My string of hearts is undoubtedly the cutest houseplant in my collection. Long strings adorned with heart-shaped leaves never fail to capture my guests' attention. But, when these plants drop their leaves, the bare strands aren't so attractive.

It's a common problem when growing a string of hearts (whether a standard variety or a variegated string of hearts, like this from Walmart). Prolonged drought, incorrect lighting, pest problems, and other issues can all result in leaves dropping quickly and even contribute to the gradual decline of the the plant.

The good news is a simple adjustment in its growing environment will help your string of hearts recover quickly and stop it from happening again. Here, a houseplant expert explains the five common causes behind a string of hearts dropping leaves and what to do to fix it.

1. Severe Dehydration

The number one cause behind a string of hearts dropping leaves is a lack of water.

Sing of hearts is a semi-succulent plant with fleshy leaves and tubers that store water. This means they can cope with some drought, but prolonged periods will result in symptoms like leaf drop.

'If the plant hasn’t been watered for several weeks or months, it’ll go into survival mode. The leaves will become thin, wrinkled, and limp,' explains Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'To conserve its remaining moisture, the string of hearts begins sacrificing older leaves (usually near the base), which dry up and fall off,' she describes.

To fix this, use houseplant gardening snips (these Fiskars ones on Amazon are a reliable choice) to prune away any damaged, dehydrated foliage. You should then adjust your houseplant watering approach.

'Water the plant thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. If the houseplant soil has become so dry that it doesn't absorb water and has pulled away from the sides of the pot, use the bottom watering method: place the pot in a container of water for 15–20 minutes so the root ball can fully rehydrate,' Marina suggests.

2. Root Rot

The other end of watering mistakes is oversaturating your string of hearts' soil. These delicate trailing plants don't cope with soggy conditions and are susceptible to houseplant root rot from sitting in waterlogged soil.

'Without a healthy root system, the leaves turn yellow, become soft, and fall off,' Marina notes.

'The best thing to do is let the soil dry out completely, all the way to the bottom of the pot, before watering again. Use pots with drainage holes and a light, well-draining potting mix (a succulent mix with added perlite is ideal, like this succulent potting mix from Walmart),' she adds.

If your string of hearts' roots are really mushy, you may need to prune houseplant roots. Focus on removing the most damaged ones, leaving a sufficient root system with firm roots and tubers.

I also suggest picking up a soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon) weekly to check your string of hearts' soil. This will identify just how wet the soil is and if it's time to top up water or let it dry out for a bit longer.

3. Insufficient Light

It's common to style these houseplants on a high shelf or bookcase, with its vines cascading down. While no doubt beautiful, this often leaves the top of the plant in a darker spot.

'As a result, the long stems hang beautifully in the light, while the base of the plant in the pot remains in complete shade. The leaves at the base begin to thin and drop,' Marina says.

'The top of the plant becomes completely bare, even though the vines below may continue growing,' she explains.

Ideally, string of hearts need 4-6 hours of bright light, with exposure over all of the plant. Though, you should avoid a direct sun position which can cause sunburn and leaf scorch.

'Lower the pot. Light should fall from above, illuminating the soil surface and the bases of the stems,' Marina suggests.

You can also supplement daylight with a grow light. This houseplant grow light from Amazon with an automatic timer is low-effort to use.

4. Cold Drafts

Temperature fluctuations can shock plants and cause symptoms like stunted growth and leaf drop. When it comes to string of hearts, its sudden cold drafts that cause such symptoms.

'Native to South Africa, this semi-succulent loves stable warmth, around 64-77°F and reacts immediately to sudden environmental changes. Leaves may drop in large numbers while still green, sometimes within just a few days,' Marina says.

'The cause may be a cold draft from an open window in winter, from an air conditioner, or proximity to a hot radiator, which dries out the stems,' she notes.

For this reason, you should position your string of hearts in a warm corner of the home, out of the path of a draft. Don't forget to also follow winter houseplant care by moving your string of hearts away from cold windows.

'Avoid rotating or moving the pot unnecessarily over the next few weeks while it recovers,' Marina advises.

You can use this room thermometer from Walmart to monitor the temperature for your string of hearts going forward.

5. Pest Damage

String of hearts can come under attack of a range of houseplant pests, most notably spider mites and mealybugs, as well as aphids and scale insects.

'The string of hearts is resistant to many problems, but dry air and weakened vigor can make it vulnerable to pests,' says Marina. 'If infested, the leaves develop yellow patches, become deformed, curl, and eventually fall off,' she explains.

It's important to determine which pest is attacking your string of hearts to know how to get rid of them. Fine webbing is a sign of spider mites, while white, sticky clumps on stem nodes may indicate mealybugs.

You should isolate the plant so the pests don't spread to other houseplants, and deal with the infestation accordingly. Our guide to getting rid of spider mites on houseplants has more information, for example.

To avoid a pest problem in the future, regularly check your string of hearts, including underneath its leaves where they can be found hiding, and take care to clean your houseplant leaves.

What to Shop

Once your string of hearts has bounced back from dropping leaves, you can try propagating your string of hearts to get more plants for free. Take care to read up on water propagation mistakes before doing this, to boost your chances of success.

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In my experience, getting watering right is the number one thing houseplant owners struggle with. One common occurrence is when incorrect watering turns soil hydrophobic, meaning it won't absorb any water or it dries unevenly.

This is the result of common indoor plant mistakes where soil is left to stay dry for too long, the potting mix is old, or it can be the result of intense heat. These things actually turn soil repellent to water, so you'll see it pool on the surface and struggle to absorb.

The good news is it's super easy to resolve hydrophobic soil and improve your houseplant's growing environment. Here, I share the steps I take when my houseplant soil won't absorb water and how I avoid it happening again.

What Causes Hydrophobic Soil?

There are several causes behind why houseplant soil won't absorb water.

While there are several houseplants that thrive on neglect, leaving soil to sit in a prolonged period of drought can result in houseplant potting mix becoming unable to absorb water.

This is especially the case when potting mix has peat moss or coco coir in it, both of which turn waxy and water-repellent when left to dry out entirely.

Likewise, drought can shrink and shrivel your plant's root ball, resulting in it pulling the soil away from the edges of the pot. When you then water your houseplants, you'll spot the water trickling down the sides of the pot, rather than being absorbed from the surface.

This is worsened during hot spells, where room temperature is significantly higher and dries soil out faster. Without increasing watering frequency to support this, your plants are at risk of heat stress, leaf scorch, and hydrophobic soil.

Another cause behind why houseplant soil won't absorb water is the age of the potting mix. Organic components in the soil break down over time and the soil becomes compacted, making it trickier to absorb water.

Fertilizing mistakes and excess plant food can likewise be a cause. This is because it can create crystalized barriers in the soil, stopping full absorption.

Whatever the case, it's best to act immediately when you spot water isn't absorbing properly, so your plants aren't left to dehydrate and excess pooling water doesn't cause mold on the soil surface.

How to Fix It

I personally like to give my houseplants struggling with hydrophobic soil fresh new houseplant potting mix.

The best potting mix for indoor plants is a peat-free, well-draining, and moisture retentive blend (like this Miracle-Gro houseplant potting mix from Lowe's). Though, you can also opt for specific blends for plants, like this monstera potting mix from Amazon.

When repotting with the new mix, gently brush away any soil on the roots. The new soil will then provide a brand new, healthy and nutrient-rich growing environment for your plants.

If your houseplants are severely dehydrated, try soaking the root ball in a bowl of water for 20 minutes before repotting to rehydrate it.

You should also use the pencil trick to aerate houseplant soil. I like to do this every so often to ensure the soil remains well-draining and breathable for roots. If you're houseplant soil is only just starting to absorb water slowly, this can be enough to fix it.

Going forward, make sure to also use a soil moisture meter (I have this one on Amazon) every time you pick up your houseplant watering can. This will tell you just how wet the soil is, so you never over or underwater again.

Bottom watering houseplants can also improve moisture management. It allows the roots to soak up sufficient water without becoming oversaturated. Using a self-watering planter (like these pretty green ones on Amazon) provides a reservoir so plants don't become dehydrated.

What to Shop

There are quite a few summer houseplant care mistakes to be aware of as we approach the hottest months of the year. This includes watering too often and not checking for pests regularly. Getting into a routine with checking your houseplants weekly during summer can help prevent bigger issues developing.

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June is when jade plants (Crassula ovata) really start to respond to the changing conditions. The days are longer, the light is stronger, and temperatures are starting to rise, which usually nudges them into more active growth.

If your jade plant care is on track at this point, the plant will generally stay compact, healthy, and well-shaped. If something’s off, though, it shows fairly quickly – you’ll start to notice leggy stems or a slightly uneven look.

The good news is that jade plants are forgiving. Trust me, I've often neglected mine in the past, and it has continued to thrive.

When thinking about what to do with a jade plant in June, it usually comes down to a few small, timely adjustments rather than anything complicated. Those simple tweaks now can make a real difference in how the plant looks throughout summer.

1. Move It Into Brighter Light

If your jade plant has been sitting in a lower-light spot through spring, June is a good time to give it a little more sun. One of the biggest parts of where to place a jade plant is finding a spot with plenty of bright light, ideally with a few hours of gentle direct sun each day.

A south- or west-facing windowsill is usually a good fit. Just avoid moving it straight into intense midday sun too quickly, as the leaves can scorch if the change is too sudden.

If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, a simple grow light can help. Something like the full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon works well for supplementing light levels, especially in darker rooms or apartments.

If you’re moving your jade outdoors for summer, ease it in gradually. Start it in light shade for a few days, then slowly increase the amount of sun it gets over the course of a week or so. That gentle adjustment helps prevent stress and keeps the leaves looking healthy.

2. Water More Thoughtfully, Not More Frequently

It’s easy to assume warmer weather means you need to water a jade plant more often, but that’s usually where people go wrong. Even in June, jade plants still prefer a 'soak and dry' routine rather than frequent watering. Wait until the soil has dried out, then water thoroughly so the roots get a proper soak. In most homes, that works out to roughly every 10–14 days during summer, though it’s always better to check the soil than follow a strict schedule.

If you tend to forget to water, I actually love using the best-selling Iridescent Self-Watering Globes from Amazon as a little backup during warmer months. They help keep moisture levels steadier without leaving the compost soggy, and they’re far nicer to look at than most practical plant accessories.

The leaves are a useful guide, too. Healthy jade leaves should feel firm and plump. If they start looking soft, thin, or slightly wrinkled, the plant is usually trying to tell you something is off – often either too much water or not enough.

3. Give It A Light Prune To Shape Growth

If your jade is starting to look a little uneven or top-heavy, June is a good time to prune a jade plant and tidy up its shape. You don’t need to be heavy-handed with it, either. Simply pinching back a few newer stems just above a leaf node is often enough to encourage fuller, bushier growth.

Over time, this helps create the thicker, more tree-like structure jade plants are loved for. I like using the Felco Snip Pruning Shears from The Home Depot for quick shaping jobs, though the Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Stems from Amazon are great too if you want something smaller and easier to manoeuvre indoors.

While you’re pruning, it’s also worth removing any weak, crowded, or drooping stems. Opening the plant up slightly improves airflow and helps keep the overall shape looking healthier and more even.

4. Feed Lightly For Steady Growth

Jade plants don’t need much feeding, but a little support in June can help them along. When you fertilize a container plant, such as jade, less really is more – a diluted cactus or succulent fertilizer once a month is usually plenty. I’ve had good results with something like TPS Jade Fertilizer from Amazon, which is formulated specifically for succulents and keeps things simple without encouraging overly soft growth.

The key here is restraint. Too much feed can lead to leggy, weak stems that don’t hold their shape well, which is the opposite of what you want. It’s better to think of it as a gentle nudge to support steady growth, rather than anything more forceful.

5. Keep An Eye On What It’s Telling You

One of the easiest ways to care for jade plants well is simply to keep an eye on them. They’re more expressive than you might expect, and they’ll usually show you pretty quickly if something’s not right.

If the light is too low, you’ll often notice stretched stems and wider gaps between the leaves. On the other hand, too much harsh sun can leave the edges looking dry or slightly red and crispy. When conditions are just right, growth stays compact, and the leaves take on a rich, glossy green, sometimes with a subtle red tint in stronger light.

It is important to note that Jade plants don’t love sudden changes, so a gradual move always works better than a sudden change.

June isn’t really about trying to push jade plants into fast growth – it’s more about helping them settle into a steady, balanced rhythm for summer. If you get the light right, water a little more thoughtfully, and give it a light tidy-up where needed, you’re most of the way there.

Follow this advice, and your jade should stay compact, glossy, and nicely structured well into the warmer months.

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While there's no doubt adding some live plants to your home will bring joy, knowing how to arrange them is key to transforming interiors into an indoor garden. Just like curating a garden border, designers say you can layer houseplants for lush greenery that turns your home into an oasis.

It's one technique you can use to style houseplants that specifically focuses on bringing together varying heights, textures, and colors for an indoor botanical spectacle. The best part is you can personalize this for your desired outcome, from creating some screening for a quiet reading nook, to displaying houseplants as artwork.

Here, the experts share their favorite tips for taking your houseplant display to the next level.

1. Start With a Focal Plant

If you're feeling lost with how to layer houseplants, the experts recommend starting with a statement tall indoor plant to act as a focal point.

'Layering houseplants can be done the same way as furniture, really,' says Ann Marie Winkler, designer from Huron Interiors.

'You start with the bigger statement plant, a fiddle leaf fig, an olive tree, whatever has the desired presence, and you build the medium ones around that,' she describes.

Some of the best indoor trees work well for a focal plant, including this Fiddle Leaf Fig from The Sill or this Majesty Palm from Lowe's.

This provides some height and architectural structure for your display. Consider positioning them at the back of the arrangement, or to the sides, ensuring the shorter plants stay visible.

2. Use Plant Stands

Don't underestimate the value of plant stands when layering houseplants. These handy tools can (literally) elevate the smallest houseplants.

'One mistake we often see is people placing plants at the same level. Everything ends up looking like one big mass,' says Adrian Aviles, houseplant expert and owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop.

'Putting plants at different heights usually looks better. You can use plant stands, shelves, and even simple risers to create layers and make the plants feel more natural,' he adds.

The great news is there are so many different plant stands available on the market to choose from.

You can opt for a tiered one, like this large tiered wooden plant stand from Amazon, to hold multiple plants at different levels. Or, use a singular plant stand (like this pretty white one from IKEA) to put your favorite plant on a pedestal.

3. Mix a Range of Leaf Shapes

One of the best things about collecting houseplants is the never-ending shapes and silhouettes to discover. From indoor ferns' feathery foliage, to statement succulents with unique curved shapes.

'Don't stick with all the same type of plant, it reads kind of flat,' says Ann Marie. 'You want different leaf shapes and different sizes for a more collected feel,' she describes.

You can also add in indoor variegated foliage for pops of color. 'Thai Constellation' Monstera (available at The Sill) is a popular choice, with cream-green patterned leaves.

You may also want to explore houseplants with heart-shaped leaves for a playful addition, like this Heartleaf Philodendron from Amazon.

4. Use Vertical Space

Creating a vertical indoor garden is a great way to add another dimension to your houseplant arrangement.

It might be that you opt for the best indoor hanging plants, like this String of Hearts from Lowe's, or houseplants you can mount, like this Staghorn Fern from Amazon.

'Another great option is to add hanging plants from the ceiling or place them on high shelves. This helps make use of the vertical space and allows plants like pothos or philodendrons to trail naturally, creating a fuller and more lush look,' says Natalia de Arteaga, interior designer at Planner 5D.

Using this trick also saves floor space, maximizing how many plants you can display in a single space.

5. Group Plants Based on Needs

It's important not to neglect houseplant needs when curating your dream indoor garden. By pairing plants that have similar needs, regarding lighting, watering, and humidity, it's easier to avoid indoor plant mistakes.

'Plants are much easier to maintain when they have similar light and watering needs. A lush display is much easier to keep looking good when the plants want the same things,' says Adrian.

This includes positioning indoor tropical plants close together to boost humidity for indoor plants, as well as placing cacti that don't require frequent watering close together.

At the same time, there are houseplants to keep away from each other which have widely differing needs and won't work as a complementary pair.

'As a professional interiorscaper, I manage differing water requirements by keeping each plant in its own sub-irrigated liner pot concealed within the larger planter,' says interior plant designer, Shane Pliska.

'This allows me to combine a variety of plants without forcing them to share the same watering schedule,' he explains.

Self-watering planters (like this pack of four green ones on Amazon) are useful for this, or you can invest in an automated irrigation system (like this from Walmart) to take the guesswork out of watering.

What to Shop

If you're keen to explore more inspiration, take a look at our indoor garden ideas. Our list of Feng Shui plants also has lots to discover, with different plants thought to bring positive energy to different rooms in your home.

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I love watching my houseplants have a growth spurt when the summer temperatures arrive, but the likes of pothos require some particular attention to ensure a productive season.

In June, there are a few things to do to care for your pothos correctly, whether you have a golden pothos (like this from The Sill) or a neon pothos. From light pruning, to fertilizing, and even repotting, giving this iconic cascading plant some love this month can boost its growth and help it thrive.

But, you do need to take care to avoid common indoor plant mistakes when doing these tasks. To help you out, alongside insights from a houseplant expert, I've compiled three key things your pothos needs in June.

1. Repot Your Pothos

Now that your pothos is in its active growth season, you can repot it with the reassurance it will respond positively. It's beneficial to repot plants before higher summer temps arrive, to reduce stress, so June is a good time to do it.

You'll know it's time to repot your pothos by looking for a few signs. This includes stunted growth, drooping, and roots poking out of drainage holes, indicating the plant is running out of room to grow.

'You should choose a container that is 1-2" bigger than the previous one, and make sure to use a loose, well-draining potting mix (this houseplant potting mix from Lowe's is a good choice),' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

If your pothos has become pot-bound, you may need to prune houseplant roots. Focus on removing any damaged roots (using these sharp houseplant snips from Amazon), keeping the main rootball intact.

2. Fertilize Your Pothos

In spring and summer, your pothos is using a lot of energy to grow new leaves. That's why it's important to support it with a boost of essential plant nutrients.

'In June, apply a balanced water-soluble liquid fertilizer for foliage plants to boost growth. Do this once a month, following the label instructions, and dilute the fertilizer to half strength. This way, you won’t burn the roots by accident,' Marina advises.

One of the best fertilizers for houseplants like pothos is one with a higher nitrogen plant fertilizer number, which encourages more vegetative growth.

You can also opt for a specific pothos fertilizer, like this one from Amazon.

As Marina notes, it's important not to overfertilize your pothos as this can cause root burn and symptoms like your pothos turning yellow.

3. Give Your Pothos a Trim

While pothos does look beautiful cascading from a shelf or bookshelf, it can get to the point where it's a little too long for your liking. June is an excellent time to prune your pothos to fix this.

'To handle your pothos’ summer growth spurt without causing damage, avoid tearing or snapping the stems by hand,' warns Marina.

'Instead, take a pair of sharp, sterilized pruning shears and trim just above a leaf node,' she describes.

A leaf node is where a leaf stem meets the main vine. Cutting here to trim your pothos will ensure it continues to grow.

This is also a good opportunity to remove any damaged foliage, just take care to follow the one third pruning rule. Removing too much of the plant in one go can stunt growth.

What to Shop

As well as these things your pothos needs in June, make sure to increase watering frequency as the soil dries out more quickly. You can water your houseplants using the bottom watering method to ensure sufficient hydration. I also recommend using this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check your pothos' soil to avoid watering mistakes.

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Spider plants are known for being one of the easiest houseplants to grow, and by June, they’re usually putting on lots of fresh new growth. With longer days, warmer temperatures, and brighter light levels, this is the point in the year when they become noticeably more active.

Whether you’re growing a classic green variety or experimenting with different spider plant types, early summer is a good time to refresh your spider plant care routine. A few small changes now can make a surprising difference to how healthy, full, and vibrant the plant looks later in the season.

Done right, these simple June tasks can encourage lusher foliage, stronger roots, and plenty of new spiderettes. And if your plant is looking a little tired after spring, don’t worry – spider plants tend to bounce back quickly once conditions improve.

1. Move It Somewhere Brighter

Spider plants grow best in bright, indirect light, and June’s longer days naturally give them a boost. If your plant has been sitting in a darker corner over winter, now is a good time to move it somewhere brighter so it can take advantage of the extra daylight.

An east-facing room is usually ideal, though placing the plant a few feet back from a sunny south-facing window can work well too. The main thing to avoid is strong afternoon sun directly hitting the leaves, as this can scorch the foliage and leave behind dry brown patches.

If your home doesn’t get much natural light, a simple grow light can make a noticeable difference. Something like the Clip Plant Growing Lamp from Amazon is an easy way to give spider plants the bright conditions they need, especially in darker rooms or shaded apartments.

2. Water More Consistently

One of the biggest changes in June is how quickly houseplants start to dry out. A spider plant that only needed occasional watering in spring may suddenly need attention every few days once temperatures rise.

If you’re unsure when to water a spider plant, the best approach is to check the soil rather than sticking to a strict schedule. Water once the top inch of compost feels dry to the touch. During active growth, spider plants prefer lightly moist soil, but they still don’t cope well with sitting in waterlogged compost for long periods.

If you regularly notice brown leaf tips, the water itself could be contributing to the problem. Spider plants can be sensitive to the fluoride and mineral salts often found in tap water, so filtered water or collected rainwater is usually a gentler option if you have access to it.

I use the Amber Glass Spray Bottles from Amazon for all my indoor plants, as they make it much easier to lightly mist foliage and keep watering routines simple without leaving plastic bottles scattered around the house.

3. Feed for Faster Growth

June is the perfect time to start feeding spider plants more regularly, especially as growth begins to speed up. A balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer applied every couple of weeks will support healthy leaf growth and help the plant develop stronger roots through summer.

A standard indoor plant feed diluted to half strength is usually more than enough. Products like Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for All Plants or the Food Spikes from The Home Depot are both easy options for keeping indoor plants well-fed through the growing season.

Consistent feeding during the active growing season helps plants stay full, vibrant, and healthy, and it can also encourage more spiderettes later in summer. If your spider plant is dying back, looking pale, or producing weak, limp growth, a lack of nutrients could be part of the problem. Feeding little and often through June and July can make a noticeable difference to the plant’s overall health and recovery.

4. Trim Away Damaged Foliage

Even healthy spider plants can end up with a few crispy tips or tired-looking leaves by early summer, especially after a busy spring growing season. Giving the plant a quick tidy-up now can instantly make it look fresher and healthier.

Use a pair of clean scissors to trim away the brown ends, following the leaf's natural point so the cuts blend in more naturally. The Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Plants from Amazon work particularly well for this, as the narrow blades make it easier to trim damaged foliage neatly without snagging healthy leaves. You can also remove any yellowing or limp growth from around the base of the plant.

5. Repot if Roots Are Crowded

Spider plants don’t usually mind being slightly root-bound, but eventually crowded roots can start slowing growth and putting stress on the plant. If you notice roots poking through the drainage holes or pushing the plant upward out of its pot, it’s probably time to repot.

June is one of the best times to do this because the plant is actively growing and tends to recover quickly. Choose a container that’s only slightly larger than the current pot and use a free-draining houseplant compost mix to avoid overly wet soil, which can sometimes lead to houseplant root rot. In many cases, a freshly repotted spider plant responds with a noticeable burst of healthy new growth within a few weeks.

6. Encourage More Spiderettes

For many people, the best part of growing a spider plant is watching the baby plants, or spiderettes, spill over the sides of the pot. Once a healthy plant starts producing them, growth can feel surprisingly fast through summer.

Spiderettes usually appear when the plant is mature, well cared for, and getting enough bright, indirect light. Consistent watering, regular feeding, and stable growing conditions all help encourage them to form, especially during the warmer months.

If you want to propagate a spider plant, these baby offshoots make it incredibly easy. You can leave them attached to create a fuller, trailing display or root them separately in water or compost to grow entirely new plants. They’re one of the simplest houseplant cuttings to propagate, which is part of the reason spider plants remain so popular indoors.

Shop Spider Plant Essentials

Spider plants are famously easygoing. They are usually the plant I recommend to beginner houseplant growers. However, a little extra attention in June can make a noticeable difference by midsummer. Better light, more consistent watering, regular feeding, and the occasional trim all help encourage healthier, stronger growth during the busiest part of the growing season.

Put in the effort now, and you’ll usually be rewarded with fuller foliage, greener leaves, and plenty of healthy spiderettes through the rest of summer. Even plants that looked slightly tired earlier in the year often respond quickly once conditions improve.

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The Opening Note

This week on The Very British Edit, I’m talking about something that has quietly become one of my biggest home obsessions over the past year – indoor plant styling. While I usually spend this space discussing interiors, decorating ideas and seasonal updates, I’ve come to realise that the best indoor plants deserve a place in that conversation too.

I've always liked having a few plants around the house, but somewhere along the way a couple of pots turned into a proper collection. What started with a peace lily on a side table has gradually evolved into Boston ferns, spider plants, ZZ plants, a Christmas cactus and several statement plants dotted throughout my home. Looking around now, I can't imagine my spaces without them.

What I love most is the way plants make a room feel alive. You can have all the right furniture, lighting and accessories, but there's something about a touch of greenery that softens a space and makes it feel more inviting. It's often the final layer that turns a room from looking styled to feeling like home.

Bringing the outdoors in is one of the oldest decorating tricks there is, and it's never been easier. A quick trip to the local garden center can transform a neglected corner, empty shelf or uninspiring window ledge. Even if you're not ready for a collection of houseplants, a vase of seasonal flowers can have much the same effect.

Over the past year, I've learned that styling plants is every bit as important as choosing them. A large monstera works brilliantly as a focal point, while trailing spider plants soften shelves and bookcases. Boston ferns add movement and texture, and even a small pot of indoor herbs on a kitchen windowsill brings color, fragrance and a little everyday pleasure.

One of the reasons plants work so well in interiors is that they add qualities that are difficult to achieve any other way. Alongside color and texture, they introduce shape, movement and an organic softness that helps balance harder surfaces and straight lines. They create layers and make spaces feel more considered without looking overly styled.

There may even be benefits beyond aesthetics. NASA famously studied the air-filtering properties of certain houseplants, highlighting varieties such as English ivy, spider plants and peace lilies for their ability to absorb some airborne pollutants while releasing oxygen. While experts point out that you'd need a considerable number of air-cleaning indoor plants to improve air quality, there's still something pleasing about surrounding yourself with living greenery. At the very least, it will help you to feel happier at home.

The containers we choose are just as important as the plants themselves. Lately, I've found myself drawn to beautiful ceramic planters, woven baskets, sculptural stands and hanging planters that allow greenery to become part of the overall design scheme. The right planter can elevate even the simplest plant, turning it into a decorative feature in much the same way a lamp or piece of artwork might. A plant isn't simply another object in a room; it becomes part of the home itself.

The older I get, the more I appreciate these quieter design details. Houseplants have become one of the easiest ways to make a home feel welcoming, relaxed and thoughtfully put together. They don't just fill empty corners or add a splash of green. They bring character, texture and a sense of life that few other decorating elements can match.

In this shopping edit, I'll be sharing some of the pieces I've been drawn to lately, from elegant planters and plant stands to decorative accessories that help showcase greenery at its best. Whether you're building a collection of statement plants or simply introducing a little more nature into your home, there really is no better time of year to do it.

The Edit: Indoor Plant Styling

In the Queue

Next week on The Very British Edit, I'm talking about one of my favorite summer decorating projects: decorating and designing an outdoor living room that feels just as welcoming as any room inside the house.

Now that I've fully embraced houseplants as part of my decorating style, taking that idea outdoors feels like a natural progression. Once you start bringing greenery into your interiors, you begin to look at your indoor-outdoor spaces differently. At least, I did. I found myself wanting my patio, terrace, and garden seating areas to feel less like separate spaces and more like an extension of the house.

The more I decorate, the more I'm convinced that nature provides the best design inspiration. Whether I'm choosing paint colors, fabrics, or accessories, I always seem to gravitate toward shades that already exist outdoors. Soft greens, sandy beiges, weathered wood tones, terracotta, stone grays, and muted blues never go out of style because they're familiar, calming, and easy to live with. They're also the perfect foundation for three-season rooms, which we often only use during the warmer weather.

The same goes for materials. If you've read my recent piece on houseplants, you'll know how much I love introducing natural textures into a room. Outdoors, those materials become even more important. Woven rattan, wicker, seagrass, jute, natural wood, linen, and stone all help create warmth and character while making a space feel connected to its surroundings. I've also come to appreciate the role of curtains and blinds in a sunroom or indoor-outdoor space. Lightweight linen drapes or woven shades help soften harsh sunlight, keep the room cooler on warm days, and add another layer of texture without taking away from the view.

I've also become increasingly drawn to sunrooms and outdoor living rooms that can be enjoyed for much more than just a few weeks of the year. Done well, a sunroom can become one of the hardest-working spaces in a home – a place to read, entertain, work, or simply relax with a cup of coffee or, in my case, a favorite matcha tea.

What I'm increasingly drawn to are spaces that blur the line between indoors and out. The most successful ones don't feel overly styled or staged. They feel lived in. They invite you to sit down, linger a little longer, and make the most of the warmer months. For me, that's always the goal. I want outdoor spaces to feel every bit as comfortable and considered as the rooms inside my home.

In next week's shopping edit, I'll be sharing some of the pieces I'm currently eyeing, from comfortable seating and woven accents to portable lighting, outdoor rugs, and decorative accessories that help create that indoor-outdoor feel. Because if houseplants have taught me anything, it's that our homes are at their best when we find ways to connect them more closely to the natural world around us.

The Very British Edit is a shoppable guide to beautiful living with a distinctly British twist. From heritage patterns to timeless decor inspirations, each edition blends personal insight, design expertise, and a love of craftsmanship. It is stylish, trustworthy, and endlessly inspiring.

I've had my Monstera deliciosa for four years now and it stands at 4ft tall, around double the height it was when I first got it. I've been able to encourage strong and robust growth by providing the right seasonal care, and when it comes to what to do with a monstera in June, there are a handful of tasks to tick off.

Of course, monstera care is important to maintain year-round. But in June, as summer temperatures start to settle in, monsteras need more water, a boost of fertilizer, and some support (I like to use these Amazon moss poles) as they begin to flop from new growth. Failing to do these things can result in drooping and even the gradual decline of your plant.

To help you keep your statement houseplant in fit condition this summer, I've pulled together the top three things to do with your monstera this month. (And just in case you're in the market for a new one, this monstera from Fast Growing Trees is incredible value and is discounted right now.)

1. Water More Regularly

Hotter temperatures mean your monstera is drying out much more quickly than in spring. That's why you need to increase watering frequency this month to keep it sufficiently hydrated.

I never water my houseplants without first checking the soil with my soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon and it's proven very reliable).

While monsteras can cope with some drought (especially as they become more mature), they much prefer consistent moisture levels. As soon as my moisture meter indicates the top couple of inches of soil are dry, I give my monstera a top up.

'We water every week by mid-June,' says Anup Mutalik, founder of Houseplants Nook.

'But, you have to be very careful though, as overwatering is the number one way to kill a plant. You should check the soil a couple of times a week and water accordingly. Each house has different temperature, humidity, and light placement, which impacts how quickly the soil dries out,' he explains.

Leaving your monstera in prolonged drought can result in heat stress, including yellow monstera leaves and drooping.

2. Install a Plant Support

You've likely spotted some new growth on your monstera over the last few months, as it's entered its active growth season. As climbers, these tropical beauties needs some support as they grow taller.

It's important to start training a monstera early on if you want to achieve a neat, upright look. But, don't worry, it is possible to train an overgrown monstera too.

I personally like to use moss or coco poles (like these from BWH Plant Co.) to support my monstera. It should be placed on the 'spine' or main, thickest stem of the plant, with branching stems gently tied in.

The beauty of a moss pole is its bendable for a bespoke fit to the shape of your plant and when wet it provides some humidity and moisture.

You can also use these charming houseplant trellises from IKEA, especially if you have a smaller monstera variety, like the Monstera adansonii (which is also available at IKEA).

It's best to put a plant support in place now before the warmer temps encourage a growth spurt. This will prevent top-heavy stems flopping over and snapping, as well as improving light exposure to all leaves to maintain and encourage monstera split leaves, or 'fenestrations.'

3. Give It a Boost of Fertilizer

If you haven't done so already, June is a good time to start fertilizing your monstera.

When putting on so much new growth, these plants can become tired and nutrients in the soil can deplete. That's why I like to use a monstera-specific liquid fertilizer (like this from Amazon) to provide a boost of essential plant nutrients during spring and summer.

'We fertilize every 3-4 weeks through June and July with a balanced liquid fertilizer at half strength,' says Anup.

'Monsteras are sensitive to fertilizer burn, and a full-strength dose in summer heat on a plant that's pushing out new growth aggressively can damage the leaves you're trying to grow,' he notes.

It would be a fertilizing mistake to overfeed your monstera during hotter temps, as Anup notes. It can leave you with crispy brown tips on your monstera leaves, and it may damage roots so severely it kills off the plant.

You can also opt for a granular slow-release houseplant fertilizer (like this from Amazon) which provides a more gradual feed over several weeks. This is much less intense than a liquid feed and reduces the risk of root burn.

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Spring and summer is also an optimal time to propagate your monstera. You can do this either by diving clumps or by taking stem cuttings and popping them in water. Always use clean, sharp tools for this, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon.

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Among the luscious foliage spilling out of the 2026 RHS Chelsea Flower Show Houseplant Studios, there's one small succulent that instantly charms. With beautiful pink and green-striped variegation, the 'Pink Witch' aeonium is the conversation-starting plant I've been missing.

It's the jewel in the crown in An Ode to Endurance (which won Best Houseplant Studio), where it sits in a quiet corner, impressing with bubblegum-pink rosettes. As part of the tree houseleek genus, it's a surprisingly easy indoor succulent to care for. Bright light is essential to maintain its vivid hues, but it doesn't require lots of watering or attention, ideal for novices.

The good news is, although highly sought-after as a collectible houseplant, this succulent is widely available (like this 'Pink Witch' aeonium on Etsy), so you can get the RHS Chelsea Flower Show look in your indoor garden.

A Vibrant, Low-Effort Succulent

'Pink Witch' aeonium may be one of the smaller species found in Conservatory Archives' An Ode to Endurance, which also houses impressive towering cacti, but it demands attention.

It's a modern tree houseleek hybrid that originated in Asia and hit the market in 2020.

'With dense rosettes of fleshy leaves, atop slender woody stems, members of the aeonium genus are easy to spot. The genus is small, with around 35 different succulent species, but cultivars and varieties exist in great numbers,' says Natalia Drezek, one of the designers on the studio.

'Aeonium ‘Pink Witch’ produces bold bubblegum-pink leaves, with a hint of green and white across the centre. The colour of the leaves can change depending on sun exposure,' she adds.

As they mature, these aeoniums develop trunk-like stems, making them statement succulents through each stage of growth. Though, they typically only reach 12-18" in height, remaining the perfect size for tabletop displays.

Take a look at this mature 'Pink Witch' aeonium on Etsy with multiple trunks, for example – there's no doubt it would bring some architectural interest to any houseplant collection.

As a young plant, it's compact and slow-growing, ideal for adding to succulent arrangements or you can style them on their own, filling gaps on shelves and coffee tables. You can find a single 'Pink Witch' aeonium on Amazon.

They readily branch out and make offshoots, which you can either cut off (using these Fiskars gardening snips from Amazon) and pot up to propagate your succulent, or leave them attached for an impactful cluster of aeoniums to display (like this 'Pink Witch' cluster plant from Etsy).

How to Grow 'Pink Witch' Aeonium

The bottom line of caring for 'Pink Witch' aeonium is following succulent care and keeping in mind how to maintain variegated foliage.

Something to note is that this unusual houseplant's dormancy period is actually in summer, where it actively grows through milder fall, winter, and spring months. This is to conserve energy during hot conditions, as tree houseleeks are primarily endemic to the subtropical Canary Islands.

With all of this in mind, you can successfully grow 'Pink Witch' aeonium as a houseplant by following these tips:

• Soil: When it comes to the best soil for succulents, you need to consider their native habitat. 'Pink Witch' aeonium is not a desert succulent, so it needs a growing medium that retains slightly more moisture. You also want it to be well-draining to ensure its shallow roots don't sit in excessive moisture and experience houseplant root rot. Something like a 50/50 mix of this Miracle-Gro succulent potting mix from Lowe's with a regular houseplant potting mix is a good blend.
• Position: While actively growing, you should provide your 'Pink Witch' aeonium with bright light. 'A spot with plenty of access to direct sun is crucial, ideally a south-facing window, and they enjoy being placed outside for the warm summer months,' says Natalia. This will bring out the most vibrant pinks and greens that make this plant so sought-after. Don't fret if 'Pink Witch' drops some leaves during summer, however, as this is typical during dormancy.
• Water: Just like watering other succulents, these beauties store moisture in their fleshy leaves. This means you can allow its soil to dry out entirely between watering. In fact, it's often a preferred method to bottom water and even soak succulents to provide adequate – but not excessive – moisture. The leaves will provide a hint if the plant is dehydrated by going wrinkly. If needed, you can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to monitor water levels more easily.
• Temperature: Aeoniums are found in coastal regions, coping with temperatures as low as 41°F. But, for healthy and strong growth, 'Pink Witch' thrives in 65-75°F. It's not frost-tolerant, so if you are growing it outdoors in USDA zones 9-11, make sure move it indoors for winter.
• Feeding: While dormant, you should avoid fertilizing your 'Pink Witch' aeonium. But, during its active growth season it can benefit from a succulent fertilizer (like this available from Walmart) once a month. This can boost growth by replenishing essential plant nutrients.

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This is one of the coolest pink houseplants I've ever seen. It has such versatile use, for example you could add it into a succulent terrarium. Our guide to succulent styling ideas has more tips and tricks to turn these charming plants into a botanic spectacle in your home.

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Few things are more disappointing than expecting a lot of new spring growth in your indoor garden, only to be greeted by yellowing leaves and drooping stems. There's one common cause of this problem that is often overlooked: root-bound houseplants.

Root-bound is the term used to describe when plants in pots have run out of room for their roots, also referred to as pot-bound. The roots essentially don't have any more room or soil to grow in and start to wrap around each other. It's often met with symptoms like dying foliage, stunted growth, and hydrophobic soil. While there are some houseplants that like being pot-bound, the majority need to be rehomed into a larger planter. Failing to detect the issue and repot them can even lead to plant death.

Spring is a great time to inspect your houseplants and identify any that are root-bound and need repotting. As the active growing season begins, repotting gives plants the space they need to thrive. Here, with insights from a houseplant expert, I explain how to spot root-bound houseplants and what to do to fix them.

How to Identify Root-Bound Houseplants

'A plant is root-bound when its roots have filled the pot and start circling tightly, leaving very little room for fresh soil,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

It's common for root-bound houseplants to have roots poking out of the planter's drainage holes as they desperately look for more space. Other symptoms include yellowing foliage, caused by overcrowded roots being unable to absorb water and nutrients sufficiently.

'Common signs are wilting soon after watering, water running straight through the pot, slow growth, smaller leaves, and the plant drying out much faster than it used to,' Rosalin describes.

Likewise, you may find that your houseplant soil has become hydrophobic, i.e., it repels water, leaving it pooling on the surface and not soaking in.

'The root ball may also push the plant upward or cause plastic pots to bulge,' she adds.

The best way to confirm if your houseplant is root-bound is by carefully removing it from its pot and observing the roots. You'll see if they are lacking room and wrapping around the root ball, as Rosalin describes.

How to Fix Root-Bound Houseplants

Don't fret if you do find root-bound houseplants among your collection; it's not too late to save them. 'Most of the time, the fix is a gentle repot,' says Rosalin.

You may want to prune houseplant roots first to remove any damaged plant matter.

'Slide the plant out, loosen the outer roots, and if it’s very tight, trim a small amount of the circling root layer,' describes Rosalin.

You should use sharp houseplant pruning snips (like these from Amazon) to remove any rotting, mushy, or broken roots. Take care not to remove more than this, as you want to keep as much of the root system intact as you can.

Likewise, remove discolored foliage from the plant, as this won't recover. Make sure to follow the one-third pruning rule to not cause the plant further stress and stunt growth.

'Repot into a pot just one size up with fresh, well-draining houseplant potting mix (like this from Lowe's). Avoid jumping to a much larger pot, since that can hold too much moisture and create new issues,' Rosalin says.

For example, if your plant was in an 8-inch pot, upgrade to a 10-inch planter (like this terracotta one from Amazon).

Before repotting, use your hands to gently squeeze and tease the roots apart so they're much more loose and able to move.

'After repotting, water thoroughly, let it drain, and keep the plant in bright indirect light while it recovers,' she advises.

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FAQs

How Often Should I Repot My Houseplants?

How often you repot your houseplants depends on their specific needs. The likes of jade plants and snake plants like to be slightly pot-bound, for example. However, the majority of houseplants benefit from being repotted every couple of years, or they may show symptoms like yellowing foliage. It's best to research the specific needs of your houseplants to determine when to repot them.

There's lots to do on the spring houseplant care checklist over the coming weeks, so make sure to have your plant care kit to hand and to read up on indoor plant mistakes.

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They might look unique, but snake plants are one of the easiest houseplants to care for – although they require a little more upkeep at this time of year. By May, your snake plant has entered its active growth phase, so you'll want to move it to a bright spot, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer, and water it sufficiently during warm spells.

Snake plants are enduringly popular among houseplant enthusiasts and beginner gardeners alike; they really do make a magnificent addition to your collection without asking for too much in return. (You can pick up a set of two live snake plants from Walmart.)

Below, our Gardens Content Editor and resident houseplant expert, Tenielle Jordison, shares her top tips on caring for a snake plant in May.

1. Perfect Your Watering Schedule

Now is the time when many gardeners are picking up their watering cans and giving their plants a drink as temperatures rise – but snake plants require a carefully balanced watering schedule.

'As your snake plant shows signs of new growth in May, it can be tempting to drastically increase watering – but keep in mind that these houseplants are actually succulents and they store water in their fleshy stems,' says Tenielle.

With this in mind, watering your snake plant isn't a daily task; you'll only need to water it once the soil dries out.

'Snake plants can be left to dry out entirely between watering,' confirms Tenielle. 'However, warmer temperatures and active growth mean that the soil will dry out much more quickly than when your snake plant was dormant in winter, so you may need to tend to it more frequently than you're used to.'

The best plan of action? Use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart.

'It's best to check a couple of times a week during particularly warm spells,' Tenielle advises.

2. Prioritize Sunlight

During its active growth period, your snake plant will need all the support it can get – so if you haven't already, you'll want to move it to a sunny spot to help it photosynthesize.

'Snake plants aren’t fast growers, but you can take advantage of the sunlight and warmer temperatures in spring to encourage more foliage,' says Tenielle. 'Move your snake plant to a brighter position – though it shouldn’t be in direct sun, as this can cause common snake plant problems like leaf scorch.'

3. Don't Forget to Clean the Leaves

In the spirit of spring cleaning, now is the perfect time to tend to the leaves of your snake plant. Careful cleaning will prevent bug infestations and ensure your plant remains healthy through spring and into summer, when you should see more foliage appear.

'I always clean my houseplants in spring,' says Tenielle. 'It sounds a little strange at first, but take a closer look at your snake plant and you might find a layer of dust on its large sword-shaped leaves.'

Removing dust and dirt is key to encouraging healthy growth; you can use microfiber cloths (like this set from Amazon) or houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Walmart). You can even invest in a leaf-cleaning brush, which you can also pick up at Amazon.

'It’s important to clean your snake plant and remove debris so its pores don’t become blocked, which inhibits essential plant processes like photosynthesis,' says Tenielle. 'Cleaning also prevents the risk of bug infestations, as pests become more active in spring.'

4. Repot if Necessary

As low-maintenance indoor plants, snake plants don't need to be repotted often, but they will need a helping hand if their growth becomes restricted.

'Although snake plants like to be slightly pot-bound, overcrowded roots can eventually cause foliage to discolor and temporarily stunt growth,' explains Tenielle. 'Roots sticking out of drainage holes is another sign your plant needs repotting.'

After performing a quick check on your plant's roots and soil, you might need to transfer it to a larger container.

'May is an excellent time to rehome your snake plant,' says Tenielle. 'I recommend using a succulent potting mix when repotting your snake plant, as this will be well-draining and packed with the nutrients it needs.'

If you need to stock up, you can make your own succulent potting mix, or pick up succulent and cactus soil from Perfect Plants Nursery.

5. Start to Fertilize

Snake plants shouldn't be fertilized all year round, but May is a brilliant time to start feeding them; in fact, it's a crucial way to support their growth.

'I recommend starting to apply a balanced liquid fertilizer in spring,' says Tenielle. 'Take care not to over-fertilize, as this can cause stress and discolor the foliage, but you can apply once a month to give your snake plant a boost of essential plant nutrients. '

Try something like this all-purpose indoor plant food from Amazon and dilute it to half-strength before applying.

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In need of more advice? Check out our guide to pruning a snake plant, and read up on what to do if your snake plant is drooping.

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As the resident of a city apartment with limited outdoor space, my houseplant collection is my pride and joy: it's what helps me channel my love for gardening and fill my home with greenery. It's only natural, then, that propagating plants is one of my favorite tasks – and I firmly believe that a well-equipped propagation station is crucial.

Any houseplant enthusiast will be thrilled by the prospect of taking cuttings and watching new plants come to life. To guarantee success, however, you really do need the right tools, and I would recommend IKEA's Vattenkrasse propagation set to anyone.

At just $19.99, this top-rated set features five glass containers and a sleek, off-white tray. It's a brilliant way to propagate your houseplants without taking up too much space, though it must be said: this particular set is so stylish that you'll want to show it off.

Why You Need a Propagation Station

When I started my houseplant collection, my indoor gardening toolkit consisted of a handful of planters and a watering can. (IKEA's Vattenkrasse watering can, to be exact – and it's still one of my best purchases.)

However, it didn't take long for me to expand my collection, and I soon became desperate for a dedicated propagation spot. Although every inch of space is precious in my tiny apartment, a set like this one was the key to transforming my indoor garden without any clutter.

While indoor growing systems are designed with practicality in mind, helping you grow houseplants from cuttings, my favorite options are those that incorporate a touch of elegance.

In fact, the same can be said for the rest of my setup: from striking grow poles (like We the Wild's steel grow poles from Target) and colorful self-watering globes (like this one from Etsy), I love to show off my houseplant tools, and my propagation station is no exception.

I'll admit that I was initially tempted by Amazon's magnetic fridge vases – which are a brilliant space-saving hack – but the sophisticated, Scandi-style look of IKEA's propagation set won me over.

Part plant laboratory, part home decor piece, it really makes a statement on my windowsill, and plenty of guests have been impressed.

The set even has the seal of approval from Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor and resident houseplant expert at Homes & Gardens.

'This IKEA propagation set has everything you need to successfully root some houseplant cuttings,' she confirms. 'I love the fact the glass vessels are at different heights, so it doubles as a decorative arrangement when filled with cuttings.'

There is, however, a notable benefit to glass vessels like these: they make it much easier to monitor the progress of your cuttings.

'This set is ideal for water propagation, as the vessels are clear so you can observe root growth,' explains Tenielle. 'Don't forget to refresh the water regularly to keep it clean for healthy cuttings.'

Why Shoppers Love IKEA's Propagation Set

A quick look online proves that IKEA's propagation set has plenty of fans, with no fewer than 37 five-star reviews.

'I needed this but didn't know where to get one,' says one shopper. 'And then I saw this and it's perfect! I'm propagating lavender and this is a beautiful way to do it.'

'So well made,' writes another shopper. 'Love how the light reflects off the white tray. Perfect for small cuttings.'

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For propagation advice, check out our tips on how to speed up houseplant propagation, and read up on the most common houseplant propagation mistakes (and how to avoid them).

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Jade plants are one of the most popular houseplants you can find: they're elegant, easy to care for, and they're even believed to bring good fortune. In May, your jade plant is in its active growth period, so you'll need to water it more regularly, prune its leaves, and consider repotting.

As summer approaches, you'll also want to ensure that your jade plant receives plenty of bright, indirect sunlight to help it photosynthesize. Now is also a brilliant time to propagate it using leaf cuttings.

Knowing how to care for a jade plant is impressively straightforward, but tasks like these really are vital to help yours thrive in May. And if you haven't yet added one to your collection, you can pick up a jade plant from Lively Root.

1. Start Watering More Frequently

'Although jade plants are slow-growing, you’ll notice some new growth in May,' says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'For this reason, it’s important to increase watering.'

Even the most low-maintenance indoor plants get thirstier at this time of year, and jade plants will need more support as they continue to grow.

'Jade plants require more water in warmer temperatures, especially as they use more energy during their active growth period,' explains Tenielle.

Jade plants are some of the best indoor succulents you can choose, and they don't require constant attention – but you'll need to water your jade plant once the soil dries out, which happens more frequently in spring and summer.

'As succulents, jade plants don’t need consistent watering, since they store water in their fleshy leaves,' says Tenielle. 'You can allow the soil to dry out entirely between watering, but be aware it will dry out much more quickly than in winter.'

To help you identify exactly when your jade plant needs watering, you can use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart.

2. Prioritize a Sunny Location

Jade plants thrive in sunny conditions, so if you haven't already, now is the time to move yours into a bright spot.

'These plants love around 4-6 hours of daily direct sun,' says Tenielle. 'However, be aware that too much exposure can cause sunburn, turning jade plants red as a stress response.'

To prevent scorching, you can consider investing in sheer curtains (like these from Wayfair), which will help to diffuse the sunlight.

If you notice any severely scorched leaves, it's best to carefully remove them – you can use sharp pruning snips, like this pair from Amazon.

3. Prune Your Jade Plant

Pruning a jade plant isn't restricted to the removal of damaged leaves: in fact, May is the perfect time to give yours a trim to help it thrive in the coming months.

'If you want to encourage bushier growth, use your houseplant snips to remove leggy or damaged stems,' advises Tenielle.

'This will redirect the plant’s energy into new growth, resulting in more branches and ultimately giving your jade plant a fuller look.'

4. Start to Propagate

If you're keen to build up your houseplant collection, there's no better time to propagate your jade plant.

'You can use leaf cuttings from a jade plant to propagate this month, just as you would propagate other succulents,' says Tenielle. 'Let the cuttings form a callus over a couple of days. (This is a protective layer to stop rotting.) You can then pop them in a well-draining potting mix.'

It doesn't take long to make your own succulent potting mix, but if you're short on time, you can pick up succulent and cactus soil from Perfect Plants Nursery.

Once your cuttings have been planted, bright light and moisture are both crucial to encouraging healthy growth.

'Keep them consistently moist and place them in a bright spot to encourage rooting,' says Tenielle. 'This requires some patience, as it can take 3-6 weeks for roots to form.'

5. Consider Repotting

It can be difficult to know how often to repot houseplants, but jade plants are far more forgiving than many other species: you can leave them to grow in the same pot for a while, although you'll need to repot them every few years.

'Jade plants actually like to be slightly pot-bound – it keeps them stable and lowers the risk of overwatering,' explains Tenielle. 'This means they can live in the same pot for many years.'

However, if you notice your jade plant becoming unstable or top-heavy, repotting is the solution.

'These plants should be rehomed if they start to tip over,' advises Tenielle. 'You should upgrade to the next size pot and use a succulent potting mix to ensure they have a well-draining, nutrient-rich growing medium.'

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If you're intrigued about the symbolic benefits of a jade plant, you can find out exactly where to place your jade plant according to Feng Shui. And if you're keen to invest in more hanging plants, take a look at our guide to caring for a trailing jade plant.

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What's better than a low-maintenance houseplant with a striking (and undeniably retro) look? The spider plant is an eternal favorite, but it does require a little more attention right now. In May, you'll want to soak the soil, clean the foliage, and prune off any dead leaves to really supercharge growth.

As spring continues, spider plants have now entered their active growth period, which means that maintenance is crucial. Your spider plant will be notably thirstier this month, and it will also need adequate light and humidity to keep thriving.

Spider plant care isn't a strenuous job, but it's worth checking off these essential tasks to ensure that yours enjoys strong growth this spring and summer. (And if you want to add one to your collection, you can pick up a spider plant from Fast Growing Trees.

1. Soak the Soil

'I always recommend spider plants to beginners because they're so easy to care for,' says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'They’re forgiving of neglect and usually bounce back with a bit of water. However, it’s not uncommon for your spider plant’s foliage to get a little crisp in May – and if this is the case, you'll want to give it a good soaking.'

Dry, brown foliage is a tell-tale sign of dehydration, and your spider plant will definitely thank you after a long drink.

'I like to take mine out of its pot and let it sit in the sink for about 20 minutes,' says Tenielle. 'This thoroughly moistens the soil and by the time I check on it, it’s already perked back up.'

Even if you don't spot any poorly leaves, now is the time to start watering your spider plant more regularly. It's the best way to support the plant during its growth season, and it will keep its foliage looking vibrant and glossy.

'If you haven’t already, you should increase watering frequency this month,' confirms Tenielle. 'Your spider plant is now actively growing, and light and temperatures are higher, so it’s definitely thirstier.'

The secret to perfecting your watering schedule? A soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart.

'Use your moisture meter to check when the top couple of inches have dried out,' says Tenielle. 'This is the point at which you'll need to water it again.'

2. Check For Pests

Spring doesn't just mean faster growth for your beloved plants – it also means that a flurry of common houseplant pests might start to appear.

'Houseplant pests emerge from winter dormancy in spring and can multiply fast,' explains Tenielle. 'Now is the time to monitor your spider plant for the likes of spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, and fungus gnats.'

You can clean houseplant leaves using microfiber cloths like these ones from Amazon, or plant dusting gloves, also from Amazon.

Simply wipe down the leaves to remove dust; if you find clusters of insects, you can also use homemade bug spray or neem oil spray (which you can pick up at Walmart).

'I like to clean my spider plant’s foliage regularly to deter pests,' says Tenielle. 'It also helps me spot them quickly and get rid of them before the issue becomes too severe or spreads to my other houseplants.'

3. Remove Fading Leaves

While you're examining your spider plant's foliage and checking for pests, you'll also want to identify any fading leaves and snip them off.

'Spider plants need minimal pruning, but any yellow or brown leaves should be removed in spring,' advises Tenielle. 'The damage can be caused by a wide range of things, including the fluctuating temperatures over late winter and early spring, too much or too little water, and too much sunlight.'

With this in mind, it's worth moving your spider plant if it's in either a gloomy or an overly bright spot – and making sure to keep watering regularly to ensure healthy leaves.

'Brown or yellow leaves won’t turn green again, so you can simply remove them at the base of the plant with clean, sharp pruning snips,' says Tenielle. (Reliable pruning tools are key; try something like the Fiskars indoor pruning shears, which you'll find at Target.)

'Not only will light pruning improve your plant's appearance, but it will also help redirect the its energy into putting on new growth,' says Tenielle.

4. Boost Humidity Levels

Temperatures might be climbing as we approach summer, but spider plants love humidity – and May is the perfect time to give them a boost. (Adequate humidity is, in fact, the key to avoiding those yellow or brown leaves.)

'Thanks to their native habitat of tropical regions in southern and western Africa, spider plants enjoy around 50-60 percent humidity,' explains Tenielle. 'Improving your plant’s humidity levels will help you avoid leaf discoloration and promote stronger growth.'

To create optimal conditions, Tenielle recommends using a pebble humidity tray, like this one from Amazon.

'I simply pop my spider plant on a pebble tray for plants,' she says. 'However, you can also place a humidifier nearby; even misting your spider plant regularly will help.'

5. Propagate the Offshoots

One of the best parts about growing a low-maintenance indoor plant is being able to propagate it and add to your collection – and spider plants regularly produce baby plants, or 'spiderettes', which can be easily repotted.

'If you’ve been growing your spider plant for a few years, spring is when you might find babies growing on long stems known as runners,' says Tenielle.

'May is a great time to take houseplant snips, cut the offshoots (also called spiderettes) off the runners, and pop each one into its own pot with a well-draining potting mix.' (Something like the Miracle-Gro indoor potting mix is ideal; you can stock up at The Home Depot.)

Once your spiderettes are all settled in their own pots, they will start to grow faster than you might expect.

'Keep the pots in a bright, warm spot, and they should root pretty quickly, providing you with a brand new plant,' says Tenielle. 'Alternatively, you can leave the offshoots to grow on the parent plant; this will eventually transform it into a hanging spider plant.'

Want to make your spider plant look even more spectacular this spring? We asked experts how to make spider plants bushier – and how to get a spider plant to flower.

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Spring is an important time for us houseplant owners. It's when all of our beloved indoor plants start putting their energy towards new growth. But, without a little routine maintenance and TLC, they won't get too far. That's why I prune houseplants in spring every year – and it always makes my plants fuller.

Pruning is an essential part of spring houseplant care. While it might seem scary to take sharp pruning shears (like these from Amazon) to your houseplants, removing damaged plant material and making strategic cuts can actually give them a boost and encourage bushier growth.

However, pruning houseplants in spring does require a careful approach. Making cuts in the wrong spot or removing too much of the plant can have the opposite effect, stunting growth and leading to their gradual decline. So, with some insights from plant experts, I've compiled everything you need to know to do it correctly.

Why Prune Houseplants in Spring?

'Pruning triggers the plant to push new growth from dormant nodes, and in spring the plant already has the rising light levels and warming temperatures conducive for this sort of response,' says Anup Mutalik, founder of Houseplants Nook.

In other words, pruning triggers houseplants to form new stems and leaves. This is especially true when you remove unproductive limbs, like brown stems and foliage, that no longer perform plant processes and drain the plant's energy.

Spring is a good time to do this because, as Anup notes, it's the time when temperature and light conditions are ideal. This means you can take advantage of the energy the houseplants are using this season to encourage abundant growth.

'When we prune in winter the cuts just sit there because plants don't have the energy needed to spur new growth,' says Anup. 'Spring pruning works because you're making a demand of the plant at exactly the moment it has the resources to meet it,' he explains.

It's also a good opportunity to shape your houseplant. For example by pruning in a way that encourages lateral growth (such as pruning a rubber plant's main stem), resulting in a bushier silhouette rather than just upright.

The milder spring conditions also allow for faster recovery, making it safer to prune your houseplants at this time. That's why it's a great time to correct leggy growth from adverse winter conditions, allowing your plants to come back better than ever during the warmer months.

With all of that being said, it is important to note this is a generalization, as every houseplant will be different – some won't need any pruning at all (such as succulents, which tend to need minimal pruning).

So, it's important to take into account the specific needs of your houseplants before picking up your pruning snips.

How to Prune Houseplants in Spring

How you prune houseplants in spring depends on what you're trying to achieve. In whatever case, Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten urges to have the right tools to hand:

'Use clean, sharp pruning tools. This is the most vital step. Dull blades crush stems instead of cutting them, which invites decay,' Marina says.

'Always disinfect your scissors or pruning shears with rubbing alcohol between plants to ensure you aren’t spreading pests or diseases,' she adds.

These houseplant snips from Amazon are a good choice for softer stemmed houseplants, while you may want to use these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon for woodier plants.

As mentioned, every houseplant will be different. The following advice is general guidance on houseplant pruning, so make sure to also look into the needs of your specific plants – like how to prune a monstera and how to prune an orchid.

Pruning to Remove Damaged Stems

This is the main reason to prune houseplants in spring, especially of they're looking a little tired after adverse winter conditions.

You should look for any discolored foliage and snapped stems, as these will not turn green again. I like to wait as long as possible to remove this damaged plant material because the plant can still recycle nutrients from it until it turns fully brown.

'Removing dead parts of the plant prevents the plant from wasting nutrients on unproductive limbs and redirects energy to fresh foliage,' says Marina.

'While dead leaves can be removed year-round, major structural pruning should happen in spring. As daylight increases, houseplants enter a high-energy growth phase, allowing them to recover and fill out much faster than during the winter months,' she explains.

When removing damaged plant material, the general rule is to cut at the base of the leaf stem. Some houseplants naturally shed these leaves, such as a dragon tree, so you can also give it a gentle pull first to see if it comes away easily.

Pruning for Fuller Growth

If your houseplant has very upright growth or is trailing, such as a rubber plant or a pothos, you can use careful pruning techniques in spring to encourage lateral branches.

When doing this, it's important to identify leaf nodes, otherwise your efforts may be less than successful.

'This is the point where a leaf meets the stem or where you can see a small bump indicating dormant growth,' Anup explains.

'That node is where the new branch will emerge from, and cutting too far above it leaves a stub of dead stem that rots back toward the node and can introduce disease,' he explains.

Take care not to remove too much of the plant when doing this. You should always follow the one third pruning rule.

'Removing too many leaves starves the plant of its ability to produce energy through photosynthesis,' says Marina.

This can result in stunted growth and the gradual decline of the plant.

Make sure to save the cuttings you remove, too. There are so many easy houseplants to grow from cuttings, so you can double your collection by propagating the material you cut off.

For woodier plants, you may find a rooting hormone (like this rooting hormone powder on Amazon) makes this an easier process.

What to Shop

There are lots of pruning mistakes to be aware of that apply to houseplants, including using dirty tools. If needed, you can sharpen your pruning shears in just a few steps.

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If your peace lily has been getting through the colder months without much fuss, May is when you’ll start to notice a change – subtle, but easy to spot. There’s a bit more energy in the plant, the leaves look fresher and glossier, and, given the right conditions, flowering won’t be far off. It’s not a dramatic shift, but it does mark the start of a more active phase.

That’s why knowing what to do with a peace lily in May really matters. This is the point where peace lily care benefits from a slightly more considered approach. Nothing needs a complete overhaul, but a few small adjustments – tweaking the light, being more consistent with watering, and introducing a light feeding routine – can make a real difference to how healthy, balanced, and elegant the plant looks as it moves into summer.

1. Move It Into Softer, Brighter Light

While peace lilies will tolerate lower light, they really perform at their best in bright, indirect conditions, especially in May, when growth starts to pick up again. If you’re unsure where to place a peace lily, aim for somewhere with soft, filtered light. A spot near an east- or north-facing window usually works well, or a little back from a sunnier window where the light isn’t too direct.

If natural light is limited, a simple solution is to use an LED Grow Light from Amazon, which can help mimic those brighter conditions without exposing the plant to direct sun. Too much sunlight can leave the leaves looking scorched or faded, while too little light often gives you plenty of greenery but very few flowers. If your plant hasn’t bloomed in a while, adjusting the light is often the simplest place to start – and it can make a noticeable difference fairly quickly.

2. Refine Your Watering Routine

As temperatures start to rise, you’ll find you need to adjust how you water a peace lily slightly – but it’s consistency that really matters here. The aim is to keep the compost lightly moist, letting the top layer dry out just a little before watering again.

One of the helpful things about peace lilies is how clearly they show you what they need. The leaves will start to droop when the plant is thirsty, then perk back up not long after a good drink. The key is not to let it swing between very dry and overly wet too often. Keeping things steady will help maintain that lush, healthy look and support strong, ongoing growth.

3. Reintroduce Feeding With A Light Touch

May is a good time to start feeding again, but keep it gentle. If you’re wondering how to fertilize a peace lily, a balanced, diluted houseplant feed every couple of weeks is usually more than enough as it moves into active growth.

There’s no real benefit to overdoing it – peace lilies can be quite sensitive, and too much fertilizer often shows up as brown tips on the leaves. A light, consistent approach will give you much better results over time, supporting steady growth without stressing the plant. Products like TPS Liquid Peace Lily Plant Food from Amazon or Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food Spikes are both easy, low-effort options that keep feeding simple and steady.

4. Keep Leaves Polished And Growth Tidy

This is one of those small, almost satisfying tasks that makes a bigger difference than you’d expect. Wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth removes dust and brings back that rich, glossy sheen peace lilies are known for.

If you want to make it even easier, a pair of Amazon Microfiber Dusting Gloves for Plants works really well for gently cleaning larger leaves without much effort. While you’re there, it’s also worth tidying up anything that’s past its best. Snip off yellowing leaves or faded blooms at the base to keep the plant looking fresh and encourage it to put its energy into healthy new growth instead of maintaining older foliage.

5. Check Whether It Needs Repotting

Late spring is a good time to check whether it’s time to repot a peace lily, but there’s no need to rush into it. These plants actually prefer being slightly snug in their pots and often perform better when they’re not given too much extra space.

If you notice roots starting to push through the drainage holes, or the compost drying out much faster than usual, that’s usually your cue that it’s time to move it on. When you do repot a peace lily, go up just one pot size and use a well-draining mix so moisture stays balanced rather than sitting heavy around the roots.

6. Gently Boost Humidity

As homes start to warm up, you’ll often notice indoor air becoming a bit drier – and peace lilies aren’t especially fond of that shift. They’re naturally tropical plants, so they always appreciate a touch more humidity to keep their foliage looking fresh and full.

A naturally humid spot, like a bright bathroom, is ideal if you have one. If not, it doesn’t need to be complicated – an occasional misting or a simple humidity setup can make a real difference. This Bonsai Humidity Tray from Amazon works particularly well here, gently increasing moisture around the plant without any fuss. It’s a small adjustment, but one that helps the leaves stay lush and healthy as indoor conditions change.

Shop Peace Lily Care for May

May is really when a peace lily starts to come back into its own. You’ll notice it responding to the extra light, settling into a steadier watering routine, and generally just looking a bit more alive and expressive again.

With a gentle hand on feeding and a bit of consistency, it slips into that graceful, steady growth phase it’s known for – and if everything’s in the right place, fresh blooms usually follow not long after. At this point, it’s less about changing everything and more about keeping things balanced and paying attention to the small details that help it thrive.

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When it comes to houseplants, there's nothing quite as quirky as a cactus – but the fishbone cactus (or Disocactus anguliger) wins the prize for the quirkiest houseplant of all. Also known as a zigzag cactus or a ric rac cactus, this isn't your typical prickly plant; in fact, it doesn't have any spines at all.

Instead, it boasts glossy foliage that starts out as narrow green stems before forming uniquely wavy nodes (which, as you might expect, eventually create a delightful zigzag pattern).

Native to Mexico, this playful and pet-friendly plant thrives in humid conditions, indirect sunlight, and well-draining soil. You can pick up a live fishbone cactus from Walmart, or opt for a fishbone cactus in a hanging basket, like this one from The Home Depot. And if you're curious about how to care for a cactus like this one, we've asked our resident houseplant expert to share the best tips.

5 Tips to Help You Care For a Fishbone Cactus

'The fishbone cactus is one of the most intriguing houseplants to add to your collection,' says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'Although technically a cactus, it’s often referred to as a succulent because it doesn’t have spikes and has fleshy foliage similar to succulents.'

While the fishbone cactus isn't a fickle houseplant, it still requires regular watering, plenty of humidity, and a sunny location. Below, Tenielle gives her advice on how to care for this unique species.

1. Select The Right Soil

A particularly interesting fact about the fishbone cactus is that it's an example of an epiphyte – a plant that grows on other plants.

'The fishbone cactus is typically found growing on tree bark,' explains Tenielle. 'And with this in mind, the number one thing that will set your fishbone cactus up for success is its soil.'

The secret? A light, aerated mix – think something like succulent and cactus potting soil (which you can find at Amazon) with added perlite (like this Miracle-Gro perlite from Walmart).

'Just like other epiphytic houseplants, it’s best to avoid a super dense potting soil for these plants,' she states. 'Instead, opt for a loose, well-draining potting medium. You can even use something like orchid bark.' (Organic orchid bark is also easy to find at Amazon.)

2. Prioritize Bright, Indirect Light

While it hails from sunny Mexico, the fishbone cactus is accustomed to bright but dappled sunlight – so this is what you'll want to try and recreate.

'Whenever I’m looking for the perfect spot for a new houseplant, I think about their native growing environment,' reflects Tenielle. 'For a fishbone cactus, this means thinking about the tropical rainforests in Mexico, where it grows in dappled light beneath tree canopies.'

Reproducing these conditions might not seem particularly straightforward, but indirect light is the most crucial consideration.

'I recommend choosing a spot with bright light, but keeping your cactus out of direct afternoon sun,' says Tenielle. 'This may cause leaf scorch and discolor the foliage.'

3. Create Optimal Humidity

Just like other indoor succulents, the fishbone cactus loves humidity – so you'll want to ensure that it receives plenty of moisture from the air.

The easiest way to do this is to place your fishbone cactus in the bathroom: 'This is ideal, as it can soak up extra moisture in the air from shower steam,' says Tenielle. 'However, you can also place moisture-loving houseplants on a pebble humidity tray; I personally find that it works a lot more effectively than a plant mister.'

You can pick up a colorful plant humidifier tray from Etsy, or choose a more understated pebble tray from Amazon.

4. Make Sure to Monitor Moisture Levels

It can be tricky to know how to water a cactus, but it's all about monitoring moisture levels carefully – you can use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Walmart) to help you.

'When it comes to watering your fishbone cactus, treat it the same as other cacti and succulents that store water in their fleshy stems,' advises Tenielle. 'You can allow its soil to dry out almost entirely, though you shouldn’t allow it to sit in a prolonged period of drought.'

The fishbone cactus is a largely low-maintenance indoor plant, but it can require a little more attention than you might expect.

'As it’s a rainforest cactus, rather than a desert cactus, the fishbone cactus likes a little more water than other types you may be growing,' says Tenielle. 'Always avoid your fishbone cactus sitting in soggy conditions, too. This can cause root rot and mushy stems.'

5. Clean it Carefully

While soil, humidity and moisture are all vital considerations, there's one aspect of houseplant maintenance that is often overlooked: cleaning.

Admittedly, you won't need to clean your fishbone cactus as often as you water it, but this simple task can make a huge difference to plant health.

'Cleaning houseplant leaves is key to managing pests and diseases,' says Tenielle. 'The flat, smooth foliage of a fishbone cactus can collect quite a bit of dust over time, which can also block pores and hinder plant processes like photosynthesis.'

All you'll need to do is gently wipe down the leaves of your fishbone cactus every few weeks; you can use a soft microfiber cloth (like this pack from Walmart) or invest in a pair of houseplant cleaning gloves, which you can find on Amazon.

Looking for more cactus tips? Check out our advice on how to care for succulents, or read our guide to the best flowering cacti.

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As a self-proclaimed houseplant fanatic, there's nothing I love more than finding unique ways to elevate my indoor garden. My latest discovery maximizes vertical space, aids propagation, and looks quirky: magnetic fridge vases.

They're exactly what they sound like – magnetic vessels to stick on your fridge to display plants. More specifically, they're suited to houseplant cuttings you're propagating in water. These Amazon magnetic fridge vases have caught my eye in particular because they have a sophisticated wooden finish and test tube shaped vessel. Just like other propagation stations, this makes it easy to watch root development.

In fact, you can use them to display small cut flowers, too. Whatever the case, there's no doubt they'll uplift your fridge with a little whimsy. 'A nice gift for a plant lover who you think has everything under the sun for gardening,' one reviewer writes. For $9.99, these magnets are the tiny upgrade I didn't know my indoor garden needed.

Why Shoppers Love Them

These Amazon magnetic fridge vases are so easy to use. You just stick them on your fridge, use a narrow-spouted watering can (like this houseplant watering can from Wayfair) to top them up with water, and pop in your cuttings or flower stems.

'These are fun. I have them on my fridge with a small clipping of a plant. They are tiny and cute. I live in an apartment so it is nice to add greenery where I can,' one reviewer writes.

These are the perfect way to add more greenery to your living space if you are limited for room. It's a unique way to make a vertical indoor garden, utilizing the space on your fridge door where you otherwise wouldn't display plants.

'Perfect for propagation in small areas!' another shopper notes.

There are lots of indoor growing systems that allow you to propagate plant cuttings in water, but they can demand a lot of surface space. That's where these Amazon magnetic fridge vases come in.

Plus, just like this test tube propagation station from Amazon, these magnetic planters are the perfect size to support healthy rooting.

I have also seen more decorative magnetic fridge vases (like this charming pack of 10 on Amazon), but they're better suited to displaying tiny wildflowers, rather than supporting rooting.

Just take care to avoid water propagation mistakes by refreshing the water regularly to keep it clean – which you can do easily as the test tubes can be removed from the wooden holders.

As for how they perform, each vase has two magnets for a secure hold.

'I was actually pleasantly surprised by the quality,' a shopper shares.

'The magnets are plenty strong, and the vials fit well in the holder,' another person writes.

Of course, you can display them on other magnetic surfaces, too. Though, it isn't recommended to put them on a surfaces that radiate heat, for example, as this can affect plant growth.

Perhaps the one downside is their size, measuring just 3.94" in length. For heavy flower stems or bigger plant cuttings, they may not be suitable and might fall out.

However, for a pretty and fun way to display rooting cuttings or for an alternative take on bud vases, these Amazon magnetic fridge vases are a great find – especially for $9.99.

Shop Propagation Accessories

If you're keen to experiment with houseplant propagation, check out our tricks to speed up houseplant propagation. You'll get brand new plants much faster by using these methods.

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Terrariums are some of the most charming additions to the indoor garden – that is, until they start to rot and fade away. But, with the right vessel and accompanying right plants you can actually keep a terrarium going for years on end. If yours is already looking a little worse for wear, here's how to quickly replenish it.

It's easy to make your own terrarium or you can purchase a pre-made one (like this beautiful terrarium kit from Amazon). However, if it contains plants that actually need more room than a terrarium offers, or they prefer drier or wetter conditions, it won't take long for it to all turn to brown mush.

Luckily, it's quite easy to replenish your terrarium. Here, I talk through what I do to refresh mine – trust me, it will last for years after this.

1. Choose the Right Vessel

One of the biggest terrarium mistakes I see with pre-made terrariums in is the wrong vessel being used.

There are closed and open terrariums, which are both fine to use but they determine what kind of plants they can hold.

Closed terrariums are much more humid environments and are better for moisture-loving plants, like fittonias and ferns. Open terrariums dry out more quickly, ideal for desert plants like cacti and some succulents.

However, if the vessel lacks good drainage and ventilation, it can harness an environment for rot and mold.

There should be a drainage layer and ideally a space for excess water to drain into. This is especially important for closed terrariums which don't have airflow and dry out more slowly.

Open terrariums that have narrow openings may also have limited ventilation and lack sufficient space for plants to grow.

You should also avoid any opaque terrariums or those with colored glass, as they can overheat easily and dehydrate plants.

Ultimately, (if needed) you should swap your terrarium for one that provides good drainage, airflow, and is easy to maintain.

This open glass terrarium on driftwood from Wayfair is my top pick.

2. Use Terrarium Soil

Terrariums with dense houseplant potting soil can hold onto excess moisture, leading to root rot and mold.

Instead, it's best to opt for specific terrarium potting mix (like this from Amazon) which is designed to have good drainage but also hold onto sufficient moisture to keep the plants hydrated.

Of course, if you're panning to make a succulent terrarium, you may want to use a sandy soil type. This succulent potting mix from Amazon is a good choice – I recommend pairing it with an open terrarium for desert plants, as they don't tend to enjoy higher humidity.

For extra drainage, add a layer of pebbles (like these from Walmart) at the bottom of the terrarium. This will prevent plant roots sitting in excess moisture.

3. Add Your Plants

There are so many terrarium plants to choose from but making the wrong choice for the type of terrarium you have can result in a premature decline.

Arid terrarium plants, like cacti and some succulents, do much better in open terrariums with good airflow. The high humidity of closed terrariums can result in mushy stems and dying succulents.

You can use this pack of mini succulents from Walmart to put your terrarium together.

Moisture-loving terrarium plants, like ferns and fittonias, are better suited to closed terrariums. They enjoy humid environments and don't like to dry out entirely.

This pack of terrarium plants from Walmart has a few different options to work with.

Something else to keep in mind is how much room your plants need to grow. Overcrowding terrariums can limit airflow and cause issues with mold. It's better to underplant than overplant your terrarium for this reason.

4. Add a Top Dressing

Optionally, you may wish to add some moss or pebbles to the top layer of your terrarium. This can provide a neater look, but also brings benefits to plant health.

Moss (like this pack of terrarium moss on Amazon) is moisture-retentive and works well for the moisture-loving terrarium plants, preventing them from drying out.

Plant pebbles (like these from Walmart) are much more common for succulent and cacti terrariums. This is because it acts as a protective barrier between the soil and lower succulent leaves, preventing issues of rot.

Pebbles can also help keep houseplant pests away, as it provides a barrier that stops them from laying eggs in the soil.

5. Place It Somewhere Bright

Another way to prolong your terrarium's lifespan is by maintaining optimal terrarium care. One of the most important elements of this is placing it somewhere bright.

Of course, light is essential for photosynthesis, which is vital for the plant process of absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen. In a terrarium, this helps maintain a stable mini-ecosystem for the plants inside.

Bright daylight not only helps plants grow, but it also aids moisture management, ensuring soil doesn't stay overly wet and reducing the likelihood of mold building up.

Plus, bright, even light will help terrarium plants stay compact, preventing leggy growth and sparse stems. Houseplant rotation is a good thing to practice to aid this.

In winter, you can supplement natural light with this grow light from Amazon. This is especially important when daylight levels are limited.

What to Shop

Our guide to where to place a terrarium has more information finding the right spot in your home. A bathroom can be a good location, with extra moisture and humidity from shower steam.

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Whenever I walk past the clearance houseplants section of my local garden center, I can't help myself but pick one up. While you might assume there's no chance in saving them, a little TLC can go a long way and help them bounce back even better than before.

Even if these houseplants have experienced some of the worst indoor plant mistakes in store, are full of yellowing leaves, and they're pest-ridden, you can nurture them back to good health with a little pruning, repotting, and optimal care. Of course, you shouldn't expect instant results. It does take time to get them looking their best again, but I think the journey makes it a fun and rewarding process.

It really does depend on what kind of state they're in as to whether you can rescue clearance houseplants, but I firmly believe it's always worth trying – plus, you'll pay lower prices and save a little money on new additions to your indoor garden. Here, I run through the five easy steps I follow to save struggling houseplants.

1. Look for Signs of Life

The first step in attempting to rescue clearance houseplants is ensuring they aren't already written off. After all, you don't want your money and efforts to go to waste on a plant that has no chance of reviving.

You can check for signs of life on a houseplant in a couple of ways.

Look at the stems. They should be green, flexible, and firm, not brown, brittle, and woody. You can actually use the scratch test to get more insight into whether the plant still has life in it – this is particularly useful if the plant is dormant and doesn't have any visible new growth.

You should also turn your attention to the roots. Gently lift the plant out of its nursery pot and observe the root ball. Healthy roots should be white and firm, not dark and mushy which indicates severe houseplant root rot.

With these signs of life identified, you can take this houseplant home to begin reviving it.

2. Check for Pests

It's a good practice to isolate any new houseplants you bring home, whether in fit condition or from the clearance section. This safeguards your existing houseplants from houseplant pests.

Look on the underside of leaves for any lingering pests, such as thrips, spider mites, and aphids.

Some common signs the plant may have a pest include spotting on leaves, sticky residue, fine webbing, and stunted growth.

Of course, these can also indicate the plant previously had a pest issue rather than having an active problem.

Whatever the case, it's best to identify any problems early so you can take steps to get rid of them before they turn into a bigger infestation.

Neem oil (like this neem oil spray for plants on Amazon) is a natural pest control product that can help get rid of a wide range of houseplant pests.

3. Prune Damaged Leaves

The next step in trying to rescue clearance houseplants is giving them a good prune.

You'll need essential pruning tools to hand, like these houseplant snips on Amazon or these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon (which are useful for woodier plants and those with thicker stems).

Following the one third pruning rule (so you don't shock the plant further), make clean cuts at the base of plant stems to remove the most damaged and dying leaves.

Discolored foliage won't turn green again, so it's best to remove them to prevent the plant draining its energy. This will help redirect the plant's energy into putting on new, healthy growth.

Removing dying plant material will also help keep pest and disease issues at bay and put the plant in a healthier state.

It's likewise a good idea to prune houseplant roots that are rotting and mushy.

4. Soak the Plant

This step all depends on how much water the plant was given in the store. If the soil is bone-dry and it seems like it hasn't been watered for quite some time, it can be helpful to give it a good soaking.

Fill a bowl or sink with water, remove the plant from its pot, and let it sit in the water for around 30 minutes, or even up to an hour if it's significantly dehydrated.

Bottom watering houseplants like this is a great technique for plants that are dehydrated or have developed hydrophobic soil from extended periods of drought. It allows plant roots to soak up just as much water as they need – I even find that the foliage perks up after this.

Going forward, I recommend using a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to identify when it's time to water your houseplants, so you can avoid over and underwatering.

5. Give it Fresh Soil

To give these houseplants the best chance, I like to give them fresh potting soil.

Not only does it provide a looser medium to grow in, improving drainage, but fresh houseplant potting soil will also be nutrient-rich and give them a boost.

When it comes to the best potting soil for indoor plants, it depends on what the plant is.

A well-draining all-purpose houseplant potting mix (like this from Lowe's) works well for the majority of indoor plants, but you can also purchase specific orchid bark mixes (like this from Walmart) and cacti and succulent potting soil (from Amazon).

You should repot the plants into a larger pot if they were slightly root-bound, too. Alongside the fresh soil, this will boost their growth.

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FAQs

Will Fertilizer Bring My Houseplant Back to Life?

Not necessarily. Fertilizer can provide houseplants a boost of essential plant nutrients, which is useful during the active growth season from spring-fall. But, using it in attempt to revive a dying plant can actually shock the plant further and cause root burn. Instead, you should provide optimal growing conditions to nurture it back to life and then use fertilizer to boost its growth once it's in a stable condition.

Don't forget to also look out for red flags when buying houseplants from the store. Sometimes the issues are too deep-rooted and it may not be worth your time or money to try and save a severely struggling plant.

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If your monstera has limped through winter looking a little lacklustre, April is when things start to change. With longer days and stronger light returning, this tropical favourite begins to wake up properly again. A few small tweaks to your routine now can have a big impact on how well it grows for the rest of the year.

This is the point where good monstera care really starts to matter. Below, we’ll walk through everything worth focusing on this April, in a way that reflects how experienced gardeners actually handle spring houseplant care – simple, practical steps that make sense when you see how the plant is responding in real time.

1. Start Watering a Little More Mindfully

Through winter, monsteras are content to tick along with minimal attention, but April signals the start of more active growth. You’ll likely notice the soil drying out more quickly, which is your cue to begin to water houseplants a little more often. That said, it’s not about sticking to a strict schedule. Monsteras much prefer a responsive approach – allowing the top layer of soil to dry out before watering thoroughly again.

Overwatering is still the quickest way to cause problems at this time of year, particularly while temperatures can fluctuate, so it’s worth erring on the side of restraint rather than enthusiasm.

If you’re not quite sure when it’s actually time to water, a moisture meter can take the guesswork out of it. The Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a simple, reliable option that helps you read the soil properly, so you can keep your monstera plant hydrated without tipping into overwatering.

2. Reintroduce Feeding as Growth Begins

Once you spot signs of new growth – a fresh leaf unfurling or a new stem pushing through – it’s time to reintroduce feeding and fertilize monstera again. April really marks the beginning of its growing season, and it will benefit from a steady supply of nutrients to support that flush of foliage. A balanced liquid fertilizer applied every few weeks is usually enough.

There’s no need to rush in at full strength straight away; starting gently and building up as growth accelerates tends to give the best results. Think of it as supporting the plant, rather than pushing it.

A gentle option like Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food works well, delivering nutrients without overwhelming the plant, while slow-release formulas designed for succulents are a good low-maintenance alternative that can carry your monstera through the season with minimal fuss.

3. Repot If Your Monstera Has Outgrown Its Space

Spring is widely considered the best time to repot houseplants, and monstera are no exception. If you need to repot a monstera because it’s looking cramped, drying out unusually quickly, or sending roots out of the drainage holes, April is an ideal moment to act. Moving it into a slightly larger pot gives the roots space to expand just as the plant is gearing up for growth.

Fresh compost (I use the Back to the Roots 100% Organic Indoor Potting Mix from Amazon) will also replenish nutrients and improve structure, both of which contribute to stronger, healthier development over the season ahead. Alternatively, you can make your own monstera potting mix. It's simple, sustainable, and rich in nutrients.

If you’d prefer something more low-effort and contemporary, self-watering options can make the whole setup more forgiving. The square Self-Watering Planter Pots from Target offer a clean, modern look while helping to maintain more consistent moisture levels, especially useful while the plant adjusts after being repotted and settles into its new space.

4. Move It Into Better Light Gradually

One of the biggest changes in April is the quality of light, and your monstera will respond quickly to it. Brighter conditions encourage larger leaves and those much-loved splits, but it’s still important to strike a balance.

A position with bright, indirect light is ideal. If your plant has been sitting in a darker winter spot, ease it into brighter conditions gradually rather than shifting it straight into strong sun, which can cause scorching on the leaves.

It’s also a good time to keep an eye on how evenly it’s growing. A simple weekly rotation helps ensure all sides receive light, encouraging balanced growth and preventing the plant from leaning too heavily in one direction.

5. Tidy Up and Refresh the Leaves

April is a good time to take stock of how your monstera is doing after winter. Removing any yellowing or damaged leaves helps redirect the plant’s energy into fresh growth, while a gentle wipe of the foliage improves its ability to photosynthesise efficiently and keeps dust from building up.

For light, precise trimming, I like using Flower Scissors for Pruning from Amazon – they make it easy to snip away tired leaves without stressing the plant.

It’s also worth checking the undersides of leaves and along the stems, as pests tend to become more active as temperatures rise. Catching any early signs now can save you a lot of trouble later, just as the plant starts pushing out stronger new growth.

6. Add Support to Encourage Larger Leaves

As your monstera starts to put on new growth, you may find it benefits from a bit of extra support. In its natural habitat, it’s a climber, so giving it something to grow up – like a moss pole or a simple stake – can make a noticeable difference. It helps keep the plant upright and tidy, but more importantly, it encourages stronger, more vertical growth. Over time, this often leads to larger, more dramatic leaves, with those signature splits developing more readily.

I tend to use Bendable Moss Pole Monstera Plant Supports for my own houseplants – they’re easy to position as the plant grows and give you a bit more flexibility than rigid stakes, which makes training the stems feel much more natural.

7. Try Propagating New Plants

If you’ve ever thought about taking cuttings, April is one of the easiest times to do it – and a great opportunity to propagate a monstera successfully. The combination of warmer temperatures and increasing light levels creates ideal conditions for rooting, so new plants tend to establish more quickly and with less effort.

All it really takes is a healthy cutting with a node, placed in water or directly into soil. From there, it’s mostly a waiting game – though a satisfying one. With a bit of patience, you’ll usually start to see roots forming within a few weeks, especially as the plant settles into the rhythm of the growing season.

Shop Monstera Care for April

April is less about doing anything drastic and more about small, thoughtful adjustments. Your monstera is naturally shifting into a period of active growth – your role is simply to support that with a bit more water, better light, and the gradual return of feeding.

Get that balance right now, and by early summer you’ll start to see the payoff: larger, glossier leaves, stronger growth, and a plant that looks noticeably more vibrant and well established.

The only thing more exciting than a picture-perfect houseplant is one that's also easy to care for – which is why the string of hearts is such a popular choice.

In April, this pretty plant is entering its active growth season, so you'll need to keep an eye on soil moisture and start watering your string of hearts more frequently. April is also an ideal time for fertilizing, propagating, and pruning – all of which will help your string of hearts to thrive in the months ahead.

While growing and caring for a string of hearts plant is straightforward, these maintenance tasks are crucial for encouraging better growth and healthy foliage. Below, experts reveal exactly what to do with your string of hearts in April. (And if you haven't already added one to your collection, you can pick up a string of hearts from The Sill.)

1. Begin Watering More Frequently

'I can’t wait for April to arrive when it comes to my string of hearts, as the warmer spring temperatures kickstart a new active growth season,' says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

Naturally, warmer weather will stir up a change in houseplants like string of hearts, which means you'll want to make sure yours has more water.

''Something to keep on top of this month is watering,' confirms Tenielle. 'Your string of hearts will be a lot thirstier than when it was dormant in winter, and these houseplants don’t enjoy prolonged drought.' Watering every 7-10 days is recommended throughout the spring and summer months.

2. Monitor Soil Moisture Levels

While regular watering is vital in April, string of hearts are brilliantly low-maintenance indoor plants, and they can, in fact, start to suffer if their soil becomes too wet.

'Native to South Africa, string of hearts are semi-succulent plants, and they should be left to dry out completely before watering again,' explains Tenielle.

A fine balance is key: 'Watering too frequently can cause root rot,' says Tenielle. 'However, don’t wait too long to top them up as it can cause shriveling and leaf drop.'

To help you strike this balance and create the perfect conditions for your string of hearts, a soil moisture meter is a brilliant investment; you can pick one up from Walmart for under $20.

3. Focus on Fertilizing

Wondering how to fertilize houseplants like string of hearts? Thankfully, it isn't a year-round task, but now is the perfect time to start.

'April provides a great opportunity to start fertilizing your string of hearts to support new growth,' says Tenielle. 'Nutrients in soil deplete over time, so it’s a good idea to feed your string of hearts with a balanced houseplant fertilizer to replenish them.'

You can find an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer like the Miracle Gro indoor liquid plant food on Amazon; Tenielle recommends 'diluting it to half-strength and feeding your string of hearts once a month through spring and summer.'

'Take care not to fertilize more frequently,' she adds. 'This could cause root burn and kill off the plant.'

4. Start Pruning

As spring arrives, there are two essential maintenance tasks that will transform your string of hearts: pruning and propagating. These tasks go hand in hand, starting with trimming off any lengthy strands before you place them back into the soil.

'You can trim your string of hearts’ long strands to give it a neater look and encourage more growth,' says Tenielle. 'Cut just below a leaf node with sharp houseplant snips.' (You can pick up multi-purpose pruning shears and snips at Amazon.)

5. Don't Forget to Propagate

When it comes to propagating your string of hearts, it couldn't be simpler; in fact, it's one of the reasons why this houseplant is so popular.

'After pruning your string of hearts, take the pieces you cut off, remove any lower leaves, and pop the ends of them back into the soil,' instructs Tenielle. 'They should root within 2-4 weeks; just make sure to provide bright light, warmth, and moisture.'

The result? 'Your string of hearts plant will look much fuller,' says Tenielle. 'You can also grow brand new plants by potting up the cuttings in their own planter.'

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Want to grow your houseplant collection even further? Check out our guide to the best indoor plants, and the best indoor succulents.

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April is when your pothos plant really begins to wake up. After a slower winter period, you’ll notice fresher growth, longer trailing vines, and a healthier overall look – especially across different pothos varieties, which can respond slightly differently as light levels increase.

It’s also the time when it’s easy to overcorrect with your pothos plant care routine and do too much at once. In reality, your pothos doesn’t need a dramatic reset. A few small, well-timed adjustments to your pothos plant care are all it takes to support steady, healthy growth into spring – here’s what to do with a pothos plant in April.

1. Give It a Slightly Better Spot for Light

If your pothos has been sitting in a dim corner over winter, April is the perfect time to rethink where to place a pothos and gradually introduce it to brighter conditions. Skip direct sun, which can scorch the leaves, and aim for a spot with steady, bright, indirect light.

The difference is often noticeable within weeks. Leaves grow larger, the color deepens, and the spacing between them tightens, creating a fuller, more balanced plant. If it begins to lean towards the window, that’s usually a clear sign it’s thriving in its new position.

If your space is limited – perhaps a north-facing window or a naturally darker room – a compact full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon can make all the difference. It’s a popular choice for a reason, adding focused, balanced light without taking over your shelf or tabletop.

2. Adjust Watering to Match Faster Growth

This is the time of year when watering habits need a slight adjustment rather than a complete overhaul. Your pothos won’t suddenly need constant watering – it simply won’t stay damp for as long as it did over winter.

Instead of following a fixed routine, let the soil guide you. Check the top layer with your finger; if it feels dry, it’s time to water. If there’s still a hint of moisture, leave it for another day or two. It’s a small shift, but it makes a big difference, helping to keep roots healthy and avoiding overwatering – something pothos is particularly sensitive to.

If you prefer a more considered approach, a simple soil moisture meter like the Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can take the guesswork out of watering altogether.

For day-to-day care, a good watering can or plant mister also helps you stay consistent. A glass plant mister from Target is both practical and decorative, while the Haws Fazeley Flow watering can from Anthropologie strikes that rare balance between function and design, working just as well indoors as it does outside.

3. Start Feeding Lightly Again

In April, your pothos is firmly back in active growth mode, making it the right time to use houseplant fertilizer again – but with a light touch. A diluted liquid feed once a month is usually more than enough to support healthy, steady growth. I use the Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Plant Food from Amazon to keep my plant thriving and healthy.

There’s no need to overdo it. Too much fertilizer can lead to soft, weak stems and excessive growth that the plant can’t properly sustain. Instead, think of feeding as gentle support rather than a push for speed.

It’s also worth keeping an eye on your pothos potting mix at this stage. A well-draining mix helps nutrients move through the soil evenly and prevents buildup, ensuring your plant gets the full benefit of each feed without the risk of stress or root issues.

4. Trim It Back If It’s Looking Leggy

If your plant has come through winter looking a little stretched or uneven, April is the ideal time to prune a pothos and bring it back into shape. Trim just above a node to encourage new shoots to form, which is what creates that fuller, more cascading look over time.

It might feel like a bold move at first, but pothos responds quickly to pruning. Within a few weeks, you’ll usually see fresh growth emerging just below the cut points, helping the plant look denser, healthier, and far more balanced.

5. Only Repot If It Really Needs It

April is often seen as the ideal time to repot a pothos, but it’s not something you need to rush into. In fact, pothos tends to prefer being slightly snug in its pot, and unnecessary repotting can do more harm than good.

Only consider moving it into a larger container if you spot clear signs it’s root-bound – such as roots circling the base or water running straight through the pot without properly soaking in. If those signs aren’t there, it’s best to leave your plant where it is and allow it to keep settling and growing at its own pace.

Shop Pothos Essentials for April

At this time of year, your pothos doesn’t need a complete overhaul – just a few thoughtful, seasonal adjustments. A little more light, slightly more attentive watering, light feeding, and the occasional trim if it’s looking out of shape are usually enough.

Nothing dramatic, nothing complicated. Just small, well-timed tweaks that help your plant shift smoothly from winter survival mode into confident spring growth.

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Spring isn't just an exciting time in the yard; our indoor gardens are also waking up. Many flowering houseplants, like peace lilies and African violets, are showing off their bright blooms this season. But, don't panic if yours aren't flowering just yet – there's usually a logical explanation behind why and a quick fix.

There are lots of indoor flowering plants that will start to bloom in spring, but there are other indoor plants that flower all year round in periodic cycles. This means they may be in a non-flowering stage during spring, which is perfectly normal. Other causes of a lack of blooms involve improper growing conditions, such as too little light or a lack of nutrients. Luckily, these are easy to resolve.

Here, with the help of houseplant experts, I diagnose the reasons why indoor flowering plants aren't blooming in spring with a closer look at five of the most popular types.

1. Peace Lily

If you grow a peace lily, you'll know it can take some time between blooming cycles for a new flower spike to emerge.

They can flower at any point in the year, but typically bloom in spring and again in late summer-early fall. But if the conditions aren't quite right in early spring, it can result in a lack of a flower spike for the season.

'Peace lilies bud up in medium light. Sometimes the light will get brighter in spring, which will cause peace lilies not to flower,' explains Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

If placed in direct sun, peace lilies can become stressed, experience leaf scorch, and stunt growth. At the same time, too little light will also produce a lack of blooms.

'Peace lilies are famous for tolerating low light, but they won’t flower if there isn’t enough light. If you want it to produce a bloom, put the plant near a bright window, but not in harsh direct sun,' says plant expert and interior plant designer Shane Pliska.

Other causes can be a lack of essential plant nutrients in your peace lily's soil, especially if you've had it for a few years and haven't repotted it, as nutrients deplete over time.

To resolve this, you can use a specific peace lily fertilizer (available on Amazon) to give it a boost.

2. Moth Orchid

Moth orchids are some of the longest-lasting indoor blooms, with flower spikes sticking around for 3-6 months at a time.

To achieve this exotic display in the home, they follow a yearly cycle, developing flower spikes and buds over winter and blooming in spring.

If your orchid isn't flowering now, it's likely due to a lack of winter conditions:

'Orchids need a trigger to rebloom, which is an increase in light and cooler temperatures at night,' explains Shane.

'A reliable technique to trigger a bloom is to place your orchid in a sunny window in February or March and crack the window. The longer days can trigger a bloom along with a 10-degree drop in temperature at night.'

You can also fertilize your orchid in spring to support new growth (this liquid orchid fertilizer on Amazon is a good choice), and prune your orchid to remove old stems from last year – this will redirect the plant's energy into growing new flower spikes.

Our guide to what to do with an orchid in April has more tips for caring for this plant in spring.

3. African Violet

African violets are some of the most reliable indoor blooms you can grow, loved for their long lifespan of 20-50 years.

'African violets are an heirloom legacy plant, and I respectfully defer to the advice from your grandmother or the elder who gifted it to you,' Shane says.

'But generally, if it’s not blooming, the issue is almost always light and care consistency. These plants need moderate light and a stable care routine to keep flowering,' he explains.

There are a few things African violets need in March and April to encourage spring blooms. As Shane notes, this includes consistent bright light, though direct sun can discolor their sensitive leaves.

These plants also need a rest period in winter to regain energy for blooming in spring. If you continued fertilizing it, watering frequently, and didn't remove spent blooms during winter, it might not have gotten a sufficient dormancy period.

Once they do start to actively grow in spring, you can give them a boost with this African violet fertilizer from Amazon.

4. Lipstick Plant

Lipstick plant is one of the most unusual houseplants, with long vines of succulent-like foliage and bright red tubular flowers that come out in spring and commonly last until fall.

If this indoor hanging plant has a lack of blooms in spring, it's likely down to a few crucial care tasks being skipped.

'Lipstick plants bloom exclusively on new growth,' says Anup Mutalik, founder of Houseplants Nook.

'An unpruned plant that's been growing the same old stems for two years is structurally incapable of producing many flowers, regardless of how well you care for it.

'A hard prune in late winter is the best thing you can do with this plant. Fresh stems push out afterward, and that's where every flower will come from,' he explains.

You can use these houseplant snips from Amazon to give this plant a trim. Focus on removing the oldest, leggiest stems, and always cut above a leaf node to encourage new growth.

5. Oxalis

Oxalis is a compact shrub that is commonly grown indoors for its unique movement and dainty pink blooms.

'Oxalis is not a common houseplant. It is a seasonal novelty and more commonly used as a temporary display around St. Patrick's Day, due to its common name, purple shamrock,' explains Shane.

'It’s actually a perennial plant with natural dormancy cycles. If it’s not flowering, it may need brighter light. These plants grow and rest in rhythms. Longer days and strong light will encourage blooming during active growth periods,' he adds.

You can expect its pink flowers to emerge in the spring months, and moving it closer to a window can encourage blooming. And don't assume it's dead as it enters dormancy:

'Many people think it is dying, but it may just be cycling. If the bulbs are firm and do not smell off, it is usually just resting. Bright light, light feeding during active growth, and letting it rest when it wants to rest can help it come back stronger,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

Don't forget to also divide these plants every 2-3 years to prevent overcrowding. This will help double your plants and encourage stronger growth and more blooms.

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FAQs

Do Monsteras Flower?

Yes, monsteras actually do flower with cream-colored spathes. But, flowering usually only happens when these plants reach maturity, between 3 and 10 years old. Bright, filtered light and high humidity (60-80%) are required to get a monstera to flower, which is why it's quite rare in typical home environments.

As well as finding out why indoor flowering plants aren't blooming in spring, there are plenty of jobs to get done on your spring houseplant care checklist this month.

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There's no doubt that having a home full of houseplants is joyful, but it can also be off-putting to have containers full of soil attracting the likes of fungus gnats and spilling on the floor when you repot plants. But, there's actually a whole range of houseplants that you can grow without any soil: epiphytic houseplants.

In their natural habitat, epiphytic houseplants (including orchids, bromeliads, and some ferns) grow on surfaces like tree bark. They have aerial roots to climb these surfaces and obtain nutrients and moisture from the debris around them. In the home, you can grow these houseplants without soil by using things like bark, mounting boards, and air plant glass vessels (like this from Amazon).

They're a lot easier to care for than you might assume, too. You just have to get a better understanding of their natural growing habit to provide optimal conditions. Here, houseplant experts share their top epiphytic picks and how to grow them without any soil in the home.

What Are Epiphytic Houseplants?

Epiphytes are tropical indoor plants that don't need soil to grow. Instead, they rely on gaining nutrients and moisture through their aerial roots (i.e., roots exposed to the air).

They are most commonly found clinging to tree trunks in their natural habitat, but they don't harm the host plant. They simply climb them for support, gaining better access to moisture and humidity in the air and surrounding debris.

In the home, it's possible to grow the following epiphytic houseplants through special growing mediums and set-ups:

1. Moth Orchid

Moth orchids (like this white one from The Sill) are the most popular type of orchid to grow as houseplants.

They're found in tropical rainforests in Southeast Asia, growing on tree branches with their iconic aerial roots.

In the home, you can grow orchids either in orchid bark (like this from Walmart) or mounted (using this orchid mounting board on Amazon).

'Orchids do best in filtered bright light, on a windowsill is typically fine. The best way to trigger a bloom is when the days start to get longer in late February or March, crack the window to let in some cool air. Or a drafty location works well too,' explains plant expert and interior plant designer Shane Pliska

'A small drop in temperature at night combined with the longer days will trigger blooms,' he adds.

It can be a good practice to regularly mist your orchid (with this plant mister from Wayfair) to boost its humidity levels and keep its foliage clean. I have mine as bathroom plant and find the extra moisture from the shower steam keeps it happy.

2. Staghorn Fern

Staghorn fern is one of the most eye-catching indoor ferns to grow. It has forked fronds that are reminiscent of antlers, as well as sterile brown basal fronds, which form a protective layer over its aerial roots.

You can find a staghorn fern plant at Walmart.

This is one of the best houseplants to mount, using a mounting board (from Amazon) or a piece of tree bark. You can use sphagnum moss (available on Amazon) to create a base when doing this, which will also lock in moisture for the plant.

To water it, soak its moss base for 20 minutes every week from spring-summer, and every three weeks in fall and winter.

'Unlike most ferns, the staghorn fern doesn’t do well in dark spots. This plant thrives in bright indirect or filtered sunlight. Direct sun rays may damage this fern’s foliage, so it’s better to shelter it,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'To make your plant thrive, provide it with high humidity of 60-80%. You can increase humidity for these indoor plants by using a humidifier, pebble trays (like this from Walmart), or misting the plant regularly,' she adds.

3. Air Plant

Air plants are some of the most fascinating epiphytic houseplants, not needing any growing medium to thrive.

This is a group of plants known as Tillandsia, and they're native to tropical and subtropical regions of the Americas, growing in forests, mountains, and deserts.

They come in all sorts of fun shapes and sizes. This pack of air plants from Walmart has 12 assorted varieties.

It's super low-maintenance to grow air plants. Simply set them up in an air plant vessel, whether it's something like these glass hanging terrariums from Amazon or these air plant urchin shell holders from Amazon.

They can benefit from sand and pebbles for stability (and decoration), but this is not necessary for their growth.

The main thing to do with air plants is to keep them hydrated by soaking them thoroughly weekly during spring and summer.

It would also be an air plant mistake not to provide good airflow, as they are susceptible to rot. For this reason, avoid placing them in a closed terrarium.

4. Christmas Cactus

You may not realize your Christmas cactus is an epiphyte because it's often sold in soil. But, in their natural habitat on coastal mountains in Brazil, they grow on tree branches and rocky surfaces.

To grow it as an epiphyte, the best soil for Christmas cactus is orchid bark, or you can grow it in houseplant potting mix with perlite (available on Amazon) to improve drainage.

It is also possible to style them as indoor hanging plants or mounted.

'The number one Christmas Cactus mistake is treating it like a desert cactus, instead it is tropical succulent that loves humidity,' says Shane.

'Cooler temperatures at night will trigger blooms,' he adds.

Don't forget to also keep your Christmas cactus in a dark spot in the fall to trigger blooming for the holiday season.

You can order a Christmas cactus plant from Amazon.

5. Bromeliad

While not all bromeliads are epiphytes, there are quite a few types that do grow without any soil. They have aerial roots, anchoring themselves to trees in rainforests and deserts in tropical and subtropical Americas.

One of the easiest epiphytic bromeliads to grow at home is Guzmania (which you can find on Amazon).

You can grow bromeliads without soil by mounting them. Sphagnum moss is a good addition to help lock in moisture.

'You will need a good bright light, and to keep water in the cup of the plant,' says Shane.

Bromeliads store water in a central cup (created by overlapping leaves) to stay hydrated. As Shane notes, this is what you'll need to top up with water, rather than soaking the roots.

Keep in mind that bromeliads only flower once. After your bromeliad flowers, you should keep caring for it to encourage 'pups' to form. You can remove these from the parent plant to propagate your bromeliad.

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FAQs

Can You Plant Epiphytes in Houseplant Potting Mix?

Houseplant potting mix tends to hold too much moisture for epiphytes, which may cause root rot. Having said that, there are semi-epiphytic plants (like monsteras) that can thrive in a well-draining houseplant potting mix. You can add things like orchid bark and perlite to improve drainage further.

You can also grow houseplants in water using hydroponic gardening methods. Taking cuttings and using something like this propagation station from Amazon is a good place to start – and it'll soon give you double the plants.

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With their tall, spiky leaves, dragon trees (or Dracaena marginata) might look dramatic, but they're wonderfully easy to grow. They're ideal for beginners, but if you're a seasoned indoor gardener, you'll likely have more than a few in your collection – and you'll know that now is a crucial time when it comes to dragon tree care.

By April, dragon trees are well into their active growth phase. New leaves may be emerging, so it's vital to monitor soil moisture, increase watering frequency, and start fertilizing this month to encourage healthy growth.

Dragon tree plants may not be demanding, but these tasks are the key to ensuring that yours can thrive this spring. (And if you haven't yet added one to your indoor garden, you can pick up a potted dragon tree for just $4.99 at IKEA, or opt for a Costa Farms dragon tree from Wayfair.)

1. Start Watering More Regularly

In the midst of its active growth period, your dragon tree will be getting thirstier – so you'll need to water it more frequently in April.

'One of the main jobs this month is to increase watering to support new growth,' confirms Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'Dragon trees can tolerate some drought, but they don’t cope well with sitting in completely dry soil for too long.'

2. Examine the Soil

Over- and underwatering are some of the biggest reasons why your dragon tree might be drooping at this time of year, so it's important to get moisture levels right. To make life simpler, you might want to invest in a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart.

'I use my soil moisture meter to identify when the top couple of inches of my dragon tree’s soil has dried out before watering,' explains Tenielle.

'Warmer spring temperatures will cause the soil to dry out faster than in winter, so you'll need to water more regularly – but you should also avoid soggy conditions, as these plants are susceptible to root rot.'

3. Start Fertilizing

Like many low-maintenance indoor plants, dragon trees don't need to be fertilized all year round – but spring is the time to feed them.

'I use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer for these plants, applying it every 3-4 weeks during spring and summer,' says Tenielle. Miracle Gro indoor liquid plant food (available at Amazon) is a great all-purpose fertilizer, but you can use specially-formulated dracaena fertilizer (also from Amazon) if you prefer.

'Make sure to pause on fertilizing when fall arrives, as this is when your dragon tree is slowing down for dormancy,' Tenielle advises.

4. Remove Yellow Leaves

Your dragon tree may be beginning to flourish as spring gets underway, but don't panic if you also spot a few struggling leaves.

'It’s not uncommon to spot yellow lower leaves on a dragon tree in spring,' says Tenielle. 'These are plants that shed their oldest leaves in preparation for new growth.'

Dead leaves will naturally drop off, but it's easy to remove them if you want to keep your dragon tree looking neat.

'Yellowing foliage can be unsightly, so I like to remove it,' Tenielle reflects. 'You’ll know if leaves are ready to be removed because they’ll come away easily with a gentle pull. This just tidies up your dragon tree’s appearance and helps it redirect its energy to new growth.'

5. Consider Repotting

Repotting is an essential part of houseplant upkeep. Although dragon trees only need to be repotted every few years, spring is a brilliant time to check it off your list and ensure that your plant can continue to grow steadily into the summer months.

'These plants don’t need repotting often due to their slow growth; I only rehome mine into a larger container every 2-3 years,' says Tenielle.

'However, April is a good opportunity to repot your dragon tree if needed,' she advises. 'This is important to do when its roots become congested and don’t have much more room to grow. Leaving your dragon tree in a too-small pot will stunt its growth, cause discoloring foliage, and risk leaf drop.'

Knowing how to repot a dragon tree can take practice, but transferring it to a larger planter with new soil will promote better drainage and replenish vital nutrients.

What to Shop

Want to expand your dragon tree collection this spring? We asked experts how to propagate a dragon tree – and it couldn't be simpler.

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I've been collecting houseplants for quite a few years now, and there's one task I dread every time: repotting. When I lived in an apartment with no outdoor space, this involved potting mix going all over my floor. But, IKEA has just dropped a super simple product that keeps this task mess-free: the DOFTRIPS potting mat.

In fact, a potting mat is great for both the indoor garden and use in the yard. The IKEA DOFTRIPS potting mat has raised edges that catch compost as you repot plants, sow seeds into trays, and transplant seedlings, so nothing goes to waste. I'm obsessed with the bright red and pink striped pattern, making these jobs feel brighter and even more joyful.

The best part is that it folds away neatly, ideal for space-saving storage if you don't have much room. I'm also reassured by the fact that it only recently launched in the IKEA spring gardening collection and already has a 4-star rating, with shoppers expressing satisfaction over its quality, function, and appearance.

Why Shoppers Love It

The IKEA DOFTRIPS potting mat has high ratings on all categories, including appearance, ease of assembly, product quality, and works as expected.

'I never knew I needed a potting mat, but this is just the right size, and it's durable. Now I can repot in my living room instead of in the garage and clean up easily,' one five-star reviewer writes.

Measuring 22x22 inches, there's no doubt this potting mat is a sufficient size to work with. It's a great compact alternative to a potting bench (like this IKEA NÄMMARÖ potting bench).

The fact that it can be wiped clean easily and then folded up is also a big bonus. Plus, it's bold colors and pattern make it a fun addition to your plant care kit, and it will even look good simply sitting on a shelf in between use.

'This keeps the mess contained and its bright colors make me happy to bring it out,' one shopper writes.

For me, one of the best things about the IKEA DOFTRIPS potting mat is the fact it gathers any compost spillages to reuse, saving waste.

'All the dirt that usually get everywhere when repotting stays contained and it’s easy to dump it into your plant pot from the mat,' another five-star reviewer agrees.

It seems shoppers also love its versatile use, with one person using it as a travel cat litter tray: '[It's] large enough that litter doesn't scatter,' they write.

'This is perfect and so cute. I’m using it to go under my big live Christmas tree in the house,' another person shares.

The one downside to note is that some customers have found it sometimes starts to fold up while in use:

'This doesn’t already come with clips for the corners to hold it open. It keeps folding in on itself,' one person shares.

But this can be easily fixed by using some kitchen clips (like these from Amazon).

The fact that this potting mat is less than $5, saves waste and mess, and looks trendy makes it more than worth it to me.

It's one of the gardening essentials you didn't know you needed, but it makes the simplest of tasks more convenient.

More Indoor Garden Essentials

Alongside repotting, there's much to get done for spring houseplant care this month.

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Our houseplants need a lot of attention come spring, as they're waking from dormancy and beginning to put on lots of new growth. But, it's also one of the times they're most vulnerable to improper growing conditions, like becoming leggy from uneven light. That's why I practice houseplant rotation.

All indoor plants can benefit from houseplant rotation as part of spring houseplant care. It's exactly what it sounds like, turning plants every so often to encourage even, full growth by exposing all sides to sunlight. Not only does it prevent stretched, leggy stems, it also helps keep pests away by strengthening the plant and making it less inhabitable to them.

It really is as simple as turning your plant's pot every so often, taking just seconds at a time. Trust me, houseplant rotation is the quiet trick to a more luscious indoor garden. Here's how it works.

Why Houseplant Rotation is Important

'Plants grow toward light, this is called phototropism. That plant next to your window will stretch and get leggy, lopsided or off balance unless it is rotated and all sides receive sunlight exposure,' explains plant expert and interior plant designer, Shane Pliska

By turning your houseplant pots every week, you ensure all sides are getting light exposure. It's important year-round, but especially in spring and summer when houseplants are actively growing.

'It's an easy way to achieve desirable symmetrical growth,' Shane says.

'Spring is when this really matters. As days get longer, plants go into growth mode. If the light is only hitting one side, that’s the direction they’ll learn toward for the entire season,' he adds.

'The side previously in the shade receives light, which encourages the stem to straighten up and grow more evenly,' adds Halina Shamshur, an expert from Plantum.

'This is especially important for young plants, as it helps them develop a strong, upright structure,' she notes.

There are some added bonuses of houseplant rotation, Halina says:

'Regular rotation also balances soil moisture levels, preventing one side of the root system from becoming dehydrated in the sun,' she says.

As for keeping common houseplant pests away, Shane explains:

'Rotating and moving your plants gives you a reason to inspect the plant for pests, pull any dead leaves, and do some general pruning,' he says.

You should use clean and sharp houseplant snips (like this from Amazon) to remove any damaged foliage, and check out our guides to getting rid of thrips or getting rid of fungus gnats if you do spot any lurking.

How to Practice Houseplant Rotation

While houseplant rotation sounds simple, the experts note it isn't a case of just turning the pots without any thought.

'Don’t turn your plant suddenly by 180 degrees,' Halina warns.

A sudden change in light and warmth could shock your plant, stunt growth, and cause symptoms like drooping or discoloration, including leaf scorch.

'One best practice is to turn your plant a quarter once a week in the spring and early summer. It will help promote even growth,' Shane advises.

What to Shop

FAQs

Do I Need to Rotate My Houseplants in Winter?

Yes, it's just as important to practice houseplant rotation in winter to provide consistent light to your plants. This is especially important because daylight is limited during this season, which can cause plants to become leggy and weak.

As well as practicing houseplant rotation this season, there are also a few things to do with houseplants when you spot new growth in spring.

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When I moved into my first apartment in the city, I knew I would have to get creative with storage – but as a houseplant fan, one of the biggest challenges has been finding ways to display all my plants without taking up too much space.

To prevent my home from becoming an unruly jungle, I've been curating an impressive collection of handy shelving units. These utilize vertical space, which is ideal when every square inch is a luxury – and out of everything I've seen, IKEA's Askholmen plant shelf has to be one of my favorites.

Featuring three handy shelves varying in size, this handsome plant shelf idea has a triangular design which allows it to fit perfectly into awkward spots. You can even make use of it both indoors and outside – but if you're tempted, you'll need to be quick, since it's your last chance to buy it before IKEA's new furniture collections arrive.

Why Vertical Plant Stands are A Great Investment

Anyone hunting for storage ideas will know just how many brilliant options you can find at IKEA, but this one is particularly versatile.

The Askholmen shelf is in fact, designed for outdoor use. (The wood is pre-treated to ensure that it's protected from harsh weather.)

If you're designing a balcony garden or upgrading your small patio, I think this is the perfect choice. It slots perfectly into a corner – or even a narrow space between other shelving units – but it's still wide enough to show off your container plants.

Although I'm eager to give my balcony a makeover now that the warmer weather has arrived, I have in fact reserved a spot for the Askholmen plant stand in my living room.

I love nothing more than decorating with houseplants, but my collection has only grown since I moved into my new apartment, and I've quickly started to run out of space.

To stop the issue from getting out of hand, I've spent a significant amount of time shopping for indoor plant stands and ladder shelves.

Target's metal plant stand is another indoor/outdoor savior, and I love the contemporary aesthetic, but I can't resist the appeal of a classic wooden shelf. (Wayfair's wooden ladder bookcase is a great example.)

Ultimately, I knew that I needed something narrow, and the Askholmen shelf fits the bill. It might not offer me quite as much additional space as, say, an open shelving unit (which I could also pick up from IKEA), but it still allows me to organize my houseplants and ensure that I have a dedicated spot to show them off. Naturally, it's also ideal for trinkets, souvenirs and even books.

Plus, at $39.99, this particular shelf is one of the most budget-friendly options I've seen. (Although Walmart's metal three-tier plant stand is just as impressive, if you're partial to a more industrial look.)

Why Shoppers Love the Askholmen Plant Stand

If you're on the fence about investing in a plant stand like this one, it's safe to say that shoppers see it as a worthwhile purchase.

'It looks like this is a "last chance to buy", and if it's still available don't sleep on it,' urges one customer. 'It's sturdy, easy to assemble and fits perfectly in a corner.'

'Can't believe the low price for how awesome this is,' reads another review, while one particularly enthusiastic shopper says that they bought multiple Askholmen shelves at once.

'These were easy to put together and they look great in my house,' they explain.

More Plant Shelf Inspiration

Whether you have a sprawling apartment or a tiny home, there's always an opportunity to add more houseplants to your collection. If you're in need of inspiration, we've rounded up the best places to buy houseplants, and we also asked experts to weigh in on the best indoor plants to choose.

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If you're a houseplant enthusiast, you'll likely be familiar with the fiddle leaf fig, but you might not know quite as much about a different type of ficus plant: the ficus audrey.

While the ficus audrey is closely related to the fiddle leaf fig, it has a few fundamental differences. Unlike the huge, glossy leaves of the fiddle leaf fig, for example, the ficus audrey boasts smaller leaves with a more vibrant hue and a slightly velvety texture. Fiddle leaf figs can be notoriously tricky – but if you happen to be apprehensive about how to care for a fiddle leaf fig, the ficus audrey is known to be a more forgiving indoor plant.

Below, our resident houseplant expert explains how to grow and care for an ficus audrey, giving you all the knowledge you need to help this often-overlooked plant thrive. (You can pick one up from Amazon if you haven't got your hands on a ficus audrey just yet.)

Place Your Plant in Bright, Indirect Light

'Ficus audrey plants do best in bright light – ideally 6 to 8 hours,' comments Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'They're thought to be less troublesome than a fiddle leaf fig, so they're a great option for novice houseplant owners.' Ficus plants are hugely popular right now; the genus was, in fact, awarded the title of houseplant of the year for 2026 by the National Garden Bureau.

While the ficus audrey is a lesser-known – and lower-maintenance – alternative to species like the fiddle leaf fig, you'll still need to think carefully about where to place your plant.

'It should be kept out of direct sun, as it has sensitive leaves that may experience leaf scorch and discoloration,' says Tenielle. 'I recommend an east or west-facing window.'

Humidity is another important factor; the ficus audrey thrives in moderate humidity, usually between 30 and 60%.

Choose the Right Soil Type

If you've ever tried to master the art of watering a fiddle leaf fig, you'll know that ficus plants can be fickle – and when it comes to moisture levels, they require well-draining soil and a consistent watering schedule.

'Just like the fiddle leaf fig, the ficus audrey doesn’t like soggy conditions,' warns Tenielle. 'It's best to check soil regularly; when the top 2-3 inches of your plant’s soil has dried out, you can water again.' A soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart, will help you keep things in check.

'Although it is considered more drought-tolerant than a fiddle leaf fig, the ficus audrey shouldn’t be left to sit in dry soil for too long,' says Tenielle. 'It may experience leaf drop, which can be caused either by the leaves drying out or the roots being overwatered. So, careful watering is crucial.'

Make Sure to Fertilize in Spring

It can be tricky to know how to fertilize your houseplants, but like many low-maintenance indoor plants, the ficus audrey doesn't need to be fertilized all year round. You will, however, need to feed it in the springtime.

'From spring to fall, a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer can boost your ficus audrey’s growth,' explains Tenielle. 'For reference, the ficus audrey is a more compact alternative to the fiddle leaf fig, so it won't end up quite as tall – but you'll still want to ensure it can thrive, and fertilizer is vital.'

You can use a specially-formulated ficus fertilizer, or go for an all-purpose option like the Miracle Gro indoor liquid plant food (available at Amazon). Whatever you choose, Tenielle recommends 'diluting it in water and applying every 3-4 weeks.'

'Just make sure to pause on fertilizing once fall arrives to avoid root burn and oversaturation', she adds.

Clean the Leaves Regularly

Once you've fed your plant and settled on the right levels of light, moisture and humidity, regular maintenance is vital – and this means remembering to clean the leaves.

'The ficus audrey has long, oval-shaped foliage that can collect dust and block pores,' explains Tenielle. 'With a soft microfiber cloth, you can gently wipe them to remove the dust. This will make it easier for your ficus audrey to perform essential plant processes, like photosynthesis.'

You can invest in a pair of microfiber dusting gloves, like these ones from Amazon, or simply use microfiber cleaning cloths, which you can find at Walmart. You'll also find another handsome ficus audrey at Lively Root.

What to Shop

Want to add yet another ficus to your collection? Try the weeping fig plant; it's one of the best low-maintenance indoor trees.

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Nostalgia houseplants are defining indoor garden trends of 2026 with the likes of bold foliage and tropical maximalism turning our living spaces into an '80s paradise. But, I've been struggling to find the right vessel to house my plants and bring this retro look together – that was until I stumbled across the IKEA HASSELBUKETT plant pot.

I just know my indoor plants will have an instant '80s feel with the playful ribbed shape and reactive glaze of the IKEA HASSELBUKETT plant pot. The rusty orange hue is synonymous with earthy tones that carried over from '70s interiors trends, making a natural backdrop to bright green foliage.

Made from durable stoneware, I know it will last for years of use, which is a steal at less than $9. I also feel reassured by the fact it only just launched in the IKEA spring gardening collection but already has a 4.9-star rating. So, if you're keen to turn your living room into a blast from the past, this cool little planter is a great place to start.

What Shoppers Say

There's no doubt shoppers of the IKEA HASSBUKETT plant pot are pleased with their purchase.

The plant pot has a 4.6+ rating for all categories, including appearance, product quality, value for money, and works as expected.

'So pleased with this purchase. This pot reminds me of something you’d find at a vintage store,' one reviewer writes.

'The quality is excellent and blends well with my antique pots,' they add.

Other shoppers have also commented this pot is a 'beautiful decorative piece' and is 'ideal for indoor plants and decoration. It combines well with other vases in different colors.'

There are only a couple of downsides to note: it only comes in one size (4 3/4") and doesn't have drainage holes.

It's a great choice of planter for small and medium plants for this reason, but you will need to upgrade to a larger planter as your houseplants grow bigger.

The good news, however, is that there are other planters of the same style in larger sizes, for example the beige speckled IKEA HASSELBUKETT at 7 1/2" and the green-brown IKEA HASSELBUCKETT at 6".

As for a lack of drainage holes, this requires some careful houseplant watering. It's fine to use planters without drainage holes, but I recommend referring to a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to determine when it's time to water your plants and avoid overwatering.

'80s Plants to Pair it With

Some of the best nostalgic plants to pair with the IKEA HASSELBUCKETT plant pot are those that will give you a hit of the '80s.

This includes some of the best tropical indoor plants, like a rubber plant (from Lowe's), areca palm (from Amazon), and indoor ferns (like this Boston fern from The Sill).

Spider plants are another classic choice, as well as bold indoor flowering plants like anthuriums and peace lilies (which is available on Amazon).

Style your houseplants in groups to get instant impact and a maximalist look.

What to Shop

If you're looking for more ways to elevate your indoor garden, check out our guide to houseplant trends 2026.

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Not only do our gardens burst into life in spring, but our houseplants also wake up. One plant give some attention in April is your rubber plant (Ficus elastica). From pruning to encourage fuller growth, to fertilizing, and cleaning its foliage, there's much to be done this month to set your rubber plant up for a productive season.

I've been growing my rubber plant for a few years now (I actually have a variegated rubber plant, like this from Lowe's), and the one thing to always boost its growth is pruning in spring, alongside adjusting care for the warmer and brighter conditions. In fact, neglecting to do these things in April can result in minimal growth for the season.

Luckily, it's quick and straightforward to provide what your rubber plant needs in April. Here are five easy tasks to do this month.

1. Prune Your Rubber Plant

If you want to make your rubber plant bushy, pick up your pruning shears (I find bypass pruning shears, like these from Amazon, are best for the thicker stems of a rubber plant).

By pruning your rubber plant above a leaf node on the main stem, you can encourage outward branching. In the long-term, it encourages fuller, lateral growth, rather than just upward growth.

When doing this, you should follow the one third pruning rule to ensure you don't send your plant into shock and stunt its growth.

Don't throw away the top piece of stem you throw away, either. You can pop it in potting soil to propagate your rubber plant. I like to use a rooting hormone (like this rooting hormone powder on Amazon) for these plants, as they're woodier and slower to establish.

2. Start Fertilizing Your Rubber Plant

As soon as I see signs of life in my rubber plant in spring, I pick up my houseplant fertilizer (this one at Walmart is a good choice).

Rubber plants are heavy feeders, so the essential plant nutrients in the soil deplete quickly during the active growth season.

By topping up with fertilizer every 4-6 weeks during spring and summer, you can support the growth it's putting on and the energy it's using up.

Take care not to overfeed your rubber plant, however. This might cause root burn, which can give your rubber plant brown, crispy leaves.

3. Clean Your Rubber Plant's Leaves

I love my rubber plant for its large paddle leaves, but this is also somewhere dust gather quickly.

It's important to clean your houseplant leaves and not leave the dust on the foliage. It can block the pores and hinder essential plant processes, like photosynthesis, impacting growth as a result.

It's also key to keep foliage clean to keep common houseplant pests away, including spider mites and thrips who thrive in these conditions.

I use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon), but you can also use a microfiber cloth to gently wipe your rubber plant's leaves.

4. Increase Watering Your Rubber Plant

As temperatures warm up, your rubber plant will become thirstier and its soil will dry out sooner. If you don't increase your watering frequency, you could see your rubber plant drop leaves and droop.

I always use my soil moisture meter (available on Amazon) to check how wet my rubber plant's soil is before watering. When the top couple of inches are dry, it's time to water.

Overwatering can cause rubber plants to experience houseplant root rot, which may cause discoloring foliage, dropping leaves, and the gradual decline of the plant.

5. Move Your Rubber Plant Away from Sunny Windows

As part of winter houseplant care, you might have moved your rubber plant closer to windows as daylight is much more limited during these months.

However, as the sun returns, it's key to keep these plants out of direct sun. Their sensitive foliage can cause leaf scorch, discoloring their leaves.

More specifically, your rubber plant shouldn't sit by a south-facing window during spring and summer. But, don't put it in a too little light spot, either, as it will struggle to thrive and growth will significantly slow down.

Optimal light exposure is 6-8 hours of bright, indirect light daily. A west-facing window is ideal, but you can also use sheer curtains (like these from Wayfair) to filter intense direct sun.

What to Shop

FAQs

Can I Propagate My Rubber Plant in Spring?

Yes, spring is an optimal time to propagate your rubber plant via stem cuttings. You can make use of the warmer temperatures and increased daylight to encourage rooting. At the same time, taking cuttings will encourage new (and fuller) growth on the original plant.

Make sure to also read up on spring houseplant care this month to set your indoor garden up for success.

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By the time spring rolls around, there's a lot of new growth in my indoor garden. Warmer room temperatures and sunnier days are encouraging my plants to grow bigger, so I'm using it to my advantage and propagating the easiest houseplants cuttings to take in April.

This is a great month to experiment with propagation as many of the best indoor plants are full of energy and easy to root. Some of the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings this month include the spider plant (which you can purchase in a decorative pot from Amazon) and the lesser known peperomia.

The best part is it's super low-effort to propagate these cuttings – just put them in soil or water and watch them root. Here, with insights from experts, I talk though seven houseplant cuttings to take in April for brand new houseplants by the end of the month.

7 Houseplants Cuttings to Take in April

Before you get started with these houseplants cuttings to take in April, you need to make sure you have the right kit to hand.

Houseplant snips (like these from Amazon) have small blades ideal for precise cuts. They should always be clean to prevent the spread of plant pests and diseases.

If you're going to use water propagation methods, I recommend getting yourself a clear vessel propagation station (like the pretty wall hanging one from Wayfair), which allows you to easily observe root growth.

If you're rooting cuttings in soil, always use a well-draining houseplant potting mix (like this from Lowe's). Outdoor potting mix and compost can be too dense for these indoor plants and may attract fungus gnats and other pests, due to the excess moisture they hold.

1. Spider Plant

'The spider plant is by far the easiest plant you’ll ever propagate,' says plant expert and interior plant designer, Shane Pliska. 'The 'mother plant' gives you a fully formed 'baby' that can be turned into a brand new plant,' he describes.

Mature spider plants will very quickly put out long stems with these offshoots (or 'spiderettes') attached. It's then a case of taking your pruning snips, removing the baby plant from the stem, and potting it up.

'Spider plants like moisture when rooting, so if the roots on the baby plant are not well developed you can set it on top of a glass of water to root first,' Shane advises.

When propagating your spider plant, ensure to provide plenty of bright light to encourage faster rooting.

2. Tradescantia

I love propagating my tradescantia because it honestly takes just days for roots to emerge.

Whether you grow a tradescantia 'Zebrina', tradescantia 'Nanouk' (available at Lowe's), or anther variety, these are houseplant cuttings to take in April that will give you new plants in just a few weeks.

You should take a few cuttings at a time for a fuller plant. Make sure to cut just below a leaf node (where roots will develop).

'I usually take slightly longer pieces, around four or five inches, since they establish faster once planted compared to very short cuttings,' advises Adrian Aviles, plant expert and Owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop.

Remove the lower leaves on your cuttings and plant them straight into houseplant potting mix.

Maintain consistent moisture (avoiding sogginess as these plants are susceptible to houseplant root rot) and a bright position, and you'll soon have an established new plant.

Word of warning: these plants are sensitive to direct sun and can experience leaf scorch on their iconic foliage.

3. Ivy

If you want to maximize your vertical indoor garden space, then take ivy cuttings this month. You can style ivy houseplants in hanging baskets or elevated on a shelf, cascading down elegantly.

Ivy is easy to care for and it's even easier to grow ivy from cuttings.

Simply take a handful of stem cuttings (ideally six inches long), cutting above a leaf node where you see lots of small bumps – these are premature aerial roots which give you cuttings a better chance of rooting successfully.

I personally like to root ivy cuttings directly in potting soil, as I find it more convenient than having to transplant water-rooted cuttings. However, it is just as quick and easy to propagate ivy in water.

Just take care to avoid water propagation mistakes, for example by refreshing the water regularly.

Find an ivy houseplant in a decorative pot on Amazon.

4. Pothos

Another indoor hanging plant to take cuttings from this month is pothos. You can take cuttings from any pothos varieties in April, including 'Marble Queen' pothos from The Sill).

'Pothos is an enjoyable plant to propagate because it shows results relatively quickly and the cuttings can be displayed in an artful way on a windowsill,' Shane says.

'To propagate pothos, take a cutting with a node (this is a little growth where roots form) and drop it in a glass of water in a sunny location.

'The better the light the quicker the growth. Change the water occasionally to keep it clear, not cloudy. Then once roots develop, transfer the cutting into moist soil to continue growing,' Shane advises.

My top tip is to place your pothos cuttings in the same vessel as other cuttings. They release auxins which act as a natural rooting hormone, speeding up houseplant propagation.

This beaker-style propagation station on Amazon could even turn your pothos cuttings into a table centerpiece.

5. Peperomia

'Peperomia is not mentioned as often, but it has been reliable for me,' says Adrian.

You can use leaf cuttings to propagate these beautiful plants. It's often best to pop them directly into potting soil, rather than water.

'When propagating peperomia, I have had better results letting the cut end dry a bit before putting it into soil, otherwise it can rot early on,' he advises.

This process allows the cutting to form a protective callus, making propagation much more successful.

You should use methods to increase humidity for indoor plants when rooting peperomia cuttings. For example, you can place these cuttings on a pebble humidity tray from Amazon.

There are so many types of peperomia to choose from, including this 'Ripple Red' peperomia on Amazon and 'Piccolo Banda' peperomia on Walmart.

6. Jade Plant

It might seem intimidating to propagate succulents, but jade plants are one of the easier types to multiply, especially in spring.

'Jade is my favorite to propagate because it's easy to do, even though it takes a little longer than others,' says Shane.

When propagating a jade plant, Shane advises:

'Start with a branch or stem, rather than a single leaf, as it's much more rewarding and gives you instant gratification.

'Once the stem is cut, let it callus over in a dry place for a few days, as this will prevent the stem from rotting when you plant it.'

It's best to then place the cutting in soil, rather than water as jade plant roots can rot easily.

'Place the jade plant in bright direct light,' Shane says. Though, you should take care to acclimate it to this position, as jade plants can turn red from sunburn.

Find a mature jade plant to propagate at Lowe's.

7. Monstera

While it can be more instant to propagate a monstera through division, you can also root monstera cuttings in water.

This goes for the largest varieties, like Monstera deliciosa (from The Sill), and smaller varieties, like Monstera adansonii (from Amazon).

You should take cuttings of stems with at least one node, identifiable as a bump. For larger varieties with thicket stems like Monstera deliciosa, you may need to use bypass pruning shears (from Amazon).

Pop the cutting in a jar of water and place it somewhere bright and warm. Once the roots are 2-4 inches long, you can pot up your cuttings to create a brand new plant.

I actually find monstera cuttings in large mason jars (like this from Walmart) create botanical art for the home. You can style them on your windowsills or on tables to create some green interest.

What to Shop

FAQs

Can I Propagate My Peace Lily in April?

Whether you can propagate your peace lily in April depends on whether it's flowering. If it is, it's best to wait until it finishes blooming to divide your peace lily. If it isn't yet flowering, you can divide it in April to make use of its active growth energy and multiply your plants.

As well as these houseplant cuttings to take in April, make sure to read up on other essential spring houseplant care tasks.

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I used to think my houseplants just weren’t thriving because my apartment wasn’t ideal for them. Not enough light in one corner, too much in another, the occasional missed watering – there was always something to blame.

But looking back, the real issue was much simpler: they had nothing to grow against.

My hanging plants, in particular, were starting to look a little tired. Stems were stretching longer but thinner, leaves were becoming sparse, and everything felt slightly chaotic – more 'overgrown' than intentionally styled. So instead of replacing them (which was my usual solution), I tried something different: I introduced structure.

Enter IKEA’s DOFTRIPS mini plant trellis set. It seemed like a small, almost inconsequential addition – but it ended up completely changing both the health and the aesthetic of my indoor garden.

Why Indoor Plants Need Structure More Than We Realize

It’s easy to forget that many of our most popular indoor plants aren’t naturally compact or trailing – they’re climbers.

In the wild, plants like pothos and philodendrons attach themselves to tree trunks, growing upward toward the light. That vertical movement isn’t just a preference; it’s part of how they develop stronger stems and larger, more evenly spaced leaves. Without that support indoors, they tend to do the opposite. They sprawl. They stretch. They lose shape.

Tenielle Jordison, Garden Content Editor at Homes & Gardens, notes that adding a bit of height is transformative. 'Supporting climbing houseplants with a trellis or moss pole isn’t just about aesthetics – it’s about mimicking the wild,' she explains. 'By recreating their natural conditions, you’ll see stronger growth and more balanced leaf development. The plant feels more at home with a trellis.'

Why Choose the IKEA DOFTRIPS Trellis?

The DOFTRIPS trellises come as a pair of slim, powder-coated steel designs that feel different without clashing. One has a clean, curved shape that’s a bit more structured, while the other leans slightly more relaxed and decorative. They’re subtle enough to blend into the plant, but sturdy enough to actually guide growth – so they’re not just there for looks.

What stands out most, though, is the scale. In a smaller space, a bulky moss pole can easily take over a pot. These don’t. They sit neatly in the soil, giving support without overwhelming the plant or throwing off the proportions.

From a styling perspective, they just make sense. They handle the practical side of plant care while still looking intentional – like part of the design, not an afterthought. It’s a simple upgrade, but one that makes a noticeable difference right away.

Ideal For Small-Space And Indoor Gardening

Another reason I’ve found myself reaching for these repeatedly is their adaptability.

There’s no installation required – you place them into the soil and adjust as your plant grows. I’ve moved mine between pots, experimented with different placements, and even used both in a single container for a fuller effect.

For anyone with a small garden or who lives in a home with limited square footage, this flexibility is key. You don’t need large-scale solutions to make a visible impact – just thoughtful ones.

Shop Alternative Plant Trellises

For something so simple and inexpensive, this mini trellis set does a lot of heavy lifting. It helps plants grow the way they’re meant to, gives them a cleaner, more structured shape, and makes them look far more at home in your space.

If your plants are starting to sprawl, look a bit thin, or just feel unfinished, this is a straightforward way to bring them back into shape – no replacements needed.

It’s also changed how I think about caring for my plants. I’m not just trying to keep them alive anymore – I’m paying attention to how they grow and how they actually look in a room.

The joys of being a devoted houseplant parent mean checking underneath leaves regularly for any lurking pests. Spring in particular is when many of them become active, so I'm on the hunt for organic solutions to get rid of them before they destroy my indoor garden – like neem oil spray.

You may have already heard of using neem oil on plants in the garden. It's a natural product that can get rid of aphids, scale insects, Japanese beetles, and common houseplant pests. More specifically, products like this Amazon houseplant neem oil spray can be applied to indoor plants under the attack of thrips, spider mites, fungus gnats, and more.

This Amazon houseplant neem oil spray is a top choice with a 4.5-star rating, and is part of Amazon's Spring Sale. Shoppers who have tried it out say, 'This neem oil spray works extremely well for fungus gnat control. It has great smell.' The biggest reassurance for me is knowing this is an eco-friendly alternative to pesticides and won't harm my houseplants' health.

The Benefits of Using Neem Oil on Houseplants

Neem oil is a natural pest control solution that gets rid of pests very quickly.

You can spray it on houseplant foliage when you spot destructive critters like thrips, spider mites, aphids, gnats, and more, and it will kill them.

In fact, you can even use it as a precaution because its scent acts as a repellent, safeguarding your houseplants before pests even arrive.

The added bonus is that it leaves your plants looking luscious, especially those with showy foliage like monsteras. Just like leaf shine (like this from Walmart), neem oil helps clean houseplant foliage and gives it a glossy finish.

Having said that, you do need to be careful not to overapply neem oil and only use it when necessary. It can cause a build-up that suffocates plants, blocks pores, and makes them sensitive to direct sun, sometimes resulting in leaf scorch.

Top tip: for a more gentle application, spray neem oil onto a microfiber cloth (like these from Walmart) and wipe foliage carefully.

What Shoppers Say

It can feel daunting to spray products on houseplants, but shoppers who have used this Amazon houseplant neem oil spray say they felt safe using it on their indoor garden.

'A must for houseplants, works great and smells really good! It's a pest control spray that also works as leaf shine,' one five-star reviewer writes.

It's clear from the reviews that this neem oil gets to work quickly.

'Within five minutes of spraying the plants, the gnats were dead,' one person describes.

'It’s very effective at making my plants look nice and shiny, and I don’t seem to have any pest issues. Definitely works on spider mites. I’d purchase it again!' another shopper shares.

Customers also put my concerns for an unpleasant scent to rest, as they describe: 'You won't even know it has neem oil, it smells just like clove.'

This is likely thanks to the fact this Amazon houseplant neem oil has eight additional essential oils. This includes tea tree, clove, sage, thyme, cedarwood, lemongrass, peppermint, garlic, and capsicum – many of which are scents that repel pests, strengthening its pest control qualities.

Something else to note about this particular neem oil product is the fact it comes in a spray bottle.

'It sprays a very fine mist so all you have to do is mist the leaves front and back and leave it. No need to wipe if the leaves are smaller,' one shopper describes.

You can also purchase non-spray concentrated neem oil products (like this one on Amazon) to mix into a homemade bug spray solution. But, there's no doubt that it's more convenient to use this pre-mixed, ready-to-spray product.

Of course, one of the best parts about the Amazon houseplant neem oil spray is the fact it's organic.

'I especially love that it’s made with natural ingredients and free of harsh chemicals. Excellent quality and truly essential for anyone with houseplants,' one satisfied shopper writes.

Perhaps the only downside to note is that neem oil can be irritating on the skin:

'I would recommend wearing gloves when spraying it, because it left a tingly sensation on my skin that came in contact with the solution. I washed my hands right away and that went away,' a reviewer advises.

It's true some people experience minor irritation with neem oil, but this is easily avoidable with careful use and protective wear, like these rubber gloves at Walmart.

For just $19.95 (currently $16.96 in Amazon's Big Spring Sale), this neem oil spray seems more than worth it – especially if it means I'm saving hundreds on replacing pest-ridden houseplants.

FAQs

Does Neem Oil Harm Pollinators?

When used correctly, neem oil is considered to have low-toxicity to beneficial insects and pollinators. However, there are some environmental concerns around using it incorrectly. For example, you shouldn't directly spray it on flowers because it heightens the risk of pollinators becoming coated in it. Likewise, it's best to dilute it. In a houseplant capacity, however, it is contained indoors where it can't harm pollinators and helps get rid of pests efficiently.

Shop More Non-Toxic Ideas

If being an organic gardener is something you want to prioritize this year, check out our guide to eco-friendly garden ideas for more inspiration.

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March is a key month for your Easter cactus. After the quiet winter, buds start to swell, and flowers begin to open, transforming a simple windowsill pot into something truly spectacular.

It’s the plant’s moment to shine – but it’s also a delicate time. Handle it too much, and buds may drop; neglect it, and it can end up looking tired or underwhelming.

With the right Easter cactus care, you can support healthy growth and enjoy a vibrant, long-lasting bloom. Focusing on light, water, temperature, and gentle feeding will help your cactus reach its full flowering potential, keeping it strong now and setting it up for next year’s display.

1. Let the Light In – But Avoid Harsh Sun

March is all about light for your Easter cactus. These indoor flowering plants need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive – an east-facing window or a spot with soft, filtered spring light is ideal.

Too much direct sun can scorch the fleshy segments, leaving them pale or spotted, while too little light can cause buds to fail or flowers to open small and weak.

Take a few days to observe your plant. If the segments look a little droopy or dull, gently move them closer to the light, but avoid full glare. With this simple step, you can grow cacti successfully indoors and give your Easter cactus the best chance of producing a vibrant, long-lasting bloom that really steals the show.

You can also use a Clip Grow Light from Amazon to ensure your plant achieves optimum light levels.

2. Water Thoughtfully – More Often, But Carefully

Unlike desert cacti, Easter cacti thrive on consistent moisture, especially while they’re in bloom.

Getting the watering right at this stage can make all the difference. Check the top inch of soil daily – when it feels dry, water thoroughly so the soil is evenly moist but never soggy. Always ensure excess water drains freely, and avoid letting the pot sit in standing water, which is a fast track to houseplant root rot.

A little underwatering is far safer than too much. Drooping segments can usually bounce back, but waterlogged roots rarely recover. For extra peace of mind, a popular choice is the Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon – simple, reliable, and perfect for preventing overwatering. With careful attention, you’ll help your Easter cactus stay healthy and strong, giving it the best chance to produce a long-lasting, vibrant floral display.

3. Leave It Alone Once Buds Form

One of the trickiest parts of March care is knowing when to step back. Once buds appear, your Easter cactus becomes surprisingly sensitive to movement. Even a small shift – turning the pot, changing its position, or adjusting the light – can cause buds to drop. Think of it like admiring a delicate piece of art: you want to enjoy it without touching.

Leave your cactus in a stable spot and let it do its thing. With a little patience, you’ll be rewarded with fuller, longer-lasting blooms that make all that careful care worthwhile.

4. Maintain Steady Temperatures

Easter cacti thrive in stable indoor temperatures, ideally between 60–75°F (16–24°C). Sudden extremes – like a radiator blasting hot air or a drafty window – can stress the plant, causing buds to drop or flowers to fade prematurely.

A quick check is all you need: if the cactus feels cool to the touch but the segments aren’t wilting, it’s likely comfortable. These plants also love a little extra humidity, which makes them surprisingly good for a bathroom or kitchen environment.

If the air in your home is dry and you don’t have a humidifier, try placing your cactus on this top-rated Amazon pebble tray with a small amount of water – evaporation will gently moisten the surrounding air.

Alternatively, a plant mister, like the one from Target, works just as well to increase humidity and keep your indoor flowering plant happy. With steady temperatures and a touch of moisture in the air, your Easter cactus will stay healthy and bloom beautifully.

5. Begin Feeding – Only After Flowering Fades

While your Easter cactus is in full bloom, it’s best to hold off on fertilizing. Feeding at this stage doesn’t benefit the plant much and can even cause unnecessary stress.

Once the last flowers begin to fade – usually later in March or early April – you can start a gentle, monthly feed using a balanced, diluted houseplant fertilizer. This encourages fresh growth and helps set the plant up for a stronger, more vibrant display next year.

6. Light Pruning Comes Later

March isn’t the time for heavy pruning. At this stage, remove only dead or damaged segments and leave any major shaping until after the flowering period ends. This lets the plant focus its energy on producing blooms rather than regrowth. Pruning once the flowers fade encourages branching, which can lead to fuller, more vibrant flowers next year.

A simple action step: mark your calendar for early April – that’s when you can start pruning and begin a light feeding routine to support new growth. For delicate segments, precise tools make a big difference. The Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears on Amazon are a top-rated choice, easy to handle, and perfect for small cuts. I’ve also found a Succulent Tool Kit invaluable for keeping all my indoor flowering plants healthy and thriving year-round.

March is an important time for your Easter Cactus. Unlike Christmas cacti at this time of year, which are recovering, your plant is in full swing – buds are swelling, flowers are opening, and color is starting to fill your space.

The best thing you can do is to support the display; don’t try to force growth. Keep it in bright, indirect light, water thoughtfully, maintain a steady environment, and resist moving or handling buds.

With a little patience and consistent care, your Easter cactus will shine for weeks, giving you a spectacular spring display. And when the blooms finally fade, that’s your cue to feed, lightly prune, and prepare the plant for next year’s show. Trust the process, and this resilient little cactus will reward you year after year with its star-shaped flowers and cheerful spring presence.

By the time March arrives, your ZZ plant has likely spent winter doing exactly what it does best – holding its shape, keeping its gloss, and asking for very little in return. It’s an undemanding houseplant, but this is the moment when a more considered approach begins to make a visible difference.

As the light shifts and the days draw out, growth resumes at a measured pace. If you’re wondering what to do with a ZZ plant in March, it comes down to refining your ZZ plant care in line with the season. Nothing drastic, nothing forced – just a series of small, well-judged adjustments that encourage stronger, more polished growth in the months ahead.

1. Move it into better light – gently

Light is the defining shift at this point in the year, and your ZZ plant will respond to it quickly. While it’s often labelled an indoor low-light plant, that’s more about tolerance than preference. If it’s been sitting in a dim corner over winter, March is the moment to reposition it – not dramatically, but enough to give it access to better, more consistent light.

What you’re aiming for is bright, indirect light: soft, even, and reliable. A position near a window, filtered by a sheer curtain or set just out of direct sun, works well. Strong, direct rays can scorch the leaves and dull their finish – and with a plant like this, that deep green gloss is exactly what you’re trying to preserve.

2. Rethink Your Watering

This is where a bit of experience really comes into play. In March, your ZZ plant is starting to wake up, but the compost often lags – still cool and slow to dry, particularly in cooler rooms. So while the plant may be ready for a little more water, the soil isn’t always keeping up.

The rule itself doesn’t change: let the soil dry out completely before watering. What shifts is how closely you pay attention. Check more regularly and watch for the point when the soil begins to dry faster – that’s your cue to gradually increase frequency. Water too early, and you risk leaving the roots sitting in cold, damp compost, which is exactly how rot sets in.

For a bit of backup, especially if you’re away or tend to forget, a light-touch setup can help. I use self-watering inserts from IKEA alongside glass watering orbs from Target to keep things steady without overwatering – it keeps moisture levels balanced while still working with the plant’s natural rhythm.

3. Start Feeding Again – With Restraint

March is the perfect time to start feeding your ZZ plants again. These low-maintenance houseplants don’t need much fertilizer, so when it comes to feeding, less is definitely more.

I’d suggest using something like Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Plant Food from Amazon, diluted to half strength and applied once a month. It’s a simple, low-effort way to support fresh growth without overloading the roots or pushing the plant too hard.

In my experience, it’s always safer to underfeed. ZZ plants are naturally adapted to low-nutrient conditions, and overfeeding rarely produces anything elegant – instead, it encourages soft, weak stems that lack the sculptural strength these plants are celebrated for.

4. Clean the Leaves Properly

Cleaning the leaves is often written off as a cosmetic task, but it plays a more important role than that. Over winter, dust settles across the surface, dulling the foliage and limiting how efficiently the plant can photosynthesise, which starts to matter far more as light levels increase in March. A gentle wipe with a soft, damp cloth is usually all it takes to bring it back to full health.

It’s best to avoid leaf shine products. They tend to leave a residue and can interfere with the natural texture of the leaves. A healthy ZZ plant should look naturally glossy and well-kept, not artificially polished.

If you prefer something more convenient, plant cleaning wipes from Southside Plants are a well-rated option, or you can use microfiber dusting gloves, both on Amazon, designed for houseplants, which make it easier to clean multiple leaves without damaging them.

5. Check the Root System – Don’t Assume It Needs Repotting

Spring often brings the instinct to repot, but ZZ plants are slow growers with thick, water-storing rhizomes that actually prefer a snug, slightly confined space. If you lift the plant and see firm, pale rhizomes with a little soil still clinging to them, there’s no need to move it.

Repot only if the pot is completely full and drying out unusually fast – then moving up just one size is enough. Be careful with overly large pots: extra soil holds moisture for longer, which can increase the risk of rot, especially early in the season when the plant is just starting to use water consistently.

6. Tidy, Don’t Prune

ZZ plants don’t require shaping, and unlike many other houseplants, cutting them back won’t encourage bushier growth. What you can do is remove anything that’s clearly past its prime – yellowing stems, damaged leaves, or any flopped stems. Always cut cleanly at the base. New growth emerges from the rhizomes, not the branches, so partial trimming offers no real benefit.

March is less about the calendar and more about what your ZZ plant is actually doing.

If it’s happy, you’ll start to see new shoots emerging – softer, lighter, and slightly translucent at first. That’s your signal that the plant is actively growing again and beginning to use more water and nutrients. At that point, you can ease up slightly on the caution – not dramatically, but enough to support that growth. If nothing’s happening, the issue is usually light. ZZ plants won’t produce new stems unless they have the energy to sustain them, so it’s often a sign they need a brighter position.

The key is to watch the plant itself. How quickly the soil dries, how the leaves look, whether new growth appears – these are far more reliable cues than the time of year. Conditions vary from home to home, and your care should reflect that.

Handled well, March sets the tone for the months ahead. Give it better light, stay measured with watering, and resist the urge to overdo it. ZZ plants respond best to that kind of steady, controlled care – and the growth you get will be stronger for it.

I'm an avid houseplant collector whose indoor garden simply can't get big enough. Not only do I always bring a houseplant home from the supermarket, but you'll also find me browsing retailers online in my free time. When it comes to the best places to buy houseplants online, we really are spoilt for choice – especially if you're looking for unique varieties that are hard to find in stores.

You can get the best indoor plants from a wide range of online retailers, including Amazon's houseplant collection and nurseries like The Sill. And while you may feel sceptical about purchasing live plants online, trust me when I say the ones I've bought have always been packaged with care, arrive quickly, and are still growing strong many years later.

So, having tried and tested many online plant retailers for you, I've compiled my expert list of the best places to buy houseplants.

BWH Plant Co.

• Best for: indoor variegated plants

I can never get enough of variegated foliage, bringing color and fun foliage to my interiors.

BWH Plant Co. has one of the best selections of variegated plants I've seen, including the highly sought-after 'Thai Constellation' monstera.

The best part is many of these houseplants are as inexpensive as $20, which is incredibly affordable for such rare varieties.

Just remember to have a bright spot in mind for these colorful plants, as too little light will cause their variegation to fade.

Tip: hit the 'Rare Plants' tab to see all the variegated houseplants in one place, and don't forget to pick up BWH's organic plant food to keep your new plants well-fed.

The Sill

• Best for: unique houseplants to gift

The Sill is one of the US' biggest online houseplant retailers, loved for their colorful and striking houseplants.

They offer some really special varieties that are at mature sizes, including the likes of blue watercolor orchids (like this from The Sill – achieved through a natural dye).

Plus, the plants come in pretty planters with a wide range of color choices, perfect for gifting to green-fingered friends.

I particularly love how they split their indoor plants by category, including pet-safe indoor plants and tall indoor plants, making it easier to find what you're looking for.

Tip: if you're a new houseplant collector, head straight to The Sill's 'Easy-Care' section.

Amazon

• Best for: plants with decorative pots

Amazon might not be the first place you think of when you're searching for houseplants online, but I've been pleasantly surprised on numerous occasions to find the most unusual houseplants on there.

Of course, as a marketplace, Amazon stocks a wide range of nurseries, so you can search by seller for extra reassurance of plant quality. See Costa Farms' Amazon page, for example.

I find Amazon houseplants are all affordable prices for the maturity and height of the plants, just take a look at this 16" tall money tree for $33.99.

They also offer lots of sets of assorted plants, so you get more for your money.

Plus, in my opinion, it's one of the best options for live houseplants that come with their own planter, saving you money and effort in finding pots.

Tip: search 'live houseplant in decorative pot' for the best value for money.

Fast Growing Trees

• Best for: indoor trees

Fast Growing Trees is an online nursery with a wide range of trees and shrubs, including indoor trees.

Here, you can get everything from fiddle leaf figs to rubber plants, all at an impressive mature height, instantly bringing structure to the indoor garden.

Within their indoor plant section, you can filter by characteristics like pet-safe, air-purifying, and even rare varieties.

Tip: if you want lots of greenery in your home, filter for fast-growing indoor plants.

IKEA

• Best for: affordable classic houseplants

Who doesn't love exploring IKEA's houseplant section at the end of a furniture shop? I've bought many houseplants from here because they're affordable, mature in size, and are exceptional quality.

This is a great choice of retailer for houseplants to add instant showy foliage to your home, with IKEA stocking some of the most classic and popular types of plants you know and love.

I actually bought my Monstera deliciosa from IKEA four years ago, and it's now triple the size and has healthy new leaves every year.

Each plant has a helpful care guide sticker too, with symbols telling you about watering and light levels, so there's no guesswork.

Tip: these houseplants come in nursery pots, so don't forget to shop for IKEA planters before checking out.

Tropical Plants of Florida

• Best for: sought-after tropical indoor plants

For those of us living in milder climes, outdoor tropical plants are not an option in the yard. That's why I love collecting tropical houseplants to turn my home into a lush oasis.

Tropical Plants of Florida stocks a wide range of tropical beauties to get your hands on that you might struggle to find in-person elsewhere.

Even better – it's a family farm so purchasing from them helps support this independent nursery.

I like that you can search for plants by type, light, and size, so you can find the right fit for a specific spot in your home.

Tip: don't forget to scroll down on a plant's listing page. You'll find FAQs for that specific plant's care.

Now you know the best places to buy houseplants, you can kickstart you indoor garden. Just take care to read up on indoor plant mistakes to ensure success with your new houseplants.

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If you have a jade plant, March is an exciting month for growth. After the slow, quiet winter, your jade plant (Crassula ovata) is starting to wake up, sending out new buds and readying itself for a season of growth. It’s not about making drastic changes – small, thoughtful adjustments to light, water, and care can make all the difference, giving your plant stronger stems, fuller leaves, and that lush, healthy look we all love.

This is the perfect time to tune into your jade plant's care and rhythm. With a few simple tweaks, you can encourage natural, vibrant growth and prevent common springtime problems before they start. Paying attention now sets the stage for a jade that will thrive through the warmer months, looking its very best in your home.

1. Give It Plenty of Light

Jade plants love bright light, so March is a great time to think about where to place a jade plant in your home.

A sunny windowsill with plenty of indirect light usually works best, and if it can catch a bit of gentle morning sun, even better. Without enough light, your jade can start stretching and producing long, leggy stems that aren’t as strong or attractive.

Tip: If your jade is in a north-facing window or a naturally dark corner, a compact full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon is an easy way to give it the extra brightness it needs. Just a few hours under focused, balanced light can make a real difference, helping your plant stay fuller, sturdier, and less likely to stretch. Pair this with the right placement – closer to a sunny window if possible – and your jade will stay compact, healthy, and looking its best as it springs into growth.

2. Water Thoughtfully

Now that your succulent is waking up, it’s ready for a little more attention and care. Check the top inch or two of soil: if it’s dry, it’s time to water your jade plant. Give it a thorough soak and make sure any excess drains away. Avoid letting the pot sit in water, as jade plants are prone to root rot if left too wet.

Succulents like jade prefer a soak-and-dry routine rather than constant moisture. In March, this usually works out to watering roughly every 1–2 weeks, depending on light, warmth, and how dry your indoor air is.

I’ve been relying on these Amazon iridescent self-watering globes to keep my jade hydrated whenever I’m away – they’re simple, effective, and take the stress out of remembering to water.

3. Feed With Care

After a few quiet months of winter dormancy, your jade is ready for a gentle boost. A mild, balanced fertilizer – especially one formulated for succulents – applied at about half strength every 4–6 weeks will encourage new growth without pushing weak, floppy stems.

A simple rule of thumb: feed in spring and summer, then pause completely during fall and winter. Your jade doesn’t need extra nutrients while it’s resting, and this approach keeps care easy and avoids overfeeding.

For a reliable option, I use Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for Cactus and Succulents. It’s highly rated, easy to use, and works well on all my indoor succulents, including my jade.

4. Shape and Refresh

If your favorite houseplant looks a little leggy or top-heavy after winter, March is a perfect time to prune a jade plant. Trim long stems just above a leaf node to encourage bushier growth and new buds lower down, and make sure to use clean, sharp scissors to avoid damaging the plant.

Repotting tip: If roots are circling the surface or the soil isn’t draining well, it might be time to repot a jade plant into fresh, well-draining succulent mix. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current root ball – jade plants like to feel snug, and even a small adjustment can help them thrive.

5. Watch for Stress Signals

Even with careful attention, your jade plant will sometimes show signs that it needs a little extra help. If the growth starts to look leggy, it usually means it isn’t getting enough light. Leaves that turn yellow or feel soft often point to overwatering, while shriveled or wrinkled leaves are a sign it could use a bit more moisture.

The key is to observe your plant closely and make gradual adjustments – sudden changes can be stressful for it. By paying attention and responding patiently, you’ll set the stage for strong, healthy growth that really thrives through the spring.

March is all about easing your jade out of winter dormancy. A few thoughtful tweaks – adjusting light, water, feeding, and a little shaping – can make a huge difference. With consistent, attentive care now, your jade plant will flourish, giving you a season full of lush, vibrant growth.

If you have a north-facing room that doesn't get much direct light and feels cooler in temperature, you might have written off the idea of growing houseplants. But, what if I told you there are several houseplants that thrive in these gentler conditions? In fact, the likes of ferns, peace lilies, and even palms prefer this environment and will grow exceptionally well here.

Of the best indoor plants, it's not just indoor low light plants that can cope with the dimmer conditions of north-facing rooms. This part of the home can provide sufficient bright, indirect light for plants sensitive to direct sun. I previously lived in an apartment surrounded by buildings and my shaded north-facing room windowsill was covered in vibrant greenery.

Of course, to make these houseplants for north-facing rooms a success, you need to provide the optimal care for them – the good news is they're all pretty low-maintenance. Here are my top five picks for north-facing rooms and how to grow them.

5 Perfect Houseplants for North-Facing Rooms

You have to take into account the room temperature of your north-facing room, too.

If you're surrounded by neighboring buildings, it may feel cooler than average (you can monitor this with a room thermometer from Amazon).

Luckily, many of the below are cold-tolerant houseplants that can cope with chillier room temperatures

1. Ivy

First on the list of houseplants for north-facing rooms is ivy, one of the most resilient indoor trailing plants.

Native to many parts of Europe (including the UK), ivy is extremely adaptable to cooler temperatures and shady conditions. It actually often thrives in darker, wetter environments.

Ideally, even in a north-facing room, ivy should receive at least six hours of indirect light daily. If needed, you can boost light levels with a grow light for houseplants (like this grow light from Amazon).

What you will find is that your ivy grows at a much slower rate in a less sunny position, leaving you with a more compact plant.

You can shop for an ivy plant at Walmart, and a white and green variegated ivy plant on Amazon.

2. Boston Fern

Indoor ferns are some of the most shade-tolerant houseplants, thanks to their native tropical forest floor environment.

Boston fern is one of the best houseplants for north-facing rooms for this reason, greening up the space with its luscious foliage.

In fact, it's best to avoid direct sun with these delicate plants, as it can cause leaf scorch and crisp up their foliage.

Something to be aware of, however, is that it thrives best in temperatures between 60-75°F and in paths of draft you may spot your fern droop and discolor.

If needed, use a seedling heat mat (from Walmart) to boost warmth levels for your fern.

You can find a Boston fern at Lowe's.

3. Peace Lily

You may be surprised to find an indoor flowering plant on this list, but peace lilies are a top choice for north-facing rooms.

This is because they have sensitive flowers and foliage, and you may find a peace lily turn yellow if it grows in a too-bright location. The filtered light of a north-facing room is a better fit for this reason, aligning with their shaded forest habitat.

Peace lilies can even flower in this environment, with consistent bright, indirect light in a north-facing room. Though, it is true you're likely to get more blooms when growing it somewhere brighter.

If your peace lily isn't flowering, try encouraging it with peace lily fertilizer (from Amazon) in spring and summer.

You can find a peace lily at The Sill.

4. ZZ Plant

If you love houseplants with dark foliage, there's no better choice for your north-facing room than a ZZ plant. Even more striking is the Black Raven ZZ plant (available at The Sill).

These decadent beauties can grow well with just six hours of indirect light daily, though they can adapt well to slightly less than this, too.

To properly care for your ZZ plant in your north-facing room, water less frequently than you think. These plants only need top up when their soil has dried out completely between watering.

I rely on my soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to check when my houseplants are ready for watering.

5. Parlor Palm

If you're looking for an indoor tree to place in your north-facing room, turn your attention to the parlor palm.

These charming trees bring texture to interiors and range in height, typically from 2-6ft tall – see this 18" tall parlor palm in a decorative pot on Amazon.

The reason this plant works so well for a north-facing room is because its sensitive to direct light and can turn yellow from leaf scorch.

The dimmer light of a north-facing position is much more gentle on its delicate foliage, mimicking its native habitat in the shaded understory of rainforests.

Something to note is that parlor palms love high humidity (ideally between 50-70%). You can increase humidity for these indoor plants with a pebble humidity tray (from Amazon) or even a humidifier (from Walmart).

This will keep your parlor palm looking vibrant and lush.

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No matter what growing conditions you have in your home, there's a houseplant for every room. There are even houseplants for low humidity if you have particularly warm, dry rooms in your home.

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I've been collecting houseplants for years now and I won't lie, it's addictive. I can't help myself when I go into the garden center or even the supermarket – a new plant has to come home with me. But, after experiencing many failures in these ventures, I now have a list of red flags when buying houseplants I always look out for, including how much the plant has been watered, what state it's in, and even where it's located in the store.

Even if you finally found the indoor plant you've been searching everywhere for, your money is best saved if it has been severely overwatered, is pest-ridden, or has too many yellowing leaves. Don't get me wrong, I've successfully saved a few mistreated houseplants before, but sometimes the situation is too far gone – especially if you want instant healthy greenery in your home and don't have the time to nurture a plant back to life.

So, if you're a novice houseplant owner or haven't had much luck with buying healthy houseplants, keep reading. Here, I talk through my top five houseplant red flags to watch out for.

5 Red Flags When Buying Houseplants

More often than not the reason store-bought houseplants don't last long is because the shop has made indoor plant mistakes without realizing.

From oversaturated roots to insufficient lighting, there are a number of things that can cause the decline of a plant before it's even made it's way into your shopping basket.

1. It's Not From a Plant Specialist

The first red flag when buying houseplants to look out for is where exactly you've found this plant.

If it's from a supermarket or hardware shop, you might find this houseplant hasn't received the specialist care a houseplant store or garden center may offer.

Now, this isn't to say all houseplants from such stores are bad quality – I have a supermarket orchid that has thrived for years on my windowsill (you can even buy moth orchids from Walmart).

Rather, take the setting as a warning to look more closely at the care the plant has received.

Where possible, I like to support independent houseplant shops and nurseries. For example, The Sill has a huge range of houseplants to order online.

2. The Plant is Sitting in Water

Watering houseplants incorrectly is one of the biggest killers of several kinds of houseplants.

I often spot trays of houseplants sitting in pools of water in shops, which can be a red flag when buying houseplants.

This is especially the case for those that like to dry out in between watering, like cactus care, or those that like consistent moisture but are susceptible to root rot, like a fiddle leaf fig.

The risk of oversaturation is bigger if the plants are in nursery pots, which allow plenty of water in via the drainage holes at the bottom.

But, it isn't always a disaster, as bottom watering often helps houseplants soak up just as much water as they need. If they've been sitting in a pool for a prolonged amount of time, however, they can suffer from waterlogged soil.

To check, use your finger to feel the top couple of inches of the plants' soil. If it is soggy and spongey, and you see physical symptoms of overwatering like discolored foliage, it's a sign the houseplant isn't in a good state.

Of course, knowing what the specific plant's watering requirements are will help you determine if this is an issue. Boston ferns (like this one from Lowe's), for example, appreciate consistent moisture levels.

If you want to be extra sure, take your soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon) to the store with you to get a better idea.

3. It Has Powdery Mildew

While shelves packed with lush tropical indoor plants is an exciting sight, it can harness the perfect environment for powdery mildew.

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease identifiable as white-gray powdery spots and patches on foliage. It spreads through air-borne spores, which are more prominent among closely packed plants, reducing airflow and increasing humidity.

It's no uncommon to spot among houseplants in shops, and the problem is it can spread in an instant and be really hard to get rid of entirely.

For this reason, it's a red flag when buying houseplants to spot powdery mildew on foliage. I'm certainly not going to risk bringing an infected plant home to put my other beloved plants at risk.

If you do find powdery mildew on any houseplants you have bought, the best thing to do is isolate it from the rest of your plants and prune the severely damaged foliage.

Some people use a DIY mixture of baking soda and water to treat it, spraying with a plant mister (like this from Amazon).

4. There Are Lots of Yellow Leaves on The Plant

Yellowing and discolored foliage is to be expected at some point or another when caring for houseplants, but it is a major red flag when more than a third of a plant in store is yellow.

It indicates an underlying issue, whether it be a houseplant pest, improper care, or the plant is pot-bound and has stunted growth.

That's not to say plants that look a little worse for wear in store can't be saved – my local garden center has a section for reduced houseplants that need some help, from which I've successfully brought a brown and droopy calathea back to life.

But, you should be aware, it will likely take some time to nurture any sick-looking houseplants back to vigorous growth.

Look on the underside of leaves for any lurking pests, observe if its roots are overcrowded, and look for other symptoms like leaf drop. These things will tell you how easy it will be to revive the plant.

When you do get home, use essential pruning tools (like these houseplant snips from Amazon) to cut away damaged foliage as it won't recover.

However, you should follow the one third pruning rule to not further shock the plant.

Keep it somewhere bright and warm (within its specific requirements, of course), stay on top of watering, and with a little TLC you might just be able to turn it into a healthy plant once again.

5. It's Located Away from Windows

Something else to look out for is where the houseplants in the shop have been kept. If they are located in a dark corner with just artificial lighting to survive, they are likely to be struggling.

Grow lights for houseplants (like this bamboo grow light from Amazon) can supplement natural lighting, especially during winter when days are darker.

However, houseplants growing under artificial lighting full-time are likely to be weaker and you may even spot them growing leggy shoots.

While this doesn't mean they need to be written off completely, it's worth considering that they will need lots of attention and gentle care to make them stronger and more resilient.

Taking them from a low-lit spot in the shop to a bright windowsill at home may shock the plant, cause leaf drop, drooping, and a gradual decline.

Instead, you should acclimate the plant to brighter conditions, for example by first protecting it with a sheer curtain (from Wayfair) and gradually moving it into a brighter spot each week.

Of course, take into consideration the fact there are indoor low light plants that cope with lower light levels much better than others. A ZZ plant (like this one from IKEA) is a good example.

FAQs

Why Isn't My New Houseplant Growing?

Your new houseplant not growing can be a result of a few different things. If it's winter, your houseplant is likely in a dormancy period and won't put out new growth. If, however, it's spring or summer, you should check if the plant is pot-bound or has any pests that have stunted its growth. If the plant seems otherwise healthy, it might just be that it's a slow-growing houseplant that doesn't put on so much growth each year.

Checking for red flags when buying houseplants is just one of the ways the be a better plant parent this year.

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Fiddle leaf figs might be fickle, but they are undeniably majestic plants. If you're wondering how exactly to help yours thrive in March, now is the time to clean, fertilize and repot before the active growth period begins.

With spring on the horizon, fiddle leaf figs are slowly leaving their winter dormancy behind and preparing to flourish once again. This means that maintenance is crucial in March: you'll want to clean the leaves, check for pests, and ensure that your plant is well-fed.

As with many houseplants, the start of spring also serves as an ideal time to conduct a thorough root check and transfer your fiddle leaf fig to a larger pot if necessary. It isn't always easy to grow and care for a fiddle leaf fig, but these simple tasks will help yours to flourish in March. (If you haven't yet added one to your collection, you can pick up a wonderful fiddle leaf fig from Fast Growing Trees.)

1. Start to Fertilize Your Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle leaf figs don't need to be fertilized every month, but it's important to do so during their active growth season – which begins now.

'In March, fiddle leaf figs can be spotted with new leaves emerging,' explains Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'This is the time to start fertilizing them monthly to support their new growth.'

If you're wondering how to fertilize houseplants like fiddle leaf figs, there are a number of different options; if you're after something versatile, go for a general fertilizer like the Miracle Gro indoor liquid plant food, which you can find at Amazon.

'You can use a balanced all-purpose houseplant fertilizer, or you can get specific fiddle leaf fig feeds,' says Tenielle. 'Whatever the case, make sure to follow manufacturer instructions and don't overfertilize your plant, as it can cause brown, crispy leaves and even leaf drop.'

2. Clean the Leaves Carefully

Spring cleaning isn't just for your home; now is the perfect time to give your houseplants a refresh, ensuring that they're pristine and pest-free as they start to grow.

'I always use the start of spring as an opportunity to clean my biggest houseplants' foliage,' says Tenielle. 'You'll be surprised at just how much dust they can gather on their large leaves.'

Dust may sound like a minor issue, but it can lead to more serious developments.

'Leaving this dust on a fiddle leaf fig's foliage can block its pores and hinder its ability to photosynthesize,' explains Tenielle. 'This is especially a problem in early spring as it enters an active growth season.'

3. Check for Pests

While you're sprucing up your fiddle leaf fig, it's a good idea to check for pests like spider mites, mealy bugs and aphids.

'I use houseplant dusting gloves to gently wipe my plants' leaves clean, but you can also use a soft microfiber cloth,' says Tenielle. (You can pick up microfiber dusting gloves for less than $10 at Amazon.)

As you wipe the leaves, look out for any pesky bugs or larger infestations. 'I recommend checking underneath the leaves for any hiding pests and carefully removing them,' says Tenielle.

4. Start Watering More Frequently

After a period of dormancy, it's only natural that your fiddle leaf fig becomes thirstier in the spring – so you'll want to devote more time to watering it in March.

'You'll notice your fiddle leaf fig requires more water as spring temperatures arrive,' says Tenielle. 'To support new growth, it's important to increase watering frequency.'

5. Pay Attention to the Soil

Just as you start to water your fiddle leaf fig more regularly, you'll also need to pay close attention to the soil. This will help you to ensure that moisture levels are balanced and your plant isn't at risk of drying out or beginning to rot.

'Before picking up my watering can, I always use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Walmart) to check how wet my plants' soil is,' says Tenielle. 'This will prevent overwatering.'

The secret? 'When the top couple of inches of fiddle leaf fig's soil is dry, you can add more water,' Tenielle explains. 'However, take care not to let the soil become soggy, as root rot is a common problem with fiddle leaf figs.'

6. Repot if Necessary

Repotting is another essential spring task for any houseplant enthusiast, and spring is the perfect time to check it off your list.

Fiddle leaf figs should be repotted every few years, but you may need to do so earlier if you spot any warning signs while examining the soil. These include roots peeking out of the drainage holes in your container, or creating a tight mass at the bottom.

A root-bound plant requires fresh soil and a bigger pot to continue its growth, so you'll want to transfer it before the spring really gets underway.

Want to fill your home with fiddle leaf plants this spring? We asked experts how to propagate a fiddle leaf fig – and how to properly water a fiddle leaf fig, too.

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March is the time when your Pothos begins to shake off its winter slowdown. The days grow longer, sunlight returns to fill your rooms, and you might notice your leaves subtly unfurling, reaching for the light as if awakening from a long rest.

This is the perfect moment to give your pothos plant care a little extra attention. By adjusting light, watering, feeding, and occasional pruning, you can encourage fuller, more resilient leaves and that rich, glossy green that makes Pothos so rewarding to grow. With mindful care now, your plant will respond with its healthiest, most vibrant foliage yet – a lush, effortless touch of spring greenery that transforms any space.

1. Let There Be Light – Just Enough

In March, the light shifts, and you'll start to notice your Pothos responding to the direction of the sun. A healthy dose of bright, indirect light will be good for your houseplant.

If your pothos is in a north-facing window or a naturally dark room, a compact full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon is an easy fix – it’s a best-seller for a reason. It adds focused, balanced light without taking over your table or shelf.

If you’re wondering where to place a pothos for Feng Shui, an east- or west-facing window tends to work beautifully, giving it those softer morning or late-afternoon rays without the risk of scorching.

If the light is too low, growth can feel slow, and the leaves may lose some of their vibrancy. On the other hand, strong direct sun can be a little too harsh, especially as the days brighten. It’s really about finding that middle ground where the plant feels comfortably lit, not stressed.

2. Water Wisely

Even as your plant starts to wake up, it’s surprisingly easy to give it a little too much attention, especially when it comes to watering. Before you reach for the watering can, take a moment to check the soil. If the top inch feels dry, that’s your cue.

When you do water, give it a proper soak rather than a light splash, and let any excess drain away fully. Pothos really doesn’t like sitting in water – soggy roots are often where problems begin. A popular way to measure water levels is the Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon – it is a simple, reliable, and perfect for preventing overwatering.

As the season moves on, you’ll likely find yourself watering around once a week, but it’s always better to follow what the plant is telling you. Some weeks it may need a little more, others a little less. Keeping an eye on the soil, rather than sticking rigidly to a schedule, makes all the difference.

This plant mister from Target is the exact one I use, and it doubles as a decorative piece when it’s not in action. I also really like the Haws Fazeley Flow watering can from Anthropologie – it’s as practical as it is good-looking, and works just as well indoors as it does out in the garden.

3. Feed Lightly

As your Pothos moves into its growing season, this is a lovely time to give it a gentle boost. Using a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer (I use Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Plant Food from Amazon) once a month is usually all it needs to support fresh growth and keep those leaves looking vibrant.

It’s easy to think more will help, but feeding too heavily can actually do the opposite. Over time, it can lead to soft, leggy growth that doesn’t hold its shape very well. Keeping things light and consistent tends to work best – your Pothos will grow stronger, fuller, and far more balanced as a result.

4. Trim for a Fuller, Bushier Plant

If your Pothos is looking a little stretched or sparse after winter, March is a great time to tidy it up. Trimming back longer vines just above a leaf node encourages new growth to branch out, helping the plant fill in and look much fuller.

It doesn’t take much – a few careful snips can make a noticeable difference. Use sharp, clean scissors so the cuts are neat and heal quickly. With a bit of pruning now, your Pothos will put its energy into fresh, bushier growth and start to look far more balanced again.

5. Repot Only When Needed

March is also a good moment to check whether your Pothos is feeling a little cramped. If you spot roots pushing through the drainage holes or circling the soil surface, it’s usually a sign it’s time to repot a pothos and give it a bit more room to grow.

That said, there’s no need to rush into repotting just for the sake of it. Pothos is quite happy, slightly snug, and moving it too soon can cause unnecessary stress. Waiting until the roots genuinely need the extra space will lead to a smoother transition – and better, steadier growth in the long run.

6. Keep an Eye on Pests

As your Pothos picks up growth, it’s worth keeping an eye out for common houseplant pests. Spider mites, mealybugs, and fungus gnats tend to appear more often as conditions warm up, so it helps to check in regularly, especially under the leaves and along the stems.

If you do spot anything, it’s usually easy to manage early on. A gentle insecticidal soap or a little neem oil is often enough to keep things under control. Good airflow and avoiding overly damp soil will also go a long way in preventing issues in the first place, helping your Pothos stay healthy and thriving.

March is really about setting your Pothos up for the season ahead. Nothing drastic is needed – just a few thoughtful adjustments to light, watering, feeding, and pruning can make a noticeable difference as growth picks up.

Give it that bit of attention now, and you’ll start to see the payoff in stronger, healthier leaves and a fuller, more vibrant plant. By the time spring is in full swing, your Pothos will feel lush, balanced, and full of life – an easy, effortless way to bring greenery into your space.

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Whether you're a houseplant enthusiast or an eager beginner, you might have heard of moss poles – flexible supports that help to guide climbing plants as they grow. The problem is, these handy tools don't tend to be particularly durable, and they're certainly designed for function rather than style.

Admittedly, I didn't know that a chic alternative existed, but I'm delighted to say that I've found one: We the Wild's houseplant grow pole, available at Target, which is crafted from powder-coated steel. This support pole isn't just sturdy; it's undeniably striking, with a mid-century modern look that brings instant flair to even the most humble houseplant.

Why Grow Poles Are Important

'Plant support poles are incredibly important for climbing houseplants,' explains Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'They provide a structure for new growth to climb up, maintaining a strong and healthy silhouette and preventing flopping stems that may break.'

Like a houseplant trellis, a grow pole is designed to train vining plants. Traditionally, grow poles are covered in nutrient-dense materials like moss or coconut fiber, offering plants a source of moisture and a handy support to help them flourish.

'These poles provide an easy way to make your biggest plants (like a monstera) look neater,' says Tenielle. 'Plus, using a plant support pole to hold houseplants upright allows them to reach light more easily and helps keep pests at bay because it improves airflow between foliage.'

Many traditional grow poles can, however, turn out to be rather fragile: while the inner core, usually crafted from plastic, can remain upright, the exterior tends to shed and weaken over time.

The result is a rather poorly-looking pole that isn't anywhere near as handsome as your houseplants themselves.

The Benefits of Metal Grow Poles

Fortunately, options like We the Wild's houseplant grow pole provide the perfect blend of style and practicality. A rust-resistant, powder-coated steel frame means there's no risk of deterioration (though these metal poles can be recycled eventually).

Measuring 11 inches tall, this particular grow pole is slim and lightweight enough to support a variety of houseplants without getting in the way.

Yet it's also something of a fashion statement, with the wavy silhouette creating a playful look. It's worth noting that the bright yellow hue might not be everyone's top choice, but it certainly makes an impact.

Of course, there's no shortage of whimsical houseplant accessories to shop for, whether you treat yourself to a stylish watering can (I love this stainless steel option from Rejuvenation), an elegant mister (like this cut glass mister from Anthropologie), or a set of gorgeous watering globes. (I've had my eye on Terrain's heart-shaped watering globes for months.)

That's to say nothing of statement pots, from ceramic options like Amazon's bubble planter to contemporary alternatives like Mercer41's metal planter.

With all of this in mind, sculptural poles and trellises are usually reserved for sprawling gardens or picture-perfect patios. Yet who's to say that you can't bring a different kind of flair to your indoor plants?

To me, a grow pole like this one is a stylish, sculptural answer to traditional supports. I think it's a wonderful way to add personality to your setup – all while helping your houseplants to grow vertically, without any fuss.

Why Shoppers Love WE THE WILD's Grow Pole

While traditional grow poles seem to remain the more popular choice, We the Wild's metal alternative has received plenty of positive reviews – with an average of 4.6 stars on the Target site.

'This works perfectly for my vine plants,' says one customer, while another describes it as 'super unique and very sturdy'.

'So cute,' says a particularly happy reviewer. 'I love the mid-century modern vibes.'

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If chic grow poles have inspired you to invest in more climbing plants, you might want to check out our vertical indoor garden ideas, to help you create a particularly show-stopping display.

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African violets are some of the most elegant indoor blooms you can grow, and it's exciting to watch them wake up in early spring. There are a few things your African violets need in March for successful and long-lasting blooming, even if you already have flowers emerging.

March is when African violet care ramps up again after winter, with regular feeding beginning, increased watering needed, and there's some essential tidying up and cleaning to do. Missing any of these jobs this month could allow for pest problems to go unnoticed, discoloring foliage, and short-term blooms.

To help you out, I talk through the five things I never miss with African violets in March. Trust me, these quick jobs will set your plant up for a colorful, joyful display this spring and summer, no matter which African violet you have (like this pink one from Walmart, for example).

1. Start Feeding Your African Violet

When it comes to indoor flowering plants, one of the best things you can do is fertilize them to encourage abundant and long-lasting blooms.

Just like fertilizing a peace lily, spring is the time to start fertilizing your African violets as they begin one of their main blooming cycles (also experienced in fall).

You can use a specific African violet liquid feed (from Amazon) which should be diluted with water and applied every 4-6 weeks.

Feeds with 14-12-14 NPK plant fertilizer numbers are recommended as the best houseplant fertilizer for African violets because they encourages continuous blooming and lush foliage.

Take care to avoid fertilizer mistakes (like applying too often) as this can cause root burn and kill off your plant.

2. Move Your African Violet into Bright Light

To help your African violet put on new growth and flourish, you should move it somewhere brighter in March.

However, you should avoid a direct sun position (like a south-facing windowsill) which can cause leaf scorch on this plant's highly sensitive leaves.

An ideal spot would be within a foot of a west-facing or southeast-facing window.

Brighter light as these plants experience a growth spurt will bring out beautiful hues and prolific blooming. It will also encourage compact foliage growth, rather than legginess, helping to make it strong.

If you don't have a bright enough spot for your African violets, use a grow light (like this one with a timer from Amazon).

On the contrary, if you only have really sunny windowsills, consider installing this sheer curtain from Wayfair to protect your African violet's leaves.

3. Gradually Increase Watering

When it comes to watering houseplants, the general rule of thumb is to increase frequency as part of spring houseplant care. This is no different for African violets, which are thirstier in warmer temperatures.

They key with watering African violets is keeping their soil consistently moist. I use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to check the moisture level of my plants' soil before watering.

When the top couple of inches have dried out, you can water your African violet.

But, be aware: watering these blooming plants requires a careful approach.

Due to their sensitivity, it's important not to get their foliage wet – it could cause permanent spotting and crown rot. That's where bottom watering might be preferred.

Likewise, cold water should be avoided, as it can shock the plant and cause symptoms like African violet leaves drooping.

Use this Amazon water thermometer to ensure the water you use on these plants is tepid.

4. Remove Yellowing Foliage

Just like plants to prune in March, it's hugely beneficial to do a bit of tidying up with your African violet this month.

Colder temperatures, limited daylight, and inconsistent moisture levels in winter may have caused some of its leaves to turn yellow.

Removing this damaged and dead plant matter now will redirect your African violet's energy into new growth and flowering.

You may be able to carefully pull off loose foliage, but if it isn't coming away easily you should use clean and sharp houseplant pruning snips (like these from Amazon) to cut at the base of leaves.

Take care to follow the one third pruning rule when doing this, as removing more of the plant may shock it and stunt growth.

This is also a good time to check for houseplant pests, where you should look underneath leaves in particular.

Having said that, African violet's fuzzy foliage does deter the majority of pests, but it's better to check than let a problem go unnoticed.

5. Take African Violet Leaf Cuttings

African violets are one of the plant cuttings to take in March.

While you can propagate African violets by division, this is best done when they become overcrowded with 'suckers.' But, you can take leaf cuttings to root in either water or soil in early spring.

This is a great time of year to do it because you can take advantage of warmer temperatures and bright light to speed up houseplant propagation.

With sharp pruning snips, cut mature leaves with a stem 1-1.5" long. You can then pop the cutting either in a well-draining potting mix or in water.

I like to use a glass vessel propagation station (like this beautiful one from Amazon) to observe root growth when rooting cuttings in water.

These cuttings root fairly quickly, so you should spot new growth (plantlets) within 6-8 weeks.

FAQs

Should You Repot African Violets in March?

Repotting is one of the things African violets need in March if they have outgrown their current container. This is also a good opportunity to give your plant some fresh African violet potting soil (from Amazon), packed with nutrients for their active growth season.

If you're keen to add more indoor plats that flower all year round to your home, consider anthuriums (like this from The Sill) and orchids (like this pink moth orchid from Walmart).

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Spider plants are renowned for being both stylish and easy to look after, but there are still a few essential tasks you'll need to do this month to keep yours looking healthy. In March, spider plants are entering their active growth phase, which means you'll want to start watering them frequently – while prioritizing soil drainage to ensure that your plants don't become waterlogged.

This is also an ideal time to clean your spider plants, examine the roots, and repot them if needed, as well as making sure they can enjoy bright but indirect light in the sunnier days ahead.

Want to know exactly what to do this month? Read on for our ultimate guide to spider plant care in March. (And if you're on the market for one to add to your collection, you can pick up a variegated spider plant at Lively Root.)

1. Start Watering More Often

Spider plants are widely considered some of the best low-maintenance indoor plants, but they do need a little more attention in March.

The most important thing to focus on? Watering, says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'March is an exciting time for spider plants, as they awaken from their winter slumber and enter an active growth season,' she explains. 'As temperatures warm up, you should increase your watering frequency to ensure the soil stays consistently moist.' A soil moisture meter (like this one from Walmart)will help you keep track and adjust levels accordingly.

'Letting your spider plant dry out will result in crinkled foliage,' warns Tenielle. 'But don’t worry, they’re pretty forgiving and will bounce back with a bit of watering.'

This variegated spider plant from The Sill is currently on sale, at $35.

2. Start Fertilizing

Fortunately, fertilizing houseplants isn't a year-round endeavor – especially when it comes to hardy varieties like spider plants – but you will need to do so in spring and summer.

'I recommend starting to fertilize your spider plant this month,' says Tenielle. 'I like to use an all-purpose balanced liquid houseplant feed for my spider plants, which helps encourage the growth of ‘spiderettes’ or baby spider plants. These can later be propagated and grown into brand new plants.'

If you're looking to stock up on plant food, you can find Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food at Amazon.

3. Carefully Clean the Leaves

It's a good idea to clean your houseplants regularly, but if you've found yourself neglecting the task recently, it's particularly useful to check this off your list in March.

If you spot any damage or discoloration, pests like mealybugs could be the culprit. They may well be hiding underneath the leaves; you can use a horticultural oil (like this one from Amazon) to remove them, helping you to ensure that your spider plant is pristine and healthy as spring arrives.

4. Check the Roots

Wondering if your spider plant is starting to outgrow its container? Now is the time to examine the roots and find out.

'Spider plants can become pot-bound after a couple of years, so March is a good time to check in with the roots,' advises Tenielle. 'If they’re starting to wrap around themselves and have formed a hard mass of roots, you'll need to move your spider plant.'

5. Repot if Necessary

It's best to repot your spider plant once every few years, and spring is widely considered the best time to do it.

'Yellowing leaves and a lack of water absorption are signs to look for when identifying if your spider plant needs repotting,' says Tenielle. 'If your plant looks unhappy, it might be time to move it to a bigger pot.'

6. Adjust Locations Based on Sunlight

Spider plants are native to southern Africa, and they thrive in warm areas with plenty of sunlight. However, they are in fact happiest in indirect light – which is worth remembering as sunnier days arrive.

If your spider plant currently graces a windowsill, its leaves could risk being scorched on hot days, so March is a good time to check in and position it somewhere bright but protected.

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Spider plants are perfectly suited to containers, but they look particularly striking in hanging baskets. If you're keen to nurture your own cascading plant, you can check out our guide on how to grow hanging spider plants.

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March is that gentle in-between: the houseplants are stirring from their winter lull, and the days are slowly stretching longer. Your snake plant (Sansevieria, now often called Dracaena trifasciata) is no exception. Unlike some houseplants that burst into growth as soon as spring arrives, snake plants are more subtle – resilient, steady, and quietly elegant. But that doesn’t mean they can’t benefit from a little extra attention.

If you’re wondering what to do with a snake plant in March, a few thoughtful steps in snake plant care can make all the difference. With a little extra light, careful watering, and some seasonal tidying, you can help your plant transition smoothly into spring while keeping it healthy, happy, and looking its absolute best.

1. Let the Light In

One of the simplest ways to give your plant a spring boost is to reassess where to place a snake plant in your home. Over winter, it may have been tucked into a quiet corner, away from chilly drafts or bright windows, just getting by on minimal light.

Now is the perfect moment to move it closer to bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch those elegant, upright leaves, but a well-lit windowsill or a room filled with filtered sunlight will encourage steady growth and bring out the rich, striking patterns of its foliage. Even these masters of low-light survival respond beautifully to a little extra spring sun.

2. Water, But Don’t Overdo It

Snake plants are famous for surviving neglect – sometimes a little too well. The most common mistake is overwatering, so March is the perfect moment to resume a gentle rhythm rather than dousing it in a full hydration push.

When you water a snake plant, check the soil with your finger: if the top couple of inches feel dry, it’s time to give it a drink; if it’s still slightly damp, hold off a little longer. These plants store water in their thick, fleshy leaves, so they thrive on slow, deliberate moisture rather than constant watering. With a little patience, you’ll help your plant wake up from winter and flourish steadily into spring.

3. Give It a Spring Refresh

Over winter, snake plant leaves can collect dust that blocks precious light, so take a moment to gently wipe each one with a soft, damp cloth. This not only restores their glossy, vibrant look but also helps the plant absorb sunlight more efficiently. While you’re at it, check for tired, yellowing, or damaged leaves and snip them off at the base. Removing old growth isn’t just cosmetic – it allows your snake plant to focus energy on fresh, healthy shoots. Think of it as a gentle spring haircut, preparing your plant for the season ahead.

For a fuss-free clean, I love using a dedicated plant cleaning brush like this Indoor Plant Leaf Brush from Amazon, which reaches into crevices and removes dust without damaging delicate leaves. Alternatively, a soft microfiber cloth, such as the Full Circle Plant Microfiber Cloth, works beautifully for more sensitive foliage.

4. Feed a Little, Not Too Much

Spring is a gentle awakening for snake plants, and they benefit from a little extra support as they begin to grow again. In March, you can begin feeding them monthly with a diluted, balanced houseplant fertilizer – half-strength is more than enough.

These slow-growing plants don’t need to be fertilized often, and heavy feeding can actually do more harm than good. A light nutrient boost now helps them build steady, strong growth through spring and summer, without upsetting their natural rhythm.

For easy care, this gentle, All-Purpose Indoor Plant Fertilizer on Amazon is a great option to keep your snake plant healthy, vibrant, and thriving throughout the season. Just a little feed now and then supports steady growth and glossy, strong leaves.

5. Repot Only If Needed

Snake plants actually enjoy being a little snug in their pots, so there’s no need to rush the process. You’ll know it’s time to repot a snake plant if you spot roots poking through the drainage holes, if the soil dries out almost instantly, or if the pot simply feels crowded.

When you do repot, choose just one size larger and use a fast-draining succulent or cactus mix. This keeps the roots from sitting in moisture, which can easily cause rot. It’s all about giving your snake plant a bit more room to grow while keeping it comfortable and thriving.

6. Try a Little Propagation

If you’re feeling adventurous, March is an ideal time to propagate a snake plant. These resilient plants are wonderfully forgiving – you can divide root clumps when repotting, or root individual leaf cuttings in soil or even in water. Growth is slow, but seeing a fresh shoot unfurl is one of those quietly satisfying moments that make plant parenting so rewarding.

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March is all about gentle encouragement rather than dramatic overhauls. A little extra light, carefully timed watering, a seasonal tidy-up, and a light feed are all your snake plant needs to ease gracefully into spring. Give it patience and thoughtful care, and it will repay you with steady growth, glossy, vibrant leaves, and that signature upright elegance that makes it such a timeless and effortlessly stylish addition to any home.

As spring begins, your garden is finally waking up – and so are many of your houseplants. After months spent battling chilly temperatures and feeble winter light, March is the time when plenty of plants are on the brink of blooming once again, and when it comes to peace lilies, March is a particularly pivotal month.

It's important to feed your peace lily, giving it enough sustenance to help it thrive throughout the spring.

According to experts in peace lily care, now is also the time to examine the roots of your peace lily, check for pests, and potentially even repot it. If you're looking for a complete guide to caring for a peace lily this March, read on for our best tips. (And if you haven't added one to your houseplant collection yet, you can pick up an elegant peace lily plant from The Sill.)

1. Feed it Generously

March is a crucial transition period that bridges the gap between those final winter days and the promise of spring. With this in mind, your peace lily will be about to bloom – so it's time to start feeding it.

'By March, peace lilies are getting ready to put on another dazzling display,' says Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at H&G. 'You may spot new flower spikes starting to emerge, alongside lush new foliage.'

As your peace lily prepares to burst into life once again, 'one of the most important things to do this month is to start feeding it,' advises Tenielle.

'I like to use a diluted liquid peace lily fertilizer for an instant boost of essential plant nutrients, applying it once a month.' (If you want to stock up, try this multi-purpose fertilizer concentrate from Amazon.)

2. Check For Pests

March might be a big month for peace lilies, but it's also a brilliant time to perform a few simple checks before yours really comes to life (usually around April).

'I always check for houseplant pests at the start of spring,' says Tenielle. 'With leafy plants like peace lilies, it’s important to look underneath the leaves where pests like spider mites and mealybugs like to hide.'

If you do spot any pests, you may need to remove the leaves.

'Isolate the plant, remove severely infested leaves with sharp houseplant snips, and treat your peace lily accordingly,' recommends Tenielle. (The Fiskars 2" plant snips from Target are a high-quality but budget-friendly option, if you're looking for some new tools.)

3. Take a Look at the Roots

While you're devoting time to inspecting your peace lily, it's worth taking a look at the roots.

A common peace lily mistake is overwatering during winter – when growth naturally slows down – and underwatering in summer. The most effective solution? Paying attention to soil moisture and ensuring that enough water reaches the roots. (A soil meter, like this one from Walmart, is a handy investment, as well as a humidity tray like this one from Amazon.)

Plus, if you're worried about growth, the roots of your peace lily could let you know when it's time to switch things up.

'It might be that your lily has become pot-bound and doesn’t have a lot of room to grow,' says Tenielle. 'Any roots sticking out of drainage holes are a key sign of this.'

4. Repot if Needed

If your peace lily has, in fact, outgrown its container, March provides the perfect opportunity to re-pot.

'I typically find that peace lilies need repotting every couple of years, and early spring is the ideal time to do it,' says Tenielle. 'Gently lift it from its pot, tease the roots apart to loosen them, and repot your peace lily into a planter 1-2 inches larger than its current pot.'

If you want to treat yourself to a new pot, go for something like this floral ceramic planter from Wayfair; with a 6.5-inch diameter, it's a brilliant size for peace lilies.

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Looking for more peace lily tips? Check out our guide on how to water a peace lily, so that you can keep your plant well-hydrated – especially as spring and summer approach.

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Early spring is a crucial time in the houseplant calendar, as plants wake up and prepare for the growing season. After growing houseplants for several years, I now know it's best to get on top of spring care sooner rather than later – I use the first sign of new growth as an indicator.

I'm not talking about general spring houseplant care, but rather a few tricks I do at the very start of spring to set my beloved collection up for lots of healthy, vigorous growth. As soon as you spot new leaves, you should adjust your plant's light, increase watering, and do some selective pruning. Trust me, these things will instantly perk your plants back up after the challenging conditions of winter.

In fact, failing to check in with your houseplants at this time could set them back, for example with dying foliage draining their energy and less-than-ideal conditions hindering growth. Here, with insights from a plant expert, I talk through three things to do with houseplants when you spot new growth in spring.

3 Early Spring Tasks for Your Houseplants

The following list applies to any indoor plant that enters an active growth season in spring.

Though, you should also keep in mind the specific needs of the plants you have and adjust their care accordingly.

1. Move Your Plants Somewhere Brighter

When your houseplants start to display new foliage, you can be certain they are entering an active growth period. To support this, they will need more light than what has been available during the darker days of winter.

'Place your sun-loving plants in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight exposure initially. You need to gradually acclimate them to the bright spring sun to prevent scorching young leaves,' says Halina Shamshur, an expert from Plantum.

'As for indoor low light plants, move them closer to a window, but make sure they aren’t exposed to direct sunlight,' she adds.

Brighter exposure will allow houseplants to perform essential processes, like photosynthesis, which fuels their growth.

If your home is still receiving limited daylight at the tail end of late winter, consider using something like this bamboo grow light from Amazon. I find ones with an automatic timer like this are particularly convenient to use.

2. Gradually Increase Watering

Soil moisture level is always one of the first things I take note of when looking for signs that my houseplants are beginning to wake up.

'Plants need more moisture during their active growth period in spring than during dormancy in winter,' notes Halina.

Warmer room temperatures also contribute to this, drying out the soil much more quickly.

Of course, exactly how much you water your houseplants depends on the specific plant. For example, cacti like to dry out entirely between watering, while ferns need consistent moisture.

With this in mind, you should use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to identify how wet your houseplant's soil and water it accordingly.

Just take care not to increase watering too drastically too quickly, as this can put your plants at risk of houseplant root rot.

3. Remove Damaged and Leggy Growth

If your houseplants look a little worse for wear after winter, don't worry –it's sometimes inevitable.

Fluctuating temperatures, limited daylight, pests, and watering issues can all cause plant leaves to droop and discolor over the winter months. But, your plants can quickly make a recovery now that they're putting on new growth.

'Remove any weak, dry, or leggy stems. This will promote new growth and help them look more lush,' says Halina.

You should use sharp, clean essential pruning tools (like these houseplant snips from Amazon) for this, cutting at the base of leaf stems.

This will redirect the plant's energy into putting on new growth rather than struggling to keep the dying foliage alive.

Likewise, it will discourage houseplant pest presence, as they thrive on decaying and dying plant matter, protecting the new growth your houseplant is working on.

FAQs

Why Isn't My Houseplant Growing New Leaves?

Your houseplant not growing any new leaves could be a symptom of a range of things. It might be that it is simply dormant (typically from fall-winter), or that there's a bigger issue. For example, some houseplants don't like being pot-bound and will stop growing until transplanted into a bigger planter with more room. If your plant also has other symptoms, like yellowing and drooping foliage, it could be a growing environment issue, such as the wrong level of water and light, or even shock from temperature fluctuations. The best thing to do is research the specific plant you have and its needs to diagnose the cause.

Alongside these things to do with houseplants when you spot new growth in spring, you'll also need to be prepared to support climbing plants with a houseplant trellis (like these leaf-shaped houseplant trellises on Amazon) as they grow taller, and don't forget to start feeding your plants monthly from spring-summer (this all-purpose houseplant fertilizer from Amazon is a good choice).

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While you may already know and love the Monstera deliciosa, there's a new variety on the scene looking to claim the title of most collectible houseplant of the year: meet the 'Burle Marx Flame' monstera. The most intriguing thing about this rare variety is not its striking lance-shaped foliage, but the fact that experts have no idea where it comes from.

This monstera was unexpectedly discovered in Brazil back in 1981 amongst the personal collection of landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx, though its exact origin remains a mystery. This rare houseplant is now available to buy (see the Costa Farms 'Burle Marx Flame' monstera on Amazon) and is anticipated to become one of the most sought-after plants to collect in 2026.

Costa Farms horticulturist Justin Hancock explains Roberto 'didn’t seem to record the origin of this plant [but] even though we don’t know its history, it’s undeniably beautiful with finely cut, flame-like mature leaves that give it a distinctive look and texture.'

An Unknown History

Roberto Burle Marx was a landscape architect based in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. He kept an expansive personal collection of tropical plants, which is where 'Burle Marx Flame' monstera was discovered in the 80s.

'We’re unsure if it’s an otherwise-yet-undiscovered species he found, if it’s a hybrid between two different monstera varieties, or if it’s a mutation of Monstera deliciosa (or another species),' Justin explains.

Whatever the case, it's an undeniably striking unusual houseplant to add to your indoor garden, with slender leaves and fenestrations that give it a unique-yet-recognizable silhouette – you can also find 'Burle Marx Flame' available to purchase at Lowe's.

Its Signature Look

'As the plant matures, the leaves go from narrow and lance-shaped to heart-shaped with deep cuts, giving the foliage its signature flame-like look,' Justin describes.

Just like other monsteras, this foliar transformation comes with maturity. But, if your monstera lacks fenestrations, Justin says it's down to improper growing conditions.

'Good growing conditions are key – the happier it is, the faster it will grow and the more quickly its leaves will develop the fenestrations,' he says.

A Good Choice for Beginners

While a unique variety like the 'Burle Marx Flame' may seem daunting at first, Justin assures it's just as straightforward as caring for any other monstera.

'It likes lots of light (a bright spot, within about three feet of an unobstructed east or west-facing window is ideal), consistent watering (let the top half of the potting mix dry out in between), average household temperatures, and average to above-average household humidity,' he describes.

To avoid common indoor plant mistakes with this monstera, use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to check when the soil has dried sufficiently.

You can likewise increase humidity levels for indoor plants with a pebble humidity tray (from Amazon) or a plant mister (from Walmart).

Having said that, Justin notes 'Burle Marx Flame' has leathery leaves that give it more drought tolerance than other tender types of monstera (like Monstera adansonii), making it a great choice for busy or forgetful houseplant owners.

'Like most houseplants, it’s also best to keep it away from hot or cold drafts,' Justin adds.

'It is a climbing plant also, so it will appreciate a sturdy support to grow up on (like this moss pole from Amazon),' he advises.

FAQs

How Do You Propagate a 'Burle Marx Flame' Monstera?

You can multiply a 'Burle Marx Flame' monstera using the same method as regular monstera propagation. Take stem cuttings with at least one or two leaf lodes, remove the lower leaves, and pop them in either water or a well-draining potting mix. You can then use methods to speed up houseplant propagation, such as using a heat mat (like this one from Walmart).

Over time, you may find your 'Burle Marx Flame' monstera becomes a little wild in its growth. To help tame it, read our guide on how to train an overgrown monstera.

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