Most people will dethatch their lawn once a year. Removing thatch undoubtedly keeps a lawn healthy, but investing in an electric dethatcher may seem outlandish for such an infrequent job. So many opt for a spring-tine rake, but these are not always tough enough. There is an alternative that doesn’t break the bank: a lawn dethatching rake.

Such a tool has curved steel tines that slice through the thatch layer and bring it up from the lawn's surface. It offers an affordable way to dethatch a lawn efficiently. Using a manual tool rather than a powered one does require effort, but using the right tool ensures you do a proper job and remove as much thatch as possible as you go.

I found this Walensee lawn dethatching rake on Amazon that is adjustable and features a versatile two-sided head. One side removes thatch deeply, and the other can be used for various jobs, such as loosening soil, removing grass or leaves, or levelling a lawn. It costs less than $30 and can become an essential gardening tool for many seasonal lawn care tasks.

A Strong, Affordable, Versatile Lawn Care Tool

The best time to dethatch a lawn is in spring, but it can also be done in the fall. However, most people will focus on doing it once a year, as part of their spring lawn care. It can be hard work, but it is worth doing, ideally in both spring and the fall. An excessive build-up of thatch – made up of dead grass, roots, and other debris – in the lawn prevents water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil. It also increases a lawn’s susceptibility to disease.

An electric dethatcher is always a big investment – such as this electric dethatcher and scarifier with collection bag at The Home Depot for around $160. If you only have a small lawn, it is a big outlay, especially when you consider how often you should dethatch a lawn. A spring tine rake (like this fiberglass metal tine rake at Walmart) can do a decent job, but I have found that the thin metal tines can bend and contort as you go. You ideally want something a bit more robust.

That is where the Walensee lawn dethatching rake offers a potential solution. At the time of writing, it costs $29.99, making it an affordable alternative to an expensive electric piece of kit. And it means you don’t risk damaging a lawn rake you may also rely on for getting rid of leaves, preparing seedbeds, or spreading topsoil.

A key feature of the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is the dual-sided 15-inch head. It contains 19 strong, curved steel tines to bite into the thatch and remove it as the rake is pulled through the lawn. The strong steel head will not bend or deform as you use it.

The angle of the head can be adjusted with a wing nut that you can loosen or tighten by hand without tools to find the perfect angle for removing the most thatch. It may take a bit of trial and error to get that angle spot-on, but once you find it, you’ll be efficiently removing large amounts of thatch so your lawn can breathe and rehydrate properly. As well as removing thatch, it also aerates the lawn as it slices through the soil’s surface.

The primary use for the tool is dethatching, but by flipping the head, you can use the curved ends of the steel tines to loosen soil in beds or level the lawn for either planting grass seed or laying turf.

Another versatile feature of the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is the adjustable handle. The length can be adjusted from 40 to 70 inches in 15-inch increments (40, 55, or 70 inches) by adding or removing sections.

You can find a comfortable length and avoid bending or reaching while dethatching. The sections thread together, and you can disassemble the tool so it doesn’t take up so much shed storage space. The handle also has a non-slip soft rubber grip that makes it pleasant to use.

What Shoppers Say

At the time of writing, the Walensee lawn dethatching rake has a rating of 4.2 out of 5 from over 1,000 global ratings on Amazon.

The reviews praise the rake for pulling out thatch efficiently, but do admit it requires some degree of physical effort and takes a bit of tinkering to get it working to its full potential.

‘If you don’t have a huge yard, this de-thatcher gets the job done well; just remember it’s still gonna make you break a sweat,’ says one shopper. Another says: ‘This tool is perfect for maintaining your yard space. Gear up for a core, arms, and shoulders workout.’

‘This rake absolutely does the job. And at the same time gives you a workout,’ notes another customer. ‘You’ll need to practice with the angles and stroke; once you do – blastoff.’

A recurring theme along the reviews is the opinion that the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is best for people with smaller lawns.

‘The Walensee rake is a good buy for small yards,’ says one such review. ‘For larger yards, unless you're 20-something, it will be a workout. It's great when you develop a rhythm and adjust it properly’

Reviewers use phrases like ‘a solid tool’, ‘very sturdy’, ‘pretty durable’ and ‘of great quality’. However, some customers say the adjustable handle loosens during use, and you need to keep stopping to retighten it.

You can do it in spring and fall, but when is it too late to dethatch a lawn? In the fall, when you can dethatch cool-season grasses but not warm-season ones, you shouldn’t do the task when there is less than a month until the first frost and the grass is going dormant. If the grass has stopped growing due to low temperatures, it is too late to dethatch.

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When we reach October, the assumption is often that the time for sowing grass has passed and you have to put up with bare patches until spring, when something can be done about it. However, that is not the case, as October can be an excellent time to overseed a lawn.

It comes down to your location and the type of grass. In many climates, the soil is still warm enough to germinate cool-season grass seeds, plus there is lots of helpful natural rainfall to make life easier. Provided the soil is at least 50°F and there are four weeks until a ground frost, you can sow grass seed.

I wouldn’t dwell, however, as it is best to start your lawn care earlier in October. It is better to have warmer temperatures and a longer timeframe for the grass to establish roots before dormancy. If you do want to plant grass seed in October, get yourself a fresh bag of seed (like this bag of perennial ryegrass at The Home Depot) and overseed sooner rather than later.

Is October Too Late to Plant Grass Seed?

October is not too late to overseed a lawn in fall, but time might be against you and the coming weeks may be your last opportunity. Whether you can plant grass seed in October, and how far into the month it is possible, depends on your climate and the type of grass. But don’t fall into the trap of thinking the window is closed for the season just because it's October.

‘October certainly isn’t automatically too late to overseed a lawn,’ reassures Guy Jenkins, Consumer Manager at Johnsons Lawn Seed. ‘In fact, it can offer some of the best conditions, with naturally higher moisture levels and soil that has retained warmth from summer.’

It predominantly comes down to temperature. Grass seeds need temperatures of at least 50-60°F to germinate. That means early October can still be warm enough in many regions, except perhaps in the coldest northern US hardiness zones.

Jonathan Davis, lawn expert at Lawnsmith, says that overseeding should be considered one of the ‘key priorities’ in October lawn care, along with aerating and fertilizing.

‘This is your last chance to overseed the lawn,’ he adds. ‘The soil temperatures are still high enough for germination; you must get the seed down a couple of weeks before the temperature turns too cool.’

When planning any fall lawn care, a good rule of thumb is to allow four to six weeks between planting grass seed and your first expected hard frost. This gives the seeds the opportunity to establish roots before going dormant for winter.

When to Plant Grass Seed in October

The most important factor to consider when overseeding later in the season is the temperature. Check your local weather predictions for the forthcoming weeks to see if any freezing weather is on the horizon.

Ideally, there will be a good stretch of mild weather ahead, which will be perfect for germination. But it is not just all about the calendar date and the air temperature; check your soil too before sowing any seeds.

Sourav Das from Yardener, a problem-solving website that has answered over 6,000 questions from gardeners, claims: ‘Soil temperature decides it, not the air. Seed needs soil at 50°F, so buy a soil thermometer and check.

‘Once the soil drops below 50°F, the seed just sits. Seed that sprouts right before a hard freeze is the bigger risk, because the seedlings have no roots to carry them through.’

Guy Jenkins adds: ‘As long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged and conditions remain suitable, there is still an opportunity to repair bare patches, improve lawn density and establish stronger grass ahead of winter.’

If there is a cold snap incoming, an alternative is to think about dormant seeding. This is where the seeds sit dormant over winter to then sprout in spring. The ideal time is when the soil is too cold for germination, but not frozen. This technique provides an opportunity to plant grass seed in winter.

You can get a soil thermometer on Amazon

The Best Grass Seed for Planting in October

Not all types of grass seed are best for overseeding in the fall. October is a time for seeding with cool-season grasses, not warm-season grasses. It is too late for warm-season lawns typically found in southern zones.

Cool-season grass types like Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, and fescues are common across northern and transitional zones. These fast-growing grass seeds are readily available in the fall and can be sown in October as they germinate at lower soil temperatures.

You do not want to sow warm-season grasses, such as St. Augustine, Bermuda, or zoysia grass this month. These are not actively growing in fall and are better suited to sowing in warm soils in late spring or early summer, as they need temperatures of 65°F and higher to germinate.

Shop for Grass Seed

When you plant grass seed in October, do you need to water it? Typically, in most climates, you should get enough rainfall that you don’t need to.

However, if the weather is unseasonably dry and warm, Sourav Das from Yardener recommends watering the grass ‘twice a day’ to begin with. He adds: ‘Short and light is enough. You only need the top quarter inch of soil to stay moist.’ A sprinkler isn’t usually an essential gardening tool in the fall, but keep one on standby in case of a dry October.

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Picking up fallen leaves can feel like a never-ending battle in fall, with new piles appearing just hours after clearing the last lot. That's why I don't bother clearing leaves from absolutely everywhere in my yard. Instead, I focus on the one spot where fallen leaves can cause big problems: my lawn.

Leaving fallen leaves on the ground is beneficial for the wildlife that use it as shelter, and it can provide some insulation in flower beds. However, it's a crucial part of fall lawn care to remove fallen leaves because they can smother grass and kill it, leaving bare spots come spring – something I learned the hard way.

Luckily, it's super easy to clear leaves from your lawn in fall (and there are plenty of leaf-clearing tools you can use, like these hand leaf scoops from Amazon). Here, lawn care experts explain why you should never skip this fall garden task.

Why Remove Leaves from the Lawn?

'A light layer of leaves can be beneficial when it is mulched finely, but thick piles should not be left on the lawn,' says Brian Feldman from TruGreenHeavy. 'Leaf coverage can smother the grass, block light and air, and contribute to matting and disease problems,' he explains.

Last year I made the mistake of leaving leaves in a corner of my lawn where a tree overhangs. In spring, I found the whole corner to be nothing but bare soil where the grass had died from suffocation of the leaves over fall and winter. It ends up leaving you with the bigger job of having to repair patches in grass.

As Brian notes, this isn't the only potential risk of leaving leaves on the lawn. You also risk the leaves trapping moisture and harnessing an environment for disease, including powdery mildew on your lawn and red thread.

'Leaves trap moisture, acting like a mulch over the lawn. Even though leaf mulch benefits planting beds, it doesn't work for lawns because trapped moisture can cause diseases to thrive,' says Hillary Thompson, horticulturist and director at Super-Sod.

For this reason, the experts say it's important to remove piles of leaves from the lawn, though you don't need to be worried about a few scattered leaves.

'The preferred method is to mulch the leaves with a mower, chopping them into pieces about the size of a dime. The small pieces can return nutrients to the soil and serve as a sustainable form of lawn nourishment,' Brian suggests.

You can also use a leaf blower (this cordless one from Amazon is a good choice), rake, or if you have a larger lawn to clear, invest in push lawn sweeper (like this from Lowe's).

'I advise blowing or raking the leaves straight into beds or natural areas to decompose on the property and cycle those nutrients back into the soil for the plants to take up again,' says Hillary.

'Leaving the leaves on the property saves money and reduces waste. Even though the leaf mulch piles seem very deep in the fall, by the end of summer the leaves have rotted down, having added organic matter and nutrients to the beds,' she explains.

What to Shop

There are lots of things you can do with fallen leaves and other garden waste this fall. Our guide to eco-friendly ways to clear yard debris in fall has more information on how to compost, create wildlife habitat, make mulch, and more.

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Meet the Experts

Feeding in the fall helps any lawn recover from its summer stresses and toughen up for winter. Your newly nourished and reinforced turf will be in the best shape for dormancy and is guaranteed to come back strong in spring, delivering a glorious lawn to enjoy next year.

When fertilizing a lawn in the fall, one crucial aspect to success is watering. The soil must be moist, and any product needs water to soak into the ground and activate. There are two ways to deliver the necessary water; otherwise, it can lead to fertilizer burn as the product sits on the blades rather than reaching the soil.

Knowing how to fertilize a lawn helps prevent burning or scorching, especially when using granular products. Most of the best fertilizers used this time of year are granular, like this Scotts Turf Builder WinterGuard fall lawn fertilizer on Walmart, and when applied correctly, your lawn benefits from stronger roots. Here is why you must water in fall lawn fertilizer and the best ways to do it.

Why You Must Water in Fall Lawn Fertilizer

A hot, dry, busy summer puts a lot of demands on any household lawn. It may not be looking its best come September and October. If you are planning your fall lawn care, fertilizing is a quick task to support the grass’s recovery and development.

After summer, the focus shifts as the plant produces less top growth and directs its energy toward developing roots. It puts the lawn in the best condition to cope with the challenging winter conditions ahead, including frost, ice, snow, and winter diseases.

Looking further ahead, a supported lawn will do better next year, too, thanks to this winter food supply. Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America claims: ‘When spring rolls around, yards that were fertilized in the fall will also green up quicker thanks to leftover carbohydrates.’

As you can see, fertilizing a lawn in the fall brings many benefits. But it does need to be done carefully, as it comes with potential risks if you forget one important thing: not watering in fall lawn fertilizer.

‘To prevent grass blade burn or scorching after applying any lawn feed, it is really important to water off granular fertilizer from the grass blades to avoid damaging the existing grass,’ advises Chris McIlroy, lawn expert from The Grass People.

Dry granular fertilizer left on grass blades for too long dehydrates plant tissues and causes the burning symptoms, including yellow, brown, or dead patches. It can take 24-48 hours for synthetic granular feeds to start causing damage if not watered in after application.

Watering the lawn after feeding also activates the nutrients in the product and helps carry nutrients down the root zone, where they are needed most. It also ensures no fertilizer is wasted, like getting blown away by strong winds.

If you don’t activate the product and let it get to the roots, spreading it essentially becomes a waste of time and money. This error is made even worse if you actively cause damage to the lawn. Mild symptoms can be remedied, but extreme cases can leave bare patches in the lawn that need repairing.

How to Water in Fall Lawn Fertilizer

Before feeding, it is advisable to scarify (get an electric lawn dethatcher and scarifier at Lowe's), aerate (get a strong manual lawn aerator tool at The Home Depot), and water the lawn. This helps remove thatch, which can block the soil surface and reduce how much moisture reaches the ground, and it creates small holes where the fertilizer can drop.

Apply your fertilizer at the recommended rate, then think about how you will water it in to avoid damaging the grass.

With good planning, you can use natural rainfall to water in fall lawn fertilizer if you prefer to save on water. ‘Fertilize on a day when you are expecting a good amount of rain so it does the job for you,’ recommends Chris.

Keep an eye on the local forecasts for a day when around an inch of rain is forecast and apply fertilizer just before that – ideally 24 hours beforehand. In the worst-case scenario, if you only get showers, you can also top up the levels with a sprinkler.

If there are no wet days forecast, but you need to feed, you can run sprinklers for 30-60 minutes to deliver the required amount of moisture. You can use a programmable timer, available at Amazon, to set your sprinklers for the desired amount of time.

Put a tuna can on the lawn to test how much water you collect, as the timings will differ depending on the type of lawn sprinkler you use. This helps you to apply the right amount and reduce water waste from over-saturating the lawn.

What to Shop:

You can fertilize a lawn without aerating first, but it might not be as effective. Applying lawn feed to compacted soil reduces how efficiently water and nutrients soak into the ground and reach the turf’s roots. You don’t have to aerate the lawn right before fertilizing, but it’s best to apply the feed within 48 hours of aerating to loosen compacted soil.

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For a thick, green, and healthy lawn, you need to aerate it. Whether you do it once or twice a year, September or October are ideal months for spiking the lawn. You can painstakingly use a fork, or make life easier with a rolling lawn aerator that speeds up the job and reduces the physical effort.

Understanding when and how to aerate a lawn helps you keep your grass healthy. Aerating reduces compaction and boosts the amount of oxygen, nutrients, and water accessible to the roots.

To aerate, gardeners can use a garden fork, which is slow and tiring, or opt for something more efficient, like this Walensee rolling lawn aerator on Amazon. With a rolling drum equipped with 42 strong spikes, it will quickly spike the soil as you push it. If you need to aerate a large lawn, it will be quicker and easier with such a tool.

Benefits of a Rolling Lawn Aerator

As a professional gardener and former groundsman and greenkeeper, I have done lawn aeration throughout my career. I have painstakingly covered areas using a fork, spiking the ground at 12-inch intervals. It is a reliable way to aerate, but it takes time and physical effort. At the other end of the scale, I have used mechanical aerators. These cover large areas quickly, but come at a cost.

A rolling lawn aerator is an efficient, budget-friendly way for home gardeners to aerate their lawns without putting in lots of effort or spending a lot of money. The Walensee rolling lawn aerator is currently under $70 on Amazon and can be used in both spring and fall lawn care routines for a healthy, beautiful lawn.

I’m sure many homeowners will wonder why they aerate a lawn when it means laborious forking, potentially twice a year. A roller can become an essential gardening tool, cutting down time and effort – and making aeration more appealing. If you are lacking motivation to aerate the lawn this September, having this tool in your shed will speed things up this season and for years to come.

The Walensee rolling lawn aerator has a steel rotating drum with 42 reinforced two-inch tine spikes. These heat-treated spikes are strong and arranged in a spiral design. This ensures the tool rolls smoothly and consistently, and the soil is spiked effectively. This design also helps to prevent the spikes from bending over time.

To increase aeration, you can add stones to the rolling drum so the spikes penetrate deeper into the soil. If your soil is severely compacted, this may make the crucial difference between healthy, well-drained turf and a waterlogged lawn in winter.

The rotating drum is securely welded to the adjustable handle. This handle comes in four parts that screw together to a maximum of 71 inches. The handle has a rubber, non-slip grip so you always feel in control when aerating.

The adjustable handle makes it comfortable to use; there is no need to bend over, and certainly no need for repeated movements like when using a fork to aerate. While you do step on a fork to push the tines into the soil, don’t step on the crossbar above the drum of the roller.

It will smoothly insert the spikes into the ground without any extra encouragement, and you risk damaging the tool or yourself by stepping on it. Simply push or pull the tool at an even speed across the lawn and watch the spikes leave little holes in the turf as you go.

If you want to improve the penetration, add stones to the drum and water the lawn if it is very dry or dense before heading out with the rolling aerator. Also, try not to tread heavily on the newly-made holes as you go. The roller is 15 inches wide, so you could walk either side of the holes on each pass.

When you get the Walensee rolling lawn aerator home, all you need to do is attach the head to the handle (the necessary tools are provided), and you are ready to roll. You don’t need to worry about the spikes, which are pre-installed on the roller.

What Shoppers Say

Shoppers who purchase the Walensee rolling lawn aerator tend to agree that it works better with extra weight added to the drum. While the manufacturer recommends using stones (and states people shouldn’t use sand), some users have found more novel materials to add in when aerating.

‘I added 'deer corn' to the tube for heavier weight, and it added just enough to penetrate deeper into this god-awful clay soil we have here in Colorado without being too heavy for an old lady to do her own aeration,’ said one five-star reviewer.

‘This is a super great product,’ says another happy shopper who gave it five stars. ‘My husband put pieces of concrete and some old golf balls in it to make it heavy enough to penetrate nice and deep into the lawn.’

The reviewer also said how much better this was than lawn aerator shoes (available at Amazon), which are strap-on attachments with metal spikes to aerate as you walk over the lawn.

Any concerns that the Walensee rolling lawn aerator may be too heavy to use when loaded are alleviated by hearing experiences of those who have used the tool.

‘If your yard is anything like mine, it’s very packed dirt, so you’ll need this heavy. It’s still really easy to move with the weight,’ says one reviewer.

Another advises taking the Walensee rolling lawn aerator out after rainfall, or watering the lawn before using it.

‘The ground needs to be a little soft for this to sink in, but it does sink in much better than I expected. It is a bit of a workout, and I tend to keep the handle high to help add downward force,’ they write. ‘I'm happy with the quality and don't see any issues. It is very sturdy, and using this will become a regular part of the lawn care routine.’

It should be noted that some reviewers say the Walensee rolling lawn aerator is too light, even with added weight, and the spikes didn’t go far into the ground. How well the spikes penetrate the ground often depends on factors such as how compacted the soil is or how dry it is.

Overall, the Walensee rolling lawn aerator has received 4.1 stars out of 5 from almost 400 ratings. Among these, 75% of reviews were 4 stars or above, showing a good level of satisfaction from those who have used the tool.

Shop Aeration Tools

Another important job in both fall and spring lawn care regimes is scarifying. Regularly scarifying a lawn removes thatch from the soil surface and increases the water and nutrients that penetrate the soil.

While you can scarify a lawn with a spring-tine rake, it is laborious. An alternative is an electric scarifier, such as this 2-1 electric dethatcher and scarifier at The Home Depot.

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After a summer of high temperatures, little rainfall, and more action than at any other time of year, your lawn may be struggling come September. It may look far from the lush, green carpet of your dreams and more like a patchwork quilt. However, September is an ideal window to show your lawn some love.

Lawns naturally start to recover from their summer exhaustion once the temperatures drop and they get more moisture. If you aerate, scarify, and feed as part of your fall lawn care, you can support this recuperation. The conditions in early fall are also ideal for overseeding and repairing any bare patches that opened up.

Here are our picks of crucial September lawn care tasks that will help your lawn recover from a tiring summer, be ready for winter, and come back stronger so you have a beautiful lawn next year. If you regularly invest time in lawn care, this electric aerator and dethatcher from The Home Depot is one machine in the shed for two essential seasonal tasks year after year.

1. Increase Mowing Height

A brown, patchy lawn in September means your grass is stressed. The combination of heat, dryness, and constant activity, from recreational activities to summer gatherings, takes its toll.

You do need to continue mowing your lawn in September, as the grass will keep growing until the frosts arrive. Mowing the lawn in fall keeps it neat, but you should increase the height of the lawn mower deck from what you’ve been doing in summer. It is advisable to raise the cutting height to around two to three inches.

Doing this helps the grass retain more moisture, which is vital as it recovers from the summer stress. Mowing too short in the fall can lead to weaker turf and more lawn weeds. Raise the height gradually throughout fall to prepare the lawn for the final mow of the year. This process conserves energy and helps your lawn survive the winter.

2. Aerate to Relieve Compaction

All the activity your lawn sees over the summer, from parties to playing, compacts the soil and the thatch. This compacted soil restricts the amount of water and nutrients that penetrate into the ground for the lawn to benefit from. It can be the reason for brown or bare patches of grass, or a waterlogged lawn where water struggles to soak in.

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, recommends aerating the soil in September to help it recover and bounce back again next year. ‘It is a great time to aerate your soil, which relieves compaction while also allowing oxygen, nutrients, and water to reach the roots before the ground hardens, especially for cool-season grasses like fescue or bluegrass, which thrive in the spring and fall growing seasons,’ she says.

Gardeners should aerate a lawn if they have cool-season grasses, as Allison mentioned, but not if their lawn is made up of warm-season grasses, like Bermudagrass, zoysia, and St. Augustine grass. These want aerating in late spring or early summer.

This four-row lawn aerator at Amazon has 20 steel spikes and is ideal for small lawns. For larger lawns, a rolling spiked aerator like this from Lowe’s can save time.

3. Scarify the Grass

Thatch, such as dead grass stems, roots, and moss, can accumulate during the summer. A thin layer is part of a healthy lawn, but once it gets too thick (usually over half an inch), it starts to affect your grass’ health.

September can be a time to scarify a lawn to remove thatch and prevent it from building up to excessive levels. It helps increase the water and nutrients that penetrate the soil, improves drainage, and avoids winter compaction.

Again, knowing the type of grass dictates when to scarify a lawn. Fall is a good time for cool-season grasses, but not for a warm-season lawn.

You can scarify with a spring-tined rake – a tough but rewarding job. To make things easier for a large lawn, you can get an electric scarifier. This 2-1 electric dethatcher and scarifier at The Home Depot clears 16-inch paths and includes a bag for collecting the thatch.

4. Fertilize to Strengthen the Roots

Fertilizing a lawn in fall supports the grass’s recovery and the transition into winter and beyond.

A dose of nutrients in September helps the grass strengthen its roots for winter and store food to use over the colder months. Fertilizing a lawn this month also puts it in a healthier position to grow quickly come spring, usually greening up several weeks faster than turf that was not fed in the fall.

‘We recommend fall fertilization for cool-season grasses, but less so for warm-season grasses,’ warns Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man. ‘For cool-season grasses, fall is often an ideal time to feed your lawn essential nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are crucial for root development, energy storage, and overall plant health.’

This fall lawn food on Amazon restores lost nutrients and continues to feed for up to eight weeks. Apply it with a lawn spreader for even results, like this mini broadcast spreader at Walmart.

If you are planning your fall gardening checklist, it is recommended to aerate the lawn before fertilizing.

5. Overseed to Fill Patches

The conditions in September are ideal for grass seed to germinate. Warm soil, cool air, and abundant moisture make a perfect trifecta for grass seeds. Gardeners can take advantage of this by overseeding the lawn in fall to fill in any troublesome bare patches in the turf.

‘If you’re noticing bare spots in your yard, overseeding will help to fill these in – giving you a lush, green lawn come springtime,’ recommends Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America. ‘Doing it yourself? Apply a high-quality grass seed in the right amount using a checkerboard or crisscross pattern.’

Spreading fast-growing grass seed in September also plugs thin patches where weeds can potentially take hold.

Overseeding is best done after aerating and scarifying. Raking the grass removes thatch and identifies additional bare or thin patches, while aerating before seeding improves seed-to-soil contact to help improve germination.

The best grass seed for overseeding in the fall is fescue (Available at Amazon) or Kentucky bluegrass (available at Walmart). Spread it by hand or with a spreader. If you do it in a crisscross pattern as Theresa recommended, this helps ensure even coverage.

6. Remove Leaves

Every fall marks the start of leaves dropping from the trees. Collecting leaves is an important task that keeps your lawn healthy over winter. Leaving them in place can smother grass. This causes patchy or dying areas where the lawn can’t get sunlight or oxygen. Also, a layer of leaves stops water from reaching the roots and becomes a breeding ground for diseases.

Theresa Smith warns homeowners to ‘be mindful’ of leaves on the lawn. ‘If leaves start to fall and mat down areas, delicately remove them,’ she advises. ‘A leaf blower on a low setting is an effective tool for the task.’

A battery handheld leaf blower like this at Ace Hardware can make collecting leaves a quick task. The manual alternative is using a leaf rake.

Or, a leaf vacuum (like this 3-in-1 leaf vacuum, blower, and mulcher at Amazon) can bag up the leaves for you. It is worth making leaf mulch with them, or you can use fallen leaves to protect plants by using them as mulch on borders.

One September lawn care task that nature tends to take care of for you is watering.

If you live in a temperate climate and have a particularly warm, dry September, you may need to water the lawn in fall. However, homeowners who regularly have wetter, milder falls are unlikely to need to get the sprinklers out.

A lawn needs around an inch of water per week in September. Check how much natural irrigation your lawn gets with a rain gauge (like this rain gauge at Walmart with large, easy-to-read numbers).

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Summer puts any lawn through its paces. Months of hosting and family recreation mean heavy foot traffic that compacts the ground and stresses the grass. Now that September is here, it is a chance to help the lawn recover and get it ready for winter and beyond.

Cool-season grasses benefit massively from aeration this month. It breaks up compacted soil so the grass can take in more water and nutrients. Aerating a lawn in September also improves air movement and supports healthy roots.

From mild to severe compaction, knowing when to aerate a lawn can make the difference and get your grass back to its best. It is worth adding it to your lawn care plans for the coming weeks. To make the task quicker and less exhausting than with a traditional garden fork, consider a four-row lawn aerator with 20 spikes like this one on Amazon.

Can You Aerate Your Lawn in the Fall?

Yes, you can aerate a lawn in September. However, it is not a one-size-fits-all rule, and whether you should aerate your turf in your fall lawn care plan depends on your location and the type of grass in your yard.

Aerating a lawn in September is good for some, but not all of the typical grass types that make up people’s lawns.

‘Cool-season grasses, such as Kentucky Bluegrass or Tall Fescue, should be aerated and reseeded in late summer through fall, or mid-August to mid-October,’ recommends Theresa Smith, Senior Vice President at NaturaLawn of America.

‘These grasses thrive in the northern parts of the United States and have a growth cycle that peaks during the cooler months of the year.’

However, warm-season grass types, such as zoysia and Bermudagrass, that are typical in southern lawns, don’t benefit from fall aeration. These grass types are aerated in late spring or early summer when they are more actively growing.

The Benefits of Aerating a Lawn in September

If you wonder why you need to aerate a lawn in early fall, it is because it helps your turf recover from the rigours of a stressful summer. After months of high temperatures, low rainfall, and heavy usage, from family gatherings and summer parties to children playing and other recreational activities, your lawn has endured a lot.

This can include obvious bare patches of grass, together with other underlying issues you may not see when surveying the lawn. This includes compacted soil and thatch caused by an entire summer’s worth of foot traffic. These issues need to be addressed to keep the lawn healthy over winter and into next year.

‘That compacted soil and thatch will hinder your lawn’s water infiltration and nutrient absorption, explains Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man.

‘That’s why fall is the perfect time for core aeration on cool-season grasses. The process prepares the turf for efficient uptake of nutrients and encourages root growth. This alleviates compaction and enhances air and water movement in the soil.’

If you notice water pooling and not effectively soaking into the soil, this is a telltale sign of compaction under the surface. Aerating a lawn in September helps prevent worsening issues from a waterlogged lawn over winter.

To fix any bare patches, you can plant fast-growing grass seed (you can get a bag of rapid grass seed for sun or shade from The Home Depot) in September. Aerating before seeding ensures the best conditions for new seed to develop healthy roots, so if you're planning any overseeding, aerate first.

When it comes to how to aerate a lawn, you can use a garden fork, an aerating tool, or a rolling lawn aerator. The tool you choose depends on the size of the lawn and whether you want to spike or remove soil plugs.

Spiking is efficient for a little TLC and mild compaction, while core aeration is needed for heavily compacted soils but requires more effort.

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Once fall arrives, it is time to start thinking about collecting fallen leaves off the lawn. Getting rid of leaves once they start dropping from the trees stops them from smothering the grass underneath, preventing water from reaching the soil, and creating a breeding ground for fungal diseases, such as snow mold or red thread. The easiest way to remove them is with a leaf rake (available at Lowes), and you can bag them up to create leaf mold, a nutrient-rich material to use around the rest of the garden.

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A new lawn needs watering to establish and avoid drying out and dying. But the goal isn’t just to apply as much water as possible whenever; it must be the right amount and at the right frequency. So let’s look at those times when you should reduce or stop watering a new lawn.

The biggest irrigation mistakes homeowners make with a new lawn are overwatering and watering at the wrong times. Not falling into those usual traps means being adaptable: tracking weather patterns, monitoring moisture levels, and adjusting your watering schedule. Do it right, and your new lawn will develop quickly and stay healthy.

Understanding when to water grass and when to hold off to avoid causing unnecessary issues is a key part of good lawn care. Whether you laid turf or sowed seed (get a bag of sun and shade grass seed at Amazon), here are five reasons not to water a new lawn, as recommended by experts.

Don’t Overwater Seeds

It can be a tricky balance act in the early stages of a new lawn. If you sow grass seed to start a new lawn, water is crucial for germination, but it is a fine line between not enough and too much.

You shouldn’t water a new lawn if the top few inches of soil are already damp. That is the sweet spot where you should get healthy germination. In the early days and weeks after planting grass seed, overwatering can wash away viable seeds.

The best approach is shorter watering sessions to keep the top inches consistently moist and prevent them from drying out. Don’t water the new lawn once this crucial zone is hydrated.

‘It's advisable to keep the seed wet for a period of 14-21 days, which could mean lightly watering multiple times a day where possible,’ advises Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man.

‘Then cut back to deeper waterings as needed once the seed has germinated.’

A soil moisture meter (available from Amazon) can be a useful tool for keeping the soil consistently moist in summer and avoiding overwatering grass seed or seedlings.

Don’t Water After Rainfall

In striving for a perfect new lawn, many homeowners often diligently stick to a watering schedule, regardless of the weather. But that is a mistake not to fall into; you need to be adaptable.

When you get natural rainfall, it can often provide adequate water to keep a new lawn going. Don’t be tempted to water a new lawn just because a schedule says today is a day for it. It may feel like it won’t do any harm, but it can lead to root rot or diseases.

Jason McCausland says ‘substantial rainfall’ can be a major reason not to water a new lawn, and it needs to be taken into account when determining when to water the garden.

He adds: ‘Rain counts toward the moisture your new seed and sod need. If the soil is already saturated, particularly after significant rainfall, you should avoid adding more water while the ground remains soggy.’

You can get a rain gauge at Walmart to measure the natural rainfall.

Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Technical Operations and Agronomy at TruGreen, highlights a simple test using a tuna can that homeowners can do to see how much rainfall (or water from a sprinkler) a new lawn gets.

‘New lawns should receive approximately one inch of water per week,’ he says. ‘A simple way to measure one inch is to place a few empty tuna cans – once they're full, you've hit the weekly goal for your lawn.’

Don’t Water When It Pools

There are some telltale signs that you should stop watering a new lawn, and a major one is water pooling on the surface or running off rather than soaking into the soil. Once this happens, it is a sign that you are overwatering the lawn and making the lawn watering mistake of giving it too much water in a session.

Lucas Ford from lawn care company Ford’s Hometown Services warns of the dangers of this happening.

‘When the soil becomes flooded, and pooling occurs at the surface, this is when it is considered too much water,’ he says. ‘You can actually suffocate the lawn’s new and tiny roots by cutting off oxygen if it is trapped under water for a long enough period of time.’

Overwatering also risks washing away lawn seed and increases the risk of disease.

So, whenever you see this sign of a waterlogged lawn, it is time to rethink your watering schedule. Track moisture levels before watering, and cut down how long you water the lawn.

An automatic hose timer, like this one at Garden In Minutes, can help you control how often you water the lawn. It can be programmed to water the lawn in short cycles 1-3 times a day.

Don’t Water in the Middle of the Day

Reasons not to water a new lawn must include timing, and watering at the wrong time of day is a common issue to avoid.

Firstly, you don’t want to water a new lawn during the hottest times of the day, as it is inefficient. You may be spending time watering, or using up valuable resources, and seeing little results.

‘If you’re only watering your new lawn in the middle of the day when the sun is directly overhead, and the temperatures are at their highest, the water will simply be evaporated from the ground before the lawn has had time to absorb it,’ says Chrissie Handley from Online Turf. ‘It’ll be like you never watered it at all.’

The water you are putting onto the lawn needs to soak into the soil and reach the grass roots. This won’t happen if you water at midday. You may see water coming out of a sprinkler, but you can’t guarantee that it is reaching where it needs to be. Putting a new lawn through a cycle of inconsistent moisture stresses the grass and can lead to its demise.

Don’t treat a new lawn like this; instead, water at the cooler parts of the day. The morning is the best time for watering grass.

Brian Feldman recommends irrigating before 10 am, adding: ‘We recommend morning watering as it minimizes both water waste and the risk of disease. This time frame allows water to soak into the soil before the sun can cause evaporation.’

Don’t Water Overnight

Homeowners should also not water a new lawn overnight. It may feel convenient to run sprinklers after dark, but it is not recommended, primarily as it leaves your new lawn highly susceptible to diseases.

Watering the lawn at night causes moisture to remain on the leaf blades for long periods. This creates an ideal environment for fungal diseases to thrive.

‘Common fungal diseases that can develop from improper watering include pythium blight, brown patch, red thread, leaf spot, and dollar spot,’ warns Brian Feldman. ‘These diseases thrive in moist conditions – for example, when grass stays wet overnight – so be sure to avoid nighttime watering.’

While watering a new lawn at night may feel opportune, don’t fall into this trap. The risk is often not worth the reward. Stick to morning watering, wherever possible, to prevent creating issues for your new lawn.

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It can be hard to keep an established lawn looking its best during hot, dry summers. One product that experts recommend is a lawn wetting agent, which reduces the water’s surface tension so it penetrates further into the soil. It helps water to spread through the lawn, even when the soil is parched. Homeowners can apply a lawn wetting agent, such as this Yucca Wet wetting agent at Amazon, before watering or rainfall to help hydrate the grass.

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Meet the Experts

Our summers are getting warmer, with heatwaves becoming more regular and longer-lasting. As many homeowners still long for lush, green grass during summer, more eyes must be on drought-tolerant grasses. So what types of grass make the most drought-tolerant lawn?

Bermudagrass and buffalograss top the list of warm-season grasses, while fescues are the best cool-season grasses for a drought-tolerant lawn. However, just because a lawn is drought-tolerant, it doesn’t mean it never needs watering. Even tough lawns may turn brown in summer and need moisture to keep them green. A drought-tolerant grass may just stay green for longer.

Here we look at which warm- and cool-season grasses can withstand dry conditions better than others. You can choose to sow or plant them on their own as part of your lawn care regime, or use a mix for improved results (like this bag of drought-tolerant grass seed on Walmart). Let’s see what the experts recommend for a tough, drought-tolerant lawn you can enjoy for longer in summer.

Best Warm-Season Grasses for a Drought-Tolerant Lawn

Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass is a great choice for a drought-tolerant lawn if you live in warmer southern climates. It is a fast-growing grass for US hardiness zones 7-10.

Christian Lavender from LawnStarter hails Bermudagrass as ‘the gold standard’ for a drought-tolerant lawn. ‘Bermudagrass is hardy, tolerates traffic, and grows deep roots,’ he claims. ‘The one drawback is that it absolutely needs full sun.’

Bermudagrass makes a top drought-tolerant lawn thanks to its deep roots, which penetrate far down into the soil to seek moisture. It can withstand periods of drought and recovers quickly when it gets moisture.

It can perform on a wide variety of soil types, and bermudagrass creates a thick, green lawn that can cope with heavy summer foot traffic.

Bermudagrass requires sun and warmth to thrive, along with regular mowing around once a week during the growing seasons. Homeowners should also fertilize Bermudagrass in late spring to get it ready for the season ahead.

Buffalograss

Buffalograss is a native warm-season grass from the Great Plains and represents the best native choice for a drought-tolerant lawn. It naturally evolved to thrive in areas with low rainfall and can survive long periods with little moisture.

David Caruso, CEO of MyLawn, claims buffalograss is often his company’s top recommendation for a warm-season lawn. He continues: ‘It's got a deep root system that goes looking for water long after the surface has dried out, and it copes with heat better than almost anything else you can plant.’

Buffalograss offers an excellent choice for sunny gardens down to US hardiness zone 4. It is a type of grass that can handle both winter cold and extreme summer heat.

The extremely drought-tolerant grass needs little irrigation once established, and also requires less mowing than other common lawn grasses.

Christian Lavender claims that buffalograss will ‘brown more easily’ than bermudagrass during drought, but then ‘bounce back with rain’. A lawn can go dormant during a heatwave to conserve energy. The top growth turns brown, but the roots are alive. It is a normal sight, and it quickly recovers once it gets moisture.

Buffalograss also goes dormant when temperatures drop. It turns a straw-like color and then greens up when soil temperatures return to around 60°F. So don't panic about brown grass in winter, either; the grass is alive beneath the surface and conserving energy for next year.

Zoysia

Zoysia is a popular choice for front and back lawns. It reliably creates a dense, green lawn that can handle periods of drought once established.

‘Zoysia is slower to establish than other warm-season grasses, but once it's in, it handles drought and foot traffic well,’ says David Caruso. He describes zoysia as a dependable alternative to his top buffalograss pick for a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant lawn.

Zoysia is a tough choice for a lawn and can be a grass for full sun or light shade. It is suitable for southern and transitional US hardiness zones and will give homeowners a light to medium green lawn that withstands the rigors of summer activities and family gatherings.

It is another that will turn brown during periods of drought and green up when it gets moisture. Zoysia also enters winter dormancy when the soil temperature drops below 60°F.

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Best Cool-Season Grasses for a Drought-Tolerant Lawn

Tall Fescue

If you live too far north for warm-season grasses, fescues may be the best cool-season grass for a drought-tolerant lawn. Of the different varieties, tall fescue is the most highly recommended by experts.

David Caruso describes tall fescue as ‘the standout’ option among cool-season grasses. He adds: ‘Its roots run deeper than most cool-season grasses, so it keeps some green through a dry stretch that would brown out a finer lawn.’

‘Tall fescue is best for lots of sun and traffic, but can struggle with shade,’ adds Christian Lavender.

Tall fescue is a hugely popular cool-season grass that tolerates both hot and cold weather. It has dark green blades that create a coarser lawn than other grasses. This may not be to every homeowner’s tastes. The lawn does need regular mowing, but refrain from mowing too short – the best method is to cut to 2-3 inches.

It has the deepest roots of any cool-season grasses, which helps it cope with periods of drought. Tall fescue also produces less thatch than other alternatives, and doesn’t need regular dethatching.

Fine Fescue

As a viable alternative to tall fescue, David Caruso adds: ‘Fine fescue is worth considering too if you want something that genuinely needs less water day to day, though it won't take heavy foot traffic the way tall fescue will.’

Fine fescue types include creeping red fescue, hard fescue, and chewings fescue. These dwarf cool-season grasses have thinner, needle-like blades that create a dense ornamental lawn.

They do offer a good level of drought tolerance, with their thin blades losing less water than wider ones, but do not have the same deep roots as tall fescue, so they don’t reach the same levels of tolerance.

Fine fescue commonly goes dormant during a heatwave, but it quickly recovers after rain or a watering. However, fescue lawns do stay greener for longer than other grasses.

Chrissie Handley from Online Turf recommends mixing fine fescues with other cool-season grasses, rather than relying on them alone to create a drought-tolerant lawn. She says: ‘Blending the types usually has better results, as you get the best of both worlds and an all-rounder, durable and drought-tolerant grass.’

Kentucky Bluegrass

Kentucky bluegrass is the first choice of grass for many homes in America. This is primarily because it gives the classic rich green color and fine texture that people think of when picturing a perfect lawn. It is often a go-to grass seed for overseeding, as it establishes quickly.

Kentucky bluegrass admittedly produces an attractive lawn, but it is finicky (it doesn’t like heat or shade), high maintenance, and does not offer the same level of drought tolerance as other cool-season grasses. It can cope with drought for up to a week before starting to turn brown, but does reliably recover when it gets moisture.

Newer varieties of Kentucky bluegrass have deeper roots, which help them perform better during periods of drought. Varieties such as ‘Midnight’ and ‘Granite’ offer improved tolerance to dry periods.

Alternatively, a good approach is to blend Kentucky bluegrass with tall fescue for a drought-tolerant lawn.

What to Shop

Watering is usually part of a household’s summer lawn care routine. To keep your lawn hydrated, it is best to water the lawn for 20-30 minutes early in the morning so the water soaks into the soil and reaches the roots. Don’t just give it a light sprinkle, especially not in the middle of the day, as the water can be lost to evaporation before it benefits the grass.

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Even a healthy lawn can look worse for wear after a heatwave. Brown grass is often just a lawn going dormant, but it can be something worse. Understanding how to repair patches in grass starts with knowing what you are dealing with.

Brown dormant patches of lawn are healthy underground and can burst back into life when the temperatures drop and they get some moisture. Homeowners can nurture these lawns with regular watering, light mowing, and fertilizing once the temperatures drop (this SummerGuard Lawn Food at Amazon both feeds the lawn and protects against pests). Those with dead patches, however, usually need to rake them out and sow seed to start again.

If you want to repair brown patches in a lawn, you need to encourage them back into life, not stress them further and risk killing the grass. Patient and careful post-heatwave lawn care is crucial to healthy recovery. Here we reveal five important steps to repairing those unsightly brown patches in your lawn, without causing any extra harm to the grass.

Don’t Panic – Do a Tug Test

Before planning any course of action or restorative summer lawn care, there is one important question to answer – do you have dormant or dead grass? Brown patches don’t mean a lawn is dead. They can be a natural reaction to soaring temperatures as your grass saves resources during a heatwave.

During periods of drought, an established lawn may turn brown on the surface, but the roots remain alive underground, ready to spring back into life when the temperatures drop and rain returns.

Angelika Zaber, a lawn care specialist for Online Turf, suggests a quick and easy ‘tug test’ to tell if you are dealing with a dormant lawn or patches of dead grass.

‘Grab a handful of grass and pull it upwards. If you can feel some resistance and the turf stays anchored, you are dealing with a dormant lawn,’ she says. ‘If it pulls out easily, your lawn is likely dead.’

If your lawn is dormant, you can get on with repairing those patches of grass. If it is dead, you may need to clear the patches and replace or reseed them.

Water Smartly

A dormant lawn will start growing and green up again once the temperatures drop and it gets ample moisture.

Many homeowners may be under water restrictions, or hosepipe bans, that limit or prevent the use of lawn sprinklers. However, any water you can give the lawn will be a helping hand – even if it is via a watering can.

Matt J Adams, founder and lead gardener at The Relentless Gardener, says the key is to ‘water smarter, not harder’ and to give the lawn a thorough soak every few days rather than a more regular lighter sprinkle.

‘Deep watering encourages the roots to grow further into the soil, making the lawn better equipped to cope with the next dry spell,’ he advises. ‘Water early in the morning or later in the evening to minimise evaporation and avoid scorching the grass.’

Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People, recommends: ‘You can also use a wetting agent to enhance efforts and to ensure water breaks through the tough turf.’

Lawn wetting agents, also known as soil surfactants, help water penetrate the grass. The moisture reaches deeper into the soil, and using such agents reduces how often you need to water the lawn.

A lawn wetting agent, such as this hydro holder soil wetting agent at Amazon, can be used on an entire lawn or to repair brown patches.

Shop Kit for Watering Lawns:

Adjust Your Mowing

To repair brown patches in a lawn, you do need to change your regular mowing habits. Continuing to head out with the lawn mower and cutting grass in hot weather as per normal can place further stress on it, potentially exacerbating the situation and turning dormant grass into dead grass.

It may mean not mowing at all. As the grass stops growing when temperatures hit 90°F, it may not make much of a difference. If you do intend to mow the lawn in a heatwave, though, do so in the cooler parts of the day and raise the mower height.

‘If the conditions are too dry, keeping your grass a little bit longer can help its moisture levels, says Chris McIlroy, who recommends leaving 10 days between mows if the lawn’s growth is stunted in summer.

He adds: ‘Set your mower blade to a higher setting to keep the grass a bit longer, which helps shade the soil and retain moisture.’

If your lawn isn’t too long and your clippings are less than an inch, you can leave grass clippings on the lawn rather than collecting them. Doing so shades the soil surface, retains moisture in the ground, and the clippings provide nutrients as they break down.

This battery lawn mower at The Home Depot is ideal for small yards and comes with a mulching plug so you can leave the clippings after mowing.

Feed Post-Drought

Drought and heat take their toll on lawns. They are often left exhausted of essential nutrients. Replenishing the soil levels is an important part of repairing brown patches in a lawn after a heatwave.

However, don’t rush to fertilize a lawn. Applying fertilizer to dry soil can do more harm than good – it can further stress the lawn and even burn the roots. It is better to wait a few weeks, once the worst of the heat has passed and rain has returned, to feed the lawn.

Matt J Adams recommends using liquid seaweed as a fertilizer to reduce stress and help the lawn recover from a heatwave.

‘Seaweed helps condition the soil, encourages stronger root growth, improves nutrient uptake and reduces stress caused by hot, dry weather,’ he explains. ‘Regular applications can also help futureproof your lawn against heatwaves by supporting a healthier root system and improving the grass's ability to retain moisture.

‘Healthier, greener grass is naturally more resilient to heat stress, stays greener for longer during dry spells and recovers more quickly once temperatures return to normal.’

This seaweed supplement for lawns at Amazon is safe for all types of grass and helps to reduce drought stress.

Fix Dead Patches

If your ‘tug test’ revealed dead patches in the lawn, wait until the weather cools to start renovating these sections.

Start by raking out the dead material and thatch – think of it like a light scarification of dead areas with a spring-tine rake (available at The Home Depot) to create a clear area for overseeding and fluff up the surface of the soil so the seed makes good contact.

Sow fresh grass seed over the soil surface (you can get drought-tolerant grass seed at Lowe’s). Take care to keep the area consistently moist for good germination, and continue to do so until the new grass is established.

Cover the seeded area with horticultural fleece or fine netting to stop birds from eating the grass seed, or add reflective objects or deterrents to scare them away.

Alternatively, you can replace dead patches by laying turf in early fall. The mild weather and regular rainfall make early fall a good time to lay turf. It gives the new grass time to grow strong roots before winter arrives.

August is a busy month in the gardening calendar. Aside from showing your lawn some TLC, it can be a great time to add some extra plants to your garden. Our guide to what to plant in August reveals heat-tolerant perennials, ornamental grasses, and late-blooming flowers you can add this month to bring structure and color to your future displays.

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Meet the Experts

Is your lawn looking more brown than green this summer? If the answer is yes, there is no need to panic. It may be that your lawn is protecting itself during a heatwave, and it will spring back into life when the temperatures drop and it gets some water.

Lawns often lose their vibrancy in summer to protect themselves from extreme heat and drought stress. It is a life-preserving tactic; the top growth turns brown, but the roots stay alive. Once things return to normal, it will send out fresh green leaves.

However, there are scenarios where a brown lawn indicates dying or dead grass. If you worry about lawn care, any sight of brown grass in summer will be a cause for concern. To help homeowners spot the difference between dormant or dead grass, experts reveal the tell-tale signs to look for.

Is My Grass Dormant or Dead?

A brown lawn in summer is often a perfectly normal sight. Many gardeners may quake in fear at their thick, green lawn turning brown, but it doesn’t need to be a cause for concern. Whether you should panic or not depends on whether you are looking at dormant or dead grass.

During a heatwave, lawns naturally enter dormancy to protect themselves against the stress of heat and drought. Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People, says it may look ‘dramatic’ but it doesn’t necessarily mean your lawn is dead. He adds: ‘The roots can still be alive and well underneath, and your lawn is just focusing its energy on protecting this area.’

So, how can you tell the difference between dormant or dead grass? It can come down to the texture and feel of the blades.

Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man, explains that a dormant lawn will look ‘straw-like’ and have large areas in a tan or light brown color.

‘The grass blades are dry-looking but remain attached to the plant, and the lawn often has an even appearance rather than scattered patches,’ says the experienced turf expert. ‘If you tug at the grass, it will generally not pull out very easily, which indicates the roots are still intact. Cooler temperatures and irrigation will help bring the lawn back to life.’

If you pull the grass, as Jason mentioned above, and it pulls out of the ground easily, this is a sign the lawn may be dying or dead, rather than just dormant. It is more worrying and can be accompanied by other typical symptoms.

‘A dead lawn will have a grayish-brown or bleached appearance rather than straw-colored,’ describes Jason. ‘It will feel brittle and crumble easily, and it will look patchy.’

Chris McIlroy adds a few other symptoms to look for during summer. ‘Any signs of fungal growth such as mold or a pinkish tinge, and mushy waterlogged soil are signs your lawn could be dying.’

A red or pinkish tinge to a lawn could indicate red thread disease, a common fungal issue that often strikes during periods of high humidity or when lawns are stressed in summer. If you suspect red thread, use a fungus control for lawns product like this one on Amazon that offers one month of disease protection.

How to Help a Dormant Lawn Recover

If your lawn is simply conserving energy in summer, it is time to think about reviving dormant grass.

The simplest solution is regular watering (you can use a pulsating spike lawn sprinkler like this on Walmart that attaches to any standard hose) and not mowing the lawn too short during a heatwave, as longer grass shades the soil and helps to conserve moisture.

‘The best way to help your brown lawn recover is to water it deeply once or twice a week,’ advises Angelika Zaber, a lawn care specialist working for Online Turf. ‘This should be done in the morning so that the sun is not overhead and the moisture has enough time to soak into the soil.’

There is no need for alarm, though, and sometimes doing nothing works too. In a heatwave, when plants all round the garden will be struggling, it is up to you where the lawn ranks in your list of priorities.

Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith, reassures: ‘Lawns can be resilient, and even if they turn brown, the green, vibrant appearance can come back when normal weather returns.

‘It’s easy to panic and overdo it with lawn treatments when you spot browning, but really it’s best to leave them alone. Avoid fertilizing, aerating and mowing and be careful about overwatering, as this could stress the lawn more.’

Overwatering is a classic lawn watering mistake that homeowners may make at the sight of brown grass. It can wash nutrients from the soil and cause shallow roots, which are more susceptible to drought. Also, never water the lawn at night, as it increases the risk of fungal diseases.

Shop Lawn Watering Essentials

When cutting grass in hot weather, it can be good to leave the clippings. If you leave grass clippings on the lawn after mowing, they return nutrients to the soil and act as a natural mulch, shading the soil and reducing evaporation.

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You will always create grass clippings when mowing a lawn. There is an alternative to bagging them up, though. Savvy households can reuse the clippings to create a healthier, more hydrated lawn during the summer.

‘Grasscycling’ means leaving grass clippings on the lawn after mowing. Doing so gives the lawn nutrients, reduces the need to water, and saves you the time and effort of dealing with them. It is a simple, effective way to maintain a healthy lawn.

If you find yourself wondering what to do with grass clippings after mowing, this could be the answer you are looking for. (And this electric battery-powered lawn mower from Amazon has a built in mulching mode.) However, there are circumstances when you still need to bag the clippings. To avoid any confusion, I spoke to lawn experts to find out when and when not to leave clippings on the lawn to help you have healthy, beautiful summer grass.

Why Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn

Leaving the clippings on the lawn is an easy, effective way to help keep your grass healthy throughout the summer.

The clippings are full of nutrients, especially nitrogen, and will return these essential nutrients to the soil as they break down. It is a natural way to add organic matter and fertilize a lawn. It also helps cut lawn care costs, as it is free fertilizer.

Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man, always recommends leaving grass clippings, as it helps promote a healthy lawn.

He says: ‘By leaving the clippings to decompose on your lawn, you’re adding valuable nutrients back into the soil. Follow a regular mowing schedule, skip the raking, bagging, and disposing of these clippings. Use them, and your lawn will thank you.’

In addition to providing nutrients for strong grass, leaving clippings helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing how often you need to water the lawn during the summer.

Brandon Seymour, owner of Granuly Organic Lawn Care, explains how it acts as a natural mulch to conserve vital moisture.

‘They [the clippings] shade the soil surface, reduce evaporation, and help the root zone stay cooler during hot weather,’ he says. ‘It's not a substitute for proper irrigation, but it can help the lawn use water more efficiently, especially in sandy soils where moisture drains quickly.’

To leave the cuttings, you need to mow the lawn often. You can only leave clippings if they are short, less than an inch. A regular mowing regime is pivotal if you plan to leave grass clippings on the lawn.

‘The key is mowing often enough that you're following the one-third rule, meaning you never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing,’ adds Brandon.

‘When the clippings are short, they settle into the canopy and recycle valuable nutrients back into the soil. If you're investing time and money feeding your lawn, it doesn't make much sense to bag them.’

It can be simple to leave grass clippings on the lawn. Many modern lawn mowers have mulching modes, or you can use a mulching plug that blocks the chute on standard mowers. You can get mulching plugs at Amazon for different types of mowers.

Shop Mulching Lawn Mowers

When Not to Leave Grass Clippings on the Lawn

With all the positives outlined above, you may be chomping at the bit to mow and not collect the grass on your next time out. However, there are a few exceptions where you shouldn’t leave grass clippings on the lawn that you need to be aware of.

As mentioned, the clippings need to be short if they are to be left. If you have long grass that clumps together when mown, it is better to bag and remove the clippings. Long clippings won’t break down quickly, and heavy clumps can smother the turf. You could end up with unsightly bare patches in the grass.

It is the same if you are cutting wet grass. The damp clippings stick together and form thick mats that will smother the lawn if left on the surface. These clumps are not only unpleasant to look at but prevent light and air reaching the grass underneath and encourage fungal diseases.

If the lawn is showing any signs of disease – the likes of dollar spot, rust, and summer patch are common issues during the warmer months – it is always best practice to remove any infected grass clippings rather than leave them.

The same advice applies if you’ve recently treated the lawn for weeds or disease. ‘If you’ve used any weed killer, pesticide, etc, anything that isn’t natural that you’d not want biodegrading back into the lawn, I wouldn’t recommend using the clippings as mulch,’ advises Chrissie Handley from Online Turf.

‘You can put that chemical straight back into the ground, which may stunt your grass growth.’

If you can’t get out and mow regularly enough to produce small grass clippings, don’t despair. You don’t have to leave clippings for healthy summer lawn care. Having longer grass does protect your lawn in a heatwave.

Jonathan Davis, grass expert at Lawnsmith, explains: ‘Letting your grass grow slightly longer ahead of a heatwave can help shade the soil and retain moisture.

‘And watering your lawn a few times a week, ideally early in the morning, will help hydration reach its roots. These are safe and effective ways of caring for it in summer.’

Mowing is a typical summer task, but did you know there are temperatures at which you shouldn’t mow? If you mow the lawn in a heatwave when temperatures are 90°F or above, you can put extreme stress on the grass. It is advisable to mow at the cooler parts of the day, or leave the grass longer during extreme heat to retain moisture.

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Meet the Experts

Mowing is one of those classic summer jobs. However, taking the lawn mower out in a heatwave can actually damage your grass. So when is it too hot to mow? When the temperatures hit 90°F, lawn care experts warn homeowners not to cut their grass, as doing so places extreme stress on the lawn. Mowing when the temperatures reach dangerous levels can lead to heat stress, brown patches, or even kill the grass.

It is important to resist any urge to mow when temperatures reach such critical levels. You don't want to put lots of effort into lawn care over the rest of the year, only to undo all the hard work with risky mowing in summer.

You can get an all-weather iron outdoor thermometer from The Home Depot. Homeowners can stake this in a lawn and see when it is too hot to mow. Along with monitoring local weather patterns, a thermometer offers an easy way to make sensible judgements on cutting grass in hot weather.

What Temperature Is Too Hot to Mow the Lawn

When the temperatures spike during the summer, it reaches a point where it is too hot to mow, and you’d only be doing more harm than good by heading out with the mower. That critical point is when the temperature dials hit 90°F (32°C).

Taylor Olberding, the co-owner of Heroes Lawn Care, warns homeowners: ‘Do not mow your lawn if you are experiencing a huge heatwave. Once that thermometer goes above 90 degrees‚ you really need just to leave your mower in the garage․’

That advice is reiterated by Roger May from TruGreen, who says that temperatures of 90 and above ‘add stress to already compromised turf’. He tells gardeners to steer clear of mowing at such dangerous times if they want to protect their lawn in a heatwave.

‘Avoid mid-day mowing when temperatures are in the 90s, as this is when heat stress is most intense,’ the lawn expert advises. ‘The best approach is to mow during cooler parts of the day and avoid mowing during the hottest portion of the day.’

Steering clear of mowing during the scorching parts of the day and adjusting how often you mow the lawn in summer benefits both you and your grass.

Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America advises mowing in the early evening during a heatwave. She says: 'Evening mowing means your grass can recover in the coolest temperatures of the day.’

‘A good rule of thumb is that if it’s too hot for you to mow the lawn, it’s too hot for your lawn to be mowed,’ adds Theresa.

How Mowing in a Heatwave Damages Lawns

When temperatures reach the levels where it becomes too hot to mow a lawn, blindly heading out with a lawn mower puts additional stress on already-stressed grass. As any growth slows in extreme temperatures, it is advisable to wait until it resumes.

‘It may be tempting to head out there and get the chores out of the way‚ but you are doing way more harm than good because your grass is already completely stressed out from the heat,’ warns Taylor.

‘If you start pushing the mower across a water-starved lawn‚ the wheels and the cutting blades will literally squash the wilted blades‚ and they won't bounce back․’

He adds: ‘Every time you mow‚ you're leaving an open wound that allows the moisture to evaporate․ Your yard may end up looking like a patchwork of dead brown spots that will take forever to heal․’

If that doesn’t sound bad enough, Theresa warns: ‘Mowing during the heat of the day, especially in a heatwave, shocks the roots and makes it vulnerable to disease, which can ultimately leave you with unsightly brown spots or even kill your grass.’

The advice is clear. Cutting when it is too hot to mow a lawn will leave you with a stressed, patchy lawn.

A lawn can recover from summer heat stress once the temperatures cool and it gets some much-needed moisture. However, homeowners who heap extra stress on the grass by mowing in a heatwave may not see their lawn bounce back so quickly.

Longer Grass Is Better in a Heatwave

There may be homeowners who shudder at the prospect of not mowing for long periods during the summer. Those who love their perfectly manicured summer lawns won’t like the idea of leaving the grass taller.

But the reality is that longer grass is highly beneficial during a heatwave, as it keeps essential moisture in the soil for longer.

‘Longer grass blades can help shade the soil, meaning moisture doesn’t get evaporated from the ground as quickly in the direct sun,’ explains Chrissie Handley from Online Turf. ‘The shorter the grass, the more moisture it will likely lose, as the soil is more exposed to the sun for evaporation.’

Keeping the grass longer, which includes raising the mowing height if you do opt to cut during the cooler parts of the day, provides a valuable barrier between the precious grass roots and the harmful sun’s rays.

‘The taller the grass‚ the more shade it provides the ground under it‚ saving your roots from the heat,’ adds Taylor.

Longer grass and stronger roots make any grass more tolerant to drought. On the other hand, shorter grass means less moisture in the soil and parched roots. This makes any turf more susceptible to heat stress, weed pressure, pests, and diseases.

What to Shop

Knowing the dos and don’ts of caring for a lawn in the summer months helps your grass stay healthy and looking good, rather than ending up stressed or brown. Our guide to summer lawn care has six important tasks you should be doing at this time of year to keep your grass in good shape.

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Meet the Experts

To maintain the lush, green lawn of your dreams is challenging during a heatwave. When the soil is dry in the summer, any moisture there is can struggle to soak into the ground. That is where a lawn wetting agent makes a huge difference.

Never heard of one? Wetting agents actively help water to penetrate deep down into the lawn, hydrating the roots and helping the grass get the moisture it needs to survive hot, dry summers. It means any rainfall or irrigation stays available to the lawn, and reduces how much you need to water when you do turn on your sprinklers.

Professionals swear by lawn wetting agents, and homeowners should use them as part of their annual lawn care regime, as they can offer short-term summer relief or long-term proactive benefits. Let’s look at how they work and when you should use them on your lawn to get the most benefit. (This lawn wetting agent, available at Amazon, comes with a sprayer that connects to your garden hose to apply it across the lawn.)

What Does a Lawn Wetting Agent Do?

Lawn wetting agents, also known as soil surfactants, are chemical compounds that help water to penetrate the grass and spread evenly throughout the ground. The product reduces the surface tension of the water, helping it infiltrate and spread through the lawn.

Jonathan Davis, a grass expert at Lawnsmith, explains how water can often ‘just run off the soil’ when the ground is parched and hard during a hot, dry summer. But altering that surface tension makes a huge difference in helping moisture penetrate the turf.

‘By disrupting the water’s surface tension, a wetting agent immediately allows it to filter down through the soil, right to the roots where it’s most needed,’ he says.

‘A perfect example of water’s surface tension at play is the old party trick where you balance a coin on top of a glass of water. And when you put a drop of washing up liquid in the water, the surface tension has broken, and the coin immediately sinks.’

When moisture penetrates deeper into the soil, it reaches the root zone, where your grass needs it most. The water won’t run off or sit on the lawn only to be lost to evaporation, which is crucial during hot summers.

Plus, it helps you reduce water waste in your yard. A lawn wetting agent doesn’t replace any need to water a lawn, but it cuts down how much water you need to apply.

‘If grass has entered a dormant state, recovery can be patchy; some areas remain brown while others return to a vibrant green. A wetting agent can revive the whole lawn,’ Jonathan said.

‘So whether it’s a dry lawn that needs reviving, or one that needs protection, a wetting agent is worth every penny.’

When and How to Use a Lawn Wetting Agent

For the best results, it pays to plan your usage of a lawn wetting agent carefully. Whether you want to cover an entire lawn or use it to treat stubborn dry, brown patches in the grass, Jonathan has one key tip for using the product.

‘To get the best out of your product, apply it to your turf before watering or rainfall,’ he says, as this ensures the product is active and working before any moisture hits the lawn, whether courtesy of natural rainfall or gardeners watering their grass.

‘If just treating specific dry areas, spread it further than the initial patch to ensure thorough coverage,’ adds Jonathan.

Fast-acting liquid lawn wetting agents can provide immediate relief, usually less than 30 minutes. These products are perfect for immediate results and can be applied before any summer rainfall or irrigation.

For a longer-term plan to avoid dry summer lawns, Neil Stubley, Wimbledon’s head of courts and horticulture, advises applying a lawn wetting agent earlier in the season.

He told The Guardian newspaper: ‘I’d recommend using a wetting agent to prepare your lawn for dry, summer conditions, supporting its hydration ahead of warmer weather.’

Granular lawn wetting agents can be applied to release their compounds slowly over an extended period. These are usually applied with a lawn spreader over larger areas – like this push broadcast spreader at The Home Depot. They take longer to activate, but their benefits can be felt for longer, up to six months.

Such products can be used as part of a spring lawn care regime. This ensures the wetting agent is established in the soil to protect your lawn in a heatwave.

Shop the Best Wetting Agent for Lawns

One thing to avoid is watering the lawn at night. It may be convenient to set the sprinklers going overnight, but it creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases to thrive. The best time to water a garden is in the morning. If you can’t do it then, early evening is OK as the grass has time to dry before nightfall.

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If you are watering your lawn at night to protect it from the summer heat, lawn care experts have a clear message for you: stop. While setting your smart sprinklers or hose timers to run after dark feels like a convenient, water-saving hack, drenching your grass overnight is actually a lawn care mistake that invites fungal diseases and pests.

The temptation makes sense. Watering away from the sun’s harsh glare and soaring daytime temperatures prevents evaporation. However, what is easy for your schedule is damaging to your grass, leaving moisture to sit on the blades for hours without sun to dry it.

To help with your summer lawn care, we asked leading turf specialists to break down the exact risks of nighttime watering. Plus, if a busy schedule means you must water after dark (and this tripod sprinkler in the Amazon Prime sale is ideal for the job), our experts share the essential damage-control tips to keep your grass healthy, lush, and disease-free.

Why You Shouldn't Water Grass At Night

Knowing when to water grass is often key to it growing well in periods of intense heat and when there's a lack of rainfall.

When it comes to caring for your lawn in June, whilst a timer on a hose or sprinkler system, such as this highly recommended Orbit model from Amazon, is a great idea for busy homeowners, running it overnight is not what the experts advise.

‘While watering your lawn at night might seem convenient, it's typically not the most recommended practice due to one major drawback: the potential for fungal diseases,’ says Ryan Farley, CEO of Lawn Starter.

‘Watering your lawn at night means the water doesn't have a chance to evaporate quickly due to lower temperatures and the absence of sunlight.

'This can leave your lawn damp for long periods, creating a perfect environment for fungi and other lawn diseases to thrive.’

The pores on the leaves of grass open during daylight to expel moisture. If the lawn is watered at night, this process will not happen and can lead to fungal and bacterial growth, plant rot, and even pest problems.

Besides the threat of encouraging diseases and fungi there are other important health and practical issues to consider too.

Gene Caballero, co founder of GreenPal says: ‘Watering at night can create a breeding ground for mosquitos and other pests.’

How to Prevent Lawn Damage When Watering

Sometimes, with our hectic lifestyles, we simply have no choice as and when to do essential chores and watering the lawn certainly falls into this category.

If you do find yourself in this situation, try to give at least a couple hours of sunlight after watering so the blades of grass can dry before nightfall.

Gene Caballero also warns against getting into the habit of watering late in the day. ‘Watering the lawn at night can be harmful if it is done too often or if the lawn is not properly maintained. If you do choose to water your lawn at night, it is important to follow these precautions.

• Water deeply and less often: This will help to encourage the roots of the grass to grow deeper, which will make the lawn more drought-tolerant.
• Water early in the evening: This ensures that the grass has time to dry before nightfall.
• Avoid watering if the temperature is below 50˚F: Low temperatures and cold water can shock the grass.
• Keep an eye out for signs of pests and disease: Treat the problems promptly if they occur.

Gene also advises, ‘If you are using a sprinkler, make sure to adjust the sprinkler head so that the water is not hitting the leaves of the grass.’

This great value sprinkler from Walmart allows you to customise the flow of water and control coverage, so you can use it in large or small yards.

Keeping the grass in your lawn slightly longer can also help to retain moisture so there is less need to water it as regularly. Longer grass traps dew and provides useful moisture for the roots.

Shop Lawn Watering Essentials

The Best Time to Water

‘For most lawns, watering between 6am and 10am is best,’ says Teri Valenzuela, Senior Content Strategist at lawn care specialists Sunday.

‘Watering at this time allows for the watering to be absorbed properly, and it’s particularly beneficial to deter disease and prevent heat stress during high temperatures.’

This four-hour window works like magic for two reasons: The morning air is still cool, and winds are usually calm. This means the water actually sinks deep into the soil and reaches the roots rather than evaporating instantly into thin air.

In addition, any water left clinging to the grass blades will dry off naturally as the sun rises. This keeps the lawn dry during the humid evening hours when fungi thrive, but well-hydrated before the afternoon scorching begins.

If you try to water during the blazing heat of midday, you can lose up to 30% of your water to evaporation before it ever hits the soil. Worse yet, water droplets sitting on the grass in intense midday sun can act like tiny magnifying glasses, scorching the blades.

Ultimately, if you are unsure whether or not it is a good idea to water your lawn at night, it is always best to consult with a professional to avoid making any serious lawn care mistakes.

Shop Lawn Care Kit

Of course, even if you want to make your lawn green and thick, there’s no need to water it if the grass simply doesn’t need it, especially in these times of limited water resources.

Michael Deaton, turf agronomist at Pennington Seed Inc adds, ‘Whatever watering regimen you choose, look to your lawn for the final word. Well-hydrated grass springs back up when stepped on. If grass stays depressed, it may need water. Curled grass blades or dull, blue-gray color are signs grasses are water stressed.’

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If you're a keen veg grower or new to the joys of home-grown produce, June can be a surprising month in the kitchen garden. The temperate months of spring – and with them all that lush, green growth full of hope – can suddenly disappear and you can be left with a plot that looks lacklustre and distinctly lacking in vigor.

This abrupt change in pace is so common it has a name: the 'early summer stall'. There are a number of reasons this happens, and the good news is there are solutions to them all. The five principal reasons vegetables stop thriving in June are changing temperatures, lack of water, nutrient imbalances, heat stress and the natural decline in cool-season crops. Any one of these (although it's often a combination) can cause growth to stall and veg plants to struggle.

To breathe new life back into your vegetable patch, I've dug deep into the five issues affecting your crops in midsummer to find the simplest, most reliable remedies. Your kitchen garden will soon be back to its burgeoning best, healthy and productive until fall or even beyond. And then you can turn your thoughts to what to plant in June.

Changing Temperatures

With June temperatures ranging from lows of around 60°F (16°C) in the Northeast of the US to 100°F (38°C) in the Southwest, and 54°F (12°C) to 86°F (30°C) in the UK, with even the occasional frost not unheard of, the extremes are a whole lot greater than 'gentle June' may suggest. It's no surprise then that your carefully tended vegetable plants could struggle to adjust.

When plants experience dramatic changes in temperature, it causes severe stress. Sudden periods of cold can damage plant tissues, cause yellowing of the leaves and result in stunted growth. Meanwhile, heat spikes lead to rapid water loss, which risks your plants going to seed, or 'bolting'. These sudden changes in temperature are more common in US zones where two different climates meet, and in hilly areas or deep valleys.

To avoid damage from cold temperatures, always keep some horticultural fleece handy (try these fleece jackets from Lowes). Check nighttime temperatures daily and throw fleece over vulnerable crops before nightfall. Cloches (whether DIY cloche ideas or store bought), veg row covers and coldframes are also super handy moveable options to minimise stress caused by extreme, sudden cold snaps.

Shop plant protection domes at Amazon.

Buy a portable mini greenhouse coldframe at Home Depot.

Lack of Water

June rainfall across the USA can vary drastically, but generally averages 3-6in (80-144mm) overall, with parts of the Midwest and Central Plains often dealing with dry spells and flash droughts. In the UK, summers are increasingly unpredictable, with a volatile mixture of showers, often very hot sunshine and an average monthly rainfall of just 2-3in (50-80mm). It's one of the driest months of the summer.

How best to water plants in June? An irrigation system, like this soaker hose from Amazon, set on a timer is a huge help if rainfall is unpredictable, failing that make watering part of your early morning routine. The best time to water the garden in summer is before 9am, when the sun is often hot enough to significantly affect water lost through evaporation.

Remember always to direct water to the base of your plants, using the spout rather than the sprinkler attachment of your watering can. Any crops growing in pots will need careful attention if they're not to dry out.

A generous 2-3 in mulch of organic matter (ideally applied after a good soak) will help to lock in moisture and prevent water loss through evaporation. It will also help to lock in nutrients, in fact adding goodness to the soil as it breaks down and decomposes.

Straw, compost, manure and grass clippings are some of the most effective and nutritious organic mulches to use in a veg garden. Avoid bark chippings as they can remove nitrogen from the soil as they decay: annuals such as veg plants need plenty of nitrogen to grow strongly.

Shop garden straw at Lowes.

Nutrient Imbalance

When you first plant veg in spring, with decent rainfall and seasonal sunshine, chances are they'll start to grow quickly. After a couple of months, if your soil is poor or presenting challenges, that will start to show in the health of your plants.

They're bigger, putting on more vegetative and root growth, and likely starting to develop fruit, so their needs are more complex. Overfeeding your plants is also a possible pitfall. Here's how to choose the best fertilizers for your veg garden.

Lack of nitrogen
If older plant leaves are yellowing or turning pale, chances are they're in need of a nitrogen boost. Use a nitrogen-rich feed such as nettle tea or other high-nitrogen fertilizer, or work in some well-rotted manure to boost levels and restore nitrogen to your soil.

Lack of phosphorus
Spotted a purple or reddish tint to young growth? Is it perhaps in addition to poor flowering and slow root growth? Then you may need to add phosphous to your soil. This is simply done with a sprinkling of bone meal or rock phosphate.

Lack of potassium
If the edges of leaves are browning or yellowing, or your harvest is poor quality, potassium could be the issue. You can fix this with a dose of wood ash, seaweed feed, or comfrey tea.

Lack of calcium
Blossom-end rot on your tomatoes and zucchini or tip burn on your lettuce? Then your soil's probably in need of a calcium boost. Fork in some crushed eggshells, garden lime or gypsum to rectify this deficiency.

Too many nutrients!
If you've gone a little OTT with synthetic fertilizers, it can have a detrimental effect on your young veg plants, burning their roots and creating an overly salty soil environment that actually draws moisture out of your plants. It's one of the most common fertilizing mistakes and signs include crisp, brown leaf margins, lush growth without any sign of fruit and yellowing leaves that can wither and drop.

Fix this by removing the top inch of soil and replacing with fresh compost (if it's slow-release granules or top-dressing that's the cause), or soaking your veg beds thoroughly and deeply to wash away excess fertilizer from the roots.

Shop plant food and fertilizer at Target.

Heat Stress

Across the US and in the UK too June isn't too early for vegetables to start showing heat stress, which tends to happen when the mercury hits around 85°F (30°C). When vegetable plants are stressed from too much heat, it can affect not only their growth but also pollination.

Signs your plants are suffering from heat stress include curling tomato and pepper leaves (usually upwards) in a bid to reduce water loss, tall 'bolting' stems emerging from lettuces, blossom drop and poor fruit set.

Deep, targeted watering will help (in the early morning), as will setting up shade sources. These can include shade cloths, which will lower temperatures around plants, reduce leaf scorch and stop plants like peppers and tomatoes stalling). 30-50% shade cloth is best for sun-lovers like tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, as well as young seedlings; 70%, like this one from Ace Hardware is best for other veg. But an old sheet is better than nothing at all!

Less costly is moving tougher, more heat-resistant containers in place to provide portable shade. Think large pots of geraniums, rosemary, lavender and salvias. Or try pots of sunflowers to shield seedlings from sunlight. Shift these to the south/southwest side of your veg beds (raise them up on bricks if you can) and you'll add an element of shade when the sun's at its hottest – to help with this try wheel plant caddies like these from Lowes.

For taller crops, it can be useful to place a large upturned pot on a stake to act as a parasol over individual plant. Remember too that moving container-grown veg into more shaded spots in the backyard. will help to reduce the effects of heat stress.

You can improve airflow around plants with some strategic June pruning. Removing the lower leaves from tomato plants will let in air and thinning out overcrowded foliage and crossing branches provides natural ventilation to help plants breeze through a heatwave.

Meanwhile, to help pollination, add in a few pollinator-friendly flowers to your veg plot. French marigolds (Tagetes), cosmos, zinnias and lavender are some of the best plants for pollinators.

One last tip: avoid fertilizing when the weather is very hot, as it will trigger a sudden onset of tender growth, which is difficult for the plant to sustain when temperatures are especially high.

Shop pollinator favorites at Burpee.

Decline in Cool-Season Crops

There are certain crops that just won't thrive in warm weather, whatever you do to combat it. And that's because they're simply not built to grow and fruit in high temperatures. So if your radishes have turned woody and won't germinate, fret not: their time has passed, but there's always next spring.

This is also partly true of other root veg including carrots, turnips and beetroot, which are often best sown early and harvested in early summer. They're what's known as cool-season crops, which need to be sown/planted early in the year for early harvests, before the weather turns scorching.

These crops, as well as salad leaves and alliums will naturally begin to decline from now until late summer, but to keep roots from turning woody continue with your deep watering, keep those salads shaded and mulch away to lock in moisture.

June is often a time when gardeners easily relax and think the garden will take care of itself. But it pays to be vigilant and aware of the challenges of vegetable growing in June, and bear watering and heat spikes in mind.

As you can see, there are plenty of low-effort ways to protect your veg crops and keep them thriving through early summer. Better still, your efforts now will pay dividends for the rest of the summer and into autumn as crops mature and harvests begin in earnest.

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Many homeowners envision the perfect summer lawn, but may look at theirs in dismay during June, as it can look worse than it did earlier in the year. If this sounds like you, the clear message is relax. There are reasons this happens, and it can be rectified.

The three main causes of a struggling lawn in early summer are heat stress, disease, or mowing too short. Any or all of these can stress a lawn, causing it to shift from a vibrant green to shades of yellow or brown.

To help turn your fortunes around, I spoke to three experts about what to do with a lawn in June if your grass is struggling with any of these issues. Their tips for summer lawn care can help transform a stressed, discolored lawn into a healthy, green carpet for the rest of the season.

The 3 Top Issues Affecting Lawns in June

Heat Stress

The temperatures vary across the US in June, from lows of 60°F in the Northeast to highs of 90-100°F in the Southwest. Depending on where in the country you are, your lawn may be struggling from too much sun and heat and too little water. This combination triggers it into ‘survival’ mode.

This issue can be exacerbated in transition zones, where two different climates meet, and the variable weather leaves lawns more susceptible to drought. ‘Typically, your grasses in the transition zone are not necessarily the best for an increase in heat and humidity,’ explains Matt Cline, COO of HillSide Lawn Service.

‘They start to go into kind of a drought-type setting, where you start seeing grass just looking a little bit thinner, not growing as much, not showing as much color as it did in the spring, it's basically going into a survivability type mode, where it's just trying to get through until the heat breaks.’

You may think that water can solve all these woes, but even if you do get some water, a lawn can still suffer from heat stress.

As Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Field Operations at TruGreen, claims: ‘Up to 40% of water evaporates before it even reaches the root zone if you're watering at the wrong time. This leaves turf thirsty precisely when it needs hydration most.’

We’ll reveal the ‘right’ time for watering a garden later to avoid this happening to you this summer.

Mowing Too Short

In the drive for a lush, green carpet, many homeowners fall foul of a mowing faux-pas, cutting the grass too short when the temperatures rise.

Many people believe this is the best approach for a perfect-looking lawn in summer. However, in reality, all this does is further stress the grass, especially if it is already struggling with heat, pests, or weed pressure.

‘When in doubt, mow high,’ recommends Theresa Smith at NaturaLawn. ‘Many homeowners will mow their lawns too short, which can encourage the turf to shorten its root systems and make it more difficult for the grass to retain the nutrients it needs.’

Matt Cline advises a better approach is reducing how often you mow your lawn in summer to avoid a stressed, browning lawn. ‘Let the grass grow a little bit, let it recover on its own without mowing it on the same frequency that you normally would in the spring,’ he says.

Increased Disease

Stressed lawns are vulnerable to disease. Along with potential heat stress, there is an increased risk that lawn diseases such as brown patch, pythium blight, summer patch, and dollar spot can take a toll on lawns during hot, humid weather.

‘Warmer temperatures create ideal conditions for disease, weeds, and damaging insects to thrive,’ warns Brian Feldman. ‘If your lawn's soil health has been neglected - whether as a result of compacted soil or pH imbalances - you will also see restricted root growth, which can compound the stress your grass can experience now.’

To reduce your chances of an unhealthy lawn struck by disease, avoid watering the lawn in the evening or at night. Grass sitting wet overnight is a perfect environment for fungal diseases to take hold. Instead, water the lawn in the morning so the moisture has all day to evaporate.

3 Ways to Fix a Lawn in June

The first thought is often that watering the lawn is the sure-fire way to fix many of the issues outlined above, but water in itself is not the golden answer to everything. So, what advice do the lawn experts suggest could be done this month to perk up struggling turf?

Give It a Summer Feed

Firstly, consider fertilizing a lawn. ‘For warm-season grasses, fertilizing now is the ideal window,’ says Brian Feldman.

Those warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass, and St Augustine grass, are widely used in the southern US as they tolerate heat and drought better.

A well-fed lawn has stronger roots and a thicker density. This boosts its drought and disease resistance, and helps naturally crowd out weeds.

‘We give a little bit of a shot of fertilizer and nitrogen in the summer,’ adds Matt Cline. ‘When we get a little bit of rain, it helps perk the lawn back up when it's struggling in the summertime.’

This liquid lawn food at Amazon is high in nitrogen and is perfect for delivering nutrients to all types of grasses during the summer.

Change Your Mowing Habits

The experts already touched on mowing at a higher height when you cut grass in hot weather. In addition, when you head out with the lawn mower in early summer, consider leaving the grass clippings after mowing rather than collecting them.

You can mulch a lawn with grass clippings (provided they are less than an inch) as they are full of nutrients and moisture. The lawn benefits from more moisture being retained in the ground rather than being lost to evaporation.

‘The only time grass clippings should be removed is when there is disease activity or the lawn is so long that the clippings begin to clump,’ advises Theresa Smith. ‘This will smother the plants underneath and can kill the grass. ‘

Make Sensible Watering Choices

There is no hiding that water is a key aspect of summer care if you want a green, thick lawn. Most turfgrasses need one to two inches of water per week at this period of the year, and the important thing to get right is when and how you water the lawn in summer.

‘The best window for watering is between 5 am and 10 am, when temperatures are mild, winds are calm, and the sun hasn't fully intensified,’ recommends Brian Feldman. ‘Morning watering allows grass to retain moisture longer and prepares it to withstand the day's heat.’

And when you do water, water deeply. ‘Be sure to avoid short, frequent waterings, as these can lead to several turf problems,’ insists Theresa Smith. ‘Instead, prioritize infrequent but long waterings, as they encourage roots to grow deep into the soil.’

Deep, infrequent watering helps support stronger, deeper roots, which make any lawn stronger against rising temperatures. Shorter roots, often caused by light sprinklings, make the grass more susceptible to drought.

When you need to water will depend on temperature and recent rainfall, but Brian has a simple trick to help you judge. ‘I recommend using a simple rain gauge or empty cans placed around your lawn to confirm you've hit your one to two-inch target. This prevents both overwatering and underwatering - both of which can damage your lawn,’ he says.

You can get a rain gauge at Walmart with large numbers to easily tell how much rainfall you have had and whether you need to water the lawn.

What to Shop

Protecting the grass when the temperatures spike is often an underappreciated aspect of lawn care. Lots of homeowners worry about plants in flower beds or containers during a heatwave, but don’t have the lawn at the forefront of their thoughts.

But, as we’ve covered here, hot temperatures can all too easily stress a lawn. Protecting a lawn in a heatwave must involve keeping it hydrated. It should include proactive action to water deeply a few days before the temperatures are forecast to rise.

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Meet the Experts

After winter, it's not uncommon for our lawns to look a little tired and damaged from freeze-thaw cycles, improper drainage, and general damage from harsh conditions. But, if your lawn still looks yellow in May and hasn't quite recovered, it's a sign a big adjustment is needed.

Even if you have done everything on your spring lawn care checklist, it's likely your lawn will still looks yellow in late-May if there's a bigger health issue, such as a drainage problem or even a pest infestation. But don't fret, it is possible to recover your lawn before scorching summer temperatures arrive.

Lawn care experts say the best thing to do is diagnose the issue and act with care to nurture it back to life. Here, they talk through four possible causes and how to fix them.

1. Drought

One of the main causes of a yellow lawn in May is drought. With spring temperatures fluctuating and temperature spikes towards the end of the season, it can be tricky to properly manage watering your lawn.

'If your entire lawn (or most of it) is yellow or brown, you should suspect heat or drought. Both of these problems are actually the same – not enough water is getting to the roots of your grass,' says Chris Ramos, lawn care expert from Blain's Farm & Fleet.

'In very hot weather, the sun can evaporate most of the moisture from rain and light watering before it’s had enough time to soak into the soil around the roots of your grass,' he explains.

To check the moisture levels of your lawn's soil, use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon).

You should then think about how long to water your lawn and how to protect your lawn during a heatwave.

You should water early in the morning and late in the evening to hydrate your lawn, avoiding watering it in the middle of the day during hot spells as this can scorch it.

'For better long-term protection against heat and drought, use a fertilizer mix with high phosphorous and potassium levels (like this from Amazon)' Chris suggests.

'This will strengthen your lawn and help it grow deeper roots, which will allow it to resist lawn problems like drought and heat in the future,' he explains.

2. Drainage

Drainage is another common cause behind yellow lawns, and with irregular and sometimes unpredictable rainfall patterns in spring, it may be that your lawn is struggling with excess water this season.

If your lawn is quite compacted from winter and you're yet to aerate your lawn, then there isn't much room for water to drain away. This results in grass roots becoming oversaturated and rotting, causing discoloration like yellowing.

This can be the cause behind brown patches on lawns, too, where specific areas have particularly bad drainage.

To fix this issue, use a lawn aerator tool (like this from Lowe's) to punch holes in the soil, creating air pockets for water to drain. You can also use methods to loosen compacted soil to improve the structure of your lawn's soil.

You may also need to dethatch your lawn if there's a lot of debris and moss on the surface, which you can do with this thatch rake from Amazon. This will provide more light and oxygen to the grass.

Adding organic compost can also help improve lawn soil health and structure.

You can then overseed your lawn to help it recover before summer settles in, or even use this Scotts patch magic lawn repair from Amazon for specific areas in the garden.

Going forward, water your lawn carefully as to not overwater it, paying attention to rainfall. You may even want to install a French drain to help reduce water surface run-off.

3. Pests

If drainage and watering aren't an issue and your lawn is yellow in May, Chris recommends taking a closer look at your grass.

'If you see any holes or brown, yellow, or orange spots on the blades of your grass, you may have an insect infestation,' Chris says.

'Also, check the dirt between your grass blades for small holes or insect eggs. Insects can damage your grass by chewing and eating the blades or roots,' he explains.

There are lots of spring garden pests to look out for when it comes to your lawn. Lawn grubs, leatherjackets, anthills, and sap-sucking grass insects can all weaken your lawn and leave it looking patchy and discolored.

Luckily, there are plenty of natural pest control methods you can use to resolve this issue.

One of the most reliable is turning to the help of beneficial nematodes – microscopic organisms that prey on a wide range of destructive pests, taking care of the issue for you.

You can purchase beneficial nematodes at Walmart.

4. Nutrient Deficiency

Another cause behind a yellow lawn in May is a nutrient deficiency. In particular, a lack of nitrogen (the essential plant nutrient responsible for green vegetative growth) can result in discoloration and a lack of new growth.

If you're yet to fertilize your lawn in spring, this is a likely cause.

'Lack of nitrogen fertilizer or a fertilizer application that runs out of steam won’t keep the lawn deep green,' explains Dr. Roger May from TruGreen.

'Likewise, when soil pH is too high (alkaline), essential nutrients like iron and manganese become harder for grass to absorb, resulting in yellow turf spots, stunted growth, and weak root systems,' he adds.

To be sure of what is happening in your lawn's soil, use a soil test kit (this one from Amazon is highly recommended).

You can then use things like turf boosting lawn fertilizer (like this from Lowe's) to encourage your lawn to become green and thick before summer.

Just watch out for lawn fertilizing mistakes, like applying fertilizer during a heatwave which may burn the roots and cause further damage.

What to Shop

As we move into June, don't forget to read up on summer lawn care. This includes watering deeply in the morning to keep your grass hydrated during hot spells.

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Some of the best tools for transforming your lawn are common gardening tools. You don’t need fancy technology or gadgets for a glorious summer lawn. A lawn rake perfectly exemplifies this, as it offers a multi-purpose, budget-friendly way to complete many essential lawn maintenance tasks.

It is particularly beneficial in the spring, as among all the tasks this essential gardening tool is useful for, dethatching makes a huge difference to your lawn and can be done quickly and easily with a rake. It means more air and water reach your grass, helping it to be lush, green, and thick for the summer.

Lawn professionals agree that a simple lawn rake is often an under-appreciated tool that comes highly recommended for all homeowners to have in their shed. If you have yet to start your spring lawn care, there is still time, and owning a lawn rake will help your lawn look fabulous.

You can get a strong 24-tine steel lawn rake with a fiberglass handle at Lowe's.

What You Can Do With a Lawn Rake

It might not win any awards for fashion or technological advancements, but a lawn rake is a valuable, budget-friendly tool for maintaining a green, thick lawn. And every homeowner should have one in their shed.

Indeed, Todd Huffine, the owner of IMPACT Lawn Service in Cincinnati, says that a lawn rake is ‘easily the second-best investment of money most homeowners could apply for a beautiful lawn’ as it is inexpensive, durable, and multi-purpose.

(If you are interested, Todd named a soil meter capable of testing PH and moisture as the best tool, as many lawn issues come from less-than-ideal pH or moisture levels. You can get a 4-in-1 soil meter at Amazon that tests for pH, moisture, light, and temperature.)

So, how can a lawn rake be used in lawn care? Let us count the ways.

As the name suggests, a lawn rake is good for raking. This can be getting rid of leaves from a lawn in the fall (allowing the lawn to breathe) or dethatching in the spring (removing moss and debris to allow air and moisture to reach the roots). Both of these are crucial tasks across the seasons for keeping a lawn healthy and attractive.

Also, a spring-tine lawn rake can be used to lift and loosen matted grass, a condition which can be caused by winter snow or foot traffic and affect the lawn’s overall health.

When grass condenses into a matted carpet, moisture is trapped under the blades, and air circulation drops – this makes the lawn susceptible to fungal diseases, including snow mold in the winter and red thread and blight in damp, humid summers.

Thankfully, a few minutes spent raking affected areas will lift the matted grass and make an instant difference.

When overseeding a lawn, raking the area beforehand is recommended to remove thatch and moss. Raking also roughs the soil surface, which helps guarantee good contact between the ground and the grass seed to aid germination.

Finally, a lawn rake can be used to disperse compost or topsoil on a lawn, flatten mole hills or worm casts on a lawn, and spread soil plugs when a core aerator is used to aerate a lawn.

Overall, it is quite a list of lawn care tasks for which one tool comes in handy – you can understand how a lawn rake can see a lot of action throughout the gardening year.

The Best Job for a Lawn Rake in Spring

A lawn rake comes to the fore in spring, when looking after the grass needs to be on any spring gardening checklist. The ideal window to give your lawn some TLC in spring is from mid-March to the start of May, depending on your location and grass type.

However, Chris McIlroy, lawn expert at The Grass People, claims to ‘not be disheartened’ if you haven’t gotten around to it by late May, as there is still the opportunity to head out with the lawn rake and help the garden ahead of summer.

‘Don’t put it off until next year, there is still time to get your lawn in great shape,’ he says.

Firstly, the rake can be used to clear the lawn ahead of getting started. As Chris recommends: ‘Before starting any lawn care, remove all the debris that has made its way onto your lawn, such as stones, twigs, branches, leaves, and even litter.’

The core task for the lawn rake is dethatching, as excessive thatch in the grass leads to unhealthy lawns with shallow root systems that are more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Todd Huffine claims you don’t need an expensive rake to make a big difference to the overall health of a lawn in spring. He says that a ‘once-per-year thatching’ with a rake benefits any lawn as there is ‘less dead debris on the soil surface, preventing air and nutrients from entering.’

‘For under $20 and less than 20 minutes of effort, you can massively improve the health of your lawn by letting more air get into the soil and making pathways for additional morning moisture to reach the grass,’ adds the lawn expert.

Depending on the size of your lawn, it may take longer than 20 minutes. It might be a workout you can break up into smaller sections, but the rigors are worth the results.

You can get plastic or metal spring-tine lawn rakes, and the latter are the best to add to your tool shed. The tines are strong yet flexible, and perfect for raking up debris. A metal-tine lawn rake is a more multi-purpose tool, while a plastic one (like this plastic lawn and leaf rake at Lowe’s) is suited to gently raking matted grass and collecting leaves.

Shop Lawn Rakes

You can get a dedicated thatching rake (such as this thatching rake at Lowe’s) with sharp, rigid blades specially designed to rip and pull out dead grass and moss from a lawn. Whether you need one of these specialist tools depends on how often you dethatch a lawn, and if you’d rather have a tool you can use for many other jobs as well.

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Meet the Experts

As temperatures soar and the prospect of rain becomes increasingly unlikely, you might be feeling a little anxious about keeping your plants hydrated. It's easy to forget, however, that weeds compete for the moisture in your yard, which is why weeding is a crucial task to check off your list during a drought.

No gardener looks forward to pulling up stubborn weeds – especially in hot weather. But with their complex root systems and relentless growth, weeds can absorb far more moisture than cultivated plants, leaving the rest of your garden to struggle.

So, while it's easy to let a task like this drop to the bottom of your list, getting rid of weeds now will ensure you're prepared for the dry, scorching days that are yet to come. Below, experts reveal why weeding during drought is important and how it will benefit your yard.

Why You Shouldn't Forget About Weeding During Drought

When it comes to creating a drought-tolerant yard, many gardeners will think of planting and landscaping. After all, drought-tolerant plants will save you the stress of constant watering, while drought-tolerant landscaping guarantees good water management.

Yet, according to experts, a simple task like weeding can be transformative in hot, dry periods. Weeds don't just look unsightly; below the surface, their root systems can essentially 'steal' moisture and other vital resources from the plants in your yard.

There's no denying that weeding is easily overlooked, and it's especially tempting to put it off at a time like this, when many regions are experiencing heatwaves. It is, however, even more crucial right now, and ticking it off your summer gardening checklist will leave you feeling more prepared for the months ahead.

'Most homeowners don't consider weeding in a drought until their yard is suffering, but it's actually one of the first things I mention when we're working on a property that has dry, stressed soil,' says Bennett Barrier, CEO of DFW Turf Solutions.

It might be hard to believe, but competition really is the crux of the problem.

'Every broadleaf weed you ignore is silently stealing water that your garden needs,' explains Bennett. 'Weeds do not take a break when it is dry; if at all, they become more aggressive.'

With this in mind, pulling up the pesky weeds in your borders and beds can have a significant impact on moisture retention in the soil.

'In yards with dense clay soil that have been cleared of weeds, water retention is noticeably longer than those that have not been cleared,' Bennett adds.

There are plenty of different types of weeders to choose from, depending on the plants in your yard. Hand weeders, like this one from Home Depot, are ideal for everyday tasks, while standing weeders, like this one from Amazon, will assist you with more stubborn species and tougher root systems.

You can even use tools like a hori hori knife (which you can find at Walmart) or a hand tiller (which you can pick up at Ace Hardware). You can also make your own weed killer if you're looking for a low-maintenance solution.

Make Weeding a Priority – Before it's Too Late

When it comes to yard maintenance, your priorities are likely to shift as summer sets in. It's best to think of weeding as preventative: get it done as early as possible, and you'll eliminate more serious issues in the future.

'In my experience, drought conditions usually make small problems turn into bigger problems faster,' reflects Alex Wright, founder of YardCalc. 'A few weeds don't seem like a big deal early on, but once they get established, you're dealing with larger root systems and usually harder, drier soil at the same time.'

Regular weeding will also save you from the backbreaking work of pulling up entire plants, which can have detrimental effects on the rest of your garden.

'It's always easier to remove weeds while they're still small,' says Alex. 'Once they've had time to spread roots and settle in, pulling them becomes more work, and you disturb more of the surrounding soil too.'

Naturally, weeding isn't the only weapon in your arsenal at this time of year, and creating a foolproof watering system will also help you to protect your plants in a heatwave.

Drip irrigation kits, like this one from Amazon, are a brilliant way to keep your plants happy during hot weather (you can also try out a DIY drip irrigation system).

There are, in fact, irrigation kits for every part of your yard: drip irrigation grids, like this one from Garden in Minutes, will provide consistent moisture to your raised beds, while hanging basket irrigation kits like this one (also from Amazon) are perfect for container gardens.

A soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart, is also a valuable investment if you're unsure about how much water different plants require.

Ultimately, however, weeding will guarantee a neater, healthier yard that is better equipped to handle a drought. And it doesn't just regulate soil moisture. Weeding also allows you to keep a closer eye on your plants, which helps to fend off bug infestations and diseases.

'Thick weed growth makes it harder to spot pest damage and early disease,' confirms Bennett. 'Drought-stressed plants are already weakened, so catching those problems late makes everything worse.'

Desperate for a low-effort approach to weeding your yard? Check out our tips on weeding a garden quickly, or read up on common weeding mistakes and how to avoid them.

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As temperatures begin to soar at this time of year, every gardener will be spending more time watering their plants – but if you have a small yard, you'll know that your hose can quickly become a problem. Hoses occupy a significant amount of space, and storing them can feel like a nightmare.

There is, of course, one thing that promises to solve the problem: an expandable hose. And while I haven't always been tempted to invest in one, I've recently been won over by this Flexi Hose from Amazon. (And it happens to be on sale right now, too.)

Though it can stretch to 50ft, this hose seamlessly retracts when not filled with water. Featuring sturdy brass connectors, thick latex tubing, and a rotating nozzle offering 8 different spray patterns, this just might help me store my garden hose without taking up valuable space this summer.

Why an Expandable Hose Could Transform Your Yard

Traditional hoses might be a failsafe choice for larger backyards, but if, like me, you are the steward of a small garden, an expandable hose could be a much better alternative. I've long relied upon a simple option (like this heavy duty hose from Home Depot), but I'm keen to upgrade my setup.

Whether you have a balcony, patio garden, or a narrow urban plot, you'll be familiar with the difficulties posed by a traditional hose. Unreel it, and it instantly clutters your space; try to wind it up, meanwhile, and it doesn't take long to feel frustrated. Hoses might be a essential piece of kit, but they often feel unsuited to smaller gardens.

This is why expandable hoses can be so revolutionary. If you don't have much square footage to work with, you won't need a lengthy hose, meaning that a compact option is ideal.

You can easily pack and store an expandable hose; a stylish hose bucket, like this Suncast hose pot from Wayfair, is my preferred storage method, and expandable hoses fit snugly inside with no fuss.

Crucially, these hoses also expand and contract by themselves, which eliminates the need to reel them in by hand. I'll be the first to admit that reeling a hose can be an arduous task, so expandable hoses feel especially convenient to me.

This particular hose can reach to 50 feet when filled with water, but it will shorten to a third of this length when not in use.

Its solid brass connectors easily attach to standard faucets; one end is complete with a handy on/off valve, while the other features a strong rubber seal to prevent leaks.

Meanwhile, the hose tubing itself is made from double-layered latex with a polyester outer lining. This ensures that it's weatherproof, resistant to rips and tears, and much less likely to kink or tangle.

Perhaps the most essential component – the nozzle – provides no fewer than 8 different spray patterns, and it even rotates for maximum efficiency. A non-slip, ergonomic handle guarantees a comfortable grip, especially if you're devoting a significant amount of time to watering your plants in the summer heat.

It's worth noting that, while expandable hoses can be a lifesaver in small yards, they can be less practical in certain spaces. The primary reason is that, thanks to their retractable design, these hoses offer a range that is always slightly shorter than advertised, which can lead to straining even if the hose isn't at its maximum length.

Though they are certainly easier to store, hoses like these also end up expanding slightly in width as they expand lengthwise. From a practical perspective, this can make them feel a little heavier and more clunky; plus, you'll need to wait for the hose to fill with water before you can use it, so you might find it less convenient than a traditional option.

Ultimately, you might want to spend some time considering whether an expandable hose is the right fit for your space – but if you're struggling to tend to a smaller garden, particularly as watering becomes a daily task in the summer, this could be the solution you've been looking for.

What Shoppers Say About This Expandable Hose

There are more than 2,250 five-star reviews of the Flexi Hose on Amazon, with customers describing it as lightweight, flexible and easy to use.

'I bought this 50ft expandable garden hose for my yard and it has worked absolutely great: it is incredibly lightweight and easy to pull around without kinking or tangling up,' writes one shopper.

'The included eight function nozzle provides excellent water pressure for everything from watering delicate plants to washing the car,' they continue. 'I highly recommend picking this up if you need a reliable and easy to store hose for your home.'

Some customers report issues with durability, noting that the nozzle began to leak after a few months of use. However, others describe it as sturdy and reliable.

'This is the second one of these we’ve bought,' explains one customer. 'The first went bad after three years of heavy use. It started to leak around the nozzle. They might not last forever, but three years is a long life for a hose.'

What to Shop

As summer approaches and watering the garden becomes a particularly crucial task, why not check out our guide to common garden hose mistakes (and how to avoid them) or take a look at our tips on how to disguise a garden hose, if you're keen to keep your yard tidy.

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The current record-breaking temperatures in the Eastern US call for action to protect our gardens. But, it can be both labor-intensive and wasteful to constantly go out in the yard with your hose pipe, not really knowing if you're watering sufficiently. That's why I'm looking to swap manual watering with an irrigation system.

There are so many innovative products out there to help you reduce water waste in the yard while keeping plants hydrated, but my latest find is perhaps the most effective. The Garden in Minutes Garden Grid provides full, even coverage for a bespoke space using a modular square foot watering grid. The fact it works in raised beds and veg patches gives me the reassurance that all of my plants will stay hydrated and won't wilt away this summer.

Shoppers who have already tested it out say it's made a huge difference: 'The secret about watering in consistency and this does the trick elegantly,' one person writes. Not to mention, the grids are currently reduced in the Memorial Day Sale, so now is the time to invest in this garden upgrade before the heat wipes out your planting.

How the Garden Grid Works

If you're looking for effective ways to reduce the need to water in the yard, then you need to get an irrigation setup. It's essentially an automatic watering system that takes care of watering your plants for you, stopping excessive water use.

The Garden in Minutes Garden Grid is a frame that has square planting pockets (ideal, but not exclusive to, square foot gardening). Along each pipe, multiple nozzles release water for even coverage.

The great thing about it is that is comes in pre-assembled sections, so it takes just minutes to put together.

It's also compatible with standard water hose timers (like this from Amazon) to make it an automated system.

There are several Garden in Minutes garden grid watering system sizes available, including cornerless options, so you can choose one that fits your growing space.

For me, this is an easy solution to ensure my entire garden beds receive sufficient water during summer, making sure they don't fade away from heat stress.

What Shoppers Say

The Garden in Minutes Garden Grid has a 4.9 star rating with hundreds of customers sharing positive experiences in the reviews.

One of the main selling points of the Garden Grid is the fact it comes in pre-assembled sections and takes just minutes to install.

'Just as easy to install as shown on the Garden in Minutes website!' one five-star reviewer confirms.

The Garden in Minutes Manifolds even make it possible to connect multiple grids, which I love for a modular design that creates a bespoke irrigation system for your space.

'So happy to have an efficient way to water my three raised beds while saving precious water resources,' someone shares.

The grid is designed to fit the interior of standard raised beds, but the kit also comes with a riser tube to accommodate for different soil and bed heights.

'The [Garden Grids] are the best addition to my garden. With the previous irrigation there just was not adequate water but now that is covered and should not be a problem,' another shopper shares.

'Makes my gardening hobby much easier. I can fully automate the garden and not worry about it. Well designed and seems pretty rugged,' another person writes.

The Garden in Minutes Garden Grid is durable and built to withstand all seasons. The website notes there are even 'original Garden Grids from 2013 are still in use today.'

Plus, the grid has a built-in filter to stop a debris blockage.

'I found these looking specifically for a square foot gardening grid that could also water, and these are definitely worth it!' a five-star reviewer writes.

The only downside to note is the fact they have square corners: 'I wish I had realized I was getting these before buying planters with rounded corners,' one person writes.

'The only issue with this that the cornerless grids don’t really water the ends as well as the rest of the grid so I usually have to comeback through and add a little water,' they add.

And of course, this irrigation system is an investment, with the 4x8 Garden Grid costing $155.

However, the fact it provides such reliable coverage, makes watering less strenuous, and is built to last undoubtedly makes it a higher quality product than the cheaper irrigation kits available on the market (like this $43 one on Amazon).

Plus, it's currently marked down to $124 in the Memorial Day sale (and there's up to 25% off on the other size grids), which is a great deal to jump on to safeguard your plants from the hot temps this summer.

What to Shop

Make sure to read up on garden watering mistakes to ensure you water your plants correctly in a hot weather. Getting it wrong could cause significant damage to your plants' health.

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Whether you prefer a softer, natural look in your yard or are just short on time, opting for the ‘lazy lawn’ method where you cultivate a longer length of grass can prove a revelation.

As many landscape architects and pro gardeners know this form of lawn care is not only good for the currently trending naturalistic style of planting, but also for local wildlife, beneficial insects and general plant and soil health. Some would also claim it is way more interesting and attractive to look upon, thanks to its gentle movement in the slightest breeze, heightened texture and subtle color variations rather than striving for a static, green monoculture.

We delve into the beauty and practicalities of a longer lawn and discover the design tips and tricks those in-the-know use to highlights it’s natural charm.

Benefits Of Growing a Longer Lawn

More than just a style choice, there are plenty of practical reasons to grow a longer length lawn.

'By allowing grass to grow a little longer, or by transitioning portions of a yard into low-mow or flowering lawn alternatives, you create a landscape that’s more resilient, more biodiverse, and far more forgiving in extreme weather,' says master gardener Tabar Gibson.

'Taller grass blades also shade the soil, helping lawns retain moisture and develop deeper root systems that are naturally more drought tolerant.'

Opt For Contrast

Longer, softer lawns – or dense areas of planting – are easy-on-the-eye but can appear untamed and rampant in a yard setting if there is little contrast.

Knowing how to use architectural hardscaping elements in garden design, including details such as crisp border edges, smooth paving and linear stepping stones, throw the texture of feathery grasses and criss-crossed stems into focus as landscape contractor Coleman Cosby explains: ‘Neatly maintained borders along planting beds and hardscape, makes the lawn feel intentional, not accidental.’

Statement boulders placed strategically between border planting and a long lawn have a similar effect but also introduce scale for drama. Find natural stone boulders at Home Depot.

Swap In A No-Mow Grass Alternative

The principle of ‘right plant, right place’ is often overlooked when it comes to lawns, but ditching the vision of a verdant close-clipped lawn traditional can prove key when it comes to thriving, low-effort ground cover, particularly in tricky sites.

‘For a no mow or low-mow lawn alternative, there are a number of excellent options, but it’s important to choose species appropriate to your region, light conditions, irrigation levels, and expected foot traffic,’ says Coleman Cosby.

‘One of my personal favorites is Carex tumulicola (Berkeley sedge), which is highly versatile and adapts well to a range of conditions. Carex pansa (California Meadow Sedge) and Bouteloua dactyloides (buffalo grass) are great choices for areas with more regular foot traffic.’

As Coleman states: ‘Successful establishment starts with good soil preparation and diligent weeding before the lawn alternative has fully filled in. From there, maintenance can be very minimal.’

Take a look at the grass selection at Nature Hills which includes the blue-green and burgundy hues of Shenandoah Switch Grass.

Ramp Up The ‘Ruffle-Me’ Appeal

Embrace the unchecked movement of a longer lawn by interplanting it with tall, slender grasses that gently intermingle and sway in the breeze.

‘I’m always fond of soft, billowy grasses that respond to the wind and evoke a softer, slower moment,’ landscape designer Stacilyn Feldman. ‘We like the slender leaves of Carex pensylvanica that grow in clumps and small ripples across a larger mass planting. It can be mowed once or twice a year at a higher setting (2-4 inches) to create a more manicured look.’

‘Alternatively,’ Stacilyn continues ‘consider adding Schizachyrium scoparium, Little Bluestem, or similar tall grass in a semi-regular pattern (8-10’ on center) to an unmown lawn. It will evoke a semi-wild prairie character while catching the wind and somewhat magically changing color through the seasons.’

Burpee has a good selection of live grasses including Little Bluestem Standing Ovation.

Weave In Threads Of Seasonal Color

One of the joys of growing a ‘longer lawn’ is the notion of breaking with tradition. Ditch the idea of cultivating a uniform all-green monoculture and welcome in textural contrast, soft movement and height. Why not take the look one step further and introduce seasonal color, through planting areas of perennial flowering ground cover. While the best bulbs for naturalizing in a lawn will provide seasonal color, perennials work well too.

‘To add color to a ‘lazy lawn’ consider Ajuga reptans,’ says Stacilyn. ‘The pop of purple color in springtime flows out across a lawn in slender tendrils that help elongate the horizon line in a broad field. Also, the broad leaf turns a spectacular bronzy color in the fall.’ You can find Ajuga Reptan seeds at Amazon.

'Fine fescues, creeping red fescue, and chewings fescue all perform beautifully when left longer,' continues Tabar. 'These grasses also pair exceptionally well with flowering lawn plants like microclover (Trifolium repens), Dutch white clover, self-heal (Prunella vulgaris), violets, and yarrow - all species that provide nectar and shelter for native bees, butterflies, hoverflies, ladybugs, lacewings, and other beneficial insects.'

Other options to try include creeping thyme or rockcress, for sunny well drained spots or sweet woodruff for woodland, shady areas. You can find these plants at Nature Hills.

Growing a longer lawn is just one way to make your garden less demanding and more naturalistic in style.

Take this approach to your borders and swap high maintenance plants for easy, native alternatives plus discover just how to make the worst gardening jobs easier.

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You need the right kit for any aspect of gardening. When it comes to lawns, those who worship these green carpets in their yard can have sheds full of tools and equipment. Others may not be so well stocked, but quality can be better than quantity.

The truth is that you don’t need lots of tools for a beautiful lawn. This is especially true if you can get one piece of equipment that you can use again and again for different lawn care tasks. That is why experts all agree that any homeowner who wants to upgrade their lawn needs to consider a lawn spreader as an essential piece of kit.

A lawn spreader is a tool designed to distribute materials consistently over the grass. It can be used throughout the year to apply fertilizer, seed, or weed control over the lawn more effectively than by hand. Those consistent applications help you enjoy the best results and have a lush, healthy lawn to be proud of.

Why You Should Have a Lawn Spreader

The takeaway headline is that a lawn spreader provides consistency and saves you time. To some, lawn care can be confusing and time-consuming, but it needn’t be the case. A lawn spreader offers efficiency, makes tasks easier, and there are types suitable for any-sized lawn or budget.

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1. You Use It for Lots of Tasks

Versatility is a huge reason to invest in a lawn spreader. The range of potential uses includes fertilizing a lawn, applying seed (to overseed or start a new lawn from scratch), weeding a lawn, top dressing, or adding other amendments (such as lime or iron) to your grass.

It is quite an exhaustive list of spring, summer, or fall lawn care tasks – plus you can use it in winter to spread de-icer or grit onto driveways.

Sean Dwyer, Senior Product Manager for Wheeled Products at Husqvarna, says there are lots of key requirements for a lawn to be green, thick, and healthy over the course of a season – which is where having a lawn spreader comes in handy.

‘There are spreader-tailored products that meet all these steps,’ he adds. ‘A spreader is an important tool for those who want to have a great-looking lawn. It can be used to apply everything from fertilizer, lime, or pest control products.’

Think how much use you will get out of the kit. If you look at a list of ideal spring lawn care tasks, for example, it can overseed and fix bare patches in the grass, apply a weed-and-feed product, and top dress the lawn.

2. It Gives Reliable, Consistent Applications

‘The biggest advantage of a spreader is that it can give a more reliable application of the product,’ claims Sean Dwyer. ‘This is particularly important when using things like fertilizer to get a consistent-looking lawn.’

Any fertilizer must be applied at the right rate to have the best results. Under-fertilize, and you won’t get the benefit from the nutrients. Over-fertilize a lawn, and you risk burning the grass.

To avoid fertilizing mistakes, all products have recommended rates, and you calibrate the lawn spreader to apply them correctly. To make it easier, quite often, if you use products and spreaders made by the same company, they’ll list the recommended lawn spreader settings on the back of the bag of feed, seed, or weed products.

Using a lawn spreader is always more reliable than spreading products by hand, which can save you money but comes with many potential risks.

‘Whether you are applying fertilizer, seed, or weed control, even coverage is everything,’ says Chelsea Morris, a Lawn Love pro who owns High-Class Grass in Virginia Beach.

‘Doing it by hand almost always leads to uneven growth, missed areas, or over-application.’

‘I would absolutely recommend homeowners have a spreader, especially if they are serious about improving their lawn,’ adds Chelsea.

3. It Saves Time and Money

Lawn spreaders don’t have to be expensive; you can get budget-friendly versions that will become essential gardening tools year after year. After the initial investment, a spreader can last you for many seasons, regularly coming out of the shed throughout the year to boost the lawn.

Over time, repeated use offers significant savings compared to some alternative routes to getting a beautiful lawn. ‘Proper application of fertilizers, granular herbicides, and pest control is expensive to have done professionally,’ says Sean. ‘A spreader is a key item in making the process simpler and less time-consuming.’

The cost-saving continues with each usage. As you apply your fertilizers, grass, weed products, or moss killer at the recommended rates, you are not wasting money using more than you need to or spending extra money fixing issues that arise from over-usage.

Plus, time is money, and using a lawn spreader means you complete tasks quicker than you would do by hand.

This is crucial at peak periods of the gardening season, when there is lots of planting, watering, pruning, or feeding to be done elsewhere. You have time to look after flower beds and container gardens, without the lawn taking up all of your time.

The Different Types of Lawn Spreaders

There are three types of lawn spreaders homeowners can choose from: broadcast, drop, and handheld spreaders.

First is a broadcast spreader, such as this mini broadcast spreader at Amazon. It has wheels and a handle to push around the garden, and it spreads using an in-built spinning disc turned by the propelling motion. There are mini broadcast spreaders for smaller or medium-sized lawns, and larger versions for bigger lawns.

You can also get types of lawn spreaders that precisely drop product the width of the tool for more precise applications. Like this drop spreader at Amazon.

A handheld spreader also has a spinning disc, but this type is smaller and human-powered, with a handle to turn the whirler. These types of lawn spreaders (such as this hand-powered spreader at Amazon) are more suited to smaller yards.

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Most households with a lawn will have a lawnmower. However, it can get confusing if you want to buy a new lawnmower, as new models often come with lots of features – it can be hard not to be perplexed by the jargon.

Our guide to buying a lawnmower cuts through the confusion, revealing the five key aspects to look for when choosing the best lawnmower for your yard.

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Many of us long for a perfect, lush lawn only to sigh and acknowledge that this is nigh on impossible without a serious investment of time, energy, and in-depth know-how. Well, although there’s a degree of truth here, there are some game-changing tasks that can make a huge difference in relatively little time.

Good lawn care is often seen as an exacting science, intimidating to those with little first-hand knowledge and gardening experience, but lawn care experts are keen to dismiss the myth. Numerous simple and speedy jobs will improve both the health and appearance of your grass, and in turn, boost the look and feel of your yard.

Here, leading grass care experts outline the jobs to prioritise and how to get them done easily and efficiently, no matter where you live.

1. Carry Out A Speedy Spot Weed

Plants such as daisies, marestail, and dandelions, amongst an otherwise grass-based lawn, instantly grab our attention and, to many, shout about a ‘less than perfect’ yard.

Removing them takes just a few minutes but makes a big impact as a landscape contractor for Yardzen, Coleman Cosby, explains: ‘Removing aggressive weeds and highly visible broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions, helps reinforce a more maintained look.’

While a long-handled pull weeder – try the Fiskars 3 Claw design at Walmart – makes light work of pulling out dandelions and other deep-rooted weeds, chemical solutions can also prove effective.

‘Focus on targeted removal rather than blanket treatments. Hand-pulling or spot-treating broadleaf weeds now prevents them from spreading and competing during peak growth,’ says lawn expert Jason Keeley.

‘I really like the AccuShot applicator from Spectracide weed killer for spot treatments.’

You can get the Spectracide weed killer at Amazon.

2. Mow Correctly And Consistently

For some, it's therapeutic, but for others, mowing the lawn is a time-consuming chore.

Whichever you feel, there’s no doubt that regular and careful mowing does reap rewards and is a factor behind how to make a lawn green and thick. While engaging the services of a lawn contractor may be possible for many, there are some simple tricks you can do to make the job easier to manage yourself.

Lawn expert Valerie Smith advises good preparation: ‘Sharpen your mower blade if you haven't already. Dull blades will tear grass, making it more vulnerable to disease, while sharpened blades neatly slice the grass.’

A pocket sharpener, like this from Amazon, will get blades sharp. This will make mowing the lawn quicker, easier, and provide better results.

Valerie also says: ‘Get familiar with your grass type's ideal mowing height. Every grass type is different. Zoysia and Bermuda grass, which are warm-season grasses, should be "scalped" for the first mow of spring by dropping the mower down a notch lower than usual.’

3. Aerate The Lawn

May is the growing season for warm-season grasses, such as Zoysia, Bahiagrass, St Augustine, and Bermuda grasses, and the perfect time to aerate these lawns.

A relatively quick job, aerating the soil is an effective DIY lawn drainage solution, transforming waterlogged and heavily compacted lawns, plus those with thin or patchy growth.

Simply grab a garden fork and use it to spike the grass at regular intervals. This will allow water, air, and nutrients to travel directly down to the roots, strengthening root growth and breaking through any thatch. You can work systematically across the whole lawn, or for speed, concentrate on key problem areas.

Tennessee-based lawn expert Bryan Clayton says: 'I recommend renting a core plug aerator.’

He adds: 'This machine plugs a hole down into the soil and it causes the roots to break up and when they heal up, they multiply and grow back stronger.’

Find a good-sized manual lawn aerator with 16 spikes and 8 core plugs at Amazon, or try an 18-inch wide rolling aerator from Lowe's.

Cool-season grasses, including Kentucky bluegrass, fescues, and perennial ryegrass, are best aerated in early fall or early spring.

4. Rake Out Any Thatch

This month is the perfect time to dethatch warm-season grasses. With the right tools, it doesn't have to be a laborious process.

A long-handled metal tine rake makes quick work of this job. It enables you to get down to the soil surface and remove any dead blades or other debris without damaging the grass crowns. Try this Fiskars lightweight rake from Walmart.

If you have a limited amount of time, choose whether to work methodically across the lawn in stages, over a period of weeks, or whether to prioritise key areas - such as those seen from the driveway or inside the house.

5. Review Your Watering Regime

Knowing when to start watering a lawn in spring to get healthy grass means that your lawn irrigation system, sprinkler, and hose need to be ready to spring into action.

A quick but often overlooked lawn care task is to review any presets on your timer to ensure it delivers the right amount of water at the best time.

Early morning is widely considered the best time for watering as the warmer daytime temperatures encourage moisture to seep down to the roots, rather than lingering on the surface and encouraging disease.

'Most grass types need one inch of water per week, including rainfall, so set a time on your calendar each week to review the weather and adjust any automatic irrigation systems,' says Valerie.

'Deeper, less frequent watering is typically better, leading to stronger roots and less nutrient runoff.'

Once you've revitalized your lawn, it's worth reading a guide to summer lawn care for great grass all season long and showcasing your efforts by learning how to create a maximalist border that's bursting with floral color and interest.

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Last year, I was disheartened to see brown patches lingering on my lawn in May, so I set about looking for a product to quickly fix it before backyard hosting season. That's when I tried a patch repair treatment, which transformed my lawn in just a few weeks.

Don't worry if your lawn has brown patches in spring; it can be caused by many common issues, from compacted soil to spring pests. You can usually repair patches in grass with a bit of TLC, and the product that saved mine was the Scotts Lawn Seed Patch & Repair, which is available on Amazon. Unlike using seed alone, this treatment is packed with fertilizer, mulch, and more for faster and stronger grass growth.

I'm not the only one impressed by this lawn care essential, as its 7K reviews reveal shoppers have had lots of success with it. 'I used this to fix some bare spots in my lawn, and after about two weeks, I started to see new grass growing. It was easy to apply, just spread it and water as directed,' one person writes.

Why Is My Lawn Patchy in May?

There are a few reasons why your lawn may be patchy in May.

It could be lingering problems from winter damage, such as compacted soil from freeze-thaw cycles, heavy rain, and poor drainage.

It may also be that you haven't yet dethatched your lawn (with a thatch rake from Amazon), meaning the grass beneath the debris is suffocating.

Another cause is that spring garden pests have woken up. The likes of leatherjackets and beetle grubs feed on grass roots and can cause bare spots.

If it's been a particularly warm and dry start to spring, drought can also cause a patchy lawn. Or, it might be that your lawn has a nitrogen deficiency.

It is important to diagnose the issue (you might find this soil test kit from Amazon helps with identifying low nutrient levels).

If it is a pest or disease problem, it's important to first eliminate it (see how to get rid of leather jackets) before trying to repair the patches. Likewise, poor drainage should be improved by aerating your lawn.

You can then apply a repair treatment, like the Scotts Lawn Patch & Repair.

Why Shoppers Love It

For me, the patch repair treatment worked quickly and restored my lawn to a lush green carpet in a few weeks, just in time for hosting friends and family in my backyard.

The Scotts Lawn Seed Patch & Repair is easy to use. You simply clear the patch of dead grass, moss, and debris, aerate the soil for better seed contact (I just used a hand fork, like this from Burpee), apply the treatment evenly, and then water.

The blend includes a mulch that expands to surround the seed, a controlled-release fertilizer, a tackifier to help keep seed from washing away, and a protectant to help keep seedlings safe while the grass establishes.

'It is easy to use and very effective, making the grass grow quickly and thick,' one five-star reviewer shares.

'I have beautiful grass growing within two weeks. It’s my spring go-to for my yard every year,' they add.

'The grass is coming in nicely,' another person writes.

I particularly like that the bottle itself is a shaker, making it convenient to apply an even layer on brown patches.

Something to note is that this treatment does require regular watering for success, just like overseeding your lawn and getting seeds to germinate.

Plus, the description notes the seeds germinate best 'when daytime temperatures are between 60°F and 80°F'.

This treatment is designed to work in both sun and shady spots, but of course, it might not be the best option if you require more drought-tolerant grasses (e.g., USDA zones 7+).

The seed mix of Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fine fescue grass is considered moderately drought-tolerant, but it requires some consistent moisture during hot spells in summer to keep it looking green and encourage active growth.

For these reasons, some shoppers have had mixed results: 'It works a little, but the results have been pretty inconsistent,' one person notes.

But, for those living in milder climes, it's the perfect quick (and affordable) fix to rescue your lawn in time for summer.

What to Shop

Not sure what else to do with your lawn this month? Our spring lawn care checklist has everything you need to know, including advice on fertilizing your lawn.

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Grass-alternative lawns have become more popular over recent years as they provide low-effort solutions to a luscious green carpet. The latest on the scene is an Irish moss lawn, loved for its soft texture, charming flowers, and low-maintenance.

Irish moss (Sagina subulata) is not actually a true moss, but rather a flowering ground cover plant in the carnation family. It has mat-forming foliage with white blooms in spring and is incredibly easy to grow and care for – it doesn't even need fertilizing. Although slow-growing, it's straightforward to grow Irish moss from seed (like with these Irish moss seeds on Amazon), or you can plant plug plants in spring to fast-track your lawn.

It's also considered walkable, thrives in full sun to partial shade, and it's fairly pest-resistant, so it really is a reliable choice for many climes. Here, I delve deeper into why so many gardeners are swapping grass for Irish moss and how to grow it in your yard successfully.

Why is Irish Moss Good for Lawns?

Irish moss is native to temperate regions of Europe, particularly common in Britain. It's hardy across USDA zones 4-8 and is a good lawn alternative to consider if you don't want to battle the never-ending list of lawn care jobs.

'Swapping a classic lawn for a flowering alternative is a fantastic choice for wildlife, as well as being more low-maintenance than your typical lawn,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'Irish moss will be covered in small, star-shaped white flowers through late spring and summer. It not only looks attractive, but these flowers will attract beneficial insects and pollinators throughout the season,' he explains.

Irish moss's sponge-like foliage also means it doesn't require mowing, forming a low-growing, dense mat that offers lots of coverage for little effort.

'It boosts biodiversity in our yards (which is always a good thing) and also reduces the impact of using fertilizers, weedkillers, and other chemicals that homeowners often routinely put on their yards,' Drew notes.

This is true as Irish moss is an excellent ground cover to suppress weeds, too, and doesn't require feeding the same way you need to fertilize your lawn – it grows well in a wide range of soil types, even tolerating poor soil.

An Irish moss lawn is also much more resilient to pests and diseases than a traditional grass lawn. You may find some slug damage, but there are lots of slug control methods to solve this problem.

The only thing to be aware of is the fact its a perennial plant and may die back in cold winter climes. But it will make a return once the temperatures warm up again in spring.

How to Grow an Irish Moss Lawn

Just like a clover lawn or chamomile lawn, there are just a few steps to add an Irish moss lawn to your yard.

Drew says to be aware, 'Irish moss can thrive in sunny or partially shaded spots, but dislikes intense summer heat often found in warmer southern gardens.'

1. Prepare the soil: Irish moss can grow in a wide range of soil types, even tolerating poor soil. But, it will perform best in a well-draining, fertile soil, preferring sandy and loamy types. If needed, you can take steps to improve your garden soil, including putting down compost and loosening compacted soil. Use this soil test kit from Amazon to get more of an idea about your soil quality.
2. Plant plugs or seedlings: You can often find Irish moss plug plants at the garden center, but it is also possible to grow Irish moss from seed (with these Irish moss seeds from Amazon). 'It is best to plant it in spring, after the frosts and before the warmth of summer, but it is slow-growing, so be patient,' says Drew. It can often be a good idea to start seeds indoors or in a greenhouse and then transplant them to give them a stronger and earlier start. You should plant plugs around 6-12 inches apart to create full coverage.
3. Water well: To help your plants settle in, water well. Ideally, Irish moss should always be watered regularly and shouldn't be left to dry out (this could cause brown patches). 'Once established, you can divide the plants into sections to grow more, which is a budget-friendly way to expand an Irish moss lawn over time,' Drew says.

How to Care for an Irish Moss Lawn

To keep your Irish moss lawn in top condition, there are a few care tasks to do throughout the year:

• Watering: As mentioned, Irish moss doesn't like to dry out and may discolor if it does. You should keep it consistently moist but not soggy, as it is likely to experience root rot in waterlogged soil and could also discolor as a result. Use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to identify when the top inch or so of soil is dry. Keep in mind it will require more frequent watering during hot summers.
• Checking for slugs: In shady, damp spots, Irish moss is particularly susceptible to slug damage. They create brown patches as they eat through it. Regularly checking for slugs and removing them is the best way to reduce this damage. Other natural pest control methods for slugs include using beneficial nematodes (available at Walmart).
• Pruning: There's no requirement to prune Irish moss as it remains growing low to the ground, but you can trim it to tidy it up. Likewise, as it dies back in colder climes, there's no need to remove it, but you can if you prefer a tidier look. You might find a garden knife (like this Fiskars one on Amazon) is helpful if you do decide to prune it.

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Irish moss is also a great choice for a rock garden, filling gaps along pathways and sprawling over rocks.

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Early spring offers an ideal window for a range of April lawn treatments that can make a big difference to your summer lawn. Ideally, you’d do them all. But, in reality, homeowners are busy and can only dedicate so much time to lawn care. So what is one quick fix that can help a lawn thrive come summer? Dethatching.

I chatted to experts about what they think are the most impactful April lawn treatments and dethatching was highlighted as a simple fix that will help your lawn thrive come summer. This is because gently raking out thatch and debris from your lawn puts it in a perfect position for healthy growth.

If you are planning your April lawn care but are short of time, this is one job you should do in the upcoming weeks. A little bit of vital attention can make a marked difference to your summer lawn. Along with this, the experts also revealed a few other important lawn care tasks you can do this month that will help your lawn stay healthy and beautiful for summer parties and family gatherings.

The One April Lawn Fix That Makes a Big Impact

If you want a thick, green lawn to enjoy come summer, you need to add dethatching to your spring gardening checklist.

It is a spring lawn care task I have always done when maintaining turf in public gardens, and at home, and a vastly experienced lawn expert highlights it as an impactful, quick fix to get done this month.

Jason McCausland, National Technical Director at Weed Man, recommends ‘a good fan raking’ in April to get the season off to a great start. And this simple April lawn treatment can make a big difference come summer.

‘This will remove a lot of the thatch and debris that has accumulated over the winter,’ says the lawn expert. ‘This ensures your lawn is ready and able to soak up the sun, water, and nutrients it needs to thrive in the summer.’

You can get a fan rake with a carbon steel head containing 22 teeth and a sturdy wooden handle at Walmart that makes an ideal tool for dethatching a small lawn by hand this month.

Thatch is a natural layer that occurs in all lawns. It comprises dead material, decomposing grass stems, and moss, and sits between the soil surface and the visible top of the grass blades.

You expect all lawns to accumulate thatch. A thin layer is beneficial, but when it builds up too thickly, it becomes a problem. A thick thatch layer acts as a barrier, stopping water and nutrients from getting down to the grass’s roots. The result is a spongy, unhealthy lawn.

All lawns will benefit from being dethatched at least once a year. The best time to dethatch a lawn is when the grass is actively growing. Cool-season grasses will always benefit from a light dethatching in early spring, but whether April is the perfect time will depend on your location.

‘April is the perfect time in many northern and central areas because the lawn is just coming out of dormancy,’ adds Jason. ‘But April is a bit late in warmer and more southern areas. Their lawn care season usually kicks off in late January, so timing is key depending on where you live.’

Dethatching and scarifying both remove thatch and debris from a lawn; the difference is that scarifying is a deeper, more aggressive approach.

Dethatching is recommended for lighter maintenance, but you may need to scarify a lawn if you have a severe build-up of thatch that potentially jeapordizes the health of your grass.

Other April Grass Treatments That’ll Make a Difference

Dethatching alone will help any lawn perform better during the summer, as it improves how much moisture, nutrients, and air get to the grass roots. If you want to improve your summer lawn further, which other April lawn treatments do experts recommend?

Before doing anything this month, Theresa Smith, SVP at NaturaLawn, hails the importance of doing a lawn soil test at the start of the new growing season.

She says ‘a beautiful lawn starts with the soil’ and a soil test will tell homeowners vital information for the year ahead.

‘It will help you understand your soil (soil pH, nutrient levels, organic matter content, and soil type) and what nutrients and treatments will help it thrive all summer long,’ adds Theresa.

‘April is a great time to do a soil test because it should inform every other task. This will help you use the right type of treatments and right amounts – saving you from wasting products and money.’

You can get a soil test kit at Amazon that provides laboratory analysis of your lawn's soil pH and the availability of 13 nutrients.

In many climates, April is when homeowners start watering their lawns in the spring. When temperatures rise and regular rainfall is absent, it becomes time to implement a healthy watering schedule

Don Chouinard, a lawn irrigation expert from Irrigreen, says optimizing watering of lawns is ‘one of the simplest and most impactful’ things homeowners can do in April.

‘April is an ideal time to establish this routine as your lawn enters its active growing season,’ he says. ‘Maintaining consistent moisture early on helps prevent common issues like disease, root rot from overwatering, and weak root systems caused by inconsistent irrigation.’

Lawns need around an inch of water per week to stay green and have strong roots. How long you water your lawn for can make a big difference, as it is more beneficial to do deep, infrequent watering rather than daily light applications.

Jason McCausland also advises fertilizing the lawn this month, saying of the April lawn treatment: ‘It is time to apply a slow-release granular fertilizer to give the lawn a boost and help ensure a green and lush lawn all summer.’

The best fertilizer for grass in spring is a slow-release product that provides a lot of nitrogen to the lawn. A good example is this premium lawn food, available at Amazon.

What to Shop

When you should start lawn care in spring depends on the soil reaching the right temperatures. It differs across the US hardiness zones and whether lawns have cool or warm-season grasses. This guide to the ideal soil temperature to start spring lawn care reveals the markers for a host of seasonal maintenance tasks.

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After a winter defined by relentless snowstorms, ice build-up, and too-many freeze–thaw cycles, lawns across the northern United States will enter spring in fragile condition. Northern homeowners are stepping outside to find matted grass, debris, mysterious patches, and soggy soil.

This year, more than most, the transition into spring demands a planned response and restraint. The urge to fix your lawn’s winter damage immediately can backfire. What northern lawns need now is not aggressive care, but a measured approach that considers the soil first rather than the grass itself.

If you are a northern homeowner tending a lawn, it’s been a few years since you’ve seen blizzard conditions pile the snow up this high. And that ‘snowcrete’ that locked in the Mid Atlantic? No more, thank you. With the last few mild winters, perhaps you’ve blissfully forgotten what your lawn needs most from you this spring. We spoke with three lawn care experts about how to give your lawn some love as it awakens.

What Harsh Winters Leave Behind

Across the northern tier of the U.S. the past few months of heavy snow and ice and continued cold temperatures through March have created ideal conditions for several lawn issues to develop beneath the surface.

'Heavy snow and ice can result in added compaction to lawns,’ Jason Dionne, owner of Dionne Landscape Design, explains. ‘It can be a detriment to roots and soil health and can also delay the turf nutrient uptake.’

That stress is often compounded by wildlife activity. ‘I have noticed voles love the added layer of insulation from snow and can create a maze of tunnels at the soil surface, removing grass blades and thatch while creating tunnels.’

Snow mold is another widespread concern after long periods of snow cover. Colorado State University Extension Horticulture Specialist Linda Langelo notes, ‘The most common problem could be snow mold.’ She says homeowners should watch for ‘Any circular gray, pink, or white patches where the grass will be matted, straw-colored, or fuzzy,’ and doesn’t appear to grow.

Langelo says salt damage will be especially visible this year, thanks to frequent applications along roads and walkways. She explains, ‘The grass will be burned, and there will be brown or dead strips along walkways and driveways.’

Patrick Parent, horticultural consultant and radio show host, explains salt damage can be averted with a gypsum-based product. ‘It can help move the salt through the soil, irrigating the soil a bit so that the salt doesn't actually burn the lawn,’ he says.

He says a pelletized gypsum product is less expensive than a fast-acting gypsum, but would take up to six months to work. Patrick recommends the Love Your Soil organic soil food from Jonathan Green, available at Ace Hardware.

In some areas, the damage is more than what one sees on the surface. Langelo points out that lawns can suffer from ice-related stress: ‘When snow melts and refreezes, it can create patches of turf that pull up easily and appear gray, dead, or slimy,’ she says. ‘This happens because the turf's root system can’t get oxygen, and this leads to an anaerobic condition that causes the roots to rot.’

With all that in mind, here are six steps to northern lawn care this spring.

1. Wait for the Soil to Thaw and Dry Out

Dionne advises homeowners to resist acting too quickly: ‘Although the snow has melted, frost may very well still be in the soil,’ he says. ‘I have found it best to let the natural process play out and resist raking or aerating a wet or frozen lawn.’

Langelo echoes this caution, especially when it comes to moisture: ‘Allow the soil to dry out first,’ she says. ‘Once it does, rake away any dead or matted grass, then water.’

And in regions such as New England where the unofficial fifth season is ‘mud season,’ even walking across the lawn can cause damage.

Parent explains, ‘While it's wet, try to not walk on it as much. As we're walking, we're compacting the soil that much more. Because the frost is still in the ground in some areas, that moisture near the surface is stuck in the soil.’

2: Do a Light Clean-up

Once the lawn has dried sufficiently, start with gentle cleanup. Dionne recommends focusing on surface debris: ‘I prefer to make sure that feces, sticks, and larger debris are removed, along with matted leaves.’ The Anvil Wood Handle poly leaf rake available at Home Depot is ideal for gently gathering leaves and debris left on lawns.

Parent agrees that debris removal is especially important this year: ‘There's been a lot of storms in New England and elsewhere, and we're seeing a lot more branches, a lot more everything, all over the place.’

Ideally for Parent, the leaves would have already been removed from the lawn. ‘The large intact leaves themselves can cause some of that snow mold,’ he says. ‘I'm a big proponent of leaving the leaves in the planting beds, but just remove them from the lawn. And if not, they need to be chopped up.’

3. Don’t Rush Fertilizer

One of the biggest mistakes homeowners make in northern climates is starting too early with fertilizing, watering, and seeding.

‘I don’t recommend fertilizing at this time,’ Langelo says. That goes for seeding and overseeding your lawn, too. ‘Besides, the lawn is still recovering from winter damage. Wait until the soil warms up.’

Parent emphasizes the importance of soil temperature over air temperature when it comes to seeding. ‘Seeding the lawn is definitely something we're going to need to do this spring,’ he says, considering the harsh winter we’ve had.

‘Soil temperatures can tell us when to apply our crab grass controls and when to apply seed. we just need the temperatures to warm up, and we actually need the soil temperatures to warm to 55F (13C).’

Putting products down too soon can be both ineffective and costly. As Parent notes, ‘I don't want homeowners to put seed or fertilizer down, have it not taken up by the roots due to the soil temperature and waste their money.’ Get an accurate measurement of your soil’s temperature with the Reotemp soil & compost thermometer, available at Amazon.

4. Compaction And Drainage

This winter’s heavy snow, ice, and saturated soils have left many lawns compacted. Langelo describes the warning signs: ‘If you encounter areas that are soft, muddy and stay that way for days, that’s compaction. The grass will thin and eventually die.’

Parent suggests using this moment in spring for some diagnosis: ‘Because the ground is wet, look for where puddles are forming in your yard,’ he says. ‘Those areas are telling you they are really compacted, and water just sits there.’

Parent also highlights soil amendments for compacted areas. ‘A gypsum-based product will help break up clay-filled soils,’ he says.

‘It will also help break up nutrients trapped in soil and allows them to flush out,’ making them more available for uptake by the grass.

5. Focus On Soil Health

Across all three experts, one theme stands out: healthy lawns start with healthy soil.

‘Healthy soil is a crucial step to produce happy plants, including turf grasses,’ Dionne says. He encourages homeowners to take a longer-term view: ’If you've never had a soil test, have one done. They are easy and well worth the minor expense.’

Parent strongly agrees, calling it the most overlooked step: ‘The biggest mistake I see is not getting a soil test done. Soil tests are super important.’

He adds, ‘It's basically doing blood work for the soil. I need to know what's going on under the ground in order to make it better.’

6. Patience and Observation

Early spring can create a false sense of urgency. However, our experts agree that restraint now leads to better results later. ‘Be patient,’ Dionne advises. ‘Let the soil and lawn wake up and begin to send out roots in search of nutrients. Let it do its thing but pay close attention.’

As Langelo explains, timing is everything. ‘The ideal conditions are waiting until the daytime temperatures are consistently in the 50-degree range,’ she says. ‘You’ll see the grass naturally greening and the soil is thawing.’ Until then, even well-intentioned care can do more harm than good.

And for homeowners eager to reseed or fertilize, Parent offers a practical reminder about jumping the gun: ‘Avoid putting down something too early,’ he suggests. ‘I just don't want somebody to waste the product, then have to buy more later on.’

After a winter like this one, the smartest move isn’t doing more, but doing the right things at the right time.

Northern homeowners are itching to get outside at the first sign of spring, but patience is key. Once warmer temperatures are consistent, then it’s time to plant grass seed and fertilize for the healthiest lawn possible.

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Early spring is an important time for lawn care, and for learning how to wake up a lawn. But over-fertilizing a lawn in spring can do more harm than good, often just as the grass is coming back into active growth. Applying too much feed – particularly high-nitrogen fertilizers – can result in soft, weak grass that looks green initially but is more prone to stress, wear, and drought later in the season.

It can also lead to fertilizer burn, where excess salts draw moisture out of the grass roots, leaving yellow, brown, or scorched patches. In spring, when soils are often still wet, any surplus nutrients are more likely to be washed away, leading to uneven feeding. At the same time, this surge of soft growth creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases and can even encourage weeds.

If you are overseeding, over-fertilizing is especially problematic. High nutrient levels can inhibit seed germination and cause existing grass to grow too quickly, shading out new seedlings before they have a chance to establish. For the best results, it’s far better to take a gentle approach to lawn care in spring. I advise you to take your time and do what’s needed as it’s needed. Follow these four steps and your lawn will thank you for it later.

1. Weed Your Lawn

Without being overly dramatic, early spring is a crucial time for tackling weeds in the lawn. Get rid of them now and you may well be free of weeds for the rest of spring and into summer too.

This weeder from Amazon will make light work of a lawn that’s become over-run with perennial weeds such as dandelions, plantain and creeping buttercup.

Larger roots will leave vacant plugs of soil in your lawn, which are best filled with garden compost, topsoil or a specialist lawn mix like this one from Ace Hardware. If your lawn has a tendency to compact, add sharp sand to aid aeration.

Not too bothered by the odd daisy, buttercup or dandelion in your lawn? Then know that you’re in good company, joining a growing band of biodiversity champions.

Dandelions are one of the best plants for early-spring pollinators, which will thank you for leaving them nectar-rich treats at a time when food sources are scarce. Simply deadhead, or mow, your dandelions before they set seed and they won’t take over.

2. Remove Moss and Thatch

Let’s face it, few lawns are perfect, and most contain at least a little moss or thatch. But what exactly is thatch and how do you dethatch a lawn?

This mixture of decomposed and partly decomposed grass clippings, roots, stems and rhizomes is actually beneficial when it’s less than half an inch (1-2cm) deep, as it brings with it insulation and protects the soil from compaction. It’s this thin layer of thatch that helps to give a lawn a soft, bouncy feel.

If it builds up, however, as a result of too much fertilizer or poor soil conditions, it can stop water and nutrients from reaching the soil and your lawn, encouraging diseases and moss growth.

A small word of warning: if it’s early in the season and thatch is a big problem, give your lawn a couple of weeks after its first cut before you tackle the thatch as it can be a heavy-duty job and you want that grass to be strong and thriving before you go in with a solid rake (you can get a specialist thatching rake from Lowes).

If there’s just a little to be dealt with, then rake it out by hand with a fine metal-tine rake like this rake from Lowes.

3. Re-cut Lawn Edges

The edges of your lawn, where they meet flower beds and borders, can be looking uneven and weathered in spring.

Early spring is a good time to straighten them out and give them the definition they need to shine – again, as long as the soil’s not overly waterlogged. For nice crisp cuts, a sharp edging tool is what’s needed here.

For straight lines – and those inclined to pinpoint accuracy – bamboo canes and a taut line of twine will help you to achieve perfection.

You can shop edging tools at Lowes.

4. Feed Your Lawn Gradually

Provide a steady and consistent supply of nutrients now, without overwhelming your lawn or causing fertilizer burn.

Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, such as the Andersons fertilizer with micronutrients from Amazon, which will kickstart new growth steadily.

As with so many gardening jobs, successful lawn care hinges on timing. So get to know your wider area and, within it, your backyard, and its microclimate, then act accordingly. If it’s still wet and cold, hold off a while before tackling jobs like mowing and reseeding.

Once your lawn is showing signs of life, you can begin to give it the care it will thank you for after a long, wet winter in dormancy.

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You can do more harm than good if you rush your spring lawn care. Best practice is to wait until the soil reaches a specific temperature. Here, lawn professionals reveal what that is, and which seasonal maintenance tasks should be done at certain temperatures.

When lawn temperatures reach 50°F, the grass starts growing, and so do weeds. That is the level after which to start mowing, fertilizing, overseeding, and using pre-emergent treatments to combat weeds.

Going too early with your lawn care poses many risks, and you can damage the lawn. If you are planning your spring lawn care, checking the lawn temperatures ensures you don’t do anything you’ll later regret. I spoke to turf experts about lawn temperatures and how they must dictate when you perform certain maintenance tasks.

The Lawn Temperature to Look For

You can do some real damage if you start doing any lawn care before the ground is ready. Even walking on frozen grass breaks the blades and compacts the ground, so you can only imagine what would happen if you tried to aerate, scarify, or mow in this scenario.

An interesting point to consider: snow doesn’t damage a lawn itself. In fact, it can insulate the grass, but human activity does do damage – so stay off your turf until it defrosts when the temperatures rise.

The best way to know when to start lawn maintenance is to monitor the soil temperature and look out for signs that the grass is starting to grow again for the new season. But what is the perfect lawn temperature to look out for that signals it may be time to start thinking about spring lawn care?

Mike Goatley, Virginia Cooperative Extension turfgrass specialist, identifies 50°F as the temperature when both grass and weeds start growing in your lawn.

‘When soil temperatures reach 50°F as we head into spring, we have a biological temperature in place that is going to result in the growth of both cool-season and warm-season turfgrasses,’ says the lawn expert.

‘Cool-season grasses will respond to the temperature first, but warm-season grasses will eventually also respond to the consistently warming temperatures and longer days.’

Once the grass starts actively growing, it is the best time to think about essential maintenance tasks like aerating, dethatching, mowing, and fertilizing your lawn in spring.

You can monitor the temperature with a lawn soil thermometer, such as this 4-in-1 soil meter from Amazon that tells you temperature, moisture levels, pH, and sunlight. Simply place it into the soil, and it reveals key information on a large LCD screen.

When it comes to cutting the grass, mowing a dormant lawn or wet winter grass is a winter lawn care mistake that risks harming the grass’s health, and you may be left with bare patches come later in the season. Don’t start mowing the lawn in spring until it is dry and actively growing, which it will do once the lawn temperature reaches 50-55°F, depending on the type of turfgrass you have.

Even if the temperatures reach the right levels, you don’t want to do any work on a waterlogged lawn. If you have puddling water and mud patches, stay off the affected area until the water drains or evaporates away, as you’ll cause more damage and make a mess if you try to repair the lawn while it is still in that condition.

Pros Reveal the Best Temperatures for Seasonal Lawn Tasks

When the ground has defrosted and the soil warms in spring, it is time to aerate and dethatch the lawn as part of any seasonal regime.

There are also three other key jobs to do promptly once the soil temperature reaches a specific level that will help you have a luscious lawn to enjoy come summer.

The Ideal Lawn Temperature for Treating a Lawn for Weeds

Once the lawn temperature hits the ideal for grass to start growing, so will weeds. If you want to use pre-emergent treatments for common lawn weeds, like crabgrass, tracking soil temperature helps you apply them at the perfect time.

‘Pre-emergent treatments should be applied just before soil temperatures reach about 55°F for several days in a row, as this is when summer weeds - like crabgrass - start germinating,’ advises Brian Feldman, Senior Director of Field Operations at TruGreen.

If you want an indicator other than lawn temperature, Mike Goatley recommends looking in your yard or others in the neighborhood for one flowering shrub. He says: ‘Homeowners should never forget one of the best predictors to watch for in the landscape is the forsythia.

‘When this plant is near full bloom, that is a strong indicator that conditions are right for crabgrass germination.’

To get rid of crabgrass, homeowners can use a pre-emergent weed killer in spring, like this one at Amazon that prevents a long list of common lawn weeds, including crabgrass, chickweed, foxtail, and more.

The Ideal Lawn Temperature for Fertilizing a Lawn

As the lawn temperature wakes the grass from its winter slumber, the window opens to fertilize the lawn. If you want a thick, green summer lawn, feeding the grass early in the year provides all the essential nutrients it needs, but you don’t want to go too early with any product.

‘As soil temperatures begin to warm, it creates the ideal conditions for applying slow-release granular fertilizers, says Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man. ‘Applying fertilizer too early, before the grass is actively growing, can place unnecessary stress on the lawn and reduce its effectiveness.’

The soil temperature for fertilizer is between 50°F and 70°F. If you want to feed the lawn just once, this full-season lawn fertilizer, available at Amazon, contains nitrogen for lush growth and iron to green the lawn, which it slowly releases over four months.

The Ideal Lawn Temperature for Overseeding a Lawn

Brian Feldman adds that ‘soil temperatures should reach 50°F–65°F for optimal spring overseeding’ if you want to fill bare patches and thicken up an existing lawn.

When the soil temperature for overseeding hits, you can seed and then fertilize if you are using a starter fertilizer (such as this starter food for new grass, available at Walmart) designed for use when sowing grass seeds.

But avoid using weed-and-feed products when overseeding, as they contain ingredients that stop the seeds from germinating.

What to Shop

Once the lawn temperature hits 50-60°F, the window to start watering a lawn in spring also opens. Many climates get sufficient seasonal rain from Mother Nature to keep a lawn hydrated and ensure it grows healthily.

But the occasional watering in a warm spring may be required, especially if you have laid turf in spring or plant seed grass to establish a new lawn or overseed an existing one. Keep a close eye for signs of a dehydrated lawn, which may have a dull green color, and on the forecasts to assess the need to water in spring.

Meet the Experts

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Have you ever wondered how professional gardeners seem to have the most perfect edges between their neat lawn and productive flower borders? Well, now you can get the look too, using the 3-inch garden rule for edging – a trick that involves digging a narrow trench to keep the two areas separated.

Even the most carefully planned garden ideas can lose some of their impact if the boundary between lawn and border becomes a little blurred as grass creeps over your once-clean outline. While many gardeners turn to metal or plastic edging ideas to keep things neat, the 3-inch rule is a simpler (and traditional) technique that uses nothing more than a sharp spade (like this from Lowe's) to create a clean, defined boundary between lawn and border.

The rule refers to the depth of the trench that is cut between turf and planting bed. Three inches is enough to sever the grass roots that spread into borders, leaving you with an elegant, almost architectural line between border and lawn. Because the technique relies on spadework rather than buying in and installing materials, it is actually quite easy to maintain once established. Here's how to do it.

What Is the 3-Inch Garden Edging Rule?

The 3-inch garden edging rule is essentially a technique where you dig a narrow trench between your lawn and border to keep grass from creeping over.

The ‘three inches’ refers to the depth of the trench that separates the lawn from the border. Not only is this deep enough to sever most grass roots; it also creates a small gap between lawn and soil, casting a shadow that makes the border line more defined.

'We usually opt for a clean cut of around three inches depth once the lawn becomes established, as this offers greater flexibility in terms of shape of the lawn, it is often easier in terms of maintenance, (as stolons often creep over or under edging), and to top it off, is much cheaper,' says Alexander Warren-Gash of Mashamba Garden Design

'Once the edging cut is done, maintenance is relatively easy and can usually be done by a strimmer, with occasional detail work required,' he adds.

Well-sharpened essential gardening tools are required for this job. A half-moon edger (like this from Amazon) is ideal since its curved blade makes it easier to follow a curved border.

A flat spade (like this one from Lowe's) can work just as well, if not better, in a straight-edged bed. The cleaner the cut into the soil, the neater the finished edge will be.

Having sharp tools will make the difference between a clean cut of turf and a ragged one, so make sure to sharpen your tools when they become dull.

How to Do It

There are just four quick steps to implementing the 3-inch rule when edging your flower bed.

1. Mark Out the Area

If you are creating a new lawn edge, you need to mark out the shape first.

A dusting of sand or a garden hose laid out in the required shape can be used to outline where you intend to cut the turf. You can also use rope (like this rope from Lowe's).

Remember to step back to assess your shape before you take that first cut. A smooth, flowing line will be easier to maintain than irregular or complicated curves.

2. Make the First Cut

To make your first cut, position the edging spade along your marked line and press your foot on the spade firmly.

The cut into the turf should be to a depth of around three inches (for precise measurements, use this shovel with a depth marker from Burpee for the first cut)

Keep the blade straight, so the face of the lawn edge remains crisp and aligned. Working along the border, repeating a continuous and smooth line that separates the lawn and the planting bed.

3. Create an Angled Trench

This is the essential cut to ensure the grass doesn’t spread back into the bed.

After you have established the vertical cut, angle your spade slightly back toward the lawn and remove a narrow wedge of soil from beneath the turf.

This hollow is essentially a shallow trench that prevents the grass from spreading back into the bed and what produces the ‘shadow line’ that emphasizes the edge, making it look sharper and well-defined.

4. Tidy Up Loose Soil

Once the trench has been cut, use a trowel or small shovel to remove loose soil and tidy up the line you have dug.

You should aim for a clean, vertical face on the border side and a neat strip of soil sitting above the cut. Brushing away soil or trimming uneven sections will give a finished appearance.

How to Maintain Your Lawn Edge

With your 3-inch trench now in place, it's important to keep on top of maintenance so it stays neat and defined.

1. Use Edging Shears to Tidy Overhanging Grass

After mowing your lawn, you’ll want to neaten the edges of your border to keep it looking crisp.

Use long-handled edging shears (like this on Amazon) to snip back the blades of grass that the mower didn’t reach.

Regular mowing will help keep the grass in an upright growth and there will be less chance of the grass flopping over your carefully cut border.

2. Re-Cut the Edge Regularly

If you need to neaten the soil edge, simply place your edging spade back into the original line and refresh the cut of soil.

Doing this every few weeks during the growing season will keep the boundary defined.

3. Remove Weeds

Small weeds and occasional grass seedlings can spoil the look of your trench and if left untended, will begin to blur the boundary between lawn and border.

There are lots of ways to get rid of weeds. Regular hand-weeding (for example with this Fiskars hand weeding tool on Amazon) and light hoeing will keep the trench clear.

Our guide to keeping weeds out of flower beds has more advice.

4. Keep the Trench Clear of Soil

Soil from the border may gradually fall into the trench, reducing the gap between lawn and garden bed. Removing the soil periodically with a hand trowel will help keep the trench neat.

In addition, if you are adding mulch to your beds, take care to ensure there is a gap between the mulched bed and your lawn edge to help maintain a clear boundary.

5. Give it a Seasonal Refresh

Even with careful routine maintenance, it is still useful to re-define the edge in spring and then repeat later in the growing season.

Simply follow the original line with an edging spade (you can also find them at Walmart) and tidy along the trench, removing a sliver of soil as you go along to restore the neat finish.

What to Shop

This simple technique can make a surprising difference to the appearance of a garden. Think of your crisply edged lawn as a frame for your flower and vegetable borders, allowing the shapes of the beds to stand out.

If you want to enhance your border even more without lots of effort, take a look at our guide to low-maintenance garden border ideas.

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If your lawn isn’t impressing as much as you’d like, the problem may be hiding underneath the surface. That is why lawn care professionals all recommend carrying out a lawn soil test in spring as the key to having a healthier summer lawn.

A luscious, green lawn is the result of careful attention. It needs the right balance of nutrients, thanks to healthy soil and the right pH level. If the nutrient levels aren’t right or the pH is too high or too low, issues can arise. That is why a lawn soil test reveals vital details and gives you the chance to rectify problems and adopt the right fertilizing approach.

Consider a lawn soil test a vital cog in your lawn care. Testing the soil every few years tells you all you need to know about your lawn and helps you tailor your maintenance to guarantee a beautiful summer lawn to enjoy. Here, we look at why a lawn soil test is crucial and how to do it.

3 Benefits to a Lawn Soil Test

Lawn care experts all recommend getting your soil tested for the following reasons:

It Shows Nutrient Deficiencies

A lawn soil test gives you a great overall indication of your soil health and the levels of essential plant nutrients in the ground. For a lush, green lawn, it needs a balance of the vital macronutrients of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as micronutrients, such as iron, magnesium, calcium, and more.

The lawn soil test will show you which nutrients are lacking and which are in excess. As a lawn requires a specific balance, this information is crucial to any aspirations for a healthy lawn that can withstand the rigors of summer.

‘Soil testing can help prep your lawn for summer by showing you exactly what nutrients your soil is missing, says Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man. ‘This lets you apply the right fertilizer and amendments before summer stress, leading to stronger roots, better drought tolerance, and healthier growth during heat.’

A plan to boost soil nutrients can be put in place using this information, which leads to a beautiful, healthy lawn to enjoy in summer.

It Tells You Your Soil pH

Testing the pH of soil can make a difference to how your lawn looks in the summer. As John Gualtiere, President at Hudson Landscape Contractors, says: ‘A lot of summer lawn issues are due to pH levels that are too high or low.’

This is because soil pH directly impacts how efficiently your grass absorbs nutrients. If the pH is off, the roots won’t take in the nutrients as well, even after you fertilize a lawn.

A typical lawn wants a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 6.0 to 7.0. At this ideal level, the grass can take in all the nutrients it needs to grow strong and healthy.

It is when the pH gets outside of this range that issues can arise. Whether too acidic or alkaline, certain nutrients are ‘locked up’ and the lawn cannot absorb the nutrients. This can lead to a yellowing lawn, bare patches, increased susceptibility to diseases and pests, or weeds taking over due to weak grass.

There are ways to raise or lower the pH highlighted during a lawn soil test so your lawn can access all the nutrients it needs. For example, you can make soil more acidic by adding sulfur or iron sulfate (you can get iron sulfate at Amazon), or make it more alkaline by adding lime.

It Helps You Tailor Your Lawn Care

With the findings of a lawn soil test in hand, you can adopt a tailored approach to your spring lawn care. There is no point in wasting money on products that your lawn doesn’t need when you fertilize your lawn in spring.

‘Soil testing is really important so that you know what's going on with your soil, so you know what to actually apply,’ advises Matt Cline of HillSide Lawn Service. ’Without knowing what your pH is, without knowing what your macro and secondary nutrient levels are, it makes it really difficult to get an effective lawn care program.’

A more targeted approach ensures you supplement any missing nutrients so your lawn gets all it needs to grow strongly, is more resilient, and looks its best for the summer.

It also reduces the likelihood of over-fertilizing a lawn, which can leave patches due to fertilizer burn and make the grass susceptible to pests and diseases. Excess nutrients can also run off into the environment or groundwater, and a tailored approach stops unnecessary applications of fertilizer from troubling the local environment.

How Often Should You Do a Lawn Soil Test?

You don’t need to do a lawn soil test every year. However, if you have long-term issues and want to conduct regular checks to get on top of the problem, or need to track improvements year-on-year, regular checks can be beneficial.

In most cases, a test every few years is sufficient for a healthy balance and a happy lawn. Mike Goatley, Virginia Cooperative Extension turfgrass specialist, says: ‘The first thing to do for top-notch turf is get a soil test done.’

‘If you haven’t performed a soil test on your lawn within the last three years, we recommend you have your soil tested,’ he adds.

You can do a lawn soil test at any time of year, but it is advisable to wait at least three months after applying lime, fertilizer, or organic matter (such as compost or manure) for conclusive results.

Early spring is an ideal time to do a lawn soil test, as it provides you with vital information to make amendments and tailor your spring fertilizing to give strong results come summer.

How to Test Your Lawn Soil

There are different testing methods to pick from, ranging from at-home test kits to sending samples to a soil-testing laboratory. For a conclusive test, you want to collect soil samples, each four inches deep, from 6-8 different areas of your lawn and mix them in a bucket ready for testing.

Each state in the US has an agricultural extension service, usually tied to a university, to which you can send soil samples for analysis. This option offers detailed results and often costs between $10 and $30. Check your local extension offices to find out more about services and costs.

There are commercial companies that offer laboratory analysis tests. Just like with the extension officer, you mail in soil samples and get in-depth results. This MySoil soil test kit, available at Amazon, is an example of such services. It measures 13 nutrient levels and soil pH, and gives you tailored recommendations.

The most basic option is home test kits, which offer quicker, but less accurate results. A test like this Rapitest soil test kit, also available at Amazon, gives you an indication of the nutrients and pH levels, and is suitable for beginners. However, they are not as thorough or reliable as laboratory results.

Shop Spring Lawn Fertilizers

March is traditionally when many gardeners start cutting the lawn again after winter. Once the frosts have passed and the temperatures warm in early spring, the grass starts to grow again for the new season.

This often means it is due for a first cut to keep it neat. The key is to set the mower height high on spring lawns and avoid removing more than a third of the grass blades.

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