth of the secondary buds. As a result, the plant will grow smaller leaves but in larger quantities, providing a lush and full appearance, she says.

Your planting area may also need preparing. Jessica notes how caladiums grow best in rich, well-drained soil, so you might need to add compost to support strong growth.

'Plant the tubers in part shade to full sun depending on which variety you have. Older caladium varieties need a shady location to avoid sunburn, while newer varieties are much more sun tolerant,' she adds.

Once you've finished prepping, it's time to get planting.

Autumn Hilliard-Knapp of Perfect Plants Nursery recommends digging a hole approximately 2–3 times the size of the caladium bulb. 'The exact depth may vary depending on the bulb size, but a general guideline is to plant them about two inches deep.'

Proper spacing is important, too: Autumn advises planting them approximately 8–12 inches apart to allow sufficient room for growth and airflow. The growth buds should be pointed upward, notes Jessica.

Next, backfill the hole with soil, tamping it down lightly around the bulb, Autumn instructs. 'Water the area thoroughly after planting to settle the soil and provide moisture for the bulbs.' Finish with a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and suppress weeds.

'Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged,' Autumn adds. You can also use a balanced fertilizer during the growing season, Jessica says. Avoid products high in nitrogen, and space feedings about six weeks apart, she advises.

Top tip: For a head start, plant your bulbs indoors in early spring, then plant them outside when frosts have passed.

When and how to plant caladium bulbs indoors

If you don't live somewhere warm enough to grow caladiums outdoors, you can grow them as houseplants. Again, plant the bulbs in spring.

Vladan recommends choosing a container at least six inches deep, and wide enough for the bulb and root growth. Fill this with well-draining soil, he says. 'You can use store-bought potting mix and amend it with perlite or vermiculite to improve drainage and aeration.' 

You can buy organic vermiculite from Burpee.

Plant the bulbs 2–3 inches deep, Vladan continues. In terms of spacing, Autumn recommends planting them 6–8 inches apart.

'Place the potted bulbs near a window where they can receive sufficient light without direct sunlight,' Autumn says. 'Consider using a humidifier or placing a tray of water near the plants to increase humidity.' They thrive in warm temperatures between 70–85°F, she adds.

'Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water the plants whenever the top inch of soil feels dry,' Autumn says. She adds that you can also fertilize them lightly once the bulbs sprout, using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every 4–6 weeks during the growing season.

Caladiums grown indoors often drop their leaves as they approach dormancy during the colder months. At this point, you can cut the plants back. 'Keep the pot at temperatures of 70–75°F, ready for the next season,' Vladan says.

FAQs

Should you lift outdoor caladium bulbs in winter?

If you don't live somewhere that's warm year-round, you will need to lift and overwinter caladium bulbs planted outdoors before the first frost, similar to overwintering dahlias.

Vladan recommends storing the bulbs in trays of dry compost and placing them somewhere dry, dark, and frost-free. They can then be replanted in the spring.

What are some common problems when growing caladiums?

Nancy Awot-Traut, Burpee's horticulture expert, says, 'Caladiums are generally resistant to pests and diseases but can sometimes be susceptible to aphids, caterpillars, and slugs. Ensure proper care of your plant to prevent pests. You can also plant pest-repellent plants throughout your garden.'

'Another common problem is overwatering,' Nancy adds. 'While caladiums do enjoy damp soil, overwatering can lead to rot.' You should avoid watering when the bulbs are dormant, too, Vladan notes.

Caladiums are an effective way to bring a splash of color to an interior scheme. Why not complement them with some lime green houseplants or blue houseplants, for an even bolder look?

Forcing bulbs in water brings a touch of spring into our living spaces – despite wintry weather outdoors. Many of us are craving bright color during the colder, grayer months, so a jar of sweetly-scented hyacinths, daffodils, or other early blooms is a more than welcome sight. 

While forcing spring bulbs in pots of soil indoors is often a go-to approach, forcing bulbs in water has its benefits. 

Nastya Vasylchyshyna, a resident botany expert at Plantum, says, 'This growing method requires relatively few materials, little space, and minimal effort compared to the usual cultivation in soil.' It's also cleaner, due to not having to deal with a potting mix, she adds.

Plus, if you use a clear container, watching the roots grow is gratifying, for all ages. As Althea Wiles of Rose of Sharon Floral Design Studio highlights, 'Forcing bulbs in water can be an excellent educational activity for children to learn about plant development and care.'

How to force bulbs in water for a stunning display

With the following expert advice, you can enjoy an early dose of springtime cheer. It's easy with the right know-how.

Types of bulbs to force in water

'There’s a great variety of bulbous flowering plants you could grow in water,' says Nastya. 'Tulips, snowdrops, hyacinths, crocuses – anything goes, so long as their bulb can remain stable above the water line.'

Remember that stratification is a key step when growing most bulbs indoors. This is when they're kept somewhere cool and dark for some time – either in their glass containers or, if you don't have the space, in paper bags beforehand.

Anna Ohler, the owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery, says, 'Different bulbs have different chilling requirements, so be sure to check the specific needs of the bulbs you choose.' It averages 8–12 weeks, but can sometimes take longer, she adds. It's important to bear this in mind when planning your timings, as you may need to start chilling your bulbs in the fall for an early spring display. 'Neglecting to provide the necessary chilling can result in failed growth,' warns Autumn Hilliard-Knapp, a plant expert from Perfect Plants Nursery.

However, Nastya points out that amaryllises and paperwhites don't require stratification, so are particularly easy to grow in this way. In fact, they are popular choices for forcing in time for Christmas. You can also buy bulbs that have already been pre-chilled and are ready for forcing – prepared hyacinths are most commonly found.

The quality of your bulbs is important, whatever variety you choose. 'Select healthy, large bulbs from a reputable source,' Anna advises. Remember to check they feel firm and are free of mold and blemishes, too, before you add them to your container. Otherwise, they may not grow.

A step-by-step guide to forcing bulbs in water

Follow these expert tips for a beautiful display:

1. Prepare your container: Use a bowl or vase with no drainage holes, says Anna. 'Make sure it's clean.' A clear glass container will allow you to watch the roots grow, she adds. Nastya also notes that you can get hourglass-shaped vases specialized for bulb forcing.
2. Provide support: Next, you'll need to add support for the bulbs, Anna says. To do this, she suggests placing a layer of clean pebbles or stones at the bottom of the container. 'This will provide stability for the bulbs and help keep them above the water.' You won't need to do this in bulb-forcing vases, as the bulbs will sit snugly in the tops.
3. Add your bulbs: 'Place the bulbs on top of the pebbles, pointy side up,' Anna continues. 'You can fit multiple bulbs in the same container, as long as they don't touch each other.'
4. Carefully pour in water: 'Add enough water to the container to reach just below the base of the bulbs,' Anna says. 'The bulbs should not be sitting in water but should be close enough for the roots to grow down into it.' If the bulbs are constantly wet, they may rot. If you are using a bulb-forcing vase, add the water before your bulb, so that it stays dry.
5. Chill the bulbs, if needed: If you haven't already, and it's necessary for the type of bulbs you've chosen, you can now stratify your bulbs by placing the containers somewhere dark and cool (Anna suggests temperatures of around 40-48°F), for the appropriate amount of time. 'After the chilling period, you should start to see roots forming and the bulbs beginning to sprout. Once you see significant root growth and the shoots are about 2–3 inches tall, it's time to move the container,' Anna says.
6. Place the container in its final position: This needs to be somewhere bright. 'Avoid direct sunlight, as it can cause the flowers to wither quickly,' Anna says.
7. Maintain the water: 'Keep the water level consistent, ensuring it remains just below the base of the bulbs,' Anna advises. 'Replace the water if it becomes cloudy or has an odor.'

Shop the essentials for forcing bulbs in water

Extra tips for forcing bulbs in water

Choose your container carefully. Autumn points out that a common mistake is selecting a vase that is too shallow or narrow. 'Opt for a vase that provides enough depth and width for the bulbs to comfortably grow their roots,' she says. If you're growing lots of bulbs together, a tall container will help support their stems.

'Consider adding a few drops of liquid fertilizer or a small amount of charcoal to the water to promote healthy growth,' recommends Althea. 'Placing a few pieces of cinnamon stick or cloves near the bulbs can help deter mold formation and add a subtle, pleasant aroma to the surroundings,' she adds.

'Another helpful tactic is to occasionally rotate the container, to ensure even growth and stability in the growing process,' Althea notes. Like houseplants, indoor bulbs tend to grow toward the sun.

Remember that spring bulbs are toxic to pets, as well as humans, so keep them safely away from your four-legged friends and unsupervised children. It's best to wear gardening gloves when handling bulbs, too, as they can irritate the skin.

FAQs

Can you replant bulbs that you've forced in water?

'Forcing the bulbs in water usually makes them unable to flower again afterward,' says Nastya. This is because growing them in this way takes a lot of energy from the bulbs.

However, if you have the space outdoors, you can still try your luck by planting them in a border with well-draining soil, once frosts have passed. Leave the foliage to die back naturally. You may be surprised by new blooms in a couple of years' time. 

How long will bulbs forced in water take to flower?

Once they've completed their chilling period and are moved to a brighter location, bulbs growing in water won't take long to bloom. It can take up to around a month, but sometimes they'll flower in as little as two weeks.

Learning how to force bulbs in water is just one way to look ahead to warmer days and celebrate a seasonal change. Even in late winter, there are plenty of jobs you can get on with to prepare the garden for spring. Plus, now's a great time to start growing flowers from seeds indoors.

Q: I planted lots of spring bulbs in borders and pots last fall, including daffodils and tulips. I am looking forward to them blooming, but recently heard that they are poisonous for pets. I have a dog, so I’m a bit concerned – what precautions do I need to take?

A: With their glorious colors and promise of warmer days ahead, it’s no surprise that spring bulbs are loved by many – myself included. However, as pretty as they may be, bulbs are poisonous plants for dogs and cats. This means measures must be taken to keep pets safe, whether you’ve planted your bulbs in your backyard or are forcing them indoors for an early display.

The dangers of spring bulbs

All spring bulbs can be a health risk for four-legged friends. Commonly grown examples include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, bluebells, hyacinths, irises, and snowdrops. 

All parts of the plants contain toxins, but these are concentrated in the bulbs, says Dr. Ray Spragley of Zen Dog Veterinary Care. Dr. Sabrina Kong, a senior veterinary contributor at WeLoveDoodles, says, 'Pets are naturally curious, or sometimes just plain bored, and they might dig up and chew on these bulbs.' The consequences can be serious. 

‘Spring bulbs may cause gastrointestinal discomfort, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, and ulceration of a pet’s mouth,’ Ray warns. ‘Daffodils are especially toxic because they can cause central nervous system depression, low blood pressure, and seizures,’ he adds.

In severe cases, poisoning from spring bulbs can lead to breathing and heart problems, and can even be fatal. 'If you ever think your pet has eaten something toxic, get them to the vet right away,' says Sabrina. 'Quick action can make a huge difference.'

Top tip: Lilies are super toxic, especially to cats, warns Sabrina. 'Even a little bit can cause kidney failure.'

Keeping your pets safe

'It’s important to be proactive to ensure your pet’s safety,' says Rebecca Sears, a gardening expert from Ferry-Morse. She advises keeping pets away from areas where spring bulbs are planted by installing barriers, such as dog-proof fencing. 

'To create a truly safe environment for your pets, consider planting more pet-friendly options instead of bulbs,' Rebecca adds. For instance, camellias, nasturtiums, rosemary, snapdragons, and roses are considered non-toxic to cats and dogs – and all are just as beautiful (albeit some flowering a little later).

Bulbs planted indoors, such as hyacinths or amaryllis, should be kept well out of reach of animals, too. Indoor cyclamen are also a danger if ingested. And don't forget about bulbs in backyard storage – Ray highlights how these should also be kept securely away from your pets.

FAQs

Are spring bulbs toxic to humans?

Yes, bulbs are toxic to humans as well as pets, and shouldn’t be ingested. Keep them away from children.

Some bulbs, such as hyacinths, can also irritate the skin when touched, so wear gloves when planting them. These patterned gardening gloves from Terrain are both pretty and practical.  

Are spring flowers in a vase dangerous to pets?

Bunches of daffodils and tulips are lovely ways to brighten our home, but it’s important to remember that all parts of spring bulbs are poisonous to pets. Keep your cats and dogs away from them, and don’t let them drink the water from the vase.

As well as being mindful of the potential dangers in your spring garden, there are other tips to take on board for a cat- and dog-friendly backyard. 

Following organic gardening practices (free from toxic fertilizers and pesticides) and installing backyard fences to prevent access to busy roads are two other ways to help keep your furry companions safe. 

Hyacinths are perennial bulbs celebrated for their bright color, fragrance and attractive, bell-shaped flowers. Considered one of the best spring bulbs to plant, the hyacinth is a harbinger of warmer spring days and with a heavenly scent that is unrivaled in the garden. 

When thinking about planting combinations and ideas for your backyard, there are many different varieties of hyacinth to choose from, ranging from pure whites to royal blues to deep reds. If you would prefer something showy this year, and none of these colors appeal, fear not, as surely a Barbie pink display will turn heads. There are pink varieties available to buy from garden stores, such as this Cotton Candy Hyacinth Mix from Walmart. Hyacinths, it seems, are anything but subdued. 

Importantly, it is not too late to plant hyacinths. Whilst it is recommended to plant in fall, planting in winter - so long as the bulbs are healthy - will still give you a bounty of blooms. Just remember that planting in winter will result in later flowering bulbs. 

Whilst it is perfectly fine to plant hyacinth bulbs directly into the garden or yard, by using a spare container or planter for your bulbs, you'll be able to create a display to position on your front porch, or move it around to brighten up any colorless spot.

Grow hycainth bulbs in containers

Follow our advice and simple steps to grow hyacinth bulbs in containers and enjoy a show stopping spring display this year. 

Things to consider when growing hyacinth bulbs in a container

Hyacinths trace their origins to the eastern Mediterranean and southern Turkey. Over the last two hundred years, they have become popular plants to grow and hyacinth breeding has created the vast array of colors we can find today. 

Growing hyacinths in pots is a great option to create a dramatic display whether you have a large backyard or you have limited outside space. Any container will do, but remember that hyacinth bulbs are slightly larger than other popular bulbs, such as daffodil bulbs or tulip bulbs. 

'Hyacinth orientalis is a pretty big bulb,' says Megan Foster, perennial and bulb expert for American Meadows. 'The rule of thumb is to dig deep enough so that the bulb in the hole will sit about three times deeper than the size of the bulb.' This is important to remember when selecting your container, and any smaller pots or planters are perhaps better used for smaller bulbs. Planting your bulbs down deeper is also a way to stop squirrels from digging up bulbs.

If your backyard is damp and suffers from poor drainage, it is recommended to use 'pots for your bulbs,' Megan says, as bulbs can 'rot if sitting too long in saturated soil.' Read our guidelines below on how to successfully grow bulbs in a container.  

How to plant hyacinth bulbs in a container

• Ensure that your planter or container has a drainage hole to allow water to drain away.
• Using old, broken bits of stone or pot, cover the drainage hole to prevent a soil blockage that would prevent water from draining away. 
• 'The ideal soil would drain freely,' says Vanessa Elms, horticulturist and owner of Old House Gardens. 'We do not recommend any potting soil that contains moisture retention as it can lead to bulb rot.'  
• Remember to plant your bulbs three times the depth of the bulb, covering them with your free-draining potting soil mix.  
• Place your container in a 'cool, sunny area,' Vanessa says. Avoid placing the container in a shaded location as this will not encourage growth. 
• Water your container during mild weather. Do not let the container dry out. 
• 'If you are growing hyacinths in a pot, fertilizing is not necessary as the bulb has what it needs to bloom,' Vanessa continues. 
• After flowering, in the springtime, Vanessa recommends 'planting the bulbs in the garden to let mother nature take care of them.' Ensure you plant the bulbs at a depth three times the size of the bulb, and maybe, just maybe, they might return and rebloom next year.    

FAQs

When should I plant hyacinth bulbs?

It is recommended to plant hyacinth bulbs in the fall, however, planting bulbs in winter will still yield stunning flowers. Remember that the later you plant your bulbs, the later in the year they will flower. If planting bulbs in the winter, always check the quality and health of the bulbs. A firm, plump bulb is what you want, with no mold or signs of damage. 

Planting hyacinth bulbs in containers is a great space-saving option that will not disappoint, with bright blooms and a heavenly fragrance creating the perfect spring display. Consider our guide on how to deadhead and care for hyacinths to ensure that your spring show is the best it can be. 

Learning how to stop squirrels digging up bulbs can feel like a thankless and never ending task.

Some of these tips are for you to bear in mind when the time comes to plant bulbs. But if they're already in the ground, then you can look at some of the natural deterrents which will put squirrels off once they've been planted.

'Before I really started making a conscious effort to keep squirrels away from my bulbs, I'd find, to my dismay, that the number of bulbs which popped up were far less than the amount I'd planted the previous season,' says Teresa Conway deputy gardens editor at Homes & Gardens.

Rest assured, knowing how to get rid of squirrels in your backyard isn't your only option if you want to protect your bulbs.

Expert tips on how to stop squirrels digging up bulbs

If you've gone to the effort of learning how to plant bulbs, you'll want to use some of these simple methods to stop squirrels digging them up.

1. Delay your bulb planting times

Most gardeners will start planting their spring bulbs in fall, when the cooler weather is beginning, but before the ground is too cold and hard. 

Unfortunately, fall is also the prime time of year when squirrels really get digging, as they're gathering for winter hibernation and might be feeding too. They only begin to quieten down by late October. 

Luckily, it's possible to delay the planting time of some bulbs. If you're planting allium bulbs or other hardier summer varieties like crocosmia, these can be planted slightly later in October, and if you're planting tulip bulbs, you can wait as late as November to get them in the ground. 

2. Plant your bulbs at the proper depth

Most squirrels won't dig further than a few inches beneath the soil, so if your bulbs are planted at 6-8in deep, it's more likely the squirrels won't reach them. 

Using a long handled bulb planter makes the job of planting bulbs to this depth that much easier. 

3. Make a barrier to cover the bulb planting area 

Making the soil more difficult for squirrels to dig into is a favored tactic, and there are plenty of different options, whether you're planting bulbs straight in the ground or in pots as part of your spring planter ideas. 

'My favorite method of keeping squirrels out of potted plants is to add a layer of gravel to the top of the soil. Not only does it keep squirrels away but it covers unsightly bare-soil,' says Teresa Conway. Try this 5 Pound Decorative Rocks for Plants at Walmart.

Many people vouch for using chicken wire or hardware cloth (a similar metal mesh but with a smaller grid pattern) to cover the planting area or the top of the pot or planter box. 

Simply lay the chicken wire onto the soil's surface, cover with a thin layer of mulch and stake it down with bricks to keep in place. Your bulb stems will grow through the holes, but the bulbs themselves won't be dug up. You can even add strips of foil into your mulch, as squirrels and rodents hate the feeling of foil in their teeth.

Another more intensive method is to use a bulb planting basket like this 12 in. Devon Hanging Basket with AquaSav Coconut Liner at The Home Depot, the top of which is covered with chicken wire. You'll need to dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the basket for this though. 

When choosing a barrier type, just make sure the bulbs will still be able to grow through any material you lay down. 

4. Use natural deterrents to make digging unpleasant for squirrels

There are plenty of natural squirrel repellents, although some seem to work more universally than others when you're trying to stop them digging up bulbs. 

Using sharp materials like crushed oyster shells, crushed stones or gravel can do wonders to stop squirrels from digging up bulbs. You can either scatter this onto the surface of the soil, or actively place it in the hole where your bulbs are planted too.  

• Squirrels turn their noses up at the distinct aroma of coffee grounds, making it an obvious choice to scatter on the surface of the soil where you have planted your bulbs.
• The tangy smell of white pepper powder, garlic powder, cayenne powder and black pepper are all naturally unpleasant to a squirrel. Spice also keeps squirrels away from bird feeders. However, the potential issue here is that squirrels may rub their eyes after digging through these, which might not be pleasant for them.
• Similarly, sweet smells like peppermint essential oil will deter squirrels. You can grow mint to elicit this smell, or even soak cotton balls in peppermint oil and place them near to the bulbs planted in your yard.
• As well as being used for fertilizing plants, blood meal is sometimes suggested as a squirrel deterrent because of its high ammonia content – although some gardeners say it seems to do the opposite and attract them. Blood meal also has to stay dry to act as a deterrent. 

5. Plant strategically by choosing bulbs that squirrels don't like

While you'd be forgiven for thinking squirrels eat every type of bulb, there are actually a few favorites they tend to go for: tulip bulbs are the most common, along with crocus bulbs. 

In comparison, some types of plants can be repellent to squirrels, which means they should be your new faves when planning your planting. 

• Daffodils have a strong smell that squirrels don't tend to like – and as hardy reliable bloomers, daffodils can easily fill an area of your yard.  
• Alliums as a genus are not squirrel friendly thanks to their scent. Planting onions, leeks, scallions and garlic will all help repel squirrels around more tempting flowers and bulbs.
• Snowdrops are an unexpectedly repellent plant. Because they're mildly toxic (particularly the bulbs), squirrels and other pests tend to stay away. 
• Hyacinths (H. orientalis) have a similar toxicity that stops squirrels from being interested.  

As well as disliked bulbs, use companion planting to discourage squirrels from digging up your bulbs. Inter-plant your tulips and crocuses with marigolds, mint and nasturtiums to keep them at bay. 

FAQs

Why do squirrels dig for bulbs in potted plants?

If your container gardening ideas are getting trashed each year, you may have noticed that it's squirrels that are to blame. But why?

Well, squirrels like to stash their food in preparation for the winter, and hiding it in the ground keeps it safe from birds. Planters full of soft compost are tempting storage solutions as they are so easy to dig in.

They also love the space that bulbs create in the soil. Once the bulb is out, it's the perfect size for storing all their scavenged nuts. 

Try placing large pebbles around the top of the soil to deter them from digging – it looks attractive too.

If you're concerned about pests destroying your prize-plants then take a look at our guide on how to keep deer away from plants and how to keep squirrels away from fruit trees.

Q: I have a couple of bags of spring bulbs in my shed that I forgot to plant in the fall. It's now January – is it worth planting them anyway?

A: While most gardeners plant their daffodils, tulips, and other hardy spring bulbs between September and November, getting them in the ground a few months later can still give you a stunning display.

However, there are a few tips to bear in mind when going to plant bulbs in January to increase your chances of success.

3 tips for planting bulbs in January

Planting bulbs in the fall garden can give you more reliable results. However, there are actually a few benefits of planting some spring bulbs in January, highlights Jen McDonald, a co-founder of Garden Girls.

If you're shopping for new bulbs, she notes how you may score a deal in January as garden centers try to clear their inventory. And, if you're planting tulips, choosing to plant bulbs in January can help avoid tulip fire, she adds. This is a fungal disease that often plagues them when planted too early, when bulbs sit in warm and soggy soil.

1. Inspect your bulbs before planting them

Forgotten bulbs that have been kept in their original packaging can be susceptible to turning moldy, especially if they've been somewhere that's damp and warm.

Moldy bulbs won't flower successfully, so always check before you plant them to save wasting your time. They should be firm, so get rid of any that feel mushy.

Ideally, store bulbs somewhere dry, dark, and cool, out of plastic packaging. Paper bags (like these from Walmart) or cardboard or wooden boxes are good storage options.

2. Make sure the soil is suitable

The most important thing is being able to work with the ground. In colder climates, the ground can be frozen or too wet in January, which will make it challenging.

If the soil in your garden isn't suitable, you could plant bulbs in containers instead. Add a few handfuls of grit to the potting mixture to improve drainage, lift them onto pot feet (such as these UFelice ones from Amazon), and keep them somewhere sheltered, such as on your porch or next to a wall, to protect them from inclement weather.

Top tip: Remember that bulbs prefer well-draining soil. 'You can improve drainage by adding lighter-weight materials like peat moss or coco coir,' suggests Anna Ohler, the owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery.

Alternatively, you can stop soil freezing in winter by mulching and adding a layer organic material to retain heat.

3. Protect them from the cold

Spring bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, and crocuses are hardy and can be planted in colder climates, says Anna. However, they can appreciate a bit of protection if you're planting them in midwinter.

If temperatures are expected to drop below freezing after planting, protect plants from frost by covering the beds with a layer of mulch or straw to provide insulation, Anna recommends.

Bulbs planted in pots can also be protected from winter cold by wrapping them in burlap (from Amazon), a frost cloth, or bubble wrap.

Shop bulb planting tools

FAQs

When will spring bulbs planted in January flower?

Bulbs planted in January can be expected to flower a little later than those planted in the fall. However, they will still make an appearance during the mid-late spring months.

Can you plant snowdrops in January?

Snowdrops can be slightly more challenging to grow from bulbs, even when planted in the fall. If yours have been in storage until January, they have probably dried out and will no longer be viable for planting. Instead, wait another month or so and then plant snowdrops 'in the green' (with established leaves) from local nurseries. They should come back year after year, provided the squirrels don't get to them.

Bear in mind choosing to plant bulbs in January may result in some not blooming, leaving you with foliage rather than flowers, as Jen McDonald points out. However, she advises to take the chance and plant them anyway; 'Those bulbs certainly won’t bloom in the garden shed.'

Any gaps in your spring garden display can be filled with flowering bulbs bought from a local nursery when spring arrives. And remember, some bulbs planted in the ground – particularly daffodils and crocuses – are likely to flower successfully next year, even if the results are a little disappointing this time round. Nevertheless, it's worth getting ahead next year by ordering bulbs with plenty of time for planting.

The sight of spring bulbs – their glowing colors and satin-like petals – fills me with joy every year. Whether scattered in borders or bursting from pots, they herald the near end of winter. And, after months of cold and gray, this can feel quite a relief. 

Although I do love a daffodil (especially if it's highly fragranced, such as Narcissus 'Bridal Crown'), tulips are my favorite type of spring bulb. And recently, I discovered that they can be grown indoors, similar to forcing hyacinths or paperwhites in a jar. 

What better way to celebrate the shifting of seasons in your home?

Forcing tulips indoors

Brighten your interior this spring by forcing these extravagant spring bulbs.

How to prepare tulips for planting indoors

Some bulbs are sold ready for forcing, which means they've been pre-chilled. But often, you'll need to prepare tulips yourself.

'Tulips require 14-16 weeks of chill time to adequately grow and bloom,' says Katie Sunderlage of Holland Group.

To do this, store the bulbs in a cool, dry, and dark location, she says. This can be a sheltered, outdoor spot where the temperatures are consistently below 50°F during the day but will not go below freezing. The bulbs can alternatively be stored in a refrigerator, she says – a good option if you live in a warmer climate.  

She recommends placing them in a paper bag with vermiculite, sawdust, or kitty litter to keep moisture away from the bulbs. If storing them in the fridge, it's important to keep the bulbs away from fruits or vegetables, she adds. 'Fruits and veggies can give off ethylene gases that can cause the bulbs to rot.

'After the bulbs have received the correct amount of time pre-chilling, they can then be planted.'

You can also plant the bulbs prior to pre-chilling them, Katie continues. 'The pots can then be stored in the same cool locations recommended above for the required timeframe.' 

If following this method, check on them weekly: 'Regular watering isn’t necessary, but the soil should be slightly damp. Using a misting bottle or spray bottle is a great way to provide moisture without overwatering.' If mold starts to form on the surface of the soil, the bulbs should still be okay, she adds, 'but it’s important to not water until the soil is allowed to dry out.'

How to plant tulips indoors

Follow these expert steps to force tulip bulbs indoors:

1. 'Select high-quality, firm bulbs,' advises Tony O'Neill of Simplify Gardening. He recommends 'Apricot Beauty', 'Christmas Marvel', or 'Golden Apeldoorn'. 'Avoid any bulbs that show signs of damage or rot,' he adds.
2. Complete the pre-chilling process explained above by storing the bulbs somewhere cold. If you are pre-chilling them in their pots, follow the planting instructions below beforehand.
3. Choose a container that is 6-12 inches in diameter and relatively shallow, advises Anna Ohler of Bright Lane Gardens. 'Use a well-draining potting soil and fill the container to about 3-4 inches below the rim,' instructs Autumn Hilliard-Knapp of Perfect Plants Nursery.
4. 'Place the tulip bulbs on top, pointed end up, and cover them with soil, leaving the tips of the bulbs exposed,' Autumn continues. 'Several bulbs can be grown in each container,' says Anna. But, as Tony points out, ensure each bulb has about an inch of space around it. 'Bulbs can be close but should not touch each other or the sides of the pot,' he says.
5. 'Water the bulbs thoroughly after planting to settle the soil,' Autumn says.
6. After planting your pre-chilled bulbs (or completing the pre-chilling process for bulbs planted in pots), place the pots in a location that is between 55-65°F for about 2-3 weeks, says Katie. This gives them time to acclimate to a warmer environment. Moving them too quickly can shock the bulbs and cause them to grow shorter than expected or not bloom, she explains. 'During this time, make sure to keep the soil moist but not saturated.'
7. After they have been acclimated, the potted bulbs can be moved to a bright, sunny, and warm location, says Katie. At this time, they will need more regular watering as they will be actively growing, she adds.

How to care for indoor tulips

'As the tulip shoots grow taller, continue to water them every 2-3 days, keeping the soil evenly moist,' says Anna. 'A diluted, evenly balanced fertilizer can also be added to help the plant flower.'

Try to keep them away from central heating and cold drafts. 

'We have found that artificially pre-chilling bulbs is generally only successful for one growing season,' says Katie. 'A lot of energy is used when the bulbs are planted outside of their normal planting conditions, therefore they can be discarded after one year.'

FAQs

While you wait for spring to arrive, don't forget there are many other ways to bring blooms into your home. If you time it right, you can plant amaryllis in time for Christmas, for instance. Indoor cyclamen and Christmas cactuses also make pretty additions to a winter display.

Ranunculus are fashionable flowers that bloom from spring onwards and come in a wide range of colors. While the term ranunculus covers all plants in the buttercup family, it is the type known as Persian Buttercups that are commonly referred to as ranunculus and are popular in flower beds for their bold colors and impressive blooms.

Ranunculus do have a reputation for being difficult to grow and getting the planting correct can be the first hurdle to overcome. While many bulbs are cold-hardy and can handle winter temperatures and frost, this is not the case for ranunculus bulbs.

While often referred to as miniature bulbs, ranunculus grows from small corms that look similar in shape to claws - and are even commonly called claws by growers. These corms, or claws, are ideally soaked before planting and protected from colder temperatures that can harm them.

When to plant ranunculus bulbs 

The best time to plant ranunculus bulbs will depend on the climate in your US hardiness zone. Corms are not fully winter-hardy and can be killed by cold winter temperatures. Depending on your climate, ranunculus claws can be planted in either fall or spring and this will also dictate their flowering time. We take a closer look at when you can plant ranunculus bulbs in different hardiness zones.

Planting in warmer climates

Ranunculus corms are winter hardy in USDA zones 8 and above and can be planted in the fall to be spring flowering plants. When you are considering planting ranunculus to flower as spring bulbs as part of a fall gardening checklist, it is important to know your climate. The half-hardy corms are damaged when temperatures get below 25°F, they can freeze and then rot when thaw out.

If your winter climate gets down lower than that level, then consider planting in spring or be prepared to either protect plants with row covers or grow them in a greenhouse or polytunnel. You can get kits that include row covers and hoops to protect plants in winter, such as this plant cover kit available at Amazon.

There are advantages to planting ranunculus in late fall or early winter. At this time the soil is cool and moist and it provides the ideal environment for ranunculus to get off to a good start. 

Tammy Sons is the CEO of TN Nursery, which grows and sells around 50,000 ranunculi every year, and she says that fall is ‘the ideal time to plant ranunculus bulbs’. 

‘When you plant them in late fall, they tend to perform better as they can remain dormant and establish themselves before starting to grow in the spring,' says Tammy. 'Allowing the bulb to become established before the spring growing season can help it to thrive.’

Tammy also advises planting bulbs deep to further protect them, closer to three inches than the depth usually recommended, adding: ‘When planted at a depth of only 1-2 inches, they are more likely to be killed in winter’

Planting in colder climates

If you live in colder climates, such as USDA hardiness zones 4-7, then you have to wait until after the last frost for your area to plant ranunculus bulbs outdoors. The exact time for the last frost will vary depending on your location and ranunculus planted in late winter or early spring will flower in the summer.

Juliea Huffaker, an experienced gardener and founder of Farmhouse Harvest, says cold winters will mean the ground is cold and solid -  very unsuitable conditions for planting ranunculus outside.

‘The threat of frost and prolonged freezing temperatures poses a risk to the bulbs, potentially causing damage or preventing them from growing properly, she says. 

‘In these cold climates, it's crucial to wait until the threat of frost has passed and the soil has started to warm up before planting ranunculus bulbs. This typically occurs in early to mid-spring, around March or April, depending on the specific local climate conditions.’

Rather than wait for the ground to thaw in colder climates, you can start ranunculus indoors to provide them with the warmth required to thrive. 

Ranunculus bulbs can be started indoors and want to grow in a cool spot, so an unheated backyard greenhouse or cold frame is ideal. Somewhere to keep the dangerous frosts away from the bulbs, but that gives them the light and warmth to help them to naturally develop. 

If you are planning a greenhouse for the winter period, then it can be a way to take advantage of the protected growing environment indoors to get ranunculus blooms in spring. You may also consider planting ranunculus in a spring planter or spring window box indoors, to then move them outside once the temperatures rise.

Start ranunculus bulbs off in pots in the fall and overwinter them in the greenhouse. The plants can then be moved outdoors once the frosts have ended.

Shop the range of ranunculus bulbs available at Dutch Grown

FAQs

Ranunculus are fantastic options if you are planning a cut flower garden. They are popular choices for cutting garden flowers thanks to their long stems and impressive vase life, as they are capable of lasting for up to 10 days.

Amaryllis are hugely popular houseplants that traditionally bloom in winter and bring a vibrant pop of color to the home throughout the colder months. 

They are very simple to grow and usually bloom within eight weeks of planting the bulbs.

Renowned as Christmas plants, most growers want to time their amaryllis to be in full bloom for the festive period. That usually means planting them in fall so their large and impressive blooms are ready to light up the home at the end of the year.

Many people may not realize that amaryllis actually have a long flowering season and, by spacing out your planting, it means potentially having these easy indoor plants blooming all the way from winter through to early summer.

Indoor bulbs for Christmas 

Amaryllis are fantastic indoor flowering plants and hugely popular as bulbs for Christmas blooms. Along with the likes of hyacinths, daffodils, crocus, and snowdrops, forced bulbs are used as Christmas decor and their blooms can come to the fore in the festive period and through January. 

It does require a little bit of forward planning to ensure blooms will be flowering at the right time, and here we take a look at when and how you can plant amaryllis for glorious blooms throughout the bleaker months of the year.

When to plant an amaryllis bulb

The planting window for amaryllis bulbs is actually quite a long one: you can plant the bulbs starting in October through to the end of April. The bulbs often take from 6-8 weeks to flower, depending on their growing conditions, and it means they can bloom all the way through to early summer. 

It may take a while for amaryllis to get going, but it is worth the wait when the plant blooms. While they do have a potentially long flowering window, most people grow amaryllis for the festive season - meaning bulbs should be planted in October or early November. 

There is a wide range of amaryllis to choose from and you can see a range of jumbo sized amaryllis bulbs available at Dutch Grown.

When to plant amaryllis bulbs for Christmas blooms

To ensure that your amaryllis bulb is in full bloom for Christmas, planting it at the right time is imperative. Understanding the length of time it takes for bulbs to go from planting to blooming means you can get the timing spot on to include flowering amaryllis as part of your holiday decorations.

Mike Lansing, the managing director of Planters Digest, advises people to ‘buy several different varieties’ of amaryllis for blooms all winter long, as some types flower earlier than others. 

However, when it comes to the timing for specific celebrations, he recommends: ‘Start bulbs right after Halloween if you want flowers during the Christmas season. Plant around New Year's Day to have blossoms for Valentine's Day.’

It is important to remember that, as well as the type of bulb, the temperature, light levels, and watering will impact on how long it takes for the amaryllis to bloom. The environmental conditions it is growing in will have an effect on whether it is ready in time for Christmas, or blooms closer to the new year.

How to plant amaryllis bulbs

The method for planting amaryllis bulbs is different to planting many other bulbs, including popular spring bulbs that you may plant outside in flower beds or in container gardens. 

To begin with, it is advisable to soak the base of an amaryllis bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours before planting. This process rehydrates the roots and can help to speed up its growth. 

After this, Zahid Adnan, passionate gardener and founder of The Plant Bible, recommends four key stages to follow when planting amaryllis bulbs:

1. Choose a Suitable Container - Select a pot or container that's about 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the amaryllis bulb. Ensure the container has drainage holes at the bottom to prevent waterlogged soil, which can lead to bulb rot.
2. Quality Potting Mix - Use a well-draining potting mix, preferably with a mix of organic matter and perlite. Amaryllis bulbs appreciate good drainage, so avoid heavy soils. 
3. Planting Depth - Place the amaryllis bulb in the container, burying it about two-thirds deep. Leave the top one-third of the bulb above the soil line.
4. Water and Light - Water your bulb thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. Then, place the pot in a sunny location, ensuring it receives indirect sunlight. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Reduce watering after the initial growth phase. 

As the amaryllis develops it is beneficial to feed it with a balanced fertilizer every 2-4 weeks and use supports to keep it upright - as it is liable to be top-heavy once its large flowers bloom. 

Don’t discard amaryllis after it blooms, as they can be encouraged with the right care to flower again the following year. 

FAQs

Unfortunately, amaryllis may be great indoor plants but they can be poisonous to dogs and cats. There are other pet safe indoor plants that can bring color into the home for the festive period, including the Christmas cactus.

The garden tends to slow down in November as the light levels and temperatures drop. There are still many tasks to do in the garden this month, however, including sowing and planting flowers.

While you may think more about protecting plants from the cold, you should also consider what you can plant in November. As well as being an ideal time to plant shrubs and trees, there is still seed sowing and bulb planting to do this month to fill flower beds and borders with color and blooms next year.

Depending on your set-up, you may sow seeds or bulbs directly outdoors or be able to start plants indoors and look after them over winter ready to plant out in spring. Even if you sow straight into the ground, there are ways to keep seedlings protected and provide them with warmer conditions to grow in.

Flowers to plant in November

While the list may be shorter than other months, you can still start many plants in November. Lots of spring bulbs can be planted this month, hardy perennials can be sown indoors or outdoors, and annuals started indoors to get a head start on the season and give you strong plants and earlier blooms next year. We take a look at some great ornamental plants to sow this month.

1. Echinops

Echinops are stunning ornamental plants with unique jagged leaves and a spiky globe-shaped flower head that come in shades of blue and silver. These perennials, also known commonly as globe thistles, are Mediterranean plants that can work in many different garden color schemes.

You can sow echinops either in spring or in fall, with November the last chance to sow these flowers in fall. When sown in November they need to be grown undercover throughout winter - so make space for them when planning a greenhouse space - ready to be planted out come spring.

Echinops seeds should be sown thinly in trays and pricked out into individual pots when large enough to handle. Grow them on until the frosts have passed and they can be planted out in the garden. Echinops commonly self-seed around the garden, though you can collect seeds to sow or take plant cuttings during the perennial’s dormant season if you want to grow more plants.

2. Eryngium

Eryngium, also known commonly as sea holly, is another dramatic spiky plant. Its serrated leaves are similar to those of a thistle and it has oval flower heads that come in a range of sizes and shades, from blue to silver-white. These distinctive perennials are popular coastal plants and ideal for drought tolerant planting ideas or dry gardens.

Eryngiums like to be sown in the fall as they need a period of cold weather to ensure they germinate. Sow the seeds directly into the ground in November, or into pots or trays to keep in an unheated backyard greenhouse or cold frame, and they will hopefully burst into life come spring.

Once eryngiums are established, they will flower year after year and often self-seed freely around the garden. Their dramatic blooms make them great cutting garden flowers, and their spiky nature means they are rabbit repellent plants.

3. Lupines

Lupines are much-loved for their outstanding spikes of colorful blooms that flower in late spring and early summer. These perennials are favorites in cottage gardens and are fantastic plants for color and structure in flower borders. An added bonus is that their flowers that attract bees and other pollinators.

When it comes to propagating lupines, they can be grown from cuttings or from seed. Lupines from seed will grow in a variety of colors, so if you do want to replicate a specific plant then cuttings is the way to grow.

Growing lupines from seed requires them to experience a period of cold. While you can sow seeds from spring onwards, sowing lupine seeds in fall is an easy way to provide the cold snap they require. This can be done either in a cold greenhouse, cold frame or direct outdoors. After germinating indoors, pot plants on and look after them until spring.

Once plants are established, you can keep lupines blooming by regularly going out to deadhead flowers throughout the blooming period. A good option for sowing is the 'Russell Hybrid Mixed Colors' from Burpee that flower in a range of colors in early summer.

4. Sweet Peas

One of the most popular flowers around the globe year after year, growing sweet peas is very simple if you want to add these cottage garden favorites to your backyard ideas. There are hundreds of different species of sweet peas, coming in all manner of colors, sizes and scents. Sweet peas are reliable and outstanding annuals for flower beds and perfect for planning a cut flower garden.

These classic annual favorites can be sown in spring or the fall and November remains an ideal time to plant sweet peas indoors. It is not too late to sow this month if you want to get ahead and be rewarded with earlier blooms next year.

Sow seeds indoors into pots filled with quality potting compost and keep them in a greenhouse or cold frame to grow over winter. The young plants can be transplanted into the garden in spring once the temperatures have risen, after a period of hardening off the seedlings.

5. Tulips

November is a great month to plant tulip bulbs. Whatever type of tulips you pick, whether they are species tulips, fringed tulip varieties, parrot types, double-flowering tulips, or any other of the 15 different groups, planting in November helps prevent tulip fire as the cold weather kills the fungal spores.

As with all spring bulbs, plant tulips at twice the depth of the bulb. Also, ensure the pointy end is facing upward and the bulbs are at least four inches apart. The bulbs can be planted individually, in groups, or containers. Depending on how many bulbs you are planting, you can use a garden trowel or a bulb planter.

Discover the range of tulip bulbs at Dutch Grown

6. Daffodils

If you plan on planting bulbs in the fall, you cannot go wrong with daffodils. With the sheer number of varieties of narcissus bulbs - there are more than 50 species and 25,000 varieties - coming in different colors, forms, and flowering times, it means there will be a daffodil to suit any desire.

Planting daffodil bulbs can be done from September onwards and The American Daffodil Society recommends November as an ideal time to plant in warmer climates. Plant daffodils in a sunny or light-shade position in well-draining soil and make sure the hole is at least twice as deep as the bulb’s height.

The planting height is important. Too deep is a bulb planting mistake that can leave them susceptible to rotting, while too shallow means there is more risk of pests digging them up. Large varieties will need deeper holes than miniature bulbs such as dwarf types of daffodils.

7. Alliums

Another stunning spring bulb to plant in fall, alliums always impress with their pompom blooms sitting atop tall stems that come to the fore in late spring and early summer. Say alliums and most people think of the classic purple blooms, but different varieties come in red, yellow, or white shades and can be more unusual bulbs to plant in fall than the common types.

All varieties of alliums can be planted this month into deep holes in flower beds, while shorter varieties can be added to large planters to grow in container gardens. If you have heavy soil, it is beneficial to add drainage to the planting hole to avoid the bulb rotting in cold and wet soil over winter. Plant allium bulbs before the ground freezes and you’ll need to do little else until the bulb bursts into life come spring.

FAQs

Can I sow wildflower seeds in November?

You can sow wildflower seeds in spring or fall, with later sowings offering the benefit of earlier blooms in the spring. While some wildflowers may want a period of cold to break their dormancy, too much winter frost can cause damage. Unless you live in a milder climate, it may be best to sow them indoors in November or wait until spring to plant wildflower seeds.

Fall sowings are also not recommended for soils that are liable to get waterlogged or sit very wet for long periods during the winter. There is such a huge range of wildflower species to choose from for a wildlife garden, so check any seed packets for the recommended sowing dates.

Can I sow cornflowers in November?

Cornflowers come in a range of colors and are regularly seen in seed mixes for wildflower meadows. The plants can be sown either in the spring or in the fall, however October is usually the end of the fall planting window for cornflowers. Cornflowers can tolerate light frosts, making fall sowing only really suitable for climates with milder winters, but an early sowing can mean an earlier show of blooms next year.

Knowing where and how to store bulbs is important if you cannot plant them immediately after purchase. Keep them in a cool and dry location with good air circulation and away from where mice or other rodents may be attracted to them. Storing them for a short period means they will be good when you get around to planting them, but spring bulbs should only be stored for a few weeks and planted before the first frosts.