My blue hydrangea is the jewel in the crown of my patio planting. Its bright flowers always capture the attention of my guests and give me a hit of dopamine whenever I go out there. But, it's well-known that it can be tricky to keep a hydrangea blue, which is why I've adopted some specific tricks to make it easier.

Growing hydrangeas successfully is already fairly particular, let alone trying to keep them blue. The color of hydrangeas is all to do with soil pH level, with acidic soil bringing out the natural blue pigment. As soon as soil pH level becomes more neutral and alkaline, these hydrangeas can turn pink. By planting mine in the right place, using an acidic soil, and applying a special amendment, I manage to keep mine a vivid blue quite easily.

So, if you've also just added one of these beauties to your yard, keep reading. Below, I share my top three tips to maintain that unique sky-blue hue all summer long.

1. Grow It In a Container

The soil type in my yard is a bit of a mixed bag, with some areas being sandy and some patches of clay. So, when it came to planting up my blue hydrangea, I wasn't going to take any risks and opted for container growing.

Adding a blue hydrangea to your container garden makes it much easier to control its growing environment. You know exactly the type of soil in the pot and can easily amend it to maintain acidity.

The thing to note about growing hydrangeas in pots is the size, with the most common types of blue hydrangea (bigleaf and mountain varieties, like this 'Nikko Blue' hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees) typically reaching an ultimate size of 2-3ft in height and spread in pots.

This Endless Summer Blue Hydrangea from Amazon is another good choice for pots.

Hydrangeas also love consistent moisture (you may spot your hydrangea wilting otherwise), but hate soggy conditions. That's why a pot with a drainage hole is a must.

This large ceramic planter from Wayfair is a great choice, with the navy color complementing the blue flowers beautifully.

2. Use Acidic Compost

Soil is the most important thing when it comes to trying to keep a hydrangea blue. More specifically, the pH level of soil.

As mentioned, it's acidic soil that brings out the blue pigment in these hydrangeas. Pink hydrangeas, on the other hand, prefer an alkaline growing medium.

Somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 is the sweet spot for blue hydrangeas. I needed, you can test the pH of your soil with this Amazon soil test kit to find out more about pH levels and nutrients.

Instead of using any potting mix for my blue hydrangea, I chose an acidic potting soil (like this acid-loving plant soil from Lowe's). This is a blend specially made for acid-loving plants, including azaleas and blue hydrangeas.

The acidic nature of this soil maintains a growing environment for the chemical reaction to happen that brings out the blue blooms.

Of course, you can also use methods to make your soil more acidic, though this is a more laborious option.

This 4-in-1 soil meter from Amazon can give you an instant reading of your soil's pH, moisture, temperature, and sunlight level, so you can monitor it.

3. Apply Aluminium Sulfate

Over time, soil pH can change due to weathering and other environmental factors. That's why I use a aluminium sulfate soil amendment to top up acidity for my blue hydrangea.

Aluminium sulfate (like this from Amazon) is the secret ingredient to maintaining blue blooms because it helps lower the pH of the soil.

When the hydrangea's roots take up the aluminium, it binds with pigments called anthocyanins in the flower tissues, resulting in the blue coloration.

You should apply it in early spring, just before new growth emerges.

Mix it with water, as per the manufacturer's instructions on the product you have. Apply it around the drip line of the shrub, avoiding the foliage which can cause leaf scorch. You should then water thoroughly to help the plant soak it up and stop its roots burning.

Reapply once a month during the growing season until you achieve the desired shade of blue.

You can also use a hydrangea fertilizer (like this from Amazon) for a boost of essential plant nutrients in spring, though you should wait a couple of weeks after the aluminium sulfate is applied to ensure the root aren't overloaded.

Shop Hydrangea Essentials

FAQs

Can All Hydrangeas Turn Blue?

No, not all types of hydrangeas can turn blue. Most commonly, it's bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas that react to chemical changes in soil for the blue pigment to appear. White varieties tend to stay white, however, while pink blooms can turn blue with more acidic soil.

Hydrangeas can seem daunting at first, as there are plenty of hydrangea mistakes to avoid. But, there are also some hydrangea myths you should read up on to ensure you don't overcomplicate care.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Doing the wrong thing to your hydrangea in April can undo an entire summer of flowers. As the plant wakes from dormancy and fresh green growth begins to push through, this is the moment many gardeners instinctively prune. But with hydrangeas, what you do in April will directly determine whether you get a full, generous display of blooms or a sparse, disappointing shrub later in the season.

The key lies in understanding that not all hydrangeas behave the same way. Some bloom on last year’s wood, others on new growth, and in April, that difference becomes critical. Get it wrong now, and you risk cutting off the season’s flowers before they’ve even formed. Here's what to do with hydrangeas in April.

1. Identify What Type of Hydrangea You Have

Before you touch a single stem, it is essential to know exactly what you are working with. As Drew Swainston, Gardener and Garden Writer at Homes & Gardens, explains: ‘Hydrangea pruning is entirely dependent on whether the plant flowers on old or new wood – get this wrong, and you can lose an entire season of blooms.’

Mophead, lacecap, and oakleaf hydrangeas generally flower on old wood, meaning their buds are already set on last year’s stems. Panicle and smooth hydrangeas, on the other hand, produce flowers on fresh, new growth each year.

This single distinction determines everything that follows. If you are unsure, it is always safer to assume your plant flowers on old wood and prune lightly, if at all.

2. Remove Old Flower Heads Carefully

If dried flower heads are still clinging to the plant from winter, April is your final opportunity to deadhead hydrangeas – but it should be done with real restraint. Cut just above a strong pair of healthy buds, taking care not to remove any of the surrounding new growth that may already be forming beneath.

This is not a reshaping exercise. It is simply about clearing last season’s remains while protecting the buds that are already preparing for summer’s display.

Use sharp, clean pruning shears – such as these Fiskars bypass pruning shears available on Amazon – to make precise cuts back to a strong pair of buds, ensuring clean wounds that support healthy regrowth.

3. Cut Out Only Dead or Damaged Stems

Once spent blooms have been removed, focus on any growth that is clearly dead or no longer viable. Frost-damaged tips, brittle brown stems, and weak, congested growth in the centre of the plant can all be cut away.

The emphasis here should be on precision, not enthusiasm. Every cut should improve airflow and overall plant health without changing the natural shape or structure of the shrub.

4. Feed and Mulch to Support New Growth

With pruning kept to a minimum, April becomes a month for nourishment and steady support. It is also the ideal time to fertilize hydrangeas, using a balanced feed designed for flowering shrubs to encourage strong bud development and healthy growth. This Hydrangea Fertilizer Liquid is a best-selling option on Amazon.

A layer of mulch around the base will further help to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature as growth accelerates. This quiet, consistent care often has a greater impact on summer flowering than pruning ever will.

5. Only Prune Hard If Your Hydrangea Blooms on New Wood

If you have panicle hydrangeas or smooth hydrangeas such as ‘Annabelle’, April is the exception to the rule when it comes to when to prune hydrangeas. These varieties respond well to a more confident cut back, which encourages strong new stems capable of supporting large, heavy flower heads later in the season.

Even so, the aim is controlled structure rather than aggressive reduction, shaping the plant to improve strength and flowering performance without overworking it.

You can purchase an ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea as a starter plant from Nature Hills – one of my favorite hydrangeas for its generous, oversized blooms and reliable response to a harder spring prune.

What Not to Do in April

The most important rule for hydrangea care this month is simple: avoid heavy pruning unless you are completely certain your plant will tolerate it. Cutting back mophead, lacecap, or oakleaf hydrangeas in April can easily remove the buds already set for this summer’s flowers, leaving you with foliage but no blooms.

Shop Hydrangea April Care Essentials

If there is one principle to carry through April, it is this: restraint is what guarantees results. Doing less to your hydrangea now will almost always mean more flowers in summer.

Handled correctly, this is a month of subtle intervention rather than dramatic change – a light tidy, careful feeding, and the discipline to leave healthy growth undisturbed. In return, hydrangeas reward you with their signature midsummer abundance: full, cloud-like blooms that feel effortless, even if the patience required to achieve them is anything but.

Hydrangeas are one of those shrubs we all love to have in our gardens but also slightly fear. It's no secret they have particular care (especially around pruning) and making the slightest of errors can sabotage their display. March in particular brings a set of challenges with these showy shrubs, as there's much to get done for a productive season ahead.

If you've been growing hydrangeas for some time, you'll know that spring is when they start to tease with new growth. In March, you need to do some essential pruning (but only for some types), increase watering, look for pests, and check soil health. Failing to do any of the above could result in less-than-impressive blooms, weaker plants, and problems that escalate beyond repair.

But, these tasks all need to be approached carefully and with the right method, which is why I've called on help of gardening experts. Here, they talk through what to do with hydrangeas in March with five key tasks.

What To Do with Hydrangeas in March

If you've only added hydrangeas to your yard recently, it might be helpful to read our guide on hydrangea myths debunked. This will help you get care right not only in March, but year-round.

1. Prune New Wood Hydrangeas

Hydrangea pruning is arguably the most confusing aspect of care for these shrubs, largely because when to do it differs greatly between different hydrangea varieties.

'Any hydrangeas that bloom on old growth should not be pruned in fall, winter, or early spring as that will eliminate the buds that will form flowers the following year,' explains landscape designer and gardening expert Caroline Ervin.

This would be a big pruning mistake to make, sabotaging flowers for oakleaf, mountain, bigleaf, and other old wood hydrangeas.

However, you can prune hydrangeas that bloom on new wood in very early spring. This includes smooth and panicle hydrangeas, like the much-adored 'Annabelle' hydrangea (you can purchase a starter plant from Nature Hills).

Pruning these hydrangeas now will give the shrubs a boost of energy, encouraging strong new, upright growth and larger flowers.

Use sharp, clean pruning shears (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon) to cut stems back to a strong pair of buds.

'You should also remove any dead or broken branches on all hydrangeas before spring growth,' says Caroline.

2. Apply Organic Fertilizer

Early spring is a great time to prepare hydrangeas for active growth with organic fertilizers, providing a boost of essential plant nutrients.

'Hydrangeas benefit from fertilization as the leaves just begin to emerge,' says Caroline.

'An organic, slow-release fertilizer will help the plants increase their bloom size and quantity, such as ones with 15-10-10 or 10-5-5 NPK plant fertilizer numbers (you can even use this rose feed from Amazon).

'A balanced organic fertilizer is fine, too, which will promote healthy growth of the plant but will not necessarily help increase the blooms,' Caroline explains.

You can also put down a layer of homemade compost and mulch to provide nutrients and aid moisture management for these thirsty shrubs.

'A light 2-3” layer of organic mulch like shredded bark, pine straw (from Amazon), compost, or leaf mold will help hydrangeas retain moisture,' Caroline says.

3. Gradually Increase Watering

Watering hydrangeas can be easy to get wrong.

These are moisture-loving shrubs that don't want to dry out. At the same time, too much water will cause root rot and the decline of the plant's health.

When March comes around, your hydrangeas are starting to wake up and require more watering to support the growth spurt they're about to put on.

'Begin watering hydrangeas in early spring when the leaves begin to emerge to make sure the plant has ample moisture to grow,' Caroline describes.

'Watering is important to encourage root growth, especially for newly planted hydrangeas. They typically need about 1” of water weekly through the growing season,' she adds.

Of course, it's important to note that environmental conditions will determine how often you need to water hydrangeas. If you're experiencing a particularly warm spring, for example. the soil will dry out more quickly.

That's why I always use my soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to check my hydrangea's soil and identify when it's time to give it a top up.

4. Monitor for Pests

Spring garden pests are getting ready to come out by the time March rolls around. The best way to get on top of pest problems is identifying them early.

'In March, monitor hydrangea plants for pests such as aphids, spider mites, scale, and beetles which can all cause leaf damage and loss of sap,' Caroline advises.

'Also in early spring, some common hydrangea diseases may spring up, often triggered by cool, wet conditions.

'This includes powdery mildew, leaf spot, and Botrytis blight. Manage these issues with pruning to increase air circulation of the interior of the plant and avoiding overhead watering,' she advises.

There are plenty of natural pest control methods you can use to safeguard your hydrangeas, too, including placing marigolds (starter plants from Walmart) nearby as trap plants and deterrents.

5. Check Soil Health

To set your hydrangea up for a successful growing season, it's best to assess the soil health now and make any necessary amendments.

You can use a soil test kit (like this one from Amazon) to get an insight into available nutrients and pH level (remember, hydrangeas like lightly acidic to neutral soil types).

You can then improve your soil accordingly, for example with this pH down fertilizer from Amazon.

This is also a good time to check the structure of your soil. You don't want it to be compacted or waterlogged, which can cause drainage issues and rot your hydrangeas.

'Adding a layer of compost around the base of the plant helps maintain and improve soil structure,' says Siobhan Shaw, sustainable gardening expert.

'It'll provide gentle nourishment for strong growth and better blooms later in the season,' she adds.

FAQs

Can I Take Hydrangea Cuttings in March?

It is possible to take hydrangea cuttings in March, but these will be hardwood cuttings while pruning in early spring. There is another opportunity to propagate hydrangeas in early summer, where you can take softwood cuttings. The latter is usually preferred because softwood roots more easily and quickly.

If you're thinking about adding more hydrangeas to your yard this spring, read up on places you should never plant hydrangeas.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Shop Hydrangea Growing Essentials

Hydrangeas can be challenging to propagate if you don't have the right elements in place: plenty of bright light, lots of warmth, humidity, and consistent moisture. But, what if I told you a potato can help provide ideal conditions to root hydrangea cuttings?

This hack consists of propagating hydrangeas by literally sticking cuttings in a potato. It might sound bizarre (and it definitely looks it), but it actually works. Just like growing rose cuttings in potatoes, this vegetable can act as a supportive growing medium, full of plant nutrients and moisture to encourage rooting. It's a clever trick to stop cuttings drying out in particular, the number one reason hydrangea cuttings fail to root.

The good news is that there are only a handful of steps to follow when growing hydrangea cuttings in a potato – so you can multiply these garden staples in no time. However, you should be aware that the potato alone won't magically root hydrangea cuttings; some other key factors work alongside it to make this propagation method a success. Here's all you need to know.

How to Grow Hydrangea Cuttings in a Potato

If you have tried and failed at multiplying these cottage garden shrubs, then it might be that the potato hack helps you out.

It works best with softwood or semi-ripe cuttings, taken in late spring and early summer, which are much easier (and quicker) to root than hardwood cuttings (taken in fall and winter).

For this hack, you will need:

• Medium-sized potatoes, like these from Walmart
• Pruning shears (these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon are a good choice for hydrangeas)
• Rooting hormone, like this rooting hormone powder from Amazon
• A pot filled with well-draining potting mix

How to Grow Hydrangea Cuttings in a Potato

1. The first thing to do to grow hydrangea cuttings in a potato is take healthy stem cuttings. Your hydrangea cuttings should be taken from a non-flowering stem with new growth, i.e. a softwood or semi-ripe stem. Use essential pruning tools to make clean cuts, ensuring each cutting is 4-6" long. Our article on plant cuttings mistakes has more information on what to avoid at this stage.
2. Next, prepare your cuttings. Just like propagating in soil or water, it's best to remove the lowest leaves of your hydrangea cuttings, as these will inevitably rot and make growth less productive. To help rooting, dip the bottom of the cuttings in a rooting hormone, applying an even layer.
3. You can then insert the bottom of your hydrangea cuttings into your potato. Use one potato per cutting. It's best to use a potato that is firm and healthy, rather than soft and squishy. You may need to poke a hole in the potato beforehand, using cutlery or a pencil, to prevent the bottom of the cutting becoming damaged.
4. Then, plant the potato in a pot with well-draining potting mix (like this from Amazon). You should bury the potato entirely, leaving just the stem sticking upright out the top.
5. Water your cuttings well and keep them somewhere bright and warm. You can increase humidity by placing a humidity dome (from Amazon) or a plastic bottle over the top of the cuttings. Just take care to provide ventilation to prevent a build-up of excess moisture, which may cause the bottom of your cuttings to rot.

After a few weeks, your hydrangea cuttings should have roots. You can then plant them out when they have new leaf growth and a robust root system, with the potato decomposing over time.

How Well Does this Hack Work?

There's no denying that if you grow hydrangea cuttings in a potato, you will see results. But, it's important to note it isn't because of the potato alone. The addition of potting mix and rooting hormone is essential for growth.

Because it's moisture-retentive, it's true that the potato keeps cuttings consistently moist and stops them drying out from air exposure. But, you will need to continue watering the cutting as the soil dries out (you can check this using a soil moisture meter, like this one from Amazon).

Likewise, the potato is a source of essential plant nutrients like potassium, phosphorus, calcium, magnesium, and nitrogen. Though, it should be noted these are only available in small volumes to cuttings.

These qualities alongside essential bright light, warmth, and humidity make hydrangea propagation a success.

You can even take it a step further and boost the growing environment with a grow light (like this from Amazon) and a seedling heat mat (from Walmart).

So, yes, this hack does work and stops the biggest problem of cuttings drying out, but it won't work if other fundamental elements aren't in place.

In this sense, it's not a replacement for other propagation methods, but rather a support tool to use when rooting hydrangea cuttings in soil.

FAQs

When is the Best Time to Propagate Hydrangeas from Cuttings?

You can either take hardwood or softwood cuttings to propagate hydrangeas. The former should be taken in late fall or early winter, when the hydrangea is dormant. The latter should be taken in late spring or early summer, though you shouldn't take cuttings from flowering stems. Hardwood cuttings require less humidity to root and tend to take longer, while softwood cuttings are generally thought to be easier and quicker to root.

While your hydrangea cuttings are rooting and developing, you should familiarize yourself with hydrangea myths so you don't fall for any misconceptions that hinder your care and their performance.

Hydrangea Growing Essentials

Hydrangeas come with an element of mystery, and it can be confusing, especially for those new to the shrubs. The truth is that not all hydrangeas are treated the same, and their seasonal care varies type to type. So, if you find yourself lost and need a bit of help, here is what to do with hydrangeas in February to keep them in top shape.

Many of the intricacies of growing hydrangeas stem from whether they flower on old or new wood. In late winter, whether your one blooms on old or new growth dictates if you should or shouldn’t prune, how you would do any trimming, and whether the shrub has flower buds that need protecting.

If you look out and wonder what to do with hydrangeas in February in your garden, we’ve got you covered. To help you care for your shrubs properly and avoid mistakes that may rob you of blooms, here we reveal six important tasks to consider. Some are relevant to all types of hydrangeas, others are more specific, and we’ll reveal the dos and don'ts for each.

Mulch Your Shrubs

If you didn’t mulch your hydrangeas in the fall, February is a good time to apply a layer around the base of your shrubs. Mulching hydrangeas is a great way to regulate soil temperatures and protect the shrub’s shallow roots from any late frosts.

Mulch acts as an insulation against winter frosts and also prevents repeated freezing and thawing, which can cause frost heave. This can be especially a risk with newly-planted hydrangeas.

Mulching also helps the soil retain moisture and smothers weeds that may otherwise appear when temperatures start to rise. As hydrangeas like consistently moist soil throughout the season, mulching now helps guarantee thriving shrubs and better blooms come summer.

The best types of mulch to use for this are organic matter, such as compost, leaf mold, wood chips, or pine bark. Any of these does all the vital jobs outlined above, plus it adds essential nutrients as it breaks down. Don’t worry about pine needles turning the soil more acidic when used as a mulch; this is a myth that has been debunked in recent years.

Apply a layer 2-4 inches thick around the base of the hydrangea, but not touching the stems (this is a mulching mistake that can lead to rot).

Protect Buds From Late Frosts

Different types of hydrangeas bloom on old wood and new wood. Old wood bloomers produce their buds on existing stems in late summer and early fall, which puts them in a perilous position throughout winter. These delicate buds need protecting against the worst of the winter weather.

The old flower heads can often insulate buds, but sometimes they may need further help. If you have deadheaded your hydrangea prior, then you do need to protect the delicate buds or risk losing a year’s worth of flowers.

Bigleaf (including mophead and lacecap), mountain, and oakleaf hydrangeas all bloom on old wood. Often, they can withstand winter unscathed, but in late winter, they can fall victim to a false spring. They can wake up during a spell of warmer days, only to be blasted by a late frost when temperatures drop back to normal.

In February, you may need to protect the hydrangea buds when temperatures are predicted to drop below freezing. A little bit of action can save your blooms.

Wrap the buds in burlap (you can get a burlap roll at Amazon), frost cloth, or even an old sheet to insulate them on cold nights. If you have a hydrangea in a pot, move it indoors or to a protected spot overnight.

In the coldest climates, you may need to remove snow from your hydrangeas in February.

The shrubs are at risk of snapping under the weight of snow, so gently brush the snow off with your arms. Always adopt a gentle approach, rather than shaking branches to remove snow, which risks snapping them.

Prune New Wood Hydrangeas

Knowing when to prune hydrangeas comes down to whether they bloom on old or new wood. If you have a panicle or smooth (sometimes known as arborescens) hydrangea, they flower on new wood.

This makes them plants to prune in February, to encourage growth to carry this year’s blooms.

Some of the most popular hydrangeas fit into those categories. ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas and ‘Bobo’ hydrangeas are panicles, while ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea is a smooth variety.

To prune a panicle or smooth hydrangea, remove the 3 Ds of dead, damaged, and diseased branches, along with any weak or crossing stems. Then, simply cut last year’s stems back to 1-3 buds, cutting to a healthy bud, to encourage strong growth and large flowers.

Always use clean and sharp pruning tools. To sharpen pruning shears ahead of trimming, a handheld blade sharpener, like this one at Amazon, is small enough to keep in your pocket or tool bag and can put a sharp edge on straight-bladed tools in just a few strokes.

Deadhead Old Wood Hydrangeas After the Last Frost

Old wood hydrangeas shouldn’t be pruned in the same way as above this month. It would be a major pruning mistake, and you’d simply cut off all the flower buds, ruining this year’s display. Indeed, in some climates, they should remain untouched all month.

You can remove old flower blooms from old wood bloomers only after the last frost in your region. It is only a job for gardeners in warm or milder US hardiness zones in February. Those in colder climates are better off leaving the blooms in place, as they are protecting new flower buds.

If, and only if, you prune mophead hydrangeas and other old wood types this month, simply cut off the old flower heads above the first set of healthy buds.

Remove Dead Stems and Debris From the Base

Anytime you remove larger stems from a hydrangea, you should prune it all the way back to ground level. Often, you see shrubs with stumps of older stems left a few inches above the ground. If yours looks like this, it is a good idea to remove any of these remaining stumps.

The remnants of old stems can retain moisture and create a damp environment around the base of the shrub. This can, in the worst-case scenario, lead to rotting and attract pests and diseases. It can be quick and simple to use a pair of clean, sharp loppers or a pruning saw to remove these stubs.

It is also advisable to remove any debris around the base of the hydrangea. Old leaves and debris can make an ideal hiding place for pests, and they can also harbor bacteria and fungi over winter.

Clearing them away keeps the plant healthy and prevents pests and diseases from attacking the shrub once the temperatures rise.

Check for Waterlogging

Hydrangeas need water, but they dislike sitting in constantly wet soil, especially over winter when the ground is cold and soggy.

Hydrangeas can develop root rot in waterlogged soil, so keep an eye on the soil condition around your plants. Out of all types, panicle hydrangeas are most tolerant of wetter soils, but even those will struggle in waterlogged ground over winter.

If you see persistent standing water in your flower beds, this is an obvious warning sign. Other signs of root rot include hydrangea leaves turning yellow and a rotten smell from the soil.

The best course of action is to lift the hydrangea and move it to a drier area of the garden. To improve the drainage in beds for the long-term, add lots of organic matter or install a French drain to divert water elsewhere in the garden.

FAQs

Do You Fertilize Hydrangeas in February?

February is too early to fertilize hydrangeas. The ideal time to feed is from early spring onwards, when the soil temperatures are rising, and the shrub is starting to grow for the new season.

Do You Water Hydrangeas in February?

If the soil feels unusually dry in late winter, you may need to water, but this is often unlikely. Be careful watering hydrangeas as you don’t want to overwater outdoor plants in winter. Use a soil moisture meter (available at Amazon) to judge when to water plants.

Do You Prune Climbing Hydrangeas in February?

No, if you grow a climbing hydrangea, this is not a month to prune it. You prune climbing hydrangeas in late summer or early fall, after flowering. If you prune in February, you will remove the buds, as climbing hydrangeas flower on old wood.

Now you know what to do with hydrangeas in February, it should all seem clearer. But hydrangeas are a flowering shrub surrounded by myths, such as that you can change the color of blooms and that they always need to be planted in the shade.

How true are all these stories you hear about hydrangeas? Our guide to hydrangea myths debunked reveals the truth and explains what misconceptions to disregard.

The fourth season of Netflix's Bridgerton has finally landed and there's just one thing the Gardens team here at Homes & Gardens are obsessing over: the white hydrangeas. It's no surprise they're a signature floral feature this season, as there's a lot of symbolism behind these regency garden staples. In fact, the color of hydrangeas has long had different connotations across historical and cultural traditions, giving a deeper meaning to the ones you grow in your yard.

There are so many hydrangea varieties to choose from, all with different shapes and growing habits, but it's the color that you should pay extra attention to. From white hydrangeas exuding purity and grace, to purple being symbolic of wealth and success, there's a lot more to the hue of your hydrangeas than aesthetic value.

So, it's not just the demands of hydrangea care you should be aware of when choosing the right bloom for your yard, understanding what the color represents can help you make the best choice for the feeling you want to create in your outdoor space. Here, we run through what the color of hydrangeas symbolize and some of the best varieties to choose.

What Does the Color of Your Hydrangeas Symbolize?

If you're feeling a little nervous to add a hydrangea to your yard, it might just be that you've fallen for hydrangea myths.

The truth is they're pretty straightforward to care for, especially once established, and will last for years to come.

White Hydrangeas – Purity, Grace, Abundance

It's not surprising to learn that white hydrangeas are linked to ideas of purity, much like other white flowers, and this doesn't stem from just one tradition.

In the Victorian language of flowers (or floriography, a historical language where plants represent different emotions and sentiments), white flowers symbolize grace, sincerity, and abundance.

In this context, they were often used to display deep emotional connection, without romantic intention, i.e. a beautiful flower to represent friendship and deep gratitude.

This is similar in historic Japanese tradition (where many hydrangeas are actually native to). White hydrangeas have long been understood as a sign of humility, thoughtfulness, and gratitude.

On the flip side, however, hydrangeas were also often used in Victorian times to send a message of vanity and boastfulness, thanks to their showy mass of flowers.

Luckily, in modern day aesthetics, white hydrangeas are appreciated once again for their impressive beauty and make ideal additions to minimalist gardens, offering a 'clean' look.

Pink Hydrangeas – Affection, Love, Sincerity

Pink hydrangeas are some of the most eye-catching to find in a cottage garden. In terms of what the color of hydrangeas symbolize, pink represents true affection, sincere feelings, and romance.

They're understood as flowers of heartfelt emotion and romantic inclination. Unlike other romantic spring flowers, like cut roses that quickly fade, pink hydrangeas are thought to symbolize steady affection rather than fleeting passion.

In Japanese tradition, these pink blooms likewise represent affection, as well as joy and warm appreciation. They're even considered to be a visual representation of a beating heart.

In modern day Western understanding, pink hydrangeas offer a gentle feel to gardens, continuing to present a feeling of romance and femininity.

Blue Hydrangeas – Apology, Regret, Forgiveness

When it comes to what the color of hydrangeas symbolize, blue is one with a little less joyful meaning.

In Victorian floriography, gifting blue hydrangeas sends a message of coldness, especially to love interests who rejected a relationship, criticizing their heartlessness. It's a flower that represents emotional distance or unreturned love.

Similarly, in Japanese tradition, blue hydrangeas are associated with apology, regret, and sincere reflection. It's a flower to show remorse and taking accountability.

There's also a color psychology aspect to blue hydrangeas, offering a melancholy feel. At the same time, just like blue houseplants, it can be interpreted as having a calming presence in modern day understanding.

It's also better received nowadays, often found in difficult times to portray understanding and empathy.

Purple Hydrangeas – Wealth, Success, Royalty

As a traditional royal color, it's not surprising that purple hydrangeas have Western associations with authority and wealth. Specifically, they're thought to represent refinement and elevation.

In Japanese tradition, they're flowers that are linked to nobility and wisdom, as well as thoughtfulness.

The fact they're a mix of pink and blue hydrangeas also gives purple hydrangeas a more complex meaning.

It's a purple plant that represents both admiration and emotional maturity, understanding, and reconciled feelings.

Green Hydrangeas – Renewal, Growth, Contentment

Green hydrangeas are arguably one of the luckiest plants you can have in your yard, with green flowers long being associated with good fortune, prosperity, and growth across many cultures and traditions.

Popular varieties like 'Limelight' are thought to represent new beginnings as the flowers first emerge green and later blush pink in summer. It offers a sense of renewal before offering a long-lasting display.

In modern Western understanding, they're also seen as sophisticated and timeless, with a natural elegance.

FAQs

How Do You Change the Color of Hydrangeas?

You can change the color of hydrangeas by amending the soil. Making the soil more acidic will turn hydrangeas blue, while alkaline will encourage a pink hue. It's worth noting this is only possible with some hydrangea varieties, most notably bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas.

When growing hydrangeas, it's important to familiarize yourself with a few things, including places you should never plant hydrangea and what to do with hydrangeas in fall to ensure you get another year of big, long-lasting blooms.

Shop Hydrangea Care Essentials

Hydrangeas are one of the most beautiful shrubs to grow in the yard, wowing with showy blooms, quintessential to cottage garden planting. However, in the wrong environment and with the wrong care, these shrubs can look far from impressive.

That's why picking the right hydrangea variety is the first step to successful hydrangea care. After speaking with the plant evaluation team at the esteemed Chicago Botanic Garden, there's one type that stands out as the most low-maintenance, resilient, and beginner-friendly: smooth hydrangeas.

Richard Hawke, Director of Ornamental Plant Research at Chicago Botanic Garden, says smooth hydrangeas have shown many beneficial qualities when being trialled in their evaluation program. They're easy to prune, attract pollinators, and now come in a number of hues, suiting different planting schemes. Here, he tells more on why he believes 'anyone can grow a smooth hydrangea,' and we share top tips on how to grow them.

Are smooth hydrangeas easy to grow?

Smooth hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens) are a deciduous species of hydrangea, with rounded or lacecap clusters of flowers in white and pink hues.

Among the many hydrangea varieties available, smooth hydrangeas are one of the most beginner-friendly, says Richard, especially when it comes to pruning hydrangeas correctly.

'It's a native shrub that booms on new growth,' he explains. 'This means it can be cut right back in fall and still flower next year.'

This makes it trickier to make a pruning mistake with smooth hydrangeas, where other types, like oakleaf hydrangea, flower on old wood. Pruning oakleaf in fall, for example, would remove buds for the next season.

In fact, giving smooth hydrangeas a hard prune (that is, cutting right back) in fall or early spring, can even encourage bigger blooms in summer.

You should use essential pruning tools, like these bypass pruning shears from Amazon, to make clean cuts when doing this.

Another reason Richard recommends smooth hydrangeas is because they are a US native plant. This makes them well adapted and resistant, particularly suited to US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8.

'It also makes them a great pollinator plant,' Richard adds.

Some smooth hydrangea varieties have lacecap flowers which are flatter, sterile flowerheads that expose the nectar-rich florets, making it more accessible for pollinators.

Another attractive feature of smooth hydrangeas is that they now come in so many different colors, Richard notes.

'It used to be you could only get creamy white smooth hydrangeas, like the classic 'Annabelle' hydrangea,' he says. 'Over the last 15 years, developments in cultivation have brought other white, green, and pink shades to the market.'

Expert tips for growing smooth hydrangeas

Even though smooth hydrangeas are one of the easiest types to grow, there are a few essential care requirements you have to get right to be successful with them:

• Light: Smooth hydrangeas are more shade-tolerant than some other hydrangeas, performing best in partial shade with four-to-six hours of sunlight a day.
• Soil: Another benefit of smooth hydrangeas is the fact they aren't particular about soil type and are quite adaptable, even to clay and sand soil. They do, however, require well-draining soil to ensure roots don't become oversaturated. Unlike mountain and bigleaf hydrangeas, smooth hydrangeas' flower color is not affected by soil pH.
• Water: Like other hydrangeas, smooth hydrangeas do best with consistent moisture levels. If they dry out, their leaves may wilt and flowers droop. In dry summer spells, make sure to water your hydrangea deeply every week.
• Fertilizing: Once established, smooth hydrangeas don't need a huge amount of fertilizer. Although, they can benefit from a light feeding in early spring ahead of the active growth season. You can either use a hydrangea fertilizer (from Amazon) or an organic feed, like compost and manure.
• Pruning: As mentioned, smooth hydrangeas bloom on new growth. This means you can prune them right back, ideally in early spring before active growth begins. Aim to cut it down to about 12-18 inches above the ground, encouraging bigger blooms in summer. You can also remove thin side branches in spring to boost growth, as these are less productive.

3 top smooth hydrangea varieties

FAQs

How big do smooth hydrangeas grow?

Smooth hydrangeas typically grow 3-6ft tall and wide, though it does depend on the variety, as you can get more compact ones. You can also prune smooth hydrangeas to keep them smaller by giving them a hard prune in late winter or early spring.

To help your success with hydrangeas, read our guide on what to do with hydrangeas in the fall and what to plant with hydrangeas. It's also worth stocking up on the below kit to make hydrangea maintenance easier:

As the vibrant blooms of summer begin to fade, hydrangeas undergo a breathtaking transformation. Varieties like Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ shift from fresh lime and cream into muted blush, burgundy, and dried parchment – a quintessential sign that the season is changing. But this striking display also raises an important question for anyone interested in hydrangea growing: what to do with hydrangeas in the fall?

How to care for hydrangeas in the fall

To find out, we spoke with hydrangea specialists who revealed the essential fall care tips, along with two things you should never do, to keep your plants healthy and ensure even more abundant, long-lasting flowers next summer.

1. Mulch for winter protection

Applying a fresh layer of mulch is a simple yet powerful way to protect your plants. In colder climates, a fall mulch will help protect the root zone from hard freezes and freeze-thaw cycles. Gardening expert Janet Loughrey advises, 'Apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of bark chips or other mulch around the base of hydrangea plants. Avoid placing bark against the trunk, which can make plants more susceptible to pests and diseases.'

For plants that struggled with drought during the growing season, hydrangea expert Lorraine Ballato suggests, 'I would add compost to increase the water retention ability of the soil and more mulch for insulation.'

2. Prune selectively

Only a few hydrangea varieties can be cut back in the fall, so it’s important to leave the rest untouched. Not all hydrangeas tolerate a fall trim, making it essential to know your variety. The only hydrangeas suitable for cutting back in the fall are those that flower on new wood, such as Hydrangea arborescens (like ‘Annabelle’) and Hydrangea paniculata (like ‘Limelight’).

As Lorraine Ballato explains, 'Once the plants go dormant and have dropped their leaves, you can cut back the varieties that flower on new wood only.' The spent flower heads on these varieties can either be removed or left for winter interest.

If you need to prune your hydrangeas, the Fiskars pruning shears, available on Amazon, are an excellent choice for precision and ease of use.

3. Prepare for winter conditions

For hydrangeas in marginally hardy zones or those exposed to harsh winter weather, a bit of extra protection can make all the difference.

'Winterizing hydrangeas is recommended if your big leaf hydrangea is in a marginally hardy zone or if it is exposed to winter weather like icy storms and heavy snow,' says Lorraine Ballato. She notes that other varieties like oak leaf and mountain hydrangeas are less susceptible to winterkill.

For plants in colder climates, Janet Loughrey adds, 'Move potted hydrangea plants against your home and protect with insulation to prevent the root zone from freezing. They can also be moved into an unheated garage or other cool room.'

4. Sanitize to prevent disease

Fall is the perfect time for a clean-up. If your hydrangeas showed signs of leaf spot or other fungal issues during the season, sanitation is critical.

'Leaf spots are usually a sign of a fungal infection,' Lorraine Ballato explains. 'Fungal spores overwinter quite well, regardless of how low the temperatures get. When the conditions are right again next year, they will come back to life and reinoculate the plant.'

She advises removing and trashing all fallen leaves and disinfecting your tools to prevent the spread of spores.

5. Cut stems for a dried display

Before you finish your fall clean-up, consider bringing a few long-stemmed blooms indoors. Hydrangea heads dry beautifully and can create a lasting display. Simply cut the stems, place them in a vase with a small amount of water, and allow the water to evaporate naturally over time. The flowers will dry in place, preserving their unique fall colors.

What never to do with hydrangeas in the fall

When it comes to caring for hydrangeas, knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing what you should do. Violating these two rules can jeopardize your next season's blooms.

1. Never prune old wood

It is vital not to prune any old wood from your hydrangeas, as doing so would be a significant hydrangea pruning mistake. One of the most common errors in hydrangea growing is cutting back varieties that bloom on old wood, such as bigleaf, oakleaf, and mountain hydrangeas.

'Pruning in fall will remove buds, resulting in no flowers the following year,' warns garden writer Janet Loughrey. Lorraine Ballato concurs, stating, 'That applies to all bigleaf hydrangeas. If you don’t know which type you have, it’s safer to do nothing.'

2. Never fertilize

Fall is the time when a hydrangea should be entering dormancy, not putting on new growth.

'Fertilizing and pruning are two actions that will stimulate a hydrangea, and fall is the time you want it to go to sleep and enter dormancy,' Lorraine Ballato cautions.

Janet Loughrey echoes this advice, adding, 'Fertilizing in fall will stimulate new growth that will be killed by a hard freeze, making plants more susceptible to stress and cold damage.'

The best time to fertilize hydrangeas is in the spring, when new growth is naturally emerging.

Caring for your hydrangeas in the fall is a simple yet rewarding practice that pays off in the spring. By offering a little protection, tidying up your garden, and – most importantly – resisting the urge to prune or fertilize at the wrong time, you set the stage for healthier plants and a more spectacular bloom next season.

Fall is ultimately a season for patience and observation. A little care now ensures the timeless beauty of your hydrangeas continues to thrive and delight for years to come.

Perennials such as black-eyed Susans and coneflowers provide similar benefits, offering enduring interest and value in the garden well into winter.

Shop everything you need

For those of us with a penchant for hydrangeas, it is impossible to celebrate the arrival of summer without speaking of Annabelles. We spend much of the year waiting with bated breath, whilst our Annabelle hydrangeas grow and swell (seemingly painfully slowly).

As you'll know if you love to grow hydrangeas, at this time of year the waiting finally comes to an end, and the beloved Annabelle hydrangea erupts into life with its enormous white inflorescences that emerge in great plumes amidst glowing green foliage, and flowers profusely all summer long.

One of the best hydrangea varieties for its striking mop heads, many of us can get rather competitive with the size and vigour of our Annabelle hydrangeas. Happily, there are several tried and tested methods to maximise the potential of Annabelle hydrangeas, and we are going to lift the lid on some of the best-kept secrets. Here's how to make sure your Annabelles have their best year ever, and get enormous clouds of white blooms all summer long

1. Water properly

If you know a thing or two about hydrangeas, then it will come as no surprise that watering hydrangeas thoroughly is of utmost importance. But even if you know how to water plants, you may find that you simply aren’t cutting it for your beloved Annabelles.

‘Hydrangeas have very shallow roots and large, moisture-loving leaves,’ explains gardening and preserving coach Robin Phelps. So it is vital that they are thoroughly quenched and never, ever become thirsty.

'The best thing to do is stick your finger into the soil and see if it is damp at the second knuckle,’ explains hydrangea expert Lorraine Bellato. ‘If it is, walk away. If not, irrigate until you reach that point.’

If you are serious about taking steps to make your Annabelle hydrangea flowers so enormous they make passersby green with envy, it is well worth investing in an automatic watering system, like this irrigation timer available at Amazon. Even if you think you are watering enough, most Annabelle hydrangeas do an awful lot more drinking than you might imagine.

2. Compost is your new best friend

There is one particular trick that, once implemented, will make you feel as though you hold the key to the secret behind gargantuan Annabelle hydrangeas.

'Amend the soil where you have your hydrangea by adding compost,' explains Lorraine. 'The microbes in compost help the hydrangea Annabelle to use nutrients far better and retain moisture for longer in between waterings.'

After years of growing beautiful Annabelles, last year I added a rich homemade compost, and when it came to flowering, the size of the merengue-like flower heads was simply bewildering. Family, friends, and neighbours all remarked at how astonishing they were, and I felt like I had finally unlocked their potential, and up till then, they had only flirted with the idea of blooming.

Knowing how to make compost that your Annabelle's will thrive on is refreshingly easy. As long as you have a compost bin with ventilation and drainage, like this compost bin available at Amazon, and lots of lovely garden and kitchen scraps, you are already there.

If you're inclined to skip this step because composting sounds difficult or hard work, it is, somewhat surprisingly, none of those things. It will be the difference between good and superb Annabelle hydrangea performance this summer.

3. Don't let them burn in the sun

This particular tip is for the die-hard Annabelle hydrangea enthusiasts that want to go that extra mile to ensure prolific and beguilingly large blooms this summer.

'Make sure your Annabelle hydrangeas can get relief from the sun,' explains Lorraine. 'Part shade is the best light condition for them.' Indeed, the full-throttle blazing heat from full sun can do much more harm than good for these sensitive plants.

If your hydrangeas receive intense midday sun, and relocating your plants is not an option, it is well worth providing man-made shade.

'Use a shade cloth, patio umbrellas, or even old bedsheets to protect delicate Annabelle hydrangeas from peak sun,' says Robin.

A shade canopy, like this sun block shade cloth available at Amazon, will prevent burning and leaf scorch (which stunts growth) and will protect your Annabelles from soil compaction and crusting, which makes water absorption much more of a battle.

4. Provide support

The dreaded words us Annabelle lovers loathe to hear: 'But they have such weak stems.' Indeed, this particular type of hydrangea can throw itself rather dramatically to the ground at the lightest touch of wind or rain, or if its flowers simply become too heavy.

'Just about everything is great about Annabelle,' says Lorraine. 'She flowers on new wood, which means you don't have to worry about winter cold or deer browse. She is a native and, as such, is easy to grow in terms of cultural conditions, and her white flowers aren't so stark a white as to shock your appreciation of the rest of the garden. The one and only drawback is her weak stems.'

If this recurring issue is a dealbreaker for you, then it is worth investing in the 'Incrediball' hydrangea, which is a cultivar of Annabelle but has been improved to have far more robust stems. They have enormous mophead blooms that have to be seen to be believed.

Try these Incrediball hydrangeas available at Nature Hills, which have strong stems, specifically bred not to flop.

But if, like me, you are sticking with your good old-fashioned (and floppy) hydrangea Annabelle, I have always found it is quite simple to keep them upright and tidy with simple plant supports. Although it has to be said, when the early September rain starts, I have been known to stand over by hydrangeas with an umbrella.

5. Use rose food

'Rose food is terrific for Annabelle hydrangea as it has a range of nutrients that the plant can use.' explains Lorraine.

'Annabelle is a native plant, so fertilizer is a bonus. Stay away from 'balanced' fertilizers like 10-10-10. No plant uses nutrients in the same amount, and using these balanced formulas just contributes to run-off and pollution. Go with rose food instead.'

Rose food, like this organic rose food from Burpee, will provide slow-release nutrients that will continue to feed your Annabelles for up to three months.

Your Annabelle Hydrangeas Summer Wishlist

Of course, how much of a spectacle your Annabelle hydrangeas are come summer owes a lot to how you pruned them in the winter.

Knowing how to prune Annabelle hydrangeas is crucial. 'Please do not ever cut them to the ground,' warns Lorraine. 'The stems will never be strong enough to hold up those delicious flowers. Leave a few old stems on the plant each spring (about one-third) so you can create a support structure for the new stems that will bear the flowers.'

I’ve grown hydrangeas in so many different gardens over the years. From lush, damp, bigleaf types tucked into shady UK borders, to oakleaf hydrangeas clinging on in the dark, dry corners of a Tuscan courtyard. And believe me, I adore a good hydrangea as much as the next gardener. But, in recent years, many gardeners have complained (myself included) about keeping these shrubs alive during challenging and unpredictable summers.

While a few hydrangea species can handle a little bit of heat and drought, many of the classic types simply can’t cope, especially if you’re gardening in US zones 8, 9, or 10, where heatwaves and drought spells are becoming the norm.

So, if you’re considering learning how to grow hydrangeas in your yard this year, I’d suggest pausing for a moment and weighing up your options. In this piece, I’m sharing what I’ve learned: which hydrangeas are the most difficult to keep happy in today’s climate, and, more importantly, which brilliant, tough native shrubs you can plant instead.

Hydrangea varieties to avoid in challenging climates

If you are wondering why gardeners are not planting hydrangeas, the answer is fairly simple. It is all to do with challenging and unpredictable weather patterns, which can affect a range of US hardiness zones.

The hydrangeas I’d tell you to avoid, or at the very least, approach with caution, are the thirsty hydrangea varieties.

Hydrangea macrophylla, the common bigleaf variety, is one such type I would avoid if you are worried about hot weather and drought.

Whilst popular for its flamboyant and showy blooms, seen in the image above, this variety can lose a lot of moisture from its thick, succulent leaves in summer, meaning extra watering duties. And, let's face it, no one wants to waste more water than is needed.

In addition, Hydrangea serrata, commonly known as the mountain hydrangea, and Hydrangea arborescens, or the smooth hydrangea, are pretty demanding and need cool, moist soil and some protection from harsh sun. During July and August days, with high heat and no rain, these species can struggle.

So, if your region is facing hotter, drier summers, like in California, Texas, Georgia or Arizona, where water conservation is surely on your mind, it’s probably time to rethink whether these high-maintenance shrubs are worth the battle.

Luckily for us, there are many tough native options and shrubs that thrive on neglect that bring just as much color and life to your garden, but without the constant fuss.

Tough shrub alternatives to grow instead

If you want something reliable and resilient, I’d point you straight to native US shrubs. One good option would be buttonbush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis.

It’s a total pollinator magnet, with spherical white blooms that look like little pincushions. It handles everything, including wet, dry, heat, you name it.

Buttonbush plants are available from Amazon.

I would also suggest learning how to grow hibiscus varieties, or, more specifically, Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon).

Hardy down to zone 5, this pink-flowering shrub is made of tough stuff and produces masses of flowers for most of the summer. And, the best part? It isn't usually phased by full sun and dry weather.

Hibiscus live plants are available from Nature Hills.

However, if you are keen on hydrangeas, I would suggest growing either the non-native panicle hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, or the native North American oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, both of which are considered to be some of the toughest and most drought-tolerant species.

Oakleaf hydrangea live plants are available from Amazon.

Of course, you can plant anything you wish in your garden. And, if you are dead set on growing bigleaf hydrangeas, you can grow them in most climates, but be prepared to provide regular deep watering in the summer months.

Alternatively, see our guide to some of the best low-maintenance drought-tolerant plants to fill your yard with easy-to-grow species this year.

Shop garden accessories

Pruning your climbing hydrangeas at the right time and in the right way is crucial. By sticking to the right timeline, you will enjoy a profusion of flowers every year.

There are two well-known climbing hydrangeas, namely Japanese climbing hydrangeas, Hydrangea anomala, and standard climbing hydrangeas, Hydrangea petiolaris. Both can fill garden walls and fences with lush green foliage and white flowers and fortunately for us, the pruning approach is the same.

So, while you might know how to grow climbing hydrangeas, getting your approach to pruning is vitally important for healthy and floriferous vines. Here, we share all the information you need to keep these climbing plants under control and looking their best.

Learn the best approach to prune climbing hydrangeas

While not as well known as standard shrub hydrangeas or panicle hydrangeas, climbing varieties are just as spectacular. If you are considering landscaping with hydrangeas this year, growing vertically and filling walls, fences and pergolas with these unique climbing plants is a good idea. However, pruning them at the wrong time can reduce flowering and damage your plant. Here, we share the best way to prune climbing hydrangeas.

When to prune climbing hydrangeas

Learning how to create a vertical garden is a good idea for any sized plot. However, large and unruly vining plants can look messy and over time can become a hazard, particularly during the winter months when storms and high winds are common and can cause top-heavy climbers to collapse.

'Climbing hydrangeas are always a crowd favorite,' says Whitney Laritson, Merchandising & Content Manager at Nature Hills. 'They're slow to establish so if you plant one, make sure to give it a few years to really get growing. Pruning won't be necessary until years three or four, but after this annual trimming is key.'

So, learning the right way to prune hydrangeas is the best way to keep them in check. The ideal time to do this is in late summer or early fall once the white flowers have finished blooming and turned brown.

If you miss this window, do not worry. I would suggest simply deadheading your climbing hydrangeas and waiting until next year to prune. Buds may have already started forming in the fall and winter, so trimming at this time is not advisable unless you are prepared to have a year without many blooms.

How to prune climbing hydrangeas

It goes without saying, but when pruning, use clean, sharp tools, such as these Felco snips from Walmart, to easily remove unruly, dead and damaged stems. Whatever pruners you use, it is always a good idea to learn how to clean pruning shears to keep them in good condition and make your life that much easier when slicing through thick stems.

During late summer and fall, prune any long shoots immediately after flowering. You do not need to be too careful, simply cut back heavy or dense growth to keep the plant tight to the vertical surface, removing any spent blooms and straggly stems as you do so. If you spot any dead or broken stems when pruning, be sure to remove these too.

Most flowers will be produced towards the top of the plant, however, so you want to leave a fair amount of growth in the upper sections, but do not be afraid to cut back longer whip-like stems. Come spring, your climbing hydrangea will produce lots of lush new growth.

If you want to do some restorative or hard pruning, this is best done in the springtime. However, it is best to do this in stages, pruning by a third one year, a third the next year, and so on. This is a good idea if you want to encourage your climbing hydrangea to bloom lower down, but while you are pruning, the amount of flowers might reduce for one or two years. Once complete, you can then stay on top of your pruning tasks and enjoy a well-maintained and compact climbing hydrangea.

FAQs

Do I need to tie in or support climbing hydrangeas after pruning?

Climbing hydrangeas are self-clinging, using aerial roots to attach to walls and fences. For this reason, it is always best to think carefully about where you allow a climbing hydrangea to grow, as they can damage plaster and stonework. While they are self-clinging, I would suggest using wires to provide some support during winds and rain in the fall and winter, which will be easier to do after pruning when the foliage and flowers drop.

During fall and winter, it is a good idea to complete some mulching at the base of your hydrangea plant, which will help to protect it and feed the soil. In addition, fertilize climbing hydrangeas with a slow-release fertilizer during spring, which will help them to produce plenty of fresh new growth during the growing season ahead. I would suggest feeding only once or twice at this time, as generally, these plants are self-sufficient.

Let's kick off with the good news that mophead hydrangeas are very simple to grow and do not require lots of pruning. You can get a fantastic display of large and spectacular blooms year after year with only a light trim.

Mophead hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) will thrive in a shady spot protected from intense summer sun - especially important in warmer climates - and when kept watered in dry spells.

The pruning required is minimal, though they will perform at their best with some attention each year. It means knowing when and how to prune hydrangeas is important to keep the shrub healthy and guarantee a great display of blooms.

A guide to pruning mophead hydrangeas

Mopheads are hugely popular hydrangea varieties and the most common choice for anyone landscaping with hydrangeas. This is because the shrubs are easy to maintain, reliably bloom, and are fast-growing. The ease of care extends to pruning, as mophead hydrangeas can perform well with very little pruning.

When to prune a mophead hydrangea

Many hydrangea pruning mistakes occur as differing types of hydrangea are trimmed at different times of year, due to whether they flower on new wood or old wood.

Mophead hydrangeas predominantly flower on old wood - the buds are formed the previous year. However, newer cultivars of mophead hydrangeas can also form buds on new growth. So, how does that affect when to prune a mophead hydrangea?

The best time to prune a mophead hydrangea is late winter or early spring, just before the new growth begins and the leaves are starting to open. A light trim at this time can shape the shrub without removing the buds and, as it is a deciduous shrub, you get a good look at the form when it is bare. Leaving last year’s faded blooms in place over winter also protects the buds from getting damaged by the winter frosts.

Certain other hydrangeas that flower on old wood are pruned after they bloom in summer - such as when you prune an oakleaf hydrangea. However, as mophead hydrangeas require only a light touch when trimming, they can be safely pruned in spring without affecting that season’s flowering.

The timing for pruning mophead hydrangeas is more similar to pruning Annabelle hydrangeas or cutting back limelight hydrangeas - both types that flower on new wood. Such shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring just before the buds break.

Heading out to prune mophead hydrangeas in summer or fall would be a pruning mistake. Pruning late in summer risks removing the flower buds that will carry next year’s flowers and trimming in fall can also be risky. Pruning in fall stimulates the growth of new shoots, which will be damaged by frosts, and removes buds - so do not cut back the hydrangea in fall.

How to prune a mophead hydrangea

The steps to prune a mophead hydrangea are very simple. The flowering shrubs require merely a light trim annually to keep them healthy and put on a great display.

Take a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears and start with deadheading all the old flower heads, cutting carefully just above a pair of buds and taking care not to remove any other flower buds. Trimming each stem back to the first set of opening leaves may be time-consuming, but it is worth it for a fantastic flowering display.

Examine the mophead hydrangea and remove any dead, damaged, diseased, or crossing stems back to the base. Removing deadwood and weak stems will help to improve air circulation throughout the shrub.

Those two steps outlined above are often sufficient. If you have an older mophead hydrangea, removing one or two of the oldest stems to the base can rejuvenate the shrub. Large stems growing in unwanted directions, such as over paths or too low to the ground, can be completely removed.

A neglected mophead hydrangea can be cut completely to the base, however, it means a year without flowers. A more measured approach is to prune one-third of the oldest stems each year as part of a longer-term rejuvenation plan.

FAQs

Should you deadhead mophead hydrangeas?

Deadheading mophead hydrangeas is not required throughout the flowering season. Whereas deadheading roses and other summer-flowering plants are recommended to continue the display of blooms, deadheading mophead hydrangeas won’t encourage another flush of flowers.

It is better to leave the blooms in place until spring, not only do dried hydrangea blooms add to a winter garden but the heads protect the buds from cold. If you do not like the look of brown hydrangea flowers, you can remove them at the end of summer.

Knowing when to prune hydrangeas is vital to keep these fantastic shrubs thriving and healthy. Whether you have shrubs as part of your flower bed ideas or grow hydrangeas in pots, always make sure you know the type of hydrangea before heading out with the garden tools to prune. It can save you from making a mistake that sees you miss out on a year of glorious flowers or even puts the health of the hydrangea at risk.

Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) are hugely popular varieties of hydrangea that can be grown as deciduous shrubs or small trees to dazzle in a backyard thanks to their late summer conical flowers.

Native to temperate regions of China and Japan, panicle hydrangeas have been grown in domestic gardens for over century and new developments in breeding have increased the number and choice of cultivars for anyone wanting to grow hydrangeas at home.

If you have hydrangeas, it is important to know how to prune hydrangeas to keep the shrubs healthy and performing at their best year after year. This includes understanding the best time to prune, which varies depending on the hydrangea type. Our guide looks at when to prune panicle hydrangeas in late winter, and helps you know the best time to trim.

What is a panicle hydrangea?

A panicle hydrangea is a multi-stemmed deciduous shrub that produces large panicles of flowers in shades of white, cream, or lime green. The plant likes partial shade but can cope with the sun better than other hydrangeas. The shrub can tolerate heat and cold and is hardy in US Hardiness zones 3-8. Panicle hydrangeas can grow up to 15 feet tall, though there are compact varieties for smaller spaces or growing hydrangeas in pots.

When to cut back panicle hydrangeas

Knowing when to prune hydrangeas can be tricky, as the time frame varies depending on the hydrangea variety you are growing. The flowering habit is the pivotal factor for when to prune, so let's take a look at how panicle hydrangeas flower and how that dictates the pruning time.

The best time to prune a panicle hydrangea

Panicle hydrangeas produce their flowers on new wood - the buds appear on growth that develops that year.

Any hydrangeas that produce blooms on new growth can be pruned when dormant. That includes popular hydrangea types such as Limelight hydrangeas, and Annabelle hydrangeas, and varieties such as ‘Phantom’ and ‘Quick Fire’. Pruning during dormancy is advantageous as you can get a good look at the shrub’s structure once the leaves have dropped.

To avoid making a major hydrangea pruning mistake and trimming at the wrong time, always check whether your hydrangea flowers on old or new wood before reaching for the garden tools.

So, when is the best time to prune hydrangeas that flower on new wood? ‘The ideal time to prune panicle hydrangeas is late winter to early spring before new growth begins,’ recommends Lydia Beaumont, a gardening expert and writer for Gardeners Yards. ‘Since panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood, pruning during this time encourages healthy growth and ensures vibrant blooms for the season.’

It is possible to prune from late fall onwards once the hydrangea goes dormant, however, it is recommended to wait until after the last frosts before pruning. The window to prune is between late February and April, depending on your climate and US hardiness zone, and the usual sign is to wait until you see the first buds start to swell and then prune.

However, Matthew Wilson, landscape and gardening expert at Handy Gardeners, advises how monitoring the sunlight levels can be a great indicator of when to prune panicle hydrangeas.

‘While many are waiting for buds to reach a size where they can estimate the pruning time, I always tell people to observe sunlight patterns,’ claims Mathew.

‘When days begin to get longer after a winter season, increased sun exposure prompts the plant to start waking up. This is a more delicate signal that it's already time to prune, especially towards the end of winter.’

It may be best to prune in the late winter or early spring, but if you wonder if you can cut back the hydrangea in the fall - the answer is yes. Pruning in fall once the hydrangea goes dormant is OK, but does come with increased risks of cold and frost getting into pruning cuts and causing damage.

When not to prune a panicle hydrangea

A panicle hydrangea can be pruned anytime during late fall, winter, and early spring when they are dormant.

The shrubs should not be pruned in summer, cutting anywhere from mid-spring through to fall when actively growing would be a pruning mistake. Pruning too late in spring or summer will remove flower buds and lead to fewer blooms and a poorer display from your hydrangea.

There are also risks to pruning too early and trimming a panicle hydrangea in early fall before the plant has entered dormancy. ‘It may stimulate new growth on the tree just as early frost is moving into an area; thus those tender shoots will be attacked, weakening the whole plant,’ warns Mathew Wilson of early fall pruning.

Shop tools to cut back panicle hydrangeas

FAQs

When to deadhead hydrangea paniculata?

Panicle hydrangeas can be deadheaded throughout the summer to neaten the shrub after hydrangea flowers turn brown. Deadheading hydrangeas can help the plant to focus its energy on the development of buds and roots, however, it is recommended to cease deadheading in late summer. This allows the hydrangea to focus on going dormant, rather than stimulating new growth, and dried hydrangea blooms can look attractive in a winter garden.

With so many types available, it means a wealth of potential for landscaping with hydrangeas. While many hydrangeas do not need major annual trimming, knowing your types is key to avoiding pruning at the wrong time. However, no matter the the time of year, small-scale pruning like removing diseased or damaged branches is best done as you spot them to avoid long-term health problems for the shrub.

If you live in an area that gets lots of wandering deer, you'll be familiar with the need to constantly find new ways to protect your garden plants. Before you put any precautions in place you need to figure out which of your plants are safe.

Luckily, there are plenty of deer-resistant plants to choose from when planning a garden that won't become damaged by these beautiful creatures. However, you might need to think twice about growing hydrangeas in your yard if you often get visiting deer, as these popular summer blooms are a favorite for deer to snack on.

But don't lose all hope, this doesn't mean you can't have hydrangeas in your yard. Here, experts have shared their top tips for protecting hydrangeas from deer.

Are hydrangeas deer-resistant?

Unfortunately, even with so many hydrangea varieties to choose from, these showy flowers aren't deer-resistant.

'Although, some types of hydrangeas – mountain (H. serrata) and bracted (H. involucrata) – seem to less desired by deer, likely due to the texture of their foliage,' notes Amy Enfield, Senior Horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'Deer favor the tender flower buds that are within their reach, often leaving your hydrangea flowerless for the season,' she explains.

The good news is that minor grazing and damage from deer are unlikely to affect the health of your hydrangeas in the long term and you can expect to see them bounce back.

'However, yearly grazing of established hydrangea plants may result in never having flowers, and repeat grazing of young plants can severely damage your hydrangeas so they may not be able to recover,' says Amy.

'While nothing may be fool-proof, gardeners eager to protect their hydrangeas can try a handful of methods,' she adds.

5 ways to protect hydrangeas from deer

If you notice that your hydrangeas aren't blooming, it might be a symptom of deer grazing impacting their ability to flower, but this doesn't mean it's time to give up on growing hydrangeas.

While it can't be guaranteed that these methods will protect your hydrangeas from deer entirely, as Amy mentions, they are tried and tested and tend to be effective at reducing the damage caused by deer. Discover expert tips for protecting hydrangeas from deer below.

1. Put a physical barrier in place

This one may sound obvious, but perhaps the most efficient way of keeping deer away from plants is putting a barrier in place that prevents them from getting to the plants in the first place.

'Consider using a physical barrier such as a deer fence at an adequate height they cannot jump over or use netting,' suggests Kelly Funk, gardening expert and president of Park Seed.

Opting for a deer fence is also a much more permanent solution to protecting your hydrangeas, so you can be reassured that they will be safe from deer year after year. 'Your fencing needs be at least eight feet high since deer can jump over shorter garden fences,' advises Amy.

Alternatively, you can cover your hydrangeas with this netting for garden protection from Amazon as a short-term solution.

2. Choose deer-resistant companion plants

Companion planting is a popular technique used by gardeners to create a planting scheme that protects itself from damage. It involves growing different plants together that will keep pests and diseases away from each other.

'Plants with strong scents, like lavender, marigolds and sage are less appealing to deer and can be planted around hydrangeas to create a natural scent barrier,' says Amy. 'Planting your hydrangeas near plants with spines, spiky growth or thick leathery leaves, like fountain grass, barberry or holly may also help keep deer away,' she adds.

It can be wise to place your hydrangeas among a fragrant garden or even plant a herb garden around your hydrangeas to create a scent that deer cannot stand and will be deterred by. Likewise, dense foliage can make it difficult for deer to reach your hydrangeas.

'However, deer-resistant companion planting is not fool proof,' warns Amy. 'If food is scarce, deer will bypass these plants and go directly for hydrangeas,' she adds.

There are lots of options for what to plant with hydrangeas but marigolds, available at Walmart, are a trusted companion plant that deter many pests and wildlife.

3. Use a deer-repellent sprays

Another option if you're really struggling to keep deer away from your hydrangeas is to use deer-repellent sprays. There are many available on the market, just like this deer and rabbit repellent spray from Amazon that you simply spray around and on your plants.

'Commercial deer repellents, available as sprays or granules contain strong smells (such as essential oils, garlic, rotten eggs or predator urine) which deter deer,' explains Amy. 'Repellents should be applied regularly, especially after rain, for continued repellence,' she advises.

It's important to always follow manufacturer instructions for the repellent you have bought and take care to use essential gardening tools for skin protection, like gardening gloves.

4. Install motion-activated deterrents

This method is one to consider if you have returning deer that won't seem to stay away. Existing in multiple forms, a motion-activated deterrent will scare away deer that come into your yard without causing them harm.

'Devices like motion-activated sprinklers or lights can scare off deer when they approach the plants,' explains Amy. 'This works best when deer are not used to frequent human activity,' she adds.

You can strategically place your sprinkler with a motion sensor, like this one from Amazon, near your hydrangeas so that it goes off when deer, or other wildlife, approach. You can likewise consider garden security lighting to come on when deer come near your flowers.

'We use ultrasonic deer repellents (available at Amazon) in our production fields to keep deer away from our plants. These repellents are easy to install, solar-powered and our preferred method of deterrence,' says Tammy Sons, horticulturist from TN Nursery.

5. Plant your hydrangeas close to your house

Working in a similar way to motion-activated repellents, human activity can scare away deer in your yard. Thinking carefully where to place hydrangeas can therefore be an effective solution.

'Planting your hydrangeas close to your house as part of a foundation planting or around a patio can also help deter deer feeding. Deer are naturally skittish and will avoid areas with lots of activity such as near a house,' says Amy.

Other reasons you might want to grow hydrangeas near your house is that they're one of the best shrubs for privacy and you can make your hydrangeas pink or blue based on pH of soil to brighten up the planting around your home. As Amy mentions, you might also want to consider hydrangeas as part of your patio planting where you spend a lot of time in the yard and will discourage deer coming nearby.

FAQs

When should I protect my hydrangeas from deer?

While it's possible for deer to munch on your hydrangeas at any point of the year, experts say that it's more likely to be a problem during colder seasons.

'Deer grazing is more problematic during late fall and winter, when food is scarce. Using protective barriers during this time is important to help keep your hydrangeas safe,' says Amy Enfield, Senior Horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'With a combination of several protection strategies, you may be able to keep deer away you’re your hydrangeas or at the very least reduce the damage the deer cause,' she adds.

Damage from wildlife in your yard is sometimes inevitable, but with these methods you can keep your hydrangeas safe and deter deer from them. Alongside these protective measures, try providing an alternative food source for the deer in your yard, such as grasses, fruits and store-bought deer food. This way you can enjoy these creatures while ensuring they don't snack on your prized flowers. It can also be a good idea to deer-proof the rest of your yard by choosing deer-resistant ground cover plants and deer-resistant spring bulbs.

Climbing hydrangeas are beautiful vining plants that will fill vertical surfaces with lush green foliage and elegant blooms. Maximizing growing space in this way is particularly useful if you have a small yard, such as a balcony or enclosed terrace, and covering walls and fences with greenery will make the most of your outside room, whatever the size.

There are two well-known vining hydrangeas, Hydrangea anomala, also known as the Japanese climbing hydrangea, and Hydrangea petiolaris, both of which are commonly referred to as climbing hydrangeas. These plants have a similar appearance, with flat umbel-like blooms, but the Hydrangea anomala species is markedly smaller in size than Hydrangea petiolaris, which can reach up to 50 feet tall.

Climbing hydrangeas are popular plants both for their low-maintenance nature and their tolerance of shade, covering darker corners with attractive leaves and charming flowers. So, if you are considering landscaping with hydrangeas this year, our guide has all the information you need to learn how to grow elegant climbing hydrangeas.

How to grow climbing hydrangeas

While lesser known when compared with other hydrangea varieties, climbing hydrangeas are the perfect combination of beauty and utility that can brighten shady yards. This resilient climbing plant is often slow to establish, but once settled can quickly vine and fill garden walls, fences and outdoor structures.

Things to know about climbing hydrangeas

Much like learning how to grow hydrangeas that are in shrub form, climbing species are similarly low-maintenance and easy to grow. Native to Asia, climbing hydrangeas are found growing in woodland areas across the Himalayas, the Korean Peninsula, and throughout China and Japan.

'Climbing hydrangeas are a popular choice among gardeners and landscape designers, appreciating the teardrop-like green leaves and flat-topped white blooms,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens.

'Although both the Hydrangea anomala and the Hydrangea petiolaris species are deciduous, both can create unique and intricate stem structures that look particularly good against a light stone backdrop or a wooden fence in fall and winter,' Rachel adds.

These climbing hydrangeas produce aerial roots above ground, much the same as English ivy, Hedera helix. For this reason, they do not need staking or tying in but be warned, they can damage stonework, plaster and bricks, so only plant this climber where it is free to grow without concern for damaging your home.

'Fortunately for gardeners, climbing hydrangeas are particularly tough,' Rachel continues, 'growing well from US hardiness zone 5 to US hardiness zone 8. In cooler, northern regions, it would be better to position your plant in a sunny spot, whereas in southerly, warmer areas, dappled shade is a good idea.'

Grow guide for climbing hydrangeas

• Soil: As woodland plants, climbing hydrangeas do best when grown in rich, fertile soils. They prefer slightly acidic soil, with a pH below 7. If your soil is alkaline, you can use a soil acidifier, available from Amazon, which will help keep your plant happy. I would also suggest annually mulching your borders to keep your soil in good shape and full of nutrients, using something like this organic soil, available from Walmart. While you can mulch at any time of year, I tend to do so in fall and winter when the borders are cut back and weed-free.
• Light: Climbing hydrangeas are some of the best climbing plants for shade. While they prefer dappled light with a few hours of sunshine each day, they can grow just fine in full shade. The shadier the spot, however, the fewer blooms your plant will produce. In warmer zones, such as US hardiness zone 7 plus, it is preferable to position your plant in a shady corner, to protect it during the warm summer months.
• Watering: Watering hydrangeas is crucial to their success, and much the same as other species, climbing hydrangeas prefer their soil to retain some moisture at all times. Watering at least once a week, especially during the first year, is important to help your plant establish roots.
• Fertilizing: Climbing hydrangeas do not tend to need feeding, and an annual application of mulch should provide what they need to thrive. If you are looking to maximize flower production, you can apply a fertilizer high in phosphorous during spring and summer. Use something like this bloom booster fertilizer, available from Amazon.
• Pruning: Most hydrangea pruning is carried out in late winter and early spring, however, when pruning climbing hydrangeas you must take a different approach. It is best to prune any dead and damaged stems in early summer after flowering. Your plant will take a while to establish, so pruning may not be necessary in the first three years. Once it is happy and settled, climbing hydrangeas may need pruning once a year to keep them compact and shapely.

FAQs

Should I deadhead climbing hydrangeas once they finish flowering?

Learning how to deadhead hydrangeas is a timely task. I recommend leaving brown, faded flowerheads on your climbing plant through the winter, which will provide structure and interest in the yard. In early spring, typically late February or March, before any new growth emerges, is the best time to complete some deadheading by carefully snipping off any old blooms.

Can I change the flower color of my climbing hydrangea?

No, this is not possible. While you might have completed some research into how to change hydrangea color, this only applies to specific species, namely Hydrangea macrophylla or Hydrangea serrata, which are two common large-leaf varieties many of us grow in our yards. Climbing hydrangeas will remain a fixed color regardless of soil treatment.

If you are keen on a climbing hydrangea that is not white, Hydrangea hydrangeoides (Schizophragma hydrangeoides syn.) is a rare and unusual option.

'This is one of the easiest hydrangeas to grow,' says Lorraine Ballato, hydrangea expert and National Garden Bureau member. 'It was recently added to the Hydrangea family by taxonomists.

'People like it because of the option to have a pink flowered climber that isn't fussy about soil or light conditions,' Lorraine adds. 'It does well in shade and is very drought tolerant once established. It also does not take as long to flower as the traditional climbing hydrangea.'

Hydrangea seeds are available from Amazon.

If you fancy giving hydrangea propagation a try, why not consider growing climbing hydrangea seeds, available from Amazon? These can be sown in the fall or early spring, sowing thinly on top of a gritty soil mix. Germination will take one to two weeks, and you should keep seeds protected from the cold during the first winter.

Q: Is it true you can change the color of hydrangeas' flowers? I have a pink one in a large patio pot, but I am interested in turning it blue – how can I do so?

A: Changing pink flowers to blue and vice versa is indeed possible with some varieties of hydrangeas: Hydrangea macrophylla and Hydrangea serrata. This seemingly magical transformation is all down to the type of soil plants are growing in, and it can be controlled by green-fingered enthusiasts with a bit of know-how and patience.

Below, gardening pros explain the science behind this intriguing phenomenon. Plus, they share tips on how to try it out for yourself, when growing hydrangeas at home.

Expert tips on how to change hydrangea color

Whether growing hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, this advice will come in handy to maintain or change their color.

Why hydrangea flowers can change color

Hydrangea flowers are pink or blue depending on the level of available aluminum present in the soil, explains Kristen Pullen of Star® Roses and Plants. The pH level of the soil plays a major role here, as aluminum ions are only mobile (and available) under acidic conditions.

'For hydrangeas to be blue, there must be both mobile aluminum and acidic soil,' she says. If this is the goal, you'll want to aim for a pH level of 6.0 or below.

On the other hand, a pH level above 7.0 means the soil is alkaline, and will result in pink or reddish flowers. If the pH level is somewhere in between, the blooms are likely to be purple, or a mix of both blue and pink.

How to change the color of your hydrangea's flowers

'Soil testing is a great starting point if you're hoping to change the color of your hydrangea blooms,' says Anna Ohler, owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery. Soil pH testers are available on Amazon – this one also measures moisture and light levels.

Once you know where your soil is on the scale, you can make moves to adjust it according to the color you want.

Remember, for blue flowers, you'll need to make sure it's acidic. Kirsten says, 'The best soil acidifier for this is a product containing aluminum sulfate. It will both lower the pH of the soil and add aluminum.' You can also lower the soil pH by adding garden sulfur, notes Anna.

Niwar Nasim, president of Nasim Landscape, also suggests using an organic, acidic mulch, such as pine needles – 'a great way to maintain lower pH levels over time.' If you're growing your flowering shrub in a pot, using a soil mix made for acid-loving plants, such as this one from Coast of Maine at Amazon, is also a good way to help keep those blooms blue.

For pink flowers, Anna recommends incorporating garden lime into the soil to raise the pH. This garden lime from Jobe's Organics at Amazon is a well-rated choice.

How long does it take to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

Changing the color of your hydrangeas won't happen overnight – it may take several months.

Anna Ohler says, 'Some areas may have soils that lean heavily towards the acidic side, or heavily toward the alkaline side. In areas like this, it can be tricky to turn the color of your hydrangeas and may take a few seasons to successfully adjust your soil pH.'

'It's important to regularly test your soil’s pH to make sure it stays within the right range for your desired hydrangea color,' adds Niwar.

Will white hydrangeas change color according to soil pH?

White hydrangeas, such as 'Annabelle', are increasingly popular and look fabulous in contemporary and cottage garden schemes alike. They will not change color according to the pH of the soil. However, the flowers of some varieties, such as Bobo® panicle hydrangeas from Nature Hills, will put on a pinkish hue as they age.

Need more advice for these blossoming beauties? Our guides on how to prune hydrangeas and watering hydrangeas are full of practical tips.

If there's one summer flower that isn't losing popularity any time soon, it's hydrangeas. These showy blooms are loved for their large flower heads in blue, purple, pink or white. Their pretty spherical shape has earned them a spot in pots, and borders and they're even used as cut flowers.

If you grow hydrangeas in your yard, their large blooms are likely a prized possession among the rest of your summer planting. That's why seeing them turn brown and watching your hydrangeas wilt can be concerning. While it's true hydrangeas don't bloom forever, you can typically expect them to last from mid-spring through to the end of summer.

If you notice your hydrangea flowers starting to go brown before the time they should be, it's an indication something isn't quite right and you need to step in to prevent further problems. Here, I've listed five common causes of brown hydrangea flowers with expert tips on how to solve this issue.

5 reasons why your hydrangea flowers are turning brown

Hydrangeas can be grown across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9 and will typically flower until fall arrives. Once their flowers are spent, you will need to deadhead your hydrangeas to encourage returning blooms next spring. However, if you find you're deadheading them during the middle of summer, there might be a bigger underlying issue causing your hydrangea flowers to go brown. Discover five common causes and solutions below.

1. They're receiving too little water

It says it in its name - hydrangeas thrive when well-watered. If you're wondering if hydrangeas are drought-tolerant, the answer depends on the variety. However, for the most part, hydrangeas need watering often during summer and will quickly start to deteriorate in appearance if not.

'The most likely reason for hydrangea flowers turning brown is a lack of water. Hydrangea shrubs are moisture lovers that need a regular source of water to look their best,' notes gardening expert Janet Loughrey.

Another sign your hydrangea is dehydrated is browning tips on the leaves, although brown spots on hydrangea leaves is a different common hydrangea disease.

'Increase watering as needed. Hydrangeas need at least an inch of water per week,' says Janet. 'Though browning on hydrangea flowers can’t be reversed, adequate moisture will prevent new flowers from turning brown,' she adds.

2. They're exposed to too much sunlight

Have you ever considered flowers can be burned by the sun just like our skin? Well, many flowers can't cope with too much direct sun exposure, resulting in the appearance of being sunburned.

'Hydrangeas grow natively in woodland settings where they receive partial or dappled shade. Too much sun can cause hydrangea flowers to turn brown,' explains Janet.

Similar to leaf scorch, delicate petals can also be scorched by the combination of too much sun and a lack of water. If your hydrangeas in pots are currently in a sunny position where they're turning brown, it's a good idea to consider moving them.

'Hydrangea shrubs perform and flower best in a location that receives morning sun and some afternoon shade. Move affected plants to a shadier site if they are not too large,' suggests Janet. 'You can also use a shade cloth or grow a tree nearby to provide some shade.'

If your hydrangeas are not able to be moved, there are lots of ways you can create more garden shade for them. As Janet mentions, you could grow trees to cast shade over your hydrangeas or use this shade cloth from Amazon on particularly sunny days.

3. They're under too much heat

This common cause goes hand-in-hand with your hydrangeas being exposed to too much sunlight. These spectacular blooms are native to Asia and the Americas and grow in cool woodland settings. Too much heat, therefore, can damage their flowers.

'All blooming plants need good light to spur the floral buds, but hydrangeas can easily get stressed if too hot from too much direct sunlight, so be mindful of how much full sun they receive,' says flower expert and vice president of procurement at 1-800-Flowers, Kevin Cochran.

'Even if hydrangeas receive adequate water and shade, the flowers can still turn brown if temperatures are too hot,' says Janet. 'If you live in a warmer climate, choose more heat-tolerant hydrangea varieties such as oakleaf hydrangea, or substitute with other more heat tolerant plants such as butterfly bush, chaste tree or crepe myrtle,' she suggests.

The good news is there are so many wonderful hydrangea varieties that can cope with higher temperatures, like this oakleaf hydrangea from Nature Hills. You can, as Janet suggests, also look into drought-tolerant plants as alternatives if you live in a hotter climate.

Always research the US hardiness zone of a hydrangea variety before you try to grow it in your yard.

4. They're being attacked by pests

If you maintain a consistent water level for your hydrangeas and keep them out of direct sunlight, but the flowers are still turning brown, pests might just be the problem. Pests are something every gardener has to deal with and not catching them quickly is a common pest control mistake that can cause your plants more harm.

'Aphids and spider mites are insects that commonly attack hydrangeas and cause damage to leaves, floral blooms and plant stems,' says Kevin. 'These insects will cause the plant to wilt.'

Spider mites are tiny red spiders that feed on plant matter. Signs your hydrangea has spider mites include spider webs over leaves and blooms, and a grainy residue. It's best to get rid of spider mites as quickly as possible so they don't spread over your whole hydrangea. There are lots of ways to do this, including using a soap solution.

Likewise, aphids are sap-sucking insects that can leave plants weak and discolored. A sign your hydrangea has aphids is the sticky substance they leave behind. There are plenty of ways to get rid of aphids and you can even make your own DIY aphid spray as a solution.

Whenever dealing with pests of any kind, the first thing you need to do is isolate the infected plant so pests don't spread.

5. Their blooms are spent

Of course, your hydrangea flowers may have also turned brown because they are spent and have come to the end of their flowering season towards fall. This isn't a reason to be alarmed, but you must take the time to prepare your hydrangea plants for winter so they can bloom again in spring.

'Hydrangea flowers naturally turn brown over time, similar to how other flowers age. This is a normal part of their lifecycle,' says plant expert Evan Torchio from Tree Menders. 'While some varieties can produce new flowers, most hydrangeas will focus on root and bud development as their blooms decline.'

As well as deadheading and removing spent hydrangea blooms, you should also prune hydrangeas at the end of summer. This is an opportunity to remove any dead and damaged flowers and stems so your plant can focus on new growth for the next season.

Take the time to read up on how to prune hydrangeas so you don't make common pruning mistakes and hinder new growth, and always use sharp essential gardening tools like these pruning shears from Amazon.

FAQs

How do I revive a brown hydrangea?

If your hydrangea has turned brown before it's meant to, for example, due to incorrect watering or too much sun exposure, it's a good idea to do some pruning to bring it back to health. You should remove any damaged blooms, stems and foliage with pruning shears. Depending on the cause of the brown flowers, you should then adjust the growing conditions of your hydrangea plant to avoid more flowers turning brown. This could mean improving your watering regime or moving your hydrangea to a shadier spot out of direct sunlight.

While you won't be able to turn a brown hydrangea flower colorful again, it's still important to take action when you see flowers turning brown before they're meant to. It's also worth checking surrounding plants for similar symptoms to ensure there isn't a wider problem in your backyard. The causes listed here could also be the reason your hydrangea isn't blooming, so adjusting growing conditions accordingly can help give this cottage garden plant a boost.

Hydrangeas are classic garden shrubs, renowned for producing large flowerheads - or panicles - which are long-lasting and brilliantly colorful. Whether grown in containers or borders, hydrangeas can help to add height and structure to any space, often considered some of the most reliable and versatile shrubs worldwide.

Native to Asia and the Americas, there are over 80 known species of hydrangeas, meaning that there is a hydrangea suited to almost any situation. For example, if you are looking for flowering shrubs for full sun, Hydrangea macrophylla is a reliable and heat-tolerant pom-pom species grown in many yards across the country. For those with small, shady gardens, the climbing hydrangea, Hydrangea anomala, is a superb option for growing vertically. Whatever the space, there will be a hydrangea you can grow.

I worked as a professional gardener for several years and have grown many of the best hydrangea varieties. When working in Tuscany, one species stood out for its ability to handle the searing sunshine better than most others. Native to the United States, the oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia, is the most resilient species I have grown. Here, I share everything I know about this tough and impressive shrub.

The oakleaf hydrangea can handle long, hot summers

With a changing climate and unpredictable weather, choosing to grow resilient and tough plants is important. While there are many different native plants to choose from, the oakleaf hydrangea thrives in hot summer weather with little help or assistance. You can even find Oakleaf hydrangeas available from Amazon.

Oakleaf hydrangeas can tolerate sun and shade

Growing best in US hardiness zone 5 to US hardiness zone 10, the oakleaf hydrangea is native to southern states across the US, including Florida, Georgia and Louisiana. It is typically found growing along riverbanks or at the edge of woodlands.

This versatile shrub can be grown in both sun and shade, tolerating a whole range of conditions. I have seen the oakleaf hydrangea blooming in a dark and shady border, with white panicles of attractive blooms sparkling in a woodland garden. I have also grown this species in a sun-baked garden in central Italy, tolerating the summer heat and producing a bounty of brilliant blooms despite the challenging circumstances. Whatever the weather, this hydrangea adapts.

While most guides and gardeners would advise planting the oakleaf hydrangea in partial shade, this shrub can handle the heat because of the thick oak-shaped leaves that conserve water. This evolutionary adaption has helped the plant to thrive in its native habitat all across the US.

For those gardeners wondering whether hydrangeas are drought-tolerant, the oakleaf hydrangea is certainly far more resilient in dry weather than most other species. During the high heat of summer, however, when temperatures soar, oakleaf hydrangeas will benefit from infrequent but deep watering. It is preferable to soak the base of the plant with several cans of water once a week instead of watering everyday with small amounts that will evaporate from the soil surface.

Oakleaf hydrangea varieties

One of my favorite oakleaf hydrangea varieties to grow is Hydrangea quercifolia 'snow queen', available from Nature Hills. If you are considering landscaping with hydrangeas, 'snow queen' is an ideal selection, offering both height and structure at the back of the border or when planted as a hedge. The panicles are also impressive, flowering until late summer before turning brown. Do not cut these faded blooms, however, as the brown flowers provide interest and structure in the fall and winter garden.

With brilliant white blooms, this weather-resistant variety will tolerate full sun and deep shade. I have grown this variety in 3 different gardens and found it best suited to the back or middle of the garden border, eventually reaching 6 or 7 feet in height.

For smaller yards or for a shrub to grow at the front of the garden border, consider growing either 'munchkin' or 'pee wee', available to order online from Amazon. Both of these varieties are ideal for smaller spaces, growing to only 3 or 4 feet tall. As with most other oakleaf hydrangeas, these dwarf varieties can handle summer heat and direct sun.

If you need any more convincing to grow this shrub, one bonus of growing oakleaf hydrangeas is the foliage color in the fall. Come October and November, the oak-shaped leaves will turn purple, orange or red, transforming backyards with splashes of brilliant fall colors.

FAQs

Can I grow an oakleaf hydrangea in a pot?

Oakleaf hydrangeas tend to struggle when grown in pots. They prefer growing in borders where their roots can spread freely. While it is not impossible, it is more challenging to grow this shrub in a container. For pot displays, why not grow a different hydrangea more suited to pot growing, such as the popular Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight', which produces brilliant green-white blooms?

Oakleaf hydrangeas are tough and resilient shrubs to grow in any yard. Whether you have a sunny or shady plot, these versatile plants will add color and impact. For more oakleaf hydrangea information, see our guide on when to prune an oakleaf hydrangea, to keep your shrubs in good shape this year.

While dahlias and marigolds may take center stage during the summer months, there is one flower we can't get enough of lately. Never short on whimsy and volume, hydrangeas remain a beloved bloom through the seasons. Their pastel hues and delicate petals make for staple garden flowers, as well as stunning additions to any table bouquet.

As far as the former, we are feeling inspired by none other than Martha Stewart's array of these fantastic flowers. 'My hydrangea border is flourishing with beautiful mophead, lace cap, and panicle blooms in shades of blue, purple, and pink,' she states in the caption.

The vibrant and bountiful selection has got us thinking about planting and caring for hydrangeas of our own. So, we got some insight from a gardening expert about the best way to plant these precious, Stewart-approved fleurs.

Whether a seasoned gardener or working on a green thumb, the good news is that hydrangeas are a simple

'Learning how to grow hydrangeas is relatively straightforward, and these popular summer-flowering shrubs are often considered one of the easiest plants to grow,' Gardens content editor at Homes & Gardens, Thom Rutter states. 'So, if you are a beginner gardener, growing hydrangeas might be a good option as you learn the ropes.'

The size and color range are also noteworthy, with many favoring their lush petals and vibrant hues.

He continues, 'As Martha Stewart shows, hydrangeas are renowned for their big and beautiful blooms that can range in color from white to pink to blue.'

All year-round care is crucial to the survival of hydrangeas. As such, Rutter says that exposing them to some sunlight is highly beneficial to their growth.

'Generally, I find that hydrangeas are very tolerant plants, able to grow in full sun or part shade,' Rutter explains. 'They prefer free-draining but moist soil, so applying mulch to your borders every fall is a good idea to improve the quality and moisture retention of the soil in your yard.'

The second part of care is maintenance, and hydrangeas are flowers that require some fertilization to keep up their beautiful appearance as well as keep them healthy.

'To keep your hydrangeas blooming for longer, learning when to fertilize hydrangeas is crucial,' he says. 'During the growing season, I would suggest applying a balanced fertilizer once a month, which will help your plant to thrive. Be sure to use a bloom booster fertilizer, available from Amazon, that will encourage the plant to produce more flowers.'

Hydrangea starter plants are available to purchase from Walmart below.

Beautiful, easy to care for, and a staple through the seasons, hydrangeas are a no-brainer to spruce up any garden. 'If you are seeking flower bed ideas this summer, why not give hydrangeas a try?'

Plus, as Stewart notes in her caption, her garden is 'ever-evolving,' so while we currently love her hydrangeas, we wait with anticipation to see what she fills her space with next.

Q: I love hydrangeas and have a few in my yard, both in flowerbeds and in containers on the patio. Is it possible to grow them as indoor plants, too?

A: 'Indoor' hydrangeas, sometimes referred to as 'florist' or 'gift' hydrangeas, are bred to grow and bloom indoors and are less hardy than landscape hydrangeas, says Jessica Mercer of Plant Addicts. They are available in many box stores and grocery stores in the spring, she continues, and often come with generic labels excluding the cultivar name and detailed planting instructions. 

'These plants can be grown successfully indoors for the summer, but are challenging to maintain longer than that,' Jessica says. However, they are a lovely way to brighten your interior for a few months, especially if you stick to the following advice when caring for them.

How to care for hydrangeas indoors, according to plant experts

While hydrangeas aren't the most traditional flowering houseplant, their big, blousy blooms make them a pretty addition to any space.

1. Water them regularly

Once you've bought your hydrangea home, Jessica says the first step is to remove any foil or plastic wrapping from the plant and check to see if the pot has drainage holes. 'If it does not, repot the plant in a container with bottom drainage, using high-quality potting soil or compost. The pot should be a few inches wider than the rootball.'

When it comes to watering these indoor plants, Amy Enfield of ScottsMiracle-Gro recommends hydrating your hydrangea thoroughly whenever the top one to two inches of soil are dry. The flowers will begin to droop when your plant needs a drink, she notes.

Once flowers appear, Jessica recommends fertilizing your hydrangea every week or two with a dilute liquid feed as part of a watering session. 'Once the blooms fade, decrease feedings to once a month until fall.'

Speaking of moisture, these plants like high humidity, as Julia Omelchenko from Plantum points out. She recommends misting the leaves daily, using soft, warm water, avoiding the flowers. 'Other than misting, you can place an air humidifier near the plant and run it for a few hours daily,' she adds. She also underlines the importance of protecting these plants from central heating, as this dries out the air around them and can damage the leaves.

2. Provide bright but indirect light

Amy says, 'Outdoors, hydrangeas are known for being lovers of partial shade; however, indoors they need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive.' Direct sunlight can burn both the flowers and leaves, she warns.

Jessica recommends setting the plant back a few feet from a southern window, so the light is less intense but continuous. Alternatively, you can use sheer curtains to diffuse the light if necessary, points out Kayla Gajdascz, the owner of Mental Houseplants. On the other hand, if natural light isn't sufficient, she recommends using a grow light. We like the look of this LED light from Sansi at Amazon, which clips directly onto plant pots and includes a timer.

You'll also need to keep an eye on the temperature around your indoor hydrangea. Kayla recommends maintaining it between 60–70° Fahrenheit. 

3. Prune when needed

Indoor hydrangeas don't require extensive pruning to grow well, Jessica says. However, she notes that faded blooms may become unsightly, and can be snipped off with a pair of pruning shears or garden scissors. 

Need a tool for the job? The Fiskars bypass pruners from Amazon are very well-rated and will come in handy for pruning succulents and other indoor plants, too. Don't forget to ensure your shears are sharp and clean before you make your cuts, to prevent damaging the plants.

FAQs

What pests can indoor hydrangeas suffer from?

Amy recommends keeping an eye out for common indoor plant pests such as aphids, spider mites, and mealybugs. 'Inspect your hydrangea regularly for signs of infestation, like yellowing leaves, sticky residue or webbing. If pests are present, treat them promptly with insecticidal soap, following the instructions on the product label.'

Bonide's insecticidal soap, available from Amazon, is a popular pick.

How long will an indoor hydrangea last for?

Jessica says indoor hydrangeas typically struggle at the end of the summer season, and that many people discard them at this point, like poinsettias. 

'However, they can be overwintered successfully if given a period of cold dormancy,' she points out. 'Helping them go dormant is tricky because florist hydrangeas are typically only hardy down to zone 7 or 8. They need to be exposed to cold temperatures, but not too cold. 

'Ideally, they should be stored in a frost-free space with temperatures around 45º Fahrenheit,' she says. 'In climates with mild winters, they can be planted in the ground outdoors. Reduce watering frequency during the dormancy period, providing just enough water so the soil does not completely dry out. When temperatures begin to rise in the spring, move the plant to a warmer space and increase the frequency of watering.'

If you are looking for more houseplants to grace your home with blooms, consider learning how to care for African violets or orchids, too.

From lining paths to perking up garden borders, landscaping with hydrangeas is a wonderful way to add beautiful color and eye-catching structure to your backyard. In recent years, hydrangeas have shaken off their somewhat old-fashioned image and have been reinvented as an essential flowering shrub to include in your garden design schemes.

It's easy to see why too. With so many different varieties and colors to choose from, hydrangeas are one of the most versatile shrubs around to work into your landscape design. They can be used in a multitude of ways, from star of the show to elegant supporting role in a planting combination. What's more, they have a long flowering season, and lush, textured foliage.

It doesn't matter what size of yard you have, or whether it's sunny or shady, hydrangeas can easily be worked into your backyard landscaping ideas. Here's how to get more of these stunning blooms into your outdoor space.

12 gorgeous looks for landscaping with hydrangeas

We've brought together all the inspiration you need, whether you're searching for front yard landscaping ideas to add curb appeal, or simple ways to pep up your garden with an injection of pure style.

1. Line a winding path with romantic lace cap hydrangeas

The lace cap hydrangea has a lovely, vintage feel. Its flattened flower heads have frilly edges rather than the rounded, pompom blossoms that are more usual choice to go for when learning how to grow hydrangeas. The center of each bloom features dense clusters of tiny flowers and these are surrounded by florets with larger petals.

Their growing requirements are the same. Lace caps prefer a part-sun, part-shade location, with rich, well-draining soil that's moist. A site with morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal.

Lace caps are hardy plants that work well for landscaping borders, especially if you let them flop over on to paths as a feature in your gravel garden ideas. They come in the usual range of colors to suit your scheme, which will veer towards pink or blue according to the pH of your soil type.

2. Add an attention grabbing focal point

A hot pink hydrangea such as 'Elliott's Red' or 'Magical Ruby Red', which both have massive blooms, makes an eye-catching feature potted up in a large container. If you prefer blue, white or even lime green there are plenty of other varieties to choose from too.

The joy is that if you plant a hydrangea in a pot it's moveable, so you can position it by the front door as a big and bold welcome then switch it to the patio or into a border to fill a gap as other plants come and go.

Mop-headed hydrangeas are well suited to container gardening ideas and will thrive in partial shade or sun. They will produce long-lasting clusters of flowers too, from mid summer to mid fall.

3. Introduce luminous white hydrangeas into shady spaces

Plenty of varieties of hydrangea will thrive as part of your plans for landscaping with shrubs. They may not be covered in as many blooms due to being exposed to less sunlight, but instead of a densely packed bush they develop a more floaty, airy structure that's just as pretty for landscaping purposes.

White flowers are a good choice as they add a luminous quality to gloomy spots to lift your shade garden ideas and make a focal point among dark green foliage.

'Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ is usually a bushy shrub that prefers full sun or partial shade,' says Susanna Grant author of Shade: Bloom Gardener's Guide (available on Amazon). 'In my garden, with just a few hours of afternoon light, it’s a much airier-looking plant, and I prefer it this way.'

4. Fill gaps in borders fast

The hydrangea should be your new favorite plant if you're aiming for a full look in your garden borders and don't want to wait. Reaching up to 15ft (4.5m) in height, the hydrangea grows quickly and works well as a space filler in just one summer with its leafy foliage and huge blooms.

Hydrangeas are classified as rapid growers, with some varieties growing an average of 25in (60cm) per year until they reach maturity.

They partner well with sun-loving agapanthus, as well as part-shade loving plants like astilbe, penstemons, foxgloves, hostas and ferns. Why not choose all-white flowers for an instantly co-ordinated scheme. Hydrangeas are also great for landscaping with grasses if you want a more unstructured look.

5. Use hydrangeas to transform an entrance

A hydrangea in full bloom makes a stunning welcome home as part of your front porch ideas. If you're looking to frame your front door, give your entrance personality or add curb appeal this is the plant for you. It works potted up in the porch or as a pretty detail in borders.

Hydrangeas smarten up any entryway. If you want to plant them in a container choose one that complements your home’s style and color, and make sure it’s large enough to make a statement and be seen from the street, such as the oakleaf hydrangea.

If you're adding hydrangeas to front garden borders they are good for seamlessly fitting into your landscaping and will soon look like they have been there for ever.

6. Screen a section of your plot with a climbing hydrangea

Climbing hydrangeas grow vigorously and are a quick way to cover a north-facing wall or fence to take your boundaries up a notch. New plants usually need support such as wires or trellis attached to the wall or fence until they become established so tie in new shoots to start with. They are one of the best climbing plants in terms of being low maintenance.

They grow well in sun or shade, and as well as the attractive leafy foliage the pretty flowers are a bonus. Some evergreen climbing hydrangeas such as Hydrangea seemannii and Hydrangea serratifolia offer year-round interest so put them first when it comes to landscaping with hydrangeas. But it's worth pointing out that they do need a warm, sheltered position to thrive.

7. Make hydrangeas the star of a small garden

If space is tight in a courtyard garden, terrace or rooftop, make sure the plants you choose punch above their weight and really deliver. In terms of looking good, and being long-flowering and low maintenance you can't beat landscaping with hydrangeas if you want a hard-working plant.

The lime green ones such as Hydrangea arborescens 'Lime Rickey' and Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight' add a cool contemporary edge to urban spaces, and this variety also comes in a 'Little Lime' version to suit smaller gardens.

They also work well with Corten steel pool landscaping and contemporary paved backyard ideas, and are a good choice if your garden is shady or overlooked as they thrive in partial shade too.

8. Glam up steps with symmetrical planting

If you have a split-level garden, framing the steps either side with the same plant really works a look. The idea of creating a stairway of blooms is one of our favorite landscaping with hydrangeas looks.

For stunning, deep blue blooms choose a variety like Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blue Danube' which has large, showy dinner plate sized flowerheads that are 8in (20cm) across and grow up to 39in (1m) in height so are good for garden edging ideas in a project like this.

Remember that an acidic soil will give blue flowers, whereas an alkaline soil produces pink blooms. The easiest way to acidify your soil and turn them blue is with aluminium sulphate from the garden center.

9. Use hydrangeas for repeat planting

Dot plants at repeat intervals throughout your borders to create a cohesive theme that adds a professional touch to your planting. A trick used by garden designers is to always apply the rule of three when it comes to planting shrubs, and this works particularly well if you're landscaping with hydrangeas.

Choosing just one plant of a particular variety is one of the more common landscaping mistakes. Instead, an odd number of plants (three or more) can be arranged in an irregular cluster, which looks more natural than a straight line or block shape, and results in more a more dynamic planting style.

10. Disguise a boundary

A froth of hydrangea blooms tumbling en masse over a white picket fence looks fabulous, softening the hard edges with pretty detail.

It's a way of beautifying painted wood with a vintage vibe that's straight out of Anne of Green Gables, so be sure to include it in your inexpensive landscaping ideas. It works a treat in cottage gardens too, for a truly a dreamy way of landscaping with hydrangeas.

11. Style up an alfresco dining spot

When it comes to summer lunch in the garden, if you're making the effort to pull together an elegant look that will be appreciated by your guests you definitely need hydrangeas in the mix.

If you're aiming for a more formal table setting with crisp white china and stylish glassware, choose big bloomed snowy white hydrangeas to set the scene to perfection. As well as styling up the space with large pots of them, snip a few blooms to create an additional centerpiece. Nothing beats seasonal blooms hand-picked from the garden to elevate your outdoor dining ideas.

12. Underplant trees with hydrangea ruffs

Although many varieties of hydrangea grow tall they can still be a good choice for planting under trees where they will enjoy the dappled shade. Go for a popular variety like Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' for landscaping around trees. While it can grow to 7ft (2m) after five years, it's easy to keep it contained to the height you want with regular snipping.

If you want to try this look, elegant acer are a good place to start as the finely etched leaves contrast beautifully with the mop heads of the hydrangeas.

FAQs

Are hydrangeas good for landscaping in areas prone to drought?

If you're wondering whether hydrangeas are drought tolerant, the answer is usually they are not. They are moisture-loving shrubs and do not enjoy overly arid conditions. Their ideal spot is dappled shade with moist but well-drained soil. Some hydrangeas are more drought tolerant than others, so if you live in a warmer climate but still want to try landscaping with hydrangeas, do your research and set a daily watering schedule.

There's no question that the options for landscaping with hydrangeas is incredibly varied and versatile. If you love the idea of landscaping your outdoor space with flowers, you might be interested in landscaping with roses, too.

When exploring different backyard ideas and choosing which plants to grow in your garden, it's important to take into consideration your lifestyle. For pet owners, this means making sure you have pet-friendly plants that aren't toxic and won't harm your furry companions if they get a little curious.

Unfortunately, unlike cat safe indoor plants, hydrangeas are among the mid-to-late summer flowers that are toxic to cats. They contain toxins that if ingested by felines could cause illness.

There are so many hydrangea varieties to choose from and they're highly versatile - you might choose to grow hydrangeas in pots or cut them for flower arrangements - but it's important to know they have the potential to harm your cat. We've asked experts 'are hydrangeas toxic to cats?' and here's what they had to say.

Are hydrangeas toxic to cats?

The short answer is yes, hydrangeas are toxic to cats and it's important to understand the risk before choosing to plant them in your yard. But don't worry, we've asked experts what you should do if your cat has eaten a hydrangea.

What happens if your cat eats a hydrangea?

Plants that are considered unsafe for pets usually contain toxins that will make them unwell if ingested. In the case of hydrangeas, the harmful toxins are cynaogenic glyosides.

'When consumed, these compounds cause gastrointestinal disturbances,' says Dr. Aziza Glass, vet and Owner of CAWLM Veterinary Hospital. 'As cats eat the plant, the toxin is activated and can even progress into cyanide poisoning,' she adds.

All parts of the hydrangea are toxic and Dr. Glass notes it is hard to determine how many leaves and flowers need to be ingested to become toxic. In fact, dogs are also likely to become unwell from ingesting hydrangeas. 'However, cats are more prone to more severe toxicity compared to dogs due to their smaller size,' Dr. Glass explains.

Depending on the volume of the plant ingested, your cat may experience different symptoms. 'Pets may experience signs as mild as lethargy, to more severe complications like vomiting, diarrhea and overall gastrointestinal complications,' says Mary Helen Horn, pet health expert and President at ZIWI. 'If left untreated or in prolonged ingestion period, it could become fatal,' she adds.

What should you do if your cat eats a hydrangea?

Fortunately, while it isn't impossible, experts note that it is unlikely cats will experience severe symptoms from hydrangea poisoning. 

'Thankfully this severity of hydrangea poisoning is rare,' says Dr. Tony Coronado, veterinarian and Vice President of Emergency Medicine for Thrive Pet Healthcare. 

Nevertheless, it is always best to seek professional veterinary advice if you suspect your pet has ingested something they shouldn't have. 

'You should always contact a veterinarian, Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661 or the ASPCA Poison Control at 888-426-4435 as soon as possible,' Dr. Coronado says. 'Do not wait until you see signs of toxicity. Successful management of any toxin ingestion is rooted in early care and decontamination,' Dr. Coronado adds.

Discover cat-friendly flowers online

FAQs

How do you keep cats safe from hydrangeas?

Hydrangeas contain toxins that will make your cat unwell if they ingest it. The easiest way to keep your cat safe from hydrangeas is choosing not to plant them in your backyard or have them on display in your home. However, if you still want to grow these beautiful blooms you can keep your cats safe by placing a barrier around them to discourage your cat approaching the toxic plant. Alternatively, you can spray the plant with pet-safe deterring products. You can also supervise to ensure your cat doesn't nibble at your hydrangeas. Make sure to always seek veterinary advice if you think your pet has ingested toxic plants.

Are hydrangeas toxic to dogs?

Yes. Hydrangeas are toxic to all pets because they contain toxins called cynaogenic glyosides. When ingested by dogs, these toxins can cause gastrointestinal complications and your dog may experience vomiting among other symptoms. However, experts note that due to their smaller size, cats are more likely to experience hydrangea poisoning than dogs. 

As beautiful as hydrangeas are, they are unfortunately toxic to cats and you should be wary of planting them in your garden if you have a curious feline in your home. 

If you are a cat owner planning what to plant in your backyard this year, make sure to familiarize yourself with other plants that are toxic to cats to keep your furry companion safe.

If you are looking to protect your hydrangeas for spring frost, consider covering them as a defensive tactic from the cold. But beware if the cover is left on for too long and the temperatures suddenly rises, you may risk overheating your hydrangeas and cause more harm than good.

When it comes to protecting hydrangeas from spring frost, the decision to cover them is nuanced. Covering hydrangeas can offer a vital shield against sudden temperature drops that threaten to damage the tender new growth appearing in spring, and is often used as a technique for winterizing hydrangeas.

Hydrangeas vary species-wise, some species are more cold tolerant than others, but if new buds have formed this can be affected by the late spring frost and will die. It is essential, however, to use breathable, lightweight materials. This minimizes the risk of trapping moisture against the plant, which can lead to fungal diseases. Discover more from hydrangea experts about the right way to protect these stunning plants.

Should you cover hydrangeas for spring frost?

The decision to cover your hydrangeas for spring frost depends on various factors, including the severity of the frost, the stage of growth of your hydrangeas, and the specific hydrangea variety you are cultivating. Below our experts have listed some considerations to help you make an informed decision.

Frost severity: Assess the severity of the forecasted frost. If temperatures are expected to dip significantly below freezing, especially during the budding or blooming stage of your hydrangeas, it's wise to take protective measures.

Hydrangea variety: According to Lorraine Ballato, author of Success with Hydrangeas, different hydrangea varieties have varying levels of cold tolerance. Some varieties are more resilient to frost than others. For instance, panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) tend to be more cold-hardy compared to mophead hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla).

Stage of growth: Identifying the different stages of growth is important when learning how to grow hydrangeas and how to protect them from spring frost. If your hydrangeas are still in the dormant stage or have not yet started budding, they are less susceptible to frost damage. However, if they have begun to bud or bloom, they are more vulnerable and may benefit from protection.

How to cover hydrangeas during spring frosts

If you decide to cover your hydrangeas, ensure that you use appropriate materials such as frost cloth, such as this one from Amazon, burlap rolls, or even old bedsheets. 

‘Avoid using plastic, as it can trap moisture and cause more harm than good,’ says Chris Link, co-owner of Plant Addicts. ‘Erecting a simple frame around your hydrangeas can help prevent the covering from weighing down the delicate branches.’

To fit the hydrangeas, measure its height and cut four stakes of wood that are 18 inches longer. Branches or lumber are acceptable materials. Use a rubber mallet to drive the stakes into the ground. Place the stakes in the ground approximately 12 inches deep, with 6 inches sticking out above the hydrangeas.

When covering your hydrangeas, do so in the evening before the frost sets in and remove the covering during the day once temperatures rise above freezing. This allows the plants to receive adequate sunlight and airflow during daylight hours.

Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as Ribbon Organics organic compost from Amazon around the base of your hydrangeas can help regulate soil temperature and protect the roots from frost damage. Using leaf mold to mulch hydrangeas can also be beneficial, as the natural product protects roots and helps the soil to retain moisture.

FAQs

When do hydrangeas need to be cut back?

When to prune hydrangeas depends on the variety you are growing. Hydrangea species that bloom in early spring should be cut back just after they finish flowering in May or June. Those that bloom in the summer should be pruned while they are dormant in December through February. Dead wood can be removed at any time of the year.

Remember, while covering your hydrangeas can provide temporary protection from spring frosts, it's also essential to focus on long-term strategies for promoting plant health and resilience. This includes proper watering, soil management, and selecting suitable planting locations. 

Covering hydrangeas for spring frost is advisable, but doing so with the right materials and vigilance is key. Incorrect covering can do more harm than good, emphasizing the importance of expertise and care in these situations.

The Bobo hydrangea is a compact panicle hydrangea that has all the glorious features that you want from a hydrangea but in a dwarf size. If you want to grow hydrangeas but do not have lots of space, then a Bobo hydrangea offers an excellent alternative to the traditional shrubs.

It is a very hardy compact shrub, down to US hardiness zone 3, and stuns with an abundance of large white flowers in summer. Due to its smaller stature, the pruning is very simple and helps keep the hydrangea healthy and putting on a fantastic show of blooms.

As with any hydrangea pruning, it is important to understand when and how to prune Bobo hydrangea correctly. If you are considering adding these unique shrubs to your backyard ideas, or are already benefiting from the joys they offer, we take a close look at Bobo hydrangea pruning.

Tools for pruning a Bobo hydrangea 

Only a few common cutting tools should be required for pruning. Before doing any pruning, it is important to make sure your garden tools are clean and sharp. 

Pruning shears and loppers that are sharp and sterilized will make clean cuts and not risk transferring diseases around the garden. 

Cutting with blunt and dirty tools is a pruning mistake that will make pruning harder and also jeopardize the hydrangea’s long-term health.

Shop pruning tools

When to prune a Bobo hydrangea

An important part of any hydrangea pruning is understanding the variety of hydrangea you have - as not all types are trimmed at the same time of year. Knowing the type helps you avoid making a hydrangea pruning mistake that can leave you without any blooms that year. 

Bobo hydrangeas are panicle hydrangeas, like the ever-popular, but a lot larger, Limelight hydrangea, and they flower on the new wood produced that year. Panicle hydrangeas can be pruned during their dormancy period to stimulate new growth that will carry that year’s flowers.

Lorraine Ballato, hydrangea expert and author of the book ‘Success with Hydrangeas’, says that means you can prune from late fall through to early spring. However, as for the ideal time, she recommends late winter or early spring, saying: ‘The best time to prune is when you see those buds swell and begin to open to little green stubs. Then it should be safe to cut away.’

The exact time your hydrangea starts to actively grow again each year will depend on your US hardiness zone, though Lorraine recommends judging when to prune the hydrangea by keeping a close eye on the plant and heading out to prune ‘as soon as you see it bud up’. Do not wait too long into spring to prune though, as then you do risk cutting off new growth that will be carrying the buds to produce the year’s flowers.

How to prune a Bobo hydrangea

The compact Bobo hydrangea should not require lots of pruning each year and the scale of trimming you do may depend on the age of the shrub. Bobo hydrangeas tend to reach their full size within two or three years and trimming can keep it compact, healthy, and flowering profusely.

A Bobo hydrangea reaches just three feet in height and up to four feet in spread. Its compact nature means that you can gently trim it to shape the shrub, or it can tolerate harder pruning when required. 

‘How much to prune and how far down to go depends on the size of your plant and its age,’ says Lorraine Ballato. ‘If it is relatively young and small, you want to cut it back only a little. 

‘On the other hand, if it is over three years old and has gotten leggy, you can take out a third of it without worry. ‘

To prune your hydrangea, simply remove any stems that are dead, damaged, or diseased along with branches that are crossing or rubbing - as this rubbing can create entry points for hydrangea diseases. 

Following that, deadhead the hydrangea and then trim selected stems by pruning up to one-third of the branches. You can either cut back the tips of the branches to a bud or remove them down to just a few inches from the ground, depending on the shape you are aiming for.

FAQs

Can I prune a Bobo hydrangea in the fall? 

It is not recommended to prune in the fall. Lorraine Ballato, hydrangea expert, advises ‘hold off pruning’ in late fall and winter, even though the Bobo hydrangea will be dormant at that time. 

She says: ‘Winterkill will normally impact the plant so let Mother Nature do her work. If you cut prematurely and then winter does its thing, you may have a smaller plant at the start that still needs tidying up and that wouldn't give you much to work with.’

Any pruning in late summer or fall will result in the hydrangea putting out a flush of new growth that will not harden off in time for winter. Those new stems will be damaged by frosts and cold, making the shrub more susceptible to pests and diseases. 

Modern compact varieties of popular shrubs mean you can grow the likes of hydrangeas and roses in small backyards. For example, drift roses are a modern cross of miniature and ground-cover roses that grow to only two feet in height. Perfect for small gardens, or growing in containers, drift roses are easy to prune and maintain and open up opportunities for people with smaller spaces to enjoy the joys of growing roses at home.

Oakleaf hydrangeas are large-growing shrubs that do not need a lot of extensive pruning to guarantee a beautiful display of creamy white blooms in summer. However, for when the shrub does need a bit of a trim, it is important to know the right time to prune.

When it comes to hydrangea pruning, getting the timing right is imperative and a failure to get it right can mean a full year without any flowers. If you are growing hydrangeas as part of your backyard ideas, then knowing the type you have is important as you do not want to treat them all the same. 

If you have any of these fantastic shade-loving shrubs in your backyard, then we look in-depth at when to prune an oakleaf hydrangea and get some expert tips to help you trim correctly and keep your shrubs happy.

Do you need to prune oak leaf hydrangeas? 

Oakleaf hydrangeas are very low maintenance hydrangeas, but they do benefit from a bit of regular pruning to keep healthy and producing blooms. The amount of trimming is minimal and it helps to prevent the hydrangea becoming overgrown and unruly.

When is the best time to prune oak leaf hydrangeas

Many types of hydrangea are pruned in fall or late winter - for example that is the time to prune Annabelle hydrangeas and prune limelight hydrangeas among others - however that would be a pruning mistake for oakleaf hydrangeas. 

When pruning hydrangeas, the timing and method all depends on the type of hydrangea and whether it blooms on new or old wood. It is vital to know the type of hydrangea you are cutting to avoid missing out on a year’s worth of flowers.

Lorraine Ballato, hydrangea expert and author of Success with Hydrangeas, explains how oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood - the growth from the previous season. The general rule of thumb is to prune these plants after they have finished blooming in mid-to-late summer.

However, the earlier you can prune oakleaf hydrangeas in the year can be highly beneficial. It gives the shrubs the most time possible to produce growth and buds that will carry flowers the following year. 

‘The best time to prune is just after flowers and buds appear,’ says Lorraine. ‘Pruning too much later risks removing the following year’s flowers.’

If you are not bold enough to head out early as the first flowers are appearing, then waiting until after the hydrangea has flowered will give the shrub the time it needs to put on growth that will flower next year. 

Restrict the pruning for shape and size - and to deadhead hydrangeas -  to the summer months only, as heading out with the pruning shears at any other time of year will not reward you. 

Nastya Vasylchyshyna, resident botany expert at Plantum, warns: ‘Pruning it thoroughly in late winter or spring will result in removing the shoots that would form the current season's flower buds, so you'll have to wait a year for the shrub to replace them.’

The one reason you may prune oakleaf hydrangeas outside of summer is to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches you may spot during the year. As trimming these out is vital to the future health of the plant, it is fine to cut these out at any time of year. 

Any faded flowerheads that have been killed by winter frosts can also be cut off in spring after the risk of frost has passed in your US hardiness zone.

How to prune oakleaf hydrangeas

The good news is that oakleaf hydrangeas rarely need lots of pruning. It does not require intricate annual trimming and is often picked by homeowners for its size and low maintenance. 

Lorraine Ballato hails the oakleaf hydrangea as being a fantastic option as ‘an understory plant’ or a plant ‘at the edge of the garden’ - as well as being the ‘least demanding of the hydrangea options’.

She warns against trying to prune regularly in an attempt to contain the shrub at a smaller size, saying: ‘This plant can get quite big so gardener's have the urge to cut it back to restrict its growth. That won’t work too well as the plant always reverts to its genetic predisposition.’

When it comes to how to prune, it is a case of removing the three D’s (dead, diseased, or damaged wood) and any branches that are going in wayward directions, to create the desired shape.

Lorraine recommends it is often ‘best to remove branches at the base if needed’, though you can prune back to above a pair of buds to gently shape the shrub. Regularly step back to make decisions on what stems to prune and assess the overall shape of the shrub.

Always use clean and sharp garden tools, such as a pair of pruning shears and loppers, to prune hydrangeas - and sanitise tools before and after use to avoid spreading diseases from plant-to-plant around the backyard. 

Also, show caution and follow the one-third pruning rule, to never cut out more than a third of the growth at any time. Any large-scale rejuvenation of the shrub should be done over a series of years.

FAQs

Can you prune oakleaf hydrangeas in spring?

You should not prune oakleaf hydrangeas in late winter or spring as you do other hydrangeas. Only prune hydrangeas that bloom on new wood during that time of year. Pruning oakleaf hydrangeas in spring will only mean removing any shoots that would be carrying the current season’s flower buds. It will mean the hydrangea won’t bloom that year and you’ll need to wait another year for the shrub to replace those buds.

Hydrangeas are hugely-popular shade-loving plants and, thanks to newer compact types of hydrangea, it means that even people looking for small backyard ideas can grow hydrangeas in pots and get a fantastic display of summer blooms.

Annabelle hydrangeas are hugely popular flowering shrubs that tick many boxes. They are gorgeous, reliable, and need little maintenance each year. If that all sounds good to you, then you may want to know how to plant an Annabelle hydrangea in your backyard.

Also known as the smooth hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' is much-adored for the large round flower heads they produce every summer. Reaching up to 12 inches in diameter, these fantastic white blooms look stunning and can brighten up any space.

If you are inexperienced when it comes to growing hydrangeas, then picking the right spot and planting the shrub at the correct time are both going to be hugely important in ensuring they thrive. 

We hear from the experts on the best time to plant Annabelle hydrangeas and get seven key steps to follow when planting the shrubs.

The right spot for growing Annabelle hydrangeas

Annabelle hydrangeas are woodland plants that prefer to grow in part shade rather than full sun. Shade is especially important when planting and growing them in hotter regions, as they struggle with too much exposure to direct sunlight. 

Ahead of planting your Annabelle hydrangea, choose a spot in your backyard that offers dappled or part shade. Remember that the more sun the shrub will get, the more moisture it is going to need to keep it happy.

When to plant Annabelle hydrangeas

It is popular to plant hydrangeas either in the milder weather of spring or fall. These are times when the weather is cooler and the ground is easily workable. Planting at this time makes it easier to plant the shrubs and the conditions are right for them to start to establish themselves quickly. 

Lorraine Ballato, author and hydrangea expert, recommends that ‘fall is the best time to plant Annabelle and many other hydrangeas’. She says: ‘The soil is warm which will help the roots get established. Rainfall is more plentiful and the scorching summer sun has abated, which will prevent heat stress on the plant.

‘This plant flowers on new wood, so it is important to get it in the ground and well established before the late spring when it begins to form its flowers. Alternatively, you could plant Annabelle in spring when the ground has defrosted but it will take the plant longer to get established at that time of year.’

Tammy Sons from TN Nursery agrees on the best time to plant Annabelle hydrangeas as, in her experience, the shrubs really do benefit from going in the ground during the fall.

She adds: ‘Hydrangeas suffer more shock than most hardwoods and it's very stressful on fragile softwood shrubs to plant and then have to perform by growing and blooming so soon in spring after planting them. We have had very high success on fall planting.’ 

When it comes to planting hydrangeas in spring, always wait until after the last frost for your US hardiness zone. Though do not leave it too late, as the plant needs as much time as possible to establish a strong root system before the heat of summer arrives. Hydrangeas can be drought tolerant shrubs, but only once they are well established after at least a year in the ground.

How to plant Annabelle hydrangeas

Hydrangeas love a rich soil type, with lots of organic matter, that drains well. It is recommended to conduct a soil test before planting to understand the pH and nutrient make-up of the site. 

It is also advisable to check the drainage, by simply digging a hole and filling it with water to see how quickly the water drains away. The addition of compost or well-rotted manure can both improve the moisture retention and nutrient levels of the site. 

Lorraine Ballato offers seven key points to follow to help you plant Annabelle hydrangeas correctly and ensure your shrubs grow strong and healthy:

1. Dig the hole no deeper than the depth of the plant in the container, or the depth of its previous location if you are transplanting hydrangeas. This is important as being planted too deep can cause hydrangeas to not bloom.
2. The receiving hole should be a bit wider than the container/previous location so the plant’s roots can literally reach out into the surrounding soil.
3. Do not add peat moss or other amendments at planting time. That’s a change from some age-old practices. Science has shown that when we add amendments at planting time, the plant grows fine for a year or two. But when it reaches the native soil, it goes into decline as that soil composition is usually significantly different than amended backfill. 
4. Settle the plant in the hole halfway down, then water it gently. Let the water filter down. This will help remove unnecessary air pockets in the backfill. Then put the rest of the soil into the hole and water it again.
5. Use soil to create a ‘collar’ around the base of the plant a few inches out. When you irrigate the plant, this collar will allow water to puddle at the base and percolate slowly down to the roots. The collar prevents the water from running off.
6. Watch the plant closely and plan on watering the plant every few days if not sooner.
7. Top off your masterpiece with mulch to help retain moisture and keep the plant weed free. About two inches of organic mulch like shredded leaves or bark work just fine.

As well as keeping a regular eye on watering, feeding your Annabelle hydrangea with a balanced slow release fertilizer in spring and early summer going forward can be highly beneficial in promoting lots of healthy growth and an abundance of stunning blooms. An example of a good feed to use is the 360 Day Slow Release Fertilizer, available at Perfect Plants.

FAQs

Hydrangeas are one of the best shrubs for shade you can choose. If you do have a shadier corner or section of your garden, then always pick shade plants that will be happy in those conditions. There is a large selection to choose from as part of your backyard ideas that are perfectly adapted to lower light levels and can bring beauty to these often trickier areas.

Annabelle hydrangeas are adored for their large blooms and it's possible to get lots of these stunning flowers by pruning the shrub each year. Not only will trimming help give you a good display, but your hydrangea will look neat and stay in top health.

When it comes to hydrangea pruning, it is important to understand the variety you are cutting. Annabelle hydrangeas are simple to prune as they produce their flowers on new wood each year.

They do not require lots of tricky pruning and the shrubs will continue to bloom every year even without any trimming. Whether you want to keep the hydrangea tidy, or prune harder to retain a more compact shape, there are a few simple steps to follow when it comes to when and how to prune Annabelle hydrangeas.

What are Annabelle hydrangeas?

Annabelle hydrangeas (Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle')  are a hugely popular hydrangea variety that are native to the US and also known by names including smooth hydrangeas or wild hydrangeas. 

The deciduous shrub produces large and round white flower heads in summer. When you plant an Annabelle hydrangea they can grow to over six feet in height and width, but can be kept more compact through pruning.

When to prune Annabelle hydrangeas

Not all hydrangeas are pruned at the same time. The best timing depends on the variety - treating all hydrangeas the same would be a hydrangea pruning mistake that could rob you of a year’s worth of flowers. 

Annabelle hydrangeas produce blooms on new growth, which means you can keep the shrub compact and encourage new flowering stems through annual pruning. It is the same with other popular panicle hydrangea types, such as when pruning limelight hydrangeas. 

Wait until the hydrangea is dormant before doing any pruning, as cutting when the shrub is still actively growing will stimulate it to put on new growth that will be damaged by the cold winter weather. 

Lorraine Ballato, author of Success with Hydrangeas, warns that pruning before dormancy will ‘distract the plant’ from going fully dormant. While you can trim the plant at any time from late fall onwards once dormancy has started, she advises waiting until late winter or very early spring to prune.

‘Watch the plant and as soon as you see the buds starting to swell in advance of leafing out, get those pruners going,’ says Lorraine.

A dormant hydrangea will have dropped all its foliage, making it easier to prune as you can clearly see the shape and structure of the shrub. Hydrangeas left unpruned offer aesthetic benefits in a winter garden, which can also be a reason to hold off pruning until just before the new growth starts. 

The old flower heads protect the new developing buds from frosts in late winter - this can be beneficial for anyone with Annabelle hydrangeas in colder climates.

How to prune Annabelle hydrangeas

Always use clean and sharp garden tools to trim hydrangeas, it will help make clean cuts and prevent disease. Using dirty or blunt pruning shears or loppers is a pruning mistake that can harm the health of your hydrangea. It is also recommended to disinfect tools prior to pruning. 

Annabelle hydrangeas are simple to prune. Always start by removing dead, diseased, and damaged wood. Then the shrubs can be trimmed into shape by thinning out overcrowded old and tall stems and removing weak growth.

Lorraine Ballato warns of cutting Annabelle hydrangeas all the way to ground level to hard prune the shrub. She claims this is a common misconception told to gardeners and it can cause issues when the shrub regrows, so she recommends an alternative solution if you want to cut stems back harder.

‘The reason is that the plant will not be able to grow stems strong enough to hold up the flowers and they will flop as soon as the first raindrop hits them,’ says Lorraine. ‘Cutting the old stems down to about 2-3 feet will leave a nice framework to support those new stems and flowers.

‘You could make the job easy by just using a hedge trimmer at a 2-3 foot height and then removing every third stem at ground level.’

When pruning hydrangeas you must take care not to damage any developing buds in the plant’s crown that will carry the new flowering growth for the year.

FAQs

The blooms of Annabelle hydrangeas are suitable for drying to use in bouquets, or as decorations. Drying hydrangeas can be a simple technique to preserve the blooms for many years.

Limelight hydrangeas are really easy to maintain and, happily, pruning is very simple to do. It is an important gardening task that will have a positive effect on the appearance and health of the shrubs.

Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight' is a hugely popular variety of panicle hydrangea, which produces large flowers in shades of light green and white from summer through fall. Limelight hydrangeas are fairly fuss-free and can grow happily in US hardiness zones 3-9.

If you would like to grow hydrangeas as part of your backyard planting scheme, limelight varieties will reach up to eight feet in height and width. They will bloom year after year in the right location with little maintenance required, other than pruning them once a year to generate new flowering wood.

Should you prune limelight hydrangeas?

It is a very important task to prune limelight hydrangeas each year. As panicle hydrangeas flower on new wood, annual pruning will produce a flush of new stems to carry the year’s flowers. 

When to cut back limelight hydrangeas

When planning when to prune hydrangeas, it will depend on the type you are growing. In the case of limelight hydrangeas in particular, the ideal time is when the plant is dormant. At this point, there is no active growth occurring and they can better handle the stresses of pruning.

Lorraine Ballato, author of Success with Hydrangeas, explains that ‘when the plant has lost its leaves naturally it is signalling that it is dormant’. While lots of people will often prune their limelight hydrangeas in late winter or early spring, she claims, based on the fact the shrub will be dormant, then ‘pruning can be done in late fall, winter, or early spring’.

‘This is a plant that develops its flower buds on new growth. The idea is to make the cuts before the plant sets its buds for the following summer. So no amount of winter weather, temperature fluctuations, crazy pruning, or winter animal browsing can impact those flower buds. 

‘However, if you garden in a severe winter climate with temps regularly below freezing, it's best to wait until spring. Gardeners in those climates need to allow for winter kill which can reduce the size of the hydrangea naturally.’

Pruning after the plant has naturally dropped its leaves does offer various advantages. These include being able to get a better look at the shape of the plant and it also helps with access, as you can get to all the branches easily to make clean pruning cuts.

While you can prune the plant into the spring, it is beneficial to get around to cutting sooner rather than later. Pruning too late in spring risks cutting off new growth and removing that year's flower buds.

Tips for pruning limelight hydrangeas

As a general rule, any time you prune hydrangeas - which includes deadheading hydrangeas - you should use clean and sharp garden tools. This includes pruning shears and loppers that should be sanitized both before and after use. This can be done with a simple sanitizing spray, available at Amazon or in stores. As well as sharp tools ensure you make clean cuts, which the shrub will find easier to heal, clean garden tools reduce the risk of spreading diseases around the garden. 

It is often recommended to not cut off too much when pruning limelight hydrangeas. The best practice is to remember the one-third pruning rule and not remove lots more than a third of the growth to keep the plant healthy and productive. Limelight hydrangeas should be cut back by around one-third, to a maximum of one-half, of their growth. Removing this much growth will leave a strong frame of older wood that can support the new flowering growth that will appear this year.

The issue often can be that being overzealous and pruning excessively can actually reduce flowering, as the shrub will be stressed. This can mean it puts out lots of weak growth, rather than strong new branches to carry this year’s blooms - poor pruning can be a reason why a hydrangea is not blooming. 

When pruning, cut branches just above healthy buds and make your cuts at a 45-degree angle. This ensures that rainwater runs off the cut and the moisture does not sit on top of a pruning cut and causes disease.

Shop tools for pruning limelight hydrangeas

FAQs

Can I prune my limelight hydrangea in the fall?

As recommended by Lorraine Ballato, you can cut back limelight hydrangeas in the fall. However, it should be dependent on your US hardiness zone. If you live in a very cold climate with substantial winter frosts, then it is better to wait until spring. Pruning hydrangeas in fall in a location with severe winters risks the frosts getting into the pruning wounds. Cutting too early in fall would also be a pruning mistake, as the hydrangea could grow new shoots when not dormant and these would be easily damaged by the winter cold.

Should you deadhead limelight hydrangeas?

Deadheading hydrangeas is not strictly necessary when it comes to the limelight types, however, the practice can offer one major advantage. It will help tidy the shrub and the garden as faded hydrangea blooms can be seen as less visually appealing. However, some people may embrace the natural look and like the fact that old hydrangea blooms can look lovely tinged with frost as part of a winter garden.

It is worth noting that all hydrangea varieties should not be pruned in the same way. It would be a hydrangea pruning mistake to treat them all identically, as you could lose a whole year’s worth of blooms. It's wise to understand what types you grow, and whether they flower on new or old wood before pruning your hydrangeas.

The great news is learning how to dry hydrangeas shouldn't take you long. Preserving these large, blousy blooms doesn't require much effort; do it right and you'll be left with wonderfully vintage-looking dried flowers to enjoy for years to come.  

There are a few different ways to dry hydrangeas, and you can utilize the beautifully muted blooms in a variety of display ideas, from hydrangea wreaths and pom-poms to upside-down hanging bouquets. They're a stunning floral addition for weddings and table centerpieces, and can add a lovely fall feel to your outdoor décor too. 

Plus, if you've already spent the time learning how to grow hydrangeas, it's worth getting the most enjoyment you can from these beautiful blooms. 

Learn how to dry hydrangeas in water

If you already know when to plant hydrangeas, chances are you've watched them grow in your garden and observed longingly as the brightly petalled flowers fade away, wishing you could preserve them somehow. 

The good news is that although the color of hydrangeas changes to a more muted shade once dried, you'll still have a beautifully full flower blossom that remains.

The most popular method of drying hydrangeas is with water – although that might sound a little counterintuitive. Jo Lambell, founder of Beards and Daisies, explains the process: 

• Whether you grow hydrangeas in pots or in the ground, cut your hydrangeas at an angle so there's at least 12in (30cm) or so of the stem. 
• Remove the leaves from the stems and place them in a vase of water, covering about half of the stems. Though it may seem counterproductive, using water actually helps to slow down the drying process, otherwise the flowers can turn brown.
• Keep your vase somewhere cool, and out of direct sunlight as this will damage the petals.
• As the water evaporates, the flowers will begin to dry out. By the time all the water has disappeared (usually in a week or two), your hydrangeas will be perfectly dried and ready to use for whatever purpose you'd like.

How to air dry hydrangeas

If you don't fancy the water drying method detailed above, it's certainly possible to learn how to dry flowers like hydrangeas using just the air – but these can become a little more brittle than their water-dried counterparts. 

For this method, hang each individual stem upside down and secure to a line with a clothes peg or some twine. Choose a spot that's cool and doesn't receive direct sunlight, then wait a few weeks. 

Bear in mind that it's not necessary to hang them upside down though – only if you think the stems are thin enough that they might break under the weight of the flower bloom during the drying process. 

A top tip to test their readiness is to try snapping the dried stem. If it's easy to snap then your hydrangeas are fully dried out.

When to pick hydrangeas for drying

If you're planning to dry your favorite hydrangea varieties, it's best to leave the blooms on the plant until they've gone slightly past their prime. That way, their natural tendency to start drying at the end of the season works in your favor. Late summer is usually your best bet. 

There's a sweet spot, though. Picking them too early will result in their leaves shrivelling up, while leaving them too late will cause the blooms to turn brown, which won't look particularly nice when dried. 

Check in on your flowers about six weeks after they've opened. Jo Lambell tells us, 'You'll want to cut your stems when your hydrangea is just past its peak – wait until it has fully bloomed and you can see some of the petals becoming thinner and more papery. This is your time!'

FAQs

There's nothing better than prolonging the enjoyment of your garden-grown hydrangea blooms by drying them, and now is an ideal time to start picking them. Make sure you protect your plants as the weather gets colder by winterizing hydrangea, so you can enjoy their abundant flowers the following year. Plus, if you like the idea of drying flowers, you might like to know how to dry strawflowers or what the best plants for seedheads are to grow in your yard. 

Large flowerheads in an attractive range of colors make hydrangeas a popular shrub, but when these beautiful shrubs wilt, it’s not a welcome picture. Floppy plants reveal that something’s not right and needs rectifying.

These blooming shrubs can suit plenty of flower bed ideas and borders. They are easy to grow and to care for and, if you get in the know about how to grow hydrangeas, it’s not hard to keep them looking their very best. 

There are some issues, though, that can mean hydrangeas wilt and we’ve put together all the details on why this can happen and what to do if it does with expertise from gardening pros. 

6 reasons for wilting hydrangeas 

Hydrangeas are some of the best flowering shrubs you can choose for your backyard and providing you know when to plant hydrangeas as well as understand their care needs, they should thrive. If they wilt? There are generally fixes for the problems that can see them drooping and these are the details.

1. Heavy flowers

Hydrangeas have big blooms – and that’s part of the reason these shrubs are so prized by gardeners. The best hydrangea varieties include both mophead and lacecap types but it’s typically the more generous mophead flowers that can droop after heavy rainfall.

Stems that are bent can recover as the plant dries out, so providing the weather hasn’t been so severe that these have broken, this is a temporary problem and one you don’t need to take action to solve. However, do be sure to prune hydrangeas to keep them in good shape with strong stems. Crucial to this is knowing when to prune hydrangeas, depending on their type. 

If you’re planting hydrangeas in the future, it’s worth positioning them somewhere with good protection from the wind providing that location meets their other needs. 

2. Bacterial wilt

While drooping hydrangeas can often be rescued, there is a hydrangea disease that brings wilted flowers and leaves that can’t be treated and that’s bacterial wilt. It can spread rapidly, and result in the death of the plant. If your hydrangea does have this problem, it should be removed and destroyed.

But while it’s not an issue you can solve once it’s happened, you can take measures to help prevent bacterial wilt. Be sure to always use clean and sharp pruning shears for hydrangeas and sanitize tools to prevent the transfer of bacteria.

3. Lack of water

Wilting hydrangeas can be a sign that the plant needs water. ‘Underwatering can have detrimental effects on hydrangeas,’ says Susan Brandt, co-founder of Blooming Secrets. ‘Not watering these plants enough can stress them out. The plant will take the energy it needs and use it to focus on its roots, which takes its attention away from the flowers and leaves.’

The solution is to get the regime for watering hydrangeas right. ‘To determine how much water hydrangeas need, several factors come into play,’ says Susan. ‘One important consideration is the specific variety of hydrangea being grown as different varieties have varying water requirements. Another consideration is the climate and weather conditions as these factors can play a crucial role in determining hydration needs. Since hydrangeas have large leaves, they can dry out quickly when it gets warmer out. Hotter and drier climates will require more frequent watering compared to cooler and more humid environments.

‘Observing the soil moisture is a way to judge watering requirements,’ she continues. ‘Hydrangeas prefer moist but well-drained soil. One way to check if they need watering is by sticking your finger about an inch deep into the soil – if it feels dry at this depth, it’s time to water. Another indicator is leaf appearance. If leaves appear droopy or limp, it can indicate that the plant requires hydration. It is important not to overwater your plants as this can also harm hydrangeas by causing root rot or fungal diseases. When watering the plant make sure you water at the base of the plant and not the leaves.’

4. Over fertilizing

A surfeit of fertilizer could be the cause of a wilting hydrangea. ‘Too much fertilizer causes more harm than good and can lead to problems for plants,’ says H&G’s gardening expert Drew Swainston. ‘Adding too much feed can cause a rush of growth that is weak and the stem cannot support the weight, so the plant droops. 

‘The other potential reason is that too much fertilizer can actually burn the plant’s roots and inhibit its potential to take in water and nutrients, and the result can be the plant wilting from a lack of moisture.’

The remedy for this problem? Learn how and when to fertilize hydrangeas and you can put a stop to wilting and help them thrive.

5. Too much sun

Drooping can be the result of too much sun. ‘To ensure that hydrangeas thrive and avoid wilting, it is important to understand their sunlight requirements,’ explains Susan Brandt. ‘Hydrangeas need a balance of sun and shade to stay healthy and vibrant. While hydrangeas appreciate some direct sunlight, they are primarily shade-loving plants. It is best if they are exposed to morning sun or filtered sunlight for a few hours a day. This helps promote healthy growth and abundant blooms.

‘In very hot climates or during the peak of summer, it is advisable to provide them with partial shade during the hottest part of the day,’ says Susan.

6. Transplant shock

If you’ve recently moved a hydrangea to a new location in the garden – for example because it was getting too much sun (see above) – you might see the signs of transplant shock. 

‘A hydrangea could suffer from transplant shock and will show this unhappiness in the form of wilting leaves,’ says H&G’s Drew Swainston. ‘You want to try to take the root ball and lots of the surrounding soil with it to try to alleviate the risk of transplant shock. However, it is still common for plants, including hydrangeas, to look sad and droop after being moved. This is especially true if the plant is moved in hot weather.’

Don’t despair if this is why your hydrangea is wilting, however. ‘It will take them time to get accustomed to their new surroundings so water them well, keep a close eye, and they should perk up,’ says Drew. 

Get in the know about when you can transplant hydrangeas, too, to make the move successful.

Hydrangeas are typically straightforward to care for and a wilting hydrangea is often fixable. Since dry conditions can cause drooping, opt for the most drought-tolerant hydrangeas if your is a dry garden. And for plants that thrive from year to year, get savvy about how to winterize hydrangeas.

Deciding which hydrangea varieties are best for your garden can be mind-boggling. The hydrangea is America’s most popular deciduous shrub and comes in a dizzying range of shapes and tones. Their bold summer blooms (spanning delicate lacecaps and generous mopheads) come in all kinds of reds, purples, pinks, creams, greens and whites. These attractive flowering shrubs create dynamic texture even in compact beds and borders, and can even be cultivated in large containers.  

Many types of hydrangea combine a tolerant and adaptable nature with astonishing summer and fall colors. Capable of growing in hardiness zones USDA Z3-5, many have flowers that change color as they mature and become more vivid at the end of the season. When you grow hydrangeas, you will find that several varieties change color according to the lime content of the soil in which they grow. They become more blue in acid (lime-free) soils and pink in alkaline (limey) soils.

These easy-to-grow shrubs are improving all the time, and modern varieties continue to extend their versatility. As well as new tones and color combinations, several have improved shape, more attractive foliage, or a longer flowering season. These developments have added to many fine varieties, some of which have been popular for over 100 years. This selection will help you pick the perfect hydrangea for your needs.

15 lacecap and mophead hydrangea varieties for beds and borders

The best hydrangeas represent a diverse range of tones and textures from giant globes to delicate cones. As the experts at Proven Winners point out, hardier and showier varieties of these best fast growing shrubs are being developed every year. ‘Their versatility in sun to shade and their bold blooms make them must-have shrubs for every garden.’ 

If you are looking for the best hydrangeas for small spaces and containers, there is Little Quick Fire or ‘Miss Saori’, while for cooler zones you can try Pinky-Winky. Meanwhile, the Endless Summer Series and Let’s Dance Series offer excellent reblooming options. Whether you prefer panicle (PeeGee) or smooth spherical types, these mophead and lacehead hydrangea varieties are all available from a range of garden centers and online retailers.  

• Shop hydrangea at Burpee
• Shop hydrangea at Nature Hills
• Shop hydrangea at Proven Winners
• Shop hydrangea at Spring Hill Nursery

1. Hydrangea ‘Bluebird’

• Type: Lacecap (Hydrangea serrata)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 4ft
• Good for: Small gardens, good in shade

One of the best hydrangea varieties, ‘Bluebird’ is a resplendent lacecap. This classic hydrangea is ideal for small gardens as it is neat and bushy. A good option for shade, its flowers turn pink on alkaline soils. Purplish new growth gives way to slightly domed, scented mauve flowers with coppery autumn foliage. This hydrangea flowers from early summer to mid fall.

2. Hydrangea Endless Summer (‘Balimer’)

• Type: Mophead, reblooming (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 4ft
• Good for: Small gardens, low hedges

If you are looking for effective lawn edging ideas, this is one of the best hydrangeas for low hedges. It is also an excellent choice for small gardens. Endless Summer (‘Balimer’) is the first repeat-flowering mophead hydrangea. Blooming from early summer to mid fall, it is outstanding for its long season of color, now in six tones (including the first lacecap).

• Shop for Endless Summer at Nature Hills

3. Hydrangea Fairytrail Bride Snow White (‘Ushyd0405’)

• Type: Lacecap, reblooming (hydrangea hybrid)
• Hardiness: USDA Z7
• Height: 1.2m
• Good for: Containers, small garden specimen

These are amongst the most compact types of hydrangea. They make ideal options for container gardening ideas as well as small garden specimens. Flowering from early summer to fall, these lacecap hybrids are known for reblooming over a long season. Fairytrail Bride Snow White (‘Ushyd0405’) is a weeping variety with a long season of white flowers, sometimes tinted with pink. It is also listed as the garland hydrangea.

• Shop for Fairytrail Bride Cascade at Spring Hill Nursery

4. Hydrangea ‘General Viscountess of Vibraye'

• Type: Mophead (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 6ft
• Good for: A bold specimen, responds well to drying

Another of the classic hydrangea varieties, ‘General Viscountess of Vibraye’ is a stylish blue mophead. It is a beautiful option if you are interested in cottage garden plants and also responds well to drying. This bold specimen is strong growing. Its large flowerheads are packed with florets that age harmoniously to pale green. Flowering from mid-late summer, the blooms also turn pink on alkaline soils.

5. Hydrangea ‘Grandiflora’

• Type: Cone flowered (Hydrangea paniculata)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 6-12ft (depending on pruning)
• Good for: Robust and adaptable growth

These cone flowered types of hydrangea are also old favorites. The classic PeeGee hydrangeas make stunning options if you are looking for brilliant white garden ideas that flower in mid-late summer and early fall. Robust and adaptable, ‘Grandiflora’ has large cone-shaped heads of white flowers that age to deep pink and maintain their color well. 

• Shop for ‘Grandiflora’ at Walmart

6. Hydrangea Invincibelle Series

• Type: Mophead (Hydrangea arborescens)
• Hardiness: USDA Z3
• Height: 6ft
• Good for: Huge flowerheads

The huge, soft flowerheads of this dramatic mophead have been developed from the well-known ‘Annabelle’. Flowering from midsummer to fall, the Invincibelle Series with its striking blooms make ideal sensory garden plants and are also some of the best hydrangeas for cottage gardens and traditional plantings. Variations include shades from white through pinks to ruby red and green, plus yellow autumn leaf color. 

• Shop for Invincibelle Sublime at Burpee

7. Hydrangea ‘Lanarth White’

• Type: Lacecap (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 5ft
• Good for: Difficult areas where other hydrangeas struggle

As well as being one of the best shrubs for shade, ‘Lanarth White’ is amongst the finest classic hydrangea varieties if you desire pretty lacecap options. Flowering from early summer to early fall, it’s ideal for tricky spots where other hydrangeas struggle. Neat and bushy, a ring of showy white late summer florets surrounds a mass of tiny pink or blue florets.

• Shop for ‘Lanarth White’ at Hydrangeas Plus

8. Hydrangea Let’s Dance Series

• Type: Mopheads and lacecap, reblooming (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 2-3ft
• Good for: Small yards, containers

If you want to grow hydrangeas in pots, the Let’s Dance Series includes several excellent reblooming types of hydrangea. These mopheads and lacecaps, which flower from early summer to early fall, are also great for small yards and modest spaces. The 11 compact varieties, developed in Michigan’s icy winters, include rich colors and bicolors, some with exceptionally large flowerheads.

• Shop for Let’s Dance Series at Proven Winners

9. Hydrangea ‘Limelight’

• Type: Cone-shaped (Hydrangea paniculata)
• Hardiness: USDA Z3
• Height: 6ft
• Good for: Small yards, mixed borders, cutting

For anyone interested in dramatic tones, cone-shaped ‘Limelight’ is a real showstopper. These are some of the best hydrangeas if you are after vivid flower bed ideas or rich citrussy notes for mixed borders. Flowering in late summer and fall, its stout stems carry pointed lime green spikes that get richer as they age, and develop pink tints towards the end of the season. 

• Shop for ‘Limelight’ at Walmart

10. Hydrangea Little Quick Fire (‘SMHPLQF’)

• Type: Cone-shaped (Hydrangea paniculata)
• Hardiness: USDA Z3
• Height: 3ft
• Good for: Accent plants in small yards, low hedges

Little Quick Fire (‘SMHPLQF’) is one of the most unusual hydrangea varieties if you want dramatic plants for fall color and rich tones. This cone-shaped hydrangea produces a prolific show of white spikes that mature to deep pink with red highlights on red stems. Flowering from midsummer to early fall, it combines compact growth with good branching and makes an excellent accent plant in small yards.

• Shop for Little Quick Fire at Proven Winners

11. Hydrangea ‘Madame Emile Moullière’

• Type: Mophead (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 4-5ft
• Good for: Full sun, containers

Although many hydrangeas are fine in shade, this classic white mophead does best in full sun and south facing garden ideas as well as containers. Popular for over 100 years, these types of hydrangea develop pretty pink freckles as they mature. Flowering midsummer to mid-fall, ‘Madame Emile Moullière’ also features rich autumn leaf color.

12. Hydrangea ‘Miss Saori’ (H2002)

• Type: Mophead, repeat-flowering (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 3ft
• Good for: A big contribution to a small garden

Hydrangeas capable of making a big impact in a small space don’t come much more striking than ‘Miss Saori’ ('H2002'). A recent arrival, this dwarf mophead variety works equally well in a Japanese garden or traditional planting scheme. It combines dramatic double pink-edged white flowers and vibrant foliage over a long season. Blooming from early summer to mid-fall, it is one of the best hydrangeas for repeat-flowering. 

• Shop for ‘Miss Saori’ at Nature Hills

13. Hydrangea petiolaris

• Type: Lacecap (climber)
• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 12-50ft
• Good for: North-facing or shaded walls

Some of the best hydrangea varieties also make some of the best climbing plants you can grow. This lacecap climber thrives against a north-facing or shaded wall. Hydrangea petiolaris is a vigorous but slow-starting deciduous climber that works well with tall trees or tall buildings. Its large white lacecaps grow up to 10in across in early summer.

• Shop for Hydrangea petiolaris ‘Miranda’ at Hydrangeas Plus

14. Hydrangea ‘Pinky-Winky’ (‘Dvppinky’)

• Type: Cone-shaped (Hydrangea paniculata)
• Hardiness: USDA Z3
• Height: 4-8ft, depending on pruning
• Good for: Colorful impact, cold tolerance

Pinky-Winky (‘Dvppinky’) is one of the most unusual types of hydrangea. This cold-tolerant cone-shaped breed works well in creative garden color schemes and borders, and also makes a pretty specimen shrub. Flowering midsummer to fall, its large white cones of blooms turn pink from the base as the season develops, while new buds are still opening at the tips.

15. Hydrangea ‘Snowflake’ (‘Brido’)

• Type: Double-flowered lacecap (Hydrangea quercifolia)
• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 5ft
• Good for: Small yards, multi-season color

One of the best low maintenance shrubs you can grow, ‘Snowflake’ (‘Brido’) is also ideal for small yards. Flowering from late summer to early fall, this double-flowered lacecap variety is one of the best hydrangeas you can grow for multi-season color. The spikes of fragrant white flowers are unusual in that each has two or three layers of petals for a much longer lasting display which eventually takes on pink tones with rich fall color.

FAQs

To ensure that varieties such as ‘Bluebird’ develop the best blue flowers, whatever your soil types, you need to apply a simple treatment with hydrangea colorant. It’s important to make soil more acidic for the relevant types of hydrangea so you can grow blooms with the bluest tones. You can get hydrangea colorant from garden centers or mail orders. Some gardeners recommend the cheaper option of throwing a few nails around each plant. Over time, nails provide the iron needed for blue flowers.

Martha Stewart recently shared her cut hydrangea care tips with her 4.1 million Instagram followers (below), and we took notice because they are amongst our favorite summer blooms to display in vases – they do tend to wilt quickly if not cared for properly.

'Growing hydrangeas in your garden isn't just a way to enhance your home's curb appeal – the perennial flower looks great inside your house, too. Despite their beauty, hydrangeas can wilt quickly if they're cut incorrectly. Luckily, there are some things you can do to make these flowers last longer – and it all starts with knowing how and when to snip them from your garden.'

If you want to prolong the life of hydrangeas in a vase, Martha's right: how you cut them is key to their longevity. However, there are other tricks, say gardening experts, that can keep cut hydrangeas alive for longer. 

How to prolong the life of cut hydrangeas

Although hydrangeas can live for 50 years when growing in your garden, when cut, they only last a short but sweet five to nine days. Luckily there are a few ways to maintain these flowers to extend their blooms' life. Here, we list them.

1. Cut hydrangeas at the right time

'Of course, you can prune hydrangeas any time after the flower heads begin to turn brown in fall, though I tend to leave the majority of the flower heads on my plants until the spring so that I can enjoy them through winter, even though they are brown,' says Lucy Searle, Editor in Chief of Homes & Gardens and keen hydrangea-grower.

'However, timing the cutting of them for vases is important: you'll need to wait until mid-summer, perhaps July, before you cut them. Do so too early and the flowers won't be strongly formed enough to enjoy life in a vase for long.

'I would also suggest cutting your hydrangeas blooms in the morning or evening when it is when it is cooler. This too will help them to last longer in a vase.

'Only cut healthy hydrangea heads: the flowers should look bright and happy; if you cut hydrangeas that are unhealthy (look for clues such as brown spots on the hydrangea leaves) or cut hydrangeas that are not blooming, you won't get good results in a vase.'

2. Cut hydrangea stems correctly

As Martha inferred, there's a right way and a wrong way to cut hydrangea if you want them to last in a vase. First, it's important to have sharp, clean secateurs or scissors. Using dirty ones can transfer disease to your plant. We're big fans of the gonicc pruning sheers, at Amazon.

Then, choose the right place on the stem: this should be above a node (where leaves and the stem connect), far enough down from the flowers that they will can comfortably stand in your vase, and including at least two leaf groups (more on the leaves, below). 

Cut from the plant straight across the stem but then immediately cut the flower stem at a sharp angle; this will allow the plant to maximize the water it can take up in the vase. Martha's technique also involves cutting vertically through the middle of the stem to a length of a couple of inches to further increase water takeup.

Katie Couric  also recommends taking this a step further: you can hammer down the ends of the stem, essentially opening up the passage for water to get to the flowers even more.

That done, Martha recommends dipping hydrangea stem ends into alum powder, at Amazon, which will help the plant to hydrate even more efficiently. This isn't just for hydrangeas; most cut flowers can benefit from alum powder. 

3. Boost your cut hydrangeas' flower heads

Although keeping leaves on your flowers when keeping them in a vase certainly can add to the fullness of your floral arrangement, this will steal some water away from the flowers, so pruning the leaves off the stems will keep hydrangea flowers blooming for longer. 

A little-known fact about hydrangeas is that they can absorb water through their petals much more efficiently than through their stems, something that most plants can't do. So what does this mean? Well, when your hydrangeas are starting to turn, place them upside down in a bowl of water to allow the petals to drink up the water. If left overnight, hydrangeas can appear completely revived by the morning. This trick can drastically change their appearance.

You can also mist your cut hydrangeas flowers regularly, which is particularly important on hotter days when water is more quickly evaporated.

FAQs

The tips above aren't exhaustive but it is worth knowing that if you have tried all of the above and your hydrangeas still wilt after a week or so, you can repeat the angled cut, the cut up the length of the stem and the application of alum powder, plus the overnight soaking or misting, and you should find you can further extend your hydrangea blooms in a vase for still more days.

Hydrangeas are a fantastic shrub for any garden, but they need to be planted in the right place to produce their beautiful blooms year-after-year. They are not highly drought-tolerant plants as their ideal spot is dappled shade with moist but well-drained soil 

Some types of hydrangea are more tolerant of dry conditions than others, however, all will need watering and this becomes more important in hot and dry weather, when they can start to wilt.

When growing hydrangeas it is likely that shrubs need to be watered at least once a week, or more in periods of very hot and dry weather and if they are in pots. Even the most drought tolerant varieties will require regular monitoring for signs of heat stress, and regular watering. 

Are hydrangeas drought tolerant?

Hydrangeas are not regarded as highly drought tolerant. Instead they are plants that prefer lots of moisture and can easily get stressed in extended dry conditions. This can potentially make hydrangeas difficult to keep happy in dry gardens, but there are variations among the different types as to how much dry they can withstand. 

Stress due to a lack of moisture can show on hydrangeas in the form of wilting leaves and blooms, and it can lead to defoliation in extreme cases. Hydrangeas prefer it cool and a semi-shady spot in the garden but do want some sun, as lack of sun can be a reason for hydrangeas not blooming. 

During dry periods they will need regular watering, at least once a week but up to every couple of days in periods of drought. Tony O’Neill, experienced gardener and author at Simplify Gardening, recommends that in dry weather hydrangeas need to be given ‘around an inch of water’ at least once a week.

He adds: ‘However, this is the bare minimum and most hydrangeas will require more frequent watering to thrive, especially in regions with hot, dry summers. Observing the plants for signs of water stress, such as wilting leaves, is crucial to ensure their health and vitality.’

Any shrubs, including hydrangeas, will become more drought tolerant once they are well-established and put out strong root systems. That means if you are planting hydrangeas or transplanting hydrangeas they will need more regular watering for their first year in the ground. If you are growing hydrangeas in pots, they will need checking regularly and potentially daily watering during hot summer days.

What are the most drought-tolerant hydrangeas?

Some hydrangeas are more drought tolerant than others, so it is advisable to do some research into the types if you are looking for a hydrangea to tolerate dry conditions. 

There are many different types of hydrangeas to choose from for your backyard ideas, with flowers of different shapes ranging from rounded clusters of mophead types to more conical blooms. While hydrangeas can be some of the best shrubs for shade, some of the types are more capable of surviving dry periods than others. 

Stephen Sullivan, the editor at Plant Native, says: ‘Among the different types of hydrangeas, the Oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) and the Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) tend to be more resilient in dry conditions compared to the Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla). 

‘The Oakleaf hydrangea, in particular, has thicker leaves that help reduce water loss and allows it to withstand drier periods.’

There are some cultivars of Hydrangea paniculata that are identified specifically as drought tolerant. One fantastic example is the variety ‘Little Quick Fire’.

FAQs

If you are looking for drought-tolerant planting ideas or inspiration for planning a dry garden, then hydrangeas are likely to not fit the bill. They are not very drought tolerant and will require regular watering. There are many other drought-tolerant shrubs that can thrive in the dry and would be far easier to maintain in those conditions than hydrangeas.

No matter what type of hydrangea you are growing, there is a long list of diseases that could potentially threaten them. Whether it be fungal or bacterial problems, all parts of the hydrangea can be hit and there is nothing that can be done but remove plants if some diseases strike.

Hydrangeas come in many species and varieties, with their large and showy flowerheads hugely popular among gardeners. They are highly versatile, easy to grow, and are great options for shady areas of the backyard. 

If you are growing hydrangeas for these reasons and more, and want to discover more about hydrangea diseases, we take a look at eight of the most common. This includes the signs to look out for, what can be done to alleviate the potential risks, and what remedies are out there if your plants succumb to any of the diseases.

How to spot hydrangea diseases

Hydrangea diseases can be classified into two groups, either fungal or bacterial. Fungal diseases are caused by spores and tend to affect the flowers and foliage. The fungal spores can be spread from plant-to-plant by the rain, wind, and also by gardeners on their tools and bodies.

Bacterial diseases can hit most of the plant’s tissues and are often spread by insects or tools. The infections are often systemic and there is no cure, so unfortunately immediate removal and disposal of infected plants is recommended. Never add diseased plant material to your home compost.

Lorraine Ballato, author of the bestselling book Success with Hydrangeas, available on Amazon, advises that ‘regular, frequent scouting is critical so you can deal with conditions at early stages to control the spread’ of hydrangea diseases.

The hydrangea expert also recommends that ‘garden sanitation is a key control method’ along with ensuring good air circulation through plants.

This includes cleaning up debris and fallen leaves along with the ‘sterilization of all tools and surfaces with disinfectants’ in order to help prevent the spread of both fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew on hydrangeas is caused by fungal pathogens and shows as white or grey powdery coatings on leaves and flowers. Affected parts of the plants may also show signs of distorted growth. 

It can be caused by poor air circulation. Correct planting of hydrangeas at good spacings in well-ventilated areas, with opportunity for airflow, can help reduce the risks of infection. Watering hydrangeas is best done at the base of the plant and avoiding overhead watering, which is an often-seen garden watering mistake, can stop the spores from being dispersed from leaves to leaves. 

You can get fungicides to treat powdery mildew that can help to manage the problem, such as Earth's Ally Disease Control Concentrate, available at Amazon.

Lorraine Ballato warns that, with all fungal diseases of hydrangeas, the problems ‘can be treated once discovered but can’t be reversed’. She adds: ‘Treatments prevent spread and are specific to each disease. Pathogens must make contact with treatment, ergo preventive treatments not possible.’

2. Rust

Rust on hydrangeas can be a common disease and it is a fungal problem that thrives in humid conditions. The signs of rust are rusty-orange or reddish-brown spots on the underside of leaves, often along with yellowing leaves and defoliation. Rust can weaken the plant and any infected leaves need to be removed, and any fallen leaves picked up and disposed of. 

Like with many other fungal diseases, improving air circulation through proper spacing and hydrangea pruning helps combat rust. Fungicidal treatments for rust are available for control and management of the disease, such as the Garden Safe Fungicide 3 Concentrater available at Walmart.

3. Botrytis

Hydrangea botrytis blight appears as brown spots or blotches on leaves and buds. It is a disease that thrives in damp and cool conditions, threatening to reduce blooms and potentially lead to rot. 

Ensure air circulation, plant hydrangea at proper spacings and avoid overhead watering. Any infected parts of the plant need to be removed and discarded. If the problem persists, then fungicidal sprays can be applied as necessary.

4. Leaf Spot

Leaf spot is another common fungal disease that can cause irregular black spots on hydrangea leaves. The leaves can then start to turn yellow and begin to drop from the plant. Leaf spot not only diminishes the look of the hydrangea, but it weakens the overall health of the plant. Any leaves affected with spots, which can range from brown to black in color, need to be removed and disposed of. Do not use diseased leaves to make leaf mold for the yard. 

Robin Phelps, an experienced hydrangea grower and the gardening coach for Sow Many Plants, recommends: ‘To combat leaf spot, it is advisable to prune any infected foliage, improve air circulation around the plants, and avoid overhead watering. Additionally, applying fungicides labeled specifically for leaf spot control can help manage the disease and prevent its further spread.’

5. Anthracnose

Anthracnose hits hydrangeas with brown spots on hydrangea leaves and flowers, and these can grow quickly. The disease likes warm and wet conditions and spreads easily by rain or irrigation. The infected tissue will show dark lesions that start to look like a bullseye and then can die. The plant will suffer from reduced vigor and that makes it more susceptible to other pests and diseases. 

Proper drainage, good air circulation, and only watering the base of the hydrangea are all recommended. Prune and remove infected parts of plants and apply fungicidal treatment as required. Sprays made from neem oil can also be used against fungal diseases such as anthracnose, one example is the HARRIS Neem Oil Spray available at Amazon.

6. Bacterial wilt

Bacterial wilt is a disease that affects the flowers and leaves. The first sign tends to be wilted flowers and leaves and it can spread rapidly through the hydrangea and cause the entire plant to die. The bacteria that causes the problem commonly gets into the plant through wounds from pruning or damage, or in natural openings caused by insects. 

Only use clean and sharp pruning shears when pruning hydrangeas and sanitize tools to prevent the transfer of bacteria from plant-to-plant. There are no options available to treat bacterial wilt and any infected plants should be removed and destroyed to prevent the spread of the bacteria.

7. Mosaic Virus

Mosaic virus will display mosaic-like yellow patterns all over leaves and the leaf veins may also be yellow. The foliage may also be distorted and flowers can look blotchy. 

There is no cure for viral infections such as mosaic virus and infected plants need to be removed and disposed of. The virus can be transmitted through garden tools and also insects, such as aphids. 

Regular cleaning of garden tools is always recommended to reduce the risks of spreading diseases. Also, consider companion planting techniques when thinking of what to plant with hydrangeas, this can attract beneficial predators and can be one way to get rid of aphids and other potential troublesome insects in the yard.

8. Ringspot Virus

While mosaic virus displays patterns over the leaves, ringspot virus causes small yellow rings that appear on the hydrangea leaves. It is spread by pollen or by sap-sucking insects such as aphids or thrips. As well as the yellow rings, infected plants may also show signs of distorted growth and overall decline of health. 

Bryan Clayton, who has over 20 years of experience in landscaping and is the CEO of GreenPal, recommends that ‘prevention is key’ as there is no cure for viral diseases that hit hydrangeas, including ringspot virus. He again advises that best practice should be to ‘control insects and pests that can spread these viruses, and remove any infected plants’.

Hydrangeas are hugely popular plants in yards, they are one of the best shrubs for shade and can produce a fantastic show of blooms every year. You can even grow hydrangeas in pots if you do not have a lot of space. While you are doing other key tasks, including watering, fertilizing hydrangeas and deadheading hydrangeas, keep your eyes open to scout for signs of diseases on your plants. Spotting any issues early will help control the spread and could potentially save your hydrangeas.

'Sometimes less is more, but when it comes to hydrangea flowers in your garden, more is definitely more,' Martha Stewart says. And we're inclined to agree. 

Hydrangea season is underway, and the lifestyle guru has reminded us exactly why this bright and shrubby is so celebrated. The flower naturally lends itself to summer gardens of all sizes – from Martha's famous Bedford farm to smaller urban plots, wherever we may be. 

As she says, the only thing better than having hydrangeas in your garden is having an overflowing abundance of their blooms that will make an organic statement for the season ahead. And while we may already know how to grow hydrangeas – learning how to maximize their blooms is a different question. 

Here's how Martha achieves more blooms from her hydrangeas and whether our resident garden expert agrees with her steps to success. 

How to get more blooms from your hydrangeas – Martha Stewart's advice for abundant flowers this summer

'Multiply the number of bold, bright blooms on your woody hydrangea shrubs by making sure your plants have the right amount of sunlight and soil, a fertilizer designed to increase bloom quantity, and a pruning and deadheading routine that keeps them flowering all season long,' Martha says via Instagram. But what exactly does that involve? 

We asked our garden expert, Drew Swainston, to expand on her advice.

1. Finding the right lighting

Too much sunlight can cause hydrangeas to wilt, so achieving the light right is key to getting the maximum flowers. 'Hydrangeas want a spot that is not too sunny and not too shady,' Drew says. 'They want a protected and dappled spot that is protected, ideally one that is sunny in the morning and shady in the afternoon.' But we should never expose a hydrangea to full sunlight. 

'Get the spot right, and the hydrangea will reward you with lots of stunning blooms, if you bake it too much in full sun, then the number of flowers will reduce dramatically.' 

Martha does not mention watering hydrangeas in her post, but it's worth noting that we should aim to water several times per week to promote deep root growth.

2. Feeding with fertilizer

'Feed hydrangeas with a fertilizer high in phosphorus, such as this one from Amazon, which is the essential nutrient needed for developing flowers. However, feeding our plants with too much nitrogen will encourage lots of foliage growth at the expense of flowers. 

'Opt for an organic slow-release fertilizer with all essential nutrients but with a higher level of phosphorus rather than a balanced fertilizer, which won't boost flowering,' Drew says. 'A high-phosphorus fertilizer can include the likes of chicken manure or bone meal.'

3. Mastering a deadheading routine

As Martha reminds us, knowing when to prune hydrangeas and deadhead successfully is a great way to guarantee more blooms in the future. And Drew agrees. 

'Deadheading hydrangeas can give you a second set of flowers, so get out with those pruning shears right after flowering,' he says. 'Not only will your plant look neater as a result, but it will also preserve energy that can go into producing more beautiful blooms.' 

Hydrangeas are hugely popular flowering shrubs that can grow happily in pots and provide you with beautiful blooms as part of any container garden. More compact varieties mean it is possible to enjoy growing hydrangeas even if you have no ground to plant them in.

To succeed with growing hydrangeas in pots there are a few key parameters you need to get right. As well as picking the right variety, you need to plant your hydrangea in a large pot and keep on top of watering and fertilizing the shrub.

When you consider growing hydrangeas in pots, make sure you can give the plant a protected and shady position and also be prepared to have to move the pot to a sheltered spot during the winter months if you live in a colder climate.

How to plant hydrangeas in pots

The best time to plant hydrangeas in pots is in spring and fall. Hydrangeas do need a large pot as they are plants that produce a large root system quickly. Choose a container that is at least 24 inches (2 feet) wide and has good drainage holes in the bottom. A hydrangea that is kept in a small-or-medium-sized container will need potting on after two-to-three years. 

John Negus, a gardening expert, advises that hydrangeas are ‘not fussy about the pH of their soil, but the soil does need to be fertile, well fed and slow to dry out’. He recommends a potting compost that has a high quantity of loam, for example the SunGro Black Gold Natural and Organic Garden Compost Blend Potting Mix available at Walmart.

However, if you are growing blue-flowered varieties of hydrangeas it is best to use ericaceous compost to ensure they keep their vibrant color. Do not reuse old garden soil in the pot as it is culpable of holding too much water, which hydrangeas do not like.

Plant the hydrangea at the same depth as it was in its nursery pot and pack around the rootball lightly, before giving the pot a good water. 

How to care for hydrangeas in a pot

Hydrangeas are one of the best shrubs for shade and like to live in dappled shade, so an ideal spot in your backyard would be where they get morning sun and are then shaded during the afternoon from hot summer sun. 

Anne Swithinbank, gardens expert, explains how, as hydrangeas originate in woodland, they are naturally sheltered from a high tree canopy and don’t like to be left open to all elements.

‘Hydrangeas generally don’t thrive well in open positions where they are more vulnerable to late-frost damage and drying winds and where, in containers, roots will be overheated in the sun,’ she says. ‘Avoid east-facing sites where morning sun shines brightly on frosted new growth in spring.’

Check regularly for when to water and give the plant regular soakings, especially during warmer periods. When watering hydrangeas, water the container at least twice a week and, when watering plants in containers, use your finger to check the moisture levels below the surface.

Any potting compost is likely to only have enough nutrients for around the first six weeks after planting. Mixing in some homemade compost or slow-release fertilizer at the time of planting can supplement this, however the hydrangea will need continual feeding.

Anne Swithinbank recommends you fertilize hydrangeas in pots with a top-dressing of mulch in spring, followed by a fortnightly feed with a high-potassium fertilizer - such as a tomato fertilizer like the Organic Healthy Grow Tomato Garden Plant Food available at Walmart – from early June until the end of flowering. She adds: ‘If you use it any later, it encourages soft growth when plants need to toughen up for winter.’

Pruning hydrangeas is an important task, whether you are growing the shrub in the ground or in a pot. A vital part of how to prune hydrangeas is to know your type, as the method can be dependent on the type of hydrangea. Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas are very popular types and the pruning is the same, to remove old flowerheads above a pair of buds. The time for when to prune hydrangeas such as these is in late winter or early spring. 

How to over winter hydrangeas in pots

Hydrangeas benefit from being protected during the colder months, especially in colder US hardiness zones when you must know how to winterize hydrangeas. The plants will benefit from extra protection, primarily as the plant’s roots can be more exposed to cold when grown in pots.

John Negus recommends: ‘Keep the plants in their pots in a sheltered part of the garden and drape them with fleece if sub-zero temperatures are forecast. Remove fleece when the temperature rises.’

Plants can be moved back out from their sheltered spots during mid-spring, once the risk of frosts has passed for your area.

Best hydrangeas for pots

The best shrubs for containers are the dwarf varieties that are available, opening up the opportunity to grow hydrangeas as part of small backyard ideas or a container garden. These more compact types of hydrangeas tend to grow up to three feet in height and can prevent issues with the shrub becoming too top-heavy in pots.

A good example of a compact hydrangea for pots is the variety ‘Bobo’ available at Fast Growing Trees. This panicle hydrangea variety grows up to 2-3 feet in height yet still produces a bumper amount of 12-inch white blooms. 

An alternative option is the ‘Invincibelle Limetta’ variety, available at Nature Hills. A dwarf version of the famous and hugely-popular ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea, ‘Invincibelle Limetta’ produces lime green flowers that age to a jade color and blooms from early summer through into fall.

FAQs

If you do not have any ground to grow hydrangeas in, then growing the shrub in pots offers a fantastic way to add some of these beautiful blooms to your yard. There is a wide range of compact hydrangeas in different colors to choose from, so there is bound to be one that suits your outdoor space. 

Show that hydrangea some love by watering it, feeding it, and protecting it, and it will repay you with stunning blooms year-after-year.

Q: I have recently bought three hydrangeas for my backyard. I plan to keep one in a pot on my patio, while the other two will be planted at the back of a large border. Do you have any tips on the best way to water them, to ensure that they thrive?

A: Hydrangeas are a brilliant backyard shrub, offering beautiful, long-lasting blooms throughout the summer and into fall. While looking after them is relatively simple, getting the moisture levels is crucial. If the soil is too dry, the foliage can quickly wilt and their floral display will dwindle.

Watering hydrangeas that are planted in the ground

'Hydrangeas are moisture lovers and luxuriate in a damp spot,' says gardening expert John Negus. However, avoid swampy areas that are prone to waterlogging. A position that's also relatively sheltered can help protect hydrangeas from drying winds.

'Ideally, before planting, work in moisture-retentive well-rotted garden compost or old, crumbly manure,' he adds – this will help to prevent the soil from drying out. Soak your hydrangea in water to hydrate the roots before planting it in the ground, then water copiously. Water frequently for several weeks afterward, to help the plant establish well. Mulching can also help to keep the roots moist.

Mature plants also need their moisture levels boosted during the growing season, especially in periods of drought. Check with your fingertip to see if the soil feels dry – if it does, it's time to water. Around once to three times a week should do the job. 

When watering hydrangeas, direct your watering can or hose towards the base of the plant, rather than at the leaves – the latter can encourage powdery mildew. Remember, too, that it's always best to water plants early in the morning. Watering later in the day, when the sun is higher in the sky, can cause faster evaporation.

'Where soils are drier, try the North American H. arborescens, usually represented by cultivar "Annabelle" [available at Nature Hills],' suggests gardening expert Anne Swithinbank. 'Large, spherical ivory-colored flower heads open from fresh green buds in summer on plants to 8ft tall.'

Watering hydrangeas in pots

'Loam-based composts hold on to moisture better than peat-based types, but all potted plants will need watering regularly unless it rains a lot every day,' says John. This is because their roots are constrained and more shallow, and their compost is covered by foliage, which blocks the rain, he explains. So, keep an eye on your potted hydrangeas – especially during hot weather.

When the soil feels dry, deeply water the compost all around the plant for an even saturation, allowing it to drain out of the bottom. Raising your pots up onto pot feet, such as these non-slip UFelice pot risers from Amazon, will prevent excess water from accumulating, which can cause root rot. Fertilizing hydrangeas in containers is also a good idea, as nutrients are quickly depleted in potting compost.

Moving the pots to a shadier spot in high temperatures can help to prevent them from drying out, advises the Royal Horticultural Society.

FAQs

There's a final tip to note when watering these flowering shrubs: if you have blue blooms, and want to keep them blue, you'll need to keep the soil as acidic as you can. This means using harvested rainwater to water them. Tap water, especially in hard water areas, is alkaline – which will turn the flowers pink.

It's easy to understand the enduring appeal of climbing hydrangeas. The abundant combination of foliage and white flowers is often used for covering specific areas of fences and, in some cases, the wall of a house. However, in Martha's case, they are used to cover tree trunks.

'I planted my first climbing hydrangeas on my farm to cover the trunks of the large sugar maples and spruce trees growing near the houses,' the lifestyle mogul says. 'In several years, the trunks were totally concealed, and they now look like what I envision the woodland did in William Henry Hudson's novel Green Mansions.'

This woodland setup looks effortless, but it does, in fact, result from years in the making. After learning how to grow hydrangeas (and prune hydrangeas) correctly, this plant can take up to 5 years before it produces any flowers. This was the case for Martha, who explains the timely process in her blog. 

'Five years ago, after a hurricane cleared off the tops of six enormous spruces by the entrance to my property, it occurred to me during cleanup that these "stumps" would be ideal climbing stakes. We planted one vine at the base of each,' Martha explains. 

Half a decade later, the vines are growing lushly around the stumps that are  6 to 7 feet wide and 20 feet high. 'All year long, they just look like huge shrubs.' And, of course, the result is beautiful.

We can't all have a yard like the one in Martha's Bedford farm, but these plants have their place (and they have a function) in homes of all sizes – as our gardening expert, Holly Crossley, explains.

'Hydrangeas are a brilliant shrub for a garden – they provide masses of blooms, they're easy to look after, and most will thrive in shadier spots,' Holly says.

'From climbing plants, such as these climbing hydrangeas at Fast Growing trees, to the classic pink or blue mopheads, like these mopheads at Perfect Plants, there are many types to choose from and one to suit every outdoor space. You can even grow compact varieties in pots.'

Plus, if you have a small garden or live in an urban setting without a green space, Holly says that you can bring their beauty inside. 'The blooms are excellent cut flowers and look just as beautiful when dried for ever-lasting displays,' she says.

'I have a glass vase of dried mopheads on a shelf in my apartment – I've had it for over a year now, and it still looks gorgeous!' We think they'd pair particularly well alongside these Amazon picks, designed by Martha, naturally. 

Q: I have recently bought a few hydrangeas for my backyard. One is for a large planter on the patio, and the others will be planted into a border, where I'm hoping they will grow into large, statement shrubs that will hide the fence behind. I haven't had these plants before, and I'm unsure whether it's necessary to fertilize them to help them thrive. If so, how should I do it, and when is the best time?

A: Hydrangeas are beautiful plants that are popular for their huge, showy blooms throughout summer. They are relatively easy to look after, too, as long as their soil is moist but well-draining. 

As with most plants, adding fertilizer can be worthwhile as it can help them grow stronger. This is especially the case with your hydrangea in a pot, and if the soil in your borders is light and not very nutrient-dense.

• Shop hydrangeas at Nature Hills
• Shop hydrangeas at Burpee

How to fertilize hydrangeas

In terms of how well they'll grow, these plants are not fussy about the pH of their soil (although it does affect the color of the flowers – acidic soils make them turn blue, while alkaline soils make them turn pink). But, the soil does need to be fertile, well fed, and slow to dry out, says John Negus, a garden expert from Homes & Gardens. Digging plenty of organic matter, such as homemade compost, into the soil before planting hydrangeas in a border will be beneficial.

When growing hydrangeas in pots, use a compost with a high proportion of loam. However, 'even the best multi-purpose composts only have enough nutrients for four to six weeks of growth, and once this is exhausted, plants will need supplementary feeding, either with a liquid or by top-dressing with controlled-release fertilizer,' John says. Plants in borders where soil is poor, or in backyards that see a lot of rainfall, can also benefit from an added feed. This is especially the case if they are showing signs of stress, such as yellowing leaves.

A general-purpose one is best for these plants: John recommends Miracle-Gro All Purpose Continuous Release Plant Food, available from Amazon. Avoid fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, as this can encourage leafy growth rather than flowers. Water the area well after applying, especially if you're using granules.

Mulching in fall is also helpful for hydrangeas, particularly if you're growing them in sandy soils. It will help to keep the roots moist, and also offers some protection against winter weather. Use organic mulches, such as homemade compost or bark chippings, which will add nutrients to the soil as they gradually decompose.

When to fertilize hydrangeas

Spring, when soil temperatures are rising, is a good time to start fertilizing your hydrangeas.

Fast-release fertilizers can usually be applied monthly from spring onwards – until the flowering on your hydrangeas finishes. If you're using a slow-release fertilizer, you should generally apply it twice annually – once in spring and then again in the summer.

However, always check the label for fertilizer application instructions as these can differ between products. You don't want to overdo it, as according to the Royal Horticultural Society (the RHS), over-fertilizing can lead to lesser flower buds. It can also make the plants more vulnerable to frost damage.

FAQs

Overall, yes, fertilizing your hydrangeas can be beneficial, but it's possible to have too much of a good thing, so follow the label closely and avoid overdoing it. And remember that feeding is just one element of looking after these flowering shrubs – pruning hydrangeas, as well as deadheading and watering, are also important for healthy and happy plants.

If you’re asking ‘should I cut back hydrangeas in the fall’ the answer depends on the type of hydrangeas in question. Hydrangeas can broadly be split into two groups: those that bloom on old growth and those that bloom on new growth. The age of the stem that sprouts the hydrangea blooms will determine whether you should cut back hydrangeas in the fall or leave them well alone during the fall months.

Once you've found out when to prune hydrangeas, it is also vital that you know how to prune hydrangeas and when to deadhead hydrangeas.

'Pruning can improve the plant’s vigor; prune ones that bloom on old growth – lacecap, mophead, and oakleaf – after flowering, and in spring or fall for ones that bloom on new growth – paniculata and arborescens,' explains garden expert Leigh Clapp.

Should I cut back hydrangeas in the fall

Whether you should cut back hydrangeas in fall, depends on the variety and when they bloom.

Varieties that bloom on the previous year’s growth – also known as old wood hydrangeas – should never be cut back in fall as this will significantly reduce the number of blooms your hydrangeas will produce the following year. In fact, it could cause your hydrangea to fail completely.

On the other hand, you should prune new wood hydrangeas in the fall before they start growing the branches that will produce the flowers.

Regardless of which style of hydrangeas you are pruning, it is important that you approach with caution. 'Wear gloves when pruning as contact with the foliage can cause skin allergies, and all parts can cause stomach upset if ingested,' says garden expert Leigh Clapp. 

Cut back new wood hydrangeas in the fall

As their name suggests, new wood hydrangeas produce flowers on the new growth. These new stems grow each spring and, as such, mean that fall is the perfect time to prune new wood hydrangeas.

New wood hydrangeas that you should cut back in the fall include:

• Panicle hydrangeas
• Smooth hydrangeas

Whether you need to prune your hydrangeas in the fall or not, they will still need some TLC before the winter weather descends, learn how to winterize hydrangeas to make sure they make it through the coldest months of the year.

How do I know if my hydrangea blooms on old or new wood?

Wondering why hydrangeas aren't blooming can be frustrating for any home gardener. You can find out if your hydrangea blooms on old or new wood by looking at the branches. If there are buds on the branch in the fall, then your hydrangea blooms on old wood and therefore should not be cut back in the fall. If there are no buds in sight after August 1, then you can cut them back any time from fall through to spring. 

Hydrangeas are fantastic for propagating. These wonderful blooming bushes make brilliant additions to any backyard with their giant flowers brightening up any space. Learning how to propagate hydrangeas can help make them more impactful still, at no cost.

Once you have learned how to grow hydrangeas, propagating hydrangeas is easy and can be done at any time in the blooming season, using the same methods as pruning hydrangeas. Given that hydrangeas very rarely produce seeds, learning how to propagate them is one of the few ways to duplicate these plants. 

Here, learn the intricacies of how to propagate hydrangeas with expert tips to keep your plants blooming. 

How to propagate hydrangeas 

'Hydrangeas are best grown through propagation due to the rarity of seeds,' says Rachel Crow, Garden Editor for Homes & Gardens. 'Their striking flowers can easily be rooted once you know how to take plant cuttings and the bushes take very well once moved outside.

'The first step is to take a cutting of a hydrangea stem that is at least four inches long,' Rachel explains. 'It is best to choose a stem that has no flowers but is new growth. To do this easily, cut the stem in early fall when these lighter green stems are fresh and only just emerging.

'Using a sharp pair of pruning shears that have been washed to ensure your plants are protected from disease, cut just below a leaf node,' continues Rachel. 'Find a leaf node that is located below a leaf cropping to help provide nutrients to your stem as it grows roots.' 

Much like when you take rose cuttings, the freshly cut stem needs to be dipped in a rooting powder or hormone to increase the chances of successfully developing a new plant. Place the coated stem into a pot of damp potting soil before covering it in a plastic bag ensuring the bag is not touching any part of the plant itself. 

How to root hydrangeas in water

Water propagation has become increasingly popular as of late, with propagating succulents predominantly using the water process over rooting in soil. 

You can propagate hydrangeas in water in a similar way to propagating hydrangeas in soil however using this method can lead to varying results. Propagating in water can lead to a weaker root system that might fail when moved into soil outside, however, this does not happen 100% of the time. 

If you want to attempt propagating hydrangeas in water, the steps are the same up until dipping the stem into rooting powder. Once coated, however, place the stem into a clear glass filled with water, ensuring that the leaves are above the water level. When using this process, make sure to clear the water every few days. 

When should you take hydrangea cuttings?

It is best to take hydrangea cuttings in the early to mid fall when the plant is developing new growth. Taking cuttings during this period will help you to distinguish the fresh growth from the older more mature growth as the stems will differ greatly in color. 

How long does it take hydrangea cuttings to root?

Hydrangea cuttings will root in around two to three weeks depending on the temperature it is kept in. To maintain a higher humidity and speed up the process of propagatio,n cover your plant with a plastic bag to maintain moisture and temperature throughout the rooting process.

We explore when to prune hydrangeas so you can keep the hydrangea plant in your garden at its best at all stages of growth.

One of the most popular flowers for the garden, with many of us looking into how to grow hydrangeas, hydrangeas produce beautiful large blooms in a palette of vivid colors, from deep pink to bright blue. 

Hydrangeas can do well in both the sun and the shade, making them a versatile and reliable choice for gardens of all shapes, sizes and locations.

When it comes to pruning hydrangeas, it all depends on what type of hydrangea you have. Any hydrangea that produces blooms from new growth will need to be pruned in late winter or early spring. Hydrangeas that bloom on old, woody growth will need to be pruned in summer after they have flowered.

When to prune hydrangeas?

Just like making note of when to plant hydrangeas and how to prune hydrangeas, keeping track of when to prune hydrangeas will ensure your plant is both healthy and looks blooming lovely.

Lorraine Ballato, author and garden writer says, 'depending on which kind of hydrangea you have, the pruning time frames are different. The key issue is to determine if your plant flowers on new wood (the buds it produces in the current season) or old wood (the buds it produced in late autumn the previous year).'

So, whether you have hydrangeas that bloom on old or new growth, or are of the ever-blooming variety, we have spoken to the experts to help you work out what time is best for pruning.

When to prune hydrangeas that produce blooms from new growth

One common question is should I cut back hydrangeas in the fall? If you have a hydrangea plant, such as an Annabelle, Limelight, Quickfire, Burgundy Lace or PeeGee, it will produce blooms from new growth, so the dead areas of the plant need to be pruned in late winter or early spring. 

Lorraine Ballato says, 'new wood plants can be pruned anytime they are dormant, that can be in late autumn, winter, and early spring - dormancy for these plants is defined as the time when they have no leaves. It is best to wait to prune until after the winter or where late spring frosts are possible, as winterkill can further reduce the size of a plant that was pruned in late autumn'. 

When to prune hydrangeas that produce blooms from old growth

However, many other hydrangea plants, such as Climbing, Oakleaf, Cityline and Mophead hydrangeas, bloom from old growth, so need to be pruned at a different time of year.

For these hydrangeas, if your prune too early, you can destroy new buds, so they need to be pruned in summer.

Lorraine Ballato states, 'old wood plants should be left alone after about August 1st. Stimulation is the exact opposite of what you want to do on old wood plants, they need to spend their energy making buds for next year, not producing stems and leaves that might not survive the winter.

You can prune old wood plants in the late spring after they have broken dormancy. At that time, you will be able to see what has survived and what has not, taking pruners to the dead wood, and/or those stems without flower buds.

Oakleaf and Climbing form their buds for next year well before August, so pruning them in the fall and beyond will necessarily remove those nascent buds. Prune them within about 3-4 weeks after they have flowered. Then hold off until the following season to make your cuts.'

When to prune ever-blooming hydrangeas

Ever-blooming hydrangeas, such as Endless Summer or Blushing Bride, produce blooms from both old and new growth. 

For these hydrangeas, the best time to prune is as soon as the blooms have faded in color, this will then allow the plant time to bud for the next year.

Similar to hydrangeas that produce blooms from new growth, garden designer, Maria Palusalu, says, 'prune the old flowers in early spring – February or March – to activate new flowers in the summertime. Prune to the bottom of the plant or cut back the old flowers.'

What happens if you don't prune hydrangeas?

Lindsey Hyland, gardening expert and creator of Urban Organic Yield says, 'premature pruning can remove flower buds and reduces bloom, whereas if you do not prune at all, dead, diseased or damaged wood will prevent new growth.'

Pruning your hydrangeas is essential if you want your plant to create a beautiful display and avoid hydrangea diseases - so ensure you know exactly what type of hydrangea plant you have and prune at the right time of year during its growth cycle.

Hydrangeas are some of the most beautiful garden shrubs with their blooms brightening up any garden with ease. But once the flowers start to fade, you may wonder what to do with them: should you cut them off, or leave them be?

Although not crucial, trimming the spent blooms from these flowering shrubs, otherwise known as deadheading, can have its benefits. 'Deadheading hydrangeas can help encourage new blooms on your plant and keep the hydrangea looking fresh and beautiful,' says Anna Eklöv, plant expert and founder of LÖV Flowers.

However, there are some dos and don'ts when carrying out this garden task – deadheading at the wrong time and in the wrong way can do more harm than good.

How to deadhead your hydrangeas

Unlike pruning hydrangeas, where you remove large parts of the plant to either shape or maintain the plant's size, or remove dead or diseased wood, deadheading involves only removing the spent flowers. By removing the dying blooms, you allow the plant to put its energy into root and bud development, rather than producing seeds. This, in turn, allows the plant to grow stronger.

Start with a pair of sharp pruning shears – such as these Gonicc ones from Amazon – and locate a dying or dead bloom. These are distinguishable by their faded, brown color and wilted appearance. 'Always use good, sharp secateurs which are disinfected regularly to prevent infection entering the cut stem,' advises Angela Slater, a gardening expert at Hayes Garden World. 

'To deadhead hydrangeas, take each flower that’s on its way out and follow the stem down to the next set of large leaves,' instructs Anna. You should see tiny buds in the crease between the stem and the leaf, she says. Cut the stem about half an inch above the new buds – removing these would stop them from developing into new flowers.

When to deadhead hydrangeas

‘Deadheading can be done either right after flowering, late winter at the end of the season, or early spring before the next season begins,’ says Rachel Crow, a garden expert from Homes & Gardens.

Deadheading your hydrangeas frequently throughout the growing season will keep the plant neat and preserve the plant's energy to create new blooms. 'If you can’t stand having the hydrangea looking past its best, all you need to do is cut off the spent blooms at the next pair of leaves down the stem,' says Angela.

However, in colder climates, it's worth keeping the final flush of flowers intact. You can deadhead throughout the blooming season, but stop deadheading the shrubs around mid to late fall, recommends Anna Eklöv of LÖV Flowers. By leaving these blooms in situ, they will help to protect the new buds beneath from winter frosts. Plus, they provide architectural interest to the winter garden.

In this case, Angela recommends that gardeners cut the heads off in late spring when there is less chance of a late sharp frost. If a cold snap is forecast when the heads have been cut off and the new shoots have appeared, just throw a sheet of horticultural fleece, an old net curtain, or an old sheet over the plant to protect the plants from frost, she adds.

Hydrangeas are backyard staple. They are versatile flowering shrubs, which have become a mainstay in many types of garden design.

Hydrangeas are fairly low maintenance, however it is important to understand how and when to prune hydrangeas correctly to get the best from them, maximize blooms and to ensure that they can survive through winter. Pruning at the wrong time is the first major pruning mistake, and can risk the health of your plant.

While learning how to grow hydrangeas is relatively simple, they can be disappointing over time if they are not correctly maintained through correct pruning and deadheading. The way that you prune your hydrangea will depend on the variety that you grow. Here we will look at the different types of hydrangea and how to prune them, and by following our expert tips, this is an easy skill to master.

What to consider before you begin pruning hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are low maintenance shrubs, and among the best flowering shrubs you can grow in your yard. Once you have identified the variety that you have, it's easy to get to grips with how to prune hydrangeas.

Some of these fast growing shrubs flower on old wood and some on new wood, so it is important to prune them the correct way so as to not detrimentally affect their flowering. It does differ depending on the variety.

Hydrangeas are either pruned in late winter or spring, or late summer for climbing types. Pruning hydrangeas in fall can leave the plants at risk of succumbing to winter frosts - the cold is capable of harming stems and buds. Pruning hydrangea that flower on old wood in fall or winter will also have a large impact on the blooms you will get the following year. This is because you’ll actually be removing the buds that would carry next year's flowers.

'The best way to prune hydrangeas, as with all pruning, should be carried out with a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears. This is to create a clean cut that is less prone to infection,' says Drew Swainston, former professional gardener and content editor at Homes & Gardens.

Any time you do pruning, it should never be underestimated how important it is to have clean and sharp garden tools. If you head out to start cutting plants with blunt or rusty tools that are covered in dried plant residue or sap, then you are putting the health of your hydrangea at risk.

'If you find that your way of pruning is not yielding good blooms or a healthy plant, you may want to change your approach,' adds Drew. 'Observe your plant through spring and summer to make sure you know whether it flowers from old or new growth.'

How to prune mophead and lacecap hydrangeas

The method for pruning mophead hydrangeas and lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) – also known as bigleaf hydrangeas – is the same.

Both these varieties should be pruned in late winter or early spring. 'By leaving the faded blooms in place over the winter, this will actually protect the new buds forming underneath from frost damage,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens.

Mophead hydrangeas are a common choice for backyards with their full, round heads of large petals in shades of blue, pink, green and white. This makes them a popular shrub choice for cottage garden ideas and they also make good shrubs for shade. Lacecap hydrangeas are identified by tiny flowers in the center of the bloom and an outer border of larger petals.

When pruning mophead hydrangeas and lacecaps in early spring, follow this method:

• Cut out one or two of the oldest, weakest stems at the base of the plant to encourage new growth and better blooms.
• Using clean and sharp pruning shears, carefully remove old flowerheads just above a pair of buds.
• Be careful not to cut off any of the flower buds.
• If the bigleaf hydrangea shrub has been neglected and has lots of overlapping, tangled branches, you can do a harder prune and cut the stems down to the base of the plant. However, the hydrangea may not bloom until the following year.

How to prune climbing hydrangeas

Climbing hydrangeas, such as Hydrangea anomola subsp. petiolaris, such as this great-value shrub from Nature Hills, Hydrangea seemannii, or H. serratifolia are pruned in summer, after flowering.

'The reason that climbing hydrangeas are pruned in summer is because the flowers are produced on the previous year's wood,' says Drew Swainston. 'If they are pruned earlier in spring, before flowering, the blooms for that year will be sacrificed.'

You can prune Hydrangea petiolaris immediately after flowering to shorten any branches growing out from the wall or support, otherwise only light pruning is required to remove dead or damaged stems.

How to prune Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens

Hydrangea Paniculata with its cone-like heads of blooms, and Hydrangea aborescens with its spherical flower heads, are also pruned in early spring.

They produce flowers on new wood, so they can be pruned back harder without sacrificing that year's flowers. Prune old branches back to the lowest pair of healthy buds near ground level for a neat framework.

You don’t actually need to prune these varieties, but you can do it to keep them from getting too tall.

Other types of hydrangea, including Hydrangea aspera and Hydrangea quercifolia, need only light pruning in spring. Simply remove dead flower heads and any crossing stems.

Top tip: By cutting stems to different heights, you’ll get flowerheads produced at different levels.

Shop hydrangea pruning essentials

FAQs

What happens if you don't prune hydrangeas?

If you don't prune hydrangeas then they can eventually resemble a tangled mass of woody stems, and the flowers will become smaller and less showy. If your hydrangeas are not blooming, lack of pruning is often a reason, which is why most expert gardeners would say this is a big hydrangea pruning mistake.

Regular pruning of hydrangeas helps to maintain their shape and also encourages new growth and a better display of blooms. It's this strong, new growth that ensures you have lots of large, healthy flowers to enjoy in the years to come.

Should you cut off dead hydrangea blooms?

Deadheading hydrangeas – or removing spent flowers from the stem to encourage better blooming later on – can be done with some hydrangeas but not all.

Dead blooms should only be removed from mophead hydrangeas after flowering in mild areas. It is better to leave the flowerheads on the plant over winter to provide some frost protection.

By leaving the dried flowers on the plant, they will provide interest in the garden through to spring, and can be a stunning sight when covered in a coating of frost. The flowers on the hardier lacecaps, however, can be deadheaded after flowering.

Hydrangeas do not need lots of pruning in order to grow well and produce fantastic flushes of flowers each year.

It is often recommended to not prune more than one-third of any plant each year. Following the one-third pruning rule can help maintain a plant’s health. Removing more growth than this can lead to unpredictable results, as the plant will be stressed and can put out lots of weak and straggly growth. A stressed shrub that is covered in pruning cuts is also at increased susceptibility to pests and diseases.

Once you're confident knowing how to prune hydrangeas, you'll be rewarded with wonderfully healthy and floriferous shrubs. There are so many ways you can grow hydrangeas, such as in pots to place on a patio or balcony, or by landscaping with hydrangeas in a larger space.

It’s not difficult to learn how to grow hydrangeas, but when can you transplant them? These resilient plants cope well with most soil types, can be grown in full sun or partial shade, and require little maintenance. However, if you transplant them at the wrong time of year you’ll risk losing these prized plants, which take a number of years to reach maturity.

Hydrangeas are such a firm favourite in our yards for their sheer variety, reliability and blowsy, long-lasting blooms. Whether grown on their own in a border, or as an informal hedge, their voluptuous flower heads provide color and texture in spades.

If you feel your hydrangea isn’t thriving in its current spot, or you would like to move it to a more prominent area of the garden, then transplanting it is an option. We look at the best time to do it depending on where you live, and how to do it safely to avoid your plants going into shock.

When can you transplant hydrangeas?

Much like the best time to plant hydrangeas, transplanting them is best done when they are dormant. In a cooler climate, this is most commonly in late fall. 'Fall is a good time to move a hydrangea because your plant will have enough time to establish its roots in its new position whilst the soil is still warm and it isn't actively growing,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens on H&G.

In warmer areas you can transplant them over winter, between December and February, as long as the ground isn’t frozen. To ensure it is dormant, wait until the flowers have died and the leaves have fallen before moving your plant.

Hydrangeas can also be successfully transplanted in spring, before the first flush of growth.

Your USDA hardiness zone will influence the best time to transplant hydrangeas during the spring. ‘For warmer zones 7-9, it’s best to move them in early spring, during March to April, but in cooler zones 4-6 the ideal time would be by mid-May,’ says Rachel. 'If you can see that your hydrangea has already started actively growing again, it is best to leave it in the ground until fall.'

How to move and replant hydrangeas?

As long as you move your hydrangeas at the right time of year, you should find they cope well with being transplanted. However, moving any plant always presents a risk of over-stressing the plant and losing it, so make sure that the new spot is suitable and offers the right conditions for your plant.

Hydrangeas like reliable moisture in the summer, so don’t plant them in a dry position.

Avoid a south-facing spot, and ensure there is some protection from frosts and shade from the blazing afternoon sun. Some species of hydrangea, such as 'Annabelle', tolerate full sun, but if yours is more sensitive, it will become stressed by drought in the summer.

Once you have chosen a good new spot, it’s important to get the ground ready before digging up the plant. In light soil, add in some organic matter before planting to help with moisture. Remove any large stones from the hole, and consider adding a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi, available from Amazon, to help the roots to establish.

If the plant is large, you may need to gently tie around its branches to make it more manageable to handle.

'Carefully use your transplant spade to gently dig around the edges of your plant at the drip line without actually digging it up. Then go deeper and start to coax the plant out of the ground. You are trying to keep as much of the rootball intact as possible,' says Lorraine Ballato, hydrangea expert and author of the book ‘Success with Hydrangeas’.

Relocate to its new spot, using a wheelbarrow or a helper if the plant is large. Place in the hole – avoiding planting the hydrangea deeper than its previous location.

Lorraine Ballato then suggests 'puddling in' your new plant: 'Put your plant into a very wet hole that has just finished draining. The hole might even have some water still in the bottom of it - with some of the backfill soil. Then water the plant and the backfill slightly to get a good muddy mix going. Tamp it slightly to remove the air pockets. Let that set for a bit, and then repeat that process until the plant is completely in the ground. It’s OK if there is a bit of water sitting at its crown that will slowly percolate down to the roots. This process not only waters the plant well, but also eliminates air pockets during and after backfilling.'

You can add mulch, such as this natural pine mulch from Amazon, to give your hydrangea extra nutrients, keep in moisture and help suppress weeds.

If you are moving the hydrangea during cooler, wetter weather, then you won't need to water often. However, in warmer weather, do not let the soil dry out, and water regularly until established.

How to avoid hydrangea transplant shock

Transplant shock is a common side effect of moving plants. The telltale signs are wilting and falling leaves, and hydrangeas not blooming. In severe cases, your plant may not recover.

'You can minimize the risk of hydrangea transplant shock by digging up as much of the root ball and surrounding soil as possible. Too much damage to the roots can prove fatal,’ says Rachel Bull.

Although knowing how to prune hydrangeas is vital, avoid pruning it at this stage as it could place too much stress on the plant.

Crucially, make sure you keep your hydrangea well watered until it settles into its new spot. Once it starts to flower, you can be confident that the hydrangea has transplanted well.

FAQs

Can you transplant hydrangeas in July?

July is not the best time of year to transplant hydrangeas, and you risk losing the plant if you try to do it. If you must move your hydrangea in July, try to make sure it’s not during a particularly hot and dry spell of weather, and keep your plant as hydrated as possible.

As the weather gets colder, discover how to winterize hydrangeas to protect them from the elements and ensure they come back healthy the following year. And always think about what to plant with hydrangeas to get the best results from your displays – there are many beautiful flower varieties that make striking companion plants.

The question of how to treat brown spots on hydrangeas is one that many gardeners may face as the flowers blossom over summer. Hydrangeas are beloved for their blue, pink and yellow-green blooms, and there is nothing quite so diminishing as premature brown spots to ruin their aesthetic.

Knowing how to grow hydrangeas correctly is among the most impactful ways you can prevent brown spots from arriving and prevent hydrangea flowers turning brown. However, infection from hydrangea diseases can still occur. Brown spots are (most frequently) caused by the fungus Cercospora that commonly exists in your soil. It usually reaches the plant through overhead watering or rainfall.

So, while you may know when to plant hydrangeas for optimum growth, it’s equally important to know how to treat brown spots if they arrive. The secret? Compost tea, say garden experts.

Treating brown spots on hydrangeas – with compost tea

Compost tea – the (homemade) liquid version of solid compost material – is an organic yet powerful way to treat brown spots on hydrangeas. So, it’s unsurprising that it’s so favored by experts. Here’s how they’re apply it.

How to make compost tea

'Compost tea is an easy-to-make natural remedy for brown spots on hydrangea leaves,' says Jason White, the CEO of All About Gardening. To do so, he recommends using an old pillowcase or a burlap bag and filling it with compost.

'This will act as your tea bag as you place it in five gallons of water and leave it to steep for three days,' he says. After this time, Jason suggests pouring the liquid into a spray bottle [such as this one on Amazon] and applying it to the brown leaf spots of your hydrangeas.

Expert Jen Stark similarly encourages gardeners to try this compost tea remedy. 'Adding compost tea to a spray bottle and spritzing it on the brown spots on your plants can help remove them,' she adds.

How does compost tea treat brown spots on hydrangeas?

How does this organic treatment fight this common problem? Jason explains that the compost tea has beneficial bacteria that will effectively fight the bacteria responsible for brown leaf spots in the hydrangeas.

And, to protect your plant further, he suggests spraying the plant with diluted liquid kelp to boost its immune system so as to prevent the spots from recurring.

Why do my hydrangeas have brown spots on the leaves?

As the experts suggest, the most common cause of brown spots is the fungus Cercospora. However, certified master gardener, Gabriel J. Croteau suggests the problem could be down to its general growing conditions, too.

'Hydrangeas need full sun to grow well and bloom. If the plant has been growing in the shade or partial shade, then you should move it into a sunnier spot,' he says. Therefore, when considering where to grow your flowers, and what to plant with hydrangeas, it is important to choose a spot that receives lots of sunlight.

'Using compost tea is an accessible way to treat brown spots quickly and effectively,' adds H&G's garden expert, Rachel Crow. 'If you face these spots – whether from Cercospora or lack of sunlight – this trick will cure your plants back to health. The only thing left to know is how to prune hydrangeas to extend their lives further.'

Wondering why hydrangeas aren't blooming can be frustrating for any home gardener. Hydrangeas are one of summer's most anticipated blooms, and having one that doesn't flower is disappointing.

'I always know it's July because people start calling us and asking why their hydrangeas aren't blooming,' says Jeanine Standard of Proven Winners, a leading flower and plant brand in the U.S.

The causes are as varied as the hydrangea varieties themselves, and range from not knowing how to care for hydrangeas or how to prune hydrangeas, to predatory deer, to certain climate causes and more. To help you get to the root of your hydrangea woes, we've rounded up advice from top garden experts, below. 

Why won't my hydrangeas bloom? 

There are two common, basic reasons that hydrangeas don't bloom: Lack of sun, and lack of time. Before you dig deeper into your investigation, rule out that one of these two issue isn't your culprit. 

'There's no such thing as a hydrangea that likes shade,' says Standard.

Hydrangeas can do well in part-sun, but require at least 4-6 hours of direct sun exposure, and another 4-6 hours of indirect sun exposure per day.

The second common reason hydrangeas don't bloom is time. 'A lot of people want instant gratification for a garden, and that doesn't happen. It takes perennials years to reach maturity,' says Standard. Depending on the type of hydrangea you have, it can take 2-5 years to bloom after it's planted.

If your hydrangea gets plenty of sun, and it's at least a few years old, it's time to look further into the reason it isn't blooming.

Why different types of hydrangeas don't bloom

The next step in figuring out why your hydrangeas aren't blooming is knowing which type of hydrangea you have. 

Different types of hydrangeas are susceptible to different environmental factors. Knowing your type will help you not only to diagnose what's going on with your hydrangeas this year, but keep them healthy so they bloom next year, too. 

There are six common types of hydrangeas:

• Big leaf
• Panicle
• Smooth
• Climbing
• Mountain
• Oakleaf

Each of these varieties falls into one of three categories: flowers that bloom on old wood, flowers that bloom on new wood, or flowers that bloom on both, also known as reblooming/remontant hydrangeas. Knowing which type you have is the first step in diagnosing the problem with your hydrangeas, since they're susceptible to different variables.

Do also consider what to plant with hydrangeas. Knowing how to successfully mix different plants is an important part of learning how to grow hydrangeas. And, of course, companion planting, can be beneficial for every plant in the mix.

Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood

Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood include mountain, Oakleaf, climbing and Big Leaf varieties. These hydrangeas flower on plant growth that was created last year. This means that a lack of blooms this year might be from something that happened to the plant last year.

The most common reasons these hydrangeas do not bloom are:

Climate

If you live in a cold climate, your plants may have been damaged by frost. Typically, hydrangeas are damaged during springtime temperature swings. For example, if you have a heat wave one day, followed by a frost a few days later. 

'There are many things that can negatively affect a hydrangea that blooms only on old wood,' says Natalie Carmolli of Spring Meadow Nursery, Inc., a flowering shrub grower in Grand Haven, Michigan. 'First a foremost, weather. These hydrangeas form the buds for next year’s flowers in the previous summer after they’ve finished blooming. All winter they have a nice, hard protective shell that keeps the buds safe. But if you have a warmup in late winter or early spring, that outer shell will start to soften, so the bud can emerge. If you get another cold snap or hard frost, those buds will now freeze and die. That means no flowers.'

To prevent this in the future, cover hydrangeas during any spring freezes.

Pruning 

Old wood hydrangeas should not be pruned, because you'll clip off any new buds. If you pruned your hydrangeas last year, they will not bloom this year. Leave them be this year and wait for next year's blooms.

'Improper pruning can also cause no flowers on this type [of hydrangea]' says Carmolli. 'When in doubt, don’t prune!'

Deer

Another reason hydrangeas don't bloom is because deer eat them. This affects all types of hydrangeas, and can be a harder factor to control, but there are some things you can do each year to try and steer the deer away from your bushes.

'You can try applying a deer deterrent spray every other evening early in the season, before they establish their feeding patterns,' says Carmolli. 'Deer are generally creatures of habit, and if you can teach them early to avoid your hydrangeas, they are more like to avoid them all season. That said, when deer are truly hungry, there’s no telling what rules they may break.'

Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood

Hydrangeas that bloom on new wood include Panicle and Smooth hydrangeas. They flower on growth created this year, which means that even if they get damaged there's a chance they might still bloom this year with a little TLC. Panicle hydrangeas are considered among the easiest to grow because they're adaptable and flower more reliably than other varieties. 

Still, like old wood hydrangeas, new wood hydrangeas are susceptible to springtime temperature swings, which can damage buds and cause fewer flowers, or later blooming than in an average year. They can also be eaten by deer, and learning how to prune and when to plant hydrangeas can also ensure yours bloom every year. Also, once you know how to winterize hydrangeas, you can protect your prized shrubs from the elements and enjoy their glorious blooms returning year after year.

But, if your Panicle or other new wood hydrangea isn't blooming, it's likely not getting enough light, says Carmolli. Panicle hydrangeas will bloom best when they get 4+ hours of full sun per day.

That, or it's just too young. 'Give new hydrangeas about three years to develop a strong root system, which will help encourage bloom. There is a term called sleep (year one), creep (year two), leap (year three), when it comes to getting a plant’s roots established so it can perform optimally,' she says.

Reblooming hydrangeas 

Reblooming hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood, and include the popular Big Leaf varieties, pictured above. 

'Remontant hydrangeas bloom on both old and new wood, so even if the old wood blooms are damaged, the new wood buds, which are formed in the same season, will still bloom,' says Carmolli. 'That bloom may be delayed, but as long as they aren’t browsed by deer or pruned away [they can still bloom]. Keep in mind, some rebloomers bloom on new wood faster than others. Our Let’s Dance® series of bigleaf hydrangeas were bread to rebloom sooner than conventional rebloomers.'

Although they can tolerate some shade, too much can also affect bloom. 

Can you make a non blooming hydrangea bloom this year?

Again, whether your hydrangea will bloom this year will depend on the type. If it's an old wood hydrangea, unless it’s just a little later to bloom than you planned, you'll have to wait until next year for flowers. 

'Getting your hydrangea to bloom well is a long game,' says Carmolli. 'You can help it out by making sure it isn’t stressed from lack of water - water deeply 2-3 times a week instead of a little bit each day. Add a day if it’s hotter.'

She also suggests adding 2-3” layer of mulch around the plant to help keep roots cool and conserve moisture, and making sure your hydrangeas are in an area where they’ll get at least five hours of sun a day.

Finally, 'take care to cover tender buds in early spring with a sheet or light tarp, and practice proper pruning for the best flower display,' she says. 

What to feed hydrangeas to make them bloom

'A good shrub fertilizer, like one that’s developed for roses, will help your entire hydrangea grow more vigorously. But there isn’t something that you can feed it that will specifically force new buds,' says Carmolli. 'Fertilize early in the spring, and again in late spring according to package directions. Don’t fertilize after July, or your plant will just push new foliage growth (not extra flowers) that will not have time to harden off when your plant should be going dormant in the fall.' 

If you are wondering how to grow hydrangeas, you are not alone because these hardy shrubs that flower from mid-summer to fall have seen a real resurgence in popularity over the past decade.  

Flowering shrubs are again championed and valued for their use in flower bed ideas, with hydrangeas a clear favorite for their sheer variety, reliability and large blooms ranging from cream and pink to bold blues, reds and purples. 

Hydrangeas are brilliant for bringing bursts of summer color to the garden, plus they make a lovely cut flower. They are easy to grow, are tolerant of most soils, including clay, grow in sun or semi-shade, can be planted in borders or containers and require little maintenance. So what's not to love about them?

Once you know when to plant hydrangeas and how to grow them, you will be able to enjoy the blooms of these shrubby stalwarts from July into October.

How to grow hydrangeas – the different types

The first thing to consider when learning how to grow hydrangeas is which type you want to grow, as there are two main types: shrubby and climbing.

Shrubby hydrangeas – blooming from around July – September, shrubby hydrangeas are among the flowering shrubs that are great for adding mid to late-summer color and structure to garden borders, but can also be grown in pots. 

They are characterized by their large flower heads, which can either be domed or flattened in form. The domed ‘mophead’ hydrangeas consist of many tightly packed flower while the flattened ‘lacecap’ types have rings of large, pointed petals surrounding a cluster of tiny flowers.

The important thing to note about the mophead variety of hydrangea is that the colour of the flowers will vary according to the pH of your soil. The plant can have pink flowers in alkaline soil, red flowers in neutral soils and blue flowers in acid soils. It is possible to control the color of the blooms by adjusting the pH of the soi. 

Climbing hydrangeas – like shrubby hydrangeas, climbing hydrangeas do not mind semi-shade so are good choices as shrubs for shade, for growing up east and north-facing walls, fences or buildings. However, there are some varieties that prefer full sun. They have delicate lacy white flowers which bloom from July – August. Hydrangea anomala petiolaris is a popular variety with a RHS Award of Garden Merit.

With over 70 species of hydrangea, there are compact varieties and ones with scented flowers or fall foliage, and even varieties that flower twice on old and new wood. Some varieties of panicle hydrangeas can even be grown as a hydrangea tree, where they are trained and trimmed to look like a tree.

Where to grow hydrangeas

Hydrangeas grow best in well-drained soil, in a protected, dappled shady spot. They prefer sun in the morning with some shade in the afternoon.

South-facing positions are best avoided, and protect young growth from spring frosts. Most soil types are suitable, keeping in mind that the pH will change the color – less than 5.5 for blue, over 6.5 gives pink, between 5.5 and 6.5 purple.  

They do not do well in dry soils, so choose a position with moist, fertile soil – to help the soil retain moisture the soil can be enhanced with garden compost or a well-rotted manure.

'Hydrangeas like reliable moisture in the summer, so don’t plant them in a dry position. Their new shoots are frost tender, so avoid frost pockets, and if your garden experiences drought in summer, plant them in semi-shade. People seem to forget they are happy in shaded conditions and when growing hydrangeas, plant them in blazing, full sun where they look washed out and drought-stressed in summer,' says says Matthew Pottage, curator at RHS Wisley.

As they can tolerate some shade, hydrangeas make perfect plants for woodland gardens and north-facing garden ideas. 

How to plant hydrangeas

If you’re asking yourself ‘should I cut back hydrangeas in the fall’ the answer depends on the type of hydrangeas. However, in general, the best time to plant hydrangeas is in spring or fall. 

• If you are planting a container-grown hydrangea, first dig a hole twice the width of the shrub’s root ball. Before planting you can enhance the soil by digging in organic matter or well rotted compost to the base of the hole to help the ground retain moisture.
• Before planting, water the hydrangea.
• Place the plant in the hole. The soil level around the plant should be the same level as the ground – to check you can lay down a bamboo cane.
• Backfill the planting hole with a mix of soil and organic matter and firm in using your heel to prevent air pockets around the roots and water well.
• Finally, mulch around the base of the plant to help it retain moisture.
• Climbing hydrangeas should be planted in the same way but will need planting at least 9 inches (22cm) from a wall, fence or house.

How to grow hydrangeas from cuttings

Like many shrubs, hydrangeas take well grown from cuttings which is a straightforward option if you're looking for a cost-effective way for how to grow hydrangeas. Cuttings can either be taken as softwood cuttings in late spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in summer.

To take softwood cuttings:

• Softwood shrub cuttings can be taken from March to August but are best made in spring. Softwood cuttings should be made in the morning
• Select healthy non-flowering shoots of new growth and using secateurs, cut a section with 3 – 5 pairs of leaves. Seal in a plastic bag and place in a shaded place until they are ready to prepare.
• Trim off the lower leaves and reduce the cuttings to 3-4 inches (8 -10cm), cutting below a node.
• Using a pencil as a dibber, make holes in a pot filled with seed compost and insert the cuttings.
• Water the cuttings and place them in a propagator at 64-70°F / 18-21°C. Alternatively you can seal a polythene back over the top.
• Once the cuttings have rooted, harden them off and transplant into individual pots. Water, label and keep in a shaded spot to grow on.
• They can be transplanted into their final position the following spring.

You can also take semi-ripe cuttings. To do this 'use rooting hormone on a semi-ripe cutting, place it in a pot with propagation mix, keep it warm, and in about 2 weeks, the cutting will develop roots,' advises Lorraine Ballato, author of Success with Hydrangeas. 

'That sapling then needs to be repotted in potting soil and lightly fertilized regularly to grow it on for about 2 months before it gets planted,' she adds.

How to grow hydrangeas in a pot

If you are growing hydrangeas in pots you can manipulate the potting compost for the color you are after – you can even pop them in the container into the garden bed to then fill gaps through summer. 

Shrubby hydrangeas grow well in pots and are perfect for bringing an uplifting pop of color as a patio idea in late summer.  Be sure to choose small to medium varieties for growing as container gardening ideas. 

Spring and fall are the best times to plant hydrangeas into containers although it can be done at any time of year. 

When planting shrubs in pots it is recommended to use loam-based soil rather than a peat-based compost as peat-based composts can dry quicker and contain less nutrients. 

How to care for hydrangeas

Once planted, keep hydrangeas watered well in their first season so they don’t wilt. To keep hydrangeas blue only use rainwater. Mulching each spring with manure, compost or leaf-mold will help them thrive, and they don’t need feeding, as this will create leaf growth as opposed to flowers. 

While shrubby hydrangeas flower on new season growth, climbing varieties tend to flower on previous season's growth which means both have different pruning requirements and times for pruning. It is important to learn how to prune hydrangeas and when to prune hydrangeas to keep them looking their best and improve the plant's vigor. 

How to grow hydrangeas from seed

While you can grow hydrangeas from seed it is not recommended, 'as it takes a few seasons to get the plant to a sizeable specimen,' explains Lorraine Ballato.

'Seed germination percentages are low so propagation is best done with cuttings,' she adds. 

'Further, most of today’s hydrangeas are a cross of two or more varieties. In that case, the seed is not true to the parent. You are more likely – if it germinates – to get one of the parents, not the offspring or the desired plant. On the other hand, some extraordinarily successful “accidents” have resulted in new marketable plants,' she adds.

Dealing with problems when growing hydrangeas

Frost damage: If new spring growth of the hydrangeas has frost damage, cut it back to just above the first undamaged pair of buds. 

Hydrangea scale: This hydrangea disease shows as white, waxy blobs in summer and is best prevented by careful early inspection from spring. Tend plants to keep them as healthy as possible, encouraging predators such as ladybirds, and think carefully about what to plant with hydrangeas to make good companions. If spraying is needed use organic options in July.  

Lack of flowers: This is most likely to be because pruning was done at the wrong time, so carefully check the label of the plant you buy. 

Pieces bitten out of the leaves: This is a sign of vine weevils, with the white grubs also eating the roots. Check at night when they are most active, catch and squash them. You could also apply a biological control.

How do hydrangeas grow best?

With the wide range of choices and styles available, hydrangeas grow best in a number of situations. They grow beautifully en masse as informal hedging; mixed in borders; all white flowers in a classical scheme or to light up a shaded area; as well as in containers, for both town and country gardens. 

'Hydrangeas look fantastic massed in one variety for a stunning result,' explains Roger Butler, owner of Signature Hydrangeas. 

Are hydrangeas easy to grow?

Hydrangeas are easy to grow and need little attention and you are bound to find an array of options that are ideal to grace your garden and also make striking cut flowers.

For beginners, 'Paniculata are easy to grow and more tolerant; you can’t go wrong with them,' suggests Roger Butler.

'Most hydrangeas are very easy, which is why they are so brilliant – but H. macrophylla and H. paniculata and all their cultivars are vey easy,' says Matthew Pottage of RHS Wisley.

Need to know when to plant hydrangeas? In shady backyards, they are indispensable for providing shape, structure, and color late in the season. 

Learn how to grow hydrangeas and, from July into October, you can enjoy these shrubby stalwarts adorned with generous blooms in shades of cream, lime, pink, or blue. But, to get them off to the best start, you’ll also need to be aware of the optimum time to plant hydrangeas.

Our guide has the information required to brighten the backyard and enjoy flowers for the house by discovering when to plant hydrangeas.

Once you have mastered how to plant hydrangeas it is then important to learn,  when to prune hydrangeas and how to prune hydrangeas, to ensure you plants are looking and feeling their best.

When to plant hydrangeas

Hydrangeas can be planted at any time of year, but the best time to get them in the ground is spring or fall when the weather is mild. 

For many they are an essential among flower bed ideas with enormous flowerheads, each a giant handful in size, remaining on the plant for months, often morphing through a range of colors, before browning in late fall. They can be cut for the vase at any stage, including in fall, when many take on beautiful red, grey, or caramel tones, and they make wonderful dried flowers. 

Thriving in cool semi-shade, their incredible structure makes impact in both traditional and modern borders. ‘I like to rely on the impact of massing many hydrangeas together at once so when bloom season arrives they simply overwhelm the senses in the best possible way,’ says Oregon-based landscape architect and garden designer Bethany Rydmark. 

When to plant shrubby hydrangeas

If you’re wondering when to plant hydrangeas, the shrubs can go in the ground at any time of year, except when the weather is very cold or very hot or if the soil is waterlogged. However, there are optimum planting windows.

‘The best time to plant hydrangeas is in the spring, once the frost is over, and the ground begins to warm up,’ says Anne Greenall, who holds a UK national collection of hydrangeas in her coastal garden in Scotland. ‘Early fall is also a good time before the heat leaves the ground and frosts begin, allowing the roots to establish.’ 

Plant in moist, fertile, well-drained soil in cool, sheltered semi-shade. Dig in organic matter (such as peat-free compost) before planting.

When to plant hydrangeas in pots

Plant compact shrubby hydrangeas (such as ‘Little Lime’) in containers in April or May. Choose a pot with good drainage holes and fill with a mix of organic multi-purpose peat-free compost and John Innes No. 3 compost. Place the pot in sheltered semi-shade and ensure the compost is kept moist, but never waterlogged. 

If you want to try to grow bright-blue hydrangeas and you don’t have acid soil, plant them in containers of ericaceous compost. 

When to plant climbing hydrangea

Climbing hydrangeas (such as gorgeous H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) are wonderful for north or east-facing walls, producing a mass of lacy white flowers above attractive foliage in summer. 

These self-clinging climbers can be planted at any time of year, as long as the ground is not parched, frozen, or waterlogged. However, for the best results, plant in spring or fall. They can take time to establish but are so spectacular and so long-lived, they are worth the wait. 

Plant in moist, well-drained, fertile soil in the cool semi-shade of a north or east-facing wall. The more tender evergreen forms (such as H. seemannii) require a sheltered wall. Dig in organic matter (such as peat-free compost) before planting. 

What month is best to plant hydrangeas?

The months of both spring and fall are best for planting hydrangeas, so long as the weather is mild. In spring, this should be after frost season, and in fall, before it begins again. If you need to plant in other months, avoid those that are very hot or very cold.

When can I plant a potted hydrangea in the ground?

A potted hydrangea can be planted in the ground at any time of the year. However, spring or fall are the best times. Wait until the frosts are over in spring, or plant in early fall when the soil will still be warm and before the frosts.

Hydrangeas are the one flowering shrub I simply couldn't be without in my yard. They have a long-flowering season, producing large heads of frothy blooms in a variety of shapes and varieties, and ranging from creamy white to blush, lilac, blue and magenta. Hydrangeas can also grow quite large if you let them, filling space in beds and borders with their bushy foliage and providing textural interest in the winter months.  

When deciding what to plant with hydrangeas, consider not just varieties that will complement the plants visually, but those that will thrive in the same growing environment. Knowing how to successfully mix different plants is an important part of learning how to grow hydrangeas. And, of course, companion planting, can be beneficial for every plant in the mix.

'Hydrangeas have an easy sort of elegance. Their bold yet simple blooms make them the perfect companion for an exciting range of plants in the landscape,’ says Kip McConnell, director of Southern Living Plant Collection. We have gathered 10 of the best hydrangea companion plants, designed to complement and enhance your hydrangea blooms.

How to choose the best hydrangea companion plants

‘The best companion plants for hydrangeas depend on your type of hydrangea, where you grow it (warm or cold zones), how you site it (south facing, east facing, etc), and the color of the flowers,’ says Lorraine Ballato, author of Success With Hydrangeas.

Hydrangeas grow best in moist, well-draining soil, and will thrive in both acidic or alkaline soil. It’s important to know what soil type you have, so when considering what to plant with hydrangeas, you can choose other varieties to suit. 

Interestingly, the flowers of some types of hydrangea will change depending on the soil pH – blue for acidic and pink for alkaline, so the colour of your hydrangea can tell you a lot about the acidity of the soil, and help you find a plant that will thrive next to it. With the right pairings, can really amplify a color palette and provide months of beauty before passing on the baton to their companion plant.

1. Hostas

Hostas are a great companion plant for hydrangeas. These hardy perennials thrive in nutrient-rich, moist – but not waterlogged – soils, preferring slightly acidic growing mediums. And, like hydrangeas, they prefer partial shade.

These plants are low growing, providing interest at the base of a larger hydrangea. They also feature drop-shaped leaves with bright margins, that highlight the plain greenery and pastel-colored inflorescences of hydrangeas. A perfect pairing if you're planning on landscaping with hydrangeas in a larger part of your yard. 

• Flower color: Purple, mauve, pink, white
• Hardiness zones: USDA 3-9
• Scientific name: Hosta
• Time of year to plant: Spring, fall

2. Daylilies

When considering what to plant with hydrangeas, think about classic color combinations.

‘If you have a big leaf hydrangea with big blue or pink flowers, try daylilies in contrasting colors like orange – it's a classic Van Gogh color scheme,’ says Lorraine Ballato.

Daylilies are striking perennials with exotic-looking lily-like flowers. Though they may appear delicate, they are surprisingly hardy and easy to grow, and will thrive in most soil types.

‘The trouble-free daylilies can take the part shade needs of the hydrangea and still produce great flowers,’ she adds. 

There are a huge number of daylily varieties available to browse for inspiration at Nature Hills. 

• Flower color: White, orange, yellow, apricot, burgundy, pink and red
• Hardiness zones: UDSA 2-9
• Scientific name: Hemerocallis
• Time of year to plant: Spring, late summer or fall

3. Gardenia

The cloud-like blooms of a white hydrangea paired with the fragrant white blossoms of gardenia is the ultimate in elegance. 

The 'Diamond Spire' gardenia, available from The Home Depot, works particularly well with hydrangeas, producing fragrant, single white blossoms late spring through fall with an upright habit.

However, bear in mind gardenia will only thrive outdoors in warmer climes – there are varieties suitable for USDA zones 7a-10b – otherwise they can only be grown indoors.

Gardenias enjoy plenty of moisture to maximize their glorious blossoms, feed them by applying an acidic, slow-release fertilizer such as an azalea or camellia fertilizer.

• Flower color: white, pink
• Hardiness zones: USDA 7a - 10b
• Scientific name: Gardenia
• Time of year to plant: Fall

4. Coneflower

‘Echinacea purpurea blooms around the same time as hydrangeas and adds a pop of color. It is a great plant to include in the foreground of your hydrangeas,’ says Sam Hoadley, manager of horticultural research at Mt. Cuba Center botanical gardens.

Tolerant of partial shade, echinacea purpurea grows well in moist fertile soils where hydrangeas thrive – as long as it is well draining – and can be planted in acidic or alkaline soil.

‘As an added bonus, this species is also known to attract a large number of insect pollinators,’ adds Hoadley. 

You can find coneflower seeds at True Leaf Market.

• Flower color: Pink, white, lime, yellow, red, and orange
• Hardiness zones: USDA 4-9
• Scientific name: Echinacea purpurea
• Time of year to plant: Spring and early fall

5. Pieris japonica

Flowering early in the season, Pieris japonica, or Japanese andromeda, is a great companion plant for hydrangeas. 

‘This spring-blooming shrub partners well in a shrub border with hydrangeas; I consider it the opening act for the summertime hydrangea display, says Bob Polomski, horticulturist with Clemson University Cooperative Extension.

‘This evergreen prefers acidic soils and is a suitable companion for hydrangeas that produce blue flowers at a soil pH of 5.5 or less.’

As with hydrangeas, Pieris japonica needs a partially shaded, sheltered spot.

• Flower color: Green and reddish pink
• Hardiness zones: USDA 5-8
• Scientific name: Pieris japonica
• Time of year to plant: Fall

6. Conifers

When thinking about what to plant with hydrangeas, don't overlook trees and bushes. Conifers, such as junipers, pines, and dwarf pines, are some of the best companion plants for hydrangeas.

You could create various elegant compositions by combining tall thujas and spreading hydrangea bushes. It’s better to grow these plants on two levels – high trees in the background and lower bushes in front of them.

Conifers are a broad species, but generally they prefer acidic, well-draining soil. As evergreen plants, they add color and interest to the garden year round, including in winter. When the cold weather arrives, make sure you know how to winterize hydrangeas to protect them from the elements – and to show them off against the conifers.

• Flower color: Green
• Hardiness zones: USDA 6-8
• Scientific name: Various, depending on the choice of conifer
• Time of year to plant: Early spring and early fall

7. Ornamental grasses

Ornamental grasses add a wonderfully textural contrast to hydrangeas. Many species are non-invasive, and will happily fill a border, nestling in around other plants.

‘If your hydrangea has a white flower, try some black mondo grass. The contrasting color which it holds all season long marries well with the hydrangea and grows happily in similar conditions,’ says Lorraine Ballato.

‘Another very popular companion plant is Japanese forest grass. Like the mondo grass, it holds its golden color all season long and enjoys the same growing conditions as the hydrangea.’

• Flower color: Ranging from black to mauve and green
• Hardiness zones: USDA 6-9
• Scientific name: Ophiopogon Mondo Grass 'Nigrescens'
• Time of year to plant: Early spring

8. Camellias

Some hydrangeas can provide glorious blooms over almost three seasons, offering a radiant show when the weather is on the warmer side. But what about winter? Well, a clever pairing of camellia offers blooms that pick up where hydrangeas leave off, ensuring your garden has almost year-round flowers.

Camellias prefer well-drained, acidic soil, and warm climates. The simplest way to provide it is to use a commercial mix for rhododendrons and azaleas, such as this plant fertilizer from Walmart. 

• Flower color: Pink, cream, read and yellow
• Hardiness zones: USDA 6-10
• Scientific name: Camellia
• Time of year to plant: Fall and spring

9. Astilbe

Commonly known as the false goat's beard, astilbe grows well alongside hydrangeas. The frothy flowering plant likes shade, requires abundant watering, and thrives in acidic growing mediums. 

With its lush foliage, the false goat's beard keeps its decorative value even after the blooming season is over.

The plant’s fern-like delicate branches offer a pleasing contrast against the background of hydrangeas’ rounder, more substantial leaves.

• Flower color: Pink, magenta, red, cream and white
• Hardiness zones: USDA 4-9
• Scientific name: Astilbe
• Time of year to plant: Spring or fall

10. Clematis viorna

‘Clematis viorna, also known as vasevine or leatherflower, is a lesser-known native plant species that would be stunning when allowed to climb up Hydrangea arborescens,’ says Sam Hoadley. 

Clematis viorna roots thrive in cool shaded conditions at the base of the hydrangea shrub while their vining top growth is tolerant of part shade to full sun and can gently twine though the hydrangea shrub itself.

‘Their whimsical, bell-shaped flowers would offer a pop of color and contrast to the large showy inflorescences of the hydrangeas,’ adds Hoadley.

• Flower color: Pink, burgundy, purple
• Hardiness zones: USDA 4a - 9b
• Scientific name: Clematis viorna
• Time of year to plant: Early spring

FAQs

Can you plant roses and hydrangeas together?

It is possible to plant roses and hydrangeas together. However, as roses are sun loving, while hydrangeas prefer some shade, you will need a more tolerant variety. Paniculate hydrangea 'Limelight' thrives in full sun, and its limey colored blooms make a perfect foil for romantic pink roses.

Can you plant peonies and hydrangeas together?

As peonies flower earlier in the season than hydrangeas, they can make lovely planting companions. Once they are over, the plant will begin to die back, making way for hydrangeas to shine. Peonies thrive in full sun or partial shade, and prefer a sheltered spot. They are also tolerant of most soil types, provided they are free draining.

There are many different varieties of hydrangea - some are climbing varieties while others are bushy shrubs with huge globe flowerheads. They have different pruning needs depending on their type - knowing how to prune Annabelle hydrangeas may be different from the Bobo variety, but once you know the method for pruning, and when to prune, your shrubs will continue to thrive.