November is one of the trickiest months for houseplant care, as the seasons shift and our beloved plants become vulnerable to drastic changes to the indoor growing environment, often resulting in issues like leaf drop.

It's not uncommon and usually just indicates something needs adjusting in your fall houseplant care. While there are some underlying issues that can cause leaf drop, one of the biggest culprits is the combination of lower light levels and cooler temperatures. If these challenging conditions aren't addressed, it could even result in plant death.

But, don't worry. It doesn't mean it's time to give up on your houseplant. I've managed to revive struggling houseplants in fall by making some simple adjustments and nurturing them back to good health. So, with your houseplant care kit to hand (a grow light from Amazon might be particularly handy), this is what you need to know.

Challenging Fall Conditions

While some common indoor plant mistakes and even houseplant pests can also cause leaf drop, houseplants often drop their leaves in November due to the combination of lower light levels and cooler room temperatures.

Light is one of the biggest struggles for houseplants as we move into fall and winter. Not only are the days shorter, but our homes have limited natural light, meaning less light is available for our plants.

With many houseplants needing at least eight hours of bright light (though there are a range of indoor low light plants), it is hard to provide optimal conditions in fall.

This results in the plant not being able to perform essential plant processes, including photosynthesis. This provides less energy to the plant, slowing down its growth and making it hard to maintain existing foliage.

As for temperature, sudden fluctuations in our homes from cold drafts - and indoor heating - can shock tropical indoor plants that prefer consistent warmth. It once again can halt plant processes and reduce the water uptake through the plant's roots, overall weakening it.

Together, these less-than-ideal conditions can cause discoloring foliage, drooping, and eventual leaf drop.

The good news, however, is that you can revive your houseplants and give them better conditions to ensure they make it through the rest of winter unscathed.

How to Fix It

The first thing I do when any of my houseplants are struggling is assess their environment. Looking for things like a cold draft, proximity to heaters, and how much natural light they get can determine what needs improving.

You can then make the adjustments needed.

A grow light (like this one with a timer from Amazon) can boost light levels where daylight isn't sufficient, or you can move your plants closer to bright windows. Houseplant rotation can also aid better light exposure, encouraging more symmetrical growth by regularly turning the plant.

Cleaning houseplant leaves can also keep pores unblocked and allow more light exposure to the leaves. I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon) which are made of microfiber and pick up layers of dust in a single swipe.

As for warmth, I use a room thermometer (like this from Walmart) to monitor temperatures. It's helpful to do some research into your specific houseplant's needs, but 65-75°F is generally the sweet spot.

You should avoid placing houseplants close to heaters, as it can draw out too much moisture, resulting in dehydration and leaf scorch.

However, if your home is a bit too chilly for your plants, consider using one of the methods to keep houseplants warm in winter. This includes using a breathable material (like this burlap from Amazon) to wrap pots for extra insulation.

Likewise keeping plants away from cold windows and drafts will give them a more stable growing environment. Using a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) can also boost humidity and counter any dry air caused by heating in fall.

As for pruning, removing dead leaves (with these Fiskars indoor precision snips on Amazon) can give your houseplants a boost by removing the material that's draining energy, allowing it to focus on the healthy foliage. However, you should take care not to prune more than a third of the plant because this may cause further shock and weaken your plant even more.

Then it's all about providing gentle winter houseplant care, not overwatering, watching for temperature fluctuations, and checking leaves regularly for pests.

What to Shop

Something else you can do to is wash your windows for houseplants in November. It sounds a little bit strange, but removing dirt and dust from your windows allows more natural light into the home and therefore improves light exposure for your plants.

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Christmas cactus are hugely popular for their cheery festive flowers which dazzle in time for the holidays. Adorning the end of each trailing, segmented stem, their fun and curious blooms shine out in shades of scarlet, tangerine, magenta, pale pink and white.

While long-lived, these trailing plants do have a slightly diva-ish reputation, when it comes to plant care, putting many people off from buying or gifting them, or indeed keeping them beyond the Christmas festivities.

Learning how to grow a Christmas cactus, and specifically where to position them indoors during November (a crucial period for bud development) is the secret to good plant health and plentiful flowers. And if you're unsure which color to go for, opt for Costa Farms Christmas cactus 3-pack from Lowe's.

Bright Light is Key

Not to be confused with a Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), a true Christmas cactus has smooth and curvy leaf sections (minus the tiny horns) and loves a well lit position in your home.

'Bright light is best; a spot within about 3 feet or so of an east- or west-facing window in most areas is ideal,' says horticulturalist Justin Hancock. 'You want your plant to cast a medium to strong shadow for at least several hours a day. This is important because if it doesn’t get enough light, it won’t have the energy to bloom well.'

Horticulture specialist Laura Coggan also suggests: 'An east-facing window is ideal. A south or west window works behind a sheer curtain as direct midday sun scorches the segments.'

An easy way to monitor light levels is using a dedicated app such as Photone Grow Light Meter. Alternatively a 3 in 1 soil moisture meter, such as this one from Walmart, can give quick and accurate light level readings.

Provide a Steady Climate

A consistent daylight and temperature pattern is the key to making a Christmas cactus bloom.

'Unlike desert-dwelling cacti, Holiday Cacti are native to tropical rainforests and prefer humidity levels over about 40 or 45 percent,' says Justin.

'Your Holiday Cactus is comfortable in the same temperature range as you are; 65F or so to 80F with a drop of about 5 to 10 degrees at night. This nightly drop is very helpful in getting the plant to bloom.'

Short daylight hours and long periods of darkness (around 12-14 hours for a period of 6 to 8 weeks) with low temperatures of 50–59°F (10–15°C) prompts the plant to enter dormancy and signals for it to divert energy into flower bud production. Watching these tiny nubs develop on the leaf tips, swell and open into glorious blooms is, for many, a quietly anticipated festive event.

'When you’ve found a good spot, try not to move it to different locations to avoid stress from sudden shifts in its environment,' explains plant expert Paris Lalicata. 'Once buds start to form, avoid rotating the plant which can cause the flower buds to drop prematurely due to the energy it takes to re-orient themselves to the lighting.'

Monitor your room's climate with this digital room thermometer and humidity gauge from Lowe's, we like it for its clear and and accurate display.

Avoid Cold Drafts

Christmas cactus plants dislike any change in their environment, especially a sudden drop in temperature or air movement.

Like all indoor succulents, their sectioned, fleshy leaves - known as cladodes - store large amounts of water to sustain the plant through potential drought. Any sudden drop in temperature can damage (or freeze) the delicate plant cells, slowing or stopping photosynthesis and turning the once turgid stems to soften and turn into mush.

'In nature, this plant is not subjected to blasts of hot or cold air, so to keep it comfortable in your home, it shouldn’t be, either. Watch for heating vents, drafty windows, etc. where the air temperature can change suddenly,' cautions Justin.

Boost humidity by grouping Christmas cactus together on a multi-level plant stand such as this one from Walmart.

Why The Wrong Position Prevents Flowering

Dark, unlit corners, cold drafts or spots right beside a heater all spell disaster for Christmas cactus. Simply put, place this plant in the wrong position and it will struggle to thrive, let along produce any blooms.

'Fluctuations in the plant's environment like drafts, low humidity or low light, as well as improper care like over or underwatering can also prevent the plant from thriving and developing flower buds,' notes Paris.

The common indoor plant mistake that is usually responsible for Christmas cactus failing to bloom lies in the lighting. 'A Christmas cactus that is exposed to too much artificial lighting after sundown can inhibit blooming since they need a longer period of darkness,' Paris explains.

If you do opt for a spot away from natural light, 'Keep the plant in a dark corner with a grow light overhead set on a 8 hour timer.' This LED dimmable grow light with timer from Lowe's works well.

Shop Christmas Cactus Care

There's no doubt Christmas cactus are amongst the best festive houseplants, adding holiday cheer to any room but if you do fancy adding to your leafy decorations check out these Christmas cactus alternatives.

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Meet The Experts

November is an important month for poinsettias, particularly if you want to enjoy a beautiful display of red, pink or cream bracts throughout the festive season. Whether you've recently brought home a new plant or are hoping to encourage one you've kept from last Christmas to develop its colorful foliage again, a few seasonal adjustments can make all the difference.

Native to Mexico, poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are tropical plants that respond to changes in daylight to produce their distinctive colorful bracts. These are actually modified leaves, rather than flowers, which surround the plant's tiny yellow blooms. As temperatures drop and central heating comes on, it's important to recreate the warm, consistent growing conditions they naturally prefer.

Getting your poinsettia care right in November means paying particular attention to light, warmth and watering. With the right conditions, you can help maintain healthy foliage and vibrant bracts throughout the festive season. Here are five essential things to do this month.

1. Make Sure Your Poinsettia Gets Enough Daylight

As the days become shorter, providing enough natural light is particularly important for keeping poinsettia foliage healthy and colorful. When considering where to place a poinsettia, choose somewhere bright, ideally near an east- or west-facing window, where it can enjoy plenty of indirect daylight without being exposed to harsh direct sunshine. A sheer voile curtain from Target can help filter stronger sunlight, while the OLIVBLAD plant stand from IKEA is useful for positioning your poinsettia closer to a window if needed.

If you're trying to encourage a poinsettia you've kept from last Christmas to develop its colorful bracts again, November is also an important stage in its flowering cycle. These tropical plants need long, uninterrupted periods of darkness to trigger their seasonal display, typically around 14 hours each night for eight to 10 weeks. If you began this process in October, continue the routine until you see the bracts developing color. Once they start to turn red, pink or cream, you can stop covering the plant at night and return it to its usual bright position. Even small amounts of artificial light during the dark period can interfere with this process, so consistency is essential.

2. Keep Your Poinsettia Warm and Away From Drafts

Poinsettias are sensitive to temperature changes, so finding a suitable position is one of the most important things you can do for them in November. They prefer consistent warmth, ideally around 65–70°F (18–21°C), and should be kept away from cold drafts, open doors and chilly windowsills. If your home tends to feel chilly, the Govee Indoor Hygrometer Thermometer from Amazon can help you monitor the temperature and find a comfortable spot for your plant.

It's equally important to avoid placing your poinsettia too close to radiators, fireplaces or heating vents. Although poinsettias appreciate warmth, hot, dry air can cause their leaves and colorful bracts to deteriorate and drop prematurely. If your home is particularly dry during the heating season, the Homedics Portable Humidifier from Amazon can help improve indoor conditions.

If you've recently bought a poinsettia, be particularly careful when bringing it home. Exposure to cold temperatures on the journey can cause considerable stress, so ask for it to be wrapped before leaving the store and take it indoors promptly.

3. Adjust How You Water Your Poinsettia

As your poinsettia settles into its winter display, pay attention to its watering requirements. Knowing when and how to water a poinsettia is important for keeping its foliage healthy and preventing premature leaf drop. The aim is to keep the compost lightly moist without allowing the roots to become waterlogged.

Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, check the surface of the compost regularly. When the top inch feels dry to the touch, water thoroughly using room-temperature water, allowing any excess to drain away. A long-spout indoor watering can from Amazon makes it easier to direct water onto the compost without splashing the foliage.

Never leave the plant sitting in a saucer or decorative outer pot filled with water, as this can encourage root rot. If your poinsettia is displayed in a decorative Christmas container, remove the nursery pot before watering and let it drain completely before putting it back. A plant pot drip tray can also help catch excess water and protect your furniture.

4. Check the Leaves and Remove Any Damaged Growth

November is a good time to give your poinsettia a quick health check, particularly if you've had it for several weeks or are bringing an older plant back into flower. Look for yellowing leaves, wilting, damaged foliage or signs of pests, which can indicate that its growing conditions need adjusting.

Remove any fallen leaves from the surface of the compost and carefully take away foliage that has become yellow or damaged. Use clean, sharp houseplant pruning scissors to avoid unnecessarily disturbing the plant. It's also worth checking underneath the leaves and around the stems for common houseplant pests, including whitefly and mealybugs. If you spot any, deal with them promptly using an appropriate houseplant insecticidal soap spray, such as the Garden Safe option from Amazon, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Avoid extensive pruning at this stage, as your priority should be maintaining the plant's foliage and colorful bracts rather than encouraging lots of new growth.

5. Give Your Poinsettia the Right Conditions to Last Until Christmas

If you want your poinsettia to remain a beautiful part of your Christmas decorating, consistency is more important than giving it lots of additional attention. Keep it in a bright, warm position, maintain an even watering routine and avoid moving it between rooms with significantly different temperatures. A decorative ceramic plant pot, such as this ceramic design from Target, can also help create an attractive festive display, as long as you can easily remove the nursery pot for watering.

There is generally no need to feed a newly purchased poinsettia during its festive display period. If you're growing an older plant you've encouraged to flower again, you can continue an appropriate feeding routine, using a balanced liquid, such as the TPS Poinsettia Fertilizer from Amazon, according to the manufacturer's instructions.

A little attention to poinsettia care in November will help keep its foliage healthy and colorful bracts looking vibrant throughout the festive season. Focus on consistent warmth, good light and careful watering, and your plant should remain a beautiful part of your home well into the New Year.

I love a Christmas wreath that feels as though it has been gathered straight from the garden. There's something beautiful about working with foraged foliage, bringing together different shades of green, interesting branches and unexpected details to create something that feels personal and rather wild.

While a foraged wreath might look effortless, there is an art to making it actually look good, rather than a collection of gathered greenery.

For me, the secret to elevating a natural Christmas wreath is all in the layering, choice of materials and extra, yet simple, finishings. Think dried citrus displayed in an interesting way, and a beautiful thick, velvet ribbon. Here, I share four of my best tricks for giving a foraged wreath a more professional feel.

Start With a Beautiful Mix of Foraged Foliage

The secret to a beautiful natural wreath is to use a variety of foliage for Christmas décor, rather than relying on just one type.

I love combining different shades of green, leaf shapes and textures, choosing some fuller, more substantial branches alongside finer, delicate stems.

Don't forget your good quality pruning shears are needed to make the job of foraging much easier. My go-to are these Niwaki pruning shears from Anthropologie.

Look beyond traditional evergreen, too. The best natural materials for a homegrown wreath include interesting hedgerow foliage, conifer clippings and trailing greenery can all bring something different. The more variety you introduce, the more depth your wreath will have.

Layer Your Materials for Depth

To give your wreath a fuller, more professional finish, build up your foliage in layers rather than adding individual sprigs randomly.

I like to work in bunches, overlapping each one as I move around the base, so that the stems are concealed and the materials sit together naturally.

The best way to attach your foliage is by using wire, or natural jute twine, available from Amazon.

Vary the direction and placement of your foliage, too, allowing some pieces to sit higher while others follow the shape of the wreath. You can follow the natural shapes in the branches to create a bigger wreath, and stay true to a wilder, more natural feel.

Add Contrast With Unexpected Details

Once you have a good foundation of foliage, think about introducing a few materials that will create contrast and draw the eye.

For this wreath design, I created garlands of dried limes (available from Amazon), which bring a warm, muted color and interesting shapes against the greenery.

Seedheads, cones, berries and dried flowers can all work beautifully, too, but I would choose just one or two additional materials and repeat them around the wreath for a more considered finish.

Perfect the Finishing Touches

It's often the little details that take a homemade wreath to the next level. I love to embellish my shape with twigs I've gathered from the garden. Stick them into the design at a variety of angles to add depth.

I don't feel you need to add lots decoration for a wreath to look professional, but one well-chosen ribbon can make a big impact. In my design, I have layered two double-sided velvet ribbons in rich plum and vibrant burnt orange, which give that festive flourish to finish the design. I found this forest green double sided velvet ribbon at Walmart, and recommend.

I also like to think about how the wreath will hang, and whether you want to add a ribbon for this too, as you want it to look just as beautiful from a distance as it does close up.

What to Shop For Your Wreath Design

And if you're getting into the festive spirit and want some expertly curated gift inspo, you'll love our beautiful new holiday gift guides.

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If you've exhausted your best gift ideas for your green-fingered friend, let me suggest something a little further outside the box: an acorn growing vase, i.e. a beautiful (and practical) way to grow your very own oak tree from scratch.

This is the singular tool I used to grow an oak tree from an acorn, and it made it nearly effortless. Take this Amazon acorn growing vase as an example – it holds the acorn above a water reservoir where the roots grow. I love that it's transparent and rounded in shape, turning the rooting stage into living art for the home.

It's the perfect gift for gardeners who already have everything they need, providing a DIY that doesn't require too much effort and can be enjoyed for many months at a time. As the oak seedling grows into a tree for their garden, it'll turn into a gift that keeps on giving for years to come.

How Does It Work?

Acorn vases come in a wide range of styles (I also like the design of this acorn vase with a wooden base from Amazon), but all serve the same purpose: to make it easy and fun to propagate an oak tree by rooting an acorn.

They have a cup to hold a singular acorn in place and a water reservoir to support root growth.

It does require a bit of preparation, however, as you first need to stratify the acorn by wrapping it in a wet paper towel and placing it in the fridge for 4-8 weeks, after which it should have started to sprout its taproot.

Once this white root emerges, you can put the acorn in the vase to watch its root development. It tends to stay like this for 10 months to a year, before planting out the sapling in spring.

What Shoppers Say

This Amazon acorn growing vase has 4.3 stars from shoppers who have had lots of success with it.

'This super cute jar is perfect for starting trees,' says one five-star reviewer.

'The tiny opening at the neck of the vase will probably accommodate various acorn sizes, from skinny southern live oak acorns to large burr oak acorns without letting them fall through to the bottom of the vase,' another person writes.

Shoppers are happy with both the look and function of the vase, but there is one downside a few of the reviews mention: it doesn't come with an acorn or instructions.

Nevertheless, many shoppers have found joy in gathering acorns themselves and note it's easy enough to stratify them: 'You basically cause stratification inside a ziplock bag with damp paper towels; place your acorns in there and put them in the fridge, checking on them every week or so until the taproot appears.'

As a gift, it may be worth foraging for acorns to include, or providing some advice to the recipient.

But for just $15.49, the vase itself is an elegant and affordable piece to purchase, offering years of propagation and enjoyment. You could even throw in an avocado growing vase (like this from Walmart), which works much the same but is larger to accommodate growing an avocado tree from seed.

What to Shop

Keep in mind that water propagation mistakes apply when rooting an acorn in water. You should refresh the water regularly to keep it algae-free and ensure your acorn is kept somewhere bright to encourage faster rooting.

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Removing pine needles and other tiny debris from a gravel path or driveway is painstaking, as they get everywhere. It can also be infuriating, as you try in vain to clear the needles without dragging piles of gravel around

I spent many years working as a professional gardener in major public gardens. During that time, I raked and tidied gravel paths every Friday to prepare them for huge numbers of weekend visitors. After countless hours on this task, I found a spring-tine rake to be the best tool for raking gravel paths.

If I had to tell anyone how to remove pine needles from gravel, I would always say to use a spring-tine rake above any other gardening tool. This Husky wooden-handled steel rake at The Home Depot is a perfect example of the kit I used. With it, you can skim over the gravel and work through the stones to clear paths without disturbing the gravel too much.

Why You Should Remove Pine Needles From Gravel

A few pine needles might not seem like a big problem. True, it starts as a small issue, but as your pine tree continues to drop needles through fall, the potential problems add up. As a layer builds up, it becomes a job for your fall gardening checklist.

Pine needles become an eyesore in gravel landscaping. If you leave them to accumulate, they mat together, forming larger clumps that are difficult to get rid of. These matted needles also become a slip hazard, turning a garden path into a slimy threat.

As the pine needles break down, they release nutrients into the soil between and underneath the gravel. This creates a desirable and welcoming home for weed seeds to germinate, risking your gravel patio, driveway, or path becoming inundated with weeds.

Remove Pine Needles From Gravel Paths Like a Pro

What makes a spring-tine garden rake the most efficient way to remove pine needles from gravel paths? The clue is in the name; the flexible steel tines make them the best.

If you use other types of rakes, such as a bow rake or leaf rake with solid teeth, they are designed to grip and drag materials. Use them on a gravel path, and these rakes will dig into the surface and shift a mass of gravel as well as the needles.

The Husky wooden-handled steel rake has a 22-inch-wide head with 22 robust steel tines. These tines are perfect for lightly skimming across the gravel with short strokes to lift and flick pine needles from among the aggregate, rather than drag the gravel around.

I always found that short strokes that just swept the top layer of the gravel let the tines shift the needles and other debris. Some smaller pieces of gravel may be disturbed, but the base layer should remain undisturbed.

The technique takes some getting used to, but with a bit of practice you can sweep across the path or patio with a succession of short strokes to create a pile of needles and debris at the end to pick up.

The Husky wooden-handled steel rake has a 53-inch varnished eucalyptus hardwood handle – ideal for raking paths without bending excessively, which is great news if you have lots of gravel landscaping to deal with. The long handle makes it simple to flick the pine needles with short strokes along the path.

The tool is bolted together for heavy use and features a reinforced spring at the back for a long lifespan.

Beyond just raking paths, this spring-tine rake comes in handy for lots of seasonal gardening tasks, such as scarifying a lawn, collecting leaves, and gathering debris after pruning. Given how much action it’ll see, the fact that it comes with a lifetime guarantee is a major plus.

If you have a leaf blower, you can use it to remove pine needles from gravel, but it takes some finesse. It must be used on a low setting and angled so the air blows over the surface of the gravel. If you use a high setting or point the blower down into the gravel, you risk scattering the gravel far and wide.

Shop for Spring-Tine Rakes:

Don’t just throw away pine needles you collect from paths or driveways. Instead, add them to a compost heap or use them as fall mulch around shrubs and trees.

There was previously a concern about using pine needles as mulch because they were thought to make the soil more acidic. However, in recent years, this has been debunked, so you can use them without worrying about affecting your soil health.

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An autumn garden doesn't have to follow convention to be beautiful. In this garden in Tunbridge Wells, UK, the designer dared to be different, planting exotic tropicals alongside traditional perennials to create an immersive landscape that's full of surprises.

The brief was to transform a traditional 1980s lawned garden into an urban jungle where the client – a passionate plantsman – could indulge his love of bold foliage and rich textures found in both tropical plants and native planting. But there was one challenge for designer Karen McClure to overcome: the garden sits on a steep slope.

Rather than trying to disguise the gradient, Karen chose to work with it, making use of the existing borders and turning a previously underused space into an abundant planting scheme. Now, there's something unexpected to discover at every turn, making the garden feel a world away from its suburban setting.

‘When we first embarked on the design journey, the client had already recognised an opportunity to reimagine not just the garden itself, but its boundaries,’ says Karen McClure.

Beyond the existing fence was an overlooked area of land, where a magnificent mature tulip tree stood. It immediately became the anchor for the design, inspiring Karen to incorporate this unused space and extend the garden.

‘The tulip tree became the inspiration for an entirely new planting experience, allowing us to create an immersive, jungle-inspired landscape that feels both established and wonderfully unexpected,’ Karen says.

From there, the planting scheme took shape, bringing oversized foliage from tree ferns, palms, and Tetrapanax together with more familiar English garden favorites, including hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, and rudbeckia.

‘It was equally important to keep this bold landscape connected to the architecture of the house. The balance between strong, contemporary design and abundant, naturalistic planting gives it a distinctive character. A secret jungle in the heart of suburbia,’ Karen describes.

The natural sloping of the garden turned out to be a blessing when thinking about movement through the layout.

'We embraced the changes in level as an opportunity to introduce rhythm and a sense of journey through the space,' Karen says.

The garden unfolds across these different levels, with statement Schellevis garden steps guiding you through the layered planting.

‘We needed steps that provide both a strong architectural presence and a sense of understated simplicity. The large-format Schellevis steps offered the perfect solution,' Karen says.

Their generous proportions make the steps sculptural features in their own right, complementing the oversized tropical specimens. Yet naturalistic planting surrounds them and softens their edges, creating the impression that they are almost floating within the landscape.

‘We carefully considered the height, scale and structure of each planting layer, ensuring that the garden could be appreciated from multiple viewpoints – whether looking out across the landscape from the upper floors of the house or experiencing the planting at close quarters from within the garden itself,’ Karen says.

From above, the different layers of planting overlap and intertwine. At ground level, the experience is more immersive, with gravel paths leading you beneath the plant canopies that envelop you.

Tucked among the planting, three garden zones wait to be discovered. Each has its own purpose but they're all connected through a cohesive design.

‘The elevated dining terrace occupies the highest level, providing a wonderful vantage point from which to enjoy the garden. In contrast, the cozy seating area offers a place to retreat and pause. Here, the experience is quieter and more enclosed, with foliage creating a sense of privacy and escape,’ Karen explains.

At the lowest level, the client's love of horticulture is reflected in a non-negotiable potting shed, which provides both a practical workspace and a personal retreat for them to nurture plants and experiment with growing.

‘The functional spaces are carefully woven into the landscape, rather than the landscape simply providing a backdrop to them,’ Karen says.

The client's passion for experimentation is fundamental to the dramatic planting palette.

‘Every design begins with understanding the client, their personality, their relationship with the outdoors and, importantly, how they want their garden to make them feel,’ Karen explains.

‘For this project, we had the freedom to bring together the familiarity of traditional herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses with the bold, architectural presence of more exotic species,’ she continues.

Red hot pokers stand among purple coneflowers and verbena, while fiery Helenium bring vivid splashes of color among fall planting. These flowers and seedheads sit alongside the oversized leaves of tropical plants, creating a rich landscape.

‘Rather than creating a garden that follows one particular horticultural style, we wanted to celebrate the diversity of plants and the beauty of combining them. The result feels characterful and joyful, yet considered,’ Karen says.

As with any garden, this extraordinary outdoor space will never quite be finished. With a client who is so enthusiastic and knowledgeable about plants, there are always new varieties to discover and unconventional planting combinations to experiment with.

For Karen, the garden is not a completed design, but a living landscape, shaped by the seasons, and the people who enjoy it.

‘We feel incredibly fortunate to have a client who shares that philosophy. Our relationship with this garden has continued long beyond its initial creation, and that ongoing collaboration is perhaps the most rewarding part of all.’

Garden design: Karen McClure Garden Design @karenmccluregardendesign

Main supplier: Corker

Photography: Rob Curd Got the Shot @gottheshotmedia

Salvias are a diverse range of plants with colorful flowers, textural and aromatic foliage, and an ability to attract pollinators in droves during the season. They are low-maintenance perennials that require some TLC in late fall to guarantee the best display next year, but exactly what they need in November depends on certain factors.

You should start preparing salvias for winter in November, if you haven’t already. The amount of care and protection required will be influenced by the type of salvia and your climate. Hardy salvias may need little more than mulching in colder zones, while tender varieties will want a little extra protection. If you grow salvias, make sure you know what category they fit into before doing anything this month.

Here is what to do with salvias in November, including hardy, borderline-hardy, and tender types. We outline four key tasks, not all of which will be relevant in every garden or for every salvia. If you are on the lookout for a really hardy salvia, consider Salvia nemorosa, such as this Salvia nemorosa ‘Marcus’ at Nature Hills, which is cold hardy down to zone 4.

1. Mulch All Salvias

Both hardy and tender salvias benefit from mulching this month. A thick layer of mulch protects plants from frost, like a thermal blanket insulating the roots against freezing temperatures. Mulch not only retains much-needed warmth in the ground, but also prevents frost heave from lifting a salvia out of the ground.

Wait, there is more. Two additional benefits of mulching are that it helps retain soil moisture and boosts soil nutrients as it breaks down. Your salvias will have access to essential nutrients and moisture when they wake in spring, so they’ll develop quickly and healthily. Combine this with some balanced fertilizer in early spring (like this all-purpose plant food at Burpee), and you’ll get a fantastic display next year.

Mulching is a win-win, helping both to winterize salvias and promote strong development come spring. The best types of mulch to apply this month are organic matter. This includes compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold. For example, this bag of compost and manure blend at The Home Depot is ideal for mulching salvias.

Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the salvia plants, but avoid piling it against the stems or the crown. Covering the plant retains excess moisture in the crown, which can lead to rot.

2. Cover or Lift Tender Salvias

Mulching salvias in flower beds is essential for tender varieties, including Salvia guaranitica, Salvia leucanths, and the extremely popular Salvia ‘Amistad’.

Their root systems will be eternally thankful for a thick layer of mulch to act as a barrier between them and freezing temperatures. Without winter protection, you can kiss goodbye to any chances of seeing their glorious flowers next year.

For extra protection, cover semi-hardy and tender salvias with frost cloth (also called row covers or horticultural fleece) ahead of winter. Ideally, pick a heavy-grade frost cloth, such as this heavyweight 2.0 oz/sq² cover on Amazon. Use garden hoops or bamboo poles (available at The Home Depot) to create a structure over the salvias, and secure the cover over the plants as well as to the ground.

Alternatively, if you have the space, lift tender salvias and bring plants indoors in November to escape the winter elements. Carefully lift the plants from the ground and put them into containers filled with well-draining compost, such as this Miracle-Gro potting mix on Amazon. The plants can spend winter in an unheated, frost-free greenhouse.

3. Move Any Salvia in Pots

If you grow salvias in pots, a simple way to protect them ahead of winter is to move pots together. Grouping pots creates a natural microclimate that traps heat and helps to insulate the delicate roots. It is important to winterize any salvias in pots, even hardy varieties, as their roots are more susceptible to frost in containers.

So where is best to put them? Gathering them against a fence or wall blocks cold winds, while keeping the pots next to the home allows them to take advantage of the warmth that permeates through the walls. Keeping them under an overhang or the eaves protects them against freezing rain.

If extremely cold nights are forecast, you can always wrap the pots in frost cloth or burlap. Insulated pot covers are available for winter use, such as these winter pot covers on Amazon.

To stop your salvias from waterlogging or sitting directly on cold, wet surfaces that can freeze over winter, raise them on pot feet. You can get a pack of 12 rubber pot feet at Walmart.

4. Gently Trim For Health Reasons

You shouldn’t heavily prune salvias at this time of year. The old growth helps protect the crown from winter damage, so it's best to keep it in place. However, some small-scale trimming can be done, but only in certain circumstances.

This includes removing dead, damaged, and diseased material, including any growth that shows signs of powdery mildew and grey mould. Those fungal diseases can overwinter on the plant and on any debris left around it to infect new growth when it starts coming through in spring.

Removing affected material and clearing away plant debris, such as leaves or stems that surround the salvia, stops next year’s stems from facing a battle with disease straight away.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools to cut down infected stems, and disinfect the pruners after use with household disinfectant to prevent spreading the disease when you do any other trimming.

What to Shop

Come November, most attention focuses on protecting plants for winter. There are still planting opportunities, though, so don’t overlook the potential to add to your garden this month.

If the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged, you can plant in November. These include spring bulbs like tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, and daffodils, along with bare-root shrubs, trees, or hedging plants.

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Caring for precious houseplants requires lots of fine-detailed work throughout the year. Indoor plants have specific needs, so why not use pruning tools designed for them?

Precision is key to keeping indoor plants wondrous and thriving, especially when trimming damaged material, deadheading, propagating, and more. When looking for pruners, I found these Fiskars plant detailer snips designed specifically for houseplants. I was impressed by the potential uses of the tool's micro-tip blades and long handles.

Lots of positive reviews backed up my first impressions of the Fiskars plant detailer snips. The pruning tool costs $14.25 on Amazon, making it a small investment for anyone with indoor plants or a great present for a houseplant enthusiast.

A Precision Tool for Fine Trimming

These Fiskars plant detailer snips are made for anyone with houseplants, whether they have one or two plants or a home full of indoor plants. The pruners have lots of potential to become an essential part of any houseplant care kit, and here’s why.

The sharp micro-tip blades are perfectly suited for precise cuts. Use them to deadhead flowers, remove yellow or brown leaves, thin crowded centers, cut back leggy stems, and propagate houseplants. These maintenance tasks help keep your houseplant collection healthy and looking its best, and this one tool can do any or all of them.

Its precision-ground stainless steel blades are super-sharp, so you can rely on them to make clean cuts. They won’t crush or damage stems; instead, they make precise cuts that your plant can heal quickly. You will need to sharpen the blade after extended use and clean the tool regularly to keep it in top condition, but it is designed to stay sharp for long periods and resist rust and corrosion.

A real plus to the Fiskars plant detailer snips is the long handles that allow you to get into small gaps and dense foliage. This comes in handy for lots of intricate trimming tasks. You can confidently trim deep into the center during essential summer or fall houseplant care, without any fear of damaging the surrounding material.

Reaching far into plants is useful when trimming popular houseplants like philodendron, peperomia, spider plant, tradescantia, umbrella plant, jade plant, and others with crowded centers. Long handles also reduce the risk of spiking yourself when tending to plants with spikes or sharp fronds, including indoor varieties of agave, yucca, bromeliads, cactus, and palms.

The Fiskars plant detailer snips are a modern olive green color and measure 6.3 inches long by 2.4 inches wide. That six-plus inches of reach is more than sufficient to access the center of many of the more popular indoor plants and may well be enough to get into the canopy of some larger houseplants.

They are lightweight and weigh just 7.4 ounces (0.21kg), so no pruning job feels too demanding, and you can use the snips for long periods without fatigue. And anyone can use them, as the ambidextrous handle design with large finger loops suits both right- and left-handed indoor gardeners.

The Fiskars plant detailer snips come with a matching free-standing caddy to keep them in when not in use. The holder, also in olive green, is stylish enough to place on display near your plants and provides a safe, convenient place to store the snips. However, if you would rather store the snips away, the caddy’s repositionable foot is removable to lay it flat in a drawer and keep the blade safe and protected.

What Shoppers Say

The Fiskars plant detailer snips may only have gotten just over 130 reviews at the time of writing, but they are overwhelmingly positive. They are rated 4.7 out of 5 stars, with 84% five-star and 9% four-star ratings. The tool is regularly praised for its performance and sharpness.

Different reviews mention the snips are excellent for pruning desert rose, jasmine bonsai, and kalanchoe plants. One also praised them for being ‘just the right size for cutting herbs’ – which is great news if you tend to an indoor herb garden.

Reviews agree the snips are a perfect size for fine trimming. One happy user says: ‘These are excellent for making those detailed snips that make your plants extra special.’

Elsewhere, a buyer describes them as ‘easy, precise, delicate snips’, and another adds: ‘They do a really good job at precision cutting in tight spaces.’

The cutting performance gets a lot of accolades from reviewers who have used the tool. One describes the Fiskars plant detailer snips as ‘awesome’, adding: ‘They slice through everything like butter. Nice weight and feels really premium.’

Another reviewer says: ‘The blades are thick enough to snip through a thicker stem like a ficus, but these will still be best for minor trimming’.

That same review also mentions that the finger holes ‘are a bit small’, which is a minor issue mentioned elsewhere, too. However, even when other reviews mention the small finger holes, they also praise how well the tool cuts. The size of the holes may be worth considering before purchasing the tool.

Shop Pruning Snips

Fast-growing indoor plants may need more trimming than other houseplants. This is because houseplants can get root-bound, as they grow quickly and fill the container.

When this happens, you can repot houseplants into a bigger container or prune the roots. To prune houseplant roots, remove the rootball from the pot, dust off as much soil as possible, and trim up to a third of the roots – but no more. Put the plant back into the pot and top it off with fresh potting soil.

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Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to care for, but even this famously forgiving plant needs a little extra attention as November brings shorter days, cooler temperatures, and the start of the heating season. Also known as devil’s ivy, its trailing stems and glossy, heart-shaped leaves make it a popular choice for adding greenery to shelves, hanging planters and empty corners. However, the change in seasons can affect how well it grows, meaning a few adjustments to its usual care routine are worthwhile.

When it comes to pothos plant care, understanding how the changing seasons affect its growing conditions is key to keeping it healthy. As daylight becomes increasingly limited, pothos naturally slows its growth and needs less water and nourishment than it does during the warmer months. Indoor heating can also create drier conditions, while cold drafts from windows and doors can put this tropical plant under unnecessary stress.

Fortunately, there is no need for an extensive winter care routine. A little attention to watering, light and temperature will help keep your pothos looking its best throughout November and into the colder months ahead.

1. Reduce Watering as Growth Slows

One of the most important things to do with pothos in November is adjust your watering routine. As daylight hours decrease and temperatures cool, the plant's growth naturally slows, meaning it will use less water than it did during the growing season. Continuing to water as frequently as you did during spring and summer can leave the potting mix excessively wet, increasing the risk of root rot. Instead, check the soil before reaching for your watering can.

A good rule is to allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. An XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a useful little investment if you're unsure when to water, giving you a clearer indication of how much moisture remains around the roots. Alternatively, a Bloem watering can from Target makes it easier to water directly into the soil without splashing the foliage or surrounding surfaces.

When it is time to water, give the plant a thorough drink until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer so the roots are not left sitting in water. Avoid following a rigid watering schedule, as the amount of moisture your pothos needs will depend on its position, pot size and indoor temperature. A plant in a bright, warm room may need watering more frequently than one in a cooler, shadier spot.

2. Move Your Pothos Somewhere Brighter

Although pothos is well known for tolerating lower-light conditions, November is a good time to reconsider where to place pothos in your home. With shorter days and weaker winter sunlight, a spot that provided plenty of light during summer may now be too dark.

Ideally, place your pothos somewhere that receives bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is a particularly good choice, while south- or west-facing windows can also work if the foliage is protected from harsh direct sunlight. If your plant needs raising closer to a window, an attractive plant stand from IKEA is a practical addition.

Variegated pothos varieties, such as Marble Queen and Pearls and Jade, need sufficient indirect light to maintain their distinctive leaf patterns. If your home is particularly dark, an LED grow light from Amazon can provide some additional illumination. Avoid leaving pothos in a dark corner simply because it tolerates shade, as its growth may slow and its foliage may lose some vibrancy.

3. Keep It Away From Cold Drafts and Radiators

Pothos is a tropical plant, so maintaining a relatively warm and consistent indoor temperature is important as November temperatures drop. Check where your plant is positioned, particularly if it sits on a windowsill, near an exterior door or close to a heating vent. Cold drafts can damage the foliage, while the hot, dry air from radiators and heating systems can cause leaves to develop brown, crispy edges.

Try to keep your pothos at a comfortable room temperature and avoid moving it between particularly warm and cold environments. A digital indoor thermometer and hygrometer from Amazon can help you monitor temperature and humidity around your plant.

If indoor heating makes the air particularly dry, a small Levoit cool-mist humidifier from Amazon can help improve the surrounding conditions. If you usually keep your pothos near a window, make sure its leaves are not touching cold glass, especially overnight.

4. Give the Leaves a Little Extra Attention

With less natural light in November, keeping your pothos leaves clean helps it make the most of the daylight it gets. Dust gradually accumulates on the broad, glossy leaves, so take a few minutes to wipe them gently with a soft, damp cloth, supporting each leaf as you clean. Alternatively, microfiber plant-cleaning gloves from Amazon make it easy to reach around delicate leaves and remove dust without damaging the foliage.

This is also a useful opportunity to inspect the plant more closely. Look underneath the leaves and along the stems for signs of common houseplant pests, including spider mites and mealybugs. If you spot an infestation, Bonide Insecticidal Soap can help tackle common pests, as long as the label lists your plant and the pest. Test on a small area first.

5. Hold Back on Fertilizer Until Spring

It can be tempting to keep feeding your pothos throughout the year, particularly if you are keen to encourage long, trailing stems. However, November is generally a good time to reduce or stop fertilizing. As the plant enters a period of slower growth, it has less need for the additional nutrients supplied by houseplant fertilizer. Continuing to feed when it is not actively growing can result in an unnecessary build-up of nutrients in the soil.

Put your regular feeding routine on hold for the winter, then resume using a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer once new growth begins to appear in spring. A Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from Walmart or Espoma Organic Indoor and Outdoor Plant Food from Amazon are both options to consider when it's time to restart feeding.

There is no need to compensate for slower growth by giving your plant additional fertilizer. Maintaining suitable light, temperature and watering conditions is far more important at this time of year.

6. Tidy Up Long or Damaged Vines

November is not the time for extensive pruning, but you can still prune pothos lightly if its stems have become particularly long, straggly or uneven. Use a pair of Fiskars Loop Micro-Tip Garden Snips from Amazon to remove damaged leaves and trim back any vines that have outgrown their space. This can help keep the plant looking neat, particularly if you grow it in a hanging basket or on a high shelf.

If you want to encourage a fuller appearance, you can also take a few stem cuttings to propagate new pothos plants. Each cutting should include at least one node, which is the small bump on the stem where roots can develop. Place the cuttings in a Fiskars glass propagation station filled with water until roots form.

However, if your pothos is looking healthy and you are happy with its shape, there is no need to prune it simply because November has arrived. More substantial pruning and repotting are generally best left until spring, when the plant is returning to active growth.

Pothos is easy to care for, but a few seasonal adjustments in November will help it through the winter. Focus on maintaining healthy foliage, avoiding overwatering and providing consistent warmth and light. With the right care now, your plant will be ready for fresh growth when spring arrives.

It's almost time for Christmas cacti to take center stage with their bright, festive blooms. While you may think of the classic red Christmas cactus, these holiday houseplants actually come in a wide range of amazing colors – perfect for slotting into any decor scheme.

Christmas cactus care can be pretty particular, especially considering you need to keep your Christmas cactus in the dark for several weeks before you want it to bloom. But, when those tubular flowers finally open, it's an explosion of color that's worth the wait. Whether you opt for a red Christmas cactus from The Sill or a pink Christmas cactus from Amazon, these beauties are sure to bring some joy to your holiday celebrations and beyond. There are also some more unusual Christmas cactus plants for something less traditional. Take this peach Christmas cactus from Walmart or this purple Christmas cactus from Amazon, for example.

It's important to note the difference between Christmas cactus and Thanksgiving cactus, with the former having scalloped leaves and the latter toothed. In many cases, holiday cacti are labeled and sold as the same plant from retailers, but an observation of the leaf shape help you identify it. Plus, even if you have a Thanksgiving cactus, you can still get it to bloom for Christmas with careful care.

Here, we've gathered 12 of the most striking holiday cactus plants to shop in time for the holidays.

Don't forget to also pick up a pot for a trailing Christmas cactus to make the most of your new houseplant. Pots that hang from the ceiling (like this one from Amazon for example) allow the Christmas cacti's long stems to cascade in all their glory. It makes for an eye-catching living spectacle in your home.

There are also several Christmas cactus mistakes you should watch out for when caring for your holiday houseplant. Watering too frequently could rot its roots and stems, and placing it in a particularly dry room may cause its buds to drop off before they get the chance to open.

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North America is not short of captivating birds. Whether resident species or fleeting migratory visitors from elsewhere, U.S. birdlife is rich and rewarding.

One native species that gardeners in some regions may see more of now, is the cedar waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum). Why? Because these birds 'flock up' in the fall – and love berries. What's more, fall fruits can sustain them for some time.

Growing plants for birds is one of the best ways to encourage cedar waxwings to your yard. From shrubs, like this silky dogwood from Plant Addicts, to hawthorns and serviceberries, find out the fall favorites for these fruit-loving birds, according to experts.

Why You May Notice More Cedar Waxwings in the Fall

Cedar waxwings are resident year-round in the U.S., but their presence can be seen in different regions at different times – and not always predictably.

'As with many birds, when they are breeding in the summer, cedar waxwings may become quite difficult to spot, or may even leave your area,' explains Mhairi McFarlane, PhD, Habitat Stewardship Manager, Cornell Lab of Ornithology.

'However, they often start to congregate by late summer and can be found in quite large flocks during the winter. In general, during November, they are present from southern Canada coast to coast and as far south as northern Mexico and the Florida coast. They are sparse or absent in higher and drier desert systems in the west.'

Michael L. P. Retter, Editor, North American Birds, explains that in the summer when cedar waxwings are paired off, they are less likely to flock. 'In fall, they start to flock up, and as fall progresses, the flocks get larger. By winter you can see hundreds of birds together,' he says.

'Generally, cedar waxwings are around in the southern tier in the winter and in the northern tier in the summer. However, these frugivorous birds have to go where the fruit is,' says Michael.

'If it's been a good year for setting fruit, they will stick around, but if there has been a drought and there isn't much, they will move on, even to somewhere new. Their movements can be rather nomadic.'

What Attracts Cedar Waxwings?

As already outlined, these birds love fruit – and unlike many other avians – can survive on this diet for several months. Native trees, shrubs and plants with fall or winter berries are a "must-have" if you want to encourage cedar waxwings to your yard in November.

'Native fruit producing trees, shrubs and vines will attract and support cedar waxwings, and other birds,' says Mhairi. 'Select native plants which have fruit which persists as late as possible, including cedar, hawthorn and winterberry.

'Ideally, if you have space, include different native species which flower and fruit at different times, so you can support birds for longer.'

Native to North America, the appropriately named winterberry from Plant Addicts produces bright red berries through fall into winter. While the black berries on this Autumn Brilliance serviceberry tree from Nature Hill's attracts multiple bird species.

'Mulberries, native grapes, blackberries, hackberries, serviceberries and raspberries are their favorites,' says Michael. 'On the west coast, cedar waxwings love Toyon; they also eat juniper. In the eastern US and Canada, they love eastern red cedar, which is where they get their name from as they're often seen eating the cones.'

'Ornamental shrubs and trees in gardens with fruit and berries that remain on the plant into the late fall or winter could be a magnet for this nomadic species,' says Steve Roels, program director, American Bird Conservancy. 'A flock of waxwings could potentially show up in your garden if such fruit is abundant.'

How to Make Your Yard More Welcoming for Cedar Waxwings

Growing the trees and shrubs mentioned (that are native to your region), with staggered fruiting times, is the best way to support and encourage these charming creatures.

'Succession planting is ideal,' says Michael. 'We have a lot of native hollies in the U.S., so those are a good choice. In southern parts cedar waxwings adore Yaupon holly. In cooler areas out west, they love mountain ash too.'

Although cedar waxwings can survive on fruit alone for a while, they do eat insects and invertebrates too. Creating a welcoming habitat where these social birds can flock and forage for a protein source will also bring more of them to your yard.

'Cedar waxwings love fruit and eat it year-round, but they also supplement their diet with insects,' says Mhairi. 'Growing a suite of native plants supports the insect community which they and other birds need. A good mix would be native trees and shrubs which produce fruit, along with some native grasses and wildflowers to support a more complete ecosystem.'

Native to large swathes of the USA, this Blond Ambition Blue Grama Grass from Nature Hill's thrives in zones 3-10 and attracts pollinators and songbirds.

Provide A Water Source

Garden ponds, water features and bird baths all offer opportunities for cedar waxwings and other overwintering avians to sip and splash around, which is integral for their survival.

'Of course, the best thing we can do is plant their native food sources,' says Michael. 'But water is important, and particularly so for waxwings because of their fruit diet. When it's cold they start eating desiccated, dried and even fermented fruits. So they need to be hydrated in order to process it.'

Bird baths that are large, wide, and relatively shallow are best for these andmay other birds. 'At this time of year, cedar waxwings often rove around in flocks, so that gives everyone some space to bathe,' says Mhairi.

'In general, large water features, with a variety of depths, can support the largest variety of wildlife. Just make sure there are some shallow spots, with some rocks or logs in deeper zones to help smaller species clamber in and out.'

Mhairi recommends that any ground-mounted systems have some open, clear sides. 'This is so that birds have a good view of any approaching predators, and a clear escape route,' she says.

This large river stone bird bath from Etsy can be placed on the ground and can withstand all of the elements.

Plants To Avoid Growing

As worthwhile as growing the native trees, shrubs and plants that cedar waxwings thrive on, is avoiding those that harm them. These tend to be non-native species.

'Given the chance, cedar waxwings will eat nandina (heavenly bamboo),' says Michael. 'It has beautiful coral red fruits, but they are toxic to cedar waxwings as these birds didn't evolve to eat them.

'Another imported plant to avoid, that they love, is privet. It's not toxic to them but it's destructive to their habitat. Privet destroys woodlands and smothers out native plants that fruit at different times, leaving a monoculture that fruits for three weeks, so there is nothing left for them to eat.

'The same thing happens in the north with amur honeysuckle and tatarian honeysuckle, so they are best avoided too.'

'Taking care to plant only native shrubs for this species is best, because waxwings will readily disperse seeds and can facilitate the spread of non-native invasive shrubs like Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) and Amur Honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii),' adds Steve.

'Chemical analyses of fruits have shown that native shrubs tend to produce more nutrient-rich fruits than invasive plant species as well. Servicebery (Amelanchier spp.) Winterberry (Ilex verticillata), American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana), and native hawthorns (Crataegus spp.) are attractive shrubs and small trees that will bring in Cedar Waxwings.'

What to Shop

Prevent Window Strikes

Michael explains that because these birds eat fermented fruit and travel in big flocks, they're sometimes inebriated and distracted by their flock mates. 'A tipsy waxwing is more likely to fly into your window and kill itself than other bird species,' he says. 'It's common in late winter when fruit has fermented to find a group of waxwings that have perished from hitting a window.'

Michael recommends creating patterns of dots or lines on windows, whether applied with stickers, transfers or just a marker pen.

'Spacing dots or lines around 1.5-2 inches apart is very effective,' he says. 'Having a regular pattern breaks up the reflection that they are seeing. Windows and cats are the biggest cause of bird fatalities.'

'As a species that is very comfortable around our homes, it is important to note that waxwings are at risk from outdoor cats,' says Steve. 'They are especially vulnerable when feeding on low shrubs close to the ground. The easiest way to keep wild birds safe is to keep pet cats indoors.

'The landscaping that brings waxwings into our yards also increases the risk of window collisions. Treating home windows is an easy, inexpensive step and a problem anyone can help solve.'

This Avi-Dot bird saver window stencil from Etsy enables you to easily mark windows with removable dots, during migration seasons and other times when birds flock in large groups and are more prone to window strikes.

If cedar waxwings are resident in your region this season, the best way to feed these birds in winter is by growing their favorite native fruits and berries. Consider other ways to help them too, such as preventing window strikes, providing water, keeping cats indoors and removing harmful plants.

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Just because the days are getting shorter and temperatures are dropping, it doesn’t mean you can’t still have a colorful, textural garden.

I have been on a quest for winter garden ideas and found some special heucheras that are guaranteed to impress. The new Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series is inspired by dragon lore and features deep, rich foliage and unique serrated foliage like dragon wings.

If you want something different for year-round color and a plant sure to become a talking point in your garden, any of the seven new heuchera varieties in the line tick all the right boxes. Of all of them, I am a fan of the heuchera Fyre Wing ‘Heliodor’ (available at Plant Addicts) with lime-green foliage tinted with orange when young. The foliage appears to glow and will remain evergreen in milder climates.

What Are Heuchera Fyre Wing Plants

Heuchera, also known as coral bells, makes a great winter plant for pots and borders. The gorgeous perennial plants are suited to a wide variety of climates, from USDA hardiness zones 4-9

When planning a winter garden, some of the best plants have vibrant foliage year-round for interest and structure. Plants like heuchera, winter heather, ophiopogon, and bergenia tick all those boxes.

Heuchera are evergreen in milder climates and semi-evergreen in colder areas. The wide palette of foliage makes heuchera so popular. The color spectrum runs from neon green to warm peach to almost black, with varieties like Heuchera 'Caramel' (available at Nature Hills) and Heuchera 'Palace Purple' among the most popular.

The foliage of different heucheras can be smooth, ruffled, lacy, or hand-shaped. However, the Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series has been bred to showcase a new, unique foliage form. This sets it apart from others and will really stand out in any garden.

The series is a range inspired by dragon lore and precious gemstones. Each has foliage that echoes its namesake gem and unfurls like finely laced dragon wings.

Speaking about the heuchera Fyre Wing series, Chuck Pavlich, director of new product development at Terra Nova Nurseries, claims the series has a ‘one in a million quality’. He said upon release: ‘The deeply cut, lace-like foliage creates a level of texture and dimension that hasn't existed until now.’

How to Use Fyre Wing Plants

The seven varieties in the Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series range in shade from the lime green ‘Heliodor’ to the black ‘Jet’.

There is likely a plant to match any garden style or planting scheme. The emerald-green ‘Jadeite’ (get a Fyre Wing Jadeite Heuchera at Plant Addicts) will freshen up mixed plantings, while the purple-bronze ‘Spinel’ can provide real contrast against brighter colors or white blooms in flower beds or containers.

In seasonal plantings, the rich golden ‘Amber’ and the copper of ‘Hematite’ (get a Fyre Wing Hematite Heuchera at Plant Addicts) complement existing fall color around the yard and work well with the blue, burgundy, or cream blooms of winter-flowering violas, pansies, or primroses.

Each in the Fyre Wing series features the eye-catching, deeply cut, dragon wing-like foliage, with many leaf colors developing over the season. The plants suit zones 4-9, can grow in sun or part-shade, and range from 7-11 inches tall and 12-14 inches wide, depending on the variety.

This makes them suitable for beds, borders, or growing coral bells in pots. If you are looking to add a bit of magic to your yard, these dramatic heucheras are guaranteed to do just that. Plant them along the edges of flower beds for drama, or as focal pieces in a large container or planter. You can rely on them to put on a show year-round and attract the attention of guests.

If you're after a bit of magic or lore in your yard, each variety in the Fyre Wing range comes with a birth certificate detailing the dragon’s provenance and claw print illustrations which are indicative of the foliage and the gemstone.

This added depth and mythology, along with the rare textural foliage, can support other enchanting backyard spaces, such as fairy gardens or the moonlighting trend that creates a magical feel when the sun goes down. Imagine some subtle lighting showcasing the dragon wing foliage on a darker evening.

Shop the Terra Nova Heuchera Fyre Wing Series

By carefully curating your garden with unique plants that offer vibrant color and interesting visuals year-round, you can have a beautiful space throughout the colder months.

A key part of maintaining heucheras or coral bells (whatever you prefer to call them) is knowing when to trim them each season.

As evergreen plants, pruning them in the fall robs you of any winter color. Fall trimming also exposes the tender crown to frost. The take-home message is to never cut back coral bells in the fall; instead, always do it in spring. Enjoy the plant’s winter color and texture, and add the task to your spring gardening checklist.

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Finding the perfect gift for the gardener in your life is all about choosing something that makes time spent outdoors even more enjoyable. Whether they love getting their hands dirty with planting and pruning, growing their own flowers and vegetables, or simply unwinding in the garden with a good book, there are plenty of thoughtful gifts to suit every kind of outdoor enthusiast.

In this gift guide, you'll find everything from the essential gardening tools that are often overlooked to stylish accessories and thoughtful finishing touches that make time spent outdoors even more enjoyable. We've brought together ideas to suit every kind of gardener, whether they enjoy tending to flower beds, growing their own produce or creating a beautiful space in which to relax.

Whether you're shopping for a keen grower, a garden design enthusiast or someone who simply loves spending time outside, we've curated 20 thoughtful garden gifts to inspire you – each one chosen to bring a little more joy to their favourite outdoor space.

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Now is a crucial time for the Christmas cactus, with its blooming period just around the corner. What you do over the coming weeks could make or break your display, so it's more important than ever to protect this holiday houseplant and stop its buds from falling off.

Christmas cactus care can be particular, with it needing a dark period and stable conditions to guarantee blooms by the holidays. Humidity is a key part of this to ensure those buds stay attached; if yours are dropping off, it likely means the air in its current room is too dry. That's why houseplant pros recommend keeping your Christmas cactus in the bathroom, where it can soak up extra moisture.

Here, they explain why this can make a difference and save your festive blooms – don't forget to also pick up one of the best pots to display a trailing Christmas cactus and a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to support your plant care.

The Problem with Fall

Despite its name, the Christmas cactus is actually a succulent. It's native to tropical rainforests in coastal mountain regions of south-eastern Brazil, where it thrives in higher humidity levels.

As per fall houseplant care, it's important to be aware of how our indoor heating can dry out the air and dehydrate moisture-loving houseplants, like Christmas cacti. As a result, these plants can drop their buds before they get the chance to open up, sabotaging your holiday blooms.

But, it isn't a lack of humidity alone that can cause bud drop: moving your Christmas cactus can result in bud drop if the conditions significantly change, due to these succulents needing a stable growing environment.

'The trick with a Christmas cactus is to leave it alone once the buds appear. Moving it, or letting the temperature swing when the heating turns on and off, makes it drop buds before they open,' explains Morgan Brooks, the Founder and Editor at Plant Style Home.

This means that moving your already-budded Christmas cactus to a bathroom that is significantly cooler and darker than its current position is risky and may also result in bud drop. However, if your Christmas cactus is struggling with humidity, relocating to a bathroom with stable conditions can be a lifeline – or relocate it to the bathroom after this flowering season for more success next year.

You can use this humidity meter from Walmart to determine where is best for your Christmas cactus, with 50-70% being the ideal window.

Why Keep Your Christmas Cactus in the Bathroom?

One of the easiest ways to increase humidity for indoor plants is by keeping them in the bathroom. The best bathroom plants are those that love some extra moisture, as they can handle the humidity from shower steam.

'As long as the bathroom has good natural light a Christmas cactus will thrive there. They love mist and humidity,' says plant expert and interior plant designer, Shane Pliska.

'Many people assume because 'cactus' is in the name that the Christmas cactus must require an arid environment. These are in fact epiphytes native to tropical rainforests and love humidity,' he explains.

Don't forget, however, that this won't automatically fix your Christmas cacti's bud drop. Your bathroom still needs to be bright and warm (between 60-70°F) to help your plant retain its buds and stay happy.

Likewise, if your Christmas cactus is already budding and your bathroom is too cool or dark, it's best to turn to other methods to boost humidity. This includes using a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) or even a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

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There are a few other Christmas cactus mistakes to be aware of to ensure you still get a beautiful festive display. This includes watering your plant too frequently – these succulents are susceptible to houseplant root rot, so it's best to let the top few inches of soil dry out.

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New houseplant varieties are constantly being introduced, bringing fabulous silhouettes, colors, and patterns that quickly become must-haves for indoor plant collectors. One trend that's been steadily gaining popularity is golden houseplants, with vibrant yellow-toned foliage standing out amongst more familiar deep greens.

Costa Farms' indoor plant expert and author of the upcoming book The New Complete Guide to Houseplants (available to pre-order from Amazon), Justin Hancock, says golden foliage is a trend he's seen gradually finding its way into households over the past year, and one he expects to continue growing as we head into 2027. Think chartreuse foliage brightening up darker corners and lime-green vines cascading down bookshelves. For Justin, the appeal reflects a growing understanding of the mood-boosting effects houseplants can have.

'The stereotypical deep green leaves of popular houseplants are starting to fade into the background, while golden foliage calls your attention and can't be ignored,' he says.

Brightening Up Interiors

In recent years, variegated houseplants have been all the rage, bringing intriguing colors and patterns into our homes. Now, another foliage trend is catching the attention of plant parents: golden leaves.

'I've been seeing gold houseplants slowly rise in popularity,' says Justin. 'It makes sense. In darker homes, bright golden foliage really adds something, while deep green leaves don't stand out,' he continues.

This is especially true considering many golden plants (like this golden pothos from Amazon) can tolerate lower light, making them ideal picks for duller spots in the home – though, they will usually grow best in bright, indirect light.

There's also a growing interest in the ways houseplants can influence our mental and physical wellbeing. From the principles of Feng Shui, which associate certain plants with abundance and positive energy, to research into houseplants that improve our microbiome, and even indoor plants that clean the air.

'I really appreciate having houseplants all around me. There's just something about taking a moment to look away from your work screen and observe plant leaves in your office, for example. It can soothe the eyes,' Justin describes.

Golden houseplants add to this, offering a visual lift through their brighter foliage. Their vibrant leaves bring a sense of light to interiors, exuding a richness that is emphasized when paired with a sophisticated vessel, like golden hammered plant pot from Wayfair (our collection of stylish houseplant pots has more to discover).

The Best Golden Houseplants

As for finding the perfect golden houseplant for your home, Justin has a few recommendations (and don't forget to stock up on your essential houseplant care kit to help keep your new plant happy).

Neon Pothos

'Neon pothos is a classic,' says Justin.

With bright chartreuse foliage and a fast-growing trailing habit, this is one of the best pothos varieties for golden and lime-green foliage. The best part? It's super straightforward to care for.

'I have been seeing more interest and uptake in a lot of the, the easy care varieties. As our collections grow, there's something to be said for having those plants that I don't need to fuss over,' Justin says.

Find a neon pothos at Walmart. Give it a bright-medium light position out of direct sun (which may scorch its delicate leaves), allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before watering, and use a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) to give it a humidity boost.

Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile'

Something a little bit more unusual, Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile' is Justin's favorite golden houseplant.

'It's really fun. It has toothed leaves that are long and narrow,' he describes.

Only introduced to the market within the last three years, this philodendron is one of the best for bright yellow color and interesting texture. It's almost fern-like in its foliage, doing best in bright light, out of direct sunlight and cold drafts.

You can find a Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile' at Lowe's.

Dracaena 'Limelight'

As for an indoor tree, Dracaena 'Limelight' reaches a height of 5-7ft, topped with sword-shaped glossy golden foliage.

These golden houseplants are best kept in brighter light to maintain their vibrancy and should be kept warm in temperatures between 65-85°F to avoid discoloration and drooping. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) can also help identify when the top 1-2 inches of soil have dried out, indicating it's time to water again.

Pick up a Dracaena 'Limelight' from Amazon.

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The bonus of introducing some golden houseplants to your interiors now is that it'll bring some fall color indoors. Alongside the best indoor plants for fall, and even golden fall plants in your yard, you can turn your home and garden into the ultimate seasonal display.

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As its name suggests, Mother of Thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) is a succulent with a reputation for multiplying. Hailing from Madagascar and also known as the alligator plant or Mexican hat plant, it readily reproduces on its own and is also incredibly easy to propagate.

Commonly grown as an indoor succulent, a Mother of Thousands grows to three feet tall and its fleshy leaves are edged with small plantlets. These plantlets fall from the plant but also offer the quickest way to propagate Mother of Thousands, as they are readily available and root easily.

Mother of Thousands differs from Mother of Millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis), but both plants are straightforward to propagate. If you know how to propagate Mother of Thousands, you can expand your indoor plant collection and have new plants for friends, family, and neighbors. Here are two ways to do it: from plantlets and from cuttings. For both, you need a good houseplant soil, like this organic indoor potting mix on Amazon.

How to Propagate Mother of Thousands From Plantlets

It is easy to get lots of new Mother of Thousands plants using the baby plantlets that form all along the leaf margins. These small offsets root easily, so effortlessly that they often fall from the plant and root wherever they land.

This is not desirable; you can end up with lots of babies where you don’t want them. Thankfully, you can propagate Mother of Thousands in a less chaotic way using these baby plantlets in 4 simple steps:

• Remove the baby plantlets: Mother of Thousands is an easy houseplant to propagate in fall and winter, when the plantlets are mature and drop naturally. It is not limited to then, though, as you can propagate mature plantlets throughout the year. Mature plantlets have tiny leaves and some mini roots. When they show all the right characteristics, gently remove them from the leaves with your fingers or tweezers (available at Walmart) before they fall off on their own. To boost your chances of success, make sure they have at least two or three roots when you detach them.
• Put the plantlets in soil: Prepare trays or small pots with a well-draining potting mix. The best material to propagate plants in is a mix formulated especially for cuttings, like this plant propagation potting mix on Amazon. Put the separated plantlets on the surface and gently push the roots into the potting mix. Don’t bury the plantlets deeply; they just need contact with the soil to establish roots. They naturally fall from the plant and root wherever they land, which is evidence they don’t need precision planting to start growing. Place the container of plantlets where they can get lots of bright, indirect sunlight.
• Mist the plantlets: Keep the soil damp, but not too wet. The safest way is to mist the soil after you plant the babies, then repeat when the soil dries out. It would be a houseplant propagation mistake to waterlog the soil, as that will certainly result in the plantlet rotting rather than rooting. You can get a vintage glass mister at Walmart that makes a beautiful addition to any propagation station.
• Replant once roots form: After a few weeks, the plantlets will likely have developed a new root system. At this point, pot them up into an individual container. Always wait for a good root system to develop. A good sign they have rooted is when you feel some resistance when you gently pull – only gently, as you don’t want to risk snapping those fresh roots. Use a well-draining potting soil for indoor plants, like this houseplant potting soil at Amazon. Carefully lever the baby plant out of the soil and place it into the new pot. Bury the roots, but keep the foliage above the soil line. Water gently and keep the soil moist but not too wet going forward.

How to Propagate Mother of Thousands From Cuttings

Mother of Thousands is also an easy houseplant to grow from stem cuttings in late spring to early summer. It is a slower way to start new plants than by plantlets, but it is a reliable method.

Taking plant cuttings is a way to trim back tall or leggy plants and get new specimens for a houseplant collection. Here’s how to propagate Mother of Thousands from cuttings:

1. Take a 2-4 inch cutting of a healthy stem with a pair of sharp pruning snips (available at Amazon)
2. Place the cutting somewhere warm and dry to callus over for a few days
3. Dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone (you can get rooting hormone powder from Walmart)
4. Place the cutting into a pot filled with a succulent potting mix (like this at Amazon)
5. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity
6. Place the container where it can get lots of bright, indirect light
7. Water lightly and don’t water again until the soil starts drying out
8. Once the cutting has developed roots after a few weeks, it can be potted up

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Growing Mother of Thousands might not be for every household, as the foliage is toxic to pets. All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans.

If you have an inquisitive pet at home, our guide to the best pet-safe indoor plants includes alternatives you may prefer.

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Bedding plants for fall color can be more than a last burst of flowers. Combine foliage, berries, and grasses in a restrained palette, and the display can keep its structure well beyond the first frost.

This five-plant scheme pairs dark leaves with coppery new growth, red berries, and fine-textured grass.

For more seasonal planting inspiration, there’s plenty to consider in what to plant in November, especially if your soil is still workable. A good perennial spade from Amazon makes planting and arranging the smaller plants easier.

1. Coral bells (Heuchera)

Coral bells (Heuchera) bring a low, sculptural mound of foliage to the composition and I simply can't get enough of them. Look for plum, burgundy, or near-black varieties as they give the planting depth, and their color makes nearby copper fronds and bright berries feel even more vivid. The effect is contemporary without feeling cold.

Use heuchera near the front of a border, where its leaves can be seen up close, or as the anchor plant in a generous container.

I like repeating the same cultivar in small groups; a few deliberate echoes usually look more designed than a collection of unrelated leaf colors.

Most heucheras prefer partial or dappled shade, though some dark-leaved varieties tolerate more sun. Good drainage is important, since a crown sitting in cold, wet soil can rot.

Heuchera is valued for its foliage, so it keeps contributing after its small summer flowers have passed. They have a general hardiness range of Zones 4–9, with some varieties hardy to Zone 3, but do check the plant tag for the cultivar you choose. H&G’s guide to fall container plants has more inspiration for combining foliage in pots. To compare colors, browse coral bells at Plant Addicts.

2. Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora)

Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) earns its name through the copper-red color of its emerging fronds, which mature to glossy green. It brings a softer, more intricate texture than the broad heuchera leaves, and gives the planting a glow without relying on flowers.

Place it beside heuchera in a part-shade border or a large container that won’t dry out quickly. Autumn fern prefers consistently moist, well-drained soil and protection from harsh afternoon sun.

It is best suited to Zones 5–11 , though winter behavior varies by climate. It is evergreen in warmer regions and may be semi-evergreen farther north if you're lucky. Frost tolerance is not the same as keeping every frond pristine through winter.

The design trick is to let the fern’s finer texture contrast with the rounded forms around it. I’d use it in loose groups beneath a tree or near a sheltered porch, then let its foliage overlap slightly with the heuchera.

For more ideas about using ferns and perennials in containers, you might like our guide to fall container recipes. You can look for autumn fern at The Home Depot; check the listing and growing zone before buying.

3. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’)

Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum ‘Shenandoah’) brings vertical movement and fine seedheads, balancing the rounded foliage below. Its blue-green leaves can take on burgundy and orange tones as the season progresses. When frost catches the seedheads, the grass turns into a delicate screen that moves in the wind.

In a border, place it behind the lower heuchera and wintergreen, allowing enough space for the clump to reach its mature size. ‘Shenandoah’ typically grows around three to four feet tall and is listed for Zones 5–9, but confirm local suitability and the plant’s final dimensions before planting.

It needs sun to develop its best color and form, so it may be happier in a brighter part of the bed than the fern and hellebore.

The contrast between the upright grass and low, glossy leaves is what makes this scheme feel designed rather than simply seasonal. I prefer one strong clump as a focal point over several scattered grasses competing for attention.

H&G’s fall plant guide offers further choices for adding late-season texture. For my favorite cultivar, check out ‘Shenandoah’ switchgrass at Nature Hills.

4. Creeping wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens)

Creeping wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) is a low-growing evergreen groundcover with glossy leaves and red berries that can persist from fall into spring. In this palette, the berries act like small punctuation marks that creates vivid detail among the dark foliage and muted grasses.

Wintergreen prefers acidic soil and partial shade, making it a natural companion for autumn fern and hellebore. It is hardy to USDA Zone 3 but it can be slow to spread, so use several plants if you want coverage quickly. It also needs moist, well-drained soil; a hot, dry site is unlikely to suit it.

In a border, plant wintergreen at the front where the berries are easy to notice. In a container, give it enough room to creep around the base of taller plants, and use an acidic potting mix appropriate for acid-loving plants.

These fall planter ideas show how foliage and seasonal accents can work in porch displays. Look for wintergreen plants at Plant Addicts as the range of varieties they stock is sure to suit every taste.

5. Hellebores (Helleborus)

Hellebores (Helleborus) contribute leathery foliage through the colder months and flowers that often open in late winter or early spring. Their nodding blooms are a quieter finish than a big sweep of color, which suits this palette of deep leaves, fine grass, and berries.

Plant hellebores where they receive partial shade and have room to form a clump. Many are hardy in Zones 4–9, depending on the species and cultivar. They need well-drained soil, especially in winter; sitting in waterlogged ground is a reliable way to lose a plant - trust me! In colder areas, a sheltered position helps protect flowers and foliage from harsh wind.

I like to place a hellebore where it can be seen from a path or window, rather than hiding it at the back of the bed. Its flowers are often angled downward, so a close vantage point matters. Our winter-flowering plant guide has more ideas for color through the colder months. One of my go-to cultivars is Hellebore 'True Love' from Plant Addicts due to its double flowers and show stopping colour.

These plants don’t all want identical conditions: switchgrass needs sun, while autumn fern, wintergreen, and hellebores favor partial shade. In a border with changing light, place the grass in the brighter section and group the shade-lovers together. If the yard doesn’t offer both conditions, use separate containers and group them visually on a porch or patio.

Repeat the dark foliage and copper tones across the arrangement, and let the berries provide the strongest accent. Water plants in after planting, then keep containers evenly moist while roots establish. A light layer of mulch can help moderate soil moisture and temperature; keep it away from crowns and stems.

The result is a fall display built to change gracefully, with new fern fronds, shifting grass color, evergreen leaves, and berries that persist as flowers elsewhere in the garden fade. Depending on the plants’ hardiness and your local exposure, some details may retreat after a hard freeze, but the composition will still have shape and texture.

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When it comes to winterizing the yard, your container garden shouldn't be overlooked. Roots are exposed to the elements and excess moisture can become trapped in the pot, putting them at risk of rot and damage.

But with the help of one of the best winterizing tools – these Amazon resin pot feet – you can ensure your potted plants stay safe through winter. Pot feet sit underneath containers, elevating them so excess moisture can drain away while improving airflow to roots. It's a simple solution to keep your pots safe and healthy, so they return with new growth in spring.

I love the fact these Amazon ones also have an attractive green finish, adding to the look of a container display rather than solely being functional – I would even keep them in place year-round. Here's why they're the container gardening tool worth getting your hands on this winter.

A Winter Essential

There's a reason why pot feet are on our list of tiny garden tools that solve surprisingly big problems. These simple tools stop excess moisture becoming trapped in containers, keeping roots strong and healthy through the harsher seasons.

It's a simple way to protect container plants from winter weather, but also helps protect pots and planters from frost by keeping clay pots off freezing slabs and keeping them sturdy, reducing the risk of damage.

In fact, pot feet are also useful to use in spring and summer, helping with moisture management and improving airflow to roots during humid conditions. Alongside a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon), this can help avoid crucial container gardening mistakes.

Pot feet also come in a wide range of designs, including these resin rabbit pot feet on Amazon, so you can use them as decorative accents for your container display year-round.

What Shoppers Say

The Amazon resin pot feet have 4.5 stars from shoppers who are pleased with their quality.

'The build quality is very good. At first I thought they were small, but they actually work well for [my] 17" tall pot. They are very stable,' one five star reviewer writes.

The product description says these pot feet are best suited to 14-20 inch pots, making them versatile for use in a mixed plant pot display. It's often best to use three per pot, but this of course depends on the size of your planter. The lip on each pot foot holds the container in place so it won't fall and break.

'The design is simple but attractive, and they feel stable even with heavier pots. A small but very useful addition for any garden,' another person notes.

You can also use pot feet for indoor plants, adding height and improving the growing environment for them.

'They help improve drainage and airflow, which is great for indoor plants,' a shopper shares.

It is hard to find a downside to these Amazon resin pot feet, especially considering they are so affordable and available in a wide range of other colors, including these terracotta pot feet on Amazon.

Perhaps the only issue is that you only get six pot feet in the pack, potentially only support 2-3 containers. However, for just $23.99 ($21.99 on the current deal), I think it's worth stocking up on a few packs to use in a larger container garden.

What to Shop

As well as improving drainage for your potted plants, there are a few winter container gardening mistakes to avoid. This includes not mulching or insulating pots to ensure plant roots don't freeze and become damaged.

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Rosemary is a glorious, almost universally popular Mediterranean shrub. It offers a wonderful combination of evergreen foliage, delicate flowers, and, of course, the aromatic foliage it is famous for. Whether you use rosemary for culinary, medicinal, or skincare purposes, the plant often needs TLC to prepare it for winter, and November is a prime time to put a plan in place.

The plant, now known as Salvia rosmarinus rather than the Rosmarinus officinalis name it was known by for many years, can be moved indoors for winter or left outdoors and given protection from the elements. Cold, wet winter conditions do pose a danger to plants, but they are fairly easy to prevent – especially if you know what to do with rosemary plants in November.

Rosemary is hardy in US hardiness zones 8-10 and can overwinter outdoors in zone 7 with some protection. Gardeners in colder climates need to protect their plants this month. If you want to grow rosemary in these zones without the extra effort, plant a cold-hardy variety like ‘Arp’. You can buy a pack of 4 live Rosemary ‘Arp’ plants on Amazon suitable for cold climates down to US hardiness zone 6.

Move Potted Rosemary Indoors

Growing herbs in pots is a vital way for anyone with small spaces or heavy soil to cultivate Mediterranean plants like rosemary, thyme, and oregano. If you get cold winters, you can overwinter rosemary in containers by bringing it indoors to see it through the freezing months.

It is an ideal solution for anyone in US hardiness zone 7 or below, where winters get too cold for rosemary. Even in milder climates, it is recommended to at least move pots to a protected area in the yard, as plants in containers are never as hardy as their in-ground counterparts.

Bring potted plants indoors to a bright position where they can get six to eight hours of sunlight daily, such as a sunny windowsill. Do this in November before nighttime temperatures consistently get down to under 45°F. You should check the plant for pests before bringing it indoors – any unwanted guests can be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal soap, available at Walmart.

Large rosemary shrubs will need to remain outdoors and be protected in another way – which we’ll get to next. But smaller plants can be lifted from the ground and potted up into containers filled with a well-draining potting mix, such as this organic potting mix from Burpee.

Cover Plants for Cold Nights

In zones 7 and below, rosemary plants are grateful for added protection against freezing temperatures that can blacken the evergreen foliage or cause dieback.

This can be done in several ways in November. A strong solution is to cover smaller rosemary plants with a portable cold frame (like this polycarbonate cold frame at The Home Depot) to provide essential insulation and safeguard against plunging temperatures, cold wind, and freezing rain over winter.

Such a fix doesn’t need to be permanent for the entire season, especially if you don’t get prolonged deep freezes. Frost cloth or old sheets can be put over the plants for freezing nights and taken off again during the day.

In preparation, build a tent-like structure over the rosemary plants with bamboo canes (also available at The Home Depot). Then you can put the material over that and tie it in place when needed, rather than place it directly onto the rosemary, as the frost cloth can freeze itself to the plant and rip the leaves or bark when you attempt to remove it.

You can use frost cloth (also known as horticultural fleece), burlap, blankets, or old bed sheets to protect against frost. The one material to avoid is plastic, as it encourages moisture and makes the plant more susceptible to mold.

Mulch Plants

Mulching around the roots is a proven way to protect rosemary plants’ roots from freezing winter weather. It’s a job to do before the ground freezes this month, so add it to your fall gardening checklist for the coming weeks.

It is a sound tactic in zone 7 and below, especially key in zones 6 and 5, because it insulates the roots, prevents frost heave, and helps smother weeds. Even in zone 8, where the plant may not need winter protection so urgently, mulching rosemary in the fall brings benefits, especially for younger plants that may not be fully established.

The crucial aspect with rosemary is choosing the right type of mulch. Many plants want compost or well-rotted manure, but these hold lots of moisture over winter, and rosemary dislikes sitting in cold, wet soil.

Instead, use lighter materials for rosemary, such as straw (you can get a bag of garden straw mulch at Lowe’s), shredded leaves, pine needles, or bark chips. These insulate the ground and protect the roots, without risking holding excess water and causing rot.

Lightly Prune Plants

You can lightly trim rosemary in November, but definitely don’t do any hard pruning. It is a quick tidy rather than a major overhaul, and certainly never prune into the oldest woody stems at this time of year.

If the plant will be outdoors in winter, keep your rosemary pruning this month to removing dead, damaged, or diseased stems. This will help keep it healthy over the upcoming winter.

If you are bringing the plant indoors for winter, you can do a bit more shaping or trimming to make it fit better on a windowsill. You should still be able to carefully harvest rosemary over winter indoors, but do so sparingly and don’t cut large swathes of stems.

Always use clean, sharp pruning tools for any pruning in November. A pocket-sized tool sharpener like this from Amazon can quickly sharpen the blade of any pruners or loppers.

Reduce Watering

It has been mentioned more than once here that rosemary doesn’t like sitting in wet soil. Come November, you can most likely stop watering rosemary plants growing outdoors, unless they are in a cold frame or a protected area where they don’t get much natural rainfall.

It can be easy to overwater outdoor plants – unfortunately, rosemary and waterlogged soil don’t play well together, and the usual result is root rot. Take extra care with watering plants this month and consider using a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, to see how much water is already in the soil before adding any more.

Lift rosemary in outdoor containers on pot feet so they drain well, and remove any saucers from underneath to stop them sitting in water. You can get a pack of rubber, non-slip pot feet at Walmart.

What to Shop

Rosemary plants can get woody and leggy over the years. You can do some hard pruning in spring and early summer to revitalize woody rosemary plants, cutting as low as possible without going into the bare wood.

Around the same time, it may also be advisable to propagate rosemary from cuttings in case your shrubs don’t respond as you’d like. You’ll get exact clones of the existing bush that can replace your old ones down the line.

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Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus) are one of the most popular Christmas bulbs, with slender stems topped by dainty white, highly fragrant blooms. They brighten up interiors for the holidays and make for exquisite living arrangements, but success in growing them is all to do with planting the bulbs at the right time.

If you're considering forcing bulbs indoors for the holidays, now is the time to pick up your paperwhite bulbs (which you can find at Walmart). Growing paperwhites is fairly straightforward: plant them 4-6 weeks before you want blooms, provide plenty of bright light, and keep them consistently watered.

But, it isn't as straightforward as planting and leaving them alone. Here, a flower growing expert talks through the exact window to plant your paperwhite bulbs for Christmas and two different methods to use (pick up an elegant bulb vase to get started).

When to Plant Paperwhites

Paperwhites are some of the best indoor bulbs to force for Christmas, and you can grow them in both soil and water. Either way, a bit of planning is needed to time planting in time for a holiday display.

'I grow hundreds of paperwhites each year to keep the flowers blooming over winter. Most paperwhites start blooming 4-6 weeks from planting,' says flower farmer-florist, Joey McFarland.

'Since the blooms themselves will last for a week or more once they’ve opened, it’s best to start on the earlier side. I recommend starting Christmas paperwhites by mid-November,' she continues.

Forcing spring-flowering bulbs essentially works by providing the bulbs with an ideal growing environment indoors prior to the natural, seasonal conditions. It tricks them into breaking dormancy and blooming earlier than they're meant to.

Unlike other indoor bulbs, like hyacinths (this hyacinth forcing vase from Amazon is ideal for these bulbs), crocus, and tulips, paperwhites don't require a chilling period to trigger growth. This is thanks to their Mediterranean native habitat, where the milder winter conditions are enough to trigger growth – warmth and moisture indoors does the trick.

If you want flowering paperwhites indoors throughout the holiday season and beyond, plant new bulbs every two weeks from October to January and enjoy staggered blooming.

Keep in mind that temperature can also influence the speed of growth. Warmer temperatures between 68-75°F can encourage faster blooming, sometimes as soon as three weeks after planting. If you want to delay blooming, position your planted paperwhites in a cooler spot (between 65-70°F, which you can monitor with this Walmart room thermometer). This will also help encourage sturdier stems as the shoots appear.

As for how to go about planting them, there are two different techniques to use: either in water or soil.

How to Grow Paperwhites in Water

'My preferred planting method is in water. Select a vessel at least four inches tall. Fill the bottom 2-3 inches with pebbles or stones. Nestle your paperwhite bulbs into the stones. Fill with water until it’s just touching the bottom of the bulbs. Soon the bulbs will start forming roots,' says Joey.

To force bulbs in water successfully, Joey says to take care not to submerge the bulbs in the water, as this can cause rot.

'Paperwhites can grow quite tall so using a taller vessel can help support the heavy stems. You can also stake them or tie them together with a festive ribbon,' Joey recommends.

This tall bulb forcing glass from Amazon is designed to keep the paperwhite bulb out the water to avoid this issue.

Don't forget to refresh the water frequently to keep it clean and topped up. A houseplant watering can with a narrow spout (like this black metal one from Amazon) can make this much more convenient to do.

How to Grow Paperwhites in Soil

Even though paperwhites are one of the best indoor bulbs to grow in water, it is just as straightforward to force bulbs in soil – opt for this Wayfair terracotta pot to get the rustic look above.

It's best to choose a shallow container with a drainage hole to manage moisture. A well-draining potting mix is also wise, like this Miracle-Gro potting mix from Lowe's.

The pointed side of the bulb should be facing upwards, but you don't need to bury the bulb – leave the neck exposed.

Keep the bulbs well-watered but not soggy. Brighter light will also keep the stems upright and avoid flopping.

What to Shop

As well as using forced bulbs for festive arrangements, consider adding some holiday houseplants into the mix. Paperwhites look beautiful among red poinsettias, for example, and can add some height alongside your Christmas cactus.

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With a sprinkling of luck and a little low sunlight to set off your star plants, November can be a beautiful month in the garden. In fact, it can be golden. Which is exactly what we need to keep the spirits high when the nights are drawing in.

To help your backyard shine this month, I've picked a stellar line-up of trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses for a November glow. From the butter-yellows of fall foliage stars and the last dahlias to the burnished buff and amber of some of my favourite ornamental grasses, it's a palette to warm and soothe the soul.

While it may be tempting to leave the fall gardening jobs at the gate and hunker down inside, I promise you won't regret getting out there on a sunny day and appreciating what's looking good. And if you find your garden lacking, it's not too late. There's still time to plant before the frosts set in, whether that's for fall interest or for the gardening year to come. I've got my eye on a 'Brooks Road' Ginkgo tree from Garden Good Direct – its neat upright shape is perfect for smaller gardens like mine.

Mahonia

For golden late-fall colour in flower form, top prize has to go to the wonderful group of shrubs that are mahonias.

Most begin flowering in late autumn and continue until early spring, with long flower spikes decked in lily-of-the-valley-scented yellow-orange blooms, which are a magnet for hungry late-season pollinators. In fact, they're one of a select group of plants that look better in fall than summer.

So what comes first in any mahonia growing guide? You need to know that they're ideal for the back of a shaded or partly shaded border, where their dramatic glossy green evergreen spiked foliage creates a handsome foil for a huge range of other shade-tolerant shrubs and perennials.

They're tough, easygoing plants too, thriving in most kinds of soil and needing very little in the way of pruning or shaping. Just let them get on with it and they'll flower for years.

Some of the best varieties for the earliest flowers include Mahonia nitens 'Cabaret' (USDA Zones 6-8), which begins its flowering display in late summer, its orange buds opening to cheerful yellow. Mahonia 'Volcano' (USDA Zones 7-9) begins to bloom in September, with coppery buds opening to golden yellow.

Then there's Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun', (USDA Zones 5-9) a November starter with sunny yellow flowers – its grows to around 16ft (5m), so it's one for a big garden. Finally, try Mahonia 'Soft Caress' (USDA Zones 5-9) from Perfect Plants, a more compact variety with no prickles and bright yellow flowers from late autumn to early spring.

Ginkgo Biloba

Plant a Ginkgo biloba and you'll be investing in one of the most ancient trees to exist, its fossils dating back 170 million years.

More importantly perhaps, you'll be providing year-round joy in the garden, with a spectacular burst of butter-yellow fall foliage to enjoy in November.

Ginkgo, or the maidenhair tree, is one for a large garden, as it will eventually grow to around (25m). How to grow a ginkgo tree? Well, the basics are that it thrives in a sunny spot in any kind of soil and won't need pruning, but do put in some decent tree stakes to stabilise it in its formative years. 'Autumn Gold', available from Nature Hills, is a particularly colorful cultivar.

Feather Reed Grass

'Karl Foerster' is one of my favorite ornamental grasses, brilliant in smaller backyards too as it's very neat and upright, shooting up in early spring, flowering in summer then holding on to its handsome soft yellow-buff seedheads right into winter.

When you're thinking about landscaping with ornamental grasses, planted en masse (find feather reed grass at Nature Hills), it makes a useful and beautiful feathery screen to around 6ft (1.8m) in height in a sunny spot. Ideal for USDA Zones 5-9.

It needs nothing more than to be cut down to the ground in late winter so it can begin its growth cycle once more.

Carex Testacea

One of the brightest, most vibrant ornamental grasses in fall, Carex testacea is a tough New Zealand native with elegant arching leaves that turn yellow-orange in fall.

Most aren't too challenging in terms of how to grow ornamental grasses. This one is no exception, growing to around 2ft (60cm) in height and spread – the cultivar 'Prairie Fire', available at Nature Hills, is particularly colorful.

Plant it towards the front of a border, somewhere the low fall sun will light up its foliage – it deserves that forethought, and you'll love the glowing result.

Combined with dahlias in fall tones (see below) it's glorious. It's also good in a pot, ideally a nice tall one so the fountain-like foliage can cascade unimpeded over the sides.

USDA Zones 6-10

Witch Hazel

This large shrub or small tree is one of the best witch hazel varieties – you can buy American witch hazel at Garden Goods Direct.

It's stunning during the cooler months of the year when, from mid fall, its flowers open like pale yellow crumpled pompoms or spiders, with a sweet, almost clove-like perfume, and the leaves turn to golden tones.

This is the witch hazel from which medicinal witch-hazel extract is made, and it's a fantastic plant, reaching around 23ft (7m) with handsome spreading branches.

Plant it in sun or part shade, in a sheltered spot tucked away from harsh winds. Underplanted with Carex testacea it makes a stunning fall focal point in a large backyard.

Hydrangea Petiolaris

A much underrated plant in my opinion, the climbing hydrangea offers so much throughout the seasons. In summer, its flat white sprays of flowers cover the plant, while in fall its leaves turn a charming soft yellow before they fall. Even in winter its deep rust-brown textured stems bring interest.

It's super useful too, growing up and over a north-facing wall or fence with grace and elegance where little else thrives. I have one covering a deeply shaded fence, where it's incredibly happy.

In the border below it Mahonias add to the golden glow in fall. You can buy climbing hydrangea at Garden Goods Direct. How to grow a climbing hydrangea really isn't too challenging either, it just needs some decent soil and a touch of patience.

USDA Zones 4-8

Dahlias

It's true that most dahlias are at their peak in around September, but there are plenty that are going strong into November, especially if you live in a sheltered spot or one of the warmer, more western US Zones.

In mid to late autumn it's mainly the pompom, ball and smaller dahlias that are still flowering – simply because the huge dinnerplate varieties use up their flowering energy more quickly.

And they'll go on until the first frosts if you keep cutting back the spent flower stems – one of the most important aspects of learning how to grow dahlias. 'Yellow Jill', 'Golden torch', 'Sunny Boy' are particularly well known for their extended flowering periods, so look out for them online.

I tend to grow my dahlias in pots, then at this time of year pop them into gaps in borders. The yellow ones combine particularly well with the ornamental grasses I mentioned earlier, Carex testacea and Calamagrostis 'Karl Foerster', creating pools of honeyed light in the garden.

What to Shop

A big mistake a lot of gardeners make at this time of year is to give up on their outdoor space. There's still so much pleasure to be had, and fall is the perfect time of year to plant.

Enjoy the pleasures of the late season garden with my seven glorious picks for a golden fall garden. They'll bring joy to the garden and happiness to your soul.

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Alpines are tough plants, popular for being pretty, hardy, versatile, and low-maintenance. You may not think that this rugged group of plants needs winter protection, but neglect them at your own risk. The one thing that harms alpines in winter more than anything else is wetness.

Cold isn’t usually an issue over winter, but waterlogging during the colder months is an alpine plant’s nemesis. Stopping them from sitting wet for extended periods is key to overwintering alpine plants.

Thankfully, overwintering alpine plants isn’t too difficult. Either cover rock garden plants in situ with a cold frame, mini greenhouse (such as this at The Home Depot), or a cloche, and move potted ones indoors for winter. This prevents the roots or crown from rotting. Maintaining airflow is vital too, so fungal issues don’t build up and affect plants over winter.

The Hidden Danger of Winter Wet

Alpine plants naturally grow in tough conditions, often at high altitudes and in climates with intense sun, strong winds, and cold winters. Over the years, they have evolved to cope with these harsh environments.

For home gardens, this means alpines are drought-tolerant plants that can thrive in poorer soils. These low-maintenance plants need little watering or feeding once established, which has helped make them popular choices over the years.

With that in mind, overwintering alpine plants might sound unnecessary. However, one key difference between their natural habitats and most home gardens makes overwintering plants a balancing act – and one you need to get right.

It is not freezing temperatures that usually kill alpine plants in winter; it is waterlogging. Alpine plants usually grow at altitude and sit under an insulating layer of snow over winter. These winters are cold and dry. The snow protects them from icy winds and rain, and when it melts, the lean, rocky soil drains quickly.

This is not often the case in home gardens, where winters are usually wet and mild. Alpines aren’t protected from freezing rain, waterlogged soil, or repeated freezing and thawing, which can lift plants from the soil (known as frost heave). Long periods of sitting in cold, sodden soil can signal the demise of alpines.

The danger stems from the fact that alpines don’t absorb much moisture during winter. Jessica Mercer, Horticulturist at Plant Addicts, explains: ‘During wet winters, water fills the air spaces around the roots and deprives the roots of oxygen. Over time, the roots and crown can rot.’

‘Plants with hairy or woolly foliage (e.g. edelweiss, pussytoes, and partridge feather) trap more water near the crown and thus are more susceptible to crown rot,' she adds.

Such hairy or woolly plants, including spring-flowering alpine varieties of pulsatilla and saxifraga, won’t use all that extra water they store during winter and can quickly decay unless protected from the elements.

How to Protect Plants From Rot

Overwintering alpine plants will differ depending on where you grow them. Plants in a rock or crevice garden need protection in place, while potted plants in container gardens can be transferred to a sheltered spot.

Alpines in the Ground

Sensitive hairy and woolly foliage plants in rock, crevice, or gravel gardens can be covered for winter. This can be done with a cold frame, a garden cloche, glass panes, or plastic sheeting. The latter two need securing in place, and plastic sheets should be staked to keep them from blowing away.

‘When I lived in Seattle, where winters are mild but wet, I grew cold-hardy dryland plants in my rock garden under clear mini cloches all winter,’ claims Jessica Mercer. ‘These included sulfur buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum), beavertail cactus (Opuntia basilaris), and Agave ‘Blue Glow’.’

A portable cold frame like this on The Home Depot protects plants from the worst winter weather. On warmer days, remember to open the vents for essential air circulation.

Garden cloches (like these at Walmart) offer the same protection. Any leftover glass panes from renovations and plastic sheets over garden hoops make budget-friendly DIY cloche alternatives.

Alpines in Pots

Move potted alpines for winter to protect containers from frost and freezing rain. Plants are more susceptible to freezes in containers and should not be left outdoors, as they risk sitting waterlogged when temperatures plunge during winter.

An ideal place to overwinter alpine plants in pots is an unheated greenhouse, alpine house, cold frame, or porch. Keep plants somewhere warm and dry. On warm days, open the doors or lids of the greenhouse or cold frame so air circulates freely, rather than sitting damp and humid to risk fungal problems.

If you don’t have an indoor structure, you can move pots under the eaves. For extra drainage, Morgan Brooks, the Founder and Editor at Plant Style Home, advises: ‘I raise every pot on pot feet or bricks and tilt it slightly so rain runs off, and I plant in a gritty mix of compost, sharp sand and fine gravel.’

You can get a pack of pot feet at Walmart to raise containers over winter. To prevent waterlogging, check each pot’s drainage holes before winter to make sure they are not blocked and are allowing excess water to flow away.

What to Shop

FAQs

Do You Need to Water Alpines Over Winter?

Watering is a very delicate balance when overwintering alpine plants. The general rule is that they require very little water over winter, as you don’t want them sitting in waterlogged soil. Check the moisture levels every few weeks to avoid the soil drying out, especially when plants are protected from the elements.

‘Water when the mix feels dry about an inch or two down,' advises Jessica Mercer from Plant Addicts. ‘Pots in a cold frame or greenhouse can heat up quickly in afternoon sun and may dry out more quickly as a result.’

You can check the soil beneath the surface with your fingers, or a soil moisture meter available on Amazon is an alternative option that gives instant results.

November is a prime month to look around the garden, think about which plants you need to protect from frost, and how best to do it. Useful kit like cold frames, frost cloth, and mulch helps protect plants in beds and borders.

Plants both large and small need some TLC ahead of winter. It may be that larger tender plants need wrapping in November, such as tree ferns, banana trees, or tropical hibiscus. For this, use frost cloth, burlap, or special winter plant covers.

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When it comes to finding the perfect gift for the garden enthusiast in your life, you have plenty of options to explore. Whether they like getting their hands dirty planting and pruning or find refuge in their garden at the end of the day with a good book, there are plenty of carefully crafted tools and beautiful accessories that make for thoughtful gifts.

In this gift guide, you'll find not only the tools every gardener needs but neglects to buy, but also stylish accessories that have practical purposes. From this McGee & Co. rattan gardening tray for collecting homegrown crops and flowers, to this Terrain gardener's salve to soothe tired hands after a hard day's work, these items turn every moment in the garden into something special.

If you're looking for something more decorative, the Home Depot's lotus rain chain transforms into a mesmerizing spectacle, or gift this Serena & Lily outdoor lantern to the person who finds themselves out on their patio more than anywhere else in the home.

Below, we've curated 20 of our favorite garden gifts that will delight any outdoor lover and help them indulge in the thing they love to do most.

If you know anyone new to gardening, why not help them stock up on the essential gardening tools to tick off seasonal tasks?

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Growing amaryllis and paperwhites in bulb vases is a lovely way to bring some life indoors over winter, particularly during the holiday season. While you can force bulbs in pots of soil, growing them in glass means you can watch every stage, from the first roots to the blooms, and specially designed vases make it easy to get started.

For planting amaryllis, a classic bulb vase works well. These are designed with a cup or narrow neck to hold the bulb so its base sits just above the water, while the roots grow down into the vase below. Amaryllis bulbs tend to be large, so look for an opening that's wide enough to hold the bulb securely, with enough height to balance the tall flower stems, like this hand-blown bulb vase from Terrain or this recycled glass amaryllis vase from Wayfair.

Paperwhites are more flexible. You can plant a single bulb in a narrow-necked vase, but when growing paperwhites, they usually look best planted in a cluster on a bed of pebbles. Glass hurricane vases work particularly well, as their tall sides help to support the stems as they grow. This green pine-etched glass hurricane from Crate & Barrel feels suitably seasonal, while a glass hurricane with a woven rattan base (like this one from Target), brings a natural texture to the display.

We've rounded up 16 of the best bulb vases for growing amaryllis and paperwhites, from premium hand-blown designs to simple, more practical vases for under $10. Most will work for cut stems once the bulbs have finished flowering, too.

Once your bulbs are in, keep the water topped up to just below the base of each bulb, and move the vase somewhere bright as the shoots appear so the stems don't stretch. And if you'd like even more color indoors over the coming months, it's worth planting indoor hyacinths now. They'll flower in late winter, just as your amaryllis and paperwhites are fading.

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With striking silhouettes and intriguing colors, there's no doubt agave brings drama to the landscape. In the garden their impressive height and spread can make them a natural focal point amongst planting. Not to mention, their drought-tolerance and ability to thrive in hot conditions make them an excellent choice for a water-wise garden.

A perfect example, in this Pasadena garden agaves tower alongside cacti and other desert plants. The biggest varieties are ideal for creating some coverage and privacy, like the Century Plant from Tress.com which reaches 4-6ft tall. Or, opt for something with finer foliage, like this Twin Flower Agave from Trees.com which, as its name indicates, is loved for its masses of yellow blooms.

If you want to make a real statement, colorful agaves are the way to go. Moonglow Mangave from Nature Hills (a hybrid agave and manfreda) has a striking spotted pattern on fleshy blue-green leaves. Meanwhile, Desert Diamond Agave (which you can find at Walmart) is a compact succulent with rosettes of green and white leaves. Smaller varieties like this are best for container growing, just like this Sabertooth Tiger Agave from Amazon.

Ideal for gravel gardens, patio planting, sweeping drought-tolerant borders, and (in some cases) as houseplants, there are so many different agaves to discover. Here, we've compiled our top 16 agaves to shop.

If you do add an agave to your garden, don't forget to read up on how to overwinter agave. Generally speaking, these amazing plants are hardy across USDA zones 8-11 and benefit from winter protection. Those grown in pots can be relocated to a frost-free location, while those planted in the ground can be covered with a frost cloth (like this from Amazon). It's important that their crown doesn't get wet to avoid rot and decay.

As for looking for companion plants for your new agave, our guide to plants to create a desert garden has lots of ideas to curate a dreamy drought-tolerant planting scheme in your yard.

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Not all autumn gardens are rich in traditional burnt hues and fallen leaves. In California, where the temperatures are still comfortably hitting 80°F, we see a different landscape. One of structured, drought-tolerant planting and still-lush foliage.

When landscape designer John Sharp set out to create this garden in Pasadena, the brief was a feeling as much as a plan. The owners wanted to bring a sense of childhood wonder to create a family-friendly garden, evoking the character of a naturalistic Californian native landscape while still feeling intentional and livable.

The garden occupies the majority of the 11,700 sq-ft site and wraps around a house designed between 1909 and 1911 by architect Louis du Puget Millar, whose work reflects the Arts and Crafts movement. It's located on an oak-lined street, where dense tree coverage create a naturally shaded atmosphere.

The space is designed to feel expansive while still maintaining a sense of privacy beneath the mature oak canopy.

‘The garden is organized as a series of distinct outdoor enclaves and wellness areas, designed to function as a collection of open-air rooms,' says John Sharp. ‘Each zone offers a different experience, from more active, family-oriented spaces to quieter, more intimate areas for retreat and reflection.’

The design approach of the house balances respect for the structure’s Arts and Crafts character with a more contemporary, lived-in warmth, incorporating natural materials, curated vintage elements and artistic details collected over time.

The result is an interior that feels cohesive with the garden beyond. John says one of the key questions was exactly that connection.

‘One of the biggest challenges was ensuring the landscape felt like a natural extension of the historic residence rather than a contemporary addition,’ he says.

‘We were intentional about material selections, favoring a timeless and grounded palette while still allowing for a new design language to emerge that felt interesting and esoteric. The goal was to create a garden that felt as though it had always belonged to the property, yet still carried its own distinct voice.’

Undoubtedly, a stand out feature of this garden is the exquisite pool. Enclosed by mature trees, the pool is the part of the garden the owner had long dreamed of, reminiscent of the one he grew up with.

Working closely with the family, the Studio John Sharp team developed a terracotta tile striped pool design that extends the interior language of the home into the landscape.

‘The result is a private garden sanctuary that functions both as a place of childhood imagination and adult gathering,’ says John.

‘It has become a setting for family cookouts and evenings spent around the custom fire pit, surrounded by organic boulders that double as informal seating.

'Ceramic pendant lights cast a dreamlike glow through the trees, while bells from the Arcosanti foundry add a subtle, wind-driven soundscape that transforms the garden into a fairytale.’

The front yard was designed as a natural playscape for the owners’ two young daughters, and features a rock labyrinth woven with edible plants and herbs.

Fruiting trees, herbs and drought-tolerant species were chosen for both structure and usability, including a selection of amazing agaves.

'Fall is a beautiful time to plant, specifically California natives,' says John. 'This year in particular, with the influence of El Niño, we anticipate seasonal rainfall that can naturally support the establishment of plant material, reducing the reliance on supplemental irrigation.

'The cooler temperatures and increased moisture also create favorable conditions for roots to establish before the warmer months arrive. It’s also a fantastic time to transplant and avoid plant shock during summer heat waves.'

Edible elements were integrated throughout the garden to support everyday cooking and a more hands-on relationship with the landscape.

‘The overall effect is a garden that feels naturalistic and wild, while still feeling intentional,' describes John.

‘Mature citrus and persimmon trees are woven into the site, reinforcing the sense of abundance and seasonality throughout the property.’

Terracotta tones, organic flagstone and decomposed granite were chosen for their warmth, permeability and ability to age naturally within the landscape over time.

‘Together, they create a grounded, earthy foundation that complements the planting palette and reinforces the garden’s sense of continuity with the surrounding environment,’ says John. ‘The overall effect is subtle and cohesive, allowing texture and material variation to define the character of the space.’

The intention was a garden that feels elevated yet relaxed, equally suited to everyday family life and more atmospheric evening gatherings. ‘This balance was achieved through a contrast of strong architectural elements and a more naturalistic planting approach,’ says John.

‘Defined features such as the pool and fire element provide structure, while a wild, organic planting palette softens the landscape and allows it to evolve and grow in a more effortless, natural way over time.’

Landscape Design: Studio John Sharp @studiojohnsharp

Photography: Joyce Kim @jokimbo

Production: Karine Monié @karinemonie

Temperatures are dropping and the nights are drawing in. Before the first frosts arrive, some tender, tropical, or subtropical plants in your garden might need to be put to bed for the winter. Wrapping these frost-sensitive plants keeps them safely tucked up and protected from freezing conditions.

Giving popular trees and shrubs like tree ferns, bananas, citrus, tender palms, or tropical hibiscus a cozy, insulated layer of frost cloth or burlap protects the plants from frost. It is an alternative way to shield them from potentially damaging winter weather if you don’t have space to lift and bring them indoors.

Here are five tender plants to wrap in November, along with easy-to-follow recommendations for how to keep them protected. If you plan to use frost cloth, also known as horticultural fleece or row covers, choose a thicker heavyweight type, such as this super heavyweight row cover on Amazon, which protects down to 20°F.

1. Tree Fern

Statuesque, textural tree ferns are always dramatic additions to any garden. They are hardy in zones 9 and 10 but will need protection from the winter cold in zone 8.

If you have the space, you can lift the plants and overwinter them in a greenhouse or frost-free spot. Otherwise, wrapping tree ferns is the best way to protect them from frost. This is what we did every winter at one historic garden I worked in.

When you grow tree ferns, their crowns are highly vulnerable to cold and wet, so the growing point is the priority when wrapping plants for winter.

To winterize tree ferns, tie the fronds together (you can cut them off in climates with milder winters, but I prefer to keep them for extra protection) and then pack the crown with straw or hessian to insulate it.

With the crown packed and protected, wrap the entire trunk in frost cloth or burlap (you can get a natural burlap roll at Walmart) and tie it in place with string to keep it secure.

2. Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus varieties only survive outdoors in zones 9-11. To enjoy the vivid trumpet-shaped blooms of the tropical plants year after year, you need to learn how to winterize hibiscus.

The simplest way is to grow hibiscus that need winter protection in pots; then move them indoors once the temperatures drop. However, this is not always possible, but it is not impossible to overwinter these hibiscus outdoors in areas that get light frosts each winter.

In colder climates, a key job to do with hibiscus in the fall is to mulch the roots. Then you can prune the hibiscus back by up to a third with sharp pruners and wrap the plants with thick-grade frost cloth to insulate them from frosts.

Use bamboo poles (available at The Home Depot) to build a tent structure around the hibiscus, and drape the frost cloth over it. Secure the covering to the ground with bricks or landscaping staples (available at Lowe’s) to keep it in place and prevent cold drafts from getting in.

3. Citrus Trees

Some citrus trees are hardier than others. However, any citrus tree will only tolerate temperatures down to 25-28°F for a short time before suffering damage in the form of wilting leaves or blackened tips.

The hardier citrus trees can live year-round outdoors in zone 8, but more tender types will need protection, and all citrus need extra winter care in zones 7 and below. Plus, young trees are not as hardy as older ones, so newly planted trees need winter protection in their early years.

People usually overwinter citrus trees in one of two ways. One is to grow citrus trees in pots and move them indoors before the frosts arrive. The other is to leave them outdoors and use frost cloth, burlap, or tree covers (available at Amazon) to wrap them and protect them from frost damage.

4. Banana

Bananas can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or wrapped and protected in place before the first hard frost. Tender banana trees always need protection, while even popular cold-hardy banana trees in the Musa genus need to be wrapped in US hardiness zones 5-8.

The extent to which you need to overwinter banana trees will depend on your climate. It all starts with removing the leaves and making a sloping cut above the top of the stem, so moisture runs away over winter.

When you grow banana trees in milder climates, a layer of frost cloth topped with a layer of burlap can suffice.

However, in colder zones with deep winter cold, it needs to be something a bit more insulating. This comes in the form of a chicken wire cage around the trunk that you pack with straw, leaves, or fleece. You can get a roll of galvanized steel chicken wire fencing at Lowe’s.

A layer of mulch around the tree is also recommended to insulate the roots from frost.

5. Tender Palms

Tropical and subtropical palm trees are frost-sensitive. Some hardy palms, such as the Trachycarpus species, can overwinter outdoors down to zone 6, but most fall into the tropical or subtropical category and need winter protection.

The crown is the most delicate part. To protect the palm trees in winter, stuff fleece around the crown, bundle the fronds together, and wrap them with string or twine. This keeps them in place and prevents frost from penetrating the growing point.

Then, wrap the tied fronds and the trunk in frost cloth to insulate against the cold. You can also use burlap or blankets, but never wrap trees in plastic, as it traps moisture and causes mold.

A pop-up plant protection tent from Amazon can be used to cover smaller palm trees and other borderline-hardy shrubs that need winter protection.

Mulching around palm trees in winter with two inches or more of bark (such as this bag of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s), wood chips, or compost offers a beneficial layer of insulation for the roots.

What to Shop

It is not all about simply putting the garden to bed in November. It is also a month for adding trees, shrubs, perennials, and spring bulbs to the garden.

You can plant in November, as long as the soil is workable and not waterlogged or frozen. Yes, spend time protecting and preparing before winter, but also set some aside for new additions to add to the display next year.

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While the garden settles down for winter, our indoor plants still need plenty of attention. From overwatering to reduced daylight, there are several seasonal challenges to navigate. One that often gets overlooked is indoor heating.

While many indoor plant parents know to protect their plants from cold drafts, Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms and author of the upcoming book The New Complete Guide to Houseplants (available to pre-order from Amazon), warns that turning on the heat can bring a different challenge. Warm, dry air can dehydrate plants, cause yellowing leaves, pest problems, and even plant death – and Justin reveals houseplants with thinner leaves are among those most at risk.

Speaking to Homes & Gardens, he explains why thin-leaved plants are particularly vulnerable, which houseplants to look out for, and how to protect them in winter (don't forget to have your houseplant care kit to hand).

The Danger of Heating

Winter houseplant care can be easy to neglect, particularly when plants aren't showing many signs of growth. However, this doesn't mean they should be ignored – winter is the time to pay attention to challenging indoor conditions that put your plants at risk.

'We tend to think of our homes as being a consistent environment and disconnected from the outside world, but this isn't true,' Justin says. 'The biggest thing is that the light and temperature change in winter,' he explains.

Justin points out that houseplants experience much more sudden temperature changes indoors than in their natural environment, particularly when exposed to direct heat. This can cause heat stress, dehydration, and yellowing and crisping leaves.

'If you have a plant next to a fireplace or a heating vent, the air coming out of there is so much warmer because it has to heat the room, and it can be stressful on the plant,' he explains.

Prolonged exposure to this dry air can even create ideal conditions for houseplant pests (particularly spider mites) putting your houseplant at even greater risk.

'As our heaters go on, we see spider mites reproduce a little bit faster. An egg can hatch into an adult, mature, and lay more eggs all in just seven days. So if you're really not monitoring it, those populations explode fast,' Justin notes.

But this doesn't mean you need to keep your heating off to protect your houseplants. Instead, it's about managing their environment carefully, especially for those most vulnerable.

Which Houseplants Are Most at Risk?

'As a general rule, the thinner the leaf, the more delicate a plant tends to be. So, plants like your ferns and calatheas are going to be a little bit more temperamental to those type of environment changes,' Justin explains.

Plants with fleshy, waxy leaves, such as succulents, ZZ plants, and snake plants, tend to store more water in their foliage, helping them cope better with drier periods. In contrast, plants with thinner leaves have less capacity to retain moisture, making them more susceptible to water loss when exposed to the dry air caused by indoor heating.

These are some of the houseplants most at risk:

• Ferns
• Calatheas
• Peace lily
• Prayer plant
• Ivy
• Polka dot plant
• Nerve plant

How to Protect Them

To protect houseplants from central heating, Justin says the solution is simple.

'It's best to watch the draft sources, both cold and warm. Pay attention to things like your heating vent and where the air is coming out. That can often be as simple as moving your plant just a tiny bit so it's no longer in the path of the air.

'If you have a fireplace, the mantle could be a terrible place for a houseplant, even though it looks beautiful there,' he adds.

A room thermometer (like this from Walmart) can help monitor temperatures more accurately. Generally speaking, 60-75°F is the sweet spot for the majority of plants.

Watering correctly during can also help with moisture management and ensure your houseplants don't become dehydrated or oversaturated. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) is essential for this, giving you an instant reading to determine if your plant needs watering.

Likewise, increasing humidity for indoor plants can help counter dry winter air. You can move plants close together, use a pebble humidity tray, or a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

What to Shop

It's important to also protect your houseplants from cold temperatures this season, as cold damage can likewise weaken plants. Luckily there are plenty of ways to keep houseplants warm in winter without relying on harsh heaters. Burlap (like this from Amazon), for example, is a breathable material that can be used to insulate plant pots in particularly chilly rooms.

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A drip irrigation system is a great tool for watering plants in the warmer months. It can get neglected once the temperatures drop, though, and this can be a big mistake. It risks the system breaking or, worse, hitting you with a surprise repair bill.

You need to know when and how to winterize a drip irrigation system, as freezing temperatures can crack pipes, fittings, and valves. It can even result in large water leaks in your garden or home. To avoid this, any outdoor drip irrigation system should be shut down and drained before the first hard frost.

Winterizing any outside irrigation systems, such as drip irrigation and sprinklers, is an important part of overwintering a garden. I spoke with irrigation specialists about winterizing a drip irrigation system and the five key steps to follow.

Why You Need to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System

A drip irrigation system is an efficient way to reduce water waste in your yard while also watering your plants deeply. However, if you don’t winterize drip irrigation, you risk wasting water, damaging your system, and incurring a hefty repair bill.

Winterizing the system protects it from freeze damage, which can affect many different components.

‘Water left in irrigation lines or backflow preventers can freeze and expand, potentially cracking pipes, damaging valves, or causing backflow assembly failures,’ warns Heather Todd, brand president of Conserva Irrigation.

When the system is still connected to the tap and left full of water in winter, the damage can affect more than just the drip irrigation. It can extend into your garden or property.

Justin Wilson, owner of American Irrigation Repair, highlights brass backflow preventers as ‘usually the first things to burst’ when cold weather hits. He adds: ‘If a pipe or backflow preventer freezes and bursts, you could end up having to shut off the water supply to your entire home to stop the leak.’

Properly winterizing the system prevents damage to your home or garden from frozen pipes, which can add up depending on the extent of the repairs needed. It also ensures that the drip irrigation system is ready to use again come spring.

You can get an industrial-grade insulated winter pipe cover on Amazon to protect pipes and backflow preventers from freezing.

When to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System

Be proactive and have your system drained and shut down for winter well before temperatures drop to a level that could damage it.

‘Ideally, you should winterize your irrigation system before the first freeze of the year,’ recommends Heather Todd.

Depending on your location and US hardiness zone, the first frosts can be anywhere from early October to December.

Justin Wilson looks after irrigation systems in Central Texas, where the frosts hit late, and some years there are none at all. He says: ‘Our hardest freezes typically come in January and February. What I do is to watch the forecast and get ahead of those hard freezes.’

Monitor your local short- and long-term forecasts to get ahead of the frosts. A digital weather station, like this one on Amazon, can be installed, and sensors can be put in the garden to provide current information and forecasts for your location.

How to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System in 5 Steps

1. Turn off the water supply – Before doing anything else, switch off the water supply to the drip irrigation system at the main source, at the tap, or at a shut-off valve.
2. Open the ends and drain the irrigation lines – Remove any water in the irrigation lines. If you have end caps or plugs, remove them from the pipes and raise the tubing to allow gravity to drain the lines. Allow time for it all to drain by elevating sections and letting any residual water escape. To blow out the lines, Heather Todd adds: ‘A professional winterization service can evacuate water from the lines using pressurized air.’ An expert should blow out an irrigation system. It is an effective way to remove all the water, but compressed air can damage pipes if not done properly.
3. Remove the timer – If you have a timer on your drip irrigation system, disconnect and remove all water from it. Take out the batteries and store it in a dry, protected place for winter.
4. Protect exposed backflow preventers and valves – If your system has a backflow preventer, it needs to be drained and protected for winter. ‘Leave one exposed during a hard freeze for six or eight hours, and you’re asking for trouble,’ warns Justin Wilson. ‘Make sure it’s properly drained and insulated. Better yet, if your setup allows it, have it removed and stored somewhere warm.’ He adds: ‘Bottom line, folks, protect what’s above ground, drain what you can.’ You can insulate pipes and valves with foam pipe insulation (from Ace Hardware) or insulating tape (available at The Home Depot).
5. Store away components – tubing, drippers, control valves, fittings, and controllers are best stored for winter. Non-electrical parts can stay outside, but they risk being damaged over winter. Check each part for any cracks or damage, then store in a dry, frost-free place, such as a shed or garage. Label any storage boxes so you can easily find all the components again come spring.

What to Shop

Now you know when and how to winterize a drip irrigation system; you won’t forget each year.

However, for added peace of mind, Justin Wilson from American Irrigation Repair adds: ‘We also highly recommend a rain/freeze sensor. It’ll automatically shut your system down when it rains or freezes, giving you a little insurance in case you forget.’

You can get a rain/freeze sensor from Amazon for any home irrigation system. Just in case you forget to winterize a sprinkler system or drip irrigation.

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You can plant container-grown fruit trees and bushes throughout the main growing season, but planting bare-root specimens over the winter months can prove far more cost-effective.