Tying up is a vital part of growing many different plants, and there are different types of ties to consider. Whether you are supporting sweet peas, tomatoes, sunflowers, or clematis, you want to use the best plant ties for the job.

You can use different forms of twine or jute, soft or flexi-ties, or DIY solutions like fabric strips or hessian. Each has its own pros and cons, and their suitability should be assessed based on size, strength, sustainability, and longevity. What you definitely don’t want to use are materials that can cut through plant stems, such as wire.

A lot of thought often goes into the best plant supports, and the same is warranted for plant ties, as without them, our gardens would be more chaotic. This guide looks at some of the best plant ties on offer, DIY solutions, and those to avoid.

The Best Plant Ties

Jute

Twine is a common material for plant ties. Twine is a term for a material made by twisting together fibers, and a roll or ball of twine can be made from natural fibres like jute or flax – most often, you see jute twine for sale as a gardening accessory.

What makes jute one of the best plant ties is that it’s natural and biodegradable. It can be used to support plants for a season and then be used to make compost (provided it is 100% natural jute).

It is a strong, flexible material for supporting top-heavy flowers, vegetables, climbers, and shrubs, and one I have often used when growing sweet peas or French beans. Jute’s soft yet strong texture means it won’t cut into stems, and the natural material blends into the plant’s foliage.

Soft Ties

An alternative to twine is flexi-ties, or soft ties. These are made from PVC, plastic, or rubber, and some have a wire center for extra strength. These plant ties are flexible and strong, holding up even top-heavy plants without the risk of slipping, strangling, or digging into the plant stems.

Flexi-ties are weather-resistant and can be used for many years, whether for long-term support to a trained tree (I used to use them for tying in wall-trained fig trees and espalier apple trees) or shrub, or removed and reused on different plants year after year.

This makes them budget-friendly plant ties, but they do need to be binned at the end of their usage. Just like with twine, you tend to get them as a roll to cut to length as needed.

Other Options

Twine and flexi-ties are the traditional types of plant ties commonly used for many years, but there are more options available for gardeners looking for something a bit different.

A really simple-to-use and reusable plant tie is a velcro one, such as these velcro plant ties at Amazon, made from 65% recycled plastic. Velcro plant ties are made from soft, gentle material; they attach to themselves and won’t scratch or damage your plants.

The simple Velcro system means gardeners don’t need to tie any knots, and, because of the way they are secured, they can easily be adjusted as the plant grows or removed at the end of the season. And they can be reused for several seasons.

Plastic loop plant ties, such as these adjustable plant ties at Walmart, go around the plant and secure by hooking one end of the tie through the other. They are a thicker material than the soft velcro ties, but are quick to adjust, reposition, or remove.

However, my experience with them has found them a bit fiddly, and they can slip during the season, so you need to keep an eye on them.

A final option to consider is plastic plant clips. They are commonly used for growing tomatoes or climbing plants, and they clip around the stem and the plant support. These are reusable, quick to install, and you don’t need to tie or knot, but they can be delicate, and cheaper versions get brittle and break easily. You can get a pack of tomato clips at Amazon.

DIY Plant Ties

If you like to reuse and recycle and opt for plastic alternatives in the garden, there are several DIY alternatives you can use. The key is to opt for soft fabric strips with some stretchiness. This can be done by using old t-shirts, fabric, tights, or stockings.

These materials are strong, soft, and stretchy – a perfect combination for plant ties. Cut them into inch-wide strips, and they can be used to support all manner of trees, shrubs, perennials, or vegetables.

They may look a bit more rustic (or messy) than other plant ties, so they may be more suited to productive vegetable gardens than manicured flower beds.

Alternative DIY plant ties you can make from repurposed household materials include using hessian or burlap (you can get a burlap roll at Walmart), and any old velcro fastening strips you may have lying around.

Plant Ties to Avoid

Poor choices of plant ties can hugely damage plants; they can strangle or snap stems. That is why you should always avoid bare wire, metal ties (without a coating), fishing line, or zip ties.

These materials can scrape away at plant material, exposing the plant’s inner parts and leaving it vulnerable to pests and diseases. In extreme circumstances, they can really dig in and even decapitate plants.

You can get large, heavy rubber or elastic ties designed for supporting trees and large shrubs. These types of ties should only be used for their intended purpose, and are too large to support climbing flowers or vegetables.

Plant supports play a crucial role in keeping tall or climbing plants upright and attractive. Top-heavy perennial plants are liable to flop under their own weight, or after rain showers, unless given some form of support.

If you like bringing a more natural touch to your flower beds, our guide to the best natural supports for tall perennials reveals how to use twigs, bamboo, hazel, or willow to provide the best backdrop for your plants.

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Trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) is a climbing plant that acts as a magnet for hummingbirds, which are attracted to its nectar-rich tubular flowers. You can even grow trumpet vine in pots to attract hummingbirds into smaller spaces, provided you manage the vigorous climber properly.

The climber has a reputation for its aggressive growth, but that doesn't mean growing them in pots is a pipe dream. There are more compact varieties suitable for large, sun-soaked containers. Give them the support, watering, feeding, pruning, and winter care they need to perform, and you can get a vivid display year after year.

If you like the sound of adding vertical color and nectar for pollinators into a smaller space, there are a few facets of how to grow trumpet vines that you need to understand. Here, we look at seven important factors for enjoying the best display and keeping a trumpet vine under control.

1. Find a Compact Variety

A trumpet vine is a vigorous climbing plant, and some species can grow 40 feet in a season – unmanageable for containers. Thankfully, there are options out there that can make a trumpet vine more container-friendly.

If you want to grow trumpet vine in pots, look for a more compact cultivar of Campsis radicans. You can get less vigorous cultivars bred for smaller gardens. These are ideal climbing plants for pots and will be much more manageable, offering more controlled growth but without sacrificing the flowering.

Varieties such as ‘Indian Summer’ and ‘Flava’ are more compact and less aggressive than other trumpet vine varieties. They are easier to control in large pots and will provide bright blooms, making them perfect container plants for pollinators.

You can get a live Campsis radicans ‘Flava’ plant at Amazon. This native climber has yellow trumpet-shaped flowers that hummingbirds adore. Its size can be controlled in a pot through pruning.

And you can get a live ‘Indian Summer’ trumpet vine plant at Amazon

2. Choose a Suitable Pot

Truthfully, even a more compact trumpet vine needs a large container. Trumpet vine in pots requires a container at least 15-25 gallons in size, usually around 16-24 inches wide and deep to accommodate their deep-growing root network.

Trumpet vine in pots benefits from a heavier pot, made from terracotta or ceramic, to stop the top-heavy plant from tipping over in high winds. Just remember that any planter needs drainage holes in the bottom to prevent waterlogging.

Fill your chosen container with a well-draining potting mix, like this Miracle-Gro potting mix, available at Amazon.

WARNING: As trumpet vines have aggressive roots and spread via suckers, an advantage of containing them in pots is that the potentially invasive climbers are restricted. But it is still advisable to check for roots growing out of the bottom of the container. If you do spot that, cut them back to stop them escaping.

3. Give the Plant Sun

For the maximum number of flowers to attract hummingbirds and other pollinators, trumpet vine in pots wants sun.

The plant will thrive in 6-8 hours of daily sunshine, but can tolerate part-shade, though the flowering will be affected. Too much shade and you may end up with a lot of vines but few flowers.

As well as full sun, the vine also needs shelter against cold winds. A perfect spot may be a sunny and protected corner of a patio or deck, or against a wall, where the climber can scale a trellis.

4. Supports Are a Must

A trumpet vine is a flowering climber. Unsurprisingly, it needs a structure to climb, and one that wants to be put in place when the plant is small.

This support can be a trellis or an obelisk, such as this iron obelisk at Wayfair that can be placed in a large container and provide a stunning backdrop for a trumpet vine to climb.

If the trumpet vine is placed next to a wall, you can mount a wooden hanging trellis like this on Amazon for it to grow up.

Alternatively, you can get a raised bed with an attached trellis at Walmart that is perfect for climbing plants. You can plant the trumpet vine in the bed or sink a pot-grown vine in the planting area and allow the stems to scramble up the attached trellis.

Start training the climber when it is young by tying young shoots to the structure using soft ties, such as these plant ties at Amazon.

5. Water and Feed Plants Regularly

Climbers growing in containers always need more watering and fertilizing than plants growing in the ground. While trumpet vines in the ground usually only need watering during extended dry periods once established, and are usually so vigorous that they can thrive without regular feeding, it is a different story when growing in pots.

The soil in containers can dry out quickly when temperatures rise, and flourishing plants can speedily use up all the nutrients in the potting mix. Regular deep watering is essential to keep the soil consistently moist in summer, potentially twice a week or more during hot spells.

Plus, the plant will benefit from a balanced feed in spring, using a product like this all-purpose plant food available at Burpee. This should be followed up with at least a monthly high-potassium feed (such as this tomato fertilizer with kelp at Amazon) to provide them with all the essential nutrients needed to flower.

6. Prune Hard Every Year

Annual hard pruning helps to keep the trumpet vine in pots contained and control its overall size – making this task an important part of any maintenance plan.

Prune a trumpet vine in late winter or early spring. Don’t be afraid of pruning hard, as the climber flowers on new growth – the vines it produces that season. Cut all the growth back to around 12 inches. This is the best technique when growing it in pots to keep it controlled in a smaller space.

It is essential to wear gloves when doing any trimming of trumpet vines, as the plant’s sap can cause skin irritation.

Make sure any pruning tools are clean and sharp. A pair of pruning shears (like this pair of Corona bypass pruners at Garden Goods Direct) is likely to be the best tool for this hard annual pruning, but any stems over an inch wide will need loppers.

7. Protect It in Winter

Trumpet vines are hardy through US hardiness zones 4 to 10 when growing in the ground. But the roots are more exposed when growing in pots, so their hardiness is reduced.

In climates that experience cold winters, gardeners growing trumpet vine in pots should take steps to overwinter the plants. This can be as simple as moving the container to a sheltered position against a wall to protect the plants from frost.

Or the pot can be wrapped for winter in frost cloth, burlap (you can get a roll of burlap at Amazon), or winter pot covers to insulate the roots against freezing temperatures.

If you are looking for more uncommon vertical plants that attract hummingbirds and butterflies in a wildlife garden, this guide to underrated climbers includes some fascinating evergreen and semi-evergreen plants that are known to attract wildlife, including pollinators, songbirds, and beneficial insects.

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Honeysuckle is a popular plant within the Lonicera genus, which includes around 160 different species native to various parts of the world, including North America, Europe, and Asia. While there is a glorious diversity of honeysuckles, you are always better off planting native varieties in your garden.

Where there are good options, there must be bad ones. These are the invasive non-native species that are always best avoided, as they grow quickly and overtake local flora. While they may look attractive, they can suppress native plants and harm local biodiversity and wildlife.

If you want to grow honeysuckle, opt for native plants. They are better suited to your soil and climate, and their nectar and berries support a wide range of pollinators and birds. Here, we take a look at some of the best native honeysuckle that not only look gorgeous but will be adored by bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, birds, and more.

5 of the Best Honeysuckles for a Wildlife-Friendly Garden

We want to help you make the smartest decisions for your garden and local wildlife, so this guide reveals five of the best native honeysuckle shrubs. Plus, we reveal some of the worst non-native honeysuckles to avoid planting in your yard.

Ahead of planting climbing honeysuckle, it is advisable to have the support or trellis in place beforehand. Such a structure could be a trellis, pergola, arch, wires, or an arbor, such as this attractive metal arbor for climbing plants at Wayfair.

1. Coral Honeysuckle

Lonicera sempervirens is commonly known as both coral honeysuckle and trumpet honeysuckle. It is native to the eastern United States, and a hugely popular native honeysuckle species for any gardener looking to establish a buzzing wildlife garden.

The vigorous vine produces tubular coral-red flowers that are a magnet for hummingbirds, bees, butterflies, and moths. Then come red berries in fall that are popular with birds, including finches, robins, waxwings, and other songbirds.

You can grow coral honeysuckle in US hardiness zones 4-9, in either full sun or part shade. The flowering climber works perfectly when scrambling over a trellis, fence, or arbor. If you want a climber to attract hummingbirds, this one should top your list.

You can get a live coral honeysuckle plant at Amazon to add to your garden

2. Yellow Honeysuckle

Yellow Honeysuckle (Lonicera flava) is a fast-growing climbing plant native to the central and eastern United States.

It is a woody native honeysuckle species that produces tubular, fragrant yellow flowers with protruding stamens, which provide perfect access for hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. The strong night-time fragrance of the plant also attracts nocturnal pollinators to the native plant, such as moths.

In late summer and fall, the vines' reddish-orange berries draw in birds such as thrushes, warblers, robins, and bullfinches.

A yellow honeysuckle is suitable for US hardiness zones 5-8, and will flower best when planted in the full sun. It can grow to 10-20 feet tall and 3-6 feet wide, and can be grown to cover a fence, trellis, shed, or other structure.

3. Orange honeysuckle

Orange honeysuckle (Lonicera ciliosa) is native to the northwest United States, where it is commonly seen growing in woodlands and forest edges.

This native honeysuckle has gloriously large trumpet-shaped orange-yellow flowers in early summer, which make it a magnet for hummingbirds and their long beaks. The flowers are not fragrant, but do stand out impressively against the large, ovate, dark green leaves.

An orange honeysuckle is also a great option to attract butterflies, as it is known as a host plant for caterpillars that develop into several species of native butterflies and moths. As with others on this list, the fruit also provides essential food for birds later in the season.

Orange honeysuckle is suitable for zones 5-9 and can reach heights of 10-20 feet. It has a natural sprawling growth habit, so the climbing plant needs support. This can include growing it up a garden arbor or trellis. It can be planted in full sun or partial shade, but it prefers moist, well-draining soil.

You can get a live orange honeysuckle at Amazon

4. American Fly Honeysuckle

Not all loniceras are large, climbing plants. A good example of a more shrubby honeysuckle is Lonicera canadensis, known as the American fly honeysuckle or Canada fly honeysuckle. It is seen through southern Canadian provinces and the northeastern US states.

This deciduous native honeysuckle shrub reaches 3-6 feet in height. Its pale yellow spring flowers are perfect for migrating hummingbirds and pollinators looking for a food source early in the season. The fruits appear as a pair of small red berries on long stalks, and are eaten by robins, goldfinch, mockingbirds, and more.

An American fly honeysuckle is a woodland plant that prefers moist soil and a shadier planting spot. It can thrive as a shade-loving plant under a tree and even grow in full shade.

5. Twinberry Honeysuckle

Lonicera involucrata goes by many names, so you may hear it called twinberry honeysuckle, bearberry honeysuckle, California honeysuckle, bracted honeysuckle, or the black twinberry honeysuckle.

Don’t get confused by all the names; the important thing to remember is that it is native to large parts of North America, from southern Canada down to northwestern Mexico, and it benefits many native insects, birds, and mammals.

The yellow long-lasting blooms appear in pairs and are surrounded by showy bracts. The flowers attract large numbers of bees, along with butterflies and hummingbirds. Birds and small mammals adore the berries that follow.

A twinberry honeysuckle is very versatile. It prefers well-draining soil and full sun to part shade. Reaching heights of 6-12 feet, it is highly ornamental and can bring year-round interest to flower beds or be used as an attractive, low-maintenance plant for garden screening.

You can get a live twinberry honeysuckle from Cache Valley Mountain Plants

What Are the Non-Native Honeysuckles to Avoid?

Now you’ve seen this selection of native honeysuckles, you may understandably want to know which honeysuckles are invasive. The following six are invasive plants that will aggressively spread and can out-compete local plants.

• Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica)
• Amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii)
• Morrow’s honeysuckle (Lonicera morrowii)
• Tartarian honeysuckle (Lonicera tatarica)
• Winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima)
• Bell’s honeysuckle (Lonicera x bella)

These invasive climbers can rapidly spread throughout an area as birds feed on the fruits and spread the seeds far and wide. The birds don’t benefit from eating the berries of non-native honeysuckles, as they are not as rich in fats and nutrients, but they unwittingly help the invasive species spread.

Even if you have a smaller space, you can still enjoy the fragrant blooms of a honeysuckle by growing it in a pot. It may sound surprising, but honeysuckle, including native honeysuckle, can thrive in larger containers in a small yard or on a deck, patio, or courtyard.

For the best chance of success when growing honeysuckle in pots, place the containers in dappled sun or part-shade. The containers should also be filled with a potting mix that is both well-draining and moisture-retentive.

Whether in the ground or containers, native honeysuckle will benefit from regular pruning. When you prune honeysuckle, the right time depends on the flowering. Early-flowering varieties are trimmed after blooming, while late bloomers are pruned in late winter or early spring.

Mandevilla plants are striking tropical climbers native to hot climates, so it may come as no surprise that they only survive as perennials in US hardiness zones 10 and above. As they cannot tolerate cold, you need to overwinter mandevilla indoors unless you are blessed with a tropical or subtropical climate.

The stunning flowering climbers produce vivid trumpet-shaped blooms that attract hummingbirds and butterflies during the season. While mandevilla are fast-growing climbers that can be treated as annuals in cooler climates, it is not difficult to overwinter mandevilla indoors so you can nurture plants for several years.

You can overwinter mandevilla as a houseplant to enjoy foliage over the colder months, or let the plant go dormant and store it over winter to bring it out again in spring. This guide provides step-by-step instructions for both methods of growing mandevilla over winter, so you can confidently nurture your climbers.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla – Which Way Will You Choose?

Mandevilla is native to the warmer regions of North, Central, and South America. The fast-growing climbing plants can grow up to 10 feet each season and bring a tropical garden vibe to any space, making it a popular climbing plant for growing up a house.

While gardeners in tropical or subtropical climates can have their plants in the ground, those in cooler climates often grow mandevilla in pots to climb up trellises. These plants are then either discarded come winter or moved indoors to survive winter in one of two ways.

If you are new to bringing your tropical plants indoors, let first look at the steps to take to treat it as a houseplant and then how you can overwinter mandevilla indoors in a dormant state.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla As a Houseplant

If you grow mandevilla in a pot, it can be simple to move it into a warm and protected space for winter and treat it as an indoor plant to enjoy. However, even if your plant is in the ground, it can be lifted to bring indoors. The mandevilla won't flower, but you can still enjoy the glossy leaves.

To overwinter mandevilla as an indoor plant, follow the steps below:

1. Keep an eye on the local weather forecasts to bring mandevilla plants indoors when temperatures look set to drop below 50°F overnight, and certainly ahead of any freezing temperatures.
2. Trim the mandevilla to a compact, manageable size to fit indoors. The vines can be trimmed back by up to half with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.
3. If the plant is in a pot, it can be as simple as moving the container. If the plant is in the ground, dig it up and pot it into a container filled with a well-draining potting soil for container gardening (like this Miracle-Gro potting mix at Amazon).
4. Inspect the plant for any pests, including aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs. These small insects can be dislodged with a hose or a spray with insecticidal soap (such as this Ready-to-Use Insecticidal Soap at Amazon).
5. Place the container in a sunny spot with lots of bright, indirect sunlight. A mandevilla requires a temperature of around 65-70°F throughout the winter and should be kept away from heat fluctuations caused by radiators, heating vents, or drafts.
6. Water the plant weekly to keep the soil moist and prevent it from drying out. Avoid over-watering plants (only water when the top two inches of soil are dry) and don't fertilize mandevilla during winter.
7. Come late winter, start to prepare the plant for the new season. Give it another trim, repot the plant if it needs it, and begin fertilizing once a month with a balanced liquid feed (like this concentrated liquid plant food at Walmart). The mandevilla can go outdoors once the temperatures are consistently above 60°F, after a period of hardening off.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla As a Dormant Plant

If you don't have the room to overwinter mandevilla as a houseplant, or cannot provide the right conditions for it to prosper, then the alternative is to put the plant into a dormant state to see it through the colder months. It can be done very simply in the following steps:

1. Bring the plant indoors once the temperatures drop to below 50°F and before the first frost (and pot it up if necessary).
2. Cut the plant back to 12 inches above the soil with a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears.
3. Place the container in a cool and dark location where temperatures are around 50°F, such as a basement or a frost-free garage.
4. Water the plant sparingly every few weeks – you only want to prevent the soil from drying out completely.
5. Once the plant starts breaking dormancy in the spring, move the plant to a warm, bright position and begin to water and feed the plant regularly.
6. Move the mandevilla back outside, after hardening off, once the temperatures are consistently above 60°F.

FAQs

What is the Lowest Temperature a Mandevilla Can Tolerate?

A mandevilla can tolerate temperatures as low as 50°F without showing any signs of damage. At temperatures below 50°F, the plants will struggle and start to drop leaves. At temperatures lower than 45°F, a mandevilla can be at risk of death. It is advisable to bring the plant indoors once night-time temperatures consistently drop close to 50°F.

Can Mandevilla Survive Winter in the Garage?

You can overwinter mandevilla in a garage as a dormant plant, providing the temperature stays above freezing. A window of 50-60°F is ideal, as the plant may break dormancy if temperatures rise above this.

If you are worried about losing mandevilla plants during winter, you can take plant cuttings as a backup. This can be done by taking softwood cuttings in early summer.

Take 4-6-inch cuttings of new growth and remove all leaves from the top half. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone (you can get rooting hormone powder at Walmart) and then place it into a small pot filled with potting mix. Place the cuttings in a bright location and keep them moist. They should root in around a month, when they can be potted up and grown indoors, ready to plant outside the following spring.

If you're looking for the best fast-growing climbing plants, then you should turn your attention to annual climbers. It is simply extraordinary what a humble seed can grow to in the course of a year.

You come to expect the reliably exponential growth from perennials, which have years, sometimes decades in the ground to establish themselves and improve their performance year on year. But climbing annuals simply get one shot, and so they don't save anything till later, throwing out all of their best performances in one season.

Oftentimes, because summer is when these climbing annual plants do their growing (and flowering), they reach their absolute best in fall, when they are in full theatre mode and the rest of the garden is packing up for the season. So if you're looking to extend the season in your garden, then these are really just vital. Here are the five climbing annuals you should be growing.

1. Morning Glory (Ipomoea purpurea)

Ipomoea, known as 'Morning Glory' is a phenomenally fast-growing flowering vine that can grow up to 10ft tall in one growing season.

It is technically a short-lived perennial, but it is most commonly grown as an annual, since most cultivated varieties will die as soon as temperatures get cool. If you live in USDA Zones 9-11 you may be lucky enough for it to come back post-winter, but on the whole, it will last one season. Though seeds are cheap and very easy to grow, that really doesn't matter.

The vines like to twine around a trellis, fence, or an obelisk, and it's worth bearing in mind how tall they can get. Flowers come in a range of hues, from cerulean blue to deep velvety purple and pale baby blue. My favorite of all of the colors is the Carnevale di Venezia Morning Glory Seeds, which are available from Burpee, and really do bring a carnival of color to your garden.

Height: 6-10ft

Aspect: Full sun, preferring south-facing or west-facing walls. Won't tolerate north-facing walls. 6-8 hours of sunlight per day is required to help the plant flourish.

Where to buy: You can purchase mixed morning glory seeds from True Leaf Market

2. Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus)

In my opinion, there is no point in having a summer without sweet peas. They are the most joyful little plants, grow very fast up teepees, arches, and tripods, and, since they are cut and come again flowers, the more you pick them for putting into vases in the house, the more they will flower.

Even though they are simple annuals, which die at the end of the season, they are very hardworking plants, and always humming with bees and butterflies. They're modestly priced and, if you get a range of different sweet pea varieties, you will ensure that you have a succession of blooms, often right through summer and into the depths of winter.

One of the easiest flowers to grow from seed, so it is worth getting a few different varieties and finding your favorites. Lathyrus odoratus ‘Matucana' is beloved amongst sweet pea fanatics for its unbelievable room-filling fragrance.

Height: Up to 12ft

Aspect: Full sun

Where to buy: If you are new to growing sweet peas, then I recommend a sweet pea mix like this one available at Burpee

3. Purple Bell Vine (Rhodochiton)

Another mesmerising annual climber that is technically a perennial native to Mexico, but unless you enjoy high temperatures through the winter months, it will grow as an annual. Though it is so fast-growing, it is well worth it.

Purple bell vine is one of the longest-flowering climbers you can grow. Remarkably, it flowers in spring and continues to produce flowers until late November. My Rhodochiton plant, which sits against a warm wall in a sheltered spot in my sunny London garden, still blooms optimistically right through to Christmas.

It is one of the best climbers to attract hummingbirds, and so too the honeybees and butterflies adore it for its near constant supply of nectar.

Height: 2.4m (8ft)

Aspect: On a climbing support in full sun or part shade

Where to buy: You can purchase packets of purple bell vine seed from Eden Brothers

4. Nastertium (Tropaeolum)

There are so many terrific nasturtium varieties, one can get quite obsessed with growing them. They grow so fast, you can even sow them in summer and still expect summer blooms. If you are a fairly idle gardener, then happily, knowing how to grow nasturtiums is wonderfully simple; they require very little to no attention at all.

Nasturtium 'Spitfire' is such a riot of color; visitors to your garden will obsess over it for hours. Believe me. You can buy modestly priced Nasturtium 'Spitfire' seeds from Burpee, and they will grow even in shady borders and pots. Another achingly beautiful variety is Nasturtium 'Empress of India', which can be purchased from Burpee. Empress of India has deep moss green and crimson leaves, and ruby colored flowers. It climbs and trails, and garden birds adore it.

Height: The height of nasturtiums will depend of the variety you grow, though most climbers will grow to around 2-3ft.

Aspect: Full sun

Where to buy: You can purchase a range of nasturtium seeds from Eden Brothers.

5. Thunbergia (Black-eyed Susan Vine)

Thunbergia, often referred to as 'black-eyed Susan vine', is a tremendous annual climbing plant, flowering profusely until your first hard frost, and covered practically from root to tip in masses of flowers, even at a very early age.

Not to be confused with the daisy-like 'black eyed Susan', which comes from the sunflower family (Thunbergia rather than Rudbeckia). Thunbergia is a vigorous, fast-growing annual that adds vertical interest and delivers it fast.

Looks fabulous in a sunny cottage garden border and will ramble and twine up trellises, obelisks, fences, and hanging baskets. I grow Thunbergia and purple bell vine together, and it looks extraordinarily beautiful.

Height: 3-4ft

Aspect: Preferably a full sun position, but can tolerate a small amount of shade

Where to buy: There are several colors to consider, not just the garish canary yellow that you often find; the colors range from earthy terracotta to darkened bronze hues. My favorite is the gentle apricot-rose hue of the very tasteful 'African Sunset' with its characteristic dark eye.

Shop climbing annual supports

These five climbing annual plants are some of the best annual flowers, along with other must-grows like cosmos, zinnias, and stocks. The key is to deadhead regularly to prolong their flowering period, but other than that they require very little work.

If you love what you've grown, you can even try collecting the seeds to sow again the following year.

Mandevilla is a show-stopping climber with large, impactful blooms that attract lots of bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Along with the showy flowers, mandevilla grows quickly every year, up to 10 feet per season, making fertilizing plants a must to keep them looking at their best.

The flowering vine can be grown outdoors year-round in warmer climates, brought indoors to overwinter, or cultivated as an annual. However you grow mandevilla, feeding is a crucial piece of maintenance to keep plants growing strongly and putting on a top display of vibrant flowers.

So, how often do you need to fertilize mandevilla? Here, we answer that important question, highlighting what makes a perfect feeding regime for mandevilla and how to pick the best feeds to use.

When and how to fertilize mandevilla – hummingbirds will thank you

Mandevilla, also known as rocktrumpet, are flowering climbers that make a stunning impact when used to cover a wall, fence, pergola, or arch. With blooms in shades of red, pink, yellow, or white, they are eye-catching vines.

It is not only humans that adore the flowers, as hummingbirds like mandevilla blooms. The vivid blooms are attractive to hummingbirds as they are nectar-rich, come in highly visible shades, and are perfectly shaped for their long beaks and tongues.

Feeding mandevilla will mean more flowers for these beautiful pollinators. It means understanding when and how to fertilize mandevilla rewards you with healthy vines and more flowers for both you and hummingbirds to enjoy.

When to fertilize mandevilla

Mandevilla are fast-growing climbing plants that thrive with regular feeding. Taking the time to fertilize mandevilla throughout the season supplies the nutrients the plant needs to grow vigorously and display an impressive array of blooms. This is particularly important if you grow mandevilla in pots.

Getting the nutrient levels right starts even before you plant the mandevilla.

The plants prefer a rich soil type, and adding compost or well-rotted manure to the planting site ensures the soil is fertile and perfectly suited to growing mandevilla. Mulching with organic matter will also release nutrients over time, as well as retain moisture in the soil and suppress weeds.

The vine benefits from an application of slow-release, balanced fertilizer in spring, just as it starts to grow strongly for the season. Such a product contains all the essential plant nutrients and will release them to the plant over the course of several months.

As for how often to fertilize mandevilla, a good all-round feeding regime does not end with just one spring feed.

Mandevilla are hungry vines and, for the best and longest flowering performance, will benefit from being fed every 2-3 weeks once they start blooming with a water-soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus.

Such products are commonly known as 'bloom boosters' as they are formulated with an ideal mix of nutrients to encourage strong blooming over the flowering season. They feature lots of phosphorus, which is key to forming flowers, as well as other essential nutrients for healthy plants.

You should not fertilize mandevilla in the fall or winter, so stop feeding at the end of the flowering period. Doing so would be a fertilizing mistake that will encourage the development of unwanted new growth at the end of the season.

How to fertilize mandevilla

The most suitable products for fertilizing mandevilla differ throughout the growing season.

A fundamental aspect of picking the best fertilizer for flowers is to look at the plant fertilizer numbers. The make-up of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) will be shown in the form of three numbers on any product, and it reflects what the fertilizer will do for plants.

A suitable product to fertilize mandevilla in the spring is a granular, organic, slow-release fertilizer. This should have a balanced NPK of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 and is incorporated into the soil around the plant.

For example, this general-purpose 10-10-10 garden food at Amazon contains all three major nutrients and is ideal for a wide range of plants, including climbers.

During the flowering stage, the nutrient requirements differ, as does the type of fertilizer. At this stage of the season, look for a liquid feed high in phosphorus – so the middle P number will be higher than the others.

A liquid feed delivers nutrients quickly to the plants, but leaches quickly, so it needs to be reapplied every 2-3 weeks. Such fertilizers are mixed with water and applied when you water plants during the summer.

Such a product is this blossom booster at Walmart with an NPK of 10-30-20, which comes with a measuring spoon to use right correct amount of the powdered concentrate.

FAQs

Can I use Miracle-Gro on my mandevilla?

There are Miracle-Gro products suitable for feeding mandevilla. One example is the Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster Flower Food, available at Amazon, which you can use during the flowering season to encourage new buds and blooms. You can also get multi-purpose plant food for use in spring.

Are coffee grounds good for mandevilla plants?

Coffee grounds can be good for plants, as they can provide a boost of nutrients to the soil as they break down. However, coffee grounds will not make a great replacement for any of the fertilizers mentioned above.

Feeding all climbers is essential for the best show, as their fast-growing nature makes them hungry plants. Just like with mandevilla, you need to fertilize passion flowers often for healthy growth and bumper blooms. For these tropical plants, feed in early spring, at the first sign of new growth, and continue to fertilize at least monthly from April until the end of August.

Yellow flowers are often treated a little unfairly in the garden. Just look at a stand of golden dahlias catching the evening sun, or a drift of lemon cosmos buzzing with pollinators, and I think anyone would be hard-pressed to dislike the color. Over the years, I’ve changed my mind on yellow, and these days I find myself reaching for it more and more.

The canary creeper, or Tropaeolum peregrinum, is the ultimate example of this. With flamboyant and frilly blooms, I know that this vibrant vine will inject joy wherever it is planted. Even the most staunch anti-yellow gardener would have to admit, this climber is impressive.

Not only does it look good, but small but mighty bees, butterflies and hummingbirds can’t seem to resist the sweet nectar, too. So, if you are looking for fast-growing climbing plants to add to your plot this year, learning how to grow the Canary creeper is a good idea.

How to grow the Canary creeper

Not only does Tropaeolum peregrinum have yellow flowers the same shade as a canary’s feathers, but the blooms themselves have a frilled, wing-like quality. It’s a fast-growing flowering annual that looks part bird, part bloom – what more could you ask for?

Growing habits of the Canary creeper

'One of the best climbers to grow in pots, this fast-growing, vining annual is perfect for patios and container displays,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening.

'The Canary creeper loves full sun,' Reese adds, 'thriving in rich, well-draining soil and appreciates consistent moisture, but not soggy conditions.

'Here in the US, this underrated climber is best grown as an annual in zones 9 and below, as it's not frost-hardy, but can be treated as a perennial in zones 10 plus.

'I would recommend starting your seeds indoors four to six weeks before your last frost date or direct sow once the soil warms.

'One trick to improve germination is to soak seeds overnight in some lukewarm water,' Reese adds. 'Then, all you need to do is watch it grow – although a trellis will help to direct the vines and blooms.'

Canary creeper seeds are available now via Amazon.

Care guide for the Canary creeper

Soil: Canary creepers can grow in most soils, just make sure that the ground is well-draining and not waterlogged. So long as the drainage is adequate, they can even be grown in poor soils. In pots, use a good quality, fresh compost, combined with a little mulch for the best results. Try something this organic mulch from Back to the Roots, available now via Walmart.

Light: When you plant your Canary creeper outside, it is best to choose a spot with full to partial sun. However, in warmer, sheltered sites, a position with morning sun and afternoon shade will do just fine. Remember that planting in too dark a location can limit growth and inhibit flower production.

Watering: 'As native plants to Peru and Ecuador, these vines can tolerate heat just fine, but for the best results, you want to water these flowering climbers when the top inch of soil is dry, keeping them consistently moist but never waterlogged.'

Fertilizing: 'To maximize blooms, avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers,' Reese says. 'Use a balanced organic feed monthly or a fertilizer high in potash to encourage flower production.' Try something like this bloom booster fertilizer by Dr. Earth, available via Walmart.

Pruning: 'Deadheading isn't really necessary,' Reese adds, 'but it can help to tidy the appearance of your plant. The occasional trim can also help to control size and shape. At the end of the season, you can cut down to the base and lift the roots, adding the green waste to your compost heap.'

Toxicity: It is not considered toxic but may irritate the skin when pruning and handling, so wearing gloves is always recommended.

FAQs

Can I grow the Canary creeper in a hanging basket?

Yes, you can. Canary creepers have a lovely trailing and cascading habit, making them perfect plants for hanging baskets. Just be sure to keep your containers well-watered and fed through the summer months, as they can dry out very quickly.

During the growing season, the Canary creeper will prove popular with native birds, too, so be sure to keep an eye on your vine, especially during the hummingbird migration.

For more plant inspiration, see our guide to some of the easiest climbers to grow in your yard, and fill vertical surfaces with greenery and blooms this year.

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Sage, I think, deserves a place in any backyard. This tough, resilient and aromatic herb is one of my go-to plants that I return to time and again. Alongside lavender and rosemary, it is a must-have if you want to inject some fragrance into pots and borders. The good news is that once you have an established plant, taking sage cuttings is remarkably easy and is the best way to grow more herbs at zero cost.

In Italy, where I worked for a year as a professional gardener, we grew several clumps of sage, all near the garden path. These plants released a soft, earthy scent whenever brushed past (or I would tear a leaf off as I walked by). And, nearly all of these had been grown successfully as cuttings. Sure, you need to have a little patience as opposed to buying larger specimens, but propagating via cuttings is far more enjoyable.

So, if you already know how to grow sage and have a healthy one in your yard, why not also learn how to take sage cuttings this summer? By following my step-by-step guide below, you can double (or triple) your herb collection in the years to come – and who wouldn't want that?

Sage propagation – all you need to know

Common garden sage, or Salvia officinalis, is a popular aromatic herb that can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4. Native to the Mediterranean, sage can thrive in full sun and poor, dry soils, making it a great option for low-maintenance yards.

If you or a garden friend has a healthy sage plant, why not propagate it by taking cuttings this summer? Here's everything I have learned about taking sage cuttings from my years working in private and public gardens.

When to take sage cuttings

The best time to take sage cuttings is in summer, and they are usually considered plants to propagate in July or plants to propagate in August.

I would suggest taking your cuttings on a mild morning, which will improve your chances of success. This is because sage, as with all plants, tends to be more hydrated in the early hours, so your cuttings are less likely to wither if you do this earlier in the day.

How to take sage cuttings

1. To begin taking cuttings, you will need to use some clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars snips from Walmart, or this highly rated Swiss pocket knife from Amazon.
2. Then, identify some healthy green stems. You want to cut off a young shoot (that appears fresh and green). Your cuttings should be around three or more inches in length, with two or more leaves on the top. When you make each cutting, I would suggest dropping them in a bucket of water as you work to prevent them from wilting.
3. Once you have half a dozen cuttings in your bucket, you can then take them to your garden shed or greenhouse, wherever you have your pots and soil. Then, strip the foliage from each cutting, leaving just two small leaves at the top of each stem. Tidy up any bottom cuts, making them diagonal and just underneath a leaf joint, which is where roots will develop.
4. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help with the development of roots. I have had success with or without rooting hormone, so it is really up to you, but if you do decide to use it, simply dip the bottom half an inch of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon.
5. Next, plant your cuttings in well-drained potting mix. To improve drainage, I would suggest adding a handful of grit to your soil. You can add four or more cuttings to a single small pot, but make sure the foliage is not touching.
6. Give your cuttings a good watering, and then, place them in a cold frame or greenhouse, keeping them out of direct sunlight. Don't let the soil dry out, but also avoid watering if the soil is damp. Cuttings can easily rot if the soil is waterlogged.
7. Your cuttings should produce roots within two or three weeks. To check, carefully wiggle the cuttings to see if they have rooted or not. If there are roots, you can repot them into small containers of their own, where they can remain until next spring.

FAQs

Can I root sage cuttings in water?

Yes, you can try to root sage cuttings in water. I have had mixed results with rooting this herb in water (and done far better with soil, as outlined above), but you can easily have a go.

Simply take your cuttings, clear the bottom two-thirds of the stems, and place them in a vase, using something like this attractive cutting vase, available via Amazon, which will help to support your sage stems due to its narrow neck.

Place the cuttings in a bright position, and with any luck, you should spot white roots within a few weeks.

There are so many plants to take cuttings from, and you will be surprised at how easy (and enjoyable) propagation can be.

My final tip would be to have patience. Sometimes cuttings can fail due to no fault of your own, and sometimes they can root within a matter of days. So, have a go, and if you fail, try and try again.

For more propagation inspiration, see our guide on how to take lantana cuttings and fill your yard with even more colorful flowers this year (for free).

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When darkness falls and you are sleeping, there is still lots of activity going on in your garden. Night-time pollinators are hard at work going from plant to plant doing valuable work, and they could do with a helping hand. That starts with having flowers that fit their schedule, such as with these native plants for night-time pollinators.

Moths don’t appear in lots of headlines, but they are important pollinators. There are thousands of species of moths, and they spread pollen as they go from plant to plant in search of nectar. These efficient night-time pollinators are joined by the likes of bats, nocturnal bees, and beetles that are active during evening and darkness.

If you want to create a moon garden that glows at night and supports these nocturnal pollinators, or simply add plants suitable for these hardworking and underrated creatures, there are great options available. This guide to native plants for night-time pollinators highlights plants with fragrant night-time blooms, flowers in shades suited to nocturnal insects, and ones perfectly shaped for the tongues of moths.

What are night-time pollinators?

When most people hear pollinators, they will think of bees, butterflies, hoverflies, or even hummingbirds. They may not instantly consider moths, bats, and beetles that do their pollinating during evenings and night-time, and do it highly efficiently.

You may not see them as often, but those pollinators out and about during the hours of darkness make important contributions to your garden. To help them out, if you are developing a garden for pollinators, consider adding plants that bloom at night and have a strong fragrance when they do.

Why not make your backyard a beacon for nocturnal pollinators by adding one or two of these suggestions?

1. Moonflower

Moonflower (Ipomoea alba) is a perennial vine native to tropical and subtropical regions of North and South America, from Argentina to Northern Mexico, Arizona, and Florida. This dramatic flowering vine climbs 10-15 feet and produces huge, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom through the night.

The flowers appear from early summer until fall, emitting a sweet fragrance that attracts night-time pollinators, before they close once morning comes. It is the strong, jasmine-like smell that attracts night-time pollinators, which rely more on smell than sight to locate the flowers of night-scented plants.

Moonflower vines are hardy in US hardiness zones 10-12, but the fast-growing climbing plants are often grown as annuals in cooler climates. Their ability to quickly cover trellises or fences makes them ideal for vertical gardens.

You can get giant moonflower seeds at Amazon to sow at home and grow your own plants for night-time pollinators to enjoy.

2. Evening primrose

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) is a native biennial plant to eastern and central North America.

The flowers start to open at dusk, making it a fantastic plant to attract moths, which become active at the same time. The aromatic pale flowers are pale pink, white, or yellow and perfectly visible to night-time pollinators in low light.

Evening primrose is suitable for US hardiness zones 4-9, and clumps grow to around three or four feet. They can make a great ground cover plant for pollinators, as evening primrose is tolerant of many soil types, provided it drains well.

However, evening primrose is a self-seeding flower. It means you need to manage the plants to prevent them spreading. Do this by deadheading flowers regularly to prevent the plant from producing seeds.

This Bigfruit Evening Primrose at Nature Hills, also known as Missouri evening primrose, produces lemon yellow flowers to attract hawk, hummingbird, and sphinx moths and other evening pollinators.

3. Honeysuckle

The sweet fragrance when growing honeysuckles intensifies as the light levels drop, making them ideal plants for night-time pollinators, particularly moths.

The flowering climbers are easy to grow, but do need to be trained up a wall, trellis, fence, or pergola. If you have a smaller backyard but want to cover an unsightly wall, you can grow honeysuckles in pots.

There are over 150 species of honeysuckles native to various regions, with several native plants to North America. You must be aware that some honeysuckles are considered invasive plants in North America, including the Japanese honeysuckle, Amur honeysuckle, and Tartarian honeysuckle.

Stick to native varieties, as there is a great selection of non-invasive honeysuckles you can add to your backyard ideas. For example, the yellow honeysuckle (Lonicera flava) is native to central and eastern North America and produces lovely fragrant clusters of yellow-orange flowers.

Alternatively, this Dropmore Scarlet honeysuckle at Nature Hills is a Lonicera x brownii cultivar, which is a hybrid between two native honeysuckles, namely Lonicera sempervirens and Lonicera hirsuta.

4. Nicotiana

Nicotiana, also commonly known as tobacco plants, are fantastic for attracting moths. Their star-shaped, tubular blooms are ideal for the long tube-like mouthpart of moths, and these fragrant flowers open each evening.

Nicotiana is commonly grown as an annual flower, but it can be perennial in zones 10 and above. It thrives in full sun and can potentially bloom from early summer right through to the first frosts.

There are several types of flowering tobacco native to North America to pick from. These include the coyote tobacco (Nicotiana attenuata), native to western states and producing pinky flowers with greenish throats, and desert tobacco (Nicotiana obtusifolia), a shorter variety native to southwestern states with white flowers.

5. Phlox paniculata

Phlox paniculata, also often called garden phlox or perennial phlox, is native to eastern and central North America, and a popular ornamental addition to flower beds thanks to its showy summer blooms.

Reaching 2-4 feet, depending on the variety, the large flowers come in various colors, including white, red, pink, and purple, and are suitable for long-tongued pollinators, such as moths.

When you grow phlox, they are highly fragrant throughout the day and well into the evening, ideal for those night-time pollinators out seeking nectar as the sun goes down. The plants bloom in summer, and you can extend that into fall by regularly deadheading phlox.

A great variety you can add to your garden is Phlox 'David'. This white-blooming phlox is suitable for zones 4-8, reaches four feet tall, and is covered in large white flowers. You can get Phlox 'David' live plants at Burpee.

Thinking about moths should continue on past summer or fall, after the peak blooming season has ended. There are winter plants for wildlife you can add to your yard to benefit moths through the colder months. For example, some ornamental grasses and evergreen ferns left untrimmed can provide protected spots for moth larvae to overwinter.

Learning how to take honeysuckle cuttings in summer is simple, satisfying and one of the easiest ways to multiply your favourite climbers without spending any money. July is the ideal moment, when growth is soft but strong, and a small, healthy stem can go on to become a vigorous plant in future years.

I have grown honeysuckles for many years, ranging from the yellow-flowering 'Graham Thomas' in borders, to the dark pink 'Dart's World' in a large patio pot. For me, honeysuckles offer unrivalled scent and color, and if you or a gardening friend has one in the yard, taking one or two cuttings in summer is surely a worthwhile investment that future you will be grateful for.

So, if you already know how to grow honeysuckle and have one to hand, why not also learn how to take honeysuckle cuttings this year? By following my simple steps below (and with a small amount of luck), you will be enjoying masses of honeysuckle blooms for years to come.

When and how to take honeysuckle cuttings

Most, but not all, honeysuckles are hardy down to zone 4 or zone 5, thriving in a range of light and soil situations.

Honeysuckles bloom during spring and early summer, and while it will depend on the honeysuckle variety you grow, most are excellent plants to take cuttings from.

Follow my step-by-step guide below to learn how to take honeysuckle cuttings.

When to take honeysuckle cuttings

In terms of propagation timings for these fast-growing climbing plants, semi-ripe cuttings can be taken from your vines during summer when there is plenty of new growth.

So, honeysuckles are best thought of as plants to propagate in July or August. I would suggest doing this during the morning, on a day when the weather is mild.

While you can take cuttings at any time, gardeners usually opt for the morning because plants tend to be more hydrated, so they are less likely to wither or wilt in the propagation process.

Step-by-step honeysuckle propagation

1. Using clean, sharp tools, like these Felco F4 pruning snips from Walmart, take your honeysuckle cuttings, identifying woody stems that are still slightly flexible. Long, whippy green stems are best avoided for cuttings, as they cannot retain moisture, so are more likely to wilt in the process. Simply snip a stem with several leaves on, roughly 12 or more inches long, dropping it in a bucket of water as you work.
2. Next, cut the honeysuckle stem into pieces with three or four leaf joints, snipping just underneath a leaf joint and just above one. Retain one or two leaves at the top of your cutting; strip any that remain lower down.
3. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help to encourage root development. Simply dip the bottom inch of each honeysuckle cutting in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon, before planting the bottom half of the cutting into small pots filled with well-drained potting mix. Adding a bit of grit to your potting mix is a good idea to help improve drainage (your cuttings can easily rot at this stage).
4. Give your pot/s a good watering, and then place your honeysuckle cuttings in a cold frame or an unheated greenhouse, out of direct sunlight.
5. Keep your honeysuckle cuttings moist but not waterlogged, monitoring the soil every few days by pressing your fingers into the pot. In July and August, the soil can quickly dry out, so you want to prevent this from happening.
6. Your cuttings should produce roots within four weeks, at which point, you can carefully repot them into an individual container. I would keep them like this until the following spring, when they will be ready for planting into the border or a larger pot.

FAQs

Are there any invasive honeysuckles to avoid propagating?

While most honeysuckle varieties are recommended for propagation, one to watch out for is Japanese honeysuckle, or Lonicera japonica, which is considered an invasive climber in several US states, including Texas and Florida.

While growing in pots is a good way to manage vigorous and aggressive climbers, be sure to contact your local government office to understand what species you should and should not grow.

You will be surprised how quickly your honeysuckle cuttings will grow during the following spring and summer. They typically bloom in the second or third year, and if you are lucky, you might enjoy a handful of fragrant flowers in record time.

Why not also learn how to grow honeysuckle in pots, which is a good option for your young cuttings, particularly if you have a smaller yard. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

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Hummingbirds are a welcome sight in any garden. These glorious creatures are not only beautiful, but they are prolific pollinators, visiting huge numbers of flowers each day in search of nectar.

Many climbers attract hummingbirds, though arguably none do it better than mandevilla. The tropical, showy climbers have the perfect flowers for hummingbirds, which adore the color and shape of the mandevilla blooms.

If you want a low-maintenance, high-impact climber that will attract lots of hummingbirds throughout the season, you should look no further than growing mandevilla. We take a close look at exactly why hummingbirds like mandevilla so much, and how you can care for the plant to get the most out of those attractive blooms.

Are hummingbirds attracted to mandevilla?

Mandevilla is a very popular flowering climber used in many people’s backyard ideas. Hailing from Central and South America, these tropical stunners are fast-growing climbing plants that can quickly cover a fence, arch, pergola, or wall for a show of bright, long-lasting flowers.

‘Mandevilla is a tropical vine grown for its vibrant, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom throughout the warm months,’ says Tatiana Anderson, tropical plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals. ‘This fast-growing climber thrives in warm climates and adds a stunning display of color to gardens and patios.’

It is those vivid blooms that make mandevilla hugely attractive to hummingbirds. And it is not only hummingbirds that like mandevilla, the flowers are also adored by butterflies and bees.

The mandevilla flowers are highly visible and nectar-rich, two key characteristics in making them incredibly attractive to hummingbirds. They come in bright colors, including red, orange, pink, yellow, and white. Red blooms, in particular, are always a beacon for hummingbirds, while they are also drawn to bright colors like pink and orange.

If you are looking for a variety to attract hummingbirds, the good news is that there are many red options available among the over 160 known species of mandevilla.

‘Mandevillas are a tropical delight for every garden or patio,’ says Gail Pabst from the National Garden Bureau. ‘There are many red-flowered varieties available, including the likes of Madinia Elegant Velvet Red or Sun Parasol Giant Crimson, which are some of my favorites.’

Another key reason why hummingbirds like mandevilla is that the blooms are trumpet-shaped; this is the perfect shape for hummingbirds.

They have long beaks and tongues that can easily access the nectar contained inside trumpet blooms. It means, as well as mandevilla, other flowers with a similar shape, like trumpet vines, are welcome additions for hummingbirds.

Gail Pabst describes mandevilla as ‘low-maintenance vines that bloom continuously until fall’.

That long-blooming season must make them one of the best plants for pollinators, as you can potentially see large numbers of hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees throughout the year, including during the annual hummingbird migration in late summer.

How you grow the hummingbird magnet will depend on your climate. Mandevilla is a tender plant that is only perennial in the warmer climates of US hardiness zones 9 and above, but there are other options available.

You can grow mandevilla in pots in cooler climates, where you overwinter plants indoors and bring them outside for the summer months. Mandevilla can also be grown as annuals thanks to their fast-growing nature.

For happy mandevilla plants that flower profusely, plant them in a sunny spot and rich, well-draining soil.

Keep the soil consistently moist and feed the plants with a water-soluble balanced fertilizer every few weeks during the blooming season to encourage a long season of blooms.

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Now you know why hummingbirds like mandevilla, you may feel inspired to do some planting that will attract more hummingbirds to your backyard. If so, we want to help.

These articles on the best perennials to attract hummingbirds and the best native spring flowers for hummingbirds reveal a selection of flowers to pick from. Adding these plants means color, texture, and fragrance, as well as bringing hummingbirds and other pollinators to your flower beds and borders.

When I worked as a gardener in Italy, one of the most spectacular sights was a vast wisteria walkway that I cared for. Ten or more mature plants, hanging with pendulous pale lilac and purple blooms that were trained over a metal framework. Believe me, the scent in May was intoxicating.

While these specimens were grown in the ground, I also grew several potted wisterias, too. Large, terracotta vases, planted with white-flowered wisteria varieties, trained carefully over metal obelisks. And, while smaller in stature, these pots were no less impressive.

So, even if you have a small yard, balcony or patio, learning how to grow wisteria in pots is possible, and can actually make maintenance a whole lot easier. Here, I share everything I know about the rules to follow when growing in containers, including recommendations on my favorite varieties.

How to grow wisteria in pots

There are so many climbers to grow in pots, from star jasmine to trumpet vine, clematis to honeysuckle. If anything, we gardeners are spoiled for choice.

Wisteria might not be your first thought when seeking vines for containers, but this vigorous flowering plant can grow just fine in a pot, so long as a few simple rules are abided by.

Growing wisteria in pots

In my experience, wisteria are some of the easiest climbers to grow, so long as they enjoy a sunny nook or corner in the yard. There are many different species to choose from, including white and lilac options.

You may have come across the popular 'Amethyst Fall' variety, for instance, which is highly valued for its fragrance and will flower in its first year.

Live 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria plants are available from Perfect Plant Nursery via Amazon.

For a North American native plant, opt for the American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, which can be planted down to zone 5, and is another brilliant bloomer.

More commonly seen, both the Chinese wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, and Japanese wisteria, Wisteria floribunda, can also be grown in pots down to zone 5, although these two species can spread rapidly and are considered invasive climbers in several US states.

While growing in pots is a good way to control the spread of fast-growing climbing plants, I would always recommend doing your homework before choosing which species is right for you and the region you live in.

Next, you need to pick the right pot. With wisteria, bigger is always better. Remember that wisteria vines are vigorous growers and can produce extensive root networks, so go for a large container, at least 18 to 24 inches wide and deep. This will prevent you from having to repot for a few years.

Then, using something like this organic potting soil from Whitney Farms, available at Walmart, fill your pot, combining the mix with some horticultural grit or gravel for drainage.

Plant your young wisteria specimen in early spring or fall when temperatures are mild. And crucially, give it something to climb: an obelisk, a sturdy trellis, or even a metal frame.

Ongoing care for wisteria in pots

During the first few months, deep watering is encouraged, just to help your vine settle into its new home.

You’ll need to tie in wisteria shoots as they grow, guiding the plant to form the shape you want. Left alone, they can become a little unruly.

In terms of how to prune wisteria, pot specimens will need regular pruning to keep them manageable.

Cut back long shoots in summer, leaving around five to six buds or so per shoot. Then, in late winter, prune your wisteria again, shortening those same shoots back to two to three buds. Just think: moderate prune in summer to tidy up the plant, hard prune in winter to keep the plant compact and flowering well.

Ideally, you want to repot your wisteria every three years, lifting your vine out of its container in early spring, moving it to a bigger container and refreshing the compost.

With the right care, a potted wisteria can thrive for decades, adding height, scent and structure to even the smallest outdoor spaces.

FAQs

Should I fertilize wisteria plants in pots?

In general, it is not necessary to fertilize wisteria vines in the ground, as they can access what they need from the soil. However, pot-grown climbers rely on you, the gardener, for their water and nutrition. So, during spring and summer, it is a good idea to provide a monthly feed for your wisteria plants, using an organic all-purpose feed.

Most wisteria species do not need protecting in the winter, and can cope just fine with ice, snow and frost. However, just keep an eye on your pot displays during winter, and, if necessary, bring the pots to sheltered areas where they are slightly more protected from winds and cold weather.

For more inspiration, see our guide on how to grow star jasmine in pots, and fill fences and walls in your yard with fragrance this summer.

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Climbers can transform any garden, whatever the size. Whether you have a small urban balcony or large rural plot, using one or two of the easiest climbers that are fast-growing and resilient will help to maximize greenery and create a lush (and living) backdrop.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted and maintained many different climbing plants and understand the value they bring to any garden. Whether you enjoy the fragrance of star jasmine or the colorful canopy of Virginia creeper, not only can climbers soften hard landscaping, they add visual interest to outside spaces. And, let's face it, no one wants to see bare walls and empty fences when they look out of the window.

Here, I share five of the easiest climbers to grow, including some of the easiest perennial and evergreen vining plants, each offering a unique combination of beauty and practicality. So, whether you are a novice gardener or simply looking for low-maintenance solutions, these climbers will make an impact.

Easiest climbers to grow

When choosing the best climbers to grow in pots or borders, it’s important to consider what works best for your yard. The climate, US hardiness zone and the growth habits of the species you want to grow should all be understood to avoid gardening mishaps. Many flowering climbers, for example, like full sun, while some evergreens might prefer part-shade. With the right selection, the vertical surfaces in your yard will soon be transformed. Here are five of the easiest climbers to grow, with tips and advice from expert gardeners.

1. Creeping fig

One of the easiest climbers to cover a bare wall is the creeping fig, available to order from Perfect Plants nursery. 'The creeping fig, Ficus pumila, would be a great choice if you are looking for low-maintenance vines,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

'It is a fast-growing vine that can effectively fill fences, walls and pergolas with evergreen foliage,' Alex adds, 'eventually reaching a mature size of 10 to 15 feet. It prefers partial to full shade and is adaptable to a variety of soil types.

'In cooler regions you may experience some defoliation in the colder months, but generally speaking, from US hardiness zone 8 and above, this species is evergreen, making for an ideal choice if you are seeking winter climber ideas.

'Regular watering, especially during dry spells, will help establish the vine,' Alex says. 'It's important to prune creeping fig regularly to maintain its growth and prevent it from spreading beyond its designated area, which can be done at any time of year.'

2. Star Jasmine

'Star jasmine is always a popular choice with gardeners,' Alex continues. 'Often thought of as one of the best evergreen climbers, star jasmine, or Trachelospermum jasminoides, will fill you yard with lush foliage and fragrant flowers in spring and summer.

'In terms of learning how to grow star jasmine, it can be planted from US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10. It is an adaptable vine that can be grown in various light and soil conditions,' Alex adds. Star jasmine live plants can be ordered online at Perfect Plants nursery.

'Be sure to use a sturdy trellis or support structure for star jasmine to climb, however, to prevent this climber toppling over. Regular pruning can help control its growth and shape, which is best done after the blooming period.'

3. Chilean Potato Vine

The Chilean potato vine, or Solanum crispum, is certainly one of the easiest climbers to grow. Here in the UK, it can often be seen tumbling over garden walls and filling vertical structures with attractive lilac blooms in summer.

Native to South America, it thrives in US hardiness zone 9 plus, preferring a sunny position and moist but well draining soil. This species could be grown in a pot and protected during the winter, which might be the best option if you reside in a cooler area, such as US hardiness zone 5.

As seen in the images here, the Chilean potato vine produces dense clusters of small, purple-blue flowers with bright yellow centers throughout the summer. Pruning your vine after flowering, usually around August or September, will encourage healthy growth and keep it under control.

Many Solanaceae species, otherwise known as the nightshade family, are considered poisonous plants as they contain alkaloids. Keep an eye on pets and children if you grow the Chilean potato vine, as all parts are toxic and if consumed in large doses, can be fatal. For more information, Wicked Plants by Amy Stewart is a fascinating read, available from Amazon.

4. Virginia creeper

Virginia Creeper, or Parthenocissus quinquefolia, is unrivalled when its comes to fall foliage. This climbing plant is famed for its spectacular crimson red-orange display from October, which looks particularly impactful when covering exterior walls.

Versatile and resilient, this vine can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, tolerating sun or shade and thriving in a wide range of soils. Despite losing its leaves in winter, the bare structure of the plant can maintain garden interest, even in December and January.

Once established, Virginia creeper requires little maintenance, although I would suggest pruning every year to control its spread. Older vines with expansive spreads can pose a risk to exterior walls, as the weight of the climber may damage fragile masonry or fencing. Be sure to support your vines by regularly tying them in.

Virginia creeper live plants are available to order from Amazon.

5. Passion Flower

Growing best from US hardiness zone 6 to zone 10, passion flowers are the ultimate flowering climber. 'There are approximately 600 species of passion flower, and many hundreds of hybrids as well,' says Myles Stewart Irvine, garden expert and passion flower breeder.

'For cooler regions, try the native Passiflora incarnata - or the maypop - that can even cope with zone 5,' Myles says. 'In terms of learning how to grow passion flowers, most love full sun and free draining soil. They are also natural climbers so will readily grow up trellis, garden wires, mesh or even bamboo canes.'

Be warned, however, that Passiflora incarnata is considered an invasive climber by some as it can 'throw up runners everywhere, as indeed can the common passion flower Passiflora caerulea,' Myles adds. Growing in a pot can help to reduce this threat.

'Hybrids are a better option as they usually produce few runners and less fruit,' Myles says. 'Of course, I recommend my hybrids: ‘Betty Myles Young’, ‘Damsel’s Delight’ and ’Snow Queen'.

For another unusual hybrid, try growing this 'Scarlet Flame' passion flower, available from Amazon. With crimson petals, this fragrant climber will steal the show wherever it is planted.

FAQs

What are the easiest climbers to grow in containers?

If you are short on space and looking to grow climbers in pots, stick with flowering vines that can add impact and color. Passion flowers are the obvious choice but do require warmer weather to thrive. If you reside in a cooler region, try growing the evergreen clematis, Clematis armandii, which will provide year-round greenery as well as fragrant white blooms in spring. Clematis armandii plants are available to order online from Amazon.

Whatever climbers you grow, be sure to tie in old and new shoots before the fall and winter months. Strong winds, heavy rain and snow can damage stems, so it is best to loosely tie plants to garden walls, fences and structures, to avoid gardening disappointment. I recommend using a product like these reusable Velcro ties from Amazon, which are incredibly effective.

Looking for some more fool-proof plants to fill your yard with greenery this year? Check out our guide to the easiest evergreen trees to grow, which will retain foliage year-round, meaning that your borders will stay full of color and structure, whatever the season.

Climbing plants are useful additions to our outside spaces. Even in small terraces or on balconies, growing vertically can maximize greenery. Think fragrant jasmine flowers perfuming the air in the summertime or romantic climbing roses draped over a pergola. Some climbers, however, are considered invasive plants, growing at an alarming rate, self-propagating and out-competing other species.

As a former professional gardener, I have grown and cared for hundreds of climbing plants in several gardens across the UK. While most climbers are manageable and can be contained, some are more problematic. I once had to battle with an overgrown Virginia creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia, that had covered the exterior walls of a home in London. Over time, it had swamped and killed other plants. Invasive climbers like this, therefore, should be avoided.

Here, I reveal some of the most problematic invasive climbers to avoid planting in your yard, with suggestions on what species to opt for instead. So, if you have already done your homework on what invasive perennials or invasive weeds to keep out of your borders, our guide has all the information you need to know about invasive climbers to keep out of your plot.

Invasive climbers to never plant

There are approximately 150 vines that are considered invasive plants across North America. While many of these produce attractive foliage or brilliant blooms, these vigorous invasive climbers can quickly cause problems. Here, we reveal five species to avoid, while also providing alternative climbing plant suggestions that can be grown without any fear of them dominating.

1. Maypop

'Passion flowers are prized for their beautiful, striking blooms,' says Myles Stewart Irvine, garden expert and passion flower breeder. 'Some, however, are considered remarkably aggressive vines across the United States and should be avoided by gardeners.

'While it is a native plant, the Maypop, Passiflora incarnata, as seen above, can become a nuisance,' Myles adds. 'It is remarkably vigorous and will throw up runners everywhere, much like the common passion flower, Passiflora caerulea. Another species, Passiflora biflora, produces masses of white flowers that are charming, but this vigorous species is considered dangerous in Florida.'

Myles recommends growing passion flower hybrids instead of straight species, as they tend to produce fewer runners and fruits. There are many to pick from, but ’Snow Queen', ‘Clear Sky’ and ‘Lady Margaret’ are all good colorful options that can be grown in sunny spots from US hardiness zone 8 plus.

For an unusual option, try this 'Scarlet Flame' passionflower, available from Amazon, which produces bright red blooms. As a hybrid, this passionflower species can easily be kept in check.

2. Sweet autumn clematis

While the sweet autumn clematis, Clematis terniflora, has attractive white flowers and intricate seedheads in the fall and winter, this species is considered a problematic vining plant across North America. Today, this clematis is categorized as invasive in many states, including Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Maryland, New Jersey, Tennessee and Virginia.

If you only have one or two small plants, annual pruning to the base will keep them under control, although the sap is a skin irritant so be sure to wear strong, thick gardening gloves, like these from Amazon. You will need to remove the roots if you want to prevent this clematis from returning, although for larger infestations, it is probably advisable to seek professional help.

Instead, if you are looking to grow clematis vines this year, consider planting pale leather flowers. 'These are some of our best native clematis vines,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'They have unusual, vase-like blooms, and can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 plus, ideally in a full-sun or part-shade position.' Clematis crispa, or the swamp leather flower, seeds are available from Amazon.

3. Japanese honeysuckle

Native to Asia, the Japanese honeysuckle, Lonicera japonica, is perhaps one of the most prevalent vines found growing across North America. Originally introduced to New York in the 1800s, this species can today be seen throughout much of the United States.

Japanese honeysuckle is found as far north as US hardiness zone 4 and thrives in both sun, shade and poor soils, meaning it can thrive almost anywhere. It is reported as invasive in many states, including Maine, Florida, Wisconsin and Texas.

Small Japanese honeysuckle infestations can be controlled, typically by cutting the vines and removing the roots. Larger infestations can be more problematic, but strimming or mowing can be used to clear overgrown areas. Repeating this will eventually weaken and kill the plant.

If you are keen to grow honeysuckle, choose instead one of the best honeysuckles that are less vigorous, such as Florida Dutch honeysuckle, Lonicera periclymenum ‘Florida’ (syn. Lonicera periclymenum ‘Serotina’). This species can be grown from zone 5 to zone 9, and with richly scented yellow and red flowers, it is a real showstopper. Live honeysuckle plants are available from Amazon.

4. Chocolate Vine

With striking crimson-chocolate flowers that produce a slightly spiced fragrance, it is hard not to be impressed by the chocolate vine. I cared for a large specimen when working at the Garden Museum in London four years ago, which fortunately was grown separately from the main borders, meaning that it did not send up runners or shoots in other parts of the garden.

When left unchecked, however, the chocolate vine, Akebia quinata, is a fast-growing flowering vine that is classified as invasive in many states, including Kentucky.

Once established, the chocolate vine can grow through other plants, creating a tangled mess. If there is nothing to support it, this species can also form an impenetrable ground cover. While beautiful, it is always best to consult with your local government office to ascertain whether this climber should or should not be grown.

If this species is considered invasive in your region, opt to grow the native trumpet honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens, which has striking coral blooms that produce a heady scent. This vigorous but not invasive honeysuckle can grow from US hardiness zone 4 plus and has a preference for part-shade. Trumpet honeysuckle live plants are available from Amazon.

5. Trumpet vine

Native to the eastern United States, the trumpet vine, Campsis radicans, is considered an invasive climber across much of North America. While it produces brilliant and brightly colored blooms, it has a tendency to clamber up trees and shrubs quickly and can grow in excess of 40 feet.

What's more, trumpet vine shoots produce aerial roots that allow them to attach easily to any surface. This can damage exterior walls and fences and prove challenging when removing this vigorous vine.

Instead, consider growing one of the best aster varieties, Ampelaster carolinianus, otherwise known as the climbing aster. This unusual native plant can be grown from US hardiness zone 6, with a preference for a sunny position. During summer, your vertical surfaces will be full of lilac daisy flowers, often lasting late into the fall.

FAQs

Are wisteria climbers considered invasive?

Both the Chinese wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, and the Japanese wisteria, Wisteria floribunda, are deemed to be invasive climbers in the United States, including in Texas, Illinois and Florida. Both of these species are fast-growing and can produce a large amount of shoots and runners each year which are difficult to control. Instead, try growing the native American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, which has a less vigorous nature. This species grows best in full sun in zones 5 to 9. American wisteria live starter plants are available from Amazon.

If you have just moved into a new home and your yard is covered with problematic climbers, such as a Virginia creeper covering the entire fence, you should take action quickly.

For smaller-scale problems, you can cut back and dig out unwanted vines, using a spade to remove as much of the root ball as possible. If you have a large-scale problem, however, it is often best to call in a professional.

For more information on problematic plants, see our guide on invasive bulbs that can quickly propagate and become a nuisance in any backyard.

The Wisteria genus is a small plant family made up of only four species. Three of these are found growing in Asia, while one, Wisteria frutescens, commonly known as American wisteria, is native to many states across North America, including Virginia, Texas and Florida. All species are prized for producing perfumed clusters of purple or white flowers that emerge in late spring to early summer, often seen covering garden walls, fences and pergolas.

Whatever species is in your yard, it is important to know what to do with wisteria in the fall. As the days get shorter and the temperature drops, there are a handful of crucial tasks to complete to ensure that your climbing plants return better than ever next year.

As a former professional gardener, I have cared for many different varieties, most recently tending to an extensive pergola walkway covered by Japanese wisteria, Wisteria floribunda 'Alba', in the Pienza region of Tuscany. This tough and resilient species was able to tolerate scorching summers and frozen winters, but some key tasks in October and November formed an important part of my seasonal checklist. Here, I reveal how best to care for these fast-growing climbing plants in the fall.

What to do with wisteria in the fall

When considering how to grow wisteria, these drought-tolerant climbing vines are remarkably hardy, surviving scorching summers and snowy winters. By following a few simple steps in the fall, you can ensure that your climber returns better than ever the following year, with a bounty of fragrant flowers.

1. Mulch your wisteria plants

Wisteria plants are hardy down to US hardiness zone 5. Generally, these climbers do not need protection from cold weather during fall and winter, tolerating temperatures down to -15°C/5°F. However, in cooler regions, such as Illinois, New York, Pennsylvania and Michigan, providing some winter protection around the roots is a good idea.

'Wisteria should be mulched in the fall to help protect the roots from colder temperatures during the winter months ahead,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'Mulching is especially important in climates where wisteria is borderline hardy, such as US hardiness zone 4, including Montana, Alaska, North Dakota and Minnesota.

'Mulching will also help water retention during the dormancy period, and improve soil health and soil structure in the year ahead, which can result in better blooming the following year.'

Mulch and compost sacks are available from Amazon.

2. Tie in but do not prune wisteria stems

'Wisteria should not be pruned in the fall,' Katie continues. 'It is best to wait until winter, usually around February, when the plant is completely dormant before reaching for your pruning snips. It is also much easier to see where to prune once all the leaves have fallen, so it is best to sit back and enjoy the golden foliage display in the fall.'

While pruning is to be avoided at this time, it is a good idea to learn how to train and tie in wisteria shoots. During October, November and December, stormy weather and strong winds can damage your wisteria, so taking the time to tie in any long, loose or unsupported stems can help to protect your climber.

There are many suitable products available online, such as this garden twine, available from Amazon that is easy to use and cost-effective. Loosely tie in stems to your framework, trellis or fence, ensuring the stems can move a small amount. Tying too tightly can damage your plant.

3. Remove wisteria seed pods

Many wisteria species are vigorous and can be classed as an invasive plant if left unmaintained. For example, the Chinese wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, is a fast-growing plant that can cause problems if left unpruned or allowed to set seed.

For this reason, it is a good idea to remove wisteria seed pods during the fall, before they scatter and germinate around your yard. Simply trim brown seed pods, as seen in the image here, during the fall. Use clean, sharp tools, such as these Felco pruning snips, available from Amazon, and collect the pods in a bucket.

If you want to grow more wisteria plants, be sure to harvest and save the seed, or if unwanted, dispose of the pods in your green waste collection. One composting mistake to avoid would be tossing these seed pods onto your compost heap, as they can germinate and grow in the fertile, rich soil.

FAQs

Should I water wisteria plants in the fall?

Watering wisteria up until the ground is completely frozen is important to help provide enough moisture over fall and winter. If the top half an inch of the soil is dry, it should be watered. Once the ground is frozen, watering is no longer necessary.

Should I protect a pot-grown wisteria?

'The soil in a pot will freeze much sooner than soil in your borders,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This can cause harm and affect the health of your plant the following spring.' While it is tricky to move a climbing plant, it can be a good idea to protect the base of the plant, either by mulching your pot or by using a frost protection cover, available from Amazon.

It is not necessary to fertilize wisteria during the fall months. Feeding at this time can do more harm than good. As a member of the pea family, Fabaceae, wisteria plants are nitrogen-fixing, so the roots of the plant produce nitrogen that the plant can then use. Along with a fresh application of mulch, your plant will have all the goodness it needs to make it through to spring.

For more inspiration and advice, see our guide on how to grow wisteria from cuttings, to try your hands at propagating this popular climbing plant.

If you grow bougainvillea in your yard, you have probably enjoyed a long summer season of vibrant blooms. There are over 300 varieties of bougainvillea, found in shades of pink, white, yellow, orange and red, perfect for adding color to a sunny, south-facing wall or fence.

Whatever color or variety you grow, whether neon pink or pristine white, it is important to know how to care for your climbing plant during the fall. Those long summer days are now but a distant memory, with strong winds, heavy rainfall and plummeting temperatures common during the fall months.

As tender climbers that are best suited to US hardiness zones 9 to 11, your bougainvillea will need protection during the fall and winter, especially in cooler regions. So, whether your plant is in the ground or perhaps you grow bougainvillea in pots, there are a few simple steps to be completed in the fall that will ensure your plants return better than ever next year.

What to do with bougainvillea in the fall

Native to tropical regions in South America, including Brazil and Argentina, bougainvillea plants do not respond well to cool temperatures, heavy rain or stormy weather. With a preference for sunshine and warmth, thriving in regions found in US hardiness zone 10, bougainvillea plants require a little love and attention during the fall. Follow our three simple steps here to learn how to care for and grow bougainvillea as the seasons change.

1. Keep watering your bougainvillea

'Bougainvillea are some of the best climbing plants that love sunny, warm and dry weather,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center. 'Allow them to dry out in between waterings, but infrequent deep waterings in fall will help your plants through winter dormancy.'

As Bert says, though bougainvilleas prefer dry, warm conditions, you should still water during the fall, particularly if there is little rainfall. I suggest continuing to provide water until the first frost arrives. In cooler weather, less water will be needed, but keeping your plant sufficiently hydrated is recommended.

One handy tool to keep an eye on watering is a soil moisture meter, available from Walmart, which will reveal when the soil is dry and when you need to get the watering can out of the garden shed. As a general guide, reduce watering from September once flowering has finished, watering once or twice a month.

2. Move bougainvillea pots to a sheltered location

'Bougainvillea plants like sun and warmth in the spring and summer,' says Sam Niemann, garden expert and founder of Grown by Design, a boutique landscape design firm based in San Diego, and Bleume, a plant fertilizer start-up. 'In October and November, it is a good idea to move potted plants to a sheltered corner of the yard, or indoors to a conservatory or greenhouse,' Sam adds.

Generally speaking, bougainvillea plants don't like the temperature dropping below 50°F/10°C, so it is best to first move any pots closer to your home, or near a protective exterior wall in September or October. Towards November, it is best to move the pot indoors, particularly if you reside in cooler regions like US hardiness zone 7 or below.

If you live in a warm, southerly region and your bougainvillea is planted in the ground, monitor the weather for any unexpected snow or frost. In extreme years when the fall and winter temperatures drop, consider using a frost cloth, available from Walmart, which can help to keep your plant in good health.

3. Mulch your soil

Mulching in the fall is a good idea as it will help protect your bougainvillea plants during the colder months of the year. Add a layer of good quality pine or straw mulch around the base of your climbers in the fall months, doing so before winter gets underway. Pine bark mulch is available from Walmart.

Whether grown in borders or pots, I suggest applying a thick one to two-inch layer of mulch around the base, making sure to leave a small gap around the stem to prevent moisture buildup that can damage the trunk. This will improve the soil quality, suppress weeds and give your bougainvillea a great boost for next year.

FAQs

When should I stop feeding my bougainvillea?

Knowing when, and when not, to fertilize bougainvillea is important. While they are hungry plants, stop feeding at the end of the summer, usually around September. You should not feed your bougainvillea during the fall months. This is a common fertilizing mistake that will do more harm than good. Fertilizing can commence again in the spring, usually around April or May, using a bloom booster fertilizer to encourage a spectacular summer display.

While you might want to tidy up your bougainvillea plants ahead of winter, it is best to put the pruning shears away at least until late winter. In terms of how to prune bougainvillea, any major work can be done in late winter, usually around March, when your bougainvillea is in a dormant state. Blooms will be produced on new growth, so it is best to prune before it begins to leaf out in the spring. During the growing year, you can complete any light pruning as required, although it is a good idea to avoid snipping during extreme heat as this can damage your plant.

Pruning your passion flower climbers at the right time and in the right way is important, and with the correct approach, you can be sure of a bounty of blooms next year. With such outlandish and otherworldly flowers, who wouldn't want to keep this plant in good health and looking its best?

While it will depend on the species and variety you grow, most passion flower plants are vigorous. For this reason, annual pruning is important. For example, Passiflora incarnata, commonly known as wild maypop, is an aggressive vine that is native to the southeastern United States and found growing across Georgia, Florida and Texas. Without regular maintenance, vines such as the wild maypop will quickly get out of control.

So, while you might know how to grow passion flowers, getting your pruning approach right is crucial to a tidy and well-maintained yard. Here, one passion flower expert shares all the information you need to keep these vigorous plants in check and full of flowers.

When and how to prune passion flowers

Passion flowers are often considered some of the best plants to cover a fence. As fast-growing climbing plants, they can quickly cover garden walls, fences and structures, filling your yard with lush green foliage and striking, unusual flowers. These native plants, however, can grow up to 20 feet in one year, which is an alarming rate, especially for those of us who garden in a small yard. Pruning is, therefore, an essential task.

When is the right time to prune passion flowers?

As fast-growing and vigorous plants, passion flowers are ideal if are are looking to create a vertical garden. The trick is knowing when to prune to keep them under control.

There are two times at which you should prune, either during late summer or early fall once flowering has finished or in spring, before new growth emerges. If you prune in late summer or early fall, it is best to give your plant a light trim, whereas in spring you can carry out some restorative pruning, if your passion flower needs some serious cutting back.

Passion flowers bloom on new growth (the current year's growth), so pruning in spring can result in fewer blooms for the first year, but can sometimes be necessary to revive or control an unruly climber.

How to correctly prune passion flowers

'Most passion flowers will cope down to US hardiness zone 8, but there are some native options that can thrive even in US hardiness zone 5,' says Myles Stewart Irvine, garden expert and passion flower breeder.

'Wherever you grow them, these vigorous climbers can quickly fill trellises, wires and canes, so it is crucial to prune them appropriately,' Myles adds.

During late summer and fall, it is best to simply prune any long, unsightly, or messy stems. At this point, you can also tie in your climber to the trellis, wires or climbing supports in your yard. While passion flowers tend to vine and attach themselves rather effectively, it is a good idea to provide as much support as possible for the stormy months ahead.

In the early spring, once the risk of frost has passed, you can carry out a more thorough, restorative spot of pruning. 'You can cut back to the wood if you need to for messy climbers,' Myles adds. 'Be sure to leave two to three long woody, straggly bits of vine from where new growth will shoot.

'Your approach should be determined by where you live and your US hardiness zone,' Myles continues. 'In the tropics, you can get away with a lot. In northern regions with cooler climates, however, a hard prune can finish a plant. It is best to only prune what you need, be sure to leave a few stems, and always approach with caution.'

When pruning, use clean, sharp tools, such as these Felco snips from Walmart, to easily remove dead and damaged stems. While you might need to get rid of a significant amount of old stems, as Myles says, you should try to save a couple of woody stems with fresh new growth on them to ensure that your plant survives.

FAQs

Should I fertilize my passion flower after pruning it?

Fertilizing should only be done during the spring and summer. Using a bloom booster feed during the growing season will encourage your plant to produce plenty of flowers. If you prune your passion flower in the fall, do not use a fertilizer, but instead apply a mulch to the surface of your borders and beds, which will help to improve the structure and quality of your soil.

If you leave your pruning until springtime, one benefit is that you get to enjoy the fruits that are produced during late summer and fall. The edible fruits that many of us enjoy are from the Passiflora edulis species, native to Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Before snacking on any fruits, always check what species you are growing, as some are not edible.

For more climbing plant care information, see our guide on how to prune jasmine, to ensure that your fragrant vines stay in good shape this year.

There is something rather magical about a pergola. When it is in full bloom, wreathed in scent, covered with textured foliage and occasionally hung with tiny outdoor lights, it can feel intimate, romantic and utterly relaxing.

The simple framework of posts and beams are a great way to provide shade and ambience over a terrace or patio, creating a cozy outside room for lounging or dining in. Pergolas can also cover a walkway, helping to zone the space and shield the pathway from the sun while acting as an aromatic entrance to another part of the yard.

Familiar plant picks for pergolas include climbing roses, wisteria and jasmine, but we look at some other fast-growing and trainable climbers that will quickly wrap their way round your pergola frame, and offer a heady combo of color and perfume.

What is a pergola?

A pergola is an outdoor garden feature that dates back to the Ancient Egyptians, and has been in more common use since Roman times when they were attached to exterior walls and supported by pillars or columns.

The name comes from the Latin word for a projecting eave – pergula. They used to be built from brick, stone and timber, but materials used for modern pergolas now include premium aluminium, and fiberglass, like this wall-mounted kit from Pergola Kits USA.

Here are eight of the best climbers to grow up a pergola for fast coverage and a romantic effect.

1. Bougainvillea

'Bougainvillea is one of the most beautiful and most overlooked plants for pergolas,’ explains horticulturalist Matthew Wilson. ‘It will bring a tropical aspect to your garden space with its bracts (the papery leaves surrounding the small white flowers) coming in many bright colors. It does well in USDA hardiness zones that have a warm climate, such as 8-10, provides color throughout the year and is low maintenance.’

This sprawling evergreen vine can reach heights of more than 20ft. It needs full sun and well-drained acidic soil. It can flower throughout the spring, summer and fall, but benefits from pruning in the late summer. The bougainvillea stems are thorny, so be careful where you place it, and wear gloves when you prune.

2. Akebia

This semi-evergreen twining woody vine is also known as the chocolate vine, earning its name due to its purple-brown blooms and sweet, chocolatey smell. It is without doubt one of the best plants to grow up a pergola.

‘Akebia produces delicate, fragrant flowers and attractive foliage. It is fast-growing but tends to be pretty easygoing, tolerating a wide range of conditions,’ says Matthew. ‘It can be planted in more moderate climates, such as zones 5-7, as it can take cooler temperatures. It will still require some care and occasional winter protection (they can be damaged by late frosts) but can be long-lived and beautiful.’

Akebia can grow up to 40 ft, and likes sandy, loamy soil that is moist and well-drained. It thrives in full sun or partial shade and flowers from March to May. It also produces eggplant-like fruits in late summer, and the leaves can also be used to make tea.

3. Passionflower

If you want quick coverage for your pergola, passion flower will soon have it swathed in flowers that are remarkable in the intricacy of their design.

‘This is among the fastest growing vines suitable for climbing a pergola,’ says Nathan Thorne, who runs an online flower company. 'It grows in USDA zones 6-10, where the climate is warm to temperate.’

There are many varieties of passion flower, most of which produce edible fruits. The Passiflora incarnata is also known as the 'maypop', and earns its nickname from the sound the fruit makes when stepped on. But the most remarkable thing about these tendril-bearing vines are the showiness of the flowers, which are an often multicolored mix of petals, corona filaments and stigma.

Plant in moist, well-drained soils in a sunny spot or in partial shade. Passion flower plants blooms from midsummer to early fall, but each flower only lasts about a day. Be sure to prune passion flowers regularly to keep them under control.

You can find passion flower starter plants at Walmart.

4. Hops

If your pergola is intended for drinking or dining out in, why not surround yourself with one of the ingredients of your favourite beverage. Humulus lupulus or hops can help you create your very own beer garden.

‘In addition to the role they play in fermentation, a hop plant has foliage that offers good shade and delicate flowers. The green cones, which are the fruit, provide a textural layer to a pergola,’ says Nathan. ‘Hops have a high growth rate in hardiness zones 3-8, and the fruit persists through winter, taking on a brownish color.'

Hops bloom from June to July and have male and female flowers that grow on different plants; it is the female that produces the fruit. Position is important to hops as they like up to 12 hours of full sun. They grow vigorously in well-drained soil and produce twisting stems – known as bines – between 20 and 30 ft long, with stiff hairs to hold onto a trellis or pergola frame and create a natural screen.

5. Climbing hydrangea

Renowned for their big, rounded flower heads in shades of pink, blue and white, hydrangeas are more familiar as large, dense bushes. But there is a variety that will bring a more subtle beauty to a pergola - and it grows well in shade.

Climbing hydrangeas, or Hydrangea petiolaris is a perennial that thrives in well draining soil in USDA hardiness zones 4-8, it flowers in spring and summer, and has vibrant dark green leaves that turn yellow in fall then drop off in winter to reveal the textural bark of the vine. Keep the pruners handy though, as once it starts this climber can reach heights of 50ft.

You can cover your walls and garden framework with flowers, even in the shade, with a climbing hydrangea from Nature Hills.

6. Trumpet vine

Aptly named, the flowers of this deciduous, woody vine are exactly as described, with narrow, tubular bases that flare out at the end as if emitting a musical note.

‘The trumpet vine is a real eye-catcher with its clusters of orange and scarlet blooms and thick emerald-green foliage,’ says Dennis Sons, owner of TN Nursery. ‘You can't go wrong with this plant. Not only is it stunning, but it lures wildlife like hummingbirds and honey bees. It requires little to no maintenance and thrives in dry areas.

'They can thrive in USDA hardiness zones 4–9, which covers 48 states,’ he adds.

A vigorous grower, this perennial can be left to its own devices once planted in sandy, clay or well-drained soil. It prefers sun, though will also grow in partial shade, and produces a show of color when it flowers in summer.

However, it is also known as the trumpet creeper and is considered invasive in some areas as it can spread rapidly and choke other plants. A strict regime of pruning should keep it under control.

Trumpet vines come in a number of shades, but you can add a blaze of color with the First Editions Atomic Red from Nature Hills.

7. Virginia creeper

The fall foliage rather than the spring flowers are the star of the show with Virginia creeper, also known as woodbine. The deciduous climber has leaves composed of five leaflets that turn from green to crimson in an impressive pre-winter display.

‘This native plant is often overlooked when it comes to landscaping, but it is a beauty,’ says Dennis. ‘It is a stunning evergreen, so your pergola will be vibrant even in the coldest months.

'In the fall, its foliage takes on a fiery orange to bright scarlet color. It thrives in zones 3-9, and is a very fast grower, so your pergola will be full and lush in no time. The only maintenance it needs is a good trim in spring and fall.’

Virginia creeper clings on to supports and surfaces with sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils. These are sometimes hard to remove from walls, so it is better attached to a trellis.

It grows best in full sun though it will also tolerate shade, and thrives in sandy, clay or loamy soil. In late spring it produces greenish white flowers followed by dark blue berries that are toxic to humans though enjoyed by birds.

8. American bittersweet

A native vine, as its name suggests, this vigorous climber is at its best in fall when it is covered with small, orange-coloured fruit clusters.

Possibly a more unconventional option for the adventurous gardener to grow, American bittersweet can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 4-9, and boasts vibrant orange-red berries that persist through winter, providing year-round interest.

Its aggressive growth requires vigilant pruning. However, the payoff is a spectacular autumnal display that can transform an ordinary pergola into a focal point.

It likes full sun and moist or dry conditions. It is considered drought tolerant so is a good pick for a moisture-conserving landscape. It can also cope with urban pollution so will grow well even in an inner-city yard.

If you love the idea of climbing plants cascading over your pergola, how about creating an outdoor haven that you can eat (or drink) by planting a climber with edible fruits. Grape vines can be trained over pergolas and arches to make a perfect spot for wining and dining. You can find out more in our guide to growing your own grapes

Weird and wonderful, the passion flower is a plant unlike any other. When compared to most other blooms that are common in backyards, such as roses, peonies, or hydrangeas, passion flowers seem almost alien in their appearance.

Native to tropical regions of North, Central and South America, passion flowers thrive in hot and humid, rainforest-like environments. Considered some of the best fast-growing climbing plants, there are over 600 species of passion flowers, or Passiflora, most of which are vigorous growers that produce purple, pink, blue and white blooms.

Many passion flower species are tender and best suited to growing in warmer regions or conservatories. However, there are several hardy species, including the native Passiflora caerulea that grows wild across much of the southern United States, that will thrive in cooler zones. Here, a gardening expert shares advice on how to grow passion flowers to guarantee a profusion of extraordinary blooms.

How to grow passion flowers

Passion flowers have an other-worldly appearance. These climbers produce tropical-looking blooms of incredible detail and color that are pollinated by a range of wildlife, including bees and hummingbirds. Passion flowers also have a symbiotic relationship with ants, who feed on the plant's nectar and, in return, protect the foliage from predators, such as caterpillars.

Things to know about passion flowers

'There are about 600 species of passion flower and many hundreds of hybrids,' says Myles Stewart Irvine, garden expert and passion flower breeder. 'Of the most popular decorative species, most will cope with US hardiness zone 8 and above, but there are some, including the native Passiflora incarnata that can cope down to US hardiness zone 5. Some species can even be grown indoors, although these do require extra care and attention compared to those in the yard.

'They are vigorous climbers so will readily grow up trellises, garden wires, mesh, and bamboo canes, using their tendrils to vine and climb. While they can be pruned and kept in check, be warned, that they will grow through nearby shrubs and trees and quickly cover canopies, causing other plants to struggle,' Myles adds.

It is important to note that some passion flower species are considered invasive plants, so it is always best to check with your local municipal body to ascertain if any species are to be avoided in your region. For example, Passiflora biflora is a stunning purple species, but it is considered invasive in Florida, so always do your research before purchasing any plants from garden stores or online.

'In the right circumstances, even native species like Passiflora incarnata will throw up runners everywhere, as indeed can the common passion flower, Passiflora caerulea. Hybrids are a better option as they usually produce fewer runners and fruit,' Myles continues.

'If you are learning how to grow passion flowers in pots, I would recommend three of my hybrids that have bigger flowers and are hardier than most species options - Passiflora 'Betty Myles Young', Passiflora 'Damsel’s Delight' and Passiflora 'Snow Queen', but there are other good hybrids available, such as Passiflora ‘Lady Margaret’, that has striking crimson blooms.' Passiflora 'Lady Margaret' is available to order from Walmart.

Growing guide for passion flowers

• Soil: 'Most passion flowers need free draining soil,' Myles says. 'At the time of planting, it is best to incorporate some good multi-purpose compost with horticultural grit or perlite, to improve soil health and drainage.' Organic soil is available from Walmart.
• Light: Plant your passion flower in a sheltered position, ideally against a south-facing wall or fence. 'Passion flowers love full sun,' Myles adds, 'and most will bloom all the more in sunny spots.'
• Watering: Provide moisture for newly planted passion flowers, watering at least once a week in spring and summer during the first year. Once established, watering can become more infrequent, and most larger climbers will be able to fend for themselves. If you are growing tender varieties in pots indoors, be sure to water your plants during the warmer months.
• Fertilizer: 'They are greedy feeders, especially when grown in pots,' Myles continues. 'They will benefit from fertilizer in spring and summer, but avoid feeding in the fall, as growth needs to harden off. Any good general-purpose feed, either liquid or slow-release will do.' If your climbers seem reluctant to bloom, use a feed high in phosphorus, such as this tomato fertilizer from Walmart. One common fertilizing mistake that gardeners make is to use a feed that is high in nitrogen, but this will encourage foliage production at the expense of flowers.
• Pruning: Pruning passion flowers is best done once a year in early spring. Passion flowers are vigorous plants, so do not be afraid to remove a few feet of old growth. Flowers are produced on new growth, so pruning old stems in the early spring will not impact this year's flowering. Pruning every year will help to keep your plants in check.

FAQs

Can I grow passion flowers in pots?

Passion flowers tend to want to spread, but can be grown and restricted in pots. This is a good idea for smaller yards or gardeners in cooler zones so that they can protect tender species in the winter months. Position pots in a sunny location and be sure to use free-draining soil with plenty of added grit or sand. It is a good idea to place canes, a trellis or an obelisk over the pot to encourage vertical growth.

Are passion flowers pest-resistant?

'Spider mites and mealy bugs can be problematic, especially if grown in greenhouses,' Myles says. 'Mealybugs can be picked off but I tend to blast them off with a hose, to remove these pests.' Neem oil, available from Walmart, is an organic treatment if your pest problem is severe.

Passion flowers are spectacular climbers to grow, and by following our guide, you too can enjoy a bounty of unusual blooms. For more climbing plant inspiration, see our guide on the best plants to hide a garden wall.

Famed for its fragrant blooms, wisteria is one of the most popular flowering climbers and it is easy to understand why. Whether grown across pergolas, arches or fences, wisteria adds impact to any space, notably producing a bounty of pendulous perfumed flowers in spring and summer. In the flowering climber Olympics, wisteria would be hard to beat, with full marks for vigor and verve.

Last summer, while working as a professional gardener in Tuscany, I maintained several white-flowering wisteria plants that adorned a long pergola walkway. This white-flowering variety -Wisteria floribunda 'Alba' - is particularly striking. As with any wisteria, the scent was both heady and intoxicating underneath the floral canopy. If you are seeking a floriferous and fragrant climber for your yard, this option won't disappoint.

When considering how to grow wisteria, these fragrant flowers are vigorous and resilient, often producing more than 10 feet of growth in one season. As a tough and self-reliant plant, it is not always necessary to apply fertilizer, and these plants can grow just fine without gardener interference. Here, one expert reveals when to reach for the fertilizer, and when to leave it in the garden shed.

Is it necessary to fertilize wisteria?

Wisteria climbers are notably vigorous and can be invasive if left unpruned. For example, the Chinese wisteria, Wisteria sinensis, is a prolific plant that can be grown in US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8. Without regular pruning, this species can cause problems. The native American wisteria, Wisteria frutescens, is less invasive and can be grown up to and including US hardiness zone 9. Whatever species you grow, knowing when - and when not - to fertilize wisteria plants is important.

When to fertilize wisteria

'While it seems natural to reach for the fertilizer during the growing season, it is sensible to consider first if it is absolutely necessary,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage.

'Although it is really tempting to fertilize wisteria in the hope of more flowers, it's generally not needed,' Katie continues. 'Wisteria are tough and resilient plants, and can often find what they need in the soil themselves.'

As Katie says, many of us gardeners tend to think that feeding is just something that needs to be done during spring and summer, but this common fertilizing mistake can often do more harm than good.

'Wisteria plants are legumes, meaning they are part of the pea, or Fabaceae, family,' Katie adds. 'Legumes are nitrogen-fixing, so the roots of each plant can produce the nitrogen needed to survive and thrive.

'For this reason,' Katie continues, 'wisteria plants do not require additional nitrogen from fertilizers. If you do use a fertilizer high in nitrogen, you risk promoting additional foliage growth at the expense of flower production.'

While nitrogen is not needed by wisteria plants, other nutrients can be in short supply. Katie recommends using a soil test, available from Walmart, which will help you to understand the nutrient supply in your soil. If phosphorus levels are low, for example, flower production can be disappointing. There are ways to quickly eradicate this problem.

How to fertilize wisteria

If you want to encourage more blooms on your wisteria plant, it is best to use a bloom booster fertilizer. These products should be high in phosphorus, which is the nutrient conducive to flower development.

'When considering plant fertilizer numbers, you are looking for a fertilizer with the middle number of the formulation higher than the other two numbers,' Katie advises. 'Something like 10-20-10, for example.

'The best time to apply a bloom booster fertilizer is in spring when the foliage is starting to unfurl,' Katie adds. 'Slow-release fertilizers are a good option, as they can help feed your plants throughout the season.' Slow-release bloom boosters are available from Amazon.

Other options include water-soluble fertilizers that can be applied during the spring and summer months, such as this organic bloom booster fertilizer, available from Walmart.

'Always follow the instructions on any fertilizer,' Katie cautions, 'to avoid fertilizer burn and long-lasting damage to the plant. In addition, always apply these feeds at the base of your wisteria to avoid leaf burn and encourage the best nutrient absorption.'

FAQs

My wisteria has yellow leaves - should I fertilize it?

If your plant has yellow foliage during the growing season, this can be a sign of nutrient deficiency. Any standard soil testing kit, available from Amazon, will be able to identify nutrient problems, so I recommend completing a test before applying any fertilizer. Problems can be easily resolved with soil treatments and conditioners. For example, if your soil is low in iron - which can cause the foliage to turn yellow - applying fresh compost and mulch will help.

Fertilizing plants when it is not necessary can often do more harm than good. If your wisteria plants are healthy and flowering well, I recommend keeping the fertilizer in the garden shed this year. For more plant care advice, see our guide on how to grow wisteria from cuttings, for patient gardeners who want to try propagating this fragrant climber.

I'm personally fond of ivy – I think it can create beautifully luscious carpets and walls of green and yellow foliage in our yards. However, this climbing plant spreads profusely and can become a nuisance if it takes over areas of your yard that you don't want it to.

If you've chosen the perfect garden fence and have carefully decorated it, you may not wish for ivy to grow all over it. We already know that it's possible to get rid of ivy with vinegar as a method of killing off the plant, but there are also plenty of ways to easily remove it.

It might seem like a big job to tackle at first, but experts say it's simple to remove ivy for good in just a few steps.

How to get rid of ivy on a fence

There are so many varieties of ivy plants, all of which like to climb surfaces and cling onto them using their aerial roots. While they can be one of the best evergreen climbers, you may want to remove ivy growing over any fences you want to keep clear. Here are 3 simple steps to getting rid of ivy from a fence, as recommended by experts.

1. Put protective wear on

The first step to getting any garden task done is ensuring you have the right essential gardening tools to hand, including any appropriate protective wear. When it comes to cutting down plants, always make sure to keep your hands safe.

Using gardening gloves, like these gardening gloves from Amazon, will stop your skin becoming scratched by any sharp stems.

'In my current home, I have ivy growing on a short section of the fence which I don't mind all that much because it provides some additional privacy, but I do work on keeping it under control,' says Annette Hird, expert gardener at Easy Urban Gardens.

'I always wear gloves when I remove it because this makes it easier to grip the end of a vine and pull it off,' she adds.

You should also be cautious that in the process of removing ivy, dust and other particles may fly up from broken vines. That's why I recommend also getting your hands on something like these surgical masks from Walmart to prevent breathing anything in.

2. Cut the ivy right back

Once you're all geared up and have safety measures in place, it's time to get cutting. There are many tools you could use for this, so long as they're sharp and you make sure to clean your garden tools after use to prevent passing on any bacteria or pests to other plants.

'Generally, I just use a hedge trimmer to trim it right back and then cut off any wayward bits with my pruners,' says Annette. 'I also have to stop it from growing up a tree which is growing near the fence. Without keeping it trimmed, it would definitely take over and continue to grow over the yard,' she adds.

Whether you opt for a hedge trimmer, like this hedge trimmer with a saw from Amazon, or pruners, like these bypass pruning shears from Amazon, it's wise to prune ivy regularly to keep it under control or remove it all together.

If like Annette you don't mind a little bit of ivy on your fence but don't want it to take over the entire boundary, just prune it back a little at a time to keep it confined to one space.

3. Pull off remaining stems

Having done your best to cut away the majority of ivy vines and stems, you might find that a few stragglers remain in the crevices of your fence, or even along the bottom. Sometimes the best tool you can use for smaller jobs is your hands.

'The vines have aerial roots that adhere quite strongly to fences, buildings and other structures. It's actually quite satisfying to pull these off the fence,' says Annette. 'Sometimes you have to cut the vines from the main plant first and let them die to make them easier to pull off,' she adds.

If you want to stop the ivy growing back, it can be wise to pull up the roots. This will become easier once you have cut back the majority of the foliage.

Of course, ivy does also grow well in pots and can be contained well when grown like this. I grow ivy indoors as a houseplant where it's easy to stop it climbing surfaces in my home. Try keeping some of the vines from outdoors to grow ivy from cuttings and get an indoor plant for free.

FAQs

How do you kill ivy?

One way to effectively get rid of ivy from unwanted places in your yard is by killing it to ensure it doesn't grow back. One of the most popular methods is using vinegar to soak the roots and foliage. Other effective solutions include using herbicides with glyphosate and digging up roots. Once foliage has turned brown from any sprays you've used, pull it all away to remove it.

Although beautiful and a classic for an English garden style, ivy can become invasive and take over surfaces quickly. Keep your fence clear by regularly cutting away and removing ivy vines with the appropriate tools.

If you find that your ivy is leaving an oil-like substance on your hands when touched, it could be poison ivy – make sure to get rid of any poison ivy in your yard to avoid allergic reactions and rashes.

With a sweet fragrance and attractive pink or white blooms, jasmine is a climbing plant that more than earns its spot in any yard. I have grown jasmine in many gardens where I have worked as a professional gardener, and while my taste in plants seems to change almost as quickly as the weather, jasmine is one climber that consistently remains a favorite.

Whether you want to grow jasmine in pots or seek climbing plants to grow up a house, jasmine is undoubtedly one of the best climbing plants for any space. It is both hardy and vigorous, growing well in temperate and warmer regions, and producing masses of flowers every year.

With a few simple jasmine care tips, you can ensure that your jasmine plants thrive, producing many flowers to admire in spring and summer. Here, garden experts share 3 jasmine-growing secrets that will guarantee success with this popular climber.

3 jasmine care tips

Learning how to grow jasmine is relatively simple, and by following a few steps, you can ensure that your climbers thrive. Common jasmine, Jasminum officinale, grows best in US hardiness zone 7 and above, although in my experience, it can be grown in cooler regions when positioned in a sheltered, sunny spot.

1. Staking jasmine plants

'When growing jasmine climbers, it is essential to provide support for your plants such as a trellis or a fence,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'In warmer climates, common jasmine has the capability of growing up to 3 feet in one growing season, so make sure to choose a climbing structure tall enough to allow it to grow.'

There are many different climbing plant support ideas to try, including trellises, obelisks, or even pergolas. Jasmine plants are ideal for covering these structures with lush foliage and fragrant flowers. Alternatively, consider learning how to build hazel plant supports for a subtle, artisanal aesthetic in your yard.

'Ensure that your plant is close to the base of any plant support,' Katie says. 'New shoots can be gently woven into the plant support, attached using gardening twine, available from Amazon.'

Katie recommends keeping the ties 'loose to allow the stems to continue to grow.' Tying in should be a continuous job, 'training your plant upwards and outwards as new growth emerges.'

Plant supports and trellises are available to order online from Amazon.

2. Fertilizing jasmine

Learning how and when to fertilize jasmine is important, to ensure that your plants have all the nutrients they need to thrive. 'Jasmine should be fertilized lightly during the spring and summer months,' Katie continues.

'It is best to use a fertilizer high in phosphorus,' such as this bloom booster fertilizer, available from Amazon. 'Slow-release fertilizers are also a good idea,' Katie says, 'helping to feed your climbers throughout the active growing season with no further input required - and who doesn't enjoy easy gardening?'

'Once the jasmine blooms have stopped flowering in late summer, it is best to stop feeding for the year,' Katie adds.

Shop plant fertilizer

3. Pinching out jasmine

Much like pinching out zinnias, learning how to prune jasmine is important. Pinching out new growth can generate plenty of bushy growth and side shoots.

'To encourage a fuller, evenly shaped climbing jasmine, I recommend pinching back about 1/3 of the new growth,' Katie says.

When your jasmine produces new growth in spring and summer, pinch out the growing tips and a few inches of new growth, tying in these stems to support side shoots and horizontal growth.

You can pinch out either by hand or using sharp, clean tools. I prefer using secateurs, to ensure a neat cut. Pruning snips are available from Walmart.

FAQs

Can I grow jasmine in a shady garden?

Jasmine can be grown in part-shade but does best with at least 4 to 6 hours of sunshine each day. The more sun your plant enjoys, the more flowers it will produce. If you have a shady yard, I recommend growing a climber more suited to darker conditions, such as honeysuckle, or an evergreen clematis, such as Clematis armandii, both of which will grow well in a shady spot.

Following these 3 expert-approved tips is sure to help your jasmine plants thrive this year, with long-lasting and fragrant flowers perfuming the air during those warm summer evenings. For more gardening information, see our guide on how to grow winter jasmine, for fragrant and colorful blooms in the darker months of the year.

There are few things nicer than relaxing in the backyard in the heat of summer beneath a canopy of fragrant blooms, and even fewer things more charming than star jasmine flowers decorating your veranda or patio.

As one of the best evergreen climbers, star jasmine provides year-round interest with its foliage and brings dainty star-shaped flowers in summer months, granting its name. Unlike growing common jasmine, or Jasminum officinale, which comes from the jasmine family, star jasmine actually comes from the Trachelospermum genus and is also known as Trachelospermum jasminoides. It's native to south-eastern Asia and grows best in US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10.

Getting the growing conditions right for star jasmine isn't too difficult achieve, but there are a few things to keep in mind if you want to successfully create a space filled with the sweet scent of this summer bloomer. We've spoken to experts to find out more about growing and caring for star jasmine and they shared their top tips.

5 expert tips for growing star jasmine

In its native environment, star jasmine grows in plenty of sunlight, warmth and humidity. It's fairly easy to grow if you recreate its natural habitat, resulting in a beautiful summer display. There are just a few things experts recommend keeping in mind for successful growing.

1. Plant seeds in winter

Star jasmine can be grown from seed, like with these star jasmine seeds from Amazon, and it can be wise to sow your seeds indoors to start them off.

'You need to plant seeds in the middle or end of winter - 2–3 months before warm temperatures stabilize,' says Nastya Vasylchyshyna, botany expert at Plantum.

Nastya recommends soaking the seeds for 24 hours before planting to enhance germination. You should then keep your seeds warm and moist to encourage seedling growth - keeping them in an indoor greenhouse can be a good way to achieve this.

'After a couple of months once spring frosts have passed, you can transplant the seedlings into open ground,' Nastya adds.

2. Choose well-draining soil

Like many late summer flowers, it's wise to ensure your soil type is well-draining for star jasmine to grow happily. These plants don't like to sit in oversaturated soil which could cause a lack of blooms, or leaves to turn yellow or red.

'I grow a lot of star jasmine in southern California and find the best soil for star jasmine is well-draining and slightly acidic to neutral (around 6.0 to 7.5),' says Marek Bowers, gardening and landscaping expert from Bolder Green.

Growing star jasmine in pots can be a great way to add extra drainage and there are lots of potting mix products that will suit it well - like this potting mix from Amazon.

'Enhance soil fertility and structure by adding compost or manure to the planting hole. Poor and compacted soils will hamper growth and blooming,' notes Nastya.

You can make your own compost and add things like banana peels for plants to help boost the nutrients available in the soil for your star jasmine.

3. Avoid excessive direct sunlight

Although star jasmine is among plants that love light, too much direct sun can cause damage to its delicate petals and foliage - this usually occurs when they are planted in pots, and can be mitigated by sticking to a regular watering schedule. Experts say it's best to choose somewhere with plenty of bright sunlight, but not an extreme of direct heat.

'Hot afternoon sun, especially in summer, can scorch the leaves of star jasmine, so make sure to shield the plant from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight,' says Nastya. 'Meanwhile, full shade can hinder growth and flowering. Optimal positions include partial shade or spots with morning and evening sun exposure and partial shade in the afternoon, such as the western or eastern side of your house, garage or fence,' she adds.

Star jasmine can tolerate some garden shade but it's best to ensure it still receives eight hours of natural light.

4. Maintain consistent moisture levels

Not knowing how to water plants correctly is where many people go wrong with gardening, leading to lots of failed plants. But if you're able to quickly establish a proper watering routine for your specific plant, you'll be able to keep it thriving for longer.

'Watering should be done regularly, especially during the first growing season, to establish a strong root system,' says Marek. 'Afterward, maintain consistent moisture but avoid waterlogging the soil,' he adds.

Waterlogged soil can cause lots of issues for your star jasmine, including rotting roots and other problems. It's a wise idea to use this moisture meter from Amazon to monitor moisture levels and give your star jasmine a drink when the top inch of soil is dry.

'Personally, I build drip systems to water my star jasmine plants. Initially, I water them every day using 2 GPH dripper, now I've tapered back to every other day,' says Marek. Using a drip irrigation system is a great way to reduce water waste in your yard and help your plants get as much water as they need.

5. Prune star jasmine after flowering

You can keep your star jasmine flowering for longer by pruning star jasmine once its blooms have faded to encourage new ones to grow.

You'll need to use essential gardening tools, like these Fiskars pruning shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts when pruning your star jasmine. It's also wise to read up on pruning mistakes to avoid to do this task successfully.

'As well as pruning, fertilizing it with a balanced fertilizer in the spring and midsummer will also encourage new blooms and keep your star jasmine blooming for longer,' notes Marek.

FAQs

Can you propagate star jasmine?

It's possible to propagate star jasmine from cuttings in water. Avoid water propagation mistakes by taking healthy cuttings around 5 inches long and removing any lower leaves. Keep the cutting in a warm and bright spot to help encourage roots and pot it up in well-draining soil after 4-8 weeks when roots have developed.

Why is my star jasmine not flowering?

There are a few reasons why your star jasmine might not be flowering. It could be because it has insufficient light levels, is sitting in oversaturated soil or simply that it is dormant. Star jasmine plants are evergreen but only bloom in summer. If it isn't flowering during the summer months, try adjusting its growing conditions and continue providing optimal care to encourage new growth.

Star jasmine is an excellent choice for a fragrant garden. Its sweet scent and climbing nature makes it a valuable addition to your yard to enjoy during the summer months.

If you're unsure how to grow your star jasmine, explore our list of beautiful climbing plant support ideas to find a styling option that suits your space.

Clematis are often considered some of the best flowering climbers and it is easy to see why. With over 350 clematis species, there are many different shapes, sizes, and forms to admire. Some are evergreen, such as Clematis armandii, which is prized for producing winter blooms, while most are flowering perennials that erupt with color in spring or summer, like Clematis jackmanii, with its large, star-shaped purple blooms, seen in the image above.

When considering how to grow clematis, many gardeners will consider these climbers as low-maintenance, which for the most part, is true. We are used to seeing clematis happily trailing and vining over fences and garden walls, producing a bounty of flowers and lush new foliage every year. However, clematis plants can sometimes appear sickly, with yellowing and browning foliage a cause for concern. While this is rarely fatal, prompt and effective treatment can prevent small issues from spiraling into bigger problems.

I have grown many different clematis varieties when working as a professional gardener, both in the ground and in containers. Here, I share everything I know about yellowing and browning clematis leaves, helping you to keep your favorite flowering plants healthy and full of blooms.

Why does my clematis plant have yellow and brown leaves?

Some of the best clematis varieties, including pale leather flowers, can steal the show in the spring and summer, with large colorful blooms that garden visitors and pollinators love. Browning or yellowing foliage can be a worry, and there could be any number of reasons why the leaves on your plant seem sickly. With speedy and appropriate action, you can prevent problems from spreading and spoiling your clematis display.

Yellow clematis leaves

Yellowing foliage is a sign that your plant is not happy. This process is called chlorosis, whereby there is a lack of green chlorophyll making the foliage appear yellow.

In the first instance, yellowing foliage would suggest poor drainage. Check the soil at the base of your plant to assess for waterlogged soil. If this is the case, improve the quality of your soil by incorporating mulch and organic matter every year. Organic mulch is available to buy online from Amazon.

Yellowing leaves can also be a sign of nutrient deficiencies. Soil testing kits, available from Walmart, are a good way to quickly identify if your borders are lacking in essential nutrients and minerals. It is best to assess nutrient makeup before taking action, as otherwise, you might be fertilizing clematis plants when it is not necessary.

Once you have concluded whether or not there is a nutrient deficiency problem, you can take effective action. For example, one of the main reasons for yellowing leaves can be a sign that there is not enough magnesium in the soil. If your borders are depleted of magnesium, you can apply epsom salts for plants, available from Amazon.

Finally, ensure that your clematis is planted in the correct position in the yard. While this will be specific for different clematis species, most prefer direct sun and free-draining soil. Damp, shady environments can lead to problems associated with yellowing or wilting leaves, such as mildew.

'Clematis can be subject to mildew and should be given correct irrigation and good air circulation,' says Dan Long, clematis expert and owner of Brushwood Nursery, a nursery specializing in clematis plants based in Georgia.

'Get ahead of the problem rather than trying to catch up after the damage has started,' Dan says, 'by applying an organic product to prevent or treat mildew outbreaks early.' Organic mildew treatments are available from Walmart.

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Brown clematis leaves

Browning clematis leaves can be a sign that your plant is dry or sun-scorched. Check the soil at the base of the plant, if it is dry to a depth of 2 inches, then you need to water your climber. This will be a common issue in the summer when temperatures rise, so be sure to water regularly and arrange for watering help if you are going on vacation.

I would also advise to assess for slug and snail damage. Often, these invertebrates can eat stems lower down the plant, causing wilting and browning further up the plant. Consider our guide on slug control methods, or organic slug and snail repellents are available from Walmart. In a previous gardening job in the UK, I found several clematis stems browning and dying, only to investigate and find chomped stems from hungry pests.

If watering or pest damage does not seem to be the problem, then it might be a sign of clematis wilt, which scientists believe is caused by a fungus. While there is no effective treatment, consider pruning your clematis and removing any brown, drooping foliage. It is best to dispose of this waste appropriately avoiding depositing the affected leaves on the compost heap. Planting your clematis in a sunny, open and aerated spot will help to reduce the risk.

FAQs

What does an overwatered clematis look like?

Overwatered clematis plants can exhibit yellowing foliage. If your plant has yellow leaves, check the soil to see if your borders or containers have poor drainage. If this is the case, stop watering, and begin to mulch your soil to improve drainage.

Clematis plants are generally pest and problem-free, but if leaves suddenly turn yellow or brown, it is best to take swift and effective action. For more clematis growing advice, see our guide on how to revive woody clematis.

Clematis are hugely popular flowering climbers, renowned for producing masses of attractive blooms. Clematis montana, seen in the image above, is a favorite species of many gardeners, myself included, with a bounty of pale pink flowers blooming in the springtime.

While clematis plants can be left alone to climb and vine over garden fences, trellises and walls, without regular pruning they become unkept and messy, with long woody stems producing flowers where you might not want them. Knowing how to prune clematis and when to cut back clematis is vital for maintaining a bushy, healthy climber.

So, if your flowering climbers look like they need some help, fear not, there are pruning methods that can help gardeners revive woody clematis plants. Here, clematis growers and experts have shared their advice so that your climbers can thrive and continue blooming for many years to come.

How to revive woody clematis plants

Knowing how to grow clematis is important for nurturing healthy and long-lasting climbing plants that look good year after year. If you have a clematis that looks old, tired and woody, it can be saved, and with the right pruning approach, your clematis will once again appear bushy, healthy and full of blooms.

However, before you reach for the pruning shears or before you ask how and when to fertilize clematis, it is crucial to know which clematis type you are growing, as there are different methods employed when handling different clematis species.

Understanding clematis types before pruning

There are 3 types of clematis plants, and identifying what type you are growing will help to determine the pruning approach:

Type 1 clematis are early-flowering climbers, blooming in late winter and spring on the previous year’s growth. The evergreen Clematis armandii - often considered one of the best evergreen climbers - and the ever-popular Clematis montana are both in this group.

Type 2 clematis are large-flowered hybrids that are most recognizable, producing large show-stopping blooms in spring and summer on last year’s growth. Popular hybrids such as Clematis 'Nelly Moser' are found in this group.

Type 3 clematis are later-flowering plants that produce blooms on the current year's growth. Species including Clematis viticella and Clematis jackmanii are found in this group, but it should be easy to identify these later flowering plants.

When to prune woody clematis plants

'How woody a clematis gets is very much a function of genetics and the clematis type/group that it belongs to,' says Linda Beutler, clematis expert and curator at the Rogerson Clematis Garden.

'Type 1 clematis, including the evergreen Clematis armandii - ideal for those seeking winter climber ideas - and the larger forms such as Clematis montana, do tend to form woody bases quickly,' Linda continues. 'If that offends you, either plant shorter leafier clematis to cover the woody stems, or bite the bullet and hard prune these big-growing clematis down to 2 to 3 tall every 3 to 5 years to encourage basal shoots.'

Linda recommends pruning woody type 1 clematis after they finish flowering, which is typically around May or early June.

Large-flowered woody clematis plants that have single or double flowers, such as Clematis 'Nelly Moser', can be pruned anytime in the spring. 'Prune as much or as little as you want,' Linda says. 'The harder you prune, and the later in spring you prune, the later your plant will flower.' So, adjust the timing, based on what you want to achieve and when you want your plant to bloom.

Type 3 clematis are late-flowering, and are best pruned back hard in late winter to a node or bud towards the base of the plant. Type 3 clematis will look messy and tangled if unpruned, and after a few years, long woody stems with no flowers will result.

How to prune woody clematis plants

Once you have identified your clematis type, and know the right time to prune, make a plan for how severe you want the pruning to be, which will depend on how woody and messy your clematis is.

'It is essential to give woody clematis plants a haircut,' says Cindy Tibbetts, plant expert and owner of Hummingbird Farm Nurseries. 'I would tend to suggest making this a two-year project,' Cindy adds, 'cutting half the plant back one year and the other half the second year.'

Doing so will mean that you can enjoy some flowers while the plant regrows. 'It is also important to make sure your plant has proper fertilization and plenty of water so it can regrow and flower with vigor,' Cindy adds.

Step one: Using clean, sharp tools, such as these Felco pruning shears available from Walmart, decide which woody clematis stems you are going to prune.

Step two: Begin by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased stems first so that you are left with stems that have foliage and flowers at the very end of woody growth from previous years.

Step three: Following this, you can prune the remainder of the woody plant. Identify where you want to cut on each stem, typically above a leaf node or shoot, as close to the base as possible. While it might seem severe, cutting back to 3 or 4 feet can help to rejuvenate your climber.

Step four: If necessary, tie any remaining stems in place using twine, to direct your pruned climber where you want it to grow, or consider some alternative climbing plant support ideas, to allow your plants to grow upwards and show off.

Old, significantly woody plants can be rejuvenated by cutting almost to the ground after flowering in the spring, once the risk of frost has passed. However, I would recommend only doing this as a last resort, and in the knowledge that while your clematis might regrow from the base, such a severe pruning exercise does pose risks and your plant might not recover.

FAQs

When is the best time to prune a large, woody Clematis montana?

Clematis montana has a prolific amount of blooms that emerge in spring. Fortunately, for those gardeners with old, messy or woody Clematis montana plants, the best approach is to wait until after flowering, usually around May or June, before cutting back. To encourage healthy new basal growth, prune back to buds and nodes as close to the base of the plant as possible.

Woody clematis plants can be revitalized, and with the right pruning approach, your climbers will begin to produce new growth from the base of the plant once again. As an insurance policy, why not learn how to propagate clematis plants, helping to growing your collection? If you want to add to your clematis collection this year, consider our guide on some of the best clematis varieties, with vibrant colors and showy blooms sure to add impact to any yard.

Jasmine is a popular climbing plant that produces fragrant blooms for much of spring and summer. Celebrated for the perfume of its flowers, jasmine is surely the plant to consider for those seeking container gardening ideas or looking to plant one of the best climbing plants. 

Fortunately for those with smaller yards, patios, or even balconies, jasmine can be grown in pots. Jasmine is a relatively tolerant plant, and with the right maintenance, will reward gardeners with a flowering show that can last for many months. 

So, why not learn how to grow jasmine in pots this year, and let this vining plant ramble along your garden walls, trellises and structures? Here, we share advice from garden and plant experts to provide you with all the information you need. 

How to grow jasmine in pots

Jasmine is often thought of as one of the best flowering climbers for large spaces or structures, but it can be grown in containers and pots, which is good news for those with smaller backyards, terraces, or even balconies. Learning how to grow jasmine in pots needn't be complicated, and with suitable care and maintenance, this climber will provide months of enjoyment in the form of fragrant flowers from spring until fall. 

Can you grow jasmine in pots?

Jasmine can be grown in containers, so long as the plant enjoys the correct conditions. Jasmine grows best in US hardiness zone 7 to US hardiness zone 10, thriving in full sun positions. The more sunlight jasmine receives, the more it will flower, which is surely the goal of any gardener looking to grow this climber. 

So, when considering how to grow jasmine, so long as this popular climber is grown in a sheltered, sunny spot, growing in a container is not only possible but sometimes it is the best option, particularly for those with small spaces. 

'Using plants with fragrance in any garden or yard is important,' says Mike Murphy, plant expert and owner of You Had Me At Gardening. 'Scented climbers like jasmine are not only enjoyed by us but will attract birds, bees and butterflies.' Indeed, incorporating plants for pollinators in backyards is important, and today, most gardeners are keen to do all they can to encourage wildlife. 

Certain jasmine varieties are more suited to growing in containers than others, so it is always recommended to check on the growing requirements and growth habits before selecting a jasmine for your yard. For example, pink jasmine, available from Nature Hills, is an ideal option for container growing. Or, for an unusual jasmine, why not consider a yellow-green night-scented jasmine, available from Burpee, that can be grown in pots and produces masses of delicate, night-scented blooms? 

Growing advice for jasmine in pots

As with all shrubs, perennials and climbers that are grown in containers, it is best to use nutrient-rich soil, such as this premium potting soil from Walmart. Do not reuse old compost or soil lifted from the garden borders. 

Before filling your container, use plenty of grit and drainage material, to ensure that water can drain away freely. Before planting, it is good to consider where best to place your pot for the most suitable conditions. Remember that the more sunshine that you can give your jasmine, the more it will flower. 

'Jasmine plants can be vigorous growers and do require support,' continues Mike. 'I would recommend using a trellis, obelisk or homemade structure that will allow your jasmine to grow upwards.' 

'As your jasmine grows - and like many fast-growing flowering vines, it can grow quickly during the spring and summer months - be sure to tie in new growth, using twine or soft ties,' Mike adds. 'Avoid tying too tightly, as this prevents natural movement and could damage your jasmine.' 

Watering plants that are grown in containers is essential during the warmer months of the year. Plants in pots can dry out very quickly, particularly those grown in full-sun positions. It is a good idea to stick to a regular watering schedule, checking on your plants every other day by feeling the soil with your hand, and watering either first thing in the morning or later in the evening, once the temperatures cool. 

To boost flowering, it is advisable to fertilize jasmine during the growing season, and doing so will promote healthy growth. Feed your jasmine plants every four weeks during the growing season, using a high-potassium liquid feed, such as tomato fertilizer, which will encourage flowering. Tomato feeds are available from Walmart.

FAQs

When is a good time to plant jasmine?

It is best to plant jasmine in early spring, which will provide time for the jasmine to establish itself before the high temperatures experienced during the summer months. Alternatively, you can plant jasmine in the early fall, but be aware that younger plants are susceptible to frost damage if they have not been established before the winter. If you do plant in the fall, it is best to protect your jasmine by bringing it indoors to a greenhouse during the colder months of the year. 

Planting jasmine in pots is a good idea for those with smaller yards, patios or balconies. This popular flowering climber will happily grow in a pot, filling your space with fragrant blooms for much of the growing season. 

If you have a conservatory or glasshouse, why not consider growing other fragrant climbers or plants to make your greenhouse smell nice, and enjoy masses of brilliant blooms, attractive foliage, and delicate scent for the spring and summer months?

Balconies and terraces can often feel exposed and open with passersby able to look into your home. Planting that screens your outside space is important and will enhance your balcony by adding a sense of privacy and seclusion.

Fortunately, many balcony garden ideas can help you to create a sheltered urban oasis. Clever planting selections can be a natural and green way to enclose and screen your balcony. What's more, you are sure to be able to find planting that is suited to your conditions, whether in full sun or full shade, there is a plant for every position.

So, if you are looking for balcony privacy ideas this year, we have put together a selection of the best plants for privacy on a balcony that will help transform your outside space.

Plants for privacy on a balcony

Balconies can often feel exposed and open to the elements. The following plants for privacy on a balcony will not only add foliage and flowers to your outside space, but can also help to screen and shelter, helping you to create a private, protected and peaceful balcony.

1. Star jasmine

Popular for its fragrant white star-shaped flowers, star jasmine is well suited to growing on a balcony. This climbing plant 'does best in US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10,' says Jen McDonald, garden expert and a co-founder of Garden Girls, 'growing as an evergreen in mild and warm regions.'

When considering how to grow jasmine on a balcony, this vigorous climber needs 'minimal care once established but will require occasional pruning,' Jen adds, having a tendency to climb and vine across any surface it can.

Star jasmine prefers a full-sun position but will tolerate part-shade. Use as large a container as possible, suitable for the size of the plant and your balcony.

During the first year after planting, use twine to direct and control where your star jasmine plant grows. Once you are happy with the shape, ideally screening your balcony railings, you will only need to carry out occasional pruning to maintain this during the growing season.

2. Needlegrass

'Native grasses are an attractive and ornamental addition to the garden,' says Maya Argaman, native plant expert and Horticulture Senior Program Coordinator at the California Native Plant Society.

Many native grasses, such as needlegrass, or Stipa, can be 'hardy and versatile' and are a 'great addition to summer-dry gardens,' Maya adds.

When thinking about how to grow ornamental grasses, needlegrass thrives in US hardiness zone 7 to zone 10, enjoying part shade or full sun positions. Ornamental grasses are easy to care for while also providing attractive screening, helping to create a private and protected space.

For an unusual ornamental grass, why not try growing blue fescue grass, with striking blue-green blades that are evergreen in mild regions?

3. Verbena

Verbena, commonly referred to as vervain, are popular perennials with tall, flowering stems that vary in height from 3 feet to 6 feet. Bright lilac-purple flowers emerge during spring and summer and are often considered one of the most popular plants for pollinators.

One species of vervain, Verbena bonariensis, as seen in the images here, produces masses of purple flowers on tall stems that are pollen and nectar-rich. This verbena, much like other verbena species and varieties, grows well in US hardiness zones 7 to 11.

When considering how to grow verbena, most verbena species require plenty of sunshine, preferring six or more hours of direct sun, which shouldn't be a problem if grown on a balcony.

Fortunately, when grown on a balcony, verbena perennials may survive the winter even in cooler zones, especially if grown next to a building or a window, as this creates a protected microclimate.

Verbena plants are available from Nature Hills.

4. Beeblossom

Beeblossom, or gaura, are flowering perennial plants that are native to North America. Growing best in US hardiness zone 6 to zone 9, beeblossom plants can reach heights of up to 5 feet, making these ideal screening plants for privacy on a balcony.

Masses of white and pink flowers bloom on this bushy perennial during the spring and summer months, with many gardeners often comparing the appearance to a flutter of butterflies, particularly when the plant moves in the breeze.

Beeblossom plants are remarkably tolerant of cold and wet winters but grow best in full-sun positions where they will flower for much of the growing season.

5. Japanese holly

It is a good idea to plant some of the best evergreen shrubs and trees when growing in containers in small spaces. Doing so on a balcony, for example, will ensure that there is year-round interest, which can help to add greenery in the winter months while also acting as a hedge or a screen.

'Japanese holly, Ilex crenata, are ideal plants for privacy on a balcony,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery. 'The dark green foliage can create a lush, evergreen screen when grown in containers,' Alex adds.

'This holly bush is known for its adaptability to container planting and its ability to withstand urban conditions, including pollution, making it a perfect choice for balconies in cities.'

6. California lilac

For those seeking flowering shrubs for full sun, California lilacs are renowned as plants that can handle the heat, which is a common trait of California native planting.

This shrub will grow happily in US hardiness zones 7 to zone 10, doing well if planted in a container that is placed in a sheltered, sunny spot on a balcony. If you reside in a cooler zone, it is best to avoid planting California lilacs on your balcony, as this shrub does not like the cold.

Purple-blue blooms remain on the plant for much of the growing season, and in warmer zones, the plant will grow as an evergreen.

California lilac plants are available to buy online from Nature Hills.

FAQs

What are the best shade plants for privacy on a balcony? 

Japanese holly shrubs are an ideal option if you are seeking balcony shade ideas. Japanese holly, Ilex crenata, are shade-tolerant plants, with dark-green foliage that is evergreen, ensuring year-round interest and privacy on your balcony.

These shrubs respond well to shaping, meaning that domes or pyramids can be attempted depending on your topiary skills. In addition, this plant is popular with birds in fall and winter as it produces berries.

You can see the range of Japanese holly online at Perfect Plants.

Using grasses, climbers and shrubs to screen balconies will help you create an urban oasis that is sheltered and private. For additional and impactful planting ideas, why not consider learning how to grow Japanese blood grass? This crimson-red grass is a vigorous grower, but when placed in pots on a balcony, its spread can be managed.

For more balcony ideas, why not consider planting a balcony herb garden, incorporating herbs in your planters such as lavender or rosemary, which can help you to create a fragrant and sensory outside space?

Trumpet vines, also known commonly as Campsis, are vigorous vines that dazzle with bright orange and red trumpet-shaped flowers from midsummer through into fall.

They are fast-growing climbing plants that are native plants to the United States and do require regular pruning to keep them well-maintained and performing at their finest. A failure to trim regularly can lead to plants getting out of control and even damaging fences, decks, or structures due to their aggressive growth habit.

Despite the importance of the pruning sounding potentially daunting, it can be relatively simple to complete and trumpet vines can even be pruned aggressively without killing them. To help you feel confident about pruning a trumpet vine in your backyard, we take a closer look at when and how to trim and get some tips from plant experts.

Is pruning a trumpet vine important? 

Pruning trumpet vines can help you to control the size of the vines and prevent them spreading unchecked and in unwanted directions. Trimming annually will also have advantages in encouraging prolific flowering and maintaining the overall health of the flowering climber.

Best time to prune a trumpet vine

Pruning is an important part of maintaining and controlling a trumpet vine, and you do need to head out to trim at the right time of year. So, to avoid making any pruning mistakes, you may wonder, when should I cut back my trumpet vine?

The fast-growing flowering vine does bloom on new growth that is produced in that current season and the trimming can take place at any stage after the plant has finished flowering in fall. However, just like with lots of other deciduous woody plants, the best time to prune comes in late winter or early spring, depending on your climate and US hardiness zone. 

The best time will be just before the new growth emerges for the season ahead, though it is important to schedule the pruning after the risk of frosts has ended for your climate - so the frosts do not penetrate the cuts and risk the health of your trumpet vine. 

Pruning during dormancy does help you be able to see the shape of the plant and make informed pruning decisions. The lack of foliage also makes it easier to access all the branches you are going to prune.

While the ideal time to prune a trumpet vine is in late winter or early spring, you can remove any dead, diseased, damaged, or weak branches from the vine at any time without risking its overall health.

Tools for pruning a trumpet vine

When you are planning to prune a trumpet vine, it should only involve a few basic garden tools. This will include a pair of pruning shears and also loppers to remove older vines. Make sure that any garden tools are clean and sharp, to make clean cuts that are easier to heal and also prevent spreading diseases around the garden.

Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro, also advises ‘wearing gloves and long sleeves is recommended to protect yourself from the plant’s sap, which can cause skin irritation in some individuals’.

How to prune a trumpet vine

Trumpet vines are rapid climbing plants that are popular additions to cover a wall or cover a fence as part of people’s backyard ideas. The vines are commonly trained to climb a trellis, arbour, or framework of wires, and it can take a few years for a newly-planted trumpet vine to establish its strong skeleton of branches. The annual pruning starts once the vine is established after two or three years. 

‘The key to keeping a trumpet vine in check starts the year after planting by allowing only a few strong vines to establish and removing the rest by cutting them off at the base of the plant,’ says Amy Enfield. ‘Once the vine is established, which can take a few growing seasons, then pruning becomes annual maintenance.

‘Annual pruning involves pruning the lateral branches coming off the main, established vines. In late winter/early spring they should be pruned back to 2-3 buds.’

Trumpet vines can tolerate heavy pruning, if they are overgrown or just need a rejuvenation. This kind of aggressive pruning can be used to keep the vigorous plant in check and even keep them suitable for small backyards. 

When it comes to pruning the plants back hard, Janet Loughrey of Garden Design recommends: ‘To rejuvenate mature plants, cut back all growth to 12 inches above the ground. New shoots will sprout from the main trunk.’

After being pruned hard, the trumpet vine will sprout new shoots from the base, of which two or three of the strongest branches need to be kept and trained while the others are trimmed completely away. Trumpet vines are also notorious for sending out suckers at ground level that are best removed each year.

FAQs

Can I prune a trumpet vine in summer?

Pruning a trumpet vine in summer is not ideal, as the vine is going to be in flower and pruning will remove this season’s growth on which the plants bloom. You want to trim in late winter or early spring before the growth starts for the year, or in fall after the vine has finished blooming. The only reasons to trim in summer will be to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood as you spot it and to deadhead flowers to stop the plant spreading around your backyard. 

Hopefully now you have a good understanding of when and how to prune a trumpet vine so you can add it to your gardening checklist for late winter or early spring, as it is a plant to prune in February or March.

Despite the dark and cold of winter, your backyard can still provide interest and impact in the form of climbing plants. If you are looking for winter garden ideas, adding some vertical interest to an otherwise dormant space can help brighten up a garden wall or structure, such as trailing over a pergola or crawling across a trellis. 

Climbing plants can help maximize the color in your yard, and whilst many of us romanticize and fixate on rambling roses and showy clematis flowers that have prolific blooms during the height of summer, many climbers can help to add some greenery during the winter months. 

Among the stalwarts of the winter garden are evergreen climbers such as ivy or star jasmine, whose glossy leaves provide year-round color and texture. For a burst of seasonal color, consider winter-flowering jasmine, which will add a burst of golden-yellow flowers to your yard during the coldest months. 

These are just some of the many options to add some greenery and color to your plot amidst the winter gloom, attracting early pollinators and lifting the spirits. Invaluable to gardeners, these plants can help you to create an outdoor sanctuary with year-round interest. 

Winter climber ideas

Climbing plants can provide interest and impact to your plot at any time of year, especially during the cold and dark winter months. Discover the best winter climber ideas to help to add greenery and color to your yard.

1. Evergreen climbers

Climbing plants are incredibly useful in the garden for maximizing your growing space, using walls, fences and buildings. They can also create privacy and hide unsightly features in the backyard, such as covering the garden shed that is not aging well. 

Evergreen climbers keep all or most of their leaves year-round, making them particularly valuable for interest in the winter months. They can also provide valuable habitat for hibernating insects and pollinators. 

Star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides, is one such option, with attractive glossy, evergreen foliage. Star jasmine is ideal for training over a 'trellis or wire framework against a wall or structure in the yard,' says Mike Murphy, plant expert and owner of You Had Me At Gardening. It is also a year-round performer, not only adding evergreen interest to your yard but come spring and summer, 'fragrant blooms will add beauty and also attract pollinators, creating a vibrant garden environment,' Mike continues. Star jasmine is available from Perfect Plants.

English ivy, Hedera helix, is another plant that is both hardy and vigorous, which can be a problem if left alone for too long. With annual pruning, English ivy is an evergreen that can quickly cover unsightly walls and fences and is renowned for sheltering and feeding birds. Famed for its attractive and unique foliage, as seen in the image above, this evergreen climber is timeless. English ivy is available from Nature Hills.

The potato vine, Solanum jasminoides, is another evergreen climber, and despite being less hardy than the other two climbers mentioned here, if you have a sheltered wall or protected corner, this might be an unusual option to consider. Whilst in the potato family, this vine will sadly not produce any potatoes for consumption. However, evergreen foliage is complemented by beautiful, delicate flowers in the spring. The potato vine is available from Nature Hills.

As with any plants or trees that you are considering for your yard, suitability is variable depending on your location and in which US hardiness zones you find yourself. 

2. Winter-flowering climbers 

Winter-flowering shrubs and climbers will help to add color to your yard. Some maintenance may be required, particularly to keep shrubs growing vertically and horizontally in the way that you require, with occasional pruning and tying in for support. 

One option is the ever-popular camellia. When trained against a wall, this shrub will create a climbing effect. Many camellia varieties are evergreen and hardy, such as this Camellia japonica from Perfect Plants. Attractive green foliage is punctuated by large blooms from January through to March, with flowers coming in a range of colors, from creamy white to crimson red. 

Another consideration is winter jasmine, Jasminum nudiflorum, which flowers from December through to February. Whilst this frost-hardy shrub does not have foliage in winter, the yellow blooms are sure to add impact to your backyard. Winter jasmine does take on a rambling, wild form if left alone, so some maintenance would be required to train and guide this shrub to climb and cover a wall or garden structure. Winter jasmine is available from Garden Goods Direct. 

Several varieties of winter-flowering clematis can also add floral interest to your plot. Whilst harder to come by, these unique and beautiful climbers are worth seeking out. 

'Some of the most popular varieties of winter-flowering clematis are varieties of the Clematis cirrhosa species,' says Alex Kantor, garden expert and owner of Perfect Plants Nursery, 'including 'jingle bells', 'freckles', and 'Wisely cream.' 

'Clematis cirrhosa thrives in well-draining soil and prefers a sunny to partially shaded location,' Alex says, 'flowering from November to February and producing small, bell-shaped, cream-colored flowers.' 

Whilst winter-flowering clematis are less hardy than some of the other evergreens mentioned, if you do have a sheltered wall, ideally close to the home, these unique climbing plants could be something to consider. 

3. Deciduous climbers that can add interest

Deciduous shrubs and climbers can also offer winter interest. Whilst these plants are without foliage and flowers during the winter months, many can still provide interest in other ways. 

One option is to consider plants with interesting structures and frameworks when all the leaves have fallen. Whitney Laritson, Merchandising & Content Manager at Nature Hills, suggests planting 'climbing roses as their stems can create interesting patterns in the winter.' 

When pruning your climbing roses in winter, retain stems that are sizeable and healthy, and have shown good growth in the previous year. Stripping these stems of their smaller side shoots, you are free to weave and create beautiful swirling patterns against garden walls. Whilst lacking in color, this is certainly one way to maintain interest in the yard. 

'Climbing roses will also have rose hips if some stems are left unpruned, and these will last well into winter,' continues Whitney. Rose hips can add little pops of red and orange color, and the birds will thank you for providing this winter buffet. One option is this Rosa 'Zephirine Drouhin' available from Nature Hills, with stunning pink flowers that bloom in the summer, before turning to vibrant red rose hips in the fall and winter.

FAQs

What evergreen climber is suitable for growing in shade?

English ivy, Hedera helix, is a hardy and vigorous climber that is also shade tolerant. This can be a suitable option for a shady wall or garden fence, helping to add evergreen interest where there was none. Ivy plants can tolerate dry shade too, which is often a problem position for many gardeners. Just remember, ivy does require annual pruning and maintenance to keep it under control. 

Using evergreen and winter-flowering climbing plants is a great way to add interest to the backyard during the cold and dark months of the year. Additionally, planting shrubs with winter berries is another way to add color.

Wisteria are glorious flowering climbers, adored for their fantastic weeping blooms that come in shades of pink, blue, and purple, dazzling in late spring and summer. 

They can be a gorgeous feature climbing up walls, pergolas, arches, or a fence. However, if you are growing wisteria in your backyard then they are plants that do need some care and attention. That will include pruning your wisteria annually.

Now you may know that trimming is important, but wonder, when do I cut back wisteria? To help answer this question, we hear from gardening experts so you know when it's time to prune the wisteria in your backyard.

Why is pruning wisteria important? 

Wisteria are strong and fast-growing climbing plants, they are beautiful but can get wild and unruly if not trimmed. Pruning keeps the plant under control and also encourages the maximum level of flowering - it means you get neat and controlled wisteria and lots of flowers that attract bees and other pollinators.

When is the best time to prune a wisteria

Wisteria needs to be pruned twice a year as part of any maintenance regime, once in the late winter or early spring and again in the middle of summer. Whether you are growing the flowering climber to cover a shed, or as a climbing plant over an arch, you will reap the reward of putting in the effort to give wisteria its two annual trims.

When to prune wisteria in winter

Wisteria is pruned during its dormancy period, which runs from late fall through to late winter or early spring. The best months to prune are in February or March, but the ideal time will depend on your US hardiness zone. The length and extremes of your winter climate will have an impact on when your wisteria starts to actively grow again.

There are real advantages to pruning the climber when it is dormant in late winter. Harry Baldwin, head of horticulture at Borde Hill, says that winter pruning will renovate the plants. He adds: 'Pruning in the winter will encourage the production of flower buds and ensures the flowers won’t be obscured by vigorous whippy growth.'

As well as benefiting the plant, pruning during dormancy can also make life easier for the gardener. As Craig Wilson, gardening expert at Gardeners Dream, adds: 'Without the leaves, it's much easier to see the structure of the plant and make thoughtful cuts that won’t be detrimental to your plants.'

If you live in a warmer climate, then it is best to prune in late winter before the wisteria starts to grow. However, if you live in a colder climate then it is best to wait to prune until the risk of frosts and snow have passed come spring.

It would be a pruning mistake to head out early and cut in the harsh winter weather, as it could jeapordize the health of your wisteria. This is because pruning during periods of extreme cold can damage the plant, prevent the wounds from healing properly, and leave the wisteria at risk of diseases. 

When to prune wisteria in summer 

Once you have done a winter prune, it is recommended to make a note in your gardening plan for the year to then cut wisteria in summer. This pruning is fairly simple and keeps the growth of the wisteria in check - merely by trimming back the long shoots that have grown that season so far.

Harriet Worsley of Worsley Design & Consultancy says that the months of July or August are the best time to prune wisteria in summer - after the wisteria has finished flowering.

On the reasons why summer pruning is an important task to remember each year, Harriet adds: ‘It stops the plant from getting too wild in the summer, and then allow the plant to focus its energy more intensely into fewer buds, which means better, fewer, intensive flowers later, rather than a mass of weaker or non-existent blooms.’

Risks of pruning wisteria at the wrong time 

For the overall long-term health it is recommended to only prune wisteria during the core two trimming windows. The only exception will be to prune dead, diseased, or damaged stems that you spot - these do need to be removed and such minor pruning should not pose a risk.

'Pruning at the wrong time can pose a couple of risks,’ says Craig Wilson. ‘Firstly, you run the risk of cutting off the flower buds that formed on last year's growth. Doing this will result in fewer blooms in the spring.’

Pruning during fall will also cause issues, as the wisteria will respond by putting out a flush of new growth. That material produced late in the growing season will be damaged by winter frosts, and that can leave the wisteria very stressed and increasingly vulnerable to pests and diseases. 

If you pruned in early winter that would also leave the wisteria at risk of the incoming cold weather. Frosts can penetrate into the exposed pruning cuts and cause damage to the plant, affecting its tissues and hindering the healing of the wounds caused by trimming. 

So, it is always recommended to only stick to the two ideal windows of late winter or early spring, and after flowering in summer, to prune your wisteria. This way your plants will remain healthy, under control, and flowering at their best year-after-year. 

FAQs

Can I prune my wisteria in June? 

Depending on your climate, and the variety of wisteria, you can potentially prune wisteria in June. Providing the plant has finished flowering, it can be a reasonable time to head out and trim. If the wisteria is still in full bloom, then you need to wait to give it the summer prune.

Now you should fully understand the right times to prune your wisteria, along with when it is best to avoid heading out with the pruning shears. If you live in a warmer climate, then make sure you add pruning wisteria to your late winter gardening checklist for plants to prune in February. For more wisteria information, consider our guide on how to grow wisteria from cuttings.

Star jasmine, or Trachelospermum jasminoides, is a versatile and popular climbing plant valued for its fragrant white flowers and lush foliage. Native to China and Japan, this evergreen climber thrives in a variety of climates and settings, making it a top pick for gardeners worldwide. Looking just as good in the winter garden as it does at the height of summer.

Training star jasmine to climb over a wall or perhaps a garden structure, such as a trellis, pergola or fence is relatively straightforward, and with regular tying in and support, the plant will quickly grow and establish itself.

White star-like flowers emerge in spring, with a honeyed fragrance that will fill your backyard with the sweetest scent. No wonder this climber is the go-to selection for those landscaping their yard or considering planting ideas for their garden and has been a favorite of mine for many years.

Star jasmine is not to be confused with summer jasmine, or Jasminum officinale. Whilst they may look similar, star jasmine is not actually in the jasmine plant family, it has simply been given this name because of aesthetic similarities.

This flowering climber is vigorous, however, and pruning is essential to keep star jasmine looking tidy and healthy. Without pruning, unruly shoots will begin to crowd out other plants and climb where they are not supposed to.

All it takes is a little attention and the occasional spot of maintenance, and your star jasmine will grow well, and importantly, where you want it to grow.

How to prune star jasmine

Pruning is essential to keep your star jasmine climber looking neat and tidy. With a small bit of attention, you will ensure that your flowering climber remains healthy and well maintained.

When to prune star jasmine

Pruning star jasmine isn’t a difficult task. Your climber will regrow quickly, so there is no need to worry too much about precision. Knowing when to prune, however, is important, as cutting back at the wrong time will reduce flowering and can cause damage to your climbing plant.

Star jasmine, as an evergreen vine, does not lose its leaves during winter and grows well through US hardiness zones 8 - 10. This 'easy to grow climber is a staple in the southern states,' says Jen McDonald, garden expert and a co-founder of Garden Girls.

Whilst its growth slows down during the colder months of the year, it will keep your yard looking lush and verdant. 'It can tolerate cold snaps to 10 degrees Fahrenheit,' Jen says.

As many gardeners will know, many deciduous climbers, such as climbing roses, can be pruned while dormant, but as star jasmine is not deciduous, and so a slightly different approach is needed.

Whilst different experts suggest different timings regarding the best time for pruning star jasmine, in my experience, this is best done after the main flowering period in late spring or early summer. Doing so at this time is recommended as you do not interfere or disturb the climber during the flowering period. And after all, who wouldn't want to make the most of the starry-white, scented blooms?

Following this heavy pruning, completed after flowering, which will involve a reduction in size and shaping the climber as required, I would suggest only an occasional, light pruning as and when necessary throughout the year.

'Once established, star jasmine requires minimal care,' Jen says, and an occasional butchering to the base is tolerated.' Whilst any butchering of plants is not recommended, the sentiment remains true. This hardy and vigorous climber is tough, and you should not be scared to get those pruning shears out... just make sure it is at the right time of year: after flowering has come to an end in late spring or early summer.

How to prune star jasmine

Star jasmine is 'known for its moderate to fast growth rate, averaging about 12 to 24 inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, plant expert and owner of You Had Me At Gardening.

If your star jasmine is a little unkept and overgrown, be brave, cutting back some vines by as much as one-third or even one-half can be necessary. Using sharp and clean secateurs, such as these pruning shears from Walmart, carefully prune your climber, making cuts above a shoot or bud. 'Regular trimming helps maintain a tidy appearance and encourages lateral growth,' Mike says.

When pruning large shrubs or climbing plants, I always find it helps to stand back and inspect your work. Doing so will help to guide your next move. Once you are satisfied with the shape, you can further train and guide your climber by tying the plant in the direction you want it to grow, using twine such as this Garden Twine from Walmart.

As Mike says, careful pruning can then promote lateral growth, ensuring that your climber remains bushy and healthy, and importantly, full of scented blooms. 'Avoid tying too tightly to allow for natural movement and prevent damage to the stems,' Mike says.

Following this, occasional trimming through the growing season might be necessary. I have grown star jasmine over the garden gate for several years, and dodging and diving out of the way of vines that hang low is not ideal. A small amount of trimming through the summer is just fine. Just remember that the annual heavy prune is best done in late spring or early summer after flowering has ended.

FAQs

Can I lift and replant star jasmine?

Whilst you can transplant star jasmine, this can be difficult depending on the size of your climbing plant. The ideal time to do this is late spring, allowing it to establish roots before any warm summer weather. Using a garden fork, gently loosen roots and soil at the base of your climber, slowly teasing your plant out of the soil. It is recommended to cut back your climber to only a few feet in height so that the plant can focus on root growth in the first year following replanting.

Star jasmine, as an evergreen climber, will eventually cover walls and garden structures with its attractive verdant foliage and sweetly scented flowers. For more information on this climber, see our guide on how to propagate star jasmine. Why not consider also planting winter jasmine, for a pop of yellow color that will help to add impact during the winter months?

If you need to disguise a wall, fence or building, or create a distraction from an unsightly view, fast-growing climbing plants are an effective solution.

From classic cottage garden sweet peas to more tropical passion flowers, there are many colorful climbers to choose from. Whatever your preference in terms of coverage and color, you are bound to find a fast-growing vine that suits your tastes.

In my experience, choosing one or more of the best fast-growing plants will fill your yard with joyful color, and quickly. And sometimes, we might not want to wait for years to enjoy the fruits of our labor. Here are 15 of my favorites, including evergreen stalwarts, tropical blooms and floral showstoppers.

15 of the best fast-growing climbing plants

Many fast-growing climbers will give you good coverage in record time. So, if you are seeking effective garden screening ideas but don't want to wait, this guide is for you.

1. Akebia quinata

• Best for: Trellis, pergolas and fences, semi-evergreen foliage
• Height: 30ft
• Spread: 6-10ft
• Hardiness: USDA 5-9

A semi-evergreen, woody-stemmed climbing plant that thrives on neglect, the chocolate vine is undeniably vigorous.

However, a word of warning, it does require managing in smaller backyards, as it is considered an invasive climber in some US states.

It looks good planted near seating areas or gateways, where you will notice the small spring flowers and catch the subtle fragrance.

These are a deep maroon colour – or choose a creamy white variation, such as ‘White Chocolate’.

Live chocolate vine starter plants can be ordered from Amazon.

2. Cobaea scandens

• Best for: Trellis, arbors, pollinators
• Height: 10-20ft
• Spread: 1-2ft
• Hardiness: USDA 9-10

This is a wonderful annual or tender perennial that’s easy to grow from seed and it will soon be clambering up through supports or growing through other plants with its self-twining tendrils.

Grow from seed and plant in fertile soil and full sun, in containers or borders.

Within 16 weeks, the first of the huge bell-shaped flowers will appear. These will keep coming until the first frosts and maybe later still in sheltered urban gardens.

Fascinatingly beautiful from bud to seed, you can grow the purple species or the ‘Alba’ variation.

Cobaea seeds can be ordered via Amazon.

3. Passion flower

• Best for: Productive screens, pollinators, fences, arbors, trellis
• Height: 20-30ft
• Spread: 20-30ft
• Hardiness: USDA 9-11

With great foliage, stunning, fragrant flowers, and, in the right climate, delicious fruit, Passiflora is a fantastic, fast-growing flowering vine.

With a sprawling habit, they need room to spread and good support. These are tropical plant natives, so semi-evergreen, but vulnerable in exposed gardens over winter.

There are many gorgeous cultivars to choose from. Nature Hills recommends ‘Possum Purple’, which produces stunning edible fruits. To encourage fruiting, the experts advise that hand pollination might be necessary.

4. Honeysuckle

• Best for: Hummingbirds, tumbling over walls
• Height: 10ft
• Spread: 5ft
• Hardiness: USDA 4-8

Climbing honeysuckles are valued for their sweet-smelling summer blooms, plus they are a wonderful flower for attracting hummingbirds.

The native North American species is the coral honeysuckle, or Lonicera sempervirens, which is a remarkably tough plant, suited to sun and part shade and doesn’t suffer from pests and diseases.

'Coral honeysuckle is one of the best flowering climbers,' says Tatiana Anderson, plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals, based in Florida.

'For the best results, plant it from zone 4 plus in sunny or part-shade spots.'

Coral honeysuckle live plants are available at Amazon.

No pruning is necessary, other than to modify the natural sprawling habit – sturdy support from a wall or fence is required. Flowers appear on new and old growth.

5. Sweet peas

• Best for: Scent, containers and borders
• Height: 6ft
• Spread: 2ft
• Hardiness: USDA 2-11

One of the classic fast-growing climbing plants for summer, Lathyrus odoratus is a fabulous scented annual flower, plus it makes a wonderful homegrown cut flower.

Available in myriad pastel shades or stronger reds and purples, it’s easy to grow from seed. Sweet pea seeds are available at Walmart.

For best results when growing sweet peas, plant them in fall and overwinter under cover, or you can direct sow in spring.

Grow in full sun and fertile soil, with a wooden wigwam or metal pyramid support in a large container or in a border, to add structure, height and color.

6. Potato vine

• Best for: Pergolas and porches
• Height: 25ft
• Spread: 15ft
• Hardiness: USDA 9-11

Not an edible root in sight, the potato vine is all about leafy coverage with pretty white or purple flowers.

Good for sun and part shade, they will quickly adorn pergolas and porches, adding shade and ornament.

Easy to look after, they tolerate dry conditions once established, and in warmer areas, they can be more of an evergreen climber as they will hold onto their leaves through the cooler months.

With a long flowering season through the summer, they are hardworking plants. Choose Solanum jasminoides for white flowers (available at Nature Hills) or S. crispum ‘Glasnevin’ for bright purple flowers with yellow centers.

7. Trumpet creeper

• Best for: Covering garden buildings
• Height: 40ft
• Spread: 20ft
• Hardiness: USDA 4-9

If you want to attract hummingbirds to your yard, this is the fast-growing climbing plant for you, as the birds find the flowers irresistible.

It's easy to see why, too, as the brilliant red trumpet-like tropical flowers that give this climber its name are simply stunning.

In terms of how to grow trumpet vine, this North American native is a vigorous, fast grower that prefers full sun but is tolerant of some shade and is very easy to care for.

Live trumpet creeper plants are available at Walmart.

8. Spanish flag

• Best for: Containers
• Height: 15ft
• Spread: 12ft
• Hardiness: USDA 9-11

This is a Mexican annual native and a member of the morning glory family that includes both the invasive Ipomoea purpurea and sweet potatoes.

The Spanish flag, or Ipomoea lobata, is one of the more unusual and brightly colored species.

The two-tone yellow and red flowers produced from midsummer until the first frosts live up to their name as the firecracker vine.

Sow seeds in spring and plant into a container garden with a wigwam or metal trellis for support. Great for adding height to hot-colored borders. It will die back over winter.

Spanish flag plant seeds can be ordered via Amazon.

9. Crimson glory vine

• Best for: Fall foliage color
• Height: 50ft
• Spread: 20ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6-9

The crimson glory vine, or Vitis cognetiae, is a fantastic, fast-growing climbing plant that gives rich textured coverage to walls and garden fences.

The leathery foliage turns a brilliant, rich, red-maroon in fall, which will help to extend interest and impact in the yard through to December.

It’s very vigorous and will put on a lot of growth over the summer, before producing small, inedible grapes. Grow in full sun or part shade in fertile soil types.

Crimson glory vine seeds can be bought from Amazon.

10. Kiwi vine

• Best for: Productive gardens
• Height: 12ft
• Spread: 5ft
• Hardiness: USDA 3-8

For a beautiful, leafy fruiting vine, look no further than the Kiwi.

Good for plots of all sizes, it will suit a pergola, trellis or fence, as long as it is a sunny, sheltered spot.

The self-fertile species recommended by Nature Hills, Actinidia arguta 'Issai', will reward you with a froth of pollinator-friendly, fragrant spring flowers followed by plenty of produce.

This is a fast, easy-to-grow climber that will suit a range of soil types and needs minimal pruning over winter to maintain size and shape.

For a more highly ornamental foliage effect, try the non-fruiting Actinidia kolomikta, also from Nature Hills, with pink and white variegated foliage.

11. Evergreen clematis

• Best for: Year-round greenery
• Height: 8ft
• Spread: 8ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6-9

'For an evergreen, fast-growing, flowering vine, you won't find any better than the evergreen clematis,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

'The evergreen clematis, also known as Clematis Armandii, is one of the best evergreen climbers,' Alex says, 'thriving in sunny or shady spots.'

It has deep, leathery leaves which add year-round interest while the pink or white blooms that erupt in spring add a stunning pop of colour.

For another white flowering clematis, try this 'Snowdrift' variety, available from Amazon, which will quickly cover fences and walls with blooms.

12. Star jasmine

• Best for: Floral scent
• Height: 20-30ft
• Hardiness: USDA 8-10

Star jasmine is an impressive fast-growing flowering vine for incorporating into your front yard flower bed ideas as it will help to perfume the approach to your home.

Alternatively, you can learn how to grow star jasmine in pots to support your patio ideas, and the pretty flowers will bring a sweet scent to your patio.

Star jasmine live plants can be ordered via Amazon.

Despite their name, these fast-growing flowering vines are not actually part of the jasmine family.

Though they have very similar flowers and a sweet jasmine scent, it is actually an evergreen woody liana vine. Regardless, their growing requirements are very similar to how to grow jasmine, and the star jasmine thrives in sun or dappled shade.

13. Sausage vine

• Best for: Unusual blooms
• Height: 20ft
• Spread: 13ft
• Hardiness: USDA 9-10

From the name, the broad-leaved sausage vine might seem like an unusual addition to the garden. However, Holboellia latifolia is one of the best evergreen climbers and will add both color and texture to the garden.

Reaching a height of 20 feet, it hardy down to zone 9, so it is best suited to warmer climes and paired with other tropical garden ideas.

Come spring, they erupt in a profusion of pinky-yellow flowers which cascade from the towering vine.

Their stunning springtime display is sure to leave you wondering why it took you so long to introduce these beautiful, fast-growing flowering vines into your garden.

14. Golden hop

• Best for: Green flowers
• Height: 13ft
• Spread: 8ft
• Hardiness: USDA 4-8

Humulus lupulus, or the golden hop vine, has superb lime-yellow leaves that light up the garden.

In summer, it produces primrose-green cone flowers. Then, in fall, the leaves glow butterscotch, and the plant is hung with hops.

It’s popular with butterflies and moths, being a caterpillar food plant, so is ideal is you are looking to bolster your wildlife garden ideas this year.

Golden hop seeds are available via Amazon.

15. Wisteria

• Best for: Pendulous lilac blooms
• Height: 30ft
• Spread: 20ft
• Hardiness: USDA 4-9

Wisteria floribunda, or the Japanese wisteria, has elegant, long racemes of fragrant flowers in May and June.

Ideal for a sturdy pergola in sun, in moist, well-drained soil, this fast-growing vine will require pruning twice a year, once in summer and once in winter.

Remember to do your homework before adding this to your plot, as in some US states (such as South Carolina), this vine is classified as invasive.

Live 'Amethyst Falls' wisteria plants are available at Amazon.

FAQs

What is the quickest growing evergreen climber?

With varying levels of speed, ivies will provide leafy green coverage all year round. As self-clinging plants, they will grow over walls and fences and are great for disguising unsightly structures or chain link fences and are good for shady areas.

Once they take hold, however, they can prove to be thuggish and invasive plants and I wouldn’t recommend planting ivy in smaller gardens without a rigorous maintenance programme.

Variegated foliage types such as Hedera helix ‘Sulphur Heart’ or ‘Oro di Bogliasco’ have stunning decorative leaves. Golden English ivy live plants are available at Amazon.

These fast-growing climbing plants are the perfect choice for scrambling up a wall or fence to provide vertical color and privacy.

However, just as when choosing fast-growing ground cover plants or fast-growing shrubs, it's important to consider the eventual height and spread of your chosen plant to make sure it will suit your space.

Be prepared to prune and maintain your climber to ensure its growth doesn't get out of control.

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One of the most spellbinding plants for a garden, learn how to grow wisteria and you will enjoy the captivating blooms of this climber every year.

With its long racemes of flowers that clothe walls or pergolas with their color and scent, wisteria is one of the best climbing plants. It is one of the most romantic plants to put on a floral show in late spring into summer, with blooms in white, pink, mauve, blue, and purple; some are strongly scented, while others only have a light fragrance, and vary in their vigor and in the length of their racemes. As a fast growing flowering vine, wisteria must, however, be kept in check to ensure that it doesn't swamp a wall of a house or block pipes and gutters, so you need to know how to prune wisteria to keep it controlled and looking its best. The thick and woody stems will soon bend pipes, strangle trees, and possibly even disturb a house's foundations.

Treated with care, though, wisteria is one of the best flowering climbers you can grow and will last for many, many years. The hanging tails of pea-like blooms can clothe the front of a house to enhance its curb appeal and send their delicious perfume through open windows, or it can scramble over pergolas or smother backyard garden walls with its beautiful spring flowers.

Because some species have become invasive in part of the US, it’s important to learn about these very beautiful plants and how to grow wisteria to contain their vigor before planting them. There are also several native alternatives to invasive wisteria to consider, which might be a good option for time-short gardeners who cannot keep on top of regular pruning.

How to grow wisteria – the different varieties

‘Wisteria is a long-lived, woody vine that is a quintessential plant of many classic garden designs,’ says Maryland-based landscape architect and designer Kirsten Coffen. ‘But it’s an aggressive, fast grower that requires substantial pruning in late winter to keep it in in check.’

Before we begin the practical instructions on how to grow wisteria, let's talk which wisteria to plant.

Always purchase wisterias that are grafted (grown on rootstock) and come from a reputable supplier. This is recommended because wisteria grown from seed or cuttings tends to take many years to flower, when not grown on a more vigorous rootstock. If you are a patient gardener, consider our guide on how to grow wisteria from cuttings.

Forms of Chinese wisteria (W. sinensis) and silky wisteria (W. brachybotrys) are suitable for garden wall ideas and houses; whereas the Japanese wisteria (W. floribunda) is better for covering pergola ideas, where its very long racemes will not be covered by foliage.

Of the Japanese forms, ’Yae-kokuryu’ is a traditional purple variety; ‘Shiro-noda’ is an elegant white; the pink ‘Hon-beni’ would be at home in a cottage garden scheme; and the very long (up to 4ft/1.2m) racemes of ‘Kyushaku’ are white and violet.

If you live in one of the US states where W. sinensis or W. floribunda have become invasive plants (such as Virginia or North Carolina), it’s not advised to grow them or their more vigorous cultivars, unless you are prepared to keep them in careful check with pruning.

Instead, when looking at how to grow wisteria, choose one of the less aggressive cultivars, such as the beautiful white ‘Jako’, or opt for an American wisteria, such as W. frutescens ’Amethyst Falls’, which won’t strangle forests if it escapes from your garden. Other relatively compact options include W. frutescens var. macrostachya ‘Blue Moon’ and ‘Aunt Dee’, which both smell of sweet peas.

‘I have found success using the American native form of wisteria (W. frutescens 'Amethyst Falls'),’ says Connecticut-based landscape-designer Donna Christensen. ‘It is not as aggressive as the Chinese or Japanese forms. The fragrant purple flowers are a bit smaller and slightly tighter. However, I find it to bloom longer, and it is less inclined to take over. I use it where I want a soft sweep of fragrance and color over a mid-size arbor. It also blooms a little later than the Asian forms and sends out fewer runners. I have combined it with Asian varieties on a larger pergola for an extended bloom period, too.’

Thankfully, in many parts of the US and in the UK, wisteria is not an invading pest and easy to manage.

When to plant wisteria

The exact time to plant wisteria may differ depending on the hardiness zone where you live, but in many areas you will be looking to plant it between October and April, on a day when the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. This might be at the same time as you're planting climbing roses and other bare root plants.

Where is the best place to plant wisteria?

The best place to plant wisteria is where it can scramble up a support and its fragrant flowers can be enjoyed to the full.

‘Its beautiful spring-blooming cascade of purple, or white, fragrant flowers is best viewed when trained on a support, such as a sturdy pergola,’ says Kirsten Coffen.

Such a leafy, flowery canopy provides blissful shade in the heat of summer and is an ideal pergola shade idea. ‘We plant wisteria on rooftops in the city, training it to cover pergolas in order to provide shade,’ says Irene Kalina-Jones, landscape designer at Outside Space NYC in New York City. ‘But I also like it grown against buildings.’

It's best to grow wisteria in a sheltered site in full sun, such as a south or west-facing facade. The soil must be fertile and well-drained, so dig in plenty of organic matter, such as homemade compost upon planting.

If growing wisteria up a wall or the front of a house as a front garden wall idea, take the time to erect a sturdy frame for the wisteria to climb – potentially, over many decades. Wooden trellis can rot, so a tensioning system of wires is arguably better. The wires must tighten themselves as the plant puts on weight or be easy for you to tighten – via turnbuckles, for instance.

What is the best way to grow wisteria?

For how to grow wisteria successfully, follow these step by steps to start it off well. The method is that for planting bare root trees and shrubs:

1. Soak the wisteria

Soak the wisteria for an hour before planting by sitting the base of the pot in water.

2. Dig a hole of the correct size

While the wisteria is soaking, dig a hole at least 3ft (90cm) away from the wall it is going to climb. The hole ought to be 2-3 times wider than the wisteria’s container.

3. Loosen the soil, add compost

Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole well with a fork, and dig in organic matter, such as compost.

4. Position the wisteria

Check the position of the graft – the bulbous union between the roots and the main stem – is above the ground.

5. Plant the wisteria

Backfill with soil, and firm in to prevent air pockets. Then, water in.

How to grow wisteria in containers

If you're wondering how to grow wisteria in a small garden, ’it is possible to plant wisteria in a pot,’ says California-based garden designer Laura Morton. ‘I provide some support, like bamboo canes, and prune hard. I select the best 3-4 vines to establish structure and secure them into place with the stakes (say one at 1 o’clock another at 5, and another at 10). Then they get pruned to 2-4 foot. Over time I prune lateral 'streamers' to 3-5 buds (because that’s where they bloom in year 2) and remove suckers from the base.’

Grown in a pot, it is easier to keep a wisteria under control.

How do you train wisteria to climb?

Wisteria may be the queen of climbers as a vertical garden idea, but a queen can rule with an iron fist. Don’t be fooled by the cascade of softness: wisterias will swallow your house whole, if you let them.

Staring up at a mature wisteria in full bloom, it resembles a purple waterfall flowing over the front of the house. These plants are beautiful, mighty beasts that require twice yearly pruning to keep them in check. It’s worth going to see a sizeable old wisteria – such as those in Sierra Madre, California and Knole in Kent, England – both for the delight of seeing them, but also to realise their vigor.

‘I love wisteria for the fat buds in spring and the voluptuous scented cascades that follow, but it must be wrangled so as not to overwhelm,’ warns Laura Morton. ‘I often anchor individual vines to a wall to create a tracery in a pattern. This makes it easier to keep under control.’ The tracery will also stand out and look striking in winter.

Allow a new, young wisteria to climb to the top of the structure or wall you intend it to flower upon. Then begin to prune and tie in strong side stems horizontally, which will eventually create a whole wall of flowers, rather than just a mass of flowers at the top. It’s best to tie with flexible tubing ties that stretch as the plant grows, and to repeatedly untie and retie stems to prevent them becoming attached to the wires.

‘Since wisteria requires regular pruning, my main advice to those looking for a low-maintenance garden is: do not plant wisteria,’ says Irene Kalina-Jones, landscape designer at Outside Space NYC. ‘Only plant it if you have time to prune it and if you are a gardener or are prepared to hire someone to do it for you. If it isn’t pruned twice a year, it is a pest. I’ve taken enough of them out of back yards where they have escaped and turned into a nuisance, due to a lack of pruning.’

How long does it take for a wisteria to flower?

A baby wisteria may not flower for a few years after planting. To care for young wisteria plants and to ensure flowering, water them regularly and generously during their first two seasons, especially in drought or if the ground where they are planted is dry. Feed every spring with a general-purpose fertiliser until established, but never over-feed.

How long does wisteria take to grow?

Wisteria are quick to grow – growing up to 10 feet or more a year. This makes them a wonderful choice when you are looking for garden privacy ideas or garden shade ideas, as they will be in full leaf throughout the summer months. However, it also means that you have to be vigilant about pruning if you don't want them to take over your back yard or the outside of your house.

What does wisteria look like in winter?

True wisteria are deciduous, so will lose their leaves during the colder months. They are at their peak in spring and summer, when clothed in foliage and flowers, but once established, the thick woody stems of wisteria can still add interest to walls and structures even during fall and winter.

For more information, see our guide on how to fertilize wisteria, or our guide on what to do with wisteria in the fall, to keep your climbing plants looking their best at all times of year.

Squeeze more blooms into your garden by growing flowering climbers up walls, over pergolas, through trees, and along fencing. It's wonderful to go for a mix of flowering climbing plants to disguise hard landscaping and to provide a backdrop for your border planting.

Below, we have listed our pick of the best bloomers that scale dizzy heights – we think they're amongst the best climbing plants you can include in your garden design.

Best flowering climbers

From rampant flowering ramblers to delicate flowering climbers, this is our list of the best cottage garden plants to fill your backyard with if you want to recreate a typical English garden.

1. Best flowering climber for cottage garden charm

In May and June, the delicious vanilla-clove scent of this Clematis montana’s pink flowers hangs on the air. 

‘I love Montanas,’ says Irene Kalina-Jones, landscape designer at Outside Space NYC in New York City. ‘I love the leaf and flower shapes. You can easily prune them (depending on the type) or don’t prune them and they are fine to rumble away.’ 

Grow clematis over a pergola, garage, or long fence, in well-drained, moist neutral to alkaline soil in sun or semi-shade. There are many to choose from when deciding which are the best clematis to grow.

Prune clematis' dense bronze foliage after flowering, if birds aren’t nesting in it. 

Height: 26ft (8m). 

Hardiness: USDA 6-9 (UK H5). 

2. Best flowering climber for scent

Rosa ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ AGM – A glorious old Noisette rose, which produces a succession of richly scented blush to white flowers throughout summer and into fall. 

‘This beautiful rose is a dear and has the most comforting scent, like the smell of your favorite grandmother,’ says California-based garden designer Laura Morton. ‘Madame sounds refined, but she is a thug and will want to take over, so support is key (provide a strong arbor) and groom the canes once a year, so she doesn’t become too unruly.’ 

It will grow on any aspect – even a north-facing wall, and the healthy, almost thornless foliage makes it suitable for archways. 

Grow in rich, well-drained soil in sheltered sun or semi-shade. 

Hardiness: USDA 5-9 (UK H5). 

Height: 20ft (6m). 

3. Best flowering climber for wildlife

Lonicera periclymenum ‘Graham Thomas’ AGM - The ivory and gold flowers of this honeysuckle fill the air with scent on summer nights and attract hummingbirds and moths; then in fall, glossy red berries provide food for birds. 

This reliable deciduous climber will weave its way through the metal lattice of an archway in well-drained, moist soil in semi-shade. 

The US Forest Service says that L. periclymenum is not invasive in the States, but warns that some other forms (such as L. japonica) can be, so check what is invasive in your area before purchasing honeysuckle.  

Hardiness: USDA 5-9 (UK H6). 

Height: 20ft (6m).

4. Best flowering climber for large gardens

Wisteria sinensis ‘Prolific’ AGM – This beautiful Chinese wisteria is hung with racemes of blue-violet flowers (up to 12in/30cm long) that fill the air with incredible perfume in May and June. 

Suitable for a sheltered south or west-facing wall or facade, in moist, fertile, well-drained soil. 

Be wary of growing wisteria in states (such as Virginia) where W. sinensis is invasive, especially if you’re not prepared to prune wisteria biannually. 

Hardiness: USDA 5-8 (UK H6).

Height: 30ft (9m). 

5. Best flowering climber for scent

Lathyrus odoratus ‘Matucana’ AGM – An oldie but a goodie... ‘Matucana’ is arguably the best sweet pea for perfume. Burying your nose in a bunch of the violet-purple and port-wine flowers is a joy in summer. 

‘This maroon and violet bicolor variety has an outstanding scent and is deservedly popular,’ says sweet pea guru and supplier Roger Parsons, who holds a National Collection of Lathyrus in the UK. ‘It was found in a South American garden in 1955 and given the Award of Garden Merit in 2014, and I have given it my highest scent rating!’ 

Being a cut-and-come-again plant, the blooms must be constantly cut for the vase to maintain flower production. 

Sow this annual undercover now or in early spring and grow sweet peas throughout the summer. 

Hardiness: USDA 2-11 (UK H3). 

Height: 7ft (2m). 

6. Best flowering climber for semi-shade

Clematis ‘Princess Diana’ AGM - A texensis clematis to provide a blast of color from July to October with its abundant hot-pink trumpet flowers. 

‘I love summer clematis for a pop of intense color,’ says Irene Kalina-Jones, landscape designer at Outside Space NYC in New York City. ‘I like them on fencing or trellis or mixed with roses.’ 

Plant in well-drained, moist neutral to alkaline soil in sheltered sun or semi-shade; provide trellis for it to twine around, and ensure the roots are shaded by other plants. 

In March, cut down to buds 8in (20cm) above the ground. 

Hardiness: USDA 4-9 (UK H5).

Height: 7ft (2m). 

7. Best flowering climber for color

Rhodochiton atrosanguineus AGM – This wonderful climber resembles a cloud of parasols floating through the air when it blooms in late summer and early fall. 

The rich-pink and wine flowers are paired with heart-shaped leaves, in moist, well-drained soil in sun. 

Enjoy outdoors in warm regions; in cold climates, grow in a conservatory or as an annual. 

Hardiness: USDA 10-11 (UK H2). 

Height: 10ft (3m). 

8. Best flowering climber for evening perfume

 Jasminum officinale ‘Devon Cream’ (syn. ‘Clotted Cream’) – This jasmine creates heady heights with a mass of starry cream flowers that release spellbinding perfume on summer evenings. 

‘The evergreen or semi-evergreen climbing foliage and delicate white blooms of jasmine help screen or soften vertical walls and fences,’ says Oregon-based landscape architect and garden designer Bethany Rydmark, ‘and the summertime fragrance brings another sensory experience into the garden. Planting jasmine near a back deck or bedroom window can bring an effortless bit of aromatherapy to life, especially as you unwind at the end of the day.’ 

Grow jasmine in well-drained soil against a sheltered sunny wall. If necessary, trim after flowering, but avoid hard pruning as it can reduce flower power the following year. 

In cold areas, protect the base with horticultural fleece in winter. In warm regions, it is evergreen. 

Hardiness: USDA 7-10 (UK H5).

Height: 16ft (5m). 

9. Best flowering climber for eye-catching blooms

Clematis ‘Lambton Park’ AGM - In summer and early autumn, this tangutica clematis is hung with large lantern-shaped yellow flowers that look like lemon rind and smell of coconut. 

‘There are so many different types of clematis vines and depending upon the species and cultivar, they can offer blooms starting in the spring and span into early fall,’ enthuses Maryland-based landscape architect and designer Kirsten Coffen. 

‘Lambton Park’ is one of the best late-season forms and its blazing yellow flowers are followed by silky silver seedheads that catch the fall light. 

Grow in moist, well-drained soil. The bulk of the plant needs to climb in sun or semi-shade, but the roots must be in the cool shade of other plants. 

Hardiness: USDA 5-9 (UK H6). 

Height: 10ft (3m). 

10. Best flowering climber for training over shrubs 

Tropaeolum speciosum AGM – The flame nasturtium likes to scramble over mature shrubs, and when it flowers, during summer and fall, its red flowers transform them into burning bushes with vivid-scarlet flames. 

Excellent for livening up dull evergreens, such as boundary hedges. 

Grow nasturtium in moist, well-drained neutral to acid soil in sheltered sun or semi-shade; like a clematis, its feet need to be in shade. 

Height: 16ft (5m). USDA 8-10 (UK H5). 

What is the best flowering climber?

The best flowering climber really depends on your needs and the size of your backyard, but we think the repeat-flowering climbing rose ‘Madame Alfred Carrière’ comes out tops. The beautiful blush-white flowers are romantic and fill the air with scent all summer long. Even in cool, temperate regions, it will often flower well into autumn, and – unlike many roses – it is tolerant of a north-facing wall and almost thornless. 

What is the easiest flowering climber to grow

The mountain clematis (Clematis montana) is a doddle to grow and has the vigor to cover a pergola or summerhouse. Having an English-cottage-garden look, it adds informal charm to a garden. The gorgeous pink or white flowers fill the air with vanilla-clove perfume and the dense bronze foliage provides shelter and nesting for birds. 

Who wants to stare at bare walls or empty fences in their yard? No one, in truth. So, using some of the best evergreen climbers is always a good idea, especially if you want to guarantee year-round interest even during the depths of winter.

Making the most of vertical surfaces in your plot is also a good idea to visually extend your garden's boundaries and to create privacy, which can be important in cities, where many of us have overlooked yards. And while deciduous jasmines and clematis are striking in summer, incorporating one or more of the best evergreen climbers is a must, in my opinion.

So, if you are looking to grow some of the best climbing plants this year, I have put together an expert-approved guide for the greenest options with year-round interest, including some you might not have heard of before.

10 of the best evergreen climbers

I have always loved climbing plants. Wherever I have gardened, I have found that growing upwards helps to make the most of a space. Even on balconies, using tripods or trellises can help to maximize growing space.

Below, you will find a summary table of the best evergreen climbers at a glance. You can then read on to find out more information and helpful growing tips for each of the 10 easiest climbers that are evergreen, ideal for those seeking vertical garden ideas.

1. Best evergreen climbers for shade

Often thought of as one of the best climbing plants for shade, ivy is the ultimate plant for providing evergreen cover. This vigorous plant will grow almost anywhere from US hardiness zone 4 plus, although be warned, it can be a vigorous grower with invasive tendencies, so regular pruning is necessary.

Try this English ivy, available from Nature Hills, for a quick-growing evergreen option.

'Give evergreen ivy a hard prune once a year during late winter or early spring before the nesting season begins,' says Jen McDonald, garden expert and a co-founder of Garden Girls. 'Many wildlife species including birds and bees depend on ivy as a source of shelter, so wait until this time to trim.'

One species to consider is Hedera colchica ‘Sulphur Heart’, which can be used either to clad walls or as ground cover. This variegated variety gives a bit of light reflection in the shade and is effective when growing against walls or trees.

2. Best evergreen climber for pots

If you have a small space, why not learn how to grow evergreen clematis? This impressive vine can be grown in pots or borders, and more than earns its spot in any yard.

Evergreen clematis, or Clematis armandii, is one of the best clematis species to select and can easily be grown from zone 6 to zone 9, thriving in a sunny spot or part-sun-part-shade.

While slow to establish, eventually this vine can reach up to 20 feet in length. Annual pruning will keep it compact and growing where you want it to grow.

3. Best evergreen climber for scent

One of the best flowering climbers has to be star jasmine, Trachelospermum jasminoides.

Star jasmine is 'known for its fast growth rate, averaging about 12 to 24 inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, plant expert and owner of You Had Me At Gardening.

'Regular trimming helps to keep this vigorous evergreen climber in check,' Mike says.

The neat, dark-green foliage can be trained in any manner of shapes: for example, on pergolas or hazel domes.

When in flower during the summer months, the heady fragrance is also unbeatable. Grow star jasmine somewhere sheltered from US hardiness zone 8 plus.

4. Best evergreen climber for trellis

The fast-growing Chocolate vine is one of the best climbers to grow in pots with a trellis or plant support, producing masses of attractive dark maroon chocolate-scented flowers in summer.

Growing best from zone 5 plus, the chocolate vine, or Akebia quinata, will retain much of its foliage in milder zones even during the winter, although in zones 5 and 6, you may notice some leaf drop.

For the best results, grow in sun or part shade, and shelter in cold areas.

Live chocolate vines are available from Amazon. Be warned, however, that in some regions, this species is considered an invasive climber, so do your homework before adding it to your collection.

5. Best evergreen climber for flowers

If you are looking for one of the best evergreen climbers for flowers and fragrance, Lonicera implexa, otherwise known as the evergreen honeysuckle, is a good option.

One of the best honeysuckles, this species has large, dense, glossy leaves and produces spring flowers that smell of melon and jasmine, ideal if you want to make a sensory garden.

Plant this climber in part-shade or sheltered sun, growing best from US hardiness zone 8 plus.

6. Best evergreen climber for summer and fall color

The Chilean bellflower, or Lapageria rosea, is hung with enchanting, big, waxy pink-red blooms during late summer and fall.

It grows best in equatorial regions like US hardiness zones 9 and 10, so in cold regions, this tender plant should be grown in a conservatory.

Provide it with something to twine around, such as an obelisk, available from Walmart, growing in moist, well-drained acid-to-neutral soil, in a sheltered semi-shade or shaded spot.

7. Best evergreen climber for filling walls

Try growing an English ivy variety like Hedera helix ‘Buttercup’, which will inject the garden with greenery, even in the depths of winter. This species has lemon-lime coloring, which is unique for an evergreen.

What's more, this species is slow-growing and far less vigorous than other forms of H. helix, which ought to be avoided in the midwest states, where they are considered invasive.

Growing best in US zones 4 to 9, this ivy thrives in well-drained neutral to alkaline soil.

8. Best evergreen climber for pollinators

Pileostegia viburnoides is a leafy, self-clinging, climbing hydrangea that will thrive in darker yards. The tiny ivory flowers open in clouds from August above long, glossy green leaves.

It can take a few years to bloom, but it’s worth the wait. Growing well in US hardiness zone 8 plus, the nectar-rich blooms will soon attract every insect in the area, which is great for your wildlife garden ideas.

However, this is probably one plant to keep a good distance away from your seating areas, unless you enjoy buzzing company when you are dining.

9. Best evergreen climber for winter color

Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’ is one of the best clematis varieties that is surprisingly evergreen. The flowers open from November to February, with heavily speckled maroon blooms and provide food for bees.

You can pretty much grow them anywhere in the garden, including fences and free-standing trellis.

Being more tender than most other clematis, ‘Freckles’ requires a sheltered south or west-facing wall, in moist, well-drained neutral to alkaline soil, growing best from US hardiness zone 7 plus.

10. Best evergreen climber for privacy

Solanum crispum ‘Glasnevin’, or the Chilean potato tree, is a climbing shrub that produces fragrant blue-purple flowers in summer and early fall, followed by inedible yellow fruit.

Although it is in the potato family, it's one of the prettiest evergreen plants, but be warned that all parts of it are poisonous.

Grow in moist, well-drained neutral to alkaline soil in the sun and tie in to a wire framework or trellis. It is evergreen in warm regions, but only hardy down to US zone 9.

One of our favorite varieties is the striking white potato vine, or Solanum laxum 'Album', which produces a mass of starry pale blooms each year.

FAQs

What is a fast-growing evergreen climber you recommend?

Star jasmine is a fast-growing evergreen climber that will happily scramble over trellis, pergolas and arches. It does need to be tied in and pruned to keep it shapely, but it retains its glossy green leaves throughout the year and rewards you with star-shaped, scented flowers in spring.

Whatever climbers you decide to grow, be sure to keep them well watered for the first year, while they settle into your yard. Most species will eventually become drought-tolerant, particularly ivies and honeysuckles, but keep an eye on them during year one for the best results.

For more inspiration, see our guide to winter climber ideas, and fill your yard with even more evergreen options.

Shop planting accessories

Once you know how to grow jasmine successfully you’ll find it’s an adaptable, tolerant climbing plant that will reward your efforts with a show of delicate flowers that goes on for months.

Prized for its intoxicating summer fragrance and dainty flowers, jasmine is a valuable addition to any garden. It’s a vigorous climber and evergreen types are used to soften boundary walls or fences all year round. You can even opt for star jasmine, for star-shaped flowers.

And if you can plant it near an outdoor seating area you'll be able to enjoy its scent on warm days. In other words, it's a definite must-have on any flower bed ideas wish list.

How to grow jasmine

Below, there's advice and expert tips on how to grow jasmine, plus information on how to grow winter jasmine.

How to grow summer jasmine

Summer jasmine (jasminum officinale), also known as common or true jasmine, or sometimes poet’s jasmine, flowers through June, July and August, producing a heady scent.

Jasmine thrives in well-drained soil in a sheltered part of the garden. It prefers full sun but can also tolerate part shade. It’s deciduous – sheds its leaves – but in sheltered positions becomes semi-evergreen. For those living in smaller spaces, why not learn how to grow jasmine in pots, for a fragrant container display?

Is jasmine easy to grow?

Jasmine is very easy to grow. If you’re buying a jasmine plant from a nursery or garden center, look for one with vigorous healthy shoots and leaves. You can plant summer jasmine in your garden in spring or autumn, although less-hardy varieties should be protected or kept in a greenhouse over winter. Most varieties survive well in a sheltered spot outside.

You can also plant jasmine in pots – in fact, for us, it's one of those container gardening ideas you can successfully take with you when you move home – or relocate a seating area. You will need to provide some kind of wigwam support, and a generous-sized container of at least 45cm diameter. Fertilizing jasmine can also be a good idea to encourage blooming during the growing season.

How to plant jasmine

Gardeners’ World's TV gardening expert Monty Don is a big fan of jasmine. ‘When it’s in full glory it can cover a wall in this mass of flower that repeats,' he says. It's a tender plant, but sited next to a south-facing sunny wall, it has the protection and warmth it needs. Monty Don adds grit to improve drainage, saying 'You can’t go wrong improving the drainage for any plant that loves being baked in sunshine.’

To get your jasmine off to a good start, dig your planting hole slightly bigger than the pot, adding grit to improve the drainage, and compost or well-rotted manure to feed the plant and boost its flower power.

Backfill with soil to the same level as it was in its original pot. If you’re planning to train it up a support, young plants will need a cane angled towards the support to point them in the right direction. Keep new and established jasmines healthy and productive by feeding a high-potash feed once a week in summer.

Does summer jasmine need support?

Summer jasmine doesn’t need support, as it will twine its way upwards – perfect if you're looking for easy to train, scented flowers to complement the pergola ideas you're considering. However, you may prefer to use some supports to train it to grow where you want it and keep them in check.

We asked gardening expert Jenny Williams for her advice on how to grow jasmine and support it successfully. Along with her husband Tom, Jenny designed, planted and tends the garden at The Laundry in Wales and documents the garden on her Instagram account @thelaundrygarden.

Jenny advises that ‘once established, jasmine can become quite large vigorous climbers. The best way to support them is to either grow them up a tall strong sturdy pergola frame or, if growing against a wall, use taut horizontal wires, held by vine eyes, spacing the wires approximately 30-40cm apart with the lowest wire being 30cm above soil level.’

Recommended varieties of summer jasmine

Jenny Williams suggests her two favorite varieties of summer jasmine which she grows in her own garden in Wales:

Jasminum officinalis ‘Aureum’ (Golden Jasmine); ‘This has bright golden foliage and pure white scented spring/summer blossom’ says Jenny.

And 'Jasminum officinale Argenteovariegatum, which has grey green leaves that are margined with cream fragrant white flowers that fllower all summer. It is happily climbing against a south facing wall by the entrance to my potting shed.’

Another pretty variety to try is the pink jasmine, jasminum polyanthum, but keep it in check as it can grow as high as 20ft. In warmer zones this may flower all year round.

Good companion plants for summer jasmine

‘If your white-flowered summer jasmine is climbing a pergola or trellis, it will look even better with another flowering plant growing through it,’ says Melanie Griffiths, editor of Period Living magazine.

‘Fellow climbers such as clematis are ideal. Varieties with dark purple flowers, such as Clematis x jackmanii or Clematis x “Julka” would provide a dramatic contrast to the jasmine's white flowers. Jackmanii grows to 12 feet (3.7 m), while Julka reaches 8 feet (2.4 m).’

Does summer jasmine need pruning?

Yes, says expert Jenny Williams. She advises ‘to keep them in check and looking their best, the best time to prune is just after flowering in late summer or early autumn. Cut back flowered stems to a strong side shoot lower down, always keep in mind when pruning winter and summer jasmine that they flower on previous years growth, so pruning after flowering gives the new growth time to mature for the next season.’

Trimming the tops of the vines will also encourage a fuller, more bushy growth.

How to grow winter jasmine

Winter jasmine, or jasminum nudiflorum is a real ray of sunshine throughout the long winter months. You may spot the first flowers as early as November and they will keep coming right through to March. Winter jasmine brightens the dark days with its masses of little yellow star-shaped flowers on dark green foliage.

What conditions do you need to grow winter jasmine?

Winter jasmine is frost hardy and easy to grow. It shares its summer cousin’s preference for full sun in fertile, well-drained soil but copes well in part shade.

However, unlike summer jasmine, this winter shrub’s stems are stiff and do not twine, so it is best grown with some kind of support – either a trellis or wires.

Jenny Williams says, ‘It’s really important to try and keep tying in the new growth in order to create a more pleasing look, it can be pruned once the flowers have faded in the spring, by doing this it gives the new growth time to mature and flower next year.’

When do you plant winter jasmine?

The best time to plant winter jasmine is in autumn or winter, if you’re planting at other times make sure you avoid extremes of heat and cold.

Winter jasmine has hardly any fragrance, however, bees love it and it provides an essential source of winter pollen for wildlife during winter months when there's not much else around. Another good reason to plant this cheery shrub.

What is false jasmine?

False jasmine, sometimes called star jasmine or confederate jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is not part of the jasminum family at all but is often referred to as a jasmine because of its star-like flowers and heady jasmine-like scent. It flowers through the summer and has glossy oval leaves and shares the same growing conditions as common summer jasmine.

Whichever jasmine you choose to plant, put it in the right place and you'll be rewarded with a wealth of delicate star-shaped flowers, and for summer flowering varieties you'll have the added bonus of their fragrance, too.