While the garden settles down for winter, our indoor plants still need plenty of attention. From overwatering to reduced daylight, there are several seasonal challenges to navigate. One that often gets overlooked is indoor heating.

While many indoor plant parents know to protect their plants from cold drafts, Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms and author of the upcoming book The New Complete Guide to Houseplants (available to pre-order from Amazon), warns that turning on the heat can bring a different challenge. Warm, dry air can dehydrate plants, cause yellowing leaves, pest problems, and even plant death – and Justin reveals houseplants with thinner leaves are among those most at risk.

Speaking to Homes & Gardens, he explains why thin-leaved plants are particularly vulnerable, which houseplants to look out for, and how to protect them in winter (don't forget to have your houseplant care kit to hand).

The Danger of Heating

Winter houseplant care can be easy to neglect, particularly when plants aren't showing many signs of growth. However, this doesn't mean they should be ignored – winter is the time to pay attention to challenging indoor conditions that put your plants at risk.

'We tend to think of our homes as being a consistent environment and disconnected from the outside world, but this isn't true,' Justin says. 'The biggest thing is that the light and temperature change in winter,' he explains.

Justin points out that houseplants experience much more sudden temperature changes indoors than in their natural environment, particularly when exposed to direct heat. This can cause heat stress, dehydration, and yellowing and crisping leaves.

'If you have a plant next to a fireplace or a heating vent, the air coming out of there is so much warmer because it has to heat the room, and it can be stressful on the plant,' he explains.

Prolonged exposure to this dry air can even create ideal conditions for houseplant pests (particularly spider mites) putting your houseplant at even greater risk.

'As our heaters go on, we see spider mites reproduce a little bit faster. An egg can hatch into an adult, mature, and lay more eggs all in just seven days. So if you're really not monitoring it, those populations explode fast,' Justin notes.

But this doesn't mean you need to keep your heating off to protect your houseplants. Instead, it's about managing their environment carefully, especially for those most vulnerable.

Which Houseplants Are Most at Risk?

'As a general rule, the thinner the leaf, the more delicate a plant tends to be. So, plants like your ferns and calatheas are going to be a little bit more temperamental to those type of environment changes,' Justin explains.

Plants with fleshy, waxy leaves, such as succulents, ZZ plants, and snake plants, tend to store more water in their foliage, helping them cope better with drier periods. In contrast, plants with thinner leaves have less capacity to retain moisture, making them more susceptible to water loss when exposed to the dry air caused by indoor heating.

These are some of the houseplants most at risk:

• Ferns
• Calatheas
• Peace lily
• Prayer plant
• Ivy
• Polka dot plant
• Nerve plant

How to Protect Them

To protect houseplants from central heating, Justin says the solution is simple.

'It's best to watch the draft sources, both cold and warm. Pay attention to things like your heating vent and where the air is coming out. That can often be as simple as moving your plant just a tiny bit so it's no longer in the path of the air.

'If you have a fireplace, the mantle could be a terrible place for a houseplant, even though it looks beautiful there,' he adds.

A room thermometer (like this from Walmart) can help monitor temperatures more accurately. Generally speaking, 60-75°F is the sweet spot for the majority of plants.

Watering correctly during can also help with moisture management and ensure your houseplants don't become dehydrated or oversaturated. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) is essential for this, giving you an instant reading to determine if your plant needs watering.

Likewise, increasing humidity for indoor plants can help counter dry winter air. You can move plants close together, use a pebble humidity tray, or a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

What to Shop

It's important to also protect your houseplants from cold temperatures this season, as cold damage can likewise weaken plants. Luckily there are plenty of ways to keep houseplants warm in winter without relying on harsh heaters. Burlap (like this from Amazon), for example, is a breathable material that can be used to insulate plant pots in particularly chilly rooms.

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Come November, our houseplants are desperate for a bit for a bit of TLC to cope with lower light levels and colder room temperatures. Spider plants, despite being one of the easiest houseplants to care for, are among those that need a bit of help to settle into the incoming winter season.

It's true that spider plant care is straightforward, which is why it's such a beginner-friendly houseplant. However, drafts, soggy soil, and dry air all put it at risk through the fall and winter months. These problems could cause root rot, pest problems, and foliage damage.

That's why I always do a handful of things in fall to keep my spider plant bright and healthy. With your houseplant care kit to hand (particularly a soil moisture meter, like this from Amazon), here's what to do with a spider plant in November.

1. Avoid Drafts

Spider plants are tropical houseplants, native to tropical and southern Africa. For this reason, they don't cope well with cold temperatures and sudden temperature fluctuations.

'Spider plants thrive at temperatures between 65-75°F. Avoid drastic temperature changes, like drafts. While the plant can tolerate short drops to 50–55°F, prolonged exposure to cold can kill it,' says Plantum plant expert, Marina Prokaten.

'If you put it on a windowsill, make sure the leaves don’t touch the cold glass,' she adds.

You can use a room thermometer (like this from Walmart) to monitor this. If needed, use a seedling heat mat (which you can pick up from Amazon) to keep your spider plant sufficiently warm.

2. Move It Closer to a Window

As well as watching out for sudden cold temperatures, take note of how much daylight exposure your spider plant gets in its current position. To little light during fall and winter's shorter days can result in a loss of variegation, leggy growth, and even stunted growth.

'Place your spider plant near a west or east-facing window so it receives bright, indirect light,' Marina suggests.

Houseplant rotation can help provide balanced light exposure and result in more symmetrical growth. A plant caddy (like this wooden one from Wayfair) can make this much more convenient to do.

'Watch for pale and wilted foliage, which may indicate the plant lacks sunlight. If you see this, move the pot closer to a window or use a grow light,' Marina adds.

If you do need to boost lighting, a grow light with a timer can make it low effort. This bamboo grow light from Amazon doesn't compromise on aesthetics.

3. Reduce Watering

One of the biggest things to do when it comes to fall houseplant care is reduce watering. Soil dries out much slower in the colder room temperatures, and plants are entering dormancy so don't need so much water to support growth.

'Be careful not to overwater the spider plant, especially if it’s kept in a cool spot, since roots are more likely to get stressed in wet soil,' says Marina.

Overwatering now can risk houseplant root rot, houseplant pest problems, and the death of your houseplant.

You should use your finger or a soil moisture meter (which you can pick up from Walmart) to identify when around 50% has dried out before watering again.

'It's also best to choose a pot with drainage holes at the bottom so excess water can drain freely, and empty the saucer afterward,' Marina advises.

4. Check for Brown Tips

It's a common problem for a spider plant's tips to turn brown over winter, especially when your plant is located near radiators and heating vents, or indoor humidity has dropped.

'Brown leaf tips often signal low humidity or sensitivity to tap water chemicals. The damaged parts won’t recover, but increasing the humidity will prevent new leaves from drying at the edges,' Marina suggests.

Tap water can be bad for houseplants that are particularly sensitive to the chemicals and minerals in the water. Spider plants are fairly tolerate of tap water, but a build-up of minerals can cause brown tips and discoloring foliage. You can purchase distilled water from Walmart to use instead.

'To increase humidity for indoor plants, consider using a humidifier (like this portable humidifier from Amazon). You can also group your houseplants and place a container filled with water nearby,' Marina suggests.

Another easy way to boost humidity is placing your spider plant on a pebble humidity tray, which you can find at Amazon. As the water evaporates around the pebbles, it increases moisture in the air around your plant.

5. Don't Fertilize Your Plant

Now that your spider plant is entering dormancy, it's slowing down and isn't growing so actively as in spring and summer. This means it doesn't need fertilizer – in fact, fertilizing your spider plant now can cause more harm than good.

'In cooler temperatures and with less light, the spider plant slows its growth and uses very few resources, so fertilizing is unnecessary. Hold off on any fertilizers until early spring to prevent chemical burns to the roots,' says Marina.

You could risk killing off your spider plant by burning roots when it isn't taking up essential plant nutrients.

Instead, use this time to stock up on spider plant fertilizer (like this TPS spider plant fertilizer from Amazon), ready to use monthly in spring when your plant starts to grow again.

What to Shop

As the coldest temperatures settle in, it's important to keep your most sensitive houseplants warm in winter. If needed, you can wrap houseplant pots with a breathable material like burlap (available on Amazon) for extra insulation.

Our guide to winter houseplant care has more insights to consider for healthy and happy houseplants over the coming months.

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There's no denying winter is settling in, with fewer daylight hours and cooler temps. Our houseplants can struggle with this seasonal shift, which is why I always do a few things to help them cope. One of the easiest things to do? Wash your windows.

It may sounds strange at first, but I find washing my windows every November makes a huge difference for fall houseplant care. It removes debris and dirt, letting more light in and improving exposure for my houseplants. As a result, it contributes to keeping leggy growth at bay and supports houseplants through challenging seasonal conditions.

It's one of the reasons I keep a microfiber cloth in my houseplant care kit (as well as an Amazon soil moisture meter, which is an essential for winter). Here's why this quick hack shouldn't be underestimated.

Why Does It Work?

One of the main problems houseplants face in fall and winter is fewer daylight hours. It leaves indoor plants with less natural light exposure, which is needed for essential plant processes like photosynthesis, even when the plant is in dormancy and growing much more slowly during the cooler months.

Insufficient lighting during fall and winter can cause houseplants to grow leggy. Long, sparse stems are weak and can break easily, generally draining the plant's energy.

That's why washing your windows can make a real difference. It's a fall indoor plant task often forgotten about, but removing grime and dirt from your windows will allow for more light to pass through.

I find it's especially useful for my larger houseplants that have a permanent position further away from windows and can't be easily moved.

When doing this, wash both the inside and outside of your windows for the full benefit (you can pick up a window squeegee from Amazon). However, it's important to keep in mind this won't drastically improve light levels alone – combining it with other methods will benefit your indoor garden most.

Other Methods to Boost Light Levels

I always move some of my houseplants in fall, relocating those that need more light closer to bright windows.

However, you should be aware of harsh winter sun that can still cause leaf scorch for the most sensitive houseplants.

Cleaning houseplants leaves also helps by removing any dust blocking your plant's pores. You can use a microfiber cloth, or special houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Walmart) which pick up dust in one swipe.

I also practice houseplant rotation, turning houseplants weekly so they get equal exposure. It results in more symmetrical growth.

If needed, supplement lighting with grow lights for houseplants. This grow light from Amazon has a beautiful bamboo finish and a timer for convenient use.

What to Shop

Look out for other common indoor plant mistakes this season. This includes watering too frequently, where soil takes longer to dry out in winter conditions. It could risk houseplant root rot and attracts pests like fungus gnats.

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Citronella (Pelargonium citrosum) is a popular scented-leaf pelargonium with a strong citrus-like smell. This scent is thought to deter mosquitoes, but that has never been proven; still, citronella remains a sought-after plant for summer with its textured foliage, delicate pink flowers, and that intoxicating scent when the leaves are crushed.

The plant is only hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. When you grow citronella in warmer climates, it can be a perennial. In colder climates, it can either be treated as an annual or brought indoors for winter. Overwintering citronella plants indoors is simple and more sustainable than throwing away perfectly good plants at the end of each season.

Here is a straightforward guide to overwintering citronella plants indoors, including what to do and when, and a few common pitfalls to avoid. If your citronella plants spend summer in the ground, they need to be dug up and put into pots for winter. I always use terracotta pots for pelargoniums, like these eight-inch terracotta pots at Walmart.

How to Overwinter Citronella Plants in 4 Easy Steps

It may be unproven that citronella repels mosquitoes – even though you may see it marked as the ‘mosquito plant’ by retailers – but there are still plenty of good reasons to grow this scented pelargonium.

The sweet lemon fragrance from the serrated foliage is released when the leaves are crushed or brushed past and fills the air with a beautiful blast of citrus.

Citronella plants are ideal low-maintenance plants for pots that can live on a table, deck, or patio over summer, then retreat indoors for winter. Don’t be wasteful and let them succumb to winter; bring the tender plant indoors in November before the frosts.

Overwintering citronella plants saves you from needing to buy new plants annually and is a more sustainable way to garden than throwing everything away at the end of each season.

1. Bring the Plant Indoors

In climates that experience frost, overwintering citronella plants indoors is crucial. Only in US hardiness zones 9-11 is it likely to overwinter outdoors successfully with a layer of mulch to protect the roots.

The time to bring citronella plants indoors is when nighttime temperatures start falling to 45°F. Extended periods below this cause wilting and yellowing leaves. If frost touches a citronella plant, it will be severely damaged or killed. Monitor your local forecasts to act quickly when the nights get cold. This wireless weather station on Amazon provides accurate readings and weather forecasts.

Plants growing in containers can be easily brought indoors to a bright, cool location for winter. They will be happy at temperatures of 45°F to 50°F over winter, such as in a frost-free greenhouse or conservatory. Steady temperatures are best, so keep them away from fluctuating temperatures from radiators, air ducts, or heating vents.

Any citronella plants in flower beds or raised beds need to be dug up and put into containers to overwinter indoors. Fill your pots with well-draining potting soil, like this organic potting mix at Burpee.

It's worth bearing in mind that citronella is toxic to both humans and pets. If you're overwintering your plants indoors, then keep them well away from any nosy household pets.

2. Cut the Plants Back

The plants will continue to slowly grow at 45°F to 50°F through winter. It may feel harsh, but good practice is to cut the plant back by up to half when you bring it indoors for winter.

Use clean, sharp pruning shears (like these pruning snips at Burpee) and cut the stems back to just above a leaf node. You can use some of this material for pelargonium cuttings if you want to expand your citronella collection or act as an insurance policy in case you lose any over winter.

After trimming plants, check thoroughly for any pests or their eggs. When overwintering citronella plants, you don’t want to invite pests indoors to spread to other indoor plants.

You can combat any pest problems with insecticidal soap, available at Walmart.

3. Give Them Good Light

When overwintering citronella plants, they need light, air circulation, and frost protection to stay safe and healthy. Light ensures healthy growth, ventilation stops mold, and frost-free conditions keep them alive.

Pelargoniums need a bright, sunny spot for winter. This can be in a greenhouse, conservatory, porch, or on a west- or south-facing windowsill. Ideally, they will get at least six hours of light per day.

If they cannot get enough natural light during the colder, darker months, LED grow lights can supplement the levels over winter.

Grow lights are often useful for houseplants during winter to support healthy growth and keep them vibrant. Use a full-spectrum grow light like this on Amazon and position it at least six inches above the plant.

4. Reduce Watering Over Winter

Overwintering citronella plants need careful watering. Pelargoniums always require a delicate touch with a watering can. The soil needs to dry out between waterings, even during summer.

Citronella does not like sitting in wet soil for long periods – it can be easy to overwater indoor plants. The risks are especially high during the winter, when you need to water much less often than at other times of year. It can mean watering only every 2-4 weeks while the plant is indoors for winter.

Soak the plant, then keep a close eye on the soil and don’t water again until it dries out. A soil moisture meter, available on Amazon, can help you judge when to water plants over winter.

What you shouldn’t do over winter is feed plants. When early spring arrives, increase the watering and give the citronella its first feed of the year.

What to Shop

Any tender houseplants that come outdoors for summer also need to be moved back indoors well before the first frost. Along with pelargoniums, the likes of begonias, succulents, bromeliads, pothos, and Boston ferns should be among the plants you protect first before frost arrives. When the temperatures dip to 45-50°F, that is time to bring them indoors.

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Christmas cacti are some of the most beloved holiday houseplants, and it's not hard to see why. With bright pink, red, and orange blooms that burst open for the festive season, they undoubtedly bring joy to interiors. Even better? When they start to trail.

If you've been growing a Christmas cactus for a few years (or perhaps you bought a larger one to begin with, like this Christmas cactus from Amazon), you'll notice its long stems start to spill over the edge of its pot and elegantly cascade. It turns this holiday houseplant into a botanical spectacle – but its vessel can make all the difference in truly showing off its sculptural silhouette

From shallow bowls that support their root system to terracotta pots on stands and hanging baskets, these are our top picks of pots to shop for your festive succulent.

The Best Pot for a Trailing Christmas Cactus

There a couple of things to consider when choosing the best pots for a trailing Christmas cactus.

Firstly, these succulents have shallow root systems and often thrive best in smaller pots that don't hold onto excess moisture and risk root rot. For this reason, a pot with drainage holes is also beneficial, or you can use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to monitor water levels carefully where your pot doesn't have a drainage hole – an essential to have in your houseplant care kit.

Terracotta planters also work well for Christmas cactus plants because it's a porous material that helps moisture evaporate and allows air to the roots.

For a trailing Christmas cactus in particular, you can make a much more impressive display by opting for a hanging plant pot, a wall-mounted planter, or a pot on an indoor plant stand. These elevated positions allow the stems to trail freely.

Of course, don't forget to keep your plant's size in mind when choosing a planter diameter.

No matter which plant pot you choose for your trailing Christmas cactus, take care to also provide a well-draining potting soil. You can even make a DIY Christmas cactus potting mix, or amend a regular houseplant potting mix with perlite (like this from Walmart) for added drainage.

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While the bright red blooms of amaryllis may be what we all patiently anticipate, there is beauty in the bulbs yet to flower – and styling them with their tall green stems on show shouldn't be overlooked.

If you planted amaryllis bulbs for a festive display, don't wait until they bloom to put them out. You can display amaryllis bulbs before they flower in so many beautiful ways, celebrating each stage of their growth. From kokedama to rustic vessels, putting amaryllis shoots on display makes it all the more exciting to watch them grow taller and eventually burst open with vibrant color.

Plus, the impressive height of amaryllis stems (typically 12-24") can bring structure to living centerpieces, especially when paired with other indoor bulbs like paperwhites (which you can pick up from Walmart). Here, we look at seven of the most elegant styling ideas for the holiday season.

1. Use a Clear Vase

One of the easiest ways to force bulbs indoors is with a special bulb forcing vase (like this from Amazon). It holds the bulbs above a water reservoir where the roots grow.

The best part is these vases are usually clear glass (you can even get a green amaryllis bulb vase from Amazon for extra color), so you can observe root growth. Having a few lined up on a windowsill is effortlessly impressive.

Alternatively, you can recreate the styling in the image above by planting your amaryllis bulb in a clear vase (like this oval glass vase from Wayfair). Moss can be added to provide moisture-retention and for an aesthetic finish.

In whatever case, the transparent vessel offers a look beneath the surface while your amaryllis is growing.

2. Kokedama Style

Kokedama is a Japanese tradition of growing plants in a moss ball, typically used as a hanging basket alternative, though you can also display them atop a table surface.

By wrapping your amaryllis bulbs in moss (which you can order from Walmart) and following the steps to make kokedama, you can instantly make your amaryllis look more interesting.

Take it a step further by hanging your amaryllis kokedama from the ceiling above your dining table or in bright windows, which will support blooming. Mixing in festive kokedama using other popular holiday plants (like this poinsettia from Walmart) will offer an even more breathtaking display.

3. Style Up Waxed Bulbs

The joy of waxed amaryllis bulbs is that they're super low-maintenance and don't need any watering to grow. The wax holds in moisture, so you can simply set it up and enjoy the blooms open up.

While it is effortlessly beautiful to simply position your waxed amaryllis bulbs (which you can purchase from Walmart) on a coffee table, shelf, or elsewhere, adding some decorative touches can bring the display to life.

One idea is using wood slice centerpieces (like these from Amazon) to place the bulbs at different heights. Add some fairy lights and foraged moss, foliage, and pinecones to create a dreamy woodland display.

4. Group Terracotta Pots

Festive bulbs in rustic pots is timelessly sophisticated and super easy. You simply have to plant your bulbs in a selection of clay and terracotta planters – mixing different tones often makes the most impressive display.

You can then arrange your different pots together for an en masse display, whether as a centerpiece or in your living room as living Christmas decor.

When growing amaryllis in pots like this, use moss on the surface level to bring the look together, as well as lock in moisture for healthy growth.

5. Repurpose Vintage Ceramics

An alternative to amaryllis bulbs in terracotta pots is planting them in a range of vintage ceramics.

You can repurpose thrifted vessels, kitchen pots, old decorative tins, and more. I love the range of vintage-style floral pots on Amazon which would naturally slot into this look.

Once again, mixing planter heights can help create a more curated look. You could also place different bulbs in different spots around your home to tie your decor together.

6. Pair with Paperwhites

When it comes to the best bulbs for Christmas flowering, paperwhites tend to bloom much sooner than amaryllis. When paired together, this offers a successional display through the holiday season and beyond.

You can simply arrange your potted paperwhites among your potted amaryllis bulbs. The result will be dainty white blooms among tall amaryllis stems getting ready for their moment to flower. Once the paperwhites finish, you'll still have the showy amaryllis flowers to enjoy.

If you want them to bloom at the same time, a bit of pre-planning is required. You can stagger their planting by first planting amaryllis bulbs 6-8 weeks before your desired bloom period and paperwhites 3-4 weeks before.

7. Add Companion Plants

To make your non-blooming amaryllis shoots more interesting, plant them up with accompanying, textural companions.

Some of the best choices include moss, ferns, ivy, and cyclamen, which are low-growing and typically start to flower before amaryllis and right through to early spring.

You can even use the thriller, spiller, filler container method for an abundant arrangement, with the amaryllis being the showstopper thriller and surrounding plants offering a green foundation.

Find indoor cyclamen at Walmart.

What to Shop

These are just a few ideas to incorporate amaryllis bulbs into your festive floral centerpiece, but there are plenty of other possibilities for these holiday staples.

Towards the end of your amaryllis' display this year, don't forget to read up on when to cut back amaryllis and how to store amaryllis bulbs to plant again next year.

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November calls for a serious shift in houseplant care, with cooler temps and less daylight hours to battle with. For the likes of jade plants in particular, watering and relocating are crucial in helping these succulents transition into winter.

Generally speaking, jade plant care is super straightforward and these plants thrive with less attention. This is even more true in fall and winter, where less water will prevent issues like root rot. Although, they do need to be placed somewhere with brighter light and warmth to support growth and keep them healthy through to spring.

I find quite a few things in my houseplant care kit can help with ticking off essential tasks this month, including my Amazon soil moisture meter. Here's exactly what to do with a jade plant in November

1. Water Once a Month

When it comes to watering a jade plant, approach it the same as other succulents. These plants store water in their fleshy foliage, so they can be left to dry out in between watering.

That's why you should pull back on watering this month and over winter, really only needing to top it up every 4-6 weeks. More frequently than this can risk root rot as cooler temperatures mean the soil stays wet for longer.

The best thing to do is always check the soil before watering. I like to use a soil moisture meter (like this from Walmart) which will identify when it's time to top up your plant's water level.

2. Relocate to Somewhere Brighter

Jade plants thrive best in 4-6 hours of bright, indirect sunlight, but this is harder to achieve indoors during fall. That's why November calls for relocating your jade plant to a brighter spot in your home.

A windowsill that gets lots of fall sunlight is ideal, providing as much natural light exposure as possible for your jade plant. In summer, this may turn your jade plant red from stress, but in fall and winter it ensures they have sufficient light.

Leaving your jade plant in a lower light position can cause houseplants to grow leggy and weak. If needed, you can use a grow light (like this from Amazon) to provide supplemental lighting.

3. Keep Away from Drafts

Jade plants are not very tolerate of cold temperatures, so it's important to be aware of cold drafts this season. Leaving your jade plant in the path of draft and fluctuating temps can result in leaf drop, shriveling, and mushy foliage.

Ideally, 65-75°F is the optimal range for your jade plant indoors during winter, but you should most importantly avoid 50°F and below. A room thermometer from Walmart can help monitor this.

If needed, a seedling heat mat (available from Amazon) can be used to keep your jade plant warm. Other methods to keep houseplants warm in winter include wrapping pots with a breathable material, like this burlap from Amazon.

What to Shop

Other fall houseplant care tasks to keep in mind for your jade plant in November include holding back on fertilizer and regularly checking for pests, especially on the undersides of leaves where they hide.

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Orchids come with a reputation for being tricky to grow. A common sight is a leggy orchid with bare stems, often due to natural aging or not repotting it every few years. If this sounds like yours, don’t despair, as there is a way to encourage new sprouts and a dazzling display of blooms.

I hold my hands up and admit I’ve never really nailed down a perfect orchid care routine. There are several in my bathroom, and I've had them for years. Some years they bloom; others they don’t. I would love to reinvigorate them, and while searching for a potential solution, I found this crazy keiki cloning paste on Amazon.

This nutrient-based cloning paste actively encourages dormant buds along flowering stems. Bare stems can then produce new shoots and flowers, and new stems can even be used to propagate new orchid plants. It seems like a really simple way to breathe new life into your orchids, and the paste has received thousands of positive reviews.

What Is Crazy Keiki Cloning Paste?

Crazy keiki cloning paste is made in the USA. It is a paste made from natural wax and a blend of beneficial hormones, compounds, nutrients, and vitamins to encourage growth on all types of orchids, as well as any other houseplants with above-ground nodes.

The product differs from rooting hormone pastes or powders traditionally used to propagate plants from cuttings. It will help encourage new growth and additional blooms on healthy orchids. However, it will not bring an orchid back to life if the plant is suffering from underlying health issues caused by watering, temperature, or a lack of light.

How to Use Crazy Keiki Cloning Paste

The crazy keiki cloning paste encourages the development of dormant buds and keikis. Keiki means ‘child’ in Hawaiian. These are small versions of the plant that appear along the flowering stem, and are identical clones of the mother orchid.

Anyone wanting to propagate orchids can divide plants, start new plants from older ‘back’ bulbs, or grow them from these keikis. Many orchids naturally produce these babies to multiply.

If you want to gift your favorite orchid to a friend or family member, a new keiki can be cut from the plant once it has aerial roots a few inches long. Repot it into a container filled with a specialized orchid potting mix (available at Amazon).

You don’t need to encourage keikis just to start new plants; they can stay put and breathe new life into an existing orchid. It can revitalize leggy orchids, encouraging new buds to develop on bare stems. Leaving a keiki on the parent plant creates a spectacular display as multiple flowering spikes can bloom simultaneously.

How you use the crazy keiki cloning paste depends on your plan for the keikis. Apply it higher up the plant for more blooms, and lower down if you wish to grow a new houseplant from cuttings.

It is easy to use. Apply the paste to a node after cutting or peeling a small section of the stem. When successful, new buds form in 3-4 weeks, and a new keiki emerges within eight weeks. It only takes one application, as the natural wax keeps the paste in place even with regular watering and misting, keeping the orchid healthy and happy throughout the process.

However, it is not a miracle cure and won’t save an unhealthy, wilting orchid. If your plant is unhappy, if it has orchid root rot from incorrect watering, or if orchid flowers are falling off due to stress, then make sure it recovers before using the product.

An unhealthy orchid can’t safely support new growth – any plant must be thriving to use the paste. And don’t get carried away using it on too many nodes at once. Pick one or two nodes, as overuse will stress the plant.

The crazy keiki cloning paste is for more than just orchids. It can be used on many other indoor plants, too. This includes a weeping fig, monstera, pothos, string of hearts, tradescantia, and more. If the plant has above-ground nodes, it is a suitable candidate.

What Shoppers Say

The crazy keiki cloning paste has got 4.4 out of 5 stars on Amazon from over 6,700 reviews at the time of writing. It is praised for its effectiveness across different houseplants, with reviewers reporting positive experiences with pothos, peperomia, philodendron, and orchids.

One review claims it ‘works like magic,’ and other users note similar happy experiences.

‘It’s only been about three short weeks, and I’m already seeing an absolutely unbelievable amount of new growth,’ says one five-star reviewer. ‘Seriously, these plants are practically exploding with life. I'm genuinely astonished at how quickly and effectively it’s working its magic.’

Others admit that the crazy keiki cloning paste worked ‘much faster’ than expected. One shopper who used it on a Pearl and Jade pothos says: ‘The nodes started sprouting in just a couple of weeks and now have full clusters of leaves.’

Some reviews mention how small the bottle is, containing just 7ml of paste. However, happy users report that a little goes a long way.

‘I like that they include Q-tips to apply it. You really don’t need a lot, so I don’t mind that the bottle is very small,’ says one such review. ‘I’ve used probably about a quarter of the container on multiple nodes on five plants.’

As expected, there are mixed reviews among the thousands on Amazon, including some that say it didn't work.

There are many variables with propagation, and success or failure can come down to plant health, how the product was used, where the plant is located, and how it is cared for after application. Lots of mitigating factors may cause the product not to work, so success is never guaranteed. However, there are many more positive reviews than negative.

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One particularly tricky aspect of orchid care is watering, which always remains one area people struggle to get right. One way to water orchids is to plunge the plant into water weekly, then let it drain well.

To tell if your orchid needs water, look at the roots. Hydrated roots are green; if they are gray or white, they need more water, while if they are brown, that usually means the plant is being overwatered.

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Some houseplants thrive when their roots are kept snug in their pots, making them a great choice if you want a low-maintenance indoor garden. As fall brings shorter days and slower growth for many indoor plants, it’s a good time to review your houseplant care routine and consider which plants really need repotting – and which are happy to stay put.

Although repotting is essential when a plant outgrows its container, forgetting to do so can become a common indoor plant mistake, potentially leading to yellowing leaves and stunted growth. A plant becomes pot-bound, or root-bound, when its roots grow densely around the inside of its container, eventually leaving little room for further growth. However, the good news is not every plant minds having restricted roots, and some even prefer these conditions.

Knowing which varieties are happy in a snug pot can help you spend less time repotting and more time enjoying your indoor greenery. If you’re looking for houseplants that are easy to care for and won’t need frequent moves into larger containers, these are the varieties worth adding to your collection. (Many will be even happier if placed on a humidity tray over winter, such as this highly recommended one from Amazon.)

Spider Plant

This has to be one of the easiest indoor plants you can grow at home, needing very little attention and coping well with neglect. You can get away with not repotting your spider plant for a couple of years at a time.

'Spider plants like to be root-bound and will protest when they are potted into too big of a container by dying back,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

When spider plants live in a pot too-large, they may suffer from houseplant root rot as the potting soil takes longer to dry out. Even when living in a smaller pot, these plants will produce plenty of baby plants so you can easily propagate spider plants from cuttings.

'Repot when roots are coming out of the drainage holes and water rushes through the pot quickly,' Julie advises.

When your spider plant starts turning yellow, it's time to inspect the roots and see if it needs to be placed in a bigger pot.

African Violet

Even some indoor flowering plants prefer to have their roots kept snug, and African violets are a good example. These compact, colorful houseplants are relatively easy to grow and don't need a particularly large pot to thrive.

'African violets like to be snug in their pots,' notes Lisa Eldred Steinkopf from the Houseplant Guru. 'Yet, because they drop their lower leaves, they will form long stems,' she adds.

While there's no need to rush to repot an African violet simply because its roots are filling the container, leggy growth and a bare stem can be signs that it's time for a little attention. If your plant is shedding its lower leaves or your African violet is drooping, check whether the stem has become elongated and exposed.

'Then they need to be re-potted, burying those stems under the potting media, where they will grow new roots,' explains Lisa. 'Most standard African violets need only a 4-inch pot,' she adds.

With the right-sized container, African violets can remain happy for quite some time without repotting. As a general guide, check them annually for signs of elongated stems, crowded roots or declining growth, rather than automatically moving them into a larger pot. A lack of flowers alone doesn't necessarily mean they need more space, as light and watering conditions can also affect flowering.

You can keep a track of how often to water your plants in fall with a moisture meter; we recommend this battery-free model, available from Amazon.

Jade Plant

While there are many fast-growing succulents, jade plants are better choices for those looking for a slow-grower. Growing at a rate of only two inches per year, it's no surprise you don't need to repot jade plants often.

'Like many succulents, jade prefers to be root-bound. Repotting too soon will lead to too much wet soil and root rot,' notes Julie. 'Repot when water rushes through the pot when you water and the soil dries out quickly between watering,' she adds.

Potting mix drying out quickly is a common sign your plant is ready for repotting. This is because when a plant becomes too pot-bound, their roots are unable to absorb enough water and nutrients.

However, jade plants don't need watering too regularly and can be left to mostly dry between watering. You can get away with only repotting your jade plant every three to four years.

You can find beautiful 'sunset' jade plants available at The Sill.

Alocasia

With their dramatic, often beautifully patterned leaves, alocasias make a striking addition to a houseplant collection. These tropical plants can also be happier with their roots slightly snug in their containers, meaning they don't need repotting as frequently as you might expect.

'Though these are tropical indoor plants, alocasias grow better on the root-bound side,' notes Julie.

Moving an alocasia into a pot that's much larger than its root system needs can leave excess compost holding too much moisture, increasing the risk of root rot. A slightly snug container can help you manage watering more effectively, although being severely root-bound isn't ideal either.

On average, you may only need to repot alocasias every 18 months. Rather than repotting on a strict schedule, look out for signs that your plant needs attention. 'Repot when watering doesn’t seem to moisten the soil sufficiently,' says Julie.

This stylish olive ceramic planter from Amazon has built in drainage holes, and would be ideal for an alocasia.

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Hoya

If you're after a plant that offers beautiful indoor blooms and doesn't need too much attention, it's worth considering hoyas. These unique plants are native to southeast Asia, Japan and Taiwan, and can live in the same pot for as long as five years.

'Hoyas like to be snug in their pots. They often wait until their roots fill the pot to initiate flowering,' explains Lisa.

So, if your hoya isn't flowering, it might just be because it isn't mature enough yet or you've repotted it too soon. 'If they're up-potted too frequently they may not flower well,' says Lisa.

It's best to wait until your hoya's roots are poking out or the soil isn't absorbing water well to repot your plant.

Snake Plant

This is a classic among the best indoor plants and one many choose as a bedroom plant for its air-purifying qualities. Caring for a snake plant is incredibly easy, including the lack of repotting it needs.

'Though not a true succulent, snake plant is much like a succulent in that putting this plant into too much wet soil will quickly lead to root rot, so it is best to let the plant remain root-bound until it becomes top-heavy and water rushes quickly through the soil, leaving the plant lacking water,' explains Julie.

Although, it is important to repot your snake plant as needed. 'Snake plants do have large rhizomatous roots. If in full sun and healthy the plant will break a pot with its roots,' warns Lisa. 'Usually, snake plants aren’t given enough sun to do this, as they are touted as low-light plants,' she adds.

You can find the stunning 'zeylanica' snake plant at Trees.com.

Christmas Cactus

With their colorful blooms appearing around the holidays, Christmas cactus and Thanksgiving cactus are wonderful houseplants to enjoy through fall and winter. Happily, both are relatively content in snug containers, so there's no need to rush to repot them every year.

You can distinguish the two by the shape of their stem segments and their typical flowering times, with Thanksgiving cactus generally blooming earlier than Christmas cactus.

'If repotted too often, these cacti may not flower well. They will put energy into filling the pot with roots before it uses its energy to flower,' explains Lisa.

If you're hoping to make a Christmas cactus bloom in time for the festive season, leaving it in a comfortably snug pot can help. However, flowering also depends on the right conditions, including sufficient darkness overnight and suitable temperatures as buds develop.

As a general guide, aim to repot your Christmas cactus, or Thanksgiving cactus, every couple of years, or when it has clearly outgrown its container or the potting mix needs refreshing. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the existing one, with good drainage, to avoid leaving the roots sitting in excess moisture. A dedicated Christmas cactus fertilizer, such as the TPS one from Amazon, is also handy to have in your toolkit when growing these seasonal plants.

Kalanchoe

Kalanchoes are popular as indoor plants that flower all year round, with blooms in colors such as pink, white and orange. As a succulent, these plants tend to grow slowly and will last in a pot-bound situation for some time.

'This succulent plant prefers to remain on the root-bound side and is highly susceptible to root rot if you fail to let it remain root-bound,' says Julie. 'You want the soil to dry out between watering, which is impossible to do if the plant is in too big of a pot,' she adds.

It can be hard to know how and when to water houseplants, but the general rule with succulents is less is more. Keeping your kalanchoe in a smaller pot can help keep it at a happy moisture level and prevent it becoming oversaturated.

Aim to repot your kalanchoe every couple of years, making sure to wait until after it has finished blooming.

It's important to note these houseplants can cope well with being pot-bound for some time, but they won't necessarily remain happy in the same sized pot forever. Always watch out for things like roots emerging from drainage holes and yellowing foliage as signs your plant needs a bigger home. Nevertheless, the houseplants compiled here enjoy being somewhat pot-bound and won't need regular repotting.

If you're new to owning houseplants or simply want some that don't need a lot of maintaining, try growing some of these plants. When you do get around to repotting your houseplants, it's better to do so in early spring before active growth kicks in. There are also lots of houseplants that can cope with other limiting growing conditions, such as the best cold-tolerant houseplants which will do well in the chillier spots of your home.

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Snake plants are some of the most unfussy houseplants and – for the most part – get along best when left alone. However, as we approach mid-fall and get ready for winter, it's important to adjust your care approach.

Snake plant care at this time of year is all about moisture management, as they can rot easily from overwatering. Likewise, cleaning their sword-shape foliage can be beneficial for deterring pests and improving light exposure. You should also stop fertilizing by the point if you haven't already, as your snake plant's roots won't be able to absorb the nutrients and it could result in root burn.

With the right houseplant care kit to hand (a soil moisture meter from Amazon can't be underestimated this season), you can give your snake plant everything it needs for a smooth seasonal transition. Here's exactly what to do with a snake plant in October.

1. Stop Watering Regularly

Something you may not know about snake plants is that they're akin to succulents. Their fleshy foliage stores water, which aids them in their native semi-arid habitat. But, just like succulent mistakes, this means they are susceptible to overwatering – especially in fall and winter.

'In October, the best thing you can do for a snake plant is to ignore it,' says plant expert and interior plant designer, Shane PliskA. 'As the days get shorter, the biggest danger to snake plants is overwatering. Make sure it is dry in between watering,' he adds.

You can use a soil moisture meter (also available at Walmart) to check your snake plant's soil. Only water again once it has fully dried out, otherwise you risk root rot and mushy foliage.

'As temperatures cool, scale back watering to once every 3-4 weeks. Don’t pour water into the leaf rosette to avoid rot,' suggests Marina Prokaten, plant expert at Plantum.

2. Clean Its Leaves

Snake plants have iconic sword-shaped, glossy foliage. While it may not be obvious from far away, a closer look will reveal this foliage captures dust which can make your snake plant appear duller, block light, and encourage houseplant pests.

That's why it's important to clean houseplant leaves regularly. In fall especially, this will reduce the risk of blocked pores and allow your snake plant to soak up as much light as possible, where daylight is otherwise limited this season.

'Clean the leaves regularly with a damp cloth to remove the dust. Keeping the foliage dust-free ensures the plant absorbs as much fall light as possible,' Marina says.

I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like this from Amazon) which are made of microfiber and pick up dust in one swipe.

3. Keep Away from Heat and Drafts

One of the key things to keep in mind with fall houseplant care is where your plants are located. In particular, indoor heating sources and cold drafts need to be avoided, as these dramatic temperature fluctuations can cause discoloring, drooping, and even the death of your plant.

'With central heating turning on in October, move your pot away from radiators and heating vents to avoid dry heat stress,' Marina says. 'It’s also best to ensure the leaves don't touch cold windowpanes at night,' she notes.

The ideal indoor temperature for snake plants is 60-75°F, which you can monitor using this Walmart room thermometer.

4. Stop Fertilizing

If you haven't already, you should stop fertilizing your snake plant in October. The plant is slowing down for winter dormancy and won't actively grow over the next few months. This means it doesn't need supplementary plant nutrients from a fertilizer.

'The roots aren’t able to absorb all the nutrients from fertilization as the plant enters dormancy, which can damage the root system,' Marina says.

It could risk root burn, make your snake plant turn yellow, and even kill off your snake plant.

Instead, use this time to stock up on snake plant fertilizer (like this one from Amazon) so you're ready to start feeding it monthly from spring next year.

5. Don't Prune Now

Now is also not a good time to prune your snake plant. It could encourage some new growth which will only struggle through fall and winter's cooler temps and darker days, resulting in a weakened plant.

'Fall is not the best time to repot or prune a snake plant. If there is something that is damaged or broken, then you can go ahead and prune it, but major pruning is not recommended this time of year because the plant is not in a growth phase, so it will take a lot longer for it to heal,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

'I recommend only repotting your snake plant if it's outgrowing its pot, and I would do that as early in October as possible,' she adds.

If you do need to remove any damaged leaves, use sharp houseplant pruning tools (these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon will work well for snake plants) and make a clean cut at the base of the leaves.

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If you find your snake plant is drooping, it may be due to one of the common snake plant problems, including rotting and insufficient lighting. By making some adjustments soon after spotting symptoms, you can nurture your snake plant back to good health.

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Peace lilies are loved for their glossy green leaves and elegant white blooms, but as fall arrives, you'll need to adjust their care routine.

October is an important month for peace lily care, particularly in the US, where cooler temperatures and shorter days can affect how well your plant grows. If yours has spent the summer outdoors, now is the time to bring it inside before chilly nights set in.

I have the Peace Lily Plant from Trees.com in my own home, and a few simple changes to watering, light, and positioning can make all the difference as the seasons change.

With a little extra attention now, you can help your peace lily stay healthy and keep its beautiful foliage looking its best throughout winter.

1. Adjust Your Watering Routine

One of the most important parts of peace lily care in October is adjusting your watering routine. As daylight hours decrease and growth slows, your plant will need less water than it did during summer.

Knowing when to water a peace lily is key. Check the top inch of potting mix with your finger and water when it feels dry, keeping the soil lightly moist without leaving the roots sitting in water. A watering can with a narrow spout, such as the Fiskars 40oz Indoor Watering Can, available on Amazon, makes it easier to direct water into the soil rather than onto the foliage.

Use room-temperature water and let any excess drain away, emptying the saucer afterward to help prevent root rot. If you notice brown leaf tips, your tap water could be a factor, as peace lilies can be sensitive to fluoride. Try filtered water or collected rainwater instead, and consider an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon if you're unsure when your plant needs a drink.

The key is to check the soil rather than stick to a rigid watering schedule, as your peace lily's needs will change as the weather cools.

2. Move It to a Brighter Spot Before the Days Get Shorter

Peace lilies can tolerate lower light levels, making them a popular choice for living rooms, bedrooms, and offices. However, as fall brings shorter days, they may need a brighter spot to keep their foliage healthy and encourage flowering.

Knowing where to place a peace lily can make all the difference. An east-facing window is often ideal, offering gentle morning sunlight, while a bright spot near a north-facing window can also work. Avoid harsh, direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves, and keep your plant away from cold window glass as temperatures drop.

If your peace lily is tucked into a dim corner, consider raising it on this decorative Wood Plant Stand Side Table from the Magnolia collection at Target to bring it closer to a window and make it a feature in your space. If natural light is limited, a full-spectrum LED grow light from Amazon can provide extra support through the darker months.

3. Bring Outdoor Peace Lilies Inside Before Temperatures Drop Too Far

If your peace lily has spent the summer on a shaded patio or porch, October is the time to check the forecast and plan to bring it indoors. These tropical plants prefer warm conditions and can suffer when temperatures fall below 60°F, so it's best to move yours inside before chilly nights arrive rather than waiting for the first frost.

Knowing the places to never grow a peace lily is just as important as finding the right spot. Avoid positioning yours beside drafty exterior doors, cold windows, fireplaces, or heating vents, where sudden temperature changes and dry air can stress the plant.

Before bringing it indoors, check the leaves and stems for pests, inspect the potting mix, and remove any dead or damaged foliage. Once inside, choose a warm spot with bright, indirect light and keep the plant away from cold drafts.

If you need to move your peace lily away from a chilly windowsill, a rolling plant caddy from Home Depot makes it easier to reposition a heavier pot as the seasons change. You could also use an indoor plant stand from Lowe's to elevate it in a warmer part of the room, away from direct heat.

4. Keep It Away From Heating Vents and Cold Drafts

As temperatures drop in fall, turning on the heat can make your home more comfortable, but the warm, dry air isn't always ideal for tropical houseplants. Peace lilies prefer consistent warmth, so keep yours away from heating vents, fireplaces, drafty windows, and exterior doors. Sudden temperature changes can stress the plant, leading to wilting, yellow leaves, or brown tips.

Aim to keep your peace lily in a comfortably warm room, ideally around 65–80°F, and avoid spots where temperatures fluctuate throughout the day. Indoor heating can also lower humidity, which peace lilies appreciate, so consider using a Canopy humidifier from Amazon to add moisture to the air, particularly if your home feels dry.

You can also group your peace lily with other houseplants to help create a more humid microclimate. A bathroom can be another good option, provided it gets enough indirect natural light. For more inspiration, we've rounded up the best bathroom plants that thrive in these naturally humid conditions.

5. Clean the Leaves and Ease Back on Fertilizer

October is a good time to give your peace lily a little TLC before winter. Gently wipe its broad leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust, check for pests, and trim away any dead or damaged foliage with clean scissors.

It's also time to ease back on feeding as growth slows. If you're wondering how to fertilize a peace lily, use a gentle feed, such as TPS Plant Foods Peace Lily Fertilizer, following the label instructions. You can also find Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food at Walmart. Avoid overfeeding, and pause fertilizing over winter if growth slows.

Finally, hold off on repotting until spring unless there's a problem with the roots or drainage. A little maintenance now will help your peace lily stay healthy until the growing season returns.

Peace lilies don't need much fuss to get through fall and winter. A few simple adjustments to watering, light, and positioning in October can help keep their foliage healthy as temperatures drop and daylight fades. Give your plant the right conditions now, and it will be well placed to thrive until brighter days return in spring.

My Monstera deliciosa is my largest and most unruly houseplant. I've currently got moss poles keeping it upright, which works well but isn't the most attractive look. Instead of taking in the iconic fenestrated leaves of my monstera, it feels as though my eye is always drawn to the brown poles first.

That's why I was excited to spot my latest find for monstera care: these Amazon monstera stem supports. It's a metal decorative disk that sits above the base of the plant and holds the stems together, giving these large plants the support they need for healthy growth. It's much more subtle than a moss pole and its gold finish feels elevated, so it doesn't stand out as an eyesore.

Not to mention, it's really great value for money – you get six supports for $9.99. Those who have already bought it say, 'it’s sturdy, easy to use, and gives my monstera the support it needs. It blends in nicely with the plant and looks very neat.' Here's why it's going straight in my houseplant care kit.

Why Monsteras Need Support

If you haven't trained an overgrown monstera, you might want to think about picking up a plant support – whether it's the Amazon monstera stem supports or a moss pole (like this from Walmart).

In their natural rainforest environment, monstera's use their aerial roots to climb trees. In the home, without anything to climb, their long top-heavy stems can flop. It can risk stems snapping.

Likewise, flopping stems will not get as much light as those being supported. In turn, this can cause a lack of monstera fenestrations (the iconic slits in its foliage), weaken your plant, and generally create an untidy shape as your monstera will sprawl outwards rather than grow upwards.

But, some plant supports can be quite unsightly – that's where the attractive Amazon monstera stem supports come in.

Why Shoppers Love It

Shoppers are pleased with the Amazon monstera stem supports, describing in the reviews that they're sturdy, work well, and promote healthier monstera growth.

'I was surprised at how well these worked for holding up my monstera plants. Easy to uses and strong enough to hold up heavy leaves,' one five-star reviewer says.

'Great for training the plant in the direction I need it to grow,' another shopper shares.

'They're sturdy and easy to use,' another reviewer adds.

The support simply slots onto your monstera, with different hooks holding stems up. It's easy to put in place and you can use multiple supports if you have a particularly large monstera that needs holding up in multiple places.

As one reviewer describes, the support 'blends in nicely with the plant and looks very neat.' There's no doubt it's a much more attractive alternative to the standard moss pole or plastic plant support.

The best part is, there are other styles available, like these green monstera stem supports on Amazon which would be even more unnoticeable against the green foliage.

It's hard to find a downside to these supports, especially considering they are incredibly inexpensive. Perhaps the only thing to note is they can't necessarily be used for every type of indoor plant. Yet, they are specifically designed for monsteras and work well for this.

If you have other climbing plants that need some extra support, try a houseplant trellis. This houseplant trellis from Amazon simply inserts into plant pots.

What to Shop

Not training your monstera is just one reason why your monstera may be drooping. It may also be due to overwatering, pest damage, and a lack of light. To help avoid this, check underneath leaves regularly for pests, monitor moisture levels with this Walmart soil moisture meter, and relocate your monstera closer to a bright window in fall and winter.

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Now the temperature has dropped, it's not just us retreating indoors – pests are also making their way into our homes and taking over our houseplants. One of the biggest culprits in fall is spider mites.

Indoor heating, plants being moved indoors, and improper plant care are all reasons why these indoor plant pests thrive in October. Luckily, it is possible to deter and get rid of spider mites this season, it just requires a thorough approach.

By dipping into your houseplant care kit to use a plant mister (like this from Amazon) to boost humidity, as well as cleaning houseplant leaves, you can save your houseplants from severe pest damage. Here's what you need to know.

Spider Mites in October

Spider mites are often a problem in fall due to optimal conditions for them to thrive.

These pests hate humidity and enjoy warmth, so indoor heating in fall and winter makes your home inhabitable to them. This is especially a problem if you don't adjust your fall houseplant care to boost humidity levels and adjust watering to keep plants hydrated and not dried out.

Not only this but watering mistakes causing weakened houseplants can also appeal to spider mites. Not taking care to avoid common houseplant mistakes can therefore put your plants in a vulnerable position to their damage.

That's why it's important to use a soil moisture meter (like this on Amazon) to monitor your plant's soil moisture to avoid both over and underwatering.

Likewise, you can increase humidity for indoor plants to make them unhabitable to spider mites. You can relocate plants to a bathroom or use a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart) to do this.

But, if you do find spider mites on your houseplants this October, don't fret. You can get rid of spider mites by following just a few steps.

How to Get Rid of Them

To tackle spider mites in fall, there are a few things you can do.

Firstly, isolate the affected houseplants to stop the spread. Spider mites can multiply fast, so as soon as you spot their fine webbing you should move your plant away from others.

Using sharp pruning tools (like these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Amazon) remove any heavily infested stems and foliage. Make sure to clean your pruning tools afterwards to stop the risk of spreading.

Then, clean your houseplant leaves. Gently wiping them with a damp microfiber cloth can remove the spider mites. Alternatively, wipe the leaves with neem oil (like this from Walmart). This is an organic pest control solution that deters and kills spider mites by suffocating them.

You can also shower down your houseplant to remove the majority of the pests.

Repeat this a few times every few days for 3-4 weeks to ensure all of the spider mites are gone.

Make sure to also boost humidity for your houseplants to deter spider mites going forward. Regularly spraying your houseplant with a plant mister (like this from Walmart) can help.

What to Shop

As well as safeguarding your houseplants against pest damage, there are indoor plant jobs many gardeners forget to do in fall. This includes moving houseplants away from heat sources and washing windows to allow more light in.

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Orchids are possibly the most intimidating houseplant to care for, at least they can be in the beginning. There are a lot of assumptions around orchids being difficult, but really their care is often overcomplicated. I find that doing less is more when it comes to these exotic blooms, especially as we move into fall.

In October, orchid care is super straightforward. You need to pull back on watering, relocate your orchid somewhere brighter, and wipe the leaves clean to reduce the risk of pests. The good news is the cooler room temperatures this month can also help your orchid get ready for reblooming.

There are lots of things in your houseplant care kit that can help with these tasks, including this glass plant mister from Amazon. Here, houseplant experts talk through five key jobs for orchids this October.

1. Reduce Watering

The biggest indoor plant mistake in fall is maintaining the same watering regime as in summer. Cooler temps and dormancy mean orchids aren't actively growing, nor do they need so much water. Overwatering now can lead to orchid root rot and kill off your plant.

'As temperatures cool in October, water less frequently, usually every 10 days once the potting medium dries out,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

The trick I always use to water orchids correctly is looking at the roots. Orchids have thick aerial roots that reveal a lot about their hydration – green = they don't need watering, silver = they do.

'Avoid splashing the crown and don't let the pot sit in standing water to prevent root rot,' Marina warns.

You can also use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to check your orchid's potting mix if you're unsure.

2. Wipe the Leaves Clean

Houseplant pests can take over in the fall, as they retreat into our homes for warmth and flourish in excess moisture from incorrect watering and dust left on leaves. That's why I never miss cleaning houseplant leaves in October.

For orchids specifically, cleaning foliage can brighten up the iconic glossy leaves. I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon). They're made of microfiber and can remove dust in one clean swipe.

You can also use a bit of neem oil (like this neem oil spray for plants from Walmart) to clean your orchid's leaves and protect them from pests.

'While cleaning them, it’s a great idea to look underneath the leaves and around the plant to check for pests,' adds Adrian Aviles, houseplant expert and owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop. Pests often hide underneath foliage, so it's a good idea to monitor this.

'Removing household dust in October is crucial, as clean foliage maximizes light absorption and allows the orchid to photosynthesize efficiently,' Marina adds.

3. Encourage Reblooming

If you haven't already done the September trick to get an orchid to rebloom, there's still time this month.

'As nights get cooler in October, it can encourage a new spike to grow,' Adrian explains.

This drop in temperature signals to the orchid the shift in seasons, so it prepares a new flower spike to then bloom in spring.

'Allowing temperatures to drop slightly at night to around 60-65°F for several weeks signals to the plant that it is time to set fresh flower spikes,' Marina explains.

You can therefore get an orchid to rebloom by placing your orchid somewhere cooler in the house. This could be a bathroom or a room that has a noticeably cooler temperature at night in fall.

'Just make sure to keep the orchid in bright indirect light and away from cold drafts,' Adrian notes.

This room thermometer from Walmart can help monitor the temperatures for your orchid.

4. Relocate for Brighter Light

A key part of fall houseplant care is relocating houseplants so they have sufficient light exposure. Daylight hours drop this month and leaving your orchid in a corner that was previously bright but is now darker risks weakening it.

'With shorter fall days, moth orchids need sufficient light to sustain growth. Move your plant closer to an east- or south-facing window,' Marina recommends.

Ideally, orchids should receive at least 5-6 hours of indirect bright light. If needed, you can use a grow light for houseplants to boost light levels. This grow light from Amazon has a beautiful wooden finish and a timer for convenient use.

'Rotate the pot regularly for balanced leaf growth, but stop rotating once a flower spike appears so it does not twist or grow crooked,' Marina adds.

Houseplant rotation, as Marina describes, helps prevent leggy, weak growth, which is a common fall problem.

5. Boost Humidity Levels

Another common fall problem is houseplants experiencing dry air due to things like heating. For tropical houseplants and moisture-lovers like orchids, this is bad news. It may cause wrinkled foliage and a general decline in their health.

'Moth orchids thrive in 50% humidity or higher, but as indoor heating turns on in October, indoor air dries out quickly,' Marina says. 'Keep your orchid away from direct heat sources and drafts, boost moisture using a humidity tray or room humidifier, and ensure gentle airflow to keep the foliage healthy,' she suggests.

As Marina notes, you can boost humidity for indoor plants by using things like a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) or a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart). I also place my orchids in the bathroom to banish wrinkled leaves, as these plants love to soak up the extra moisture and humidity from the shower.

What to Shop

As your orchids make new flower spikes over fall and winter, don't forget to train new orchid flower spikes so they grow upright. Allowing them to grow without any support can result in top-heavy flower spikes snapping and flopping when in bloom. You can use this set of orchid stakes and clips from Amazon.

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Repotting houseplants is an essential task that can't be ignored. As out beloved houseplants outgrow their containers, they need to size up to keep growing healthily. Fail to do so and you send them on their way to a slow decline, inevitably ending in the death of your plant.

While it's true there are houseplants that enjoy being slightly root-bound, most houseplants will thank you for repotting. It's best to do so in early-mid spring or early fall, when you can take advantage of temperate growing conditions to help your plants recover. With more space, roots can breathe and take up water and nutrients much more effectively, supporting the overall growth of your plants. It will help keep yellowing leaves at bay, wilting, and even pest problems.

It can seem daunting at first to remove your houseplant from its pot, but once you get the hang of it it's quite a quick job. Different houseplants may require slightly different methods, but for the most part you can follow the below steps to repot a houseplant successfully (tip: add this Amazon potting mat to your houseplant care kit to make this a mess-free task).

1. Check the Roots

The type of plant you have will depend on how often you need to repot houseplants, based on how fast they grow and how tolerant of being root-bound they are. Generally speaking, the most popular indoor plants can be repot every 1-3 years, but you should assess the roots to determine this.

Gently lift your houseplant out of its pot to look at the root health. If the roots still have plenty of room to grow and aren't wrapping around each other into a solid mass, your plant doesn't need repotting just yet. On the contrary, they will need to be if more room is needed.

Other symptoms that indicate it might be time to repot a houseplant is that its soil has become hydrophobic (i.e. houseplant soil won't absorb water) and foliage is yellowing despite there being no other issues, such as watering and pest problems. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) can help identify if there are any hydration issues.

2. Gently Remove the Plant from Its Pot

To remove your houseplants from its existing pot, gently lift it. If it's proving to be a bit stuck, you can gently twist to loosen the soil and roots, or use this repotting trowel from Amazon.

You may want to do this over a potting mat (like this from IKEA) to keep your floor tidy and to catch excess potting mix that escapes. Our collection of potting tools and accessories has more products that may be useful when repotting your houseplants.

Having this workspace also gives you the option of turning the plant upside down to remove it. Support the plant at its base with one hand when doing this, so it doesn't fall out and get damaged.

3. Prune Damaged Roots

Before giving your houseplants a new home, take the time to prune houseplant roots that are damaged. This will protect the plant from declining health and pest problems, as well as help it settle into its new pot much more smoothly.

You can use sharp pruning tools to do this. These Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Amazon are the perfect size.

Remove any houseplant roots that are mushy and rotting by making clean cuts. So long as the majority of the root ball stays intact, this won't affect your houseplant. Likewise stick to the one third pruning rule to avoid shocking your plant.

You may also find you need to gently tease any compacted roots apart. Do this gently with your hands, loosening the mass of roots to they can grow freely once in the new plant pot.

4. Repot into a Larger Container

If you need to repot a houseplant because it's run out of room in its existing container, select a pot the next size or two up – for example, upgrade an 8-inch plant pot for a 10-inch plant pot (like this beautiful ceramic floral one from Amazon).

I always use repotting as an opportunity to give my houseplants some fresh potting mix, packed with essential plant nutrients. The Miracle-Gro houseplant potting mix at Walmart is a good option.

Alternatively, you can attempt to make your own orchid potting mix or make you own peace lily potting mix etc. Or, you may simply wish to add a soil amendment for extra drainage, such as this perlite from Lowe's.

When repotting your houseplant into the new container, gently press down around its base to secure in place, avoiding any damage to roots.

5. Water Deeply

The final step to repot a houseplant successfully is water deeply to help it settle into its new container.

You can use the bottom watering method or even soak your houseplant for 20 minutes if it has a drainage hole in its pot to ensure the roots are properly hydrated.

Just keep in mind your plant's watering needs and don't make the common indoor plant mistake of oversaturating the soil (especially in fall and winter). A soil moisture meter (also available from Walmart) can help you identify when your plant's soil has sufficiently dried to water again.

What to Shop

Repotting houseplants is just one element of the fall houseplant care checklist. Don't forget to also adjust watering, relocate houseplants closer to windows, and remove any damaged leaves. Houseplant rotation can also be a good practice at this time of year, to discourage leggy growth.

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October is the time to prepare your Christmas cactus for its holiday display. A few simple adjustments to light, temperature, and watering can help encourage a beautiful flush of blooms in time for the holidays.

With its arching stems and colorful flowers, a Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) brings welcome color indoors as the days grow shorter. Native to the Brazilian rainforests, this tropical houseplant needs different care from desert cacti, preferring bright, indirect light, well-draining soil, and consistent moisture.

Good Christmas cactus care in October is all about creating the right conditions for flowering. Longer nights and cooler temperatures help trigger buds, while steady watering and a stable environment help prevent them from dropping before they open.

1. Give Your Christmas Cactus Longer Nights

One of the most important steps in October is giving your Christmas cactus enough darkness to encourage flowering. Shorter days help trigger bud formation, but artificial light in the evening can interfere with the process.

For the best results, give your plant 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night for around four to six weeks. If you're wondering where to place a Christmas cactus, choose a spot with bright, indirect light during the day and move it to a naturally dark room overnight if your home stays brightly lit. Alternatively, cover it with a lightproof covering, removing it each morning to allow the plant to receive daylight.

If your home lacks natural daylight, a grow light can help keep your plant healthy during the day. The top-rated SANSI 10W LED Puck Grow Light, available on Amazon, features a timer and dimming settings, making it a practical option for a dimmer room. Just be sure to switch it off well before the plant's nighttime darkness period begins.

Getting your Christmas cactus in the dark at the right time is key to encouraging a festive display. You can also use a simple blackout plant cover to block evening light, removing it each morning and ensuring adequate ventilation.

2. Keep It Cool, but Protect It From Temperature Swings

Cooler nighttime temperatures can help trigger flowering, making October the perfect time to reassess where your Christmas cactus sits. Aim for nighttime temperatures of around 55–65°F and daytime temperatures of 65–70°F to encourage bud formation alongside long, uninterrupted nights.

Avoid placing your plant near heating vents, fireplaces, or drafty windows, where sudden temperature changes and dry air can cause stress and encourage buds to drop. If your home is particularly warm, a cooler bedroom or guest room may offer a better environment.

A simple indoor Digital Hygrometer Thermometer from Amazon can help you monitor both temperature and humidity, making it easier to maintain consistent conditions as the heating season begins. Choose one with a clear display and a built-in humidity monitor for an at-a-glance check.

If you live in a warmer part of the country, focus on finding the coolest suitable indoor spot and maintaining consistent nighttime darkness. Bring your Christmas cactus indoors before temperatures drop too low, and never expose it to frost.

3. Adjust Your Watering Routine

As temperatures drop and your Christmas cactus prepares to flower, it may need less frequent watering than it did during summer. However, unlike desert cacti, it shouldn't be left in completely dry potting mix for extended periods.

To know when to water a Christmas cactus, check the top inch of soil. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until excess moisture drains from the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer to prevent the roots from sitting in water.

Overwatering is one of the most common Christmas cactus care mistakes. Soggy soil can lead to root rot, while prolonged dryness can stress the plant and cause developing flower buds to drop.

Your watering routine will depend on indoor temperatures, humidity, pot size, and the potting mix. A plant in a warm, dry home may need water more often than one in a cooler room. The XLUX Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you check conditions below the soil's surface, particularly if you're unsure when to water.

Use it alongside a fingertip check rather than relying on a reading alone, and always make sure your pot has drainage holes.

4. Find a Bright Spot Away From Harsh Sunlight

Although Christmas cacti need long nights to flower, they still require plenty of light during the day to keep their segmented stems healthy and support bud development. An east-facing window is ideal, offering gentle morning sunshine and bright, indirect light. A north-facing window can also work in a bright room, while south- or west-facing windows may need a sheer curtain to filter intense afternoon rays.

If your cactus has spent summer on a shaded porch or patio, bring it indoors before fall temperatures drop too low, and check for pests before placing it near other houseplants.

Also, if your home doesn't get much natural daylight, a GE LED Grow Light Bulb from Target or Amazon is a practical option. Use it to provide additional daytime illumination, but switch it off in the evening to preserve the long, uninterrupted nights the plant needs to encourage flowering and ensure your Christmas cactus blooms year after year.

5. Leave the Plant Undisturbed When Buds Appear

Once tiny flower buds appear at the ends of your Christmas cactus's stem segments, keep changes to a minimum. Sudden shifts in light, temperature, or watering can lead to buds falling off before they have a chance to open. Keep your plant in a stable position, maintain a consistent care routine, and avoid repotting while it's preparing to flower.

Indoor heating can also dry out the air during fall and winter. If your home feels particularly dry, a small DREO Smart Humidifier from Amazon can help maintain more comfortable humidity levels around your plant. Position it nearby rather than directly against the foliage, and ensure the potting mix drains freely to prevent root problems.

There's also no need to encourage fresh growth with heavy fertilizing at this stage. If you've fed your plant throughout spring and summer, focus on consistent care instead. With the right conditions, the buds should gradually swell and open over the coming weeks, although flowering times vary by variety and growing environment.

The necessary attention in October can make all the difference to your Christmas cactus's holiday display. Prioritize long, uninterrupted nights, cooler temperatures, bright, indirect light, and careful watering, keeping conditions consistent as flower buds develop.

With the right care now, your plant will be well on its way to producing a vibrant flush of blooms, bringing welcome color to your home for the holidays and for years to come.

October is the month to give your Thanksgiving cactus the right care to set the stage for its holiday show. As days grow shorter and temperatures cool, this tropical houseplant gets the seasonal cues it needs to form flower buds – and what you do now can make a big difference in how well it blooms.

If your Thanksgiving cactus has spent the summer growing on a shaded porch or patio, October marks an important turning point. Across much of the U.S., cooler nights and longer periods of darkness signal that it’s time to prepare for its annual display of colorful flowers.

Good Thanksgiving cactus care at this time of year is less about doing more and more about avoiding the wrong moves. Too much water, unnecessary moving, or other changes once buds begin to form can lead to bud drop before the flowers open.

You don’t need a complicated routine. With the right light, temperature, watering habits, and a little patience, you can help your plant produce more buds and stay healthy through fall. Here are the most important things to do in October.

1. Bring It Inside Before the First Frost

If your Thanksgiving cactus has been enjoying summer outdoors, bring it inside before nights turn too cold. Unlike desert cacti, this tropical plant can’t tolerate freezing temperatures, so don’t wait for the first frost. Once nighttime temperatures start dipping, it’s time to move it indoors.

Before bringing it inside, check the stems, leaf segments, and soil for aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Even a healthy-looking plant can harbor pests. A small magnifying glass can help you spot them, while a ready-to-use insecticidal soap such as Garden Safe Insecticidal Soap, available at Amazon, can tackle minor infestations. For a broader pest problem, BioAdvanced Houseplant Insect & Mite Control, sold at Home Depot, is another option. Always follow the label directions and keep a newly treated plant away from other houseplants until you’re sure the pests are gone.

Gardeners in warmer parts of the South and West may be able to leave their plants outdoors a little longer, but a sudden cold snap can happen anywhere. Keep an eye on the forecast and bring your Thanksgiving cactus in before temperatures get too low.

2. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Once indoors, place your Thanksgiving cactus somewhere bright but out of harsh afternoon sun. An east-facing window is ideal for gentle morning light, while a bright north-facing window can also work well. If you’re using a south- or west-facing window, filter strong rays with a sheer curtain.

If natural light is limited, supplement it with a full-spectrum LED grow light, such as the GooingTop LED Grow Light 6000K, available on Amazon. Its clip-on design, dimming settings, and timer make it a practical choice for a single houseplant.

Too little light can mean weak growth and fewer blooms, while intense direct sun can scorch the plant. Aim for plenty of bright, indirect light rather than hours of blazing sunshine.

3. Let It Experience Long, Dark Nights

This is one of the biggest secrets to getting your Thanksgiving cactus to bloom. As a short-day plant, it needs long, uninterrupted nights to trigger flower-bud formation. Aim for at least 12 hours of darkness each night for several weeks, and keep the plant away from lamps or other artificial light after sunset.

You don't need to tuck it into a closet. A naturally dark room is usually easiest. If evening lights make that difficult, a simple outlet timer such as the BLACK+DECKER Indoor Light Programmable Timer, available at Amazon, can help keep nearby lamps on a consistent schedule so the plant gets the uninterrupted darkness it needs.

Once buds appear, you can return the plant to its usual bright daytime location.

4. Don't Overwater It

Fall watering calls for a little restraint. Although the Thanksgiving cactus is tropical, it doesn't like sitting in constantly wet soil. Check the potting mix before watering; when the surface has started to dry, water thoroughly and let the excess drain from the bottom. Always empty the saucer afterward.

As daylight decreases and indoor temperatures change, your plant may use water more slowly than it did in summer. An XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available on Amazon, can make it easier to check moisture levels before watering. For precise, gentle watering, a Haws Indoor Plastic Watering Can is another useful addition to your houseplant toolkit.

Don't water simply because a certain number of days have passed – the soil, not the calendar, should tell you when it's time.

5. Stop Pruning and Go Easy on Fertilizer

October isn't the time for major pruning. Your Thanksgiving cactus may have developed long, sprawling stems over summer, but those segments can help support its upcoming flowers. A heavy trim now could mean fewer blooms later. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased sections as needed, but save substantial pruning for after flowering.

The same goes for fertilizer. If you've been feeding your plant through spring and summer, there's generally no need to encourage more growth in October. Your goal now is flowers – not a bigger plant.

If you need to make a clean cut, Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available at The Home Depot, are a handy choice for removing individual segments without disturbing the rest of the plant.

6. Leave It Alone Once Buds Appear

This may be the hardest advice for enthusiastic plant parents: once flower buds appear, stop moving your Thanksgiving cactus around. Sudden changes in temperature, light, or watering can trigger bud drop at the worst possible time.

Keep the plant away from heating vents, cold drafts, and other temperature swings, and try to maintain a consistent watering routine. A simple Lasko Small Portable Space Heater from The Home Depot can help keep a room comfortable, but place it well away from the plant and never aim warm air directly at it.

Choose a good location before the buds develop, then let your cactus settle in. Once those tiny buds appear along the stem tips, your best move is often to leave the plant right where it is and let it do its thing.

7. Keep Your Expectations Flexible

Despite its name, your Thanksgiving cactus doesn't have to bloom precisely on Thanksgiving. Some plants flower in early November, while others bloom later. Temperature, light, variety, growing conditions, and the plant's natural growth cycle can all affect timing.

And don't confuse Thanksgiving cactus with Christmas cactus. They're closely related and often sold interchangeably, but Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) typically has more pointed, claw-like projections along the edges of its stem segments and tends to bloom earlier.

If you're looking to identify yours, a Thanksgiving Cactus from Plant Addicts can provide a useful visual reference. Either way, a healthy plant can reward you with weeks of colorful blooms throughout the holiday season.

Shop October Thanksgiving Cactus Care

The best Thanksgiving cactus care this month isn't complicated. Give your plant bright, indirect light, long, uninterrupted nights, moderate watering, and protection from temperature extremes. Once buds appear, leave the plant where it is and let it do the rest.

Those tiny buds are the promise of weeks of vibrant blooms. Keep conditions steady now, and your Thanksgiving cactus will be ready for its holiday show.

Over the last few years of collecting houseplants, I've had to get quite creative with finding room to display all of them. A plant stand is one of my favorite solutions, utilizing vertical space and doubling the capacity of my indoor garden.

But, I haven't seen an indoor plant stand as clever as the IKEA ALPVIDE plant stand. Its two trays actually lift so you can carry them to the sink for watering. Even better, the raised edges mean the top tray can double as a workbench to repot plants without potting soil escaping. Or, you can use the trays to neatly store all your houseplant care accessories – really, it's super versatile.

The fact it's white is also a perk, quietly slotting into a wide range of interiors. To me, this is a space-saving piece to level up any indoor garden just in time for fall.

A Versatile Plant Stand

If you're looking for a low-effort way to create a vertical indoor garden, this IKEA ALPVIDE plant stand is an easy solution.

With two generous trays, it doubles the space for displaying plants. When full of a mix of variegated indoor plants (like this Thai Constellation Monstera from The Sill) and textural indoor ferns, you can create the look of an abundant green wall.

Or, you can use the plant stand to store all of your houseplant accessories. I personally love watering cans, plant misters, and pruning shears that look beautiful on display in between use. This glass plant mister from Wayfair, for example, is decorative in its own right.

I also love the fact the trays have a raised edge and can be wiped clean. It offers the possibility of using the top shelf as a mini potting bench. It would catch any potting soil, making it a good workspace for repotting and tending to plants.

This makes it a good alternative to having to lay out a potting mat (though IKEA have a beautiful striped one), with the shelf being at a good height to work at.

However you choose to use it, I think the minimalist design and versatile use makes it a valuable piece to add to your indoor garden.

What Shoppers Say

With a 4.3-star rating, the reviews reveal shoppers are hugely satisfied with this purchase.

'I am IN LOVE with this plant stand! The removable top tray is a game changer for me, especially with certain plants,' one five-star reviewer writes.

If you style houseplants on this plant shelf in pots with drainage holes (like these terracotta pots from Amazon), the tray can be used as a water saucer. Simply remove it from the stand and take it over to the sink to add some water for bottom watering.

'I’m using the bottom shelf for my plant sprays and two small baskets that hold the tools and supplies I regularly use for my houseplants, so it’s both beautiful AND genuinely functional,' the reviewer continues.

'[It] allows for sun-loving plants on top and the partial sun plants below,' another person adds.

As for assembly, shoppers say it's pretty straightforward.

'Easy to assemble and holds all my plants,' another shopper writes.

'It was easy to put together, it's lightweight to carry, but sturdy enough for your plants,' another reviewer reads.

Something to note, of course, is the price tag is quite high at $79.99. However, the function and aesthetic of the plant stand seems to have won over customers, who are already planning repeat purchases.

'Would I love it more at a slightly lower price? Sure. But clearly the price isn’t stopping me because I’m already planning to buy another one,' one reviewer shares.

Shop Our IKEA Edit

As well as using plant stands, you can layer houseplants to create a more abundant arrangement. You can also use houseplants for fall interiors to bring some warmth to your living room this season.

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If there's one houseplant task to get right in fall, it's watering. Cooler temperatures and lower sunlight levels mean soil is drying out much slower this season, ultimately meaning your plants need less watering.

It's an essential part of fall houseplant care, where our precious indoor plants are susceptible to root rot, pest damage, and fungal diseases from too much water. At the same time, you don't want to pull back on watering altogether. Allowing plants to sit in drought through fall can cause dehydration and cause them to fade away.

Striking the balance can be tricky to figure out, but with the right houseplant care kit to hand you'll soon master this skill. Here, I talk through everything you need to know about identifying when to water your plants, how to do it, and the tools I often rely on to avoid watering mistakes this season (this Amazon soil moisture meter is a good place to start).

When to Water Houseplants in Fall

The best lesson I ever learned about watering houseplants is that you should abandon a set schedule. Environmental and seasonal factors constantly change how frequently houseplant soil is drying out and therefore how much water your plant needs. Instead, I always check the soil before picking up my watering can.

You can either use a soil moisture meter (which is also available from Walmart) or feel the soil with your finger. The crucial part is to not trust the moisture level of soil surface only, you need to check how wet the soil is further down to determine whether the roots have access to moisture.

In fact, it's a common fall problem for houseplant soil to form a crust on the surface, generally from indoor heating drying it out too quickly. It doesn't necessarily mean the soil below is dry and there may actually be moisture trapped beneath. It can also be the result of a build-up of salts and minerals from tap water and summer fertilizer.

If this is the case, I recommend removing the top layer, flushing the soil, and applying a fresh top layer. You may also want to consider not using tap water for houseplants to avoid this happening again.

Generally speaking, you should water houseplants once the top 1-2 inches have dried out. However, I encourage doing some deeper research into the specific needs of your plants – thirsty houseplants will need much more water than those who tolerate drought, like succulents and cacti.

How to Water Houseplants in Fall

There are a few methods you can use to water houseplants in fall.

Of course, you can use a houseplant watering can (one like this from Amazon with a narrow spout helps reach the base of your plants). Though, this is often the method most likely to result in overwatering.

Bottom watering houseplants is more effective in terms of hydrating plant roots without oversaturating them. This requires a plant pot with a saucer (like this ceramic one from Wayfair), where plants soak up just as much water as needed. A self-watering planter has a space for a reservoir which works in the same way (Amazon has sets of self-watering planters so you can use them for your entire indoor garden).

You can also use the deep watering method, soaking houseplants in a sink for 20 minutes before allowing them to drain. In fall, you'll only need to do this every other week. This will allow houseplants to fully hydrate, but take care not to do this with the houseplants most susceptible to root rot – with soil drying out slowly this season, too much water in the pot can put them at risk.

There are also some watering gadgets that can help keep houseplants watered to the right level in fall. A houseplant irrigation system (like this from Amazon) will water plants when it detects dry soil, so you don't have to remember to.

Self-watering spikes (like these from Walmart) are also handy, though I would recommend these for summer more so than fall. They provide a gradual release of moisture, ensuring plants don't dry out.

What to Shop

Alongside adjusting watering, there are indoor plant jobs many gardeners forget to do in fall. This includes checking underneath foliage for pests and moving houseplants away from heat sources.

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Houseplants go through a seasonal shift come September, as the growing season wraps up and they prepare for winter dormancy. Chinese money plants (Pilea peperomioides) are no different and come with their own set of needs this month.

If you grow a Chinese money plant, the good news is September tasks aren't hard to do. It's all about moving your plant back indoors (if it spent summer in the garden), adjusting watering to avoid issues like root rot, and rotating it so it copes with lower light levels in fall. You can even propagate your Chinese money plant this month if it has 'pups.'

Everything you need to carry out this essential care is in our houseplant care kit collection. So, with your Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's to hand, here's what to do with a Chinese money plant in September.

1. Move It Back Indoors

It's beneficial to place houseplants outdoors in summer, allowing them to soak up sun, warmth, and the breeze. But, when temperatures start to turn in September, it's important to move houseplants back indoors so they aren't caught in the cold.

'Temperatures below 50°F cause die back. You’ll want to keep it safe as temperatures dip,' explains Juliet Howe, award-winning horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design.

When preventing pests when moving houseplants back indoors, remember to check underneath foliage. I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon) to give foliage a wipe clean.

2. Reduce Watering

One of the most important parts of fall houseplant care is adjusting watering frequency.

'Cooler days with less light, bring slower growth and less water consumption. Now is the time to stop watering on a schedule and water only when needed,' says Juliet.

Watering too frequently where the soil is taking longer to dry out can make your Chinese money plant susceptible to houseplant root rot and fungal issues.

'A good way to know when to water is to touch the soil. If the soil is dry up to the knuckle, it is time to water. Alternatively, try the bottom watering technique. When the soil is dry down to the bottom of the pot and the leaves have begun to droop slightly, place the plant in a saucer, pan or even a sink of water for about 30 minutes or until the soil is moist up to the top, then remove it from the water,' Juliet advises.

I like to use my Amazon soil moisture meter to check my houseplants' soil every time before watering.

3. Protect From Drafts

When choosing where to place your Chinese money plant for fall and winter, consider two things: light and temperature.

'A place with abundant, indirect light is ideal, like a south or southeast facing window,' says Juliet.

'Be careful of drafty windows that will expose your plant to freezing temperatures or radiators that will blast it with hot, dry air,' she adds.

Ideally, your Chinese money plant should receive 6-8 hours of bright light. You can use this grow light from Walmart to supplement light if needed.

Likewise, its ideal temperature is 60-75°F, but in fall and winter you should focus on avoiding freezing temps, as Juliet advises. This could cause browning foliage, drooping, and leaf drop.

This simple room thermometer from Walmart can help keep an eye on temperatures for your Chinese money plant.

4. Rotate Weekly

Houseplant rotation is one of the best things you can practice for your indoor plants in fall and winter.

'Rotate the pot once a week so the plant grows evenly,' Juliet describes.

By rotating your Chinese money plant's pot once a week, you ensure it receives equal exposure and encourages a more symmetrical silhouette.

It can help avoid leggy growth in September and beyond, strengthen your plant, and maintain a much more aesthetic shape.

A plant caddy (this one from Amazon has an integrated water saucer) makes it much more convenient to turn the pot regularly.

5. Propagate Pups

September is a good time to propagate Chinese money plants if they have 'pups,' or offsets

'The Pilea peperomioides is also known as the Friendship Plant. This is because it is exceptionally easy to propagate and share,' says Juliet.

'This plant produces little offsets or 'pups' around its base which are extremely easy to separate, pot and give to friends.

September is the perfect time to pot-up pups while there is still plenty of natural light and warmth for them to take root before winter,' she explains.

You may need clean and sharp pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to remove the offsets. Optionally, you can use this rooting hormone powder from Walmart to speed up houseplant propagation.

What to Shop

Chinese money plants are also among the luckiest houseplants in some cultures, including Feng Shui. You can reap these rewards by keeping on top of optimal care and ensuring your Chinese money plant's needs are met in every season. Our guide to Feng Shui houseplant mistakes has more information you may find useful.

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It's a common problem for houseplants to look a little leggy as we go through seasonal shifts. In September, straggly, weak growth is usually the result of significantly darker conditions, causing your plants to become stressed.

It's a indoor plant problem I've dealt with many times, but the good news is it's fairly straightforward to fix. When houseplants are accustomed to brighter light in summer, suddenly receiving much less light (for example, if they're tucked away from a window) can result in leggy growth as the plant searches for more light.

I turn to my houseplant care kit to prune away this weak growth and gradually acclimate my houseplants to a more optimal position with more light exposure. And it's really as simple as that – you just need a pair of reliable houseplant pruning snips to hand (like these from Amazon).

What Causes Leggy Houseplants in September?

An essential part of fall houseplant care is helping plants adjust to changing growing conditions. This includes lower light and less hours of light exposure.

When houseplants that thrive in brighter light suddenly receive far less, it can result in a stress response: stretched, weak growth that is searching for light. The fact many houseplants are still actively growing in September means there is one last growth spurt that is not being supported with sufficient light levels.

You can use this houseplant meter from Amazon to determine if your plants are receiving enough light.

The problem with leggy houseplant growth is that not only does it weaken the plant and result in long stems more susceptible to snapping, it looks unsightly. This is particular the case when it causes plant stems to be long and sparse, with big gaps between leaves (a common problem for succulents).

In turn, your houseplant becoming weak right before the coldest months makes it much more vulnerable to the cooler room temperatures and houseplant pest damage.

That's why I act as soon as I notice my houseplant's starting to look a little lopsided and leggy.

How to Fix It

There are a few steps I follow when trying to revive a houseplant from leggy growth. Just remember some patience is needed to nurture it back to good health, so don't expect an instant improvement.

1. To help a leggy houseplant recover properly, it's important to acclimate it to a more optimal position. Each houseplant has its own specific light needs, but fall and winter generally call for positioning closer to windows – you can also use a grow light to supplement light if needed (this grow light from Amazon has a convenient timer). You can gradually reposition it by moving your houseplant closer to a window for a few hours each day, giving it a gentle introduction to its new home.
2. Once acclimated, use houseplant pruning snips (these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's are a good choice) to cut back the leggy growth. You should cut just below a leaf node where new growth will emerge. Just take care not to prune more than one third of the plant, which may cause further stress. And keep in mind the shape you're creating when pruning, so you get a more aesthetic end result.
3. Practice houseplant rotation going forward. This is where you simply rotate your houseplants, say once a week, so each side receives equal exposure to light. In fall and winter especially, this can help create a more symmetrical shape and prevent further leggy growth. I find a plant caddy (like this wooden one from Wayfair) makes this much easier to do.

Bonus: Propagate Your Cuttings

Depending on the condition of the stems you prune off your leggy houseplants, you can grow houseplants with cuttings to multiply your collection.

You may find rooting hormone (like this rooting hormone powder from Amazon) helps speed up houseplant propagation. However, September is a favorable time to root cuttings, with lingering warmer temperatures and the final days of summer daylight.

What to Shop

Houseplants can be such a joy in fall and winter when the garden has gone to sleep. As well as ensuring they stay healthy, you can use houseplants for fall color to create a beautiful botanical spectacle for your home.

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As my houseplant collection continues to grow and take over every room in my house, I'm having to think of new ways to maximize space and make my indoor garden look curated, rather than cluttered. One of my favorite tools to use is a plant stand.

Indoor plant stands provide vertical space to display beloved houseplants, doubling the room you have available. I recently spotted the new IKEA BLÅKRÅKA plant stand and can't wait to get my hands on it. It's modern in design, with a clever box shelf that keeps plants contained. The best part is it's made for outdoor use, too, so it can work well for saving space on your patio.

I appreciate the fact the legs can be adjusted so plants can sit level on uneven surfaces. I really do think this is a houseplant care staple for any home, where the neutral color quietly slots into a wide range of interior styles.

For Indoors and Outdoors

This plant stand can be used in an indoor garden or to create a vertical garden on your patio.

It's powder-coated steel, making it weather-resistant. Plus, it can be wiped clean with a damp cloth. The fact the feet can be adjusted means uneven patio slabs won't be an issue, so you can set it to sit level.

Indoors, it doubles your space for plants by elevating them off the ground. The fact its narrow is also a space-saving bonus, so you could use it in entryways or to add some greenery to a smaller room.

The hole design on the box shelf not only looks nice, but it also means there's some airflow. This is important when placing plants so close together, as moisture can become trapped and cause issues like powdery mildew and rot.

How I Would Style It

I personally think this IKEA BLÅKRÅKA plant stand can become a statement piece in my indoor garden by filling it with lots of different plants with interesting foliage, mulch like the image above.

Variegated indoor plants (like this tricolor stromanthe from Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees) alongside textural indoor ferns and trailing houseplants (like this golden pothos from IKEA) can create a beautiful botanical spectacle for the home.

For maximalist impact, I would then place indoor low-light plants underneath the shelf (ferns are also a good choice for this, like this Boston fern from Walmart). The effect would be a green wall for my living room – an abundant indoor garden in a compact space.

Outdoors, you can use the ground space to neatly store terracotta planters, tools, and bags of compost.

Shop Our IKEA Houseplant Edit

The IKEA BLÅKRÅKA plant stand is perfect for layering houseplants to make the most of space and create a curated look. When deciding where to position your different plants, don't make the common indoor plant mistake of neglecting how much light they need. Those that can tolerate lower light can sit beneath the shelf, for example.

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Fall can be a challenging time in the indoor garden, with unpredictable temperatures and humidity creating a bit of an unstable environment. I'm always aware of how my heating in particular creates drier air in my home, not ideal for the tropical houseplants I've collected over the years.

That's where my favorite fall houseplant hack comes in: using a humidifier for houseplants. It's much more effective (and far less effort) than relying on a plant mister or even a pebble tray. Take this Levoit humidifier for houseplants from Amazon, for example. It allows you to set the exact humidity percentage for your specific plant's needs through an app, while operating quietly and subtly slotting into interiors with its sleek design.

The best part is its sensor automatically adjusts humidity levels as needed, maintaining optimal conditions to keep yellowing leaves at bay, deter pests like spider mites, and even keep foliage looking glossy. 'My plants (I have a few pothos and an orchid) have been thriving since I started using it – the air just feels less dry overall,' one happy reviewer writes. Trust me, this is a houseplant care kit essential you need if your beloved plants always struggle through fall and winter.

When to Use a Humidifier for Houseplants

You can use a humidifier for houseplants year-round, whenever you're looking to increase humidity for indoor plants. However, it's a particularly useful tool for fall houseplant care, where indoor air can feel drier due to things like heating and cooler temperatures.

This will keep tropical indoor plants in particular much happier, as it much more closely replicates their natural environment in rainforests, for example. You'll notice leaves looking glossier and plants standing upright as a result.

It can also keep houseplant leaves clean and help deter houseplant pests, including spider mites which thrive in dry, dusty environments.

However, you should take care to avoid overusing a humidifier around your houseplants, which may harness an environment for fungal diseases like powdery mildew and mold. Likewise, plants that enjoy drier conditions (like succulents) may become susceptible to root rot if continuously exposed to a humidifier.

Always place your humidifier near moisture-loving plants and maintain good airflow by taking breaks from running it, periodically opening windows, and spacing houseplants so they have room to breathe.

Why Shoppers Love It

This Levoi humidifier for houseplants has a 4.4-star rating with thousands of reviews from happy shoppers who say it's easy to operate and has made a noticeable difference to plant health and home humidity more widely.

'The app control is a nice touch – I can check and adjust humidity levels right from my phone without getting up, and voice control through my smart assistant makes it even more convenient for quick adjustments,' one five-star reviewer writes.

There's no doubt the smart operation of the humidifier makes it so much more convenient to care for houseplants, especially if you're away on vacation. You can adjust the humidity level for a specific plant's needs, the duration of the humidifier being on, and so on.

'What I appreciate most is how consistently it maintains the humidity level I set, rather than the up-and-down swings I got with my old humidifier,' the reviewer adds.

It's also worth mentioning the humidifier is designed to be quiet when operating, so won't be disturbing for nighttime use. Plus, the blue-light setting makes it even more unobtrusive if you place it in a bedroom.

'The big tank is nicely shaped and crystal clear like glass, and the central steam column with the night light creates a very nice aesthetic,' one person describes.

As for maintenance, this humidifier is easy to clean. The listing notes 'Silver ions keep your humidifier protected from microbial growth for up to 28 days.' Meanwhile, the humidifier comes apart easily to properly clean each part.

'It isn't hard to clean this humidifier but there are quite a few parts to clean, which is one reason I use only distilled water! You don't get the mineral deposit build up and cleaning can be done much less frequently,' one shopper recommends.

The price is worth noting. It's a bit more expensive at $79.99 (currently on sale for $69.99), compared to cheaper models like this $16 portable humidifier from Walmart. However, these cheaper models don't always allow for accurate humidity levels, rather having simple high and low settings.

'If you're considering this unit, it's probably for the smart features,' one reviewer says. 'You can set schedules, timers, mist intensity, change the light temperature and brightness, and target what humidity level you want,' they describe.

Being able to control all of these factors is essential for optimal houseplant care, and so for me, the price is justified. It's a neat gadget to take your indoor garden to the next level this fall.

What to Shop

As well as improving your houseplant's environment for fall and winter, there are a few common indoor plant mistakes to avoid. This includes the biggest September houseplant care mistake of continuing to fertilize plants as they slow down and enter dormancy.

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September is a transitional month in the indoor garden, as many houseplants are slowing down and preparing for dormancy. It means that care for the likes of a jade plant starts to change from the routine you kept in summer.

Growing a jade plant is very straightforward and low-effort year-round, but it is important to adjust how often you water it and where it's located as daylight and temperature changes this month. Failing to do so can unintentionally harm your jade plant, weaking it before the most challenging winter conditions arrive, potentially killing it off.

That's why I always tick off a few key tasks in September to rejuvenate my jade plant after a tiring summer of growth and set it up for the incoming cooler season. So, with an Amazon soil moisture meter to hand (and the rest of your houseplant care kit), here's where to start.

1. Relocate It Somewhere Brighter

As my attention turns to fall houseplant care in September, one of the first things I do is reposition my jade plant so it receives adequate light.

While a jade plant may turn red in a south-facing windowsill during scorching summer heat, this spot during fall can provide the 4-6 hours of bright light these succulents need.

Further away from a windowsill may be too dark as daylight hours deplete. Leaving a jade plant in this position with too little light can encourage leggy and stretched growth, weakening it and causing a less aesthetic silhouette.

If you do find your jade plant becoming leggy, cut back to just above a leaf node and gradually improve light exposure to encourage fuller growth. You can use these Fiskars micro-tip snips on Amazon to do this.

2. Reduce Watering

Jade plants actively grow during spring and summer, during which they require regular watering to stay hydrated in hotter weather. Come late summer and early fall, they require much less water.

As succulents, jade plants are susceptible to overwatering and root rot, so it's best to allow them to dry out completely between watering. The thing to be aware of this month is cooler temperatures will dry out the soil more slowly, so you won't need to pick up the watering can as frequently.

For this reason, I always use my soil moisture meter (which you can also find at Walmart) before watering my jade plant. You can also use the bottom watering houseplants method to properly hydrate the roots if you're nervous about overwatering.

3. Check For Pests

After a hot, dry summer, September is a good time to check over your jade plants for pest and diseases. Mealybugs, scale and spider mites in particular thrive in the drier conditions of summer and if not stopped, can quickly take over and kill houseplants.

Fall can also bring a lot of houseplant pests indoors and populations can explode. I like to regularly check underneath my jade plant's foliage for any hiding pests and handle it as soon as its spotted.

Cleaning houseplant leaves with these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon can help deter pests, as well as using organic neem oil (you can use this neem oil for plants from Walmart) to make your plants less habitable for them.

4. Stop Fertilizing

You only need to fertilize your jade plant when it's actively growing, supporting it with a boost of essential plant nutrients.

In September, fertilizing is no longer needed as roots aren't soaking up the nutrients so readily. In fact, chemical feeds can burn roots and oversaturate the soil during this time, resulting in discoloring foliage, leaf drop, and even death of the plant.

It can also encourage lots of new, tender growth that won't cope well with colder conditions in fall and winter, ultimately weakening your jade plant.

Instead, stock up on jade plant fertilizer from Amazon now to apply in early spring when your plant shows signs of new growth.

5. Propagate Your Jade Plant

I always like to propagate houseplants in September, as the lingering warm temperatures and longer daylight hours provide the perfect conditions to support rooting before fall.

You can propagate your jade plant by taking a cutting of a 3-4 inch stem with these gardening snips from Lowe's. Always cut just below a leaf node as this is where roots will emerge.

As with propagating other succulents, allow your jade plant cutting to form a callus before dipping it in rooting hormone powder (available at Walmart). You can then insert it in potting mix, keep it on a warm windowsill and watered to encourage rooting.

What to Shop

There are several challenges of caring for houseplants in fall and winter. If your jade plant starts dropping leaves over the coming weeks, for example, it could indicate a watering issue. You may also find you need to repot your jade plant if it has outgrown its current container. Fall is a good time to do this.

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My orchids have finished flowering for the year and spent summer pouring their energy into root and foliage growth before the next bloom cycle begins. To help them reliably rebloom in spring, and even encourage earlier blooming, there's always one thing I do in September: move my orchids somewhere cooler.

Moth orchids, or Phalaenopsis, are the most common indoor orchid to grow (take a look at The Sill's collection of moth orchids). Their flower buds typically open in spring but they first require cool nights in fall to trigger new flower spikes, replicating what happens in their natural tropical habitat. The problem is in the warm shelter of our homes orchids don't always experience this cold exposure, which can explain why you may have previously struggled to get an orchid to rebloom. By simply relocating your orchid to a cooler spot in the house in September you can encourage the growth of new flower spikes, resulting in blooms as early as late winter.

But, there a few warnings that come with this September orchid trick. You need to place your orchid in a spot with optimal cool temperatures and then know when to relocate it somewhere warmer again, otherwise you risk bud drop. Here, with the help of a houseplant expert, I talk through everything you need to know.

Why Move Orchids Somewhere Cooler?

In their native habitat of tropical and subtropical rainforests across Asia, New Guinea, and northern Australia, moth orchids experience a significant temperature change as summer turns to fall – it typically drops to 55-65°F at night for several weeks.

This signals to the plant to start growing a new flower spike for spring blooming.

'Since most orchids are kept indoors, the temperature change that comes with fall isn’t as noticeable. You’re giving it enough of a temperature change that it recognizes fall and starts preparing a flower spike,' explains Adrian Aviles, houseplant expert and owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop.

This is especially true if you have consistent heating on through fall and winter. It can result in delayed blooming or a lack of blooms in spring.

That's why placing your orchid in a cooler spot of the home this month can help replicate these natural conditions. Having a room thermometer (like this from Walmart) to hand can help you find the perfect location.

Where to Move Orchids

This September orchid trick for earlier reblooming requires a careful approach, as simply taking your orchid off a sunny windowsill and putting in the path of a draft could shock and cause stress, stunting growth altogether.

'I recommend moving the orchid to a room that naturally has a bigger difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures. A bright room that cools down a little in the evening is usually a good option,' Adrian suggests.

'I would avoid keeping them by the AC or heater. Direct hot or cold air isn’t beneficial. Try to find a room with a balance between light and a cooler evening temperature. I wouldn’t put it in a dark room just because it gets colder at night,' he continues.

While cooler temperatures will help trigger the growth of a new flower spike, it is important not to neglect your orchid's other needs. For example, bright light is still required to ensure essential processes like photosynthesis continue. Likewise, don't forget to increase humidity for these indoor plants, especially in the often drier air of fall. You can use this pebble humidity tray from Amazon, for example.

This 4-in-1 plant meter on Amazon can help monitor the temperature for your orchid. You're looking for a room that sits at 55-65°F at night. Near a bright east-facing windowsill can be a good spot, so long as there aren't icy drafts

You want to keep your orchid in this spot for several weeks until you spot a flower spike emerging from its base. At this point, you can reposition your orchid to a more stable, warm environment, where you should leave it to bloom. Avoid major temperature or light fluctuations at this point, which may hinder bud development or shock your plant and cause orchid flowers to fall off.

What to Shop

While orchid care is particular and there are some major mistakes to avoid, like watering orchids incorrectly, there are a handful of orchid myths that aren't true. This includes the belief you need to constantly mist orchids to boost humidity levels.

It's not the most effective method and won't make a huge difference, unlike simply placing your orchid in a bathroom with a steamy shower or using a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

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With summer coming to an end, it's time to turn our attention to fall houseplant care. Shorter days and cooler room temperatures call for reduced watering, relocating plants, and – crucially – no more fertilizing.

Arguably, it's the biggest September houseplant mistake you can make. Feeding plants when they're slowing down and entering a period of dormancy will only cause more harm. Chemical fertilizers in particular can burn roots, leading to foliage damage and the overall decline of your plant. Ultimately, fertilizing houseplants now can weaken and kill them off.

Having said that, it's important to note that every houseplant has its own set of needs and in some cases you can give houseplants one final feed in September before fall. Here, houseplant pros explain everything you need to know.

Why You Should Stop Fertilizing in September

Even though fertilizer is a key element of your houseplant care kit, it should only be used when houseplants are actively growing. This is because fertilizer (like this indoor plant feed from Walmart) contains essential plant nutrients that support plant growth. When a plant isn't actively growing, this can overload plant roots and damage the plant.

'When a plant’s growth slows, it cannot use nutrients as quickly. Continuing to fertilize at the same frequency can cause excess salts to build up in the soil. Over time, this may damage the roots and lead to brown leaf tips, yellowing leaves, or a white crust on the surface of the soil,' explains houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

As part of fall houseplant care, it's also important to help your houseplants adjust to the changing conditions. Many houseplants struggle with sudden changes in light and temperature, which can cause drooping, leaf drop, and the general decline in health. Fertilizer on top of this can cause shock, resulting in damage like discoloring foliage.

'Too much fertilizer can also encourage weak growth when the plant does not have enough natural light to support it. More fertilizer will not make up for a lack of light. It may actually place more stress on the plant,' Rosalin explains.

For this reason, it's best not to fertilize houseplants come September – though there are a few exceptions.

The One Exception

With different indoor plants having different needs and behaviours, there are occasions where you can do one last feed in September.

'I recommend watching the plant rather than relying only on the calendar. If it has stopped producing new leaves, the soil is drying much more slowly, or its overall growth has noticeably slowed, it is probably time to pause fertilizing until spring,' says Rosalin.

'Some tropical indoor plants, including pothos, philodendrons, monsteras, and spider plants, may continue producing new growth through fall if they are kept in a warm room with plenty of light. These plants may still benefit from occasional feeding, but I would reduce the frequency and use a balanced fertilizer at half strength,' she continues.

'Other plants are more likely to slow down significantly as the days get shorter. Alocasias and caladiums may begin entering dormancy, while naturally slow growers such as ZZ plants and snake plants will usually need little or no fertilizer once their growth pauses,' Rosalin adds.

The best thing to do is research your specific plant's growing needs, and observe for new growth. But, if you are unsure, the safest option is to put the fertilizer away until spring.

'The conditions inside the home still matter. Plants growing under a full spectrum LED light (like this grow light from Amazon) may remain active longer than plants relying only on limited fall and winter sunlight,' Rosalin adds.

When to Start Fertilizing Again

To know when to start fertilizing your houseplants again, look for signs of new growth in early spring.

'Regular fertilization is necessary during the period of active growth: spring and summer. You’ll need to gradually increase feeding throughout this period, starting with small doses to help your plant awaken and adjust to new conditions,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

If you have particularly fast-growing, low-maintenance houseplants (like monsteras, palms, and pothos), you might want to opt for a slow-release, granular fertilizer over a concentrated liquid feed. This slow-release houseplant feed from Amazon, for example, can be applied in early spring, providing a consistent supply of nutrients over multiple weeks.

What to Shop

Don't be fooled. Despite the garden settling down for fall, there's much to do in our indoor gardens. In particular, there are a few indoor plant jobs many people forget to do. This includes checking on the underside of leaves for common indoor plant pests and getting rid of them quickly to stop infestations taking over your entire houseplant collection.

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September is a good time to give your snake plant a little attention before the days get turn cooler. These easy-care houseplants are pretty forgiving, but their needs do change as they move out of the summer growing season.

The biggest thing to watch is watering. As light levels fall and growth slows, your snake plant won't need as much to drink, so it's important to let the soil dry out properly between waterings. It's also worth checking that your plant is still getting plenty of bright light and moving it away from any cold draughts as temperatures begin to drop.

There are just a few simple jobs to tackle now to care for a snake plant stay healthy through fall and winter. And if you're prone to giving your houseplants a little too much water, an inexpensive moisture meter from Walmart (which I swear by for all my plants at this time of year) can make knowing when to water much easier.

Start Cutting Back on the Watering

This is the biggest one. Your plant will need less water as light levels and growth decrease over winter.

Crucially, overwatering is the main risk to your houseplants as we head into fall and winter. Take it from someone who has been there and lot plants owing to my over-zealous watering habits.

Let the compost dry out completely before watering again, and don't be tempted to water simply because a certain number of days have passed.

If you're unsure whether the soil is dry enough, check a few inches below the surface rather than relying on how it looks from the top. Remember, snake plants are drought-tolerant, love the heat, and will cope far better with being left a little dry than with sitting in consistently damp compost.

Make sure it's in a pot with drainage holes. If you need to find it a new home, this green ceramic pot from Walmart is a beautiful option.

As I said above, a moisture meter is the best thing you can possibly get to make sure you're not watering a snake plant too much. We recommend the Rainpoint digital soil moisture meter from Amazon, as it looks smart and it also lets you monitor your plants remotely via the app.

Make Sure It’s Getting Enough Light

September is the point where declining daylight starts to matter for indoor plants.

As the days get shorter, check where your snake plant is sitting and make sure it’s still getting enough light. These plants are wonderfully tolerant of lower-light conditions, but brighter, indirect light will help support healthy growth as fall approaches.

If your plant is tucked away in a darker corner, consider moving it closer to a bright window in September. Just avoid placing it somewhere that gets intense direct sunlight for hours, particularly through glass, as this can scorch the leaves.

If your snake plant is in a particularly dark spot, a simple grow light (we love this one from Walmart as it would work for a small apartment) will give it the light it needs to keep it happy an healthy through the colder seasons. Plus, this light is easy to move and clip onto your pots, so your entire plant collection could benefit from it.

Stop Feeding Your Snake Plant

By September, it's time to start winding down your snake plant's feeding routine. As natural growth slows, the plant needs less nutrition, so there's little benefit in continuing to fertilize regularly.

If you've been feeding every few weeks during the growing season, give it a final feed now and then stop until growth picks up again in spring. We recommend using fertilizer that is specific to the plant, and the TPS snake plant feed from Amazon is just the ticket.

Over-fertilizing can lead to a build-up of salts in the soil and isn't going to encourage healthy new growth when the plant is naturally slowing down.

Protect It From Cooler Temperatures

Move your plant away from cold windows, doors and other draughty spots as temperatures fall.

Snake plants are tough, but they don't appreciate sudden drops in temperature. As you start opening windows less and switching the heating back on, check that your plant isn't sitting beside a draughty door, cold window or other chilly spot.

At the same time, avoid putting it directly beside a radiator. The blast of hot, dry air can cause stress and dry the plant out unevenly.

A good idea for moving a plant away from a cold floor or draft, and into more bright light is a plant stand. There are lots of beautiful options, many of which work well in small spaces. We particularly love this plant stand side table by Hearth & Hand with Magnolia, from Target.

Shop Your Snake Plant Care Kit

With just a few small changes to its routine, your snake plant should be well prepared for the months ahead.

Keep watering sparingly, give it plenty of light and protect it from extremes of temperature, and it should continue to look healthy.

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My Monstera deliciosa is my most prized houseplant, towering above others in my indoor garden. I follow meticulous care to keep its statement foliage looking glossy and healthy, and come September this calls for a gentle transition into fall.

If you also have a monstera in your home, you'll know sudden environmental changes (like temperature and moisture) can trigger some dramatic reactions, like drooping and yellowing foliage. To avoid this in late summer, it's important to adjust watering as your monstera's growth is slowing down, clean leaves to brighten them up, and possibly relocate your plant as daylight hours reduce.

You may even want to consider adding a humidifier to your houseplant care kit (like this portable humidifier from Walmart) as the air may become drier over the coming weeks, which these tropical plants dislike. Here, with the help of a houseplant expert, I talk through what to do with a monstera in September with five key tasks.

1. Clean Your Monstera's Foliage

I adore the huge fenestrated leaves of my monstera, but this also makes them one of the houseplants that captures dust quickly. Leaving this layer of dust on your monstera leaves can block pores, hinder photosynthesis, and make the foliage look dull.

'September is a good time to clean the leaves, especially after a summer of open windows, fans, or extra dust in the home,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

'I recommend gently wiping each leaf with a soft, damp cloth while supporting it from underneath. I also like to add a small amount of diluted neem oil (available at Walmart), which helps remove build-up and can help discourage common pests,' she adds.

Another way to clean houseplant leaves is with houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon). I like to use these because they're made of soft microfiber and wipe dust away in one swipe.

2. Reduce Watering

When it comes to watering houseplants, it's no secret a lot can go wrong. One of the biggest indoor plant mistakes is maintaining a consistent watering schedule year-round. Instead, you should adjust how often you water your plants with the seasons.

'As the days become shorter and temperatures begin to cool, the soil may take longer to dry. This usually means the monstera will need water less often than it did during summer,' says Rosalin.

'I suggest checking the soil before watering and waiting until the top two inches feel dry. The important thing is to follow the soil rather than continuing with the same summer schedule,' she advises.

I always use my Amazon soil moisture meter before watering any of my plants. The probe detects the moisture level and gives you an instant reading, so you know when it's time to pick up your watering can.

Overwatering in fall can result in houseplant root rot, turn monstera leaves yellow, and generally lead to the decline of your plant.

3. Stop Fertilizing

One of the biggest parts of fall houseplant care is putting down the fertilizer, at least as a general rule of thumb. As your monstera slows down in September, there's not necessarily a need to provide a boost of essential plant nutrients that encourage growth.

'If the monstera is still actively producing new leaves, it can continue receiving a light feeding in September. I prefer a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength (like this Miracle-Gro indoor plant fertilizer from Lowe's). However, if growth has started to slow, you can reduce the frequency or stop fertilizing until spring,' says Rosalin.

'There is no need to force new growth when the plant is naturally beginning to slow down,' she adds.

It can be a fertilizing mistake to feed your monstera during fall and winter, where the feed can burn roots, oversaturate the soil, and encourage weak growth that can't cope with the shorter and cooler days.

In the meantime, you can pick up a specific monstera fertilizer from Amazon, ready for spring.

4. Relocate Your Monstera Somewhere Brighter

In their native habitat of the tropical rainforests of Central and South America, monstera grow beneath tree canopies where they experience dappled light. This means they can tolerate lower light, but will grow best in bright, indirect light.

As daylight hours start to reduce in September, you monstera will benefit from moving to a brighter spot. This will ensure it can still perform essential processes like photosynthesis.

'A spot that provided enough light in summer may become too dim as the days get shorter. If the monstera begins leaning, stretching, or producing smaller leaves, I recommend moving it a little closer to a bright window,' says Rosalin.

'Make the change gradually and continue protecting the leaves from strong direct afternoon sun which can cause leaf scorch. If natural light is limited, a full spectrum LED grow light can help provide the extra light the plant needs during the shorter days. Rotating the plant every week or two will also help it grow more evenly,' she adds.

You can get a grow light with a timer (like this from Amazon) for more convenience, and as Rosalin notes, houseplant rotation will encourage a more symmetrical silhouette.

5. Remove Damaged Foliage

If your monstera experienced any damage over summer, such as scorched leaves, fungal leaf spot, or discolored foliage from incorrect watering, September is a good time to remove the leaves.

Damaged leaves won't recover and could be draining the plant's energy. With September conditions being milder, it's a good opportunity to use essential pruning tools (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon) to cut off the damaged foliage at the base of the plant.

Take care not to prune more than one third of the plant, as this can cause shock and result in more stress symptoms. Likewise, clean your tools afterwards to prevent the risk of pests and diseases spreading.

Removing this from the plant will also strengthen it and make it less susceptible to houseplant pest damage over fall and winter, when pest populations often surge.

What to Shop

September is a good time to get your indoor garden in shape for fall. If you need to train an overgrown monstera, pick up a moss pole (like this from Amazon) to give it a support. Likewise, our tips on layering houseplants can transform your plant corner into a botanical spectacle for the home.

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September marks the start of fall houseplant care. This means it's time to move plants to brighter spots as daylight hours diminish and to avoid overwatering to prevent root rot.

It can be a lot to juggle, so I'm always on the hunt for new additions for my houseplant care kit to make it easier – that's how I spotted this Amazon houseplant caddy. It essentially places your plants on wheels so you can move even the heaviest ones around with ease, ideal for the unpredictable lighting levels of fall. What intrigued me was that the caddy has a drainage saucer to catch excess water and stop houseplant soil from becoming oversaturated.

It tackles two problems in one, taking some of the guesswork out of fall houseplant care (and winter, too). It also has a much more sophisticated appearance than other cheap caddies on the market. 'This plant caddy feels sturdier than I expected. The reinforced resin base has a solid weight to it, and the hidden wheels glide smoothly even with a heavy pot on top,' one reviewer shares.

Why It's Perfect for Fall Houseplant Care

There are a few reasons why this Amazon houseplant caddy makes the perfect tool for houseplant care over fall and even winter.

First, its primary function is to make relocating houseplants easier. This is ideal for moving houseplants back indoors for winter, as well as moving ones in darker corners closer to windows as natural daylight depletes.

This is crucial to keep houseplants healthy in darker months, as they need sufficient light to continue photosynthesizing. In fact, the wheels on the caddy have 360° movement, so you can use houseplant rotation for more symmetrical, non-leggy growth.

The other thing this caddy helps with for fall and winter is watering houseplants correctly. As houseplants enter dormancy and slow down this season, they don't need so much water and their soil dries out much more slowly. It can be difficult to judge how often to water plants, often resulting in overwatering, which causes houseplant root rot, compacted soil, and pests and diseases.

This caddy has a drainage saucer to catch excess water and improve moisture management. This does require your plant to be in a pot with a drainage hole (this white ceramic pot from Wayfair pairs with it nicely). Even better, the caddy has grooves to elevate the plant pot above the ventilation holes, so there's good airflow to the plant roots.

Why Shoppers Love It

With a 4.8-star rating, I have confidence in the quality and function of this Amazon houseplant caddy.

'I've had quite a few plant caddies like this over the years, and this one has some of the smoothest wheels I've used. It rolls very easily, and the wheels turn without fighting me, which makes moving heavier plants around much easier,' one five-star reviewer writes.

'I've had other caddies where the wheels only want to go straight, so you end up having to lift the plant and reposition it every time you change directions. These actually swivel and move where I want them to go. I can push a plant across the floor, turn it around, and get it into position without having to wrestle with it,' they add.

As for the saucer, shoppers have found it to work well.

'It is leak-proof, so it will keep the water from draining out onto your floor from the plant after watering. The raised grooves help keep the water from the bottom of the pot,' one person writes.

'The hidden drainage drawer is another feature I really appreciate. It gives excess water somewhere to go without leaving a puddle on my floor, and it can be removed when it’s time to empty or clean it,' another reviewer adds.

The overall look of this houseplant caddy definitely makes it stand out above other plastic plant caddies on the market. The hidden drawer and wheels give it a sleek finish, and it has a very modern look that could effortlessly slot into any room.

'The wheels are hidden which is nice, as they make a nice accent for a potted plant and do not detract from the presentation,' a shopper agrees.

It's also perfect for heavy pots, holding up to 250lbs and measuring 12.5 inches in diameter, though a 12-inch plant caddy is also available on Amazon.

Perhaps the only thing to note is the price. While $20.99 for one caddy may be a little more expensive than some other plant caddies (like this $8 black plastic plant caddy from Walmart), customers feel the added features and sturdy resin material make it a worthwhile purchase.

'The durability is amazing. The wheels work wonderfully and smoothly. This is just what you need for your plants. And it’s at a great price too!' one shopper writes.

Shop Houseplant Essentials

While this houseplant caddy will help with proper watering and lighting over the coming months, there are several other indoor plant mistakes to watch out for. This includes not checking for pests regularly and continuing to fertilize plants in fall and winter.

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Nature's own fireworks, crotons shine bright with their striking multi-colored, paddle-shaped leaves. Dazzling in vivid shades of crimson, green, ochre and pink, these tropical rainforest natives of south-east Asia pep up bright and sunlit interiors with their bold patterning and glossy foliage.

One of the showiest and best indoor plants you can grow, crotons - botanically known as Codiaeum variegatum - reward endlessly for very little attention. Requiring stable, warm and humid conditions, these indoor plants can grow to between three and six feet tall, but are governed by the size of their container.

With many intriguing variations to consider, you can find croton cultivars with narrow, broad, oak-shaped and even curly corkscrew leaves. Take a look at Croton 'Mammy' available at Walmart. A great way to kick-start any houseplant collection, they also inspire the perfect interior decorating palette this fall.

Why You Will Fall For Crotons

There are many reasons to grow crotons, but visual impact and flamboyant foliage featuring dramatic color combinations place them at the top of most plant lovers' wish lists. Bearing patches of crimson, burgundy, green, ochre and pink, they are quick to charm new and dedicated plant parents alike.

Like many of the best air-cleaning indoor plants, crotons can also filter out harmful airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene and xylene, which occur in many household materials. They help maintain air quality and moisture levels through transpiration and are a stunning, positive addition to any room.

How To Care For Crotons

Originating from Southeast Asia's tropical rainforests, crotons love a constantly bright, warm, and humid environment. They can suffer from stress and sudden leaf drop if conditions vary, but thankfully they are not one of the hardest houseplants to keep alive. Follow these simple requirements they need to thrive:

• Light: Crotons love high light levels and need them to produce their vivid foliage. 'A bright spot - so it casts a medium to strong shadow most of the day - is key,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'I think it really is the most important thing to keep in mind when growing a croton because the more light it gets, the more a croton will generally be able to tolerate other stressors.'
• Humidity & Temperature: As you would expect of a rainforest native, crotons like humid conditions. 'Average to above-average relative humidity levels are ideal - if you can keep humidity above 40/45 percent or so, you should be good,' Justin notes. 'Croton does like warm temperatures - keeping it over 65 degrees (F) or so is optimal.'
• Fertilizer: Feed with a liquid fertilizer every four to six weeks during the active growing period of late spring to early fall. Try this kelp-infused liquid feed from Amazon.
• Watering: Crotons are not the thirstiest of indoor plants, which helps to keep care simple. 'I generally water when the top 25 to 33 percent or so of the potting mix dries to the touch,' says Justin. 'If in doubt, keep your croton on the dry side rather than too wet.' This water level pot indicator from Walmart can help.
• Stability: 'Try to avoid any big changes to a croton's environment,' says Justin. 'In nature, crotons are rooted into the ground and don’t move from place to place, so moving from a bright sunroom to a dim dining room, for example, can stress it out, causing leaf loss.'

Enhance Your Decor With Crotons

One of the simplest ways to style houseplants and boost a croton's impact comes through the choice of pot.

'I’m a big fan of blue pots because blue creates a stunning contrast to the red/orange/yellow variegation in the foliage,' says Justin. 'But if a more coordinated, harmonious look suits you, you might go for a bright yellow or orange pot, for example, to echo and hype up the color the plant already has.'

He also adds: 'The same goes for the backdrop; you’ll find your croton may have a totally different (but equally beautiful) look up against a soft blue wall as an orange one.'

Mixing these houseplants for maximalists with other indoor plants with contrasting, dark green foliage makes for an eye-catching focal point. Consider grouping monstera, peace lily, Bird of Paradise and pothos with crotons and arrange on a tiered plant stand - such as this gold design from Lowe's or along a mantelpiece.

Thanks to their large, technicolor leaves, crotons are perfect for filtering sunlight. 'I’m a big fan of backlighting crotons - placing the plant where it’s in between me and the light source,' explains Justin. 'The way the light can come through the leaves is almost like a stained-glass window. So crotons are perfect for large windowsills or plant stands in front of a window. Plus, they love the light.'

It's well worth knowing how to clean houseplant leaves to keep crotons bright and healthy. As Justin explains: 'Any dust that accumulates on the leaf both decreases the plant’s appearance and decreases the amount of light it’s getting (dust acts like a filter), as well as provides habitat for pests.

'So it’s a good idea to regularly clean your croton’s leaves with a soft cloth. Cotton or microfiber should be just fine.' Try Lowe's microfibre cloths.

What to Shop

No doubt you are now smitten with crotons. Why not discover our favorite houseplants to make your home feel cozy for fall, plus learn about 7 of the best houseplants with dark foliage to make your croton foliage shine even brighter?

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With fall just around the corner, it's time to start adjusting your houseplant care to help your beloved plants transition smoothly into the cooler months. One essential I always dust off in September is my grow light.

Grow lights for houseplants supplement light levels where it's hard to provide sufficient natural light, like in fall. And yes, they really do work. I always recommend one with a timer, like this Amazon wooden grow light, because it's convenient and ensures your plants get the hours of exposure they need. This one in particular is a good choice because it also has full-spectrum light and it's adjustable – plus, I love that it has a walnut finish so you don't have to compromise on aesthetics in your living room.

During the gloomy days of fall, it ultimately helps plants photosynthesize and stops them from drooping, so they can make it through the season happily. 'The full-spectrum LEDs do seem to help my plants look healthier compared to normal room light,' one reviewer writes. So before daylight hours drop any further, now is a great time to add a grow light to your houseplant care kit.

Why Use a Grow Light in Fall?

When it comes to fall houseplant care, grow lights really are a staple. While fall ushers in dormancy for many of the best indoor plants, they still need plenty of light to perform essential plant processes, like photosynthesis. When daylight is limited, especially indoors, grow lights step in to offer a boost.

Grow lights usually use LEDs with a full spectrum to closely replicate natural sunlight. By placing plants underneath one for several hours (typically 4-6 hours a day is sufficient), they can soak up as much light as they need to stay alive.

The best part is many grow lights have a timer, so you don't have to worry about manually turning it on and off.

Plus, with so many beautiful grow lights on the market (this bamboo grow light from Walmart is perfect for small tabletop plants), it doesn't have to look like a scientific eyesore. Instead, it can make a striking botanical focal point for your home.

Why Shoppers Love It

The Amazon wooden grow light has a 4.3-star rating with thousands of reviews from happy customers who call it 'aesthetic and practical'.

'These lights look very aesthetically pleasing when compared to many grow lights. It doesn’t scream industrial grow tent or anything like that. It makes kind of a pretty halo above my plants,' one five-star reviewer writes.

As for its function, shoppers are pleased with the results.

'The light provides a full spectrum, including blue and red wavelengths, which is crucial for promoting healthy plant growth,' one person describes. 'My plants seem to appreciate it as they’ve shown more growth since using it.'

'My [peace lily] sits near a window, so one side of it wasn’t growing, even when I rotated it. This works great to provide enough light all around,' another person notes.

That's another bonus: you don't necessarily have to practice houseplant rotation for symmetrical growth when using an overhead grow light like this.

One of the biggest perks of the Amazon wooden grow light is the fact it has an adjustable height, from 13.7-16.1", so you can use it for different houseplants – by purchasing the set of two grow lights from Amazon, you can support multiple plants at one time.

'The set-up was easy. Love that it’s lightweight, height-adjustable, and has an automatic timer for hands-off use,' one happy shopper shares.

Perhaps the one downside to note is that the grow light isn't of exceptional quality that will last forever. 'It lasted about two years,' one person describes.

However, there is a one-year warranty on this grow light, and there's no doubt it will get you through the incoming fall and winter season at the very least – for the current deal of just $15.98, it's a good piece of kit to get for reassurance that your precious plants will stay healthy over the coming months.

What to Shop

There are lots of problems houseplants can face in the fall and winter seasons, including houseplant soil not absorbing water. You can resolve this by repotting it, aerating the soil, and improving your watering regimen.

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As we transition into fall, something very exciting happens to our Christmas cactus plants – little flower buds start to appear, gearing up for a spectacular festive display later on. But this also marks a super fragile period for these favorite houseplants. Make the wrong move now, and you could lose all of the buds and sabotage the display.

The truth is, Christmas cactus care is quite particular. Not only do you need to keep your Christmas cactus in the dark in the lead-up to its flowering season, but once you spot those flower buds, it's crucial not to move your plant. Sudden changes in light and temperature can cause the buds to drop off, leaving you with no blooms this holiday season.

It may sound simple, but there are actually quite a few factors to juggle once those buds appear. With the help of houseplant experts, I talk through the one mistake to avoid when you spot buds on your Christmas cactus and what to do instead this fall (hint: you might want to pick up this glass plant mister from Amazon if it isn't already in your houseplant care kit).

Why You Shouldn't Move Your Christmas Cactus in Fall

Christmas cacti produce flower buds between mid- to late fall, triggered by cool nights and a period of darkness. Once those buds appear at the end of the long segmented stems, it's important not to change your plant's environment too drastically.

'Moving the plant changes the angle of light hitting it, as well as the temperature and humidity the plant was previously used to,' says Nikki Norris of Root & Reach Botanicals.

'This plant's bud count is reliant on the conditions the plant is in as the buds are forming. Moving it stresses the plant out,' she adds.

Ultimately, it's a Christmas cactus mistake to change the environment suddenly. Along with bud drop, you may notice your Christmas cactus wilt, droop, or discolor.

'This is the plant signalling stress. When the Christmas cactus is stressed, it triggers ethylene production and the plant starts to form an abscission layer at the base of the buds, causing them to start dropping.'

'Moving the plant from a breezy windowsill to a warm mantel, for example, will cause the buds to start dropping within a few days. Turning the pot on that same breezy windowsill just a half turn, even when the buds are just pea-sized, can cause the buds to drop because the buds orient to the light as well as the environment they are formed in,' Nikki explains.

'The plant will redirect its energy toward adapting to new conditions rather than blooming,' adds Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

Instead, once you spot Christmas cactus buds, you should focus on providing the best fall care.

Fall Care Tips for Christmas Cactus

During fall, our Christmas cactus plants start to wake up and get ready for winter blooming. To ensure you get that much-anticipated display, the experts say there are a few environmental conditions to maintain:

• Light: After 6-8 weeks of 12-hour daily darkness to trigger flowering in early fall, gradually acclimate your Christmas cactus to bright, indirect light. This will help the flower buds swell and eventually open. 'Place the pot on an east- or west-facing windowsill. If it's located next to a south-facing window, shield the plant from direct sunlight in the afternoon,' advises Marina. If needed, you can use this Amazon grow light for some extra exposure or use these Wayfair sheer curtains to diffuse direct sun.
• Temperature: To encourage blooming, provide your Christmas cactus with cooler nights. 'Your Christmas cactus needs lower temperatures (around 55–65°F) from September to November to ensure abundant blooming,' says Marina. But, you should avoid sudden temperature fluctuations and drafts, which can cause bud drop. This Walmart room thermometer can help you monitor this.
• Humidity: Another way to help your Christmas cactus retain its buds is by increasing humidity for these indoor plants, especially as indoor heating significantly dries the air in fall. 'You can boost humidity by placing a pebble tray (like this from Amazon) filled with water near the pot or use a room humidifier,' suggests Marina.
• Fertilizing: Once fall comes along, you can stop fertilizing your Christmas cactus. 'Pause feeding throughout fall and the blooming period to allow the plant to focus its energy on flower buds,' Marina says. Continuing to feed your plant will encourage growth over blooming.
• Watering: Don't forget a Christmas cactus is a succulent and stores water in its fleshy stems. However, Marina notes you should 'keep the soil consistently moist once buds appear.' You can use this Amazon soil moisture meter to check its potting mix regularly and add some water when the top inch or so of soil has dried out.

What to Shop

As well as finding the optimal spot for your Christmas cactus to bloom, you can place a Christmas cactus in the best spot for Feng Shui, where it is thought to bring good luck this holiday season. And if you're struggling to get your Christmas cactus to bloom, it might be that you need to adjust its growing environment – luckily, there's plenty of time to do this now before the holidays.

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Houseplants play an important part in interior design schemes. Much like artwork and books, a well-chosen plant or indoor tree can elevate a room – and quite literally add life.

What plant to place where requires thought. Obviously, different species and sizes of plants evoke different moods – and most importantly thrive in different conditions.

One plant that has attracted attention recently is the beautiful indoor olive tree grown in pots. Whether you're after a Mediterranean aesthetic, prefer a chic minimalist approach or something more traditional, this sculptural beauty, with its silvery-green foliage, will give a room a sense of grandeur.

Discover from experts how to choose the best spot, size and scale for an indoor Olea europea, like this Koroneiki Greek Olive Tree from Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees) and how to style it for maximum impact.

1. Why Opt For An Olive Tree?

A staple in sun-loving Mediterranean gardens, olive trees (Olea europaea) are having a moment in interior design schemes, bringing their old world charm to our homes.

'There’s something inherently romantic about an olive tree — it evokes an old vineyard, the French countryside, places that feel timeless and connected to the landscape,' says Marina Hanisch, founder, Marina Hanisch Interiors.

'It’s a quiet gesture, but one that gives a room a sense of history and soul, as though it has always belonged there.'

Marina also likes the way an indoor olive tree allows the outdoors to speak to the interior. 'It's the idea of nature meeting architecture,' she says. 'It can become a statement in the center of a space or read almost as a sculpture in the corner, bringing height, movement and dimension without feeling overly green or leafy.'

This Maurino olive tree from Trees.com can be grown indoors in a pot or outside.

Interior designer, Marie Flanigan, founder, Marie Flanigan Interiors loves the way an olive tree brings an immediate sense of life, warmth, and natural beauty to an interior.