Apricots are delicate, aromatic fruits that need to be picked from the tree at just the right time. The harvesting window opens in July, and understanding the indicators to look for ensures you pick glorious ripe apricots.

It all comes down to the look, feel, and smell of the fruit. It pays to closely monitor the tree over several weeks to get fruit at its prime, and when they tick all the right boxes, gently twist them from the tree and carefully place them in a basket or tray to avoid damaging the fragile fruit.

When you grow an apricot tree, you strive for the best yield. It often means gardeners go above and beyond to protect early blossoms from frost (which can be done with frost cloth like this on Amazon) or hand-pollinate flowers. With all that care to get an apricot tree to fruit, you should enjoy the best fruits. I spoke to two fruit experts about when and how to harvest apricots so you know a ripe fruit when you see one.

When to Harvest Apricots

Apricots want to be left to completely ripen on the tree. You may need to protect fruit from birds to preserve your harvest, as they find ripe apricots hard to resist. The best way to protect fruit is to cover the tree with netting or use mesh bags on individual apricots.

You can get individual drawstring protector bags for fruit at Amazon.

Sheryl Normandeau, an experienced fruit gardener and co-author of ‘The Prairie Gardener’s Go-To for Fruit', says the window for picking apricots tends to be July through August. She adds this warning: ‘If you see birds going after the fruit, you know you need to make a move, or you won't get any.’

The fruit expert explains how a ripe apricot should ‘not be green’ and have a ‘beautiful uniform yellow-orange color’ to the skin.

How long it takes different apricot varieties to reach this stage of ripeness varies, and can take up to three weeks, making it important to regularly check the tree to harvest apricots at their peak.

‘Apricots should be firm, but not rock hard; you should be able to just slightly press on the skin and notice a bit of softness beneath,’ adds Sheryl. ‘You may be able to smell the fruit as it is ripening on the tree.’

Katie Brines from Stark Bro's urges gardeners to ‘rely on your senses’ to judge when to harvest apricots. Look for the color, check the feel, and smell the sweet aroma.

She adds: ‘If in doubt, give them a taste.’ A ripe apricot has the classic sweet and tart flavor. If it tastes sour, it is not ripe yet.

How to Harvest Apricots

There is a simple technique for picking apricots to master. It is best to harvest apricots by hand, though you can carefully use a pole picker for tall trees. You can get an extendable fruit picker at Amazon that has a foam pad in the basket to prevent bruising.

‘When ready to harvest, a simple twist should easily separate the fruit from the tree,’ says Katie Brines.

It is important to be careful picking and handling apricots as the fruits bruise very easily. That includes when separating them from the tree and laying them into a basket afterwards. Any bruising or damage from being careless or heavy-handed will impact how long they store for.

Sheryl Normandeau recommends planning your harvests, including which fruits to target first. She advises: ‘The parts of the trees that are exposed to the most sunlight will likely bear the earliest-ripening fruit, so harvest from the top down and the outer edges inward.’

Apricots are best enjoyed quickly after picking. They can be stored in a single layer in a refrigerator for three to five days. If you do have more fruit than your household can eat quickly, apricots can be dried or preserved.

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To ensure all fruits on the tree ripen and no branches snap under the excess weight of fruit, it is often beneficial to thin the fruits on apricot trees.

Most trees do a natural drop in early summer, but sometimes further thinning of fruit trees is required. For apricots, there should be two to four inches between each developing fruit.

And for healthy trees season after season, prune apricot trees after you have enjoyed your harvest of summer fruits.

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Lemon trees adore hot, summer days, and a few key care tasks this month will keep them in top shape so you can continue to enjoy their fragrant flowers and fruits. I cared for a large citrus collection as a professional horticulturist, and here are my picks for what to do with a lemon tree in July.

The citrus trees grow strongly during the summer, and all that active growth means watering and feeding are crucial. You also need to keep a close eye on developing fruits and monitor for summer pests. I spent many hours watering, fertilizing, and monitoring the trees in summer, and the good news is that none of these tasks are difficult.

If you grow a lemon tree, such as this Meyer lemon tree at Fast Growing Trees, that can grow indoors or outdoors in the ground or a pot, summer care is crucial. Here I look at four key jobs that keep lemon trees thriving and reveal a few tips I picked over the years to help you grow a great crop of fruit.

1. Keep a Close Eye on Watering

Lemons are finicky when it comes to moisture, so it pays to know when and how to water citrus trees during the summer. They hate both extended periods of drought and having wet roots for too long – it can make watering a delicate balancing act.

I advise checking the moisture levels 2-3 inches under the soil surface using your fingers or a soil moisture meter – you can get an easy-to-use soil moisture meter at Amazon.

When the top inches dry out, water deeply and slowly rather than just a light sprinkling. It is better to give the tree less frequent, deeper waterings so the water reaches the roots, rather than little and often. If you grow a lemon tree in a pot, always water until it flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom.

If you let the soil completely dry out, you risk the flowers and fruits dropping, or any developing fruits splitting or drying out. The tree may also have curling or yellow leaves, or drop foliage due to a lack of moisture.

Be prepared to check trees in the ground every few days (certainly at least once a week) during a heatwave. Citrus trees in pots need checking daily and will need to be watered more regularly than those in the ground.

I always water early in the morning to allow the lemon trees to absorb as much water as possible before the temperatures rise later in the day. It is best to use rainwater wherever possible, such as from a rain barrel or rain chain.

2. Fertilize Trees

In July, the tree will be developing foliage, flowers, and fruits. In warm conditions, lemon trees can have flowers and fruits at the same time, making a stunning, aromatic display in the garden.

However, all that growth means the trees need a good supply of essential nutrients throughout the summer. If the trees experience a lack of nutrients during the year, you may see yellow leaves, a lack of flowers or fruits, or stunted growth.

The best choice for healthy lemon trees is always a specially formulated citrus fertilizer, such as this liquid citrus tree booster, available at Amazon.

Always fertilize citrus trees at the recommended rates, and avoid feeding plants during periods of extreme warmth. It can stress the trees, so wait until the temperatures return to normal for your climate.

3. Check For Pests

Many summer garden pests regularly trouble lemon trees. July is a prime time for pests such as aphids, spider mites, citrus leaf miner, and scale insects to be active and attracted to lemon trees. Any weak lemon trees due to heat or drought stress are more susceptible to these pesky pests.

Take some time this month to inspect the top and underside of leaves, stems, and fruits for signs of pests. Keep your eyes peeled for them or signs of their activity, including sticky residue, sooty mold, webbing, small bumps on the foliage, or curling citrus leaves.

When you spot any issues, take prompt action to prevent further issues, as large pest populations can affect the development of flowers and fruit.

Most pests can be knocked off the tree with a strong blast of water from a garden hose, and smaller ones can be wiped off by hand (it is not glamorous, but it does work). Alternatively, the likes of aphids, mites, and scale can be dealt with by spraying the tree with insecticidal soap.

Get bottles of ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart.

4. Assess the Fruits

Some lemon trees can have ripe fruits that need picking in July. This should be done once the color has developed, the rind is smooth, they have a slight give when squeezed, and the fruits can be gently twisted from the tree.

You may also need to thin fruit trees this month. A lemon tree will naturally drop fruits early in summer, but further thinning is required to give fruits the room to swell and ripen properly.

The best spacing is one fruit every 6-8 inches. If there are congested areas, snip off any small, deformed, or split fruits with a pair of clean pruning snips (such as these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips at Amazon).

This gives the remaining fruits space, ensures the tree can ripen all the fruits, and prevents branches from snapping under the weight of too many lemons.

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What is not recommended for July is pruning lemon trees. In certain cases, very minor trimming to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches is OK, as this preserves their health.

However, doing any major work is a pruning mistake that can stress the tree in the summer and leave it susceptible to pests and diseases. Doing so will also massively impact the production of fruit. Stick to showing your lemon tree some TLC in the ways outlined above and leave the pruning tools in the shed.

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Plucking homegrown fruit from your backyard is one of the summer joys many of us gardeners look forward to. By the time July comes around, our peach trees are producing delicious, juicy fruits, so they require a bit of attention.

If you're growing a peach tree in your garden, then you'll need to do some light pruning, keep on top of watering during hot spells, and check the fruit to see if it's ready to harvest this month, as well as remove any diseased fruit.

Neglecting these tasks now could hinder your harvest and the overall health of your tree. So, grab your harvest basket (I love the look of this wooden garden hod from Burpee) and head out to the yard. Here's what to do with a peach tree in July.

1. Prune Lightly

Knowing when to prune a peach tree is very important. Do it at the wrong time and you could remove flower buds, meaning no fruit.

Likewise, heavy pruning in summer can stress your tree and lead to its decline. That's why arborist Levi Williams advises only doing some light maintenance in July.

'As a rule of thumb, diseased or dead branches can be removed at any time and that includes July. Do not heavily prune trees during the summer months,' he says.

You should focus on removing the damaged branches and also thinning out any overcrowded, crossing branches. This will improve airflow and reduce the likelihood of disease, including peach leaf curl which distorts the leaves from excess moisture and causes them to drop off.

These Fiskars bypass loppers from Amazon can help you reach higher up your peach tree, and they'll make clean cuts.

2. Water Deeply

Watering is key when it comes to growing any fruit tree, but it's even more important to keep on top of during the hot summer months.

Letting a peach tree dry out in July can result in heat stress, stunting growth, dropping fruit and flowers, and even death in prolonged drought.

'Make sure to water trees heavily 1-2 inches of water per week,' Levi advises.

At the same time, you want to avoid excessive moisture when your peach tree is fruiting. This can cause the fruit to split and rot before you get the chance to harvest.

If in doubt, you can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check how wet your peach tree's soil is.

And if you're growing a peach tree in a pot (like this 'Elberta' peach tree from Plant Addicts), remember it will dry out much more quickly than those planted in the ground.

3. Check the Fruit

July to September is the typical harvest time for peaches, which means it's time to check your fruit for ripeness.

Peaches are ready to pick when there is no trace of green on the fruit and it has a creamy yellow or white hue, starting to blush. You can leave peaches attached until they fully blush for the sweetest taste, but because they're climacteric, they will carry on ripening off the branch.

They should also give a little when gently squeezed. Hard fruit is not yet ready to pick. Likewise, the peaches should come away from the stems with a gentle twist, and have a sweet aroma.

'Don't forget to also remove any fallen or rotten fruit to avoid pests,' Levi advises.

'And if a branch is full of fruit and causing them to bend, it is recommended to provide support for branches with props,' he adds.

You can use these fruit tree crutches from Amazon or create your own natural plant support by repurposing tree branches.

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FAQs

Do You Fertilize Peach Trees While They're Fruiting?

No, there isn't a need to fertilize peach trees while they're fruiting, unless it is nutrient deficient (which can be spotted by pale leaves and poor shoot growth). Instead, you should fertilize your peach tree in early spring to give it a boost of nutrients ahead of fruit production.

If you're struggling to get your peach tree to fruit, there are a few things you can do. This includes providing full sun exposure by pruning branches.

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Growing your own fruit has to be one of the most rewarding things to do as a gardener. One way to get more out of your crops is by propagating them, i.e. multiplying them and growing double as much fruit.

If you grow blueberries, you can propagate them through cuttings. It might seem daunting compared to propagating ornamentals, but the truth is blueberry plants are straightforward to multiply, especially through softwood summer cuttings. It is also possible to propagate via hardwood cuttings in fall, though this takes much longer.

There are only a handful of steps to successfully propagate blueberries from cuttings, and you don't need loads of tools either (though, picking up this rooting hormone powder from Amazon will boost your chances of success). Here, with insights from a professional gardener, I talk through each step so you can harvest even more juicy berries from your backyard.

1. Take Healthy Cuttings

'Blueberries can be propagated from hardwood (old growth) or softwood (new growth),' says market gardener, Cody Deluisio.

'Softwood cuttings can be taken from early spring into mid-summer. Hardwood cuttings are taken after the leaves have fallen off in the fall,' he explains.

Softwood cuttings tend to provide faster results, as they take root much more easily. But, hardwood cuttings are thought to be more low-maintenance to manage, so there are benefits to both.

Whichever you choose, the first step is to identify and take healthy cuttings.

'Start by cleaning sharp gardening snips with rubbing alcohol. You want them to be very clean,' Cody says.

This will prevent the spread of pests and diseases, and ensure plant health is maintained. These Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon will easily cut through both old and new growth.

For softwood, look for new growth that is flexible and green, and has several sets of leaves. 'Cut 4-6 inches of healthy stem right where it goes to hardwood at a 45° angle,' Cody describes. Take care to cut just below a leaf node, as this is where roots will emerge.

To take hardwood cuttings later in the year, rather focus on last year's growth. This will be the woodier stems, around a pencil's thickness, and 6-10 inches in length. You should cut half-an-inch above a bud, also at a 45° angle.

2. Prepare the Stems

The next step to propagate blueberries from cuttings is cleaning the stems, i.e. removing unnecessary foliage.

'Strip all leaves of but the top two,' Cody advises.

Leaving lower leaves can risk rotting when the cutting is in soil, and also drain's the plant's energy. You can use your fingers to pinch them off or these gardening micro snips from Lowe's to cut them off cleanly, redirecting the cutting's energy into rooting.

For hardwood cuttings, there won't be foliage to remove as the plant is dormant.

For both types of cutting, it's recommended to dip the end in rooting hormone. This is a powder (it also comes in gel form, like this rooting hormone gel from Amazon) that contains plant auxins responsible for rooting.

'Rooting hormone is optional but greatly improves success,' Cody notes.

3. Plant the Stems

With your cuttings prepped, the next step is to plant them in a well-draining, acidic soil to help them root.

'Put the cutting into an acidic mix, either a store-bought acidic potting mix (like this from Walmart) or 50/50 peat moss and perlite (which you can purchase from Amazon),' says Cody. 'Place the end of the cutting approximately two inches deep and firm the soil around it,' he describes.

Blueberries are acidic-loving plants, so if needed you can make your soil more acidic for both your existing shrubs and new plants.

'Soak the soil and let it drain for 15-30 minutes,' Cody says.

4. Find a Home For Your Cuttings

Where you keep your blueberry cuttings depends on whether they're hardwood or softwood.

'For softwood cuttings, place the container in a greenhouse or a bag to keep humidity up. Make sure it gets indirect sunlight,' Cody describes.

You should maintain consistent moisture and a temperature between 68-77°F. These humidity domes from Amazon can be useful to use if you aren't able to provide a greenhouse. Take care to place the cuttings somewhere with bright light.

Hardwood cuttings don't need so much humidity because they are dormant and leafless. Instead, keep them somewhere bright and cool, and maintain consistent moisture without becoming soggy in winter conditions.

A cold frame (you can find affordable portable cold frames at Walmart), unheated greenhouse, or a sheltered wall are the best options for hardwood cuttings.

5. Regularly Check Your Cuttings

One of the biggest propagation mistakes for any plant is neglecting your cuttings and expecting them to still take root. Instead, you should be regularly checking on cuttings.

Softwood blueberry cuttings usually root within six to 10 weeks, while hardwood cuttings take several months.

You should maintain high humidity and moisture for softwood cuttings, while watching out for overly wet soil and temperature fluctuations for hardwood cuttings.

This soil moisture meter from Amazon can help you get watering right by identifying the moisture level in soil for you.

Give your cutting a gentle pull to check whether it has rooted before planting up.

'Take care not to tug for at least six weeks, the roots will be very weak and can be easily broken,' Cody warns.

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If you're struggling to get a harvest out of your blueberries, read up on our guide to getting a blueberry bush to fruit. One of the most important aspects to get blueberry bush pruning right, to keep your plant healthy and strong.

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Thinning fruit trees is an important summer task that helps you get the best harvests. It may sound counterintuitive, but removing small fruitlets means higher-quality fruits come picking time.

If you are growing apples, pears, plums, peaches, or apricots, thinning fruit trees between mid-June and mid-July rewards you with larger harvests and reduces the risk of branches snapping due to the stress of excess fruit. Up to 50%-75% of small fruitlets can be removed by hand or with small pruning tools.

Thinning fruit trees may sound daunting, but it needn’t be. To remove any potential confusion, I spoke with fruit tree experts about why, when, and how to thin. This guide also reveals the ideal spacing for the most popular types of fruit trees.

An Expert Guide to Thinning Fruit Trees

Many fruit trees, including apples, pears, plums, and peaches, do a ‘June drop’, whereby they naturally shed small fruits in early summer. They do this to focus on a select number of fruits, and gardeners shouldn’t panic if it happens to their trees.

However, even after a ‘June drop,’ you may still need to go out thinning fruit trees to guarantee you get the best yield.

A good pair of pruning shears, like these Felco F2 pruners at Amazon, can make a sound investment and be used for thinning and pruning fruit trees for many years.

Benefits of Thinning Fruit Trees

Even though it may sound counterintuitive, intentionally thinning the number of young fruits developing offers several benefits for any fruit tree. Whether you have an orchard or a few fruit trees in pots on a patio, thinning fruit trees helps them produce the best crop possible year after year.

Primarily, the main reason for thinning fruit trees is to maximise the harvest. It is required because, as Susan Poizner, fruit tree expert and founder of Orchard People, notes, the trees have a habit of producing ‘more fruitlets than they can realistically support’.

‘If you leave them all on the tree, you’ll usually end up with lots of fruit, but the quality won’t be great. The fruit tends to be smaller, and the branches can become overloaded,’ explains Susan.

‘Thinning helps the tree focus its energy on fewer fruits, which means larger, better-quality, and sweeter harvests.’

Thinning fruit trees not only boosts this year’s crop, but can help next year’s, too. It is especially the case with apple or pear trees, which can start to crop biennially – this is when a heavy crop one year is followed by a small or no crop the next. Thinning fruit trees helps prevent the trees from falling into this cropping habit.

Also, thinning fruit trees reduces the risk of branches snapping under the weight of lots of developing fruits. If lots of fruit are left, the branches (which naturally bend but can only take so much strain) can break under the stress. Not only does this mean you lose a productive arm, but the resulting wound is susceptible to pests and diseases.

You can help protect fruit-laden branches with supports, such as these tree crutches at Amazon.

What Fruit Trees Need Thinning

Most fruit trees benefit from thinning, but not all. The likes of apples, peaches, pears, plums, nectarines, apricots, and persimmons all respond well to thinning. If you have any of these, add thinning fruit trees to your early summer gardening checklist.

Some fruit trees don’t need thinning, though. For example, Susan advises: ‘Cherries generally don’t need it because they don’t tend to overproduce in the same way.’

When to Thin Fruit Trees

Young trees can suffer from being cropped too heavily in their tender years. Susan recommends gardeners to remove all baby fruit from apple, peach, apricot, pear, and plum trees for the first two years after planting the fruit tree in your yard.

‘It can feel heart-breaking, but it allows the tree to put its energy into establishing strong roots and healthy branches rather than producing fruit too soon,’ she adds.

Going forward, timing is key when thinning fruit trees. The ideal moment for thinning fruit trees comes after they have done their natural ‘June drop’. Allowing the trees to first naturally shed fruits and then thinning as required prevents you from ending up with little to no fruit.

It is best to go soon after you spot evidence of the ‘June drop’ around your trees. Susan advises: ‘A good rule of thumb is to thin when the fruit is about the size of a nickel.’

If you wait too long, and the fruit gets larger, the benefits of thinning aren’t felt as much. As Loren Taylor, a seasoned landscaper and gardener, says: ‘Doing it early means the tree has not wasted energy on fruit you are going to remove anyway.’

The take-home advice is to wait until after the ‘June drop’ and aim to finish thinning fruit trees in early July.

How to Thin Fruit Trees

The goal with thinning fruit trees is to leave as much fruit as the tree can ripen and the branch can support. It will depend on each particular tree, but don’t be afraid of thinning fruit trees – you have got to be cruel to be kind.

‘It sounds a lot, but aim to remove between 50% and 75% of the fruit so those that are left are better quality,’ Chris Bonnett, plant expert and founder of Gardening Express.

While this may seem a lot, if the fruits are crowded when young, it’ll only get worse as they develop, and they will never reach full size.

Look to keep the largest fruit and first remove any that are small, damaged, or misshapen. This can be done with your hands, by pinching or twisting the fruit off the stem. But do so carefully, as pulling too hard on small fruits can damage the branches.

Or, you can use small pruning tools, such as shears or pruning snips – this is advisable with apples and pears, which both have woodier stems than other young fruits. A perfect tool for the task would be these Fiskars pruning snips, available at Amazon.

The Ideal Spacings When Thinning Fruit Trees by Type:

• Apples: When growing apple trees, the fruits should be thinned to one fruit per cluster. Good apple fruit thinning should leave one fruit every six to eight inches along the branch. It is advisable to remove the ‘king’ fruit at the center of the cluster, as this habitually ends up deformed.
• Pears: Pear trees are best thinned to leave one or two fruits per cluster, with around six inches between developing fruits.
• Peaches: For peaches and nectarines, thin the fruits to one every four to six inches apart. This level of peach tree thinning gives the remaining fruits adequate space to reach a good size.
• Apricots: Thin apricot trees so there are two to four inches between each developing fruit
• Plums: Thinning plum trees should be done so there is one fruit every three or four inches along the branch

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To keep them healthy, understanding when to prune fruit trees ensures you trim them at the right time of year. There are differences between trees, and it is not always a winter task. While the likes of apples, pears, and figs want pruning in late winter or early spring, stone fruits, such as cherries, peaches, nectarines, and plums, are best pruned in late spring or summer to prevent silver leaf disease.

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I'm growing strawberries for the first time this year and the biggest problem I've faced is keeping birds off them. The most failsafe solution has been putting a protective barrier in place to stop these winged garden visitors getting to my crop.

If you're also struggling to protect soft fruits from birds, then I can't recommend enough using a cloche. I've been using fabric mesh ones, but these Amazon metal strawberry plant cloches have caught my eye because they seem much more durable. They even come with supports to hold the fruit safely off the ground, stopping rot and keeping the berries safe from soil-borne diseases.

I prefer the idea of using a metal cage cloche because it's harder for birds, squirrels and rodents to rip open. It also provides plenty of ventilation for the plant. The fact you get six in this pack is ideal, and the best part is they're modular and can be connected to make bigger cages, offering protection for a whole row of strawberry plants and other crops.

A Bird-Proof Barrier

While there are a few methods to keep birds away from strawberry plants (like the strawberry red rock decoy hack), I personally think there's nothing more effective than putting a physical barrier in place.

You can purchase soft mesh cloches, like this set from Walmart, but I like the Amazon metal strawberry plant cloches because they're constructed of sturdy steel wire. This is much harder for birds, squirrels, and rodents to break through than a softer material.

The other benefit is the fact these cloches are open with lots of ventilation. This keeps the plant healthy by improving airflow and helping to prevent powdery mildew and other strawberry diseases.

I also love the fact the six cloches can be customized, with interconnectable panels. This means if you have a long row of strawberry plants (or any other vulnerable crops) you can build a singular longer cloche.

Not only do these cloches provide a bird-proof barrier for your strawberry plants, they also come with growing trays to hold the fruit off the ground. This keeps it safe from destructive insects on the ground, soil-borne diseases, and rot.

In this way, these Amazon metal strawberry plant cloches protect fruit from all kinds of strawberry pests, not just birds.

More Ways to Protect Strawberries

Like I mentioned, there are several other tried and tested ways to protect strawberries from birds and other pests, so you can ensure they don't get to your sweet, juicy harvest before you do. Below are some of my top picks:

Protecting strawberries from birds is just one way to boost your yield. Getting strawberry fertilizing right is also important and it can help you grow bigger strawberries.

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Just because you have a small garden, doesn't mean you can't grow your own fruit. I've been longing to add fruit trees to my garden, but simply don't have the space for the likes of a towering apple tree. That's why I've been looking at alternatives and finally landed on the perfect pick: blueberry bushes.

Of course blueberries don't directly replace apples as a crop, but to fulfil my kitchen garden fantasy, they're much easier to work with in a small garden. They take up less space, can be easily grown in pots (especially the native variety 'Lowbush' blueberry from Plant Addicts), and they don't rely on multiple shrubs for cross-pollination. Plus, they crop far sooner than apples, providing quicker gratification.

Just like large apple trees, blueberry bushes even have their own beautiful spring blossoms and fall foliage, ticking the box for ornamental value. So, if you're also tight on space and want a reliable, productive fruit to grow, keep reading – here's why you should consider blueberries over apples.

The Problem with Apple Trees in Small Gardens

There are several reasons why apple trees aren't the most ideal fruit trees for small gardens.

The most obvious point being they can tower with large canopies. Not only does this take up ground space with large trunks, it also casts shade over your limited outdoor space, taking away opportunities to grow sun-loving plants elsewhere.

Of course, there are compact apple tree varieties (like this 'Scarlet Sentinel' columnar apple tree at Fast Growing Trees), but maintenance is still very particular.

Apple tree pruning is quite specific, for example. You need to prune these trees in a way that improves air circulation, maintains shape, and encourages fruiting wood. This is laborious (although made easier by an electric pruner, like the Felco 2e pruning shears on Amazon), and if you get it wrong, you could stunt your apple harvest.

The majority of apple trees also don't self-pollinate, so you often need a second tree nearby for a reliable and higher yield. When you're tight on space, this isn't an easy thing to achieve.

Another common issue with apple trees in small gardens is they have a few pests and diseases to keep an eye out for. Apple scab, powdery mildew, and woolly apple aphids are particularly problematic. In a smaller garden, these issues are at a higher risk of spreading fast.

With all of this in mind, I've decided blueberries are a more achievable and manageable fruit to grow successfully in my small backyard. Here's why.

Why Blueberries Are Better for Small Gardens

For someone like me with a smaller yard, every inch of outdoor space counts. That's why blueberries are replacing apples in small gardens, as it demands much less space.

Blueberry shrubs are typically self-fertile and can produce a crop without a second plant for cross-pollination, though planting two or more varieties will boost your harvest. You should pick two varieties blooming at the same time, for example this 'Blue Jay' blueberry from Nature Hills and this 'Patriot' blueberry from Plant Addicts both blossom between April and May.

Not needing multiple shrubs, is a lot less demanding of space than needing to grow multiple apple trees.

Plus, blueberries are one of the easiest fruit to grow in pots (compact varieties are the best choice for containers), which is more favorable in a smaller yard, courtyard garden, or even on a balcony garden.

In fact, blueberry shrubs are often best grown in containers because they require an acidic soil type to thrive and bear fruit. This is far easier to control when growing in pots.

Blueberry bush pruning is also more forgiving than apple trees. It focuses on removing damaged and dead wood to encourage new growth.

And when it comes to pests and diseases, blueberry bushes are susceptible to the likes of mummy berry, botrytis blight, and more. However, it's easier to keep these at bay than apple tree problems, for example by maintaining good air circulation (you can use these Fiskars bypass pruning shears to remove crossing branches) and drainage in pots.

If you're battling with birds eating your blueberries, simply place this fruit bush netting from Lowe's over the shrub.

Blueberry Varieties to Try

There are so many different types of blueberries to grow, with pretty much all of them being suited to some form of a smaller garden, whether a tiny yard, balcony, or even in a window box.

If you like to prioritize native planting, then 'Blue Jay' blueberry (available at Plant Addicts) is a good choice. It's a larger shrub with a mounded habit, reaching 6-7ft in height, so it can work in borders and large pots. In fall, its dark green foliage turns a beautiful purple-red.

'Patriot' blueberry (also available at Plant Addicts) is an early-season option, ready to harvest from late June. It's loved for being a particularly productive shrub, yielding 10lbs or more of fruit once mature. This blueberry shrub typically reaches 4-5 feet, once again working well for gaps in planting or larger pots.

For a variety to grow in hanging baskets, window boxes, and vertical gardens, 'Sapphire Cascade' blueberry (which you can find at Plant Addicts) is the option for you. It was bred specifically for smaller spaces, with a trailing habit that turns it into an edible botanical spectacle.

You can use this vertical garden pocket plant on Amazon to create an edible living wall with 'Sapphire Cascade.'

'Sunshine Blue' blueberry (which you can find on Amazon) is another popular choice for container growing. It's a semi-evergreen compact shrub with pink-white spring flowers. It has a sweet, sugary berries ready to harvest in summer.

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If you have embarked on growing blueberries for the first time, read our guide on how to get a blueberry bush to fruit. There are a few tricks you can do to increase your yield.

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Grape vines may conjure images of sprawling vineyards, but they can be grown in smaller spaces by encouraging them vertically up a wall or fence. June is a crucial month for the development of fruits, and a few key tasks help you get the best harvest in late summer or early fall.

This month is an opportune time to prune stems and thin fruits to help the grapes ripen. Also, regular watering and a June feed will help those currently small fruits develop into larger ones for picking. And you will need to protect your crop from pests this month if you grow grapes outdoors.

An important aspect of understanding how to grow grapes is adopting the right seasonal care. True, caring for grapes does need patience and attention, but this is more than worth it when you harvest the bunches. I have maintained and cropped vines in greenhouses over the years, and here are five tasks I believe may stand between a satisfying and a disappointing harvest.

1. Give Vines a Summer Prune

Knowing when to prune grape vines is crucial. The major pruning takes place in winter, when the vines are dormant, but there are benefits from giving them a light summer prune, too.

Cutting back shoots in early summer thins weak or crowded shoots and removes excess foliage, improving air circulation and sun exposure. These are essential factors in successfully ripening the fruits and preventing fungal diseases, including powdery mildew.

As for how to prune grape vines this month, use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools to cut back shoots to two sets of leaves past a developing bunch of grapes. You can also nip out leaves growing around the fruit, so that sunlight can reach the grapes.

Prune out any stems that aren’t carrying fruit to ensure the plant doesn’t waste energy, unless you are keeping them to develop the future framework of the vine.

An additional summer trimming task is to scour the trunk and remove any suckers or shoots that appear. Again, this prevents the vine from wasting energy on developing unwanted growth.

2. Thin the Fruits so the Rest Can Swell

Once the vine has started producing berries, it is an opportune time to thin the fruits. Often, a vine starts developing more fruit than it can sustain all the way through to harvest.

If you leave all the fruits, you’ll get lots of small, disappointing, inedible grapes. It may seem counterintuitive, but removing fruits gives you a better crop, as the remaining ones will swell further and ripen fully.

An easy method to adopt is to thin the developing clusters, leaving only one or two per shoot. The remaining bunches will swell, and you’ll have bigger and better grapes to pick.

Also, removing excess clusters also improves air circulation and sunlight (like when removing foliage) to keep the vines healthy.

Some growers will also hand-thin berries to remove one in three grapes. This technique will help you get bigger grapes, but it can be very tricky, and is not completely necessary for home gardeners.

A useful tool for thinning clusters of developing grapes can be a pair of garden snips. A product like these Fiskars pruning snips, available at Amazon, has sharp, straight micro-tip blades to get into smaller gaps when precision is needed.

3. Tie in New Shoots so the Vine Is Supported

Grapes are vigorous climbers that need to be trained. This can be to a fence, wall, or trellis, or the plants can be grown up a pergola or arbor.

Wherever you grow grapes, June is a great time to check all the stems and ensure that the shoots are trained and tied in. They must remain supported as the bunches develop to avoid losing grapes as stems snap or are damaged during the summer.

The best plant ties are soft and won’t damage the stems as they grow. Twine is a common material, or you can use reusable soft ties, or flexi-ties. These Velcro garden ties, available at Walmart, are great options as they are soft, non-slip, and reusable.

4. Water and Feed Vines to Support Developing Grapes

How much you need to water a grape vine in June will depend on where it is growing. Vines with their roots growing indoors, such as in a greenhouse, may need more watering than those outdoors.

Grape vines like consistent moisture. During dry periods, which can occur in early summer, keep a close eye on the soil’s moisture levels and water vines deeply if needed – a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, offers a quick and easy way to check.

It is an important time to be diligent with watering, as drought stress can affect the fruiting or even cause the vines to drop fruit in extreme circumstances. The best approach is to water deeply and soak the base of the vine, rather than the foliage, so the moisture gets to the roots.

Once the grapes start to swell, feed the vines with a high-potassium liquid feed to help them develop healthily. An ideal product for this is a liquid tomato feed, such as this tomato booster fertilizer at Amazon.

Mix the liquid concentrate in a watering can and apply it when you water plants. A weekly or fortnightly feed is beneficial until the grapes start to ripen, usually indicated by the color changing.

5. Protect Fruits From Pests

Developing fruits are at risk in early summer. You may be looking at them and imagining the harvests to come, but birds and wasps are also likely eyeing up your fruits. June is a good time to protect your pickings.

To protect fruits in your yard, you can cover the entire vine in garden netting. For a physical barrier, fine netting (you can get 8 x 20 feet garden netting at Walmart) can be draped over the vines.

This needs to be secured to the ground with landscape staples (you can get a 50-pack of landscape staples at Ace Hardware) or heavy weights, to prevent birds from sneaking in and getting stuck.

Rather than covering an entire vine, individual bunches of grapes can be covered with mesh bags. Using fine mesh or organza mesh bags to protect crops works perfectly. It allows light, air, and water through, but stops pests from getting to the fruits. You can get 100 fruit protection bags at Amazon to use on various fruits.

Alternatively, decoys and deterrents can be placed around the vines to deter birds. Hanging old CDs, DVDs, or balls of aluminum foil can deter pests as they catch and reflect the light to startle birds. Or you can use decoys like scarecrows, owls, or flying hawk kites.

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June is a significant month for many different fruits, not just grapes. That includes if you are growing raspberries. In early summer, those with early varieties of summer-fruiting raspberries can start to enjoy picking the sweet fruits.

Aside from harvesting, raspberry plants in June need watering to plump up the fruits, feeding to encourage ripening, and weeding, so the canes get all the water and nutrients available in the soil.

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June is primarily a month when blueberry bushes are developing fruit. In some climates, the season may have arrived, but for most gardeners, it is a time to nurture plants to guarantee fresh pickings of tasty, highly nutritious berries come midsummer.

Watering and protecting the crop are top priorities, along with feeding in certain circumstances, such as when you are growing blueberries in containers. As the crop is steadily growing, giving it the water and nutrients it needs guarantees good-sized berries, and protection stops birds from robbing your berries before you get to enjoy them.

If your fruits are ready, pick away. If yours aren’t, the season is tantalizingly close, and what you do this month can make a big difference. I always keep a close eye on my blueberries in early summer, as I don’t want to lose any of those precious berries currently on the bush. When it comes to what to do with a blueberry bush in June, I always recommend these tasks.

What to Do With a Blueberry Bush in June: 4 Key Tasks

Before getting on to those all-important steps that will help a bush develop its burgeoning fruits, a mention does need to be made for those lucky homeowners for whom blueberry season has started.

June is the start of the peak harvesting season for blueberries in the US. The season in North America runs from June to August, but the exact timing depends on location, weather, and the type of bushes. Growers in the south-east, south-west, and parts of the Mid-Atlantic usually expect to be picking in June.

If your fruits are ready, enjoy harvesting blueberries in June. As blueberries ripen gradually across any bush, pick fruits that are blue throughout every few days to get them at their peak.

A ripe blueberry should easily detach if you roll the berry between your thumb and index fingers. Or you can get a berry picker to run over the bushes to separate the fruits from the bush, like this berry picker with a metallic comb at Amazon.

1. Protect Fruits From Birds

For many growers, blueberry bushes will be busy developing those tasty fruits in early summer. You want to get a blueberry bush to fruit prolifically and develop a plethora of berries. What you don’t want is to lose all those fruits to unwanted visitors, in this case, birds.

Birds are attracted to developing fruits for essential calories and water. To stop them from ransacking your blueberry bush this month, the best tactic is to protect soft fruit in your yard with garden netting.

A mesh netting with holes no larger than five mm by five mm should suffice to protect soft fruits in your yard, such as this garden netting at Amazon.

It is best to place the netting over a frame. Don’t just sit it on the bushes, as the birds can just sit on the netting and peck the berries through the netting if it is touching the plants.

Any netting must be secured to the ground, with weights or landscape staples, available at Amazon, too. This prevents birds from getting in, only to get trapped under the netting.

Or you can get fruit cages to put over blueberry bushes, like this six-foot by eight-foot by four-foot plant cage at Wayfair.

2. Water Plants in Dry Spells

Blueberries need consistent moisture as they develop and ripen. As the plants have shallow roots, regular watering can often be required in early summer, especially during dry periods.

Blueberry bushes ideally want 1-2 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or additional watering, but this need increases when they are developing fruits. A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, offers a quick, simple way to see if your plants need watering.

Deep watering is always recommended (so the moisture soaks into the soil), and it is ideally done in the morning. A shorter sprinkling of moisture could see most of the water lost due to evaporation before the bushes' roots can take it in. If this happens and the top layer of the soil dries out in the summer, bushes often react to heat stress by dropping fruits.

Blueberries prefer acidic conditions, so they want to be kept well-watered with rainwater, which has a lower pH than tap water.

Their desire for rainwater makes rainwater harvesting important when you grow blueberries and other acid-loving plants, so consider adding a rain barrel to your yard to collect this precious, natural resource.

3. Keep Your Eyes Peeled for Pests

Early summer can be a prime time for blueberry pests that may affect your yield. It is advisable to check the plants regularly for signs of damage or infestation. Check the leaves, shoots, flowers, and fruits for holes, wilting, or other insect activity.

Pests, including aphids, flea beetles, spider mites, cutworms, Japanese beetles, blueberry maggots, and spotted-wing drosophila, can affect bushes in early summer.

Smaller pests, such as aphids and spider mites, can be combatted by spraying them off with a jet of water or using insecticidal soaps (you can get ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart, though these sprays can also affect beneficial insects, so they need to be used with caution).

It may seem unpleasant, but small infestations of larger pests can be hand-picked. For a less squeamish way to prevent pests, use fine insect-proof netting with holes under 1mm (such as this insect netting at Amazon) to stop all manner of blueberry pests, or use companion planting to deter pests and encourage natural predators.

If you are after good natural pest control plants to repel both aphids and spider mites, opt for dill or marigolds.

4. Feed Blueberries in Pots

You can grow blueberries in pots, and when you do, they need to be fed much more regularly than plants growing in the ground. It becomes an important task throughout the summer to get the best crop of berries.

Bushes in the ground may need just one feed per year in spring. However, when growing fruit in pots, you need a consistent fertilizing regime. I tended to feed blueberry bushes in containers every few weeks during the growing season.

In June, the bushes need lots of nutrients to develop and ripen fruits. They can all too easily use up all that goodness in the limited soil in the container. To ensure they have the nutrients they need, fertilize blueberries with a liquid ericaceous fertilizer every two or three weeks from April to September.

Use a product like this acid-loving plant fertilizer at Amazon. Simply mix it at the recommended rate in a watering can, and apply when you water plants.

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As mentioned throughout this guide, blueberries prefer acidic soil. It is beneficial to check your soil pH each spring to ensure it remains suitable for the plants. You can get a simple, effective soil test kit from Amazon to get professional lab analysis and results.

If the results show the pH is too high, you can make the soil more acidic by adding sulfur, iron sulfate (get iron sulfate soil conditioner at Walmart), or aluminum sulfate. It may not have the same immediate impact as some of those outlined above, but you can also use spent coffee grounds as a soil amendment.

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Often described as low-maintenance and easy to grow, mulberry trees can be a wonderful addition to your garden. In May, however, they require careful upkeep: you'll need to fertilize, water regularly, and avoid hard pruning your mulberry tree before it starts to bear fruit.

Steady moisture and balanced nutrition is crucial for mulberry trees at this time of year; it's what helps them to produce lush foliage and bigger berries. The fruit itself should start to appear in late June – though it's worth noting that mulberry trees can take up to 10 years to fruit, if planted from seed.

Nevertheless, growing mulberry trees really is a rewarding endeavor, and it's sure to bring plenty of joy to your yard. Below, gardening experts reveal exactly what to do with a mulberry tree in May.

1. Prioritize Steady Watering

Although they are relatively drought-tolerant fruit trees once established, mulberry trees require steady watering after planting, and during hot spells.

'Aim for steady moisture rather than frequent light watering, because mulberries respond best when the root zone stays evenly damp but never waterlogged,' summarizes gardening and horticulture expert Patrick Martin.

Use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Walmart) to monitor newly-planted mulberry trees, checking at least twice a week.

'Feel the soil about 5cm down, and if it's dry at that depth, water thoroughly with roughly 10-15 litres – applied slowly so it soaks in rather than running off),' advises Patrick.

'For established trees, watering is usually only needed in dry spells, but when you do water, go deep. One slow soak of around 20-30 litres every 10-14 days is typically more effective than smaller amounts more often.'

2. Start Mulching

Mulching is a brilliant way to lock in soil moisture during warmer weather, and May is an ideal time to start.

'Mulching is an important maintenance job for any fruit tree, and mulberries are no different,' confirms Drew Swainston, Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'If you haven’t got around to mulching your mulberry tree yet, make spring the time to do it.'

You can use pine bark mulch, which you'll find at Amazon, or organic compost, which you can pick up at Home Depot.

'Adding a 2-4 inch layer of organic mulch around your mulberry tree will suppress weeds and retain moisture in the soil, reducing how much you need to water it when the fruits are developing,' explains Drew.

'Mulch a good-sized circle around the tree, but make sure to leave a four-inch gap around the trunk. Never pile mulch against the tree’s trunk, as it can cause rot.'

3. Don't Forget to Fertilize

Spring is also the time to start fertilizing your mulberry tree – so if you haven't already, you'll want to create a feeding routine in May.

'May is a sensible time for a moderate, balanced feed that supports both leafy growth and fruit development,' says Patrick. 'A balanced slow-release fertilizer, used at the label rate, is usually sufficient.'

Try 10-10-10 organic plant food, which you can buy from Amazon – and watch out for nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which can be detrimental to fruit trees.

'High-nitrogen feeds can encourage lots of leaf at the expense of fruit, and they can also make growth more prone to pests and wind damage,' Patrick explains. 'I would avoid heavy applications of fresh manure, alongside nitrogen-rich lawn fertilizers.'

4. Avoid Hard Pruning

Knowing when to prune fruit trees is crucial, and mulberry trees should mostly be left alone at this time of year.

You'll still need to remove dead branches to prevent bug infestations and diseases, but make sure to work carefully, using sharp, reliable tools (such as the Felco F2 pruning shears, which you'll find at Home Depot.)

'In May, keep mulberry pruning to essentials only,' advises Patrick. 'Remove dead, damaged or rubbing branches, plus any obvious suckers from the base. Make clean cuts back to a suitable junction and keep tools clean, especially if you are removing suspect wood.'

If you're unsure of how to prune fruit trees like mulberries, restraint is key in the springtime.

'Mulberries can bleed sap heavily if cut at the wrong time, and removing too much now can reduce this season’s crop because you may cut off fruiting wood or stress the tree during fruit set,' says Patrick. 'Save shaping, size reduction, and more structural pruning for winter dormancy.'

5. Try Propagating

You might need to hold off on heavy pruning, but if you've been tempted to take mulberry tree cuttings, May is a great time to get stuck in. Late spring or early summer is when most gardeners take softwood cuttings, since new stems are still young and flexible.

Using a pair of pruning snips (like these from Amazon), remove fresh, green stems at a length of up to 8 inches. Strip each one of foliage – leaving just two leaves at the top of each stem – before dipping the bottom inch in rooting hormone powder, which you can buy at Walmart.

Then, simply plant the cuttings in a well-draining potting mix, place them in a partially shaded location, and mist them regularly to support root growth, which should take around 6 weeks.

If you're in need of more mulberry tree advice, you can check out our guide to growing mulberry trees in pots, or find tips on getting a mulberry tree to fruit.

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You may be currently dazzled by their glorious spring blossom, but there are plenty of other cherry tree tasks to keep on top of in May.

Ensuring any fruit tree is in top notch condition during spring – the peak growing season – is key to a bountiful harvest later in the year. Providing the right levels of nutrients and water, plus monitoring fresh growth for pests and disease are all on our to-do list for the next few weeks.

By following some simple flowering cherry tree care you can keep your fruit tree in good health, enjoy one of the best trees for spring blossom and also savor delicious harvests for years to come. Here's what cherry trees need in May.

Take Note of Your Local Climate

'If there’s one thing that experience has taught us, it’s this: April and early May is the period that determines everything. It’s the moment when all your good intentions either pay off or don’t,' explains plant nursery owner Rye Owen.

'Cherry trees are remarkably adaptable – they’re grown successfully from the Midwest to New England, the mid-Atlantic to the Mountain West – but late April and early May looks different depending on where you are,' continues Rye.

'In warmer zones (7-8), your trees may already be approaching petal fall by early April. In cooler zones (4-5), you might still be weeks away from first bloom. The key is to track your tree, not the calendar. Watch the buds. When you see green tip emerging, it’s time to act,' she adds.

Apply A Balanced Slow Release Fertilizer

Spring and summer months are prime growing time for all fruit trees. As it’s when pollination, fruit formation and maturity take place, it's crucial that the plant receives the best nutrition possible, if you want to enjoy a plentiful harvest.

Fortunately cherry trees are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow.

'Fertilizing the tree with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in the early spring, as well as occasional feeding throughout the growing season, will help promote healthy growth and fruit production,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

An organic, high potassium liquid fertilizer – such as Farmer's Secret Fruit Tree Booster from Amazon – is a quick and easy way to guarantee the necessary nutrients are on hand. Recommended every couple of weeks from April through August, it is an simple and effective way to satisfy the plant’s needs.

Alternatively, you can apply a granular feed directly on to the soil around the tree base every spring. Opt for a multi-purpose feed, such as The Grow Co's Muriate of Potash from Amazon, for sustained growth.

For tart cherry varieties it is important to start feeding at the right time, Rye advises. 'Fertilizing too early pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit set. Wait until blossoms have dropped, then apply a balanced fertilizer to support the developing fruit,' she says.

Remove Energy Sapping Suckers

With tree sap rising and fresh spring growth evident all around, it’s time to keep an eye on your cherry tree.

Young and mature fruit trees can produce whippy, slender new stems from the base of the trunk. If you spot these emerging it is well worth removing them, as they are most likely to be suckers and they will steal essential nutrients from the main tree, inhibiting future branches and foliage from forming, and of course, all important fruits.

The easiest way to cut these away is by using clean and sharp hand pruners – we particularly like Fiskars Bypass Hand Pruners from Lowe's for their easy action and comfy grip.

Doing this task during mild weather will encourage the tree to heal quicker, reducing the chance of infection. Sticky cherry sap can irritate skin on contact, so gloves are essential. Try these Professional Gardening Gloves with Enhanced Grip from Walmart.

Top Up Mulch Around The Tree

May is the month when persistent weeds reappear in the garden, competing for valuable nutrients and moisture.

Keep them at bay by adding either a layer of organic mulch or a biodegradable mulch mat – such as these coconut fiber mulch rings from Amazon.

Organic mulch can be spread on to cleared ground, beneath any fruit tree. Be sure that the area stretches out to the tree's drip line, as this usually corresponds to the plant's root reach too, encouraging nutrients and retained moisture to be absorbed effectively.

Aaron Green, founder of Essential Home and Garden lists compost, grass clippings, shredded leaves, and bark as examples. It's easy to spread, and has the benefit of improving the soil as it breaks down. 'However, this type of mulch does need to be replaced every few years,' he says.

Water Regularly During Dry Spells

Regularly watering cherry trees during May can prove critical for crops and tree health, especially if container grown, after all these are one of the best fruit trees to grow in pots.

Essential for the production of flower buds and fruit setting, maintaining a consistent moisture level over the next few weeks can directly impact the size and flavor of the summer's harvest.

As with all fruit trees, experts recommend to water deeply once a week; twice if experiencing drought conditions. This will not only encourage fruit to form but also top up the plant's energy reserves to ward off any disease or fungal infection.

Installing watering loops prior to planting, is an easy and effective way to direct water straight to the roots. Otherwise, consider laying a soaker hose (like this one from Walmart) or an automatic self-watering bag (also available at Walmart).

Take Precautions Against Brown Rot Blossom Blight

With the increase in temperature and daylight hours comes the possibility of pests and diseases seizing on our vulnerable fruit trees. Winter washing fruit trees can help, but spring's arrival still demands vigilance.

'April and early May is also the moment to begin your disease prevention program,' advises Rye.

'Brown rot blossom blight can devastate an entire bloom in wet or humid conditions, spreading rapidly from flower to flower. Apply a labelled fungicide at early bud swell, full bloom, and petal fall – this three-application window is your best defense.'

Bonide Captain Jack's Copper Fungicide, available from Amazon, is a go-to for many pro gardeners.

Thoughtful pruning and maintaining a well shaped tree can also help, as Rye explains.

'Keep an eye on canopy airflow as well: a well-pruned, open-center tree dries faster after rain and gives disease far less opportunity to take hold,' she advises.

But before you reach for the shears be sure to check on the right time of year for your type of cherry tree, as this can differ from sweet and tart varieties.

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Following these cherry tree care tips will help you reap a delicious harvest this summer. But if you're struggling to get a harvest from your other stone-fruit trees, discover how to get a plum tree to fruit and how to get a peach tree to fruit.

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If you haven't seen it already, Zach Galifianakis' This is a Gardening Show on Netflix is worth a watch. In the episode on apple trees, I was most intrigued to learn, as Zach puts it, 'the only way to get a good tasting apple is grafting.'

Apple tree grafting is common practice in commercial orchards, and you can easily try it at home. It's a necessity for growing brand new apple trees that produce tasty and desired fruit, with cuttings from an existing tree fusing onto a healthy, mature rootstock. The apple tree you bought from the nursery (like this 'Honeycrisp' apple tree from Fast Growing Trees) is likely already grafted, as it's actually one of the only ways to guarantee you'll end up with recognizable varieties.

If you want to rejuvenate an older apple tree in your garden or want to propagate a specific variety, then apple tree grafting is worth a try. Bear in mind it takes time for the new tree to become productive (usually fruiting in 2-5 years), but it's a surprisingly straightforward and rewarding process. Here, with insights from a fruit growing expert, I talk through how it works.

Why Graft Apple Trees?

Apple tree grafting is one secret of the horticultural world not many home gardeners know about. It's actually the most common way apples are grown (as well as other fruit trees like pears, cherries, peaches, and more).

Growing apples from seed is incredibly unreliable, as the fruit tends to vary genetically and doesn't produce true to type from seed, i.e. the seeds from the parent fruit don't necessarily produce the same tree.

In This is a Gardening Show, Danielle Bellefleur (owner of Fruit Forest Farm where Zach visits) explains in each of her 'Liberty' apples there are around 20 seeds.

'Each of them will be a completely different variety,' she says.

Grafting, by taking a shoot off an existing tree and attaching it to a rootstock, allows for the continuation of specific varieties. It's a type of propagation that essentially clones the apples through a host plant.

It's the primary method of preserving heirloom and rare varieties, like 'Granny Smith' apple trees (available from Fast Growing Trees).

It also allows for apple trees to be more suited to the available growing conditions, as the mature rootstock provides size control, hardiness, and disease resistance.

Of course, grafting also offers much faster fruit production than attempting to grow apples from seed, which can take over a decade.

As well as using this technique for propagation, grafting a new variety onto an older tree can rejuvenate it and help repair damaged wood.

How It Works

Apple tree grafting may seem daunting at first, but there are just a few steps to follow. Though, the time of year can determine the method you use.

In the episode, Danielle shows us how to graft apple trees in summer, using a dormant bud. But, spring is often the preferred time to do it, in which you rather use a cutting of a shoot.

Here, Susan Poizner, fruit tree expert and founder of Orchard People, talks through each step of spring apple tree grafting:

1. Take Cuttings

'The best time to take cuttings, or scion wood, is in the winter when apple trees are dormant,' says Susan.

Scion wood is a one-year-old shoot from a desired apple tree you want to graft.

'It's the new growth from the previous season. Older wood won’t work because it lacks the vitality needed for grafting. New wood is softer and often a slightly different color, making it easy to spot,' Susan describes.

'Cuttings should be at least 14 inches long. It might seem long, but when grafting, you’ll often need to cut the scion repeatedly to get a smooth cut that matches the cut on the host tree or rootstock perfectly,' she explains.

You should always use sharp essential pruning tools to take cuttings. While sicon wood is more flexible than older wood, it will still be quite firm, so you may find something like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon are the best choice over snips.

Susan notes that if you aren't able to find a cutting 14 inches long, you might need to give your apple tree a boost.

'It might need better nutrition. You can spread a 2-3 inch layer of compost over the root zone each spring to fertilize apple trees, reaching out to the edge of the canopy. Avoid synthetic fertilizers,' Susan advises.

'Also, make sure the tree gets enough water during the growing season, as trees need water to absorb nutrients from the soil. Without it, growth will slow down,' she adds.

2. Store Cuttings Over Winter

'You’ll need to store the scion wood in a cool, dormant state over the winter until it’s time to graft them in spring,' says Susan.

This ensures grafting only takes place when the rootstock wakes up from winter dormancy and is in its active growth season.

The cuttings should be stored in a sealed, cool, dark place to prevent them drying out.

You can wrap them in lightly moistened paper towels, sealed in plastic bags. You should then place them in a cool garage or shed to stop them freezing outdoors.

3. Get a Rootstock Ready

Unlike propagating other hardwood cuttings, you're not attempting to root the scion wood from your apple tree.

'Rooting hormone isn’t necessary for this process. When you’re grafting, the focus isn’t on growing roots but on joining the scion to a rootstock,' says Susan.

'If you root a branch without grafting it onto a rootstock, the tree will eventually produce the fruit you want, but the tree will grow to be very large and may take up to seven years to bear fruit,' she adds.

You can purchase rootstock (like this 'Scarlet Sentinel' columnar apple bare root from Burpee) or you can use an existing apple tree in your yard.

'Rootstocks help control tree size and they often encourage the tree to produce a harvest in the earlier years. Rootstocks also can come with great benefits like disease resistance, making fruit trees easier to grow and manage,' Susan says.

4. Graft the Cutting

To attach the scion wood to the rootstock, you need a grafting knife (like this from Amazon) to make a diagonal slice in the rootstock's trunk and the end of the cutting.

You should also make a slice or 'tongue' on each of the slanted surfaces to slot into each other.

You should ensure the cambium layers (the thin layer located underneath the bark) are touching. This is a microscopic layer of living cells that create the tree's outward growth.

Over time, the cutting and rootstock fuse together to create one organism. The cambium layers grow together, transporting water and nutrients between the rootstock and scion.

Then, take grafting tape (like this from Amazon) to attach it and seal any exposed areas.

5. Monitor for Growth

You should monitor for new growth as your grafted shoot bonds with the rootstock and begins forming into a new tree. It's usually expected for leaf buds to appear within a month when you graft in spring.

Remove any suckers (new vertical shoots) that appear below the graft or at the base of the trunk, which can drain energy and steal nutrients. You should also make sure to keep the rootstock well watered to maintain moisture levels and improve chances of success.

After 6-8 weeks, you should spot significant new growth. At this point, remove the grafting tape to stop it girdling the tree.

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Apple tree grafting makes it possible to grow apple trees in pots, by using a dwarf variety rootstock. This 'Blushing Delight' columnar apple tree from Fast Growing Trees is a good choice for containers.

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April can be somewhat of a flexible month for fig trees, and any maintenance you need to do will depend on your location. There are, however, going to be tasks for gardeners in all zones, so let's look at what to do with a fig tree in April to help you get a strong harvest this year.

A growing fig tree is low-maintenance, but at this stage in the year, you can ensure they are in a good place for the season ahead. If you haven’t already, pruning and feeding trees in April is definitely needed to promote new growth to carry fruit.

Whether you have fig trees in the ground or in containers, they may also need watering in dry spring and potentially some protection from the weather and pests to keep them healthy. A few simple measures carried out in April can make a big difference for the coming months – so keep a close eye on your figs and show them some love if you want an attractive ornamental tree and a crop of sweet figs come summer.

1. Prune Trees

The window to prune fig trees is still open, but not all gardeners will need to reach for the tools this month. As mentioned earlier, it is one of those jobs that depend on the climate.

Fig growers in warmer climates will likely have done their pruning earlier in the year, in late winter. But the time may be right for those in colder climates, and it is important to get that timing right. The key time to prune fig trees is after your last frost, and before the tree starts budding out for the new season.

This crucial window may be April for many gardeners, so prepare to head out with the pruning tools if this applies to you. Avoid holding off too long, though, as pruning too late after the tree has started growing is a fig growing mistake that will result in lots of sap loss. This weakens the tree, leaving it susceptible to pests and diseases.

Use clean, sharp pruning tools, and wear gloves as the sap can irritate the skin. Working upwards on the tree stops sap from dripping and causing issues.

In terms of how to prune the fig tree, the primary focus of trimming at this time of year is to remove dead, damaged, and diseased wood and lightly shape the tree.

Concentrate on the 3 D’s and also target inward-growing branches, along with weak growth. Trimming branches back to a bud or branch will promote new growth to carry fruit, but use a light touch. Don’t get too carried away and remove more than a third of the growth, as it can lead to stress and erratic regrowth.

2. Feed Trees

As with pruning, some fig growers may already have fed their trees once the buds started to break dormancy earlier in spring. But, for many others, April can be an opportune time to fertilize fig trees to give them a dose of nutrients to develop healthy growth and produce fruit.

A key moniker to remember each season is that when you see growth, it is a perfect time to fertilize.

Fig trees generally don’t need rich, fertile soil, but a feed once a year in spring can provide the nutrition the trees need to develop and ripen fruits. This is the case for trees growing in the ground. However, if the fruit tree grows in pots, it does need a more rigorous feeding regime.

A good fertilizer for fig trees is a balanced, slow-release product that will boost the soil nutrients over an extended period. A good example of such a feed is this 10-10-10 all-purpose fertilizer at Amazon.

After fertilizing in spring, it is also advisable to mulch the trees with a 2-3 inch layer of compost or well-rotted manure, such as this composted cow manure, also from Amazon.

3. Water in Dry Spells

Fig trees naturally grow in dry, sunny climates. They are drought-tolerant fruit trees native to the Mediterranean and western Asia, and their deep roots can search far down into the soil for water and nutrients. However, that does not mean gardeners need never water fig trees.

They do need deep watering during extended periods of dry weather in spring, and will especially want regular watering if they are growing in containers.

Indeed, newly-planted fig trees and those in pots are going to be most in need of watering in April. Keep a close eye on both of these to prevent the soil from drying out completely. Check the moisture level a few inches under the soil surface with your fingers. If it feels dry, water the tree.

Alternatively, use a soil moisture meter, and it will tell you when the tree needs watering. You can get a long probe soil moisture meter at Amazon.

Water the tree well, but don’t waterlog the soil, which can be especially risky in containers. Fig trees sitting in saturated soil for too long can lead to yellowing leaves, foliage drop, or root rot.

4. Protect From Late Frosts

In colder climates, fig trees may need some protection from late spring frosts. Keep checking local forecasts and be prepared to act if temperatures look set to drop below 32°F at night. Severe frosts and freezing winds can damage new growth and buds, potentially wrecking any harvest.

Some varieties of figs are hardier than others, so it pays to understand your type of fig and the temperatures it can tolerate. The ‘Chicago Hardy’ fig is a popular cold-hardy type suited for growers in colder climates, and you can get a live Chicago Hardy fig tree at Fast Growing Trees.

A simple way of protecting fruit trees from frost is to wrap them in frost cloth (horticultural fleece), burlap, or old sheets. Place the covers ahead of freezing temperatures, and remove them when temperatures rise again the following day so pollinators can get to any blooms.

Fig trees in containers can be moved indoors or to a protected spot and wrapped for the night. Placing covers over the container will insulate the roots from frost, such as these winter pot covers at Amazon.

5. Deal with Pests or Damage

Even if you took steps to winterize your fig trees and protected them from challenging weather, your trees may have suffered damage. And spring can have turbulent weather, including storms.

Check your trees for any signs of damage, especially after any spring storms, and remove any broken branches promptly with clean, sharp pruning tools.

There are also early pests around in April. Fresh growth on fig trees is appealing to active pests in spring, and it is advisable to keep a close eye and catch issues quickly.

The likes of aphids and scale insects can be found on new shoots and leaves. These are both sap-sucking insects that congregate around new stems, leaves, and buds and can be spotted by honeydew (a sticky residue) that is left behind them.

You can knock them off plants with a blast of water, scrape them off stems, or, as a last resort, spray with insecticidal soap spray, available at Walmart.

Fig tree borer is a major issue that feeds on all parts of the tree. It tends to strike in summer, but it is advisable to watch out for any symptoms in spring, including stunted growth or wilted stems.

The best way to prevent fig tree borer is to keep the tree healthy, as they are attracted to stressed trees and dead or damaged wood.

What to Shop

Looking ahead, you want to ensure that birds and squirrels don’t nab your figs as they ripen on the tree. Did you realise you can cover figs in tinfoil as they’re developing to stop any pests getting to enjoy them before you?

Wrapping the fruits can trap moisture, so it is advisable to poke some holes in the foil to allow airflow if you want to experiment with this technique.

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Growing fruit trees comes with many perils. As well as the unpredictable weather, there is always the risk of pests nibbling your fruit and diseases that can harm trees and wreck harvests. Disease-resistant fruit trees can ease some worries, be easy to maintain, and yield reliable crops.

There are disease-resistant varieties of all of the best fruit trees. Whether you want to grow apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, or more, there are some great choices resistant to common issues, including scab, fire blight, leaf curl, and bacterial spot. It takes some of the stress away and eliminates the need for regular chemical spraying.

If you seek a more low-maintenance garden, disease-resistant fruit trees tick all the right boxes. Here, we reveal some of the best cultivars that offer a perfect combination of resilience and productivity, so you’ll get harvests without the worry.

5 of the Best Disease-Resistant Fruit Trees

Disease-resistant fruit trees offer great solutions, but they are not a miracle cure. They are bred to be resistant to diseases and will be more immune to specific issues, but they are not completely immune to all potential diseases.

They can still get diseases, especially when stressed by other issues. However, they are low-maintenance and easy fruit trees to grow at home.

1. Liberty Apple

A Liberty apple tree comes with a reputation as one of the most disease-resistant fruit trees you can add to a garden.

It is very resistant to scab, fire blight, powdery mildew, and cedar apple rust – some of the most common diseases that trouble apple trees and can wreck harvests.

If you want to plant an apple and be confident it will stay healthy and productive, look no further than Liberty. You can get a live Liberty apple tree at Amazon.

The cultivar was bred in New York and introduced in the late 1970s. Suitable for US hardiness zones 4-7, Liberty produces medium-sized yellow-green crisp, juicy apples perfect for cooking, baking, and eating fresh from the tree.

The fruits, which are ready to pick in mid-to-late September, also store well for up to three months.

There are many other disease-resistant apple tree varieties to look out for, including Enterprise, Freedom, and Triumph. The latter, developed by the University of Minnesota, is highly resistant to scab and fire blight, and you can get a Triumph apple tree at Fast Growing Trees.

2. Ayers Pear

Fire blight is a common and potentially destructive problem for pear trees. The bacterial disease also affects apple trees, killing branches, flowers, and fruits. In extreme cases, fire blight can even kill an entire tree.

Looking for disease-resistant pear trees is advisable when you want to grow a pear tree, and one of the most resistant is Ayers. You can get a live Ayers pear tree at Amazon

As well as having a great reputation for being resistant to fire blight, Ayers is also resistant to black spot and powdery mildew.

It is a self-pollinating pear tree (though if you want to get a pear tree to fruit profusely, it will yield more if planted near another tree) with juicy, sweet pears to harvest in mid-to-late summer. The fruits can be eaten fresh and are also perfect for cooking.

Other fire blight-resistant pear trees include Warren, Blake’s Pride, Harrow, and Hosui Asian. You can get a live Hosui Asian pear tree at Amazon, and this Asian variety produces crisp, golden fruits.

3. Frost Peach

Gardeners in colder, wetter climes may struggle to grow peach trees or be put off trying completely.

This is because a wet spring can trigger peach leaf curl, and late freezes will kill blossoms and ruin harvests. The Frost peach is a perfect variety for such growers, as it can withstand cold temperatures and is highly resistant to leaf curl.

Peach leaf curl is a common fungal issue. It strikes young leaves in spring, causing them to become lumpy, curl, and fall from the tree. You need to cover trees, prune the peach tree to rid it of infected areas, or spray. But if you plant a Frost peach tree, the risks are reduced as it is resistant and requires less maintenance.

A Frost peach is also bred to withstand cold temperatures, so you don’t need to be concerned about late frosts ruining your fruit. The peaches themself are golden-yellow and juicy. You can get a Frost peach tree at Fast Growing Trees that will grow to 12-15 feet.

Other disease-resistant peach trees less susceptible to leaf curl include Contender and Avalon Pride.

4. Harcot Apricot

Harcot was bred in Canada in the 1970s to perform in colder climates. It offers several advantages compared to other varieties on the market, and is particularly appealing to gardeners who aspire to grow an apricot tree in northern regions.

This is because Harcot blooms later than other apricots, and it can tolerate colder spring temperatures, but may need covering with frost cloth ahead of a deep cold snap. As well as being better suited to the cold, the variety is disease-resistant to bacterial spot, brown rot, and canker, making it a reliable, low-maintenance apricot to grow.

A Harcot apricot tree produces medium to large orange fruits with a red blush, and the flesh is firm and juicy when ripe.

This disease-resistant variety is suitable for smaller spaces. It is a compact semi-dwarf tree, and regular apricot tree pruning can keep it on the smaller side. While self-pollinating, another nearby tree will help the apricot produce fruit better.

You can get a Harcot apricot tree at Fast Growing Trees to plant in a sunny spot. You can even grow the fruit tree in a large pot.

5. Persimmon Trees

If you seek a more unusual fruit tree with an excellent reputation for being both pest and disease-resistant, look no further than a persimmon. Despite not being a common fruit tree, persimmon trees offer year-round beauty and exotic, sweet fruits.

There are Asian persimmon trees (Diospyros kaki) and American persimmon trees (Diospyros virginiana). Luckily, both are regarded as being very disease-resistant fruit trees.

Asian persimmons produce larger fruit, while American varieties are more cold-hardy, and you can get dwarf cultivars suitable for growing a persimmon tree in a container.

You can get a live Asian Fuyu persimmon tree at Fast Growing Trees. This variety is the most popular persimmon globally and is naturally pest and disease-resistant.

Alternatively, you can get a live American persimmon tree at Amazon.

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Disease-resistant fruit trees are undoubtedly going to be more low-maintenance than other varieties. Another aspect to consider when choosing fruit trees is their level of drought tolerance.

The most drought-tolerant fruit trees include fig, pomegranate, persimmon, and loquat trees. These types are more suited to warmer climates and will require less watering during the hotter months, saving you time and effort.

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April can be a make-or-break month to set up your strawberry plants for summer. If you wonder what to do with strawberry plants in April that will make a big difference, here are five key tasks you need to know.

It is a time to tidy and weed beds, fertilize and mulch plants, and even protect the delicate flowers from late frosts. Following these steps in early spring will reward you with healthier plants, larger harvests, and bigger, sweeter strawberries come summer.

If you grow strawberries in beds or containers at home, consider this a call to action. All of these jobs are relatively quick and simple, yet the rewards are massive. Guarantee yourself the best crop of delicious, juicy strawberries this summer by taking good care of them now. It is the first step to a successful season.

1. Clean and Tidy Plants to Prevent Disease

Cleaning and tidying strawberries in April gets them off to a great start to the year – it is highly recommended for healthy, productive strawberry plants. Older plants can get swamped or matted in beds, so take some time to remove dead, damaged, or old leaves and any debris around the base of each plant.

All that excess plant material from last year can harbor disease and be a home for slugs and snails. Bacteria, fungal spores, or pests can overwinter in old foliage and wreak havoc on new growth.

It does not take long to tidy up plants this month to avoid potential strawberry diseases. Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears (such as these sharp Japanese pruning shears at Amazon) or scissors to trim away old foliage and cut strawberries back.

Leave 3-4 inches of top growth, being extra careful not to accidentally damage any new growth emerging from the crown in spring.

Any old strawberry runners should be removed as they’ll take energy from the main plants. You can divide strawberries by potting these runners up, and you’ll get new plants for free.

2. Weed Strawberry Beds

A strawberry bed may still have weeds remaining from last year, plus new weeds grow quickly in spring. April is a perfect time to get rid of weeds.

Doing so stops them from stealing water and nutrients from your strawberries and ensures they don’t spread and dominate over the berry plants.

Weeds can be quickly removed in spring. Eliminating young weeds is a simple job, and it’ll stop them from seeding, so you don’t face many generations of weeds this year.

A hand fork, or a weeding tool like this one at Amazon, should be the go-to weeder type for removing weeds from strawberry beds. Tap-rooted weeds, such as dandelions, need the entire root removed; otherwise, they’ll sprout again.

If you get on top of weeds early, it will often be as simple as going over beds with a garden hoe for the rest of the season to nip off weed seedlings as they germinate.

3. Fertilize Plants

Strawberries burst into life in spring. It is a time of year when the plants need lots of energy to grow leaves, flowers, and berries. As they start growing when the soil reaches around 50˚F, April is a peak time for growth.

Gardeners will massively benefit their plants by fertilizing strawberries this month, giving plants the nutrients they need at this prime time of the season. Feeding plants this month helps you grow bigger strawberries and enjoy a better yield this year.

Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in April, such as this 10-10-10 all-purpose plant food from Walmart. Spread the granular fertilizer at the recommended rates around the plant, gently fork it into the soil, and water well to activate the ingredients.

Stick to balanced feeds and avoid high nitrogen ones. Too much nitrogen encourages strawberries to put on lots of lush foliage, rather than develop fruit.

4. Protect Flowers From Late Frosts

Late spring frosts can lessen your crop of strawberries. The plants themselves are hardy enough to shake off a frost, but the blossoms are delicate and can be killed when temperatures dip.

Flowers that have opened can be killed if the temperatures drop below 30°F. But there are simple ways you can protect plants from frost and ensure you have strawberries to pick in early summer.

Keep a close eye on forecasts and be prepared to act if a late frost is due. The simplest measure is to cover plants with frost cloth (like these plant covers at Amazon), row covers, burlap, or cloches (such as this polycarbonate mini greenhouse at Wayfair).

Put the covers in place on the afternoon ahead of the cold nights, and remove them during the day once the temperatures have risen so pollinators can access the flowers.

5. Replace Winter Mulch With a Summer One

Many gardeners lay a few inches of mulch in the fall to winterize strawberry plants, as it can protect the crown from freezing temperatures and smother weeds. It is a proven way to overwinter the plants and prevent them from succumbing to winter harm, but it is best to see it as a temporary measure.

When the plants start growing in the spring, it is good practise to pull back that winter mulch as part of tidying up strawberry beds at the start of the season. Do this after the soil temperature reaches 40-50˚F and the plants show signs of new growth.

Replace the winter mulch with a new layer of straw, pine needles, or wood chips. This mulching layer should be laid around the plants, but pulled away from the crown. It will retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and, perhaps more importantly, keep the fruit clean.

Strawberries sitting directly on the soil during the season get dirty and are more at risk of rotting, going moldy, or getting nibbled by slugs or snails.

You can get a box of long pine needle mulch at Walmart that is enough to cover 300 square feet

What to Shop

Did you know that April is also a fantastic time to plant strawberries if you want to add to your existing collection? Once the frosts end in your climate, young plants will thrive in the cooler temperatures and moister soils of early spring.

You may wonder if you can harvest strawberries in the first year. The truth is that you may indeed get a small crop this summer, depending on the weather and the type of strawberry, and you can certainly pick any fruits that do appear. But keep expectations low, and focus on establishing the plants this year to get a bumper crop in years two and three.

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Fruit trees burst into growth in early spring. It is a time they benefit most from a dose of essential nutrients, so gardeners should fertilize fruit trees in April to give them all they need to flower and set fruit for the season.

In most climates, fruit trees will be starting to unfurl leaves and break buds in April. If you think of when to fertilize fruit trees, when they are bursting into growth should always be one of the key times of the year. All types of fruit trees will benefit from a spring feed, except for newly-planted ones (we’ll explain later).

Over the years, I have grown many different fruit trees in orchards, walled gardens, borders, and greenhouses. This guide reveals which fruit trees to fertilize in April, and the best feeds to use to boost this year’s harvests.

1. Apple and Pear Trees

Established apple and pear trees benefit massively from fertilizing in early spring. It is a time of great activity for the trees, as the buds break and new growth kicks in for the season.

Feeding them in April provides the essential plant nutrients they need to support flowering and fruiting. It can make a tangible difference to your harvest.

To fertilize apple trees, use a product specially formulated for fruit trees that contains a fairly balanced make-up of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. A product like this natural fertilizer for fruit trees, available at Walmart, ticks all the right boxes to help get a pear tree to fruit (or an apple tree).

As well as apples and pears, other fruit trees to fertilize in April include figs, quinces, and mulberry trees. For these, the same types of fertilizers discussed above are perfect.

For extra support in spring, it is also advisable to mulch around the base of fruit trees with a two-inch layer of organic matter. The best types of mulch to use include compost, wood chips, or bark mulch (you can get bags of natural pine bark mulch at Lowe’s).

2. Stone Fruit Trees

Stone fruits include peaches, apricots, nectarines, plums, and cherries. They can be among the easiest fruit trees to grow, but it's important not to prune them during dormancy like apples and pears, as doing so can increase the risk of disease

While you don’t prune stone fruits at this time of year, they are fruit trees to fertilize in April, and you should feed them at the same time as other fruits. Stone fruits are heavy feeders that require lots of nutrients as the new growth starts for the season.

A balanced, slow-release fertilizer (like this 10-10-10 granular fertilizer at Amazon) can be applied around the tree’s drip line, which is the circumference of the canopy where the roots are. Apply the feed at the recommended rates, and water it in well.

Only ever apply the recommended amounts. Overdoing it is a fertilizing mistake that encourages lots of leafy growth rather than forming fruits, and excessive nitrogen will reduce the quality of your fruit harvest.

If you grow fruit trees in pots, top dress them in April and feed with a slow-release product. Remove the top two inches of soil and replace it with fresh compost (you can get bags of organic compost at Walmart) to boost the soil nutrients for the season ahead.

3. Citrus Trees

Citrus trees, such as lemons, limes, oranges, and yuzu, require regular fertilizing. They are often grown in pots, spending the warmer months outside and the colder months indoors.

If you grow citrus trees in containers, spring is a prime time for fertilizing. They need lots of nutrients to develop leaves, flowers, and fruit over the coming weeks and months, so supplementing the food levels is essential.

Citrus trees need lots of macro and micronutrients to thrive. The best approach for fertilizing citrus trees in April is to use a specially formulated citrus tree feed, such as this bag of Citrus-tone at Garden Goods Direct.

For established plants, a regular liquid feeding regime is recommended, especially when they are in pots. I previously looked after a large citrus tree collection, and we fed the trees every two weeks during the active growing season.

If you worry about accidentally overfeeding plants, there is a simple fix. You can get pre-made fertilizer spikes that simply need to be put in the ground around outdoor citrus trees twice a year.

Such a product, like these citrus plant food spikes at Amazon, is easy to use and alleviates any such concerns.

4. Young Fruit Trees

Any young fruit trees will appreciate being fed in April. They don’t need fertilizer when you plant fruit trees, and you shouldn’t give them feed until they have been in their spot in the yard for at least a year. After that, they can be added to your list of fruit trees to fertilize in April.

You may ask, why don’t you fertilize the trees when planting? If you add lots of fertilizer to the planting hole, the tree roots will just sit there rather than growing and searching through the soil for nutrients. A healthy tree needs a strong, far-reaching root network to anchor it into the ground.

After a year, you can fertilize the ground around the tree to contribute to a healthy root system and strong structure.

It is also recommended to keep a circle around the trunk free of grass or weeds to help the fruit tree get all the water and nutrients it needs. Mulch this circle with compost or organic matter in spring after applying the fertilizer.

Alternatively, you can use biodegradable mulching mats around the tree, such as these coco coir natural tree mulch rings at Amazon.

What to Shop for Feeding Fruit Trees in April

When you fertilize fruit trees in April, also put aside some time for your fruit bushes on your spring gardening checklist.

As berries and currants start to grow in spring, they too benefit from lots of nutrients to flower and fruit. This guide to fertilizing fruit bushes in early spring reveals why you should act, and the best products to use for thriving plants.

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Feeding fruit bushes, including currant and berries, in early spring is key to supporting strong growth and providing nutrients the plant needs for a bumper crop of fruits that season. If you want the best berries this year, take time to fertilize this month.

March is an ideal time to fertilize fruit bushes as they are starting to emerge from dormancy. It is a period of great activity for the bush, and feeding with balanced, granular fertilizer or organic matter provides the nutrients they need to grow, flower, and fruit profusely.

If you are planning your gardening month, early spring is a perfect time to fertilize fruit trees and bushes. Just remember, when you are growing currants and berries, different fruits do require specific feeds, and we’ll reveal the best fertilizers to use here.

Why You Fertilize Fruit Bushes in Early Spring

Growing stems, developing flowers, and producing and ripening fruits take a lot of energy out of a fruit bush. It often means that bushes may produce less fruit over the years if the soil’s nutrient levels are not topped up annually. A lack of key nutrients weakens the bushes; the result is a poor crop.

For the best harvests, it is recommended to fertilize fruit bushes each spring to give the plants a strong start to the season and all the essential nutrients they need to grow healthy and produce a high yield of fruits.

March is a great month to fertilize fruit bushes, as it marks the start of the active growing season in many climates. At this stage, they need lots of nutrients to support healthy growth and give the bush the stored energy to flower and fruit prolifically.

Chris Cerveny, a soil science and agronomy expert from Just Good Soil, advocates for supplementing the soil ‘early in the season’ to coincide with warming temperatures and the bushes awakening from the winter slumber.

He uses compost as his feed of choice at this stage, and adds: ‘As the soil warms, microbial activity increases and gradually releases nutrients just as the plants begin vigorous growth.

‘It becomes a kind of natural, metered feeding system. That steady nutrient availability is key for fruit quality and nutrition.’

He adds that, while organic material like compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold can be added a tad earlier, inorganic fertilizers are best added when the fruit is ‘actively growing’, as the buds start to break.

‘That helps avoid stimulating tender new growth that could be damaged by a late frost,’ warns Chris. Keep a close eye on your plants for breaking buds this month, as that means the window is open to fertilize fruit bushes.

Regular fertilizing becomes even more important when you are growing berries in containers.

As there is only a limited amount of soil in the container, it can quickly get depleted, so regular feeding is a crucial part of maintenance. While fruit bushes in the ground can suffice with just one feed a year, fruit bushes in a container garden need regular feeds throughout the year.

Best Fertilizers For Fruit Bushes This Month

The ideal feeds provide the right mix of essential nutrients that the bushes need for the season ahead. For many types of fruit, a balanced feed will be the best option, but there is one particular type of berry that needs different conditions to prosper.

Organic matter, including homemade compost and well-rotted manure, is a great choice as it contains all the essential nutrients fruit bushes need, and releases them to the plant over an extended period.

If you can’t access homemade compost, a bag of ready-made compost, such as this one containing a blend of compost and manure available at Amazon, is perfect for the job.

Alternatively, a balanced, slow-release fertilizer can be a great option. Maksim Kazakou, resident botany expert at Plantum, recommends using an all-purpose fertilizer as it offers a balanced ratio that ensures ‘healthy’ plant development. An example of such a product is this 12-12-12 multi-purpose fertilizer at Lowe’s.

‘Such products contain nitrogen in multiple forms available for both immediate uptake and longer-lasting feeding,’ says Maksim. ‘They also supply plants with phosphorus and potassium.

Phosphorus stimulates healthy root development, while potassium helps plants become more resilient to unfavorable weather conditions.’

A different feed is required when growing blueberries, which prefer acidic soil compared to other fruit bushes.

To get a blueberry bush to fruit, use a feed formulated for acid-loving plants (such as this Down To Earth Acid Mix fertilizer at Amazon) or specially for blueberries (like this blueberry fertilizer, also at Amazon).

When applying such a product, apply it at the recommended rates around the bush in a circle as wide as the branches, and lightly fork it into the soil surface. If no rain is predicted for the coming days, gently water it in.

Maksim Kazakou from Plantum also advises mulching the fruit bushes after feeding to retain moisture. He claims a lack of water is ‘a more common issue than a nitrogen deficiency’.

To combat this, a 2-4 inch layer of mulch keeps essential water in the soil, smothers weeds, regulates the soil temperature, and also provides nutrients as it breaks down. The best type of mulch for fruit bushes includes bark (get bags of natural pine bark mulch at Lowe's), wood chippings, compost, or leaf mold.

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You can grow berries in containers for juicy, flavorful homegrown pickings on a deck, patio, or balcony – how idyllic does that sound?. New cultivars mean gardeners can now choose compact plants perfectly suited for small spaces. If you want to grow berries in containers, here are five of the best plants to start with.

I have enjoyed great success growing raspberries, blueberries, gooseberries, and strawberries in containers at home over the years. There is a real joy in picking fresh fruit from outside your own home, and it is impressive how much of a bumper crop you can get in a confined space. I found growing berries in containers simple and satisfying, and I am sure you will too.

How do you decide which berries to grow in a container garden? To me, the perfect combination has to be low-maintenance and super-productive. Bearing that in mind, I look at the easiest berries to grow in containers and reveal some tips I have picked up over the years for healthy plants and the best harvests.

1. Strawberries

A classic summer fruit and undoubtedly one of the most popular fruits overall. If you grow strawberries in a container, you can pick fresh, sun-kissed fruits all summer long.

There are different types of strawberries to grow, including summer-fruiting types that give one crop a year and everbearing ones that produce two, one in spring and another in the fall.

The easiest berries to grow in containers are summer-fruiting types, as they can give you strawberries to pick for around four years before they run out of steam. The drawback of everbearing strawberries in pots is that they need replacing annually, as two fruiting periods take a lot of energy from the plants. For something smaller but with intensely flavorful fruits, you can also grow alpine strawberries in pots.

To grow strawberries in pots successfully, give them a container or hanging basket at least 12 inches wide and deep filled with a quality potting soil for container gardening, like this organic potting mix available at Burpee. Place the container in a sunny and sheltered spot, and keep the plants watered and fed regularly through the growing season.

You can get a four-pack of live strawberry plants at Amazon to grow in containers.

2. Blueberries

Blueberries are one of the easiest superfoods to grow at home. The fruit contains a high level of vitamins and antioxidants, and the plant’s compact habit makes it an ideal choice for any gardener who aspires to grow berries in containers on a balcony or deck.

Many types of blueberries are self-fertile. This is perfect for smaller spaces, as you can get a crop with just one bush, but not all are. Check the particular variety you are buying, but any blueberry will fruit better if there is more than one plant.

However, that doesn't mean you need multiple plants. I have had a solo blueberry in a container for three years now and get a lovely crop from it each year.

One quirk you must remember when growing blueberries in pots is their preference for acidic soil.

Plant blueberries in pots filled with ericaceous compost, such as this potting mix for acid-loving plants at Amazon, and water them with harvested rainwater. The plants also need fertilizing every two weeks with an ericaceous feed, like this all-natural acid mix at Amazon, to get a blueberry bush to fruit.

You can get a Patriot blueberry bush at Nature Hills that is more compact than other types. Alternatively, for a unique pink fruit, consider this Pink Lemonade blueberry bush at Fast Growing Trees.

An alternative option for growers in cold US hardiness zones is to grow honeyberry plants. These are more unusual fruits to grow and are native to Siberia, hence their ability to withstand cold down to the US hardiness zone 2.

3. Gooseberries

If you grow berries in containers at home, they taste far better than those you get in stores. Nowhere is that truer than when growing gooseberries, as the fruits taste sweeter than store-bought.

You can grow gooseberries in shades of red, yellow, green, and purple on compact bushes that reach up to three feet in height. However, gooseberry bushes do have sharp spines, so they may not be suitable for balconies or patios if you have inquisitive children or pets.

Plant the bushes in at least 18-inch pots filled with a quality potting mix and place the container in sun or part-shade. I also grew a gooseberry bush in a grow bag successfully while I was in between plots, and it stayed happy, so grow bags can be a lightweight option for a balcony.

Watering plants is critically important with gooseberries, especially during hot weather. A lack of moisture is a gooseberry growing mistake that can cause fruits to split, so keep a close eye to ensure the water remains consistently moist.

Check the moisture levels a few inches under the surface when watering plants in containers, or use a soil moisture meter (available at Amazon), and water deeply each time.

You can get a live gooseberry bush at Amazon to plant in a container for summer harvests.

4. Raspberries

I first grew a Ruby Beauty raspberry in a container almost a decade ago, not long after it was the first dwarf variety released. As someone who loved growing raspberries but who only had a small courtyard garden at the time, it was a game-changer. That plant lasted me for many years, giving me delicious harvests each season.

You may imagine raspberries requiring lots of space; however, modern compact varieties have opened up many more opportunities to grow raspberries in pots.

Traditional canes are not a long-term option for pots. They can thrive for four or five years in a container, given the right care and attention, but modern dwarf varieties are more suited to growing in pots for many years.

Plant raspberries into containers at least 12 inches in diameter, which is large enough for three canes. Place the pot in a sunny position and fertilize the raspberries well. This includes using a balanced fertilizer in spring, like this granular plant food at Burpee, followed by feeding plants at least once a month during the growing season with a liquid fertilizer, such as this all-purpose plant food at Amazon.

You can get a Bushel and Berry Raspberry Shortcake Bush at Fast Growing Trees. This plant is compact, self-pollinating, and perfect if you want to grow berries in containers.

5. Blackberries

Like other fruits on this list, modern cultivars of blackberries and loganberries (a cross between a blackberry and a raspberry) now make it possible to enjoy these best brambles in small spaces. This is perfect news if you want to grow berries in containers and get a late-summer treat of sweet and tart berries.

Blackberries want at least six hours of sunlight a day, but will benefit from afternoon shade in hotter US hardiness zones. They do need a large container filled with well-draining potting mix.

Indeed, drainage is key when growing blackberries, as they dislike wet soil. A container must have drainage holes, and raising containers on pot feet (you can get pot feet at Walmart) will further help excess water drain away.

You will need to stake the stems and regularly water and feed the plants. Along with other fruits mentioned on this list, it is recommended to cover plants with netting (use a product like this garden netting at Amazon) as the berries develop. This stops birds from stealing the fruit before you get to enjoy them.

This Baby Cakes blackberry plant at Burpee is a dwarf, thornless variety with a compact growth habit, making it an ideal choice for pots.

Yes, you can grow berries in containers, but there is also a great range of citrus trees that can bring glorious beauty, fragrant foliage, and delicious fruit to small spaces. If you like the idea of growing citrus trees in pots on a patio, deck, or balcony, then lemons, oranges, limes, and kumquats are all fantastic options.

When you grow and care for citrus trees in pots in milder climates, they can spend the summer outside basking in the sun, but will need to be brought indoors for winter. Mobility is an advantage of pots because you can grow a lemon tree indoors (or any other citrus) during winter.

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Citrus trees are perfect for pots, as lemons, limes, oranges, and more bring glossy evergreen leaves, fragrant foliage, and fruits to small spaces. The portability of pots means you can place them in the sunniest spot in the garden, then move the frost-sensitive fruit trees undercover for winter. It is a win-win situation.

I worked in one historic garden in the UK where we had a large citrus collection, all growing happily in containers. They would spend winter tucked away in an orangery and were brought out for display during the summer months.

Growing and caring for citrus trees in pots does require extra attention when it comes to watering and feeding, but the work more than pays off as they make stunning additions to any patio, deck, or even balcony. If you want to grow citrus trees in pots and give any space a Mediterranean vibe, here are five of the easiest that I recommend.

1. Lemon

Lemon trees are highly dependable and make beautiful ornamental additions when grown in pots. The fragrant flowers and fruits brighten any space, and I found them to be very low-maintenance trees for pots during my time caring for them.

One reason citrus makes some of the best fruit trees to grow in pots is that you can bring them inside to protect against the weather.

After spending the summer bringing color and scent to your outdoors, you can grow a lemon tree indoors over winter once the temperatures drop. Moving a potted lemon tree inside over winter needs to be done before the first frosts, but do keep them somewhere bright and warm for the colder months.

A compact or bush lemon tree is perfect for growing in a container, and the Meyer lemon is undoubtedly the best. It is compact, flowers and fruits prolifically, and produces sizable lemons for a small tree. Like many citrus trees, it is self-pollinating and can flower and fruit year-round in ideal conditions.

You can get a live Meyer lemon tree at Fast Growing Trees to grow outdoors in zones 9-11, or as a patio plant to bring indoors in zones 3-11.

2. Orange

Orange trees have a wonderful blend of glossy leaves, fragrant star-shaped blooms, and small, rounded fruit. They are also very easy to grow and suitable for beginners wanting to discover the joy of citrus.

There are different varieties of oranges to grow, but many trees can reach up to 30 feet tall. Thankfully, there are some fantastic dwarf varieties available if you want to grow an orange tree in a pot on a deck, patio, or courtyard.

Many oranges are self-pollinating, so you can get a crop with one tree, and they are easy to grow in a container that is a few inches bigger than the tree’s root ball.

To grow citrus trees in pots, fill your container with specialized citrus potting mix (like this citrus tree potting soil at Amazon) and place the tree somewhere it can bask in 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.

You need to keep a close eye on watering, remember to feed regularly, and prune orange trees in late winter or early spring to keep them healthy. Orange trees aren’t cold-hardy and need to be brought indoors once the temperature gets below 50-55°F.

A calamondin orange tree is the best option for a container. This mini orange is a cross between a mandarin and a kumquat, and only reaches a maximum of eight feet. It is perfect for a pot and can produce tart, small fruits year-round.

You can get a live calamondin orange tree at Amazon to grow in a container.

3. Lime

Of all the citrus trees, limes are the most sensitive to cold. That is where growing a lime tree in a pot is advantageous, as you can place it in the sunniest spot for the summer, and bring it indoors to protect it from winter.

There is a great selection of dwarf lime trees that thrive growing in pots and provide a summer feel year-round with their evergreen foliage and fragrant fruits. It includes the key lime and the kaffir lime.

You can get a live key lime tree at Fast Growing Trees that produces small fruits, perfect if you want to make a key lime pie.

If you aspire for a lime tree to bear fruit, regular feeding is essential. The citrus trees I looked after were fed monthly during winter, and that increased to every two weeks during the growing season.

I used a granular fertilizer, such as this citrus fertilizer at Walmart, but you can also get liquid feeds specially formulated for citrus trees.

4. Kumquat

Kumquats produce fruit that resembles mini oranges, but the skin is edible, so you can eat them whole and enjoy a tangy burst of flavor. They are the most cold-hardy of all the citrus trees, and the fruits are great for enjoying straight off the tree or to make marmalade.

Kumquat trees are also naturally compact, self-pollinating, and heavy-cropping, three traits that make them perfect for growing in containers. You can even grow a kumquat tree indoors to enjoy the glossy leaves and fragrant citrus perfume of its white flowers.

An outdoor kumquat tree on a deck or patio needs 6–8 hours of daily sunlight during the growing season and should be moved indoors for the colder months. Even though kumquats can tolerate as low as 18°F, their hardiness is reduced when growing in a container.

As with any on the list, watering is key when you grow citrus trees in pots. They need regular watering, especially during the summer when the soil in the container can dry out quickly.

When watering plants in containers, check the soil moisture a few inches under the surface with your fingers. Alternatively, use a soil moisture meter (available at Amazon). If the soil is dry, water deeply until it flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the container.

A great kumquat variety for a container is Meiwa, and you can get a live Meiwa kumquat tree at Amazon. This variety is compact and produces slightly larger and sweeter fruits than other kumquat trees.

5. Mandarin

A mandarin tree produces small, oblate fruit that appear slightly flattened at the top and bottom in comparison to rounded oranges. These fruits have a deep orange color, a strong, sweet taste, and are packed full of vitamin C.

They make great fruit trees for small gardens as mandarins are low-maintenance, slow-growing, and somewhat drought-tolerant once established. They are also cold-hardy for short periods, but will prefer to be brought indoors for winter when growing in containers.

A perfect dwarf variety of mandarin for a container is the satsuma mandarin. You can get a great crop of sweet, seedless, and easy-to-peel fruits on a tree that reaches eight feet maximum. You can get an Owari Satsuma mandarin tree at Fast Growing Trees.

Citrus trees are usually low maintenance, but sometimes their leaves start curling. This can be due to many factors, including over- and underwatering, nutrient deficiencies, pests, and diseases.

If you see this ailment on your trees, this guide to why citrus leaves curl reveals the main problems to help you diagnose the issue, and practical ways to remedy it.

Fan-trained fruit trees have branches arranged in a (yes, you guessed it) fan shape. They are tied to a wall or fence and benefit from regular light pruning to keep them shapely, healthy, and productive. Here we look at when and how to prune fan-trained fruit trees so yours remain at their absolute best.

The fan shape is popular for many different fruits. It is predominantly for stone fruits or figs, but classics like apples and pears are also suitable. Both the timing and the techniques to prune fan-trained fruit trees depend on the type. Some require winter and summer pruning, while others are only trimmed in summer.

It is important to understand how to prune fruit trees to get the best from these trained types. Knowing the key techniques means you can keep the tree open and healthy, and get lots of fruiting wood for bumper harvests. I have pruned lots of fruit in public and private gardens over the years, and here are my tips for how to prune fan-trained fruit trees.

When to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees

The right time to prune fan-trained fruit trees depends on the type of fruit you are growing. And it either takes place in late winter or early spring, or in summer.

Understanding when to prune fruit trees is vitally important to their long-term health; it is a fruit tree pruning mistake to treat them all the same.

Late winter or early spring is the ideal time to prune apples, pears, and figs. During dormancy is good for structural work and major pruning, while a second summer trim is for fine-tuning and developing fruiting spurs.

However, summer is best for pruning stone fruits, such as peaches, cherries, and apricots. You prune stone fruits later in the year to reduce the risk of silver leaf, a fungal disease prevalent in winter that targets stone fruits.

A summer pruning of stone fruit also encourages the growth of fruiting spurs to carry lots of fruit.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees

You often need to prune fan-trained fruit trees from the moment of planting to encourage the best growth and create the classic angled fan shape.

As well as pruning, you need a trellis or bamboo framework on a wall or fence to train the fruit tree to. You can get a pack of bamboo stakes at Amazon to use for the framework.

If you buy a pre-trained tree, the work is done for you, but otherwise, you need to cut straight after planting the fruit tree. Please be prepared to get into action with sharp pruning tools as soon as possible.

Having a pocket-sized garden tool sharpener like this one from Amazon can be a quick way to get your pruning shears sharp while out in the garden.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees to Establish the Shape

Do the first pruning 18 inches up the trunk above three healthy buds to encourage side shoots. Pick two angled branches to train next summer, and the following spring, cut them back by two-thirds to an upwards-facing bud.

In summer, pick around four shoots from each of these main arms. The next spring, remove any stems that are growing inwards towards the wall, and cut back the four stems you chose to keep by one-third to an upward-facing bud.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees in the Years to Come

Once trees have their shape established, they require only light pruning each year to stay attractive and productive.

The priority goes to removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with undesirable growth. That includes branches growing straight out from the wall, inwards, and any crossing, as they can rub and create wounds that become entry points for pests and diseases.

After dealing with that hit list of unwanted branches, the pruning of lateral stems varies slightly, depending on the fruit. Let’s look at a few of the differences:

• For stone fruits: peaches, nectarines, plums, and cherries: In summer, any new shoots are cut back to around six or seven leaves. After harvesting, between August and September, these same shoots are pruned further back to three leaves. This encourages the growth of spurs to bear fruit the following year.
• For pome fruits: apples and pears: In summer, new shoots longer than 6-8 inches are pruned back to 2-3 leaves, and shorter ones are left untouched. This trimming will create spurs to carry future fruit. In winter, shape the tree and thin any congested areas of growth to ensure good air circulation and light penetration, which keeps the tree healthy.

The fan-trained trees will benefit from small-scale pruning to maintain the shape and keep the center open. It is better to prune lightly and not remove more than a third of the tree’s growth – remember the one-third pruning rule, and you’ll avoid stressing the tree.

The main structural arms shouldn’t need replacing as they have a long lifespan. If the time comes to replace an established arm, train a strong, younger lateral over two seasons, and phase out the older limb. This is the best way to refresh the framework and maintain fruit over the years.

While most focus is on pruning, don’t ignore tying in shoots. This is an equally important task, so spend time tying shoots into the framework during the winter and summer trimming sessions.

Fruit trees can also be grown as espaliers, and apples and pears are popular fruits to grow in this way. These trained trees also need regular trimming, and, just like with fans, you prune espalier apple trees in winter and summer.

Winter is the time for renovation and dealing with congestion, while summer restricts growth and lets more light and air in to help ripen fruits.

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A backyard smoothie garden features vegetables, fruits, and herbs you can blend into a fresh homegrown smoothie packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. And you can do this in a large or small space. To help you on your way, I have picked seven perfect ingredients to grow your own smoothie.

The upsides of growing your own smoothie ingredients are that you enjoy the freshest harvests and a more sustainable gardening lifestyle. Your smoothie will taste much better and have less sugar, chemicals, preservatives, and food miles than store-bought products.

There are easy superfoods you can grow in the ground, raised beds, containers, or hanging baskets for fresh, organic produce to harvest for your healthy smoothies. Here I outline some of my favorites, along with some growing tips I’ve picked up over my years growing in various vegetable gardens, from small urban backyards to large walled kitchen gardens.

1. Kale

Kale is a trendy superfood to grow, and it can bring lots of vitamins, nutrients, fiber, and antioxidants to your smoothie. It is a wholly nutritious vegetable to grow with many health benefits.

However, when you harvest kale for smoothies, just remember to remove the tough stems, or your drink may end up a bit chewier than ideal.

Learning how to grow kale is simple. It can thrive in a vegetable garden, raised beds, or you can grow kale in pots to enjoy on a deck or balcony.

For the best harvests, keep plants covered to stop birds and insects from nibbling the leaves, and pick them as a cut-and-come-again vegetable by taking a few of the oldest, outer leaves at a time.

There are lots of different types of kale to grow, but the best for containers is dwarf blue curled, which grows to only a couple of feet tall and is hardy enough to overwinter in most climates. You can get dwarf blue curled kale seeds at Botanical Interests to sow in early spring.

2. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard is a vibrant vegetable with a rainbow of red, yellow, orange, or pink stems, depending on the variety.

However, it is the leaves you predominantly use in smoothies. The fibrous stems need chopping small and blitzing, plus too much can bring bitterness to the drink.

Chard overall has a mild taste and is packed with nutrients, vitamins, and iron. The best tactic is to combine your freshly-harvested Swiss chard with different fruits to balance out the flavors.

Thankfully, it is an easy vegetable to grow, and you can grow Swiss chard in the ground or in containers.

For success, you should plant Swiss chard seeds in spring, and you will enjoy harvests from summer onwards. A couple of key steps are to plant somewhere sunny with well-draining soil, and keep chard well watered during dry spells.

For a bright display of stems, sow these Swiss Chard ‘Bright Lights’ seeds from Burpee for a selection of colorful crops to enjoy.

3. Spinach

Spinach is a highly versatile crop for a grow-your-own smoothie garden. It is simple to grow in beds or containers, and it is another that you can harvest over a long period by picking the larger, outer leaves and letting the inner ones continue to grow.

Spinach is an excellent smoothie ingredient, not only because its mild flavor complements stronger fruits, but also because of its significant nutritional benefits. It is highly valued for being loaded with essential nutrients like vitamins, iron, magnesium, and antioxidants.

Start growing spinach in spring and, as it is a fast-growing vegetable, you can harvest baby spinach leaves within just a few weeks. As the crop is liable to bolt in hot weather, sow or plant spinach first in spring, then again in late summer or early fall for year-round harvests.

If you want to grow spinach in pots, fill a large container with a quality soil for container gardening (such as this Miracle-Gro potting mix at Amazon) and keep the plant consistently moist during hot weather to prevent bolting.

You can get bolt-resistant varieties to plant, such as these Space Spinach Seeds at Burpee, that can go from sowing to picking in as little as 40 days.

4. Beets

Beets have more health benefits than you know, including their anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties. Or how they help to lower blood pressure and improve gut health. As well as being rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, they bring sweet, earthy flavors to any smoothie – and can transform the color.

If that sounds good to you, the other dose of good news is that growing beets is really simple. There are different types of beets you can grow, including yellow and white ones, but only the red varieties have betacyanin, which is thought to suppress some forms of cancer.

You can plant beets directly into the soil after the frosts, and a great tactic is to sow successionally (every few weeks) all the way through till late summer for a long, steady harvest of beets.

Start harvesting beets once they are at least the size of a golf ball. They can be added to smoothies either raw or cooked, depending on your preference.

Detroit dark red beets are a classic variety that can be picked small and tender, and the greens are also very nutritious. You can get Detroit dark red beet seeds at Botanical Interests to sow for your homegrown smoothies.

5. Cucumber

Cucumbers can evoke images of spa retreats (picture cucumber slices on people’s eyes) and definitely have their benefits when you want to grow your own smoothie.

They bring a refreshing, sweet note, and their high water content helps with hydration. Cucumbers also offer lots of vitamins and minerals, while being low in calories.

To grow cucumbers, you often need more space than other vegetables on this list. Most cucumbers grow vertically and require a trellis or structure to train them to, but there are compact plants that produce mini cucumbers to pick if you want to grow cucumbers in pots on a deck or balcony.

You can plant cucumber seeds in spring to start plants off indoors in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill to extend the season. Alternatively, wait until after the last frosts to sow seeds outdoors.

The best cucumbers for smoothies are English cucumbers, as they have thin skin that you don’t need to peel. So growing a variety such as Telegraph Improved, which you get seeds of at Botanical Interests, removes that extra bit of work.

6. Blueberries

Blueberries are a superfood that is rich in vitamins and antioxidants. They make a healthy, versatile ingredient for any homegrown smoothie. Blueberries are not only tasty, but can aid heart health, brain function, and regular digestion, among a long list of other benefits.

The best time to plant blueberries is in spring or fall, and well-maintained bushes can last you for many years. A key to success with growing blueberries is planting them in their preferred acidic soil, which is why many gardeners grow blueberries in pots to create ideal growing conditions for the crop.

Harvest blueberries in midsummer to early fall. You can use them straight away or freeze blueberries for future use. A benefit of adding frozen homegrown blueberries to a smoothie is that, in addition to adding tangy flavor, they thicken the texture. It reduces the need to use ice.

See the range of blueberry plants at Burpee

7. Strawberries

Strawberries are a classic smoothie ingredient, but you can’t do better than growing your own strawberries to pick at home. In a nutshell, strawberries are rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, and they add a sweet, tangy flavor to any homemade smoothie.

Just like blueberries, frozen strawberries are perfect for smoothies because they provide a creamy, chilled texture without needing much ice.

Strawberry plants are readily available either bare-root or container-grown, and they can be planted in the ground, raised beds, containers, or hanging baskets. The beauty of growing strawberries in pots is that you can enjoy scrumptious homegrown pickings on a deck or patio.

It can take just a few months from planting strawberries to picking fresh strawberries to add to your smoothie.

See a range of strawberry plants at Burpee

If you want to grow your own smoothie, herbs should also be a mainstay. The likes of mint, basil, lemon balm, and rosemary all make great candidates, and you don’t need lots of space to grow herbs at home.

To help you make the most of a small space, these guides to growing herbs in pots and growing herbs indoors are full of useful information to help you get great pickings at home for homegrown smoothies.

Pruning a loquat tree is important for many reasons. It shapes the tree, controls its size, keeps it healthy, and ensures you get a good harvest of the juicy, aromatic fruits. But they are sensitive trees and can be stressed by over-pruning, so you need to be careful with the tools.

To maintain the long-term health and happiness of these tropical fruit trees, it is essential to understand both when and how to prune a loquat tree. You can grow a loquat tree in a sunny spot in a wide choice of climates and spaces, including smaller and urban gardens, when pruning becomes even more crucial to keep them compact.

The best way to approach pruning a loquat tree is to do it gently and gradually, and avoid overpruning and unnecessarily stressing the tree. To discover the best methods, I spoke with experienced gardeners and tree experts to reveal how to prune so that any loquat trees recover well and produce fruits for you to enjoy.

Why, When, and How to Prune a Loquat Tree – What the Experts Say

Loquat tree pruning is essential for a great harvest of fruits. Loquats are tip-bearing fruits, meaning they form flowers and fruit on the tips of new branches. As older branches get leggy, regular pruning shapes the tree and encourages the development of more fruiting wood and branch tips closer to the center of the tree.

Trimming loquat trees also keeps them healthy and compact, making harvesting easier. Without pruning, a loquat tree is capable of growing to over 20 feet.

The task may require several pruning tools, depending on the size of the tree, but if you need tools, this 4-in-1 pruning set at Amazon comes with pruning shears, loppers, hedge shears, and a pruning saw – it contains all you need for the job.

When to Prune a Loquat Tree

Knowing the right time to prune fruit trees is crucial for ensuring their long-term health and achieving a bountiful harvest. Not all fruit trees are pruned at the same time, though; some want a winter trim, during their dormancy, and others a late spring or summer prune. So what is it for loquat trees?

The best time to prune a loquat tree is in late winter or early spring, after the fruits have been harvested and before the fruit tree starts to grow again for the new season. This timing provides the tree with sufficient time to heal and grow strongly come spring.

There are tangible benefits to pruning a loquat tree at this time of year. One of these, says Lisa Tadewaldt, tree care expert and owner of Urban Forest Pro, is that it can make pruning easier.

‘Winter pruning allows you to clearly see the tree’s structure and make deliberate cuts without interfering with flowering or fruit development,’ claims Lisa. She adds: ‘It also minimizes stress and helps the tree direct energy efficiently when growth resumes.’

You can also prune a loquat tree lightly in the summer to remove damaged branches or unwanted water sprouts, without affecting the overall production of fruit. But Lisa advises avoiding removing too many branches in summer, warning: ‘It can reduce the tree’s ability to support fruit and increase stress during warmer months.’

One additional fruit tree pruning mistake to avoid is pruning too late in summer, particularly in some regions. Maksim Kazakou, resident botany expert at Plantum, warns against this, as he says: ‘In areas with cold winters, pruning too late won’t let new growth harden off, making it more vulnerable to low temperatures.’

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How to Prune a Loquat Tree

Loquat tree pruning requires a delicate touch and must only ever be done with clean and sharp pruning tools. Ahead of trimming, choose the goal you want to achieve and try to do that in as few cuts as possible.

The best first step is to remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as any that are crossing, rubbing, or growing inwards towards the trunk. Removing these select branches helps improve light and airflow into the canopy, which is crucial for a healthy tree.

The longest branches of the tree can then be cut back, and the overall height and shape formed by trimming them back to a leaf node and cutting at a 45-degree angle.

If the canopy still looks dense at this stage of pruning, carefully remove one or two more branches to open up congested areas. However, here it is important to be conservative with trimming, as loquats are sensitive to over-pruning.

‘Mature loquat trees often develop very dense canopies, which can tempt over-pruning,’ warns Lisa. ‘Instead of removing too much at once, it’s better to spread structural pruning over multiple years to avoid shocking the tree.’

Christy Wilhelmi, experienced gardener and founder at Gardenerd, hails the positive effects of taking a ‘gradual pruning’ approach with loquat trees, such as shaping and thinning a third of the tree at a time – and this can have a beneficial impact on yields year after year.

‘We usually recommend pruning about one-third of the tree's branches in year one, then another third in year two, and another third in year three to prevent triggering an alternate bearing habit, where the tree doesn't produce or produces very little the next year, and then produces a bumper crop the year after that,’ says Christy.

‘Gradual pruning helps maintain the canopy and keeps some fruiting tips active for next year.’

The stress from over-pruning a loquat tree shows in many ways, including reduced vigor, increased susceptibility to pests and diseases, and the vigorous growth of suckers or water sprouts. As flowering and fruting are also going to be affected, remember the one-third pruning rule and don’t prune more than this in one season.

FAQs

How Should I Prune a Young Loquat Tree?

The primary focus for the first few years after planting fruit trees is on formative pruning to get a well-shaped and healthy loquat tree.

This is done in late winter or early spring, and you should cut back long shoots (those longer than 2-3 feet) to encourage lateral, bushier growth and a well-shaped tree. It is also important to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood and crossing branches that can rub and create entry points for disease.

Ultimately, it is best to control the height at 6-12 feet to make maintenance and harvesting easier for the coming years.

Once you have a well-shaped, established tree, continue to trim it lightly each year as outlined above.

A loquat tree ranks among the best drought-tolerant fruit trees you can add to your backyard. It makes them perfect for warmer climates or any gardener looking to enjoy homegrown fruit without worrying about diligently watering plants.

If you want to enjoy a more stress-free experience with fruit trees, the likes of fig trees, pomegranates, olives, persimmons, and jujubes are also drought-tolerant trees that reward your care with tasty fruit.

Growing your own fruit is one of the most rewarding things you can do as a gardener, but it isn't always a successful venture. Take peach trees, for example, which require very particular maintenance in winter in order to set fruit the following summer.

Growing peach trees is challenging and failing to give them attention in winter can be one of the biggest mistakes, potentially wiping out next year's harvest and hindering the health of your tree. This is because frost can kill buds, preventing blossom, and therefore fruit development. Not only this, but pests and diseases can also be problematic at this time of year.

But, gardening expert Michael Clarke says there are three simple winter peach tree tasks you can do to provide essential protection from the challenges of the season and ensure a bumper harvest next year.

3 Essential Winter Peach Tree Tasks

Doing these winter peach tree tasks will help you to get your peach tree to fruit by protecting it from frost, stopping pests, and helping it to become stronger.

1. Protect Your Peach Tree From Frost

When it comes to preparing your garden for winter, it's important to put plant protection from frost in place for those that need it most. This includes protecting many fruit trees from frost, like peaches.

'Mulching will guard them against freeze damage, dehydration, and trunk injury,' says Michael.

This is the process of laying down organic matter to insulate plant roots. There are plenty of fall mulching materials readily available in the yard, like fallen leaves, but you can also purchase mulch (like this organic pine bark mulch from Amazon).

'You'll want to mulch the root zone by applying 3-4 inches of wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves around the drip line (the outer edge of the canopy where rain drips down),' he describes.

This will not only insulate peach tree roots, but it will also keep them hydrated over the winter period by improving moisture retention.

'It's also a good idea to install a frost cloth (from Amazon),' Michael adds.

This is a protective covering to stop buds becoming damaged by frost. You can use other materials, too, including using bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

2. Remove Overwintering Pests

There are lots of winter garden pests to be aware of during the coldest months of the year, many of which target peach trees.

There are a few specific peach tree pests to look out for: peach twig borer, green peach aphid, and codling moth, all of which overwinter on peach trees as larvae and eggs.

Come spring, these pests can reap havoc, causing a range of issues from feeding on new shoots and developing fruits, to weakening the tree and causing wilting, leaf distortion, and stunted growth.

This is why Michael says it's important to give your peach tree a winter wash, providing essential pest protection.

'Apply a dormant oil spray (from Amazon) in late winter when the tree isn't yet actively growing and before its buds swell. This will kill overwintering pests,' he advises.

Something to consider: many winter washing products contain chemicals that may harm beneficial insects, so it isn't necessarily the most eco-friendly gardening choice to make.

For this reason, you may decide to opt for natural pest control methods to keep your peach tree safe instead.

This includes clearing leaf piles at the base of your tree (removing hiding spots for pests) and companion planting to deter pests.

3. Prune Damaged Branches

This one is technically for early spring just before new growth: as winter comes to and end Michael urges you to prune your peach tree.

'Peaches fruit on one-year-old wood, so selective winter pruning stimulates fresh, productive shoots, removes diseased or dead branches before spring growth, and improves airflow and sunlight penetration, which ultimately reduces fungal disease and increases fruit size,' he explains.

Because these trees set fruit on one-year-old wood, it's important to be very careful with what you're removing.

'It's best to only remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood as well as crossing or rubbing branches, tall upright shoots known as 'water sprouts', and older, non-productive wood,' Michael advises.

'The goal is to create an open-center or vase shaped tree that allows the most sunlight into the center,' he explains.

You should use essential pruning tools for this, like these bypass pruning shears from Amazon. Always make sure your tools are sharp to make clean cuts and prevent damage to your tree.

FAQs

When Should I Fertilize My Peach Tree?

It's best to fertilize your peach tree in early spring, just ahead of active growth. Using a slow release granular fertilizer (like this from Amazon) will supply your tree with essential nutrients over a number of months, or you can provide an instant boost of nutrients with this liquid peach tree fertilizer from Amazon. Either way, feeding your tree in spring will support growth and fruit development. Avoid fertilizing your peach tree in fall or winter when it's dormant. This could cause root rot or root burn, and hinder the health of your tree.

If you're new to peach growing, it can be tricky to know when the fruit is ready. These fruits are climacteric, meaning they will continue ripening once harvested. But, for the best taste, check our expert advice on when to harvest peaches.

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As the temperatures drop and nights start to get frosty, you may feel nagging concerns about whether your fruit trees are going to cope with what winter brings. Don’t fret, as most are maybe hardier than you imagine, and there is no need to winterize these fruit trees unless you live in the coldest of hardiness zones.

You may have a long list of tender or borderline hardy plants that need to be moved, covered, or protected against the cold. Some of the best fruit trees are actually very cold-hardy and can survive winters as low as zones 3 or 4. Some varieties are hardier than others, but, as a whole, these trees won’t need winterizing in milder climes.

I spent years as a professional gardener in zone 8, maintaining historic gardens that featured lots of fruit trees. And those fruits never received extra winter protection. Here, I look at seven fruit trees that don’t need winterizing unless they are growing at the coldest extremes of their temperature range.

7 fruit trees that don't need winterizing

The fruit trees in this list are hardy enough to survive winter without protection in milder zones or areas without deep, prolonged winters, provided they are growing in the ground.

When you grow fruit trees in pots, however, their hardiness is affected, and their roots are more susceptible to frost. It makes them more likely to need protection in cold winters. As do newly-planted fruit trees, whose full hardiness is not reached until they are established.

1. Apples

When you grow apple trees, they are very hardy fruit trees that can survive cold temperatures in most climate zones. Most types of apple trees are hardy to zone 4, but some varieties will tolerate winter temperatures as low as zone 3.

Some of the hardiest apples include Honeycrisp (get a Honeycrisp apple tree at Fast Growing Trees), Liberty, Antonovka, and Macintosh. However, in milder climates, most apple varieties can survive winter without requiring additional attention.

I grew a wide variety of apples in zone 8. Due to the number of trees, it was impractical to winterize every one, and they survived year after year without any set protection against the cold. I didn’t grow apple trees in pots; these were either in the ground in a walled garden or in an orchard.

When planting apple trees in colder climates, pick varieties that are suited to your winter temperatures. It is also advisable to opt for later-blooming varieties to prevent delicate spring blooms from being killed by late frosts.

2. Pears

Pears are another easy fruit tree to grow, suited to both cold and milder climates. You can grow pear trees in zones 4-9, but you do want to keep them away from frost pockets, where their early blooms are vulnerable to spring frosts, to get a pear tree to fruit.

If you want to plant pear trees in colder climates, some of the hardiest varieties include Beurre Hardy, Concorde, and Conference. As long as you choose a variety suitable for your climate, it can overwinter without any assistance. Just as with apples, the pear trees in the gardens I worked in survived fine in zone 8 winters without any specific measures.

Mulching will always benefit the trees and protect the roots from cold, but don’t feel it is critical. When you live in colder zones where pears are not as hardy (zones 4 or 5), or have a variety borderline hardy for your location, overwintering them may be required.

3. Plums

Plums are a hardy fruit, and there are hundreds of different varieties. The toughest types of plum trees are American plums, which can survive down to zone 3, such as the Canada plum, American plum, and the beach plum.

Hybrid and European types of plum are moderately hardy and can tolerate down to zone 5, though it can vary depending on the particular variety. If you plant a plum tree suitable for your climate, you definitely don’t need to winterize it, as established trees should be hardy enough.

In a garden I worked in, there were plum trees trained as espalier trees. They survived cold winters without any protection, as the varieties picked were suited to the location.

It highlights the importance of picking the right types to ensure that any plum tree fruits. You may need to cover the blossom with frost cloth in spring to protect it from frost if you have an earlier-flowering variety, or a late freeze. You can get frost covers at Amazon to cover trees on freezing nights.

4. Cherries

Cherry trees make one of the best fruit trees for spring blossom. Overall, they are beautiful trees that provide color, interest, and fruit throughout the year.

Cherry trees come in tart (or sour) and sweet varieties, and it is the former that are the hardiest out of the two types. Sour cherries are hardy to zone 4, while sweet cherries are hardy to zone 5. However, some select varieties can cope with winters down to zone 3, including Juliet (you can get a Juliet cherry tree at Fast Growing Trees), Carmine Jewel, and Canada Red Select.

Cherry trees can withstand winter in milder climates without too much of a struggle, provided they are planted in a sheltered location and in well-draining soil. Strong, freezing winds can damage branches, and waterlogged soil puts the tree at risk of root rot.

It is best to plant a cherry tree in a sunny, sheltered spot, and to add organic matter, such as compost, to the site before planting. Trees will benefit from mulching in spring and protecting early blooms with fleece.

5. Persimmon

Persimmons are in the Diospyros genus. There are Asian (Diospyros kaki) and American (Diospyros virginiana) types of persimmon trees.

It is the American persimmons, which are native plants to the eastern United States, that can tolerate colder conditions. They can be grown outdoors as low as zone 4, as they can tolerate temperatures down to -25°F. It means you will need to do little to winterize the trees in most climates.

Asian persimmons, for comparison, can only tolerate as low as 14°F and can be killed by cold and wet winter weather. These trees will need winter protection in zones 7 or 8.

However, if you grow a persimmon tree in a container, its hardiness will be reduced as the roots are more susceptible to frost. They will need to be kept somewhere warm and sheltered from the worst of the winter elements.

Successful steps to winterize them may involve moving the container or wrapping the pot in a cover, such as this winter pot cover at Amazon.

6. Mulberry

Mulberry trees are suitable for growing in zones 4 to 8. In the lower part of this range, you may need to protect mulberry trees in winter, especially if the tree is young or in pots. However, as established trees can survive temperatures to -30°F, it means they can cope with winters without too many issues.

Younger and recently-planted trees may need protection from frost and snow. You can do this by wrapping plants with frost cloth or burlap (like this burlap roll at Amazon) when cold nights are predicted. Frosts don’t affect getting a mulberry tree to fruit, as these trees can take eight years to start producing a crop.

If you grow mulberry trees in pots, move them to a protected location and insulate the pot with a cover or by covering them with mulch or straw.

7. Fig

Many fig trees are surprisingly hardy, and many gardeners will not have to do anything to their tree to ensure it survives over winter. I have had several gardens with fig trees in zone 8, and they all survived our winters without the need for extra safeguarding.

However, if you live in cold zones with harsh winters, these native Mediterranean garden plants may need some protection. Fig trees can withstand temperatures as low as 14°F, and some varieties (such as Chicago Hardy, which is known as the hardiest fig, and you can get a Chicago Hardy Fig at Fast Growing Trees) may even survive down to 10°F for short periods. But no fig tree can tolerate 5°F or lower.

If you grow a fig tree in zone 7 or above, your tree should be able to survive winter, provided it is growing in the ground and in well-draining soil. Those in zones 6 or 5 will likely need to winterize fig trees. The options are to wrap trees to protect plants from the frost or grow their fig trees in pots to move them indoors for winter.

Once winter arrives, it is too late to prune fruit trees. If you want to trim the likes of apples, pears, mulberries, persimmons, and figs, it is best to wait until late winter or early spring. However, cherries and plums, along with other stone fruits such as peaches and apricots, should be pruned when they are actively growing in summer.

Bare-root fruit starts becoming available for gardeners to plant in November. These dormant plants offer a more budget-friendly way to add fruit to your garden than buying pricier container-grown ones.

Whether you want to grow fruit trees or soft fruit bushes, both can be sourced as bare-root plants to add to your garden this month. Bare-root plants can be planted anytime from November to March, as long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged. They arrive without soil around the roots, and ideally, they want to be planted right away.

I have taken advantage of the cost-effectiveness of bare-root fruit over the years. I’ve bought and planted bare-root fruit trees and bushes in gardens I worked in, or in my growing plot at home. They always offer great value and are easy to deal with, so I want to take this opportunity to highlight some of my best fruits to plant in November.

7 fruits to plant in November

Late fall and early winter can be a potentially busy time when growing fruit. We have mentioned already that it is a perfect time for planting, but the window to prune apples, pears, quince, medlars, grapes, and currants also opens. There is no rush, though, as you have until late winter to do your fruit tree pruning, but the above are all jobs to consider adding to your fall gardening checklist.

1. Blueberries

• Hardiness - Zones 4-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny and sheltered
• Fruits - Midsummer to early fall

Blueberries are stunning plants that produce tasty berries packed with vitamins and antioxidants. They are native plants to the US, with varieties of blueberries suited to different climates from US hardiness zone 4 to 9.

The two main types are the northern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum), suited for colder climates and by far the most common type of blueberries for home growers, and the lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium), more commonly seen in the wild or on farms. Some blueberry varieties are self-fertile, but all will do better with a partner plant.

The best time to plant blueberries is in the fall or early spring. You can get container-grown and bare-root blueberries in the fall to plant in a sunny and sheltered area of the yard. They prefer moist soil types and a more acidic soil pH.

To create a perfect environment for growing blueberries, test your soil beforehand. You can incorporate some ericaceous compost into beds or grow blueberries in pots filled with a compost for acid-loving plants.

You can get bare-root highbush blueberry plants at Amazon to plant this month.

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2. Gooseberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Mid-to-late-summer

Gooseberries are renowned for their heavy crops of tangy fruits for use in sweet and savory dishes. The fruits tend to be green or red, with the edible berries typically classified as culinary, dessert or dual-purpose.

The good news is that gooseberries are self-fertile, so you can get a harvest with just one bush, though any yield will improve with multiple plants.

You can grow gooseberries as standard bushes, or they can be trained to grow against walls for harvests in smaller spaces. Plant them in fall or spring in a sunny, sheltered spot, though gooseberries can grow in shade.

They like moist, well-draining soil, and bushes should be at least 6-8 feet apart. It would be a gooseberry growing mistake to crowd plants together, as they won’t yield well and will be at increased risk of fungal diseases due to a lack of air circulation.

Keep gooseberries well-watered, regularly fed, and pruned annually once established to give the bush a strong shape. You prune gooseberries in late winter to early spring, and the bush benefits from a good mix of the most productive wood for the best yield.

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3. Aronia berries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Late summer to fall

Aronia berries, also known as chokeberries, are cold-hardy fruit bushes ideal for gardeners in northern climates, as you can get a crop down to US hardiness zone 3.

The bushes are covered in strong, tart berries rich in vitamins and antioxidants. These are best enjoyed cooked, though, as freshly-picked fruits will not be to everyone’s taste.

Grow aronia berries in a spot where they can get six to eight hours of sunlight a day, and in slightly acidic, well-drained soil. For comparison, aronia berries do like the same conditions as blueberries, making the two a good partner crop in any productive fruit garden.

The bushes are best planted in fall or spring, and the addition of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, before planting will improve the structure, water retention, and boost soil nutrients, to get newly planted aronia berries off to a great start in their new home.

4. Currants

• Hardiness - Zone 3 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun or partial shade
• Fruits - Summer

Currant bushes are reliable, high-cropping soft fruits for any garden. The fruits are high in vitamins and antioxidants, and the bushes can be cold-hardy down to zone 3.

Whether you choose blackcurrants, redcurrants, whitecurrants, or pinkcurrants (the latter of which makes a more unusual fruit to grow), you’ll be able to enjoy masses of fruits year after year for jams, syrups, jellies, snacking, or to add to desserts.

Plant container-grown or bare-root currant bushes in the fall. The best spot is full sun; the plants can grow in part shade, but the fruits will be sweeter and riper if they get the most sun. However, in the warmest US hardiness zones, try to give them some shade from the scorching afternoon rays.

Currants can be grown as free-standing bushes or trained to grow as fans or cordons, so you can get great fruit harvests in smaller spaces. Protecting the soft fruit with netting once the berries are forming will prevent birds from stealing all your precious fruit.

For a beautiful and tasty addition, this bare-root Red Rovada currant bush at Burpee provides late-season harvests of juicy red fruits.

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5. Rhubarb

• Hardiness - Zones 3-8 (depending on the variety)
• Location - Full sun
• Fruits - Spring to early summer

Rhubarb blurs the lines a bit; it is botanically a vegetable, but used as a fruit in pies, desserts, and crumbles. As it pairs so well with other fruits in this list in baking, it seems worthy of inclusion here, especially as fall is an ideal time to plant rhubarb.

The simplest and most cost-effective way to start growing rhubarb in the fall is by planting dormant crowns. You can also divide rhubarb crowns in the fall for new plants, provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.

It can be confusing with dormant crowns, as they resemble an old clump of solid root, and are far from what a traditional plant looks like. But don’t make the rhubarb mistake of planting the section upside down. Look for buds or signs of old growth to identify the top, and plant it with these bits just slightly above the soil line.

You will need a bit of patience when you plant rhubarb in the fall. Don’t harvest any rhubarb in the first year; instead, allow the plant to focus on developing a strong set of roots. That patience pays off, as a rhubarb crown can live for a decade or more.

I have grown 'Victoria' rhubarb in many gardens, as it is a delicious and reliable variety. You can get a pack of two dormant bare-root 'Victoria' rhubarb crowns from Burpee to add to your yard.

6. Raspberries

• Hardiness - Zones 3-9 (depending on variety)
• Location - Sunny
• Fruits - Summer or fall (depending on variety)

Bare-root raspberries are commonly available to plant from late fall to early spring. You can plant raspberries at any time when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged in a sunny spot in your garden.

Raspberries thrive in sunny and sheltered spots and fertile soil enriched with lots of organic matter. You can grow raspberries in pots, but they will have a shorter lifespan than canes planted in the ground.

You will see different types of raspberries to grow when shopping for bare-root plants. The main distinction between the two is summer-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries. They differ by when they crop (as the titles suggest) and also how you should train and prune raspberries each year.

An easy way to reward yourself with the biggest, tastiest, and longest harvest of fruits from your raspberry plants is to plant a mixture of the types.

I also advise alternatives to traditional red raspberries, such as planting yellow or black fruits, such as this Fall Gold bare-root plant from Burpee, which produces pale yellow fruits.

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7. Top Fruit

There are many fruit trees you can plant this month. It is an ideal time to add bare-root fruit to your garden for years of wonderful harvests. The likes of apple trees, pear trees, plum trees, cherry trees, and more can all be planted during dormancy, starting in late fall.

All fruit trees will benefit from compost or well-rotted manure added to the planting site ahead of time. However, do not fertilize fruit trees with additional feed in the planting hole.

You want newly-planted trees to put out strong roots in search of water and nutrients, while adding product into the hole actually encourages the roots to remain there rather than spread, which risks the long-term stability of the tree.

After planting new fruit trees, it is advisable to stake them and mulch around the base to retain moisture and smother weeds. If you fear rabbits or other pests may nibble them, you can protect the bark with tree protectors, such as these at Amazon.

Now that you’ve identified some fruits to plant in November, here’s a quick planting tip to help your new plants establish faster in their new environment. When you plant fruit trees or bushes, add some mycorrhizal fungi around the roots.

Using granular mycorrhizal fungi like this at Amazon when planting helps fruit trees or shrubs establish, as they can absorb additional water and essential plant nutrients through forming a symbiotic relationship with the fungi. This one-off application, when planting, is all that is required throughout the plant’s lifetime.

Growing citrus trees in pots is a great way to enjoy the luscious foliage and delicious, fragrant fruits without a Mediterranean climate. After a summer outside to soak up the sun, you do need to overwinter citrus trees when the temperatures drop in the fall.

This was an annual routine I undertook while caring for a large collection of citrus trees, including varieties of lemons, oranges, and limes, at a historic garden in the Midlands of the UK (US hardiness zone 8). The trees spent the colder months in an old orangery and were put on display outside for the warmer months.

October and November are prime months to start the process of overwintering citrus trees in pots. If you need to move yours indoors and haven't done it yet, consider this a call to action. To help you with overwintering citrus, I look at five key steps to follow to prepare the trees for winter and keep them healthy during their months indoors.

A guide to overwintering citrus trees in pots - 5 steps to follow

Growing citrus in pots opens up possibilities for gardeners in cooler climates to enjoy cultivating the tender fruits.

The plants can live year-round in protected environments, such as a greenhouse or conservatory, or be brought outside as patio plants for the summer to give a Mediterranean garden feel, before being moved back indoors to overwinter once the temperatures drop.

If you want to know more about overwintering citrus trees, the following are five key steps to follow for healthy trees:

1. Keep an eye on temperatures

Be proactive and ready to act quickly once the timing is right. That includes monitoring your temperatures and weather forecasts to move tender plants indoors ahead of predicted cold blasts.

Citrus trees are frost-tender. They like warm conditions and minimum temperatures of 50°F; though their cold tolerance varies depending on the type and cultivar.

While some lemon varieties can tolerate temperatures below 40°F, their hardiness is reduced in containers. When growing fruit trees in pots, the trees' roots are more susceptible to frost than when growing in the ground.

Be prepared to start overwintering citrus trees once temperatures consistently head down to around 50°F, and certainly before the first hard frost for your climate. Citrus trees can be damaged at around 25-28°F.

While growers in US hardiness zones 10 and above can keep citrus outdoors year-round, those in zones 8-9 should move their plants indoors between mid-October and mid-November. While in zones 7 and below, it may be early to mid-October.

If you live in a climate where overwintering citrus trees is required, add it to your fall gardening checklist and monitor the forecasts, as you may need to go early if there is a sudden drop in temperatures.

2. Prepare the tree for winter

Citrus trees are susceptible to all manner of unwanted pests, including aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites.

These pests can survive and thrive indoors over winter, away from many of their usual predators. It is best to try to deal with them and avoid them breeding during the winter.

Many small insects can be knocked off the tree with a strong jet of water, while you can spray trees with insecticidal soap to get rid of aphids and other insects. You can purchase a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart that can be sprayed onto trees to control a variety of insects.

A DIY solution is to make a homemade bug spray from water and liquid soap to deal with infestations. Spray the citrus tree weekly until the infestation is gone.

You can take this opportunity to lightly prune citrus trees, removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and making small cuts to shape the tree so it can conveniently fit indoors.

3. Bring them indoors

The ideal location for overwintering citrus trees indoors is bright and warm. They still want as much light as possible, ideally five hours of direct sunlight a day, in a greenhouse, conservatory, sunroom, or in front of a bright window.

Keep the trees at temperatures between 55°F and 65°F. Avoid placing them near heat sources, such as radiators, fireplaces, or heating ducts, which can dry the leaves, or near fluctuating temperatures caused by cold drafts or air conditioners.

One often neglected part of overwintering plants indoors is preparing them for life inside. Just as you harden plants off to go outside, you should do a similar thing before bringing them back inside.

Marina Prokaten, expert at the identifier and plant care app Plantum, advises you to 'expose the greenery to warmth gradually' rather than just bring the tree inside and be done with it.

'The shocking change in temperature may, at the very least, make your plant sick, and, in the worst but possible case, cause its death,' warns Marina.

She recommends first moving the citrus tree to a 'cooler location' outdoors for two days.

'Next, let it spend some time of the day inside, at temperatures similar to the cool ones it's experienced outside, for a week. Make sure to increase the time your plant spends indoors bit by bit,' adds Marina.

'Lastly, move the acclimated citrus tree to its permanent location.'

4. Reduce watering

Overwintering citrus trees still need watering throughout the colder months, only at a reduced level compared to during the warmer summer time.

To gauge when to water plants in containers, use your fingers to assess the levels two or three inches underneath the surface or use a soil moisture meter, such as this 3-in-1 soil meter at Amazon. Water plants deeply once the top few inches are dry.

However, take care not to overwater plants, as citrus trees dislike sitting in wet soil during the colder times of year. This watering mistake can cause the leaves of the citrus tree to turn yellow and drop.

To help with drainage, it is recommended to raise the pots off the ground using pot risers, such as these heavy-duty hexagonal pot feet at Amazon. Using pot feet helps excess water to drain away, preventing waterlogging and root rot.

Citrus trees do like humidity, so it can help them to mist the leaves regularly when growing indoors.

5. Adjust your feeding regime

In a similar vein to watering, continue to fertilize citrus trees in containers indoors over winter, but reduce the frequency of feeding compared to a summer regime.

With the citrus collection I helped maintain, the feeding regime dropped to once a month when the trees were overwintering, compared to every other week during the summer months.

While overwintering citrus indoors, feed plants with a balanced citrus-specific fertilizer to support overall development and health. For example, this citrus fertilizer at Amazon has an NPK of 6-4-6 and can be sprinkled around the tree monthly, mixed into the top inch of soil, and watered in.

FAQs

What is the lowest temperature a citrus tree can survive?

It all depends on the type of citrus tree, as some are much more cold-hardy than others. Many of the most common types, such as lemons, limes, and oranges, are severely damaged by temperatures in the mid-to-high 20s. There are some types, such as kumquats and satsuma mandarins, that can tolerate as low as 18°F. Most trees can tolerate short periods of low temperatures, but can be critically damaged by several hours of such cold.

A banana tree is another fruit tree that needs overwintering in colder climates, as frosts can kill the tropical tree. You can overwinter banana trees as tropical houseplants if you have the space. An alternative is to cut the plants back to 4-8 inches from the ground and overwinter the stump in a container in a cool, frost-free location.

There are the classic fruits commonly seen in gardens, such as apples, pears, and raspberries. However, there are also unique and occasionally unknown fruits that are rarely seen, which I believe is a pity. These are the plants I want to highlight here as I explore some of the more unusual fruits to grow at home.

I grew many different fruits during my years as a professional kitchen gardener, ranging from the usual choices to some more exotic ones (well, they were exotic for the northern regions of the UK). As fall is an ideal time to plant fruit trees and soft fruit bushes, it seems a perfect opportunity to look at some unique fruit trees and quirky soft fruits.

To put together this list of unusual fruits to grow, I look back on my own gardening experiences to date and also hear from some expert fruit growers. If you are looking for something a bit different that can impress and provide a bumper crop, this is well worth reading.

7 Unusual Fruits to Grow

For each of the following, I look at what makes them unusual fruits to grow, why they are well worth planting, and the conditions they need in which to thrive. It means you should be able to find something unique and mouth-watering to grow in your climate and your space, as most of these fruits can be grown in containers in smaller spaces.

1. Buddha's Hand

Buddha's hand (Citrus medica var. sarcodactylis) is a unique variety of citrus tree, and the large, bright yellow fruit resembles lots of fingers. It is a distinctive fruit in the citron family with a long history, going back centuries to South or East Asia.

'Grown in warm, frost-free climates, it stands out for its striking appearance and strong lemon fragrance rather than pulp or juice,' says Erin Mittelstaedt, CEO of The FruitGuys.

'Highly aromatic, it's prized for zesting, candying, and adding flavor to sauces or salads, as well as for its unique visual appeal in displays.'

Buddha's hand trees reach 6-8 feet and are suitable for growing outdoors in US hardiness zones 9-11. However, you can grow the fruit tree in pots in US hardiness zones 3 and above, if you overwinter plants indoors in a protected position.

You can get a Buddha's Hand citron tree at Fast Growing Trees to grow indoors or outdoors. It makes an ideal indoor fruit tree, provided it is placed in a greenhouse, conservatory, or near a south-facing window where it receives at least six hours of sunlight daily.

2. Pinkcurrants

You may know of blackcurrants, even redcurrants or whitecurrants, but what about pinkcurrants? These are rarer than those mentioned above and produce pale-pink, translucent fruits with a beautiful fragrance and sweet taste in mid-to-late July.

I grew pinkcurrants in a walled garden in the UK, and the plants were easy to grow and looked glorious when covered in fruit. The most common type of pinkcurrants is 'Pink Champagne', which is the variety I cultivated, and you can get live 'Pink Champagne' currant bushes at Amazon if you want to grow these unusual fruits in your own garden.

Pinkcurrant bushes thrive in US hardiness zones 3-8, planted in a sunny position with fertile, well-draining soil. Plant bushes at least five feet apart and take care to water deeply during dry spells while the fruits are developing. It can be advisable to net the bushes in summer to prevent birds from stealing all your crop.

3. Jujube

Jujube (Ziziphus jujube) is also known as the red Chinese date. This is because the fruits turn reddish-brown and start to wrinkle when they are ready to harvest, taking on a similar appearance to a date. The precise harvesting time can range from late summer to October, depending on your region.

'The dates aren't as sweet as dates you find in the store, but they are delicious dried,' says Anna Hackman, a Rutgers Master Gardener and owner at The Naked Botanical. 'When they are green, they resemble the taste of an apple. When they are dried, they resemble more of a not-too-sweet date.'

A jujube tree can reach 15 to 30 feet and is suitable for US hardiness zones 6 to 9. The fruit tree wants a planting spot with 6-8 hours of daily sunlight and fertile, well-drained soil.

If you want to grow a jujube tree, two pieces of advice from Anna are that they can be thorny (so wear gloves to prune) and 'do tend to sucker', so they need regular pruning to remove these unwanted shoots.

Get a Honey Jar Jujube Tree at Fast Growing Trees

Get a live four-foot potted Jujube Tree at Amazon

4. Finger Limes

The finger lime, or caviar lime (Citrus australasica), is a compact tree that differs from the traditional Mediterranean lime trees, and the fruit it grows is definitely unique.

Rather than the usual lime fruits, the finger lime produces distinctive finger-shaped fruits that contain lots of tiny pale seeds. Erin Mitteldtaedt describes them as: 'Tiny, pearl-like juice vesicles, often called citrus caviar, that pop with zesty lime flavor.'

'They're packed with Vitamin C and antioxidants, which support immune health and may help reduce inflammation,' she adds.

Finger lime trees prosper in warm subtropical to tropical climates. They can grow outside in zones 9-11, but their compact nature makes them suitable for containers if you want to grow a lime tree in a pot. Trees in containers can spend their summers outside in zones 3 and up, before overwintering indoors.

To get a lime tree to fruit, plant it in an area that receives 6-8 hours of sunlight a day and feed the plant regularly with a dedicated citrus feed, such as these citrus fertilizer spikes available on Amazon.

If you want something particularly eye-catching, this pink finger lime tree at Amazon grows distinctive pink finger-shaped fruits, packed with pink vesicles.

5. Persimmon

You can get Asian persimmon trees (Diospyros kaki) and American persimmon trees (Diospyros virginiana). The primary difference between the two is size, hardiness, and the size of the fruit.

All persimmon trees offer spectacular ornamental beauty, offering year-round interest from the striking spring blossoms to yellow-orange foliage in the fall. Then there is the pumpkin-shaped fruit, which can be yellow, orange, or red, with its custard-like flesh and mango-like taste, that truly makes these unusual fruit trees stand out.

Brie Zettl, director of horticultural production at Stark Bro's Nurseries & Orchards, claims growing Asian persimmons, which produce larger fruit, allows you to 'visit the Far East in your own backyard'. She adds: 'The showy fruit from the land of the rising sun resembles a rising sun itself.'

Persimmon trees can grow in US hardiness zones 4-9, depending on the variety, as American persimmons are more cold-hardy. Varieties can reach 20-20 feet tall, but there are dwarf cultivars available if you want to grow a persimmon tree in a container. If you do want a persimmon tree to fruit, look for self-fertile varieties or plant more than one tree.

You can plant persimmon seeds and try to grow your own, which does come with the risk of low germination rates, or purchase a live persimmon tree at Amazon to plant in your backyard to experience the joys of this fantastic fruit tree.

6. Honeyberries

Honeyberries (Lonicera caerulea) are fruits, but in the honeysuckle family. The unique fruit resembles an elongated blueberry, but tastes like a cross between blueberries and raspberries. They are early-season fruits that ripen in late May and early June.

A fantastic reason to grow honeyberry plants, apart from the distinctive fruits, is that they are very cold-hardy fruits that can grow all the way down to US hardiness zone 2.

Whether in the ground or in containers, plant them in full sun, though honeyberries can happily grow in a part-shade spot. In warmer climates, keep them protected from hot afternoon sun.

You do need to plant two bushes to get fruit, spaced at least five feet apart, that can be planted in fall or spring into well-draining, slightly acidic soil. Honeyberries tend to enjoy the same conditions as growing blueberries.

You can get a bare-root starter honeyberry plant at Walmart to add to your fruit garden.

7. Pawpaw

Pawpaw trees (Asimina triloba) are native plants to North America, and the largest native edible fruit. Reasons to grow a pawpaw fruit are that you get tropical fruits without the need for a tropical climate, as pawpaws enjoy warm summers yet can tolerate colder winters; indeed, they are suitable for US hardiness zones 5-9.

Brie Zettl highlights Pawpaw 'Pennsylvania Golden' as 'a must-have species for native plant lovers'. You can get a Pawpaw 'Pennsylvania Golden' at Stark Bros' to add this compact tree to your backyard.

She says: 'It is an attractive small tree with tropical-looking, large leaves and striking yellow fall color. It produces fruit with a taste and texture reminiscent of banana and makes a lovely custard dessert.'

Compact varieties of pawpaw trees offer the luxury of enjoying large, tasty, tropical fruits even in smaller backyards, and, while many varieties need another tree for pollination, there are self-fertile cultivars available.

Plant a pawpaw tree in a sunny spot in the backyard, and, once established, always prune a pawpaw tree in late winter.

For an unusual twist on a popular fruit bush, you could consider a 'Pink Lemonade' blueberry. As the name suggests, this cultivar produces striking pink blueberries in late summer and offers a unique alternative to the usual blue fruits. The pink berries also have a more citrussy flavour than traditional blueberries.

You can plant blueberries in the fall or spring, and get live 'Pink Lemonade' Blueberry starter plants at Amazon to grow a unique crop of berries to dazzle friends, family, and neighbours.

If there's one thing you've likely heard gardeners say over and over again, it's just how valuable heirloom fruit and vegetable varieties are. These are varieties that have proven the test of time, often passed down through generations of gardeners and farmers, and reliably crop every year with resistance to pests and diseases.

One of the best places to find inspiration for heirloom varieties to grow is kitchen gardens, and I recently had the privilege of visiting the iconic walled kitchen garden at the luxury hotel Gravetye Manor in Sussex, England. It was formerly the home of renowned Victorian horticulturalist and garden author William Robinson, and today the kitchen garden serves the hotel's Michelin Star restaurant.

Tom Coward, Gravetye Manor's Head Gardener, is passionate about growing the very best flavors he can. He revealed to me the trick is not only relying on heirloom varieties, but also using heritage techniques, and throwing modern crops into the mix. It's this recipe that allows him to grow such high-quality crops and, as he notes, 'flavors you simply can't buy'.

Gravetye Manor's Heritage Growing

Heirloom seeds are found in kitchen gardens after being passed down for their exceptional qualities, not only in flavor but also in ease of growing. This is often because they are open-pollinated, meaning they are pollinated naturally by the wind, insects, or birds, which allows them to maintain their characteristics as seeds are saved and grown again.

It's something quite fitting for Gravetye Manor's history. William Robinson first constructed the walled kitchen garden around 1900. It did fall into disuse over many decades after he died in 1935, but in 2010, Tom Coward joined Gravetye and began an incredible restoration project. Today, it's one of the last large-scale Victorian walled kitchen gardens in full working use.

'Growing food was incredibly important to William because he grew up poor and lived through the Great Hunger. It was essential we restored that value of the garden and continue to protect it through our growing,' he describes.

Today, the walled kitchen garden has impressive beds of brassicas, root vegetables, legumes, fruit trees, soft fruits, and more. Within, Tom and his team grow a mix of heritage and modern varieties every year.

'Some of the crops we grow here are very old,' Tom notes. 'But, arguably the most important part of protecting the garden's heritage value is in the Victorian techniques we use, even for modern varieties, keeping that side of heritage growing alive.'

Some of these methods include growing peach trees in a Victorian glasshouse to protect them from issues like peach leaf curl (a fungal disease worsened by excessive rainfall). 'Allowing peaches to ripen on the branch under glass creates a delicious, intense flavor,' Tom says.

Tom and his team also make use of the engineering of the walled garden, which is purposely shaped elliptically to funnel out cold air through a frost gate and create a warm microclimate.

'We also have a crop rotation system,' Tom notes. 'We grow different vegetables in each bed and rotate them to prevent replant disease.'

This is where a crop struggles to grow in the same spot as before, due to a build-up of pests and diseases, and a lack of soil nutrients. By rotating where a crop is planted, they can grow stronger and more reliably.

'Heirloom varieties are important, but to get the best flavors from fruit and vegetables, we have modern ones in the mix. I think the best way to represent heritage is to plant the best possible varieties for flavor,' he adds, the approach he believes William himself would use.

'By using these techniques, I get to see the whole process from making our own compost, right the way through to the Michelin Star dish,' Tom says.

5 Kitchen Garden Varieties from Gravetye Manor

I asked Tom to share his top five crops growing at Gravetye Manor, and here's what he picked out:

'Howgate Wonder' apple – this is an heirloom variety originating in the Isle of Wight in the 1910s. It grows best across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8, and Tom notes it produces one of the tastiest juices.

Florence fennel – an heirloom vegetable, growing best across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9. It is exceptionally fragrant and is a popular salad ingredient.

Find Florence fennel seeds at Burpee.

'Wonder Tree Doyenne du Comice' pear – a delicious heirloom pear, originating in mid-1800s France. In the US, it's best grown across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9. This pear is considered a dessert pear, loved for its sweet flavor.

'Cylindra' beetroot – an unusual heirloom beetroot, with cylindrical taproots (hence the name). Hardy across US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 10, it makes an excellent addition to root vegetable patches, looking attractive when growing as well as providing sweet, earthy flavor.

Find 'Cylindra' beetroot seeds on Amazon.

'Avalon Pride' peach – not an heirloom variety, but a highly resistant peach tree. At Gravetye Manor, it grows on the south wall of the kitchen garden with resistance to peach leaf curl. It grows best in US hardiness zone 5.

If Gravetye Manor's heritage growing has inspired you to start growing your own fruit and vegetables, our guide to planning a kitchen garden may be useful. Make sure to also read up on vegetable gardening mistakes to aid your success.

For those living in colder, wetter climes, the idea of growing your own peaches seems like something of an unachievable dream. But what if I told you there's one hack that dates back to the Victorian era, allowing the rainiest of regions to have homegrown, fresh peaches every year?

It's a technique that has been used at Gravetye Manor in Sussex, England, since world-renowned horticulturalist William Robinson acquired the property in 1884. I had the privilege of recently visiting this astounding Elizabethan property, where Head Gardener Tom Coward let me in on some secrets of the garden's incredible success with growing peaches.

It's all to do with where these trees are located: a Victorian glasshouse. And while growing peach trees in a greenhouse seems like a simple solution, it's only when you look at all the things it protects against, from leaf curl to frost, that you can appreciate just how problem-solving this Victorian horticultural staple is.

Gravetye Manor's Victorian Peach Glasshouse

'We plant peach trees out of tradition,' says Tom Coward. 'William planted peaches and it nods to Victorian growing by using the glasshouses.'

William Robinson was an influential garden writer and horticulturist. His move to Gravetye Manor in 1884 was the beginning of a 50-year garden transformation, whereby he used the 1000+ acres of land to bring his horticultural visions to life.

Today, his vision endures through the dedicated team of gardeners at Gravetye, with an impressive kitchen garden, flower garden, bulb meadow, and more. One of the biggest highlights: the fruit trees.

'You can grow peaches outside here and we've got one growing outside in our walled kitchen garden on the south wall,' Tom says.

'But, the thing about peaches in this country is they get a disease called peach leaf curl if it's been very wet,' he adds.

Peach leaf curl is a fungal disease that causes leaves to become distorted and turn red, often resulting in curling. This subsequently weakens the plant and hinders fruit production. It's worsened by excess rainfall because it allows the fungal spores to spread and creates a moist environment for the disease to thrive in.

This is a problem for chillier, wetter areas of the US, too, with peach trees generally being best-suited to US hardiness zone 6 to zone 8. Although this does depend on the variety – you can find a peach tree for your hardiness zone at Nature Hills.

At Gravetye, this issue is prevented by simply using a Victorian glasshouse. Inside, four impressive peach trees are found growing in beds, including the varieties 'Amsden June' and 'Red Haven.'

'By putting them under glass, you don't get peach leaf curl. You get high-quality fruit early in the season, and you can keep the squirrels away,' says Tom.

'The blossom also never gets frosted, which of course can stop a peach tree fruiting,' he continues. 'I find this is the way to have the best flavor of peach, as they can ripen just fine under glass while still attached to the tree.'

The glasshouse here dates back to William's time, though a restoration in 2012 returned it to pristine condition.

Glasshouses went through a boom during the Victorian era due to a number of reasons, including technological advances, a repeal of the glass tax, making materials more accessible, and innovations in ventilation, heating, and glazing, allowing tropical plants to be grown in this sort of environment.

This growing tradition continues at Gravetye Manor, allowing them to harvest peaches reliably every summer.

Top Tips for Growing Peach Trees in a Greenhouse

Of course, a glasshouse can be costly and space-consuming. But, if you have space for a sizeable greenhouse, you can use this trick in your backyard with compact peach trees and fruit tees to grow in pots.

If you do have the room to plant peach trees in the ground in a greenhouse, make sure to use a well-draining soil type, as they don't enjoy sitting in waterlogged soil.

It can also be helpful to train your peach trees for better ventilation, such as oblique cordon training, fan or espalier, if you have an appropriate wall. Pruning your peach tree is essential for training.

When growing peach trees in a greenhouse, it's also important to ventilate your greenhouse by opening vents and windows. This will reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases and prevent overheating in summer, which can stress your tree and hinder your ability to get a peach tree to fruit.

If you're wondering when to harvest peaches, look for signs like the fruit turning yellow and blushing. It should also give a little when you put pressure on it, and it should have a sweet aroma. The typical harvesting season is through summer, though, as Tom points out, when growing under cover, you are more likely to harvest earlier.

The key to overwintering strawberries is to protect the roots from freezing and ensure the crown does not rot. Strawberry plants are hardy down to zone 3, depending on the variety, when growing in the ground. Plants can often survive winter with a covering of mulch protecting their roots from the frosts above. However, when you grow strawberries in containers or hanging baskets, it is not so simple.

When you grow strawberries in pots, the roots are more exposed; they do not have the luxury of all that soil surrounding them. There may only be a thin layer of compost in the container between them and the dangerous frosts, which will come at the roots from all angles.

It means that strawberries in containers need protection in zones 7 and below. However, there are some simple ways to overwinter strawberries in pots and ensure they get through the coldest months and come out prospering, so you can get harvests the following year. Here, we take a close look at the three best ways to overwinter strawberries in pots, so you can decide which works best for you.

Will Strawberries Overwinter in Pots?

Simply put, yes, strawberries can overwinter in pots, but they do need some assistance.

The exact hardiness of your plants will depend on the type of strawberry you are growing. At the end of one growing season, you can simply discard them and plant strawberries afresh next year. However, treating them as annuals is wasteful, especially as winterizing strawberry plants in containers isn't taxing.

I have grown strawberries for many years. They were a fixture in many kitchen gardens I worked in, as I cultivated and carefully picked the delicate fruits for chefs. We took steps in the gardens to overwinter plants successfully, and it always started with removing dead or diseased foliage, which was essential for keeping the plants healthy and combating strawberry plant diseases.

Pruning strawberries in that gentle way should be the first job on your fall gardening checklist if you want to overwinter strawberries in pots, too. Then you can pick from one of the following three ways:

1. Move Pots Indoors

If you have an unheated building that can provide protection, you can easily overwinter strawberries in pots in there. It can be an unheated garage, shed, barn, basement, or cold frame. Anywhere that is frost-free and dry, where the plants can be sheltered from the worst of the winter weather.

However, it does not want to get too warm through winter, no more than 45°F. You are not aiming to grow strawberries indoors in this way. You want to keep the plant alive and prevent the roots or crown from dying, rather than have the plant actively growing.

The plant will need little watering over winter. Check every few weeks and lightly water if required to just stop the soil from completely drying out.

If you want to make moving containers easier, consider using a plant caddy with wheels, such as this one on Amazon. Such aids are adjustable and suitable for a range of pot sizes. They reduce the need for lots of kneeling or bending when moving pots and overwintering plants indoors.

2. Sink Pots in the Ground

If you are short of space to move plants indoors, there is the option of planting the containers in the ground.

Using this method, the strawberries benefit from the same insulation courtesy of the soil as those living full-time in the ground. This method can be useful if you have space in vegetable gardens, kitchen gardens, or flower beds after removing annual flowers or crops at the end of the season.

If you want to overwinter strawberries in pots in this way, it works best for plants in plastic containers. If you grow strawberries in terracotta pots, it is better to repot them into plastic, as the terracotta pots can crack and break if the ground freezes and thaws.

Burying pots is also unsuitable if you use strawberry pots or towers, which are tall pots with side planting holes, like this attractive ceramic strawberry pot at Wayfair.

Plant the container in the soil so that the rim is flush with the ground, and mulch over the top of the plants with a 4-to 6-inch layer of straw or shredded leaves.

3. Insulate the Pots

In more borderline climates, or if the above two methods are not possible for you, you can overwinter strawberries in pots outdoors, provided you give them adequate protection. The key element is to protect the container plants from winter weather, primarily sheltering the roots from frost damage.

You can move pots to sheltered corners of the yard and group pots together to retain warmth and have added protection from the wind.

For extra shelter, you can surround the pots with bubble wrap or stuff straw between the containers to insulate against cold air that can circulate the pots during the winter. Plus, you can also use straw on top of the pot to protect the crown.

Alternatively, you can insulate individual pots if you don't have enough to take advantage of grouping them. The options for this include wrapping pots with burlap or using insulated pot covers for winter.

Come spring, the time arrives to wake up your strawberry plants after the last frost, once they are no longer at risk from the winter weather. Lift them if they were sunken in the ground, remove any mulch from the top of the plants, and start watering plants as needed to get them off to a strong start to the season.

Early to mid-spring is also an ideal time to fertilize strawberries with a balanced feed, such as this organic all-purpose fertilizer at Walmart. Such a product provides all the essential plant nutrients for strong growth and a great crop of strawberries to pick.

When you think of an indoor garden, your mind likely goes to abundant tropical plants offering plenty of ornamental value. But, this isn't the only possibility for growing plants indoors. There are actually lots of edible indoor plants that can turn your indoor jungle into a multi-sensory experience.

Alongside the best indoor plants, enhance your indoor garden with aromatic herbs, vegetables, and even fruit trees. That's right, it's possible to grow some of your favorite elements of your kitchen garden indoors.

And while they are delicious ingredients to have in your home, they also offer plenty of beauty and green interest. Here, indoor plant experts share their top edible indoor plants for both flavor and aesthetics, plus tips on growing them.

5 Delicious Edible Indoor Plants

The best edible indoor plants don't just include your indoor herb garden. There are plenty of kitchen garden crops that can be grown indoors for ornamental and edible ('edimental') value.

1. Rosemary

This is an aromatic herb that will fill your kitchen with a delicious perfume. Plus, the tall sprigs of rosemary add some height to herb displays. When growing rosemary indoors, there are a few requirements to meet.

'Rosemary requires bright light to do well indoors. Place the plant in front of a southern window or under full-spectrum lighting that is on 14 hours a day,' advises Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

'Avoid overwatering the plant, especially in the winter months, as they are susceptible to root rot,' she adds.

To harvest rosemary so it continues growing, use these herb snips from Amazon to take just the green leafy stems, not the woody parts.

Find a rosemary plant from Walmart.

2. Lemon Tree

It may surprise you to have a fruit tree indoors, but there are plenty of them that can grow well in an indoor environment. In fact, if you live in a colder clime, it can even be ideal for some fruit trees to grow indoors.

The trick to getting them to fruit indoors is choosing a fruit tree that is self-pollinating, not dependent on pollinators for fruit production. A lemon tree is the perfect fit, though hand-pollination will increase the likelihood of a greater harvest.

'Place them in front of a southern or western window or under full-spectrum grow lights that are on 16 hours a day,' Julie advises. 'Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and fertilize your lemon tree two or three times a year with a citrus fertilizer (from Amazon),' she adds.

To be successful with growing a lemon tree indoors, consider also choosing varieties more suited for indoor growing. This includes 'Improved Meyer' (plant from Amazon) and 'Ponderosa' (plant from Amazon).

'If your home is cooler than 75 degrees on a consistent basis, place the plant pot on a seedling heat mat (from Amazon) to keep the roots warm,' Julie adds.

3. Chili Peppers

If you're looking for vegetables you can grow indoors, then turn to chili peppers. When grown as edible indoor plants, they offer pops of color among green foliage.

There are actually ornamental peppers, which are primarily grown for their aesthetic value, and not taste. Or, you can choose from varieties suited to an indoor environment, like some jalapenos (seeds from Burpee) or habanero peppers (seeds from Burpee), and other chili varieties for containers.

Something to note is that it isn't the easiest to grow chili peppers indoors, as it is with other edible plants, which is why Julie advises: 'If your home is not 75 degrees or warmer, it’s necessary to place the plant pot on a seedling heating mat, which will keep the soil warm.'

Likewise, Julie notes you should 'avoid overwatering'. Water when the top inch to two inches has dried or a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) indicates nearly dry.

4. Basil

Basil makes one of the best edible indoor plants not only for its flavor, but also its bushy nature that fills spots on windowsills.

It's one of the easiest herbs to grow, so is definitely a great choice for a beginner indoor gardener. You can grow basil quite quickly with these basil seeds from Amazon.

'Initially, basil needs a lot of water, so water it every five days in spring, every two or three days in summer, and once a week in fall,' advises Plantum indoor plant expert Marina Prokaten. 'You'll need to adjust the watering regime for winter, just watering roughly every 10 days.'

To make the most of basil as an edible indoor plant, take steps to get basil to grow bigger and last longer. This includes regularly harvesting basil leaves from the top of the plant, encouraging fuller growth.

Find a basil plant at Walmart.

5. Mustard Microgreens

You should consider adding microgreens to your roster of edible indoor plants because they provide an influx of green foliage and fast, delicious harvests.

Mustard microgreens are a good choice, especially if you want to engage children with gardening. You can plant mustard microgreen seeds (from Amazon) and harvest in just seven to 10 days.

They make for a great filler in an indoor herb planter, which can make an attractive indoor plant display on a coffee table or windowsill.

FAQs

Are There Any Edible Traditional Indoor plants?

There are not many classic houseplants, like tropical evergreens, that are edible. In fact, many are likely to be toxic and can cause you to become unwell if ingested. However, there are plenty of herbs, fruits, and vegetable plants that can be grown indoors as edible indoor plants for both ornamental and edible value.

These edible indoor plants bring beauty and taste to the home. If you want to take your indoor garden to the next level, try growing these plants in a vertical indoor garden set-up.

If you want to plant fruit trees to enjoy the joys of homegrown harvests, the fall is a perfect time to do so. The ground conditions are ideal, as the soil is still holding onto warmth from summer, the seasonal rains keep it moist, and the weather is well-suited. With that in mind, we highlight some of the best fruit trees to plant in fall.

Planting fruit trees at this time of year gives them time to get settled into their new home before the colds of winter arrive. Container-grown fruit trees can be planted year-round, and bare-root fruit trees start becoming available to purchase and plant from late fall. Both types can be planted in the coming weeks, as long as the soil isn't frozen or waterlogged.

This guide to the best fruit trees to plant in fall includes hardy trees that can overwinter in most climates without any worry. Tender or tropical fruit trees can only be planted in the fall in warmer climates. Unless you can give them warmth year-round, it is preferable to plant these trees after the last frosts in early spring.

Best Fruit Trees to Plant in the Fall

Ahead of planting your fruit trees, take some time to prepare the planting site so your new additions get off to the best start in life. This includes clearing weeds, digging the soil, and mixing organic matter, like compost or well-rotted manure, into the planting site.

However, do not add any products to fertilize fruit trees into the planting hole. This incentivizes the roots to stay inside the perimeter of the planting hole, rather than extend outwards into the soil to seek out nutrients.

Any of the fruit trees on this list will benefit from a planting hole the same depth as its root ball and three times its width. If you intend to grow fruit trees in pots, only plant them in the fall if you can give them a protected position for winter, as the roots are more susceptible to cold in containers.

1. Apples

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 3-8
• Size: 8-25 feet
• Position: Full sun
• Harvest: Late summer-fall

One of the most popular fruit trees to grow, there are thousands of varieties of apples to choose from. These vary in terms of fruit color, shape, and flavor, come in dessert and culinary types, and can grow on trees ranging from dwarf to standard heights.

The apple trees you purchase will be grafted onto rootstocks, which can affect their size, use, and taste. Smaller dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are ideal if you want to grow an apple tree in a backyard, and such types are quicker to fruit than standard trees.

Pick a variety suited to your climate, as some varieties are more suited to colder zones and need set 'chill hours' to fruit well, and plant apple trees into a fertile, well-draining soil type and sheltered position.

2. Apricot

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 5-8
• Size: 10-16 feet
• Position: Full sun, sheltered
• Harvest: Midsummer

Apricots are wonderful fruit trees, with beautiful spring blooms and aromatic fruits that are idyllic to enjoy eaten fresh from the tree.

They may give the impression of being warmth-loving fruit trees (which they are), but apricot trees are tolerant of cold and are hardy down to US hardiness zone 5. In colder climates, they do make great fruit trees for greenhouses or to train on a warm, sunny wall.

Apricot trees tend to be grafted onto rootstocks to control their size, and there are varieties suitable for smaller backyards. Most varieties are also self-pollinating, so it is possible to get an apricot to fruit with just one tree, but it will be boosted by a second in the vicinity.

An ideal spot to grow an apricot tree gets at least six hours of daily sunlight and has fertile, well-draining soil. Avoid planting them in frost pockets, as their delicate spring blooms can be killed, or wet sites, as apricots don't like sitting in sodden soil.

Another important aspect to get right is pruning. You prune an apricot tree in spring or summer, as winter trimming leaves it susceptible to silver leaf and canker.

3. Cherry

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 4-9
• Size: 5-13 feet
• Position: Full sun
• Harvest: Midsummer

Cherry trees are great additions to any garden. They rank among the best trees for spring blossom, produce attractive fruit, and foliage turns fiery shades in the fall. Different varieties of cherries grow sweet fruits for eating or sour ones that are cooked in jams or pies.

There are many varieties of sweet and sour cherries, with lots of them self-fertile and suitable for smaller spaces. However, older non-self-fertile varieties need a cherry nearby that flowers at the same time to produce fruit. Cherries are grafted onto rootstocks, so this means you can plant a cherry tree even in smaller gardens.

Cherry trees can be grown as free-standing trees or trained against a fence or wall. What is key is not putting them in frost pockets, which will kill the spring blooms, and giving them good drainage. The trees will benefit from annual mulching, and you should prune cherry trees after harvesting.

4. Peach

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 4-9
• Size: 6-20 feet
• Position: Full sun
• Harvest: Midsummer

Peach trees evoke images of Mediterranean climates, so it should be no shock that these fruit trees thrive in warm, sunny gardens. It may be more surprising to hear they can be happy in cooler climates; they can still prosper in a bright corner as a freestanding tree or be trained as a fan against a warm wall.

Different varieties of trees produce rounded or flat peaches in shades of red, orange, or yellow. All peaches are self-fertile (which helps you have a peach tree that fruits) and tend to be grafted onto St Julien or VVA1 rootstock to keep them to a more compact size.

Plant a peach tree in a sunny spot, or against a south-facing wall or fence, into fertile, well-drained soil. Frosts are a problem for peaches, so they benefit from being covered in late winter unless they are planted in a protected spot.

This cover not only protects the early blossom from frosts, but also the leaves from peach leaf curl (though you can get resistant varieties to combat leaf curl). Just like apricots, you should prune peach trees in spring or summer to protect against silver leaf.

5. Pear

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 3-10
• Size: 13-25 feet
• Position: Full sun
• Harvest: Late summer

Pear trees can give you harvests of succulent fruits for decades. Many types of pear trees are grafted onto rootstocks to keep them more compact for growing in backyards, and while there are self-fertile varieties, all pear trees will fruit better with a nearby partner.

You can grow pears in different colors, sizes, and flavors, but one aspect that separates these trees from many other fruits is that you harvest pears early and bring them indoors to ripen, rather than leave them to ripen on the tree.

If you want to grow a pear tree, plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot where it can get 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily. The fruit trees grow best in well-drained, loamy soil, and not in frost pockets or soil that waterlogs.

Pears are low-maintenance. They are relatively drought-tolerant fruit trees, but will benefit from watering during dry spells while the fruit is developing, and you prune pear trees annually in late winter or early spring.

6. Plum

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 4-8
• Size: 8-16 feet
• Position: Full sun
• Harvest: Midsummer to mid-fall

Plum trees come in various colors, sizes, and flavors, and different varieties are dessert, culinary, or dual-purpose.

There are many types of plum trees, which also include damson trees, and some varieties can handle cold down to US hardiness zone 4. If you do live in a colder climate, ensure any particular variety is suited or opt for late-flowering varieties to protect delicate blossoms.

Plants vary in size depending on the rootstock, from dwarf varieties to grow in trained forms to larger trees that make impressive free-standing specimens. Some plums are self-fertile, but not all, so check whether you need another.

You want to plant plum trees in a sunny spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight a day. They like fertile, well-draining soil that stays consistently moist, as a crop can be affected if the soil dries out while the fruit forms.

Watering, feeding, and pruning are all important if you want to get a plum tree to fruit strongly and consistently. Prune plum trees in their active growing season, from April to August, rather than during dormancy, and thin fruit in early summer to avoid branches snapping under the weight of lots of plums.

7. Quince

• Hardiness: US Hardiness Zones 5-9
• Size: 13-20 feet
• Position: Sunny
• Harvest: Midsummer

Quince trees may not be the first fruit you imagine growing at home, and the fruits are not often seen for sale in grocery stores, but those large, fragrant fruits grow on low-maintenance, attractive trees that make a unique addition to any landscape.

They were once popular fruit trees; however, the popularity of quince fell dramatically. There is now a renewed interest in these intriguing, historic fruits, and, while still nowhere close to the popularity of other fruits, quinces are making a quiet comeback.

Different quince trees produce rounder, apple-shaped, or elongated pear-shaped fruits, which follow pretty pale-pink aromatic flowers in spring. These fruits take a long time to ripen, and are picked unripe before being left to ripen and sweeten. It is worth the wait, as quinces can be used to make jams, jellies, pies, and other desserts.

Quince trees prefer a warm and sheltered spot; the more sun the better if you want to get a quince tree to fruit prolifically.

As well as highlighting the best fruit trees to plant in fall, it must also be said that this season is also a fantastic time to add soft fruit to your garden. Whether you want to plant raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, currant bushes, or more, taking advantage of the warm, moist soils in fall helps get these off to a great start. Many fruit bushes are available either as container-grown plants or bare-root plants from late fall onwards, so now is a good time to plant them, and you can have harvests for many years.

It's officially the busiest harvesting season and there are plenty of homegrown goods to collect from your fruit and vegetable patch this month. It's the perfect opportunity to gather some ingredients for cozy fall meals, all of which will taste a hundred times better than store-bought goods.

These crops to harvest in October should be at the top of your fall gardening checklist, as you don't want to leave it too long. They could become overripe, rot, and won't taste as pleasant otherwise. At the same time, harvesting too soon can also affect the flavor. But, October is the sweet spot for many popular crops, including plenty of root vegetables, leafy greens, and even some fruit.

Here, we talk through seven of the crops to harvest in October from your vegetable garden and kitchen garden, plus tips on how to harvest them correctly.

7 crops to harvest in October

As well these crops to harvest in October, there are also plenty of vegetables to plant in October for harvests in winter and spring.

Make sure to have essential gardening tools to hand for both harvesting and sowing, including this garden knife from Amazon.

1. Kale

Kale is a fast-growing vegetable you can plant in late summer and harvest by October.

'Kale is a super-nutritious crop to harvest this month as a cut-and-come-again crop. It is a hugely under-valued superfood that can be used in many different ways in the kitchen, plus you can keep harvesting it,' says Drew Swainston, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor.

It doesn't matter what variety you choose when growing kale, Drew notes the technique to harvest kale is the same across the board:

'Whether you are growing curly kale, red Russian kale, or Tuscan kale (also known as Cavolo nero), carefully remove the largest, outer leaves, which allows the smaller ones to keep developing for future pickings,' Drew describes.

'Only harvest a few leaves from each plant, and don’t take any from the top rosette, and you can get many pickings from your kale plants throughout the fall and winter,' he adds.

Use gardening scissors (from Amazon) to make clean cuts at the base of kale leaves.

2. Squash

Squash, gourds, and pumpkins are perhaps the image you have in your mind when you think of the fall vegetable garden. October is the prime time for harvesting any squash you have grown.

Whether you grow squash vertically, grow squash in containers, or grown squash in your vegetable patch, you should look for a few key signs they are ready to harvest.

Winter squashes (including pumpkins, butternut squash, and delicata squash) should be hard, the stem should be brown and dry, and your fingernail should not be able to easily pierce the rind. Another key indicator is the vine turning brown and crispy, as it dies back and indicates the fruit is mature.

You will need a sharp pair of pruning shears (like these from Amazon) or garden knife to make a clean cut on the vine. Aim to leave two-to-four inches of the stem attached to the crops.

3. Lettuce

There are lots of types of lettuce that can be harvested in October that have been sown in summer. In fact, you can grow lettuce throughout the year, with successional planting making it possible to harvest in every season.

To harvest lettuce, you can choose to take the whole crop or just individual leaves.

For the latter, remove the largest leaves from the outside of the plant. This will elongate the harvesting period through October as the crown remains intact and will continue growing new leaves.

To harvest the whole head of lettuce, use sharp essential pruning tools to cut it off the stem.

4. Parsnips

If you've grown parsnips this year, October is the time to check in for harvesting. These root vegetables can take up to four months to mature, so it's a rewarding job to finally pull them up in fall.

'The first parsnips from your spring sowings are ready to harvest in the fall, and in colder climates, they will taste all the sweeter when touched by the first frosts this month,' Drew advises.

'The frosts convert starches in the roots into sugars, which gives the crop a sweeter flavor. When the temperatures drop and the foliage dies back, it is time to begin harvesting,' he explains.

A hand garden fork (like this from Amazon) will help you with harvesting parsnips seamlessly.

'Place the fork deep into the soil near the parsnip. Loosen the soil around the root and then lever the parsnip out of the soil,' Drew describes. 'Try not to just pull hard on the parsnip, as you risk snapping the root in the ground.

'You don’t need to rush harvesting parsnips, as they are very hardy vegetables that can be left in the ground into winter,' he adds.

5. Quince

For a fruit that's ready to pick in October, turn your attention to your quince trees. This yellow citrusy fruit should have a golden appearance with a downy coating by fall.

You can grow quince trees across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9, where they start to set fruit over summer.

You can also tell your quince is ready to harvest by smelling it. By this point, it should be highly aromatic and easily twist off the tree.

Aim to pick quince before the first frost, though it's best to leave them on the tree for as long as possible for the best taste.

If you struggle to get your quince tree to fruit, consider making some adjustments. For example, your tree may need more sunlight exposure or a better watering regime.

Using this beautiful harvesting trug can make it a less strenuous task to collect quinces, which can be tricky to carry in large volumes.

6. Tomatoes

You may be surprised to find tomatoes on this list, but October is the last chance to harvest tomatoes that are still ripening on the vine. This is because frost will damage the fruit, leaving it mushy and flavorless.

So, check in with your tomato plants this month. Red tomatoes should easily come off the vine with some gently twisting. As for any green tomatoes, it's best to cut them from the main stem (using these pruning snips from Amazon).

You can then begin the process of ripening green tomatoes indoors. There are a few ways to do this, but one of the best tricks is using a brown paper bag (like these from Walmart) and placing green tomatoes in it with a ripe banana to ripen them.

The ethylene gas produced by ripe bananas will also help ripen green tomatoes.

7. Pears

Another fruit tree that will be ready for plucking from in October: pear trees. It makes for a sweet ingredient in warming desserts during the colder months.

When growing a pear tree, you'll know the fruit is ready for picking when it feels firm and easily twists off the tree.

Pears continue to ripen off the tree, much like bananas. That's why it's best to harvest pears while they still feel firm. You can leave them on the tree up until frost if needed, until they reach mature size.

You can then place your pears somewhere dry and at room temperature, like in a fruit bowl. They'll ripen over several days before being ready to eat.

FAQs

How do you store harvested parsnips?

To store harvested parsnips to keep them fresh for longer, there are a few things you can do. This includes brushing away soil without washing them, trimming their leafy tops, and packing them into damp sand, peat moss, or sawdust in wooden boxes. The medium should be kept moist, but not wet, and the crops should be layered so they're not touching. This can give your parsnips a shelf life up to six months.

Alongside harvesting, there are other important garden tasks to take on this month. For example, there are bulbs to plant in October and perennials to divide in October.

Shop harvesting essentials:

Raspberries are easy-to-grow fruits adored for their sharp-sweet berries. For the best harvests year after year, they want some TLC ahead of winter to keep them healthy and productive for the next season.

Different varieties of raspberries produce fruits with varying colors, shapes, and tastes. The two main types are summer-fruiting raspberries and fall-bearing ones, with the former fruiting on old canes and the latter on the current season’s growth.

When you grow raspberries, picking the right varieties and caring for them properly means that any type can provide rich pickings for many years. Proper care includes knowing how to winterize raspberries to survive the coldest season and come back strong in spring, providing a great harvest that summer or fall.

How to winterize raspberries in the fall

Raspberries are hardy fruits that can be grown down to US hardiness zones 3 or 4, but the hardiness will depend on the variety.

Picking the best variety for your climate and hardiness zone ensures you'll get raspberries that fruit successfully. In colder climates, less hardy varieties will not thrive, and the shorter growing seasons may not be as suitable for fall-fruiting types. It is also key to choose the right variety if you want to grow raspberries in pots.

When it comes to how to winterize raspberries, the following five steps are crucially important:

1. Weed plants thoroughly

Weeds will compete with your raspberry plants for the water and nutrients in the soil, so you should get rid of them.

The fall is a great time to clear out any weeds that are growing around the base of your raspberry canes, as these unwanted plants are going to compete with the raspberries and rob them of essential plant nutrients. If weeds are left to their own devices, it will impact your yield.

Remove any common weeds from around your raspberries, being careful to remove the entire root, especially when dealing with perennial weeds (otherwise they'll shoot again from the remaining underground roots).

The best weeder types for perennial weeds are a garden fork or a weeding tool like this at Amazon, which has an angled head to lever even deep-rooted weeds like dandelions out of the soil.

2. Water plants until the first frost

Raspberry plants require regular watering throughout the year, which extends beyond the fruiting period.

While the window from spring until harvesting is a prime time to keep plants well-hydrated, it is recommended to continue monitoring and watering raspberries up until the first frost arrives in the fall.

When and how much you water raspberries ahead of winter arriving will depend on your climate. In many zones and locations, there is usually sufficient natural rainfall to provide raspberries with the inch of water a week the canes need to thrive at this time of year.

However, during dry spells, keep the soil moist, as raspberries have shallow rooting systems that can dry out quickly during warmer periods. You can check the soil moisture levels an inch or two under the surface with your fingers, or by using a soil moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter at Amazon).

Water raspberries through fall and up until the frosts, but then stop. Continuing to water into winter is a watering mistake that leaves plants at risk of rotting.

3. Mulch plants

Mulching raspberry plants for winter is important, as it offers multiple benefits. Adding a layer of organic material around canes ahead of winter helps to suppress weeds, retain moisture in the soil, and protect the roots from cold weather.

Choose an organic type of mulch, like compost, straw, shredded leaves, wood chips, or bark, and spread it two to three inches deep. A perfect time to add mulch is after weeding and watering the plants, and before the first frost of the year.

Use a garden shovel (like this heavy-duty shovel at Amazon) to spread the mulch, but leave at least an inch gap around the base of the stems. Mounding the mulch against the stems puts the plant at risk of rot or succumbing to disease.

4. Prune raspberries at the right time

Before winter, it may be time to cut plants back if you haven't already – but not all, as knowing when to prune raspberries depends on the type. As mentioned earlier, varying types bloom on different wood, and that impacts their pruning window.

Summer-fruiting raspberries are pruned after fruiting, so if you have not pruned them yet, they need to be done as part of your winterizing. As for how to prune these raspberries, they bloom on old wood, so remove this year's fruiting stems and leave the new ones that developed this year.

Gently tie each of the stems to carry next year's fruit to your trellis to prevent them from getting damaged by winter winds. Fall is also an ideal time to remove any weaker or damaged wood to stop the plants from getting too congested.

If you have fall-fruiting raspberries, hold off on pruning them back until late winter.

5. Protect plants from deer and rabbits

Raspberries are susceptible to damage from hungry pests during winter, as deer and rabbits are known to feed on raspberry plants during the colder months.

A fence is a big, and potentially necessary, commitment to protecting your raspberries. Unfortunately, it may need to be larger than you first expect.

The fence needs to be 8-10 feet high to keep deer away from plants and 20 inches tall and 12-20 inches deep (with a right-angle section underground) to stop rabbits, who can burrow underneath and access your plot.

There are natural pest control methods you can consider, such as planting deer-resistant plants or rabbit-repellent plants nearby to repel the animals.

Alternatively, motion-activated lights or ultrasonic animal repellents can prevent deer or rabbits from troubling your raspberries.

FAQs

Do raspberries need to be covered for frost?

Raspberry plants can survive frosts, and any berries left on the plants can tolerate light frosts. However, the flowers are delicate and can be damaged by unexpected late frosts. A late cold snap, especially following an early warm spell, will impact your harvest. In this scenario, it is beneficial to cover raspberries ahead of a frost. You can protect plants from frost with horticultural fleece, old bedsheets, or blankets.

Fall is an ideal time to plant raspberries. You can get bare-root raspberry plants to add to your plot in fall or late winter, providing the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Raspberry plants are tolerant of most soil types, but will prefer a sunny and sheltered planting spot in a fertile, well-draining soil.

If your existing raspberry plants have spread, suckers can be carefully dug up and replanted elsewhere to grow into new patches. If you do want to lift and transplant raspberries, an ideal time to do the task is during dormancy from November to March.

Knowing how to pick apples is key to harvesting quality fruit and avoiding causing any damage to them or the tree. Luckily, there is a simple technique you can use to pick apples impeccably every time.

I have picked lots of apples in my time. Every garden I worked in as a professional horticulturalist featured large numbers of apple trees. One garden had over 140 trees and 47 varieties of apples in one large orchard, while another had over a hundred espalier apple trees growing on arches and walls. In both cases, it meant a lot of time spent picking apples.

As well as the look and taste of the apple, how the fruit detaches from the tree is a tell-tale sign of when to pick apples. Once you discover the best technique, you can use it to pick apples low down or high up in a tree. This guide on how to pick apples teaches you the perfect method and reveals the tools you can use to harvest apples from the top of a tree.

How to pick apples from a tree

Timing is key, so the first key step is to pick apples at the right time. This can vary depending on the type of apple tree, your climate, and also any particular apple's location on the tree.

A ripe apple should be fully developed, whether green, red, or yellow, and feel firm. And, if you do a quick taste test on an apple or two, it should be sweet and juicy.

A good clue to follow is the sign of windfall apples around a tree. Once the tree starts dropping these naturally, it is time to start picking. These apples are great for making juice, but not for storing, as they often bruise when falling from the tree.

If your apples tick all the right boxes and are ripe to pick, there are three simple steps to follow for picking apples by hand. Follow those three steps, and you can enjoy a fantastic apple harvest.

1. Grab an apple in your palm – hold it, but don't excessively grip with your fingers, as this pressure can bruise the fruit.
2. Give it a slight twist and an upward lift – A ripe apple will come away in your hand using this simple motion, with the stalk intact. If you need to force it, the apple isn't ready. Don't excessively pull, as this risks damaging the fruit and the tree. You can even tear off the spurs that will carry next year's fruit.
3. Gently place into a basket or bucket – Be careful with the apple and don't drop it from a height, as you will bruise the fruit.

It may take more than one visit to pick all the apples of a tree, and that is because not all the fruits will ripen at the same time. When they ripen depends on the amount of light they get. Start picking apples at the bottom or edges of the tree, and do a few harvests to get the fruit at the best time.

There are a couple of harvesting mistakes to avoid. Refrain from picking diseased fruits, as any issue can spread through the crop when you store apples, and don't pick wet fruit that can rot quickly in storage.

Finally, keep a close eye out for wasps that feed on apples. They can hide in holes in fruits and may sting if they are disturbed.

If you are looking for an ideal container to place your apples in, this Garden Hod, available at Burpee, fits the bill perfectly. It is a durable basket made of wire and wood, suitable for gathering fruits.

How to pick apples from the top of a tree

Apple trees can get tall, so they can pose a challenge to get the fruit from high up. Thankfully, there are garden tools you can use to pick apples from up high so you waste as little fruit as possible.

You can use a ladder to pick higher apples from the tree. A tripod ladder (such as this 10ft tripod step ladder at Walmart) is best, as it is very stable and allows you to get close to the tree.

But take care when using any ladders on uneven surfaces. Safety is paramount, so you never want to over-stretch when picking apples up high from a ladder.

For further reach, a long-handled apple-picking tool can be used. These tools have an extendable pole with a basket on top. The basket features a wire cage to support and lift the apple, and a protective foam pad at the bottom of the cage to avoid bruising the fruit.

You can get telescopic apple pickers that reach up to 20 feet, and they allow you to carefully pick apples using the same upward motion as if you were harvesting by hand.

Shop types of apple picking tools

FAQs

How long can you leave apples on the tree?

Depending on the variety of apples, you can leave the fruits on a tree for a few weeks. Typically, late-season apples can be left on the tree the longest, while early varieties are best picked quickly once ripe. The risk of leaving apples on the tree for too long is that they over-ripen and turn soft or mushy. Also, ripe apples left on the tree become a target for wasps and birds.

Should I leave fallen apples on the ground?

There are potential problems with leaving fallen fruit on the ground. Primarily, the fruit becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi, such as canker or brown rot, and these spores can overwinter to infect the tree. Leaving fallen apples on the ground also attracts many pests and can damage lawns, as it blocks light and potentially spreads fungi.

To help get the best harvest of apples to pick, there are a couple of key maintenance tasks to remember.

Firstly, make sure to fertilize apple trees in spring and summer, using a product like this organic fruit tree fertilizer, available at Walmart.

Also, pruning apple trees during dormancy keeps trees healthy and productive, and also controls the size to make harvesting easier.

Apple picking is a hugely popular pastime globally, but it is a task that needs to be done at the perfect time. You want to make sure the apples you are harvesting are firm, juicy, and delicious, not mealy, mushy, or soft. So, how do you know when apples are ready to pick?

During my years as a professional gardener, I helped maintain and pick many fruit trees, including an orchard with around a hundred apple trees. These apples were harvested, stored, and used in the kitchens or sold to visitors. The apples needed to be picked at the ideal time, not only for the best taste but also so they could be stored for the longest possible period.

The secret to harvesting apples comes down to three distinctive factors: their appearance, taste, and feel. A ripe apple should reach its full color, be sweet and juicy, and detach easily from the tree. Here, I share insights from my own experience growing apples. Also, I talked to fruit experts who shared their tips for knowing when to pick apples at their best.

When to harvest apples – an expert guide

A lot of care and attention goes into growing fruit trees. For the best harvests, you will need to fertilize apple trees and prune apple trees annually, but the reward for that effort is the tasty homegrown fruits.

You can get great pickings from free-standing fruit trees, trained espalier apple trees to save space, or even fruit trees in pots in small spaces. But to know when to pick apples at their absolute best, it comes down to the variety and a few tell-tale signs to look out for.

When to pick apples – the apple harvest season

Apples ripen at different times, but the overall harvesting season runs from mid-August through November. The first step to understanding when to harvest apples is to know the varieties growing in your garden, and where they fit in that harvest season.

Whether you have an orchard or a single apple tree growing in a pot, the variety you have determines when they are likely to be ready to pick. Early-season varieties, such as Lodi, Carolina Red June, and Discovery, ripen in early August and are the first to be ready each season.

The mid-season varieties, such as Gala, Honeycrisp, and Red Baron, then follow and are harvested from late August to September. Finally, it is time for the late-season varieties like the ever-popular Golden Delicious and Granny Smith, which are picked in late September and October.

However, many factors contribute to when apples are ripe, making it impossible to rely on harvesting on an exact calendar date year on year. As Erin Mittelstaedt, CEO of The FruitGuys, explains: 'The timing of your favorite apple varieties will vary depending on where you live, the weather that year, and more.'

While it can differ location to location, it can also vary across a garden, and even on one tree. This is because all the fruits on one apple tree won't ripen at the same time; it is dependent on their location on the tree and the light levels they get.

Therefore, regular checking is required to harvest apples at their peak, and it can come down to knowing the simple traits to look for in a ripe apple.

How to know apples are ready to pick – the signs to look for

Understanding when to pick apples comes down to the look, taste, and feel of the fruit. These are the three primary tell-tale signs to focus on, but they do need to be judged in combination with each other, as sometimes only one of the factors is not enough to determine ripeness.

Color

First, examine how the color of the fruit has developed during the season, as this can be a key indicator of potential ripeness. Aris Curtis, kitchen garden manager at Enso Village in Healdsburg, California, advises: 'The skin when ripe should reach the full color of the type, depending on the variety.'

As apples can come in shades of red, green, or yellow, you need to know what the final color should be. However, color alone shouldn't be relied on. As Melissa Allen from Beechwood Orchards in Pennsylvania, a partner farm of The FruitGuys, warns that many apples need cool nights to 'color up'.

'If the temperature doesn't drop, then they can ripen completely without changing color,' she adds. 'At that point, you don't want to wait for the color to change because if you wait, the apples could get soft and overripe on the tree.'

Taste

If not just color, what else can you depend on? Well, a simple taste test can reveal the flavor and texture of the apple. This should reveal whether or not it is ripe and ready to be picked from the tree.

In terms of taste, Melissa adds: 'A ripe apple should be sweet and juicy, while an unripe one tastes dry and starchy.' At the other end of the scale, an over-ripe fruit will taste soft and mushy.

Remember to taste a few different apples from over the tree, which may be at different stages of ripening.

Feel

The other key indicator is the feel of the fruit and its connection to the tree. A ripe apple should feel firm, not soft, and detach easily from the tree. When ripe, apples come away from the tree in your hand with a slight twist. As Aris Curtis says: 'You shouldn't have to tug'. If it needs a hard pull, the fruit is not ripe.

A sign that the apples are going to detach simply can be when you see lots of windfall apples on the ground around trees. 'Healthy, ripe apples tend to drop from the tree naturally,' adds Aris. 'If you see this, it's time to start picking.'

FAQs

Can you leave apples on the tree too long?

Yes, apples can over-ripen when left on the tree. This affects their flavor and your ability to store apples. Fruits not picked from the tree can spoil, drop, and rot on the floor, attracting pests and becoming a breeding ground for disease. Picking over-ripe apples means fruits with a mushy texture and a shorter storage life.

What happens if you pick an apple too early?

Apples picked too early will have a sour taste, rather than their desirable sweetness, and the texture is likely to be hard rather than juicy.

Is it best to let apples ripen on the tree?

Apples should always be left to ripen on the tree, as they won't ripen after being picked. They may soften after being picked, but the flavor won't develop and get sweeter.

Shop tools for apple picking

If you are interested in an experiment, you can attempt to grow an apple tree from a seed. Cultivating a tree from a seed collected from one of your homegrown apples can make a fun gardening project for the family.

This can be done by extracting seeds from your apples and putting them in the refrigerator for a few weeks to mimic winter (which is known as cold stratification). The seeds can then be sown into pots filled with an organic potting mix, and the pots put in a warm and bright spot.

Hopefully, the seed will germinate and you'll see seedlings within a few weeks. Once these seedling reaches 12 inches, you can plant the apple tree outside.

When you try this experiment, don't hold high hopes for the fruit on any future tree to match the variety of apple you took the seed from. If you do have your heart set on a particular variety, purchase a grafted apple tree from a reputable nursery.

If you're lucky enough to live in a tropical clime, you might have experimented with growing fruit like bananas. These trees find it trickier to produce fruit in colder regions, so it's worth taking advantage if you do live somewhere sunny. Having said that, you might still struggle to get a banana tree to fruit if you aren't providing some optimal conditions.

Growing a banana tree offers a somewhat quick reward. 'Most plants take around 9–18 months to produce their first bunch, usually in the warmer months if you are outside the tropics areas,' says Lisa Tadewaldt, a tree care expert and owner at Urban Forest Pro. This short amount of time is aided by some specific conditions to support fruit development, even when it comes to growing cold hardy banana trees.

With sufficient warmth, light, water, and the help of some plant food, you can be well on your way to harvesting homegrown bananas. Here, Lisa shares her top three methods for trying to get a banana tree to fruit if yours is proving to be stubborn.

3 ways to get a banana tree to fruit

Banana trees typically grow best in US hardiness zones 9 to zone 11, though cold hardy varieties have a tolerance down to zone 5. It's best to ensure your banana tree variety is suited to your local climate and if it isn't, consider switching it out for a better suited option. You can explore the range of banana tree varieties available at Nature Hills.

1. Fertilize your banana tree regularly

If there's one thing to know about banana trees, it's that they're heavy feeders. Fertilizer can go a long way in helping them to fruit.

'They are really heavy feeders, so regular fertilizing, especially with extra potassium, makes a big difference,' Lisa says.

You should fertilize fruit trees like your banana tree monthly during spring and summer, when active fruit production is happening.

For a banana tree, look for fertilizers high in potassium to support fruit production. This is the 'K' in plant fertilizer numbers, which you can find on the label of fertilizer products.

Some good options include this banana tree fertilizer from Amazon and this fruit tree fertilizer from Amazon. Both of these feeds will give your banana tree a boost of essential plant nutrients to encourage fruiting.

2. Provide your banana tree with plenty of warmth

'Banana plants need steady warmth, typically above 75°F, lots of sun, and rich, well-drained soil to fruit,' Lisa says.

'Without at least 6–8 hours of bright light and consistent warmth, the plant will put its energy into growth rather than fruiting,' she adds.

Of course, the exact ideal temperature for your banana tree will depend on the variety you're growing. Cold-hardy varieties, for example, may even fruit in temperatures around 60°F, though the higher tends to be better.

If your banana tree is already in a permanent position, it can be tricky to increase warmth. Consider using things like this burlap from Amazon to provide insulation, or try mulching to trap warmth in.

If, however, you happen to be growing a more compact variety as one of the best trees to grow in pots, it's easy to relocate your banana tree somewhere warmer. Consider using a greenhouse or positioning it against a house wall which will give off heat.

To keep track of temperatures for your banana tree, use this soil thermometer from Amazon.

3. Keep your banana tree's soil evenly moist

Getting watering right is also fundamental in trying to get a banana tree to fruit, as too much water could hinder its health and ability to set fruit.

'Watering is super key,' Lisa says. 'Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy, since overwatering can damage roots and underwatering will stress the plant,' she explains.

Just like houseplant root rot, overwatering your fruit trees can rot roots and, as Lisa says, underwatering can cause stress that stunts growth. Prolonged exposure to soggy conditions or drought can even lead to the death of your banana tree.

If you live in a hotter clime with little rainfall, it's important to keep moisture levels up. Using a soil moisture meter (from Amazon), you can check for when your banana tree's soil has dried out in the top couple of inches. This is when you should give your tree a deep watering.

FAQs

Are banana trees self-pollinating?

Many banana trees actually don't rely on pollination to produce fruit. This is referred to as 'parthenocarpic,' and is typically in reference to commercial bananas, which are seedless. Wild banana varieties, on the other hand, do require pollination. They aren't typically self-pollinating, however, and rely on pollinators like fruit bats, birds, and insects.

Another trick for trying to get a banana tree to fruit is a bit of pruning:

'For best results, remove excess suckers (offshoots) so the main stem can focus on developing fruit,' Lisa says.

You should also take care to overwinter your banana tree to ensure it remains healthy and in fit condition for fruiting over the harshest months.

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Related to roses, crabapple trees have clusters of spring flowers made up of five, often slightly cupped petals which are followed by small apple-like fruits. Crabapples are distinguished from eating apples and cooking apples by having smaller fruits with an extremely sour taste.

Although most crabapple trees have unremarkable green foliage, some varieties have purple leaves in spring and summer, making a very effective backdrop for the flowers. While some develop colorful fall foliage in yellow, orange, gold, red or maroon tones.

The fall fruits come in yellow and orange, red and almost black and can provide a spectacle as colorful as the spring flowers. As one of the best fruit trees crabapples are important for insects and other wildlife, and here is everything you need to know to grow one.

Crabapple trees: key facts

The Brooklyn Botanic Garden has as a high opinion of crabapple trees. 'Among the showiest of spring bloomers,' they say, 'crabapples are also wonderful foliage plants in summer and fall, and they provide beautiful fruit displays late in the season.

'Furthermore, they come in a range of sizes and forms, many of which create interesting silhouettes in the winter landscape.'

• Plant type: Hardy tree
• Mature size: 5-40ft (1.5-12m)
• Soil type: Any fertile soil
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, slightly alkaline
• Flowering time of year: Spring
• Flower color: White, pink, wine red
• Time to plant: Fall, winter, early spring
• Hardiness zones: USDA zones 4-8
• Scientific name: Malus
• Common name: Crabapple

The different types of crabapple tree

• Lawn specimens: A crabapple tree makes a fine lawn specimen, most yards will have space for one that will bring three seasons of color and interest. ‘John Downie’ is probably the top pick. Or a weeping variety such as ‘Sun Rival’, adds an attractive summer shape and winter silhouette.
• Dwarf crabapples: If you're after a tree for small gardens, dwarf crabapples with naturally limited growth are now available and can be planted in patio borders. These are also ideal as a fruit tree to grow in pots, either on the deck or patio. Look for the narrowly upright ‘Scarlet Sentinel’ or the neat weeping ‘Red Jade’.
• Disease resistant: Some varieties of crabapple are susceptible to scab disease or mildew, in particular some older varieties are noted for disease ruining the display. Fortunately, there are disease-resistant options and these include the slow and upright Admiration (‘Adirondack’), ‘Professor Sprenger’ and Sugar Tyme (‘Sutyzam’).
• Wildlife choices: Some varieties produce far more fruits than others, and some are more colorful – but all are appreciated by birds. Look for ‘Golden Hornet’ and ‘Golden Raindrop’ (golden fruits), Admiration (‘Adirondack’) (orange-red) or ‘Scarlet Sentinel’ in particular.

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How to care for a crabapple tree

When it comes to planting a crabapple tree, choose a sunny site, or one with a little shade, and soil that is neither parched nor waterlogged. Crabapples do not require any special treatment. Plants in containers can be planted at any time from fall to spring, whenever the ground is not waterlogged or frozen.

Plant bare root trees and balled-and-burlapped trees in a narrower window, from late fall to early spring. Plant in containers at any time. Water well, and mulch. Be prepared to irrigate if necessary in the first year.

Support is important when it comes to crabapple tree care. A 4ft (1.2m) tree stake, such as this kit from Amazon, knocked in at an angle, with the tree tied to its stake about 2ft (60cm) above the ground is ideal. Check tree ties regularly and tighten if necessary.

Crabapples may need irrigation in their first year or two. A fall mulch of bark or other weed-free humus will help make them relatively drought tolerant trees with their roots staying moist. Mulching also prevents weed growth.

Common problems with crabapple trees and how to solve them

There are several diseases that can attack crabapple trees. Scab shows as black or brown blotches on leaves or fruit. Canker kills patches of bark and eventually encircles branches causing them to die. Mildew is a white dusty coating on foliage which eventually turns brown and crisp.

Control of scab and mildew is difficult, as spraying a whole tree is usually impractical and, there are few suitable treatments. Canker, a common apple tree disease, can only be controlled by cutting out damaged growth.

The best solution is prevention. Try to choose disease-resistant varieties such as Admiration (‘Adirondack’) and Prairifire crabapple, available at Fast Growing Trees, as these are much less susceptible to disease. Ensure that your crabapple tree is growing well and is not becoming overshadowed by nearby trees as they are not shade-tolerant trees.

The only pests that may be a problem are aphids (greenfly etc), and spraying a whole tree is not only impractical but a large number of beneficial insects may also be killed. A better solution is to attract birds and wildlife into your garden, as many birds feed their young with aphids collected from gardens.

How to use crabapple trees in your yard

There are many reasons to choose a crabapple tree as your new backyard tree, but these are three of the main benefits.

• Flowers: Sometimes seen as valuable flowering trees, better even than cherries, crabapple flowers come in pure white. White flowers opening from pink buds, pink, and shades of red. The flowers are almost always single, rarely double. Some are scented. Many varieties are so prolific that the clouds of flowers hide the foliage in spring.
• Foliage: Crabapple trees provide three kinds of foliage color. Some varieties, including ‘Profusion’ available at Fast Growing Trees, have young shoots that are purple maturing to green. ‘Royal Raindrops’ at Fast Growing Trees, has purple foliage that retains its color from spring until fall.
• Fruits: 'Persistent fruits such as some crabapples are an important food for wintering birds such as finches and sparrows,' say the New York Botanical Garden. The fruits of crab apple trees have three virtues. First, there’s color – from deep red, almost black, through brighter red and orange tones to yellow. The fruits of larger varieties make delicious jelly and the fruits of all varieties are popular with birds, through fall and sometimes well into winter.

Pruning crabapple trees

Crabapples rarely need trimming but a little light maintenance or shaping may be necessary. When it comes to knowing how to prune crabapples, cut out dead, diseased, or broken twigs and branches, and be sure also to cut out any suckers – these are strong growing shoots that sprout from the trunk or the roots.

If a branch is damaged or needs more serious pruning, cut it out. You may need a pruning saw if your pruners are not up to the job.

As with pruning fruit trees, timing is key to knowing when to prune crabapple trees. It's best to do it immediately after flowering. You will miss out on most of the fruits in the fall, but leave it any later and you will reduce the number of next year’s flowers and fruits.

FAQs

How tall do crabapple trees grow?

Most crabapples will grow to about 20-25ft (6-7.5m) in height, although many, including Coralburst (‘Coralcole’), will reach only 10-12ft (3-3.5m). Cinderella (‘Cinzam’), is even smaller, reaching about 7ft (2m) while the very dwarf ‘Tina’ is tiny at about 5ft (1.5m).

Some nurseries control the size at which their trees mature by grafting them on to roots that either restrict the growth of the tree and keep it dwarf, or allow it to grow taller and more vigorously. Specialist nurseries will provide advice on this.

Why is my crabapple tree turning yellow?

There are number of reasons why the leaves on your crabapple tree are turning yellow.

• Drought: The leaves of newly planted crabapples will turn yellow if the plant has not been watered enough. If there is no rain, water well every week and top with a mulch to help prevent drying out.
• Fall color: Some varieties of crabapple are supposed to turn yellow in fall, the fall color is part of their appeal. These include Centurion (‘Centzam’), ‘Donald Wyman’, ‘Professor Sprenger’ and ‘Red Sentinel’.
• Apple scab: The first sign of apple scab is black or dark brown blotches on the leaves. Later they often turn yellow before dropping off.

Will deer eat my crabapple tree?

The short answer is yes – although crabapples are not top of the list of the deer’s favorite foods, they aren't exactly deer resistant plants. The experts at New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, who have studied deer resistance of garden plants and asked other experts, have compiled a ratings system that divides plants into four categories.

From 'Rarely Damaged' to 'Frequently Severely Damaged', crabapples are rated in the third group as 'Occasionally Severely Damaged'.

So your crabapple tree will definitely need protection if you have deer in your yard. Deer will be unable to reach the higher parts of mature crabapples but will eat the lower branches. A fence is the best solution.

Most crabapples are not edible straight from the tree, but make wonderful jelly, perfect for making as you start to get your kitchen ready for Thanksgiving. Crabapple jelly is a real treat – great with pork, and with lamb, and also cheese. And you don’t need to fiddle around adding pectin, crabapples already have more than their fair share.

Choose to grow a variety with large and plentiful fruits such as ‘Golden Hornet’, ‘Harry Baker’, and Jelly King (‘Mattfru’).

This time of year ushers in a wonderful harvest of fruit; figs, pears, quince, persimmons, apples, damsons, and plums start to fall to the ground and await collection by us gardeners to bake and stew into cakes and pies, and jams.

For many, the fall gardening checklist is surprisingly time-consuming, with pruning, pond cleaning, and bulb planting to be done. It can be easy to forget to pick up the fruit that starts to drop, especially as it can't do much harm to leave it a day or two... surely?

Sadly, not. As fruit hits the ground and begins to rot, pests (including rats, hornets, and wasps) will begin to arrive, weeds can sprout readily, and lawns can be damaged. Here's why fallen fruit should be picked up before the rotting process begins, and why forgetting is a mishap worth avoiding.

1. Pick up fruit before weeds begin to germinate

One of the first problems caused by leaving fruits to rot that you will notice is the swift arrival of many types of invasive weeds.

As the fruit is left to rot, the soil is enriched with organic matter, which provides perfect growing conditions for weeds. Once weeds have established, it becomes an ongoing job to keep them at bay.

2. Bring your fruit inside to stop pests

The best thing you can do to keep rats away? Pick up rotting fruit as soon as possible. Leaving fruit to drop naturally and rot into the ground may seem harmless, and picking them up quickly may seem fussy, but the smell of rotting fruit lures in rats, mice, wasps, and hornets in droves.

Rats will feed on any fruit and vegetables growing in your garden, so be sure to keep on top of your harvesting schedule to avoid the common vegetable harvesting mistakes of leaving them out for too long.

3. Forgetting to pick up fruit leaves a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi

Although there is something rather lovely about the thought of decomposing fruit enriching the soil below, it is, in reality, far more of a hindrance than a help to the neighbouring plants and trees.

The rotting fruit serves as a breeding ground for bacteria and fungus, which often spread ferociously and rapidly, quickly infecting the fruit tree from which the fruit came. Once a fruit tree is diseased, it is extremely hard to treat and can often require removal.

4. Rotting fruit will cause issues for your lawn

It is perhaps surprising how quickly a lawn can become damaged by rotting fruit.

Signs of an unhealthy lawn include patchy growth, yellow grass, brown patches, an increase in weeds, moss, and fungi, and all of these issues can be brought on by decaying fruit that hasn't been picked up.

Not only does the fruit block out light and air by physically crushing the grass, but perhaps more alarmingly, spores from diseases can overwinter on fallen fruit, setting the scene for a plethora of lawn issues that are going to be more than a slight headache to take care of come spring when they spread rapidly.

Even leaving fallen fruit for one day can result in yellow grass, and after a few days, the grass below can die completely. So it is worth making fruit collection a daily task, not simply a weekly or fortnightly one.

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As you head out, basket in hand, to collect your fruit, you may think it's time to grab the pruners and begin to prune the fruit trees ready for winter.

All of the best fruit trees will need pruning to create their form and keep them healthy and productive. But in terms of when to prune fruit trees, different types need pruning at different times of the year. With this in mind, it's paramount that you check when is best to prune the fruit tree you have.

If you prune fruit trees too soon, such as in fall when the weather is still warm, then they can put out a spurt of new growth that won't have time to harden off. This new growth will be susceptible to damage from winter frosts.

Be meticulous when picking fallen fruit, but don't be overzealous when it comes to pruning, as you might be causing unnecessary damage to the tree.

I’ve grown and cared for olive trees in all kinds of places while working as a professional gardener. I once looked after two lovely old and gnarled specimens in a front garden in Islington, North London. Even in this challenging concrete environment, they thrived.

However, while they are tough and resilient trees, I have found that olives can benefit from an occasional feed, especially when container-grown. They won’t mind poor soil, but that doesn’t mean they thrive on total neglect, so applying the right fertilizer at the right time will pay dividends.

So, whether your olive tree is old and sculptural in a large pot by the back door, or young and finding its feet in the border, feeding is a good job to add to your to-do list. Here’s everything I know about how to fertilize olive trees to keep them healthy and looking good.

Is it necessary to fertilize olive trees?

Technically, no, many olive trees don’t need much fertilizing, especially when planted in the ground. In the Mediterranean, they can thrive in poor, stony and sandy soil, without much need for supplemental feed.

That said, if you’re growing olive trees in pots, a little feed can really help. In particular, young trees often benefit from a top-up while establishing, and any olive grown in a container will be entirely reliant on you for nutrients.

When to feed olive trees

Timing is key when it comes to fertilizing fruit trees. If you are landscaping with olive trees and growing them in the ground, I would recommend feeding just once, in early spring. March or April is fine, usually with a slow-release general fertilizer. That one hit is often enough to support steady growth through spring and summer.

Potted fruit trees, though, need a bit more from you. I start feeding container olives once the weather warms up, usually around May time, feeding every two to three weeks until late summer.

Feeding any later than this would be a fertilizing mistake. The last thing you want is encouraging soft, sappy growth that will be struck by the first early frost.

How to feed olive trees

For trees in the ground, I usually use a granular fertilizer for all-around plant health. Something like blood, fish and bone will do the job. Scatter a handful or two around the base in spring, covering with a thin layer of mulch.

Use something like this organic bone meal by Espoma, available via Walmart.

Potted olives are another story. I would suggest using either a feed that is intended for olive trees or an organic fruit tree fertilizer available from Walmart. But any balanced liquid feed you have in the garden shed will have a similar result.

If your tree’s looking worse for wear in the spring – lacking verdancy or showing stunted growth – it might benefit from an early-season boost with a seaweed-based tonic.

Try this organic seaweed feed, available now via Amazon. Follow the recommended instructions found on the packaging of the feed, typically applying once or twice per season. With any luck, the nitrogen boost will help with foliage growth.

FAQs

Can I use tomato feed for olive trees?

Yes, tomato feed is a good product to use when you want to fertilize olive trees, particularly as this will help with flower and fruit production. It can help to use this alongside your other all-around feed. Use something like this tomato fertilizer from Walmart, diluting it in a watering can, feeding once in May and then again in July. I would suggest diluting it even more so than is recommended on the packaging to avoid damaging these tough, resilient trees.

In addition, a light fall or winter mulching will also help to nourish your plants. I like using well-rotted bark. Just be sure to keep it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.

And, remember that while olive trees are drought-tolerant, it is a good idea to be deep-watering them in pots throughout the summer. If you tree suffers from heat stress and lack of water, no amount of feed will be able to save a dying olive.

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If you're anything like me, the first signs of summer wrapping up evoke a feeling of excitement for the incoming cozy season. As a keen gardener, though, I'm also eager to find out what kind of weather we can expect this winter and how to prepare my yard accordingly. That's when I stumbled across a fun piece of folklore to give me some answers: cutting open persimmon seeds for a winter weather prediction.

If you have planted persimmon seeds in your yard and have successfully grown persimmon fruit to harvest this fall, you're in luck. By collecting seeds from your persimmon, you can have a weather prediction, according to an old wives' tale. You simply have to cut open a seed and see what shape lies within. Here's the fun part: they're all cutlery shapes.

The below TikTok video from @nanatcraft shows a spoon in a persimmon seed, predicting snow. Meanwhile, a fork is thought to foreshadow a milder winter, and a knife predicts a harsh winter with cutting winds. Intrigued to find out more? Here's how you can take part in using persimmon seeds to predict winter weather and what the folklore says your findings reveal.

What are the persimmon seed weather predictions?

Before jumping in with how to use persimmon seeds to predict winter weather, you first need to know how to harvest persimmon seeds.

Of course, it makes sense this folklore requires you to use seeds from persimmons grown in your yard or local area, predicting the kind of weather that will land there this winter. So, you first need to get your persimmon tree to fruit to take part in this practice.

'You will need to collect ripened persimmons if you want to harvest healthy, viable seeds. You'll know when they are ready, as the fruit will turn deep orange, and some might even begin to drop from the tree,' explains Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor Thomas Rutter.

'Simply select one fruit, and, using a sharp knife (or your hands), remove the flesh to find the darkened seeds inside in the center of the fruit. To note, there can be half a dozen or more seeds to a fruit.'

You can then take a knife (like these kitchen knives from Walmart) and carefully cut along the seed ridge. It should then pop open to reveal the inside. Here's what each of the three shapes are thought to mean for your winter garden this year:

Spoon in persimmon seed

What does it mean to have a spoon in persimmon seeds? It indicates a very snowy winter.

It's thought to represent the need to shovel snow, with the spoon being reminiscent of a snow shovel.

If your persimmon seeds show a spoon symbol, you might want to prepare your yard to ensure your planting isn't wiped out by a snowstorm. This includes becoming familiar with whether you should remove snow from plants, knowing what to do with snow on grass, and making sure not to remove any from places you shouldn't clear snow, where it could damage garden structures.

You may also want to protect plants from snow with frost cloths (from Amazon).

Knife in persimmon seed

If you have a knife shape in your persimmon seeds, it's an indication of an extremely cold and frosty winter. The old wives' tale says some snow can be expected, although not as much snow as a spoon predicts.

If this is the case for you when using persimmon seeds to predict winter weather, take steps to overwinter your garden, protect plants from frost, and get together some essential tools, like this burlap from Amazon to wrap pots and even a mini greenhouse (from Amazon) to store tender plants in.

Don't forget to look after your persimmon tree during a frosty winter, too, as fruit trees also need protecting from frost.

Fork in persimmon seed

Lastly, a fork in persimmon seeds indicates a much milder winter. If this is your result from using persimmon seeds to predict winter weather, you should turn your attention to managing rainfall over frost and snow.

It can be wise to aerate your lawn and take measures to reduce surface water run-off if you're expecting heavy rain. Likewise, if your yard is prone to flooding, consider incorporating ideas to make your yard flood-resilient.

It's important not to make watering mistakes during a wetter fall and winter, too, to prevent oversaturating the soil and rotting plant roots. A soil moisture meter (from Amazon) can help you manage this.

FAQs

When is the best time to collect persimmon seeds?

The best time to collect persimmon seeds is during fall and early winter, when the fruit is fully ripe. Whether you're using persimmon seeds to predict winter weather or you want to save them for replanting, it's important to allow them to dry first. You can do this by removing the mucilage and leaving the seeds in a dry, sealed container. Place drying agents in the container (like these silica gel packets from Amazon) to help draw out moisture more quickly.

Using persimmon seeds to predict winter weather is fun folklore and many have success stories of the predictions coming true. Of course, it's important to note this isn't a reliable way to check your winter forecast, especially considering the shape inside persimmon seeds is scientifically explained by the structure of the cotyledon, which is the embryonic leaf within the seed.

To get a more accurate understanding of the winter weather you can predict, keep up to date with local weather forecasts. You may also wish to check out the Farmers' Almanac winter forecast 2025.

Having said that, there's no harm in taking part in this folklore practice to see what happens – it might even become a returning item on your winter gardening checklist.

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I’ve been tending fig trees for years as a gardener, but one that always comes to mind is a grand ‘Brown Turkey’ espaliered flat against a vast stone barn in South Wales. The garden sat at the bottom of a misty valley – hardly the Mediterranean climate you’d expect figs to crave – yet it thrived, thanks to the shelter and the heat radiating from that old wall.

Figs are famously tough, but toughness doesn’t mean they never need help. Like all fruit trees, they pour huge amounts of energy into blossom, foliage and ripening fruit, and sometimes the soil can’t keep up. Learning how to fertilize fig trees is, therefore, key, though it’s a matter of balance. Too much feed and you’ll be lost in a jungle of leaves with not a fig in sight, and too little and you’ll face bare stems year after year.

So, whether you’re caring for a large wall-trained specimen or a modest patio tree in a pot, the right feed at the right moment can make all the difference. Here’s everything I’ve learned about how to get a fig tree to fruit with the right fertilizer, after many seasons of trial, error, and the occasional bumper harvest.

Is it necessary to fertilize fig trees?

In their native Mediterranean range, fig trees grow in poor, stony soils. I have seen them thriving in seemingly infertile spots, still managing to produce fruit. It’s one of the reasons they’ve earned a reputation as some of the easiest fruit trees to grow.

So, technically, no, you don't always need to fertilize fig trees. If yours looks good and is fruiting well, chances are it is probably quite happy without any supplemental feed this year.

However, for those growing in pots, or for established trees that need a gentle nudge or look a little lacklustre, then the right feed at the right time can make the difference between a disappointing year and a rewarding harvest.

When to feed fig trees

In terms of when to fertilize fruit trees, I have found that less is usually more. For fig trees growing in the ground, a single spring feed is usually enough, just at the point that your tree is jumping into life as the new growth emerges. This one hit will usually carry it through the season.

Potted fruit trees, though, are another matter. In containers, roots can’t forage far, so they rely completely on you.

I would suggest feeding fig trees in pots every two to three weeks from late spring through to late summer, stopping once fruits begin to swell and ripen, usually August or September.

Do not be tempted to feed any later than this, which would be a fertilizing mistake. While you might think you are helping your tree by encouraging it to produce more growth, this will not harden before the cold weather arrives.

How to feed fig trees

For in-ground figs that you are feeding in spring, simply apply a scattering of blood, fish and bonemeal around the base of the tree. Use something like this organic bone meal by Espoma, available via Walmart.

One handful around the base worked lightly into the soil will do the job, and this top-up of phosphorus will support flower and fruit growth over the season ahead.

Container figs respond best to liquid feeds. I would suggest using something like this organic tomato fertilizer by Espoma, available via Amazon. Tomato feeds will have a higher potassium or potash amount (the third value in terms of plant fertilizer numbers).

Follow the recommended instructions found on the packaging of the feed, typically applying once every couple of weeks, and diluting it into a watering can.

Be sure to work slowly and methodically, soaking the soil and avoiding the foliage and the upper stems.

FAQs

Can I use seaweed feed for fig trees?

Yes, seaweed feed is a good product to have that I tend to keep in the shed. It won’t replace a high-potassium or phosphorus fertilizer for fruit production, but it’s brilliant as a supplement. I often use it early in the year, which will help with leafy growth, before switching to a tomato feed to guarantee plenty of delicious fruits later in the year.

Try this organic seaweed fertilizer by Blue Planet Nutrients, available now via Amazon.

While it will change depending on the variety you grow, you don't usually need to winterize fig trees unless you live in zone 7 or zone 6 and below.

However, a good precautionary step to take is mulching the base of your tree, which not only will protect the roots during long, cold months but can also improve the quality and structure of the soil.

Any organic bark or straw mulch will do, just be sure to apply a thick (two or more inches) layer in the fall, keeping a small distance away from the trunk, which can cause rotting.

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Having fruit trees in your yard is a year-round joy. But, some fruits never quite make it to our kitchens because pests get to them first. That's why I've found gardeners are turning to covering figs in tinfoil to protect them from birds and squirrels.

It's a simple hack for growing a fig tree, but one you wouldn't necessarily think to try. By putting a physical barrier in place, you can stop curious wildlife from stealing your harvest, without causing any harm to them. Not only this, but it's a trick that can aid getting a fig tree to fruit and ripen.

'It's a trick my neighbour used to do when I was a child,' says Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull. 'The foil not only help to deter birds and squirrels, who are put off by the shiny, reflective surface, it can also help to ripen figs in colder regions,' she adds. Here, Rachel explains how exactly covering figs in tinfoil works, as well as the pros and cons of doing so.

How to use tinfoil to protect figs

For this hack, you simply need one thing: tinfoil (from Walmart).

'My neighbor would individually wrap each fig fruit in tinfoil to protect his harvest. It might sound painstaking, but it can be really useful, especially if you have a smaller tree to protect,' Rachel describes.

You should cover the figs when they're large enough to be spotted by pests that can destroy plants and are ready to ripen. Signs your figs are at this stage include the fruit starting to change color and soften, when they're most susceptible to being eaten by birds and squirrels.

'There are two things I remember my neighbour telling me. First, double up your foil and then wrap it very securely around the fruit, as birds and squirrels are clever and persistent,' Rachel advises.

'Secondly, always poke a few very small holes through the foil sheet first, as this will help a little bit of airflow to get to the fruits and will stop them from rotting before they are ready to pick,' she adds.

You can poke holes in the foil using cocktail sticks, toothpicks (from Amazon), or even a fork. Failing to provide this access to air is a fig growing mistake that could leave you with mushy, rotten fruit.

At the same time as keeping squirrels away from fruit trees, covering figs in tinfoil will also help ripen the fruit. This is because it traps in heat, creating a greenhouse effect and encouraging figs to sweeten and soften more quickly – a particular benefit if you live in a cooler region where your figs are struggling to get enough warmth to ripen.

Disadvantages of this method

Of course, there are some downsides to covering figs in tinfoil that you should be aware of.

The first being it can be unsightly among your fruit trees to have lots of shiny balls of tinfoil. Although, this isn't necessarily an issue if you're prioritizing a bumper harvest over garden aesthetics.

Something else to be aware of is the tinfoil trapping in excess moisture. This can lead to rotting before the fruit is ready to be eaten, which is why Rachel emphasises poking holes in the foil for airflow.

This trick is also time-consuming, as it requires each and every fig to be covered. But, as Rachel notes, 'If you lose your figs every year to hungry wildlife, it might just be worth giving it a go.'

FAQs

Do you leave the tinfoil on until you harvest the figs?

If you are covering figs in tinfoil to protect them from pest damage, then yes, it's most effective to leave the tinfoil in place until the fruit is harvested. Doing so will ensure birds, squirrels, and other wildlife don't get to your figs before they are ripe and ready for eating.

This trick works for a range of other soft fruits, too. For example, you can use tinfoil to protect pear trees and plum trees.

Once your figs have been safely harvested, don't forget to also winterize your fig tree to keep it healthy over the colder months and ready to start again next year.

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Olive trees, to me, are an intrinsic part of the character, look and feel of the undulating landscape of the Mediterranean. Alongside grapevines, they’re everywhere in Italy, Spain, France, and Portugal, lining fields in their neat, silvery rows or standing in pots in sleepy town squares. When I worked as a gardener in Italy a few years back, I remember thinking how omnipresent these ancient trees were.

If you are restricted by space, growing olive trees in containers is a clever solution. The pot naturally restricts their size, keeping them compact and manageable, while still offering that evergreen coverage. I’ve seen them used beautifully on scorching balconies for privacy, or on sun-baked terraces where their silvery foliage remains year-round.

So, if you’re looking for easy, low-fuss fruiting trees for containers, learning how to grow olive trees in pots is a good idea. Here's everything I know about growing these tough and resilient trees after several years working as a professional gardener.

How to grow olive trees in pots

There are so many attractive (and delicious) fruit trees to grow in pots, although you would be hard pushed to find a species that is quite so forgiving as the humble olive.

While it might not be your first thought when seeking plants for containers, these tough, reliable small trees that thrive on neglect will happily grow in pots in sunny and dry regions, so long as a few simple rules are abided by.

Live olive tree starter plants can be ordered right now via Amazon.

Growing advice for olive trees in pots

When I worked in Tuscany, we grew several olive trees in large, aged terracotta pots alongside impressive lemon trees. Doing this anywhere, I think, can create that Mediterranean look and feel.

In general, I have found olives to be some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in pots, although you do need to get the basics right, namely good drainage and plenty of sunshine.

Most olive trees, or Olea europaea, are hardy from zone 6 to zone 10, although a few are a little more tolerant of cold weather than others.

For example, I have found the Olea Europaea 'Arbequina' variety, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery, to be relatively tough during winter, although, as with most olives, some leaves may drop if there is an extended snowy spell.

Choose a decent-sized container to start with – I’d say at least 14 or so inches wide and deep.

Something like this aged terracotta Keilson container with an attractive scalloped rim, available via Wayfair, will look beautiful, especially after a few years, when slightly dimmed by weather and wear.

Make sure the pot has good drainage hole/s, and use a gritty, free-draining mix – something like a blend of potting compost with horticultural grit or sand works well.

Position your pot in a sunny spot, and water well. Don't expect masses of growth in that first season, but once established, your olive tree will begin to bush out.

Ongoing care for olive trees in pots

While these plants with silver foliage are known to be drought-tolerant, deep watering is important. Believe me, skipping your early morning or late evening watering schedule during a hot week can spell disaster for your plants.

In Tuscany, even with the unremitting Italian summer heat, they were fine so long as we gave them consistent, deep drinks through July, August and September (which can be as much as every day when the mercury soars).

Feeding is the other essential. I find that a suitable olive fertilizer (or a liquid citrus feed) once a month through the growing season will do the job. You shouldn't really have any need to feed more than this.

Olive tree fertilizer is available to order from Amazon.

In terms of how to prune olive trees, I would suggest doing so in the springtime, usually around April or early May.

Grab a pair of clean, sharp snips, and simply thin the canopy to let a little more light and air in, and keep your tree in the desired shape (which can be multi-stem, standard, or even weeping).

FAQs

Do I need to winterize my olive tree pot?

Olive trees can usually withstand frost and a little snow during winter. In Tuscany, for example, they managed just fine through long, cold spells. However, in pots, it is a good idea to move the containers closer to your home or group them together, which can provide a micro-climate and provide a little more shelter. If you reside in a northern region (like zone 4 or 5), I would also suggest that you cover your tree with burlap or a frost sheet to protect your olive tree in winter.

Finally, in terms of repotting your olive tree, I recommend doing so every three years. Refreshing the compost and providing a small amount of extra room will revitalize your aging olive.

For more inspiration, see our guide to landscaping with olive trees, and make the most of these tough evergreens in your backyard this year.

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I have grown, maintained, and harvested blackcurrant, redcurrant, and whitecurrant bushes in walled kitchen gardens and on my home plots for many years. I always found them simple to grow, easy to prune, and reliable croppers. To help you learn how to grow currants, I reveal tips I’ve learnt over the years and also spoke to a fruit expert about these fantastic soft fruit bushes.

Banned in the United States for many years until recently, blackcurrants, redcurrants, and whitecurrants are soft fruit bushes that produce prolific harvests of small fruits packed with vitamin C and with a range of uses.

If you want sweet and tangy fruits for jams, jellies, desserts, syrups, sauces, or to enjoy straight from the bush, you can get that by learning how to grow currants and adding one or more of these reliable fruit bushes to your backyard ideas. So, let's deep dive into these highly recommended soft fruit bushes.

How to grow currants – in focus

If you haven’t seen a lot of currants growing in yards throughout your life, there is a reason for this. The plants are in the Ribes species and were banned in the US for many years due to their susceptibility to white pine blister rust.

This ban has now been lifted in most states, but it is recommended to check whether you are allowed to grow currants in your state before buying or planting any bushes to add to your yard.

Why grow currants?

Currants are easy-to-grow soft fruit bushes that come in black, red, and white varieties, each offering a unique flavor and culinary use. Blackcurrants are tangy and popular for jams and syrups, while redcurrants are best for jellies and desserts, and whitecurrants are the sweetest types, perfect for snacking and baking.

‘Currant bushes (Ribes species) are easy-to-grow, compact fruiting shrubs that produce large clusters of flavorful berries,’ says Katie Brines from Stark Bros. ‘These cold-hardy plants thrive in cooler climates and make an excellent addition to edible landscapes.’

Currants are attractive bushes with unique lobed leaves and stunning fruit. As well as looking great, some types are cold-hardy to US hardiness zones 2 or 3, making them ideal fruit bushes for growers in colder climates.

‘Once a staple in Northeastern U.S. gardens, currant bushes were prized for their high vitamin C content and antioxidants,’ adds Katie. ‘Most cultivated varieties originated in Europe, Asia, and North America, making them exceptionally cold-hardy.’

To pick a perfect currant variety for you, ensure it is suited to your US hardiness zone and ideal for what you want to do with the berries. Given such a range of currants, there are bushes suitable for most locations and desires.

Where to plant currant bushes

Currant bushes are available as budget-friendly bare-root plants during the dormant season, or you can get container-grown bushes from nurseries, garden centers, or online year-round.

The best time to plant currant bushes is in early spring or fall. For the best crop, get multiple plants. However, this is not essential, as Katie Brines reveals that bushes are self-pollinating. But, the expert does add: ‘Planting multiple varieties can increase yields and improve pollination, leading to larger, more abundant harvests.’

Plant currant bushes into a full sun position in the garden. They can grow in partial shade, but the fruiting will be affected. Where it is beneficial to grow currants in partial shade is in warmer US hardiness zones, as bushes will prefer a bit of afternoon shade during hot summers.

Currants prefer fertile, well-draining soil with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure incorporated ahead of time. The ideal soil pH for currants is slightly acidic; doing a soil test before planting can reveal the pH and nutrient levels.

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the plant’s root network and plant currant bushes at least an inch deeper than they were in the nursery pot to bury the root collar. Space bushes 4-6 feet apart for proper air circulation and healthy growth.

How to grow currants – care tips

• Watering - New currant bushes will require regular deep watering to get them established after planting. In future years, you want to keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, from spring until you harvest the fruits. This is especially important during extended dry periods as currant bushes are shallow-rooted plants. Mulching around bushes annually is beneficial to retain moisture in the soil, keep the soil temperature cool, and smother weeds that will compete with currants for water and nutrients.
• Feeding - Currant bushes do not require a lot of fertilizer to produce a strong crop. The best approach is to use a balanced, organic 10-10-10 fertilizer each spring, applied to the soil surface around the bush and watered in well. An example of such a feed is this all-purpose plant fertilizer at Walmart. This one application, along with mulching with organic matter in spring, is often enough to provide the required nutrients.
• Pruning - Annual pruning is a key maintenance task for keeping plants healthy and vigorous. Prune currant bushes in late winter and early spring, and start with all of them by removing dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches. Pruning blackcurrants requires just a third of the oldest canes to be removed each year. Pruning redcurrant or whitecurrant bushes involves removing canes older than three years old, and cutting back side shoots by a third in size.
• Harvesting - Protect the soft fruit from birds by covering the bushes with netting once the berries form. Start picking the ripe currents in early summer once they have developed their final color. Cut the entire bunch once all the fruits are ripe, before then removing the individual berries. This prevents making the harvesting mistake of damaging the delicate berries by attempting to remove them one at a time from the bush.
• Propagation - You can propagate new currant bushes by taking plant cuttings in winter of your favorite types. Take hardwood cuttings of the current season’s growth with clean and sharp pruning shears, and trim them to 8-10 inches in length by cutting below a bud at the bottom and above one at the top. Dip the cuttings in rooting hormone (such as this rooting hormone at Amazon) and place the cuttings into the ground or a pot filled with a quality potting mix.

Another great fruit bush ideal for colder climates is the honeyberry. These bushes are cold-tolerant down to US hardiness zone 2, and the unique elongated fruits are the color of blueberries but taste like a cross between blueberries and raspberries.

This guide to how to grow honeyberry plants reveals all you need to know, from planting in the right spot to maintaining and harvesting the fruits.

Whether picked for desserts, pudding, jams, jellies, or simply to eat straight off the bush or tree, there is a fantastic range of fruits to pick in August. They ripen in the summer sun, and it pays to know the signs the fruits have reached prime time for picking.

I grew and harvested many different fruits in walled gardens, where I maintained fruit trees and soft fruit bushes and picked the bounty to send to restaurants or sell to the public. It meant that picking perfectly ripe fruit was imperative; you only wanted to select the best, perfectly ripe ones.

To help you on your way, I highlight seven fruits to pick in August. Including the signs of ripeness to look out for, along with some tips to help you harvest the fruits properly and get a blemish-free yield.

How to know which fruits to pick in August

Whether the fruits in your garden are perfectly ripe and ready to pick in August will depend on the cultivar, your location, and the weather during the growing season. The precise time they ripen can vary year to year, and not all the fruits may be ready to pick at the same time, so you will need to check and pick your fruits regularly to get them at their peak.

1. Blackberries

The harvesting season when you grow blackberries can run from midsummer to early fall, usually from July to early September, with August being a prime time for picking the large berries from the stems.

Ripe blackberries have a rich dark color, which develops from reddish to fully black when they are ready for picking. Blackberries don’t ripen after picking; it is best to scour the plant for ripe fruit once a week during harvesting season.

It is also often beneficial to net the soft fruit from birds to prevent them from stealing your precious harvest.

Wear gloves, unless you are growing a thornless variety, and the fruits should detach easily, coming away with the core attached.

If you are growing loganberries, which are a cross between a blackberry and a raspberry, these fruits ripen at the same time. Loganberries turn deep red to purple and should come away from the vine with a gentle tug.

2. Blueberries

The season for picking blueberries runs from June to August, as the ripening of the fruit depends on the cultivar. However, when growing blueberries, the signs of ripe fruit and the best way to pick them remain the same, no matter what the variety.

It comes down, firstly, to the color. A ripe blueberry is completely blue throughout, with no signs of any white, pink, or green on the fruit. And it will come off the bush easily when ripe; if you have to pull, it’s not ripe.

To harvest blueberries, roll the berry between your thumb and index fingers, and it should easily come off the bush. Alternatively, you can get a handheld berry picker tool to run over bushes and collect the berries.

Once you know how to get a blueberry bush to fruit, the reward will be a bounty of healthy fruits summer after summer.

3. Figs

A fig tree can produce fruit twice a year, in spring and summer, and it can be difficult to know when to harvest figs. But it is something you want to get right, and the way to do that is by assessing the sight and touch of the figs.

Look for the largest figs on the tree and pick them, leaving smaller ones to ripen next year. A ripe fig will hang downwards on the tree; the stalk will bend and not stand proud of the tree like a young, firm fig.

You may also see a drop of sugar sap at the base of the fruit, and the skin can start to split. Plus, a ripe fig will be soft to the touch.

If you take a ripe fig in your hand and just slightly lift it up and away from the tree, it should come away easily. If the fruit doesn’t come away or emits a milky sap, it is not ready to be picked.

4. Peaches

Peaches are ready for picking from late June through August. When you’ve got a peach tree to fruit, the secret to knowing when to pick the fruit comes from the color.

A ripe peach should be fully colored. It may be yellow or have a red blush, depending on the variety, but there will be no evidence of green on the fruit.

Harvest peaches by holding them in your hand and giving them a gentle twist, which should be enough to separate them from the tree. If they don’t detach, they are not ripe enough and are best left for another day.

Take care harvesting the delicate fruit, as peaches bruise easily, and gently lay them in a single layer. It will be understandable if they don’t all make it back to the house, as a fresh peach still warm from the sun is an absolute treat.

Nectarines are smaller than peaches and have smoother skin, but these two stone fruits should both be ready for picking in August. Look for the same full color with no green, to know it's time to harvest nectarines.

5. Plums

Like many other fruit trees, when you grow plums, not all the fruits will ripen at the same time, so remember to check the tree regularly to pick all those that are ready to go. Giving the tree lots of sun and fertilizing the fruit tree will help the plum tree to fruit, then you just need to know the signs of ripe plums.

Plum trees are ready to harvest from midsummer to mid-fall, and ripe fruits will feel soft when squeezed. The fruits may be shades of yellow, red, or purple, depending on the variety, but they will emit a sweet smell when fully ripe and come off the tree with a gentle twist, without the need to pull.

If you grow a damson tree, which is a relation of the plum, the fruits are likely to be ripe this month too. Damsons are smaller than plums, but will have a deep blue color, feel slightly soft, and detach easily from the tree, too.

6. Raspberries

Before planting raspberries, consider when you want fruit. You get summer-fruiting raspberries that will provide a crop in June or July, while fall-bearing types, also known as ever-bearing raspberries, start to crop from the middle of August.

Once your raspberry plants are fruiting, it is best to pick them on a dry day to stop them from degrading quickly. A ripe raspberry should be plump and deep red or purple, depending on the variety, and come away from its central core and the vine easily.

It is recommended to hold the cane with one hand and gently pick the berry with the other, to avoid damaging any other fruits by letting the cane wobble back and forth wildly while harvesting.

7. Watermelon

August is a great month for picking watermelons, as you plant watermelons in late spring to early summer, and they tend to take 70-90 days from planting to harvesting.

It can be tough when you grow watermelon to know when it is perfectly ripe, but there are some tell-tale signs you can look out for.

A ripe watermelon should be dense and feel heavy for its size; this shows it is full of juice. The watermelon should be dull, not shiny, and the stem will be brown. The spot where it sits on the ground should be yellow, not white or green. You can also tap the watermelon, and if it makes a deep, hollow sound, that means it's ripe.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a sharp knife to cut the melon, leaving two inches of stem on the fruit. It can be stored for up to a week at room temperature.

It’s an old debate about whether tomatoes are fruits or vegetables. While they are used as a vegetable in the kitchen, tomatoes are officially fruits (scientifically and botanically speaking) and are ready to pick in August.

When growing tomatoes, check the plants every few days to pick ripe fruits. Harvest the tomatoes once the colour fully develops (whether that tomato variety is red, yellow, orange, or purple), the fruits have a little give when squeezed, and they come away from the vine easily.

Pruning fruit trees in August can feel counterintuitive. You might think you need to leave your apple and pear trees well alone while the fruit ripens. But, in my experience, a well-timed summer prune can make all the difference when it comes to the quality of your harvest.

A few summers back, while working in South Wales, I tended to three quince trees in a meadow at the rear of the garden, all of them with dense, leafy canopies (so thick I could barely find a safe spot for the ladder). After a few rather precarious moments balancing high up, I thinned out the crown, removing fleshy, unfruiting shoots and opening up the canopy for better air circulation. The result? Energy-efficient trees, focused on ripening their fruits, with the sun able to reach right into the heart of the tree.

I’ve found this philosophy holds true for many fruiting trees, including popular varieties like mulberries, peaches and damsons. Some careful cuts now will, in my experience, result in a better quality of fruit later this year. So, if you’re wondering which plants to prune in August, add these seven fruit trees to your list.

7 fruit trees to prune in August

Learning how to prune fruit trees in summer is less about hacking back wildly and more about a bit of careful intervention, trimming only the young fleshy growth.

Put simply, the goal is to reduce water loss through unnecessary leaves and focus more energy on those ripening fruits.

I’ve done this for years, standing atop wobbly old ladders, thinning old apples, trimming pears and taming quinces. And trust me, it pays off.

My advice? If you have one or two fruit trees to prune in August as part of your summer gardening checklist, make sure your tools are sharp and clean (you don't want to spread disease), and invest in a good quality ladder.

Try something like this highly rated Wolec telescopic V-shaped ladder, available from Amazon, which will let you get up close and personal in the canopy.

1. Apricots

Many different varieties of delicious apricot trees are popular with gardeners, and for good reason.

Most can be grown between zone 5 to zone 8, and whether you grow compact varieties in small urban yards, or larger, standard specimens that can soar over 20 feet, pruning in August is important.

In terms of getting an apricot to fruit (and producing the tastiest fruit), you need to let light penetrate the crown and provide plenty of ventilation. Now is the perfect time to thin out overcrowded growth, especially the inner canopy.

Be cautious not to prune too heavily, which would be a fruit tree pruning mistake at this time of year. Summer trimming isn’t about reshaping the tree entirely, but more about refinement.

Focus on overly leafy stems and congested areas, cutting two or three leaf nodes above a cluster of fruit, being careful not to damage fruit as you work.

For branches and apricot growth that is hard to reach, try something like this telescopic extendable tree pruner, available from Amazon.

2. Damsons

Damson trees might be less well-known than other popular trees, but these plum-like fruits are certainly worth your time.

If you have already learned how to get a damson tree to fruit, you will probably soon be overloaded with small purple fruits. In fact, the branches can get so heavy under the weight of the crop, they can begin to droop.

While damsons naturally shed some of their fruit in early summer, sometimes referred to as the 'June drop', it’s worth lending a helping hand.

As with other trees, I would advise thinning fruits so that there’s one damson every two to three inches on a branch. It feels brutal at the time, but those left behind will ripen and swell up all the better.

If you fancy investing in some new Japanese gardening tools for your summer jobs in the yard, try these Okatsune pruners, available from Walmart, which will surely elevate your gardening game this August.

3. Apples

Russets are my favorite apple variety to grow – a British heritage apple, with a bit of a rough texture, but the most delicious flavor.

Whatever variety you grow, whether Russet, Jonagold, Gala or Fuji, August pruning is key. If you grow apples in borders or grow apples in pots, simply snip away any non-fruiting shoots that are drawing too much energy.

Focus on the top growth, cutting down to a few leaf nodes. Reducing shoots and dense clumps of leaves will allow light to access the center of the tree.

For thicker apple branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through chunky stems that are a little too big for your pruners.

When pruning apples, you might be tempted to pluck one or two around this time, but learn from me: they’re not ready. Bitter and far from enjoyable. But a good prune can help them get there, and your fruits should be ready come fall.

4. Pears

Pears are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow, in my experience. I have grown two of the most common (and popular) varieties previously: Conference and Comice, both of which are ideal for smaller yards, as you can train them against a wall (as an espalier).

If you want to add a sweet, tasty heritage variety to your plot this year, try this live Bosc Pear Tree (Pyrus 'Bosc'), with live plants available from Nature Hills.

I have also trained pear trees as step-overs, growing them along a low wire at the edge of a kitchen garden in South Wales. While training like this takes a little patience, once established and happy, these low-growing trees can be good croppers.

As with apples, pears are masters of hiding their fruit beneath leafy canopies. In August, I make a point of pruning pears by thinning the stems and reducing vigorous, unproductive shoots. You want dappled light reaching every fruit, even those hidden in the center under old branches.

And, remember, keeping your tools sharp is so important when pruning trees, and using a sharpening stone will really help to make the job ten times easier.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which will help to keep your pruners in effective working order.

5. Quince

Quince trees, with their velvety, furry fruits, are surprisingly easy to grow, so long as you give them a little August attention.

Their canopies can become so dense (and heavy) with fruit and foliage, meaning that sunlight struggles to filter through, and that’s a problem if you’re after fruits that are good enough for jellies, chutneys, or simply as a table centerpiece in fall.

So, learning how to prune quince trees is important. A light thinning of non-fruiting shoots can dramatically improve the ripening process, cutting the new growth down to two or three leaf nodes.

For top shoots that grow upwards atop the crown, use something like this highly rated pole saw from Fiskars, available now via Home Depot. After all, you don't want to finish pruning with a handful of long shoots remaining right at the top of the tree.

I generally find that quince trees don't require too much fruit sacrificing, but if you have a cluster of three or four fruits together, it is probably worth tossing one or two on the compost heap, or leaving them as a snack for wildlife.

6. Mulberry

Mulberry trees are, quite simply, some of the best fruit trees with a delicious crop. If you already have one in your yard, I won't have to convince you of their value.

I once cared for a large mulberry with drooping, weeping branches that cascaded with fruits every summer. Picking was an ongoing summer task, done as needed, with half of them going into the freezer, but more often than not, we ate them straight off the branch.

August mulberry pruning is less about shaping and more about practicality: removing dense growth that hides fruit, and helping the harvest to be the best yet.

You don’t want to hack away mindlessly, but do take out vigorous new shoots that are shading the crop. But remember, keep any hard pruning to when the tree is dormant in winter.

7. Peach

In terms of when to prune a peach tree, a slightly different approach is required. The August pruning is usually done after (not before) the harvest is finished.

This is because after the fruits are picked, you might notice lots of leafy peach shoots springing upwards.

So, when learning how to prune a peach tree, simply complete a little trimming and thinning to help the tree redirect its energy towards strengthening branches and setting up for next year’s crop (remember that peaches form on new growth, so don't worry about impacting next year's fruits).

Focus on removing vertical shoots, as well as any congested growth in the center. Open, airy crowns mean less risk of mildew and pests.

Leave any hard pruning or rejuvenation pruning of non-stone fruit trees to fall and winter, ideally when your fruit trees are dormant and not in leaf, cutting back sometimes between November and February.

For stone fruits, including cherry trees and plum trees, all pruning (including rejuvenation) should be done during summer to reduce the risk of diseases such as silver leaf and bacterial canker, which can prove fatal.

For more information, see our guide on when to prune fruit trees.

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Damsons are lovely fruit trees that produce many dark blue fruits in late summer and also offer white blossom in spring. These historic fruit trees have been cultivated and harvested for centuries. They are simple to grow and still provide many benefits to anyone wanting to cultivate homegrown fruit today.

The damson fruits themselves are smaller and harder than other plums. While not so suitable for enjoying straight off the tree, damsons are ideal for using in the kitchen, making jams or jellies, or turning into liqueurs.

If you are looking for simple, versatile, and tasty fruit to grow at home, then damsons, while maybe not the first fruit tree you think of, tick all those boxes. I looked after damson trees in a walled garden while working as a professional gardener, and have spoken to a fruit tree expert for some extra growing tips. So, let's look in depth at how to grow a damson tree, including where best to plant the tree and lots of care tips to help you get great harvests.

How to grow a damson tree – an expert guide

Damsons (Prunus insititia) are related to plum trees, but the fruits are small and not as sweet as most traditional types of plum trees. The purple fruits have been popular for centuries and can be used in various ways.

Sheryl Normandeau, experienced gardener and co-author of 'The Prairie Gardeners' Go-To for Fruit', claims that damsons 'make the most scrumptious jam' and is a big fan of the fruit trees.

‘I would absolutely recommend growing a damson tree,’ says the fruit expert. 'Damson trees are reliable producers of large harvests of delicious small fruit. As they are self-fertile, you only need one tree to get that bountiful fruit, making them a good choice for a small yard.'

When and where to plant a damson tree

Damson trees can be planted throughout the year. However, the ideal time to plant fruit trees is in late winter or early spring.

Bare-root fruit trees are available during the dormancy period to add to your backyard ideas, while container-grown damson trees can be sourced year-round. Planting in late spring or summer will require a high degree of watering to help the tree get established.

There are many varieties of damson trees to consider planting, which are grafted onto different rootstocks to control their size. Full-size damson trees can reach 15-20 feet tall, while trees grafted onto dwarfing rootstocks may only get to around six feet.

Damson trees do like space and to grow in the ground, but you can grow smaller varieties of the fruit tree in pots in smaller backyards. Damsons are also suitable for training against a wall or fence as a fan, cordon, or espalier fruit tree to get large harvests in more confined spaces.

As for where to grow a damson tree, they are hardy enough to grow year-round in US hardiness zones 5-7, as some varieties can tolerate temperatures as low as 14°F. Always check that any type is suitable for your climate before going shopping.

'Damson trees are adaptable to both part shade and full sun,' says Sheryl Normandeau. 'They are relatively drought-tolerant once established, and prefer well-drained soil amended with compost in the spring.'

An ideal spot to grow a damson tree would have six to eight hours of daily sunlight and a fertile, well-draining soil type. As referenced by Sheryl, amending the soil before planting with organic matter, such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold, will help improve the soil structure, fertility, and moisture-holding capacity.

To plant the fruit tree, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the rootball and position it level with the ground. Ensure the graft union is 2-3 inches above the soil line, then fill the hole with soil, gently pressing it around the roots to eliminate any air pockets.

Stake the tree after planting and carefully tie it to the support, then give it a thorough deep watering. Use soft ties, such as these stretchy and extra-wide tree ties at Amazon.

How to grow a damson tree – care tips

• Watering - Damson trees want regular watering after planting, for their first season in their new home. Take time to water plants throughout that first summer, and use a soil moisture meter (such as this soil moisture meter at Amazon) to get quick judgments of the water levels in the ground. Once established, watering during dry spells will help your damson tree to fruit. A lack of moisture can cause trees to shed their fruits. Mulching around trees with organic matter such as compost, leaf mold, straw, or woodchips will help to retain moisture in the soil and smother weeds.
• Feeding - A regular fertilizing schedule is beneficial when you grow a damson tree. Fertilize fruit trees annually in late winter using a balanced product. Scatter the granular product around the base of the tree and water it in well. Damsons in pots require feeding with a liquid feed high in potassium every few weeks during spring and summer. This will aid the production of fruit.
• Pruning - There is one major fruit tree pruning mistake to avoid with damson trees, and that is trimming them in winter. Understanding when to prune fruit trees means you keep them healthy. While you prune many fruit trees in winter, damson trees, like plums and other stone fruits, do not want to be trimmed when dormant. This leaves them susceptible to diseases, such as silver leaf. 'Mature trees can be pruned in late spring through early fall,' says Sheryl Normandeau. 'Damson trees less than three years old may be pruned to shape in spring.'
• Harvesting - 'Healthy established damson trees produce abundant fruit and, like apples, will naturally drop some of the fruit (usually in June) to help lighten the load,' adds Sheryl. 'You can help out by thinning the fruit. Remove one fruit every two to three inches on the branch.' Damsons ripen in late summer to early fall, and the fruits ripen at different times, so they need regular checking. Ripe fruits will have a deep blue color and feel slightly soft when squeezed. The fruits should come off the tree easily; if they don’t detach, then leave them to develop. Finally, be careful when picking damsons as they bruise easily.

FAQs

Can I grow a damson tree from a stone?

You can grow a damson tree from a stone, but it comes with a degree of risk. Propagating the fruit tree from stones takes many years to produce fruit, and it will be a different fruit from the original type of plum. If you wish to attempt this experiment, similar to when you grow a plum tree from a plum, wash the stone and let it dry out before planting it in a pot filled with well-drained soil.

How long do damson trees take to fruit?

A damson tree will take 3-5 years to produce fruit once it is established in its new home. If you grow a damson tree from a stone, the time to the first fruit increases to up to 15 years.

Are damsons poisonous to dogs?

The stones of damsons contain cyanogenic glycosides that can be toxic to dogs, especially if they are crunched and ingested.

Another historic and underrated fruit tree is the quince. These large and unique fruits do need cooking to make them edible, but they can be used in jellies, jams, pies, and other desserts.

Quince trees are low-maintenance and cold-hardy to -15°, which makes them great options for many backyards. To discover more, see our focused guide on how to grow quince trees for expert tips on planting and maintaining these distinctive trees.

Although raspberries are thought to be one of the easiest fruits to grow at home, it's not uncommon to struggle to get a harvest. But, a few adjustments can quickly help you get a raspberry plant to fruit.

Knowing how to grow raspberries involves being aware of the environment they need in order to thrive, which ultimately improves chances of fruiting. This includes choosing a sunny position, providing enough nutrients, and even just understanding which variety you have, as different ones have slightly different fruiting patterns.

A lack of knowledge about this often results in gardeners having a leafy plant with no fruit, even when growing raspberries in pots. But, don't fret. Here, I share a few tricks to get your raspberry plant to fruit, with insights from a fruit growing expert.

3 ways to get a raspberry plant to fruit

Of course, before even getting to fruiting, you need to make sure you've planted your raspberry plant correctly. This includes getting the timing right, usually in fall or spring, but it's best to research the specifics for the varieties you're growing.

Likewise, different varieties will suit different US hardiness zones, so it's important to choose the right one for your yard – explore the raspberry plants at Nature Hills.

1. Identify which raspberry variety you have

It may surprise you to learn that not all raspberry plants fruit at the same time, an essential to understand when trying to get a raspberry plant to fruit.

'Some will fruit only once, in early summer, and others will set fruit twice in a season, the second time being in fall' explains gardening expert Annette Hird.

Some varieties that fruit twice include 'Crimson Giant' (plant available at Burpee). This is also known as 'everbearing,' a term to look out for when you want to select a raspberry plant that fruits twice in the season.

'The variety determines how raspberry pruning is carried out when the plants are dormant, and if this is done incorrectly, it can affect fruiting,' Annette notes. 'Some varieties fruit in new season canes (the woody stems of these plants), while others will fruit on canes that grew in the previous season,' she explains.

So, if your raspberry isn't fruiting, it may just be that it isn't time for it to fruit. Or, you may have made a pruning mistake, for example by pruning away a cane from last year that your raspberry needs to set fruit this year.

To resolve this issue, research your type of raspberry plant, its fruiting time, and pruning needs. And when it does come to pruning, always use clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars pruning shears from Amazon.

2. Your raspberry plant needs direct sun

Just like getting a blueberry bush to fruit, raspberries need plenty of sun to support healthy fruit production. Too little sun will hinder your raspberry plant's ability to carry out key plant processes that lead to fruit development.

'Like most fruiting plants, raspberries need plenty of sun and adequate water to produce fruit, but good drainage is essential. In fact, if they don't receive at least six hours of sun daily, this can reduce fruiting,' says Annette.

If your raspberry plant is in a pot, it's easy enough to relocate it to a sunnier spot. But, if your raspberry plant is in a more permanent position, you may need to turn to other methods to increase sun exposure.

This includes pruning tree branches of neighboring plants that may be casting shade on your raspberry plant. You can also prune higher raspberry stems that are blocking light to the lower stems.

If you're growing raspberries indoors, you can employ the help of grow lights. This full spectrum grow light from Amazon even has a timer function, so you can set it to come on for six hours a day.

3. Your raspberry plant needs a boost of nutrients

If you're doing everything right in raspberry plant care but you're still having no luck with fruit, it might just be that you need to fertilize your raspberries. Like fruit trees, brambles use up nutrients quickly and require regular feeding to ensure they receive sufficient essential plant nutrients to aid fruit production.

'They also benefit from a good fertilizer that contains greater amounts of potassium and phosphorus, rather than an overload of nitrogen. But, you can get away with a balanced feed, or use compost,' Annette says.

Plant fertilizer numbers (NPK) will indicate the ratio of potassium and phosphorus, both of which are needed for flowering and fruiting, while nitrogen focuses on vegetative growth.

A berry fertilizer (from Amazon) is a good choice, or as Annette notes, you can use homemade compost for a more organic route.

Spring is a crucial time to fertilize raspberries, when they're beginning to actively grow. A slow-release granular fertilizer (from Amazon) is also a popular choice, providing the plant with a gradual release of nutrients over a longer period through the growing season.

FAQs

How old do raspberry plants have to be before fruiting?

Depending on the variety, raspberry plants can fruit in their first or second year. Summer-fruiting varieties typically fruit on last year's growth, meaning they will fruit in their second year. Autumn-fruiting varieties tend to fruit on this year's growth, so it is possible for them to fruit in the first year.

Making these adjustments can help you to get a raspberry plant to fruit, but you also need to get some other things right. This includes transplanting raspberries at the right time. Too early may shock seedlings, hindering the plant's ability to establish well and support fruit production later on.

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If you've spent years nurturing a peach tree only to never get any fruit, it might just be that you need to adjust the growing environment you're providing. There needs to be some specific conditions in place to get a peach tree to fruit; otherwise, a harvest is unlikely.

Not only do you need to know how to grow and care for peach trees to be successful, but you also need to be familiar with the signs your peach tree is struggling to focus on fruit production. Yellowing leaves alongside a lack of fruit could indicate a bigger issue, like a nutrient deficiency, for example. Or, it could be a small lighting adjustment needed to get a peach tree to fruit.

It's also important to know these trees grow best across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9, so you may struggle to achieve fruit elsewhere. If, however, you are growing a peach tree in these zones and aren't getting a harvest, keep reading. Here, experts share a few tricks to try to get a peach tree to fruit.

3 ways to get a peach tree to fruit

If you have just planted a young peach tree (from Nature Hills) this year and haven't got any fruit, don't panic. Peach trees will only start setting fruit between two to four years old. If you have an older peach tree with a lack of fruit, try making one of these three adjustments:

1. Your peach tree needs more cold exposure

Just like getting a plum tree to fruit, peach trees need something called 'chill hours,' i.e., a period of exposure to colder temperatures ahead of the fruiting season.

'Peaches have evolved to know when spring arrives. They have hormones in their bodies in the fall when their leaves drop. Then, as they are exposed to cold weather over a certain amount of time, referred to as 'chill hours,' those hormones degrade,' explains garden expert Colleen Dieter from Red Wheelbarrow.

'When those hormones are completely degraded, the peach trees bloom,' she adds.

If your peach tree hasn't experienced a sufficient amount of chill hours, it's less likely to bloom in spring, therefore hindering fruit production later in the growing season.

'Certain varieties of peaches are adapted to certain areas with a certain number of chill hours. For example, here in Austin, TX, we are very far south and we have very mild winters. For Austin, we need peach varieties that require around 500 chill hours, like 'La Feliciana' or 'June Gold',' says Colleen.

'For areas further north, they may have longer, colder winters and the peaches need more chill hours, so people gardening in those regions need different varieties,' she adds.

So, it may just be that you are attempting to grow a peach tree variety that doesn't suit the temperature patterns of your local region.

'If a peach tree isn't suited for your climate, it might bloom too late, or too early. If it blooms too early, a late frost can kill all of the flowers, which means it won't yield fruit that year,' says food growing expert Veronica Tegen.

Find a peach tree for your US hardiness zone at Fast Growing Trees, and use this outdoor thermometer from Amazon to monitor temperatures for your tree.

2. Your peach tree needs more direct sun

It's no surprise that peach trees need plenty of sun to fruit, as the majority of fruit trees do. So, if your peach tree isn't fruiting, it may just be that it needs more exposure to direct sun.

'In summer, peach trees are simultaneously ripening fruit and producing flower buds for next year's crop, so plenty of light is needed,' says Veronica.

'Peach trees need at least 20% full sun in the summer in order to produce flower buds for next year's crop. The top of the tree can shade the interior or lower branches, preventing flower buds from developing there, and only developing at the very top of the tree,' she adds.

To resolve this issue, prune tree branches blocking light to the lower branches. You should likewise prune neighboring trees casting shade.

Use essential pruning tools to do this, like these loppers from Amazon, to make clean cuts and prevent damage to your tree.

Of course, there are some peach tree varieties that can be grown in pots. In this case, consider moving your container to a sunnier spot in your yard.

3. Your peach tree needs a more steady water supply

This is also one of the biggest mistakes when it comes to getting a pear tree to fruit, getting a fig tree to fruit, and getting a mulberry tree to fruit. The right moisture levels are particularly important when your peach tree is young.

'Young peach trees need a steady supply of water to maintain health and vigor. After they are four or five years old, they are much hardier as their root system is larger and extends deeper into the ground,' says Veronica.

Having said that, allowing your peach tree to go through a prolonged period of drought can cause fruit to drop,' Veronica notes. The best thing to do is to water your peach tree regularly during the growing season in spring and summer.

You can use a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to establish whether your peach tree needs some hydration.

FAQs

Will pruning help my peach tree fruit?

Yes, pruning can help your peach tree to fruit, so long as you avoid fruit tree pruning mistakes.

'Peach trees can grow really fast, given the right conditions. If this happens, you might want to prune your peach tree's new growth back in June or July,' says Veronica.

'This allows more light to reach lower branches so they can set fruit buds for next year. It also keeps fruit lower on the tree, which is easier to harvest,' she explains.

After making these adjustments, you're likely to watch your peach tree produce delicious fruit for you to enjoy.

Harvest peaches in summer when the fruit has turned yellow and comes away from the branches with a simple twist.

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