August is a peak time for dahlias, as these showy blooms burst with color and dazzle with their intricate petal arrangements. But, in the current heatwaves we're experiencing, these perennials can struggle to put on such a spectacular display. Luckily, if your dahlias have stopped flowering, it's easy enough to fix before fall.

Growing dahlias takes patience, perseverance, and careful management if you want to get a showstopping display. The scorching temperatures and lack of rainfall this summer are likely to be the most common cause behind a lack of blooms. Forgetting to deadhead and nutrient deficiencies in soil can also cause a lack of flowering – that's why it's a good idea to always have some gardening snips to hand (like these Fiskars garden snips on Amazon).

The good news is there's still plenty of time left in the growing season to revitalize your dahlias and get them flowering once again. Here, with insights from an expert, we talk through the top three reasons why dahlias stop flowering and how to fix it.

1. Heat Stress

The reason dahlias stop flowering prematurely is because they're experiencing stress in their growing environment. During hot summer weather, heat stress is often the culprit.

'Dahlias thrive in the temperature range between 60-80°F. Extreme August heat spikes above this range can cause plants to go temporarily dormant and stop producing new flower buds,' explains Plantum plant expert, Marina Prokaten.

Other symptoms of heat stress include leaf scorch, wilting, and pest damage, due to being more vulnerable.

Alongside improper watering, this can cause a decline and the premature death of your dahlias.

'During hot, dry periods when the soil dries out quickly, dahlias need a deep soak 2-3 times a week. Always water deeply at the base of the plant – overhead watering wets the foliage, which rots developing buds, damages heavy blooms, and drastically increases the risk of flower-stopping fungal diseases,' Marina describes.

By keeping your plants hydrated and using a shade cloth (like this from Amazon) during a heatwave, you can combat heat stress and nurture your dahlia back to healthy blooming.

2. Lack of Deadheading

One of the best ways to get non-stop flowers from your dahlias is by keeping on top of pruning and deadheading.

Once pollinated, dahlias form seed pods that need to be removed to encourage more flowers. They can be easy to miss, as they look similar to flower buds, yet are more cone-shaped. If you neglect removing them, it signals to the plant the flowering season is ending and it begins slowing down.

The best thing to do is remove spent blooms as soon as you spot them, following the stem down to the next set of leaves and making a clean cut. These Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's would work well for dahlias.

You can also pinch out dahlias to encourage a more prolific display and disbud dahlias to get longer stems with bigger flowerheads.

Pruning dahlias like this will redirect the plant's energy into putting out more blooms before the summer season ends.

Just take care to avoid pruning mistakes when trimming these perennials, as you could sabotage your late-summer display by accidentally removing buds.

3. Nutrient Deficiency

Dahlias are very hungry plants and when they're flowering, they use up a lot of energy and nutrients in the soil. If they start to slow down, it might just be they have a nutrient deficiency and are struggling to put out blooms.

Likewise, if you have been fertilizing your dahlias, Marina warns you could be using the wrong type:

'Using high-nitrogen plant food promotes lush foliage instead of flowers. To keep buds forming through August, feed your flowers with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every 3 -4 weeks from mid-summer to early autumn,' she advises.

Look for fertilizers with an NPK ratio higher in phosphorus and potassium, as this supports blooming. This TPS dahlia fertilizer from Amazon is a good choice.

You can also use this Amazon soil test kit to determine which essential plant nutrients are lacking in your dahlia's soil and amend as needed.

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Marina notes to also look out for summer garden pests and diseases on your dahlias:

'Aphids attack delicate young growth and floral buds, draining energy and preventing buds from opening. Use neem oil (from Walmart) or insecticidal soap to tackle the issue early on.

'Powdery mildew typically strikes in late summer, covering foliage in a white coating and depriving the plant of the energy required to set flowers. Prevent powdery mildew by maintaining adequate plant spacing for airflow, keeping foliage dry when watering,' she says.

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August is not the garden's finest moment, especially after the scorching heatwaves we've experienced this year. Blooms are fading, lawns are brown, and it feels nearly impossible to stay on top of watering. But, there are a few quick tricks you can use to revive your garden and give it one last show of summer color before fall arrives.

Knowing how to bring back color to your garden in August is a key part of summer gardening. Deadheading, clearing out, smarter irrigation, and filling gaps with late-summer blooms all give your yard a second lease on life. Even if you just pick up this pack of vinca plants from Walmart to add some color to your patio pots.

But, it does require a little bit of work. Here, with the help of a gardening pro, we talk through how to give your tired garden a transformation in just one week.

1. Start By Deadheading

Deadheading is one of the easiest ways to get non-stop blooms in your yard through summer. While we're still in the active growth season, you can encourage many plants to push out more blooms by removing the faded ones.

It's as simple as taking sharp pruning tools (these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon are a reliable choice) and cutting off faded flowers. Always cut above a set of leaves, as this is where new growth will emerge.

Of course, this is talking quite generally and it is important to research your specific plants' needs. Hydrangeas, for example, will not always rebloom when deadheaded.

'Leaving spent flowers on the plant allows them to develop seeds. Once a plant has produced seeds, it may begin to slow down its flower production,' says Shelly Deaton, co-founder of Earth Spoke Farms.

'Throughout August, stay on top of deadheading roses, snapdragons, cosmos, zinnias, branching sunflowers, dahlias, and other repeat bloomers,' she advises.

This is an especially important thing to do if you dahlias have stopped blooming – deadheading dahlias will help you get more flowers until fall.

2. Remove Dead Matter

By August, many late-spring and early-summer perennials are finished for the season. While there are huge benefits to not over-tidying your yard for wildlife in fall, you may want to remove these faded plants now to give your yard an instant clean-up for the remainder of summer – you can always leave faded late-summer blooms for fall instead.

Focus on any plants that look unsightly, brown, and crisp. To avoid pruning mistakes, it's important to research how to cut back your specific plants. For many perennials, you can cut them back to just above ground level.

It is best to leave any perennials that still have green foliage. Allowing them to dieback naturally will conserve energy for another impressive display next year, and avoid any additional stress in hot summer conditions.

There are lots of essential pruning tools for different needs. These Fiskars micro-tip snips from Amazon are good for tending to smaller plants, for example.

3. Water Deeply

It goes without saying that watering your plants will give them a boost and rehydrate them. But, when your garden is showing signs of heat stress, it's important to change tactics and focus on deep watering specifically.

This refers to watering plants for a long period at a time, often 20-30 minutes, if not longer. It's an essential method to watering plants in a hot weather correctly.

Of course, this can be extremely time-consuming and labor-intensive to do this manually. That's where a soaker hose (like this from Amazon), a sprinkler with a timer (like this from Walmart), or something like Garden In Minutes watering grids come in.

These irrigation tools not only sufficiently water plants, they can help reduce water waste in the yard by applying water directly to plant roots.

4. Feed Flowering Plants

When our plants are working hard during summer, nutrients in the soil deplete quickly. To lend a helping hand, you can fertilize your plants to boost nutrients and encourage another flush of blooms.

As with pruning, you should do some research around your specific plant's needs to avoid fertilizing mistakes. For example, it's best to avoid fertilizing any sensitive plants during a heatwave, as this can encourage fresh new growth susceptible to heat stress, ultimately weakening the plant.

Plant fertilizer numbers should also be considered. You may want a phosphorus-rich fertilizer for blooming plants (like this bloom booster feed from Amazon) and a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer (like this from Lowe's) for a general boost where a plant is struggling with a nutrient deficiency.

Fertilizing container plants in particular can be beneficial, as the nutrients in potting mix leach from containers much more quickly.

5. Fill Gaps

The last way to bring back color to your garden in August is by taking a trip the garden center and picking up flowers already in bloom.

Use these to fill gaps in beds and borders, or plant them up in pots for your patio. This set of terracotta pots from Amazon is handy to stock up on.

You could even relocate healthy summer containers to borders to fill gaps with the existing color in your yard.

'Look for healthy, established annuals that are already blooming or have plenty of buds. Planting a few new annuals into garden beds that are beginning to fade can give them an immediate boost of color,' says Shelly.

Some of the best late-summer flowering plants include dahlias, salvias, cosmos, zinnias, and rudbeckias. You can also look for ornamental grasses for texture, and colorful foliage plants like coleus (view the range at Plant Addicts) and sweet potato vine.

An important note: you should avoid planting anything out during extreme hot weather and make sure to provide lots of water to newly planted additions during dry spells.

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As summer starts to wind down this month, you can look ahead to fall. There are plenty of flowers to plant in August, in preparation for the fall garden, for example.

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This summer, after another exceptionally hot July, I have found myself increasingly impressed by the plants that simply take heat and drought in their stride and don't need supplemental watering. I've always had a soft spot for silver-leaved plants such as santolina and lamb's ear, which seem to relish the conditions that leave other perennials struggling.

Of course, there is no such thing as a plant you can put in the ground and literally never water. Every shrub and perennial will need some care while establishing, particularly during its first and even second year. But after a few growing seasons, there are many species that can survive perfectly happily on rainfall alone, even during prolonged dry spells.

So, if you are looking to create a more resilient plot, it is worth exploring these low-maintenance backyard ideas that pair beautifully with the plants below. And if you want to capture a Mediterranean feel, start with something like a tough Spanish lavender (live plants are available via Amazon). Here are seven of my favourite plants you never need to water once established.

1. Lamb's ear

Native to Turkey, Armenia and Iran, lamb's ear is a drought-tolerant perennial that is hardy from US hardiness zones 4 to 8 and thrives in full sun.

I grew plenty of it while working as a gardener in Italy, where it lined gravel paths and softened the edges of borders beneath olive trees and silver shrubs. Once established, I never watered it, even during the hottest weeks of summer.

You can find lamb's ear starter plants at Amazon.

Lamb's ear dislikes rich, damp soils, instead thriving in poor soil and free-draining earth, where many other perennials struggle. If you are looking for one of the toughest plants you never need to water once established, this is difficult to beat.

2. Lavender

If there is one plant that sums up a Mediterranean summer, it is lavender. Most lavender varieties are well adapted to hot, dry climates, although hardiness varies depending on the species.

You can find live lavender plants at Walmart.

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is generally hardy from US zones 5 to 9, while Spanish lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is better suited to warmer regions, typically zones 8 plus.

Whatever type you choose, lavender performs best in full sun and free-draining soil. In fact, overwatering is often a bigger problem than underwatering. Once established, it is perfectly happy growing in gravelly ground with very little intervention.

3. Santolina

Santolina, or cotton lavender, deserves far more attention than it receives. This evergreen silver plant has evolved to thrive in hot, dry conditions, producing aromatic silver foliage that looks fresh even after weeks without rain.

Find santolina plants via Amazon.

Santolina chamaecyparissus is hardy down to US hardiness zones 6, performing best in full sun and sharply drained soil, whether planted in gravel gardens, borders or edging pathways. Once established, it is exceptionally drought tolerant and rarely requires supplemental watering.

One tip: a light trim after flowering helps maintain its neat, rounded shape and prevents plants becoming woody.

4. Russian Sage

Russian sage is a hardy perennial that produces airy clouds of lavender-blue flowers above silvery stems from midsummer well into fall, creating one of the coolest colour combinations for a sun-baked border.

Hardy down to US zones 4, Russian sage, or Salvia yangii, thrives in full sun and free-draining soil. The silver foliage helps reflect intense sunlight and reduce moisture loss, allowing plants to sail through long dry spells with minimal watering.

You can find Russian sage at Plant Addicts.

Its soft lilac flowers pair beautifully with other silver-leaved plants, such as lamb's ear or artemisia or santolina, while lemon-yellow blooms, including geums and black-eyed Susans, create a striking contrast in my experience.

5. Buddleia

This summer has completely changed my opinion of buddleias. For years, I thought of them as railway plants, but during the heatwaves of this summer, they have simply carried on flowering. Few plants seem better equipped for drought.

One note of caution: Buddleja davidii is considered invasive in parts of the Pacific Northwest, including Oregon and Washington, so always check local guidance before planting.

Compact cultivars such as 'Blue Chip' or 'Miss Molly' are good options, and tend to be better behaved choices for smaller backyards while retaining the same drought tolerance and long flowering season.

Try the 'Black Knight' buddleja, for a dark, moody option, available now via Fast Growing Trees.

6. California Poppy

You will often find California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) self-seeding into gravel gardens, roadside verges, cracks in paving and dry, sandy banks, where they thrive on sunshine and surprisingly little water.

California poppy seeds can be bought via Walmart.

Scatter seed directly where you want plants to grow and, once established, let nature take over. They often return year after year with cheerful orange, yellow or cream blooms.

For more heatwave inspiration, check out our guide to the shrubs that thrive on neglect, and fill your borders with resilient flowering plants that don't mind a bit of drought.

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Most gardeners routinely add compost to flower borders and vegetable gardens in spring and fall. But don’t overlook August. It is an opportune time to add compost to your beds and borders, and your fall garden will benefit from the additional nutrients.

If you put down compost in August, your garden thrives in several ways. Compost helps the soil retain water during the heat of late summer, protects the soil and plant roots from baking temperatures, and replenishes nutrients that heavy feeders have used up before this point of the season.

You can use homemade compost or purchase bags, such as this organic compost from The Home Depot, to add as a top-dressing layer around plants in flower beds, vegetable gardens, raised beds, or containers. Trust me, your plants will thank you if you add this to your late summer gardening checklist.

Why You Should Put Down Compost in August

If you put down compost in August, it helps your garden recover from the rigors of summer and puts it in better shape for fall.

For gardeners planning to add new plants to their flower beds or borders in early fall, compost boosts nutrients and improves overall soil health by increasing the activity of beneficial microorganisms.

While lots of gardeners don’t put down compost in August, they are missing out on the fact that organic matter breaks down quicker in the hot summer temperatures than when added to the soil in spring or fall.

‘You get to see the benefits compost offers a little quicker than if you apply it when the weather’s cooler,’ claims Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms.

The experienced gardener hails compost as ‘as close to a miracle cure for your soil as you can get’ for its ability to boost various soil types if you put it down in summer.

‘It helps sandy soils to hold moisture and nutrients better, helps clay soils drain better, and increases microorganism activity in the soil – allowing beneficial fungi, worms, etc. to thrive and enrich your soil,’ he explains.

Putting down compost in August helps reinvigorate tired soil and replenish lost nutrients. If you have grown hungry crops like tomatoes, peppers, squash, or potatoes, compost can put valuable nutrients back into your soil in preparation for fall crops.

It is not just a quick fix, though you do get immediate results, as the benefits of putting down compost in August can be felt for many months to come.

‘August is the perfect time to add a fresh layer of nutrients for the fall garden,’ says Nikki Bruner from My Perfect Plants. ‘Not only does it add new nutrients, but it can help contain weed growth, retain moisture, and help boost the soil for next spring too.’

The Best Way to Put Down Compost in August

When you put down compost in August, the best approach is to add it as a mulching layer on the soil surface. Add a 1-2 inch layer of compost around the base of existing plants, spreading it thinly over the surface with a sturdy garden rake (available at Walmart), or 2-3 inches deep over recently cleared areas of the yard.

It is important to avoid disturbing plants already in your beds or borders in late summer – that is why it is better to top dress with compost rather than dig it into the soil.

‘Try not to dig around or disturb roots when there are still hot days on the horizon,’ warns Marian Keith, horticulturist at Newfields. ‘If you're adding compost to established garden areas, top dress with about an inch and don't be tempted to get too heavy-handed.

‘Keep your coverage from piling up at the base of plant stems and avoid the temptation to stir up or otherwise disturb the soil.’

It is a mulching mistake to pile the soil against stems or over the plant crown. Always leave a gap of an inch or two around the plants to eliminate any risk of rotting. It is recommended to water the compost after applying it to the soil.

Siobhan Shaw, co-founder of Growing to Give, warns about using unfinished or hot compost for the task. ‘Finished compost is excellent to apply in August as a top dressing,’ she says. ‘Hot compost can damage plants, tie up nitrogen, burn roots, introduce weeds, and attract pests. I would not put this around actively growing plants’.

A good test for whether homemade compost is ready is that it smells earthy and neutral, is fully decomposed with no recognizable signs of plant material, and is at an ambient temperature rather than warm. As temperature is a good indicator, a compost thermometer (from Amazon) can be a welcome investment.

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August can offer an opportune time to give many plants a late-summer boost so they can flower and fruit strongly into fall.

Anything still blooming or producing fruits, such as roses, dahlias, or tomatoes, is among the most important plants to fertilize in August. As are plants growing in containers that need regular nutrient top-ups to keep performing at their best.

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Meet the Experts

Shrubs are quite literally the backbone of a low-maintenance backyard. And easy-going shrubs that look after themselves in late summer are exactly what we all need when the weather's there to be appreciated. So pull up a recliner and let's go through a handful of my favorites. All will bring color, structure, a long season of interest and, crucially, zero demands at this time of year.

From pretty, late-flowering specimens to architectural shade lovers and glossy-foliaged evergreens that will look fabulous all year round, I've selected seven brilliant shrubs that will set your backyard care regime to autopilot. Many are perfect for containers too, whether that's on the patio, flanking the front door or creating focal points within your outdoor space.

Plant-and-forget shrubs that thrive on neglect will change the way you garden. To read more, Taylor's 50 Best Shrubs from Amazon is a reliable and informative book full of foolproof options.

1. Mexican orange blossom (Choisya ternata)

One of my all-time favorite shrubs is Choisya ternata, or Mexican orange blossom. In mid spring it's awash with deliciously scented star-shaped white flowers. And sometimes you get a second flowering later in the year, without any special treatment, just because it's generous that way.

The foliage of choisya is an easy delight too – elegant palmate leaves that release a fresh, floral scent when brushed. And because it's an evergreen you can enjoy them all year round.

How to grow choisya? Well, it's happy in sun or shade (although best out of full sun), and it's one of the best shrubs for a container.

A couple placed either side of a semi-shaded doorway – these glossy white fiberstone planters from Wayfair would really set off choisya's spring flowers – will bring structure, perfume and interest through all 12 months of the year.

Choisya doesn't even really need pruning – it's not a fast grower, so maybe if it's getting too big for its space (it can reach around 8ft/2.5m, but after quite a few years). Choisya really is the perfect low-maintenance shrub.

USDA Zones: 7-10

2. Heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica)

Despite the name, this upright evergreen is unrelated to bamboo. In fact, with its glossy, red, elongated leaves it looks more like a cross between Photinia 'Red Robin' and a mahonia, but more compact. Either way, it's a handsome plant, and a huge favorite with landscapers and garden designers, who are wise to its easygoing charms.

It needs a fair bit of sunlight to produce the fiery-colored foliage it's known for, so plant it in a west or south-facing spot, following the guidelines for how to plant all shrubs. It looks great all year round, producing delicate sprays of tiny white flowers in midsummer, the foliage taking on rich red/purple tones from spring into summer.

It's one of the best shrubs for fall berries too, producing green berries that turn bright red in fall, just as the foliage shifts once more to fiery red and bronze. And there's no real pruning requirements either.

Heavenly bamboo can reach around 6ft (2m), although there are plenty of cultivars to choose from (take a look at the nandina collection at Fast Growing Trees). They come in varying sizes, including dwarf Gulf Stream, part of the evergreen shrubs collection at My Perfect Plants, 'which grows to around 4ft (1.2m) and is ideal for patio containers.

USDA Zones: 7-10

3. Wiegela

An absolute beauty of a shrub, easy-to-grow weigela comes in many different forms, with large clusters of trumpet-shaped flowers in white, yellow, pale pink, raspberry or rich red. It begins to bloom in late spring, often with a second flush later in the season.

Depending on the species and cultivar, it'll grow to anything from 3-12ft (1-4m) tall, so there's one for any spot in the backyard, whether that's a small container or towards the back of a border. As always if planting in containers, it's a good idea to fork in some slow-release fertilizer such as Osmocote, from Lowes.

If you're asking yourself how to grow wiegela, it's a native of eastern Asia, and tolerant of all kinds of soils (although it can't handle anything waterlogged), in either full sun or light shade. And yes, you can grow wiegela in pots too.

I particularly love the variegated versions (find all kinds in Nature Hills' Weigela collection), where each deep green leaf is outlined in cream – a really pretty pairing with its pale pink flowers.

Plant weigela and you'll also be helping out your local wildlife as the flowers are a huge magnet for bees and other pollinators.

USDA Zones: 4-8

4. Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica)

Garden designer adore this shady stalwart, and for good reason. Fatsia is a magnificent evergreen shrub, with huge, glossy palmate, or hand-shaped, leaves that bring an undeniably exotic vibe. It's widely recognised as one of the best shrubs for shade, and also copes well with heavy soil.

Although fatsias are mainly grown for their dramatic foliage, in fall they can put on a surprisingly good show of creamy flowers (great for late-season pollinators), which are followed by black berries.

Some varieties will grow as tall as 13ft (4m), but fatsia is not a fast grower and you can prune it back easily in late spring if needed. And really that's all the maintenance it needs.

In a large urn it brings incredible presence and structure to a shady entrance or patio – perhaps this classic Lucca pot in Terracotta from Target. Or pair it in borders with shade-tolerant clump-forming bamboos and grasses for a lush, exotic feel.

Try the variegated cultivar 'Tsumugi-shibori' or 'Spider's Web' (from Plant Addicts), which looks like it's been dusted with sugar. It lights up a shady border with style.

USDA Zones: 7-10

5. Abelia

If you're after an easy-to-care-for late-summer flowering shrub that's happy in moist soils, colorful all year round, evergreen, scented and loved by pollinators, abelia is the one.

I think abelia is hugely underrated. It has all of these things and more. Glossy leaves, great clusters of funnel-shaped flowers in pretty shades of pink, and heaps of different varieties to choose from, many of which are tried and tested cultivars.

Try long-flowering pale pink Abelia x grandiflora, which will fill your yard with sweet perfume from June to October, or super-colorful Abelia 'Kaleidoscope' from Plant Addicts, with its dramatic color-shifting foliage.

Here's how to grow abelia. Depending on the variety, abelias tend to grow to around 8ft (2m) and prefer a sunny, slightly sheltered spot (although it tolerates shade fairly well) away from cold winds, in well-drained soil (so dig in some soil conditioner such as Worm Castings from Home Depot) if yours is heavy clay. You can give it a little trim to keep its shape in fall, but apart from that, let it be.

USDA Zones: 6-9 (depending on cultivar)

6. Sweet box (Sarcococca confusa)

Tough but absolutely beautiful, sweet box is a dense, arching evergreen shrub that flowers in late winter, its deep green stems decked with delicate star-shaped beads and heady with the most intense perfume that carries on the breeze.

Sarcococca is another of the best shrubs for shade, so grow it towards the back of a north- or east-facing border (it copes magnificently with dry shade once established) or in containers somewhere you'll appreciate that lovely winter scent.

Sweet box will grow to around 8ft (2m) tall and needs little to no pruning, just a little reshaping and removing of anything dead or damaged in early spring, after flowering, although cultivars like Sweet & Lo from Nature Hills are much more compact.

This really is one of the most useful shrubs I know, and I rely on its glossy dark green structure for the areas of deepest shade in my yard.

USDA Zones: 6b-9b

7. Chaste tree (Vitex agnus castus)

This large deciduous shrub is relatively new to me. But it's high on my list of plants to grow, after seeing it mentioned by the gardeners at legendary Great Dixter House & Gardens in Sussex, UK. Here they wax lyrical about its easygoing drought-tolerant beauty in late summer.

At Great Dixter, they grow this Mediterranean native in full sun in sharp, well-drained soil, pruning it back hard in early spring. The result is a glorious show of lavender-blue buddleia-like flowers that are at their peak from August into fall.

Like Shoal Creek chaste tree from Fast Growing Trees, all have foliage that is beautifully aromatic too. A real show-stopper of a shrub that copes extremely well with drought, simple to look after, and perfect if you're after inspiration on how to create a Mediterranean garden. It'll reach an eventual height of 8ft (2m).

USDA Zones: 7-9

It's easy to get caught up in all the jobs there are to do in the yard. But a garden is for enjoyment and relaxation, and foolproof shrubs like these will make it that much simpler to take some time to relish the color, foliage and wildlife your outdoor space brings.

I hope you've been inspired to embrace the easy wins and plant a few low-maintenance shrubs – I promise, it's the perfect antidote to a busy life.

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As summers grow hotter and rainfall becomes less predictable, American gardeners are rethinking what a colorful landscape looks like. Rather than replacing tired annual bedding plants every few months and relying on frequent irrigation to keep them looking fresh, many are choosing plants that can deliver months of flowers while using significantly less water.

That shift is helping fuel renewed interest in lantana. Long valued in the South and Southwest, the flowering plant is now being embraced across the U.S. for its ability to thrive through intense heat, produce blooms when many annuals fade, and attract butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds all the while. For gardeners looking to create a resilient landscape without sacrificing color, lantana is proving to be a practical alternative.

The growing popularity of lantana also reflects a broader change in how gardeners approach planting. Rather than designing solely for appearance, many are choosing plants that can withstand prolonged heat, periods of drought, and increasingly restrictive watering schedules. In that respect, lantana (like Burpee's Landmark Series lantana) has become one of the standout performers.

Why Lantana Is Replacing Bedding Plants

Although lantana has been available for decades (you can even order lantana plants from Amazon), landscape designers say its recent rise has less to do with changing tastes than changing conditions.

‘Honestly, I don't think this is really about lantana,’ says Tucker Tremblay, founder and principal designer of Joyner Concepts in Central Texas. ‘Lantana is simply one of the plants that happened to be ready when the climate forced everyone's hand towards perennial and deciduous color.

Tucker says the questions he hears from clients today are very different from those he encountered earlier in his career.

‘When I started in this industry, big seasonal color rotations were expected almost everywhere,’ he explains.

‘Commercial properties, HOAs, entries – you changed them out a few times a year and nobody questioned the water use. Now the question I get from clients is completely different: 'What can I plant that still works in August?''

The answer, increasingly, is drought-tolerant plants that can not only tolerate prolonged heat but can do so while continuing to perform and requiring less maintenance.

Lantana Blooms Through Summer

Lantana checks many of the boxes gardeners are looking to check. Once established, it requires relatively little supplemental irrigation, flourishes in full sun, and continues flowering through long stretches of hot weather when many traditional bedding plants begin to decline.

‘I don't think it's a trend,’ said horticultural consultant Tom Foley. ‘It's part of the reality. We have low water use needs, no matter where you are in the country.’

Tom, who now gardens in Arizona after moving from Southern California, sees lantana used extensively in landscapes because of its exceptional durability.

‘Depending on the species and variety, lantana blooms here almost year-round,’ he said. ‘And it's low water use, which is most important.’

Tom also notes many varieties spread to form attractive flowering ground cover plants, making them particularly useful on sunny slopes where erosion control is also a consideration.

For homeowners growing lantana as an annual in colder regions, the payoff is still impressive. Plants typically flower continuously from late spring until frost, providing months of color from a single planting instead of requiring multiple seasonal replacements, Tom notes.

Tom adds, lantana also ‘plays well with others’ when planted in a combination container. And since containers tend to dry more quickly than in-ground plantings, a water-wise plant such as lantana is a great choice for pots and baskets.

Pair lantana with a substantial outdoor planter such as the Veradek Demi Round Planter from Wayfair.

Ideal For Water Restrictions

In some parts of the country, particularly the Southwest, drought isn't simply influencing plant selection – it's dictating it.

‘I don't think people outside Texas fully understand how much water restrictions now drive our design decisions,’ Tucker explains. ‘We've been through several straight years of drought, and watering restrictions are simply part of life. Many Central Texas municipalities now limit irrigation to once a week during drought conditions, and during the worst of it there have been periods where irrigation was nearly shut down altogether.’

For landscape professionals responsible for maintaining commercial properties and residential communities, that leaves little room for plants that require constant attention.

‘Lantana survives those restrictions,’ Tucker says. ‘It's a workhorse. It'll handle a once-a-week irrigation schedule – or even a missed week entirely – and keep blooming.’

For home gardeners, those same qualities translate into less watering, fewer plant replacements, and lower maintenance throughout the growing season.

‘Lantana is one of the better returns on investment you can plant,’ Tucker says. ‘It blooms for months instead of weeks. It handles heat better than almost anything else that flowers. Once established, it needs very little supplemental irrigation. And maybe its best attribute, it bounces back quickly after a rough stretch.’

A simple drip irrigation kit or soaker hose such as the Rain Bird Drip Irrigation Plant Watering Kit from Ace Hardware can help establish new lantana plants while using far less water than overhead sprinklers.

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A Pollinator Magnet

Long bloom periods don't just benefit gardeners – they also provide a reliable food source for pollinators.

‘This is one of lantana's real strengths, and it's not subtle,’ Tucker notes. ‘There's almost always some pollinator visiting it. Butterflies and bees especially. Hummingbirds visit many of the varieties, too.’

Tom agrees, saying, 'Bees, definitely a little bit, but I see hummingbirds and butterflies on the lantanas a lot.'

For gardeners who don't have space for a dedicated pollinator garden, lantana offers an easy way to support beneficial insects while maintaining an ornamental landscape.

‘You plant lantana because it looks good and handles the heat, and the pollinators will follow,’ Tucker points out.

Pair lantana with a pollinator-friendly seed mix such as this Hummingbird & Butterfly Pollinator Mix from True Leaf Market to provide nectar from spring through fall and create an even more wildlife-friendly garden.

Is Lantana Right for Every Garden?

Despite its many advantages, lantana isn't a perfect choice everywhere.

Older forms of Lantana camara have become invasive plants in parts of the Southeast, particularly Florida, where they can spread into natural areas. Fortunately, many modern cultivars have been bred to produce few or no viable seeds, making them a safer option for home landscapes.

Gardeners should always check local recommendations and, where available, choose sterile or non-invasive selections recommended by their local extension service.

Climate also affects how the plant performs. In frost-free regions, lantana may behave as a long-lived shrub that blooms for much of the year. In colder climates, it is most often grown as an annual or a tender perennial, delivering continuous flowers until freezing temperatures arrive.

Both experts agree that lantana represents something bigger than a single plant trend.

‘It's probably the biggest change I've seen in plant palettes during my career,’ Tucker says of the move toward climate-resilient gardens.

Still, he doesn't believe gardeners should eliminate seasonal bedding plants altogether. ‘The goal isn't replacing every annual with lantana,’ he explained. ‘The goal is being more intentional about where annual color still makes sense and where a long-term performer is the smarter choice.’

As gardeners continue adapting to hotter summers and more frequent water restrictions, that mindset may ultimately prove to be the bigger gardening trend.

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Blueberries are an all-round super crop. Not only are they super-easy to grow, but they are also a tasty superfood, packed with vitamins and antioxidants. August is a key time in the blueberry season, and a few important jobs will keep your plants healthy and preserve your harvests.

When you grow blueberries, August is prime picking season, so get out and harvest regularly, being sure to place your fruits carefully into a basket or this garden hod from Burpee. This way, you get the fruit at its best and avoid losing many of your berries to birds. If birds are an issue, as they often are, it is wise to net the plants this month to protect your harvest.

Another important thing this month is watering; you need to water plants during hot spells so they don’t dry out. And there are preferable ways to go about it. Here we look at what to do with a blueberry bush in August, plus a few tasks not to do.

Harvest Blueberries Often

This is the fun part – picking. I have a happy blueberry bush in a large container in my garden. It has taken a few years to get to this stage, but it is covered in fruit at the moment. When you have a bush like this, regular harvesting is crucial.

The blueberry harvesting season will vary depending on your climate and the type of plant. But, in general, July to September are the prime picking months. During this time, check every few days, as blueberries across the bush will ripen at different times. If you don’t get to the fruit quickly, a bird will likely come and steal it.

To test if a blueberry is ripe, check the color. It should be completely purple-blue. If any pink or red blush remains near the stem, it is not ready. A ripe blueberry should easily detach from the bush; if you feel resistance, leave the fruit for another few days.

You can get a berry picker like this on Amazon to comb over blueberry bushes and harvest ripe fruit with ease.

Net Fruits Against Birds

I mentioned that my blueberry bush is covered in fruit. Unfortunately, it is not only me who revels in that sight. I have seen local birds coming down and stealing fruit from the bush – sometimes brazenly in front of me. If you also have this issue, it may be time to net the plant to keep the fruit to yourself.

Nets are the easiest way to protect soft fruit in your yard from birds. You can get large fruit cages to install over your fruit bushes permanently, and these are large enough for you to access for maintenance and picking – like this crop cage at Wayfair.

However, protection doesn’t always need to be so fortress-like. You can simply install bird-proof netting over the plants once they become an issue, using material like this bird netting at Amazon.

For the best protection, I have always found it is best to use posts or hoops around the bush and put the netting over these. Otherwise, clever birds can just reach through the netting and get to the fruits if you just place it on the plant – and that kind of defeats the object.

Be sure to secure the nets to the ground with landscape staples (available at Lowe’s), bricks or stones. This prevents birds from getting under the netting and getting stuck.

Water Deeply in Dry Spells

Blueberry plants have shallow roots. To get a blueberry bush to fruit to its full potential, you need to water plants during hot, dry spells in summer. This is especially true when you grow blueberries in pots, as the soil can dry out very quickly as temperatures rise.

Established blueberries need extra watering while the berries are forming and ripening. Check plants every few days during hot spells and water the garden when the top few inches of soil feel dry. You can check the levels with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon for instant results about when to water plants).

When you water, water deeply in the morning. This ensures the roots are soaked, and the moisture isn’t lost to evaporation at the surface during the hottest parts of the day.

Topping up any mulching materials around your blueberry bushes will help to retain moisture in the soil. The best types of mulch for blueberries are acidic, such as pine bark or pine needles. You can get a bag of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s.

Where you can, water blueberries with rainwater. Natural rainwater from a rain barrel is better for blueberries than tap water, as it is naturally acidic.

Fertilize Blueberries in Pots

Anytime you grow berries in containers, they need more fertilizer than bushes growing in the ground. Early to mid-August can be a good time to fertilize blueberries in pots for a boost of nutrients to finish ripening the last of the crop.

The best fertilizers for blueberries are special ericaceous feeds. This month, use a liquid fertilizer like this TPS blueberry fertilizer on Amazon. Mix the product at the recommended rate with water and use it to feed plants.

What you don’t want to do this month is give blueberries any high-nitrogen fertilizers. Doing this would be a fertilizing mistake, because it would encourage a late flush of new foliage and stems rather than ripen the remaining fruit.

This soft, new growth runs the risk of being damaged when the temperatures drop, leaving the bush more susceptible to pests and diseases.

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Another no-no for the month is pruning a blueberry bush. You should prune in late winter or early spring, as this is the perfect time to establish a good mix of productive branches on the bush and set it up for a bumper summer crop.

If you see dead or damaged stems this month, yes, they can be cut out with clean, sharp pruning tools to keep the bush healthy. But any major trimming could see you miss out on fruit and would also encourage a late flush of new growth that can be damaged by frost.

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Over the last few years of building my houseplant collection, I've tried and tested all sorts of products to make care convenient, easy, and fun. Now, my ultimate houseplant care kit has everything I need to keep my precious plants happy and healthy.

I'm not just talking about tools to water your indoor plants (like these self-watering globes from Walmart), but also those that allow me to indulge in the hobby of growing houseplants. A propagation station turns cuttings into living art (I'm obsessed with this wall hanging propagation station from Wayfair), while soft houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon) turn cleaning foliage into a weekly therapeutic ritual.

Of course, there are also essentials that help me avoid common houseplant mistakes. My soil moisture meter from Amazon stops me from overwatering and a grow light with a timer from Amazon is a staple to boost light levels in winter. Meanwhile a pebble humidity tray (like this from Walmart) quietly helps my orchids thrive.

Whether you have just one small succulent, a shelf full of trailing vines, or a whole living room packed with statement foliage, these 16 tools will tend to all of your indoor gardening needs.

To really take your indoor garden to the next level, think about how to style your houseplants. Sure, a single plant on a coffee table will bring you joy, but a tiered plant stand will elevate your prized collection and create maximum impact.

It's also important to keep on top of summer houseplant care and winter houseplant care. As we transition through the seasons, our houseplants can struggle. Being prepared is the best way to keep them looking their best and avoid any losses.

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Most people are very busy during the summer. Family activities, holidays, and social functions all demand our attention, and sometimes the garden is the unfortunate one left behind. Even if you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, you can keep your outdoor space looking good.

To help you put together an achievable summer gardening checklist for when you are short of time, I consulted some experts. They picked their top summer jobs for a homeowner who can commit to gardening for 15 minutes a day in their busy lives. These focused jobs can keep a garden looking pleasant and full of blooms without exhaustive effort.

It is all about figuring out the high-priority tasks for each 15-minute block. Abandon any dreams of clearing the whole garden, but focus on what needs to be done each day. Key jobs like weeding, watering (you can get a soil moisture meter from Amazon), deadheading, feeding, supporting plants, propagating and more can all be done in small windows.

Stop Weeds From Seeding

It may never be the most glamorous or enjoyable task (though I do know some gardeners who love spending time getting rid of weeds), but weeding is always essential in summer.

The adage goes ‘one year of seeds, seven years of weeds’, and it is true that letting weeds set seed creates a snowball effect of issues. To stop future you having to deal with even more weeds, set aside some 15-minute blocks for this task.

‘Pulling weeds before they produce seeds can help prevent thousands of weed seeds from landing in your garden,’ says Justin Hancock, Horticulturist for Costa Farms. ‘And the younger a weed is, the smaller the root system and the easier it is to pull. So even if you just pull a couple of weeds every day, it can make a difference.’

Smaller weeds can be removed quickly with a garden hoe, but older or tap-rooted weeds need a more thorough approach. You need to use a type of weeder that guarantees you remove the entire plant and its roots to prevent it from resprouting. This can be a fork or a hand weeding tool like this at Walmart to lever weeds out of the soil.

As you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day, set realistic goals for weeding. Your borders or raised beds may be weedy, but remain focused on weeding quickly. ‘I would not worry about making every bed spotless, but I would absolutely pull anything that is about to seed,’ adds Alex Wright, the Founder of YardCalc.

Water to Keep Plants Alive

There is no escaping that if you are gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, much of that time may be taken up by watering plants in hot weather. However, be selective about what you focus on, as some plants need more watering in a heatwave than others.

‘Focus on keeping plants, especially this year's additions, alive,’ recommends Marian Keith, Horticulturist at Newfields in Indianapolis, Indiana. Also, seedlings and plants growing in pots in container gardens need to be at the top of your watering hit-list.

Water deeply to deliver the moisture to the roots. You should ideally water the garden in the morning, so plants have time to hydrate before temperatures rise. You can water in the evening, but take extra care to water the base of the plant, not the foliage.

Alex Wright advocates for proactive planning. He recommends using watering tools or a timer, so this time-consuming task doesn’t take up your 15 minutes of gardening time.

‘Drip irrigation or even a basic hose timer changes the whole equation,’ he says. ‘Watering is super important, especially for containers, raised beds, and new plantings, but it is also one of the easiest garden jobs to automate.

‘If you only have a few minutes a week, I would rather use that time on the things a timer cannot do.’

You can get an automatic timer at Garden in Minutes that has a simple dial for set-up and two outlets – perfect for attaching to drip irrigation, soaker hoses, sprinklers, or just a garden hose.

Deadhead to Extend the Show

Flower beds and container displays may start to look past their best as the first blooms go over. If you can commit time to deadheading flowers during summer, you can extend your display of blooms and keep the garden full of color.

Christina Stembel, founder and CEO of Farmgirl Flowers, admits she often has 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes in the evening to garden. She picks tasks according to what needs most attention each day.

‘One day it's deadheading because the blooms are literally dead and failing to remove them will probably prevent a second flush. The next day it's weeding because the weeds are gobbling up all the resources,’ says Christina.

‘Right now, my 15 minutes in the morning is usually spent deadheading to keep our flowers flowering through August and into September.’

Removing the old flowers tidies borders and stops plants putting energy into producing seeds. That energy goes back into developing buds and opening new flowers. If you can find time to deadhead flowers in August, your garden will keep putting on a glorious show for longer.

A pair of pruning snips (such as these Japanese pruning snips on Amazon) or shears is a perfect tool for deadheading. You can snap some blooms off between your fingers and thumb, but you must be careful not to damage any stems or unopened flowers.

Fertilize Plants in Containers

Summer can be taxing for any plants in pots. The warm temperatures mean the limited moisture in the soil disappears quickly, and nutrients quickly leach from the containers. It can leave plants starved and looking past their best in summer.

‘When I have 15 minutes to spare, I turn my attention to my potted plants,’ says Tenielle Jordison, garden content editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘They can start to look a little tired after such a hot summer, so I give them some extra nourishment.’

It shouldn’t take long to rejuvenate container plants and help to keep annual flowers blooming for longer in pots.

‘If the potting mix is hard and compacted, I first gently loosen it with a hand fork. Then, a balanced all-purpose liquid fertilizer (like this TPS one on Amazon) gives my plants a quick boost,’ adds Tenielle.

‘A layer of compost or potting mix can also be helpful, replenishing nutrients and topping up soil that has depleted over time, whether from watering or decomposition.’

You can get a bag of organic potting mix at Burpee to top up containers and give them a late summer boost.

Check For Disease

There can be many potential diseases around in the summer. Warm, humid weather, along with garden watering mistakes like soaking the foliage, leads to common diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, blight, and more, which trouble both ornamental and edible plants.

When it comes to diseases or summer garden pests, it is best to act fast and nip problems in the bud to stop them from spreading. As you are out gardening for 15 minutes a day, keep your eyes peeled for fungal coatings on leaves, yellowing foliage, or other markings.

‘Just like with weeds, diseases are easier to deal with if you catch them early,’ says Justin Hancock. ‘Removing an affected leaf at the start of an infection can help stop that infection from spreading further. And it keeps your garden looking better.’

Always clean your pruning tools with sanitizing sprays or wipes (available at Walmart) after removing any diseased leaves, to prevent spreading the issue to other plants.

Alternatively, you can get a ready-to-use copper fungicide at Amazon that gardeners can use to treat many diseases, including mildews, blight, black spot, and more.

Check Plants Are Supported

Christina Stembel adds that another of her regular 15-minute jobs is ‘adding more supports to the dahlias so they don't topple over from the weight of the heads’. While out in the yard, gardeners should also take time to check their plant supports to ensure they are fully protected from wind damage or buckling under the weight of flowers or fruit.

Top-heavy flowers like dahlias, delphiniums, peonies, or phlox, or weighty fruit-bearing crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, or eggplant all need strong supports. Dry soil will contract in the summer and can loosen stakes like bamboo canes or wooden posts. Check that your plant supports are firm in the ground, and push them deeper as required.

These plants can also need new plant ties to keep them supported by the posts. Add any new ties as needed to stop stems snapping and ruining potential flowers or crops. Always use soft plant ties, such as these Velcro garden ties at The Home Depot, and never use wire or hard plastic as they can rub and even snap the stems.

Do Some Quick Propagation to Plug Gaps

Extreme summer heat can take its toll around the garden. If your garden has experienced losses, don’t just rue lost plants. There are new ones you can replace them with.

That list includes heat-tolerant perennials you can plant in August, like coneflowers or black-eyed Susan, to fill gaps and enjoy a fall display. And there are fast-growing flowers to sow in August, like calendula or sweet alyssum, that have time to give you late-season blooms.

Sedum ranks among the former, a low-maintenance perennial you can add for late-summer and fall blooms that will attract pollinators.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, suggests a quick and easy way to grow sedums without needing to head to the garden center and spend money on new plants.

'I've lost quite a few annuals to the heatwave this year, so I've been filling gaps in my containers with a super quick propagation trick,’ she reveals.

‘I snip short, single stems off a lovely trailing sedum, which I love for its blue-grey foliage and tolerance of full sun. I immediately pop them into gaps and sprinkle with water, and within a week I can see new growth.

‘It is the easiest and most reliable plant I have ever multiplied, and it's ideal for right now, when the temperatures are still high.'

You can also take plant cuttings of sedums and start them in pots, rather than place them in the garden. If you only have 15 minutes in the garden, getting new plants for free seems like a very effective use of your time.

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If you prefer low-maintenance backyard ideas to intensive gardening, our guide to ‘the 10 minute garden’ might be perfect for you. It features inspirational ideas for a glorious garden that needs just 10 minutes of maintenance a week.

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As we edge towards the end of the growing season, many plants are slowing down and reaching the end of their lifecycle. Both annuals and perennials produce an abundance of seed during this time, and there's often more than enough for you to collect, save, and grow free plants next year.

Collecting seeds and growing your own plants is not only highly satisfying and cost-effective, but it can also help you reduce any associated packaging waste and emissions when buying seed. You can stock up on paper envelopes from Amazon to store them correctly over winter until it's time to plant in spring. These are also great for gifting to family and friends to start their own garden.

Here, our experts share their tips for harvesting popular seeds in August and how to safely store them.

1. Cosmos

Easy to grow and hugely popular, cosmos are perfect for brightening up a border or adding to a container. With cosmos varieties available in soft pastel shades and vibrant hues, these annual flowers are a versatile and dependable favorite.

As with the others mentioned, waiting until the morning dew has dried or after a few rain-free days will help ensure those you collect are dry. Collect the seed heads by snipping them off with some precision snips, such as these Felco F322 pruning snips, available from Amazon, when they are brown and dry to the touch.

Leave the seedheads to dry further on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse on paper towel before storing them somewhere cool, dry, and dark over the winter.

Mintee Kalra, Founder of Mintee Kalra Studio, also suggests: 'Don't collect seed from every flower. Be selective. Save seed from the healthiest, longest-blooming plants with the strongest form. You're quietly shaping the future of your garden.'

2. Calendula

Blooming from spring until the fall, calendulas are ideal not only for your garden but, being edible flowers, are perfect to jazz up a salad with. Additionally, Calendula officinalis is an excellent companion plant for your beans and tomatoes.

To collect calendula seeds in August, leave some flowers to fade and form seedheads. Once the petals have dropped and the seedheads turned from green to gray-brown, snip them off. However, to reduce any chances of mold, Mintee advises, 'Harvest only once the seed heads have fully matured and dried on the plant.'

Once completely dry, you can gently separate the curved seeds for storage.

When it comes to choosing storage vessels, Amy Martin, landscape designer and the founder of Plant and Bloom Design Studio, advises, 'storing them in a breathable container, never plastic. Small paper envelopes are my favorite; they label easily and stack neatly until it's time to sow next season.'

Once placed in a labeled envelope, you can organize them in a box, such as this Pethiy moisture-proof seed storage box, available to purchase from Walmart.

3. Zinnia

Another flower seed to collect in August is zinnia. Adored for their pops of subtle or vivid color and enticing shapes and sizes, zinnia varieties are wide-ranging.

To keep these annuals flowering as long as possible, regular deadheading is required. However, to allow the seedheads to form and dry out before winter arrives, you may want to leave some blooms to go to seed in late summer.

In warmer parts, zinnias can self-seed, but to make sure you have a free supply of zinnia plants next year, you need to collect some as well.

To harvest zinnia seeds, once the petals are long gone and the seedheads are dry and crispy, remove the entire seedhead and separate the arrow-shaped seeds to store.

To ensure high germination rates, Mintee suggests, ‘Store seeds somewhere cool, dry, and dark in paper envelopes or packets, which allow any remaining moisture to dissipate. Heat, humidity, and light are the quickest ways to reduce seed viability.’

If you have never collected flower seeds before, a seed-collecting kit that provides everything you need to harvest and store seeds can be a great place to start. Orionstar seed storage organizer kit, is available to purchase from Amazon.

4. Sunflowers

Grown to brighten up the garden and as a cut flower, sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are not only easy to grow but easy to collect seed from.

Depending on the sunflower variety and time of sowing, sunflowers may not be ready to harvest their seed from until early fall. However, earlier varieties, especially when grown in hot, dry areas, may well be ready for collection.

As an important food source, you will want to leave some seeds for the birds, but sunflowers can produce hundreds of seeds, so there are enough to go around.

To collect sunflower seeds, cut off the brown, dry, faded flower head and place it on a tray or sheet. Rub and, if necessary, gently pull away the seeds. To ensure they are free of moisture, place the seeds on a paper towel for 2-3 days before placing them in an envelope.

Labeling your seed envelopes is essential for clear organization. But Mintee further recommends, 'Label more than just the plant name. I like to include the collection date and one observation about the parent plant: 'longest flowering,' 'best color,' or 'most vigorous.' Over time, those notes become a quiet record of the garden you're cultivating.'

5. Nigella

Prized for its delicate and whimsical flowers, nigella, or Love-in-a-Mist as it is affectionately known, is one to sow in the fall and is a lot tougher and hardier than it looks. Additionally, as a self-seeding annual, it tends to naturally come back year after year.

Once its intricate blooms fade, nigella develops balloon-like seed pods that turn brown and rattle when they are ready to be collected.

To avoid losing the tiny seeds, cut off a stem holding several seed pods with a pair of pruners, such as these Okatsune 103 bypass pruners available from Amazon, and place them in a paper bag upside down. Shake gently and the seeds will fall out of the pods and collect at the bottom of the bag.

6. Sweet Pea

One of my favorite flower seeds to collect in August is the sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus). A stalwart of cottage gardens and cut flower gardens, their beautiful and scented flowers are equally at home scrambling up an obelisk as they are in a vase indoors.

Producing a profusion of flowers over the summer, you will want to deadhead sweet peas regularly to stop them setting seed. However, come late summer when they begin to wind down, you can let some flowers form pods so you can collect sweet pea seeds for next year.

Once the seed pods are brown and brittle, you can cut them off and bring them inside to dry out further. After they have completely dried, you can collect the round, black seed by splitting the pods open and storing them in a glass jar.

Whether you gift the seeds to a friend or sow them and pass young plants on to a neighbor, sweet peas are always gratefully received.

Airtight glass jars are available to purchase from Walmart.

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Having collected your flower seeds this August, you may be wondering how long you can store the seeds for. The answer depends on the type, as some seeds should be sown within a year, and others seem to last indefinitely. However, annual flower seeds tend to remain viable for 1-2 years before their germination rates begin to decrease. But there are exceptions, and if stored correctly, they can last longer.

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Coneflowers steal the show during August. Clustered together, in full bloom, they make a dazzling sight with their long petals, in delicious shades of dusky pink, vanilla and soft white shining in contrast against the raised dark centers.

Magnets for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, these sun loving perennials are easy to care for and their appeal lasts long after the petals fade. Not only do their striking seedheads add texture and seasonal interest when left intact on the upright stems but they are packed with nutritious seeds that are highly prized by garden finches, bluejays and cardinals throughout fall and winter.

Knowing how to grow coneflowers (echinacea) - is pretty straightforward but there are some care tasks that should be tackled during August. Equip yourself with sturdy pair of Felco Pruning Snips from Amazon and read more about when to remove and leave fading flowers, damaged stems and other late summer coneflower issues.

Stop Feeding Coneflowers For Healthier Plants

August is the time to stop fertilizing coneflowers, in fact these short-lived perennials should rarely need feeding if the growing conditions are right.

'Native plants adapted to the local region don't need fertilization, especially when grown in healthy soil,' says Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation, Mary Phillips. 'Excess fertilizer can actually encourage lush, weak foliage growth at the expense of blooms. Instead, focus on building healthy soil with organic matter such as compost and leave natural plant material in place where possible.'

Consider the best coneflowers varieties for your plot; there are plenty of irresistible offerings at Burpee, including Butterfly Kisses Echinacea Purpurea.

Work well rotted organic compost such as this R&M compost from Amazon into the soil around the base of the plant or learn how to make compost using your own garden and kitchen waste.

Manage deadheading coneflowers for a smooth transition into fall

Each raised and slightly bristly coneflower centre harbors a surprising number of seeds, presenting the wildlife loving gardener with a tricky dilemma. When is it best to stop deadheading blooms - pausing the formation of future blooms - and leave the seedheads to die back naturally?

'By late summer, it's a good time to start shifting the mindset from maintaining the garden to creating wildlife,' says Mary. 'Rather than cutting coneflowers back as soon as flowers fade, allow the stalks and seedheads to remain standing through fall and winter. They provide food for birds, structure for the garden, and places for insects to shelter and overwinter.'

Can't bear to bid the vibrant blooms goodbye? then selective deadheading can prove a handy compromise, as Mary explains. 'Gardeners who want to extend lowering can selectively deadhead some blooms while leaving others to mature into seedheads.'

Coneflower is one of the best plants for attracting American Goldfinches into your yard. Provide a natural feast for the eyes and seed-eating birds by weaving 'Ruby Star' Coneflower from Nature Hills through a mixed bed of ornamental grasses or fill planters with attention grabbing varieties such as native 'Green Twister' coneflower and the sweeping petals of 'Pale Purple' Coneflower, both from Plant Addicts.

Only Remove Dead Or Diseased Stems

There's no need to routinely cut back coneflower stems at the end the summer. Robbing the plant of late blooms, valuable seedheads and the opportunity to replenish its energy reserves before winter dormancy, experts now advise to leave the plant to die back naturally.

That said, there are exceptions. 'It is important to cut back any diseased or dead steams in Fall or even in Winter dormancy,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This will help protect the plant against any future infestation or fungal issues the following Spring when the new growth emerges. When cutting back the dead stems, prune to about 1-2 inches above the ground using a clean pruners.'

Hand shears such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Walmart will do the job, but remember to limit the spread of any fungal spores by disposing of infected plant material in the household garbage rather than the compost heap.

Stake Coneflower As And When Needed

August is the last month where coneflowers are actively growing, so it pays to let them harvest all the energy they can, to strengthen root systems ready for the dormant season and following spring, when growth resumes.

Although fairly robust plants, occasional summer storms can take their toll and damage stems and foliage. Provide support to help aid stem recovery, as landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman explains.

'If staking is needed, utilize 3-5 stakes around the mass with loose twine. Don’t try to stake each stem, rather stake it in a bunch to retain the strength of the massing,'

While regular bamboo canes such as these from Walmart will do the job, they look very visible. Instead opt for an elegant metal peony support like this from Amazon or rustic spiral plant supports from Agriframes.

Save Some Seeds To Grow On

Coneflowers are prolific seed producers and late summer is the perfect time to harvest them. Whether you are looking to gather and raise your own plants from seed or pass seeds on to friends, it's time to get gathering and discover the seed harvesting mistakes to avoid.

Look for fading blooms with dark, plump and firm central cones, and snip them off with 4-5in (20-22.5cm) stem intact. Place stems upside down in a paper bag, with ends of the stem protruding, secure the bag around the stems with a length of twine a hang in a warm, dry yet well ventilated spot for 1 to 2 weeks.

Once dry, the seeds will fall from the seedhead into the bag. Use these garden tweezers from Walmart to remove the chaff and stems. Store seed until needed in these brown kraft bags with window, from Amazon.

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Keep these eye-catching perennials in good shape for next year by learning how to winterize coneflowers in 5 steps.

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I love growing herbs on my patio, where I can enjoy their delicious fragrance every time I head out into the yard. Not to mention, many of them are super low-maintenance – I simply pot them up, position them somewhere sunny, and water during hot spells.

While growing some herbs is a bit more demanding and often requires frequent harvesting with herb scissors (which are available at Amazon), some Mediterranean herbs are less effort to keep in shape. I grow both rosemary and thyme, which look beautiful even when I forget to water and haven't pruned in a while.

One of the main reasons these are herbs that thrive on neglect is they prefer their soil to fully dry in between watering and don't demand fertilizer. Here, I talk through five of the best herbs to grow if you want lots of flavor for minimal effort.

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is the number one choice of low-effort herb to grow. Native to the Mediterranean, it thrives in full sun, is drought-tolerant, doesn't need feeding, and doesn't require frequent pruning to maintain its neat, upright shape.

Growing rosemary is easy, with varieties like 'Arp' (which you can find at Plant Addicts) being hardy across zones 6-10. The one thing to note is that not all types of rosemary are frost-tolerant, so you may need to overwinter rosemary to ensure it makes it through to next spring.

Rosemary can be grown as bigger fragrant shrub, or you can grow rosemary in a pot. Whatever the case, giving it an occasional trim to maintain its shape will reward you with aromatic sprigs to cook with.

You can also pick up rosemary starter plants at Walmart, or shop rosemary seeds from Burpee to grow it from scratch.

2. Thyme

Just like rosemary, thyme (USDA zones 5-9) is a drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb that loves full sun, infrequent watering, and doesn't demand fertile soil.

For the best flavor, give thyme 6-8 hours of direct sun, which will trigger the production of essential oils. You can let its soil dry out in between watering, with too much water causing root rot.

As for its growing medium, thyme does well in poorer, sandy soil over fertile, moisture-retentive compost.

I grow 'Silver Queen' thyme which beautifully spills over the edge of its pot. You can find thyme plants at Walmart or use these Amazon thyme seeds to grow a new plant.

3. Oregano

Oregano is one of the best herbs for getting a big harvest for little effort. It loves direct sun and poor soil, it's drought-tolerant, and its beautiful flowers attract pollinators.

It's best not to fertilize oregano, as this can encourage soft new growth over essential oil production. Likewise, you should harvest oregano to keep it growing by taking cuttings above leaf nodes. This will help maintain its bushy shape.

It's best to give oregano well-draining soil, as it doesn't enjoy soggy conditions. Bear in mind it can spread fast, so a container with a drainage hole is ideal (like these terracotta pots on Amazon).

Oregano grows across USDA zones 4-10, and you can order oregano plants from Amazon.

4. Chives

Not only do chives bring a fresh, delicate flavor to cooking, they also produce pretty blooms to add color to your herb garden. As alliums, this herb produces purple or pink pom-pom flowers in spring and summer.

As for growing chives (USDA 3-9), these perennial herbs are highly undemanding.

They prefer consistently moist soil, but are very forgiving if you forget to water them thanks to the water storage in their bulbs and leaves. Likewise, they can grow in both full sun and partial shade, and return reliably after dying back in winter.

When harvesting chives, use gardening snips (like these Fiskars ones from Amazon) to cut at the base of the plant, rather than the tips. This will encourage fresh growth for a continual harvest.

Find chive seeds at Burpee.

5. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm is on the list of herbs that thrive on neglect because it's super forgiving. As a member of the mint family, it's hardy across USDA zones 3-9, copes well with short period of drought (though it prefers consistent moisture), and is highly resistant to pests and diseases.

Even if you do forget to water lemon balm, it will bounce back quickly. Pruning lemon balm will give it vigor again – just give it a chop if it's leggy and it will soon put out fresh new growth.

It's easy to harvest lemon balm, too. Pick the young leaves to add into teas, desserts, and salads.

It's important to note it does spread rapidly like other types of mint, so it's often best to grow lemon balm in a pot.

Find a lemon balm plant at Plant Addicts, or grow it with these lemon balm seeds from Botanical Interests.

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No matter which herbs you add to your garden, make sure to read up on herb gardening mistakes to avoid. This includes not harvesting to encourage more growth and overcrowding your plants.

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Late summer is when the garden can feel at its most abundant, with borders still bursting with color and plenty of flowers ready to fill a vase. But as the days begin to shorten and the first signs of fall creep in, it is worth looking ahead, too. With the right plants, that display doesn't have to end when summer does.

Amongst the best winter flowers, there are, believe it or not, several that can keep flowering right through to December and, in some cases, beyond. I have found there are often enough blooms in the garden to fill at least a jam jar and bring indoors, even in the darkest months. The holidays are not reserved for holly, ivy, and mistletoe – I've brought in large pewter jugs filled with colorful flowers, with handfuls of rosemary and ivy adding fragrance and greenery. My floral snips, which you can find at Target, are never out of my pocket.

It simply takes knowing which plants will keep chugging on as temperatures drop. Here are seven flowers to grow now for blooms that can carry you right through to Thanksgiving and Christmas, helping to keep the garden – and your vases – full of color for longer.

1. Rosa 'Hot Chocolate'

USDA zones 5-9

Height: 3.5 ft

Planting Location: In mixed borders or in containers.

Rosa 'Hot Chocolate' is a force to be reckoned with. One of the longest-flowering rose varieties, it can keep producing blooms long after many other roses have packed up for the season.

Flowering begins in May and continues through summer, with the plant still going strong by Halloween and, in mild conditions, producing flowers into December.

The orange-flame buds open into warm, velvety, chocolate-brown flowers, set against wonderfully dark, glossy foliage. Highly floriferous and scented, these unusual blooms make a beautiful addition to a festive vase, particularly mixed with evergreen foliage, rosemary or berries. If your garden is still producing roses in December, 'Hot Chocolate' is one variety worth bringing indoors.

A similar rose is the 'Red Double' Knock Out rose from Plant Addicts, which is hardy in zones 5-11.

2. Daphne bholua 'Darjeeling'

USDA zones 5-10

Height: 8ft

Planting location: Plant 'Darjeeling' where you can brush past it regularly to experience its intoxicating fragrance. By front doors, back doors, gates, or near patios. Due to their considerable root system, they prefer to be planted in the ground and are not very container-tolerant. Daphnes do not like to be moved, so pick their forever location from the outset.

This evergreen daphne is intensely fragrant and provides year-round green structure in the garden.

Whilst it looks fantastic all year round, come November, it bears masses of white flowers, and by Christmas, they are in full swing.

They're a doddle to grow, so long as they are fed in February or March with a little bit of organic fertilizer, like this organic sea kelp fertilizer available at Amazon, they will keep flourishing for decades.

3. Rudbeckia hirta 'cherry brandy'

USDA Zones 4-7

Height: 60cm (24in)

Planting location: Extremely pot-compatible, so one of the best plants for container gardening. Works well in mixed borders as long as the soil is fertile, so keep it well fed. If you have a cutting garden, this is a must-grow flower.

The slightest mention of rudbeckia, or black-eyed Susan, and many of us instantly think of the canary yellow plants that are resilient, but don't always fit into our color schemes. But not 'Cherry Brandy'.

'Cherry Brandy' is one of the very best Rudbeckias on many counts, not least for its rich and highly unusual crimson blooms that appear in July, and so long as you pick them regularly, they will continue to appear without hesitation right through December.

Rather astonishingly, it has a vase life of ten days to two weeks, and I have been known to pick this on Christmas Eve and have it still perky in the vase by New Year's Day.

You can find Rudbeckia ‘Cherry Brandy’ starter plants at Amazon.

4. Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel)

USDA Zones 3-9

Height: 15 ft

Planting location: Pick a location in partial shade. Growing witch hazel in pots is just as easy as planting it in the ground. They are incredibly easy-going plants. Just be sure there is good drainage, as they loathe waterlogged soil.

The joys of growing a witch hazel are relatively new to me, and I only wish I'd discovered this enchanting plant sooner. As the garden loses much of its summer colour, its bare branches become covered in ribbons of flame-colored flowers, creating one of the most magical displays of the colder months.

Better still, the flowers can continue through December, making witch hazel a wonderful plant to grow if you want winter color both outside and in. Cut a few branches for a vase and the fragrance is extraordinary – rich and sweet enough to make scented candles and room sprays feel entirely unnecessary.

The delicate flowers are also beautiful in festive arrangements. I love gathering a few stems with ivy and hellebores in a large pewter jug, but they would also make a lovely addition to a homemade Christmas wreath, bringing a little unexpected color and fragrance to traditional winter greenery.

Hamamelis virginiana is a US native variety and you can find it at Perfect Plants.

5. Cobaea scandens

USDA Zones 8-11

Height: 10ft

Planting location: Plant on a climbing support in moist soil. It also trails beautifully, so it works at the edge of a pot, and it will cascade beautifully down the side.

Cobaea, often referred to as cup and saucer vine or cathedral bells, is one of the very best fast-growing climbing plants for a plethora of reasons. Its eagerness to grow very loftily is, of course, a non-negotiable when it comes to good climbers, and it can soar up to staggering heights of 10-15ft without issue.

But its merits don't stop there, cobaea flowers hard from summer and through winter, and although it should technically stop flowering come the end of October, if it is in a nice sheltered position without intense cold, it will continue to bloom right through to late December or early January.

You can purchase cobaea seeds from Amazon

6. Viola 'Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy'

USDA Zones 3-9

Height: 15cm (6in)

Planting location: Grows perfectly in pots. Use a simple organic potting mix enriched with earthworm castings, like this potting mix available from Amazon, and keep deadheading regularly.

Viola 'Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy' has both a charming name and a charming character. This frilly, ruffled pansy is a cool-season star, producing velvety burgundy flowers from fall into early winter and shrugging off the chilly conditions that would see many summer flowers give up. In fact, the cooler the weather, the more pronounced those wonderfully ruffled petals become.

It is an especially useful choice for containers, where its compact, mounding habit can keep otherwise bare pots full of color as the garden moves towards winter. Deadhead spent blooms regularly to encourage more flowers, and plant in fertile, well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade.

The one thing to watch is slugs and snails, which can damage violas, particularly when plants are young. If they are a persistent problem in your yard, a physical barrier such as copper barrier tape like this one available at Amazon can be a useful extra layer of protection around containers.

You can purchase viola Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy seeds from Amazon.

7. Dahlia 'Moor Place'

USDA Zones 7-10

Height: 1.2m (4ft)

Planting location: Dahlia 'Moor Place' works well in a mixed herbaceous border, cutting garden, and really looks terrific in large containers.

You must feed this plant with a potash-rich fertiliser to prolong flowering. This potash supplement available at Amazon will ensure your dahlias will be perfect at ensuring they keep blooming for as long as possible.

Most dahlias will die back when the first hard frost hits in November. But certain types of dahlias can continue to flower even as the temperatures plummet, and if you're looking to grow dahlias specifically for their staying power, then it's the pompon dahlias, like this one, you want to keep an eye out for.

'Moor Place' is the most weather-resistant of them all, and it is easily kept going (with regular deadheading, of course) for use in Christmas bouquets.

You can purchase Dahlia 'Moor Place' tubers from Eden Brothers.

It is extraordinarily productive and produces flowers of the most saturated deep purplish-burgundy hue. In the summer, they look beautiful next to Knautia macedonica and acid-green euphorbia. Come wintertime, most other plants will have finished flowering, and this dahlia has enough presence and color to still make a serious impact.

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Even many of the best-performing, longest-flowering perennials, like catmint and geums, won't keep blooming by December, even if you do give them all the TLC in the world.

All of these flowers like to see the sun during the summer months, so if your garden is cloaked in deep shade, you may find that you need to stick to full-shade perennials to deal with these tricky areas.

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Sunflowers are a mainstay of my cutting garden. I grow lots of different varieties, and usually none of them require vey much attention from me at this time of year. This summer, however, is hitting a little differently.

This August, I am giving them a little more care and attention than I usually would, owing to the intense heatwaves and lack of rain we've experienced. The conditions mean my sunflower patch needs more TLC to stay healthy and blooming into fall.

The key, really, is to keep watering and redirecting the energy into new flower buds, and for that I need to keep my trusty Fiskars snips (which you can find at Target) to hand at all times. Here are the steps I'm taking to prolong my sunflower display for as long as possible.

Water Deeply

Hydration is king in the garden right now, and while this is not always possible for larger trees and your lawn, if you can direct water resources to your annual flowers they will thank you.

When watering plants in hot weather, it's always a good idea to do it in the morning, and water as deeply as you can.

Sunflowers need a lot of water, and especially those growing in containers, which will dry out more quickly than flowers in beds. Water at the base, rather than over the foliage, to direct all the moisture to those thirsty roots.

To make the job easier, I love my expandable Flexi Hose, from Amazon, which is quick to set up and move around the yard, and also very easy to store.

If you're not sure how much water your sunflowers need, a great value moisture meter (we love this one from Target) will tell you what you need to know.

If you're struggling with water resources, there are lots of ways to reuse household water in the garden in times of drought.

Keep Cutting and Deadheading

Don’t be afraid to cut sunflowers while they’re still looking fresh. Removing blooms for arrangements can encourage branching varieties to produce more flowers, while also giving you gorgeous indoor displays.

You also need to keep an eye on those flower heads that are spent, and can be snipped off. Deadheading your sunflowers will take all the energy away from the seedhead and back into the plant so that it can produce new flowers.

To make the job easy and prevent any strain on your hands or wrists, I always opt for a really good quality, clean pair of pruning snips. As a gardener and florist, I own several pairs, but am getting a lot of use from the Haus & Garten snips, available from Amazon, at the moment. I also love the red handles as they are impossible to lose in the yard!

Stake Very Tall Stems

Despite the seemingly-constant heat and dry weather, heavy rain and storms can materialize in August, and when they do it's a good idea to be prepared.

You can stake your tallest sunflowers to prevent them from falling and snapping in strong winds or heavy rain, which will come as a shock after a protracted dry spell.

Try to do this before they become too top heavy, and attach stems with the right plant ties to secure them.

An ideal type of stake would be bamboo, or these metal stake supports, from Amazon, which are very simple to add.

Leave A Few Seedheads For The Birds

American goldfinches, chickadees and other garden birds can make a sunflower patch a late-summer wildlife hotspot.

If you can, leave a few heads on your plants rather than clearing. These will develop into nutritious food for your garden birds, which will give them a boost before winter.

If birds are particularly enthusiastic, you can protect individual heads with fine mesh cover, such as these from Walmart, until the seeds are ripe, then remove it and let the birds enjoy them. Leaving the sturdy stems standing also provides useful structure in the garden as summer starts to fade.

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Don’t over-fertilize sunflowers in August. If your plants are healthy and flowering well, there’s usually little benefit in giving them a late-season boost. Too much nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, while also creating softer, more vulnerable growth. Instead, focus on consistent watering and deadheading to help extend the display.

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In August, hummingbirds get very busy in the garden. If you have hummingbird feeders expect plenty of hungry birds to gather in your yard as they stock up on essential nourishment for the gruelling migration journey that lies ahead. You can play a key role in supporting them as they prepare and encourage repeat visits during this important period.

No matter how large or small your backyard, following these simple wildlife garden ideas will create a welcoming haven for hummingbirds. With any luck many of your visitors will be returning birds, as these enchanting creatures are known to remember the gardens they've found food in previously.

Making sure your garden is planted with plenty of late-season nectar-giving flowers is key to attracting hummingbird activity in August, as it providing feeders to supplement their diet (red glass ones, such as this beautiful hummingbird feeder from Amazon, are ideal) together with plenty of fresh drinking water to help them cope with the heat. Follow these five expert tips and you may be lucky enough to still have hummingbirds in your yard as late as Halloween.

5 Ways To Help Hummingbirds In August

As summer starts to wind down find out how to attract hummingbirds to your garden in August. There's a hummingbird migration map you can follow too that includes info on spottings in your local area, and don't forget hummingbirds are overwintering on the Gulf Coast in greater numbers than in the past due to milder winters.

'April through September are the hummingbird months in the Northern Hemisphere, with May through August being the peak months of activity,' says Robert S Mulvihill, ornithologist at the National Avery.

'As females feed their young almost strictly on small insects, not on nectar, it's not uncommon for people to notice a big drop in the number of visits to their feeders in late June. But, after the young fledge and begin to become independent in July, the feeder activity will pick up again, and it will continue all the way through the fall migration, from August through September.'

The best hummingbird garden isn’t necessarily the largest one, and the following observations apply particularly in August. 'In my experience, consistency is what matters most,' says Siobhan Shaw, co-founder of Growing to Give.

'This means planting flowers that attract hummingbirds, and offering clean nectar, water, shelter, and a pesticide-free environment. Once hummingbirds discover a garden that reliably provides those things, they have every reason to return.'

You can find hummingbird nectar that is ready to use from Walmart, no diluting or mixing needed, and it has added minerals to help keep these beautiful creatures healthy.

1. Keep Natural Supplies Of Nectar Coming

Hummingbirds are attracted to yards that have food sources and a good mix of sun and shade, and they need a safe perch to sit on in between their meals, so a small tree or shrub near your feeders is always a good idea. It's also important to leave perennials blooming for longer, especially the ones hummingbirds love.

'Hummingbirds are attracted by the presence of reliable nectar sources, whether feeders, patches of red or orange garden flowers, and hummingbird-adapted wildflowers like cardinal flower and scarlet bee balm,' says Robert. Hummingbirds also love royal catchfly, the perfect native plant to provide them with a late-season source of nectar. Native honeysuckles are another good choice for hummingbirds in August.

To sustain their supercharged metabolisms, hummingbirds must eat once every 10 to 15 minutes and visit between 1,000 and 2,000 flowers per day, according to the National Audobon Society.

'So, make sure your outdoor space has lots of flowers of the type hummingbirds prefer,' says Robert. 'This is pretty much any red or orange flower having a long corolla tube, and lacking any structures that butterflies or bees could easily use as a perch.'

Another idea is these flowers to plant in August for hummingbirds that will help them on their journey south.

2. Put Feeders Back Up (If You Already Took Them Down)

If hummingbirds stopped visiting your yard in early summer you may have taken their feeders down, assuming there was no point keeping them up as the hummingbirds hadn't chosen your yard to nest in. Alternatively you may have taken them down because the young hummingbirds have moved out.

August is an important month to put the feeders back up. Migration lies ahead for hummingbirds so they need to build up their strength. The aim is to increase their body fat for the journey so they need a good supply of nectar. In addition newly fledged juveniles need to feed, and early migrants will be passing through too. So keep feeders up until October, as it's possible to get hummingbirds in your yard until late fall.

It's important to know where to place a hummingbird feeder too, even if you think you've got it nailed. It's a good idea to add several more feeders as migration gets closer, especially if you notice a dominant bird monopolizing a feeder.

'Hummingbird behavior can be aggressively territorial as birds fight over feeders,' says August Abbot, a certified avian specialist and founder of The Broken Birds Sanctuary. 'To keep the peace and make room add multiple feeders generously spaced apart and at different heights. Spacing feeders 8 or more feet apart gives birds their own feeding stations and reduces fighting.'

Keep feeders out of relentless direct heat (and avoid these other hummingbird feeder mistakes too), adds August. 'If a feeder gets too much sun, hang a sunshade over it to block the harsh mid-day heat or move it to a shadier location.'

3. Refill Feeders Regularly And Keep Them Clean

Prepare for hot August weather by making sure you refill feeders regularly, especially if you don't have a regular supply of nectar offered by red and orange flowers in the garden.

'Be sure that you fill and refill your hummingbird feeder frequently with a 4:1 solution of water to table sugar (not honey or brown sugar) that does not have red dye added. The red parts on commercial hummingbird feeders are more than enough to attract the birds, and red dyes can be harmful to them,' says Robert.

You can make up a supply of sugar water and keep it in your refrigerator for up to a week. Be sure to change the water in your feeders regularly, and clean them well between every refilling, at least every 2-3 days to prevent harmful bacteria and mold from developing. If it's very hot change the water every other day.

'Many people mix sugar and water over heat, with some thinking it needs to boil,' says August. 'Actually, it's as simple as stirring the sugar into hot water until it dissolves, which usually takes just a minute or two.'

Resist the urge to make the solution sweeter as this will make the hummingbirds thirstier, and August is such a dry month anyway. Instead try hanging a piece of fruit in a mesh bag to attract fruit flies, as insects are a major part of a hummingbird's diet too. Find out how to clean hummingbird feeders to keep these garden visitors happy.

Shop Hummingbird Feeders

4. Set Up A Mister Or Other Cooling Treat

'Water matters enormously, particularly if you live in the desert,' says Siobhan. 'Hummingbirds don’t simply use water the way larger birds do. I’ve watched them fly through a fine spray from a hose, hovering in the mist and getting their feathers wet. A gentle mister or moving water source can provide both drinking and bathing opportunities while also helping birds cope with intense heat.'

We fully recommend the Mademax solar bird bath fountain, available from Amazon. It's quick and easy to set up and turns a bird bath into an oasis for hummingbirds.

Try this Garden Hose Misting Nozzle from Amazon, which has an adjustable water spray pattern that includes delicate misting for cooling down hot birds.

Another idea is to offer shallow bird baths to bathe in as it's a great way to help hummingbirds beat the heat. When watering flowers as temperatures rise, especially if there isn’t normal rainfall, sprinkle water onto shrubs too as hummingbirds in August will enjoy sitting on the cool leaves to escape the heat.

Hummingbirds are attracted to yards that have food sources and a good mix of sun and shade, and they need a safe perch to sit on in between their meals, so a small tree or shrub near your feeders is also a good idea.

Always make sure there is a supply of fresh drinking water available too. 'Another essential need for hummingbirds is a clean water source,' says August. 'Yes, sometimes they just need a good old-fashioned drink of water or even a little bath or shower. Having a water feature or modest fountain within sight of your hummingbird feeder fulfils this need beautifully, especially during prolonged summer heat.'

5. Resist The Urge To Start Pruning The Garden

'I recommend that gardeners and landscapers resist the urge to do major pruning in August simply because summer is winding down,' says Siobhan. 'Hummingbirds may still be using shrubs and trees for shelter, and maintaining layers of vegetation gives them places to rest between feeding flights.'

Another important consideration for hummingbird migration in August is not to remove late-season flowers either. 'In our Arizona garden, penstemon, bottlebrush and salvia provide important nectar sources, and I like to keep them flowering for as long as possible,' says Siobhan.

These heat-tolerant plants can be especially valuable for hummingbirds in August, when the weather is brutally hot and natural nectar sources may be harder to find. 'I also encourage gardeners to plant for a succession of blooms so hummingbirds have something available as the seasons change.'

Discover more tips on how to care for hummingbirds in August in The Hummingbird Bible by Rowan T Wiedemann, available here from Amazon.

One final tip on how to care for hummingbirds in August: the amount of pests and predators in the garden escalates in high summer. Bees numbers rise in August and September, and they will of course be attracted to the nectar in the feeders.

Find out how to keep out ants, as well as preying mantis and spiders – all will be attracted to the feeders. Keep a close eye on them. Use easy to clean, low maintenance, ant and bee proof feeders. If racoons are a problem in your area bring the feeders in at night.

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Weddings do a remarkable job of making what is usually just a grassy lawn or porch feel like an enchanted fairytale – mostly thanks to the lighting. At one I attended recently, I found myself wondering: how on earth are little chandeliers hanging from those trees? Wires through… wood? I don’t think so.

I asked around and, to my surprise, discovered they’re an elegant Amazon hack: a $38 antique-style crystal solar chandelier that’s essentially a scaled-down version of something you’d expect sparkling overhead at the Ritz Paris. Powered by the sun, this outdoor lighting needs no wiring and, thanks to a simple S-hook, can hang pretty much anywhere – from patios and pergolas to tree branches in need of a little summertime swank.

‘Magical’ might be the only word for the sheer ease of this setup: take it out of the box, hang it somewhere sunny, and by nightfall it glows all on its own. An on-off switch? Never heard of her.

The obvious use is a garden party, but the reviews have a more colorful imagination than I do.

‘I know this solar chandelier was designed for weddings and elegant garden parties, but I decided to take a different route: the chicken coop,’ quips one reviewer, who says they wanted something that looked high-end but could actually withstand the elements. Another charges theirs in the sun during the day, hangs it inside a camping canopy after dark, then stores it in a greenhouse between trips. A one-occasion wonder, no longer.

Regular gazebo? Just one chandelier away from looking like it belongs at the Four Seasons. Tiny bistro set with no room for a table lamp? Hang one from the nearest tree branch instead. Weddings may cost an arm and a leg, and while the catered cold chicken is still a hard pass, this is one styling trick I’m stealing for every outdoor get-together from here on out.

More Solar Chandeliers We Love

Ahead, three more wire-free styles to make any backyard feel fancier.

If you didn’t think you could have the pendant lighting of your most fanciful dreams in the backyard, these darling little chandeliers feel like an answered prayer. And if you’re partial to this sort of hands-off ambience, there’s an equally charming set of entryway-worthy lanterns that require no wiring, either.

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Cosmos are at their best in August, filling flower beds and containers with a froth of daisy-like blooms in shades of white, pink, and crimson. If you grew cosmos from seed this year, August is the month when a little attention can keep plants flowering generously well into early fall.

If you want to grow cosmos, you’ll find they are relatively low-maintenance and easy to care for through the summer. There are also plenty of types of cosmos to choose from, offering different flower colors and forms for borders, containers, and cutting gardens.

Rather than fussing over them, concentrate on regular deadheading, watering when necessary, and giving tall plants a little support. These simple August tasks can help keep your plants healthy and flowering for weeks to come.

1. Keep Deadheading Cosmos

One of the most useful jobs to do with cosmos in August is deadheading – and yes, deadheading is one of those simple garden tasks that can make a noticeable difference. Once a flower has faded, snip it off just above a healthy set of leaves or a developing flower bud. A pair of fine garden snips makes this quick and precise.

For a budget-friendly option, the Felco F322 Pruning Snips are designed for precise trimming and are available from Amazon.

Deadheading prevents the plant from putting too much energy into producing seed and encourages it to keep making new flowers. It also keeps plants looking fresh, particularly in flower beds where faded blooms can quickly become noticeable. If you want cosmos to self-seed, however, you don’t need to remove every spent flower. Leave a few seedheads to mature toward the end of summer, particularly if you like the idea of cosmos returning in unexpected places next year.

Another option is the Corona ErgoCUT Dead Header, available from Lowe’s and specifically designed for removing spent flowers.

2. Water During Dry Spells

Established cosmos are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions, but container-grown plants need more regular attention. If you're learning how to water plants in a heatwave, check pots frequently during hot or dry August weather and water thoroughly when the potting mix feels dry. A watering wand, such as the Melnor 8-Pattern Soft Touch Watering Wand from The Home Depot, makes it easy to direct water around the roots without disturbing the plant.

Water at the base rather than over the foliage, ideally in the morning or evening. Cosmos are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but still benefit from a thorough drink during prolonged heat. For smaller containers, the Chapin 2-Gallon Tru-Stream Watering Can from The Home Depot is a practical option. Avoid keeping the potting mix soggy, as cosmos prefer well-drained conditions.

There’s usually no need to feed cosmos growing in the ground if they’re flowering well. Too much high-nitrogen fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so focus on consistent watering during extended dry spells.

3. Support Tall Plants

By August, some cosmos can become impressively tall, particularly if they’re growing in fertile soil. Heavy rain and summer winds can cause them to flop, so check plants regularly and add support before they fall over. The Luster Leaf Link-Ups Grow-Through Round Grid Plant Support from Target is a discreet option that helps keep stems upright, while Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon are useful for taller plants that need a little extra support.

Simple stakes, discreet plant supports, or twine can all do the job. Place supports around plants while they’re still upright, rather than trying to lift stems after they’ve collapsed. If you’re growing cosmos in a more informal, cottage-garden-style planting, a little flopping isn’t necessarily a problem. Letting stems lean into neighboring plants can create a relaxed effect, provided they aren’t smothering other flowers.

4. Cut Cosmos for the House

August is an excellent time to cut cosmos for a vase. I like to pick mine in the morning, when the stems are well hydrated and the petals have just opened. I remove the lower leaves and place the stems straight into water, then keep the vase somewhere cool and out of strong sunlight. I also change the water regularly to keep the flowers looking fresh.

For a simple arrangement, a Threshold Tall Glass Vase from Target works well for showing off long cosmos stems, while Floralife Flower Food, available on Amazon, can help extend vase life. I find that regular cutting encourages the plants to produce even more flowering stems, so I don’t hesitate to bring plenty indoors. A generous handful of cosmos makes a pretty late-summer arrangement, either on its own or mixed with other garden flowers.

5. Let Some Seedheads Develop

If you want to grow cosmos again next year, I like to leave a few flowers on the plant to go to seed toward the end of the season. Once the seedheads have dried and turned brown, collect the seeds on a dry day and store them somewhere cool and dry. I find these Glass Mason Jars from Amazon work well for keeping saved seeds dry and labeled until spring.

You can also leave a few seedheads in place and let them shed their seeds naturally. Cosmos can self-seed readily in suitable conditions, although young plants may not appear exactly where you expect them. Keep in mind that some cultivated varieties may not come true from saved seed, so the resulting plants can sometimes differ from the parent.

What Not to Do With Cosmos in August

There’s no need to cut back healthy cosmos simply because they’ve become tall. If your plants are flowering well, leave them be, apart from regular deadheading and a little support for wayward stems. August is also not the time to overfeed them. Cosmos are naturally vigorous, and overly rich soil can encourage lush foliage without giving you more blooms.

Instead, keep your August care simple: deadhead spent flowers, water during prolonged dry spells, support tall stems, and cut blooms regularly for the vase. With these few jobs taken care of, your cosmos can keep flowering well into fall, often until the first frost.

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Consistent and focused watering is crucial for the best tomato crop. The hungry plants need lots of regular moisture; otherwise, you can end up with struggling plants and disappointing fruit. If you can direct water where it is needed most, your plants will thrive, and there are solutions available to make your watering more efficient.

Poor watering causes many issues. Your tomato plants can droop, curl leaves, or drop blooms if they get too thirsty. Inconsistent or not enough moisture also leads to splitting fruits or blossom-end rot. No one wants to see any of these when growing tomatoes. To prevent this, these tomato crater root-zone watering rings, available at Amazon, can work wonders.

The easy-to-install watering rings help water reach the roots, rather than sit on the soil, run off, or evaporate, and stop weeds from popping up. And you can use them for both watering and fertilizing tomatoes. I have grown tomatoes for many years, and I think these can be a game-changer for home gardeners. Many purchasers agree and have used these root-zone watering rings for many seasons.

How a Tomato Crater Root-Zone Watering Ring Helps You Have Strong Plants

The tomato crater root-zone watering rings are super-simple to use and can be installed in seconds. Each ring has a 12-inch diameter and is made of two interlocking pieces.

You can snap them together in place when you plant tomatoes. However, due to the design, there is no reason you can’t easily install them at a later date – perfect if you don’t have them when transplanting tomato seedlings.

They are also strong and UV-resistant for use season after season. And they are suitable for more than just tomatoes. The root-zone watering rings can also be used on other hungry crops, such as peppers, cucumbers, eggplant, squash, and zucchini.

The main selling point of the tomato crater root-zone watering rings is that watering is more efficient. You can use less water, but what you do use is directed exactly where the plant needs it most. You essentially get more from less.

Ensuring your tomato plants receive plenty of regular moisture during the growing season is essential. When plants become too thirsty, they often fail to reach their peak, resulting in a disappointing tomato harvest. Problems like poor fruit production, splitting tomatoes, or blossom-end rot are typically down to inconsistent watering habits.

The tomato crater root-zone watering rings sit on the surface around the plants. You water plants by filling the ring, and that water is delivered efficiently directly to the roots through the slots in the base. The water doesn’t run off away from the plants, sit on the soil and never reach the roots, or quickly evaporate away from the top inches of the soil.

The water is directed to the root zone, and the ring keeps it locked in. You need to water less to get the same benefits. The ring also ensures liquid fertilizer (like this Espoma liquid tomato plant food at Walmart) is efficiently delivered and absorbed by the roots. Your tomato plants will be stronger and can grow more tomatoes.

Your location or setup doesn’t restrict their use. You can use the tomato crater root-zone watering rings wherever your plants are. They can be used for plants both indoors and outdoors. You can also use them if you grow tomatoes in pots or raised beds.

What Shoppers Say About It

Shoppers praise the tomato crater root-zone watering rings for being solid and long-lasting. Indeed, several reviewers have had them for many seasons. This includes one who claims to have had them for a decade and added more to their collection over the years, along with other shoppers who admit to repurchasing extra as they love the results.

‘I've used these for years. Every year I buy more,’ says one positive reviewer. ‘I use them not just for tomatoes, but also for peppers and eggplant.’

They add: ‘When I think my plants need a boost, I use Miracle-Gro, and these craters target the solution at the roots so it slowly drains into the soil. Now when I water or feed, I don't have to worry about washing the soil away from the roots.’

Another happy shopper claims that the product ‘solves almost all’ of their tomato problems, and the watering rings are ‘worth it’. They urge others: ‘Don't grow tomato plants without one of these! Works great!’

The rings are designed to help with watering, and one purchaser admits how they have made a difference to their tomato experience – with positive results.

‘I wanted to try these out since I’m not very diligent at keeping up with the weeding and watering,’ they say. ‘This helps so much that I don’t have to be so attentive. Also, because of the trickle watering system, I think my three tomato plants that have this around them seem healthier and are growing more quickly than the ones I don’t yet have one for.’

Some reviews claim they would have preferred the rings to be deeper and hold more water. Another shopper admits that the watering rings don’t work with his setup. They use drip irrigation and granular fertilizers, and admit they ‘would make a difference’ if he hand-watered plants and used water-soluble fertilizers.

It is worth considering whether your methods are suitable for the tomato crater root-zone watering rings. If you prefer to use granular feeds (like this tomato and vegetable granular plant food at Burpee) through the summer and don’t want to water plants manually, they may not prove practical.

What to Shop

Late summer is a pivotal time for tomato plants. They will have expended lots of energy to grow tall stems and develop early flowers and fruits – it takes a toll on them.

If you need to revive tired tomato plants in late summer, it is crucial to continue watering deeply and fertilizing them with tomato feed or homemade tomato fertilizer every week or two. You also need to pick ripe tomatoes regularly, as leaving them on the plant diverts energy from the development of younger fruits.

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Relentless summer heat and drought can really take it out of roses. It can leave you with wilted, drooping blooms and scorched foliage. But, with a little TLC you can nurture your roses back to good health and revive them once again.

Growing roses requires some particular care when hot temperatures arrive in summer. Although some types like Knock Out Roses (which you can find at Plant Addicts) are much more tolerant, many roses don't do well in prolonged dry, hot conditions. If yours look tired after a long summer, focus on watering, mulching, and providing some afternoon shade – soon, they'll bounce back.

The most important thing is to not to stress your rose further by making some common mistakes, especially around pruning and fertilizing. Here, we talk through how to successfully revive roses after a heatwave.

1. Water Deeply

When a heatwave hits, soil dries out quickly. For roses which prefer consistent moisture, this can cause dehydration.

'Stressed roses can be encouraged back to healthy growth by thoroughly hydrating them,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'It's important to soak the root ball by giving roses a deep watering – providing just a slight sprinkling of water simply won’t suffice. You should ideally give them at least five liters of water each time after a heatwave, and continue to water deeply every few days until the temperatures return to normal,' Drew advises.

'Where you can, water in the morning so the roses have hours to take the moisture in before the temperatures rise. Roses in containers will need more regular watering, potentially daily,' he continues.

When watering roses, aim at the base of the plant to avoid splashing on the foliage, which can cause rose diseases to spread like black spot and powdery mildew.

'In extreme cases, you can place the whole container into a large bucket of water. If you are using a watering can or garden hose, give the plant enough moisture that the water starts draining out of the holes at the base of the pot,' Drew adds.

'Keep checking the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, either with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon), and if it feels dry, water the rose.'

2. Add Mulch

The next step is to ensure your rose doesn't lose moisture too quickly, especially if temperatures are still high. One of the best ways to do this is by mulching.

You want to put down 2-3" of compost, bark chip, or something like this Lowe's brown mulch around the base of your rose. Though, you should avoid putting it right up against the rose's base, as it can cause rot.

This will help lock in moisture, keeping roots hydrated. It will also help regulate soil temperature to reduce heat stress.

There are lots of other types of mulch to choose from, many of which you can source from your own garden for free.

3. Avoid Pruning

When your rose is already showing signs of stress, it's best not to prune your rose heavily. As tempting as it is to remove the unsightly scorched and discolored leaves, trimming your plant now could cause it more harm.

In fact, if another heatwave is forecast in the next few weeks, hold off on removing any foliage. Partially scorched leaves can provide shade and shield healthy foliage from the sun.

If you do want to do a bit of tidying, focus on removing the fully brown, damaged stems, leaves, and blooms. You should use clean and sharp pruning snips (like these Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon) to do this.

Take care to wear thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) to protect your arms when tending to roses.

4. Shield It From Sun

If there's one thing your rose doesn't need after being stressed by the sun, it's even more intense sun and heat. For this reason, it's important to shield it during the hottest part of the day in the early afternoon.

If you're growing your rose in a pot, you can move it to a shadier spot.. Avoid a heat-reflecting wall and scorching pavers, as this can have the opposite effect and trap heat around your rose.

For ground-planted roses, consider installing a shade cloth (like this from Amazon) or even an umbrella to provide temporary garden shade.

5. Don't Fertilize

While there is an opportunity to fertilize roses mid-summer after the first flush of blooms, it's best to hold off in a heatwave and while your plant is recovering.

When the soil is hot and dry, a build-up of salt from the fertilizer can cause root burn and weaken your rose even more.

Not only this, but giving your rose a boost of essential plant nutrients can encourage new leafy growth that is susceptible to heat and drought stress.

Instead, focus on watering your rose deeply to rehydrate it. You could even use these self-watering terracotta spikes on Amazon to provide more consistent moisture.

What to Shop

It's never too early to start planning for winterizing your roses. Just like extreme heat, extreme frost can also wipe out your roses. You may want to invest in a frost cloth (like this from Amazon), for example.

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You may think it's an inevitable slow decline after summer-flowering perennials peak in midsummer. However, when you cut back perennials in August, you can encourage a vibrant second flush of blooms to enjoy.

The likes of hardy geraniums, nepeta, delphinium, astrantia, and lady’s mantle can be coaxed into bonus fall flowers by being cut back in late summer. At a time when even the best perennials can start to look faded and tired, don’t just deadhead but cut the plants back hard. It may feel counterintuitive, but the rewards are worth it.

You need to know when to cut back perennials in August, and also appreciate that not all plants will respond well to this treatment. Here, we look at perennials to cut back in August that you can encourage into a second flush, and those to keep the pruning tools (like these Felco F2 pruners on Amazon that are great for trimming perennials) away from this month.

Hardy Geraniums

Anyone who grows hardy geraniums knows how rampant they are. They are fast-growing and long-flowering perennials that develop into large clumps during the summer.

By August, they can start looking tired and collapse. But you can keep geraniums blooming for longer by cutting the clump back this month. Use a pair of sharp pruning shears or hedge shears and cut the plant right back to a few inches above the soil.

Remove the debris, give the plant a deep watering, and feed it with a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as this 10-10-10 plant food from Walmart, which contains seaweed extract.

It might look harsh, but new growth will quickly appear, and you’ll get a new flush of blooms in little time.

Nepeta

Nepeta, or catmint, is a low-maintenance perennial that fills any space with aromatic grey-green leaves and trumpet-shaped lilac blooms. It works perfectly near the front of flower beds, and you can also grow catmint in pots if you garden in smaller spaces.

When you grow catmint, it can provide long interest. With the right care, this can stretch right into fall. Come August, it can appear a bit straggly, and the stems often start flopping over other plants, lawns, or garden paths.

If you prune catmint back this month to above the first leaf, it will tidy it up, encourage new growth, and provide another round of flowers for you to enjoy.

This trim may take five minutes with a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears. These Fiskars 23-inch hedge shears at The Home Depot are ideal. They have sharp steel blades and soft grip handles for comfortable trimming.

Astrantia

Astrantia produces delicate, papery, pincushion flowers that sit atop slender stems. They come in shades of pink, red, or green-white and have a long flowering season. Indeed, with the right trimming, astrantias are one of an elite group of plants that flower twice or more.

Gardeners growing these cottage garden plants can extend the blooms with regular deadheading. If the plant starts to look tatty in late summer, you can cut it back by half to get a new flush of growth and pollinator-friendly flowers that extend the show well into fall.

Astrantias prefer soil types that keep their roots moist. They can be grown in drier sites, but will need regular watering in hot weather to prevent the leaves from going crispy and ruining any chances of a new set of flowers.

A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, can be an essential gardening tool to help you judge when to water your garden plants.

Lady’s Mantle

Lady’s mantle, or Alchemilla mollis, is grown predominantly for its soft, scalloped, mid-green foliage. However, don’t overlook its blooms. It produces frothy star-shaped lime-green flowers starting in late spring or early summer.

However, come August, the plant can look untidy with flopping stems and browning foliage. It is a perennial to cut back for fall flowers and this month is an ideal time to do it. When you grow lady’s mantle, you can cut the plant back to the base, and it will sprout new growth within weeks.

Another reason to cut back lady’s mantle after the first flush of flowers goes over is that it stops the plant from self-seeding. If you don’t want lots of new plants sprouting, head out this month and give it a trim.

Delphinium

Delphiniums put on a towering display of blooms in summer. In reality, the season is short and come August, the spikes can look worse for wear. The best solution for this is to cut back delphiniums, pruning the flower spikes right back to the ground.

Cutting off the blooms after delphiniums finish flowering stops the plants looking tatty in borders. It might seem cruel, but the plants can respond with a second flush of flowers.

No matter what types of delphiniums you are growing, trim them, fertilize them, and water them this month. You should hopefully get another round of, albeit slightly smaller, flowers to enjoy in early fall.

If you care for delphiniums, use sharp pruning tools and cut the stalks to two inches from the ground.

Shop Pruning Tools

Perennials to Not Cut Back in August

• Peonies - When you grow peonies, they should be cut back in the fall. It is not recommended to cut back peonies in August, as the plants are still photosynthesizing and storing energy for next year’s growth. If you prune peonies now, next year’s display can be badly damaged.
• Asters - Asters are a great plant for fall color. They come to the fore in August and can bloom right through until October. It comes as no surprise to anyone growing asters that the advice is not to cut them back. You can cut back asters in the fall or spring, depending on whether you want to leave the plant for wildlife over winter. As many aster varieties can be a reliable food source for birds over the colder months, and the old growth insulates the plant against winter freezes, I would always opt to cut them back in spring.
• Japanese Anemones - Japanese anemones are another perennial routinely grown for showy performance from August to October. They offer color and interest at a time when summer perennials die down and are adored by many pollinators. However, they do spread through underground rhizomes, so many gardeners use a root barrier (such as this root barrier at Amazon) to keep them contained and prevent them from becoming invasive perennials. If you do grow Japanese anemone, cut them back in late fall or early spring. Don’t do it now or you’ll miss out on their blooms.
• Sedum - When you grow sedum, or Hylotelephium as they are now known, their flowers are rich in late summer and early fall. They are great plants for pollinators in fall, and will attract bees and butterflies in droves. If you cut them back this month, you are missing out on flowers and unnecessarily removing a vital seasonal food source for pollinators in your garden. Your best bet is to cut back sedum in spring, as the dried stems and heads can provide glorious interest and structure in a winter garden.
• Joe Pye Weed - Joe Pye weed, or eupatorium, is covered in nectar-rich flowers in late summer. These tall blooms provide food to several types of bees and many different butterflies. As late summer can be a period when nectar is scarce – it is a gap where summer flowerers have ended and the fall ones are just beginning – you want to retain Joe Pye weed blooms for pollinators. Other perennials that offer pollinators lots of nectar during this gap include black-eyed Susan and coneflowers. These are also plants you don’t want to cut back. You can deadhead them, but don’t prune them completely.

August is a busy month in the garden. While there are lots of maintenance tasks to do – watering, feeding, cutting back – there are also opportunities to take plant cuttings and get new plants for your garden for free. Our guide to plants to propagate in August reveals seven shrubs you can take semi-ripe cuttings from this month.

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Delphiniums dazzle in full bloom, their statuesque flower spikes reaching for the skies like fireworks above flower beds. By August, the first flowers are usually going over, and the plants look far from their best. You can revive tired delphiniums quickly and easily to get a second flush of flowers in late summer or early fall.

To get delphiniums back in shape, gardeners should prune, water, feed, and treat any fungal issues. This TLC provides essential moisture and nutrients, and the plant uses them to produce new flower spikes to enjoy.

If you care for delphinium plants, don’t just cut them down if they look like a shadow of their former selves. It doesn’t take much time or effort to cut back spikes, water them deeply, and give them a dose of fertilizer (such as this balanced liquid feed from Walmart) to put them back on the road to glory. The effort is more than worth it when you see another colorful bloom appearing.

1. Cut Spent Flower Spikes

Delphiniums usually flower for 4-6 weeks in June and July, but this will change depending on your location and climate. After delphiniums finish flowering, the best course of action is to remove the spent spikes.

If left, the bloom will drop its petals and begin forming seeds. This siphons energy from the rest of the plant. When you cut back delphiniums, that energy is redirected into new growth, resulting in a second flush of flowers. It gives the delphinium a second lease of life.

However, it must be said that this does not work with all types of delphiniums. Most perennial delphiniums can give a second flush, but annual and biennial types won’t rebloom.

To cut back the stems, use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools and cut the spike all the way back to where it meets the base of the plant.

You don’t need to break the bank on expensive tools for this. For example, these budget-friendly Fiskars pruning shears from Walmart will be ideal for trimming back perennials, plus many other pruning tasks around the garden.

2. Remove Yellow Foliage

To keep your delphinium looking tidy, attractive, and healthy, it is also advisable to remove any yellow or dying foliage from the plant. Yellow or decaying leaves are not just unsightly, but attract pests including aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, slugs, and snails.

It may take just five minutes to snip away yellowing leaves. As long as you leave lots of healthy foliage for photosynthesis, the plants won’t miss the ones you remove. Your delphiniums will look green and tidy, benefit from better airflow, which helps against fungal issues, and be less attractive to unwanted pests.

Aphids are classic delphinium pests often seen on new foliage and flower spikes. To get rid of aphids, you can spray them with insecticidal soap, sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the plants (you can get diatomaceous earth on Amazon), or use companion planting to attract natural predators like ladybugs or hoverflies.

Herbs like dill, parsley, and cilantro are fantastic plants that attract ladybugs. You can get all three and more in this variety of 10 herb seed packets at Amazon.

3. Water Deeply

Delphiniums are thirsty plants. Given a choice, they’d pick consistently moist soil every day over drought and dry conditions. If the soil does dry out during periods of heat, delphiniums usually react by wilting or fading earlier than usual.

To prevent your plants from getting stressed and looking tired, try to keep the soil consistently moist in the summer. This also gives you the best chance of your delphiniums reblooming.

The best approach is to water them deeply, so the water soaks into the ground and reaches the roots. Don’t just sprinkle a little bit when watering plants in hot weather, as it can be lost to evaporation before the plants even get to enjoy it.

Water deeply and direct it to the base of the plants. And water the garden in the morning if you can, as it gives the plants time to take in the goodness before the temperatures rise.

Drip irrigation or soaker hoses can be used in the summer to provide a slow, steady stream of water to plants in flower beds. They are an efficient tool to deliver water to the roots, where plants need it most. You can get a 50-foot soaker hose at The Home Depot that uses up to 70% less water than a sprinkler.

Mulching around the base of delphiniums will retain soil moisture to reduce watering, protect the roots from extreme heat, and smother weeds around the plant.

4. Feed to Encourage New Growth

After cutting back perennials to encourage a new flush of fall flowers, fertilizing plants gives your delphiniums the best shot of producing another flower spike this year. Growing these skyscraper blooms takes a lot of energy, and a dose of essential plant nutrients after trimming the old spikes down will be welcomed.

The best feed at this stage is a liquid balanced fertilizer. This is a fast-acting fertilizer that releases those nutrients quickly to the plant – and speed is of the essence here. This all-purpose water-soluble plant food on Amazon has an NPK of 20-20-20 and contains beneficial kelp.

A balanced product is best, or you can use one higher in phosphorus and potassium, which promote bud and bloom development, like this Miracle-Gro liquid bloom booster, also at Amazon.

Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer, as it will encourage just lush foliage growth; you will ruin any chances of getting a second flush of flowers.

5. Check for Mildew

Delphiniums are highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Drought-stressed delphiniums are annually prone to the fungal disease, while wet leaves due to overhead watering are also a classic cause.

Powdery mildew starts as white spots or patches on leaves, which can spread and make entire leaves look as if they are dusted with a white substance. This usually starts low down on the plant, but the issue can spread quickly if left untreated.

Remove affected leaves to prevent the spread and take steps to get rid of powdery mildew. A common step is to spray plants with a copper fungicide (available at Amazon); however, such sprays can impact other wildlife in your garden,

There are other DIY options. This includes mixing potassium bicarbonate with dish soap and water to spray onto plants, or making a milk spray to stop powdery mildew.

What to Shop

Delphiniums are always plants to stake. The tallest varieties can reach six feet, but even medium-sized plants commonly get to four feet. Even though the second flush of flowers may be smaller, they will still be tall enough to need supports.

It may be time to check your supports, or get new ones in place. I usually just use bamboo canes and twine to support my delphiniums. You can get a pack of natural six-foot bamboo stakes at The Home Depot for this.

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Keeping your raised beds hydrated during scorching summers can be a challenge. The soil heats up and dries quickly and it can feel near-impossible to stop plants wilting. That's where my latest find comes in: raised beds with integrated irrigation.

Deep watering is really the best method to keep plants happy in hot weather, but it can be time-consuming with a 20-30 minute drench being optimal for many plants. The Garden In Minutes All-In-One Raised Garden Bundles make this much more convenient, with an integrated irrigation grid that provides a thorough soaking for little effort. It means you don't have to worry about manually watering your raised beds and it even reduces waste by delivering water directly to plant roots.

Really, this is one of the smartest designs I've seen for futureproofing your raised beds. 'The plants seem to love the garden grid watering system and this is the happiest I've seen [my] plants after transplanting,' one five-star reviewer writes. Even better, the bundles are currently discounted, so now is the time to invest in this upgrade for less worrisome summers going forward.

The Challenge of Raised Beds in Summer

Raised beds are already tricky when it comes to watering because the plants are elevated above the ground and drain quickly.

This means you may find yourself watering a lot during summer to avoid heat stress. However, watering little and often is not the best method, as this encourages shallow roots. Deeply soaking your raised beds encourages plant roots to seek moisture further down, making them stronger and a little more drought-tolerant.

However, in order to deeply water plants correctly you need to dedicate a lot of your time. Without an irrigation system (like this drip irrigation kit on Amazon), this can be labor-intensive, tiring, and – when using a leaky garden hose – wasteful.

That's where the Garden In Minutes All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle comes in, thoroughly watering plant roots via an irrigation grid that covers the entire surface.

As a drip irrigation system, it reduces water waste by delivering water straight to plant roots, and when watering plants in hot weather, avoids splashing foliage and causing leaf scorch.

Why Shoppers Love It

The Garden In Minutes All-In-One Raised Garden Bundles are popular because they're designed to suit any space, with multiple sizes available and a modular design to connect multiple beds with one watering system.

'Just assembled this and it was very straightforward and simple to do,' one shopper writes.

The Garden In Minutes Garden Grid Watering System comes already assembled to easily slot into the raised bed for instant use.

'This is absolutely the best system around. The planters go together easily, they look great, and the square corners of the planters do not waste [space],' one reviewer describes.

Another bonus of the watering grids is they can be used for square foot gardening, making it easy to space plants effectively.

'This is hands-down, the easiest way to garden and water your plants at the same time. [You] don’t have to worry about carrying [a] hose around from raised bed to raised bed,' another shopper writes.

'My garden has grown quickly thanks to the watering grid keeping everything consistently watered,' another person shares.

'The water grid is smartly constructed and it was easy to connect to my backyard hose,' another adds.

As for the raised beds themselves, they are bottomless for good drainage and are constructed of a thicker steel with an aluzinc-magnesium coating that is more durable than galvanized steel beds.

The beds are also available at either 17" and 32" tall, so you can choose a height that works for you.

'The height is just right for saving the back. No more kneeling on the ground to plant, weed or harvest,' one five-star reviewer writes.

It's hard to find a downside to the Garden In Minutes All-In-One Raised Garden Bundle as its genius design is sure to keep raised beds hydrated while also saving you time, effort, and reducing water waste in the yard. Plus, shoppers are pleased with the high quality and sleek appearance of the beds.

Perhaps the only thing to note is this is an investment for the garden, with the bundles starting at $255. Nevertheless, it will last many years of gardening and make watering plants in hot weather much less effort.

Not to mention, the current sale marks starting prices down to $191.25 which is a deal too good to miss out on.

What to Shop

When working through your summer gardening checklist, don't forget to make a note of which plants need more water during a heatwave. Something like the Garden In Minutes watering grids can help ensure these vulnerable plants are looked after.

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Arguably, the bathroom is the best place for plants in your home – especially tropical, moisture-loving plants that will happily soak up the humidity from the shower. Not only do they thrive here, but elegant vines cascading from a shelf, or even placed in your shower, can make a bathroom feel purified, fresh, and elevated.

The only issue is you can't place all plants in this part of the home. Bathroom plants are those that cope well with humid conditions and, often, limited light. The likes of asparagus fern (like this from Plant Addicts) and moth orchid (like this from Walmart) thrive here in particular. And as for bathrooms without windows, you can still brighten up the space with some faux greenery, like this faux ferns from Wayfair.

There are lots of ways to style bathroom plants, too. You could have ferns mounted on the wall with these fern mounts from Amazon, or in a bigger bathroom use this tiered bamboo plant stand from Wayfair to create an impactful display.

However you envision your bathroom jungle looking, there are gorgeous plants of all shapes and sizes to choose from. Here, we've compiled our top 16 picks of beautiful bathroom plants to shop.

Even if your bathroom has one small window with limited daylight, there are plenty of indoor low light plants to choose from. You can also use a grow light (we like this one with a timer from Amazon) to give your plants a boost.

Take care to provide good ventilation for your bathroom plants, as the excess moisture can create an environment for mold on soil and even powdery mildew.

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Riviera this, Riviera that. If you’re anything like me, your feeds have been inundated with fabulous people summering on the world’s most fabulous coastline. It’s a stylish scene – not just because of the spritzes or superyachts, but because of the little unmistakably South of France design details mingled throughout its many beach clubs.

I just found one of them hiding in Anthropologie’s sale section: the Lillie Outdoor Bar Table. The lower shelf comfortably fits an extra-tall bottle of Clase, the upper one your outdoor glassware, but what really caught my eye were its coastal cues: a playful steel silhouette, a wash of powder-blue, and an unfussy tiled top. Because if there’s anything we've learned from the French, it’s that there's nothing less chic than trying too hard.

At just under four feet wide, you don’t need a sprawling terrace to make a splash. Even if the rest of your outdoor entertaining setup is relatively simple, this sinuously detailed steel design immediately becomes the focal point. A small-backyard hero piece, if I’ve ever seen one.

I also appreciate the generous overhang, a seemingly unimportant detail that makes all the difference. This way, you can actually pull up a few stools and let it behave like a proper bar, rather than somewhere to simply park the bottles.

It might be late summer, but I don't think this is where the story ends. I’d absolutely move this 'outdoor' bar into a sunroom, living room, or even a generous hallway. It’s just too good to spend nine months in storage.

Anthropologie's Outdoor Lillie Collection

Did I mention beautiful DNA runs in the family? The bar table belongs to Anthropologie’s broader Lillie collection, and I’ve wanted every last piece since it debuted.

How I'd Style It

Late summer is, in my opinion, the chicest time to host. Here’s how I’d style the Lillie collection for a Riviera-coded reverie.

Your backyard should feel like an escape. Whether that’s somewhere in the South of France, South America, or otherwise, we’ve rounded up the resort-style outdoor furniture and decor to take you there.

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Spending time outside in the garden, is in itself, calming for many of us. However, it's possible to take this concept even further by planting certain species that specifically imbue a sense of tranquillity.

Particular plants can contribute to a sense of calm and ease more readily than others. Whether through muted color palettes, subtle scents, delicate textures or soothing movements, plants can influence our mood.

This means it's entirely possible to create a sensory space to destress and decompress in your own backyard. Discover the plant species experts recommend to create a tranquil garden. A water feature like this tiered fountain from Lowe's would add a charming touch, too.

1. Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris)

The pale tones and frothy flowerheads of most hydrangeas are pleasing to see in any garden. However, Hydrangea petiolaris is a climbing variety, so its a wonderful plant for softening hard edged fences and walls or enveloping seating areas to create pockets of restful seclusion.

'I’m obsessed with this vine - the deep green foliage and lacy white flowers have a quiet elegance, but what I love most is the sense of maturity climbing Hydrangea brings to a space,' says landscape designer, Kat Aul Cervoni, founder, Staghorn Living.

'Once it begins covering a wall, fence, or trellis, it gives the garden a grounding sense of place, almost as though it has always been there.

'I like to use it to soften a large vertical surface or enclose a seating area, where the layered foliage can create intimacy and make the garden feel sheltered and settled.'

This climbing Hydrangea from Plant Addicts would suit growing zones 4-8 and has a mature height and spread of 50-60', however can be kept smaller with pruning.

2. Fountain Grass (Pennisetum ‘Karley Rose’)

With their tall feathery plumes and gentle hypnotic movement swaying in a breeze, ornamental grasses are popular plants for soothing spaces. There are plenty of varieties to choose, however, one of Kat's preferred options is Pennisetum 'Karley Rose'.

'I adore this ornamental grass for the way it moves and the way its soft foliage and mauve-pink seed heads catch the light beautifully,' says Kat.

'To create a tranquil effect, I would plant Pennisetum in repeated drifts near a seating area or along a path, where even the slightest breeze brings the planting to life without making the space feel busy.'

This Pennisetum Karley Rose Fountain Grass from Plant Addicts is one of the hardiest ornamental grasses for cold winter regions (5-9) and one of the earliest to bloom.

3. Rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus)

Aromatic herbs, with their long history of healing and medicinal properties, are a versatile inclusion when planting a sensory space.

Wellbeing Garden Designer, Amy Wagenfeld works with landscapers to create sensory gardens, which can be either soothing or stimulating. A fragrant favorite for Amy is Rosemary, which has a calming yet gently uplifting effect when inhaled.

'Rosemary’s stiff and somewhat sticky leaves offer an interesting tactile experience when rubbed,' says Amy. 'The highly aromatic oils that are released when rubbing the leaves can lead to a sense of peace and calm as the scent is slowly and quietly inhaled.

'Beyond its sensory qualities, herbal lore tells us that rosemary is useful to support memory and clear the mind. Plant a rosemary in a garden bed or container and take a moment to enjoy its fragrance.'

This Blue Cascade Rosemary from Nature Hills has a trailing habit, silvery-green foliage and will bloom with pretty blue flowers.

Amy goes on to explain that some sensory gardens will be places that have a muted color palette, and are quiet, and cozy, while others might be more activated and vibrant.

'The appeal is that it can be the space in someone’s life where they can go to and feel grounded and connected with themselves and the world around them.'

4. Baby Bunny Bellies (Tradescantia chrysophylla)

Soothing the senses and calming the mind isn't just about sight, sound and scent. Touch and texture are important elements too. For this reason, Amy loves to use Tradescantia in her garden designs.

This silvery greyish plant has hints of pink on its 'furry' leaves, so its muted color palette makes it as comforting to observe, as it is to touch.

'Baby Bunny Bellies, like its namesake, could well have the softest leaves you have ever touched,' says Amy. 'Simply stroking its downy leaves is calming and relaxing.'

'It's a trailing plant that is easy to grow and share cuttings with others. Baby Bunny Bellies are a lovely addition to a container garden or a hanging planter, and grow well indoors too in soil or a vase of water.'

A tall container like this Delray planter from Plant Addicts would suit a trailing Tradescantia.

5. Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)

Fragrance is one of the strongest sensory triggers tied to memory and emotion, and star jasmine offers one of the most calming scents in the garden, without being overpowering.

Landscape architect, Adam Sexton likes to position Star Jasmine near seating areas, garden gates, or along pathways where people naturally pause.

'Its glossy evergreen foliage provides year-round structure, while the delicate white blooms release fragrance in late spring and early summer, rewarding visitors as they move through the space,' says Adam.

'In sensory gardens especially, scent creates an immersive experience that encourages mindfulness and helps people become more present.'

Depending where you live, August to October is usually the best time to prune star jasmine to improve its flowers and fragrance next year.

This Star Jasmine from Nature Hill's is highly fragrant and would thrive in zones 7-11.

6. Lamb's Ear (Stachys byzantina)

Just as a room decorated in muted tones is more relaxing to be in than one that's filled with bold, bright or busy hues, so it is outside in the garden. Plants with silver foliage, such as Lamb's Ear introduce visual calm by reflecting light and softening contrasts within the landscape.

'From a landscape architect’s perspective, the most calming gardens aren’t necessarily the most colorful; they’re the ones that engage the senses gently and intentionally,' says Adam. 'Layering movement, fragrance, texture, and restrained color creates spaces that encourage people to slow down and linger.'

Muted tones act like a neutral backdrop, allowing the eye to rest rather than constantly shifting between bold colors. 'Many silver-leaved plants like Lamb's Ear also have tactile qualities or subtle fragrance that deepen the sensory experience,' continues Adam.

'Lamb’s Ear invites touch with its velvety leaves, while lavender combines silvery foliage with soothing scent and pollinator value. I frequently incorporate these species to balance more vibrant planting compositions and create gardens that feel timeless, cohesive, and restorative.'

This Helene von Stein Lambs Ear from Nature Hills has larger leaves than regular varieties for maximum tactility.

7. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

There are numerous ornamental grasses that would make an attractive option for a tranquil garden. A north American native that offers structure and elegance with its beautiful arching blades and deep wine hue is Switchgrass.

'Ornamental grasses, such as Switchgrass, are one of the most effective plants for creating a sense of tranquillity because they bring constant, subtle movement to the landscape,' says Adam.

'Even the lightest breeze animates their foliage, creating a soft rustling sound that naturally draws attention away from everyday distractions.

'Rather than demanding attention with bold flowers, grasses contribute rhythm and texture throughout the seasons, making a garden feel alive without feeling busy.

'I often use Switchgrass, as well as Feather Reed Grass or Mexican Feather Grass, as connective tissue throughout a design to soften architecture and create moments of quiet reflection.'

The Prairie Winds Cheyenne Red Switchgrass from Nature Hill's grows to 2-3' tall and turns deep wine red in fall.

What to Shop

Creating a tranquil or sensory gardens that's right for you will also depend on the climate where you live. Whether you opt for a muted palette, subtle scents, tactile textures, gentle movement or a soothing mixture, it can help to choose plants native to your region, as these will largely look after themselves.

'The most fundamental principle of sensory garden design is to reflect on what you want and need in a garden to make it work well for you,' says Amy. 'Ideally it's a space where you experience a sense of balance and calm when you are in it, and hopefully for a long time afterwards.'

Summer is a glorious yet challenging time in the indoor garden, as our houseplants enjoy a growth spurt while battling pests that can quickly destroy them. One of the most common to find in August are spider mites, which form fine webs over plants, feed on their leaves, and significantly weaken them.

The reason so many of us have the challenge of getting rid of spider mites on houseplants this month is because these sap-sucking insects thrive in summer conditions. Dry air and dehydrated plants are what spider mites seek and they multiply quickly in this environment. The problem is spider mites can be easy to miss because they're tiny.

That's why it's so important to monitor your plants for any signs of mites, keep them hydrated, and clean their leaves regularly through summer. Even using this plant mister from Amazon daily can help keep plant leaves clean pest-free. Here, I explain more about why these little red insects are taking over your houseplants in August and what to do about them.

Spider Mites in August

Spider mites are one of the most common houseplant pests to spot in August for one reason: they love the summer heat.

With humidity low and temperatures high, spider mites thrive in our homes during the summer months. It's when their natural predators are less active and plants are more susceptible to heat-stress, which these mites target to feed on.

This means underwatered houseplants next to open sunny windows are most at risk of attracting spider mites in summer (I always use a soil moisture meter, like this from Amazon, to monitor my plants' soil and water correctly).

The warmer conditions also result in fast reproduction, so spider mite populations an multiply fast and spread to more plants in your houseplant collection.

If you don't catch a spider mite infestation quickly, it can result in leaf drop, discoloration, and stunted growth, as plants become significantly weak from the damage.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to deter and get rid of them.

How to Get Rid of Them

To avoid spider mites on houseplants in August, I always do a few things to make my indoor garden less appealing to them.

This includes moving houseplants away from scorching sunny windows, especially the windows I have constantly open in summer as this offers a direct access point for pests.

This will also help prevent leaf scorch on your most sensitive houseplants. Alternatively, you can use these sheer curtains from Wayfair to diffuse the sunlight and protect foliage from damage.

I also clean my houseplant leaves weekly during summer. You can use these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon to gently wipe the surface and remove any dust. This is a good opportunity to observe foliage and look out for pests, especially on the underside of leaves where they often hide.

You can also increase humidity for indoor plants to deter spider mites. As well as misting your plant, an effective solution is placing your plant on a pebble humidity tray (from Amazon) or even installing a humidifier (like this portable one from Walmart).

If you do spot any spider mites on your houseplants, it's important to isolate them from other plants to stop spreading. Cut off any heavily-infested foliage (using clean and sharp houseplant snips from Amazon) and then shower your plant to wash away the majority of the mites.

When I've dealt with these destructive insects before, I've found individually wiping each leaf is super effective. You can use water on a microfiber cloth, insecticidal soap (like this from Amazon), or even organic neem oil (like this spray from Walmart).

What to Shop

Not checking for pests is just one summer houseplant care mistake to watch out for. You should also take care to adjust watering frequency during hot spells and avoid overfertilizing your plants, which can burn roots.

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August is the month to fertilize roses, dahlias, flowering containers, tomatoes, peppers, and any plant still actively making flowers or fruit. Use a diluted liquid feed or low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer after watering, but stop feeding shrubs, trees, and perennials that are slowing down for fall - late, soft growth is no favor before winter.

The goal is not to turn the back yard into a botanical boot camp. It is simply to support the plants still working their little socks off during the hottest, hungriest stretch of the season.

While you decide what to feed, there is also plenty of ideas for what to plant in August for a productive fall garden. I would always recommend starting with a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as the TPS 10-10-10 available from Amazon, which is easy and quick to apply.

Start With The Plants Still Putting On A Show

The best rule for plants to fertilize in August is beautifully simple: feed what is actively flowering or fruiting, and leave anything beginning to slow down alone. A plant producing blooms, tomatoes, or peppers is using an astonishing amount of energy. An organic vegetable and tomato fertilizer from Walmart is ideal for this. It may look composed from a distance, but at root level it is the horticultural equivalent of a chef during Saturday-night service.

I always take a slow lap of the garden before mixing a feed. Look for fresh buds, new flowers, swelling fruit, and container plants that are drinking quickly. Those are your customers. Woody shrubs whose leaves are fading, tired perennials going to seed, and trees beginning their seasonal retreat should be allowed a dignified exit.

There is a useful difference between feeding and rescuing. Fertilizer cannot cure drought stress, root rot, pest damage, or a pot that has become the consistency of a brick. Water first, assess second, then feed only if the plant is genuinely still growing. This is especially important during a heatwave, when roots may struggle to take up nutrients from dry soil.

If you are tidying as you go, these plants to deadhead in August will reward you with fresh blooms to justify the effort.

Keep Container Plants Going Strong

A flourishing container is a miracle of optimism: a small amount of compost, a very large plant, and a gardener hoping nobody notices how frequently it needs a drink. By August, potting mix has been watered repeatedly and its available nutrients are often seriously depleted.

Flowering annuals such as petunias Petunia, calibrachoa, geraniums, and fuchsias benefit from a weekly or every-other-week liquid flowering fertilizer, applied at the label rate to already-moist soil. A low-nitrogen formula with more phosphorus and potassium is preferable now; you want flowers, not a spectacular new crop of leaves.

I favor a watering can rather than a hose-end dose for pots, because it makes me slow down and notice what is actually happening. This 2.6 gallon watering can from Lowe’s is a useful size for a patio collection and makes mixing liquid feed less of a circus act.

Remove exhausted flowers as you feed. It is not vanity; it redirects the plant’s energy toward new buds rather than seed production. For more inspiration on reviving an exhausted display, these summer container flowers make excellent late-season companions.

Give Roses A Final Flowering Push

Repeat-flowering roses are among the most deserving recipients of an August feed, particularly in temperate Zones 5–8 where they may still offer a generous flush into early fall. After deadheading, give established, well-watered plants a modest dose of rose fertilizer or a liquid tomato feed high in potassium.

The word modest matters. August is not the moment to heap on nitrogen and demand a forest of tender shoots that frost will later dispatch with cold efficiency. You are encouraging flowers and supporting healthy foliage, not commissioning a rose to audition for a hedge.

For gardeners who prefer a granular option, Burpee Natural Organic Rose + Bloom Plant Food offers both an initial and slower-release feed. Follow the package directions precisely; fertilizer labels are not suggestions, however much one may be feeling generous.

Container roses need particular attention, as their roots cannot roam off in search of supper. Our guide to growing roses in pots explains why a regular summer feed is so valuable for plentiful blooms.

Feed Dahlias, But Do Not Overdo It

Dahlias have no interest in moderation. Once they are blooming, they will keep producing lavish flowers with the determination of a theater star refusing to leave the stage. In August, feed them every two weeks with a liquid fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in potassium, especially if you are cutting flowers or deadheading regularly.

A liquid tomato fertilizer is a sound, practical choice. Espoma Organic Tomato-Tone from Amazon is formulated for flowering and fruiting plants, and it is easy to dilute in a watering can. Apply it to damp soil around the root zone, never to a bone-dry plant that is wilting theatrically in full sun.

Do not feed newly stressed or diseased dahlias until the underlying problem is corrected. And resist the urge to increase the dose in the hope of producing flowers the size of dinner plates. That way lies lush foliage, soft growth, and regret.

Alongside feeding, regular cutting is essential. Our guide on how to fertilize dahlias has more detail on choosing the right ratio, while these August dahlia jobs will keep the display running until frost.

Encourage Tomatoes, Peppers, And Fruiting Plants

Tomatoes and peppers are still producing in earnest in August, and they are not shy about their needs. Once plants are flowering and fruiting, a weekly liquid tomato feed can help support a steady harvest, particularly in containers, grow bags, and raised beds where nutrients are more quickly washed away.

Feed in the cool of morning after watering, aiming at the soil rather than splashing foliage. This is also the time to maintain even moisture. A tomato that alternates between drought and deluge may respond with split fruit, blossom-end rot, or the sort of general sulkiness with which gardeners become sadly familiar.

Eggplant, cucumbers, squash, and container-grown strawberries can benefit from the same approach if they are actively flowering or setting fruit. A potassium-rich feed supports the task at hand without pushing unnecessary leafy growth.

Tomato fertilizer has a surprisingly broad social life; our guide to plants that benefit from tomato feed explains where else it can earn its keep.

Refresh Tired Soil Rather Than Reaching For More Feed

Sometimes a plant does not need more fertilizer. It needs better soil, a larger pot, or a layer of compost to help retain moisture and improve root health. This is especially true with containers whose potting mix has shrunk away from the sides, creating a root ball that water runs around rather than through.

A thin mulch of homemade compost around flowering borders and vegetable beds is useful in August, provided you keep it away from stems. It helps hold moisture, supports soil life, and gives roots a steadier environment through hot spells. For raised beds or a tired border, organic compost from Walmart is a practical soil improver to have on hand.

In my own garden, the biggest improvement often comes from watering deeply, mulching well, and then using half the fertilizer I first imagined. Gardening has a habit of rewarding the person willing to do slightly less, but do it consistently.

If you are adding fresh crops among the fading summer abundance, these vegetables to plant in August will make good use of a newly refreshed bed.

Know Which Plants To Stop Feeding Now

Late summer feeding is not a universal kindness. Stop fertilizing deciduous trees, shrubs, hedges, and most established perennials as they begin slowing down, especially in colder temperate zones. You do not want to stimulate lush new growth that will be too soft to withstand approaching cold.

Avoid feeding spring-flowering shrubs such as lilac (Syringa vulgaris), forsythia, and flowering quince (Chaenomeles) now. Likewise, established hydrangeas and peonies (Paeonia) do not need a late-summer fertilizer salvo. Their next important task is to settle down, not embark upon an ill-advised second adolescence.

Hold off on feeding lawns, too, unless a local lawn-care schedule specifically recommends it for your region. In many parts of the US, an early-fall lawn feed is more appropriate than a high-summer application, when heat and drought can make the grass resentful.

The same principle applies to houseplants moved outdoors for summer: reduce feeding as growth slows and light levels begin to decline. Plants understand the calendar even when we are still wearing sandals.

What to Shop

The cleverest August gardener is not the one with the largest collection of products. It is the one who sees what is still growing, waters properly, feeds lightly, and knows when to stop.

Focus on flowering containers, repeat-blooming roses, dahlias, and fruiting crops. Use a liquid fertilizer in small, regular doses, pair it with consistent watering, and give the rest of the garden permission to start its gradual journey toward fall. It is less dramatic than throwing handfuls of fertilizer around at sunset, admittedly, but your plants will be healthier for it, and so will your conscience.

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If you want to keep your annuals in borders, containers, and hanging baskets flowering all summer long and looking good right through until the first frosts, an expert flower grower recommends three tasks that are guaranteed to prolong their life as long as possible.

‘We grow a lot of annuals at our farmquarters up in Washington state,’ says Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers. ‘I find the three things that do the most are to deadhead, water deeply and consistently, and not overfeed.’

To keep annual flowers blooming until frost arrives, follow this expert-approved advice to make the most of that one-season show. Add these three simple words to your summer gardening checklist: deadhead, water, feed (you can get a liquid bloom booster on Amazon that is perfect for annuals). ‘I've found that doing those three things works far better than any hack or wives' tale,’ adds Christina.

1. Deadhead Often

Deadheading encourages lots of fresh flowers and the longest display. Annual flowers are short-lived and put energy into producing seeds once the blooms go over. As Christina Stembel puts it, once the plants start making seeds, ‘that basically means they've done their job and are calling it a day’.

You don’t want the energy going into seed production; it exhausts the plants as they essentially prepare for the end of their lives. Instead, by deadheading, you direct the energy into producing new buds and flowers. This quick, easy task can dramatically extend the show and lifespan of annual flowers, including marigolds, cosmos, zinnias, snapdragons, petunias, and many more.

Check your plants every few days and snip off the spent flowers with a pair of sharp pruning snips, such as these Felco pruning snips on Amazon. Alternatively, you can snap the old blooms off many plants between your fingers and thumb, but be careful to snap rather than pull the entire plant by accident.

An exception comes with self-cleaning annuals that don’t need deadheading. These plants naturally drop faded flowers, and include impatiens, lobelia, and some varieties of petunias.

2. Water Deeply

Annual flowers won’t last long if they are repeatedly left to dry out and wilt, then completely soaked. That kind of feast-and-famine approach throughout the summer will stress the plants and reduce their lifespan.

The best approach to watering the garden is to water deeply and consistently. Shallow daily watering may seem beneficial, but it causes plants to grow shallow roots near the surface. When the temperatures spike and the top inches of soil dry out, they quickly suffer and wilt.

A much better way to water plants is to water deeply, though less frequently. This encourages stronger roots.

‘Depending on how much you're watering, I've found mulching helps them retain the moisture longer so you don't feel like a jerk not conserving water,’ adds Christina. This bag of all-natural wood mulch from Miracle-Gro is available at The Home Depot and ideal for use around annual flowers.

Fast-growing annuals in pots will need more regular watering, potentially every day, but still soak them thoroughly until you see water running out the drainage holes.

It is good practise when watering plants in hot weather to do it in the morning, so the plants benefit most, and avoid the watering mistake of soaking the foliage rather than the soil, which causes fungal issues.

3. Feed Regularly

To keep annual flowers blooming until frost hits, they need a consistent source of nutrients. Well-fed annuals will have the nourishment required to keep producing lots of new blooms for the longest display.

The best summer flower fertilizer is higher in phosphorus and potassium – the nutrients that encourage strong flowering. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds that promote lush foliage growth, and stick to fertilizing flowers in pots and borders with water-soluble products labelled ‘bloom booster’ or tomato feeds.

Feed annuals, especially those growing in container gardens or hanging baskets, every week or two to keep them blooming. Always stick to the recommended rates, as Christina warns: ‘I've made a ton of mistakes, like over-fertilizing, thinking that would keep them blooming longer, but sadly it actually did the opposite.’

Shop Summer Flower Fertilizers

If you keep annual flowers blooming until frost, that can be the end for them. However, you can protect plants from frost to try to squeeze a little bit more of a show from even tender annuals.

It can take only a few minutes to cover plants with frost cloth (such as this 10 x 50 feet frost cloth at Walmart) when a light frost is forecast. This quick job can extend the season, but remember to remove the covers in the morning once the temperatures rise.

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