With fall officially here and nights drawing in, you'll be relying on your home lighting more than ever. But, with more dependence on artificial light sources comes more electricity used and higher energy bills.

For that reason, we recommend swapping your bulbs over to these EcoSmart Dimmable LED Light Bulbs, available at Home Depot, as soon as possible.

Here's why they're an essential if you're looking to cut energy bills this fall and winter.

Why we recommend switching to these Home Depot EcoSmart bulbs

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

It's no secret that energy bills are higher in winter, attributed to common heating system mistakes and common things making your heating system work harder. What you might not have realized, though, is that your increased lighting use can have a profound effect on your monthly spending, too.

That's why we suggest replacing your bulbs with the EcoSmart Dimmable LED Light Bulbs, available at Home Depot, which will improve your home's EPC rating and keep energy bill costs down.

In fact, they boast a $0.67 saving per year, amounting to an estimated $57 total over each bulb's 15,000-hour lifetime – meaning one pack of four bulbs could save you $228, making them a worthy eco-home improvement.

What's more, the bulbs are compatible with most dimmer switches and are soft and warm, ideal for swapping out any flickering lights and making a living room cozy with lighting.

With customers saying they're 'Good light bulbs at an affordable price,' 'nice and bright,' and have been 'running over five years strong,' we're as 'sold on these' as they are.

Just remember, if you are looking to keep energy bills down, you do need to turn the lights off when you leave a room.

What to shop

FAQs

Are LED lightbulbs bad for you?

No, LED lightbulbs, luckily, are perfectly safe for humans and for your eyes. Where you may have seen information on the contrary refers, in the majority, to the negative impact of blue light from LEDs, primarily from screens like your mobile phone, tablet, or laptop, which can suppress melatonin, interfere with circadian rhythms, cause visual fatigue, and difficulty sleeping.

While this blue light is present in home lighting, the effects tend to be negligible.

Do you know about the most economical way to run heating? According to our panel of HVAC pros, smart thermostats are the star of the show.

Renting a home shouldn’t mean compromising on security. But without the freedom to drill into walls or install hardwired devices, many renters are left wondering what they can do.

The good news is our security experts have revealed four methods to boost your home’s protection without risking your deposit. From smart doorbells to better delivery habits, these renter-friendly ideas are low-effort, high-impact, and fully removable when it’s time to move.

The best security measures for a home are built around prevention – stopping opportunists before they make it to the door. We spoke to security experts about the best non-permanent tips for renters, so you can feel safer in your space, without getting on the wrong side of your landlord.

Home security tips for renters

1. Porch etiquette

It might sound obvious, but where you hide your spare keys matters more than many people think, and is the first step to securing your home without a security system.

‘Under a mat or plant pot might feel convenient, but these are the first places thieves check,’ says Edouard Rekko, a security expert at Verisure. If handing a spare to a trusted friend isn’t an option, invest in a lock box with a combination code – a safer bet that’s still renter-friendly.

Your trash is another easy-to-overlook mistake. ‘Leaving packaging from expensive items outside is like advertising what’s inside your home,’ Edouard warns. After buying gadgets or luxury goods, break down boxes and conceal brand names before disposal.

Even the way you manage deliveries can matter. Unattended parcels often signal that no one’s home, especially when paired with visible clutter or poor lighting – all of which are common signs burglars look for.

Keeping your front entry tidy, locking windows and doors (even when you’re in), and avoiding identity theft mistakes at home are all quick wins for renters. Small daily habits can be just as important as gadgets.

2. Peel-and-stick smart doorbells

To still have eyes on your front door without drilling holes into the building's exterior, Corey Birnstengel of Security.org says, 'I recommend wireless, DIY systems that use peel-and-stick sensors’.

They don’t require landlord permission and can be easily uninstalled when you move.

A video doorbell is a foundational step in setting up a smart home, and you can access the live stream remotely using your phone, or tell your Alexa or Google device to tell you when deliveries arrive. Combine with more smart tech gadgets to transform your home.

There are peel-and-stick mounts available online so that any video doorbell from the big brands can become renter-friendly:

3. Indoor security cameras

Indoor cameras are ideal for renters because they’re discreet, portable, and require no drilling. Some models even stand freely on shelves or attach with removable adhesives, offering clear footage and mobile alerts without touching the walls.

‘Stick to indoor devices unless you have landlord approval,’ says Corey. In shared buildings or house shares, a hallway camera can help monitor traffic in and out of your space – especially if paired with smart smoke detectors or motion-activated lighting for an extra layer of awareness.

Just be mindful of where your footage is stored. Some brands prioritize local storage over the cloud, which is a useful feature for anyone concerned about digital security risks from smart home gadgets.

4. No-drill mount for outdoor cameras

Just because you can’t drill outside doesn’t mean you can’t install cameras. You can find mounts that attach cameras to your home's exterior using adhesives, for whatever outdoor camera you're looking to buy.

We recommend a military dad's security picks when choosing your outdoor camera. And paired with intruder-proof hedge plants around low fences or windows, your home will be safe, private, and with no alterations on the building.

And if you’re heading out of town, check your system is ready for downtime – securing your home during the holidays takes a little forward planning, but renters can do just as much as homeowners with the right gear.

In 2025, smart home technology trends have been laser-focused on improving your quality of life, whether it's sleeping better, living sustainably, or simplifying everyday chores, including cleaning.

The newest wave of smart home must-haves is quieter, more intuitive, and easier to integrate than ever before. Forget the jargon – this year’s smart tech trends are enduringly rooted in wellness, comfort, and ease.

We’ve spoken to leading experts to find out how smart homes are evolving and how these changes can benefit you in meaningful ways.

Smart home technology trends in 2025

1. Wellness is leading the way

At the heart of the 2025 smart home is a renewed focus on living well. Lighting, air quality, and even your sleep schedule are being supported by carefully chosen technology.

‘We’re seeing a growing interest in home technology that supports health and wellness,’ says Betty Brandolino, founder and creative director of Home Environments. ‘Circadian lighting systems, for example, are becoming increasingly popular.

'These systems are programmed to be timed with the sunrise and sunset, helping to regulate sleep cycles and boost serotonin levels,’ she continues, highlighting the importance of smart tech for the bedroom.

Betty recommends lighting that can mimic natural daylight: ‘In the morning, it provides bright, cool light to boost energy and focus; by evening, it shifts to warmer, dimmer tones that encourage relaxation and melatonin production.’

Combining one of the best SAD lamps with ways to set up your bedroom to beat morning grogginess will achieve this at home. The Philips SmartSleep Wake-Up Light at Amazon is one of the best options available.

George Carrillo, CEO of the Hispanic Construction Council, is also seeing health-conscious trends take off, from air quality monitors to fall detection systems that support elderly family members, adding, ‘These innovations bring peace of mind with features that track wellness in real-time and ensure safer living spaces.’

2. Invisible tech that blends in

In 2025, smart homes are embracing subtlety. Forget clunky gadgets and flashing lights, the smart home tech that designers love is built to blend seamlessly into your home.

‘One trend we’re seeing more is the move toward “invisible” technology,’ Betty explains. ‘It’s all about that quiet luxury feel. Homeowners want their spaces to feel warm and inviting, while still benefiting from technology behind the scenes.’

She points to solutions like motorized drapes and automated dimmable lighting as key examples. These features help to shape the atmosphere without interrupting the visual flow of a room, perfect for anyone who values calm, considered design.

3. Sustainable tech is the future

Smart home tech is playing a major role in the transition to greener living – and it can save you money in the process by cutting energy bills.

‘Today’s smart home technology is helping consumers live more sustainably while saving on energy costs,’ says Laura Finson, director of project management at Brinks Home. ‘Tools like smart thermostats, solar panel integrations, and water-efficient systems provide valuable insights and automation that reduce environmental impact.’

George agrees, adding that features of sustainable design go hand-in-hand with energy efficiency: ‘Solutions such as solar panels combined with smart storage systems drastically reduce utility costs and carbon footprints. These trends are all about making life easier, safer, and more efficient.’

The good news is you don’t need to be a tech expert to get started. ‘Devices like smart thermostats and voice assistants are designed for easy setup, often guided by step-by-step apps,’ George says. More complex systems may benefit from professional installation, but there are options to suit every confidence level.

4. Smart, simple, seamless

The biggest shift this year? Smart homes are finally becoming simpler.

‘As consumers face an ever-expanding array of devices and platforms, there’s a growing demand for technology that streamlines and consolidates,’ says Will Shippee, director of business development and strategy for solar and storage at Schneider Electric.

‘We’re already seeing this happen in the home space where consumers are seeking interconnected products that reduce complexity and centralize control,’ he continues. A great example is in smart smoke detectors, which can connect to your lights and speakers at home to make sure you never miss a life-saving alert.

Smart home panels are leading this charge – intuitive interfaces that allow homeowners to manage everything from lighting to climate from a single screen. The Amazon Echo Hub is a popular option, particularly if your home has any Alexa products or Philips Hue bulbs.

Ultimately, smart homes are becoming more human. With streamlined systems, user-friendly apps, and a focus on meaningful improvement, the smart home of 2025 is built for everyday life – and it might be easier to achieve than you think.

Next, learn how to add smart kitchen technology to your home, or delve into the best robot vacuums that will let smart, automated helpers do the housework for you.

Good drainage is an essential part of every garden, but even the best-laid drains can clog up with debris.

If you're new to gardening or fear plumbing DIY, you might not want to touch your drainage systems for fear of breaking them and causing costly damage.

Thankfully, almost every type of drain is easy to unclog yourself. From catch brains to French drains, here's all you need to know about unclogging the most common types of yard drain.

1. How to unclog a catch basin

When most people refer to a 'yard drain' they mean a catch basin. DIY expert and Homes & Gardens writer Chiana Dickson explains that 'Catch basins can be found in lawns, but they're most commonly used under downspouts on patios or driveways. Catch basins 'catch' rainwater and slowly release it into pipes to prevent water systems from being overloaded with too much liquid at once.'

Thankfully, catch basins are one of the easier drains to unclog. You can usually fix them in a single step, though it can be a little gross. Remove the grate, then scoop out any debris. It's usually something so small that you can fish it out with your fingers. For bigger debris like leaves, you may have to use a hand tool like a trowel or potato scoop to remove the debris. This is usually all you have to do.

Then, run a hose over the drain to wash away any lingering debris. This will also show you if there's a block further down the pipe. If there is, you need to use a drain snake like this from Amazon to unclog the blockage, but this is simple. Just push the snake along the pipe until you meet resistance, then push against the blockage until it either breaks apart or hooks on the end of the snake - then you can either pull it of the drain or push the broken debris down the pipe.

2. How to unclog a trench drain

Trench drains are another common drain. They're usually used on patios or the boundary between a patio and lawn. They're exactly as they sound - a trench covered with a grate. Thankfully, these are also easy to unclog.

Just like a catch drain, you need to remove the grate and remove any debris by hand. It's a straightforward process, but unlike a catch drain, it can take a while. If you have 50 feet of trench drain to clear you'll find that going along the entire length with a trowel or trench shovel is a little tedious. However, it isn't a hard job. Just like with a catch drain, once the worst of the debris is removed, flush the trench with a garden hose to remove any lingering particles of leaves or mud.

If there is anything you can't remove by hand, you need to use a pressure washer to blast it out of the trench - a plumbing snake probably won't work because the cable will extend out the open trench rather than push against the debris.

3. How to unclog a swale

Swales are simple to unclog. In fact, most swales don't even have drains. Swales are wide, shallow depressions dug into a yard to collect water runoff. They're relatively uncommon in yards; you usually see them along the side of roads or pavements in residential areas. They direct water down their gentle slopes into a boggy ditch separate from the rest of the lawn, containing standing water in one area, usually planted with water-loving grasses or trees.

This means that the vast majority of swales don't even have drains, but a few do. At most, you'll see a a catch basin at the end of the swale, or a little run of pipe to another area of the yard to help deal with the worst rainfall. This makes them easy to unclog; you other follow the same method as with the catch basin above, removing debris by hand. At worst you need to run a drain snake through the end, but they usually have no more than a couple of feet of pipe, so it's usually a simple fix.

4. How to unclog a French drain

French drains are where clogs start to become more difficult. You can tell a clogged French drain because you'll see water pooling on your lawn Unlike the other drains mentioned so far, a French drain is hidden underground, which makes it much harder to clean. However, the process is similar to the other drains we've covered.

First, clear any visible debris away from any of the access points to your drain or along its length. Sometimes the problem is as obvious as mud blocking a grate by a catch basin or a drainage ditch at the end of the pipe. If this doesn't solve the issue, take a pressure washer and blast it through the drain at the uphill access point. This torrent of water usually removes blockages, but there are times when this won't work.

If the above steps haven't worked, you need a sewer snake. These tend to be slightly longer and tougher than indoor drain snakes, so they're perfect for running the length of a French drain. You can use a manual sewer snake like this from Amazon, but you might find it a lot easier on your hands to use a large electric drain snake like this from Home Depot. Depending on where you are in the country it may be more cost-effective to rent one of these, too.

Just as with the other drains, push the sewer snake down the French drain and remove any clogs, then test the drain by running water down the drain. You should also see standing water on your lawn begin to subside.

5. How to unclog a dry well

The final type of clog to consider is in a dry well, and like a French drain, these can be more difficult to solve. Also known as a soakaway, a dry well is like a large, vertical French drain. It slowly releases rainwater into your soil through a huge container of filters and rocks, helping to prevent erosion and maintain a normal level of hydration. They also help to prevent subsidence.

But this means that they are very hard to unclog. There's one clog here that's relatively easy to fix. Most dry wells are connected to an overflow spout - it's designed to give rainwater another outlet in the worst storms. However, if you notice that the overflow kicks in for any rainfall, even light rainfall, then you have a clog in the downspout that needs to be fixed. This can be solved with all the techniques above. You can flush the downspout with a hose or use a plumbing snake to remove any blockages.

However, if there's standing water around your dry well or no blockage in the downspout, you need to try a wet/dry vacuum. Plumbing snakes don't work in dry wells because the well is filled with rocks - there's nowhere to push any debris to, and no end to wash it away to because the water slowly filters through rocks into soil. That means putting a wet/dry vac down into the dry well and trying to suck up any debris.

Unfortunately, that isn't always successful, and if you can't remove the debris with the methods above then you need to dig up the whole well to check the pipes, filter fabric and rocks to ensure that everything is working as it should. That can be a lot of work, and if you aren't a fan of DIY, it can be expensive.

FAQs

Do dry creek beds clog?

Dry creek beds are another common drainage solution. Water can run slowly in a dry creek bed but they don't 'clog' in the way drains with pipes do. All you need to do to ensure a dry creek bed is working as it should is to remove any large amounts of leaves or other yard debris that might slow down water. However, in the stormiest parts of the country, a dry creek bed may not help much, so you might need to swap it out for a different drainage solution.

Clogs happen naturally, but there are some steps you can take to prevent them. Learning about the most common French drain mistakes will ensure a smooth-running French drain that solves any issues with standing water.

If front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch aren't the first thing that springs to mind when planning a front yard reset, take inspiration from the fact it's a fast, easy and budget-friendly way to elevate your space. It works in both modern and more traditional front yard designs, so whatever your style you can use these elements to spruce up your curb appeal.

As well as adding natural texture and interest to your front yard this type of landscaping leans towards sustainability ideas too, especially if you source materials locally to cut down on the high carbon cost of transportation. Choose sympathetically and you can ensure your design segues with the local landscape too, so that it feels like a natural fit.

A rocks and mulch combo is also one of the best front yard landscaping ideas for a low-maintenance gardening scheme, as it cuts down on chores like weeding and watering. Now find out our favorite front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch to inspire your design.

8 of the best front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch

Consider landscaping ideas with rocks to add character and interest to your front yard design. Rocks can be used as part of a bigger project if you're looking for ways to overhaul the yard or used in a much smaller way to add a naturalistic detail. Combined with complementary mulching ideas this offers an innovative way of landscaping that is both beautiful and natural.

1. Match your front yard design with the local landscape

Using rocks and mulch in your garden landscaping ideas can help to forge a deeper connection with nature. Even better if the materials you choose complement the surrounding environment, such as the stunning backdrop of hills and trees pictured here.

Make the most of whatever is on your own doorstep by borrowing views from the local landscape and using these to enhance the overall picture. Tapping into nature in this way is so good for your wellbeing too, as well as beautifully framing your home.

Choosing locally sourced materials is good for a cohesive look too. 'From a design perspective, I like how using local stone helps your yard resemble your regional wildlands,' says Kevin Lenhart, design director at Yardzen. 'Regionally sourced stone allows homeowners to create landscapes that reflect the unique characteristics of their environment.

'The use of local materials is not only sustainable but also strengthens the connection between the landscape and its surroundings.'

2. Use rocks to add a sculptural feature that will enhance curb appeal

If you love the idea of adding a little drama to your front yard landscaping then make large rocks or boulders your go-to. Add sculptural plants to bring together a look. Consider landscaping with succulents and cacti around rocks to create interesting points of contrast. Consider also uplighting rocks to create a bold look at night.

'Boulders are defined as rocks larger than 10 inches in diameter used in landscaping,' says landscape designer Andrea Scharff. 'They can be used for a variety of purposes. In addition to working as a landscape accent they can be used for retaining walls, ponds, and waterfalls. I think boulders add a natural element that can break up planting in a really nice fashion.'

Think carefully about how you use rocks in the landscape. 'When using decorative boulders, generally aim to use fewer, larger boulders,' says Kevin Lenhart. 'Smaller rocks placed individually can look too small to suit the scale of a large planting area. Individual, large boulders (around 2 feet or so in length) tend to hold their own more, and are large enough to act as a focal point'.

Locally sourced stone products are generally a more sustainable option for front yard rock landscaping ideas, explains Kevin, as they have less of a shipping footprint.

3. Rewild your front yard with rocks and mulch

The rewilding garden trend is huge right now, so there's never been a better time to consider embracing the organic beauty of the natural world. This is where front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch come in. As materials they lend themselves to a deconstructed look that suits rewilding well.

Large boulders combined with smaller rocks, and other types of freeform landscaping such as gravel and mulch, together with native plants, help celebrate local materials and root your design in the natural world.

A rewilded front yard will help biodiversity and support local wildlife too. Add some front yard patio ideas and you will be able to enjoy these benefits up close by sitting down to enjoy the space and deepen your relationship with nature.

4. Make sure your front yard landscaping is sustainable

With climate change foremost in our minds choosing sustainable garden landscaping for your front yard has never been more important.

A combination of rocks and mulch is a great choice for anchoring topsoil in place to stop erosion, plus locking down moisture in the soil to benefit planting and cut down on watering. This will generally help to improve drainage too, as mulch lets water seep into the ground. These are key issues for most gardeners now but especially relevant for those living in areas affected by drought.

Making as many surfaces permeable as possible also goes a long way towards achieving sustainable garden landscaping, and mulch is an ideal material for this. Run-off from paved front yards and other hardscaping can contribute to street flooding and burden storm drains, whereas mulch offers a permeable solution to lock water into your soil.

5. Choose the right type of mulch

It's important to select materials for your front yard landscaping that will be best suited for your climate, and will thrive for years to come. As there are so many types of mulch to choose from be sure you choose the right one.

'I prefer shredded bark mulch from my local landscape supply store,' says landscape designer Andrea Scharff. 'It knits together and tends to stay in place longer than smaller counterparts. I do not like anything that is bigger than a silver dollar. I'm not keen on chunky bark mulch. For me, it doesn't finish off the landscape as nicely.'

Andrea says it can be a good idea to avoid gravel mulching if you live in a hot climate. 'I don't like to use gravel as mulch because here in Southern California it tends to retain too much heat and can bake the plants.'

It's great that Andrea sources mulch in her neighborhood. 'Locally produced mulches are the best choices,' agrees Yardzen’s in-house contractor Coleman Cosby. 'In the West that might include redwood, cedar and fir mulches. In other areas, hardwood and pine mulches are common.'

Covering bare ground, especially around planting is essential to keep weed growth down and retain soil moisture. 'Both decorative gravels and mulches can serve this purpose,' adds Coleman. 'They are also very permeable surfaces that reduce run-off and help recapture ground water.' This adds up to a lot of environmental ticks for mulch.

Find bark mulch here with these 100% natural pine bark nuggets from Walmart.

6. Choose a rocks and mulch combo for a sloping front yard solution

If your front yard is on different levels and you're wondering how to design a sloping garden don't forget that rocks can be used for practical purposes as well as to enhance the look. Creating a feature such as a flight of stone steps to link different levels is an attractive addition while at the same time allowing easier access to different areas of the yard.

Rocks are a good choice for front yards with moderate elevation change, as they allow you to sculpt slopes in a way that will control erosion without needing a retaining wall.

If your front yard features gentle undulations it's easy to incorporate rocks and mulch to add visual interest and interesting walkways around the garden.

7. Use rocks and mulch as the starting point for your color scheme

Choosing an earthy color palette to complement front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch is a win-win. It means all the materials you use will complement each other.

'Aim for desaturated colors,' suggests Kevin Lenhart. 'Grays have been very popular but we see the trend swinging toward warmer neutrals like pale tans, creamy whites and terracotta. This makes outdoor spaces feel more inviting and tranquil, aligning with the natural aesthetic homeowners are gravitating toward.'

Materials like mulch and rocks tend to come in this earthy, natural color palette anyway. If you're favoring landscaping with gravel ideas the good news is it's also possible to get buff colored pea gravel like this one from Walmart instead of the usual gray.

Choosing the right colors is especially important if you live in a hot climate, adds Kevin. 'Anywhere that is hot and/or dry should aim for lighter colors when covering planting areas, so as to minimize heating of soil. This is because heating soil stresses plants and requires additional irrigation.'

8. Use rocks and mulch for firescaping

If you live in an area affected by wildfires and are looking at firescaping your property, put front yard landscaping ideas with rocks and mulch forefront. It's a great opportunity to incorporate rocks with gravel garden ideas and other ignition-resistant landscaping materials.

'In fire country, decorative rocks are a great solution in “zone 0”, the 5 foot margin along your home’s exterior,' says Kevin Lenhart. 'This can be a fire-safe, attractive solution in fire-prone areas.'

In a high fire hazard area, it's particularly important to get your choice of mulch right too as mulch can catch fire. If you’re mulching within 30 feet of your home, rather than using more combustible options like shredded pine straw or cedar, it’s preferable to use non-organic materials.

FAQs

Where is the best place to source landscaping rocks?

'The best place to source landscaping rocks is local landscape supply companies,' says Andrea Scharff. 'These tend to have the best selection of boulders. They are sold by the pound and often require equipment to move them around. If you are on a budget you can reach out to your local excavating, grading, construction and demolition companies to see if they can alert you if they come across any on a job site that would be available.'

Alternatively, check local Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace listings. 'Please note that due to the weight of boulders you may need to hire a small bobcat for the day to move them around,' adds Andrea.

Meanwhile small rock material like gravel is easy to come by at places like local landscape supply companies and Home Depot.

Once your front yard design is in place you'll need our guide on how to clean landscaping rocks to keep them looking their best. For more advice on how to add some serious curb appeal be sure to look at modern front yard landscaping ideas too.

French drains are an incredibly popular drainage solution, but they are far from the only option. In some yards, you're much better off with a soakaway.

Soakaways have lots of different applications. Also known as dry wells, they not only remove surface water on your lawn but can help with issues around the foundations of your home, too. They slowly discharge water deep into the soil where it can't do any harm, easing waterlogging around your home and garden.

I spoke to lawn experts about when and where to use a soakaway - and why it might be a smarter drainage idea than a French drain.

What is a soakaway?

A soakaway is also known as a dry well, and is a way of slowly dispersing water into the soil. This slow release prevents standing water on your lawn.

Lawn expert Jeremy Yamaguchi explains 'A soakaway is the same thing as a dry well. It’s a large basin or holding tank buried underground, often at the end of a French drain or creek bed. Water from the drain or creek is collected in the dry well and slowly disperses into the surrounding soil through its slightly porous sides.'

Another lawn expert, Ryan Farley, agrees. 'A soakaway is another method for improving drainage in your yard, aside from other options like a French drain that will divert water elsewhere,' says Ryan. 'A soakaway instead allows water to gather in a spot in your yard and then soak into the soil without waterlogging it or creating standing water.'

Are there benefits to a soakaway?

Dry wells have several benefits. The most common way to use a soakaway is to drain water away from your home. If you live somewhere stormy, the catch basins at the bottom of your downspouts might not be able to cope with the volume of water. over time, this water can erode flagstones and even cause foundational issues.

Jeremy Yamaguchi explains 'It is common for homeowners to install dry wells near gutter downspouts so that significant roof runoff does not create pools or erosion.'

Soakaways can also help with drainage on a lawn. Jeremy explains that 'Soakaways can be a great way to manage water, resolve drainage problems, and keep groundwater healthy.' If you have standing water on a lawn, a soakaway can help to absorb all the water and slowly reintroduce it deep in the soil, reducing pooling on the surface of your lawn.

Are there drawbacks to a soak away?

Soakaways aren't an instant fix, and they won't help the very worst cases of waterlogging. Though they reduce waterlogging, they still keep water in one place, so the slow release of water into the same place means that they aren't always a good option for the boggiest lawns.

Ryan Farley says 'I would not recommend a soakaway for lawns that already suffer from very poor drainage, or in areas that are receiving a high amount of rainfall. For these situations, it does tend to be better to go with a more traditional drain to divert water off your landscaping.'

On top of that, a soakaway is pretty expensive. As an example, a dry well kit like this at at Home Depot costs almost $500. That doesn't include labor if you pay for a contractor to excavate the hole for the soakaway or lay the pipes.

If you have standing water, the best solution is to use a French drain, but a soakaway can still be a good option. You can use the French drain to move all the water off the surface of the lawn before it waterlogs and direct it to a soakaway in a disused part of the yard, where it will slowly dissipate into the soil.

Are there other drainage solutions?

There are lots of other drainage solutions out there. French drains are incredibly popular and work in a similar way to soakaways. It's worth properly weighing up the benefits of French drains vs dry wells before you make any investments.

On top of that, French drains aren't the only solution. There are a host of French drain alternatives like swales and dry creeks that can be a more naturalistic way of handling waterlogging.

Trees can be a good drainage solution too. It won't work in every scenario, but planting willow or other moisture-absorbing trees can soak up groundwater without the need for invasive pipe-laying. However, these trees can be so thirsty that they crowd out your other planting, and often have strong, wide-ranging roots that can cause property damage.

Harsh winter weather means lots of snow and ice, and this can lead to icicles forming along gutters, porches, and eaves.

But while these icicles can look pretty, they can be a real nuisance. Icicles can crack guttering, damage paving, and if you're really unlucky, icicles can even injure you.

I spoke to a guttering professional about the best way to remove ice from your gutters. His answer surprised me: you should be careful about knocking icicles with a pole.

1. Don't knock icicles off of eaves

The most common advice for dealing with icicles is usually to knock them off with a pole. However, the experts don't advise this for the biggest icicles. It can be very hazardous. If you knock an icicle off an eave it could fall and injure you, and it can also cause a lot of damage. Knocking an icicle off a plastic gutter, for instance, could crack the gutter, and particularly heavy icicles falling from roof gutters can damage paving.

Guttering expert David Wilk says 'Knocking icicles down with a pole can cause damage to your gutters or yourself, so you should generally avoid this. Instead, either use a ladder to carefully remove them, use a de-icing product to slowly melt them, or call a professional.'

2. Move icicles out of the way

If you knock the icicles off with a pole or snap them off by hand from a ladder, you need to move them away from your home. Throw the icicles onto your lawn or into a flowerbed. That way, they won't thaw and then refreeze into a patch of slippery ice.

3. Unfreeze your gutters

Icicles are symptomatic of frozen water in your gutters, and you need to fix this problem to prevent further issues. Frozen gutters are heavy, and this ice can crack open the gutters and even make them fall off the side of the house. It's not only an expensive problem to fix but a potential hazard.

There are two main ways of dealing with this ice: ice melt or warm water. With both methods, carefully get up on a ladder to take a closer look at your gutters. If you have some ice melt on hand, you can sprinkle it along the gutters to melt the ice back into water. You don't need any brand in particular. Calcium chloride like this at Home Depot is usually the best option because it works at -25°F, but magnesium chloride will also work.

Warm water is an even simpler and cheaper solution. David Wilk says 'Pour warm (not boiling) water directly into the gutter to gradually thaw the ice.'

4. Use a snow rake to prevent issues before they start

You can also prevent icicles from forming before they start by using a snow rake on your roof. It's another job to do, but clearing snow off your roof after a snowstorm is one of the best ways to prevent ice from forming in your gutters and creating icicles. If snowfall is uncommon in your area then it's especially important, because your roof may not be rated to handle the weight of the snow.

David Wilk explains that 'A snow rake can help prevent icicles by removing the snow before it melts and refreezes at the roofline. For best results, clear snow after each storm, focusing on the lower roof areas where icicles are likely to form.'

It's hard work but straightforward. All you need is a snow rake like this from Target. Stand on the ground and scoop all the snow off the roof onto the ground. If the snow falls onto a path or driveway, shovel it out of the way.

5. Insulate your attic

Icicles forming in your gutters or on other parts of your eaves indicate a larger problem. Frozen gutters happen because heat escapes from your roof. This heat causes snow to thaw into water, which then trickles down the roof into the gutter. Once in the gutter and away from the warm roof, this water then refreezes into ice. Overhanging icicles is often a sign that you need to improve your attic insulation.

David Wilk says 'Proper attic insulation and ventilation significantly reduce the chances of icicles forming. Insulation keeps heat inside your home and prevents snow from melting unevenly.' More importantly, proper insulation also helps to reduce your heating bills by making your home more efficient.

Ice isn't the only potential problem with gutters. Gutters can also clog with leaves and other debris so learning how to clean gutters – and how to prevent them from clogging in the first place – can save you a lot of time and effort.

Some of us are still buried under snow and ice, but while it doesn't feel like it now, spring is right around the corner.

Late winter is a quiet time for most gardeners, but there are still things to work on. Once you've finished all your January gardening jobs, there's another task to consider. Most of us shut our tools up in the shop or garage after fall and don't think about them.

However, there are some quick steps you can take in the winter lull that can make your tools much more effective in the warmer months. I spoke to gardening experts about the best ways to prepare garden tools for spring.

1. Remove rust to protect your plants

Before you do anything, you need to remove rust from your metal tools. Rust weakens tools and makes them harder to use. It's especially important to remove from pruners, trowels, and spades. Jagged rust on these tools can damage your plants with ragged cuts that invite disease.

There are a couple of simple natural solutions to this. Garden expert Ryan Farley says 'If your metal tools have picked up a bit of rust, then making a paste with baking soda and scrubbing with a stiff brush can work to get rid of this. This does take a bit of hard work, and I’ve found it often takes a few repetitions of scrubbing with the baking soda paste and then wiping it away and reapplying.'

You don't need to use baking soda, however. Vinegar is also a good choice. Garden expert Valeria Nyman says 'Personally, I use a wire brush or steel wool to scrape it off, then wipe the tool down with a mix of white vinegar and water. For stubborn spots, l just let the tool sit in straight vinegar for an hour before scrubbing. When it’s clean, just dry it immediately and coat the metal with a thin layer of machine oil to keep rust at bay.'

2. Sharpen tools for clean cuts

Sharpening is the most important task for preparing gardening tools. Almost every garden tool needs to be sharpened - if it has a metal blade, it probably needs sharpening. At a minimum, you need to sharpen mower blades, pruner blades, hedge trimmer blades, axes, hedge shears, spades, and trowels.

Garden expert Jeremy Yamaguchi explains 'It is a great idea to sharpen your garden tools before you start using them again in the spring. Things like garden shears and lawn mower blades, both of which are meant to cut through living greenery, are most effective when sharp. Dull blades may not cut through as quickly, efficiently, or cleanly. It could require more effort to get the job done, and the end result may not look as good. Additionally, using dull blades leaves your plants far more susceptible to disease.'

The good news is that the method doesn't change much across all these tools. All you need is a metal file. With rust removed from your tool, clamp it down to a workbench. Then, using a rough file, file the cutting edge.

Be sure to keep the 'factory edge' by checking the tool beforehand. Not every tool needs to be sharpened on both sides, especially bypass shears and pruners. However, if your tool has a single bevel like this, burrs will form on the non-cutting edge of the tool you need to remove these burrs on the other side by filing them off.

As you file, the edge will change color from dull to bright, and once the entire cutting edge is bright, you know the job is nearly done. You can then finish off any snags with a fine file.

The good news is that it doesn't need much work; you don't need to get your tools knife-sharp. In fact, oversharpening lawn mower blades is a common gardening mistake. With hand tools, oversharpening is a mistake for safety reasons - you don't want a trowel that can cut you as you dig. However, it's also important for plant health. Sharp mower blades are more likely to chip on rocks and twigs. Not only does this mean you need to sharpen them again, but these chips mean the blades tear at grass, not cut it cleanly, which makes it more likely for disease to enter your grass.

3. Oil pivot points

The late winter is also a good time to make sure moving tools run smoothly. This is a very simple task. All you need to do is oil the pivot points on your shears and pruners. You need a good lubricant - WD40 is fine - and just apply a little to the pivot on the shears.

Garden expert Valeria Nyman explains that 'Hinges get cranky after winter, so a few drops of lightweight oil (3-in-1 oil works great) will keep them smooth. Open and close the tool a few times to work it in.

The only potential sticking point is if you've left them for several months over fall and winter. This needs some more intensive care. Valeria says 'If they’re really stiff, disassemble, clean, and oil the parts individually.' This should restore even the stiffest tools to their best.

4. Sand wooden handles for comfort

Another crucial task is to sand wooden tool handles. These pick up tiny nicks and splinters over the previous season, and left untreated, these can be very uncomfortable. This is an easy fix. Take some medium-grit sand paper and run it up and down the shaft of the tool. This will remove rough patches and make the handle much more comfortable to hold.

Garden expert Ryan Farley says 'Sanding down wooden handles of tools can be a good step, though I don’t personally do it every year. If you’re running into splinters or snags on your tool handles, then yes, I do recommend giving them a quick sand-down with some sandpaper.'

5. Oil wooden handles for protection

Once the handles are sanded, you need to protect the handle with oil. Sanding removes imperfections and rough patches, but it also exposes new wood, which needs to be sealed with oil so it doesn't split. This is another easy job. After sanding, just wipe down tool handles with oil, usually boiled linseed oil like this at Home Depot. The oil doesn't need to be 'boiled'; this just means it dries faster.

Ryan Farley gave me some good tips for this. He says 'I like to use linseed oil and will typically just soak a rag in it and then wipe down each handle with the rag. You can then wipe away excess oil and give the handles a chance to sit and soak in the oil for half an hour or so before you store them for spring.'

6. Add new grips for security

After the tools are dry, it might be time to consider adding grips. It's not always necessary, but if you feel like you can't get leverage on your tools or they feel uncomfortable, adding some grips can make tools a little easier to use. Rubber tubing grips like these on Amazon are easy to find, but you can also use sports tape.

Garden expert Valeria Nyman explains 'If your hands ache after gardening, grips can help. Foam or rubber sleeves work, or just wrap them with tape like you would a baseball bat or similar.' Baseball bat grip tape like this from Amazon is perfect for both short- and long-handled tools.

These steps are great for manual tools, but they aren't the only tool and equipment preparation needed ahead of spring. Learning when to de-winterize your garden is a crucial part of preparing pools and decks for hosting come spring.

French drains saw a spike in popularity at the start of last year and the trend shows no sign of stopping. A cursory Google of this clever drainage solution will bring up dozens of forums of gardeners recommending French drains as the only solution for a waterlogged yard.

However, French drains aren't a miracle cure for garden drainage. They won't work at the top of slopes, they need somewhere to discharge, and they're expensive to install.

So, while a good French drain can be the perfect solution, there are a few alternatives to consider before you dig up your lawn.

What's the deal with French drains?

French drains are a popular solution to lawn drainage problems. This ingenious solution involves digging a trench and laying it with filter fabric and a perforated pipe, covered in gravel and turf. This creates a hidden drain that moves water away from a lawn, removing waterlogging.

Landscape expert Ryan Farley explains that 'French drains are great for providing some extra natural drainage for your yard, and can help prevent flooding or waterlogged soil without using electricity.'

However, Ryan says 'It depends on your individual situation.' French drains aren't always the solution for standing water in a yard, because they can't help with standing water on patios. Because they're submerged, they can be hard to fix if they clog. French drains can also be fairly expensive. They can't be installed at the top of slops, or near tree roots, and they need to be carefully planned so the water remains in your water and doesn't drain into a neighbor's garden.

This means that a French drain may not be the best solution to your drainage problems, so why not consider one of these six French drain alternatives.

1. Build a dry creek bed

Dry creek beds are one of the cheapest alternatives to a French drain. You can think of a swale like a French drain without a pipe. Dry creeks are long trenches of gravel or rocks placed at the bottom of slopes. The idea is that these rocks filter excess water into the soil, unlike a French drain which will carry excess water off to a dry well or other water storage system.

However, dry creek beds won't work in every type of yard. The rocks slowly drain water into the soil, so they aren't always great at handling stormy weather. They also disperse water directly into the soil rather than move it away, so they won't help with standing water near a home's foundations.

Creek beds can easily clog with leaves and other debris in the fall, and on top of that, unlike a French drain, you can't cover them with turf, so you need to landscape them with water-loving rocky plants like reeds and rushes. This can look beautiful, but it doesn't work for every garden style.

2. Create a swale

You usually see swales in commercial or residential planting, but you can also introduce them into a domestic yard. A grass swale is a shallow ditch lined with turf. Done right, you hardly notice a grass swale - it's just a little ditch at the bottom of the yard. Grass swales are also simple to install - you just need to dig a ditch and line it with turf or native, water-loving plants.

Unlike a French drain, this isn't a deep ditch - it should slope at around 4%, so it's a relatively straightforward design. Any water will run off to drains at either end of the swale. This also makes swales easy to troubleshoot, because you can easily see any blockages at the drain hole, unlike French drains where the pipe is buried under rocks and turf. You can also plant grass swales with water-loving grasses, just like a dry creek bed.

The downside to grass swales is that they're best for dealing with stormwater runoff, not more everyday waterlogging. They can alleviate waterlogged lawns but not entirely solve them. While they're great for handling stormwater, they can look pretty ugly after heavy rain, as they'll turn into a boggy ditch. They also won't work for steep lawns, and they can be hard to DIY. A swale needs a wide, shallow trench, which can be a surprising amount of earth to shift without professionals.

3. Plant a willow

If you have a lot of standing water, one of the best natural solutions can be to plant willow or other moisture-absorbing trees. Willows consume a lot of water, so planting willow is a natural way to drain off some water from boggy ground.

On top of that, willow is easy and fast to grow. You can buy pot willows like this at Fast Growing Trees but all you need is a branch. A withy (branch) of willow planted into moist soil will quickly grow roots. In the best conditions, willows can grow up to 10 feet in a single year.

However, there are some big drawbacks. You need the right tree for your climate zone, but the major downside is that willows are so thirsty that they can suck up all the moisture from your other plants. This can inhibit their growth, particularly impacting yields of fruits and vegetables.

Because willows are so quick to grow, they can quickly become invasive and hard to remove from the yard. Willows also grow masses of thick, sturdy roots, and if you grow them too near to a house or drains you could wind them undermining your foundation or pipes.

4. Consider making a rain garden

Rain gardens are plantings designed to handle roof runoff. The idea is that you plant an area of your yard with water-loving plants, creating a boggy area that can capture rainwater and slowly filter it back into the soil, preventing water from overwhelming drains or pooling on patios and lawns. This is probably the best-looking option on this list, and an opportunity to create a beautiful planting of water-loving plants.

However, rain gardens are primarily a way of dealing with roof runoff, not waterlogging. They stop too much water from being diverted to public drains. While this can certainly help a waterlogged garden, capturing water that could otherwise end up on your lawn, rain gardens can't solve the issue by themselves.

If you have very heavy clay soil as is found throughout the South, a rain garden won't solve the issue. In this case, you need to introduce mulch to the soil or a French drain to help move the excess water.

5. Install a dry well

Dry wells are another way of capturing rainwater. You can think of them like buried rain barrels. They're huge, underground stores of stormwater that collect gallons of water and slowly release it into the soil. This reduces waterlogging because it removes the water from the surface of the lawn and slowly releases it further underground. You can also place a dry well in a disused corner of a yard, so if you're still worried about waterlogging you'll know that it's happening away from the main lawn.

However, you needn't think of French drains and dry wells as opposite solutions. In fact, you can combine the two, and hook a French drain up to a dry well. The drain will move standing water away from the lawn and into the well, where it will slowly disperse back into the soil.

This can be an excellent drainage method as it prevents waterlogging and keeps the water within your yard, preventing any potential disputes with neighbors and ensuring your soil gets all the hydration it needs for healthy plants. The only drawback is the cost - this dry well kit at Home Depot costs almost $500.

6. Add a trench drain

Trench drains are classic drains - you probably walk over a dozen of them a day without noticing. They are small, narrow trenches covered with a metal or plastic grate. They're the best way to deal with water pooling around the foundations of a home or on a patio. Like swales, they're easy to fix if they clog, because you can take off the grate and fish leaves or other debris out of the trench.

The problem with trench drains, however, is that they're usually only installed on patios, or at the points where a patio meets a lawn. This means that they can't always alleviate waterlogged lawns. If your waterlogging issue happens where your patio meets the lawn, a trench drain is a great way to move this water.

However, if you have standing water out in the middle of the lawn, a trench drain won't help you. Trench drains are also pretty ugly. You can find decorative trench grates like this at Home Depot, but they're all fairly utilitarian, and they can make a backyard feel a little corporate.

Most of these solutions will only help with waterlogged lawns. If you have another drainage issue, taking a look at wide range of drainage ideas out there could offer another solution. French drains can be great, but they only really work for lawns.

As the cold winter weather sets in, keeping your home warm and energy-efficient becomes a top priority. One of the biggest causes of heat loss in homes, particularly older ones, is poorly insulated windows.

Whether you’re dealing with drafty single panes or crafting solutions for quirky window shapes, finding the right window insulation method can make a noticeable difference in comfort and heating bills. Fortunately, there are plenty of practical, affordable, and even stylish options available to help you prepare a house for cold weather.

In this guide, we explore some of the most effective methods to insulate windows for the colder months. With five tips from our experts, suited to different types of windows, you're sure to find a method that fits your style, budget, and home design.

1. Install weatherstripping

'Weatherstripping is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to block drafts around windows,' recommends Bob Berriz, owner of Berriz Design Build. 'This flexible material can be applied along the edges of sashes or frames to create a tight seal. It’s ideal for older homes where windows may not close tightly anymore, and it’s easy to install and remove without causing damage.'

According to Bob, Frost King’s Self-Adhesive Weatherstrip Tape available at Walmart is a reliable choice. 'It comes in different widths and materials, such as foam and rubber, to suit your window type. For homes with wooden window frames, consider a felt weatherstripping, which is gentler on the finish.'

To apply, clean the window surface thoroughly, measure the perimeter, cut the weatherstripping to size, and press it firmly into place. With its easy installation, you’ll notice a significant reduction heat loss immediately, and feel the benefits of DIY draft proofing. This works particularly well when paired with putting your windows in winter mode, to guarantee maximum heat retention.

2. Use a window Insulation film

Window insulation film is a popular solution to insulating windows because it’s almost invisible once applied. The film shrinks when heat is applied to it, and is stretched across the inside of your windowpane and secured using double-sided tape. This forms an airtight layer that reduces heat transfer and eliminates drafts.

'The 3M Indoor Window Insulation Kit is a best-seller for a reason,' continues Bob. 'It includes everything you need for installation and the product is known for its clarity and durability.'

'To install, attach the film to the frame, leaving some extra. Next, use a hairdryer to shrink the film until it’s taut and smooth. This method is especially effective for single-pane or older windows.'

Therefore, while triple pane windows are worth it, this is an affordable, budget-friendly option that's suitable for rental properties, too.

3. Hang thermal curtains or insulated drapes

Adding thermal curtains or insulated drapes is a great curtain hack for a warmer home in winter. They’re made with dense fabrics and often feature a thermal lining designed to trap heat inside the room. These are particularly useful for homes with large windows or patio doors, where other solutions might be less effective.

'INOVADAYs Thermal Insulated Blackout Curtains from Amazon are stylish, affordable, and come in a wide range of colors to match your decor,' continues Bob. 'For extra efficiency, look for curtains with triple-weave technology.'

To maximize their effectiveness, hang the curtains as close to the window as possible and ensure they extend a few inches beyond the frame on all sides. When drawn, they’ll create a snug barrier that keeps warm air inside and cold air out.

4. Install insulating cellular shades

'Cellular shades, also known as honeycomb shades, are an elegant and highly effective way to insulate your windows,' recommends Sabi Kampeas, CEO and founder of Kasa201 LLC. 'Their unique design features pockets of air trapped within the cells, which act as a barrier to heat transfer. Cellular shades are available in various levels of opacity, from sheer to blackout, making them a versatile choice for your windows in any room.'

Sabi recommends the Bali Cellular Shades from Home Depot, which are also rated 4.5 out of 5 by customers, as they offer excellent insulation properties and come in customizable sizes to fit your windows perfectly.

These shades are easy to install and operate, providing an attractive, low-maintenance solution for year-round insulation.

5. Draft snakes

Draft snakes are a charming and inexpensive way to block drafts at the base of your windows, and doors for that matter. These fabric tubes are filled with materials like sand, wheat, foam or rice and can be placed along window sills or between sashes to prevent cold air from seeping in.

'While you can buy ready-made draft snakes, such as the Fowong Twin Draft Guard from Amazon, making your own can be a fun and personalized project,' says Sabi. 'Simply sew a fabric tube and fill it with rice, beans, or even old socks for an eco-friendly solution.'

Place the draft snake snugly against the window to see an immediate difference. This solution is practical for quirky or hard-to-fit windows, as they can be customized to any size.

Similar to winterizing your home, winter-proofing your windows doesn’t have to be an arduous task as there’s a solution for every home and budget.

Insulating your windows not only keeps your home cozy but also helps reduce heating loss. So, why wait? Take the time to insulate your windows now and enjoy a warm, draft-free home all winter. Next, learn how to draft proof your living room or draft proof your bedroom for maximum comfort when relaxing.

French drains were a trending gardening topic last year and they'e still incredibly popular. They solve a host of common lawn drainage problems, all while hiding in plain sight under your lawn.

However, French drains don't solve every drainage issue. If you have to deal with water on hardscaped surfaces like patios and decks, you'll find that a French drain is totally useless.

I spoke to yard experts about the key differences between these two similar sounding drainage solutions, and which works best for every type of yard.

What's the difference?

Though they sound similar, trench drains and French drains are actually very different.

Trench drains are basic, surface-level drains. They collect water through a grate and move it away from hard surfaces like patios, decks, and drives.

French drains are a little more complex. French drains use a perforated pipe hidden under gravel and usually turf. This makes them perfect for moving standing water from lawns.

What are the benefits of a French drain?

Lawn expert Ryan Farley explains that 'French drains are great when you’re consistently dealing with waterlogged soil. As these types of drains are typically dug deeper into the soil of your yard, they’re able to divert water that’s soaking into your yard. I’ve seen these really help out in yards where too-wet soil is causing yard erosion or plants and grass to fail.'

Though French drains are expensive, they are less costly than Trench drains. Landscaping expert Jeremy Yamaguchi says that 'French drains are often the better choice for residential yards. They are excellent at redirecting water and are typically less expensive to install than trench drains.'

Unlike trench drains, French drains are hidden under gravel, and usually under turf, too. This means they're a much better-looking option than trench drains, because they're completely hidden.

What are the drawbacks of a French drain?

One drawback with French drains is that they only work on lawns. French drains can't help with drainage issues on your patio, deck, or near the foundation of your house. Ryan Farley says 'However, the major drawback of a French drain is just that it’s going to help less with water that’s pooling closer to your house. That’s when you’ll want a trench drain.'

Depending on how you landscape your French drain, it can be a bit of an eyesore. I don't cover it with turf, or put landscaping plants like lavender around the gravel, you have an ugly line of aggregate stretching across your yard. If your kids like to play sports on the lawn they might be disturbed by a rocky French drain cutting across their play area.

French drains are great for moving standing water during usual patterns of rainfall, but they're less capable of tackling stormwater. Because they use perforated pipes and the water trickles through gravel, they can't always handle a huge amount of water.

On top of that, obtaining a permit for a French drain can be tricky. Diverted water needs to go somewhere, and you can't just drain water into neighbors' yards - not only is it antisocial, but most local ordinances don't allow it. You need to connect it to existing pipes or a dry well to ensure proper drainage, and this can be expensive.

What are the benefits of a trench drain?

Trench drains tend to be used in commercial settings like parking lots and office buildings, but they can be useful for a yard, too.

Ryan Farley explains that 'Trench drains help with groundwater that hasn’t yet soaked into your soil. I’ve seen them used primarily with homes where yard grading results in water pooling around a home’s foundation. They can also be good if your gutter downspouts tend to deposit water around your home in less than ideal spots.'

Trench drains are easy and cheap to install, and unlike gutters, they don't clog with leaves or debris. In the unlikely case something does go wrong, they're easy to fix and clean, unlike French drains which are buried under rock and soil.

You're less likely to need a permit for a trench drain too. As long as the water isn't draining into a neighbor's yard, you should be fine, as you don't need to dig deep, long channels to install them.

What are the drawbacks of a trench drain?

The most obvious issue with trench drains is that they can't be installed on grass. Ryan Farley explains that 'Trench drains won’t tend to help with waterlogged soil, although they can also help prevent too much water from reaching your yard.'

Trench drains are also pretty ugly. They're there for utility, not aesthetics, so they don't always look great. Though you can find decorative trench grates like this at Home Depot, most are boring, black drain covers. If you aren't careful with installation, they can make your patio look like a parking lot.

But before you go to city hall to get a permit for your French drain, there are lots of other solutions to waterlogged lawns. Learning how to aerate a lawn could be a cheaper solution than digging up your garden. Designing a rain garden is another smart way of dealing with water and leveling up your garden style at the same time.

French drains are the perfect way to improve drainage in your yard. They hide pipes under elegant gravel, providing a landscaped method of moving dangerous standing water off your lawn and away from your foundations.

However, French drains can be surprisingly expensive to install, and if you're new to gardening, it may not be clear how much you should pay.

I spoke to plumbing and landscaping experts about how much you should spend on a French drain, as well as all the hidden costs that many people forget to include.

1. Cost per foot

Different homes have different needs, so it's worth knowing the average cost-per-foot for a French drain. It's a much cheaper option for smaller homes than larger homes.

Plumber and French drain expert Hayden Slack says 'For a typical home, professional installation usually runs between $15-30 per foot, though every property is unique.'

Garden expert Tammy Sons agrees and says 'Per linear foot, it's typically 10 to 30 dollars.'

2. Cost of parts

The cost per foot is based on materials and labor. Hayden Slack explains that 'The basic materials are perforated PVC pipe ($3-5 per foot), gravel ($25-45 per ton), filter fabric (about $1 per square foot) and catch basins ($25-50 each).'

Tammy Sons agrees, and says 'Parts you will need are a perforated pipe, gravel, fabric, and catch basins, which are optional. The material cost should be anywhere from one dollar to five dollars per foot of the pipe, fabric, or gravel.'

All these parts are easy to find at hardware stores. You can buy perforated pipe at Home Depot, gravel at Lowe's, and filter fabric at Tractor Supply Co, for example. It might work out cheaper to let your landscapers buy the materials for you, as they may buy them wholesale from dedicated construction retailers, lowering the price a little. However, there's more to consider than just materials.

3. Labor costs

The biggest cost with installing a French drain is labor. Hypothetically, you can install it yourself, but experts don't recommend it, so you probably need to hire professionals. Labor costs depend on where you are in the country, but the rough guide is a few thousand dollars.

Yard expert Ryan Farley says 'Labor is typically where most of your costs come from with French drain installation. I tend to see these projects running around $3,000 - $5,000, but this can obviously be much more or less expensive depending on the extent of the project, the length of the drain, and overall the amount of time you will be paying for.'

4. Permit costs

On top of parts and labor, you probably need to set aside some money for a permit. It depends on where you are in the country and the size of the project, but most French drain installations need permits.

Ryan Farley explains that 'Whether or not a French drain requires a permit can depend on your circumstances in my experience. For instance, if you’re just planning on a smaller French drain to help with too-wet soil that will divert water to a different part of your yard, you generally don’t need to worry about permits. But if the diverted water will flow onto public property or potentially affect public water systems like sewers, then it’s good to research this first. I’ve seen permits be required in these situations.'

Permit prices vary from place to place, so it's hard to give an estimate for how much it may cost you. Hayden Slack says 'Permits vary depending on where you live. Some cities require permits for any drainage work at all, while others are more relaxed. Permit costs typically range from $100-500.'

5. Hidden costs

Finally, there are some hidden costs to consider, too. Hayden Slack says 'There are also some hidden costs that homeowners might not think about initially, like testing the soil, and the cost of fixing landscape or sprinkler systems.'

He adds that 'Some French drain installations reveal other issues underground that have to be dealt with or the project may have to be delayed due to weather. Some cities even require an inspection afterward.'

On top of installation costs, there are landscaping costs after the fact too. Tammy Sons says that 'disposal of excavated soil or restoring the landscape afterward' can also bring extra costs.

6. Don't DIY it

One way to save a little money on French drain installation is to do it yourself. However, all of the experts I spoke to warned against DIY French drains.

Ryan Farley says 'It is a feasible DIY project but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have some existing knowledge of drainage and similar projects.'

Hayden Slack agrees and warns that 'My best advice is to get a professional assessment for your specific situation. Just like every home is different, every drainage solution needs to be tailored to the property. While DIY might seem like a money-saver upfront, getting it wrong can lead to expensive problems down the road.'

That's because 'Professional installation includes detailed site evaluation and planning with precise grading and slope calculations to prepare the ground correctly. We use heavy-duty equipment that most homeowners don't have to get the job done right.'

Without this equipment or knowledge of how to deal with a slope, your drain may not work properly. It could be an expensive mistake that leads to standing water and other drainage issues.

There are just the costs; there are a whole host of French drain mistakes to beware as you install the pipes. But before you do anything, consider if a French drain is the best method of solving drainage issues. There are lots of other drainage solutions out there, so it could be worth weighing up a French drain vs a dry well to help you deal with water in your yard.

Winterizing your yard is a vital part of gardening, as it protects your equipment, tools, as well as your decks, hot tubs and pools from breaking in harsh winter temperatures.

You will need to undo all of that frost-proofing when temperatures start to rise again, so that everything is prepared for warmer weather. However, it isn't always clear when you should start getting ready for spring.

I spoke to landscaping experts about when to dewinterize your garden, and they told me that temperature is the best indicator of when to begin. These are the temperature triggers that will let you know when to prep your tools, plus we advise on how to wake up and restore your winterized lawn mower and other tools and garden features, ready for the coming spring.

1. When to dewinterize a lawnmower

There's no one time to prepare a mower for spring. Different yards have different types of grass and local conditions vary across the country. However, the (very) rough warm of thumb is that grass emerges from its dormancy when night-time temperatures are consistently around or above 60°F. Once you know there's a warm week coming up - usually in March, but it varies - it's time to get your mower ready.

It's relatively easy to get your mower ready for spring. Lawnmower expert Ryan Farley says 'I usually recommend keeping gas in your lawnmower over the winter as long as you have fuel stabilizer added as well. So, your first step when preparing your mower for spring will often be to drain the gas that’s been sitting in it all winter.' This is also a good chance to replace your mower oil.

With the gas replaced, you need to clean the mower. 'I would recommend cleaning it pretty thoroughly when you take it out of storage. This helps get rid of any dust or debris that could interfere with how it runs, but it can also help you identify any potential problems or damage that might have occurred over the winter from pests, weather, etc.'

A final step most people forget is to sharpen lawnmower blades. Dull blades tear at the leaves rather than trim them, creating a ragged cut that can invite disease into your grass. Ryan says 'If you’ve noticed your blades getting dull, this is also a great time to sharpen them up using a grindstone.' However, be careful not to overdo it - one of the most common lawnmower mistakes is over-sharpening your lawnmower blades. This can make the blades brittle and liable to chip. While a grindstone is the fastest method, a cheap hand file like this from Home Depot is all you need to sharpen your lawn mower blades.

2. When to dewinterize sprinklers

As with lawnmowers, there's no one date for de-winterizing a sprinkler system. Instead, the best cue is temperature. Lawn expert Jeremy Yamaguchi says 'wait until the soil temperatures are above freezing.' Soil temperature is key because the sprinkler heads sit in the soil. If the air temperature is above freezing but the soil temperature is still below 32°F, the sprinkler heads will fill with water, and then freeze; water expands as it freezes and this will crack the sprinkler heads and break the system.

Once you've had a few days of warm soil, Jeremy says 'Start by cleaning your sprinkler heads of debris, then close the main shut-off valve. Slowly open the valve until it’s halfway open, then run each sprinkler zone for at least 3 minutes – this prevents the pipes from being overwhelmed by water pressure.'

This is the perfect setup to troubleshoot any issues that may have happened when the sprinkler system was winterized. 'Go around your lawn and check for issues. The sprinklers may blow out air for a minute but should subside. If it doesn’t, then your sprinkler system may have valve or sprinkler head issues. Lastly, once you’ve verified that there are no problems, open the valve fully.'

3. When to dewinterize a pool

The unofficial start to the pool season - or at least, the one marketed to people - is Memorial Day (the last Monday in May). However, you probably shouldn't wait that long. You should open your pool once outdoor temperatures are consistently around 60-70°F.

That's because algae can bloom at these temperatures, and if you wait too long you'll end up with green pool water, particularly if you have a cheap cover that doesn't keep the sun off the water.

Opening your pool early is the best chance to prevent algae and keep your water crystal clear. If you wait until Memorial Day, those in the hotter parts of the country might find that their pool is already thick with algae. Even in colder areas, it's wise to go early - Memorial Day weekend is the busiest sales period in the pool stores and prices will be higher - and stock lower - than earlier in the spring. On top of that, you should build in some time to stabilize any issues with chlorine or pH, so the earlier the better.

Firstly, clean all of the leaves and branches off your pool cover. If you can, use a cover pump to remove any standing water on the cover - this is mostly to make it easier to move the cover, so it isn't essential. Take the cover off, then clean it with soap and a broom and leave it to dry.

Then, remove any pool winterizing measures like plugs and replace ladders and other accessories in the pool. At this point, replace any water lost to evaporation. After that, prime the pump, then run it.

With that done, test the pH levels in your water, and depending on the results, shock the pool. Shock like this at Walmart is easy to find at a wide range of retailers and pool stores. You don't need anything fancy - the ingredients are almost always identical. Then brush down the sides to dislodge and kill any algae.

4. When to dewinterize a pressure washer

Like pools and sprinklers, it's not a good idea to use your pressure washer until temperatures are reliably above freezing. The good news is that these are similar to lawnmowers.

If you winterized your pressure washer, it should be fairly easy to set up. As with lawnmowers, you need to top up the gas or remove any gas you kept in the washer over winter with a fuel stabilizer. Then, run water through the pressure washer for around a minute. This should clear the washer of any potential blockages and reveal any cracks that may have developed over the winter. If there are no cracks or leaks, your pressure washer is ready to use for spring.

5. When to dewinterize a deck

There's no set time or temperature for dewinterizing your deck; it's wise to do it in spring with a few days of dry, warm weather on the forecast. This will give you wiggle room for a few days' work and time for any sealants and stains to dry.

Decks are straightforward to dewinterize, but it can be a lot of work, especially if you didn't winterize your deck before the snow. Firstly, sweep away any leaves and debris, and if the wood is tough enough, you can pressure wash any algae or stains off the planks.

Then, give the whole deck a once-over and look for loose or rotten boards, and tighten any loose screws. If you need to re-stain or re-seal the deck, now is the time to do it before heavy foot traffic in late spring and summer.

6. When to dewinterize a rain barrel

You should dewinterize your rain barrel when temperatures are consistently above freezing and you're unlikely to see another cold snap - probably late March or early April, but that's subject to local weather conditions. You don't want to set your rain barrel up again only to have to undo all your work when a sudden cold front sets in.

Thankfully, it's easy to set your barrel back up. If you winterized your rain barrel, just upend it so it's the right way up again, reattach it to your downspout, then replace the lid and the filter. That's it - rain barrels are one of the easiest things to reintroduce into your garden.

On top of preparing tools and garden features, there's a huge range of other tasks in the spring gardening checklist. For example, you also need to introduce compost to your soil to keep it fertile, sharpen your tools, and plant bulbs for summer.

If you are new to DIY projects or come up against wonky cuts when using a saw, you're most likely in need of a DIY saw guide. It'll give you perfectly straight cuts and you can make your own in just a few simple steps.

Typically made from plywood or MDF, a DIY saw guide is most often needed for long, straight cuts. They’re easy to make, easy to use and give great results according to our home maintenance experts.

And while they can come in different forms and sizes, they all have one thing in common – a long straight edge to guide your circular saw. This step-by-step will lead to a DIY tip you'll use again and again.

What you'll need to build a DIY track guide

To make a DIY saw guide, you'll need the help of a circular saw and a few other tools as Jimmy Harris of We Buy Houses In West Georgia points out, ‘I made one a few years ago and still have it and use it’.

Swindle suggests another couple of DIY tools to help complete the process. ‘You’ll need clamps to secure the guide and work piece during cutting. Don’t forget sandpaper to smooth edges after cutting.’

John Swindle, Owner of Chase Roof Inspections shares the benefits of using a saw guide, explaining, 'They prevent wandering cuts, minimize splintering, and help you avoid uneven edges on plywood and wooden boards.’

He adds, 'They're great for DIYers, furniture builders, general construction workers, and woodworkers who need straight, accurate cuts. Those with dedicated track saw systems will already have what they need.

You will need:

• Circular saw
• Drill
• Screws
• Chalk line
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Aluminum channel (to ensure you get a strong, straight edge on your DIY saw guide).

Shop DIY items on Amazon for quick home delivery, available to all Prime members, or at your local Walmart or Home Depot.

All prices correct at time of publication.

Alongside the tools, Harris and Swindle both recommend using plywood, or MDF for your DIY saw guide. Swindle adds, ‘Use straight-grained plywood or MDF, typically half inch thick for stability.’

‘They are inexpensive, easy to cut, and offer a smooth surface for the saw to glide along. High-quality, straight-grained plywood works best to avoid warping over time.’

Ideally, do not use anything less than half an inch thick, however, if you want extra stability you can use thicker plywood up to three-quarter inch. To help get a good deal, refer to our guide on how to source building materials for less.

How to build a DIY saw step-by-step guide

A DIY saw guide can be any size you want, but if you’re cutting a lot of standard size board Harris recommends an 8ft x 4ft sheet of plywood to work with.

1. Measure and mark

To start Harris says, ‘From the bottom left side of the half inch plywood on the eight foot side, measure three inches over and make a mark.'

Then, repeat the three-inch measurement at the top left of the eight foot side. To finish, pop a chalk line on your three-inch marks to get a straight line.

2. Add aluminum channel

The aluminum channel is the guide for the saw to ensure straight cuts. Harris says, ‘Predrill holes on the bottom of your aluminum channel, such as the Steelworks Aluminum Weldable Trim Channel from Lowes) every six inches.’

Then align your aluminum channel to the right-hand side of your three-inch line and screw the aluminum channel to the plywood, making sure to keep your channel on the chalk line.

Alternatively, you can use a length of factory cut wood which will have a straight edge.

3. Cut to size

To create the right size guide for your saw Harris says, ‘Use your circular saw to cut the excess plywood from your guide. Raise your saw blade so just enough of the blade is showing to cut through the plywood.’

On the largest side of your plywood sheet, align the base of your circular saw against the aluminum track so the blade is furthest from the aluminum guide and cut. 'This will leave you with around four to five inches of plywood which will be your guide for future cuts,' adds Harris.

Put the large piece of plywood to the side for a future DIY project or to make a smaller DIY saw guide.

4. Make guide double-sided

The guide will now have one edge ready to use, but Harris suggests another cut so you have two edges. He says, ‘This will allow you to be able to use both sides of the guide, depending on what your needs are.’

And it's perfect for left or right-handed people.

To create the second straight edge, align the base of the circular saw on the three-inch side of the aluminum guide, so the blade is closest to the aluminum guide, and cut. Now your guide is ready to use.

If you've bailed out of previous projects for the difficulty of getting a straight edge, it might be time to finish your home DIY projects.

If you don’t have the time to make your own saw guide, Swindle recommends a Kreg Rip-Cut Guide (like this Kreg KMA2685 Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide from Amazon). ‘It's a good pre-built guide for circular saws with adjustable functionality.’

How do you use a saw guide?

Before you start up your saw, check by eye and make sure that the blade is lined up with your cut line and clamp your guide firmly to the material. Then, use your dominant hand to push your saw, and your non-dominant hand to hold the saw guide.

Swindle says when running along the guide, keep a consistent speed and pressure.

Harris adds, ‘Move the saw slowly and don’t try to go too fast.’ Don't force the blade. Circular saws cut up so you can flip the wood over, but that is not necessary if you have the correct blade.’

This stops tear out and gives a neater cut on the surface that is seen.

FAQs

What is the best way to secure a saw guide?

When using a saw guide it's commonly used with a power tool, so for your safety it needs to be secured. But it's not just for your protection as Harris explains, ‘A saw guide needs to be secure, if it’s not it can lead to a poor cut on the wood.’

To avoid injury, or a wonky cut Harris advises clamping your guide to the material you want to cut.

Swindle adds, ‘Use quick release clamps’, such as the these WORKPRO Bar Clamps from Amazon. You squeeze the handle to get a vice-like grip on wood. But if you don’t have clamps to hand, Swindle suggests screwing the guide into the workbench, if the material allows.

But be warned, as I know from experience that will leave screw holes in the wood. So make sure to screw into a side of the wood you don’t want, or turn it over to cut, leaving the screw holes on the underside of the wood.

The best way to get a clean cut?

To get a cleaner cut Swindle says ‘Use a blade with more teeth for finer cuts.’ Harris adds, ‘The more teeth on the blade, the cleaner the cut you will get.’

The common choice for blades that come packaged with a new circular saw is 24 teeth. Choose a blade with 40 or 60 teeth, such as the Makita 40T Carbide-Tipped Circular Saw Blade from Amazon, this will be marked as 40T or 60T.

One note of caution when choosing a new blade is to make sure it's the right size for your circular saw. If you have a 165mm saw, you need a 165mm saw blade.

A saw guide is the perfect companion for neat straight cuts on a host of DIY projects.

It's ideal if you're learning how to install shelves in an alcove as your DIY saw guide can be called into action.

Spades are among the most crucial gardening tools. Without a spade, you can't dig, and if you can't dig you can grow very little

However, if you don't sharpen your spade, you could be working against yourself. Spades need to be sharp to cut effectively. If your spade is dull, it can make cutting and digging much harder on your back, and crush turf and roots rather than cut cleanly through them.

I spoke to three turf specialists for their advice about sharpening a spade. They gave me five fast steps that will help you revitalize this essential gardening tool to its former glory.

1. Clean your spade

First of all, you need to clean the spade. Lawncare expert Jeremy Yamaguchi explains that 'You should always clean your spade before sharpening it, which includes removing rust. If there is dirt or debris caked on, you’re not going to be able to get an even, effective sharpening.'

Lawn pro Ryan Farley agrees, and says 'I always recommend cleaning any gardening tool) before sharpening it. This is the best way to get an idea of how much sharpening your spade actually needs, since mud, dirt, and other debris can often make this harder to tell.'

Thankfully, this is a simple process. Lawncare expert Chrissie Handley told me 'Excess soil and dirt can be cleared by using a wire brush and you can then hose down the spade if needed.' Wire brushes are easy to find at Home Depot and other hardware stores.

2. Clamp the spade

Once the spade is clean, you need to secure it for sharpening. Jeremy Yamaguchi suggests 'Use a clamp or a vice to stabilize and secure the spade for sharpening. Secure it horizontally, with the front of the blade facing upwards'

Chrissie Handley agrees, telling me to 'Use either a clamp or vice as long your spade is secured in its place with the cutting edge facing up - this is to ensure your spade is stable and safe for sharpening.'

If you don't have a clamp, vice, or work table, hold the spade down on a garden table or bench - but be sure to keep it secure, as this method isn't as safe as using a clamp.

3. Use a file, grinder, or sharpening stone

The good news is that you don't need any particular tool for sharpening. Chrissie Handley says 'in my opinion, diamond-coated files perform best.' Diamond files are easy to find at Amazon, but they aren't your only option.

Ryan Farley says 'If you already have something like an electric grinder, I’ve had good luck using these for sharpening – if you don’t, a simple file will do the job just fine.'

However, Jeremy Yamaguchi warns that 'You can use a file or grinder to sharpen it, but make sure that if you use a grinder you are wearing goggles and gloves for safety.'

4. Sharpen the edge

With the spade prepared, you just need to sharpen it. Chrissie Handley says 'Use either a metal file or grinder, holding it at an angle of approximately 30–45 degrees, and work along the edge with controlled strokes in one direction. If using a grinder, it is important to make gentle passes and avoid overheating the metal by pausing frequently.'

Then, flip the spade over and repeat the process along the front edge. You don't need to sharpen the sides. Chrissie explains that 'Sharpening the side of a spade is unnecessary since only the front and back edges of a spade are usually used for cutting.'

However, she says that 'If you often use the sides of your spade to cut sideways and find them particularly dull, it might be worth sharpening them. The process would be exactly the same as that used for the front and back edges.'

After a few passes, you'll have a sharp spade. It shouldn't be knife-sharp, but you should be able to see a keen edge. Chrissie adds that 'Once the edge is evenly sharpened, you can smooth out any rough spots with fine sandpaper or a sharpening stone. You can then test the sharpness by pressing the edge against a piece of wood or soft material to ensure it cuts easily.'

5. Add oil to finish

With the spade sharpened, you need to finish it off with some oil. Oiling garden tools is essential for protecting them from rust and dirt. Chrissie Handley says 'Once you have sharpened your spade, take a cloth, saturate it with oil, and apply a thin layer to your spade. For the metal parts, most people use a multipurpose rust protector oil, whilst boiled linseed oil is a popular choice for the wooden handle.

Ryan Farley agrees, and says 'I always recommend finishing up with a coat of linseed oil on both the wooden and the metal parts of your spade, since it will help protect your tools and keep them in good working condition for longer.'

However, don't use your spade straight away. Chrissie warns that 'You should allow the oil to dry completely before using the spade, which usually takes around 24 hours.'

FAQs

How often do you need to sharpen a spade?

Thankfully, you don't need to sharpen your spade too often. Jeremy Yamaguchi says that 'Spades generally only need to be sharpened once or twice a year.' If you notice that the blade has dulled or that it's harder to cut into turf, give your spade a sharpen.

Spades aren't the only tool that could benefit from sharpening. Learning how to sharpen your pruning shears and lawn mower blades will ensure clean, neat cuts as gardening tasks ramp up again.

A light display is one of the best ways to make your home festive for the holidays. Whether you're decorating your porch or the plants in your front yard, Christmas lights are the perfect way to bring some coziness during the winter weather.

However, lighting your home can be tricky. Sometimes you're left with more lights than you know what to do with. If you have several feet of wire looking untidy around your lights, you've probably wondered if there's a way to shorten the cables.

I spoke to expert electricians and lighting experts. While they warn against trimming your outdoor Christmas lights, there are a couple of methods to cut your lights down to size. This is all you need to know about shortening outdoor Christmas lights.

Use zipties or velcro

Most of the experts recommend leaving your lights alone. Lighting expert Dara Greaney says 'I don't recommend shortening Christmas lights. You would need to cut the wires, strip them, and splice them back together in a watertight and windproof fashion.'

Instead, Forrest Webber explains that 'Zip ties are the simplest, safest way to manage extra length without permanently altering the lights. Gather the extra length of lights neatly into small loops. Use zip ties to secure the loops together at multiple points to keep them tidy.'

Then, once the lights are bundled up, Forrest says you just need to 'Tuck the bundled section out of view when hanging or arranging the lights. It's quick, inexpensive, and doesn't affect the lights' functionality. If you need the entire length, you can easily undo it.'

Zip ties are available at Home Depot or any other hardware store. However, a better option is to use Velcro ties (available at Amazon) which are only a couple of dollars more expensive and can be reused indefinitely.

How to cut string lights

You can cut Christmas lights to size, but only certain types. Forrest Weber explains 'Some string lights are designed to be cut, such as LED lights labeled as "customizable" or "cut-to-fit." Regular string lights without cut marks shouldn't be modified, as cutting the wrong point will break the circuit and stop the lights from working.'

If you have lights you can cut, the process is simple. Forrest says 'Most cuttable lights have designated points marked between bulbs. Only cut at these points. Use sharp wire cutters to make a clean snip. Use heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape to cover and protect the exposed ends. This prevents short circuits or damage.'

How to install zip plugs

With the lights cut, you need to use a zip plug. Forrest Webber explains that 'A zip plug safely creates a new connection after cutting string lights.' Expert Dara Greaney warns that 'They are not the easiest to use. You are poking a metal rod into the wire hoping to make a connection. They're not my favorite as you are often out troubleshooting errors. If you get a strong connection and lock it in, then it does make shortening Christmas lights easy.' Zip plugs are widely available at Amazon or any hardware store.

The process is relatively simple. Dara says to 'Remove the back slider from the plug. Insert the zip into the plug, ensuring the ribbed side is on the right (for correct polarity) and the tip goes into the end channel. Bend the zip to make contact with sharp points. Then, slide the back cover onto the plug.'

With this done, Forrest says 'Slide or snap the cover shut tightly to secure the connection. Plug the lights into an outlet to ensure the connection is successful.'

How to install a zip socket

You also need to add a zip socket. Forrest Webber explains 'A zip socket is the counterpart to the plug, creating a safe endpoint for the light string.'

The process is similar to a zip plug. Forrest says:

• 'Cut the string at the correct spot and untangle any loose ends
• Slide the cover open to expose the internal prongs
• Position the wire so the prongs puncture the insulation and connect to the wire
• Snap or slide the cover securely into place
• Attach a bulb or the lights to confirm the socket works'

However, safety is paramount. Forrest warns 'Always disconnect lights from power before cutting or modifying them. Use heat-shrink tubing or electrical tape to cover cut ends and protect against shorts.

'After cutting or installing plugs, test the lights to ensure everything works before moving on.' As ever, heat shrink tubing is easy to find at Home Depot or other hardware stores.

Don't shorten your lights too much, however. You need more than you think, and following the fifty-per-foot rule will make for a much better light display. On top of that, shortening your lights is only half the battle. It's also worth learning how to attach them to tricky surfaces like brick walls so that they're safe and secure.

A hot tub is the perfect finishing touch to a backyard, providing year-round place to socialize and ease sore muscles.

However, hot tub ownership comes with a lot of responsibilities, and one of them is winterizing. If you live somewhere cold and know you won't use your hot tub over the winter, winterizing is essential. If you don't winterize your spa, the water in the lines or shell and crack the tub.

I spoke to hot tub experts about the best ways to winterize a hot tub and ensure it lasts through the colder months.

1. Drain the hot tub

The first step in winterizing a tub is to drain the water, but professional expert Rafi Friedman gave me a tip that can save you some work. 'When winterizing your hot tub, start by shocking the water to get it as clean as possible before draining, then wash and rinse the tub once.' This can save you from having to scrub the entire tub, but it needs a little forward planning - if you have a big freeze coming in soon, you might not have time to do this.

Draining is a simple process. Hot tub expert Scott Weitz says 'Start by turning off the hot tub at the breaker to protect the pump and heater. Next, attach a garden hose to the drain plug and direct the water to a safe drainage area. Open the drain valve to allow the water to flow out, or, for quicker draining, use a submersible pump.' This will drain the hot tub. However, this step isn't done yet.

Dylan adds 'Once drained, flush the system with clean water through the jets and drain again if needed to ensure it's completely clear.' After this is done, you need to remove any remaining standing water.

Hot tub expert Troy Lindbeck says 'A wet/dry vac should then be used to remove the remaining standing water from the tub and the hoses, and a blower will help dry out all the lines. This is a very important step as any water left in the spa can ruin the plumbing.'

Above all, be careful when draining the water. Hot tubs are filled with gallons of water that can drown plants or create standing water. Rafi Friedman says 'Make sure you're draining the water to an area that won't cause problems down the road. Water running towards your foundation or into your neighbors' yards is less than ideal.'

2. Clean the hot tub

With all the water drained, you need to clean the shell of the hot tub. Firstly, ensure, you have the right chemicals for the job. Troy Lindbeck says 'It’s important to purchase a shell cleaner specific for hot tubs. Check your hot tub owner’s manual to see what chemicals are approved because different surface types may use different chemicals.'

After you've worked out the right chemicals, you need to get in there and clean all the jets and filters. Scott Weitz says 'Wipe down the shell with a non-abrasive cleaner or a water-vinegar solution. Use a small brush to scrub the jets and other fixtures. Make sure to rinse everything thoroughly to remove any remaining cleaner.'

Once the shell is clean, it's time to tackle the filters. Hot tub expert Andrei Newman says 'Once water has been drained out of the hot tub thoroughly, next it’s time to clean the hot tub. A soft cloth or sponge will do just fine. It is critical to wipe away any debris because such remains will only be detrimental in the long run. You will also need a filter cleaning solution to soak the filters as they assist in keeping water quality when the tub is in use. After cleaning the filters, rinse and dry them well.'

3. Dry the hot tub

The next step is the easiest - you just need a sunny, dry day. Once you're sure there's no more water in the pipes, give the hot tub a final dry.

Scott Weitz says 'Wipe the interior surfaces with a soft towel. Then, leave the cover open for a few hours to allow the remaining moisture to evaporate. To be extra thorough, use a wet/dry vac to blow out any water left in the jets, pipes, or pump area.'

4. Add antifreeze

Once the shell is dry, you need to add antifreeze to prevent the plumbing lines from freezing and cracking in low temperatures. Scott Weitz says 'Be sure to use a non-toxic, propylene glycol-based antifreeze designed specifically for hot tubs. You can easily find this at stores like Lowe's, Home Depot, or your local pool supply shop. After draining and drying the tub, pour the antifreeze into the jets, pipes, pumps, and filter housing using a funnel. If possible, briefly run the pump to help circulate the antifreeze throughout the system.'

Just bear in mind that this isn't a good idea for everyone. Troy Lindbeck says that 'Adding antifreeze may make it harder for a spa owner to balance their spa in the springtime. Check with your local dealer to give you more peace of mind. '

Whatever you do, don't use car antifreeze - this is toxic. Just use a spa antifreeze like this from Amazon.

5. Cover the tub

When the tub is clean, dry, and dosed with antifreeze, you need to cover it up for the winter. This keeps the shell warm so it doesn't crack in freezes and thaws, stops leaves and other debris from falling into your hot tub, and prevents animals from making nests in the shell.

Scott Weitz says 'Most hot tubs come with a cover when you purchase them, but if yours didn’t, you’ll want to select a high-quality, well-insulated cover that fits snugly.'

There are other little features to consider when you're shopping, too. Dylan says 'Look for a cover with UV protection and water resistance to ensure durability. Before covering your tub, make sure it’s clean and dry. Once ready, place the cover securely on top and fasten any straps or locks to protect it from wind and pests.'

You don't need anything too fancy, but if you get a lot of snow you need a foam hot tub cover like this at Amazon - a thin fabric cover won't be able to handle the weight.

6. Secure the cabinet

With the cover secure, there's one final job - making sure the hot tub cabinet is secure. Troy Lindbeck explains that 'Hot tub cabinets are designed to protect the internal components of the hot tub, but it is good to inspect them occasionally for gaps or wear.' Cabinets are also obvious spots for animals to hibernate over the winter, so it's important to pest-proof them.

Scott Weitz says 'To keep your hot tub cabinet in good condition, start by inspecting it for any gaps where pests might get inside. Seal these openings with caulk or weather stripping. You can also cover the vents with fine mesh to allow airflow while keeping pests out. Be sure to securely fasten any access panels. Keep the area around the hot tub free of debris, and if necessary, consider using pest repellents to deter any unwanted visitors.'

Winterizing a hot tub is only necessary if you won't use the hot tub in the winter. Lots of people love to use their tubs even as temperatures drop below freezing - it's completely safe to use a hot tub in winter, but you need to make it slip-proof as the ground ices over.

The garage is one of the most useful, functional areas of the home. From parking cars to storing seasonal decor, it's a space that really does it all. But, how do you keep it warm?

To avoid mold, condensation and burst pipes, it's important that garage temperatures don't drop too low in winter. As our HVAC experts warn, there's no point in turning your attention to heating the space before solving any insulation woes.

Here, our pros share the best way to heat a garage (and they're all in agreement) and give their tips on acing your insulation. While you may know how to keep your garage cool in hot weather, it's vital to get it right in winter, too.

The best way to heat a garage

Our HVAC pros all agree when deciding how to heat a garage efficiently and that's to make use of the best types of space heater.

HVAC expert Veggeberg says, 'For homeowners looking to heat their garage for short periods of time a few times per month, we recommend an electric space heater, such as the PELONIS PTH15A4BGB Ceramic Tower 1500W Indoor Space Heater with Oscillation available at Amazon.'

The only time you might want to opt for a more expensive solution is if you have converted your garage, and will therefore be spending a lot of time in it.

Home remodeling expert Barres explains, 'There’s no use putting in that much effort into heating this space, unless you’re going to be finishing it and spending significant time here, say, if you turned it into a studio. But otherwise, a good space heater takes care of all your needs.'

Bearing in mind that garage conversions are actually a DIY home improvement that could devalue your property, as most homeowners will be looking to buy a property with a functional garage, only undertake such projects if you're an accomplished DIY-er who can do it to an acceptable standard, or hire a handyman or professional contractor instead.

When running a space heater, do not place it on rugs, furniture it can topple off, and keep it away from other items to ensure adequate air flow. Do not run without supervision, never overnight and be mindful of moisture levels. If it's too high, the space heater can become an electrical risk in your home.

Don't neglect garage insulation

The best way to heat a garage is by using space heaters but Rick Berres, owner of Honey-Doers points out there's no point in heating your garage at all if it is not insulated correctly.

He says, 'I always say that there’s no use heating your garage if you’re going to allow the warm air to get out and the cold air to get in through the cracks, so the very first thing I want you to do is seal up all those bits around the door – I know you have them! And only then you can think about heating.'

So, to winterize a garage, begin by insulating the garage door, using insulation board, such as the FOAMULAR NGX F-250 2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. SSE R-10 XPS Rigid Foam Board Insulation available at Home Depot.

Then, seal gaps around doors and windows with caulk, such as the 18152 DAP Caulk available at Amazon, and sealant tape. You may also want to use spray insulation, suggests Max Veggeberg, CEO and founder of Tetra. For example, we recommend the Great Stuff 99108824 Smart Dispenser Gaps & Cracks available at Amazon, for precise control and maximum durability.

In extreme circumstances, if the damage is beyond DIY repair, it is worth considering replacing your garage door or windows altogether, which will help to cut energy bills.

Pair these insulation solutions with curtain hacks for a warmer home in winter and thermal-reflective insulation paint, suggests Francisco Fuenmayor, insured handyman at LocalProBook, for affordable, additional layers of insulation.

Learn when to insulate above a garage, and when to avoid in our dedicated guide.

Once your insulation is in place and all drafty spots have been sealed, get your space heater on the go.

All prices correct at time of publication.

FAQs

Where do garages lose the most heat?

Your garage will lose the most heat through the garage door, which is why, when necessary, you may need to get clued up on how much it costs to replace a garage door. Of course, this will be influenced heavily by size and material, but our expert guide dives into the details.

What temperature should a garage be kept at during winter?

Much like setting your thermostat to a consistent temperature in winter inside your home, you should aim to do the same in your garage. But, of course, this doesn't need to be kept at the same comfort level. Instead, aim to keep your garage at between 40°F and 50°F, and use a thermometer, such as the ThermoPro TP49 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer available at Amazon to accurately keep an eye on the temperature.

Struggling to organize a garage with too much stuff? Start by decluttering your space before investing in effective storage solutions to set yourself up for success.

There's nothing like a grill for home cooking. Grills create a smoky flavor and sear that you just can't match in a kitchen.

The big drawback with grills, however, is that they're only really useful for half the year. When the temperature drops and the snow starts falling, few of us want to be grilling out in the freezing cold.

However, there are a few ways you can make grilling outdoors more bearable. I spoke to several grilling experts about how to grill in winter for burgers and steaks year-round.

1. Allow more time for your grill to heat up

The first thing to bear in mind is that you need more time for your grill to heat. The fire is raising the temperature of the grates from a lower starting point than in summer - in some cases, the metal will be freezing. That naturally means that it will take a little more time.

Grilling expert Sean Martin says that 'All grills will need a little more time to heat up because of the need to get the ambient temperature inside the grill to grill temp. Typically an extra 15 minutes depending on the type of grill. Give yourself 30 minutes if it's really windy.'

This is a crucial step - if the grill isn't hot enough, you'll be out in the cold for longer than you need while your burgers cook. If the grill is really cold, you won't get that tasty Maillard reaction for searing your burgers or chicken.

2. Keep the lid closed - and vents open

It depends on what you're cooking, but if you can, keep the lid of your grill closed in winter. Grill expert Christie Vanover says 'For best results, you should keep the grill lid closed as often as possible when cooking in the winter. Otherwise, cool air will enter the grill, which can prolong cook times.'

Recipe developer Marye Audet agrees. 'Grills lose heat faster in colder temps, so keeping the lid closed as much as possible is key. It’s tempting to keep checking on your food, but every time you open the lid, you’re letting out precious heat. Trust your instincts and maybe a good meat thermometer.'

In cold weather when you need to keep the lid closed, consider a Bluetooth thermometer. A Bluetooth meat thermometer like this at Amazon will send the internal temperature of whatever you're cooking to your phone, so you don't have to open the lid of the grill to check on your food.

But don't completely cut off the air supply. Keep the vents open to stoke the flames while limiting cold air reaching the grates. Grill expert Sean Martin says 'In colder weather you want charcoal grills to have the top and bottom vents open more to allow additional airflow to keep the heat consistent. This is why they typically burn more fuel. Keep the top of the grill shut while warming up and grilling to retain the heat but keep the vents open to keep your target temperature.'

3. Try a thermal blanket

If you don't mind spending a little extra money, you can also insulate your grill with a thermal blanket. Christie Vanover says 'If you have a thin metal grill, you can purchase a thermal blanket. Just be sure to find one designed especially for grills, because they are fire resistant.'

A thermal blanket like this at Amazon helps to raise the ambient temperature in your grill, making it faster to light and heat up in cold temperatures. On top of that, it makes your grill more efficient, so you'll use up fewer pellets, lumps of charcoal, or units of gas.

4. Keep your propane or pellets warm

Christie Vanover also adds that if you use a gas grill, try keeping your propane warm. It should never be exposed to a heat source, but keeping it in a relatively warm place like a garage can save you money in the long run.

Christie says 'When it’s cold, the pressure in propane tanks decreases, which can reduce their efficiency. To prevent this, you can keep your propane tanks in a warm place like a garage or shed until you’re ready to use it. Or you can wrap it with a thermal blanket designed for propane tanks.' These blankets are easy to find at Home Depot or other retailers.

Cold also affects wood fuels. Sean Martin says 'Most charcoal grills, except Kamado Grills, will burn fuel faster to maintain the same heat level when it's cold, so have extra fuel on hand.'

If you want to use a smoker, he also suggests investing in some insulation. Sean says 'If you have a pellet grill consider investing in an insulation accessory that sits over the cooking chamber. This will slow down the rate you burn pellets.

5. Invest in ceramic

If you live somewhere cold and you know that for four months of the year, you'll be grilling in sub-zero temperatures, consider buying a ceramic grill. These grills use ceramic plates rather than metal, which are excellent at conducting and maintaining high temperatures. With a little practice, a ceramic grill can hold high heat for hours.

Christie Vanover says 'How your grill holds temperature in the winter depends on the style and quality. Grills built with thinner metal and without seals around the lid will not maintain heat as well because they aren’t insulated and can let in drafts. Ceramic cookers work great in the winter because they are extremely insulated.'

The drawback is that these grills can be expensive. The best ceramic grills - like our favorite, the Kamado Joe II, available at Best Buy, can set you back thousands of dollars, so this tip won't work for everyone.

6. Move the grill

Sometimes the placement of the grill can be an issue. If it's somewhere windy or exposed, you'll find it harder to light your grill and maintain it at the proper temperature.

However, don't move it closer to your home. While it's tempting to grill next to a wall of your house and use it as a windbreak, it can be dangerous.

Sean Martin says 'Avoid moving your grill closer to your home to avoid any safety issues from flare-ups and grease fires which can still happen in cold weather. Generally, you want any grill 10 feet away from your home.'

Instead, find somewhere a little way away from the house protected by a wall or fence. Sean says 'Instead, consider moving to an area on your patio or deck protected by a large wall (10 feet away) to protect from colder wind, rain, or snow.'

Marye Audet agrees, and adds 'make sure your grilling area is clear of snow and ice so you’re not slipping around out there.'

7. Stick to quick ingredients

Finally, if you can, stick to simple, fast ingredients. Smoking ribs out in the cold can work great, but if it snows or the temperature drops the fire might be extinguished and you lose all your hard work. Instead, try smaller, thinner cuts of meat. There's much less chance of the fire going out and you don't need to stand out in the cold for hours.

Recipe writer Marye Audet says 'One of my favorite winter grilling hacks is to plan meals that cook quickly, like burgers, steaks, or even grilled veggies.'

However, Marye advises that if you do want to smoke or grill something low and slow, use foil to insulate the cuts of meat. Marye says 'If you’re doing something low and slow, like ribs, consider wrapping them in foil to help trap heat and speed things up a bit. Keep a warm tray or insulated container nearby so you can transfer food inside quickly without it cooling down before you’re ready to eat.'

Knowing how to properly maintain your grill can make it a lot easier to use in winter. Learning how to season a grill to keep your grill clean and non-stick is essential, as well as knowing why to stay away from wire grill brushes.

Space was always going to be tight in my apartment. I live in an expensive city, where money doesn't go far, but I was so grateful to be able to buy my tiny home, that I was willing to make the small proportions work.

The open plan living room and kitchen doesn't feel crowded but the tiny bedroom was a whole other story. It didn't have the space to handle any bulky furniture beyond my bed and dresser leaving me without a closet.

That's why I thought a bespoke built-in closet in the corner alcove would be perfect, until I heard the eye-watering costs. Instead, I used a few bits from IKEA to carry out a weekend DIY project that tripled my bedroom storage and cost just a tenth of the price I was quoted for a built-in version.

Turning my tiny bedroom alcove into a closet in one weekend

How I added extra storage to my tiny bedroom with this easy DIY

While I was looking over the many eye-wateringly expensive quotes I received for a really small built-in closet, I had a very handy epiphany, and it all came together in my mind, what I was going to do instead, right down to the last detail.

Even as I explained it excitedly to my partner he couldn't really see the vision. But with a whole load of clothes currently living on the couch, I thought my small closet idea was worth a try.

And five years later, I still love the DIY closet I created and haven't felt the need to switch to a built-in either.

With just five products (mostly from IKEA) I made use of every inch of that alcove space and tripled the bedroom storage I would have had with a small freestanding closet, or the visual clutter of open storage.

What you'll need

• All from The Home Depot
• Spirit level
• Two round wooden dowels: the thicker the better
• Tape measure
• Step ladder
• Two-closet rod sockets
• A drill
• Storage boxes (optional). I like this lidded storage bin which comes in four matte colors
• Chest drawers (optional)
• Heavy curtain (optional)

1. Measure up your space and plan how you use it

The first thing I did for this project is measure up the dimensions of the alcove. This meant I could find the right length dowel for the hanging rail and the curtain rail. But it also meant I could find the right storage pieces to sit at the bottom of the closet. I was so pleased to find that two of the IKEA RAST drawers fit snuggly within the dimensions. And on top of those, three of the DRÖNA boxes.

I would say at this point, while you are measuring up, think about how you want to use the space. Drawers made sense for me as I had limited drawer space elsewhere, but you could add just boxes or leave the space empty for storing bulky items like suitcases or shoes, or longer clothes such as dresses or items clothing bags.

2. Plan the height you want your hanging rail

Then, based on what you want to hang, and what setup you want at the base of your closet, decide on the height of your hanging rail.

If you hang lots of dresses or longer pieces, you want this to be high enough for them to hang nicely without getting creased at the bottom. And make sure the height is at a comfortable one for you to be able to reach up easily and pick out your outfits.

If you weren't hanging too much in your closet, you could even use a tension rod – it would be one of the alternative ways to use a tension rod around your home.

This heavy duty expanding tension curtain rod from Amazon can fit anywhere between 51-126 inches and take the weight of a pair of thick curtains so it will work well if you don't overload it.

3. Mount the hanging rail

Once I had decided on the right height for my space, adding in the hanging rail was the first 'element' I added to the alcove. I checked the measurements of the width of the alcove again, and cut the wooden dowel down to length.

It was a two-person job to ensure it was straight using a spirit level, so I'd recommend a digital laser level if you like doing doing. You can check the straightness without any doubt or help.

I then clearly marked on each side of the alcove where the dowel would need to be secured to the wall. I then drilled each bracket into the wall at the point I had marked – go for half-enclosed brackets, it makes the job far easier.

Lastly, I placed the dowel into the brackets and again used a spirit level to check it was straight.

4. Mount the curtain rail

If you are someone who has an aesthetically pleasing space already packed with closet organisation ideas, you could skip this step and leave your closet open. But I am no such person, so something to cover my closet was a must and a simple, white curtain seemed like the most obvious answer.

For this step, it's very similar to hanging the clothing rail, however, be sure to hang this dowel a few inches from your ceiling. And when adding in the brackets do make sure you have enough room to be able to lift the dowel in and out of place, so you can get it in initially but also so you can easily remove your curtains to wash or switch them out.

5. Add in your extra storage

Before you start hanging clothes, add in any of the extra closet storage ideas you want at the bottom of the closet. Give the empty alcove a quick vacuum first to ensure it's clean and you've got rid of any dust from drilling in the brackets. If you've never used a Damp Duster, available on Amazon, before you're missing out on much easier cleaner.

6. Hang the curtains

The final step is to hang the curtains. I went with something simple and white. Measure your curtains to check they will hang nicely all the way to the floor of your alcove and go for a heavy fabric. These will be like your closet doors so you want them to be thick and strong enough so clothes and hangers aren't always poking through.

I made the mistake of first ordering some gorgeous gauzy ones, which totally weren't up for the job.

Retracing my steps to write about this closet DIY, I have been reminded of not only how easy it was to execute, but how effective it's been. Over the years I have changed out the kind of storage, switched the curtains a few times and I have no plans to change it for a built-in option any time soon.

All the pieces in this DIY cost around $100 and the quote I got for a built-in version was over $1000.

Next, delve into essential DIY skills every homeowner should know.

Last winter, our heating had problems and turned off when the thermostat dipped under 70° Fahrenheit. It was off most of the night as we slept. This mimicked exactly how we'd used our heating for years – for short bursts in the day, and largely off overnight.

I thought being economical with our usage was saving us money but this year, I've learned the opposite is actually true. We recently had a digital thermostat installed and followed our HVAC engineer’s firm advice to set it between 70-72° constantly, and have kept it on non-stop since September.

I’ve been thrilled to see a whopping $200 reduction in our monthly heating bills. Here, our HVAC pro explains why running your thermostat constantly in tandem with a digital thermostat will slash your energy bills.

Running my thermostat constantly has saved me $100s this winter

Last October, my heating bill was so expensive, coming in at an eye-watering $380. To add insult to injury, we were mostly cold and uncomfortable, like every winter before it. This October, our energy bill ran to just $180 and we’ve been very gratefully and consistently warm and comfortable having left the heating on, running the thermostat between 70-72° Fahrenheit.

Josh Mitchell, plumbing pro and owner of Plumbing Lab says it really does work to lower your energy costs. He explains, 'Running heating consistently at a lower, steady temperature can be more efficient than turning it off and reheating a cold home.'

He explains the reasons for it, including avoiding energy spikes and maintaining a stable temperature. Josh says, 'When you let your home cool down overnight or during the day, your system has to work harder to reheat not just the air but also walls, floors, and furniture, which can act as heat sinks. This spike in energy use can offset any savings from turning the heat off, and is a thermostat mistake.

'Heating systems work best when they make small, steady adjustments instead of turning on and off frequently,' Josh adds. 'Modern digital thermostats are better at keeping a consistent temperature, which helps save energy.

Last year, my household was plagued with winter bugs and chest infections. The lack of heating made coughs and illness drag on for longer. We ran the heating as much as we could but honestly, the eye-watering bills of our all electric air source heat pump system meant we couldn’t justify putting the heating on, or up, till our noses and fingers grew too icy to bear.

After we had a digital thermostat installed downstairs this September, the heating engineer urged us to run it between 70-72° constantly and told us not to turn it off again until the weather warms up. He said this would make the house feel warm without constantly turning up the heat, and also reduce or stop condensation on windows as the temperature was constant. Plus, it would lower our bills.

He was absolutely spot on as it takes much more to fully warm our 1000 square foot house rather than top it up slightly throughout the day and night. I admit I was initially a bit scared to follow his advice in case the our energy bills shot up to $500 or so,but am so thrilled to report it really has slashed our bills by around two thirds.

Josh confirms it's the digital thermostat working in tandem with a stable temperature that's clinched it for my household. He says, 'Switching from an analog thermostat to a digital one made a big difference. Digital thermostats are more accurate and help maintain a steady temperature.

'Previously, the system had to work harder with an analog thermostat because it would turn on and off in short bursts, which uses more energy. Switching to a digital thermostat likely helped reduce that extra work, making your heating system more efficient and cost-effective.'

In a time when energy and other living costs are spiraling out of control, this is an enormously welcome result. Even more so as I have a number of chronic health conditions that are painful and worsen with cold weather.

How to pick a thermostat

Josh explains there is a knack to picking a digital thermostat and advises going for:

• Programmable or smart features: A programmable thermostat allows you to set schedules, while smart thermostats let you control heating remotely and learn your preferences over time.
• Energy reports: Some models provide data on your energy usage, helping you understand how to save more.
• Compatibility: Ensure the thermostat works with your heating system. For example, not all thermostats are compatible with heat pumps or multi-stage systems.

And what to avoid:

• Overly complicated systems: If you don’t plan to connect the thermostat to smart home devices, a simpler model may work just as well and save you money.
• Thermostats without back-lit displays: If the thermostat is hard to read in dim lighting, it can be inconvenient to use, especially at night.
• Battery-only models: Some thermostats rely solely on batteries, which can die unexpectedly. Look for a model with hardwiring or backup options for reliability.

FAQs

Should you switch off the heating overnight?

No. Josh Mitchell explains, 'Turning the heat off entirely overnight isn’t always a good idea. In colder weather, letting your home cool too much can lead to condensation on windows and walls, resulting in mold or dampness. The energy needed to reheat the space in the morning can outweigh the savings from turning it off. Plus, if you’re trying to sleep in a cold room, it may be uncomfortable and lead to poorer sleep quality.'

Instead of turning it off, Josh recommends setting the thermostat to a slightly lower temperature overnight, such as 60-65°F. This saves energy without letting the home cool down excessively.

For what it's worth, I've found 70-72° to be a little on the warm side when snug under a thick comforter so that tracks.

Is winter a good time to upgrade your thermostat?

Yes, as many smart thermostats continue to discounted by 20-30% during this time. Josh explains, 'If you’re upgrading your thermostat, look for deals from retailers like Amazon, Walmart, or Home Depot. Also, consider checking if your local energy provider offers rebates for installing energy-efficient thermostats, as this can further offset the cost.'

• Shop digital thermostat deals on Amazon
• Shop Walmart clearance and reduced price thermostat deals
• Shop all thermostats at The Home Depot

Next learn about the cheap air fryer rack I use to double my cooking space and crunch down on the I spent cooking for my family, and why I have the Philips Hue SMART bulbs on my wish list.

Mowers are garden essentials, sure, but for half the year they're surplus to requirements. As we are heading out of mowing season, and you may be wondering what to do with your mower.

Aside from finding the right place to store your lawn mower, is there really anything else you could be doing with it in winter?

I spoke to mowing experts about what else you can use a lawn mower for. They gave me 6 unusual ways to put your mower to good use – even in winter.

1. Mulch leaves

One of the best things you can do in the fall is mulch the leaves on your lawn. Rather than the tedious, hard work of raking or blowing fallen leaves off the lawn, you can mulch the leaves right on the lawn, turning them into useful mulch.

Mowing expert Lee Purcell says 'many lawnmowers have a mulching feature, or can be fitted with mulching blades. By running over leaves, the mower chops them into small, nutrient-rich pieces, which can be left on the lawn to decompose and nourish the soil.'

Best of all, you don't need any special attachments to achieve this. Mowing expert Ken Kohlman adds 'Any kind of rotary-action mower will be able to chop up leaves.' The only thing to remember is that you need to mulch on a dry day. Ken says 'Just make sure the mower has sufficient power and sharp enough blades to handle a dense layer of leaves. This typically works best if the leaves are relatively dry, as wet leaves can clog the mower.'

2. Tow equipment

One of the best ways to use a riding mower is to tow tools and other helpful garden equipment. Whether you need to move firewood, transport your homemade compost to a new bed, or cart heavy tools around the yard, a dump cart takes the strain for you.

Mowing expert Lee Purcell says 'For riding mowers and larger lawn tractors, towing is a common secondary use. You can attach small carts, spreaders, or even trailers to transport tools, soil, or other equipment around a property.'

However, make sure your mower is powerful enough to tow. Ken Kohlman warns 'It depends on the mower’s design and the weight of the equipment. Some riding mowers or tractors have hitch attachments that can be used to pull small carts, trailers, or other garden tools. Just be mindful of the mower’s towing capacity, as exceeding it could damage the transmission or engine.'

3. Dethatch

Dethatching is crucial for a healthy lawn. Pulling up dead grass means makes room for young grass and ensures that water and nutrients from mulch and fertilizer can penetrate into the soil.

Lee Purcell says 'While lawnmowers aren’t traditionally built for dethatching, some models can be fitted with a dethatching attachment, which uses spring tines to pull up dead grass, allowing new growth to thrive.'

But Ken Kohlman warns that a dethatching attachment, like this from Lowe's isn't always the best choice. Ken says 'Some mowers have a thatching attachment or a dethatching rake that can be mounted to the back. However, a dedicated dethatching machine is more effective, otherwise, you risk cutting through the thatch without removing it properly.'

However, this isn't an option for all of us. Separate dethatching machines can be pretty expensive, and a tow-behind dethatcher is much cheaper. Lee says that in the end, a tow-behind detacher 'can save you from investing in a separate dethatching machine'.

4. Spread fertilizer

As well as dethatching, riding mowers can spread fertilizer. A fertilizer attachment like this at Amazon is much faster and more efficient than spreading by hand or with a walk-behind mower.

Ken Kohlman says 'Many riding mowers have a spreader attachment on the back that can distribute seeds, fertilizer, or even sand and salt as you drive across a lawn. This is not something you'd typically do with a push mower.'

Mowing expert Lee Purcell agrees. 'With the right attachment, many riding lawnmowers can also spread fertilizer, grass seed, or even ice melt. This is especially useful for large properties, making the process quicker and more efficient.'

5. Aerate

Aeration punches little holes into the soil on your lawn, allowing for air and water to penetrate into the earth and helping to prevent runoff. An aerator attachment like this at Home Depot is much faster than aerating by hand, saving you hours of work.

Lee Purcell says 'Some mowers can pull aerator attachments, although standalone aerators are usually more effective. But for light aeration, especially on larger properties, this setup can help oxygen and water reach deeper into the soil.'

But Ken Kohlman warns that while effective, this method won't work for every yard. He warns that 'However, for serious aeration – particularly in larger lawns and those with heavy clay soil – a dedicated lawn aerator is recommended.'

6. Snow plow

Finally, the most unusual use for a lawn mower is to clear snow from paths.

Lee Purcell says 'While it might surprise some, some riding mowers can double as snow blowers. With a snowblower attachment, a lawnmower becomes a versatile year-round machine. For those in snowy climates, this is an economical way to clear driveways and walkways.'

You have a couple of options here. There are full-blown snowblower attachments, which scoop up and eject snow and snow blades that just push it out of the way. Snow blower attachments are more effective, but snow blades like this at Lowe's are much cheaper.

Now that we're out of the mowing season, it's time to prepare for the winter. Learning how to winterize a lawn will ensure thick, healthy grass for next spring.

Gozney has been at the forefront of making some of the top pizza ovens for years. Their ovens are fast, make delicious pizza, and look better than any other brand on the market. They're the perfect capstone to any outdoor kitchen setup.

However, even though Gozney produces some of the best pizza ovens, they will cost you more than almost any other brand. Their top-line oven, the original Dome, usually costs $2000, twice as much as the nearest competitor.

Last year, the best prices were on Black Friday, but there are still lots of other opportunities to buy the brand for less. Here's all you need to know about one of our favorite pizza ovens – and how you can game the system to get one for a discount.

Where to shop the best Gozney deals

Here are all the places you can buy deals from Gozney - as it stands, Gozney itself is the best place to buy one of these ovens.

• Gozney: 10-20% off every Gozney pizza oven, and free shipping when you spend over $50.
• Amazon: enjoy Prime delivery on a range of Gozney pizza ovens and accessories.
• The Home Depot: Shop the bestselling Gozney pizza ovens.
• Ace Hardware: Ace Rewards members get free assembly and delivery.

Our favorite Gozney pizza ovens

Below are the Gozney pizza ovens that we always look out for in the sales. They are products that have been tested, rated and come highly recommended by experts. The handy deal widgets will also tell you whether they are currently at a discounted price. You can read more about each product in our dedicated reviews, which we've highlighted on each product block.

When to shop for Gozney deals

Like many other brands and retailers, Gozney uses certain sale periods and key times of the year to release big discounts on their products. To help you shop at the right time of year, we've rounded up the key shopping dates below.

Amazon Prime Day

It's not always the case, but sometimes you can find Gozney ovens on sale for Amazon Prime Day. There are usually two Prime Day events a year. In 2024, the two sales fell on the 16th-17th of July and the 8th-9th of October.

Prime Day has huge discounts, but you need to be a member to take advantage. If you're a new user, you can get a 30-day free membership.

Gozney Summer Sale

Gozney doesn't run discounts on all the big sales weekends throughout the year, and their last Summer Sale only had two ovens on offer. We predict that the coming Black Friday will be the best time to buy a Gozney pizza oven, and you won't see better prices for the rest of the year.

Black Friday

Black Friday is the Friday straight after Thanksgiving. The day sees big discounts on a huge range of products, as retailers shift stock that didn't sell in the runup to Thanksgiving and try to jump-start Christmas shopping. The day has since turned into more than a week of discounts, with the following Monday nicknamed 'Cyber Monday' due to its particular focus on tech discounts.

This year, Black Friday will fall on November 28th, with Cyber Monday following on December 1st.

Historically, Black Friday is the best time to get a deal on a Gozney oven. Gozney's ovens just went on sale, as well as some of their pizza oven accessories. All of these ovens are discounted on Amazon, too.

Bear in mind that the prices won't drop much on the day itself, and stock may run out before then. If you want a good deal on a Gozney oven, it might be smart to buy it early in the month while the price is low and the stock is high.

How we source the top Gozney deals

For more information about how we test pizza ovens, take a look at our guide to how we test.

Here, we use our in-person tests of all these ovens to inform our recommendations, as well as factor in the price and percentage discount of a particular deal.

We keep an eye on all of the major retailers so that we can spot new Gozney deals. We also have sources in the company so we know ahead of time when deals will land.

FAQs

When is the best time of year for Gozney deals?

Black Friday is the best time of year for Gozney deals because it sees all of their ovens go on sale and bigger discounts than at any other time of the year. Last year, all the lowest prices fell during Black Friday.

Still not sure if a Gozney is for you?

Gozney ovens are some of the most expensive around, so it's smart to see if other brands offer better value. In our detailed breakdown of Ooni vs Gozney, we found that Ooni ovens are often cheaper and make better pizza, but they're boring black-and-gray designs that aren't as stylish as Gozney's.

It's also worth weighing up indoor pizza ovens. Gozney has yet to make an indoor pizza oven, so you can only use their ovens when the weather is good. If you live somewhere wintry or have limited outdoor space, it's worth considering one of these ovens.

If your basement feels more like an overlooked storage space than an inviting part of your home, it’s time to reconsider how you’re heating it. Whether it's a practical laundry area, a stylish home office, or a cozy living room, the right heating can transform your basement into a warm, welcoming space you’ll want to spend time in.

Choosing the perfect heating solution depends on how often you use the space and the level of investment you’re prepared to make. For quick, temporary warmth, our pros suggest portable heaters, but for lasting comfort, options like ductless mini-splits or radiant floor heating could be ideal, say HVAC experts.

With a variety of heating types to choose from, it's important to find a method that complements both your lifestyle and needs. Whether your basement is a lively hub of activity or serves as home storage, these expert-recommended solutions will keep it warm and inviting year-round.

Best ways to heat a basement

Whether you’re working with a damp, underutilized room or a fully furnished living area, these expert-approved basement ideas should easily keep a basement warm.

1. Portable space heaters

'For basements that aren’t used frequently, portable space heaters are a great option,' recommends WG Hickman, owner of Tri-County Air Service. These compact heaters offer quick, on-demand warmth without the hassle of complicated installations. Infrared and oil-filled radiators, in particular, are simple to move and can be positioned exactly where you need that extra bit of heat.

You do need to be mindful of space heater mistakes to avoid whilst using these appliances.

Hickman adds that portable heaters are ideal for short-term warmth, perfect for when you're just spending a few hours in the basement. 'They allow you to heat specific areas without committing to a full heating system or costly HVAC installation,' he explains. But he stresses the importance of safety. 'Always position your heater away from flammable materials, especially in spaces like laundry or storage rooms.'

While portable space heaters offer convenience, Hickman cautions that they aren't a permanent fix for larger or uninsulated basements. 'If your basement has persistent cold spots, it's worth exploring more permanent heating solutions for consistent comfort.'

Temperature control is one way to get rid of mold in a basement.

All prices were correct at time of publication.

2. Electric Baseboard Heaters

'Electric baseboard heaters are a simple and budget-friendly way to add heat to a basement,' explains Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and the owner of Air Conditioner Lab. They’re easy to install, require minimal maintenance, and are perfect for heating smaller spaces like utility rooms or home gyms. Their affordability – typically ranging from $60 to $300 – also makes them an accessible option for anyone who isn't ready to invest in a more complex heating system but still wants effective warmth in key areas.

Baseboard heaters work by emitting heat along the walls, making them ideal for areas where space is limited. You can control each heater individually, allowing you to heat specific rooms without wasting energy. However, Josh Mitchell warns, 'Make sure the heater you choose is the right size for your space – too small, and it won’t provide enough heat; too large, and it may use more energy than necessary.'

While electric baseboard heaters are great for smaller areas, they may struggle to warm up larger or uninsulated basements. In these cases, a more powerful heating system is often the better solution.

3. Extending Your Existing HVAC System

'If your basement is used as a living space, tapping into your existing HVAC system is often the best solution,' says Julian Picard, HVAC expert and owner of Centerline Mechanical. 'This option is particularly useful for basement conversions that are frequently used. By adding duct work or vents, you can ensure consistent warmth throughout these spaces.'

Learn more basement ideas to make best use of this overlooked space.

'It’s important to consult with an HVAC professional to assess whether your system can handle the additional load,' Picard advises. Overloading your system could lead to uneven temperatures or unexpectedly expensive heating. 'An HVAC technician will be able to evaluate your system’s capacity and recommend whether any upgrades or adjustments are needed to avoid these issues.'

Since extending your existing HVAC system is quite a hands-on task, professional installation is essential. A qualified HVAC technician can ensure the job is done properly, minimizing the risk of long-term damage. It's also important to factor in installation costs, which can range from $500 to $2,000, depending on your home’s layout and the complexity of the extension.

4. Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pumps

'For basements, my top recommendation is a ductless mini-split system,' says Julian Picard. These units are known for their efficiency and versatility, offering both heating and cooling options in one handy package. Mini-splits are particularly well-suited to basements, as they perform reliably even in freezing temperatures while also reducing a home's humidity levels – a common issue in below-ground spaces that can lead to basement mold.

Ideal for moisture-prone areas, many models come equipped with a dehumidifying setting, making them a smart choice for basements with damp concerns. Plus, with zoned temperature control, you can heat only the areas you use

Although the upfront costs are higher – especially with installation – energy savings and state rebates make mini-splits a cost-effective, long-term investment. Of course, Picard reminds us, basement insulation is key. 'Even the best system won't perform efficiently if your basement isn’t properly insulated,' he cautions.

Learn where to insulate in your home to keep it warm in winter.

5. Radiant floor heating

For those planning a full basement renovation, radiant floor heating is a luxurious option worth considering. This system works by embedding heating elements beneath the floor, delivering even, consistent warmth throughout the space – perfect for transforming a cold, unwelcoming basement into a cozy living area and comfort underfoot.

When choosing the best basement flooring to pair with radiant heating, concrete and tile are ideal options. These materials conduct heat efficiently, helping to evenly distribute warmth across the room. While the installation can be expensive – especially when factoring in other potential renovations costs – the energy efficiency and comfort that radiant floor heating provides make it a smart, long-term investment.

Keep in mind that professional installation is required for underfloor heating systems, and it’s best timed with a larger renovation.

FAQs

What is the best way to heat a damp basement?

Damp basements require a heating solution that provides warmth while also controlling moisture. A ductless mini-split system is a great choice, as many models include a built-in dehumidifier. This ensures the unit can efficiently heat your basement without adding extra humidity to the space.

It’s also a good idea to invest in a standalone dehumidifier to further combat moisture levels. Consider the GE 50-Pint Dehumidifer from Home Depot, which is our best dehumidifier overall.

Can I use radiant floor heating in a basement with moisture issues?

Radiant floor heating works best in basements that have been properly waterproofed. So, if your basement has moisture issues, you will need to address them first. Not only does waterproofing protect your home, but it also helps cut energy bills by ensuring your heating system operates efficiently. Once moisture is under control, radiant floor heating is a great option for cozy, even warmth.

Should you insulate a basement before installing heating?

Yes, insulating your basement – especially insulating your basement ceiling – is essential to getting the best performance from your heating system. Without proper insulation, much of the heat will escape, leading to inconsistent warmth and higher energy costs.

What is the most energy-efficient way to heat a basement?

Ductless mini-split systems are among the most energy-efficient ways to heat a basement. They allow you to heat specific zones, which minimizes energy waste. Radiant floor heating, combined with good insulation, is another popular option for maintaining consistent warmth without excess energy use.

Meet our experts

To create a basement you’ll actually want to spend time in, it’s essential to improve basement ventilation alongside heating. Good airflow reduces moisture, prevents mold from developing, and ensures the space stays fresh and inviting year-round.

The Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System is a great product that, for the most part, moves the needle forward from Shark's previous floorcare appliances. One thing that really elevates it amongst its own lineup is the fact that its telescopic tube can fold for easier access under furniture.

Of course, there are other things on offer that make it worthy of consideration among the best cordless vacuums. It comes with powerful suction, especially for a cordless stick, more powerful in fact than the Shark Cordless Detect Pro. It has a stable self-emptying base station with a place for all the attachment tools – I typically have at least one that’s just floating around – not to mention that it houses Shark’s odor neutralizer puck.

I tested the Shark Cordless PowerDetect to find out how well it performs, how useful the features are, and whether it's worth the $500 price point.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Price

The Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System is priced as high as any of the company’s other products, going for an MSRP of $499.99 directly through Shark, though it’s discounted to $449.99 at the time of writing.

Whether you get it through the company directly or an external retailer won’t make a difference price-wise as Amazon, The Home Depot, and Best Buy all offer it at the same price and with the same 10% discount.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Specifications

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Unboxing and setup

Setting up the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System is relatively easy. Like most cordless vacuums, it comes in a handful of pieces that quickly clip together to go from disassembled to assembled.

The box it comes in is fairly tall as the base station comes in one piece, with the exception of a little side stand that provides an extra attachment tool seat – there’s also one on the base station itself (there are two included attachment tools).

The cordless vacuum itself comes in three pieces: the floorhead, the telescopic tube, and the handheld vacuum that houses the dust cup and motor. It takes about a minute to clip these altogether once removed from the box.

Lastly, this unit comes with Shark’s odor neutralizer technology. The puck comes in a sealed package that takes a second to open. There’s a slot in the base station where you insert and twist the puck into place. Note that it does need to be replaced from time to time.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Design and features

The Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System, which comes in an interesting dark gray, white, purple, and clear colorway, is a stick vacuum with a self-emptying base station, two attachment tools, and an odor-neutralizer puck that slots in the base station.

The base station also acts as a dock for the stick vacuum, charging it when not in use and holding it up so you don’t have to find a place to store it. It even has a place to put one of the attachment tools and an extra base that slips underneath the side to put the other.

Its dustbin, which is supposed to hold about 45 days worth of debris (it all depends on how dirty your place is), pulls out fairly easily from the back and opens at the bottom to drop the contents in the trash. I appreciate that you don’t have to invest in replaceable bags, though some might prefer that since there’s more risk of dirt and debris escaping when being emptied.

The only real issue I have with the base station is the fact that the cradle fits the stick vacuum quite snugly so that, if you don’t gingerly place it back on there, it won’t fit properly and, therefore, won’t start charging back up or self-empty.

Moving on to the stick vacuum, it’s pretty straightforward if you’ve ever used a cordless stick vacuum with just a few twists. The floorhead has two brushrolls – one covered in a felt-type material and anti-hair-tangle-type rubber one with a line of bristles – that only starts turning when not fully upright, meaning it will disengage if you stand it fully up (maybe you have to pick something up off the floor). It also has lights that will illuminate dirt and debris on the floor that you might not see.

The telescopic tube is probably the most unique part of this vacuum since it has a foldable section near the top. You press a lever in the back and it folds back in an L-shape so that you can push the vacuum under furniture.

The handheld section holds the controls, which consists of a power button on top and a trigger button on the handle to switch between modes, and an LED panel that indicates which of the three modes you’re on. There’s an eco mode, auto mode, and max mode. The LED panel will also let you know how much battery is left, but only via four indicators so you won’t know exactly how much battery is left.

Lastly, there are two attachment tools: a crevice tool and a pet-multi tool. They clip easily onto the handheld portion so that, like most stick vacuums, you can use the vacuum to tackle jobs like upholstery, cleaning out a car, or reaching higher places.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Performance tests

The Shark Cordless PowerDetect is pretty powerful. I’ve reviewed a few other cordless models from Shark and this one seems to have the strongest suction. Just for comparison’s sake, it has 380 watts on hand, which is the amount of power that the vacuum uses during cleaning. The Shark Stratos Cordless Vacuum uses 309, and the Shark Cordless Detect Pro uses 240. I’ve had personal experience with both and found them to do the job well.

As far as cordless vacuums go, it’s hard to ask for more from the Shark Cordless PowerDetect. I tested it on carpets, upholstery, and hard flooring and it had no issues sucking up debris and dust. I even used it to vacuum two rooms that had been untouched for a week, but that seemed clean, and found its 0.74qt dust cup to be a quarter full of pet hair, dust, and dirt.

I also did our go-to test for vacuums with a number of substances lined up on the ground, in this case: cereal, flour, granulated sugar, and breadcrumbs. On forward passes, the Shark Cordless PowerDetect picked everything that it could fit in its floorhead.

Now, since the cereal (specifically Cheerio's if you’re curious) was larger, not all of it was picked up on the first go. Since Shark advertises this vacuum as being able to vacuum in both forward and backward passes, this represented the perfect chance to see how it does when reversing to finish the job. Unfortunately, backwards pickup, while there, was not as good as when moving in a forward motion with cereal getting stuck behind the vacuum and requiring extra effort or turning around and vacuuming into the cereal to pick it up.

Outside of that though, the performance is quite good for a cordless vacuum. It does well on edges so I only needed to break out the crevice tool for hard-to-reach places and could cover an entire room’s floor in the vacuum’s standard setup.

Plus, with that foldable section in the telescopic tube, it’s much easier to get under furniture than I’ve experienced with any other vacuum. There are other vacuums that can get as deep, but they bend at the floorhead, so you have to adjust your posture to reach under, say, a couch. With this, you just press the lever for it to fold and go on as usual. And once you’re done, you can use a forward motion while holding it to snap it back into its regular orientation.

As far as other uses go, its handheld portion is lightweight enough that using one of the attachments on a wall for cobwebs or on upholstery is easy and not all that taxing. Bear in mind that it’s not as light as corded stick vacuums as they don’t also have a lithium battery that you also have to hold up. Its performance in those tasks were good as well, being able to easily suck up pet hair off a couch cushion, for instance.

Those with vast amounts of carpet will find that this does a good job there as well. I used this vacuum on the carpet in a room where our cat likes to spend most of her time and it pulled up a good amount of hair out of the carpet that I didn’t even see. It’s not going to be as powerful as standard upright vacuums – that’s the case for cordless vacuums in general – but it’s powerful enough.

Regardless of what surface you use the Shark Cordless PowerDetect on, it is on the louder side. The eco mode is the quietest at 68 dB while Max is about 72 dB. That’s not atypical for vacuums, but you’re not going to be able to vacuum with this model in the middle of the night (well, you shouldn’t if you share your household or walls with anyone).

Lastly, the battery life here is listed as 70 minutes. Though the LED display only shows four indicators for battery life, it took me about 15 minutes to go from four indicators lit up to three on the heavy setting. So, if you use the eco mode, you’ll get your 70 minutes (and eco mode still picks up at least most visible debris just as well). But using the more powerful settings will still net a very reasonable 60 minutes of use.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Maintenance

When it comes to maintenance, the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System is pretty straightforward, like most modular vacuums. You can easily unclip the floorhead from the telescopic tube from the handheld if something is stuck. The dust cup and the dust bin are easily accessible.

And in the base station, when you remove the dust bin, not only is it easy to open but it sits on filters that can be removed and washed or replaced.

Cleaning out the floorhead is fairly easy as the felt brushroll, which is the one in front has a latch on the side that allows you to remove and clean it. While the other brushroll isn’t removable, it does have plenty of clearance if there’s a blockage or you need to get in there to cut something that’s tangled around it. That said, I have yet to see any hair wrapped in there and have been using this vacuum in a household with two dogs, two women with long hair, and three men, two of which have plenty of facial hair.

How does the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System compare?

It might be unfair to compare the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System to the Dyson Gen5detect, a cordless vacuum that is not only twice the price but one of our favorite cordless vacuums available right now. But it is instructive to see how it compares, considering that the Shark does a lot of the same things insofar that it can also get to 70 minutes of battery life, has washable filters, and can illuminate all sorts of dirt on the floor, not to mention be used on multiple surface types. Plus, it adds a twist in that foldable telescopic tube.

However, the Dyson is a little lighter, has much stronger illumination, and offers much more detail on the LED panel, specifically on the particles it picks up. It is the better vacuum, but it’s also twice the price and doesn’t come with a self-emptying base station like the Shark Cordless PowerDetect.

Since many people’s barometers are Dysons, let’s pick another to compare the Shark to: the Dyson V8 Animal cordless vacuum, which is actually cheaper but only when the Shark Cordless PowerDetect is not on sale. In this case, the main benefit of the Dyson is that it’s lighter, comes with four attachments, and has the name Dyson.

It doesn’t have a self-emptying base station, it only has 40 minutes of battery, the dust cup on the vacuum itself is smaller, and the Dyson has issues with hair wrapping around the brushroll. If you need a Dyson, it’s a great vacuum. But, if you’re willing to get away from that name – and Shark as a brand is no slouch, either – the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System has more to offer in terms of features.

Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System: Verdict

I have gotten my hands on a few different Shark products, most notably the Shark Stratos Cordless Vacuum and the Shark Cordless Detect Pro, and can honestly say that the Shark Cordless PowerDetect Clean and Empty System is the company’s best cordless product to date.

The price tag is a bit high if you’re not the kind of person that’s willing to pay Dyson-type prices. But its $500 cost is worth it when you consider the fact that it can fold to get under furniture, has a long battery life, can transform into various modes the way stick vacuums can, and has a lot of power for a cordless. It’s still not going to match something like the Shark POWERDETECT Upright Vacuum, but again, cordless stick vacuums are typically less powerful than their corded brethren precisely because their functionality is built around convenience.

Outside of price, the only real issues are that it can be tricky to put back in the self-emptying base station’s cradle and the fact that its reverse pickup isn’t as strong as advertised. But, what it has to offer really mitigates those small issues.

If you're seeking to find more sustainable ways of gardening, especially when it comes to watering, investing in a reliable vessel to collect rainwater in your yard is a must.

There are many different ways to do this, but the most common way people choose to harvest rainwater is to install a water butt. This is a tank or barrel, often cylindrical in shape, that collects water via a downpipe that would otherwise overflow from gutters or run into a drain.

However, water butts are not always the most aesthetically pleasing yard accessory. We spoke to experts to learn about a stylish alternative - a rain pot - looking into how they work and what commonalities they share with the trusty (yet often clumsy-looking) water butt.

What is a rain pot?

When it comes to harvesting rainwater and reducing water waste in your yard, a rain pot is not too dissimilar from a water butt, but there are some notable differences.

A rain pot typically features an open top to catch rain and a faucet on the side to dispense the water as needed, like this Amphora terracotta water harvesting pot from Home Depot. They are more decorative than rain barrels and water butts, often made from ceramic pot, terracotta, stone, zinc or hammered copper.

The material and shape of these pots will vary to meet your desired aesthetic. But generally speaking, a rain pot will be smaller in size and more decorative than a large water butt. They can also double as a planter, and be filled with flowers and shrubs that thrive in water-logged soil.

Sally McCabe, Associate Director of Community Education at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS), explains: 'Because gardeners in different regions use different terms for many of the same things, let's clarify what we're calling a water butt, what makes something a rain pot, and what rain barrels, water tanks, and self-watering pots are,' says Sally.

'All are ways to store water; what varies is size, purpose, how the water gets in, how long the water stays in, and how the water gets out.'

What are the pros of using a rain pot?

There are several pros to using a rain pot. Firstly, when your rain pot is getting too full, you can easily prevent it from overflowing by letting some water out of the faucet to use elsewhere in your garden, whether that is directly onto a flower bed, or into a watering can.

They are also much easier and less messy to extract water from when filling up watering cans, meaning less spillage and wastage of your harvested rainwater.

Rain pots also tend to look better in your garden. The Impressions Corsican rain saver from Walmart, for instance, is very stylish without the bulkiness of a standard water barrel. Being typically smaller in size than a multi-gallon water tank, your rain pot can blend in with your planting better, and becomes a conscious part of your landscaping rather than a bit of an eyesore.

Are rain pots a good alternative to traditional water butts?

Whether a rain pot is better than a water butt or rain barrel depends on what you need for your yard. As Sally mentioned, all water harvesting solutions serve a different purpose, so if you're building an aesthetic gardenscape and would love the addition of a decorative rainwater vessel it would likely be best for you.

However, if you have small children and animals, they could be at risk if you have an open ran pot in your yard. Therefore, sticking to a traditional water butt, or making sure you choose a pot with a lid, might be best for you.

FAQs

What maintenance does a rain pot require?

Sally McCabe, Associate Director of Community Education at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS), says: 'Rain pots need to be drained regularly, cleaned periodically, and upended at least yearly. They should also be treated with BTi (bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) to keep mosquitoes from becoming a problem. This is a naturally occurring bacteria that helps control mosquito larvae.'

How can I maintain a rain pot in winter?

Depending on the material your rain pot is made from, it could be wise to empty your rain pot and move it in the winter to protect from freezing and cracking.

Jenny Rose Carey, a professional horticulturist, author and gardener, says: 'I have old whiskey barrels that are used as water butts and rain barrels. I have had them for many years and only have them connected in the summer months when my family are watering our outdoor plants. We have very cold winters, so if we left the water in the barrel it would freeze solid and probably break and leak next year.'

'Rain water is good for plants because it doesn't have the added chemicals that are sometimes found in tap water,' notes Jenny Rose Carey. 'Rain pots are a great way for a gardener to save use the free rain water that is coming from their roof to keep moisture-loving plants healthy.'

To add to your decorative rain pot, you could also switch a traditional downpipe for a rain chain to create a gentle, mesmerizing sound and a meditative feature.

We're always looking for ways to save money at home, particularly during costly renovations.

When it comes to keeping a house warm, glass wool insulation uses melted, spun glass for an eco-friendly alternative to traditional insulation options, such as mineral wool.

But how do you know if it's right for your home before investing? And what are the pros and cons? We spoke to construction and insulation experts for their thoughts, so you can keep your house warm without turning up the heat.

What is glass wool insulation – and how to know if it's right for your home

What is glass wool insulation?

During house-builds and renovations, one of the main things to consider is insulation to keep rising energy costs as low as possible. Consider all areas, including insulating a basement ceiling or even insulating a crawl space.

Using traditional materials such as mineral wool, available at Amazon can be costly, so glass wool is an effective, cheaper alternative you may not have heard of before.

'Glass wool insulation is a fun name for fiberglass insulation,' says Josh Rudin, owner at ASAP Restoration LLC, with over 20 years of experience in the construction industry. 'It is a blend of glass filaments and fibers made from spun melted glass at extremely high temperatures.'

The fine glass fibers then trap air to reduce heat transfer, holding warmth into your home. 'It's inexpensive, fire-resistant, and easy to install,' adds Jerome Bertuglia, owner of a residential construction company, Prime Homes, Inc., with over 30 years of experience with glass wool insulation.

What are the pros of glass wool insulation?

One of the most attractive pros of using glass wool insulation is that it is cheaper than traditional alternatives, and can be used to keep your attic at a comfortable temperature year round.

'Glass wool insulation is a very effective insulation, mainly for dry areas of the country,' says Matt Balducci, co-owner & CEO of HomeHero Roofing. 'The major "pro" of this material is that it insulates very well, keeping your home warm during the winter and cool during the summer.'

Martin Orefice, CEO of Rent to Own Labs also points out that it's simple to install, so can be used for any DIY renovation projects. He says, 'It's easy for homeowners to install themselves, making it a great option for DIY projects to retrofit attics and basements,' and it will save you money on home renovations and add value to your home, too. It's also highly fire resistant, so can be used to ensure your attic is safe.

And, if you're wondering why your heating is so expensive, Jason Hedtler, owner of Hedtler Roofing LLC, assures, 'I've found that in attics, glass wool cuts energy bills up to 25% in Massachusetts.'

What are the cons of glass wool insulation?

So, with so many pros, what are the cons of using glass wool insulation in your home?

Importantly, glass wool is not water-resistant. 'In fact if fiberglass insulation gets wet at all it will nearly instantly lose it’s insulation properties and at the same time become a substrate for old and mildew growth to run rampant,' says Rudin.

Owing to this, it loses effectiveness over time, and may need replacing more regularly than other alternatives. This is important if you live in a humid area. 'It is mainly suitable for areas without high humidity, since in damp conditions this insulating material will not work as well,' warns Balducci.

If you do attempt to DIY install this insulation, it is also prudent to note that glass wool insulation will cause extreme skin irritation. While there is no evidence that fiberglass poses severe risks like asbestos, there is still ongoing debate. 'One warning: protect yourself when handling this material,' says Orefice. 'The glass fibers can easily get into your skin, causing irritation.'

Be sure to wear fiberglass protection gloves, available at specialist stores, safety goggles such as the DEWALT DPG82-11 Concealer Clear Anti-Fog Dual Mold Safety Goggle available at Amazon, and a mask, such as the 8511 N95 Sanding and Fiberglass Disposable Respirator with Cool Flow Valve available at Home Depot.

Because of this, you may be wondering if you should hire a handyman. If you choose to, our essential guide to attic conversions is filled with handy advice from the pros, before you find a good contractor for your next project.

How do you know whether glass wool insulation is right for your home?

The first thing to consider is where you live – if your home is somewhere humid, rule out glass wool insulation immediately.

'To determine if it’s right for you, consider your budget, and whether you’re insulating an attic or walls,' says Bertuglia. 'In colder areas, higher R-values are better.'

The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance. The higher the R-value, the more thermally resistant your home will be. 'For attics, loose-fill glass wool is common; for walls, batts or blankets are typical,' adds Bertuglia.

'In my experience, glass wool suits many homes in Massachusetts if attic R-values of R-38 and wall R-values of R-13 are used,' says Hedtler. 'Higher R-values provide better insulation for the cost in cold weather. With proper thickness and professional installation, glass wool can lower heating bills despite downsides.

For the price, it's hard to beat if installed correctly.'

FAQs

What is the safest insulation to breathe in?

Insulation gets a bad reputation for being harmful to breathe in, but if you want a non-toxic option mineral wool or foam insulation inserts can be used, although foam inserts often contain formaldehyde. If you're looking for sustainable home renovation tips, our expert-led guide suggests ways to make your home more eco-friendly with features of sustainable design.

To stay safe, wear a protective mask during installation,

Did you know you can arrange a room to maximise heat and cut your energy costs?

Completing a DIY project and looking down at the drywall-dust-covered floor can leave you feeling like the work never ends. It leads you to the natural next question: can I just vacuum this?

But even the best vacuum cleaners can't handle everything, and drywall dust is quite a harsh substance to be filling your vacuum with.

So, can you vacuum drywall dust? And if not, what can you do instead? Here's everything you need to know about cleaning drywall dust, whether you're knocking down walls or nailing a picture.

How to clean drywall dust

We spoke with cleaning pros and property experts to find out all the hidden tricks to cleaning up drywall, safely.

Can you use a vacuum to clean drywall dust?

You can vacuum drywall dust, but there are factors to consider before you do so. It depends on the type of vacuum you own and the volume of dust you're looking to clean up.

'Drywall dust consists of very fine particles of gypsum and other compounds, which are much smaller than typical dirt particles your vacuum was designed to handle,' explains Taylor Riley, property cleaning expert and founder of Boom FSA.

The better the vacuum filter, the finer the particles it can capture. So, to be able to vacuum up the super-fine particles found in drywall dust, you'll need a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter.

'Most household vacuums, unless equipped with HEPA filters, are not designed to trap these smaller dust particles,' Taylor warns, highlighting the danger of your vacuum losing suction power. 'Therefore, if you plan to use a vacuum, it’s essential to choose the right one.'

First off – a HEPA filter is a must. This high-efficiency filter type can be found in many of the best cordless vacuums and best upright vacuums, and a filter has to pass rigorous, standardized testing to be able to be labelled as 'HEPA.'

But as well as a HEPA filter, you'll need the vacuum itself to be a sturdy one, too. A wet/dry vacuum (also referred to as a shop vac) with a HEPA filter is perfect for this job, and they can be relatively inexpensive too.

'Their filters are designed such that they capture extremely fine particles like drywall dust without allowing them to be released back into the air,' says Maria Anderson, cleaning and organizing expert at Heinfield Storage.

'They are also often built a little sturdier which makes them easier to handle the abrasive nature of drywall dust, [and] their robust construction ensures longevity and effectiveness,' she adds.

If you don't already own one, here's what we recommend to best tackle drywall dust:

How else can you clean drywall dust?

If you don't own a durable vacuum with a HEPA filter, and you're not in the market for an upgrade, there are other ways to tackle the mess left behind by drywall. Once again, the best technique depends on the type of mess you're creating as Al Ruggie of ASAP Restoration, puts it, 'It’s a project dependent question.'

'If you are going to make only a screw or nail hole to put up some art, then the best method is to take a sticky note, fold it to make a double ridge out of the not-sticky end, and then place the sticky end below where you plan on putting the screw into the drywall,' Al recommends.

Sweeping the dust up with a broom is a simple but effective method, that can be followed by mopping your floors the right way. Sweeping will remove the larger debris while a mop should be able to pick up the smaller particles and sanitize the surface.

'If you have multiple walls that need drywall removed and replaced, then you should either set up a containment unit with plastic sheeting,' Al suggests. 'Then set up an air scrubber and filter all of the negative air pressure inside the unit.'

'Since most people aren’t going to go to extremes like this, you might also just want to hire a professional that specializes in dustless demolitions. It’s a more expensive process than a normal demolition job, but that can be worth it for the cleanliness factor and the peace of mind.'

Air scrubbers (available at Home Depot) are expensive machines, and likely won't get much use once your home renovation is finished. This is why it can sometimes be more financially-responsible to hire a professional.

Next, consult our first-time renovator's guide, learn these sustainable home renovation tips as well things you shouldn't clean during a remodel.

Having a vacuum cleaner on hand when dealing with a pest problem can be a huge savior. Rather than having to manually clear away countless insects, our vacuums can do the work for us, all whilst sucking them into a handy sealed container.

But even the best vacuum cleaners might not be completely airtight. After vacuuming pests, there are some absolutely essential steps you must then take to avoid them from re-entering your home, or wreaking havoc elsewhere, exterminators say

With the many common pests to watch out for this fall, here's everything you need to know about vacuuming pests, and every step you must take afterwards.

What to do after vacuuming pests

1. Empty the vacuum outside

'Empty that vacuum outside immediately,' advises Garrett Thrasher, co-owner and general manager at Thrasher Pest Control. Unless you want pest eggs to hatch indoors again, this is always the first precaution to take.

Our pros strongly advise keeping the contents sealed to avoid further infestation, when getting rid of pill bugs indoors, for example, or any other kind of pest.

'Always empty it outside in a sealed bag before putting it in a trash can outdoors,' recommends Rocky Beninato, founder of Quality Affordable Pest Control. This will prevent vacuumed-up pests from re-entering your home.

James Agardy, associate certified entomologist and technical and training manager at Viking Pest Control, explains why this step is so important. 'While the force of getting tumbled around inside the vacuum will kill most insects, you never want to dispose of the debris in an interior trash receptacle because any insects that were not killed could escape the garbage can and potentially infest a new area.'

2. Clean the vacuum's dustbin

If your vacuum uses bags (rather than a dustbin you empty yourself), simply dispose of the dust bag immediately after vacuuming. Vacuum bags typically utilize tight seals so you can throw them in the outdoor trash bin without having to seal them yourself.

But if yours has a dustbin, you'll need to thoroughly clean it after emptying. 'If your vacuum has a reusable canister instead of bags, use hot water and soap to clean it thoroughly before bringing it back inside,' Rocky recommends. Once cleaned, make sure to let it air dry completely before reattaching it to your vacuum.

Don't forget about the rest of the vacuum, either. Pests and their eggs will have travelled through your vacuum to get to the dustbin or bag, so make sure to thoroughly clean your vacuum cleaner by taking it apart and tackling every component.

3. Clean the affected area in your home

'Clean and sanitize the area just vacuumed to ensure any remaining debris or eggs are cleaned up,' advises Tyler Hawkins, regional field manager at Fox Pest Control.

Pests, their eggs and their droppings can often be microscopic and invisible to the naked eye, so doing this will ensure the area is truly pest-free. A pest infestation doesn't necessarily mean your home isn't clean, but cleaning all surfaces as thoroughly as you can will certainly help a resurgence.

To avoid them coming back in the future, it's also a smart idea to stock up on some active pest control solution, such as the Harris Home Pest Control from Walmart to protect your home from all sorts of pests and insects. This is particularly important for cockroach infestations, as there are even things that attract roaches to clean houses.

4. Eliminate food sources

To keep those pests from coming back, you need to stop feeding them. Aside from hiding cheese from any mice (this, it turns out, is actually one of many pest control myths) – leaving food out and accessible to pests will keep them coming back.

There are eight steps to pest-proofing your pantry, but the main objective is to keep food in airtight (or vacuum-sealed) containers, and make sure the surrounding area is clean, dry, and contains natural pest repellents.

5. Seal any entrances

Finally, sealing any cracks around the house will prevent pests from re-entering your home. 'Look for cracks or crevices where the pest may have entered the home and seal those areas with caulking or something similar,' says Tyler.

Whether it's openings in the walls or doors that aren't properly sealed, pests can find their way in through the smallest of gaps. You can find caulk and sealants of all types at Home Depot, so that pests don't have an easy path into your home anymore.

Next, find out the five telltale signs that you have mice, and for the garden, consider these natural pest control methods.

Whether you're moving house or simply rearranging your space, there is one extremely cumbersome item that is tricky to shift by yourself – your mattress.

While it's not recommended to tackle maneuvering your mattress alone, given its weight and size, sometimes it's unavoidable. But, with a heightened risk of injury, it's important to take precautions to protect your health, and the integrity of your mattress.

I spoke to removal experts and professional movers for their top tips for moving your mattress alone.

How to move a mattress by yourself

1. Plan your route

Before you start, you need to measure your mattress and check it will fit through your doorways and corridors.

Andre Kazimierski, CEO of Improovy says, 'Mattresses can be unexpectedly heavy, and they're also super unwieldy. So, it's important to figure out your route ahead of time, including measuring doorways to make sure the mattress will successfully fit.'

Use a strong measuring tape, such as the Hyper Tough 25-Foot Tape Measure available at Walmart, which features a durable blade lock for accurate measuring. If you're unsure how to read a tape measure, we have a dedicated guide.

2. Check if your mattress is foldable

Before you begin trying to move it, check whether your mattress is foldable, especially if you live in a rented property where damaging the walls could cost you some or all of your security deposit.

Usually, mattresses with inner springs cannot be folded, however, it is worth checking with the brand to help you avoid injury.

Matt Graber, co-owner of Cool Hand Movers in New York City says, 'Even if it doesn’t appear to have springs or hard structural material inside, double-check on the manufacturer's website. If you can fold it, as is the case with a lot of foam mattresses, it will be much easier to handle, especially on staircases or in tight hallways,' Graber adds.

3. Prepare your mattress

Whether folded or flat, it's time to prepare your mattress for moving. Ashlyn Cook, community outreach manager at UniMovers says, 'Cover the mattress with a protective cover to keep it clean and prevent damage during the move. You can find mattress covers at furniture stores or online retailers.'

We recommend the Nordic Elk Mattress Bags for Moving and Storage, available at Amazon, as they're made of a strong, thick tarp material with handles for grip, and zips for ease of use.

If using a bag or wrap, Nick Valentino, vice president of market operations of Bellhop adds, 'If the mattress has handles; make sure those stay accessible.' This will make the moving process itself a lot easier.

While we recommend using a specified mattress wrap or bag, if you're in a pinch, use two fitted bed sheets, one on each side so they overlap, or a duvet case to slip your mattress into and button or zip up for protection from grime during the move.

This will protect any dust, dirt or debris from gathering on your mattress, which might leave you needing to steam clean it. If you're just moving the mattress to clean it, you can skip this step.

4. Clear a path

With the mattress wrapped and ready, clear your pathway before the heavy lifting begins.

Nick Valentino, moving expert, says, 'Wherever you're planning to move your mattress to, make sure there are no obstacles in the way. Furniture, rugs, and runners can all become problematic here,' especially if you have a small bedroom.

Moving these might seem like extra effort, but anything that mitigates the risk of falls or trips is worth it in the end.

5. Attach straps

Attaching straps is the best way to avoid injury when moving a mattress alone. They can also help to cut house moving costs by saving on calling the pros.

Ashlyn Cook of Unimovers suggests, 'Place them under the mattress and loop them around your shoulders or forearms.'

These Mattress Packing Straps for Moving or Storage available at Amazon come highly rated by shoppers, and they can be used for both rolling and carrying your mattress.

6. Use a dolly

If you have access to one, using a dolly is a great way to move heavy furniture by yourself.

Getting a firm grip on the straps, Carl Fanaro, CEO at NOLA Buys Houses recommends, 'lifting with your legs, not your back. I learned this lesson the hard way after getting a lower back injury.'

Place the mattress on the dolly and secure it tightly with the straps, ensuring that it does not shift or move when you push the dolly. The last thing you want is for the mattress to fall off, or on top of you, during the moving process.

'If you don't have access to a dolly, slide the mattress along the floor as much as possible,' advises Nick Valentino, expert mover. Alternatively, Ashlyn Cook of UniMovers says, 'You can also rent a dolly from stores such as Home Depot for as little as $14 for four hours,' says Cook.

If you need to take your mattress downstairs, you can try sliding it but it's better, and safer, to hire a handyman.

How to avoid injury

When moving a mattress on your own, staying safe should be your top priority urges Ashlyn Cook of UniMovers. She says, 'Never rush. Take your time when moving the mattress to avoid dangerous accidents. You should also wear shoes with good grip and support can prevent slips and falls.'

Liz Hutz, CEO at LizBuysHouses adds, 'Getting your mattress onto the removals vehicle is the tricky part. If you have a ramp, use it to roll the dolly right into the truck. If not, remember to lift with your knees, not your back, and don’t be afraid to ask a neighbor for help to avoid injury.

'Moving is a leading cause of back injuries and one wrong moment can lead to months of physical therapy.'

If calling on a friend, colleague or family member isn't possible when moving your mattress, remember to take your time, plan your route, clear the path and make use of covers with handles, a dolly, or straps to complete the job without hurting yourself. Taking breaks is fine too and will very likely be needed.

After you're done moving, if you spot some dirt or marks on your mattress, you can clean your mattress in a few simple steps.

A patio is more than a functional way to get outside, it's a gathering space for spending time with family and friends. A feature like the perfect grill can transform it into an outdoor kitchen and living room, making it all the better for entertaining. Brie Larson has the formula down.

The actress took to Instagram to share pictures of her annual hot dog festival. Aside from the large , slate stones of her patio, the best grill makes Larson's design. Larson uses the Longhorn Combo 3-Burner Charcoal and Gas by Oklahoma Joe's. The long black grill sits stylishly against her house, echoing the black outdoor lights she's installed along her house. It's a gorgeous contrast to the deep gray siding and white accents of her doors. The shape is unobstrusive, acting more like a decor piece than a cooking appliance.

However, the grill's benefits go far beyond its aesthetics. It's the ideal choice for avid grillmasters. First of all, with the Longhorn Combo, you don't need to choose between a charcoal vs. gas grill. It does it all. The left compartment is a charcoal grill that includesa high-quality temperature gauge, an exhaust damper and a fire grate. On the right, a gas grill chamber features three separate burners each with 12,000 BTUs. In the Instagram post, Brie is using the right chamber, perfect for quick and easy grilling on a casual hot dog night.

With Larson's grill, you also never need to choose between a smoker vs a gas grill. The leftmost, lower chamber of the grill has a smoker with adjustable dampers to regulate heat and smoke with complete control. If all of this wasn't enough, there is a smaller side burner, making it easy to use a pot or pan to heat accouterments on the side. Chili dog lovers, we're talking to you.

The grill makes combining all aspects of outdoor cooking easy on one simple appliance. Functional features like cool touch handles make it ultra-safe, while a bottom shelf provides room for cooking utensils. 750-square-inches of primary cooking space and 310-square-inches of secondary cooking space make cooking all your favorites oh-so-simple. Just this grill is the ultimate outdoor kitchen layout

Adding an outdoor kitchen to your patio is the perfect way to upgrade your home. Take the space to the next level by adding stylish dining chairs and a dining table. This innovative step can make your home feel larger, by providing an entirely new space to entertain and spend time.

With a combination grill, a full barbeque like Brie Larson's is never too far away.

With winter approaching, dark nights are drawing in. You may be finding that the lighting in your yard isn't working for your driveway. We'll soon be getting home in the dark, so it helps to have bright lights to see your way home.

However, it can be hard to nail the lighting on your driveway. Atmospheric lighting looks great, but can be too dim to use, while practical lighting can be stark and bare.

This is all you need to know about good driveway lighting, from the lights that suit different spaces, to the color and brightness you need.

1. Use path lights

The most common way to light a driveway is to use path lights. Path lights are perfect for driveways because you can line them next to the drive for neat, practical lighting.

This has two main benefits. The first is that it makes parking the car a little easier because you can see exactly where you're putting it. It also means you can see when you're going when you walk from the car to the front door.

If you live in the country, path lights are a great way to mark the entrance of your drive. It can be tricky to find the turning-off point on dark nights, and even once you're used to it, guests, mail carriers, and delivery drivers might not be able to find the entrance. Two path lights out the front of your drive are a simple way to mark the entrance in the night.

2. Try drive-over in-ground lights

In-ground lights are an ingenious way to light a driveway. Unsurprisingly, they sit in the ground, either completely flush or a 1/2 inch out of the soil or paving.

Unlike path lights, these lights, also known as well lights, don't pose any obstacle. It's easy to clip path lights when you park, damaging the light and scratching your car. If you have in-ground lights in a driveway, this isn't a problem - you can drive right over them with no issue. They provide similar visibility to path lights but there's no risk of driving into them.

There are lots of options out there, especially solar inground lights. There are even inground light bricks which are incredibly easy to install. If your driveway is paved with bricks, just swap a brick out for a light.

However, bear in mind that in-ground lights are vulnerable to water damage. Path lights are above ground, so the only water damage they're likely to receive is from rain. In-ground lights are not only rained on but also must withstand water in the ground, so they can also be damaged by a rising water table or a flood.

In-ground lights are also harder to incorporate into your home's style. Unlike path lights, which come in many different styles, path lights are really just bare bulbs, so they can't complement your landscaping.

3. Stick to your security lights

The most cost-effective way to light a driveway is to use a large, bright security light. Unlike buying several sets of path lights or in-ground lights, you only need a single security light to light up your driveway. This can save you hundreds - if not thousands - of dollars. As long as you mount your security lights high above the driveway where they cast the most light and can't be tampered with, you have a simple solution to your driveway lighting.

Security lights are also motion-detection, which means that you don't need to worry about setting timers as you might with path lights or in-ground lights. The lights will turn on when you pull into the drive, automating the whole process. Premium security lights have dusk-to-dawn sensors which turn the lights on in dim mode at sunset too, so the drive always has some illumination.

However, there are a couple of issues with this method. These lights can look very stark and bright, so while they're excellent for security, they're less good for style. A security light can make your driveway look like a parking lot rather than a cozy pathway home.

Security lights also only offer a single source of light. Parking under a badly-placed security light can be tricky because the light shines in your eyes, and because they're so bright, they create high-contrast shadows that can be hard to see into, which might hide obstacles for your car.

Because they use motion detectors, security lights also won't help you find the driveway or park. While some models have dawn-to-dusk sensors, the dim mode can be very dim and offer little illumination.

4. Install exterior wall lights

Bright wall lights can be an excellent way to light a driveway. Unlike path lights, which you might drive into, or inground lights, which have a great risk of water damage, wall lights are out of the way and sheltered from rain because they sit under eaves.

With bright enough wall lights, you can light up most of the drive, making it easy to see what you're doing without compromising on style.

However, the issue with wall lights is that this method won't work if you have a long driveway. If you live in a suburban development, this method will work well, but more rural homes with large driveways will find that this doesn't provide enough light.

5. Spacing and placing

It can be tricky to figure out how to space your lights, but there are two tricks to bear in mind.

The first is obvious - your lights should be spaced so that the light from one light reaches the next, providing even coverage across the drive. This can vary depending on brightness, so see how far the beam from a single light reaches and use that as a guide for the next light.

The other tip for path lights is to use the height of the light as a guide. Head of Gardens Rachel Bull says 'If your light is 18" tall, for example, use that to work out where to place your lights. Your path lights should be the height of the light away from whatever you're lighting, so an 18" tall light should be 18" back from the driveway, and 18" from the next light. It's not a surefire method, but it's often a good rough guide.'

6. Keep the color warm

Your lights should be around 2500-3000K. K or kelvin, is a measure of color temperature. The lower the kelvin, the more like candlelight, the higher the Kelvin, the more like daylight. For example, office fluorescents are usually between 4500-6000K.

While the point of driveway lights is to brightly illuminate your drive to help you park, you don't want it to be too stark. A color temperature between 2500-3000K is perfect for driveway lighting. It's a warm white color that offers practical illumination but is also welcoming and cozy.

7. Ensure your lights are bright

Lumens are a measure of brightness, and you should always check this measure when buying lights. Many path lights and inground lights don't create proper lighting, because they're only around 10 lumens. This is especially true of solar lighting.

Your light fixtures should glow at at least 100 lumens to ensure practical lighting. 100 lumens is the lowest acceptable number - for bright lights, you need between 200-300 lumens.

Driveway lighting FAQs

Should I use solar or wired lights for driveway lighting?

It's best to use wired lights for your driveway. Solar lights can be a great way to save money, but they can be susceptible to water damage, and it can be hard to replace their bulbs if anything goes wrong.

Much of the advice for lighting a driveway also applies to lighting a garden path. You need bright, but gentle light that's practical without being stark or overwhelming.

Bathroom ventilation underpins the health of this space. Without good ventilation, you may encounter mold, mildew and deterioration of not just your decor, for instance peeling wallpaper, but the structure of the room and beyond, including walls, roofing and floors.

We spoke to ventilation, remodeling and construction experts for eight ways to improve ventilation in your bathroom, with tips for a new bathroom build, existing adaptations, and additional add-ons.

Improving ventilation in your home, especially in rooms prone to damp such as a bathroom, helps ensure the structural integrity of your space as well as the health of all who live there. Our expert-led guide dives in, bringing advice ranging from smaller ventilation improvement hacks to more costly but vital works.

8 ways the pros improve bathroom ventilation

1. Use an air circulator

I had never heard of an air circulator before talking with Jessica Lauren, construction contractor and real-estate investor at Fire Damaged House Aid. This item looks a bit like a fan but helps to remove excess moisture from the air in your bathroom, preventing mold.

'I currently use a plastic Vornado Air Circulator in one bathroom in my house after showers during the winter,' says Lauren. 'It’s a quick way to remove the moisture or excess heat from the bathroom, and send it throughout the house during colder months.'

Switching on an air circulator is a simple addition you could add to your post-shower routine to make cleaning quick and easy in the bathroom in terms of preventing mold, too.

The cost of air circulators can vary depending on the size and energy efficiency rating of the model. However, on average, most will fall between $40 and $200.

2. Add a window or skylight

If your bathroom has no windows, damaged windows or a very small one, this may be the main culprit of your ventilation problem. There's no easier way to let fresh air flow through your bathroom than to crack open a window or two. But to do this effectively a homeowner must know when to repair a window and when it is time to replace it, as well as if more windows are required in their space.

Tony Virgilio of VENTS-US, says, 'If you’re up for a bit of a project, adding a window or skylight can work wonders to improve natural ventilation in your bathroom. They're great at pushing out humidity, too. It might be a bigger investment, but the fresh air is worth it. Just keep that window clean and make sure it opens smoothly.'

This includes taking a moment to wipe condensation off of your window that will gather after enjoying a warm bath or shower. 'In cold weather, opening a window means instant condensation on the window and around the frame,' says Lauren. If left unattended, it can also cause mold.

Prices will largely vary depending on window sizes, materials (such as the quality of the glass), and the difficulty of the installation, but you will be looking at spending a minimum of $700 to add this to your bathroom.

3. Install extractor fans

Bathroom extractor fans (also known as exhaust fans) extract air from your bathroom and expel it outside. This leaves room for fresh air to make its way into the space.

'Some houses have circulation vents, not extracting fans,' says Lauren. 'Replacing these vents with fans helps to reduce moisture, but you’ll need to make sure these are vented to the OUTSIDE of the house.'

Virgilio adds, 'An exhaust fan is your best friend when it comes to battling moisture. It pulls steam and humidity out of the air, keeping your bathroom dry and mold-free. Pick a fan that suits your bathroom size, and make sure it’s vented outside, not into your attic. And don't forget to clean the fan’s filter regularly!'

Failing to clean your bathroom fans not only impacts the effectiveness of your ventilation, but it could also become a fire hazard. Ask a professional to install this into your bathroom to ensure it is done safely.

Virgilio recommends the Vents 125 LD Axial Extract Fan for homeowners who love a modern aesthetic but are searching for something at a more affordable price point. Although there are plenty of different models out there, typically falling under $300.

• Shop bathroom extractor fans at Lowe's
• Shop bathroom extractor fans at Amazon
• Shop bathroom extractor fans at The Home Depot

4. Keep a stand-alone fan in there

This isn't likely to solve all of your bathroom ventilation problems but it's a good start. You likely have a tabletop fan in your home pop it in the bathroom after your shower or bath.

'The least expensive way to improve ventilation is to use a stand-alone fan,' says Lauren. 'I owned a vintage 1930's home with beautiful bathroom tile, so I didn’t want to undertake any renovations that could damage the room. Instead, I bought a Vornado Air Circulator in a retro model.'

The VFAN Vintage Air Circulator is a gorgeous genuine re-issue of a past product, coming in white or green with gold accents. You definitely won't have to worry about leaving this out on display in the bathroom because it'll have people talking for only good reason.

5. Use a dehumidifier

Another easy addition to assist the ventilation in your bathroom is introducing one of the best dehumidifiers to the space. Though, it's important to bear in mind that it can't work wonders on its own.

Jessie Fadayel of Badeloft USA, a luxury bathroom company, says, 'These devices make fantastic ventilation solutions if your bathroom is small, dissipating moisture in a given room. But they are not designed for larger spaces, and if you have a medium bathroom, they should be combined with other forms of ventilation. Using a dehumidifier as your sole source of ventilation can be troublesome as it won’t dissipate moisture fast enough.'

According to a study on how much it costs to run a dehumidifier, running a standard model for costs seven cents an hour. Of course, if you're using a super powerful one or running it constantly on its highest setting, this cost will increase.

Investing in a reliable dehumidifier will cost between $50 and $150 depending on the size and brand.

'Remember to empty the water tank and clean the filter regularly to keep it running smoothly,' adds Virgilio.

Learn about the pros, cons and differences between air purifiers vs dehumidifiers.

6. Upgrade your extractor fan

There are many extractor fans out there that are likely far better than the standard model that came with your home. If this old fan is acting a bit worse for wear and you have a couple hundred dollars to spend on the job, why not consider investing in an upgrade?

'If your current fan isn’t cutting it, consider upgrading to a high-CFM (cubic feet per minute) model,' says Virgilio. 'These fans move more air, which means better ventilation and less chance of mold. Regular maintenance such as clearing the fan free of dust will keep it working like a charm.'

The Vents OV1 200 Axial Fan is currently on sale and its casing can be removed for easy cleaning. If you're wondering how often you should clean and replace a bathroom extractor fan, read up on our handy guide.

7. Remove clutter from your bathroom

Items squished together with little room for air to circulate between is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria and mold.

If you're yet to work your way through your bathroom decluttering checklist, it may be time to dive in. Figuring out what is truly necessary in your bathroom an removing the rest will help with ventilation by carving out more space where air can flow.

8. Add more doors

'Like the window, having large or multiple doors in your bathroom provides a natural means of ventilating the space,' says Fadayel. 'The essential aspect is to introduce air and dissipate moisture in the space, so if you can afford it in your layout, ensure your bathroom has multiple entryways for ventilation and safety.'

Combine some of these tips and tricks together and your bathroom shall become a well-ventilated haven for relaxation.

What to shop

Now you know how to properly ventilate your bathroom, why not try to ventilate your attic? It's an often neglected space, prone to bad smells and damp, so it would definitely benefit from the extra attention.

There's nothing like a fire pit. Every yard benefits from somewhere stylish and safe to hold a bonfire. As we head into fall, a fire pit offers a warm and rustic setting where you can enjoy your outdoor space even as colder nights draw in.

However, even the best fire pits will rust over time, turning a sleek feature of your yard design into a hunk of ugly brown metal. Not only is it unattractive, but it feels like a waste of money - as fire pits can be pretty expensive.

Thankfully, with a little sandpaper and paint, you can get your fire pit back to looking its best. I spoke to fire pit experts about how to fix this common problem.

1. Clean the fire pit

The first step is to clean your fire pit. Brushing it clean of spider webs, ashes, and dirt gives you a clean base for your restoration project. Fire pit maker Steve Schoettle says: 'The first step is to make sure you’ve got any debris out. If you’ve just had a fire, make sure you place any ash in an ash bucket with a lid.'

After you've removed the ash, you need to clean the surfaces. Fire pit expert Metturan Ketheswaran says: 'If soot or grime has really been building up, a warm water and mild dish soap combination will do wonders.'

Once clean, you need protective eyewear and gloves. That's because you now need to remove any large rust flakes. You can pick these off with your hands, but you should wear thick gloves to protect your fingers.

Then, Metturan says you need to use a wire brush all over the pit in the final prep stage. 'Scrub the surface with a wire brush to really dislodge whatever remaining residue there is, then give it a good hose down.' Let the pit dry and then you're ready for your rust remover.

2. Use a rust remover

Now that your fire pit is ready, you can apply a rust remover. Steve recommends Naval Jelly, available at Amazon, but there are lots of other options around.

In fact, there's a couple of natural options, though they aren't as effective. Metturan Ketheswaran says: 'Vinegar is one of those everyday pantry staples that can resurrect your fire pit. Dip the rusting parts in white vinegar or dip a cloth in vinegar and wrap it around the rusting parts. Let it be for several hours, even overnight. The acetic acid within the vinegar degrades the rust.'

He also suggests baking soda, adding: 'A little baking soda can make a lot of difference to your fire pit's pristine condition. Mix baking soda with water to make a paste and smear it on the rusted places.'

However, both experts I spoke to say that these methods, while ultimately effective, take much longer than a chemical rust remover. Steve Schoettle warns that vinegar and baking soda 'are not going to be aggressive enough for a steel fire pit' and 'it’s going to be a very slow process'.

Whichever remover you choose, the process is the same. Metturan Ketheswaran says: 'Apply your rust remover according to the directions on the packaging, generally spraying or brushing the product onto the affected areas.'

Let it sit for a few hours, then scrub it off with a wire brush and water. This will remove the worst of the rust, but we're only halfway done.

3. Sand it down

The fire pit will still have some rough patches of rust and paint, so you need to remove them with sandpaper. This not only gets rid of the rust, but makes an abrasive surface on the metal for paint to cling to.

Steve Schoettle says: 'Make sure you’re using the right grit - I recommend 40 or 60 grit sandpaper. If you’re doing it manually, look for sandpaper attached to a sponge so you avoid scraping your knuckles.' You can also use an orbital sander to save a little time.

It takes a little effort, but the process is very simple. Keep sanding until all the old paint and rust are removed. After that, Metturan Ketheswaran says to 'wipe the surface clean with a damp cloth before proceeding to painting'.

4. Paint it

Finally, we have the fun part - painting. The key thing here is to use high-heat paint. High-heat paint is designed to stand up to extreme temperatures, so it's perfect for a fire pit. Steve recommends Rustoleum spray paint, available at Walmart, but there are plenty of other brands on offer at Lowe's, for example.

As well as paint, Metturan Ketheswaran recommends a rust-inhibiting primer, such as this Rustoleum rusty metal primer at Home Depot. This primer creates a layer of zinc phosphate over the surface of your fire pit, stopping oxygen and water from reaching the pit and causing it to rust. Spray or paint on the primer first and then let it dry.

After that, you need to paint your pit. Metturan Ketheswaran says: 'Spray or brush in thin, even coats, allowing each coat an appropriate time to dry completely before the next coat is applied. Generally, 2-3 coats provide an extremely durable finish. The paint always needs to be fully cured before use of the fire pit is resumed.'

The only thing to bear in mind is food safety. If you're going to cook food in your fire pit, don't paint the inside of the fire pit. There's a risk that toxins could get into your s'mores if you cook them over a painted pit. Instead, Steve Schoettle says: 'If you are going to cook on your fire pit you only want to paint the exterior and the lip of the firepit. Use vegetable oil in the fire pit bowl.'

Fire pit rust FAQs

Which type of fire pits don't rust?

For a fire pit that doesn't rust, you need a stone or concrete pit. You can also buy copper fire pits, but while these don't rust, they oxidize into a blue color.

Some fire pits are made of corten steel and designed to oxidize over time. Metturan told me that, with these fire pits, you can control the oxidation and keep them clean by following all the steps above - just don't use rust remover or paint them.

With the Color of the Year season in full swing, the latest paint brand to announce its standout hue for 2025 is Behr, revealing Rumors, a rich and warming ruby red.

While so far, we've seen blue gain momentum across paint brands' Color of the Year announcements, this Behr paint color marks an exciting and fresh color trend to embrace in 2025, perfect for adding warmth and cozy appeal to our homes.

In addition to its warming qualities, Rumors has a timeless look and feel, adding year-long sophistication that doesn't come across as overly trend-driven.

Behr's Color of the Year 2025: Rumors

While decorating with red is often reserved for bold decorating styles like maximalist decorating ideas, Rumors works as a stylish paint color for many design styles, since it's not too vibrant and instead rich and tranquil.

Realizing homeowners' appeal for decorating with red, Behr conducted new research that revealed over three-quarters of Americans said they would consider decorating a room or wall with red paint. Specifically, bedrooms, front doors, and accent walls ranked as some of the most desired places to embrace this warm hue across home decorating.

'We're seeing people embrace color like never before,' says Erika Woelfel, Vice President of Color and Creative Services at Behr Paint Company. 'Rumors is a modern take on the timeless red that creates an energetic appeal to make a lasting statement in a stunning way.'

The new research also highlighted the psychological benefits of decorating with red, with the majority of respondents saying the use of the color red in home decor makes them feel energized.

This color trend goes hand in hand with one of this year's most popular interior design trends: the unexpected red theory. This trend, where red is used in small doses to uplift rooms with design interest, is showing no signs of stopping for 2025, and paint colors like Rumors provide a way of tapping into this decor idea in a timeless way. For example, add an accent wall to a neutral room for a more interesting look, or paint furniture with this rich red hue to create an unexpected color moment.

'Our Color of the Year empowers consumers to use color with confidence,' says Andy Lopez, Senior Vice President and Head of Marketing at Behr Paint. 'Rumors is undoubtedly a color that inspires creativity while being versatile enough to transform a space through large and small projects.'

Behr's 2025 Color Trend Palette

In addition to Rumors, Behr has also revealed its 2025 Color Trends Palette, a selection of 16 paint colors that reflect prominent trends within the design world. The palette includes both warm and cool hues; light and dark.

Boreal, a gray-green paint is used above in this relaxing bedroom, and there are many other earthy hues to consider for the year ahead, including Amazon Jungle, a deep olive green, and Aerial View, a sky blue.

If you prefer decorating with neutrals, there are plenty of light and airy shades, such as Blank Canvas, a warm white paint; Nutmeg Frost, a light peachy tan; and Even Better Beige, a versatile light beige paint.

Intrigued to find out more about this sophisticated paint color? Head to Behr to learn more about its 2025 Color of the Year. Additionally, you can shop for Rumors exclusively at The Home Depot stores nationwide and on The Home Depot's website.

No one wants to discover a bed bug infestation in their home. When these tiny, resilient pests invade your space they cause all kinds of chaos and discomfort. Plus, they have an uncanny ability to hide in the smallest of cracks and crevices, making them incredibly difficult to eliminate with just one method.

While there are numerous DIY solutions out there, not all are created equal. Some treatments might provide temporary relief, but true eradication requires a multi-pronged approach and, in some cases, professional intervention.

Pest control experts agree that to successfully wipe out these home invaders, you should employ a mix of the five best methods to get rid of bed bugs. Below, they share the knowledge and tools you need to tackle even the most stubborn infestations head-on.

Best methods to eradicate bed bugs

Peter Rania, President & CEO of Waltham Pest Control Co., advises, 'The key to eradicating bed bugs is thorough preparation and treatment. Clear out clutter, vacuum regularly, seal entry points, and encase your mattresses. Be sure to treat the problem room and surrounding areas, including cracks and crevices in walls and furniture. Don’t forget to remove outlet covers and treat the voids behind them.'

He adds, 'However, be warned. No single method is foolproof, so diligent monitoring for several weeks after treatment is crucial. You may need additional spot treatments to fully eliminate the infestation, but with persistence, you can conquer bed bugs!'

1. Bed bug interceptors

If you want to prevent bed bugs from being a nuisance in your home, it's crucial to spot them as early as possible. You should inspect used furniture and entry points regularly and take action fast if you see signs like blood spots, molted bed bug skins, or the bugs themselves, they're round, flat and often brown. The sooner you can treat the area, the easier elimination will be.

Bed bug interceptors such as Bed Bug Blocker Pro from Amazon are an essential tool in your fight against bed bugs. These small, circular traps are placed under the legs of your bed and furniture to catch bed bugs as they attempt to climb up or down.

Kevin Carrillo, MMPC, Pest Control Specialist, explains, 'Slide four interceptors or empty plastic containers beneath the four legs of your bed (or another piece of infested furniture). Then, pour a little bit of cooking oil into each dish. Keep an eye on these containers and see if they catch or intercept any bed bugs.'

Using bed bug interceptors helps you get a clear sense of how severe the infestation is and whether further treatment steps are necessary.

2. Heat treatments

Heat treatments are one of the most effective methods to eradicate bed bugs, as these tiny but pesky pests cannot survive at high temperatures. By raising the temperature in an infested area to around 120–140°Fahrenheit, you can kill both bed bugs and their eggs.

'As an expert in bed bug removal for over 40 years, I've found that heat treatment is extremely effective,' says Peter Rania from Waltham Pest Control Co. Inc. 'We use the Thermal Pest Eradicator, which reaches temperatures lethal to bed bugs, even the ones hiding in cracks and crevices.'

HVAC expert Al Fouz agrees, 'I've helped many clients eliminate bed bug infestations through professional heat treatments. We use industrial heaters that raise ambient temperatures to at least 140° F, the lethal level for all bed bug life stages. But the key is treating the entire area, especially cracks and crevices where they hide.'

Achieving and maintaining the required temperature throughout the space can be difficult and risky to attempt on your own. While professional exterminators like Peter and Al use specialized equipment to safely raise room temperatures, everyday heaters won’t quite cut it and pose potential fire hazards.

This method is best left to professionals who have the proper equipment and expertise to ensure the job is done thoroughly and safely. However, if you want to tackle the problem at home, you could try turning up the heat with a commercial steamer (see below).

3. Steam cleaning

Steam cleaning a mattress is an effective and chemical-free way to kill bed bugs and their eggs on contact. The high temperatures produced by a steam cleaner can penetrate deep into mattresses, bed frames, and other furniture, reaching bed bugs hiding in seams, cracks, and crevices.

When using a steam cleaner, it's important to use the right equipment – preferably one that can reach temperatures of at least 200°F. These can be purchased online or rented from your local big box store (such as Lowes or Home Depot).

Make sure you move the steam cleaner slowly across the surface of infested upholstery to ensure the heat penetrates thoroughly (take around 20 seconds to cover one square foot of space).

But be cautious when using steam on delicate materials such as memory foam mattresses, as the high temperature can cause warping and damage.

4. Cold treatment

Like heat treatments, cold treatment is an effective way to kill bed bugs by exposing them to freezing temperatures. By placing infested items in a freezer below 0°F (-18°C) for several days, you can eliminate both bed bugs and their eggs. This method works well for small items like bedding, clothing, or shoes that can safely be frozen.

Kevin Carrillo, Pest Control Specialist at MMPC, advises, 'Slide affected items into sealed plastic bags and stick them in the freezer. Cold temperatures won't kill bed bugs right away, so keep your bags frozen for at least three days, to be safe.'

Afterward, inspect the items carefully to ensure all bed bugs are gone. For extra safety, wash and dry fabrics on high heat before using them again. 'Stick any dirty and infested linens and clothes in your washer at 140°F. Then, transfer the washed items to your tumble dryer for a 20-minute cycle on a really high heat. Use as many loads as necessary – this will kill any bed bugs and eggs in your clothes, blankets, and sheets.'

Be mindful that not all items can handle freezing temperatures, and of course, this method obviously isn’t doable for large furniture or entire rooms. For more extensive infestations, it’s best to consult a professional exterminator who can offer alternative solutions.

4. Diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth is a natural pest control method often used to eradicate bed bugs. This non-toxic powder, made from fossilized algae, is deadly to bed bugs. When they come into contact with diatomaceous earth, it damages their exoskeletons, causing them to dehydrate and die.

This method is popular because it’s safe to use around pets and children, and it can be applied in hard-to-reach areas where bed bugs tend to hide. Kevin Carrillo from MMPC advises, 'Focus on the spots that bed bugs frequent the most, like around bed frames and inside wall crevices. Just keep in mind that diatomaceous earth isn’t an instant remedy – you’ll need to wait up to two weeks before seeing any results.'

It's fine powder also shouldn't be inhaled so be cautious when laying it down, and sleep elsewhere whilst it's at work in the infested room.

Eliana Coca, Founder of E.C. House Cleaning also swears by this method of eradicating bed bugs, adding, 'For residential clients, I like to combine diatomaceous earth with organic essential oils like lavender, citronella, and eucalyptus (which naturally repel bed bugs). We place it in crevices and the perimeter of rooms to create an effective barrier. CimeXa Dust Insecticide from Amazon also works well and can last up to 10 years if undisturbed.'

Whn using diatomaceous earth, always make sure you are wearing a mask to avoid inhaling any particles.

5. Chemical treatments

Chemical treatments should be your last line of defense against bed bugs, given the health risks posed by pesticides and the fact that some bed bugs have developed resistance to these chemicals. However, when facing a severe infestation, chemical treatments may be unavoidable.

If you decide to go this route, choose a product specifically designed for bed bugs, such as those containing pyrethroids or neonicotinoids, and be meticulous in following the instructions. Ensure that the treated areas dry completely and that the space is well-ventilated during and after application.

Safety is paramount – wear protective gear, and keep pets and children out of the area until it’s safe to return. If you find that the infestation lingers despite treatment, it could be due to pesticide resistance. In such cases, it’s wise to consult a professional exterminator, who can apply treatments safely and suggest alternative solutions to finally rid your home of these stubborn pests.

FAQs

Can you vacuum bed bugs?

Yes, vacuuming should be your first line of defense against bed bugs. Pest Control Specialist, Kevin Carrillo, explains, 'Start by vacuuming your mattress, bed frame, box spring, and carpet. Clean your vacuum bag out. Then, get a thin hose attachment and vacuum everything. Go over each section of your mattress two to three times, along with the sides and base of your bed frame. Finish things off by vacuuming the floor and going over carpeted areas two to three times as well. This removes any adults that are hanging out around your bed.'

Can rubbing alcohol eradicate bed bugs?

Rubbing alcohol can kill bed bugs on contact by dissolving their outer shell and causing them to dehydrate. However, it's not a reliable method for eradicating an entire infestation. Rubbing alcohol only kills bed bugs that it directly touches, so it’s easy to miss hidden bugs and eggs.

Do essential oils kill bed bugs?

While this method has gained popularity as a natural pest remedy, expert warn against using essential oils to kill bed bugs as these oils are not effective at eradicating an infestation. Essential oils can't penetrate the tough protective shells of bed bug eggs, nor can they reach the deep, hidden crevices where these pests like to hide. Although they are good at repelling these critters, you should combine essential oils with diatomaceous earth for the best results.

Does baking soda kill bed bugs?

Using baking soda to kill bed bugs is often hailed as a good natural remedy, but unfortunately, it falls short as a solution. While some believe that baking soda can dehydrate and kill bed bugs by absorbing moisture or cutting into their exoskeletons, there’s no scientific evidence to back this up.

Can you suffocate bed bugs?

Yes, you can suffocate bed bugs, but this method alone may not be sufficient enough to eradicate a bed bug infestation. Kevin Carrillo explains how to use this technique, 'Suffocate the bed bugs with mattress covers and box spring covers. Simply slide your infested mattress and box spring into large, sturdy covers designed for bed bugs and/or dust mites and seal these covers up tightly, inspecting them occasionally for tears.' You can purchase mattress protectors designed for bed bugs online, such as this SafeRest queen-sized protector from Amazon.

Meet the experts

Bed bugs aren't the only common household pests that can cause you to itch. If you can't see any signs of bed bugs in your home, you may be experiencing the signs of a flea infestation instead, which usually hitch a ride into your home on furry pets.

Too much frost in our freezers is a pain, making it more difficult to grab what's inside while depriving us of precious space inside. For a long time I've wondered why it happens and whether it's avoidable or not.

I caught up with mechanics and appliance experts to find out why freezers frost up, how to fix it and stop it returning.

Defrosting your freezer is a much needed step if you've decided to organize your freezer.

Why is my freezer frosting up?

Essentially, a lack of temperature regulation combined with an excess of moisture.

'Frost forms when warm, moist air comes into contact with the cold evaporator coils inside your freezer,' explains Andy Shu, appliance repair pro from ZapFixers. This can be caused by changes in temperature thanks to how we use, maintain and store items inside.

Read on to pin down what exactly the issue is with yours.

1. Temperature fluctuations

One of the most likely causes of a freezer frosting over comes from too many fluctuations in the temperature. A freezer needs a consistently regulated temperature of around 0°F (-18°C) for proper food safety and moisture control.

This can happen as a result of opening the door too often or leaving it open for too long, which is one of the worst things you can do to your freezer. 'I’ve seen this more times than I can count,' shares Andy. 'Families that love to snack are constantly opening and closing the freezer door. Every time the door is opened, warm air rushes in, which then freezes and turns into frost.'

Ian Palmer-Smith, appliance repair expert at Domestic & General, elaborates says ice build up often happens when the freezer door is left open for longer than necessary. 'As a general rule,' he says, 'never keep the freezer door open for more than a couple of minutes as it doesn’t take long before the temperature change can take effect.'

But it isn't exclusively caused by us opening the doors, as review expert Arlo Harris adds, 'Many cheaper models lack precise temperature controls or efficient compressors, causing the unit to frequently cycle on and off. Look for a freezer with an Energy Star rating and digital controls for the best efficiency.'

If you're considering upgrading your freezer (or fridge/freezer), we've found that Lowe's and Home Depot have the biggest selections. Learn how to choose energy-efficient appliances.

2. Blocked airflow

In a similar vein, if the air vents are blocked and the temperature can't properly flow throughout the whole freezer, it can lead to over-frosting.

'Sometimes, in an effort to fit just one more item into the freezer, you might accidentally block the air vents. This disrupts the airflow and leads to frost accumulation,' Andy explains.

Make sure you're not over-filling the space. If you need to, you can always invest in extra space in the form a mini freezer. The Arctic King 1.1 Cu. ft. Upright Freezer from Walmart is an affordable choice that still offers a decent amount of space.

And as well as avoiding over-filling, make sure you never put hot or exposed food into your freezer. 'Another common culprit behind a frosty freezer is placing hot food into the appliance or storing food without sufficient covers,' Ian advises. 'This can introduce additional moisture into the air, causing a sudden shift in temperature, often resulting in frost build up.'

3. Loose seals

'One of the most common issues I’ve encountered in my years of fixing freezers is a worn-out door seal,' Andy explains. 'When the seal is damaged, it lets warm air sneak into the freezer, causing frost to build up.'

A tight seal ensures that the freezer's internal temperature is correctly regulated, and protects it from any external temperature changes.

Ryan Farley, appliance expert and CEO of LawnStarter, explains that it's the most common cause of over-frosting that he's come across. 'Over time, these seals do tend to kind of wear out, so you might notice more frost as your freezer gets up there in years,' he adds.

You can follow Arlo's steps to check whether your freezer's seal is still correctly intact. 'I recommend testing the seals regularly by closing the door on a $1 bill,' Arlo explains. If it slides out easily, it's time for replacement seals.'

Replacing the seals and gaskets of a freezer door isn't always the simplest task, so it might be one that's best left to a technician. In the mean time, keep your freezer's seal free of mold.

4. High humidity

There has to be an excess of moisture for freezers to be able to 'over' frost. It's the direct consequence of temperature fluctuations or a weak seal, as higher temperatures, humidity and hot or exposed food can bring more moisture into the space.

'When the freezer door is opened, warm, humid air rushes in. As it cools, the moisture condenses and freezes on the coils and walls,' explains construction and engineering expert Jimmy Hertilien. 'I always recommend keeping the freezer in an environment with consistent temperature and low humidity. An attic or garage are poor choices.'

You can delve into freezer storage hacks to avoid overpacking your appliance and allowing the cold air to properly circulate.

5. Malfunctioning defrost

'I've repaired many freezers where the defrost system failed. Whether it’s the defrost timer, heater, or thermostat, when these components stop working, frost starts piling up,' says Andy.

'I’ve also seen freezers set to extremely cold temperatures, which isn’t always better. This can cause excessive frost to build up over time.'

So, to keep your freezer free from frost, you'll need the temperature to remain consistent at around 0°F (as mentioned above). Learn about the items not to store in the freezer.

How to fix frost build-up in your freezer

To defrost a freezer, 'Unplug the freezer and let it fully defrost,' advises Jimmy. 'While defrosting, check the door seal and replace it if damaged. Once defrosted, wipe down the interior and restart while loading only a few items at a time, keeping the temperature around 0°F,' which is the correct temperature to set your freezer.

Bear in mind any food that's in there will begin to defrost too so place your goods in a secondary freezer if you have one, or if not, learn how to defrost your freezer without switching it off.

Then, to prevent it from happening in the future, make a mental note of all the frost-causing factors mentioned above. Maintain a consistent temperature, avoid over-filling, never put hot food or unpackaged food into the freezer, and try not to open the door too often or for too long. Regular cleaning helps too, as well as defrosting it once or twice a year.

Once your freezer is frost-free and at the right temperature, it might be a good idea to learn how to organize your freezer correctly.

There are few watering problems as annoying and frustrating as a hose stuck on a faucet. What used to be a simple task - unscrewing your hose - suddenly feels completely impossible.

Before you give up, know there are some simple solutions to this problem.

I spoke to a licensed building contractor about the best way to tackle this problem and fix your hose. He gave me some simple and cheap fixes that should easily free your faucet.

Why is my hose stuck on the faucet?

There are several reasons why your hose might be stuck on the faucet. Two of them are simple to understand. Sometimes a build-up of dirt and debris causes friction on the thread between the hose and makes it tough to turn.

The other is that you may have simply over-tightened the hose connector and need a little extra leverage to remove it from the faucet.

The other common reason is a little trickier, and it's to do with a chemical reaction. Licensed building contractor Yaeir Moinzadeh told me that 'When aluminum hose ends are used with brass spigots, the hose can get stuck. It is happening due to galvanic corrosion, in which metals which are not similar react and fuse together.'

This effect is worse if you live somewhere with high humidity, as this speeds up the reaction - it can even happen within a few months.

How do I unstick my hose from the faucet?

Thankfully, the methods for fixing this are the same the same no matter the problem. In the first instance, try to unstick the hose and faucet.

Yaeir says to 'apply oil like PB Blaster, available at Walmart, or WD-40, available at Amazon, and let them sit for a while. Then take two wrenches, and hold the faucet steady with one wrench and turn the hose with another.' It's best to use an extra-long wrench like this from Home Depot - sometimes the problem is as simple as a lack of proper leverage.

This method will usually work, but if not, you have some other options. One is to use a cheap torch like this from Amazon or a heat gun like this from Home Depot. Yaeir says that this 'will expand the metal and break the connections easily.'

Your final option is less subtle but very effective. Yaeir told me that you can use a hacksaw or an oscillating multitool to saw between the bolts and remove the hose without entirely removing the thread on the faucet.

How do you stop it from happening in the future?

Avoiding this problem in the future is pretty straightforward. Yaeir says all you need to do is to 'avoid using aluminum hose ends in the future. Instead, choose a brass or plastic one.'

If this isn't possible, he has some other tips. The most obvious is to disconnect your hose before winter, as this is when most corrosion occurs. He also told me that you can 'apply food-grade grease or Vaseline to the threads before attaching it to the hose.'

On top of that, 'wrapping the threads in Teflon tape, available at Amazon, will help in insulation and keeping it safe from galvanic corrosion. It will act as a barrier between dissimilar metals.'

FAQs

Does hard water make your hose get stuck?

Hard water can calcify and make your hose get stuck to the faucet, but it's an easier problem to fix than corrosion.

For more help with watering in your yard, take a look at our guides to watering mistakes, and our explainer of deep watering.

Whether you're shopping for home appliances and hardware or outdoor furniture and decor, you'll find everything you need for your next home improvement project at Home Depot.

As an eCommerce Editor, I spend my days window-shopping home retailers to bring you the hottest products at the lowest prices. Compared to their closest competitor, Lowe's, Home Depot is a little more expensive, but the range of products is much wider. I've learned how to shop the Home Depot sales to make the most of my money, and I want to share my wisdom with you.

Before we begin, I'll drop a few quick links to help you shop the Home Depot sales by department. Then, I'll explain more about the best time to shop at Home Depot and how to make sure you're getting a good deal.

Where to find the best Home Depot deals

• Home Depot Savings Center: browse everything on offer at Home Depot
• Appliance sales: save on Shark, Samsung, GE, and more
• Storage and organization sales: from free-standing cabinets to brackets and sockets
• Garden Center: save on soil, mulch, and fertilizer, as well as garden tools
• Tool savings: discounts on power tools, hand tools, batteries and chargers
• Home decor savings: furniture, bedding, kitchenware, wall art, and more

When is the best time to shop at Home Depot?

Home Depot Memorial Day sales

This year, Memorial Day falls on May 26. It's your last chance to buy outdoor furniture and decor that you'll actually get to use this summer.

Judging by previous years, you can also expect to see deep discounts on grills, pergolas, lawnmowers and insect repellents.

Home Depot Red, White & Blue Sale

Every 4th of July, Home Depot discounts appliances, such as washers and dryers, alongside lawn care and gardening supplies to get your yard looking its best for hosting season.

Home Depot Labor Day sales

If you can wait until September 1, you'll see the steepest discounts on grills and patio furniture, as Home Depot slash prices on summer items in a bid to shift stock and make way for the new season.

Home Depot Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales

This year, Black Friday falls on November 28, but I'd expect deals to start dropping at least a week in advance and run through Cyber Monday on December 1.

Black Friday is a great chance to stock up on home appliances as gifts for the holiday season. Cyber Monday is better for tools and smart home tech.

Home Depot After-Christmas sales

As soon as Christmas is over, you'll see steep discounts on indoor and outdoor holiday decor. I'm talking everything from lights and ornaments to artificial trees, so you can get ahead for next year.

Home Depot Spring Black Friday sales

This typically falls in April. You'll see deep discounts on mulch, gardening supplies, lawncare, grills, patio furniture: anything you can use to get your yard ready for the new year.

How do you know if you've got a good deal at Home Depot?

Join Home Depot Pro Xtra

This is the Home Depot loyalty program. It's free to join, and you get access to lower-than-shelf pricing, plus sneak peeks into site-wide sales events and free next-day delivery.

You'll earn perks with each purchase that you can redeem on your next order, plus discounts like 20% off paints, stains, and primers.

Make the most of bulk pricing

This is most useful if you're in the middle of a remodel or renovation. When you're buying in large quantities, you can get 10% to 15% off insulation, pavers, electricals, and all sorts of essentials.

Browse the Special Buy of the Day section

Every day, Home Depot lists a few dozen deals for 24 hours only in their Special Buy of the Day section. There's often a theme: power tool kits, perhaps, or seasonal outdoor decor.

Speaking as a penny-pincher, I'd encourage you not to make any impulse purchases you won't actually use. There's no point buying power tools that will just gather dust in your garage. On the other hand, if you can find a Special Buy of the Day that meets your needs, then you've just scored a deep discount on an essential.

FAQs

Is Home Depot better than Lowe's?

It depends what you're looking for. I turn to Home Depot for power tools, hardware, and appliances: practical items, rather than pretty ones. I prefer the outdoor furniture and decor offerings at Lowe's: they're more stylish.

Will Home Depot price match Amazon?

Yes. As long as the items are identical (same model, brand, size, and color), in stock and available for purchase at both stores, then you can request a price match.

First, you need to prove that Amazon stocks the same item at a lower price. You can include screenshots or a link to the relevant product listing when you contact the Home Depot Customer Solutions team.

I turn to the Home Depot for power tools and appliances, but I prefer to shop the Target deals for outdoor furniture and decor. You'll find deep discounts on garden goods to get your yard ready for the new year.

As fun and vibrant as city life can be, there's one downside that can't go ignored: air pollution. Cities are the most populated areas in the world, and with that comes a never-ending stream of pollutants from cars, homes and businesses.

Knowing how to to improve air quality indoors only involves some simple steps, but there's a bit more to consider when living in a city. Reminding yourself of these necessary habits will offer tremendous health benefits like clearer breathing and fewer allergic symptoms.

As an asthma and allergy sufferer living in the busy city of Bristol in the UK, I understand the effects of poor air quality. Luckily, I've tested many of the best air purifiers, which always help to keep my symptoms at bay, and through doing so, I've learned just how important an air purifier is, and what exact activities affect air quality at home.

How to improve the air quality in your home when living in a city

I caught up with a few air quality experts to put together this essential list of improving air quality when living in a city; for cleaner, healthier air.

1. Monitor air quality

Before doing any of the following steps, it will help to first understand your air quality.

An air quality monitor will track the air inside your home (available at Amazon and Home Depot). For outside your home, there are apps like the official EPA AIRNow app, showing current and forecast air quality information for your local area.

By understanding our air quality both indoors and outdoors, we then know when to close our windows, turn on the air purifier, or do any number of tasks that can affect the air we breathe.

2. Use a high-quality air purifier

An air purifier is easily the most effective way to improve your air quality at home. Living in a city exposes us to so many pollutants; pollen, vehicle fumes and wildfire smoke are some of the countless substances affecting our air quality.

To combat them, an air purifier will remove these harmful particles from the air, releasing cleaner, purified air back into your home. 'Air purifiers are important for removing pollutants, allergens, and toxins from the air,' affirms Aaron Traub, air quality expert and owner of Benny's AC & Heating.

The best purifiers work by utilizing both a mechanical filter (like a HEPA filter) and a carbon filter. This enables them to filter out particles and harmful gases, making both filter types essential when living in a city. You can find out more at our guide on how to choose the right air purifier for your home & lifestyle.

Molekule's air purifiers go a step further, and use PECO technology to actually destroy the organic pollutants at the molecular level.

3. Regular HVAC maintenance

Ideally, your HVAC system should be serviced twice a year, once before summer and once before winter. That way, you're taking care of the system's efficiency, making sure that everything is working as it should.

Aaron Traub seconds this: 'Replace air filters regularly, clean ducts, and schedule professional inspections at least twice a year. A clean, well-functioning HVAC system can significantly reduce indoor pollutants and do much of the work for you.'

An HVAC system's air filters will accumulate dust, dirt and moisture, and as a result microbial growths can build up on internal components. So your indoor air will be much cleaner with a regularly-maintained system.

4. Close windows (when appropriate)

As mentioned above, being aware of your indoor and local air quality will guide you on when it's time to close or open your windows. If outdoor pollutant levels are high, you'll benefit from keeping your windows closed and relying on AC and fans to stay cool.

'While fresh air can be beneficial, it often brings in pollutants and allergens in a city environment,' Aaron Traub confirms.

If the air quality outside is relatively good with low humidity levels, however, opening windows can improve indoor air quality. Tasks like cooking, dusting and vacuuming all affect our indoor air, so we sometimes need to ventilate our homes.

Alessandro Ronfini, partner at DEMO Architects, elaborates on this: 'If it's a particularly hot, windless day, it's quite possible that the outdoor air quality is worse than the indoor air and it's best not to open windows. When there is a nice breeze and humidity is low opening a window, even better two to create cross ventilation is a great idea.'

5. Clean often

The common allergens that live in our homes can be dealt with by cleaning regularly. Some of them even come from outside, like pollen, becoming part of the composition of the dust that we find on our floors and around the house.

As Aaron Traub puts it, 'dust and vacuum your home frequently, using a vacuum with a HEPA filter to remove dust, pet dander, and other allergens in your home.'

Our guide to the best vacuums for pet hair includes tried-and-tested HEPA vacuums that can handle hair, dust, and tiny allergenic particles.

6. Indoor plants

There's a wealth of plants out there with air purifying qualities. The best air cleaning indoor plants, including types like bird's nest fern and areca palm, can remove toxins like formaldehyde, mold spores and ammonia from the air.

Even snake plants, some of the most low-maintenance plants you can own, can eliminate airborne formaldehyde, nitrogen oxide, benzene, xylene and trichloroethylene – found in synthetic carpets, glues, paint and other interior fittings.

On the topic of improving your indoor air quality, it helps to have one of the best dehumidifiers. High humidity levels encourage mold, dust mites, asthma, and all sorts of allergic symptoms.

Make sure you know the best place to put your air purifier, too.

When working on something as big as a home renovation, being surrounded by mess is unavoidable. This mess is usually a result of all the sanding, grinding, demolishing, and drilling, spreading dust across your home in the process.

This dust can then become airborne, worsening your air quality and potentially damaging your health. To avoid this during a home renovation, you'll need to take a few steps to keep your indoor air clean.

Along with the best air purifiers, there are plenty of ways to protect your air quality amid a hefty home reno. Read on for our step-by-step guide.

How to keep your indoor air clean during a renovation

We spoke with air quality and home renovation experts to find out exactly what we can do to keep indoor air clean during a renovation.

1. Turn off the HVAC

First things first: turn off your HVAC system. It's easy to assume that our HVACs can filter out all the airborne dust, but it can damage your system.

'Turn the HVAC off when possible to prevent dust from accumulating inside the HVAC unit, leading to damage or increased potential for microbial growth,' explains Michael Rubino, mold and air quality expert and founder of HomeCleanse.

'If running the HVAC is a must, install the highest-rated MERV filters the unit can handle to prevent dust accumulation and change the filters often,' he emphasizes, adding that 'once they are caked in dust, they no longer work as well to filter out particles.'

If you must keep your HVAC on, you can find high-quality MERV filters at Home Depot.

2. Containment

As renovations can take place near living areas, it's important to keep things separate. Renovating produces dust and countless other particles that are harmful to breathe in, so you'll need to avoid them making their way into (and dirtying) the clean parts of the house.

Josh Rudin, owner of ASAP Restorations, explains that containment is the key to successful and dustless home renovations 'because it centralizes all of the dust particulates in one area.'

This can be as simple as plastic barriers that protect the work zone, preventing dust from spreading into other areas. Or, as Josh suggests, containment can involve creating multi-staged areas for different purposes.

'The first containment is simply to encompass the entire job work area. The second containment unit will be to separate the work area air from the prep area air, where technicians [or yourself] will suit up in PPE,' he explains.

Doing this will keep the messiest areas self-contained while having an area between the clean living area and the work area, preventing poor air from reaching healthier parts of the house.

3. Clean, constantly

Regular cleaning during such a famously messy process might not seem like a priority, but it's vital for protecting air quality and indoor spaces.

'Cleaning the machines, the people, and the apparatus that go into and out of the containments will also be a major factor in protecting the rest of the property from dust contamination,' Josh says.

To achieve a tight cleanliness, you'll need a HEPA vacuum. HEPA filters are able to capture much finer dust particles than other filter types, making them a necessity during home renovation.

'Use HEPA vacuums in lieu of shop vacs to prevent fine dust from recirculating,' explains Michael. He adds that vacuums are also important to avoid sweeping, as sweeping can aerosolize particles, making them more likely to get into your body through inhalation.

Our guide to the best vacuum cleaners includes a healthy selection of HEPA vacuums.

Josh mentions that, aside from vacuuming dust, cleaning also involves: 'wiping down the garbage bags that secure the demolition debris, double bagging them with gooseneck ties, wiping down the secondary bag, and then transporting the cleaned bags out of the containment.' This prevents dust from re-circulating back into your indoor air.

4. Ventilation

Considering the importance of containment - ventilation is helpful but only when done with care. Build-ups of dust can lead to bacteria and mold growing in your home, so keeping the space well-ventilated will naturally help during the timeline of your renovation.

'Ventilate the space well when the air quality is good outside and the humidity is 50% or less. This will help flush out those particles while avoiding opportunities that could worsen indoor air quality,' advises Michael.

5. Air purifiers

And now for the main one: actually keeping the air clean. Professional renovators will often use air scrubbers (available at Home Depot), but they tend to be expensive purchases for something that'll only get temporary use.

Instead, an air purifier can cleanse the air of dust and other harmful particles. Keeping an air purifier running during the work will capture airborne particles, removing them from the air you breathe and creating a healthier indoor air quality.

But you'll need to choose the right air purifier for the job. Many air purifiers are designed for at-home use, like removing pollen or wildfire smoke from the air, so you'd need a powerful and durable model to keep up with the renovation. Molekule's air purifiers work differently to others as they actually destroy the particles once captured, so they could be an ideal fit for heavy work such as home renovating.

The best air purifiers will cleanse your air from dust, pollutants and harmful particles while you're renovating your home.

If you're new to these types of home projects, our first-time renovators guide covers everything you need to know before getting started.

Appliances like the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi are probably not the first home addition you'd think of when trying to make your space more livable. But, like air purifiers, they should be. It’s not just about lowering the humidity of your home to something more comfortable, but keeping musty odors at bay, minimizing dust and allergens, and reducing the ability for mold to grow - not to mention that your air conditioner will run better with a lower humidity.

The Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi, as the name states, is more than just a straightforward dehumidifier. While its performance, at least in my mind, makes it a contender for the best dehumidifiers on the market right now, its feature set is also a large part of what makes this such a good model. That includes some smart features, as well as some dumb but crucially necessary ones like the continuous drain option.

Though it’s not perfect – it’s fairly heavy to move around and is on the pricey side – and your mileage may vary if you don’t find the best place to put a dehumidifier, the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi gets a hearty recommendation from this reviewer, particularly after having to use it in an unfinished basement with a minor leak (but more on that later).

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Specifications

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Price

The Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi, while appropriately priced, is on the pricier side of the dehumidifier market, retailing currently for $349, whether you get it direct from Frigidaire, or from Home Depot or Amazon. Lowe’s has it listed a bit higher at $380.

Considering that one of our favorite dehumidifiers, the GE 50-Pint Portable Dehumidifier, goes for $269.99, and you can get a decent sized one for as low as $150 (cheaper ones are generally much smaller), the price of the Frigidaire reviewed here might feel like it’s not worth it. However, if you like all the smart features on offer, such as controlling the unit from your phone, it’s worth the extra cash.

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Setup

The Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi is basically plug-and-play. Since it weighs 42 pounds (19 kg), the hardest part is pulling it out of the box. Beyond that, you just need to remove it from the protective plastic and plug in the power cable. There’s really nothing else you have to do to start dehumidifying other than turning it on and picking the mode (quiet or dry) and fan speed (low, medium, high).

There is a little more to the setup, however, as this dehumidifier, as the name suggests, comes with WiFi capabilities, meaning it supports an app. Luckily, setting the app up is painless. Just download the app from the appropriate mobile store, open it and follow the instructions, which mostly consist of pressing the WiFi button on the Frigidaire and connecting it to your WiFi network (so have your username and password ready).

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Design & Features

The Frigidaire comes in an attractive and somewhat discreet all-white colorway. Its “Gallery” designation somewhat differentiates it from the rest of Frigidaire’s line that have a black top, which stands out a bit more. It’s good that it’s designed to not stick out too much as it is pretty big. As mentioned previously, it weighs 42 pounds (19 kg). It’s also 24 ¾ inches tall (and 16 inches wide with a depth of 12 ¼ inches).

Even though it’s big, Frigidaire was thoughtful enough to include a retractable handlebar on top for relatively easy transportation (you still have to carry 42 lbs). Since there are no handles on the side, it’s tough to enlist a second person to carry this if you need to move it and find 42 lbs hard to pick up. I should mention that there are caster wheels to roll it around.

As far as controls go, they’re all lined up along the top and are fairly responsive to use. From left to right, there’s a mode select button where you choose between auto, quiet and dry mode (with a range of 48 and 52 dB volume-wise), Filter reset button, Timer, an LED display indicating if target humidity has been reached, Fan Speed button with three settings to cycle through, a power button, and a WiFi button to enable connecting to the app. While there’s some more functionality in the app, everything you need is basically on the unit except for turning on the ionizer.

Also of note is an LED indicator on the front that will let you know when the bucket is full, an easy access panel on the back with a washable dust filter, a front-loaded 2.1 liter bucket, and a drain for continuous use so you don’t have to keep emptying it manually.

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Performance

Though you could look at the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi’s 50 pints a day removal as a reliable benchmark, not to mention that it’s on par with other dehumidifiers that we’ve recommended, real world usage and testing is key. Luckily, I had a couple different basements, usually one of the most critical places in a house to keep dry, to test in.

Regardless of where I used it, it filled up fairly quickly requiring fairly regular emptying (just a reminder that there is a drain for use with a sump pump). One of the basements that I used it in had actually just suffered a leak from a water meter. Almost that entire corner was steeped in an inch of water. After sucking most of the water up with a wet vac, I used the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi to dry out the basement. 

It took just a day for the ground to dry out thanks to the dehumidifier. Even after, I kept it running in dry mode and its 2.1 liter bucket was a quarter full after just six hours of use. Basically, its dehumidifying performance is fantastic. And, even on its highest mode, it doesn’t get too loud (52 dB from five feet away, 68 dB if you’re right next to it).

Using the app is about as easy as everything else with this dehumidifier. All the information and controls are on one page with an additional menu page with instructions and ways to contact Frigidaire. There’s not much to say other than it’s minimalist, straightforward, and it's the only way to turn the ionizer on or off, or schedule the dehumidifier to work at certain times during the day.

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Maintenance

Because of the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi’s excellent and efficient performance, if you’re using it in a particularly high humidity environment, you’re going to have to empty it very, very regularly. While that’s not a bad thing – that’s the job it’s supposed to do – you better be prepared to pick up and empty a 2.1 liter bucket on a daily or almost daily basis. Luckily, pulling it out to empty is easy, it’s just a bit heavy. Emptying it is just as easy as you just need to tip it over wherever you need to empty it.

Accessing the dust filter is pretty straightforward as well, since there’s a panel on the back of the unit that pops right out that also holds that filter. Once out, the filter comes right out for a quick rinse.

Since it is heavy, it’s more than likely that the outside might get scuffed up when moving it from room to room. Luckily, since it’s encased in a fairly durable plastic, it’s hard to permanently dent it, and any scuffs are easily rubbed out.

How does the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi compare?

There’s no doubt about it, the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi is expensive when it comes to the world of dehumidifiers. The GE ADEL50LZ 50-Pint Dehumidifier, for instance, tops our best humidifier list and retails for $269.99 at Amazon and $268.02 at The Home Depot. Whether you’re willing to spend the extra $100 on the Frigidaire depends on how useful you’ll find having the smart features, whether it’s app access for turning on the ionizer or being able to use it with Alexa or Google Home.

A better comparison might be the LG PuriCare UD501KOG5 50-Pint Dehumidifier, which retails for a similar $383.27 at Walmart or $429 direct from LG, and also comes with app support, though it doesn’t seem to support smart home integration.

If you have a smaller space, you can certainly spend much less. Even Frigidaire offers the Frigidaire 22 Pint Dehumidifier for $199. 

Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi: Verdict

While you can certainly spend less on a dehumidifier – and that’s probably the biggest issue here – the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi is worth the cost if you’re into having a good amount of features. In fact, other models with similar WiFi capabilities, like the LG mentioned above, are in a similar price range.

If you don’t care about controlling it via an app or Alexa, there are cheaper options that are still pretty good. However, the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi comes with other important features such as a drain to be used with a sump pump and an ionizer function. 

Regardless of how you feel about your needs feature-wise, the performance is as good as it should be with the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi. That’s to say that it does its job and it does it well. Additionally, using and operating it, not to mention maintaining it, is just as straightforward. Functionally, the only real issue is the weight, but at least there’s a retractable handle and caster wheels.

Overall, the Frigidaire Gallery 50 Pint Dehumidifier with WiFi is very easy to recommend if you’re not on a budget.

For more on air quality, be sure to browse our expertly-tested guide of the best air purifiers. 

It's happened to every pool owner: you go on vacation, you don't have the time, or you simply forget to chlorinate your pool, leaving you with thousands of gallons of gross green water.

Usually, a little pool shock clears up the pool in no time. However, there are times when the shock just can't shift the algae. You pour in your shock, wait a day or two, and nothing happens.

Thankfully, there are a few easy fixes. I spoke to a pool expert to get a method that works almost every time, as well as some insider tips for the rare cases when the classic fix doesn't cut it.

Why wouldn't pool shock work?

Thankfully, by far the most common reason why pool shock wouldn't work is very straightforward. It's all to do with your pool's pH.

Pool expert Rafi Friedman told me that 'Pool shock works best with a balanced pH. If your pool's pH is too high or too low, the shock won't be effective. Ideally, your pool's pH should be close to neutral, around 7.2-7.4, before shocking.'

The reason your pool's pH isn't right is often due to CYA levels. CYA (or cyanuric acid) is also known as chlorine stabilizer, which helps to prolong chlorine's life and effectiveness. If you don't have enough CYA, your chlorine could be weakened. On the other hand, as the name implies, it's acidic, which can lower your pool's pH, which also affects chlorine.

For more help with pool shock, check out our coverage of how often to shock a pool or the difference between pool shock, chlorine, and bleach.

How do I change the pH of a pool so that the pool shock works?

Adjusting your pool's pH is fairly easy. Rafi told me that 'If your pool's pH is too high, you'll need to add an acid (I recommend sodium bisulfate) to bring it down, and if it's too low, you'll want to use something alkaline like sodium bicarbonate, aka baking soda.'

You can get sodium bisulfate on Amazon and pool bicarb from Home Depot, though that's really just branding - household bicarb like this from Walmart is identical and cheaper.

Adding these chemicals is pretty simple. Rafi says that 'Good pool test kits will come with dosing guides that will take into account the size of your pool and its current pH to help you decide how much to add to bring things back to neutral. If you're unsure of how much to add, add it slowly and test before adding more.'

My CYA and pH are fine, but my pool is still green - what should I do?

If you've tried all of the above and it isn't working, there are some other steps you can take. The first is an obvious one but easy to forget. Make sure you brush the floor and walls to shift the algae into the water. If you haven't brushed down the walls, the algae may be dead from the shock but stuck to the walls.

You should also check the filter and pump are working properly, because the shock may be working, but you aren't filtering out the worst of the algae.

If neither of these work, there are a couple of other potential issues. Copper is often the culprit behind green water. Copper oxidizes in chlorine, which will turn your pool green. This means that if you use algaecide as well as shock, check the label. If you're using a copper-based algaecide, it could be the source of your problem. Try using a copper-free Some pools also have devices that add a little copper into the pool to help kill bacteria. However, if there is too much copper in the pool you need a metal remover like this from Home Depot.

High phosphate levels - above 500 parts per billion - give algae a good food supply, so controlling the levels with a phosphate remover like this from Walmart could help remove cloudiness. That said, if you manage to kill the algae outright, it shouldn't be a problem.

You should also use a flocculant like this from Lowe's. Flocculants help to combine fire particles into clumps, so this can help with cloudiness. It may be that the algae is dead, but hanging in the water. A flocculant will gather together all the algae into a sediment which will can be easily removed with a pool vacuum.

What are the alternatives to pool shock?

If this all sounds like too much work, unfortunately, you're out of luck. Rafi says that 'If you want to avoid having to shock your pool, the best way is to probably use a completely different pool sanitation system. Something like saltwater or UV light will allow you to sanitize your pool without using any chlorine.'

That's great in theory but it would mean totally rebuilding parts of your pool to accommodate a new cleaning system. Though shock can be frustrating to use, it's still the best way to clean up a green, cloudy pool.

Pool shock FAQs

Does pool shock expire?

Yes, pool shock can expire. Liquid chlorine loses strength after about a month. Granular shock can last much longer - around five years - but if the bags it is in deteriorate, it can become wet and lose the ability to clean your pool.

For more about pool shock, take a look at our coverage of how often to shock a pool or the difference between pool shock, chlorine, and bleach.

A luxurious addition to your outside space, there's nothing quite like relaxing in a hot tub in the comfort of your backyard.

However, as much as we love many of the best hot tubs, they can be quite a big investment, so when summer sale events roll around and prices begin to drop on models across a whole host of brands and retailers, it is the perfect time to shop and make a saving.

To help you navigate through the sales, we've worked through the hot tub deals on offer from Target, Wayfair, and more, bringing you the very best deals available. From sleek, acrylic designs to more affordable inflatable options, these are the best hot tub deals to shop right now.

Hot tub deals quick links

• Amazon: shop hot tub sales – Amazon has a great hot tub offering. You can currently save on brands such as Bestway.
• The Home Depot: shop hot tub sales – The Home Depot has an extensive offering of luxurious tubs, many of their best-sellers are currently discounted.
• Target: shop hot tub sales – Enjoy great savings on popular brands such as Intex and Bestway.
• Walmart: shop hot tub sales – Extensive offering of hot tubs, including many of the best-selling brands.
• Wayfair: shop hot tub sales – Shop over 300 hot tubs on Wayfair, with options to suit all budgets.

Hot tub sale spotlight deals

FAQs

What is the cheapest time to buy a hot tub?

One of the cheapest times to buy a hot tub is during big sale events, such as Memorial Day, Amazon Prime Day, and Black Friday. This is when many retailers drop their biggest discounts, so if you're thinking of purchasing a hot tub, keep an eye out for good deals during these sale periods.

As most people look to buy hot tubs in spring and summer, some retailers drop hot tub prices out of season in autumn and winter, so this is also a good time to shop to save money.

As well as excellent hot tub deals, you can also enjoy plenty of other discounts across outdoor furniture in the summer sales. From loungers to tables and dining sets, we round up the best outdoor furniture deals in our dedicated feature.

Blue and white colors on ceramics are a classic. The beautiful balance of colors is crisp, elegant, and delicate. It's a failsafe option if you're looking to cultivate a timeless collection of plates, vases, and accessories in your home. 

If you look in my cupboards or on my mantle, you'll know that I love blue and white ceramics, but I'm also a bit of a snob. Whilst some pieces look undeniably elegant, there are plenty of knockoffs creeping onto crammed shelves in the store, which can make it hard to find truly premium designs amongst the masses.

Luckily for us, the British lifestyle brand, Laura Ashley, has partnered with VQ to bring an exquisite China Rose kitchen appliance collection, which features the most beautiful stand mixer and portable blender that I've ever seen. It's a treat for anyone, especially us blue and white snobs.

What's the collection and where can I find it?

Laura Ashley, the British Lifestyle brand is celebrating 70 years of success in the US, so they've teamed up with the home and electronic brand VQ to bring a series of appliances to the market, hand-glazed in some of Laura Ashley's most iconic prints.

These heritage designs are a classy take on the classic blue and white combination. The patterns, Elveden Navy, Elveden White, and China Rose, have been the brand's best sellers for years, so to be able to enjoy them in the kitchen is a true treat.

There's a whole range of different appliances on offer, but I've picked out some of my favorites: a portable blender, an immersion blender, a hand mixer, a slow cooker, and, a truly stunning stand mixer to deep dive into. If you want to know what to shop from the collection, here's my expert selection.

A quick introduction

I'll go into more details on the bigger, more substantial appliances. However, if you like the look of the style and just want a little bit of blue and white in your kitchen, here are my favorites from the collection.

More about the portable smoothie maker

We've tested some of the best personal blenders on the market and, whilst there are certainly some stunning designs on offer, I don't think any look as beautiful as this. All the blue and white decoration is hand-applied with incredible attention to detail, making this feel like so much more than a functional appliance.

The VQ Laura Ashley blender is completely cordless and super compact. It even comes with a 15 oz juice cup on top of the device, so you can use this with a drinking cap as your bottle. It's perfect for taking in your handbag or gym bag wherever you go.

The blender also comes with a built-in rechargeable battery that charges fully in 3.5-4 hours via a USB cable, which is included in the package. The 25,000-rpm engine powers six stainless steel cutter blades, which is plenty of power for crushing ice and handling tougher textures, such as frozen berries and leafy greens.

More about the immersion blender

I love immersion blenders. They're a great way to make the most of small spaces, especially if you live in an urban area and you need an appliance to function as a blender and food processor combination.

The VQ & Laura Ashley immersion blender is sleek (and beautiful, of course), with a 500-watt motor, and plenty of blending accessories. You'll get a pitcher for smoothies, a whisk for batters, as well as food chopper attachments. There's also a 10 oz whisking cup and pouring container if you're using your blender to make sauces. Whilst that might sound like a lot of accessories with the potential to get lost, this comes with a draw-string bag that has separate compartments, so you can keep everything in one place.

More about the hand mixer

Competition for being the best hand mixer on the market is tough. Braun, KitchenAid, and Smeg all make some stylish options, but the VQ & Laura Ashley one might have just clinched the spot for the most stylish model.

With a powerful, 300-watt motor and five speed settings, this boasts form and function. It has a special, comfortable grip, and comes with stainless-steel beaters and dough hooks that cover all your baking tasks.

More about the stand mixer

Stand mixers are some of the most beautiful, covetable kitchen appliances on the market and this is the most elegant one I've seen (and probably will ever see). The stainless steel bowl comes with a beater, whisk, and dough hook, so it'll be a useful assistant for any keen baker.

The capacity is perfect for family bakes. Plus, there are 10 speeds powered by an 1800-watt motor. It's set to be a favorite from this collection.

More about the slow cooker

Slow cookers are rarely beautiful, so I cannot overstate how pleased I am to see the VQ & Laura Ashley model in all its beauty.

The stainless steel bowl has a 3.5-liter capacity, which is brilliant for stews, soups, and casseroles. You can toggle between three heat settings and a keep warm function. Even better, the tempered glass lid helps keep all the moisture in your dish, whilst letting you check up on your dishes.

When you're finished cooking, the inner bowl can go in the dishwasher, making it just as easy to clean as it is to use. Plus, if you register the slow cooker on the VQ website, you'll get a three-year guarantee.

Why have Laura Ashley & VQ collaborated?

The thought behind a lifestyle and appliance brand collaborating isn't novel, but it's not always executed as expertly as the VQ & Laura Ashley collection has done. Carolyn D’Angelo, president of Laura Ashley Global, says, 'kitchens today are more beautiful and thoughtfully curated than ever before. The new range of floral-print tea kettles and toasters makes an everyday essential into something charming; customers will be proud to have their appliances on display.'

The brands wanted to deliver on substance and style, which is exactly what these do. They're charmingly timeless and a wonderful range. Last year, the brand launched a similar collaboration, which was a sell-out, so they're expecting similar success with the China Rose line.

Where can I buy the Laura Ashley & VQ collection?

Aside from shopping on the brand's site, the new Laura Ashley & VQ collaboration will be available at Wayfair, Bed Bath & Beyond, HSN, QVC and Home Depot.

I imagine that stocks will sell out soon, since this is a stunning style that was well-received the last time that VQ & Laura Ashley collaborated. In fact, the range received an extra feather in its cap when it recently won the Brand and Licensing Award of the Year in the Best Brand Licensed Electrical &/or DIY Products or Range category. I'll be testing them out over the next few weeks, so watch out for reviews.

There's nothing like a swimming pool in your backyard for relaxing in the sun. Swimming is a great way to keep fit and cool off on those balmy summer days.

However, keeping your pool clean by topping it up with chlorine is an expensive job. It costs a lot, needs practice, and even if you do everything right you're often left with a chemical smell and water that stings your eyes.

I spoke to a pool expert for advice about the alternatives to using chlorine. However, it seems like chlorine is your best bet.

Is it possible to clean a pool without chlorine or other chemicals?

It's possible to clean a pool without chlorine but unfortunately, it's not something you can switch to if your pool is set up for chlorine. .

Pool expert Rafi Friedman told me that most ways of cleaning and maintaining a pool without chlorine need specialist equipment, or a very clear plan from the start.

For example, you could make a natural pool. Rafi told me that 'Natural pools use plants and natural filters to create a clean swimming environment.' However, you can't just add plants to a chlorine pool. If you don't already have a natural pool, installing one will cost thousands of dollars in labor, parts, and plants.

Another alternative is a saltwater pool. However, you need to convert your pool to a salt pool by buying new filters, pumps, and a salt cell. What's more, saltwater pools still use chlorine. They generate chlorine from salt electrolysis, so if you want to completely avoid chlorine, you're out of luck.

Rafi suggests that 'You can also use tools like ionizers and ozone generators to reduce your need for chlorine, though you'll still want to use some.' You can find cheap solar ionizers like this on Amazon, but if you're blonde, it might turn your hair green. Ozonators don't have this problem, but they're very expensive. For example, this ozonator at Leslie's Pool Supplies is nearly $1000. What's more, with both of these solutions, you still need to use chlorine.

Whatever you do, make sure you research your pool and whether or not it's suitable for these methods. Rafi says to 'Always carefully do your research before employing alternative pool cleaning methods; using the wrong method on the wrong pool could result in health hazards or serious damage to your pool equipment.'

Should you use bromine?

There's no 'natural' way to clean a pool. Chlorine is your best option for keeping a pool clean because it kills algae and bacteria. However, if you're dead set against using chlorine, you could try using bromine. Rafi told me that 'While bromine is another option to avoid chlorine, it has many of the same chemical properties.'

Bromine is good because it works over a greater amount of time than chlorine, so you need to replace it less often. It smells less strongly than chlorine, is less likely to trigger asthma, and it's kinder on your eyes. Bromine is also more stable at hotter temperatures, so if you have a hot tub as well as a pool, using bromine on both could save you a little money.

However, bromine breaks down in UV, so if your pool gets a lot of full sun, it won't be as effective. Bromine is also more expensive than chlorine, so it won't help if you're trying to save money. What's more, if you have a bad skin reaction to chlorine, bromine will cause the same symptoms.

Chlorine FAQs

Does chlorine affect pH?

Too much chlorine will raise the pH level of your water and make it slightly alkaline, which can cause rashes. You can lower pH with muriatic acid like this from Home Depot.

For more help with your pool, take a look at our pool ideas and advice about pool shock and bleach.

Estate sales are treasure troves for connoisseurs of vintage decor and unique items for the home. From furniture to ornaments and entire dinnerware sets, estate sales are a great place to scout out things that you simply won’t find anywhere else. If you know how to look, you could walk out with a unique bargain. 

On the flip side of that, estate sales also often have a lot of items that are best avoided. From health and hygiene concerns to the potential for hugely overpaying for an item, there will be things at an estate estate that are safer to leave alone. 

We’ve asked estate sales and vintage experts to give their top tips for steering yourself away from buying decisions you could later regret. Even if they seem like great value at the time, these are the things you should never buy at an estate sale.

1. Baby items

Baby items like cribs and seats should never be bought second-hand anywhere, whether at an estate sale or a yard or garage sale, cautions Nora Curl, an antique appraisal expert. 

'The safety standards for cribs and child seats change over time,' she explains. 'These older products may have been manufacturer recalled for posing a danger to infants. You really don’t want something that doesn’t meet current safety requirements.' 

2. Bed and bath items

An estate sale is no place to be buying mattresses, towels, or toiletries. ‘All of these may harbor bacteria,’ says Nora. Bedlinen is also best avoided, however pretty and embroidered it may be.

There are some exceptions to this rule. Sealed, unexpired toiletries and perfumes may be okay to buy at an estate sale if they’ve been correctly stored. Obviously, you won’t be able to test them for freshness before you buy them, but anything still in its plastic packaging should be okay. 

Vintage bed quilts can also be a fine estate sale purchase if you want to nail that vintage bedroom aesthetic, but you’ll need to check for mildew and stains carefully. 

3. Upholstered furniture

Sorry to disappoint you if you were after an upholstered chair or chaise, but it’s best not to buy these items at estate sales. Nora Curl says that this rule applies to both vintage and contemporary upholstered furniture ‘as there may be bug infestations that you would not want to bring back into your own home.’ 

While we’re at it, remember to inspect all furniture for signs of mice, spiders, and termites. A large enough item may harbor them deep in one of the drawers, and you don’t want to discover them after the purchase! 

If you truly have your heart set on buying a vintage couch, you could always make the purchase and reupholster the couch with a new fabric after treating it for any signs of pests or deterioration. 

4. Expired items

If you’re considering buying home supplies like paint, furniture stains, or essential cleaning supplies, always check that they haven’t expired. It can be tempting just to ignore expiration dates, but they’re there for a reason, and you could end up wasting your money on ineffective or defective products.  

Jennifer L. Prince, owner and reseller at It's Found Vintage, says that this doesn’t mean you necessarily need to avoid these items - just the ones that are expired or don’t have an expiry date on them. She has bought these items at estate sales but ‘made sure that they were still usable and that they were either full or almost full.’

5. Ubiquitous items

By 'ubiquitous items' we mean anything you can easily buy cheaper at Walmart or Home Depot. From tools to paint, widely available items sold at estate sales can be overpriced. Even if you need it, Google it before buying. You’ll find out whether the item is priced fairly within seconds. It can be tempting to just enjoy browsing and go by instinct, but the reality is that you often will find items that are cheaper – and in better working condition – when bought new.

Jennifer gives an example from her own experience: ‘my husband was in the tool section and found furniture clamps that have been on our list of things to look for. We didn't do our due diligence and thought they were expensive to buy new. We bought a pair for $15 only to find out that they were only $10 or so new, so we had a little bit of buyer's remorse.’

Unique and one-of-a-kind items will be harder to compare with other items online or in stores, so if you can’t find one just like it – just buy it.  

6. Artworks claiming to be by famous artists

Avoid artwork items by world-famous artists: these almost certainly are reproductions. Nora Curl cautions that ‘often ‘famous’ works are reprinted on texturized board or varnished over the surface to look like brush strokes on an original painting.’

To put it bluntly, you won’t find a Rembrandt or a Monet at an estate sale. Any family that owns such an item will sell a world-class original at a national (or international) auction or go through a specialized art dealer. 

There is one caveat: you may well be able to find original works by local artists at estate sales. You should speak to the estate sales staff about any painting that you think may be an original. 

7. Board games

‘Board games and jigsaw puzzles run the risk of missing pieces,' says Nora Curl. Unless these are board games that are still sealed and haven’t been opened, you won’t find out whether they’re functional until you get home. So, save your money and buy new ones instead.  

8. Shoes

Vintage shoes may look great, but they’ve been molded to the shape of someone else’s feet, so they’re highly unlikely to be comfortable for you. Leather shoes also lose their durability over time - even if they’ve never been worn. The leather gets brittle and dry, and the glue can also dry up and crack. 

The exception: if you really know your shoes and spot a designer pair that you know can’t be very old, you may have found yourself a bargain. 

9. Large items if you don’t have the transport

Many buyers are tempted by large, impressive furniture items at estate sales. Think a Queen Anne armoire or a four-poster bed. The question you should always ask yourself before committing to such an item is: how will you get it home? 

Nora Curl explains that ‘most estate sales require that you move and transport large items yourself, so if you are not prepared to or don’t have the right vehicle to move a large armoire, then steer clear of large size items.’

If you browse an estate sale catalog ahead of time, you will have an opportunity to research transportation options. A local moving company might be able to help, but you’ll need to factor their service into the cost of your purchase. 

10. Higher-priced items that hasn’t been or can’t be authenticated

People shop at estate sales for different reasons. You may just be wandering in an open-minded state in case something interesting catches your eye. In that case, forget the rules and get whatever is within your budget that you like. 

However, suppose you are hunting for specific antiques or manufacturers/types of items (say, an Eames chair, an eighteenth-century rug, or a Bitossi vase). In that case, you either need to know exactly what authenticity markers you’re looking for, or you need the estate sales staff to provide some form of authentication. 

Typically, reputable estate sales companies will have had the more expensive items independently appraised. Rebecka Atwell, owner of The Discerning Eye, a Denver area full-service estate sale company, says that she often seeks assistance ‘from expert appraisers for identifying and authenticating antique rugs and original artwork, among many other decorative collectibles. It is of the uttermost importance to me that items are never misrepresented at our sales, especially because I specialize in higher-end estate sales and often deal with sought-after collectibles.’’ 

For a respectable estate sales company, ’reputation is everything.’ However, not all companies are willing to invest in appraisals. It’s always a good idea to ask if in doubt - and to research expensive items ahead of time whenever possible. If on the day you are doubting the authenticity of a highly-priced item, and its provenance cannot be proved, it’s best to walk away. 

Don't let these dud items put you off finding treasure at estate sales. There are plenty of bargains and unique one-off items to be found if you go with an open mind and do your research ahead of time. 

As we get into grilling season, it's smart to reconsider where you place your grill. It's often easiest to put it wherever you have room, but it's not always the best spot.

A badly-placed grill means smoke blowing at your house, worries about fire safety, or tricky the logistics as you get your food to the table. Where you place your grill can have a big impact on your food. 

I've tried lots of different grill configurations as I've tested the best grills, so I know exactly what works and what doesn't. I also spoke to a landscaper and a grilling expert about where to place a grill for the best results. 

Rule 1: The 6 Foot Rule

There's a golden rule when placing a grill in your backyard. You need six feet of clearance in every direction around your grill, so it shouldn't back against the wall of your house or against a railing. This is so that no one trips nearby and nothing can catch on the grill and start a fire. 

Barbecue judge Harry Miller agrees, telling me that a grill 'needs to be far away from the house and any flammable or combustible items such as a stack of firewood. If you have a concrete patio, it can sit right on the patio surface and should not be an issue.' He also warned that the 6 feet rule also applies vertically. 'Remember, heat rises, so check the air space above the grill as well. Trees, tall shrubs, or bushes can be affected by this heat or, worse, catch fire.' This also means that you shouldn't grill under a porch or a gazebo. 

Rule 2: Consider the wind

A less vital but important rule is to consider the wind. A rough idea of the prevailing wind in your local area will help you place your grill. Harry Miller told me to 'Take the wind direction into account. Keep your guests, the kids, and furry friends out of the line of smoke.' 

Grill smoke can be bad for your health, and you don't want it stinging people's eyes as they relax. Wind direction is also crucial for keeping your neighbors on your side. A poorly placed grill could blow smoke right at their house, which is anti-social.

Should I place my grill on a patio or deck?

It's straightforward: a patio is the best place for a grill. There's a much lower fire risk on stonework than on any other material, and the flat surface makes it easy to move your grill around if you need to reconfigure your furniture.

Grill placement on a deck depends on the material. Unfortunately, you shouldn't put a grill on a wooden deck. There's an obvious fire risk with having a hot grill on top of wood, so it's best not to grill on a wooden deck. 

Of course, for some people, this can't be helped. Barbecue judge Harry Miller says that if you can only put your grill on a wooden deck, 'get a non-flammable grill mat or buy a piece of concrete backer board and put it under the grill.' You can get cheap grill mats at Walmart, and you can get concrete backer board at Home Depot, or other big-box hardware stores. Harry's other tip is that 'If you want the backer board to have better eye appeal, spray paint it with black high-heat grill paint.' You can grab high-heat grill paint at Amazon or a local hardware store. 

Can I place my grill near a pool or a hot tub?

The six-foot rule also applies to pools. Rafi Friedman, CEO of Coastal Luxury Outdoors, told me that it just creates too many risks. 

'A hot grill falling into a pool full of people could lead to serious injuries, splashing water can create a slippery environment, and there's also the risk that the food - or the cook - could fall in,' he says.  

Are there HOA rules about where I can place my grill?

Homeowners Associations often have rules about where you can and can't grill, and these vary depending on the Association. A HOA may have rules about how far away your grill must be from your house; for example, some HOAs take the six-foot rule even further, and say your grill must be ten feet away from any hazards. This is especially true in multi-family units. Many apartments and condominiums ban grilling, even if you own your condo. 

However, lots of HOAs don't have any rules about grilling at all, because most people grill in their backyard. It varies from place to place, so make sure you research the rules before you buy a new grill. 

For more about grills, I've covered best wood for smoking and taken a deep dive into the debate about charcoal vs gas grills.

If you're in the market for a mower, you may be weighing up two seemingly opposite options. That said, the debate between corded mowers vs cordless mowers seems a little obvious. Corded mowers have that annoying cable and cordless mowers offer total freedom. 

However, before you take the plunge, there are still a few benefits to find in a corded mower. Cordless mowers are great, but they aren't the only game in town. 

I've tested dozens of lawnmowers in my career, so I know exactly what makes for the best lawnmower. I also spoke to a landscaping expert for his advice on the benefits and drawbacks of both types of mowers. 

What are the benefits of corded mowers?

The biggest benefit is that corded mowers are cheap. Unlike gas mowers with big engines or cordless mowers that need batteries, a corded mower is incredibly cheap. For example, my go-to corded mower, the Ryobi 13", available at Amazon, is usually only $150, which is hundreds of dollars cheaper than the alternative. 

Because the engine is much smaller, corded mowers tend to be much lighter - and therefore easier to handle - than equivalent gas or cordless mowers. The Ryobi I just mentioned only weighs 22 lbs, whereas a similar gas mower like this Briggs and Stratton Gas Walk Behind Push Mower, available at Home Depot, weighs twice as much. 

Corded mowers are also much easier to maintain than gas mowers, for example. Gas mowers need oil changes, spark plug checks, filter maintenance, and other little bits of DIY. A corded mower plugs into an outlet and is ready to go. 

Though the cord is often the biggest drawback, there is a benefit. According to appliance expert Clint De Boer, corded mowers 'have continuous power, so there’s no need to worry about running out of juice halfway through mowing.' Unlike gas mowers or cordless mowers, a corded mower will run for as long as you have power. 

What are the drawbacks of a corded mower?

The big drawback with a corded mower is - unsurprisingly - the cord. Power cords limit the range of your mower and they can also be a safety issue. Appliance expert Clint De Boer told me that 'A corded mower is powered by a 120VAC wall outlet and requires an extension cord of sufficient size and length to reach all areas of your yard. Confined by the length of the hefty extension cord, these mowers have limited reach and require a nearby outlet.' 

In short, if you have a big yard, a corded mower won't cut it. Alternatively, you can use an outdoor extension cord like this from Walmart. However, my first experience of mowing was tackling my parents' yard with a corded mower. Chasing 100ft of extension cord up and down a long, narrow yard is a pretty tedious chore, and I don't recommend it if you can avoid it. 

What's more, you have to be very careful about where you mow. If you stop paying attention for even a second you can run over the cord. This can blow a fuse and knock out your power or even worse, start a fire. 

Corded mowers are also less powerful than their gas and cordless equivalents. In fairness, it's a small difference, but the other types of mowers are more powerful, which means a cleaner cut and less tearing on the grass. 

What are the benefits of a cordless mower?

As the name suggests, cordless mowers do away with the single biggest issue of corded mowers: that pesky power cord. Cordless mowers run on lithium-ion batteries, which means you can use them all over your yard. There's no range limit and no fears about running over a cord. 

This freedom brings other benefits, too. Clint De Boer told me that cordless mowers are also 'perfect for navigating obstacles, hills, and otherwise uneven lawns. They work well with spaces that are separated by distance and/or flower beds, driveways, or ditches.' 

The technology in lithium batteries is constantly improving, which means cordless mowers are increasingly powerful. A few years ago, cordless mowers were a little feeble. Nowadays, the power has ramped up. 

According to Clint De Boer, 'Perhaps the most astonishing fact is that the flagship cordless mowers now outperform their gas counterparts in terms of raw power. You can also get enough runtime on these mowers to cut lawns up to 3/4 of an acre.' 

While corded mowers tend to be a little lighter than cordless mowers, it's a pretty small difference and not one you'd notice. That cheap Ryobi is 22 lbs; an equivalent Worx cordless mower like this at Amazon is only 7 lbs heavier. 

What are the drawbacks of a cordless mower?

A drawback is that cordless mowers are a little more expensive than corded mowers. It can be a difference of hundreds of dollars, so if you're on a tight budget. you're better off with a cordless mower. 

Cordless mowers also have limited runtimes. The worst will only last about half an hour. and if you have a larger lawn, that isn't enough time to cover all your grass. If your garden has lots of small lawns spread between different areas - separated by paths, decks, pools, or planters, you may find that you mow some areas and then have to wait to mow the others while your mower recharges, which is pretty frustrating. 

Cordless mowers also lose runtime over the years. Even when they're not being used, cordless batteries slowly discharge ions and lose the ability to hold charge. A mower that gives you 45 minutes of runtime out of the box may give you 40 or 35 minutes of runtime after a few years. 

Buy a corded mower if...

• You're on a budget 
• You have a small lawn

Buy a cordless mower if...

• You have a small lawn 
• You want a lightweight mower
• You want a simple mower
• You want a mower that won't disturb neighbors

However, these two mowers aren't the only game in town. It's worth considering how much you should spend on a lawnmower and the benefits of the different types before you buy. 

Hard water can be bad news for a homeowner. The telltale sign of hard water in your home is limescale deposits on your bathroom and kitchen fixtures. These manifest as unsightly stains – which you most likely have spent many hours removing over and over again.

But the problem is much bigger than just the aesthetics: hard water is hard on pipes, corroding and clogging them over time and causing leaks and breakages. Hard water can also mess with your appliances, from washing machines to tea kettles, causing buildup in pumping mechanisms and heating elements. 

Hard water can be problematic for people with sensitive skin or skin problems, too. While it’s not been proven to be harmful, hard water can feel drying, which some people say makes existing problems like eczema worse. Some people also dislike the taste of hard water because of its high mineral content, though that’s a matter of preference. 

Needless to say, for many people, hard water in their home is undesirable. But how do you fix the problem once and for all?

How to fix hard water in your home

We’ve asked professional plumbers to name the best way to fix hard water in your home – and how much the solution will cost you. We’ll also look into the typical costs of fixing this issue.

How do you know if you have hard water in your home?

You probably already know that you have hard water because of the telltale signs: hard water stains on stainless steel fixtures, glass, and tiles; buildup on your kettle; a dry feel to skin and hair after showering, and, perhaps, a mineral aftertaste to your drinking water. 

But to know for certain, you will need a water testing kit. The kit will analyze a water sample from your home for the levels of calcium carbonate in the water. Some test kits also test the pH balance of your water and come with what’s known as the water aggressiveness index. The term ''aggressive water'' refers to water that is soft and acidic; it will corrode your pipes, but due to its pH and not its mineral content.

Tests cost as little as $10 and can be bought on Amazon. The more basic ones only test for calcium, but the more advanced ones also tell you if your water contains copper, iron, lead, chlorine, fluoride, and other problematic deposits. 

To determine the hardness of your water, you only need the calcium carbonate test. Levels above 120mg/L are considered hard water and indicate that you need a water softener. 

How to fix hard water in your home once and for all

There is only one reliable way to banish hard water from your home: installing a water-softening system. Water softeners are installed at the main water supply to the house - typically in the basement or kitchen. 

Jake Romano, professional plumber and Manager at Environmental Plumbing, explains how water softeners work: ‘‘ The water supply feeds into the softener, from which it is treated to "soften" it, then supplied to the fixtures and appliances within your home. A water softener works by filtering the water through salt beads that use ions to attract the minerals from the water and draw it from the water.’’ 

Whole-house filtration systems involve large tanks and they will cost you. The total cost of installing whole-house water softeners ranges from approximately $500 to $3,000. If you’re very experienced at DIY, especially plumbing, you could try installing one yourself. You will need pipe cutters; these can be bought on Amazon or rented from your local Home Depot or Lowe’s. 

This is a job that you want done right, though, so if you’re not completely confident, let a professional do the job for you. Jake Romano strongly recommends getting a professional to do it rather than attempting a DIY installation. He also recommends getting a higher-end unit if you can afford it: ‘I may be biased because of my industry, but I think getting a good unit is the right move.' Note that this doesn't mean getting 'the biggest, fanciest unit' as that can be counterproductive in many circumstances.' Trust what your plumber is advising you to get.

Once you've had the water softening system installed, there will be ongoing maintenance costs, too. These typically include:

• Salt: 'Salt for your water softener isn't too expensive, but it definitely adds up over time', says Jake Romano.
• Resin beads
• Water usage and electricity
• System replacement (eventually)
  

Don’t worry, though: you won't need to replace anything too often. A good water softening system will last 10-15 years.

FAQs

What about under-the-sink filters/shower filters? 

You may be tempted to go with a shower filter and/or a filter under your kitchen sink. Both are acceptable solutions for those specific areas, but it’s important to understand that they will still let the hard water run through the rest of your plumbing and appliances. 

A shower filter, in Jake’s opinion, will work ‘to some degree, but even good ones can't compete with a water softener, and just allowing hard water to run through your plumbing system is going to damage it.’

John Jordan, President at Integrity Heating and Cooling, says essentially the same thing about under-the-sink filters: ‘Installing just one filter under the sink will provide you with soft water for drinking and cooking but won’t protect your house appliances from hard water damage. If you are looking for a more comprehensive approach, installing an under-sink filter is not a solution.’ 

Do I really need to fix hard water in my home? 

Some people might wonder if they really want the hassle and expense of installing a whole-house water filter. Isn’t hard water just a fact of life in some areas? 

The truth is that while many people do live with hard water, this comes at a significant cost. In the worst cases and in areas with extremely hard water, you could be looking at having to replace all of the pipework in a house, which can run into tens of thousands. That’s because you often have problems with pipes that run behind walls and in pipe joints that need to be replaced. 

Do you have a water heater or boiler? Here’s a nasty surprise for you: very hard water can ruin this appliance within as little as two years. Again, this will be a costly replacement. 

The damage usually will be less catastrophic to appliances like washing machines and dishwashers because you can replace the affected parts. Still, it’s an unnecessary expense - and an extra effort on your part, or a plumber call-out. 

These expenses can add up over time and will far outweigh the cost of installing a hard water filter. 

What if I rent? Can I still have a whole-house water softening system installed?  

If you rent, you would need to get your landlord to have a water filter installed. You would need to convince them it was worth their while to make the investment. If you’re renting somewhere long-term and think the water is very hard, get it tested, and then present your case to your landlord (in writing). Explain how hard water will damage the pipes and appliances the landlord is responsible for replacing. 

While this doesn’t guarantee that your landlord will agree to have a water softener installed, they may well agree. 

Another common plumbing issue faced by US households is low water pressure. Thankfully, unlike hard water issues, it is simple enough to learn how to identify and fix low water pressure on a DIY basis.