Sometimes it can be harder to feel motivated when the temperatures drop and days are shorter in the fall. It is understandable why gardening may take a back seat, but it is not too late to make a positive difference, as these last-minute planting ideas before winter prove.

The good news for anyone who has procrastinated over a long fall gardening checklist is that there is still time. It is not too late to make additions to your garden for quick wins, like heart-warming, bright blooms to brighten up the cold days or quick harvests for winter meals.

We want to show you what can be done even at this late stage of fall. To help do this, I spoke to some plant experts to get their recommendations for quick wins to boost any winter garden. They shine a spotlight on five great last-minute planting ideas before winter to put a smile on your face.

Last-minute planting ideas before winter – expert suggestions

You need to plant the following before the first frosts, but when the feeling of winter truly arrives in your area will depend on your US hardiness zone. If your ground is still workable, then there is still time for these last-minute planting ideas.

1. Hellebores

There are hellebore varieties in a stunning array of colors, but the most synonymous with the festive period is Helleborus niger, also known as the Christmas rose. This winter-blooming perennial plant grows to 12 inches tall and produces white bowl-shaped flowers flushed with pink.

Emma Fell, head of horticulture at Hillier Garden Centres, calls the Christmas rose ‘perfect’ for any winter garden, as the plants bloom from late December onwards, which is a great reason to start growing hellebores.

‘These hardy perennials produce large, nodding flowers in shades of white, even in frosty conditions,’ continues Emma. ‘Plant them now in a sheltered, shady spot with well-drained soil to enjoy their elegant blooms right around Christmas.’

If you want to plant hellebores in your yard before winter, this live Helleborus ‘Ivory Prince’ plant at Amazon comes in a one-gallon pot and produces creamy white flowers.

2. Pansies

Pansies may be small, but they are mighty plants to provide pops of color throughout the colder months. Along with violas, which are smaller and have fewer petals but are equally vibrant, they make some of the prettiest winter flowers for pots.

‘Pansies and violas are great bedding plants to plant in November, as they'll continue blooming and providing pops of garden color through the winter,’ says Michael Clarke, landscape architect and horticulturalist.

There is a wide variety of winter pansies and violas to choose from, in dynamic colors including purple, blue, red, white, and orange. They can range from bright yellow to dark purple. Some violas and pansies come with bicolor combinations, or you can get mixes featuring blends of colors.

‘Plant them now, and these resilient flowers will continue blooming through winter, adding charm and colour throughout the Christmas season and beyond,’ adds Emma Fell.

Plant pansies into late fall, up until the first frosts, into containers or at the front of flower beds that get lots of seasonal sun. For an eclectic mix of plants, this six-pack of multicolored live pansy plants at Walmart can be planted up for a wonderful display of winter blooms.

3. Cyclamen

These small perennials are perfect for providing a splash of color in winter, when little else is out. If you like the idea of small white, pink and purple flowers during the colder months, then varieties of Cyclamen coum are perfect for this.

There are 23 different species of cyclamen, including ones that flower in the fall and tender indoor cyclamen types suited for growing as indoor plants. But Cyclamen coum is a classic winter-flowering plant, with delicate flowers on tall stems atop rounded leaves.

‘Perfect for shaded areas, these plants thrive in cool conditions,' says Emma. ‘Plant them in pots or garden beds now, and they’ll bring a graceful touch of color to your garden or doorstep, just in time for Christmas.’

Plant cyclamen in part-shade areas of the yard, into fertile and well-draining soil types. These plants like an annual mulch with leaf mold, as it helps to mimic their natural woodland habitats.

You can get a hardy Cyclamen coum plant at Nature Hills to enjoy pink-purple flowers in variegated heart-shaped foliage in winter and spring.

4. Winter Jasmine

If you want a winter-flowering shrub to plant in the fall that can bring delight on gloomy, cold days, then winter jasmine may be one of the best you can pick. With bright yellow flowers blooming on bare stems, it is a unique frost-hardy winter climber to brighten even the bitterest winter days.

Emma Fell describes the standout blooms of winter jasmine as a ‘stunning contrast to the winter landscape’. She adds: ‘Plant now in a sunny or partially shaded location, and they will bloom early in winter, making them a perfect addition to any Christmas display.’

To grow winter jasmine successfully, plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot. It thrives in rich, well-draining soil, and adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, before planting provides essential plant nutrients to get it off to a great start.

You can get a live Jasminum nudiflorum plant at Amazon suitable for growing in zones 5-10.

5. Cold-hardy greens

If you want last-minute planting ideas before winter for your vegetable garden, then cold-hardy greens are definitely the way to go. You can plant the likes of spinach, bok choy, mustards, or corn salad into vegetable beds, raised beds, or cold frames to provide tasty harvest through winter and into spring.

‘These are simple, low-effort choices that overwinter and ‘wake up’ in spring, giving you that confidence booster and food long before anything planted in spring catches up,’ claims Tiffany Rodriguez, the founder of Growing With Tiff. ‘I always mulch heavily with leaves or straw to lock in warmth and moisture, and I add a row cover as a winter blanket.’

For quick wins and earlier harvests, harvest the greens as a cut-and-come-again vegetable. This can start by snipping baby leaves, which can be as little as a month after sowing seeds outdoors or even less if you buy seedlings to transplant into your veg plot before winter.

Covering plants with frost cloth, as suggested by Tiffany, helps to get seeds and young plants off to a good start by protecting plants from frost. It also helps you to overwinter vegetables and keep the harvest coming. Alternatively, cover plants with cloches or portable cold frames to protect them from the worst of the winter cold.

If you are looking for even more planting inspiration, we are here to help. These guides to vegetables to plant in November and flowers to sow in November contain lots of information and expert advice. The reward can be crops to harvest throughout the colder months and earlier blooms in spring.

It might not be time yet for a gardener to rest on their laurels. In milder climates of US hardiness zones 7-9, the grip of winter may not have fully hit, and that means it is time for a late spurt of gardening action. So, here are seven late fall garden jobs you shouldn’t skip to get your yard ready for winter.

Before the worst of the winter weather arrives, there may be time for some pruning, planting, and mulching, as well as collecting leaves and getting all your plants adequately protected ahead of the frost.

I worked year-round outdoors as a professional gardener in zone 8 in the UK, and there was no let-up in November. The to-do list was brimming with important jobs to keep the garden looking at its best, prepare it for winter, and ensure it bounced back as you’d expect come spring. To help you plan your late fall, I have identified seven tasks to add to your fall gardening checklist to get your yard in top shape.

7 late fall garden jobs you shouldn't skip

Whether or not the time is right to complete all of these tasks will depend on your US hardiness zone. Those in mild or warmer climates should still have time before the temperatures plummet and freezing winds arrive to complete some of the following jobs.

1. Do some pruning

Late fall pruning is not ideal for all plants, but there may be time to start trimming some deciduous plants that go dormant for winter. The window for pruning opens in November and runs till around March.

Provided the temperatures are not freezing, you may have an opportunity to prune ornamental trees, fruit trees, soft fruit bushes, and some herbaceous perennials. To find more pruning inspiration, our guides to plants to prune in November and trees to prune in November showcase those you can trim this month, along with tips for each.

However, not all plants are suited to pruning this month. It would be a pruning mistake to trim spring-flowering shrubs, for example, as you would cut off the buds to carry next year’s blooms. For more tips, we reveal some perennials not to cut back in fall.

Keep your pruning tools clean and sharp before pruning this late fall. A pocket-sized tool sharpener like this from Amazon can be a useful tool for keeping pruning shears or loppers sharp while out in the garden.

2. Move plants

Late fall offers a window to lift and transplant shrubs or perennials if they are in the wrong place, or if you are having a redesign of flower beds or borders.

Moving plants during dormancy avoids overly-stressing them. The cooler temperatures and moist soil of the fall are ideal, with the only caveat being that you want to get them shifted before the ground freezes in winter.

To transplant a shrub or perennial, dig a large circle around the plant to lift it from the ground with a lot of soil remaining on the rootball. Plant it again in its new home, and give it a thorough watering and a few inches of mulch.

If a perennial plant has gotten overgrown, it can also be a good time to divide plants. Do this by splitting the clump with a sharp spade or knife, and replanting each section wherever it is desirable.

3. Mulch beds and borders

Mulching is an always-recommended fall gardening task, and there is still time to do it. Provided the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged, adding a 2-3 inch layer of organic types of mulch offers many benefits to your plants.

In a nutshell, mulching flower beds or mulching a vegetable garden in the fall retains moisture in the soil, suppresses weeds, provides an insulating layer for roots against frost, and also boosts soil nutrients as it breaks down. All of these help your plants through winter and beyond.

The best fall mulching materials include compost, leaf mold or wood chips, such as this all-natural organic mulch at Walmart. Spread the organic material evenly, but never pile it against tree trunks or shrub stems, as this mulching mistake risks the plant rotting.

For an easy alternative, you can also use cardboard as mulch if you have lots of old boxes around the house. Remove any tape, labels and staples, overlap a few layers of cardboard, and soak them to help them stay in place.

You can get cardboard rolls to avoid laying out lots of individual boxes. For example, this corrugated cardboard roll at Amazon is 12 inches wide and over 30 feet long and will cover lots of ground. Such a roll is also ideal for making no-dig garden beds, just cover the cardboard with a thick layer of compost.

4. Add bare-root plants

Bare-root plants are commonly available from late fall onwards, and they offer a budget-friendly way to plant a large selection of trees and shrubs, both ornamental and edible, as well as hedging plants. They are added to a garden when dormant, and arrive without a container or soil around the roots.

You can plant bare-root trees or shrubs in late fall or early winter, provided the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged. It is advisable to soak the roots of bare-root plants for at least an hour before planting and to add organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure, to the planting site.

There are so many trees and shrubs you can get bare-root in late fall, it would be impossible to list them all. To mention just a few, the likes of maple, beech, birch, crabapple and many fruit trees can be planted this way. When it comes to shrubs, you can get bare-root roses, viburnum, mahonia, forsythia, and many more.

If you are interested in adding fruit to your garden, our piece on fruits to plant in November reveals lots of bare-root options you can pick from for years of delicious harvests.

5. Collect leaves

If you’ve still got fallen leaves over your lawn or driveway, take advantage of this valuable natural resource by collecting leaves and making use of them. Use those fallen leaves to mulch plants, make leaf mold, or add to the compost to boost your future soil health.

You can be selective of where you collect leaves from, rather than trying to clear every square inch of your garden. Always collect leaves from your lawn to prevent bare patches of grass or disease issues over winter. And diligently remove them from paths and driveways for safety, to stop them from becoming a slip hazard. However, leaves can be left on flower beds to mulch plants and provide shelter to wildlife.

It is advisable to shred leaves you collect before using them as mulch, so they break down quickly. Chopping them up also speeds up the process of making leaf mold. This can be done by going over the leaves with a lawn mower or using a leaf mulcher.

Alternatively, you can get machines that collect and mulch leaves, such as this 3-in-1 leaf blower, vacuum, and mulcher at Amazon.

6. Finish planting spring bulbs

You can plant spring bulbs in late fall, but it is best to finish planting them sooner rather than later, just to make sure it is a job ticked off before the ground freezes.

While September and October are ideal for planting daffodil bulbs, snowdrops, crocus and alliums, these spring bulbs can most certainly still go in the ground in November. When it comes to planting tulips, November is actually a great time to plant them to avoid tulip fire as the temperatures are colder and less inviting for the fungus that spreads the disease.

Many new gardeners wonder how deep to plant their bulbs, and the general answer is two to three times their depth. This can be done using a trowel, but a quicker way is to use a bulb planter.

To plant bulbs in late fall, you can get bulb planters with depth markers to help (such as this bulb planter tool at Amazon) or long-handled bulb planters to reduce bending (like this long-handled bulb planter tool at Walmart).

7. Protect vulnerable plants

If you haven’t finished lifting or protecting vulnerable plants in your garden ahead of the frost, get it done ASAP.

Finish all the stages you need to take to overwinter a garden before the end of fall, so you can sit back safe in the knowledge that you are taking no unnecessary risks by subjecting your plants to temperatures they can't survive.

There are many potential ways to protect plants from frost, and those vulnerable plants include tender or tropical plants, half-hardy or borderline perennials, and any young seedlings. Bring tender plants indoors in November, overwinter pot plants indoors or in a protected space, and cover vulnerable seedlings with cloches or cold frames.

Plants can also be wrapped in horticultural fleece or burlap to protect them from the elements. Meanwhile, tender perennials such as dahlias or canna lilies can be lifted and stored, and plants in containers can be moved together for winter for extra warmth.

Before the end of fall, look around the garden to see what still needs some protection in your climate, and make a plan for how best to do it. Get every vulnerable plant protected before it is too late.

Shop essentials to protect plants from frost

There are some other late fall garden jobs you shouldn’t skip that can be done indoors on wet days. These include cleaning and disinfecting any indoor growing space, and insulating a greenhouse with bubble wrap to protect plants that may be spending winter in there.

Sticking sheets of bubble wrap to the inside of the glass is recommended when winterizing an unheated greenhouse, as the material retains heat in the structure while also allowing essential light to reach the plants.

Lilacs are very popular shrubs thanks to their beautiful, fragrant flowers that bloom in late spring. Come fall, that peak performance is behind them, so thoughts may turn to what you can do to help them put on a repeat show next year.

As lilacs are often low-maintenance shrubs, the good news is that there isn’t a lot of essential maintenance you need to do in the fall. There are a few key jobs that can make a difference, but there are also two major tasks to avoid, as they can ruin next year’s flowering display.

With that in mind, this guide looks at what to do with lilacs in the fall. It includes the jobs you should consider doing at this time of year when growing lilacs, along with revealing what you definitely should not do.

Expert tips for preparing lilacs for winter – the dos and the don'ts

Whether all of these tasks need to be on your to-do list will depend on your location, climate, and where you grow your lilacs. However, the two jobs to avoid are relevant to every gardener with a lilac in their yard.

What to do with lilacs in the fall – 4 jobs to do

1. Mulch

All spring-flowering shrubs, like lilac, will benefit from an annual mulching. Always have mulching on your fall gardening checklist.

If you are unsure, mulching is spreading organic or inorganic materials over the soil. When mulching flowering shrubs such as lilacs, opt for organic options, like compost, leaves, or wood chips, such as this premium organic wood mulch at Amazon. Organic types of mulch break down, improving the soil structure and boosting soil nutrients, all to the benefit of your lilac.

Mulching around lilacs will also retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent winter heave, where the repeated freezing and thawing of the ground exposes the plant’s roots to the winter cold.

Spread a layer 3-4 inches thick around the lilac, but avoid making the mulching mistake of piling mulch against the stems. Leave a one-inch gap between the stems and the organic matter; otherwise, there is a risk of stem rot.

2. Water

This task will only be relevant in specific circumstances, but it is worth noting for the small proportion of gardeners it applies to.

Lilacs are fairly drought-tolerant shrubs once established, but do need regular watering for the first year. Even though they can survive with limited moisture, the best display will come from healthy plants given consistent moisture. That means watering plants during periods of dry weather.

If you do have a particularly dry fall, water plants to prevent the soil from drying out. Another benefit of watering deeply as required in the fall is that moist soil is warmer than dry soil, which adds extra insulation to the roots if the temperatures suddenly drop.

3. Protect plants in pots

They may be hardy shrubs down to US hardiness zone 3, but if you grow lilacs in pots, they will not be as hardy as plants growing in the ground. The roots of pot-grown lilacs are more susceptible to frost, so it may be necessary to protect container plants from winter weather.

With many plants, this can be as simple as moving containers to a sheltered position or burying the pot in the ground. However, lilacs do need large containers in which to thrive, so you may need to protect plants from frost in situ if your pot or planter is too large to move or bury easily.

You can protect pots and planters from frost by mulching heavily over and around the pot to insulate the roots from frost and freezing winds. If you want to do this, the best types of mulch include compost, leaves, bark, or straw.

Alternatively, you can wrap the pot in frost cloth, burlap, or pre-made pot protectors, such as these winter plant pot covers available at Amazon.

4. Plant bare-root lilacs

If you want to add more lilacs to your backyard ideas, you can get bare-root lilacs to plant during dormancy from November to March.

Bare-root trees, shrubs, and hedging plants are commonly available during the colder months. The dormant plants arrive without a container or any soil around the roots. They may not look much, resembling bare twigs, but they do offer a more cost-effective way to add to your garden when compared to container-grown plants.

Plant a lilac in a sunny spot in your garden, and in fertile, well-draining soil. Getting the drainage right is key, as lilacs often sulk if they sit too wet. Adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to the planting site can help improve your soil’s drainage.

To plant bare-root trees or shrubs, soak the roots for around an hour before planting to rehydrate them. Make a hole twice the size of the root system, and place the bare-root plant in the hole so it sits at the same level it was previously planted. You can tell this by a change in color on the stem.

Fill the hole and firm the bare-root plant into its new home. Give the shrub a deep watering and a mulch to lock that moisture into the soil.

You can get a bare-root 'Tiny Dancer' lilac at Burpee that grows to just 4-5 feet to plant from November onwards.

What to do with lilacs in the fall – 2 jobs to avoid

1. Don't prune

If you still haven’t got around to it, and admittedly it is very late, then you can deadhead lilac flowers. However, any large-scale pruning this month should be avoided.

This is because lilacs bloom in spring, and it is a pruning mistake to trim in the fall. The price to pay for pruning lilacs in the fall is that you will severely impact next year’s display. As lilacs bloom on wood produced the previous year, trimming in fall removes buds to carry the next spring display.

The right time to prune lilacs is after flowering. You can prune the shrubs in the fall to renovate older, overgrown lilacs. However, you will get no blooms next year. If you do wish to control an older specimen, it is best done over the course of three years.

The only pruning you can do in the fall is to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged stems to keep the plant healthy and to remove suckers so they don’t steal energy and nutrients away from the rest of the shrub.

2. Don't feed

Lilacs are not heavy-feeding shrubs; you do need to be considerate with feeding them. In many circumstances, lilacs don’t need additional fertilizer at all if they are growing in ideal conditions. When it comes to feeding them, spring is a good time to fertilize lilacs; fall is not.

One of the biggest risks of feeding lilacs in the fall is the reaction the shrub will have. The fresh dose of essential plant nutrients will spur a flush of new growth at a time when the lilac should be preparing for its winter dormancy.

Feeding stimulates the lilac into growth, and it will produce a flush of new stems and leaves. This causes a big problem, as they have no time to harden off enough before the frosts arrive. The damage caused by frosts killing these new stems will leave the lilac as a whole more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Another reason to hold off feeding lilacs in the fall is that overfertilizing plants does more harm than good. Lilacs are known not to flower if they are overfed, especially if there is too much nitrogen in the soil.

The tender lilac buds can be susceptible to late frosts, especially after a false spring when temperatures rise temporarily before dipping down again. Such a spell of warmth can trigger the buds to start to swell, only to be killed by returning frosts.

Keep a close eye on the temperatures come spring. If you fear late frosts may kill buds and ruin your display, cover the shrubs in breathable fabric such as frost cloth, burlap, blankets, or old sheets to protect the buds overnight.

Secure the cover to the ground with weights or gardening staples like these on Amazon, and remove the material again once the temperatures warm the following day.

Frost is a gardener’s nightmare, especially if you have lots of plants in containers. But were you aware that one of the easiest ways to protect plants is to move pots together for winter?

The theory behind it is simple. Moving pots close together creates a natural microclimate that traps heat and shelters the plant’s delicate roots. Keep this gathered collection of plants in a sheltered area, and you greatly reduce the risk of losing them to frost.

If you are like me and prefer to keep things simple, this is as straightforward a way to protect plants from frost as you can find. I have lots of containers in my garden and move pots together for winter, creating clusters in protected areas. And it has worked to protect pots and planters from frost during my winters in zone 8.

Experts recommend gardeners move pots together for winter – and here’s why

Be prepared, and plan your fall gardening checklist well in advance. Keep a close eye on local weather forecasts and make a plan for which plants in your container garden need to be moved and where.

Good planning means all plants you are overwintering indoors are tucked away before the frosts arrive, and those container plants staying outdoors are protected from winter weather in time.

It should be quick and easy to move pots together for winter, so let’s look at why and where to do it. As a bonus, gardening experts give their insights to help your plants survive winter unscathed.

Why you should move pots together for winter

Plants in containers are more susceptible to frost. A plant’s overall hardiness is notably reduced in a container, as the roots are more exposed to frost. In a flower bed or border, it benefits from the heat and insulation from the ground around it.

However, when planted in a container, there is only a limited amount of soil and the thickness of the pot between the roots and the frost.

Don’t panic, though, as there are many ways to protect container plants from winter weather. There are options of wrapping them, submerging pots in the ground, and mulching them, but potentially one of the simplest ways is to move pots together for winter.

‘Grouping containers helps create a shared microclimate that traps radiant heat and shelters plants from wind exposure,’ says Brandon McCormick, a landscape design and product development director who specializes in planters.

‘When planters are clustered closely, the air between them becomes slightly warmer and more stable, reducing temperature fluctuations that stress plant roots.’

Grouping pots helps retain warmth and shield plants, and they all benefit from a natural barrier against cold weather.

For an efficient method, place the least hardy and most vulnerable plants in the middle where they can benefit the most from the insulation provided by the outer hardier pots.

Where to move pots together for winter

You move pots together for winter to protect them, so picking the right spot to keep them is vital. There would be no point grouping pots in a frost pocket or freezing corner of the yard; you want somewhere sheltered against the worst of the winter elements.

While smaller pots can be kept in an unheated greenhouse, cold frame, porch, or conservatory during winter, larger ones can benefit from the natural warmth and protection provided by buildings or structures.

‘Cluster the pots in a sheltered spot, against a garden fence or against a house wall,’ says Lydia Beaumont, a gardening expert for Gardeners' Yards. ‘This will keep them away from the wind, and they will benefit from the residual heat, especially if it’s close to your home.’

Brandon McCormick hails the natural protection you can take advantage of by placing pots against a south-facing wall, or beneath an overhang or eave. He adds: ‘These locations radiate warmth, block harsh winds, and shield pots from freezing rain.’

South-facing garden walls absorb warmth even from winter sun, and will release it slowly after the sun goes down. This microclimate can be sufficient to protect plants from frost overnight.

Extra expert tips

If you worry that moving pots together for winter may not be enough, are there any other extra measures you can take to protect your plants? Yes, there are, and the experts offered a couple of bonus pieces of advice to help your container plants survive winter.

‘For extremely cold regions, adding a layer of mulch around the base of plants or wrapping the planter in breathable fabric can offer additional root protection,’ advises Brandon. Breathable fabric options for wrapping potted plants for winter include horticultural fleece, burlap, bubble wrap or protective pot covers.

And Lydia adds: ‘Raise pots off the floor, using wood or bricks; this helps prevent the roots from sitting in soggy, cold soil all winter.’ An alternative to wood or bricks is to use pot feet, such as these rubber pot risers at Amazon.

A final option, and an alternative to wrapping individual pots, is to pack straw or fleece between the pots when you move them together, to provide added insulation for the roots.

If you have large tender or borderline hardy plants in your yard, you can wrap them up for winter with horticultural fleece or burlap to protect them from frost. You want them protected before the first frosts in your climate, so check our guide to plants to wrap up in November to make sure you’ve got all these plants covered in time.

Tender plants need winter protection in many climates. There is no denying that fact. Sometimes it can be as simple as moving them indoors, but what if the plant is too big or you don’t have space? In this scenario, you can wrap them to spend winter outdoors.

There are different ways to do this. Layers of fleece or burlap can be tied around larger plants, or cages packed with protective materials can be wrapped around stems to provide a valuable layer of insulation. If you prefer the easy life, you can always purchase ready-made winter covers to protect plants from frost.

If you haven’t protected your plants yet, the clock is ticking. This guide highlights some tender plants to wrap in November, and provides simple tips for materials to use and how to use them.

Tender plants to wrap in November

The ideal time to move specimens to overwinter plants indoors, or wrap tender plants to protect them, will depend on your US hardiness zone.

Any winter protection needs to be in place ahead of the first frost, which tends to arrive in September for zones 1-3, October for zones 4-6, and November for zones 7-9. If you live in the latter zones and haven’t finished protecting plants, the following tender plants to wrap in November are best done sooner rather than later.

1. Bananas

Growing banana trees brings a tropical look to any garden, but they are tropical plants and cannot survive frosts. Even cold-hardy banana trees, such as the popular Musa Basjoo variety, will need winter protection in US hardiness zones 5-8.

To overwinter banana trees, you can bring them indoors. Smaller varieties can be left to continue growing, or larger trees can be cut back and stored as a dormant plant. The third option when growing large banana trees is to wrap them so they can survive winter outdoors.

To do so, cut back the old foliage and create a cage around the tree trunk with chicken wire and stakes.

Pack this cage with straw, leaves, horticultural fleece, or burlap, such as this roll of burlap available at Amazon. For complete protection, a waterproof hood over the cage prevents water getting into the crown and causing rot.

Mulching around the plant is also recommended to protect the roots from freezing temperatures.

2. Tree ferns

Tree ferns are impressive specimens that can reach 15-20 feet, depending on their age and variety. They need winter protection in colder climates. While they can cope with short periods of cold, tree ferns are damaged by prolonged freezing temperatures.

Like bananas, you can winterize tree ferns by bringing them indoors for winter. However, that is not always practical with larger plants, so a better solution might be to wrap them up to protect them from frost.

Remove any damaged or brown fern fronds. Pack the crown with a bundle of straw, burlap, or horticultural fleece, as the crown is the most delicate part of the plant, and tie the remaining healthy fronds upright.

Then wrap the entire plant in a double layer of horticultural fleece, and secure all the covers to ensure they remain in place for winter. Placing bamboo poles, such as these natural bamboo stakes at Amazon, around the plant and wrapping a string around them keeps the covers in place.

3. Passion vines

Passion flowers and passion fruit make great fast-growing climbing plants with their distinctive landing pad-like blooms. They are native to South America, and tender varieties need protecting in colder climates.

In particular, fruit-bearing varieties of Passiflora, such as Passiflora mollissima, Passiflora edulis, and Passiflora ligularis, are the least hardy of the passion vines and need winter protection in US hardiness zones 8 and below.

If you grow passion flowers in pots, these plants can be brought into a sunroom, conservatory, or unheated greenhouse for winter. Plants growing in the ground outdoors should be mulched with compost or bark chips to insulate the roots, and have straw packed around their lower stems.

To retain this straw in place, putting canes around the stems and tying horticultural fleece (such as this high quality garden fleece at Walmart) or burlap in place will create a barrier and act as an extra insulating layer for winter.

4. Potato Vine

The potato vine, Solanum jasminoides, might be one of the easiest climbers for enjoying fragrant white flowers in summer, but it is only cold-hardy to US hardiness zone 9.

It can be an evergreen climber in warmer climates, or by being grown in pots and overwintered indoors, though growers in colder regions do need to wrap the tender vine ahead of the frosts.

The method for protecting the potato vine mirrors the advice for tender passion vines. A thick mulching layer of organic matter, such as compost, straw, shredded leaves, or wood chipping (like this premium shredded wood mulch at Walmart) will protect the leaves.

To complete the job, a layer of straw, burlap, or even fleece can be put over the lower stems and secured in place with canes or a basic wire frame. This is sufficient to keep the most tender parts protected from frost.

5. Cordyline

Cordylines are tropical plants hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. They can cope with small dips in temperatures, but prolonged frosts and cold winds harm their leaves.

Whether growing common cordylines, such as Cordyline australis (which is classed as an invasive plant in some states), or bright alternatives like Cordyline fruticosa (the Hawaiian ti plant), you can keep them safe in winter by wrapping them. Younger and more tender varieties definitely need protecting in colder climates.

Always wear gloves when handling cordylines to prevent cuts from the foliage. Wrap burlap or horticultural fleece around the plants and tie it in place with string. Ensure the plant is dry when you wrap it up, as excess moisture inside the covering can cause rot.

Remove the wrapping once temperatures warm in late winter to stop the plant from excessively sweating under its winter cover.

6. Olives

Olive trees may be quite hardy, but young trees or those in pots are more vulnerable. Even mature trees may need wrapping against extreme temperatures, as when temperatures drop below 14°F, any olive tree will be damaged.

Olive trees in pots can be moved indoors to a greenhouse or conservatory for winter. Plants outdoors should be given a 2-4 inch layer of mulch and wrapped in frost cloth, or horticultural fleece. Cover the plant in fleece and secure it in place with a string to prevent cold winds from whipping it off the tree.

Instead of making your own covers to protect olive trees from frosts, you can buy purpose-made zip-up covers to make them easier to put on and take off as needed. For example, these plant covers on Amazon come in various sizes and have a zip and drawstring to secure them onto your trees.

7. Melianthus

Melianthus major, also known as the honey bush, is an exotic shrub from South Africa. It always impresses with large and distinctive grey-green serrated leaves, but also emits a unique aroma of peanut butter when the leaves are rubbed or crushed.

It is hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. Growers in zone 8 or colder have a choice: treat it as an annual or wrap the plant and protect it from frosts. If you can overwinter Melianthus successfully and keep the stems undamaged by frosts, there is a chance to get a display of exotic red flower spikes in spring.

To do this, mulch thickly over the roots and wrap the entire foliage in several layers of horticultural fleece. Installing an additional windbreak around the plant can provide extra protection from cold winter winds that can nip at the foliage and stems.

FAQs

Will a plastic bag protect plants from frost?

It is not advisable to use plastic bags or garbage bags to protect plants, even for one night against a surprise frost. Plastic bags trap moisture and don’t offer insulation against frost. It can mean the trapped moisture freezes, and the bag can even freeze itself to the plant and cause lots of damage. It is always better to use breathable materials such as burlap, frost cloth, or even bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

There are many smaller tender plants you can bring indoors for winter without too much fuss. They can spend the colder months in a greenhouse, conservatory, porch, or in front of a bright window. This guide to tender plants to bring indoors in November highlights a great selection of plants to overwinter indoors, including agapanthus, pelargoniums, succulents, and bromeliads.

It's mid-November and there's one thing lingering at the back of all gardener's minds: frost. Now is the time to get those final pre-frost tasks done to ensure your yard is prepared for the winter months. With time being so precious, you may be wondering if you actually need to get rid of weeds before frost, or will the coldest temps kill them off for you.

When it comes to the fall gardening checklist, you may be surprised to hear getting rid of weeds is actually something to prioritize. A common misconception is that hard frost will kill of weeds for good. In actual fact, many perennial weeds and annual weed seeds will overwinter and return as the temperatures warm up again in spring.

That's why senior horticulturist at Miracle-Gro, Amy Enfield, urges you to get weeding done before the first hard frost comes. Delaying this task until spring could cause weeds to come back bigger than before.

Do you need to get rid of weeds before frost?

'The simple answer is yes,' says Amy. 'In fact, fall weeding is one of a gardener's best-kept secrets. What you do in the fall can dictate how much work you will have to do in the spring,' she explains.

This is true for annual and perennial weeds alike.

'A hard frost will kill off tender, summer annual weeds like crabgrass or spurge, which is helpful. However, it does not kill all weeds. It has no effect on weed seeds already laying dormant in the soil, or the roots of perennial weeds,' Amy explains.

In fact, for seeds laying dormant, frost can cause seed stratification. This is an essential period of cold exposure, kickstarting growth come spring.

'Relying on frost to 'clean up' your garden is a recipe for a weed-filled spring,' Amy warns.

Which weeds do you need to get rid of before frost?

'The most important weeds to remove in the fall are the perennial ones,' says Amy. 'Think dandelions, thistle, bindweed, and couch grass.

'While frost might make their leaves and stems look dead or wilted, their root systems are very much alive. In fall, these plants are in storage mode, drawing energy from their leaves and sending it down to their roots to store for winter,' she explains.

That's why removing them before frost is a good idea. Using a weeder tool will pull them by the root, ensuring they don't come back – like this weed pulling tool from Amazon. It will become impossible to do this once the ground freezes, making the mild temperatures of early-mid fall a great opportunity to get rid of them.

'The other weed group to worry about is winter annuals,' says Amy. 'These are weeds like chickweed, bittercress, and purple deadnettle. Unlike summer weeds, their seeds are triggered to sprout by the cooling soil and shorter days of fall.

'They germinate in fall, grow into small, low-growing plants, and then sit dormant all winter. The moment the snow melts in early spring, they flower and set thousands of new seeds before you've even had a chance to plant your cool-weather flowers and veggies,' she explains.

Fall weeding tips

With so much to get done in fall, it can feel overwhelming to try to get rid of all the weeds in your yard. Amy has a three step approach to help you out:

'First, prioritize removing any weeds – even dead ones – that have a seed head,' she says. This will prevent self-seeding from happening.

'Second, for perennial weeds, you can hand-pull them when the ground is damp from a fall rain (this makes it much easier to get the entire root),' Amy says.

There are lots of weeding tools that can help you achieve this. Including this hand weeding fork from Amazon that allows you to use more force for tough weeds.

'Finally, once an area is clear, cover it with a two to three-inch layer of mulch,' Amy advises. 'This will help prevent any weed seeds, especially winter annual weeds, from getting the light they need to sprout,' she explains.

It's a form of smothering weeds, which can also be done using cardboard and coco coir mulching mats (from Amazon).

There are also plenty of fall mulching materials readily available in the yard at this time of year, including fallen leaves.

FAQs

Can you use weed killer before frost?

Yes, you can use weed killer before frost, but it is not the most eco-friendly choice for getting rid of weeds. This is because weed killers often contain harmful chemicals that can impact the biodiversity and wildlife in your yard. Instead, try manually removing weeds to prevent them coming back. You may also find that using herbicides in the wet weather of fall is less effective anyway because it can wash away.

When you're preparing to get rid of weeds before frost, our guide to how to kill weeds in the fall can help you tackle larger jobs with ease.

Bare-root fruit starts becoming available for gardeners to plant in November. These dormant plants offer a more budget-friendly way to add fruit to your garden than buying pricier container-grown ones.

Whether you want to grow fruit trees or soft fruit bushes, both can be sourced as bare-root plants to add to your garden this month. Bare-root plants can be planted anytime from November to March, as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. They arrive without soil around the roots, and ideally, they want to be planted right away.

I have taken advantage of the cost-effectiveness of bare-root fruit over the years. I’ve bought and planted bare-root fruit trees and bushes in gardens I worked in, or in my growing plot at home. They always offer great value and are easy to deal with, so I want to take this opportunity to highlight some of my best fruits to plant in November.

7 fruits to plant in November

Late fall and early winter can be a potentially busy time when growing fruit. We have mentioned already that it is a perfect time for planting, but the window to prune apples, pears, quince, medlars, grapes, and currants also opens. There is no rush, though, as you have until late winter to do your fruit tree pruning, but the above are all jobs to consider adding to your fall gardening checklist.

1. Blueberries

• Hardiness - Zones 4-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny and sheltered
• Fruits - Midsummer to early fall

Blueberries are stunning plants that produce tasty berries packed with vitamins and antioxidants. They are native plants to the US, with varieties of blueberries suited to different climates from US hardiness zone 4 to 9.

The two main types are the northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum), suited for colder climates and by far the most common type of blueberries for home growers, and the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), more commonly seen in the wild or on farms. Some blueberry varieties are self-fertile, but all will do better with a partner plant.

The best time to plant blueberries is in the fall or early spring. You can get container-grown and bare-root blueberries in the fall to plant in a sunny and sheltered area of the yard. They prefer moist soil types and a more acidic soil pH.

To create a perfect environment for growing blueberries, test your soil beforehand. You can incorporate some ericaceous compost into beds or grow blueberries in pots filled with a compost for acid-loving plants.

You can get bare-root highbush blueberry plants at Amazon to plant this month.

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2. Gooseberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Mid-to-late-summer

Gooseberries are renowned for their heavy crops of tangy fruits for use in sweet and savory dishes. The fruits tend to be green or red, with the edible berries typically classified as culinary, dessert or dual-purpose.

The good news is that gooseberries are self-fertile, so you can get a harvest with just one bush, though any yield will improve with multiple plants.

You can grow gooseberries as standard bushes, or they can be trained to grow against walls for harvests in smaller spaces. Plant them in fall or spring in a sunny, sheltered spot, though gooseberries can grow in shade.

They like moist, well-draining soil, and bushes should be at least 6-8 feet apart. It would be a gooseberry growing mistake to crowd plants together, as they won’t yield well and will be at increased risk of fungal diseases due to a lack of air circulation.

Keep gooseberries well-watered, regularly fed, and pruned annually once established to give the bush a strong shape. You prune gooseberries in late winter to early spring, and the bush benefits from a good mix of the most productive wood for the best yield.

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3. Aronia berries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Late summer to fall

Aronia berries, also known as chokeberries, are cold-hardy fruit bushes ideal for gardeners in northern climates, as you can get a crop down to US hardiness zone 3.

The bushes are covered in strong, tart berries rich in vitamins and antioxidants. These are best enjoyed cooked, though, as freshly-picked fruits will not be to everyone’s taste.

Grow aronia berries in a spot where they can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day, and in slightly acidic, well-drained soil. For comparison, aronia berries do like the same conditions as blueberries, making the two a good partner crop in any productive fruit garden.

The bushes are best planted in fall or spring, and the addition of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, before planting will improve the structure, water retention, and boost soil nutrients, to get newly planted aronia berries off to a great start in their new home.

4. Currants

• Hardiness - Zone 3 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun or partial shade
• Fruits - Summer

Currant bushes are reliable, high-cropping soft fruits for any garden. The fruits are high in vitamins and antioxidants, and the bushes can be cold-hardy down to zone 3.

Whether you choose blackcurrants, redcurrants, whitecurrants, or pinkcurrants (the latter of which makes a more unusual fruit to grow), you’ll be able to enjoy masses of fruits year after year for jams, syrups, jellies, snacking, or to add to desserts.

Plant container-grown or bare-root currant bushes in the fall. The best spot is full sun; the plants can grow in part shade, but the fruits will be sweeter and riper if they get the most sun. However, in the warmest US hardiness zones, try to give them some shade from the scorching afternoon rays.

Currants can be grown as free-standing bushes or trained to grow as fans or cordons, so you can get great fruit harvests in smaller spaces. Protecting the soft fruit with netting once the berries are forming will prevent birds from stealing all your precious fruit.

For a beautiful and tasty addition, this bare-root Red Rovada currant bush at Burpee provides late-season harvests of juicy red fruits.

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5. Rhubarb

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun
• Fruits - Spring to early summer

Rhubarb blurs the lines a bit; it is botanically a vegetable, but used as a fruit in pies, desserts, and crumbles. As it pairs so well with other fruits in this list in baking, it seems worthy of inclusion here, especially as fall is an ideal time to plant rhubarb.

The simplest and most cost-effective way to start growing rhubarb in the fall is by planting dormant crowns. You can also divide rhubarb crowns in the fall for new plants, provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

It can be confusing with dormant crowns, as they resemble an old clump of solid root, and are far from what a traditional plant looks like. But don’t make the rhubarb mistake of planting the section upside down. Look for buds or signs of old growth to identify the top, and plant it with these bits just slightly above the soil line.

You will need a bit of patience when you plant rhubarb in the fall. Don’t harvest any rhubarb in the first year; instead, allow the plant to focus on developing a strong set of roots. That patience pays off, as a rhubarb crown can live for a decade or more.

I have grown 'Victoria' rhubarb in many gardens, as it is a delicious and reliable variety. You can get a pack of two dormant bare-root 'Victoria' rhubarb crowns from Burpee to add to your yard.

6. Raspberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Summer or fall (depending on variety)

Bare-root raspberries are commonly available to plant from late fall to early spring. You can plant raspberries at any time when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged in a sunny spot in your garden.

Raspberries thrive in sunny and sheltered spots and fertile soil enriched with lots of organic matter. You can grow raspberries in pots, but they will have a shorter lifespan than canes planted in the ground.

You will see different types of raspberries to grow when shopping for bare-root plants. The main distinction between the two is summer-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries. They differ by when they crop (as the titles suggest) and also how you should train and prune raspberries each year.

An easy way to reward yourself with the biggest, tastiest, and longest harvest of fruits from your raspberry plants is to plant a mixture of the types.

I also advise alternatives to traditional red raspberries, such as planting yellow or black fruits, such as this Fall Gold bare-root plant from Burpee, which produces pale yellow fruits.

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7. Top Fruit

There are many fruit trees you can plant this month. It is an ideal time to add bare-root fruit to your garden for years of wonderful harvests. The likes of apple trees, pear trees, plum trees, cherry trees, and more can all be planted during dormancy, starting in late fall.

All fruit trees will benefit from compost or well-rotted manure added to the planting site ahead of time. However, do not fertilize fruit trees with additional feed in the planting hole.

You want newly-planted trees to put out strong roots in search of water and nutrients, while adding product into the hole actually encourages the roots to remain there rather than spread, which risks the long-term stability of the tree.

After planting new fruit trees, it is advisable to stake them and mulch around the base to retain moisture and smother weeds. If you fear rabbits or other pests may nibble them, you can protect the bark with tree protectors, such as these at Amazon.

Now that you’ve identified some fruits to plant in November, here’s a quick planting tip to help your new plants establish faster in their new environment. When you plant fruit trees or bushes, add some mycorrhizal fungi around the roots.

Using granular mycorrhizal fungi like this at Amazon when planting helps fruit trees or shrubs establish, as they can absorb additional water and essential plant nutrients through forming a symbiotic relationship with the fungi. This one-off application, when planting, is all that is required throughout the plant’s lifetime.

When temperatures drop for winter, many a gardener’s eyes will start scouting their plants to ensure every last one is sufficiently protected against frosts. I have seen a so-called gardening ‘hack’ of using festive lights to help plants, but can it truly be an effective way? Do Christmas lights keep plants warm enough for them to survive the winter outdoors?

To find out, I take a deep dive into this potential method to discover if it is a potentially untapped way to protect plants from frost and create a beautiful festive atmosphere, or if it is just a social media trend best described as all style and no substance.

I spoke to gardening professionals and electrical experts to highlight the theory behind using festive lights to warm plants and whether it is a proven, safe method or one fraught with dangers. Do Christmas lights keep plants warm outdoors over winter? Let's find out.

Do Christmas lights keep plants warm? The theory behind it

When you live in climates with frosts, all thoughts must turn to protecting tender and borderline plants to prevent them from succumbing to winter colds. Frosts can do terrible damage to plants, and failure to act can see you lose much-loved plants.

You can overwinter plants indoors, wrap potted plants for winter, and use materials such as horticultural fleece or burlap to insulate plants in flower beds or container gardens. The possibility of using Christmas lights to keep plants warm offers an intriguing solution, one that is not only practical but attractive.

‘Holiday lights can help bring the season to life, and, in some cases, provide just enough warmth to help plants through a chilly night,' claims Donna Letier, CEO of Gardenuity. ‘Traditional incandescent string lights emit a gentle heat that can raise the air temperature a few degrees, sometimes enough to take the edge off a light frost.’

As touched upon by Donna, the type of light is critical, as not all Christmas lights keep plants warm. Modern LED lights don’t give off any warmth; you need to use old-school incandescent lights.

Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer and consultant, says of old incandescent bulbs: ‘They only give off a little heat, but that can be enough to stave off the cold for more tender plants, though only in very specific circumstances.’

‘The issue is that almost all Christmas lights are LED lights now,’ adds Lindsey Chastain, experienced homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck. ‘Those don't produce much, if any, heat at all. So they look pretty, but do nothing at all for your plants as far as warmth.’

For suitable Christmas lights to keep plants warm, they must be loosely wrapped around plants. As Donna Letier adds, ‘Plants need to breathe, and close contact with bulbs can cause leaf burn. Think of it as giving your plants a warm scarf, not a tight hug.’

You may also want to add an extra layer of materials to trap the heat created by the bulbs. Gardeners using this method often add frost blankets or burlap over the plants. But when you do, it is important to prevent the material from touching the bulbs.

Any heat emitted by old-school incandescent lights may be capable of raising the temperature a few degrees. However, it is only ever enough to provide short-term relief from frosts, rather than being relied on to protect tender plants throughout a long winter.

It may be suitable for chilly nights in warmer climates, rather than a solution for US hardiness zones with prolonged freezing temperatures. But there are also risks involved, which we’ll discuss below.

Do experts recommend it as a winter solution?

‘I do not recommend relying on holiday lights as a strategy for overwintering plants, says Andrew Hagerty, the director of horticulture for Waterfront Botanical Gardens. ‘While incandescent lights do generate some heat, their primary function is illumination, and a significant number would be required to transfer sufficient warmth to a plant to withstand cold temperatures.’

You may need lots of light to raise the temperatures, and there is no guarantee of consistent warmth. Parts of the plants closest to the bulbs may be warmed, even enough to stress or burn them, while other parts may benefit very little. Large amounts of warmth can be lost to the night air, especially if there are no extra covers.

Anna Ohler, the owner of Bright Lane Gardens, also casts doubt on the feasibility of successfully using this method in her Michigan winters, saying: ‘Using decorative lights poses an unnecessary fire risk and additional cost to your utility bills, especially if you use low-quality lights.’

The potential fire risk is something that will likely put off many gardeners. It may be difficult to find incandescent bulbs nowadays, as most festive lights are modern energy-efficient LEDs, and these older bulbs increase both the cost of warming plants and the associated risks.

‘I would not recommend using lights for warmth because the safety risks often outweigh the benefits,’ says Daniel Vasilevski, the owner of Pro Electrical. ‘Old-style incandescent bulbs, such as the larger C7 or C9 bulbs, are inefficient and create heat, which is what one wants. The downside to these hot bulbs is that they cause a very real danger when mixed with water, frost, and plants.’

‘I see gardeners suggesting people wrap the plants with burlap or frost cloth over the lights,’ adds Daniel. ‘To put a flammable substance like a cloth on top of hot incandescent lamps is a serious fire risk.’

If cost and potential fire risks don’t put you off, what about attracting more pests? Ed Dolshun from Catchmaster warns that warming plants in this way may actually invite pests.

‘The gentle heat from the lights could be just the shelter that insects are looking for in cold weather,’ he claims. ‘Normally, we see these guys move indoors looking for warmth, but this could just be the next best thing. You might see spiders, and fungus gnats take advantage of the microclimate and use the plant's base or even the soil as a nesting site.’

Kit to help you overwinter plants successfully

Overwintering and protecting plants takes time, and sometimes it is not always necessary. A case in point is dahlias.

Dahlias are popular tender plants that many gardeners lift to overwinter indoors. They are not plants that can tolerate frosts, so gardeners around the globe routinely lift the tubers and overwinter dahlias indoors. But it is not always required, and whether you need to do this annual task when growing dahlias depends on your climate.

As a rough guide, if you are in zones 2-7, they definitely need lifting, while if you garden in zones 8 and higher, you can leave dahlias in the soil. Those in zone 7 can risk leaving theirs in the ground over winter with a thick layer of mulch, provided they have well-drained soil.

If you don’t need to lift yours, it can save you time and effort during what is a busy time of the gardening calendar.

Meet our experts

Roses may seem far from their summer splendour in November, though in warm falls, there may be a flower or two stubbornly remaining. If you want to guarantee another bumper display of those glorious blooms next summer and keep your precious roses healthy, there are some key tasks to do this month.

If you want to expand your display of flowers, it is an ideal time to plant roses. For established roses, November is perfect for mulching plants, protecting container-grown roses, and performing essential maintenance to guard against wind rock and black spot.

After pruning, watering, feeding, and deadheading all summer, you may think the hard work of growing and caring for roses is over for the year. However, there are a few jobs still to do, and the results are worth the effort. To keep your roses in tip-top shape, we highlight some important November rose care jobs that make a big difference come next year.

What to do with roses in November

A little work goes a long way. These November rose care jobs are simple to do, and won’t take up many hours of your day. Remember to add the following to your fall gardening checklist to ensure you have beautiful, healthy rose blooms to enjoy come summer.

1. Plant bare-root roses

Fall is an excellent time for planting roses, whether bare-root or container-grown plants. Bare-root roses are commonly available during dormancy from November to March and offer a convenient, more budget-friendly way to expand your collection of rose garden plants.

Provided the ground is not frozen, plant bare-root roses as soon as possible after receiving them. If the ground is unsuitable, you can keep plants in their packaging in a cool, dry place for a couple of weeks. Otherwise, you may need to heel-in plants until the time is right for planting.

It is beneficial to incorporate lots of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the site before planting. This will help improve the structure and boost soil nutrients, helping the new rose to establish strong roots.

Soak the roots for at least two hours before planting bare-root roses to rehydrate them. You then want to position the rose in the planting hole so the graft union at the base of the stem is an inch below soil level. Refill the hole around the rose, firm the soil down, and give the plant a good watering.

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2. Mulch your plants

Mulching should form an integral part of winterizing roses. If you haven’t done it yet, add it to your to-do list for November.

Adding a layer of organic mulch two to three inches thick will insulate the roots and protect them from winter frosts. It also retains moisture in the soil, adds nutrients as it breaks down, and suppresses weeds.

The best mulch for roses includes garden compost, leaf mold, and bark chippings, such as this organic premium mulch at Amazon.

Mulch around the base of the plant in a circle as wide as the plant’s branches, but don’t pile it against the stems. Keep the mulch at least an inch from the stems to avoid rot.

3. Prune to prevent wind rock

Knowing when to prune roses is important. November is not a time to fully prune shrub roses, which should be done in late winter or early spring. However, it is a time to shorten stems to prevent wind rock if you have tall roses or a garden in a windy location.

Wind rock can damage roots as plants rock back and forth and, in extreme cases, cause roses to be blown over and ripped from the ground due to strong gusts.

As for how to prune roses so they don’t succumb to wind rock, it is as simple as cutting back tall stems by around a third. You don’t need to be too bothered about neatness, just cut to an outward-facing bud. You’ll return to the shrubs in late winter to do more detailed pruning.

What is important is ensuring your pruning tools are clean and sharp, so you make proper cuts and prevent spreading diseases. A simple pocket-sized sharpening tool like this on Amazon can be used to sharpen pruning shears while working in the yard.

4. Remove fallen leaves to prevent black spot

Rose black spot is a troublesome disease. You can use fungicides to treat the rose disease, but if your rose has had black spot for one year, it increases the chance of it getting infected next year. However, there are measures you can take in the fall to reduce those chances.

You should collect any foliage that has fallen from the bushes and dispose of it. Infected leaves left on the ground will harbour the fungal spores. These can overwinter in the soil and then infect the plant again next year, usually by being splashed up onto the leaves during rain or watering.

Collect and bag up any foliage showing signs of disease, including powdery mildew and rust, as well as black spot, and bin them. If diseased foliage remains on the plant, prune it off and then sanitize your pruning shears. Never use these leaves to make compost, as you can spread the disease around the garden.

Mulching is also helpful in preventing black spot. It buries the spores deeper in the ground, reducing the chance of them splashing up and re-infecting your roses.

5. Moves roses in pots to a protected spot

Shrub roses are hardy plants, but they are more vulnerable when grown in containers. The roots of container plants are more susceptible to frost, as there is only a thin layer of compost and pot between their roots and the cold.

If you grow roses in pots, move them to a more sheltered spot to protect them from the worst of the winter colds. Protecting pots in winter can be as simple as putting them next to a wall, moving pots close together for added insulation, or putting them into an unheated greenhouse.

However, if your roses are in large planters and are not easy to move, there are simple ways to protect plants from frost. The pots can be given extra insulation by wrapping them in burlap, bubble wrap, or protective winter covers, such as these frost protection bags at Amazon.

FAQs

Do I need to water roses in November?

It is unlikely you’ll need to water roses in late fall or early winter, unless the season is unusually mild or dry. You want to avoid overwatering outdoor plants, especially during colder weather, as it increases the risk of root rot.

Can I fertilize roses in November?

You should not fertilize roses this month. Doing so risks the development of fresh, new growth that will be damaged by winter frosts, leaving the rose susceptible to pests and diseases. Wait until early spring to give your roses their first feed of the new season.

Can roses bloom in November?

Some rose varieties, such as repeat-flowering cultivars, may still bloom in November in milder climates. If you are experiencing an unusually warm fall for your region, it may cause your roses to bloom for longer into the season.

Now you’ve got November rose care covered, it's time to add some more monthly jobs to your checklist. Luckily, we’ve got you covered. This guide to plants to prune in November reveals shrubs, fruits, and perennials that may need some TLC. And this piece on plants to propagate in November highlights some great opportunities to expand your collection by taking plant cuttings this month.

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I don't know about you but I feel like there's a never-ending list of things to get done this month before winter truly arrives and frost takes over my yard. In the midst of mulching and pruning, I realized there's one area of my yard I've neglected to give any attention: the shed.

While giving your shed a tidy up may be low down on your fall gardening checklist, it's actually quite important to give it some TLC before you retreat indoors for winter. Pest control experts say that messy, unorganized, debris-filled sheds are the perfect spot for overwintering pests to hide. When spring comes around, they may just make their way into your yard and cause mayhem among your planting. Plus, they could cause damage within your shed in the meantime.

Luckily, it's super easy to fix this issue. Here, pest control experts share which type of winter garden pests may use this space in your yard and five quick steps to stop pests overwintering in your shed.

Which pests overwinter in garden sheds?

There are quite a few pests that can be found lurking in garden sheds in winter, according to pest control experts.

'Throughout winter, pests will ultimately search for warmth, shelter, food, and water. Your garden shed provides all of these things in one relatively safe space,' says Daniel Baldwin, entomologist at Hawx Pest Control.

'Boxelder bugs, for example, are likely to search for warm locations, squeezing through tiny cracks and gaps in doorways or windows. These areas offer protection, allowing them to overwinter indoors until spring arrives.

'Rodents, such as rats and mice, may also be tempted into your garden sheds during winter due to the cold temperatures and food sources becoming harder to find outdoors,' Daniel notes.

Other pests that destroy plants and small mammals that may cause damage to your shed contents may also find a hiding spot here, as unorganized sheds with piles of debris, dirty tools, and open food sources (like bird seed) provide the perfect spot for some shelter during winter.

Not spotting them can risk bigger issues, like nests and infestations, which is why taking preventative measures now is well worth it.

Luckily, there are a few things that can be done to stop pests overwintering in your shed:

5 ways to stop pests overwintering in your shed

No matter what shed idea you have in your yard, it's important to give it some attention before the depths of winter arrive. Messy spaces are more susceptible to attracting pests. That's why pest control experts recommend following these five steps to get your shed in order ahead of the coldest season:

1. Seal all entry points

The first thing to do when trying to stop pests overwintering in your shed is make it impossible for them to get in.

'Inspect all exterior walls, foundations, and vents to ensure they are sealed and in good condition,' Daniel advises.

'Remember, mice can fit through a hole that is less than 1/16 inch in diameter, so be sure to fill any cracks or holes you find with caulk (from Amazon) or foam,' he adds.

Make sure any windows are shut and consider putting in place draft excluders (from Amazon) if your shed door has a gap beneath it.

As a bonus, this will also help weatherproof your shed for the harshest weather conditions and keep your contents inside safe and secure.

2. Remove food sources

If your garden shed doesn't provide what pests are looking for, they're less likely to take up residence in it. This includes removing food sources.

'Many people store things like bird seed or pet food in sheds, so many pests have all the food they need to survive,' says Jeff Schumacher, owner at All-Safe Pest & Termite. 'You can easily cut off their food supply by sealing containers,' he adds.

These bird seed storage containers from Amazon are a good choice, for example.

Bulb and seed storage is also important, like this seed tin from Amazon. Make sure to keep your potting shed organized with these containers neatly put on shelves to ensure they don't fall over and accidentally open.

3. Get your tools in order

It's important to clean your gardening tools and store garden tools properly over winter. Leaving them dirty and lying around is more likely to entice pests in.

You can use warm water and cleaning vinegar (from Amazon) to get your tools in prime condition, before hanging them up with a wall tool organizer (from Amazon) or placing them in a storage box.

The same goes for bags of potting mix and compost. Leaving them open provides a toasty spot for destructive critters to crawl into. When you later spread it in your yard, you may be delivering pests directly to your plants.

'Keep tools, bags of soil, and other items organized on shelves or in lidded plastic totes to ensure pests aren’t able to use them to hide,' Daniel says.

These jumbo sealable storage bags from Amazon may be useful in securing soil bags, for example.

4. Clear out debris

Just like fallen leaf piles and deadwood in the yard, any garden waste and debris sitting in your shed will attract pests. It provides shelter and hiding spots for them, away from the cold temperatures outdoors.

'Pests often thrive in messy spaces, so it’s really important to keep your shed clean and clutter free,' says Daniel. 'Sweep the floor to remove debris, and avoid storing items in piles on the ground,' he says.

Shed storage can be really handy for this, like these resin boxes from Amazon.

'You also shouldn’t stack things right up against walls, and make sure water drains away from the shed so it doesn’t stay soggy,' says Jeff. 'Less moisture and clutter make the shed far less inviting to insects,' he notes.

5. Use organic pest repellents

As well as getting your shed in ship-shape for winter, you can be extra cautious by using natural pest control methods to repel pests from your shed.

'The scent of peppermint is strong and is often disliked by certain pests, which can deter them from living in areas where it’s present,' says Daniel.

'Homeowners can dilute a few drops of peppermint oil (from Amazon) with water in a spray bottle and apply to the areas where you have seen pests, such as behind shelves, in corners, and near entry points or cracks within walls,' he advises.

You can also purchase peppermint pest spray (from Amazon) and use spices to deter common garden pests, like chili powder.

FAQs

What should I do if I find mice in my shed?

If you have only spotted one or two mice, you can take measures to make your shed less attractive to them. This includes removing food sources and tidying up tools and debris to remove shelter. You should also seal any entry points. If you have a a larger rodent presence in your shed, it's advised to seek professional pest control help.

While preparing your yard to stop pests overwintering in your shed, why not also take the opportunity to declutter your shed? Your future self will thank you for getting it in shape now, ready for a busy spring gardening season.

Get your shed organized with these accessories:

Frost is impending, so it's a crucial time to prepare your yard to get through the winter season unscathed. Frost covers are a great way to do this, acting as a blanket to insulate plants and protect plant roots from freezing. These come in all forms and are made from all materials, including plastic.

While it is possible to protect plants from frost with plastic, it isn't necessarily the most sustainable garden idea. There are plastic frost cover alternatives that will last much longer, offer more breathability, and ensure microplastics don't leach into your soil.

Here, I explore why plastic isn't the best material to use for frost protection, plus the very best plastic frost cover alternatives to shop instead.

Can you cover plants with plastic to protect plants from frost?

Just like using bed sheets to protect plants from frost, plastic can work effectively to create a protective frost barrier.

In fact, you can purchase plastic frost covers (like this from Amazon), which are designed to trap warmth and keep frost out.

However, this isn't necessarily the best thing to use to cover plants. This is because plastic isn't breathable, fostering an environment for moisture to build-up. This can lead to fungal issues and mold, harming the health of your plants.

Plus, plastic frost covers aren't a great option if you're looking to make non-toxic gardening swaps in your yard. Microplastics can leach into your soil, impacting soil health and structure, water retention, and plant health.

Instead, breathable, non-toxic materials offer a more balanced environment for plants while still effectively protecting plants from frost. Plus, they're durable and are made to last for years to come.

6 plastic frost cover alternatives

To help you make greener choices while overwintering your garden, I've pulled together six of the best plastic frost cover alternatives to shop now:

FAQs

Can I use plastic as a weed barrier in the yard?

While it is possible to use plastic sheets as a weed barrier, it isn't always the recommended option. This is because microplastics can leach into soil, and it isn't necessarily the most durable material to use. Instead, opt for eco alternatives. This includes organic materials like bark chip and mulch, or natural fabrics like burlap.

Opting for plastic frost cover alternatives will reward you not only with winter protection, but also long-lasting materials that can be reused each year.

If you're keen to make more eco-conscious choices in the garden, read our guide to zero waste gardening and using kitchen waste in the garden.

The striking blooms of a bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia spp) make an impact whether cultivated indoors or outdoors. Native to South Africa, their flowers resemble tropical birds, coming in shades of white or orange, depending on the species.

As a warmth-loving plant, they do require winter protection unless you are in a tropical climate. Gardeners experiencing frosts should take steps to overwinter their bird of paradise plants to ensure they survive the winter unscathed. This can involve providing extra protection outdoors or bringing the plant indoors during colder months.

To help you find the best way to grow bird of paradise plants through the colder months in your climate, I consulted a tropical plant expert. This guide covers how to overwinter bird of paradise plants indoors and outdoors, so you can enjoy their spectacular blooms year after year.

An expert guide to overwintering bird of paradise plants

A bird of paradise makes a great houseplant to grow outdoors in borders or containers for the summer.

The flowers look like birds and make a great focal or talking point, especially around a patio or pool. You must remember that they are tropical plants, though, that will need some protection for winter in all but the warmest climates.

How to overwinter bird of paradise indoors

If you live in colder climates of US hardiness zone 9 or below, overwintering plants indoors is the preferred choice. This is because a bird of paradise plant will not survive frosts.

If you live in zone 9 and have a few frosts, it may be able to survive outdoors with protection, but it is up to you if you want to take the risk. It is not so up for debate in zones 8 and below, where there are prolonged freezes, and you definitely need to bring plants inside.

The best time to move plants is before nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 55°F in late fall. Cooler temperatures slow the plant's growth and stress it. Leaving it too late can be damaging, as a bird of paradise plant suffers leaf damage and root stress when the temperatures dip below 50°F.

A little TLC before moving plants indoors works wonders. The first step is to inspect them for small pests. The likes of mealybugs, scale, and spider mites can all hide in plain sight and go on to infest other indoor plants in winter.

A ready-to-use insecticidal soap, like this one at Amazon, can be sprayed on plants to get rid of aphids and other small pest issues. Next, if your bird of paradise shows signs of damaged or ageing leaves, snip them off before placing the plant in its new winter home.

The plant is now in perfect condition to come indoors for winter. An ideal location for the overwintering of bird of paradise plants is warm and bright, the type of conditions you get in a conservatory or sunroom.

Tatiana Anderson, a tropical plant expert from Top Tropicals, also highlights south- or west-facing windows as perfect.

'Strelitzia is light-hungry even during dormancy,' says Tatiana. 'Low light leads to leaf yellowing, weak petioles, and slowed recovery in spring. If natural light is limited, supplement with a full-spectrum grow light set 12-18 inches above the foliage for 12-14 hours daily.'

The tropical plant expert also advises to 'maintain room temperatures between 65-75°F' to ensure healthy development through winter.

Overwatering is a common mistake gardeners make when overwintering tender plants indoors, and falling foul of this watering mistake risks the potential future of your bird of paradise plants. Along with providing the right light levels, watering is a key aspect to get right when you overwinter birds of paradise indoors.

'Indoors, the bird of paradise grows slowly in lower light, and excess moisture can cause root rot,' warns Tatiana. 'Let the top 1-2 inches of soil dry before watering again.'

She adds: 'If the air indoors is very dry, increase humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier rather than overwatering.'

So, remember to reduce how often you water plants. Plus, there is no need to fertilize plants during the winter. Wait until the plant starts growing again in spring to commence any feeding regime.

How to overwinter bird of paradise outdoors

The opportunity to overwinter bird of paradise outdoors remains exclusive to those gardeners in warmer zones, primarily US hardiness zone 10+.

As mentioned above, those in zone 9 may be able to overwinter plants, too. This is unless they suffer particularly extended periods of frost or have heavier soil types that sit very wet over winter.

Gardeners in borderline areas will need to protect plants from potential frosts and cold snaps. As the foliage is most susceptible to cold weather, cut the stems down to around 12 inches above the ground before the frosts with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.

Mulch over the clump with a good few inches of straw, chopped leaves, or bark chippings. Then cover the area with a breathable row cover (such as this floating row cover, available at Amazon) and peg it down to provide an extra layer of insulation and prevent the mulch from getting blown away in strong winds.

If you haven't protected plants, and there is a surprise cold snap forecast, don't panic, as Tatiana offers the following words of advice.

'When frost threatens, water the soil thoroughly a day before - moist soil retains heat better than dry,' recommends the tropical plant expert. 'Cover the plant overnight with frost cloth or breathable fabric, not plastic, to trap ground warmth. For large clumps, wrap the base with mulch or straw to protect rhizomes.'

Once the frosts pass and the temperatures rise again in spring, remove the covering of mulch to allow the bird of paradise to grow again unimpeded.

FAQs

Can strelitzia survive frost?

Bird of paradise plants are tropical plants that are damaged by freezing temperatures. They can withstand cold for short periods, but not prolonged bouts of cold weather.

If you do worry about losing plants to frost, you can propagate bird of paradise plants to bulk out your collection and mitigate any potential losses. The easiest method is to divide plants once they are at least three years old and repot the new plant into a pot filled with soil for container gardening, such as this premium organic potting mix at Burpee.

A less reliable method to try is to take root cuttings in the spring. The ultimate challenge is to collect seeds and grow new plants, but this can take up to 10 years to get mature and flowering bird of paradise plants.

There is no disguising the fact that coleus are astounding plants for adding bright foliage and interest in often trickier, shadier spots in the garden. With leaves in vivid shades of yellow, green, red, and purple, they are sure-fire dramatic plants.

However, many gardeners are unfortunately wasteful when growing coleus. As frost-sensitive tropical plants, they are often treated as annuals and disposed of once killed by cold winter temperatures. It needn't be this way, though, as there are ways of overwintering coleus so they can be enjoyed year after year.

If you live in US hardiness zones 10+, you can enjoy coleus as a perennial plant. It is a different case for growers in cooler climates, but it is not tricky to overwinter coleus plants. They can be moved inside and grown as indoor plants for winter, or you can overwinter cuttings to go on and give a dazzling display next year. Here we reveal the best reasons to overwinter coleus and how easy it can be done.

An expert guide to overwintering coleus – which way works for you?

Yes, there is nothing wrong with treating coleus as an annual plant, enjoying the foliage and then letting it succumb to frost. But there are simple ways of overwintering coleus that save you from spending money on new plants. It is a great tactic if you have discovered a variety of underrated bedding plants that you adore, or grow a unique variety not commonly available to buy from garden centers, nurseries, or online. Let's look at the two popular methods of overwintering coleus, so you can choose the one that suits you best.

1. Overwintering coleus as a houseplant

The first option is overwintering coleus as houseplants, allowing you to enjoy their stunning foliage year-round. You may not immediately think of coleus as an indoor plant, but they do have a history of being grown as a houseplant.

On this subject, Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp, garden writer, coach, and speaker known as the Hoosier Gardener, claims: 'Coleus used to be a houseplant and is still considered a houseplant. It's a houseplant that escaped to our summer gardens years ago.'

Proper timing is important when overwintering coleus indoors. Coleus start suffering once temperatures drop below 50°F, so keep a close eye on your forecasts to move plants indoors once night-time temperatures look set to go below that mark.

It is advisable to acclimatize plants to their new indoor life. This can be achieved similarly to hardening off plants in spring, only in reverse, by moving plants from outdoors to a milder spot for a week before their final warm, protected location for winter.

Plants in containers are easy to move, but coleus in flower beds or mixed planters will need to be dug up and potted. Give all plants a good once-over to check for pests and diseases. If there are small pests such as aphids and spider mites, spray plants with insecticidal soap (such as this organic insect soap at Burpee) or a homemade bug spray of liquid soap and water to eliminate them.

A perfect location for overwintering coleus plants is warm, bright, and away from cold drafts. Lydia Beaumont, gardening expert at Gardeners' Yards, says: 'I find a sunny windowsill works best to keep them thriving. If light is an issue, then you can always use a grow light.'

As for caring for coleus indoors, Lydia adds: 'As it's winter, you don't need to water them too much, just enough to keep the soil slightly moist. In winter, most plants' growth slows down, so don't worry too much.'

Keep a close eye on watering plants in containers, and only water when the top two inches of soil feel moist. You can judge when to water plants by using your fingers or getting a soil moisture meter, such as this soil moisture meter at Amazon, which gives immediate results. There will be no need to fertilize plants indoors during the winter.

Lydia also advises cutting back coleus during winter, saying: 'Make sure that leggy stems are kept trimmed, so that the coleus stays compact and healthy. Come springtime, your coleus will be ready to return outdoors happy and healthy.'

2. Overwintering coleus by taking cuttings

The alternative way of overwintering coleus is to take plant cuttings and care for sections of plants over the colder months. It is ideal if you are short of space but still want to overwinter your favorites varieties to enjoy again next year.

As Jessica Mercer from Plant Addicts says: 'Coleus plants grow readily from cuttings, giving us an easy way to keep these lovely plants growing in our gardens from year to year.'

'It is very easy to overwinter coleus by taking a cutting and rooting it in water for a few weeks until it develops roots and then planting it in soil,' adds Kathy Jentz, editor and publisher of the award-winning Washington Gardener Magazine. 'Then treat it like any other houseplant until taking it back outside next spring after any danger of frost has passed.'

There is time to take stem cuttings from coleus in the fall and root them indoors. To propagate coleus at this time of year, take multiple 4-6-inch stem cuttings and remove all but the top set of leaves. Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone (such as this rooting hormone powder, available at Amazon) and place them in a container filled with water.

Once the cutting develops roots, which usually takes 7-10 days, pot it into an individual container filled with a potting soil for container gardening - pick a potting mix like this organic potting soil at Burpee. But don't wait too long, as Kathy Jentz warns: 'If you leave it in water too long, the water roots develop, and then it is not suitable for growing in soil, usually becoming stretched out or sickly-looking.'

Place the container on a windowsill where it can get bright, but indirect sunlight, and pinch back the shoots as they develop to encourage more branching. The new coleus can be planted outdoors in spring after the last frost.

FAQs

Can you overwinter coleus in the house?

Yes, you can overwinter coleus in a house. To keep the plant thriving overwinter inside the home, place it in a sunny spot where the coleus can bask in bright, indirect light. Coleus do need light over winter, otherwise the vibrant foliage fades, but it won't like lots of direct sunlight.

Coleus wants temperatures of 60-75°F, and to be kept away from heat sources like radiators and heating ducts, as well as fluctuating temperatures from cold drafts or ventilation systems.

The plants will benefit from misting or placing them on a pebble tray for plants to increase humidity, as indoor air in winter can be quite dry for plants. Increasing humidity for indoor plants helps keep ones from warmer climates happier when growing in the house.

Can coleus survive winter in a garage?

Coleus can potentially survive winter in a garage provided the temperature stays above 50°F and it gets enough sunlight. If there is a lack of sufficient natural sunlight, ideally at least six hours a day, you may need to use grow lights to provide enough light for the coleus to survive happily through winter.

When overwintering plants indoors, there are several common mistakes to avoid making that can risk the health of your plants.

Two classic winter houseplant care mistakes are overwatering, which can lead to root rot, and continuing to feed plants like you did during summer.

Those growing over winter only require a lower concentration of fertilizer. While plants not actively growing can suffer root burn if they are fed during winter, they are best left unfertilized until they start growing in spring.

Time for fall gardening is quickly running out as the winter months start to arrive. It can feel a little stressful for those of us who haven't been able to dedicate as much time to the garden as we would have liked, so now is the time to start prioritizing jobs to use our time wisely. Luckily, gardening experts say there are a handful of gardening tasks you can delay until spring and take off your to-do list for the meantime.

If, like me, you've reached November and there are still quite a few items on your fall gardening checklist, don't fret. There are plenty of tasks that, although ideal to do in the fall, can still be done in the spring. Both seasons offer milder weather conditions, providing two opportunities for a wide range of yard tasks.

Of course, some jobs can't be missed this season, especially those relating to overwintering your garden and preparing your plants for the harshest conditions of winter. But, there are equally quite a few gardening tasks that can be delayed until spring. Here are five jobs gardening experts say not to worry about this season.

5 gardening tasks you can delay until spring

One thing that mustn't be put off this season is planting spring bulbs, as these need to get in the ground now to ensure they have enough time to establish over winter for spring blooming. However, pruning, tidying, and even some propagating jobs can wait until the spring months.

1. Cutting back perennials

While there are plenty of plants to prune in November, many summer-flowering perennials don't necessarily need cutting back until spring. In fact, avoiding deadheading will provide you with structural seedheads for winter interest.

'The only perennials you really need to cut back are plants like monarda (bee balm) which frequently succumbs to powdery mildew,' says Lorraine Ballato, gardening expert and author.

'That pathogen will reinoculate the plant next season when the conditions are ripe, so clear it out now and trash the debris,' she advises.

Seedheads from perennials offer plenty of food and shelter for winter wildlife, including helping to feed birds in winter. But, this isn't the only reason to leave perennials alone after flowering.

'All pruning stimulates a plant and encourages it to put on new growth. That's the opposite of what you want as it enters dormancy,' Lorraine describes. 'There is a risk that new growth won't make it through the winter as it will be weak from not enough growing time.'

Fading foliage can also help protect the crown of many perennials from the harshest winter weather, so it's often best to wait to cut them back until spring, anyhow.

The best thing to do is research the specific pruning needs of the perennials growing in your yard. See our guide to plants to never prune in October and November for more guidance.

2. Dividing perennials

Fall is a great opportunity to divide plants to propagate them, as it provides sufficient time to establish and settle before flowering again next year. If you run out of time to do this in the fall, spring offers another opportunity to do this, specifically with summer-flowering perennials.

Division in early spring provides plenty of time for roots to establish before hot, dry summer conditions. Plus, the ground will have thawed from winter and will be easier to work with.

Dividing perennials every few years will also help keep them from overcrowding, encouraging more vigorous growth and a healthier root system, as well as doubling the number of plants in your yard.

Read our article on when to divide plants for more information on which perennials to divide in spring, including daylilies and geraniums.

3. Fertilizing your lawn

While fertilizing your lawn is a highly beneficial task on the fall lawn care list, it isn't a job entirely fundamental for this time of year.

Fertilizing your lawn in the fall is primarily to help it recover from summer heat stress and to strengthen roots ahead of winter. This is something particularly beneficial for cool-season grass, encouraging a greener, thicker lawn come spring.

However, waiting to give your lawn a boost in early spring, ahead of the active growth season, will also prove to be beneficial. This is especially true if you haven't managed to fertilize your lawn before frost arrives in fall.

It would actually be a fertilizing mistake to do so, as your lawn goes dormant in winter and won't be soaking up the fertilizer. It can lead to root burn and root rot, weakening and even killing your grass.

So, if you've reached mid-November without having fertilized your lawn in fall, it's best to wait until spring.

4. Sterilizing gardening tools

Cleaning gardening tools is vital to keep pests and diseases from spreading. Doing so before storing them for winter will prevent overwintering diseases that can then spread when you pick your tools back up in spring.

However, if you haven't had the chance to thoroughly clean your tools in fall, you can dedicate time to sterilizing them in spring before using them again.

'If tools didn't get some TLC before the snow, springtime is better than never,' says Greg Cuoco, CEO of The Difference Landscapes.

'Start with dirt removal, and use turpentine to get rid of any sticky sap residue. Next, any tools used to remove or trim diseased plants should be disinfected before reuse.'

You can just use warm water and disinfectants, like cleaning vinegar. See our guide to clean rusty gardening tools if they need a bit more attention.

5. Clearing up fallen leaves

If you have trees in your yard, the ground is likely to be covered in fallen leaves this season. While it can be tempting to quickly collect fallen leaves and tidy everything up, experts urge you to hold off on this job until spring.

'Don't be fastidious about clearing up. Wildlife and insects need the debris of the growing season to hibernate and feed throughout the winter,' says Lorraine.

It's true, as over-tidying your yard in fall can harm hibernating wildlife and those seeking shelter. Fallen leaves are often essential for this, especially for beneficial insects and small mammals.

Come spring, spruce up your yard by gathering fallen leaves and other debris from the winter months. You can even start making leaf mulch or compost, ready for use next fall.

FAQs

When is it too late to plant spring bulbs?

It's too late to plant spring bulbs once the ground has frozen and is unworkable. It's best to get your bulbs planted before frost for this reason, allowing them to establish a robust root system through winter for flowering in spring.

The above are gardening tasks you can delay until spring, which means you can turn your attention to the tasks that do need doing this month. For example, there are plenty of plants to propagate in November and greenhouse jobs for November.

Shop fall gardening accessories:

As fall rolls on and temperatures drop, a gardener’s mind needs to focus on moving tender plants indoors to protect them from the incoming frosts. If your overwintering plans haven’t kicked into overdrive yet, it must do so this month, as time is counting down.

To help you get planning, this guide highlights seven plants to bring indoors in November so they don’t perish in the cold. It includes classic cold-hardy plants, tropical indoor plants that can spend summers outside but must be brought back in, and a couple of plants that some gardeners often treat as annuals and might be surprised can be overwintered indoors.

When your deadline is to overwinter these plants indoors will depend on your US hardiness zone. However, for each of these plants to bring indoors in November, I reveal the ideal spot to overwinter them, along with a few tips for keeping them healthy for the months ahead.

7 more plants to bring indoors in November

Last year, I highlighted some tender plants that gardeners need to consider lifting and bringing indoors in November. This includes the likes of dahlias, citrus trees, cannas, olives, and begonias.

All of those mentioned on the initial plants to bring indoors in November from 12 months ago must be on your to-do list for overwintering plants indoors this month.

However, as more plants will need your attention too, here are seven more plants to bring indoors in November and add to your fall gardening checklist.

1. Agapanthus

Agapanthus are universally adored for their spectacular tall spikes of blooms, but they are tender plants that need protection in winter in all but the warmest US hardiness zones.

Deciduous varieties of agapanthus are a bit hardier than evergreen types, but both will benefit from some TLC to get them through winters in US hardiness zones 8 and below.

If you grow agapanthus in containers, it can be as simple as moving containers indoors into an unheated greenhouse or porch, or you can place the pot next to a south-facing wall for protection.

The alternative is to lift the rhizomes, let them dry for a few days, and winterize agapanthus indoors in a box filled with shredded paper.

2. Bromeliads

Bromeliads bring a tropical garden vibe wherever they grow, and in many climates, they make fantastic houseplants to grow outdoors during the summer months.

They are tropical plants that can only live outside permanently in US hardiness zones 10+, so elsewhere they need to be indoor plants during winter to shelter from the cold. You want to keep a close eye on local weather forecasts, and bring bromeliads indoors once the nighttime temperatures are predicted to drop to around 50°F.

When moving plants indoors to care for bromeliads during the colder months, it is advisable to inspect the plant and the pot for any pests. They can harbour aphids or mealybugs that will enjoy spending their winter inside the home.

To combat this, spray plants with insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids and other small pests, such as this ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart.

3. Coleus

Coleus are popular foliage plants, thanks to their unique leaves in striking shades ranging from deep purple to lime green. But they are sensitive to frost.

Many gardeners routinely grow coleus as an annual plant and throw them away once the first frosts kill them, but you can overwinter the plants indoors to enjoy them the next year.

Bring the plants indoors once the temperature looks set to drop below 50°F. Either move container plants or pot up coleus growing in mixed planters or flower beds.

The pot should be kept in a warm location, ideally somewhere that gets indirect sunlight. You can gently cut back coleus throughout winter by pinching back to growing stems to keep the plant compact and bushy.

An alternative way to overwinter them is to propagate coleus by taking plant cuttings in the fall, before the frosts.

4. Fuchsias

Tender fuchsias are popular plants for adding color and drama to summer displays. Many gardeners grow tender fuchsias in hanging baskets or containers, where the trailing habit allows the flowers to cascade over the edges for a beautiful display.

They are another that many people discard come winter, but it is not difficult to overwinter fuchsia rather than chuck them away.

Potted tender fuchsias can be kept as houseplants over winter, but they are finicky when growing indoors. The easier way to care for fuchsias over winter indoors is to keep them as dormant plants.

To do this, cut back the fuchsias and bring them indoors into a dark, frost-free place, such as a garage, basement, shed, or outbuilding. Water them infrequently, just to prevent the soil from drying out, over winter, and they can go back outside after the frosts in spring.

5. Herbs

Why not have a little indoor herb garden for the winter, perfect for fresh pickings of leaves throughout the winter months? Pots of herbs on a kitchen windowsill won’t grow massively during winter, but they will still provide harvests for all manner of festive meals.

Potted tender herbs like dill, parsley, and chives can all thrive on a sunny windowsill, along with other hardier plants like sage, rosemary, and mint, provided they get six hours of light per day. Indoor herbs can benefit from extra humidity, so place them on a pebble tray for plants. (like this humidity tray with decorative rocks available at Amazon)

Check the plants for pests before bringing them into the home, and deal with any issues before relocating them indoors. Also, take care not to overwater them when growing indoors.

6. Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums, or hardy geraniums, are tender perennials with bright flowers and highly fragrant foliage.

There is a wide range of plants to choose from, with a variety of unique scents available, and they can continue flowering indoors over winter, even at temperatures of 45-50ºF. If you move them indoors before frost, you can enjoy the blooms and aromas for longer, which is a much preferred alternative to throwing away plants.

To overwinter geraniums indoors, bring pots under cover (you may need to pot up plants in flower beds or larger container displays) and place them in a bright, frost-free position, such as a greenhouse, conservatory, sunroom, or sunny windowsill.

Water them every few weeks, once the top two inches of soil dry out, and pinch back the stems to encourage new shoots.

You can lift plants and overwinter them bare-root, stored wrapped in newspaper in a frost-free shed or garage. However, this method doesn’t allow you to enjoy their virtues through the winter.

7. Succulents

Non-cold-hardy succulents and cacti, including aloe, echeveria, crassula, aeonium, senecio, and many sedum varieties, need to be brought indoors before the first frost. You can keep succulents indoors over winter in a greenhouse, conservatory, or in front of a bright south-facing window.

It is beneficial to water them deeply a few days before bringing them inside, and give your succulents some care by inspecting for pests, removing any debris, and giving the pots a brush so your displays look their best.

The biggest mistake to avoid when caring for succulents in winter is avoiding overwatering. Many succulents are dormant during winter and need water sparingly when the soil dries out. Giving them too moisture is a common cause of root rot in succulents, especially during winter.

If you intend to overwinter plants indoors as houseplants for the colder months, they do need to be prepared for their new life inside. It is done in the reverse way of hardening off plants in spring to acclimatize them to a new outdoor life after spending time in a warm, protected environment.

Gradually expose the plants to more warmth, increasing their time spent in a warmer environment a bit at a time, before bringing them fully inside. This gradual approach is preferable to shocking them with an instant transition from outdoors to indoors, which can stress plants and cause them to drop leaves.

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A greenhouse is a wonderfully valuable space for gardeners, and come late fall, it becomes a haven to protect plants for winter and do late sowings of cold-hardy crops. Even an unheated greenhouse can be 10-30°F warmer during the day, and several degrees warmer at night, providing an ideal, protected environment for plants.

I worked in several gardens with greenhouses, including one with two large restored Victorian glasshouses. They were a great space to overwinter plants indoors. I've also grown microgreens in there year-round, and propagated plants indoors in late fall. November isn't just a time for fun jobs like propagating, though. I also found it an ideal time to prepare for winter and spring by cleaning and sorting the space.

For this list of greenhouse jobs for November, there is a mix of routine (but still highly useful) and enjoyable tasks. These greenhouse ideas for the month include sowing, propagating, and plant care, as well as some clearing, cleaning, and prepping.

7 greenhouse jobs for November to remember

Your fall gardening checklist is likely chock-full of jobs to do this month. However, if there is inclement weather, this provides an ideal opportunity to take shelter in the greenhouse and complete some of these greenhouse jobs for November.

1. Clean the greenhouse

Cleaning and maintaining the structure is an important part of winterizing a greenhouse, and this month is an ideal time to make a head start on it. Trust me, any plants in there for winter will thank you, and a clean greenhouse gets you off to a great start for the next gardening year.

Start with the glass. If you used shading paint earlier in the year, remove it to maximize the light levels reaching the plants. Give any greenhouse panes a good clean, inside and outside, to ensure plants receive the most light possible during the winter months, when levels are naturally at their lowest.

Give the floors and benches a sweep, and clean any greenhouse staging and frames with disinfectant (such as this Hydrogen Peroxide All Purpose Cleaner at The Home Depot) to combat any lingering pests or diseases.

It is also a great time to remove leaves from your gutters, so they don't get clogged. This is especially important if you are harvesting rainwater and storing it in a rain barrel to water plants.

2. Install insulation

Keeping a greenhouse warm expands the potential range of uses over the colder months of the year. If your greenhouse isn't currently heated, there are measures you can put in place this month to keep it warmer over winter to fit any budget.

A fan heater, such as this greenhouse heater with a thermostat at Amazon, can make it warm enough to overwinter tender plants and grow plants from seed through the colder months, with the added assistance of a heated propagation mat (like this seedling heat mat at Walmart).

But if you are just looking to overwinter cold-tolerant vegetables or ornamental plants, you don't always need expensive heaters. This month is an ideal time to attach bubble wrap to the inside of the glass to insulate the wall and roof of the greenhouse.

Using bubble wrap protects plants from frost and reduces heat loss. Rather than wrap the entire structure, a simpler alternative is to use horticultural fleece to cover plants if you merely want to insulate them from the cold.

3. Do final sowings

A greenhouse can extend the growing season for vegetables and herbs, and also offer the opportunity to start flower seeds indoors for earlier blooms next year.

The likes of lettuce, spinach, arugula, and Asian leaves such as mizuna, bok choy, and mustards can thrive in cooler fall temperatures and make great vegetables to grow in a greenhouse in the fall.

In terms of flowers, hardy annuals, including sweet peas, cornflowers, larkspur, California poppy, and marigolds, can all be sown in November to overwinter in a greenhouse and flower in spring.

All seedlings need warmth to germinate and survive, so you may need to insulate or heat a greenhouse to ensure the minimum greenhouse temperature stays above 45°F for seedlings to grow during winter.

A greenhouse thermometer (such as this bluetooth digital hygrometer at Amazon) can help you track the temperatures during the day and night to keep them at safe levels for seedlings.

4. Take cuttings

You can take plant cuttings this month to overwinter in the greenhouse, as they don't need especially warm temperatures, just a protected, frost-free place to start developing roots.

You can propagate plants in November in two ways. Shrubs are suitable for hardwood cuttings, while you can propagate perennials from root cuttings.

Root cuttings are great for perennials with fleshy roots, such as phlox, verbascum, and hardy geraniums, and you can propagate many new plants from one parent. To do this, carefully dig up plants and cut 3-4 inch sections of healthy roots with a sharp knife.

Thinner roots can be laid on the surface of compost and covered with a thin layer of grit. For perennials with thicker roots, slice them with a horizontal cut at the top and an angled cut at the bottom and place them into pots with the top end flush with the soil surface.

5. Clear out old crops

If you haven't gotten around to it yet, now is the time to remove any old summer crops from the greenhouse, whether you grow them in beds, raised beds, pots, or grow bags.

Heat-loving crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, and peppers are often grown in greenhouses in cooler climates, but they are likely to have stopped producing harvests come November. If you do have any fruits left on your tomato plants, it is better to ripen green tomatoes with a banana in a paper bag, rather than stubbornly leaving them on the plant.

Remove the summer crops and use them to make compost, provided they show no signs of pests or diseases.

The resulting space in greenhouse beds or raised beds can be used to sow some fast-growing vegetables like arugula, lettuce, or spinach for winter crops, or you can cover the beds with mulch and let them settle until spring.

6. Wash pots and trays

It may not be a glamorous task, but washing all your empty pots and trays keeps the greenhouse pest and disease-free. And it ensures they are all ready to use again come spring.

Bacteria, viruses, and fungi can all live and overwinter in any old soil left in your pots and trays. An annual winter clean prevents them from building up and also removes any pests loitering around, as aphids, spider mites, fungus gnats, and more can thrive in the greenhouse over the colder months and continue to breed and trouble plants.

To clean flower pots, start with a heavy-duty brush to remove any old soil or debris from the inside of the pot or tray. Then make a solution of one part bleach to ten parts water, and soak your containers in it for around half an hour.

Let the pots and trays dry naturally and then neatly store them away in the greenhouse. It is an under-estimated way to prepare for seed sowing, but it means your containers are ready for when you start sowing seeds indoors come spring.

7. Ventilate on dry days

When you think of greenhouse ventilation, you probably imagine hot summer days where you need doors and vents open to cool down your plants.

However, the importance of ventilating a greenhouse in fall and winter is often underestimated. But it is something to bear in mind this month, to reduce the risk of diseases.

Air circulation is crucial for disease prevention. It reduces humidity, and moist air can leave plants susceptible to fungal diseases. You can ensure good circulation by opening vents, opening doors, or using a fan on dry and sunny fall days.

Close the doors or vents again in the afternoon to trap the last of the day's heat in the greenhouse, so that warmth can be conserved into the evening.

Plants will need watering in late fall and winter in greenhouses, but do so carefully. They need a careful approach to avoid overwatering plants, which increases the risk of root rot during the colder months.

Water deeply only when essential, and use a soil moisture meter to judge when to water plants in containers. Also, when you water plants, avoid wetting the foliage, as soaking wet leaves are more at risk of fungal diseases.

The lower temperatures and less light of November trigger deciduous trees to enter dormancy this month. As they begin their slumber for the colder months, the window for pruning them opens to the gardener. If you want to get ahead this month, here are seven trees to prune in November.

You have from now until early spring to give deciduous trees a potentially much-needed trim, and pruning on a bright day in late fall can often be more enjoyable than on a cold one in late winter. Starting early in the window also has its benefits if you have many trees and shrubs that need pruning before the end of winter. It can be satisfying to get some things ticked off on a nice day, as opposed to rushing at the back end of the window, desperately trying to get everything done.

There is quite a selection of plants that can be trimmed this month, including fruit trees, nut trees, and ornamental trees. Pruning in late fall was a regular task during my time as a professional gardener, especially when I had a long checklist of fruit trees to prune in one particular walled garden. It can be a busy month for gardeners, as there are potentially many plants to prune in November. Here we focus on the trees in your yard that may benefit from a trim.

7 trees to prune in November – why it's important to check before you cut

While many trees will benefit from some attention this month, not all will. You can risk the health of some trees by pruning, or badly affect the display of spring bloom for others.

There are some trees (for example, birch and walnuts) that will bleed sap and be susceptible to pests and diseases. There are others (for example, magnolias and flowering dogwoods), where you risk removing the buds that will carry next spring’s blooms.

And finally, stone fruit trees are not pruned during dormancy like other fruit trees. It is a fruit tree pruning mistake to trim them in dormancy, as they’ll be left at risk of diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker.

Always check before doing any trimming to ensure you are not making a tree pruning mistake by trimming this month. However, all of the following are certainly trees to prune in November, and they will appreciate any TLC you give them over the coming weeks.

1. Apple

Let’s start with only of the most popular and widely grown fruit trees, apples.

Pruning is important for apples as most trees fruit on spurs, so any annual pruning promotes the growth of more buds to carry fruit. The trimming also controls the size and shape of the tree, ensuring the branches can support the weight of the fruits. Finally, it allows for air circulation and light penetration among the canopy, which keeps the tree healthy overall.

The window to prune an apple tree starts in November and runs until late winter or early spring. You want to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or growing inwards towards the central trunk of the tree. You ideally want an open goblet shape of well-spaced branches.

To promote lots of branching and the growth of fruiting spurs, trim last year’s growth by a third, cutting to an outward-facing bud. You can do this with a pair of sharp pruning shears.

I personally have a trusty pair of Felco 2 pruning shears that I have used to prune many fruit trees over my years as a professional gardener – and you can get new Felco F2 pruning shears on Amazon that can last for decades, as every part is replaceable.

When pruning espalier apple trees, winter pruning involves removing dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as any necessary trimming to maintain the trained tree's shape or thin congested spurs.

2. Pear

Pear trees are another of those ubiquitous fruit trees; millions of gardeners globally love them as the fruits from homegrown trees surpass any you get in stores. I have maintained free-standing and trained pear trees in kitchen gardens, and winter pruning maintains their shape and, like apples, promotes the formation of spurs to carry fruit.

Prune pear trees when they are dormant, but resist the urge to trim early, as it can stimulate new growth, which is damaged by frosts and leave the entire tree susceptible to pests and diseases.

Annual pruning always starts with removing dead, diseased or damaged branches. Next, look to thin the tree by removing crossing, weak, or unwanted branches to improve air and light circulation.

Again, aim for a goblet or vase shape, which can be slightly trickier with pears, as their branches grow more upright than apple trees. Trimming back each main branch by a third can promote spurs and reduce the length of branches to support the weight of the fruit. This is also helpful as pear wood is softer than apple wood.

Loppers are the best pruning tools for thicker branches; they are suitable for ones 1-2 inches thick, compared to one inch for pruning shears. A pair of extendable loppers like these at Amazon can also reach higher up into the tree to cut branches up to two inches thick.

3. Quince

Quinces were once very popular trees in colonial gardens, but they fell out of fashion. That is now changing, and growing quince trees is experiencing a bit of a resurgence. A good selling point for them is that they are easy fruit trees to grow, including not requiring lots of regular pruning.

You do need to prune quince trees annually when they are young, to give them a good framework of branches and an open goblet shape.

Established trees then mainly just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed, and weak, congested, or crossing branches trimmed out to open up the canopy and let more air and light in.

As quince trees fruit on tips at the end of their branches, any branches that get too long are best shortened, as the weight of the heavy fruits can cause them to snap. It is also advisable to remove suckers from around the base of the tree whenever you see them.

Quince trees can reach up to 20 feet tall, so you may need an extendable tree pruner to cut higher branches. This 2-in-1 extendable tree pruner at Amazon has a pruning blade and a pole saw head for trimming branches of different sizes.

4. Mulberry

Mulberries are unique fruits to grow, with rich, tart, and juicy fruits resembling large, elongated blackberries that are rarely sold in shops. When growing mulberry trees, pruning is a task that must always be done gently.

That forgiving touch is essential as mulberry trees struggle to heal large wounds. It means you want to make as few cuts as possible and never want to prune branches over two inches in diameter, as it can leave the tree prone to fungal or bacterial diseases, as the open wounds take a long time to mend.

When you prune a mulberry tree, remove dead, diseased, damaged, and crossing branches to open up the canopy. And make a few small-scale trims to thin the tree, but never remove more than a quarter of the tree at one time. Over-pruning mulberries does affect fruiting, as well as leaving the tree vulnerable to diseases and pests.

For any pruning, ensure your tools are clean and sharp. A pocket-sized sharpening tool, like this one at Amazon, can be used on straight blade tools, including pruning shears, loppers, and hedging shears.

5. Beech

Beech trees are historic British trees. Many people use beech as a hedging plant, but they make beautiful trees for any landscape, thanks to their stately shape, dense foliage, and dazzling fall color.

They can reach 90-130 feet when left to their own devices. This is where regular pruning is helpful, to maintain the ideal size, keep it manageable for any yard, and ensure the tree remains healthy and beautiful for decades to come.

Beech trees do bleed sap when they are actively growing, so pruning always takes place during dormancy. As with all others on this list, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, along with any growing too close to the ground or going inwards towards the trunk.

If the tree has grown too tall, use crown reduction to bring down the height over the course of a few years. Never top the tree, which is removing the central stem and main canopy branches in one go. Not only does a topped tree look ugly, but it also places huge stress on it, and can affect its future growth.

6. Hazelnuts

Varieties of hazelnuts, which are also known as cobnuts and filberts, should be regularly pruned in dormancy to promote wood to carry the crop of nuts. Some of the most common varieties include the American hazelnut (Corylus americana), the European hazelnut (Corylus avellana), and the large filbert (Corylus maxima).

The trees are ideally grown as multi-stemmed trees, which helps boost pollination and gives the best crop. Such a form should have between five and ten well-spaced, strong stems, with the structure formed over the first five years of the tree’s life. Once the main stems reach 7-8 feet, cut them back to a bud to encourage sideshoots.

Established hazelnuts require removing suckers and opening up the tree to combat potential congestion. Make thinning cuts to remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches, weak shoots, inward-growing stems, or overcrowded areas. This thinning allows more light into the tree.

You can remove a few older, upright stems to reduce congestion. However, when trimming, remember the one-third pruning rule, to only trim out up to a third of the growth at any given time.

Larger, older stems may require the use of a pruning saw, which is used for branches beyond the thickness of pruning shears or loppers. For example, this Fiskars folding hand saw at Walmart has a 10-inch blade with razor-sharp, triple-ground teeth for cutting through thick branches.

7. Davidia

The handkerchief tree (Davidia involucrata) is native to China and a stunning, under-rated tree. It gets its name from the glorious white bracts which surround the flowers in spring, as they flutter in the wind like handkerchiefs hanging from the branches.

A handkerchief tree can take 10 years to start flowering after planting. They may be a luxury, but they are very low-maintenance trees. They do not respond well to heavy pruning, so always treat a handkerchief tree with a gentle touch. The risk of over-pruning is that the tree gets stressed, which likely results in fewer flowers.

Formative pruning is required to train a single-stemmed tree, as there is a risk of the tree splitting if there is more than one leading shoot. Once established, focus primarily on removing the usual suspects of dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or rubbing.

If you are looking for more jobs to add to your fall gardening checklist this month, it is worth remembering that November can be an ideal time to take plant cuttings. This rewarding task gives you free shrubs or perennial plants for your garden. If you are interested in finding out more, this guide to plants to propagate in November highlights seven plants you can take cuttings from, along with expert tips for each.

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As the gardening calendar ticks around into late fall, we see winter on the horizon, and many thoughts go to tidying up plants and putting the garden to bed. However, if we think winter is tough for us, spare a thought for wildlife that are desperately searching for food and shelter at this lean time of year.

Thankfully, gardeners can do many things to help all kinds of wildlife during the winter months. And it is not difficult things, it can be simple measures like not cutting back plants and making leaf or log piles towards the back of our borders. These elementary moves might not seem much, but they make a big difference.

So, let's reveal a few of the best things you can do this month to make your yard more of a wildlife garden. Here, some gardening and wildlife experts recommend five wildlife garden jobs for November that are guaranteed to help birds, mammals, beneficial insects, frogs, reptiles, and more.

Wildlife garden jobs for November – 5 tasks to consider

November offers a great opportunity to make tangible decisions that can help garden wildlife cope through winter and into spring. It can be a tumultuous period for all manner of wildlife, so it pays to help pollinators and birds in the fall.

These wildlife garden jobs for November provide food and shelter, making a big difference. They are great ideas to add to any fall gardening checklist.

1. Leave seedheads

The seedheads of many popular perennial plants come to the fore in the fall, as they become an increasingly vital food source for birds. There are huge benefits to resisting the urge to deadhead plants late in the season and opting not to cut back all perennials in the fall.

Dr Amy Karpati, Senior Science Advisor at Teatown Lake Reservation, claims both the seedheads of flowers and grasses can provide 'critical food' for birds, including goldfinches, cardinals, chickadees, and sparrows, during the colder months, when their food sources are limited.

And it is some of the most common flower bed plants that can make a difference, with the likes of coneflower, black-eyed Susan, verbena, goldenrod, and sunflowers all great plants for seedheads. Keep those pruning shears tucked away in the fall, and these plants will provide an essential energy-rich food source for all manner of birds.

Andrew Marshall, garden designer and owner at Go Wild Landscapes, highlights one other hugely important plant to leave untouched this season.

He says: 'Teasel heads are a great example of something that many birds really love to eat, important at a time when there may be less food available and, due to the colder weather, birds need to eat more.'

2. Don't over-tidy

If you prefer a tidy garden over winter and leaving dried flower heads gives you the ick, then you may not like this either. However, leaving old stems on flower beds, collecting piles of leaves, and piling up debris, sticks, and logs is a highly valuable way a gardener can provide habitat for animals that hibernate through winter.

Dr Amy Karpati describes providing winter shelter as 'the best thing gardeners can do to support wildlife through the cold months', and she reveals the breadth of wildlife that can reap the benefits of these simple measures.

'Woody debris piles, an undisturbed layer of fallen leaves, and standing dried wildflowers and grasses all provide shelter for birds, small mammals, and beneficial insects,' says Amy.

'Fallen leaves can be left in place or raked into perennial beds or other yard edges for insects like butterflies and fireflies that overwinter as eggs, pupae, or larvae under the leaves before emerging as adults the following spring and summer.'

Such leaf piles, log piles, or wildlife stacks don't always have to be front and center in the flower bed. Simple DIY wildlife shelters can be put at the back of borders or stacked behind a shed.

Jen Rose, the founder of Bee Cups, highlights how making such piles can support bees. It is a good way to make your garden wildlife-friendly before frost rather than impacting the bees' life cycle by over-tidying a garden in the fall.

'Many native bees and other beneficial insects nest in hollow flower stems or decaying wood, so resist the urge to over-tidy your garden,' says the bee expert. 'When cleaning up, avoid tossing out potential future pollinators; those stems and sticks may be home to next year's bees.

'Instead, gather your garden clippings into a small brush pile placed away from your home, and wait until temperatures warm again in spring before mulching or bagging them.'

3. Add late and early food sources

One of the longer-term wildlife garden jobs for November you can do is to fill your yard with late and early food. Think shrubs with fall berries, plants with winter berries, spring bulbs, and spring-flowering plants.

Adding a mixture of these to your backyard ideas can provide a readily accessible food source for wildlife throughout the colder months. Fall can be an ideal time to plant shrubs, before the frosts arrive, to provide food for many winters to come.

'Late fall is the perfect time for adding wildlife-supporting shrubs and bulbs,' says Peter Ivanov, plant expert at Fantastic Gardeners. 'The shrubs can be hawthorn, holly, crab apple, dog rose and hazel, which provide berries and shelter.'

Dr Amy Karpati also highlights winterberry as a native plant that retains fruits throughout winter, making them 'especially valuable as a food source' in a winter garden. You can get a live winterberry shrub at Nature Hills for those attractive red berries in the colder months.

In terms of spring bulbs, plant crocus for nectar-rich blooms in spring, while hellebores, grape hyacinth, snowdrops, and winter aconite all provide early nectar for early pollinators out hunting for food in early spring.

4. Pile stones

Many people will have read lots about log piles for wildlife, but the importance of stone piles is often less highlighted. They can provide shelter for amphibians, reptiles, and invertebrates, protecting them against cold winter weather and making an ideal spot for overwintering.

'If you have a big collection of rocks or bricks that you haven't found a use for, just pile them up and leave them undisturbed in a sheltered space, preferably out of sight if you think it might be an eyesore,' advises Andrew Marshall. 'This will become a great space for reptiles to hibernate over winter, as well as a great spot for insects to live.'

Pick a spot where the wildlife can get cover and pile rocks or stones of varying sizes, which will create cavities and tunnels. Leaving a wildlife corridor of untrimmed plants or grass helps any visitors get shelter on their way to the stone.

A slightly bigger wildlife garden job for November can be to build a garden pond. As well as encourage more wildlife and provide lots of different habitats, Andrew adds: 'It can attract toads which will end up eating lots of slugs and snails - a handy way of managing pests in a more environmentally friendly way.'

5. Clean nesting boxes

This month is a good time to clean nesting and roosting boxes, as all nesting activity will have stopped for the year.

Cleaning birdhouses kills parasites, making them safe for small birds to use during colder weather. You can also clean empty bat boxes in November, though some may be in use as bats hibernate in the winter.

Check the box is empty before scrubbing out any dirt and pouring boiling water inside to kill any remaining parasites. Avoid using chemical cleaners, which can prove harmful to birds. Hang the box back up after it has thoroughly dried.

Another way to help garden birds for winter is to hang bird feeders. As natural food sources are potentially at their lowest at these times of year, supplementing them with a bird feeder for fall and winter is a great way to help birds.

Maria Kincaid, an ornithologist from FeatherSnap, claims: ‘Hanging it in the fall allows for the birds to get used to it being there before the amount of those natural food sources drops - it may even allow for those caching species, like chickadees and nuthatches, to build a little hoard for the lean times.'

If you want to see your garden visitors up close during the fall and winter, a bird feeder camera allows you to enjoy pictures of your garden friends. You can get ones, such as the bird buddy feeder, available from Amazon, which use AI technology to identify the birds you see on the camera.

If you're seeking further inspiration to turn your garden into a safe haven for wildlife during winter, we're here to assist. This guide to winter plants for wildlife highlights five excellent choices that offer food and shelter during the colder months.

It showcases some great plants you can add to your yard to provide vital winter cover from the weather and predators, plus those with edible winter berries and flowers for early spring pollinators.

Milkweed is famed for being an important plant for the Monarch butterfly, and it may surprise you to know that late fall is an ideal time to start perennial varieties by sowing outdoors. It does work and is a quick and easy job to attract pollinators to your garden for years to come.

As the temperatures drop and the first light frosts arrive, it might not sound like the ideal time to start growing milkweed. However, there is method in this perceived madness. As sowing in the fall mimics nature and removes one hurdle you need to overcome when planting milkweed seeds in the spring.

If you are tempted to plant milkweed seeds in the fall, this guide reveals the best varieties to sow this season, along with four super-simple sowing steps to follow. It won't take up much of your time this fall, and the results will make it all worthwhile. You'll get bright blooms that support butterflies, as well as bees, hummingbirds, and other beneficial insects.

Can you plant milkweed in the fall?

Yes, you can plant many varieties of milkweed seeds in the fall. It is a great way to grow a fantastic plant for pollinators, especially with milkweed being the only host plant for Monarch butterflies.

Their population has declined hugely over the last 20 years, making it an important time for more gardeners to consider growing milkweed for Monarch butterflies.

As fall is an ideal time to plant milkweed seeds for plants to bolster your wildlife garden next year, why not add this simple task to your fall gardening checklist and let nature do its course?

Why you should plant milkweed seeds in fall

Milkweed seeds require a period of cold stratification to exit dormancy and sprout. While many gardeners replicate nature by stratifying seeds in a refrigerator in spring when sowing seeds indoors, the beauty of planting milkweed seeds in the fall is that you can stratify the seeds naturally.

Sowing in the fall lets nature do the work for you. This is far easier than artificially mimicking nature by having seeds in a container taking up space in your refrigerator for 30 days or more (potentially up to 60 days for the best results from some varieties).

In mid-to-late fall, the soil will be cold enough to stop the seeds from germinating without the ground being frozen – this is the perfect time to sow. When planning an ideal window for planting milkweed seeds in the fall, aim for just after the first light fall frosts.

This likely means sowing seeds outdoors in mid-October for zone 5, late October for zone 6, early November for zone 7, mid-November for zone 8, and as late as early December for zone 9. Keep an eye on the local forecasts, so you sow the seeds before the first ground frosts.

However, it is not a one-size-fits-all approach for all milkweed. Not all varieties of milkweed require stratification. It is advisable to check seed packets for information on whether they need it.

If you have harvested milkweed seeds from existing plants, the typical perennial varieties that need cold stratification include common milkweed, swamp milkweed, whorled milkweed, butterfly weed, and showy milkweed. Tropical milkweed and other annual varieties do not need it.

How to plant milkweed seeds in fall – 4 simple steps

The best way to plant milkweed seeds in fall is outdoors, directly into their desired growing position.

You can sow them in pots, with a view to transplanting seedlings outdoors after they have sprouted in the spring. However, you do need to ensure the pots have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging and are protected throughout winter and spring to stop them blowing over or getting damaged.

Planting milkweed seeds outdoors in the fall can be done in the following simple steps:

1. Pick a sunny spot in your yard with well-draining soil. It can be in flower beds, mixed borders, or dedicated wildflower meadows. Clear the area of weeds, debris, and large stones, and rake the soil level before sowing.
2. Water the ground if it is dry before sowing, and let the water soak into the soil.
3. Scatter the milkweed seeds over the surface and gently rake them over to work them into the soil.
4. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of more soil or compost. Then add an inch or two of mulch, such as straw or chopped up leaves.

The seeds will quietly sit there over the winter and begin to sprout once the soil temperatures warm in the spring. Milkweed seeds tend to germinate once the soil reaches 65°F to 75°F, which you can check in spring with a soil thermometer.

The milkweed seedlings will likely need to be thinned out once they appear in spring, starting at six inches but ultimately to around 18 inches apart, so plants can reach their full size.

The exact spacing required can depend on the type of milkweed, but it is better to start small and increase over time. You can always dig up plants and move them elsewhere in your yard.

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There are many other flowers you can sow in the fall, too, as you take advantage of cold snaps sparking the seeds into life come the spring. For lots of inspiration, our guide to the best flowers to sow in the fall reveals 16 seeds to plant during the season for a bounty of blooms the following year.

Growing citrus trees in pots is a great way to enjoy the luscious foliage and delicious, fragrant fruits without a Mediterranean climate. After a summer outside to soak up the sun, you do need to overwinter citrus trees when the temperatures drop in the fall.

This was an annual routine I undertook while caring for a large collection of citrus trees, including varieties of lemons, oranges, and limes, at a historic garden in the Midlands of the UK (US hardiness zone 8). The trees spent the colder months in an old orangery and were put on display outside for the warmer months.

October and November are prime months to start the process of overwintering citrus trees in pots. If you need to move yours indoors and haven't done it yet, consider this a call to action. To help you with overwintering citrus, I look at five key steps to follow to prepare the trees for winter and keep them healthy during their months indoors.

A guide to overwintering citrus trees in pots - 5 steps to follow

Growing citrus in pots opens up possibilities for gardeners in cooler climates to enjoy cultivating the tender fruits.

The plants can live year-round in protected environments, such as a greenhouse or conservatory, or be brought outside as patio plants for the summer to give a Mediterranean garden feel, before being moved back indoors to overwinter once the temperatures drop.

If you want to know more about overwintering citrus trees, the following are five key steps to follow for healthy trees:

1. Keep an eye on temperatures

Be proactive and ready to act quickly once the timing is right. That includes monitoring your temperatures and weather forecasts to move tender plants indoors ahead of predicted cold blasts.

Citrus trees are frost-tender. They like warm conditions and minimum temperatures of 50°F; though their cold tolerance varies depending on the type and cultivar.

While some lemon varieties can tolerate temperatures below 40°F, their hardiness is reduced in containers. When growing fruit trees in pots, the trees' roots are more susceptible to frost than when growing in the ground.

Be prepared to start overwintering citrus trees once temperatures consistently head down to around 50°F, and certainly before the first hard frost for your climate. Citrus trees can be damaged at around 25-28°F.

While growers in US hardiness zones 10 and above can keep citrus outdoors year-round, those in zones 8-9 should move their plants indoors between mid-October and mid-November. While in zones 7 and below, it may be early to mid-October.

If you live in a climate where overwintering citrus trees is required, add it to your fall gardening checklist and monitor the forecasts, as you may need to go early if there is a sudden drop in temperatures.

2. Prepare the tree for winter

Citrus trees are susceptible to all manner of unwanted pests, including aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites.

These pests can survive and thrive indoors over winter, away from many of their usual predators. It is best to try to deal with them and avoid them breeding during the winter.

Many small insects can be knocked off the tree with a strong jet of water, while you can spray trees with insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids and other insects. You can purchase a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart that can be sprayed onto trees to control a variety of insects.

A DIY solution is to make a homemade bug spray from water and liquid soap to deal with infestations. Spray the citrus tree weekly until the infestation is gone.

You can take this opportunity to lightly prune citrus trees, removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and making small cuts to shape the tree so it can conveniently fit indoors.

3. Bring them indoors

The ideal location for overwintering citrus trees indoors is bright and warm. They still want as much light as possible, ideally five hours of direct sunlight a day, in a greenhouse, conservatory, sunroom, or in front of a bright window.

Keep the trees at temperatures between 55°F and 65°F. Avoid placing them near heat sources, such as radiators, fireplaces, or heating ducts, which can dry the leaves, or near fluctuating temperatures caused by cold drafts or air conditioners.

One often neglected part of overwintering plants indoors is preparing them for life inside. Just as you harden plants off to go outside, you should do a similar thing before bringing them back inside.

Marina Prokaten, expert at the identifier and plant care app Plantum, advises you to 'expose the greenery to warmth gradually' rather than just bring the tree inside and be done with it.

'The shocking change in temperature may, at the very least, make your plant sick, and, in the worst but possible case, cause its death,' warns Marina.

She recommends first moving the citrus tree to a 'cooler location' outdoors for two days.

'Next, let it spend some time of the day inside, at temperatures similar to the cool ones it's experienced outside, for a week. Make sure to increase the time your plant spends indoors bit by bit,' adds Marina.

'Lastly, move the acclimated citrus tree to its permanent location.'

4. Reduce watering

Overwintering citrus trees still need watering throughout the colder months, only at a reduced level compared to during the warmer summer time.

To gauge when to water plants in containers, use your fingers to assess the levels two or three inches underneath the surface or use a soil moisture meter, such as this 3-in-1 soil meter at Amazon. Water plants deeply once the top few inches are dry.

However, take care not to overwater plants, as citrus trees dislike sitting in wet soil during the colder times of year. This watering mistake can cause the leaves of the citrus tree to turn yellow and drop.

To help with drainage, it is recommended to raise the pots off the ground using pot risers, such as these heavy-duty hexagonal pot feet at Amazon. Using pot feet helps excess water to drain away, preventing waterlogging and root rot.

Citrus trees do like humidity, so it can help them to mist the leaves regularly when growing indoors.

5. Adjust your feeding regime

In a similar vein to watering, continue to fertilize citrus trees in containers indoors over winter, but reduce the frequency of feeding compared to a summer regime.

With the citrus collection I helped maintain, the feeding regime dropped to once a month when the trees were overwintering, compared to every other week during the summer months.

While overwintering citrus indoors, feed plants with a balanced citrus-specific fertilizer to support overall development and health. For example, this citrus fertilizer at Amazon has an NPK of 6-4-6 and can be sprinkled around the tree monthly, mixed into the top inch of soil, and watered in.

FAQs

What is the lowest temperature a citrus tree can survive?

It all depends on the type of citrus tree, as some are much more cold-hardy than others. Many of the most common types, such as lemons, limes, and oranges, are severely damaged by temperatures in the mid-to-high 20s. There are some types, such as kumquats and satsuma mandarins, that can tolerate as low as 18°F. Most trees can tolerate short periods of low temperatures, but can be critically damaged by several hours of such cold.

A banana tree is another fruit tree that needs overwintering in colder climates, as frosts can kill the tropical tree. You can overwinter banana trees as tropical houseplants if you have the space. An alternative is to cut the plants back to 4-8 inches from the ground and overwinter the stump in a container in a cool, frost-free location.

Caladiums are bright plants that always dazzle. The lush, heart-shaped foliage comes in shades of red, pink, white, and green, making a big impression as they sit atop long stalks. However, they are frost-tender plants that require some attention to successfully overwinter, which varies depending on where you live or how you grow your plants.

If you live in warmer climates and plant caladium bulbs, you can leave the tropical plants in the ground for winter. Any gardeners with colder winters aren't so fortunate, so they need to know how to overwinter caladiums indoors. This can be achieved by lifting and storing the bulbs or relocating plants in pots indoors.

This in-depth guide to how to overwinter caladiums looks at the three ways of doing so. It includes simple steps to follow, whether you need to mulch plants outdoors or lift, cure and store bulbs indoors over the winter.

How to overwinter caladiums – a word of caution

Always wear gloves when handling caladiums, as the plant produces a sap that can irritate the skin. Don't forget gloves when planting, pruning, and digging up bulbs as part of overwintering caladium plants.

How to overwinter caladiums outdoors in warmer zones

Caladiums can be grown as perennials in US hardiness zones 9 to 11. They can be left in the ground to survive over winter in many circumstances, but will still benefit from protection.

After the caladium foliage dies back, place a thick layer of mulch over the plants to insulate them from the cold. A three-inch layer of compost, straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips (such as this premium organic mulch available at Amazon) will retain moisture in the ground and protect the bulbs throughout winter.

If you have wet winters or a heavy soil type that holds onto moisture, it is better to lift and store caladium bulbs, as they risk rotting in sodden ground over winter otherwise.

How to overwinter caladiums indoors in colder climates

If you live in climates with cold winters, including US hardiness zones 8 and below, you need to overwinter plants indoors by lifting and storing the bulbs.

This process begins once soil temperatures drop to around 60°F, which you can check with a soil moisture meter like this one available on Amazon. This occurs in late October or November, depending on your climate.

Once the temperatures reach this point, carefully dig up the caladium bulbs. You want to keep the foliage attached, rather than cut the leaves down at this point. Knock large clumps of soil off the bulbs, but don't worry about removing all the dirt. Then put them in a cool, dry location for two weeks to dry and cure.

After the curing period, once the leaves have shrivelled up and the bulb feels dry, cut off the foliage an inch above the bulbs, trim the roots, and brush off any soil remaining. Place the bulbs in a cardboard box on a thin layer of sand, sawdust, vermiculite or sphagnum moss, and then cover them with a few inches of the same medium.

Place the box in a cool, dry location where it will get temperatures of 55-60°F through winter, such as a shed, garage, or porch. Check the bulbs at least once a month, and remove any that show signs of rotting. If they appear to be drying out too much, lightly spray the packing material with water.

The overwintered caladium bulbs can be removed from storage and planted outdoors after the last spring frosts.

How to overwinter caladiums in pots

If you grow them in pots as a tropical patio plant in a container garden, you can overwinter caladiums in their pots rather than lift and store the bulbs.

It is not a perennial to grow as a houseplant over winter, as you still let the bulb go dormant. But overwintering caladiums in pots is a quick and easy way to overwinter the tender plant indoors.

Stop regularly watering come fall, and then move the container indoors once the temperatures start to drop below 60°F. Cut down the foliage once it wilts with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.

Place the pot in a cool, dry, and dark environment for winter, such as a garage, outbuilding, or cupboard, and keep a close eye to ensure the soil remains slightly damp, which prevents the bulb from drying out.

Come spring, top up the pot with a quality soil for container gardening (such as this organic potting mix at Burpee) and move the plant back outdoors to start growing again for the new season.

FAQs

What temperature is too cold for caladiums?

When temperatures consistently drop below 60°F, it is getting too cold for caladiums. This is the stage to start taking measures to overwinter caladiums. A frost is capable of destroying the bulb.

What month do caladiums go dormant?

Caladium bulbs start to go dormant in the fall. Stop watering or feeding plants at this stage, and allow the foliage to die back naturally before mulching the plants or lifting the bulbs.

Caladiums do make great shade plants as they can tolerate as little as four hours of sunlight a day. They can bring a tropical garden vibe even to the darker corners of your yard. Other great plants to brighten up such difficult shady areas include heuchera (coral bells), dicentra (bleeding heart), and hellebores (columbine).

November may be late in the gardening calendar, but there is still time to plant vegetables. Do not underestimate the power of late-season sowings, which can provide quick pickings, despite the cold, and also earlier harvests next year.

This month allows for late sowings of fast-growing vegetables, but pay close attention to their days to maturity to choose the best varieties. November also offers a chance to plant cold-hardy crops that can overwinter in the vegetable garden without issue for harvests come spring or summer.

Many of the vegetables to plant in November that I discuss here require protection in colder climates. Whether you grow them indoors, in a cold frame, or build tunnels or hoop houses, providing them with some protection will be crucial for success in late fall and early winter.

7 Vegetables to Plant in November

Building a small winter hoop house is a great way to protect plants from frost and help you to overwinter vegetables successfully.

They do not have to be large and can be simple to make, using garden hoops (like this set of six fiberglass hoops at Amazon) that you cover with blanket row covers (such as this 10 ft x 30 ft floating row cover also at Amazon).

Such a mini DIY hoop house can be used on vegetable beds or raised beds to help seedlings get off to a great start in a protected environment.

Quick-Cropping Vegetables to Plant in November

1. Red-Leaf Lettuce

There is a great selection of cold-hardy red-leafed lettuces that can provide attractive harvests of leaves throughout the colder months. Another reason to consider red-leaved lettuces is that they have a milder, nuttier, and slightly more bitter taste than usual green-leaved lettuce varieties.

When picking lettuce varieties for November, the two key considerations are ensuring they are cold-hardy and mature quickly. A range of around 25-45 days means fast cut-and-come-again harvests. But there will still be time to harvest lettuce heads if you desire.

Some of the best cold-hardy red-leaf lettuce varieties include 'New Red Fire', 'Merlot', and 'Red Sails'. Despite their tolerance for colder temperatures, they still prefer growing in an unheated greenhouse, under a hoop tunnel, or in a cold frame in colder climates, just to protect them from prolonged freezes.

Buy Lettuce 'New Red Fire' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Lettuce 'Red Sails' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Lettuce 'Merlot' seeds at Amazon

2. Mustards

Winter mustards make ideal vegetables to plant in November for peppery harvests of leaves to spice up cold-weather plates, whether enjoyed raw or cooked. There are a plethora of hardy mustards you can sow this month directly into the vegetable garden, with some even capable of surviving frosts and snow.

Some of the best mustards to sow in November include the very hardy 'Ruby Streaks', 'Green Wave', and 'Red Giant'. Mustards are fast-growing vegetables that can be harvested as a cut-and-come-again crop in only 25 days from sowing, while it takes only 45-50 days for the plants to reach maturity.

Sow seeds a quarter-inch deep in rows spaced 18 inches apart. While they are tolerant of cold, growing them under row covers or tunnels helps to prevent damage from pests, including birds that may peck at the leaves when food is scarce during the winter.

Buy Mustard 'Ruby Streaks' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Mustard 'Red Giant' seeds at True Leaf Market

Buy Mustard 'Green Wave' seeds at Amazon

3. Corn Salad

A fantastic and often under-appreciated crop for winter, corn salad is a mild-tasting salad leaf with a buttery texture and a slightly nutty flavor. Also known as lamb's lettuce or mache, it can be used in salads, either alone or mixed with other leaves for a tasty mix, or used as a garnish on winter dishes.

Corn salad is very cold-hardy and can survive frosts and snow to provide pickings even deep into winter. You can sow corn salad under cover in many climates in November, while those with very cold winters should see it as a vegetable to grow in a greenhouse in the fall.

Sow seeds outdoors directly into their growing position in fertile, well-draining soil. They only need to be covered with a light layer of soil and kept moist, without being waterlogged.

Harvest corn salad as a cut-and-come-again crop, which can start around a month after sowing the seeds. Simply snip leaves from the plant with a pair of garden snips or scissors as and when required, and you should get many harvests throughout winter and into spring.

You can get corn salad seeds at Amazon to sow this month.

4. Spinach

Spinach leaves are packed with vitamins, minerals, and nutrients, and you can get great harvests of this nutritious vegetable by sowing seeds this month.

If you want to grow spinach this month, look for cold-hardy varieties that have a fast days to maturity. The likes of 'Giant Winter' and 'Perpetual' are renowned for their hardiness and thrive in cooler temperatures of 30-60°F. Such varieties can provide harvests of baby leaves within a few weeks, or take 45-50 days to reach full maturity.

Spinach can grow in beds, raised garden beds, or you can even grow spinach in pots indoors during the colder months. Sow seeds around an inch deep and cover lightly. Thin the seedlings as they appear to around four inches apart, and keep the soil moist.

Start harvesting spinach once the leaves get large enough to use. Regularly picking the largest, outer leaves allows younger ones to grow on and promotes the development of new leaves for future harvests.

Get Spinach 'Winter Giant' seeds at True Leaf Market

Get Perpetual Spinach seeds at Amazon

Longer-Term Vegetables to Plant in November

5. Garlic

Garlic is one of the easiest and best vegetables to plant in November; planting garlic is as simple as pushing the cloves into the soil. Indeed, the main thing to remember is that you plant it the right way up (hint: the pointy end should be upwards).

You can plant hardneck or softneck garlic in the fall, though hardneck varieties are hardier and most suited to the coldest winters. Hardneck garlic does need exposure to the winter cold for the bulb to split, and you can’t plant it in spring like softneck can be. Consider your climate when picking the best type of garlic for you.

To grow garlic, the crop wants a sunny spot with well-draining soil, with compost or well-rotted manure added before planting. Separate the head of garlic into individual cloves and plant each one six inches apart, with the tip just showing above the soil surface.

Garlic can take 8-10 months from planting in the fall to harvesting in the summer. But the wait is well worth it, so try to resist harvesting garlic until the leaves turn yellow and die back naturally.

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Burpee

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at True Leaf Market

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Amazon

Shop garlic bulbs to plant at Walmart

6. Fava Beans

Fava beans, or broad beans, are not always the most popular crop, but a staple in many a vegetable garden. I have certainly grown them every year, and you can plant fava beans in the fall or spring for an earlier harvest of mild, nutty, and earthy beans in spring.

Whether you start growing fava beans in the fall often depends on soil type and whether your garden gets many visitors during the winter. Sowing is not ideal in heavy soils, as the beans can rot in sodden ground, while rodents can eat the beans as they search for food in winter.

However, if you can provide good conditions for fava beans, pick a variety suited to fall sowings. And the undisputed top pick for that is 'Aquadulce', a cold-hardy variety that you can rely on for great fava bean harvests come spring.

Sow the beans into two-inch deep drills, sowing them on their edge to reduce the risk of them rotting due to water sitting on the beans in the ground.

You can get 'Aquadulce' fava beans at Amazon to plant this month.

7. Overwintering Onions

There is still time to plant onions at the start of November, and these overwintering crops can provide an early harvest next year compared to spring-planted onions. By planting a combination of both, you can get a great and long crop of onions to enjoy.

Not all types of onions are suitable for overwintering, so look out for varieties marked as ideal for fall planting. Hardy varieties like 'Radar', 'Red Baron', 'Yellow Stuttgarter' or 'Senshu Yellow' are classic overwintering onions to choose from, and ones I have all grown successfully from fall plantings in the past.

Push the sets into the soil with the flat root end down and the pointed end facing up. It is advisable to cover the onions with row covers or horticultural fleece until the crop has developed roots. This is because birds are known to pull newly-planted onion sets out of the ground.

Get 'Red Baron' onion sets for planting at Amazon

Get 'Yellow Stuttgarter' onion sets for planting at Amazon

If you also want to grow fruit as well as vegetables in your productive garden, November can be a time to plant fruit trees. Our guide to some of the best fruit trees to plant in fall highlights seven different types you can plant in fall, when you can choose between planting container-grown or bare-root plants in your yard.

Shop Products to Protect Vegetable Seedlings

Fall can feel quite overwhelming for us gardeners. There's so much to do before the frostiest temperatures arrive, and it can be hard to know what to prioritize. If you find yourself stretched for time, don't fret. I asked two professional gardeners what the single most important task is to do this month, and they both said one thing: November mulching.

Mulching is important for many reasons. It provides plants with insulation for winter, but it can also do a lot for soil health. The latter is what the experts highlighted when discussing November mulching. This month provides a last opportunity to cover bare soil with a layer of organic matter to protect it from winter damage, including erosion. The good news is that materials are abundant for mulching at this time of year.

Here's what the experts say about the importance of November mulching, plus some tips on how to do it correctly before the depths of winter arrive.

Why is November Mulching Vital for Soil Health?

You may already be aware of how mulching can protect plants from frost, as it insulates plant roots and retains moisture to keep them healthy through winter. But the experts highlight the importance of November mulching as the last chance in the year to protect the health of your soil.

'Mulch your beds to prevent erosion of your soil,' says Anna Hackman, a Rutgers Master Gardener and owner at The Naked Botanical.

The wet and windy conditions of winter can impact the structure of your soil, eroding it, as Anna notes. Freeze-thaw cycles can likewise break down soil structure, and exposed topsoil is even susceptible to washing away.

This isn't good news for your plants, as it can remove essential plant nutrients, hinder soil quality, and stunt growth. It may also expose plant roots to the elements, risking issues of wind rock, root rot, and other damage.

'I never leave any soil uncovered going into the winter for this reason,' Anna says.

'November mulching also adds nutrients to the soil as it breaks down over the winter, and gives beneficial insects a place to overwinter so they are ready for the spring,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

Pro Gardeners' Tips on Mulching in November

There are lots of fall mulching materials readily available in November, from fallen leaves to homemade compost.

'If you have trees, you have free mulch,' says Lindsey. 'Pile a bunch of leaves in a barrel and chop them up with the weed trimmer or go over piles with your lawn mower. You can then add three or four inches of your leaf mulch on your beds.'

'You can also use wood mulch, straw, pine needles, or old plant material,' says Anna. Just make sure any plant material you use isn't diseased, which should be disposed of.

A word of warning when November mulching. 'Don't let the mulch get overly wet and clumpy. This can lead to mold or fungal issues in your soil,' says Lindsey.

There are other tools and materials to help you mulch and protect your plants in late fall. For example, you can use mulching mats, like this burlap sheet from Walmart and these recycled rubber mulch mats from Amazon.

Sometimes you just desire more for your garden, whether it is more blooms, more movement, or more drama. If your simple wish is for more plants, November is an ideal time to propagate plants and reward yourself with new shrubs and perennials to enhance your flowering displays for years to come.

Most people only think of hardwood cuttings in late fall. True, it is an ideal time to use this convenient and low-maintenance method to propagate new shrubs for your yard. However, you can also take root cuttings of herbaceous perennials to bolster flower beds and containers next year.

This guide to plants to propagate in November includes both hardwood cuttings and root cuttings. It includes simple steps to follow to take plant cuttings successfully, and you can reap the rewards of your hard work. There is no reason not to add taking cuttings to your fall gardening checklist if you want more plants, plus you get these new additions for free.

1. Currants

November is an ideal time to take hardwood cuttings of currant bushes, which can include blackcurrants, redcurrants, and whitecurrants. When you grow currants, they need pruning during dormancy, from November onwards, and it is also a perfect time to grow more plants to boost your future harvests.

Pick healthy one-year-old shoots and trim off the soft tips as you process the stems into sections, each 12 inches long. Make a sloping cut at the top, above a bud, and a horizontal one at the bottom, below a bud.

You can dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone to increase the success rate, but this is not always essential, as currants root easily. One example of such a product to use is this rooting hormone powder at Amazon.

Insert the cuttings into a deep pot filled with well-draining potting soil, or into a slit trench in the soil. Cuttings in pots are kept in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse and kept moist, ensuring the soil doesn't dry out.

2. Dogwood

If you aspire for more glowing stems to brighten up any winter garden, add dogwood to your plants to propagate in November. Growing dogwoods is a great way to enjoy vibrant stems in shades of red, orange, or yellow during the colder months.

You can take softwood cuttings of dogwoods in summer, or hardwood cuttings in November. The latter may be slower than softwood or semi-ripe cuttings, but they don't need as much attention. If you do wonder what to do with dogwoods in the fall, propagating is well worth considering, along with mulching them.

Choose pencil-thick stems that are firm but not hard, and cut them into 6-12-inch sections, with a slanting cut at the top and a straight one at the bottom.

Dogwood cuttings can be put into containers, but they are tough shrubs that will root well in an outside trench a little shallower than the depth of the cutting. Adding some horticultural grit or coarse sand (like this horticultural sand on Walmart) to the base of the trench helps prevent water from accumulating around the cuttings.

Space each cutting at least four inches apart and with only a few inches above the ground. Keep them moist in dry weather, and leave them until next fall.

3. Roses

If you ask around, it appears that all gardeners love growing and caring for roses. It is easy to understand why, as there are so many types of cultivars of roses that there can be one out there for any taste.

When you do find a rose variety that you adore, the best way to get an exact clone of it is to take rose cuttings and have more plants to enjoy for free. As roses are so versatile, you can take softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer or hardwood cuttings in fall. As mentioned above, hardwood cuttings take longer but make an ideal method if you didn't propagate your roses earlier in the season.

It is advisable to only take cuttings of healthy, vigorous roses, as opposed to spindly ones that show signs of struggling with pests or diseases. Select a healthy stem with the thickness of a pencil, and cut it into 6-8-inch sections.

After trimming the cutting at the top and bottom, while always remembering to cut above and below a bud, dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone powder or gel. Then place the cutting into a trench, with a third of it above the soil, with sand or grit to boost drainage. And keep each cutting at least six inches apart.

Not all the cuttings will survive to planting out in a year. To give them the best chance of success, keep the area weed-free and occasionally water the cuttings to prevent the soil from drying out. A soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon to give quick, accurate results) can be beneficial for checking moisture levels and ensuring the soil stays moist during summer.

4. Mock Orange

A mock orange (also known as philadelphus) is so-called for the glorious citrus aroma of the plant's blossom, and the tall shrub is one of the best fragrant flowers you can add to a space. The majority of mock orange varieties produce white flowers in late spring and early summer, and you get ones with different tints on the petals.

As they are cold-hardy, dependable, and wonderfully scented, it is understandable if you want more than one for your backyard ideas. And a great way to do that and get more, without having to pay for a new plant, is to take hardwood cuttings during dormancy.

Just as with other plants on this list, pick healthy pencil-thick shoots and cut them horizontally at the bottom and slanted at the top. With philadelphus, it is advisable to put the cutting into a container filled with compost for cuttings, pushing it two-thirds down into the compost. An ideal mix is something like this premium potting mix at Amazon, formulated for seedlings and cuttings.

This container can be kept in a cold frame until next fall. Just remember to closely monitor the cutting to keep it well-watered and prevent it from drying out.

5. Phlox

Phlox is a popular herbaceous perennial plant for bringing color and joy to flower beds in the summer. It is also a great plant for pollinators, with butterflies and bees attracted to its vibrant blooms.

If you grow phlox and want more plants, they are suitable for propagation in the late fall using a technique of taking root cuttings. This method is ideal for plants with fleshy roots, and allows gardeners to take many cuttings from one plant.

The first step is to carefully dig the plant up when it is dormant and wash the soil from the roots. Phlox has thinner roots, but cut a long section of healthy root and then, with a sharp knife, slice these into 3-5 inch sections.

Fill a seed tray with cutting compost. Lay the sections of roots horizontally on the surface and push them down to make good contact with the soil. Cover the compost with a thin layer of grit and place the tray in a water bath to soak up water without disturbing the surface of the tray.

Continue to keep the soil moist by sitting it in a water bath, and pot up individual cuttings once they start developing a few sets of leaves.

6. Verbascum

Verbascum, also known as mullein, is adored for bright spikes of blooms in summer. You can also propagate verbascum varieties from root cuttings, but the method differs slightly from above. This is because verbascum has a thicker root than phlox.

For starters, dig up the plant and clean as much soil as possible from around the rootball. Then, for this technique, you select some fleshy roots to act as cutting material. Like hardwood cuttings, aim for them to be around the thickness of a pencil, and cut them back close to the crown of the plant.

Cut the length of the root into sections 2-4 inches long, with a horizontal cut at the top and an angled cut at the bottom (which is opposite to hardwood cuttings). At this point, be very careful with your cuttings, as you need to make sure the horizontal cut is at the end of the root section that was closest to the crown of the parent plant.

Insert the roots into pots filled with cutting compost, so the angled cut is at the bottom and the top end is flush with the surface. Again, it is vital to get them the right way up; otherwise, the cutting won't sprout.

Cover the compost with a thin layer of grit, and keep the soil moist to encourage the cutting to develop leaves.

7. Hardy Geraniums

Hardy geraniums are one of the best plants to propagate in November. They're vigorous plants that grow quickly and profusely. They are reliable, low-maintenance, and long-flowering perennials to have in borders. Indeed, the biggest issue with hardy geraniums (or cranesbills as they are also known) is that they sometimes need regular cutting back to control them.

When you grow hardy geraniums and want more, there are various ways to do this. You can divide hardy geraniums, take stem cuttings in spring or summer, or opt for root cuttings in the fall. Taking root cuttings is suitable for any hardy geranium varieties, and you follow the same method as verbascum, as they have thicker, fleshier roots than phlox.

Use a sharp knife to cut roots into 2-4 inch pieces, cutting them horizontally at the top and angled at the bottom as outlined above. The sections can be put in containers filled with compost, or you can use module trays, like these nursery module trays at Walmart, which can make potting up cuttings after they sprout a bit less fiddly.

The cuttings should develop a good root system by next fall, enabling them to be planted outdoors, and the resulting plants will start flowering the following year.

If you still have that burning desire to be proactive with planning next year's borders, there are flowers you can plant in November to bolster your beds with more blooms in spring and summer next year.

Popular favorites like sweet peas and lupines can be started from seed this month indoors, while spring bulbs such as tulips and alliums can be planted for glorious displays.

If you have space and inclination to start flower seeds indoors in the fall, the reward will be strong plants come spring and earlier displays of blooms.

No matter what my yard looks like, I can always rely on my containers to put on a dazzling display that infuses a seasonal feel to my patio and front door. As the temperatures start to take a turn once again, I'm seeking inspiration to transition fall containers to winter.

If you're also a keen container gardener, I promise that extending your display by making seasonal adjustments will bring joy and brighten up your yard for the darkest months. It's quite easy to transition containers, too. Many fall plants can remain through winter, while others will need to be swapped out. You can also add festive embellishments for the holidays.

With so many possibilities to consider, I decided to speak to garden designers. Here, they share their favorite ideas to transition fall containers to winter.

5 Ways to Transition Fall Containers to Winter

Even if you've recently transitioned summer hanging baskets to fall, these ideas will spruce up your containers for the frostiest season, so you have color and interest for the harshest months of the year.

1. Choose Evergreens for Lasting Structure

The key to achieving a beautiful winter garden is choosing frost-hardy plants that can withstand the coldest temperatures.

For garden designer Lee Miller, it's all about carefully selecting some reliable evergreens for containers.

'When I transition fall containers to winter, I tend to keep the plants which are cold-hardy for the backbone of the arrangement,' she says. 'These include dwarf evergreen shrubs, such as dwarf Alberta spruce, juniper, and boxwood.'

These shrubs for containers will ensure there is interest right through the winter season, and they'll look particularly beautiful when touched by frost.

You can buy Dwarf Alberta Spruce from Fast Growing Trees

See the range of juniper at Nature Hills

See the range of boxwood at Nature Hills

2. Use Seasonal Stems

When you transition fall containers to winter, it doesn't have to be all about living plants. You can also carefully arrange festive stems and the best foliage for Christmas decor.

'For a wintery touch, I like to add fresh cuttings of holly, winterberry, cedar, juniper, or pine around the perimeter of pots,' Lee describes. 'For a further touch of elegance, red twig dogwood or curly willow branches function as vertical thrillers.'

When taking stem cuttings, make sure to use essential pruning tools. These Fiskars bypass pruners from Amazon will help make clean, sharp cuts.

'This is a low-maintenance option, and you can also add pinecones,' says Lee.

'Fill your container with soil or sand to anchor the arrangement, and have fun combining the different elements for a wonderful winter display,' she adds.

3. Opt for Winter Blooming Plants

While many of the best fall flowers for pots are frost hardy and will last into winter, those less hardy are likely to die back soon.

In this case, you should swap them for the best winter plants for pots, including those that flower in the coldest of temperatures.

'I like to use flowering kale and cabbage, combined with the different colors of heucheras,' Lee suggests.

Other winter flowers for pots include heather (plants available on Amazon) and winter pansies (plants available on Amazon). Hellebores are also a great option for some elegant blooms.

You can likewise use the plants to create a winter window box.

4. Swap Pots for Frost-Resistant Materials

A bit more of a practical idea on this list of ideas to transition fall containers to winter, but equally one that will enhance your winter container display, considering the materials of your pots.

'I recommend using frost-resistant fiber cement planters (like these from Amazon),' says Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden Masterclass.

'If you only have non-frost-resistant or breakable containers, I recommend bringing them to a sheltered spot so they don't get damaged. I've seen winds knock over some beautiful heavy pots.'

Other containers suited to frosty conditions include barrel planters (like these from Amazon), which also bring a rustic feel to winter displays.

5. Dress Up Containers for Christmas

Alongside using festive stems, why not use ornaments and embellishments for a Christmas pot?

'You can add some sparkle to your container by using seasonal picks from your local craft store,' says Laura.

Things like these wreath fillers (from Amazon) can easily be inserted into winter containers.

'You can even add outdoor fairy lights,' Lee suggests.

Shop for waterproof, outdoor fairy lights on Amazon to add to your containers.

FAQs

Do My Winter Containers Need Watering?

Yes, winter containers will still need watering, though much less frequently than summer containers. Plants growing in containers are more susceptible to drying out quickly. However, you should be careful not to overwater, especially when frost is forecast. This can cause oversaturation, rot, or cause roots to freeze. Our guide to watering plants before frost has more information.

There's still time to plant container plants that will bloom by Christmas, too. Use the below container gardening essentials to make your efforts a success:

I've collected quite a few terracotta pots this year, as I worked on extending my container garden. Now that we've reached fall, I'm left wondering how best to protect them to avoid any damage from frost. Luckily, just a few simple tricks can help protect pots and planters from frost, so they make it through to spring unscathed.

If you also have a container garden full of precious pots and planters, it's wise to take some measures to ensure freezing temperatures don't crack and shatter them. Of course, it's likewise important to protect container plants from winter weather, but neglecting the vessel itself can result in damage that harms both pot and plant.

Here, I've outlined three easy, reliable, and affordable ways to protect pots and planters from frost.

3 Ways to Protect Pots and Planters From Frost

You'll find that certain types of pots and planters are more resilient to frost than others. However, if you have clay or ceramic pots, these tend to be the most susceptible to damage. This is often because the pots absorb water which expands, freezes, and cracks the pots. Likewise, those with narrow necks may crack when soil on the inside freezes. The below methods to protect pots and planters from frost will help prevent damage over the winter season:

1. Elevate Pots Above Cold Surfaces

This is the first thing I do when protecting pots and planters from frost. By simply lifting them off the ground, you reduce the likelihood of them cracking.

There are a few reasons for this. Hard, cold surfaces, like slabs on a patio, tend to draw heat away from pots. Plus, the pot sitting directly on a cold surface creates an airtight environment, making it easier for moisture to become trapped inside the pot.

When moisture in the pot and soil expands and freezes, it can cause the planter to crack.

But using something like pot feet (from Amazon) stops this from happening – a key tool to put at the bottom of a planter for drainage.

Elevating your pots and planters above cold surfaces also allows for more air circulation (so long as they have the all-important drainage holes). In turn, this aids moisture and temperature management.

You can also use bricks and unused tiles to lift your pots. Just make sure the drainage hole is not covered.

2. Wrap Pots for Insulation

The key to protecting pots and planters from frost is providing sufficient insulation, and wrapping potted plants for winter is an easy way to do this.

You can use a range of materials for this, including burlap, bubble wrap (available at Walmart), and frost cloths (available on Amazon).

Wrapping the pot will trap heat, preventing rapid temperature changes like freezing and thawing, which can cause cracking and breaking.

Not only this, but it can prevent excess moisture from being absorbed by porous pots and planters, reducing the risk of moisture expansion and freezing.

3. Move Them Somewhere Warm

This method to protect pots and planters from frost doesn't require any extra tools. All you need to do is locate a warmer environment for your pots to live during the winter season.

You can opt to place containers in a garage if you don't have any plants growing in them over winter, or move them to a greenhouse for winter, providing a warmer environment to help your potted plants get through the coldest months. For smaller pots, a cold frame (like this cold frame from Amazon) will also provide frost protection.

If, like me, you don't have suitable space to bring pots indoors, you can opt for placing pots and planters up against a house wall. The heat given off by the wall will provide some extra warmth.

FAQs

How Can I Repurpose a Cracked Terracotta Pot?

If you have a cracked terracotta pot (often damaged from frosty temperatures over winter), don't be too quick to discard it. There are plenty of ways to reuse old planters in the garden. For example, you can use broken pieces of clay pots for slug control, or use them in a rock garden. You can also turn them upside down to create a bee watering station.

Fall and winter are great times to stock up on new pots and planters for your garden, too. Below are some of our top picks of the best large planters and pots for a container garden refresh next year:

November marks the end of the fall and is a transitional period into winter. It is a month when many gardens get the first frosts, which kill back summer-flowering plants, and deciduous trees and shrubs enter dormancy. As with any month in the gardening calendar, there is work to do, so let's take a look at some plants to prune in November.

There is no rush to get out with the pruning tools and get all the winter pruning done straight away, though. Many perennials curtailed by frosts offer benefits to wildlife, or can still provide beauty in a winter garden, while lots of shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring.

Then there are those plants that actively benefit from being pruned this month – those are the ones I focus on here, and you should add them to a fall gardening checklist. The list includes fruit bushes that reward your TLC with bumper crops, shrubs that require protection through trimming, and perennials that need pruning in November to stay healthy.

Plants to Prune in November

I spent many years working in large historic public and private gardens. November was a stunning month, as the garden displayed real beauty with the changing seasons, but it was always a busy time with lots of clearing, tidying, and trimming on the to-do list. The plants here were on those lists as flower beds, vegetable gardens, kitchen gardens, and glasshouses were given some TLC.

1. Blueberries

Blueberries are a fantastic soft fruit bush to grow, and one I have grown for many years, both in productive gardens I worked in and at home, where I grow blueberries in pots. Not only are the plants an easy superfood to grow, but once established and happy, they can give bumper harvests of fruits rich in vitamins and antioxidants.

Correct pruning is one of the key aspects to get right for a blueberry bush to fruit successfully, along with growing in ericaceous soil and fertilizing annually. Thankfully, knowing how and when to prune blueberries is not daunting.

Blueberries are pruned during dormancy, and the window to trim opens in November and runs until March.

As for how to prune blueberries, they fruit on old wood that peaks at two or three years old, and then their productivity fades. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches, then focus on trimming out a third of the oldest stems – these will be darker in color than younger, more productive branches.

To keep bushes happy, fertilize blueberries with a feed especially designed for acid-loving plants in the spring, such as this acid mix all-natural fertilizer, available at Amazon.

2. Currants

There are different types of currants to grow, including blackcurrants, whitecurrants, redcurrants, and more. While it may sound complicated, as there are different pruning techniques for certain types, they are all pruned during their dormancy, from November until late winter.

I have pruned many types of currants over the years, and am confident in telling you the pruning methods are simple, so I will outline the basic principles and differences below:

• For all currant bushes, start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with any that cross or rub with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or loppers
• To prune blackcurrants, the focus is on removing a third of the oldest wood each year, which will have the darkest bark, as well as any weak stems.
• To prune redcurrants and whitecurrants, it is similar to pruning gooseberries. Remove any branches older than three years, and then trim all side-shoots from the rest of the stems back to two buds.

3. Roses

Hold fire, this isn't a call to arms to head out and properly prune roses. Instead, it is a note to lightly trim shrub and bush roses to prevent wind rock if you have roses growing in windy or exposed sites.

What is wind rock? It is a term used to describe how strong winds can damage roots and even dislodge plants from the soil by causing them to rock back and forth repeatedly. Pruning to prevent wind rock is advisable for any newly planted roses, tall shrubs, and those likely to be subjected to winter gales.

From someone who worked in one particular exposed northern garden that was hit with strong winds and featured many roses, this form of trimming comes highly recommended.

It can be quick and simple to keep roses safe. Just head out with your pruning tools after flowering and cut all the stems back by between a third and a half. That is all required; then wait to do your routine pruning in late winter or early spring.

4. Peonies

Herbaceous peonies should be cut back after the first fall frosts to keep them healthy and ensure they put on a spectacular display of big, blousy blooms again next year. Depending on your climate, the first frosts will hit the foliage and cause it to die back in October or November, so it is time to cut back peonies.

You cut back peonies in the fall to prevent diseases that commonly occur when growing peonies, which are capable of overwintering on plant debris to strike again come spring. Cutting back and clearing all the old foliage removes any bacteria or infections, so nothing will impact your peonies when they regrow once the temperatures warm.

It is as simple as cutting your herbaceous peonies down to an inch above the ground and clearing away the old material. Disease-free foliage can be used to make compost, but any showing signs of powdery mildew, blight, or mold should be bagged up and disposed of.

This method of trimming is only for herbaceous peonies. If you are growing tree peonies, as they should be pruned in the spring.

5. Grapes

When you grow grapes, heavy winter pruning helps control and rejuvenate the vines, giving you a solid harvest the following year rather than a mass of smaller, unripe fruits. You prune grape vines during their dormancy period, which starts in November, and it needs to be done before the sap starts flowing.

If you grow grape vines indoors, such as in a greenhouse, it is a task best done sooner rather than later once the vines drop the last of their leaves and enter dormancy. I grew grapes in a greenhouse and a large orangery in a historic garden, and November was when we did the pruning each year.

Training grape vines is a very detailed job. However, to prune established grape vines, remove any diseased or damaged stems, and cut the side shoots off the main canes down to two or three strong buds.

It might feel excessive to prune so hard, but grapes are fast-growing climbing vines, and they produce fruit on the new growth prompted by the winter trimming.

6. Blackberry Lily

The blackberry lily (Iris domestica) is also known as the leopard lily or leopard flower, and, despite the name, it is a species of iris rather than a lily. It is a spectacular perennial, with its bowl-shaped orange blooms covered in red spots, but it has a few major issues, making it a perennial you want to cut back in the fall.

The first is to maintain its health. Like many irises, it is susceptible to iris borers, which feed on the rhizomes and overwinter on the plant's foliage. It is also very susceptible to fungal diseases, and those spores will also overwinter on any material left standing over the colder months.

Also, the blackberry lily is an invasive plant in the northern and eastern areas of the US. As a renowned self-seeding flower, cutting any plants you have growing back prevents them from spreading outside the confines of your garden and troubling native species.

7. Hostas

If you haven't already, take some time to cut back your hostas this month. It's a quick and straightforward task that provides two major benefits.

Simply put, hostas don't look attractive once the frost kills their foliage. The once lush green leaves, which hostas are grown for, turn yellow and slimy; they are certainly not visually appealing in flower beds or containers.

I worked in one large garden where masses of hostas were growing, and cutting them back in the fall helped avoid the unsightly view of a blanket of slimy foliage covering the soil.

Another reason to prune them this month is that dying foliage can become a breeding ground for pests and diseases. Slugs and snails are common problems when growing hostas, and they can overwinter their eggs in the foliage left on the ground over winter.

Decaying fungi can also overwinter bacteria and fungal spores, which can infect new growth in spring and spread diseases throughout the garden.

Shop Pruning Tools

I also previously highlighted a selection of fruit trees, shrubs, and perennials that may need pruning in November in another piece 12 months ago. All of the inclusions in that first article on plants to prune in November still deserve a place on your to-do list of fall gardening jobs, alongside these popular garden favorites that need pruning before winter arrives. Don't forget to add all these plants to your gardening plans.

A plant caddy offers year-round functionality, but come the fall, it will become vital in helping you protect container plants from the damaging winter cold. This is because plant caddies with wheels allow you to relocate even heavy pots without placing lots of stress on your back.

If you live in colder climates, late fall becomes a time to focus on protecting container plants from winter weather. As plants in pots are more vulnerable to frosts, moving them indoors to a protected position is critical. To help make life easier, I noticed this set of two wooden plant caddies in the Wayfair sale, currently marked down 48% to $33.99.

Rather than manually lifting and carrying all the plants in your container garden one by one, these plant caddies help you relocate them with ease. But they aren’t just useful in the fall, as the Wayfair wooden plant caddies offer benefits throughout the year, too.

Benefits of the Wayfair Wooden Plant Caddies

Let's start with the construction. These Wayfair wooden plant caddies are constructed of acacia hardwood on top of a strong iron frame. It means they are sturdy and can withstand weight, capable of being loaded with up to 264 pounds.

That makes them capable of moving compact trees growing in pots, or being loaded with multiple small containers when bringing plants indoors in November ahead of the frosts.

Plant caddies aren't solely for moving plants in winter, though. Any container plants can be shifted to follow the sunlight, ensuring they get the best light conditions indoors or outdoors throughout the year.

This will be particularly beneficial if you grow fruit trees in pots, for example, and want to provide them with adequate sunlight to fruit successfully. Though any sun-loving container plants will perform best when moved into the sunniest spot in your backyard.

These Wayfair wooden plant caddies are versatile for use indoors or outdoors. Their polyurethane wheels will roll smoothly over any surface, from lawn to carpet, and can be locked into place to prevent unwanted movement.

The wooden design also fits many design aesthetics, and raising container plants off the floor prevents moisture or dirt from damaging hardwood, tile, or laminate floors.

But these Wayfair wooden plant caddies will come into their own if you want to overwinter plants indoors. They allow gardeners to move plants without lifting and carrying them. Plants that live on them year-round can be rolled into position, while other pots can be put onto a spare caddy to move, taking away the need to lug containers across the yard.

It means less bending and carrying, which reduces the potential risk of back strain, and also prevents scratches from dragging heavy pots around while trying to protect plants from frost. If you do move your containers around during the year, a plant caddy will certainly help make things easier.

'A back saver' – What Shoppers Say About the Wayfair Wooden Plant Caddies

A frequent phrase used to describe Wayfair wooden plant caddies is 'very sturdy', as shoppers praise the products for making it easier to move heavy plants.

One shopper proclaimed the caddies as 'true back savers' as it meant they don't need to 'bend awkwardly while carrying a heavy planter'.

'We live in a hurricane-prone area and must move all of our plants indoors during tropical weather,' says another purchaser. 'I highly recommend them if you know you're going to have to move your heavy plants.'

'[I] needed some plant caddies for a couple of plants since the sun conditions change a lot on my patio,' notes another shopper. 'Being able to wheel the larger plants is so helpful for ensuring the full sun plants get all of the sun they need.'

And one shopper claims: 'I love my new rolling planter caddies. I bought two new ceramic pots - one is 50 pounds and the other is 85 pounds. Both are a perfect size.'

Shoppers mentioned using the Wayfair wooden plant caddies to move potted lemon trees, a lime tree in a pot, and a fir tree in a container ahead of cold weather. They praised the caddies for their 'super solid construction' and mentioned that the wheels 'roll smoothly' during use.

A plant caddy may be handy if you are growing shrubs in containers and need to relocate them at different times of year. You can grow shrubs in lots of sizes, shapes, and colors in pots, from topiary plants to flowering shrubs that attract pollinators to a space.

However, any shrubs in containers will not be as hardy as when planted in the ground. Always bear that in mind to avoid making any container gardening mistakes that risk killing your plants in winter.

If you don't have space to overwinter tender plants indoors, you may consider protecting containers with winter pot covers. For example, these frost protection covers at Amazon can be used on pots up to 20 inches deep and 17 inches wide.

Shop Plant Caddies

It's hard to believe October is already coming to a close, and as November starts, us gardeners are wary of impending frost. But, there's still time to tick off one important task for this month: flowers to sow in October.

Many of these blooms land on the list of flowers to sow in fall, and the truth is, you can get away with planting them in early November. But, for the best results, getting them sown sooner rather than later is ideal.

Sowing these flowers now will allow plenty of time for the seeds to establish, offering earlier blooms come spring. Many of them also require an essential cold period, so sowing them now is the perfect thing to add to your fall gardening checklist.

7 Flowers to Sow in October

Many of these flowers to sow in October are annuals, and you can plant them both now and in spring for an extended display. Others are perennials, and sowing them this month will reward you with returning blooms every year, once established.

1. Nigella

You can grow nigella by sowing seeds in the fall before frost.

It's a hardy annual across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 11. In the majority of climates, you can sow directly outdoors this month. The seeds will then overwinter and start sprouting in early spring.

However, in the harshest and wettest climates, it's best to protect nigella seedlings with methods to protect plants from frost. For example, with these cloches from Amazon.

Find nigella seeds at Walmart.

Find nigella seeds on Amazon.

2. Sweet Peas

If there's one spring flower to get a head start on in fall, it's growing sweet peas. This is especially true if you want early spring blooms.

Sweet pea varieties are generally hardy across US hardiness zone 2 to zone 10. When sown in the fall, it's best to sow seeds indoors or in a greenhouse. You'll need a seed starter tray (from Amazon) for this.

You can then plant out your sweet pea seedlings in spring, after the risk of hard frost has passed. It's best to first harden off seedlings before this to ensure robust growth.

Find sweet pea seeds at Burpee.

Find sweet pea seeds on Amazon.

3. Larkspur

Larkspur is one of the best self-seeding flowers, meaning you will only need to sow seeds once for returning blooms, as these annuals tend to disperse their own seed after flowering in late summer.

When sowing larkspur seeds in fall, you can sow them directly outdoors. The winter temperatures provide essential seed stratification to kickstart growth come spring, resulting in stronger plants.

These blooms are hardy across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 11 and prefer a sunny, sheltered position in a well-draining soil type. Bear in mind they can grow up to six feet (depending on variety), so a position at the back of a border is ideal.

Find larkspur seeds on Amazon.

4. Coneflowers

This is a perennial you can grow from seed and sowing in fall provides the perfect amount of time for cold stratification, germination, and root establishment.

Coneflowers can be sown directly outdoors in fall, best in a spot that is well-draining and sunny. They're best grown across US hardiness zones 3 to zone 9.

Sowing in fall will result in blooms in spring, though you should be aware that the plant won't have lots of blooms in its first year, rather focusing on establishing a strong root system. It should have a more impressive flower display in the following years.

Find coneflower seeds on Amazon.

Find coneflower seeds at Burpee.

5. Queen Anne's Lace

For a filler for borders and beds, consider sowing Queen Anne's Lace in fall.

This short-loved perennial (often treated like a biennial) is best sown directly outdoors this season for strong establishment and growth in spring. Plus, it develops a deep taproot that is not ideal for transplanting, so it's best sown outdoors in its final position.

The seeds should be planted six to 12 inches apart, just below the surface and covered with a thin layer of soil.

It's hardy across US hardiness zones 3 to zone 9, and you can expect to see blooms in its second year before it sets seed for another round of growth.

Find Queen Anne's Lace seeds on Amazon.

6. Nemesia

While you commonly purchase nemesia plants in flower in spring, you can also grow this tender perennial (commonly grown as an annual) from seed. It's best grown across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 10.

It's best to sow nemesia seeds in the fall under shelter, such as in cold frame or a greenhouse. This will protect from frost and allow germination for earlier blooming in spring, all the way to late summer.

When the seedlings appear, you should thin them out and keep them potted under shelter until the risk of late frost has passed.

Find nemesia seeds on Amazon.

7. Grape Hyacinth

Grape hyacinths (muscari) are some of the best miniature bulbs you can grow, but you can challenge yourself by growing them from seed. The best time to sow? Fall, before frost.

Something to be aware of is the fact that this is not a quick process. When growing grape hyacinth from seed, it could take two or three years before you see any blooms. Nevertheless, seeing those charming cone-shaped flowers will be a rewarding sight.

Sow the seeds directly in their final position, just below the surface and around three inches apart. You should make sure the soil is well-draining and slightly alkaline (use this soil test kit from Amazon to find out more about your soil's pH).

In spring, you will see just a few leaves as the seeds focus on developing a bulb in the first year. You don't need to cut these back at the end of the season; rather, wait until they have yellowed and died back naturally, providing the bulb with as much energy as possible.

Alternatively, plant grape hyacinth bulbs (from Amazon) this month for spring blooming next year.

When planting these flowers to sow in October, make sure to avoid seed sowing mistakes that could hinder your success with them. Likewise, stock up on the following seed sowing essentials to make this job more efficient:

There's no doubt that October is one of the busiest months for us gardeners. From pruning to planting and winterizing ahead of frost, there's a time pressure to get everything done before it becomes too cold and wet. But, Gravetye Manor's Head Gardener, Tom Coward, says there's one tool that helps him and his team work efficiently at this time of year: a bulb planter.

Gravetye Manor is a historic Victorian garden in the English countryside of Sussex. Throughout its flower borders and meadows, thousands of bulbs are planted for impressive spring color. Instead of struggling through the strenuous task of digging holes, Tom and his team use a bulb planter to cut perfect bulb-sized cut-outs for planting.

It's a tool to have in your bag for fall, but also one that will prove useful come spring. For Tom, it allows Gravetye's bulbs to be planted in just a fraction of the time, making this essential task a joy to do.

Why Tom Coward's Bulb Planter is an Essential for Fall

When it comes to bulbs to plant in October, Tom says a bulb planting tool is essential for time efficiency, less strain, and enjoyment.

'One of the most useful tools in the garden in fall is our Sneeboer bulb planter (available directly from Sneeboer),' he says.

'It punches out cores of soil so we can plant new bulbs into our wildflower meadows,' Tom adds.

At Gravetye Manor, an expansive wildflower meadow creates a carpet of color in spring. Planting bulbs en masse, such as planting bulbs for naturalizing, can be time-consuming and strenuous, but it creates an impactful display.

With a bulb planter that instantly cuts a hole in place, you can get bulbs in the ground much more quickly. Plus, those with depth markers can help you avoid bulb planting mistakes by creating the perfect dimensions for the bulbs you're planting.

'It is one of the most enjoyable tools to use at this time of year as we introduce new daffodils, crocus, and wild tulips,' Tom says.

Our Top 3 Bulb Planter Picks

If you're keen to incorporate some bulb planting trends in your yard next year, now is the time to get them planted. There are a few different types of bulb planting tools to help you get the job done, so we compiled our top three picks (and they're currently all on sale):

With your bulb planter in hand, you can try drift planting with bulbs. Just make sure to read up on how deep to plant the bulbs to ensure they establish nicely over winter for successful spring blooming.

The adage claims you are never more than six feet from a rat. Whether or not that is true depends on many environmental factors. However, rats are common in cities, towns, and rural areas, so you are likely to see a rat in your garden at one point or another.

The truth is that some plants attract rats more than others, so you may unknowingly be growing some that are secretly inviting rats into your yard. Unfortunately, fruits, vegetables, nuts, and bulbs will attract rodents, as do dense shrubs that provide food and shelter.

There are two choices to get rid of rats, or at least deter them. You can opt against having these tempting plants in your yard, or adopt a strategy of companion planting. By integrating plants that repel rats in your garden, you can still grow fruits, vegetables, nuts, and other plants, and reduce the potential risk of rats. This guide outlines the plants that attract rats to be aware of and expert-recommended alternative plants that deter rodents to grow instead.

5 Plants That Attract Rats and Expert Recommendations on What to Plant Instead

There are a few plants that can draw rats to your yard, but there are likewise those that help reduce potential rat problems. I chatted to some gardening experts who highlighted both plants to avoid and alternative plants that repel rats to grow instead.

1. Tulips

While adored for their ability to put on spectacular flowering displays, rats are attracted to spring bulbs as they look for food during the leaner winter months. Rats, along with other rodents, squirrels, or voles, can smell the bulbs in the ground, especially in freshly disturbed soil caused by gardeners planting spring bulbs in large numbers.

Ondrea Kidd, owner of Sowing Joy Farm, highlights tulips, crocuses and gladiolas as three of the worst bulbs that attract rats. She recommends looking for alternative spring bulbs or adding plants that repel rats around them, if you do pick any of the aforementioned ones.

'There's nothing worse than putting your heart, energy, and hope into planting a spring garden only to have it destroyed by rodents,' says Ondrea.

'If you enjoy planting those spring bulbs, a few great choices that will deter those pests are daffodils, allium, grape hyacinth, and fritillaria,' she adds. 'My favorites are the daffodils and alliums; each of these options comes in some really unique and fun varieties, so have fun with the colors and styles of these.'

Discover the range of daffodil bulbs to plant at Dutch Grown

Discover the range of daffodil bulbs to plant at Amazon

Discover the range of daffodil bulbs to plant at Walmart

2. Fruit Trees

Planting fruit trees and soft fruit bushes is a great way of getting a bounty of delicious fruit harvests year after year. But while you enjoy the tasty pickings, so can rats and other unwanted pests as they hunt for a reliable food source.

The likes of apples, pears, peaches, plums, and more are all likely to become attractive to rats, who see them as a consistent food source as well as a place for shelter. When it comes to planting fruit, lean more towards tart fruits, which are less attractive to rats.

'The sweeter the fruits, the more attractive they will be to the rats in your area,' claims Elizabeth Waddington, garden designer and writer at First Tunnels. 'Instead of planting a nut tree or a sweet apple or cherry tree, try a sour cherry, cooking apple variety or crapapple tree.'

'You can still get edible yields, but these don't attract rats as much because rats will prefer sweeter options,' she adds.

One example is a Montmorency cherry. It is a popular sour cherry to grow, as it produces medium-sized fruits great for baking, preserves, or juices. You can get a Montmorency cherry at Fast Growing Trees to add to your garden. Alternatively, you can opt for a Profusion crabapple tree, available at Amazon.

As well as being selective with what fruit you grow, you can add other plants that repel rats, such as daffodils, lavender, marigolds, or mint, around your fruit trees or bushes.

Other ways to reduce issues include spacing fruit trees adequately so the branches don’t touch and give rats clear passage from one tree to another. And to be regular with cleaning up any fallen fruit to reduce the risk of rodents taking your harvest before you get a chance to enjoy it.

3. Nut trees

Plants that attract rats include nuts, which are full of fat and a high-calorie food source. If you have walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, chestnuts, pecans, or macadamia nuts growing in your yard, the likelihood is that they will become a target for rats and other rodents.

In particular, late summer through fall, when most nuts are ready to harvest, is a time when rodents are on the lookout for high-energy food to eat now and stash for their upcoming nesting season.

They are attracted to both the nuts on the tree and on the ground, as Elizabeth Waddington hails the importance of making sure to 'harvest promptly' and also 'picking nuts off the ground to avoid attracting too many rats'.

Petar Ivanov, Fantastic Gardeners' gardening and plant expert, highlights flowering dogwoods (such as this live red dogwood tree at Amazon) or hawthorns as plants that repel rats and offer an alternative to nut trees. He claims: 'They provide berries and seasonal interest for birds without offering the dense protein sources rodents prefer.'

As well as harvesting nuts at the right time and picking fallen ones off the ground, good practice is to discard any unharvested nuts at the end of the season to stop rats from having a free food source

4. Sweet Vegetables

The unavoidable fact is that rats will be attracted to fruits and vegetables, whether they are in the vegetable garden or stored. The list of vegetables that attract rats is, unfortunately, long and includes root vegetables, corn, pumpkins, and legumes.

It is not a case of forgoing growing vegetables due to the risk of rats, but making smarter decisions on what you plant, and what you plant it with. Elizabeth Waddington suggests the notion of growing less sweet crops or 'more calorific ones' (including potatoes, sweet potatoes, corn, or parsnips) to divert the rats' attention elsewhere, or keeping these types of vegetables in a protected area.

'Keeping sweeter and higher-calorie crops in a polytunnel, fruit cage, or greenhouse can help to reduce the chance that rats will try to take your harvests,' she adds. 'Outdoors, if rats are a problem, crops in the cabbage family, for example, will be less attractive (especially if there are sweeter natural food sources around) and can give us abundant yields when protected from other pests.'

Another way to protect vegetables is companion planting. Growing strong-smelling aromatic herbs (like lavender, mint, or sage) or crops in the allium family (think garlic, onions, leeks, or chives) alongside susceptible vegetables will discourage rodents, along with other pests, from nibbling them.

Companion planting offers a great form of natural pest control to protect crops, plus you also get harvests from those plants.

5. Bamboo

There are some well-known issues with growing bamboo, primarily that you need to stop bamboo from spreading, but many gardeners may not know it as a plant that attracts rats.

The shrub can provide a dense shelter for rats to hide, rest, or even build a nest in, whether it is a large bamboo variety in a border or a smaller cultivar growing in a container garden. Some species also produce seeds that rats will eat, and the young shoots of bamboo are tender enough for rats to enjoy as a food source.

If you want an alternative screening plant to bamboo, dogwoods can provide lots of year-round interest. Such as a stunning pink flowering dogwood at Fast Growing Trees, which offers a lot of seasonal interest with pink blooms, red fall color, and checkered bark in winter.

To deter rodents from any flower beds, several perennials can be planted to keep rats away.

'If you are looking to build your garden full of great perennials that will deter pests, my favorites are peonies and astilbe,' says Ondrea Kidd. 'Many Mediterranean herbs are also a beautiful option. These include lavender, rosemary, and mints.'

FAQs

Do Lavender Plants Repel Rats?

Growing lavender can help repel rats and other pests. Lavender repels pests thanks to the strong aroma that comes from the essential oils contained in the plant; it is a scent that garden pests hate.

Do Coffee Grounds Repel Rats?

You can use coffee grounds on plants, but does it help with pests? Well, some gardeners claim the smell of coffee repels rats, but there is no concrete evidence that it does work effectively.

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One of the best flowers for companion planting is marigolds. You can grow marigolds from seed easily, and they are highly valuable. Not only are the bright flowers attractive, but marigolds keep lots of bugs away from more precious plants.

I have always planted marigolds in a vegetable garden as part of natural pest control, as the strong scent of French marigolds is effective against aphids, flies, flea beetles, thrips, tomato hornworm, squash bug, cucumber beetles, and many more.

You can get a bumper pack of French marigold seeds at Amazon to grow your own companion planting powerhouses.

Fall is one of the busiest times of year for us gardeners. We're rushing to tidy up after summer, give our plants some TLC ahead of winter, and ensure all our tools are stored properly. In ticking off these tasks, you may be making some detrimental fall yard clean-up mistakes that harm wildlife.

Whether it's removing all possible shelter for wildlife or using harmful cleaning materials and pesticides, there are a few things that could go wrong and hinder garden wildlife safety in fall and winter. At the same time, it is important to get essential tasks ticked off your fall gardening checklist, but you do need to keep in mind how tidying up can impact the wildlife garden aspects of your yard.

To make sure you avoid such fall yard clean-up mistakes, I've spoken to wildlife garden experts. Here, they share the most common errors made at this time of year and how to avoid them.

3 Fall Yard Clean-Up Mistakes That Harm Wildlife

Not only does over-tidying your yard harm hibernating wildlife, but failing to clean water sources and feeders can also be harmful, as well as using chemicals in your clean up efforts. Here's how to avoid these common fall gardening mistakes.

1. Forgetting to Clean Your Bird Bath

To help garden birds in winter, you need to ensure they can still find food and water in your yard. If these sources are not clean, however, it could cause harm in the form of bacteria.

'Dirty or stagnant water can spread disease among birds and mammals,' notes Peter Gros, wildlife expert and co-host of Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom.

It can, of course, be easy to neglect your bird bath in the midst of all the fall pruning you need to get done.

'In winter, when natural sources freeze, birds rely on accessible water for drinking and bathing. A shallow, clean birdbath, ideally with a small heater or refreshed daily, can make a huge difference to their survival,' says Mary Mack Gray, ornithologist at Birdbuddy.

Luckily, it's easy to clean your bird bath. You can even purchase products like this bird-safe bird bath cleaner from Amazon.

Going forward, you should also use methods to stop your bird bath freezing over in winter, to ensure birds can access fresh water during the coldest months.

2. Removing All Dead Plant Matter

As much as the fall garden landscape is beautiful, there's no doubt it can be overwhelming for those of us who prefer a neater look. But, before you jump in with collecting fallen leaves and removing spent blooms this season, keep small mammals, insects, and birds in mind.

'Fallen leaves and deadwood are necessary shelter for wildlife,' says ecologist Dr. Amy Karpati. 'Small mammals, turtles, and amphibians like salamanders and toads use the layer of leaf litter as a winter blanket, insulating them against the wind and cold during hibernation.'

In fact, you can actually make your yard wildlife-friendly before frost by creating intentional leaf piles for an insulated shelter. This is a great way to provide a neater look, too, without fallen leaves strewn across your entire lawn.

'You should also keep seedheads from perennials like marigolds, asters, and black-eyed Susans,' says Mary.

'These provide food for birds in winter and shelter for pollinators. Roughly 95% of songbirds feed insects to their young, so maintaining overwintering insect habitats is essential to support species like chickadees, cardinals, and bluebirds,' she adds.

Another bonus is that seedheads provide some architectural plant interest for the fall and winter garden, looking especially beautiful when touched by frost.

3. Using Pesticides

As you check in with all of your plants after a summer of abundant blooming, you may come across some of the most common fall garden pests. Pesticides often provide a quick solution, but in the long term, they can impact the biodiversity in your yard.

'Pesticides kill beneficial insects, which disrupts the food chain, later impacting garden birds,' Mary explains.

Likewise, weed killers contain chemicals that can harm the wildlife in your yard.

Instead, turn to natural pest control methods and non-chemical ways to get rid of weeds.

For example, you can use weeding tools, like this weed puller from Amazon, or try making a homemade bug spray.

FAQs

Should I Keep My Grass Long for Wildlife in Fall?

It's beneficial to keep parts of your lawn long in the fall for wildlife because it can provide essential shelter during this season. Of course, fall lawn care (including mowing) is important for the health of your grass, but even dedicating just a patch of long grass can go a long way for small mammals and beneficial insects.

Not only do these fall yard clean-up mistakes harm wildlife, but actively avoiding them will also help attract wildlife to yard in fall. Consider also adding the following features to your yard to offer wildlife support this season:

Asters are valuable perennials for bringing color to a garden in late summer and fall. Their star-shaped flowers come in vivid shades of purple, pink, red, white, and more, all surrounding a central yellow eye. If you adore the daisy-like flowers, you'll want to ensure you see them again next year, and thankfully, there are a few simple ways to guarantee that happens.

When you grow asters, the sun-loving plants can flower anywhere from July through to late October, depending on the variety. After this glorious blooming comes to an end, your thoughts should turn to keeping them healthy over winter so they spark into life again next year for a repeat performance.

If you have ever wondered what to do with asters in the fall, we shine a light on some tasks you should do, and others you may need to consider, depending on how you grow your asters. I have grown asters whilst working in historic public gardens in the UK for many years, and also sourced some tips from a couple of experienced gardeners to help you overwinter asters successfully.

What to do With Asters in the Fall

Asters are tough, cold-hardy perennial plants, but even the most resilient plants can do with a helping hand to keep them healthy year-round. You may not need to do much with asters in the fall to get them through winter unscathed, as what TLC they need during the season will depend on your climate, rainfall, and the state of the plants. However, the following factors are definitely worth considering:

1. Leave Them Standing

This one might ruffle a few feathers, especially among gardeners who like to regimentally tidy flower beds in the fall, but there are good reasons not to cut back asters in the fall and wait until spring instead.

Firstly, leaving the stems and foliage in situ over winter helps protect the plant's crown, providing a potentially valuable layer of insulation against winter cold and frosts. Asters are hardy down to US hardiness zone 4, depending on the variety, but in climates with cold winters, the extra insurance policy of leaving the foliage standing can keep the crown safe from harm.

The second reason is that the dried seed heads of asters provide a valuable food source for birds and pollinators during the colder months. The likes of cardinals, finches, and chickadees are all known to feed on aster seeds during winter, making it a treasured source of essential food at a tough time of year for birds.

Another reason for keeping asters standing in a wildlife garden is that the stems provide shelter for overwintering insects and invertebrates. If you need more convincing, the dried stems and seed heads provide valuable structure and interest in a winter garden.

2. Check For Diseases

Asters are susceptible to many diseases, and the fall is a good time to inspect plants and remove any diseased foliage. In an ideal world, it may mean removing a small amount of foliage, but if there is a major infection, it could potentially mean cutting the entire aster down to the ground.

Fungal diseases such as powdery mildew, leaf spot, fusarium wilt, and botrytis blight can all strike asters, often as a result of poor air circulation, wet weather, or plants being watered from above. Look out for the likes of white leaves (powdery mildew), yellow leaves (fusarium wilt or rust), fuzzy gray or brown mold (botrytis blight) or spots on leaves.

The best course of action is to remove and destroy affected leaves. Fungal spores can overwinter in plant material (even that left on the soil) to infect new growth come spring. Best practice is always to remove any infected stems or leaves with clean, sharp pruning shears and either burn them or send them to the landfill.

Never use infected material to make compost, as diseases can overwinter in the compost pile, and you end up spreading them around the garden in the future if you do make this composting mistake.

3. Water in Dry Periods

Asters don't always require regular watering to thrive, but do need to be given a drink during extended dry periods. And this need to keep an eye on when to water plants continues into the fall, especially in warmer climates.

'As fall arrives, your asters will benefit from some help to prepare them for the cooler months ahead,' says Kiersten Rankel, garden expert and botanist for the plant app Greg. 'If your local fall season is particularly dry, continue watering them and gradually reduce frequency as temperatures drop.'

Using a soil moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter, available at Amazon) is advisable to help make sensible watering decisions, as asters can sulk in overly damp or waterlogged soils, especially during winter. Water plants deeply as required, and be careful to water the soil rather than the foliage, as soaking the leaves makes the plants susceptible to powdery mildew.

4. Mulch Plants

'If you live in a very cold region, I would recommend covering the soil around the plants with a thick layer of straw mulch,' recommends Annette Hird, expert gardener at Easy Urban Gardens.

Mulching asters in fall will help to maintain moisture in the soil, insulate the plant's roots against the winter cold, and smother weeds. It offers an easy way to nourish the plant for the next growing season.

Add a layer a few inches thick around the aster in the fall, before the ground freezes. There are other types of mulch you can use, including straw, as highlighted by Annette, such as compost, leaf mold, or shredded bark.

You can get bags of sustainable straw mulch at Walmart to cover up to 100 square feet of flower beds or borders.

Spread the mulch around the plant with a shovel and rake it level, but avoid piling it over the crown or against the stems. As this mulching mistake leaves the crown at risk of rotting during winter, and can ultimately kill the plant.

5. Protect Containers

Many aster varieties can work wonderfully as part of any container garden plan. Compact plants look impressive in small pots, while taller varieties create a striking centrepiece, flanked by lower-growing plants.

In late fall, asters in containers should be moved to a frost-free location to overwinter, where they can be protected from the harshest winter cold and wet conditions. During this time, the plants will die back, so it is safe to move them to a more secluded spot where they can shelter.

Alternatively, the containers can be placed in a shed, garage, barn, cold frame, or unheated greenhouse, allowing them to remain dormant in a frost-free environment.

Check the containers every few weeks to ensure the soil doesn't dry out completely, and water sparingly as needed.

For extra protection, mulch the top of the pots with a few inches of straw or use pot covers to provide additional insulation for the roots, such as this pack of two winter pot covers at Amazon.

It is not just asters that offer tangible benefits to wildlife if left standing over winter in the garden. Many perennials offer food and shelter to birds and pollinators during the colder months if gardeners opt to leave pruning them until spring. To discover some more of these, this guide to perennials not to cut back in fall highlights seven plants that are valuable food sources to a plethora of wildlife during winter.

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The key to overwintering strawberries is to protect the roots from freezing and ensure the crown does not rot. Strawberry plants are hardy down to zone 3, depending on the variety, when growing in the ground. Plants can often survive winter with a covering of mulch protecting their roots from the frosts above. However, when you grow strawberries in containers or hanging baskets, it is not so simple.

When you grow strawberries in pots, the roots are more exposed; they do not have the luxury of all that soil surrounding them. There may only be a thin layer of compost in the container between them and the dangerous frosts, which will come at the roots from all angles.

It means that strawberries in containers need protection in zones 7 and below. However, there are some simple ways to overwinter strawberries in pots and ensure they get through the coldest months and come out prospering, so you can get harvests the following year. Here, we take a close look at the three best ways to overwinter strawberries in pots, so you can decide which works best for you.

Will Strawberries Overwinter in Pots?

Simply put, yes, strawberries can overwinter in pots, but they do need some assistance.

The exact hardiness of your plants will depend on the type of strawberry you are growing. At the end of one growing season, you can simply discard them and plant strawberries afresh next year. However, treating them as annuals is wasteful, especially as winterizing strawberry plants in containers isn't taxing.

I have grown strawberries for many years. They were a fixture in many kitchen gardens I worked in, as I cultivated and carefully picked the delicate fruits for chefs. We took steps in the gardens to overwinter plants successfully, and it always started with removing dead or diseased foliage, which was essential for keeping the plants healthy and combating strawberry plant diseases.

Pruning strawberries in that gentle way should be the first job on your fall gardening checklist if you want to overwinter strawberries in pots, too. Then you can pick from one of the following three ways:

1. Move Pots Indoors

If you have an unheated building that can provide protection, you can easily overwinter strawberries in pots in there. It can be an unheated garage, shed, barn, basement, or cold frame. Anywhere that is frost-free and dry, where the plants can be sheltered from the worst of the winter weather.

However, it does not want to get too warm through winter, no more than 45°F. You are not aiming to grow strawberries indoors in this way. You want to keep the plant alive and prevent the roots or crown from dying, rather than have the plant actively growing.

The plant will need little watering over winter. Check every few weeks and lightly water if required to just stop the soil from completely drying out.

If you want to make moving containers easier, consider using a plant caddy with wheels, such as this one on Amazon. Such aids are adjustable and suitable for a range of pot sizes. They reduce the need for lots of kneeling or bending when moving pots and overwintering plants indoors.

2. Sink Pots in the Ground

If you are short of space to move plants indoors, there is the option of planting the containers in the ground.

Using this method, the strawberries benefit from the same insulation courtesy of the soil as those living full-time in the ground. This method can be useful if you have space in vegetable gardens, kitchen gardens, or flower beds after removing annual flowers or crops at the end of the season.

If you want to overwinter strawberries in pots in this way, it works best for plants in plastic containers. If you grow strawberries in terracotta pots, it is better to repot them into plastic, as the terracotta pots can crack and break if the ground freezes and thaws.

Burying pots is also unsuitable if you use strawberry pots or towers, which are tall pots with side planting holes, like this attractive ceramic strawberry pot at Wayfair.

Plant the container in the soil so that the rim is flush with the ground, and mulch over the top of the plants with a 4-to 6-inch layer of straw or shredded leaves.

3. Insulate the Pots

In more borderline climates, or if the above two methods are not possible for you, you can overwinter strawberries in pots outdoors, provided you give them adequate protection. The key element is to protect the container plants from winter weather, primarily sheltering the roots from frost damage.

You can move pots to sheltered corners of the yard and group pots together to retain warmth and have added protection from the wind.

For extra shelter, you can surround the pots with bubble wrap or stuff straw between the containers to insulate against cold air that can circulate the pots during the winter. Plus, you can also use straw on top of the pot to protect the crown.

Alternatively, you can insulate individual pots if you don't have enough to take advantage of grouping them. The options for this include wrapping pots with burlap or using insulated pot covers for winter.

Come spring, the time arrives to wake up your strawberry plants after the last frost, once they are no longer at risk from the winter weather. Lift them if they were sunken in the ground, remove any mulch from the top of the plants, and start watering plants as needed to get them off to a strong start to the season.

Early to mid-spring is also an ideal time to fertilize strawberries with a balanced feed, such as this organic all-purpose fertilizer at Walmart. Such a product provides all the essential plant nutrients for strong growth and a great crop of strawberries to pick.

Peonies may only have a fleeting period of flowering, but they are highly anticipated by many gardeners and are one of the crowning moments of late spring or early summer. The big, blousy blooms may be on show for just a few weeks, yet peonies require lots of TLC to keep them performing.

There can be jobs for all seasons when you grow peonies, and in the fall there are some key care and maintenance tasks you can do. The plants need cutting back and mulching to keep them healthy, while the fall also offers the ideal opportunity to move or divide peonies in your garden.

If you've ever wondered how to care for peonies in the fall, we've got you covered. This guide looks in-depth at the four key jobs you can add to your fall gardening checklist. The rewards are worth the effort; not only will your peonies survive through winter and come out strongly to put on a fantastic display next year, but you can also get new plants for free.

How to Care For Peonies in The Fall

The following recommendations are for herbaceous peonies, rather than tree peonies. When you grow tree peonies, these shrub-like plants grow up to eight feet tall and have larger flowers. Their care and maintenance differ slightly from herbaceous types (such as this Autens Pride Peony, available at Amazon), especially when it comes to pruning and propagation.

1. Cut Back the Plants

Once the peony foliage turns yellow and dies back in the fall, it is time to cut back peonies. They tend to be perennial plants to prune in October or November, depending on your climate, but you do need to wait until the foliage has completely turned yellow or brown.

The foliage may wilt after blooming, but being impatient and trimming too early is a peony pruning mistake. For the best flowering display the next year, the foliage needs as much time as possible to photosynthesize and store energy. So, peonies should be cut back in the fall, but not until the right moment.

Another important reason to prune peonies in the fall is that they are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. The likes of powdery mildew, botrytis blight, and gray mold can overwinter on old plant material and then infect the new foliage in the spring. To keep peonies healthy, remove all the foliage in the fall using a pair of sharp pruning tools, such as these professional Felco 2 pruning shears at Garden Goods Direct).

You can use healthy leaves to make compost, but don't add infected leaves to your pile, as spores can overwinter in compost and then be spread to other plants.

2. Mulch with Organic Matter

Peonies can benefit from the protection that mulch offers against cold weather. The mulch insulates the roots from frost, making it an important fall maintenance task in colder climates. It also helps maintain soil moisture and reduces competition from weeds.

In addition, mulching also helps newly-planted peonies avoid succumbing to heaving, where the roots are pushed from the ground due to the repeated freezing and thawing of the soil.

The best types of mulch for peonies in the fall are compost, leaf mold, straw, or natural wood mulch, such as this organic dye-free premium mulch available at Amazon.

If you want to mulch on a budget, there are several fall mulching materials you can source for free, including leaves, homemade compost, and wood chips.

Put a layer of a few inches deep around the peony, but do not bury the crown of the plant.

3. Move Plants

Peonies can happily thrive and bloom in the same place for many years. However, if you have existing plants you feel would be better somewhere else, or if you are tweaking your backyard ideas, then the fall is the best time to transplant peonies.

The adage is that peonies do not like being moved. While they can be temperamental perennial plants, this is not always the case, provided you do it at the right time. The plants are starting to enter dormancy in late fall, so September to November is a great time to lift and transplant them.

Cut back the stems, and dig a large circle around the plant to avoid damaging the roots when you lift the peony from the ground. Take care to lift the plant with lots of soil around the root ball and relocate it into a large hole with the crown no more than an inch below the soil.

Sprinkle some bone meal around the plant, which is high in phosphorus and helps to develop roots, and give it a deep watering and mulch. You can get organic bone meal at Burpee to use to feed your transplanted peony in the fall.

The newly transplanted peony won't flower the following spring, but should start blooming the next year.

4. Divide Plants

Just as you can lift and move peonies in the fall, it is also a good time to propagate peonies by division if you want to add to your collection of plants.

In the same way as above, cut the stems to the ground and carefully lift the peony from the soil. Brushing off as much soil as possible from the rootball will help you see where the eyes (or buds) are - these are the small growths on the crown where stems emerge.

Divide the plants with a sharp spade, knife, or hori hori, making sure that any sections have at least 3-5 eyes. Replant the sections as soon as possible in a sunny spot, ensuring the crown is no more than two inches below the surface. Planting too deeply is often the culprit for peonies not blooming.

Keep the new section well-watered and, again, prepare for it not to flower the following spring.

The fall also offers an ideal window to plant peonies if you do wish to add more specimens to your garden. Both container-grown and bare-root peonies can be planted in the fall. They will have a whole growing season to fully settle in their new home and hopefully burst into bloom in their second spring.

I added agapanthus to my border this year and it comes with no regret. Tall flower spikes of purple and white blooms have been a joyful sight, flowering from late spring through summer. Now that they have faded, I've been wondering whether I need to winterize agapanthus?

If you also grow agapanthus, this is a key thing to find out. The truth is, you only really need to winterize agapanthus if you live in US hardiness zone 7 or below. Milder climes can get away with minimal protection for these perennials, though it is advised to cut back spent flower spikes. Likewise, even if you do live in US hardiness zone 8 or above, you may want to consider providing some light frost protection (like mulching) if you have frosty periods forecasted, to ensure your agapanthus returns reliably next year.

For those living in the coldest regions, it's best to actually overwinter agapanthus by lifting and storing them under cover. Here, I explain when and how to winterize agapanthus, so you can get this fall gardening checklist job ticked off ahead of frost.

How to Winterize Agapanthus

How you winterize agapanthus will depend on your US hardiness zone and the agapanthus variety you're growing, as some are slightly more hardy than others. For example, evergreen agapanthus plants tend to be less hardy than deciduous varieties.

For the most part, however, agapanthus is hardy across US hardiness zone 7 to zone 11. For those living within this range, you can get away with minimal frost protection. However, those living in colder areas should consider more robust winterizing outdoors and even overwintering indoors. Below, I discuss how to do both methods and how to know which is best for you to use.

How to Winterize Agapanthus Outdoors

Deciduous agapanthus is generally hardy down to 14°F, while evergreen varieties are only hardy down to 23°F. For this reason, agapanthus planted in zones 7 and 8 generally need some winter protection. Luckily, there are only a handful of steps to protect plants from frost.

'If you have a deciduous agapanthus, it's important to wait until the foliage has naturally turned yellow in fall before cutting it back,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

Using essential pruning tools, like these Fiskars bypass pruners from Amazon, deadhead agapanthus flowers that remain and cut back yellowed foliage to around four inches.

'It's at this point you also want to stop watering plants before frost,' Drew adds.

With the dead plant matter removed, you can then turn your attention to mulching. You want to apply around four to six inches of mulch around the base of your agapanthus. This will provide insulation, trapping in heat and moisture to help your agapanthus get through winter.

'Some of the best fall mulching materials include homemade compost, leaf mold, and wood chips,' says Drew. 'You want to make sure the crown of your agapanthus is covered.'

You can find organic mulch on Amazon to use.

'It's a slightly different process for evergreen agapanthus,' Drew notes. 'You don't want to remove the foliage because it protects the roots and crown of the plant over winter. You should, however, put down a layer of mulch.'

Something to also be aware of is your soil type. To help winterize agapanthus outdoors successfully, you should ensure it is planted in well-draining soil. Waterlogged soil may cause rotting in the colder months.

'If you happen to be growing agapanthus in pots, you can use methods to protect container plants from winter weather for extra insulation,' Drew notes. 'This includes wrapping the pot with burlap (from Amazon).'

'When spring comes around and new growth starts to emerge, gradually remove the mulch materials and start watering your agapanthus plants again,' Drew says.

How to Overwinter Agapanthus Indoors

Overwintering agapanthus indoors is required for those living in US hardiness zones 6 and below. In these frostier conditions, your agapanthus will be less likely to survive winter outdoors, so it's safer to lift and store it.

'Begin by cutting back deciduous agapanthus once foliage has naturally yellowed,' says Drew. You then want to get your essential gardening tools for digging, like this trowel from Amazon.

'Carefully dig around the base of your agapanthus to lift the rhizomes, taking care not to damage the root ball,' Drew says. 'You then want to brush off as much soil as you can without washing the rhizomes, which could risk rotting during storage.'

The next step is allowing the rhizomes to dry, a process called 'curing'. 'This helps to toughen their skin and can be achieved by simply laying them out somewhere warm and dry for up to a week,' Drew explains.

After curing, you can wrap your agapanthus rhizomes in newspaper and store them in a dry container like a cardboard or wooden box, alongside shredded paper, coco coir (from Amazon), or vermiculite.

'It's really important to make sure the rhizomes aren't touching to prevent fungal issues and rot,' Drew says. 'You should keep them somewhere with a temperature of 50°F over winter.'

For evergreen agapanthus, it's best to lift and pot them up to store somewhere undercover where they will receive bright light, like a greenhouse or conservatory.

This will allow the green foliage to continue carrying out photosynthesis in preparation for active spring growth. Once again, the temperature should be kept around 50°F.

In spring, after the risk of late frost, you can replant your agapanthus rhizomes and gradually acclimatize your evergreen agapanthus back outdoors for another season of blooms.

FAQs

Do I Water Overwintering Agapanthus?

Overwintering deciduous agapanthus rhizomes should not be watered until they are back in the ground. This could cause rot and make them less viable for replanting. However, overwintering evergreen agapanthus should be watered, though sparingly. You don't want its soil to dry out entirely, but it also isn't actively growing, so it shouldn't be watered frequently. This can once again lead to rot and kill off the plant.

Once you have replanted your agapanthus in spring, make sure to fertilize your agapanthus. If you find your agapanthus is not flowering, it indicates you may need to adjust the growing environment. For example, your agapanthus may need a sunnier position.

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The calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica) is a summer-flowering perennial with trumpet-like flowers and lush, bright green leaves. The tropical plants are popular for bringing abundant color indoors and outdoors, but, as most varieties are tender, you should winterize calla lilies to guarantee blooms year after year.

The exotic summer bulbs are frost-tender, which impacts how they want to be treated for winter. They must be lifted and stored over winter in colder climates, while growers in warmer regions can successfully overwinter calla lilies outdoors.

This guide looks at both methods in detail, plus what to do if you grow the flowers in containers. It includes all the steps you need to know to winterize calla lilies in your climate, helping you to enjoy their stunning flowers for years.

How to Winterize Calla Lilies – Two Different Methods

Your US hardiness zone impacts how you should winterize calla lilies. Whether you live in warmer or cooler climates, these are the steps to follow to overwinter plants successfully.

How to Overwinter Calla Lilies Outdoors in Warmer Climates

If you live in US hardiness zones 8 or higher, it is a simple process to winterize calla lilies outdoors in the ground. The tender rhizome can survive outdoors in climates where there are no deep freezes or long periods of snow. Providing it is a frost-free minimum of 37-40°F, they can overwinter successfully where they are.

One caveat to the above rule is your soil type. You should only winterize calla lilies outdoors in well-draining soils, as rhizomes sitting in wet soil over winter risk rotting. Even in warmer climates, if you don't have free-draining soil, it is safer to lift and overwinter tender bulbs indoors to reduce the risk of losing them to rot.

To winterize calla lilies in situ, stop watering plants in mid-fall to encourage them to enter dormancy. Once the foliage yellows and dies back, cut back the calla lily foliage to ground level and apply a four-inch thick layer of mulch to the tender plants. This mulching layer provides essential insulation to the rhizome against cold temperatures, and compost, straw, or bark are all suitable types of mulch to use.

It may depend on when exactly plants go dormant, as you want to let them completely die back before cutting and covering, but calla lilies are usually among the best tender plants to mulch in October in warmer climates, along with other bulbs such as dahlias and canna lilies.

Come spring, carefully remove the mulch from over the plants once you see the first shoots start poking through.

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How to Overwinter Calla Lilies Indoors in Colder Climates

Gardeners in US hardiness zones 7 or lower will have to winterize calla lilies by lifting them from the ground and overwintering them indoors. The good news is that it is not a difficult task to prepare and store the rhizomes over winter.

Follow these five steps to overwinter calla lilies indoors, and you can replant them in spring:

1. Wait until the foliage turns yellow and dies back, usually as a result of the first light frosts, and cut the leaves back to a couple of inches above the ground with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears
2. Carefully dig up the rhizomes with a garden fork or trowel and gently remove as much soil as possible from them. Do this with a brush, but do not wash the rhizomes, as they risk rotting during storage
3. Cure the rhizomes by placing them spaced out on a tray in a dry place with temperatures of 60 to 70°F for a week. This toughens the skin and helps ensure they store successfully over winter
4. After curing, wrap the rhizomes in newspaper and place them in a paper bag filled with a little shredded paper, coco coir, peat moss, rice hulls, or vermiculite (you can get bags of professional-grade vermiculite at Walmart). Don’t let the rhizomes touch each other.
5. Place the bag in a cool, dry location that will remain around 50ºF throughout winter

Check the rhizomes monthly throughout winter and remove any that start going mushy or showing signs of rot. If the rhizomes appear shrunken due to being too dry, lightly mist the medium in the bag. You can then replant the calla lilies in spring once the risk of frost has passed.

FAQs

What to do With Potted Calla Lilies in the Fall?

If you have calla lilies in pots as part of a container garden, these plants are simple to overwinter.

Stop watering in mid-fall, once they have finished flowering, and cut the foliage down once it yellows and dies back. The rhizomes can be kept in their pots of compost in a dry and frost-free environment, such as a garage, shed, or porch.

In late winter, repot the rhizomes into fresh potting soil for container gardening and start watering to wake them from their winter dormancy.

Calla lilies multiply as the underground rhizomes naturally develop new buds and expand. You can divide plants by separating the rhizomes and cutting them into sections. As long as any section has buds, it can grow into a new plant to enjoy. You can divide calla lilies during their dormancy period, which will help prevent overcrowding that can affect the quality of the blooms.

My indoor garden comes to life in the fall. It's the season when it has my full attention, while I prepare to put my outdoor plants to bed for the coldest months. There's one idea I stumbled across this week that I instantly knew would give my indoor planting a seasonal feel: fall flowers to grow indoors.

From chrysanthemums positioned on either side of a fireplace, to cyclamen in the center of coffee tables and asters bringing a pop of color to your indoor garden, there are a few fall flowers you can grow indoors fairly easily for sensational displays.

Unlike perennials you can grow as houseplants, however, some of these indoor fall flowers are often treated as annuals, serving a purpose for one season. But, they are all sure to bring the celebration of fall into your home, impressing guests and evoking a cozy feeling. Here, I share my top three picks and tips on how to grow them indoors successfully.

3 Fall Flowers to Grow Indoors

I already have some of the best houseplants for fall color in my home, but these fall flowers to grow indoors are going to take my display to the next level. They're perfect for infusing seasonal feeling and color into your interiors for fall hosting. Plus, they're likely to bloom right into winter, and possibly even longer. Having said that, you do have to meet some essential growing requirements to make an indoor setting work.

1. Cyclamen

You can grow indoor cyclamen for blooms that have the potential to last through fall until spring.

They come in a wide range of colors, from reds and pinks to white and purple. They're great for fall flowers to grow indoors because they're quite compact, neatly filling gaps in windowsills or shelves.

Arguably the best type of cyclamen for indoor growing is a florist cyclamen (find an indoor cyclamen plant on Amazon). These are specially bred for long indoor displays, like florist hydrangeas.

And while some fall flowers to grow indoors are best grown as annuals, an indoor cyclamen is uniquely a perennial that can bloom year after year with the right care.

To make indoor growing a success, choose a bright spot that is out of direct sunlight. A direct sun position could cause leaf scorch for your cyclamen.

You should also only water your cyclamen when the top inch of soil has dried out. I always use this soil moisture meter from Amazon for any plants I grow indoors, which helps to identify when exactly it's time to top up water levels.

2. Chrysanthemums

A personal favorite and all-time classic for fall, you can grow chrysanthemums indoors easily. With a bushy habit, they'll instantly create drama among your indoor plants.

What I love most about chrysanthemums is the fall color they provide, including white, yellow, red, orange, and even pink. It's also easy to grow chrysanthemums in pots, so they're easy to bring indoors for fall displays.

To make indoor mums a success, make sure to choose the right varieties. Some of the most suited to indoor growing include florist pot mums (like this plant from Walmart), button mums, and dwarf mums. They're best treated as annuals for indoor growing.

Make sure they get at least five hours of sunlight a day and are kept away from cold drafts and windows. You can also deadhead chrysanthemums regularly to encourage new blooms throughout fall. You can do this by pinching spent blooms or use these pruning snips from Amazon.

Our guide to chrysanthemum mistakes also applies to indoor mums.

3. Asters

The final plant on my list of fall flowers to grow indoors is aster, one of the brightest fall flowers for pots that can be incorporated into indoor settings.

Of course, there are lots of different aster varieties, including climbing asters. The best for indoor growing are compact and shorter in stature, like Italian asters or dwarf asters (from Amazon).

They're best grown as annuals indoors because they rely on a period of cold winter dormancy outdoors for perennial blooming.

To grow and care for asters indoors, choose a bright position, as they do best with six hours of indirect sunlight daily. Bear in mind daylight is limited in the fall, so you may consider using a grow light for houseplants above your indoor asters.

You should also keep their soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, which could result in root rot.

The key to success with indoor asters is moderate humidity. If you have drier rooms in your home, consider placing the asters on a pebble tray (from Amazon) to boost humidity levels.

While not the easiest fall flower to grow indoors, if you can maintain ideal conditions, you can enjoy asters as part of your indoor plant display for fall.

FAQs

Can I Plant Out Indoor Fall Flowers?

This depends on the type of fall flowers you're growing indoors. Some florist flowers (including florist pot mums and florist cyclamen) are not necessarily bred to thrive in outdoor conditions, but rather grown for a long-flowering indoor display. However, it is possible to grow some asters indoors for fall and then plant them out in spring (after frost). This will allow it time to establish in the ground before fall.

There's no doubt that fall flowers to grow indoors will capture the attention of your guests and enhance the fall feeling of your home. Many of the items on our fall houseplant care checklist also apply to these indoor blooms, which will help you achieve the longest display possible.

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Well-managed healthy soil is essential for a productive garden. As we approach the end of a growing season, there are steps you can take to maintain your soil's health and minimize potential pest problems next year.

From adding organic matter to ensure a thriving ecosystem in your soil, to growing cover crops or harnessing the power of natural pests, there are simple fall soil amendments to discover that make a huge benefit to the overall health of your garden.

If you are putting soil health at the top of your fall gardening checklist, here are a few seasonal soil fixes to discover that help prepare your ground for spring and disrupt the lifecycle of unwanted pests.

Fall Soil Amendments to Boost Nutrients and Combat Pests

This season is an ideal time to test your soil and check its nutrient and pH levels after a hard growing season. After the rigours of the season, the soil can be short of resources, and a test will highlight any imbalances that can be fixed with soil amendments before spring.

You can check your soil using a professional soil test kit like this at Amazon, which measures 13 plant-available nutrient levels.

Some of the following fall soil amendments add nutrients to the soil and help reduce pest problems, while others focus solely on ridding the soil of unwanted pests. However, they all do make a difference and are worth adding to a to-do list this fall.

1. Add Compost or Well-Rotted Manure

Healthy soil is full of life, and such a thriving ecosystem supports natural predators in the soil. Keep a healthy soil, and the likes of nematodes, predatory mites, and spiders will prosper, and they can help by eating soil-dwelling pests like aphids, grubs, and fungus gnat larvae.

Fall is an ideal time to add nutrient-rich compost or well-rotted manure to your soil. Such organic material helps boost soil nutrients and maintain a rich ecosystem, which includes fungi, bacteria, earthworms, insects, and more.

You can either incorporate the organic matter into the soil or add a 2-3 inch layer of mulching materials and let it mix into the soil naturally.

It is important only ever to use well-rotted manure. Adding fresh manure can burn plant roots and harm the soil's ecosystem.

This 40-pound bag of blended compost and manure available at Walmart makes an ideal mulch for smaller gardens.

2. Remove Debris to Prevent Overwintering

There are a surprising number of pests that overwinter in plant debris left sitting on the soil. The likes of squash bugs, aphids, spider mites, slugs, snails and beetle larvae can survive the coldest months tucked up in old debris or leaf litter.

This old garden material provides them a warm, protected spot for winter, allows them to breed, and can even provide food to see them through until spring. So don't leave piles of old stems or leaves sitting on the soil throughout winter.

While it may seem like an effort to clear them away, you are doing pests a favor by leaving them in situ for long periods of time. It won't take long to head out with a garden rake or fork to collect all the material into a bucket and remove it from the soil.

If the material looks disease-free, use it to make compost. However, if it appears infested with fungi or pathogens, it is safer to discard it rather than risk spreading disease problems.

3. Gently Till the Soil

Lightly turning the top few inches of soil can help reduce pest populations by disrupting their habitats and leaving them vulnerable to predators and weather.

Just agitating the top 2-4 inches can be enough to expose insect eggs and larvae just under the surface of the soil. It makes them susceptible to natural predators, such as birds, and also freezing temperatures.

It is best to do this before the ground freezes. Tilling can be a laborious task, and whether you choose to do this may depend on the size of your plot. Tilling the soil can be done manually with a garden fork or a machine, like this electric garden tiller and cultivator at Amazon.

If you do no-dig gardening and don't till the soil, you can pick certain mulches that are known to repel winter pests. Such as using seaweed in the garden, which has jagged edges when it dries, that agitates slugs and keeps them away from the area.

4. Add Beneficial Nematodes

These small-but-mighty microscopic organisms are great for natural pest control and can be added in the fall, provided the soil is not frozen and has a temperature above 41°F.

The beneficial insects feed on soil-borne insects and pests, including fungus gnats, caterpillars, flea beetles, slugs, and more. Different species of beneficial nematodes target set pests, seeking out their prey, reproducing inside of it, and killing the target within 24-48 hours. They can have an effect on pest populations within the soil within a week.

Beneficial nematodes are dormant within their packaging and are mixed with water and applied to the soil. And this mix of live beneficial nematodes at Amazon can guard against over 200 soil-dwelling pests.

Another useful suppressant that can be added to the soil in the fall is diatomaceous earth. It is made from the fossilized remains of aquatic organisms, and its jagged edges pierce soft-bodied pests like aphids, mites, ants, and earwigs, causing them to dehydrate and die.

Diatomaceous earth can be used on the soil around plants, and you can get food-grade diatomaceous earth at Amazon to add to the soil this fall.

5. Plant Cover Crops

Cover crops, also known as green manures, are a great way to prepare garden soil for spring, as they can maintain or even improve soil health, and some can actively help against soil-borne pests and diseases.

Overall, cover crops offer many benefits. They are a great form of organic weed control, they prevent erosion, and keep the soil healthy. Planting a cover crop benefits all the life in the soil, including the relationship between plants, bacteria, and fungi underground.

Retaining healthy soil is fundamental, as it ensures a place for beneficial predators. Those pest-eating predators can also reside in the cover crop over the winter, plus other predators can be attracted to certain green manures when they start blooming in spring.

Some green manures are biofumigants, and release compounds into the soil as they break down that help combat soil-borne pests and pathogens. The most common of these is mustard, a fast-growing green manure that can be chopped and dug back into the soil within six weeks of germinating. The compounds are released as the plant breaks down, helping to reduce pest populations in the soil.

If you want to sow mustard green manure in the fall, it ideally wants to be done 4-6 weeks before your first hard frost. You can get mustard green manure seeds at True Leaf Market to sow.

It also pays to think ahead to combat pest and disease problems by planning out a crop rotation. Moving crops around a vegetable garden keeps the soil healthy and breaks any build-up of pests and diseases in the soil that come from growing the same crops in the same space year after year. I also recommend including green manures in your rotation, which goes even further to ensuring fantastic, healthy soil that your crops will thrive in.

Just because the plants in your garden are slowing down in fall, it doesn't mean it's time to retreat indoors, shut the door, and neglect garden wildlife until spring. That's why I've been searching for ways to continue helping birds over the next few months, including hunting down the best bird feeders for fall and winter.

There are lots of ways to help garden birds in winter, but providing the right vessel for them to eat from is key. Some bird feeders aren't built to withstand the harshest weather, and birds won't have much luck using them during the coldest months. Luckily, I've discovered some of the best bird feeders for this time of year.

Not only are they practical and will help feed birds during fall and winter, but they are also incredibly charming and make for great additions to your seasonal decor. Here, I've compiled my top six finds for you to explore and add to your winter wildlife garden.

6 Charming Bird Feeders for Fall and Winter

All of these bird feeders will help to feed birds in winter while looking great hanging from bare tree branches in your yard. They're practical for colder days and have seasonal designs that add interest to the fall garden and winter landscape.

Bird feeders for fall and winter aren't the only way to support feathered friends during the coldest months. You should also keep on top of bird bath winter care, including stopping your bird bath freezing and keeping it clean.

Lavender ranks among the most popular plants for good reason. The mass of pretty purple flowers in summer, the glorious fragrance, its versatility, and how low-maintenance it can be in the right circumstances. But growing lavender isn't always a cake-walk, and things can go awry quickly if you've planted it at the wrong time of year.

Knowing when to plant lavender and when not to is important, as it helps you avoid wasting time and effort. Most gardeners know the ideal time to plant is spring, but can you plant lavender in the fall?

Well, you can and you can't, and it all depends on the type of lavender, your climate, and your soil. But we want to keep things simple and avoid any potential confusion if you want to grow lavender. Below you will find the key factors that reveal when you can plant lavender in the fall or if you should hold off until spring.

Can You Plant Lavender in the Fall? When You Can and Can't

Should you add planting lavender to your fall gardening checklist? Here's all you need to know to make the right decision…

When You Can Plant Lavender in the Fall

You can plant hardy lavender varieties in the fall, provided you can give them enough time to establish and the right conditions to prosper during the colder months. So, let's look at the parameters that need to be right for plants to cope with fall planting:

Planting hardy lavender in the fall is acceptable in climates with milder winters, namely, US hardiness zones 7 to 10. In these zones, the lavender can take advantage of the warm soil, cool air, and seasonal rainfall to help plants settle in their new home.

The plants need at least six weeks between planting and the first hard frost for your region to have sufficient time to develop strong roots, which are crucial to the plant's chances of surviving winter.

As well as the type and climate, another key aspect of whether you can plant lavender in the fall is your soil type. Lavender needs well-draining soil and dislikes sitting with wet roots for long periods, so it can only be planted in the fall into ground that won't hold onto lots of water over winter.

If you have well-draining soil or can improve the drainage of your ground sufficiently by adding organic matter, grit, or coarse sand, lavender can be planted in the fall. You may struggle to winterize lavender successfully in a heavy soil that retains winter moisture.

When Not to Plant Lavender in the Fall

So, if you can in zones 7-10, can you plant lavender in the fall in US hardiness zones 6 and below? Well, the answer is no. Unfortunately, planting lavender in the fall is not recommended in areas with extreme winters, such as places with early frosts, deep freezes and extended periods of snow.

Even hardy lavender plants will not cope with harsh winters coming quickly after planting, as it takes time for plants to establish and reach their full hardiness. Gardeners in such climates are best planting in spring, so their lavender can get a full season to establish strong roots and reach full hardiness potential.

As outlined above, it is very risky to plant lavender in the fall if you have heavier soils that sit wet during winter. It would be a lavender-growing mistake to plant any young specimens in cold and wet soils, where they will be highly vulnerable to root rot in winter.

If you planted lavender seeds earlier in the year and have not got around to putting the plants outdoors yet, what can you expect to do with them in the fall if planting them outside is risky?

You can grow the lavender in pots indoors over winter, or keep the young plants in containers protected in a greenhouse or cold frame during the colder months. Growing lavender indoors means a lovely fragrance that can help provide stress relief, and it also repels house pests due to its strong smell.

FAQs

Is September Too Late to Plant Lavender?

September can be a good time to plant hardy lavender. The soil is warm from summer, and plants will have sufficient weeks to grow roots before the first hard frost. Regularly water plants to help them get established, and consider mulching around them with organic matter to retain moisture in the soil, smother weeds, and insulate the roots over winter.

Can You Plant Lavender in October?

If you live in milder climates and can give hardy lavender plants at least six weeks to establish before the first hard frost for your area, you can plant lavender in October. It is also dependent on whether you have well-draining soil. Planting in October is generally limited to just those in US hardiness zones 7-10.

If you ever have concerns about whether your lavender plants will survive winter, a safe contingency plan is to propagate lavender by taking cuttings. You can take softwood cuttings in spring and early summer, or hardwood cuttings in late fall. Softwood cuttings are the quicker of the two methods, but both are reliable methods of propagating lavender plants.

This guide on how to propagate lavender reveals the steps to follow for both methods, so you can take plant cuttings with confidence and get new plants for free.

Spooky season is in full swing and Halloween is right around the corner. If you haven't got around to decorating your porch just yet, or feel like something is missing from your display, turn to seasonal planting.

This isn't just the best fall flowers for pots, though, but rather plants that complement and enhance your outdoor Halloween decor. And while you may cringe at the idea of spooky gimmicks among these plants, these Halloween porch planting ideas are much more subtle and classy, yet still deliver a touch of holiday celebration.

Here, I've compiled five of the best Halloween porch planting ideas suggested by garden designers. They're all guaranteed to bring some drama to your spooky season display, while radiating style and sophistication.

5 Stylish Halloween Porch Planting Ideas

These Halloween porch planting ideas take fall planters to the next level with spooky plants. They embody the fun of this spooky holiday without leaning too far into the likes of creepy spiders, ghost statues, or an overload of pumpkins.

1. Celebrate Harvest Season

Halloween lands right in the midst of harvest season, so why not celebrate this on your front porch?

To give it a spooky twist, gather unusual vegetables with intriguing colors and shapes. For example, ornamental cabbage, with its bright purple center that will have passers-by doing a double-take.

'Ornamental cabbages (seeds from Amazon), add color and unique texture to any fall container,' says Laura Janney, CEO of The Inspired Garden Masterclass. 'Their soft yet sturdy, waxy leaves, and rounded growth habit make them unlike any other fall annual,' she adds.

'Though most people dismiss them as mere winter greens, their rich purples, silvers, and dark greens inherently remind one of a gothic, nearly witchy color scheme for this time of year,' adds garden designer David Barbera.

Other crops to add to your harvest season display include ornamental kale (seeds from Amazon) and even stems from shrubs for fall berries.

To enhance this look, place your crops in wicker baskets and rustic planters. I particularly love the idea of using a wooden harvest trug (like this one from Amazon).

2. Plant Colorful Foliage

Just like unique-toned vegetables, there are plenty of plants perfect for striking foliage, including shrubs and trees for fall color.

Above, red, green, and pink variegated coleus take center stage. You can find a wide range of coleus plants on Amazon.

Just be aware they won't survive beyond the first frost, so they're best suited to a milder fall climate. When they do start to fade, don't forget to cut back coleus for winter.

Other fun foliage options for Halloween porch planting ideas include coral bells (see heuchera varieties) and spirea, which earns its place on our list of unexpected plants for fall color.

'Heuchera comes in so many moody colors like smokey purples and even some varieties that are almost black, which is perfect for any Halloween porch scene,' Laura says. 'I recommend using them as a trailer and have the leaves cascade on the outer edges of your containers.'

To extend this fall color beyond your porch, use these plants to edge your path leading up to your porch.

Find heuchera plants at Walmart.

Find a spirea shrub at Nature Hills.

3. Spook Visitors with Black Mondo Grass

Ornamental grasses bring movement and texture to Halloween porch planting ideas.

A stand-out choice is black mondo grass (plants from Walmart). As its name suggests, it's a grass purple-black in color, and it even develops dark, shiny blue-black berries after summer.

'As a discreet but dramatic accent, I use black mondo grass at the edges of stairs or in small pots,' says David. 'Its leaves are perfect for contrast with orange pumpkins.'

The best part is that black mondo grass is evergreen and will continue wowing after Halloween as one of the best ornamental grasses for winter interest.

For a monochrome, stark display this Halloween, grow black mondo grass in white planters. These large outdoor ceramic white plants from Amazon are perfect for positioning your black mondo grass either side of your porch stairs.

4. Use Corn Stalks for Height

While this might not be a living Halloween porch planting idea, there's no doubt that dried corn stalks offer a styled approach to spooky decor. The best part is, if you grow corn, you'll be left with these dried stalks to put on display by the end of October.

The more corn stalks, the more drama, so try tying them together with twine (from Amazon). You can actually purchase dried corn stalks from Walmart, or go down an artificial route with these corn stalk decorations from Amazon for a reusable option year after year.

Pair them with other architectural plants, including the best plants for seedheads and the plants you should never deadhead.

As well as embracing the fall season through these plants, the fact that they are fading and dying leans into the Halloween theme while looking beautiful in their own right.

5. Fill Gaps with Violas

Spooky season doesn't have to be so creepy; there are lots of Halloween colors that can be found in stunning fall flowers. Violas, for example, come in all colors from purple, yellow, burgundy, white, and even black (like these black viola seeds from Amazon).

Violas tend to be dainty and smaller than winter pansies, offering the perfect filler for bare spots in your front yard borders or porch containers.

'Violas are extremely cold-tolerant, sometimes lasting until the following spring.' Laura notes. 'We love how they add a vibrant pop. Clump them together in groups to really make an impact.'

Our guide to thriller, spiller, filler containers can help you use violas to create a sensational seasonal display.

Explore the range of violas on Amazon.

FAQs

What Are the Best Chrysanthemum Varieties for Halloween?

Mums are some of the best fall flowers to put on display this season. Types of chrysanthemums that can enhance your Halloween planting scheme include spider mums, quill mums, and two-tone mums, all of which have unique textures and hues for spooky season.

Alongside these Halloween porch planting ideas, try incorporating some of the best fall flower and foliage decorating ideas. These can help to transition your porch from Halloween galore to seasonal fall interest, before turning your attention to winter plants and festive details.

Shop Seasonal Planters to Bring Your Halloween Planting to Life:

Astilbe is a stunning perennial to brighten up often-tricky, shadier spots in the garden. With the right care, astilbe plants can last for many years, so it pays to understand how to care for astilbe in the fall to help it survive winter and put on a show the following year.

There are hundreds of cultivars of the summer-flowering perennial to pick from that are fully hardy in US hardiness zones 4-8. But just because they can tolerate cold, it doesn't mean they should just be neglected after flowering. When you grow astilbe, it only takes a few key maintenance tasks in the fall to help keep plants healthy and flowering to their full potential.

If you want to learn how to care for astilbe in the fall, there are four important jobs to remember. Among them, one is for either fall or spring, and another is only required at least every three years. It means astilbe fall care is super-simple and highly recommended.

What to do With Astilbe in The Fall

This guide on how to care for astilbe in the fall highlights four tasks, giving the reasons to do them along with a few expert tips to carry them out successfully. They are not all mandatory, and there may be exceptions due to weather or personal preferences, but the following jobs are all worth considering:

1. To Cut Back Or Not to Cut Back

There is no hard-and-fast rule for whether you should cut back astilbe in the fall or not. You can opt to prune astilbe in the fall, the spring, or do a bit of both. The route you take may depend on your gardening style or the condition of the plant, and there is no absolute right or wrong.

Firstly, let's start with opting to cut back astilbe in the fall. This helps to tidy the garden, which appeals to those who like neat flower beds over winter, and removes any debris that may harbor diseases. For example, astilbe is susceptible to powdery mildew that can overwinter on infected plant material, so it is best to add cutting back to your fall gardening checklist if your astilbe suffers from this fungal problem.

Another consideration is that the dry flower stalks can make good additions to arrangements, and removing old stems will also prevent the plant from self-seeding around the garden. So, there is the option of removing the stems and then cutting back the rest of the plant in the spring.

However, many gardeners prefer to enjoy the benefits of not cutting back at all until spring. This is because the astilbe seedheads look attractive and provide winter garden interest, while the stalks and foliage provide food and habitat for wildlife during the colder months.

2. Keep Watering Until the Frosts

Astilbe prefers moisture. Watering is especially vital during the flowering season, but continuing to water into the fall helps the plants stay strong into winter. Therefore, it is recommended to continue watering plants, as required, all the way through until the first frosts for your location.

The plants will require less watering than during the peak summer months, and natural rainfall will often suffice in the fall. However, if you have a warm fall or a lack of rain, keep a close eye on when to water plants.

Maksim Kazakou, resident botany expert at Plantum, claims astilbe 'thrives in wet soils' so requires regular watering when planted in 'regular' soil. He adds: 'If it hasn't rained for a while and the soil is dry, provide your plant with sufficient watering in the fall. This is a must for successful overwintering because this plant needs moist soil to survive winter.'

Give them an occasional deep watering, and the plants will remain healthy. Watering in the fall means strong and healthy roots, and wet soil is also beneficial as it stores more heat than dry soil. A soil moisture meter, like this one available at Amazon, can help to reveal when watering is required.

3. Mulch Plants to Keep Them Healthy

To keep astilbe healthy and protected for winter, mulch around plants in the fall with a two-inch layer of organic matter. Mulching helps by retaining vital moisture in the soil during fall and winter. This valuable layer also suppresses weeds and helps to boost soil nutrients as it breaks down.

The best types of mulch to use around astilbe are compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, shredded leaves and bark chippings. All of these mulches will insulate the plant's roots during the winter months, helping your astilbe survive winter and grow strongly in the spring.

Spread a 2-4 inch layer of mulch onto your flowers before the soil freezes, but avoid the mulching mistake of burying a plant's crown. This can lead to excess moisture trapped in the crown, causing rot or leaving the plant susceptible to disease. Always leaves at least a two-inch gap around the crown of perennials, or the stems of woody plants.

You can get bags of pine bark mulch at Walmart to spread in the fall, produced from northern pine and spruce trees.

4. Divide Clumps Every Few Years

While not a job to do every fall, dividing plants is recommended to be done every three or four years. As astilbe is a vigorous grower, the clump can become congested, which affects flowering and also leaves plants more susceptible to powdery mildew.

To keep astilbe healthy and blooming its best year after year, lifting and dividing plants helps rejuvenate clumps, plus there is the bonus that you get new plants for free to add to your flower beds or containers.

Another core reason to divide is that astilbe plants often rise in the ground over the years, which puts them in potential danger. 'Over time, the upper part of the plant's rhizome rises above the ground, which makes its buds prone to freezing,' warns Maksim Kazakou, adding that dividing and transplanting astilbe every few years keeps plants safe from harm.

The best time to divide plants is after flowering. The fall is an ideal time to do the task as the soil is warm and moist, and there is time to develop new roots before the frosts. If you miss the fall window, the other recommended time is early spring, when new growth starts to appear.

When it comes to how to divide plants, it can be done in the following steps:

1. Use a spade or garden fork to dig around the astilbe and carefully lift it from the soil.
2. Shake off as much soil as possible – this helps you get a good look at the plant
3. Divide the clump into sections with a spade or knife. You can divide astilbe into several sections, provided each one has healthy shoots and roots
4. Replant the new sections as quickly as possible in a part-shade spot
5. Water well, and continue to water as required to prevent the soil from drying out

FAQs

Will Astilbe Come Back Next Year?

Astilbe is a hardy perennial plant that dies back in the winter and starts growing again the following year. Astilbe can tolerate temperatures as low as -30°F, depending on the variety, making them hardy to US hardiness zone 4.

Will Astilbes Spread?

Astilbe plants will spread slowly over time through their underground rhizomes. They are not aggressive or invasive plants, but do benefit from large clumps being divided every few years to keep them as productive as possible.

Many trees, shrubs, and perennial plants can do with some TLC in the fall, even those known to be hardy. For more inspiration for the coming weeks, this guide to what to do with viburnums in the fall reveals the key tasks necessary to keep the popular shrubs healthy through the winter, and beyond.

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As we head into the coldest months, my mind is focused on getting my yard ready for winter to ensure all my plants are prepared for frosty temperatures. One of the biggest jobs is overwintering plants, including bringing some indoors, like rosemary.

You can grow rosemary in a range of regions, though it thrives best across US hardiness zones 8 to zone 11. It's fairly frost-tolerant, but not completely. In the coldest zones, rosemary is less likely to survive in an outdoor setting and is best overwintered indoors until spring. In milder climates, you can get away with leaving rosemary outdoors with some frost protection.

Either way, you should take steps to overwinter rosemary in fall before the first frost. To help you do it correctly, I've outlined the three easy steps I follow to bring my rosemary indoors for winter, plus tips on protecting it from frost in an outdoor setting.

3 Steps to Overwinter Rosemary Indoors

You should consider overwintering rosemary indoors if you live in US hardiness zone 7 or below. This is most convenient when growing rosemary in pots. However, it is possible to pot up planted out rosemary to bring inside.

1. Water Your Rosemary Plant Well

The first step to overwintering rosemary indoors is watering the plant well. This helps to prepare it for the change of location.

I tend to give my rosemary a deep watering a couple of days before moving it indoors. This provides time for the roots to soak up moisture, but also dry out just enough so handling the roots and soil isn't too tricky.

Of course, you should make sure you're not overwatering your rosemary. I always use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify if it's time to water my plants.

This is also a good time to do some light rosemary pruning in preparation for overwintering rosemary.

Use these pruning snips from Amazon to remove any leggy and damaged growth. This will set your rosemary up for new growth indoors.

2. Pot Up Your Rosemary Plant

If you plant rosemary in a border, it can gradually become a big shrub, sometimes reaching up to four feet in height.

A mature rosemary shrub is much more difficult to pot up to overwinter indoors. At this stage, you should turn to techniques to protect plants from frost. In mild climates, you may even find your mature rosemary is a herb you don't need to winterize.

However, smaller ground-planted rosemary plants can be potted up to overwinter. When doing so, use tools like this garden trowel from Amazon and ensure as much of the root ball as possible remains intact.

When potting it up, use a well-draining soil type. You can even purchase a specific herb potting mix from Amazon.

3. Place Your Rosemary In a Bright Spot

To overwinter rosemary successfully, it needs a location with lots of light. These herbs are native to the Mediterranean after all.

I find my rosemary plant is happiest when placed on my sunniest, south-facing windowsill. In fact, this is where I grow other drought-tolerant herbs, so it makes it easy to incorporate rosemary into my indoor herb garden for winter.

You can also place your rosemary in a well-lit conservatory or a greenhouse.

Ideally, your rosemary plant should get six to eight hours of sunlight daily. If you're struggling to provide this, use a grow light for houseplants. This grow light from Amazon has a timer function.

At the same time, your rosemary should be kept at a temperature between 55-65°F, which will keep it productive. You can use a heat mat (from Amazon) if you need to boost warmth levels.

Don't forget to also check your rosemary for any pests before bringing it indoors, so they don't spread to other herbs or houseplants.

Tips For Overwintering Rosemary Outdoors

You may consider leaving rosemary outdoors in winter if you live in US hardiness zones 8 or above, or if your rosemary is a substantial shrub too tricky to lift and move indoors.

In this case, it's important to put some frost protection in place to help your rosemary get through the harshest months.

This includes pruning to remove leggy and damaged growth, mulching at the base of the plant, and even using a frost cover (from Amazon) over it.

For potted rosemary plants you are keeping outdoors, consider wrapping the containers with burlap (from Amazon) for extra root insulation.

You should also consider moving potted rosemary to a more protected location, such as against a wall or under a shelter like a pergola.

FAQs

When Can I Move Rosemary Outdoors?

If you overwintered rosemary indoors, you can move it back outdoors in spring after the last frost. When doing so, you should expose your rosemary plant to the colder outdoor conditions gradually to acclimatize it and ensure a smooth transition.

With your rosemary settled indoors for winter, you can follow the same guidance as growing rosemary indoors. Bear in mind it will dry out more slowly during the colder months, and watering should be adjusted accordingly. Likewise, you should maintain good air circulation to keep it pest and disease-free.

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Mulching is an essential task in the fall, and you can choose between different materials. However, if you are like me and enjoy a gardening bargain, you may lean towards free mulch. Not only does it help your wallet, but it can also be more eco-friendly than getting deliveries of bagged products.

The good news is that many of the best fall mulching materials can be sourced for zero cost. Some may require a bit of effort, and others a friendly phone call, but there are ways to access free mulch if you are willing to give it a try.

From mulching large flower beds to raised beds, adding organic matter smothers weeds, retains moisture, and insulates plants against the cold. Whether you get enough materials for free may depend on the type of mulch you want and the size of the space. However, any free mulch is better than no free mulch, and where there's a will, there's a way.

7 of the Best Fall Mulching Materials

The following selection of the best fall mulching materials can be spread at any time until the soil freezes. The soil in the fall still holds summer warmth and moisture from the seasonal rains, but it pays to act quickly. Mulching flower beds and vegetable gardens is best done in September, October, or early November before the first frosts arrive in your climate.

1. Compost

Compost is an excellent fall mulching material. Made from a mix of materials, including garden waste, kitchen scraps, cardboard, and more, this wonderful natural material boosts soil nutrients and structure.

It is a material I regularly spread onto flower beds and vegetable patches during my years maintaining historic gardens, where we were fortunate enough to have the materials and space to make compost on a large scale.

I advise any gardener to grow their own compost to get this free resource. It can take three months to a year to make, depending on your method and materials, as homemade compost is ready when it is fully broken down, smells earthy, and has a crumbly texture.

If you don't already make your own compost, fall or spring are great times to start a compost heap to access crumbly, nutrient-rich, homemade goodness that will benefit any beds, borders, raised beds, or containers. You can buy a freestanding compost bin (like this 80 gallon composter at Amazon) or get compost tumblers.

2. Leaves

Leaves are a great free resource for a fall mulching material, and can actually be used in two ways. As they drop from trees in the fall, they can be collected and utilized with a bit of effort, but at no cost. Here's what to do with fallen leaves in the fall:

The quickest way to use leaves is to add them straight on top of the soil to mulch flower beds. It is advisable to chop them with a lawn mower, strimmer, or shears after collecting leaves and before spreading them, so they allow rain to penetrate down to the soil.

Alternatively, you can turn those fallen leaves into leaf mold if you are willing to wait a bit. You can make leaf mulch by collecting leaves into a bin or plastic bag and leaving them for at least a year. The leaves break down into rich leaf mold, which you can use as a fall mulching material.

A large-capacity outdoor compost bin like this at Amazon can make an ideal backyard composter for collected leaves.

We always spread a few inches of leaf mold each fall to mulch a large vegetable garden I worked in. But leaf mold can also be used on any flower borders or raised beds.

3. Cardboard

Cardboard is a free resource that many homes have in abundance. Instead of sending them off for recycling or storing them in a garage or attic, you can reuse cardboard in the garden as a mulching material.

Layers of cardboard will suppress weeds, keep moisture in the soil, and decompose to provide nutrients, including carbon, to plants. It is a fall mulching material I have spread on my allotments over the years to protect the soil from winter weather and keep weeds at bay.

It is important to avoid using heavily printed or coloured boxes, as coloured inks can introduce chemicals into the garden. Also, remove any tape, labels, or staples before using cardboard for weed control.

Good practice is to wet the cardboard after you lay it, and, unless you are covering it with topsoil, compost, wood chips or other material, to weigh it down to avoid it blowing away in strong winds. If you are making no-dig gardening beds, add a thick layer of organic matter on top of the cardboard.

4. Wood Chips

Wood chips or shredded bark from chopped-down trees or shrubs make a good mulching material for retaining moisture, suppressing weeds, and beautifying areas.

The materials can make areas around shrubs or trees look neat, without adding lots of nutrients as they break down slowly. If you want a longer-term mulch, this is a good route to go, and I have often used them to make paths around vegetable or cut flower beds.

If you have a shredder at home, you could get small amounts of material. However, large amounts of woodchips or bark may be easier to get than you may imagine. As many cities or municipalities charge arborists to dispose of their chippings, they are often happy to give it away to gardeners for free.

You can contact local arborists and tree trimming companies, or there are websites established to help gardeners get free wood chip mulch from arborists. To get this free fall mulching material, you will need to accept a bulk delivery and have a suitable, convenient drop-off location.

5. Grass Clippings

Using grass clippings after mowing as a mulch is a valuable way to add nitrogen to your soil, suppress weeds and retain moisture. Grass clippings can be added throughout the mowing season to ornamental or vegetable beds in thin layers, around 1-2 inches thick.

However, we know that fall is the end of the mowing calendar. The lawn will continue growing as long as the soil is warm enough, so you shouldn't stop mowing your lawn in the fall until the soil temperatures reach 45°F for cool-season grass and 50-55°F for warm-season ones. This can be in October or November, depending on local climates.

It can be worth checking with families, friends, and neighbors to collect their grass clippings to add to your own. The chances are high that many people may be happy to give you their clippings in the fall rather than discard them themselves.

You may not get enough clippings to mulch large beds in fall, but accumulating enough to add a 1-2 inch layer to raised beds can help boost the soil as it breaks down and stop any fall weeds from germinating.

6. Pine Needles

If you have pine trees growing on or around your property, the needles they drop in the fall can make a great free mulch. The needles are shed from August onwards and are easy to collect from around the tree with a rake and bags, buckets, or a tarpaulin.

The primary concern about using pine needles as mulch is that they can make the soil more acidic. However, you can relax, as this has been debunked in recent years. The acidity of pine needles lessens as they break down, so they don't impact the pH of the soil.

Pine needles decompose more slowly than other types of mulch, meaning they don't need replacing and last for two or more years. The needles also don't compact down and form a thick mat that rain can't penetrate; instead, they settle into a fluffy, light layer that allows rain to filter through but is sturdy enough that it doesn't get washed away during storms.

7. Seaweed

If you live within driving distance of the shoreline, fresh seaweed is a great fall mulching material that you can gather for free.

Whether you use it as a standalone mulch or mix it with other materials, seaweed contains small amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as minerals like copper, iron, zinc, and iodine, which it slowly releases to plants as it decomposes.

A bonus with using seaweed in the garden as a mulch is that it helps repel slugs and snails, thanks to its natural saltiness and its jagged edges as it dries. Spread a layer at least four inches thick, and expect natural shrinkage that may require a second application to cover any gaps.

You can collect seaweed to use as a garden fertilizer year-round. You can collect it from beaches without a license, but not from private property or National Parks. Avoid collecting seaweed from near industrial sites or the mouths of polluted rivers, as it can be contaminated, and you don't want to introduce anything harmful into the garden.

Always collect seaweed in moderation and cut it well above the base so it can regenerate. Don't pull it from the base, as this kills the plant and stops it from regrowing.

FAQs

Can I Use Old Straw for Mulch?

You can use old straw as a fall mulching material. However, you must ensure that the straw does not contain any old seeds that may sprout or that it has not been sprayed with herbicides if it comes from commercial agriculture.

No matter the material you use, there is always one major mulching mistake to avoid. This is piling mulch against the stems of shrubs and trees, which can cause rot and damage the plant. To prevent this, be careful when mulching and leave a 2-4 inch gap around woody stems.

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Mandevilla plants are striking tropical climbers native to hot climates, so it may come as no surprise that they only survive as perennials in US hardiness zones 10 and above. As they cannot tolerate cold, you need to overwinter mandevilla indoors unless you are blessed with a tropical or subtropical climate.

The stunning flowering climbers produce vivid trumpet-shaped blooms that attract hummingbirds and butterflies during the season. While mandevilla are fast-growing climbers that can be treated as annuals in cooler climates, it is not difficult to overwinter mandevilla indoors so you can nurture plants for several years.

You can overwinter mandevilla as a houseplant to enjoy foliage over the colder months, or let the plant go dormant and store it over winter to bring it out again in spring. This guide provides step-by-step instructions for both methods of growing mandevilla over winter, so you can confidently nurture your climbers.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla – Which Way Will You Choose?

Mandevilla is native to the warmer regions of North, Central, and South America. The fast-growing climbing plants can grow up to 10 feet each season and bring a tropical garden vibe to any space, making it a popular climbing plant for growing up a house.

While gardeners in tropical or subtropical climates can have their plants in the ground, those in cooler climates often grow mandevilla in pots to climb up trellises. These plants are then either discarded come winter or moved indoors to survive winter in one of two ways.

If you are new to bringing your tropical plants indoors, let first look at the steps to take to treat it as a houseplant and then how you can overwinter mandevilla indoors in a dormant state.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla As a Houseplant

If you grow mandevilla in a pot, it can be simple to move it into a warm and protected space for winter and treat it as an indoor plant to enjoy. However, even if your plant is in the ground, it can be lifted to bring indoors. The mandevilla won't flower, but you can still enjoy the glossy leaves.

To overwinter mandevilla as an indoor plant, follow the steps below:

1. Keep an eye on the local weather forecasts to bring mandevilla plants indoors when temperatures look set to drop below 50°F overnight, and certainly ahead of any freezing temperatures.
2. Trim the mandevilla to a compact, manageable size to fit indoors. The vines can be trimmed back by up to half with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears.
3. If the plant is in a pot, it can be as simple as moving the container. If the plant is in the ground, dig it up and pot it into a container filled with a well-draining potting soil for container gardening (like this Miracle-Gro potting mix at Amazon).
4. Inspect the plant for any pests, including aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs. These small insects can be dislodged with a hose or a spray with insecticidal soap (such as this Ready-to-Use Insecticidal Soap at Amazon).
5. Place the container in a sunny spot with lots of bright, indirect sunlight. A mandevilla requires a temperature of around 65-70°F throughout the winter and should be kept away from heat fluctuations caused by radiators, heating vents, or drafts.
6. Water the plant weekly to keep the soil moist and prevent it from drying out. Avoid over-watering plants (only water when the top two inches of soil are dry) and don't fertilize mandevilla during winter.
7. Come late winter, start to prepare the plant for the new season. Give it another trim, repot the plant if it needs it, and begin fertilizing once a month with a balanced liquid feed (like this concentrated liquid plant food at Walmart). The mandevilla can go outdoors once the temperatures are consistently above 60°F, after a period of hardening off.

How to Overwinter Mandevilla As a Dormant Plant

If you don't have the room to overwinter mandevilla as a houseplant, or cannot provide the right conditions for it to prosper, then the alternative is to put the plant into a dormant state to see it through the colder months. It can be done very simply in the following steps:

1. Bring the plant indoors once the temperatures drop to below 50°F and before the first frost (and pot it up if necessary).
2. Cut the plant back to 12 inches above the soil with a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears.
3. Place the container in a cool and dark location where temperatures are around 50°F, such as a basement or a frost-free garage.
4. Water the plant sparingly every few weeks – you only want to prevent the soil from drying out completely.
5. Once the plant starts breaking dormancy in the spring, move the plant to a warm, bright position and begin to water and feed the plant regularly.
6. Move the mandevilla back outside, after hardening off, once the temperatures are consistently above 60°F.

FAQs

What is the Lowest Temperature a Mandevilla Can Tolerate?

A mandevilla can tolerate temperatures as low as 50°F without showing any signs of damage. At temperatures below 50°F, the plants will struggle and start to drop leaves. At temperatures lower than 45°F, a mandevilla can be at risk of death. It is advisable to bring the plant indoors once night-time temperatures consistently drop close to 50°F.

Can Mandevilla Survive Winter in the Garage?

You can overwinter mandevilla in a garage as a dormant plant, providing the temperature stays above freezing. A window of 50-60°F is ideal, as the plant may break dormancy if temperatures rise above this.

If you are worried about losing mandevilla plants during winter, you can take plant cuttings as a backup. This can be done by taking softwood cuttings in early summer.

Take 4-6-inch cuttings of new growth and remove all leaves from the top half. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone (you can get rooting hormone powder at Walmart) and then place it into a small pot filled with potting mix. Place the cuttings in a bright location and keep them moist. They should root in around a month, when they can be potted up and grown indoors, ready to plant outside the following spring.

As a houseplant enthusiast, the fall months are a really exciting time. It's the season where we start to turn our attention indoors and it's a real opportunity to get creative with houseplants to create a calming green escape in the comfort of your own home. You'll be surprised, though, at just how many essential tasks I forget to do every fall.

And I'm not alone. Houseplant experts revealed to me there are quite a few indoor plant jobs every gardener forgets to do in fall. Even when paying close attention to your fall houseplant care checklist, these tasks often go incomplete.

I'm guilty of letting them fall to the back burner as I prioritize other jobs, but ticking these tasks off now truly makes a difference for getting your houseplants through the coldest months unscathed. Here, the experts share which indoor plant jobs every gardener forgets to do in fall and how to do them (spoiler: they're all super simple and will take just minutes out of your day).

3 indoor plant jobs for fall

Now is also a good time to start looking ahead at how to care for houseplants in winter and more importantly, winter houseplant care mistakes to avoid. All of these things are key to ensuring your houseplants remain healthy through colder, darker months.

1. Wash your windows

You don't even need to touch your houseplants to do this one. Washing your windows is essential to providing your plants with as much light as they can get during the coldest seasons.

'It's amazing how dirty your windows can get and how much your plants appreciate the extra light once the dirt is removed,' says Lisa Eldred Steinkopf, houseplant expert at The Houseplant Guru. 'If you can, wash or remove screens for fall and winter. They block 30% of the light,' she adds.

Paired with repositioning your houseplants closer to windows, this will allow them to soak up as much daylight as they can get during the months when it is limited.

Top tip: one of the best ways to clean a window without causing streaks is making a homemade solution with distilled white vinegar (from Amazon) and using microfiber cloths (from Walmart).

2. Check underneath leaves for pests

You may already think you're pretty on top of common houseplant pests, but fall is one of the most active time for pests as they retreat into your home for warmth and dry conditions.

These destructive insects are very good at hiding so you don't spot them, often choosing to sit on the underside of leaves. This means even if you're cleaning houseplant leaves to remove dust from the surface, you can miss hiding pests.

'For spider mites, look for early signs of infestation such as webbing or small crawling insects on the undersides of leaves and treat with insecticidal soap (from Amazon),' says houseplant expert and garden designer Lee Miller.

You can also make a homemade bug spray to help tackle any pests you come across, though it's important to research specific advice for the pest you are dealing with, such as getting rid of fungus gnats and getting rid of thrips.

3. Move houseplants away from heat sources

When we start to turn our heating on for colder days, a once optimal spot for your houseplant next to a vent can quickly become unfavorable.

'Heat sources could cause leaf scorch and dry out the soil prematurely,' Lee warns.

Depending on the type of houseplant you have, this can look like calathea leaves curling and weeping fig dropping leaves. So, it's best to relocate any plants sitting next to heat sources for the next few months.

When choosing a new spot for your houseplants, make sure not to move them too far away from windows, however. Daylight is limited during fall, so placing them as close as possible to bright windows but not near any heat sources is the sweet spot to aim for.

'You can also buy vent covers (from Amazon) that shoot the air across the floor instead of letting it blow up on your plants in the window,' Lisa suggests.

This is a good option for indoor gardeners who have limited alternative spots for houseplants to move to.

FAQs

How often should I water my houseplants in fall?

This depends on a couple of factors: the room temperature and the type of plant it is. If you have thirsty houseplants, like ferns, it's important to maintain consistent moisture levels through fall. However, be aware that your plants are likely drying out at a slower pace due to the room temperature being cooler than in summer. You can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check your houseplant's soil ahead of watering to ensure you don't end up overwatering and causing houseplant root rot. For the most part, houseplants will need watering a lot less frequently than in summer (sometimes as little as every couple of weeks) and it's always best to first check the soil to determine if your plant needs watering.

Don't worry if these indoor plant jobs every gardener forgets to do in fall weren't on your radar before, it's a common occurrence. Making the time to do them now is one step towards being a better plant parent and encouraging another healthy season for your houseplants.

I don't know about you, but now the fall months are here my attention has turned to a yard tidy up. With fallen leaves everywhere, spent blooms hanging onto their last days, and my lawn needing a last mow before winter, it's not looking the neatest out there right now. But, I'm restraining myself from doing a complete overhaul, as over-tidying your yard in fall is bad for hibernating wildlife.

It's something you should keep in mind if you want to prioritize eco-friendly garden ideas in your yard and if you have a wildlife garden that gets lots of visitors. More specifically, the likes of hibernating frogs, reptiles, and even some insects can be affected by the removal of garden debris during hibernation season.

This does pose the problem of knowing just how much to tidy in your yard in fall and what you should leave be. To help you out, I've gathered advice from wildlife experts who share why over-tidying your yard in fall is bad for hibernating wildlife, which creatures are affected, and what you should leave in place for them.

Why Over-Tidying Your Yard is Bad for Hibernating Wildlife

Before jumping in with the details of why you should avoid over-tidying your yard this fall, you may be wondering which wildlife tend to hibernate in a yard setting.

Of course, there is a large number of animals and insects that hibernate (or perform a similar form of overwintering) in gardens come winter, but to name a few of the most common in US backyards:

• Frogs and toads
• Reptiles, like snakes and lizards
• Ladybugs
• Some types of bees and butterflies

What to Leave in Your Yard for Hibernating Wildlife

'In the fall, after everything has bloomed and the leaves are falling, the left behind organic material becomes critical and needed habitats for hundreds of different species,' says David M. Burrows from pollinator project company, Arkearth.

David notes the number one way to stop over-tidying in fall for hibernating wildlife is not collecting all fallen leaves. The likes of toads often hibernate under leaf piles, even covering the entrance of their burrows with fallen leaves.

Likewise, beneficial insects and important pollinators like ladybugs and some butterflies (like the Mourning Cloak butterfly) may cluster under fallen leaf piles. Even queen bumblebees use fallen leaves for protection when hibernating by burrowing solitary in loose soil.

Of course, if you aren't keen to have leaves strewn all over your yard, you can create specific wildlife leaf piles. Do this by using this leaf collector from Amazon and creating intention piles for wildlife in desired spots of your yard.

As for dead plant matter, like logs and woody stems, it may surprise you to learn it's the perfect spot for mason bees and carpenter ants to settle down for the coldest months.

'They make holes in decaying fallen limbs and logs. These features become a safe haven for dozens of insect species for the cold months of winter,' David says. 'The holes and cavities in deadwood are like apartments where bees, caterpillars, ladybugs, and eggs are kept safe for spring,' he explains.

The same goes for many of the best plants for seedheads and spent blooms.

'Hollow stems are winter homes for bees,' notes Siobhan Shaw, sustainable gardening expert and founder of Growing to Give. 'Plus, on a frosty morning they catch the light in a way that is surprisingly beautiful,' she adds.

And while it is important for lawn health to do a final mow before winter, allowing it to remain long in some areas is vital for wildlife overwintering in your yard.

'Letting some areas of grass grow a little longer can support local wildlife by offering cover for insects, frogs, and small mammals looking for shelter,' says wildlife expert and co-host of Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom, Peter Gros.

'Even just leaving a patch or two to grow wild can make a big difference. You’ll be amazed how quickly nature moves back in when we give it a little space,' he says.

FAQs

Do All Birds Hibernate?

No, the majority of birds do not hibernate. The one exception is the Common Poorwill, a North American nightjar. Instead, the majority of birds migrate to southern regions where it's warmer. This includes the hummingbird migration, and there are actually lots of ways you can help overwintering hummingbirds.

Now that you know why over-tidying your yard in fall is bad for hibernating wildlife, you might be keen to also help and attract wildlife to your yard in fall. There are lots of things you can do, including incorporating the below features:

It's officially the busiest harvesting season and there are plenty of homegrown goods to collect from your fruit and vegetable patch this month. It's the perfect opportunity to gather some ingredients for cozy fall meals, all of which will taste a hundred times better than store-bought goods.

These crops to harvest in October should be at the top of your fall gardening checklist, as you don't want to leave it too long. They could become overripe, rot, and won't taste as pleasant otherwise. At the same time, harvesting too soon can also affect the flavor. But, October is the sweet spot for many popular crops, including plenty of root vegetables, leafy greens, and even some fruit.

Here, we talk through seven of the crops to harvest in October from your vegetable garden and kitchen garden, plus tips on how to harvest them correctly.

7 crops to harvest in October

As well these crops to harvest in October, there are also plenty of vegetables to plant in October for harvests in winter and spring.

Make sure to have essential gardening tools to hand for both harvesting and sowing, including this garden knife from Amazon.

1. Kale

Kale is a fast-growing vegetable you can plant in late summer and harvest by October.

'Kale is a super-nutritious crop to harvest this month as a cut-and-come-again crop. It is a hugely under-valued superfood that can be used in many different ways in the kitchen, plus you can keep harvesting it,' says Drew Swainston, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor.

It doesn't matter what variety you choose when growing kale, Drew notes the technique to harvest kale is the same across the board:

'Whether you are growing curly kale, red Russian kale, or Tuscan kale (also known as Cavolo nero), carefully remove the largest, outer leaves, which allows the smaller ones to keep developing for future pickings,' Drew describes.

'Only harvest a few leaves from each plant, and don’t take any from the top rosette, and you can get many pickings from your kale plants throughout the fall and winter,' he adds.

Use gardening scissors (from Amazon) to make clean cuts at the base of kale leaves.

2. Squash

Squash, gourds, and pumpkins are perhaps the image you have in your mind when you think of the fall vegetable garden. October is the prime time for harvesting any squash you have grown.

Whether you grow squash vertically, grow squash in containers, or grown squash in your vegetable patch, you should look for a few key signs they are ready to harvest.

Winter squashes (including pumpkins, butternut squash, and delicata squash) should be hard, the stem should be brown and dry, and your fingernail should not be able to easily pierce the rind. Another key indicator is the vine turning brown and crispy, as it dies back and indicates the fruit is mature.

You will need a sharp pair of pruning shears (like these from Amazon) or garden knife to make a clean cut on the vine. Aim to leave two-to-four inches of the stem attached to the crops.

3. Lettuce

There are lots of types of lettuce that can be harvested in October that have been sown in summer. In fact, you can grow lettuce throughout the year, with successional planting making it possible to harvest in every season.

To harvest lettuce, you can choose to take the whole crop or just individual leaves.

For the latter, remove the largest leaves from the outside of the plant. This will elongate the harvesting period through October as the crown remains intact and will continue growing new leaves.

To harvest the whole head of lettuce, use sharp essential pruning tools to cut it off the stem.

4. Parsnips

If you've grown parsnips this year, October is the time to check in for harvesting. These root vegetables can take up to four months to mature, so it's a rewarding job to finally pull them up in fall.

'The first parsnips from your spring sowings are ready to harvest in the fall, and in colder climates, they will taste all the sweeter when touched by the first frosts this month,' Drew advises.

'The frosts convert starches in the roots into sugars, which gives the crop a sweeter flavor. When the temperatures drop and the foliage dies back, it is time to begin harvesting,' he explains.

A hand garden fork (like this from Amazon) will help you with harvesting parsnips seamlessly.

'Place the fork deep into the soil near the parsnip. Loosen the soil around the root and then lever the parsnip out of the soil,' Drew describes. 'Try not to just pull hard on the parsnip, as you risk snapping the root in the ground.

'You don’t need to rush harvesting parsnips, as they are very hardy vegetables that can be left in the ground into winter,' he adds.

5. Quince

For a fruit that's ready to pick in October, turn your attention to your quince trees. This yellow citrusy fruit should have a golden appearance with a downy coating by fall.

You can grow quince trees across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9, where they start to set fruit over summer.

You can also tell your quince is ready to harvest by smelling it. By this point, it should be highly aromatic and easily twist off the tree.

Aim to pick quince before the first frost, though it's best to leave them on the tree for as long as possible for the best taste.

If you struggle to get your quince tree to fruit, consider making some adjustments. For example, your tree may need more sunlight exposure or a better watering regime.

Using this beautiful harvesting trug can make it a less strenuous task to collect quinces, which can be tricky to carry in large volumes.

6. Tomatoes

You may be surprised to find tomatoes on this list, but October is the last chance to harvest tomatoes that are still ripening on the vine. This is because frost will damage the fruit, leaving it mushy and flavorless.

So, check in with your tomato plants this month. Red tomatoes should easily come off the vine with some gently twisting. As for any green tomatoes, it's best to cut them from the main stem (using these pruning snips from Amazon).

You can then begin the process of ripening green tomatoes indoors. There are a few ways to do this, but one of the best tricks is using a brown paper bag (like these from Walmart) and placing green tomatoes in it with a ripe banana to ripen them.

The ethylene gas produced by ripe bananas will also help ripen green tomatoes.

7. Pears

Another fruit tree that will be ready for plucking from in October: pear trees. It makes for a sweet ingredient in warming desserts during the colder months.

When growing a pear tree, you'll know the fruit is ready for picking when it feels firm and easily twists off the tree.

Pears continue to ripen off the tree, much like bananas. That's why it's best to harvest pears while they still feel firm. You can leave them on the tree up until frost if needed, until they reach mature size.

You can then place your pears somewhere dry and at room temperature, like in a fruit bowl. They'll ripen over several days before being ready to eat.

FAQs

How do you store harvested parsnips?

To store harvested parsnips to keep them fresh for longer, there are a few things you can do. This includes brushing away soil without washing them, trimming their leafy tops, and packing them into damp sand, peat moss, or sawdust in wooden boxes. The medium should be kept moist, but not wet, and the crops should be layered so they're not touching. This can give your parsnips a shelf life up to six months.

Alongside harvesting, there are other important garden tasks to take on this month. For example, there are bulbs to plant in October and perennials to divide in October.

Shop harvesting essentials:

As summer fades and the air begins to cool, fall brings a new rhythm to the garden. It’s the season of soft light, rich color, and quiet transformation – but one in which it's vital to prepare for the months ahead.

Our fall gardening page celebrates this moment of change, blending practical tasks, from planting bulbs and dividing perennials, with the simple joy of being outdoors, perhaps rethinking design details that highlight fall’s distinctive palette of russets, golds, and deep greens.

So, whether you’re pruning, planting, or simply enjoying – or reimagining – the view, our expert garden team's fall gardening features are a reminder that your yard remains alive and ready for your attention right through the year.