Salvia is a late-summer garden favorite, bringing vibrant color to flower beds, borders, and containers just as many other perennials begin to fade.

In September, a few simple maintenance tasks can help keep plants flowering, encourage healthy growth, and prepare them for the colder months ahead. If you grow salvias, it’s worth knowing that different types of salvia can have very different care requirements, particularly when it comes to pruning and overwintering.

In my own garden, I grow Russian Sage, which you can buy on Trees.com, a trusted source for plants. But if you want a true salvia, I recommend the Snow Hill Wood Sage from Plant Addicts.

From deadheading spent blooms to taking cuttings, these are the salvia jobs worth adding to your September gardening checklist.

1. Keep Deadheading for More Blooms

If your salvia is still flowering, continue removing spent flower spikes, or deadhead salvia, regularly. Regular deadheading encourages the plant to put its energy into producing new flowers rather than setting seed, which can help extend the display well into fall.

For clean, precise cuts, use sharp pruners such as the Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruner or Scotts Precision Hand Pruner, both available on Amazon. Cut faded flower stalks back to just above a healthy set of leaves or a branching point, taking care not to damage new growth.

2. Give Container Salvias Some Attention

If you grow salvia in pots, plants can run short of nutrients toward the end of the growing season, particularly after months of flowering.

If they’re still actively growing and blooming, a light application of a balanced fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant Food or Jobe’s Organics All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart, can provide a useful boost. Avoid heavy fertilizing late in the season, though. Encouraging lots of tender new growth as temperatures drop can leave container-grown salvias more vulnerable to cold damage.

3. Check for Pests and Disease

Take a few minutes to inspect your plants for common pests and problems such as aphids, powdery mildew, or other signs of stress. Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves and areas where foliage is crowded.

For minor pest infestations, insecticidal soap such as Bonide Insecticidal Soap can help control aphids and other soft-bodied insects, while Bonide Copper Fungicide can help manage certain fungal diseases. Remove badly affected leaves and improve air circulation where possible. Water at the base of the plant rather than over the foliage, especially as cooler, wetter weather arrives.

4. Don't Cut Salvia Back Too Early

It can be tempting to cut perennials back as soon as the first signs of fall appear, but there's no need to rush with salvia that's still healthy and flowering.

If you’re wondering when to prune salvia, leaving foliage and stems in place for longer allows the plant to continue photosynthesizing and can provide additional protection as temperatures begin to fall.

When the time comes, a pair of sharp Haus & Garten Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon can make clean, precise cuts. Wait until flowering has finished and your particular variety is ready for its fall pruning.

5. Prepare Tender Salvias for Winter

Not all salvias have the same cold tolerance, so check the hardiness of your specific variety before deciding how to overwinter it. If you're wondering how to winterize salvia, tender types – including some popular ornamental salvias grown as annuals in colder parts of the US – may need to be moved indoors or into a protected space before the first frost.

Container plants are particularly easy to shelter. A lightweight frost protection cover, such as the Agfabric Plant Cover, can provide an extra layer of protection for plants that remain outdoors. If your salvia is hardy in your USDA Hardiness Zone, it may be able to remain outdoors with little intervention, although a layer of mulch around the base, such as Scotts Nature Scapes Color Enhanced Mulch from Lowe's, can help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations.

6. Take Cuttings for Next Year

September can be a good time to propagate salvia from cuttings, particularly if you have a plant you want to keep growing next season.

Take healthy, non-flowering shoots and root them in a well-draining propagation mix, such as Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix. Keep the cuttings somewhere warm and bright but protected from extreme temperatures while they establish.

For gardeners in colder USDA Hardiness Zones, overwintering young plants under cover can be an easy way to build up your collection without buying new plants each spring.

September isn’t the time to give up on your salvias. Keep deadheading, watch for pests and disease, and protect tender varieties before the first frost. Most importantly, know your salvia’s hardiness and your USDA Hardiness Zone. Tailor your fall care to your climate, and you’ll give your plants the best chance of returning next year.

Whether you're planning a fall porch display of pots, or want your garden chrysanthemums to look their best, there are a few things you can do this month and next to boost your blooms.

Loved by many, this so-called queen of fall flowers comes into its own this season. Tough and resilient, with an array of vibrant colors and petal shapes, mums love the crisper, shorter days. Yet, they will still need some attention to look their best.

If you know how to grow chrysanthemums, or care for the potted varieties, like this beautiful Matchsticks chrysanthemum plant from Burpee, they will reward you with a spectacular show. Here's what gardening experts suggest to keep mums looking fabulous this fall.

1. Allow Plenty of Sunshine

When planning your outdoor fall décor ideas, carefully consider where to place your pots, so they can thrive – and be enjoyed. Chrysanthemums require at least six hours of sunshine per day to flourish, whether they are planted in the ground or in containers.

'If you're planting perennial mums, choose a location with good air circulation and plenty of autumn sunshine,' says horticulturalist, Sharon Murphy, founder, Gardening with Sharon.

'Avoid crowded areas where foliage stays damp for long periods because that is a perfect breeding ground for disease.

'Place nursery-grown potted chrysanthemums in sunny areas of a deck, patio, or porch where they will get their fill of sunshine.'

This gorgeous Garden Mums Quart Pot offer from Plant Addicts allows you to mix and match colors and cultivars to create a distinct display.

2. Water Plants Deeply

Unless you have had a significant amount of rainfall in your region, it's highly likely your mums will need watering. In most areas the ground will still be dry and pots will certainly need to be checked regularly for moisture levels.

'Keep watering your mums deeply once or twice a week for as as long as the flowers are still blooming,' says Jessica Hall, co-founder, Harmony Harvest Farm. 'Maintaining consistent moisture will prevent drought stress. Mums are very, very thirsty but they don't like wet feet, so water when the top two inches of soil is dry.'

This steel watering can from Ace Hardware has a retro style and holds two gallons.

Sharon explains that a good soaking less often is much better than frequent little sprinkles, especially for in-the-ground mums.

'Chrysanthemums have fairly shallow root systems, and flowering plants can dry out surprisingly quickly,' says Sharon. 'Soaking encourages the roots to grow deeper and helps prevent the plant from drying out between waterings.

'Although, avoid spilling water over the foliage and flowers to prevent disease development.'

Like other plants, potted chrysanthemums tend to dry out much faster than those growing in the ground. 'This is because their roots may be pot bound and are confined to a relatively small amount of soil,' adds Sharon. 'Give them a thorough drink of water as soon as you get them home but don't let containers sit in water-soaked drip trays.'

Tim Pollak, Manager, Plant Production at Chicago Botanic Garden points out that if plants are allowed to dry out, the flowers and future buds may not fully recover.

'Don't rely on rain, as the plants are full, and create an umbrella effect over the root zones,' says Tim. 'Water thoroughly as often as required.

'If planting in containers, use a larger container than the plants came in. This will help with keeping them moist and preventing them from drying quickly.

'Always make sure the containers have drain holes before planting, as this will prevent them from staying too wet and developing root diseases.'

If you're yet to buy your potted mums, this Mammoth Daisy Red from Burpee has bold red petals and bright yellow stamens for a vibrant show.

3. Feed Mindfully

Mums planted in flower beds may require a light feed this month, but go easy and choose a low nitrogen formula.

'You can feed the plants once or twice during the fall,' says Tim. 'If planting in the ground, this will also promote root growth and help them potentially survive through the winter.'

'Switching your fertilizer to a bloom booster formulation with lower nitrogen and higher phosphorus and potassium will encourage flower blooming on your mums rather than vegetative growth,' says Jessica.

This flower fertilizer from Lowe's should do the trick. However, stop feeding them as soon your mums start flowering.

'Too much nitrogen late in the season can encourage soft, leafy growth when what we really want is flowers,' says Sharon. 'Avoid heavy feeding in late summer and fall. Also, flowering potted Chrysanthemums do not require additional fertilizer.'

4. Deadhead and Disbud

Deadheading chrysanthemums may reveal unopened buds below, and will keep the plant tidy. So whichever varieties you're growing, it's worth removing spent flowers.

'In the garden, simply snip off faded flower heads just above a healthy set of leaves or branching point,' says Sharon. 'Don't worry about removing every single faded bloom in a large stand of plants, because a quick tidy-up every few days is enough to keep everything looking fresh.

'There's no need to be overly aggressive either; you're removing the finished flowers, not reshaping the plant.'

'If you want larger, show-quality flowers, you can also 'disbud' by removing the side buds so the central bloom grows larger,' adds Jessica.

These Fiskars Micro-Tip Snips from Ace Hardware have soft grip handles for comfort and stainless steel blades for clean cuts.

'Potted mums bloom once and then they are done,' says Tim. 'Though removing older faded flowers can keep the plants looking good through the fall.'

5. Protect Your Mums From Frost

Chrysanthemums like cooler weather conditions, but the flowers are much more vulnerable to frost than the plant itself. So keep an eye on the forecast and have a frost cloth at the ready.

'A light frost doesn't necessarily mean the end of your perennial chrysanthemums,' says Sharon. 'Protecting the plants from repeated frosts can buy you considerably more flowering time.'

'When a frost warning is issued, cover in-the-ground plants with a lightweight frost cloth, old sheet, or similar breathable material resting on stakes or supports before temperatures drop.'

These 36" bamboo stakes from Ace Hardware are a good height for most mums.

'The covering can be removed once temperatures rise above freezing the following morning,' says Sharon.

'Potted chrysanthemums do best when they are protected from all extremes; hot, cold, dry, or wet weather. Gather them into a sheltered spot when there's a frost warning and return them to their sunny spot once the weather warms up the next day.

'As the weather becomes consistently cold, the nursery-grown container eventually wears down, flowers less, and finishes, and that's perfectly normal.'

6. Buy Potted Plants in Bud

To extend a potted Chrysanthemum display, it's best to buy your plants before they have had a chance to fully bloom.

'Chrysanthemums are usually hardy in zones 5-9, so in colder zones, the nursery-grown pots are definitely the mode of choice,' says Sharon. 'Choose plants with mostly unopened buds amongst a few open flowers and remove the finished flowers to encourage unopened buds to release.'

Tim also suggests looking for plants that are in bud, and just beginning to show flower color to get the longest bloom period out of potted mums.

'At this point, the plants are already fully grown and won’t get any larger,' says Tim. 'Most stores bring fresh plants every week, so try to purchase the freshest plants, and stay away from the older or discounted plants.'

Shop Outdoor Planters

With chrysanthemums, the choice of colors and cultivars is vast. From small daisy-like flowers to big blousy blooms, in soft or strong shades, this plant allows you to flex your creativity for a fabulous fall display.

'Chrysanthemums don't ask for much, but they reward a little attention with weeks of colour when many other garden plants are calling it quits,' says Sharon. 'Keep the roots evenly moist, deadhead regularly, give them plenty of sun, and protect the flowers when frost threatens.

'With a little care, you can keep that burst of autumn colour going long after the first cool nights arrive.'

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

September is a transition month for peace lilies across the United States. In some parts of the country, summer heat is still going strong; elsewhere, cooler nights are already signaling the arrival of fall. Indoors, changes in daylight, air conditioning and eventually home heating can all affect how your peace lily grows.

I have the Peace Lily Plant from Trees.com (formerly Fast-Growing Trees) in my own home, and September is a good reminder that even an easy-care houseplant benefits from a few seasonal adjustments. Understanding the basics of peace lily care can help keep the plant healthy as it moves from summer into fall, whether it spends the warmer months on a shaded porch or grows indoors year-round.

1. Move Your Peace Lily to the Right Light

As the days grow shorter, your peace lily may need a brighter spot than it did in the height of summer. When deciding where to place a peace lily, look for bright, indirect light near an east- or north-facing window. A few feet from a bright south- or west-facing window can also work, provided the plant is protected from intense direct afternoon sun.

If you've kept your peace lily outdoors for the summer, don't put it straight into full sun. Peace lilies prefer filtered or dappled light, and sudden exposure to strong sunlight can scorch their leaves. A plant stand can also help you position your peace lily at the right height and move it closer to a brighter window as the seasons change. The IKEA OLIVBLAD plant stand is one practical option; its tiered design makes it easy to display plants at different heights.

2. Bring Outdoor Peace Lilies Inside

For gardeners who move houseplants outdoors during the warmer months, September is an important month to start planning the move indoors. The timing depends heavily on where you live. In northern states and higher elevations, cool nights may arrive early. In warmer parts of the South and Southwest, outdoor conditions may remain suitable much longer.

Before bringing a peace lily indoors, check the leaves, stems and soil for insects. Look underneath leaves for pests or webbing, and remove any dead or damaged foliage. Rinse the plant gently if necessary. If you're looking for a peace lily to add to your indoor collection, the Costa Farms Spathiphyllum Peace Lily from The Home Depot is one option.

Keep the plant separate from other houseplants for several days if you've had pest problems. If you find insects or mites, a product such as BioAdvanced Houseplant Insect & Mite Control from Amazon can help address common pest problems when used as directed.

3. Adjust Watering as Winter Approaches

Don't automatically continue your summer watering schedule throughout September. If temperatures are falling and daylight is decreasing, your peace lily may use water more slowly. On the other hand, a plant in a warm, air-conditioned home may still dry out quickly. If you're wondering how to water a peace lily, the best approach is to check the potting mix rather than watering on a fixed schedule.

A simple XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you check moisture levels below the surface, while a Haws Indoor Plastic Watering Can makes it easier to water slowly and evenly when the plant needs a drink. When the upper portion of the potting mix feels slightly dry, water thoroughly and allow excess water to drain from the pot. Avoid allowing the plant to sit in a saucer of standing water. Consistently soggy soil can contribute to root problems.

4. Start Preparing for Indoor Heating

In northern states and colder regions, September is also the time to think ahead to the heating season. Forced-air heating can make indoor air considerably drier, which may cause peace lily leaves to develop brown edges or tips. Before the furnace starts running regularly, consider moving the plant away from heat vents, fireplaces and radiators.

A Levoit Classic 300S Ultrasonic Humidifier from Amazon can help add moisture to the air and maintain a more comfortable environment for tropical houseplants during the dry winter months.

5. Ease Back on Fertilizer

A peace lily that's actively producing new leaves or flowers may still benefit from fertilizer in early September. If you're looking for a peace lily fertilizer, choose a balanced, water-soluble formula and follow the product label rather than automatically increasing the amount. Options such as Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Espoma Organic Indoor! Plant Food from Amazon can be convenient choices for feeding houseplants.

As growth slows later in fall, however, there's usually less need to fertilize frequently. Continuing heavy feeding when the plant isn't actively growing can result in excess salts accumulating in the potting mix. Follow the fertilizer label and reduce feeding as the plant's growth naturally slows. A healthy peace lily doesn't need to be pushed into constant growth.

6. Clean Those Big Leaves

September is an excellent time to give your peace lily a foliage makeover. Its broad leaves collect dust, pollen and other debris, especially after spending the summer near an open window or outdoors. Wipe the leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth.

A microfiber cleaning cloth from Amazon works well for lifting dust without being rough on the foliage, while an amber glass plant mister can be useful for lightly dampening leaves before wiping them clean. This removes accumulated dust and gives the plant a fresher appearance as you bring it indoors for fall. Skip leaf-shine products, which aren't necessary and can leave unwanted residue on the foliage.

7. Check for Common Houseplant Pests

Before moving an outdoor peace lily inside, inspect it carefully for pests. Look for:

• Spider mites and fine webbing
• Mealybugs that resemble small white cottony spots
• Scale insects attached to stems or leaves
• Fungus gnats around damp potting soil
• Sticky residue or unexplained leaf damage
• Finding pests before the plant joins your indoor collection can save you a much bigger problem later

8. Prune Yellow or Damaged Leaves

September is a good time to tidy your peace lily before it settles into its fall growing routine. If you're wondering how to prune a peace lily, start by removing completely yellow, brown or badly damaged leaves with clean, sharp scissors. Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon are useful for making precise cuts around stems and foliage, while Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruning Shears from The Home Depot are another option for thicker stems.

Cut the leaf stem near its base rather than simply trimming the damaged portion. You can also remove spent flowers once they have faded. This keeps the plant looking neat and can encourage it to focus on healthy foliage and new growth.

As summer comes to a close, help your peace lily transition smoothly into fall. Adjust watering as daylight decreases, provide bright, indirect light, and protect the plant from cold drafts and extreme temperatures.

If your peace lily spent the summer outdoors, inspect it for pests and bring it inside before chilly weather arrives. Keep it away from heating and cooling vents, clean dusty leaves, watch for pests, and reduce fertilizer as growth slows. If the plant is root-bound, this is also a good time to repot a peace lily before fall growth slows.

A little seasonal care now can help keep your peace lily healthy, lush and vibrant through the cooler months.

September might feel a little early to be thinking about Christmas, but if you want your Christmas cactus to put on a spectacular display this holiday season, now is the time to give it some attention.

Unlike a traditional desert cactus, the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is native to the tropical forests of Brazil, where it grows in humid conditions and bright, filtered light. While it spends the warmer months putting on leafy growth, the shorter days and cooler temperatures of fall provide an important signal that it’s time to start preparing to bloom. This makes September a surprisingly important month for Christmas cactus care.

A few simple changes to its care now can encourage it to set flower buds, giving you a much better chance of enjoying a plant covered in colorful blooms around the holidays.

1. Give Your Christmas Cactus Cooler Nights

One of the most important things your Christmas cactus needs in September is a change in temperature. As summer fades, cooler nights signal that it’s time to shift from leafy growth toward flower-bud formation. Aim for nighttime temperatures around 55–65°F to help encourage flowering.

When deciding where to place a Christmas cactus, choose a bright spot with plenty of indirect light that stays cooler at night. An unused bedroom or enclosed porch can work well. The AcuRite Indoor Digital Thermometer & Hygrometer from Walmart makes it easy to keep an eye on temperature and humidity.

Keep the plant away from heating vents, fireplaces, drafty doors, and cold windows, as sudden temperature changes can cause stress and bud drop. If you need to raise it closer to a window, the LÅNGNÄBB Plant stand from IKEA offers an easy, space-saving solution.

2. Start Cutting Back on Water

September is also the time to rethink your watering routine. As fall approaches, start cutting back slightly and let the top layer of soil dry between waterings. This helps encourage flowering without leaving the roots sitting in soggy soil.

When deciding how to water a Christmas cactus, don't follow a rigid schedule. Instead, check the soil first. If the top inch feels dry, it's time for a thorough drink; if it's still damp, wait a little longer. A slim-spouted Fiskars Indoor Watering Can, available on Amazon, makes it easy to direct water precisely into the pot, while a RainPoint Digital Plant Moisture Meter can take the guesswork out of checking the soil.

Christmas cactus isn't a desert plant and shouldn't be left bone dry. At the same time, consistently waterlogged soil can lead to root rot, so good drainage is essential.

3. Give It Bright Light During the Day

Your Christmas cactus still needs plenty of light in September, but bright, indirect light is preferable to harsh, direct sunshine. An east- or north-facing window is ideal, while a brighter south- or west-facing window may need some protection from strong afternoon rays.

Light is particularly important now because your plant needs to experience the changing day length of fall. As September progresses, longer, uninterrupted periods of darkness help encourage flower-bud formation. If your home doesn't get enough natural light, a small Feit Electric LED Grow Light can provide supplemental illumination during the day without taking up much space.

Just be mindful of where you position it. A Christmas cactus sitting beside a lamp that's switched on late into the evening may not get the clear day-and-night signal it needs to flower. If you're looking for a more flexible option, a clip-on SANSI Grow Light can be positioned over the plant during daylight hours and switched off at night.

4. But Let the Nights Get Dark

The shortening days of September are an important part of your Christmas cactus's flowering process. As nights become longer, the plant gets the seasonal cue that winter is approaching.

You don't necessarily need to move your plant into a closet or create an elaborate blackout routine, but Christmas cactus in the dark should have a long, uninterrupted rest period each night to encourage buds. I recommend around 12–14 hours of darkness for several weeks, while keeping the plant in bright, indirect light during the day.

In most homes, simply keeping it away from bright artificial light late into the evening may be enough. If your space stays illuminated at night, a light-blocking curtain (such as this blackout option from Amazon) can help create a darker environment without moving the plant, particularly if it's sitting near a window.

5. Stop Fertilizing by the End of September

If you've been feeding your Christmas cactus regularly through spring and summer, September is the time to start winding down. In my personal experience, I recommend fertilizing during the active growing season, then easing off as fall approaches so the plant can shift its energy toward flowering rather than producing lots of new leafy growth.

If you still need to fertilize Christmas cactus before stopping for the season, choose a fertilizer formulated for cacti and succulents and follow the label directions carefully. The Espoma Organic Cactus! Plant Food is a gentle option for indoor cacti, while the Ferti-lome Houseplant Hero Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, available at Lowe's, is another option designed specifically for these plants.

By the end of September, stop feeding and let your Christmas cactus settle into its pre-flowering period. It may feel counterintuitive to withhold fertilizer when you're hoping for more flowers, but the seasonal shift in light, temperature, watering, and feeding is precisely what helps signal that it's time to switch from growing to blooming.

6. Don't Move It Once Buds Appear

Once those tiny flower buds finally appear, resist the temptation to move your plant around the house. If you're wondering why buds are falling off your Christmas cactus, sudden changes in temperature, light, or watering could be to blame. When buds begin to form, return your Christmas cactus to warmer conditions of around 65–69°F and keep its environment as consistent as possible.

Keep the plant in the same bright, indirect light and away from cold drafts, heating vents, fireplaces, and other sources of temperature fluctuations. It’s also best to avoid rotating or repotting it once buds have formed, as even small changes can disturb developing buds.

If you want to show off your Christmas cactus when it begins flowering, choose its eventual holiday position carefully and leave it there. With steady temperatures, consistent light, and the right watering routine, you’ll give those buds the best chance of developing into the colorful blooms you’ve been waiting for.

The secret to a spectacular Christmas cactus isn't what you do once the first flowers appear – it's how you care for it in the weeks beforehand. September is the time to give your plant the seasonal cues it needs: cooler nights, slightly less water, bright daytime light, longer periods of darkness, and a pause from fertilizer.

Get those conditions right now, and your Christmas cactus can quietly prepare for its big moment. When those first colorful blooms finally unfurl around the holidays, that little bit of extra attention in September will have been well worth it.

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My coneflowers (Echinacea) are starting to retire for the season, looking a little weathered and fading in color. But their display is far from over. In fall, they're one of the best plants for sculptural seed heads. There are a few tasks to tick off in September for a little late-summer TLC.

Growing coneflowers rewards in more ways than one. As a tough, hardy perennial, it returns each year with bright pink, purple, and even yellow blooms (see this coneflower mix of colors at Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees). In fall, it turns into a vital food source for birds and offers interest where other plants fade away. In September, towards the end of their flowering cycle, coneflower care is about selectively deadheading, collecting seeds, and most importantly, monitoring for pests and disease in the wet conditions of fall.

The good news is it doesn't take long to give your coneflowers some attention this month before harsher fall conditions settle in. Here's exactly what to do with coneflowers in September.

1. Deadhead Selectively

With lingering warmer temps in September, there is still time to deadhead coneflowers and encourage a final few flowers. However, crucially, you shouldn't be overzealous with your pruning shears and remove all of its spent blooms.

With echinacea slowing down for fall, a mass flush of blooms is unlikely. You don't want to unintentionally get rid of all the seed heads, leaving you with nothing for fall and winter.

Coneflowers are excellent flowers for seed heads. They provide architectural interest for your fall garden and provide a natural way to feed birds in fall and winter, especially goldfinches.

If you are planning to remove a few more spent blooms, use sharp bypass pruning shears (like this Fiskars pair from Amazon) and cut down to the first pair of healthy green leaves.

2. Collect Seeds

In fall, you can collect coneflower seeds to plant next year and get new plants for free. They may be ready to collect in September, or you may need to wait a little longer.

To know if coneflower seeds are ready for collecting, look for when the central cone has turned dark brown and hard. The petals should have fallen off completely, too. Harvesting seeds too early can impact their viability, so it's best to let them ripen first.

To collect the seeds, cut off the head (these gardening snips from Lowe's should work well) and shake it into a paper bag. Store your seeds somewhere cool, dark, and dry to keep them viable for planting in spring.

3. Reduce Watering

Coneflowers are drought-tolerant plants once established, so there isn't a need to water them regularly as we enter wetter months. In fact, overly wet soil can cause root rot.

Really, you should only need to give your coneflowers a deep watering in September if it's unusually dry or there's a late-summer heatwave. Using this soil moisture meter from Amazon, you can monitor when the top few inches have dried out.

Ensuring the soil is well-draining will also help keep your coneflowers in good shape. If needed, loosen compacted soil with this hand rake from Amazon.

4. Don't Fertilize

While you can fertilize coneflowers through spring and summer to give them a boost of essential plant nutrients and support flowering, fertilizing can be problematic as we enter September.

As the plant slows down and focuses on preparing for winter dormancy, it's best to conserve its energy. Feeding your coneflowers now will only encourage new growth, which may not make it through fall frosts and ultimately weaken the plant.

Allowing your plant to rest will ensure its energy goes into putting on a beautiful display next summer.

5. Inspect for Disease

One of the biggest challenges in the fall garden is managing disease, as the mild temperatures and wetter weather can create the perfect environment for fungal diseases and fall garden pests.

Coneflowers are particularly susceptible to aster yellows (identifiable by deformed, green-yellow petals and curling yellow leaves), powdery mildew, and rosette mites (which cause fuzzy green tufts sprouting from the flower cone).

Monitoring for these pests and diseases, and dealing with them straight away, is the best way to stop the problem spreading in your yard.

Severely infected plants should be removed and disposed of to protect the rest of your garden – wearing these gardening gloves from Walmart and cleaning pruning tools will also reduce the risk of spreading.

What to Shop

Something else to do over the next month is to keep an eye on your local forecast for your fall frost dates. You may need to winterize your coneflowers by adding a layer of mulch for insulation and cutting them back as winter approaches.

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Nature's own fireworks, crotons shine bright with their striking multi-colored, paddle-shaped leaves. Dazzling in vivid shades of crimson, green, ochre and pink, these tropical rainforest natives of south-east Asia pep up bright and sunlit interiors with their bold patterning and glossy foliage.

One of the showiest and best indoor plants you can grow, crotons - botanically known as Codiaeum variegatum - reward endlessly for very little attention. Requiring stable, warm and humid conditions, these indoor plants can grow to between three and six feet tall, but are governed by the size of their container.

With many intriguing variations to consider, you can find croton cultivars with narrow, broad, oak-shaped and even curly corkscrew leaves. Take a look at Croton 'Mammy' available at Walmart. A great way to kick-start any houseplant collection, they also inspire the perfect interior decorating palette this fall.

Why You Will Fall For Crotons

There are many reasons to grow crotons, but visual impact and flamboyant foliage featuring dramatic color combinations place them at the top of most plant lovers' wish lists. Bearing patches of crimson, burgundy, green, ochre and pink, they are quick to charm new and dedicated plant parents alike.

Like many of the best air-cleaning indoor plants, crotons can also filter out harmful airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene and xylene, which occur in many household materials. They help maintain air quality and moisture levels through transpiration and are a stunning, positive addition to any room.

How To Care For Crotons

Originating from Southeast Asia's tropical rainforests, crotons love a constantly bright, warm, and humid environment. They can suffer from stress and sudden leaf drop if conditions vary, but thankfully they are not one of the hardest houseplants to keep alive. Follow these simple requirements they need to thrive:

• Light: Crotons love high light levels and need them to produce their vivid foliage. 'A bright spot - so it casts a medium to strong shadow most of the day - is key,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'I think it really is the most important thing to keep in mind when growing a croton because the more light it gets, the more a croton will generally be able to tolerate other stressors.'
• Humidity & Temperature: As you would expect of a rainforest native, crotons like humid conditions. 'Average to above-average relative humidity levels are ideal - if you can keep humidity above 40/45 percent or so, you should be good,' Justin notes. 'Croton does like warm temperatures - keeping it over 65 degrees (F) or so is optimal.'
• Fertilizer: Feed with a liquid fertilizer every four to six weeks during the active growing period of late spring to early fall. Try this kelp-infused liquid feed from Amazon.
• Watering: Crotons are not the thirstiest of indoor plants, which helps to keep care simple. 'I generally water when the top 25 to 33 percent or so of the potting mix dries to the touch,' says Justin. 'If in doubt, keep your croton on the dry side rather than too wet.' This water level pot indicator from Walmart can help.
• Stability: 'Try to avoid any big changes to a croton's environment,' says Justin. 'In nature, crotons are rooted into the ground and don’t move from place to place, so moving from a bright sunroom to a dim dining room, for example, can stress it out, causing leaf loss.'

Enhance Your Decor With Crotons

One of the simplest ways to style houseplants and boost a croton's impact comes through the choice of pot.

'I’m a big fan of blue pots because blue creates a stunning contrast to the red/orange/yellow variegation in the foliage,' says Justin. 'But if a more coordinated, harmonious look suits you, you might go for a bright yellow or orange pot, for example, to echo and hype up the color the plant already has.'

He also adds: 'The same goes for the backdrop; you’ll find your croton may have a totally different (but equally beautiful) look up against a soft blue wall as an orange one.'

Mixing these houseplants for maximalists with other indoor plants with contrasting, dark green foliage makes for an eye-catching focal point. Consider grouping monstera, peace lily, Bird of Paradise and pothos with crotons and arrange on a tiered plant stand - such as this gold design from Lowe's or along a mantelpiece.

Thanks to their large, technicolor leaves, crotons are perfect for filtering sunlight. 'I’m a big fan of backlighting crotons - placing the plant where it’s in between me and the light source,' explains Justin. 'The way the light can come through the leaves is almost like a stained-glass window. So crotons are perfect for large windowsills or plant stands in front of a window. Plus, they love the light.'

It's well worth knowing how to clean houseplant leaves to keep crotons bright and healthy. As Justin explains: 'Any dust that accumulates on the leaf both decreases the plant’s appearance and decreases the amount of light it’s getting (dust acts like a filter), as well as provides habitat for pests.

'So it’s a good idea to regularly clean your croton’s leaves with a soft cloth. Cotton or microfiber should be just fine.' Try Lowe's microfibre cloths.

What to Shop

No doubt you are now smitten with crotons. Why not discover our favorite houseplants to make your home feel cozy for fall, plus learn about 7 of the best houseplants with dark foliage to make your croton foliage shine even brighter?

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September pruning is not a yard-wide haircut. Focus on indeterminate tomatoes, basil, lavender, wisteria, garden phlox, daylilies, and currants or gooseberries, making only the light, plant-specific cuts that improve ripening, shape, flowering, or health before cold weather.

The rule is to work early in the month, use clean sharp essential pruning tools, and stop if a plant is already responding to chilly nights; in Zones 3–5, that moment arrives much faster than it does in temperate Zones 7–9.

A little pruning now is about finesse, not bravado: remove what is finished, diseased, overcrowded, or unlikely to earn its keep before frost. These Felco bypass pruners from Amazon are the all-purpose pair I reach for.

September Is A Month For Editing, Not Rewriting

September has a particular light: less glare, more gold, and an uncanny ability to reveal every floppy stem I had politely ignored in August. It is tempting to march out with loppers and a grand plan. Resist. Major renovation pruning of most trees and shrubs belongs to dormancy, while spring-flowering shrubs should be left alone altogether unless something is dead, damaged, or diseased.

Instead, think like a good editor. Take out repetition, remove the bits that have lost the plot, and leave the essential structure intact.

A clean cut should be made just above a healthy leaf, side shoot, or bud, never in the middle of a bare stub. Before moving from one plant to another, particularly if powdery mildew, blight, or leaf spot is present, wipe blades with disinfectant for gardening tools from Amazon. It is a rather unglamorous ritual, but so is washing one’s hands, and both have saved many a season.

1. Indeterminate Tomatoes

Indeterminate tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are inveterate optimists. They will continue making flowers and fresh growth as though October were merely a rumor.

In cooler regions, I top my tomatoes roughly four to six weeks before the usual first frost, cutting the main stem two leaves above the highest fruit cluster I realistically expect to ripen. This tells the plant, with admirable economy, that now is the time to color up the fruit already on board.

Remove yellowing or badly spotted leaves, especially those touching the soil, and pinch out obvious new suckers. Do not strip the plant bare; tomatoes still need enough foliage to feed the fruit and protect it from sunscald.

Gardeners in Zones 8–10, where the season may continue with real warmth, can be less ruthless and simply keep vines tied in and healthy. Our guide on how to get tomatoes to ripen on the vine has more ways to make the most of the remaining harvest.

2. Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is not really pruned so much as repeatedly persuaded to be useful. In early September, pinch out every flowering tip you find, cutting just above a pair of leaves. The plant responds by branching, which means more tender leaves for pesto, tomato salads, and the sort of dinner that makes a Tuesday feel briefly like a vacation in Tuscany.

This is especially worthwhile in Zones 6 and warmer, where there may be weeks of growing weather left. In colder areas, harvest generously before night temperatures regularly fall below 50°F; basil dislikes a cold snap with melodramatic intensity.

Avoid cutting more than a third of the plant at once, and use the trimmings immediately or turn them into basil oil. If your plants have been prone to mildew, remove affected leaves and discard them rather than composting them. You can find more advice in our guide to growing basil.

This Lowe's multipurpose garden hand tool has the perfect blades to harvest basil with clean cuts.

3. Lavender

There is something gloriously calming about a lavender hedge (Lavandula angustifolia) after its late-summer trim: a soft, silvery hummock, as tidy as a well-made bed.

Once flowering has finished, remove spent flower stems and lightly shorten the leafy growth by up to one-third, aiming for a rounded cushion. Crucially, do not cut deeply into the old, leafless wood. Lavender is wonderfully fragrant but not endlessly forgiving.

Early September is a good moment in Zones 7–9, where plants have time to settle before winter. In Zone 6, finish early in the month and be cautious; in Zones 3–5, it is usually safer to deadhead only and save meaningful shaping until spring. French and Spanish lavenders are less cold-hardy still, so treat them gently.

A small pair of precision pruning snips from Amazon is perfect for a few plants, while shears make sense for a long lavender border. See our full advice on how to prune lavender before taking the first cut.

Shop Pruning Tools

4. Wisteria

Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda) is the glamorous guest who has stayed too late and begun rearranging the furniture. If you missed the main midsummer trim, gardeners in mild Zones 8–9 can still shorten this year’s long, whippy side shoots in very early September, leaving five or six leaves from the permanent framework. This lets in light, keeps the vine away from gutters and rooflines, and encourages the short flowering spurs that matter next spring.

Do not cut back the principal woody branches now, and do not attempt this after nights turn chilly. In Zones 3–7, the safer course is to remove only dead, damaged, or truly troublesome growth, then wait for the dormant-season prune.

Wisteria has a gift for turning one optimistic snip into a structural engineering project, so use extendable bypass loppers from Amazon only on growth too thick for hand pruners.

Our guide on how to prune wisteria explains the twice-yearly rhythm.

5. Phlox

Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) can look radiant in September or rather like it has been caught in a rainstorm wearing a silk dress. Where flowers are fading, snip each spent cluster back to a leaf joint or outward-facing side bud. In warm, long-season areas, this may prompt a modest encore from side shoots; everywhere, it improves the plant’s appearance and prevents enthusiastic self-seeding.

Watch for powdery mildew, which is the perennial gardener’s way of being reminded that August was humid. Remove affected leaves and thin only enough congested growth to increase air movement but do not shear the entire plant to the ground while it is still green and trying to feed its roots.

In colder zones, stop deadheading when frost is close and let the plant wind down naturally. As with all deadheading, the purpose is not to create a botanical buzz cut but to encourage the plant’s best final performance.

Our guide to when to cut back phlox has more information on when to do a harder prune.

6. Daylilies

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) do not ask much, which is fortunate because they are often planted in quantities that imply a small army was involved.

In September, remove the old flower scapes right down at the crown and pull away yellow, collapsed, or disease-marked leaves. I also tidy any foliage that has sprawled across a path after summer storms, cutting it cleanly rather than tearing it.

What I do not do is give healthy green daylily fans a fashionable bob. Those leaves are still making energy for next year’s flowers. In Zones 3–6, wait until foliage yellows naturally or is knocked down by frost before cutting daylilies back; gardeners in mild zones can keep removing tatty leaves as needed.

If a clump is crowded and flowering poorly, make a note to divide it in spring or early fall while there is time for roots to settle, not on the same afternoon you have trimmed it.

7. Currants

Redcurrants (Ribes rubrum), blackcurrants (Ribes nigrum), and gooseberries (Ribes uva-crispa) repay a little attention after the last berries are picked. In early September, especially in Zones 5–8, shorten this season’s side shoots to around five leaves from their base and remove low, weak, crossing, or diseased shoots.

The objective is an open, goblet-like framework where light and air can reach the fruiting wood, not a sculpture fit for the Chelsea Flower Show.

For older gooseberries and currants, remove one or two of the oldest stems at ground level rather than hacking everything back at once. Blackcurrants fruit best on younger wood, while red and white currants carry fruit on older spurs, so label your plants if your memory is anything like mine.

Wear thorn-resistant gardening gloves from Amazon for gooseberries, and use a folding pruning saw from Walmart only for old, woody stems.

The best September pruning always leaves a yard looking cared for, not conspicuously 'done.' Put the heavy tools away, compost only healthy clippings, and admire the clearer view. Fall gardening will provide plenty of jobs; it need not be invited to bring a chainsaw.

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It may seem a little early for some to start thinking about the holidays. However, if you're planning a beautiful festive display with indoor hyacinths, the bulbs do need some prepping this month.

With their array of different colors – from deep purple, pale lavender and bright pink to soft yellow, blush tones and bright white – hyacinths make a charming scented centrepiece or festive floral display. It's a task that's well worth investing some time in.

From bulb selection, planting and chilling requirements, to storage and timing, discover how to grow hyacinth bulbs in containers, like these prepared white pearl hyacinths from Etsy. Follow these expert-recommended tasks, and you can have beautiful blooms for December.

1. Bulb Selection

Different hyacinth varieties require planting at different times, depending on the cultivar. Some varieties, such as 'Anna Marie', can bloom in as little as ten weeks, while others, like 'Pink Pearl', can take up to thirteen weeks.

This generally includes 8-10 weeks in cold conditions and the last two to three weeks indoors, so check the specifics of the cultivars you choose and work backwards to know exactly when to plant them.

'Whatever the color or cultivar you opt for, look for hyacinths labelled "prepared", "pre-chilled" or sold specifically for Christmas forcing,' explains Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist from Flowerbulb.eu.

'Since hyacinths typically bloom in spring, these bulbs have been given special cooling treatment to promote earlier flowering and are far more reliable than ordinary hyacinths.

'Select large and firm bulbs, making sure they have no soft areas, mold, or damage. Large bulbs contain more stored energy and can produce more substantial flowers.'

These 'Delft Blue' prepared hyacinth bulbs from Etsy come in a pack of five and should be planted straight away.

2. Mixing Varieties

Whether you want your potted hyacinths to open at the same time or staggered for an extended display over the holiday period, bloom timing is key.

'If I’m planting several varieties together in the same container, I only combine bulbs with similar forcing times,' says Tabar Gifford, master gardener at American Meadows.

'For instance, ‘Delft Blue’ and another early-forcing variety, such as ‘Jan Bos ’, can give me a coordinated display rather than one finishing while the other is still just a green shoot.

'I generally don’t mix an early forcer with a late one like ‘City of Haarlem’ in the same pot; instead, I’ll pot the late variety separately and start it earlier if needed so it catches up.

'For color, I love pairing a classic blue like ‘Delft Blue’ with a moody, deep purple like ‘Woodstock’, or a soft yellow like ‘City of Haarlem’ against a crisp white ‘Carnegie’ for real festive contrast.'

If you’re displaying multiple pots together rather than combining varieties in one container, you have more flexibility, since you can stagger your planting dates so everything opens around the same week.

These 'Jan Bos' forced hyacinth bulbs from Etsy have a deep pink color for a dramatic display.

3. Planting Hyacinth Bulbs

If your cultivar takes ten weeks or longer to bloom in the cold, plant hyacinth bulbs in September (or early October at the latest) if you want them to flower for Christmas.

Single small hyacinth plants make lovely table decorations. However, for larger holiday displays you may want to cluster different colors together or plant a mass of one single tone for impact.

'Plant the bulbs in any well-draining potting mix and close enough that the bulbs are just touching,' says Peggy Anne. 'Cover small bulbs with ½ inch of soil and larger bulbs up to their tips. Water them, and put in a cool (but not freezing) dark place.'

For a simple holiday display, plant several prepared hyacinth bulbs together in a shallow pot or decorative holiday bowl filled with well-draining soil, like this organic potting mix from Burpee.

It's always best to protect your hands when handling hyacinth bulbs, as they can cause skin irritation. These pretty printed gardening gloves from Target are comfortable, durable, and washable.

'Set the bulbs close together, with their tips just above the soil,' says Peggy Anne. 'Once they're ready follow the same instructions as above. The clustered bulbs create a full, fragrant centerpiece for a holiday table, mantel or windowsill.'

'When you’re forcing bulbs, you want to plant much shallower than most people expect,' says Tabar. 'I nestle the bulbs close together in the container, almost touching, with their shoulders and noses exposed above the soil or bulb fiber line.

'It should look like the bulb is sitting in the pot rather than buried in it. Orientation matters, too: always pointy end (the nose) up, root plate down; that’s true whether you’re forcing in soil, bulb fiber, or a water glass.'

"Prepared" hyacinth bulbs can also be planted in glass bulb vases. These are shaped like an hourglass allowing the bulb to sit above the water, and the roots to grow down into it. 'Keep the water just below the bottom of the bulb,' says Peggy Anne. 'The bulb itself should not sit in water.'

This set of three DAKSJUS mixed color vases from IKEA would make a stylish display.

'These still need the full chilling period before they come into the light,' says Tabar. 'The roots sense the water and will grow down toward it, but keep the base of the bulb just above the water rather than sitting in it, as direct contact can encourage rot.'

4. Storage and Chilling Requirements

Where you keep your potted Hyacinth bulbs will depend on the temperatures in your region. Those who experience chilly winters can store their bulbs in a shed or garage outside, while those in warmer zones may need to refrigerate them.

'Keep potted bulbs in a cool, dark spot such as a cold garage or basement,' says Peggy Anne. 'Aim for temperatures around 40–48°F and keep the soil lightly moist throughout the chilling period.

'If temperatures are suitable, you can also place the pots outdoors and let the weather provide the chilling. A layer of leaves or mulch can help insulate them, while chicken wire can keep rodents away.

'You can also chill bulbs in the refrigerator, but keep them away from fruit. Fruit releases ethylene gas, which can interfere with the bulbs' development.'

These plant labels from Lowe's will remind you which varieties you have planted.

5. Forced Bulbs vs Regular Bulbs

“Prepared”, "forced" or “pre-chilled” hyacinth bulbs need less time to bloom as growers have already started the cold treatment – and they are a more reliable option if you want to see this spring flower during the holiday season. However, Tabar explains that ordinary hyacinth bulbs can be used indoors too, if given adequate cold treatment.

'You can begin the chilling process yourself with regular bulbs,' says Tabar. 'Hyacinths need a sustained period of cold – essentially convincing the bulb it has lived through a winter – before it will send up a flower.'

For regular bulbs, Tabar plans on around 12–14 weeks of cold treatment. 'A refrigerator crisper drawer works well,' she says. 'But keep the bulbs away from any ripening fruit.

'An unheated garage, cellar, or cold frame can work just as well if you have the space. You’ll know the chilling period is progressing when you see pale shoot growth and the pot is well filled with roots.

'Always check the supplier’s instructions, because chilling requirements can vary. It’s worth the wait, just know you’ll need to practice patience.'

This cold frame from Burpee measures W23" x H16", so it can fit comfortably in a shed or garage. Cover with a blanket for plants that require darkness.

6. When To Move Potted Bulbs Into The Light

Mark on your calendar when you expect your indoor bulbs to be ready to come out of the cool, dark storage and into the warmth and the light. However, check them first and do it gradually.

'Don’t move the bulbs from chilling into a warm room just because the calendar tells you to,' says Peggy Anne. 'Instead, check that the shoots are light green or yellow and measure about 1½ to 2” in length.'

When they're ready, bring them into a warmer room away from direct bright light.

'Once the leaves begin to turn darker green, gradually move them closer to a window and into warmer, brighter conditions,' says Peggy Anne. 'But keep them away from radiators, heating vents, and other sources of artificial heat.'

Hyacinths should bloom about three weeks after having undergone the correct cool period, but the timing will differ according to the variety and conditions.

'Follow the planting and forcing instructions that come with your specific bulbs,' adds Peggy Anne.

7. Festive Displays

The color and style of the containers you choose for your indoor bulbs will depend on the theme of your holiday decor. However, neutral tones offer a flexible option, and the size of the pot should not be much bigger than the bulb or bulbs you plan to plant.

'Shallow bulb pans or pots (4–8 inches wide) with drainage holes, filled with regular potting soil, are my go-to, and the most forgiving option,' says Tabar.

'Decorative bowls with no drainage, filled with bulb fiber (a lightweight, moisture-retentive mix made for exactly this purpose) are lovely for gifting since there’s no soil to spill.'

Once the shoots have emerged, a light layer of sphagnum moss tucked around the base can hide the soil or bulb fiber and gives the container a finished look.

This sphagnum moss from Lowe's would add a decorative touch to hyacinth displays.

'I’m careful to keep the moss loose rather than packed down, and I always leave the bulb’s nose and any emerging bud completely uncovered so it isn’t smothered,' says Tabar. 'For the water-glass method, small decorative pebbles or glass marbles around the base do the same job and help hold the bulb steady.

'For a truly festive look, I’ll often set a few forcing glasses together in a low tray or basket, or group several small pots of the same variety in a single decorative container; it reads as one lush arrangement rather than a single lonely bulb.'

Shop Beautiful Planters

Consider the hyacinth colors you would like for your festive display and start planting over the coming weeks for beautiful blooms in time for Christmas or the New Year.

'I love having a taste of spring in the winter months, and forcing bulbs is a really rewarding way to make that happen,' says Tabar

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Lavender may be past its summer peak, but September is no time to forget about it. A few simple jobs now can help plants stay healthy as temperatures fall, while also giving you the chance to create new lavender plants for next year.

For US gardeners, the timing will vary considerably by region. In northern states, fall can bring chilly nights and early frosts, while gardeners in the South may still be enjoying warm weather. Wherever you garden, September is a useful month to check your lavender's growing conditions and prepare it for the seasonal shift.

If you're hoping to grow lavender or try landscaping with lavender, September is a good time to assess your plants and plan ahead. I love the Southern Living® Phenomenal™ Lavender Plant and Sensational™ Lavender Plant from Trees.com, with Sensational™ being an especially lovely choice because it blooms in fall.

Exploring different lavender varieties can help you choose plants suited to your local conditions, with factors such as size, hardiness, and flowering time to consider.

1. Tidy Spent Flowers

If your lavender has finished flowering, September is a good time to deadhead lavender by removing spent flower stems and lightly tidying the plant. Focus on shaping the green, leafy growth rather than cutting deeply into the woody base. For the job, I like the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, which are well suited to trimming flower stems and light branches.

Avoid heavy pruning late in the season, particularly in colder climates. Cutting too hard can encourage tender new growth that may struggle when freezing temperatures arrive.

2. Cut Back on Watering

As the summer heat fades, your lavender will likely need less water. Knowing how to water lavender properly is especially important in areas where fall brings increased rainfall. Lavender is drought-tolerant once established and prefers dry, well-drained conditions. Let the soil dry between waterings, and avoid keeping the root zone consistently damp, which can contribute to root rot.

For container-grown lavender, I like the Fiskars Indoor and More Watering Can, available at Walmart. Its long, slim spout makes it easier to direct water right to the base of the plant without overwatering.

If you're growing lavender in a container, also check that excess water can drain freely through the bottom.

3. Check Your Soil and Drainage

Before fall rains arrive, check where your lavender is growing. These Mediterranean plants dislike sitting in wet soil, so drainage is particularly important as temperatures cool. If you have heavy clay soil, consider improving drainage with suitable amendments or growing lavender in a raised bed.

If you're growing lavender in pots, make sure containers have drainage holes and use a free-draining potting mix. The Hayes Terracotta Planters from Pottery Barn are a stylish option for outdoor use, while the Bloem Terra Plastic Planter from Target offers a more budget-friendly choice with drainage.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, says: 'Lavender is happiest when you work with its natural preferences rather than against them. In September, that means keeping the roots on the drier side and making sure excess moisture can escape easily.'

4. Skip the Fall Fertilizer

It can be tempting to fertilize lavender with a final feed in September, but established plants generally don't need it. Fertilizing now can encourage soft, leafy growth just as the plant should be slowing down for winter. If your soil is reasonably fertile and the plant is healthy, there's little reason to add extra nutrients.

If you do need a fertilizer for lavender, choose a gentle, slow-release option and use it sparingly. Jobe's Organics Granular Plant Fertilizer from Amazon is one option to consider for plants that genuinely need feeding, but it's best saved for the active growing season rather than applied in September.

5. Take Cuttings for Next Year

September can be a great time to propagate lavender from cuttings, particularly if you have a plant with a scent, color or growth habit you particularly love. Take healthy, non-flowering shoots and remove the lower leaves before placing the cuttings into a free-draining rooting medium. A rooting hormone such as Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone can help encourage root development.

Keep cuttings lightly moist and protected while roots develop. This is an inexpensive way to produce new plants for borders, containers or pathways – and a useful gardening job to tackle before the season winds down.

6. Inspect for Pests and Disease

Give plants a close inspection as you complete your September garden cleanup. Look for discolored foliage, dying stems or signs of lavender pests, and check that the base of the plant isn't staying excessively wet. Good airflow and drainage are essential for lavender, particularly as cooler and wetter weather arrives.

If you spot aphids, spider mites, or other soft-bodied pests, an insecticidal soap can be a useful option when used according to the label. Bonide Captain Jack's Insecticidal Super Soap from The Home Depot is one option that can help control several common garden pests. Always test sprays on a small area first and avoid treating plants when pollinators are actively visiting.

Removing affected foliage and improving growing conditions can help prevent small problems from becoming bigger ones.

7. Prepare for Your First Frost

How much protection your lavender needs depends on the variety and where you live. If you're wondering how to winterize lavender, start by checking your plant's hardiness before temperatures fall. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is generally more cold-hardy, while Spanish and French lavender varieties can be less tolerant of freezing conditions.

If you garden in a colder USDA hardiness zone, be ready to protect tender varieties as genuinely cold weather approaches. Container-grown lavender is particularly vulnerable because its roots have less insulation than plants growing in the ground. A frost cloth such as this Plant Cover from Amazon can provide temporary protection, while a layer of natural burlap, such as Burlapper Burlap Fabric from Amazon, can offer additional shelter for containers.

Don't rush to wrap or cover healthy lavender simply because September has arrived. Wait until genuinely cold weather is approaching and make sure any protection still allows good airflow.

Lavender doesn’t need much fuss in fall. I’ve managed to keep mine going year after year by avoiding overwatering, skipping fertilizer and not pruning too hard. Instead, I focus on good drainage, a light tidy-up and winter protection when needed. A little care now can help lavender stay healthy through winter and bloom again next year.

Set-and-forget vegetables that thrive on neglect are the busy gardener’s great relief: Swiss chard, kale, perpetual spinach, zucchini, runner beans, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, rhubarb, and Egyptian walking onions will tolerate missed waterings, modest soil, and the occasional week when life gets in the way. Give them a sensible start, mulch their roots, and harvest regularly, and they will reward you with armfuls of food rather than passive-aggressive collapse.

This is autopilot gardening at its most useful. It is not gardening without any effort, but it is gardening with a pleasingly low level of administrative burden.

If you are planning late-season sowings, there are still plenty of useful vegetables to plant in August for a productive plot long after summer has packed up its deckchair.

1. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. vulgaris) is what I plant when I want the vegetable patch to look after itself while I attend to more pressing matters, such as sitting down. It is handsome, productive, and remarkably unfazed by imperfect care. Once established, it copes with heat, light frost, and periods of dryness better than most leafy crops.

Sow it directly into the ground or a raised bed in spring, allowing about 12 inches between plants, and pick the outer leaves as needed. The center continues producing with the serene determination of a small, leafy factory. In temperate USDA Zones 3–10, it can often keep going for months; in milder areas, it may overwinter.

The rainbow-stemmed varieties are especially lovely, turning a practical vegetable patch into something that might make the ornamental border feel briefly insecure. Nothing looks better than a handful of beautiful chard stems draped over the side of a wicker harvesting basket from Amazon. For a fuller primer, our guide on how to grow Swiss chard covers its sunny preferences and container potential.

2. Kale

Kale (Brassica oleracea) has a reputation for being worthy, which is a little unfair. It is also delicious when crisped in olive oil, tucked into soup, or picked young for salads and, crucially, it is hard to kill with ordinary neglect.

Plant kale in sun or partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil, then water it well while young. After that, a mulch of compost or shredded leaves is usually enough to steady moisture levels and suppress weeds. In Zones 7–9, kale can happily produce through winter; in colder temperate zones, a simple row cover extends the harvest handsomely.

I favor lacinato kale for its dark, puckered leaves, which have the pleasing appearance of something grown by a medieval apothecary. Pick a few lower leaves at a time rather than beheading the whole plant, and it will continue obligingly. Our how to grow kale guide has more on varieties and harvesting windows.

3. Zucchini

Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo) is the extrovert of the low-maintenance vegetable garden. Give it warmth, space, rich soil, and a deep drink during dry spells, and one or two plants can produce enough fruit to make neighbors suddenly avoid eye contact in August.

Plant after the risk of frost has passed, in full sun, ideally beside a generous heap of compost. The large leaves shade the ground, helping retain moisture and crowd out weeds. The only regular job is harvesting: pick zucchini while young and tender, around 6–8 inches long, unless you are cultivating a vegetable large enough to require planning permission.

In humid regions, good spacing helps prevent powdery mildew; in dry climates, water at the soil level rather than showering the foliage. For the essentials on spacing, sowing, and productivity, see how to grow zucchini. A sturdy raised garden bed from Lowe’s also makes the whole operation wonderfully contained.

4. Runner Beans

Runner beans (Phaseolus coccineus) are proof that productivity can be vertical. Sow seeds after the soil has warmed, give the seedlings a wigwam, trellis, or fence to climb, and they will cover it with lively foliage and bright flowers before producing a steady run of pods.

They need water while establishing and during prolonged dry spells, but they are otherwise gloriously uncomplicated. In many temperate zones, they continue until the first frosts, and regular picking encourages more pods. Miss a few, and they become rather large and furry; simply save those to shell as beans, rather than pretending they are still dainty.

I love them at the back of a bed, where their height earns its keep and their flowers bring in pollinators. Start with a reliable seed such as Prizewinner Runner Beans from Ture Leaf Market, then let the beans perform their annual magic trick of becoming both food and screening.

5. Potatoes

Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are perhaps the ultimate crop for gardeners who prefer results to fussing. Plant seed potatoes in loose, fertile soil or large grow bags, earth up the stems once or twice as they grow, and then allow the plants to get on with it.

They do appreciate water in a dry summer, especially when flowering and forming tubers, but they demand little pruning, staking, or persuasion. Grow bags are ideal for small back yards because harvesting becomes a satisfyingly theatrical act: tip out the compost and go prospecting.

Choose early varieties for quick harvests, or maincrops for winter storage. In areas with wet springs, wait until soil is workable rather than planting into cold mud; potatoes are patient, but they do not enjoy swamp life. A potato grow bag from Amazon is a neat route to homegrown spuds without sacrificing a border.

6. Jerusalem Artichokes

Jerusalem artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus) are for anyone with a sunny corner and a tolerance for abundance. These tall, sunflower-like perennials grow from tubers, cope with poor soil, and return year after year with very little intervention.

Plant them where their height will not shade smaller crops, ideally at the back of the plot, and expect them to reach 6–10 feet. By fall, you can lift the knobbly tubers as needed, leaving a few behind to start next year’s colony. The phrase “a few” is important: this is a plant with expansion plans.

They are hardy across Zones 3–9 and make a useful edible screen, though I would not plant them in a tiny, highly ordered bed unless you enjoy negotiations with vigorous perennials. Their cheerful yellow flowers are a welcome bonus when much of the vegetable garden is beginning to look a touch exhausted.

7. Rhubarb

Rhubarb (Rheum × hybridum) is technically a vegetable, though it spends much of its culinary career masquerading as dessert. More importantly, it is a perennial that asks for a good planting position once and then settles down for years.

Plant crowns in fall or early spring in rich, well-drained soil, with their buds just at soil level. Water during establishment, mulch annually with compost, and resist harvesting in the first year so the plant can build strength. After that, mature crowns offer spring stems with very little coaxing, especially in Zones 3–8 where winter cold helps them thrive.

Do not eat the leaves, which contain oxalic acid; the ruby stalks, however, are made for crumbles, compotes, and the kind of pie that makes dinner guests forgive nearly anything. Rhubarb crowns from True Leaf Market make establishing new plants quick and effortless.

8. Egyptian Walking Onions

Egyptian walking onions (Allium × proliferum) are perennial onions with a party trick: they produce clusters of bulbils at the top of their stems, which eventually bend down, root, and “walk” across the bed. Any vegetable that behaves like a slow-motion creature feature deserves a place in the garden.

Plant the Egyptian Walking Onion seeds from Amazon, or bulbs in full sun and well-drained soil. They need little more than an occasional weed and a mulch in very cold climates. Harvest the green leaves like scallions, pull young bulbs, or collect the top bulbils for cooking and replanting.

They are hardy in Zones 3–10, reliable, and particularly useful for gardeners who forget to order seeds in spring. The best low-maintenance garden is not one that never needs you; it is one that can forgive you for being busy, then greet you with dinner anyway.

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Few indoor plants have the impact and appeal of an areca palm, especially during hot summer months. This graceful, arching palm has an alluring, visual charm coupled with mood boosting benefits that can help revitalise your inside space and transport you to restful, tropical climes.

More refined than other indoor palms, with their strong, architectural lines, these relatively slow growing plants exude calmness, peace and serenity, and thankfully are pretty easy to look after.

One of the most elegant houseplants that can cool your house and purify the air, these palms (also known as the butterfly palm, or botanically Areca catechu) are celebrated by home stylists, interior designers and plant experts alike. Whether you opt for a small plant, such as this 12''areca palm from Walmart on a sunny desk top or large specimen, try this areca palm from The Sill displayed proudly in a vacant corner, you can revitalize your living space into a cool, leafy retreat and soak up the benefits.

How Areca Palms Can Transform a Home in Summer

A fabulous choice for looks alone, this palm also has valuable cooling and air cleaning properties that makes it useful and beneficial to have in our homes, especially during hot summer months.

'I think the areca palm is the ultimate summer statement plant because it easily brings tropical vibes indoors with its feathery, arching fronds,' says plant expert Paris Lalicata. 'It also purifies the air giving your home that fresh outdoor air feeling even when you’re stuck inside on a sunny day!'

Using a process known as transpiration, these tropical indoor plants can help rebalance humidity levels within the home.

'Like all houseplants, Areca palm absorbs moisture from the potting mix via its roots and then releases much of that moisture (along with fresh oxygen) into the air via its fronds,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'This is especially helpful for rooms that have an air conditioner running a lot, as the palm replenishes humidity stripped out by the air conditioning unit.'

'It’s noticeably more delicate looking than a kentia palm, lady palm, or majesty palm, for example,' says Justin. 'It also has a sense of fullness you don’t necessarily see with other palms because it’s typically grown with multiple plants per pot, rather than just having a trunk or two.'

'Since the palm has so many fronds and leaflets, it may be adding more humidity than a smaller, less leafy plant,' says houseplant expert Lisa Eldred Steinkopf.

How To Keep Your Areca Palm Thriving

Native to the tropical forests of Singapore, Malaysia and Papua New Guinea, these palms love warmth, high light levels and humidity. Knowing this background is key to these indoor tropical plants thriving.

'In summer, your Areca Palm can do double-duty in front of a bright window by absorbing solar radiation coming in, rather than having it heat up your room, and giving you natural privacy with its size,' explains Justin. 'As a houseplant, the more light it gets, the better.'

He also cautions that, 'Areca Palm isn’t a fan of low-light areas, so it’s probably not going to be happy in a windowless bathroom or the far side of a living room, den, or bedroom.' An Aspect LED Grow Light from The Sill will bring light to darker spots.

Moisture levels around the plant and its roots need to monitored, so investing in a meter such as this Probe Moisture Meter from Amazon, can be useful.

'Don’t let your palm dry out and keep the humidity up around the plant,' says Lisa. 'Add more plants around the palm or place it on a pebble tray to help. A humidifier would also help.' Paris also adds that, 'palms grow best in a warm, humid environment so avoid rooms that get too cold or dry,' says Paris. 'Consider a space heater if the room will get below 65F degrees.'

Find plastic plant humidity saucers at Walmart.

How An Areca Palm Can Refresh Your Interior Decor

The Areca palm is the indoor plant that will instantly transform a light filled room. 'The secret is in those beautiful soft fronds that arch out gracefully. They help to break up hard lines in your space and fill empty areas with airy foliage. Just having those big tropical leaves indoors makes a room feel closer to nature,' says Paris.

This tall indoor plant makes an impressive statement displayed on its own, as Paris explains. 'Large specimens are great as floor plants, filling empty corners or elevated with plant stands depending on the space and window size, but smaller varieties look great on desks and side tables.'

Alternatively, try showcasing this palm as part of a curated plant collection.

'If you want to up the biophilic effect, give it some friends and create a grouping; either multiple areca palms or an areca palm paired with some of your other favorite houseplants. In nature, you never see a single plant all by itself,' says Justin.

'The effect of having more, smaller fronds compared to fewer, larger fronds is perfect for adding a tropical touch in a softer way , and for contrasting coarser-leafed houseplants like Monstera, Bird of Paradise, or Fiddle Leaf Fig,' he adds.

Walmart's Easy Care Air Purifying 12 Plant collection is a great starting point and multi-tiered metal plant stand such as this from Target makes arranging them easy.

With their vibrant green fronds breaking into many slender leaflets, the butterfly palm is a firm favorite with interior designers.

'The foliage is adaptable and can complement almost any color,' explains Paris. 'I personally like a tropical turquoise to make the foliage pop or burnt oranges and warm yellows for an earthy feel.'

Indoor planters come in all sizes, finishes and materials. This Large Pallas Floor Planter from The Sill comes with a bamboo stand for added height and drama. Alternatively try Anthropologie's striking Slatted Acacia Diamond planter.

If you've fallen for the charms of an areca palm, discover How to grow a palm tree to ensure the best results and consider adding a sago palm to your collection.

And our curated houseplant care kit will show you everything you need to give them the best care possible.

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You can't fail to notice Gaillardia, with its bold daisy-like blooms tinted in yellow and red. A US native, these short-lived perennials are easy-going, thrive in heat and need little water once established. Flowering non-stop from mid- summer through to the first frosts, it deserves a spot in every sunny yard.

Commonly known as blanket flower, there are two varieties native to the US - Gaillardia pulchella throughout eastern, central, and southwestern US and Gaillardia aristata across Illinois, Oklahoma, and most of the western US. Well adapted to thriving in the hot and dusty grasslands and prairies, these hard working plants are brilliant for dense ground cover, self seeding and supporting wildlife.

Growing blanket flower really couldn't be easier and with very little effort, it will reward you with showy blooms for months on end. In fact, even knowing how to deadhead blanket flowers is optional. You can find Gaillardia seeds at True Leaf Market or find seeds for the Arizona series with their double blooms at Burpee.

Why You Should Grow Gaillardia In Your Yard

No yard should be without blanket flower in late summer and when heading into fall. ‘Gaillardia is such an easy, joyful garden contributor. It pulls in the bees and butterflies and cut flower enthusiasts alike with its long bloom time’ says landscape designer, Stacilyn Feldman.

With it's bi-colored flowers in red and yellow, gaillardia radiates cheer amongst sun-ripened grasses and other fading summer blooms. ‘Blanket flower is one of those dependable native plants that truly shines during the hottest part of the growing season. To get the most from it, plant it in full sun with well-drained soil and avoid overwatering or fertilizing’, suggests Mary Phillips, Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation.

Reaching heights of 2-3ft (61-91cm) with a spread of 2ft (61cm) these native varieties need regular watering and feeding during their first year, but will happily cope with drought conditions thereafter. Compact varieties are also available, and are perfect for containers and bedding displays.

'Annual blanket flower can be planted by seed in the fall and can bloom as early as the following spring,' says Mary. This plant is also a prolific self seeder, meaning that those seeds not eaten by birds will germinate and establish the following spring unaided.

Plant expert Laura Coggan also adds, 'Galliardia 'Spintop™ Mariachi Copper Sun' Improved is also worth mentioning where wildlife value is a priority. It is a compact, densely branching plant with strong stems and a particularly long, heavy flowering period. Its nectar and pollen-rich flowers attract bees and butterflies, while the seedheads are attractive to birds including goldfinches.' You can find this variety of blanket flower at Park Seed.

Looking After Your Gaillardia

Easy going and requiring little intervention - apart from in their first year - these long performing plants are essential in any low maintenance yard or pollinator garden. ‘It is relatively disease resistant and not usually susceptible to deer or rabbits’, says landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman .

'Blanket flower evolved in open prairies, grasslands, and sandy habitats where intense sunlight, high temperatures, and periodic drought are common,' says Mary. 'Deep root systems help the plant conserve water and bloom even during summer droughts. . 'It performs best in lean, well-drained soils, including sandy or gravelly sites, and does not tolerate poorly drained or consistently wet conditions.'

Although the lance-shaped, green-gray foliage is pretty unremarkable; including the slightly bristly leaves of the common blanket flower, it does form dense ground cover helping suppress weeds, conserve moisture and offering wildlife shelter. 'Plant blanket flower in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day,' advises Mary.

As long as it is not planted in rich, fertile soil, gaillardia will bloom non-stop from June to October. 'Deadheading will prolong flowering, so faded blooms can be cut back to a healthy leaf or side shoot through summer,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'As fall approaches, leave some later flowerheads intact. This lets seed develop for birds while the remaining flowers continue to provide nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies.'

Aid good drainage by adding fine grade pea gravel from Walmart and make deadheading quick and easy with these Fiskars Pruning Snips from Amazon.

What To Plant Alongside Gaillardia

As a cheery flower in sunset shades, blanket flower can prove a challenge to work with. Leaving it to colonise large areas will create a showstopping late summer display, but there are other considered options too.

'Pick sympatico warm hued blooms like Sedum, Coreopsis, Achillea and ornamental grasses,' says Stacilyn. 'I’m partial to Panicum ‘Cape Breeze' - to pair with this garden workhorse.'

Due to its late flowering season, this resilient plant is one of the best to attract hummingbirds plus it's hugely valuable in to beneficial insects and pollinators too. Team it with like-minded flowers as part of a drought tolerant pollinator garden. 'Pairing blanket flower with other native species that bloom before and after it creates a continuous source of nectar for pollinators throughout the growing season,' adds Mary.

Sun loving shrubs such as rosemary, lavender and bottle brush are perfect companions to showy blanket flowers and make a statement as part of a Mediterranean garden or xeriscape. No surprise, but these prairie blooms also work with a mix of airy perennials and grasses too, including tickseed, coneflower, stipa, rudbeckia and blue-silver stemmed Russian sage.

For a simple and no-effort plant combination try the Native Western Xeriscape Wildflower Seed Mix from American Meadows.

Impressed how blanket flower can extend your yard's floral charm, take it even further with these best fall-flowering perennials.

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August can make a vegetable gardener feel rather late to the party: the tomatoes are strutting, the zucchini is multiplying, and every empty inch seems spoken for. Yet arugula (Eruca vesicaria) is the one crop you can still sow in a small space now, often harvesting baby leaves in under a month and continuing with successive sowings into fall.

It needs very little room, grows happily in containers, and appreciates the easing heat of late summer far more than a tomato ever will.

For more ways to make every inch count, these small vegetable garden ideas prove that productive growing need not require a grand country plot or a gardening trug the size of a bathtub. Get a head start with these slow bolt organic arugula seeds from True Leaf Market.

Why Arugula Is August’s Cleverest Crop

Arugula, also known as rocket in the UK, is one of those useful plants that quietly gets on with the job while more glamorous vegetables demand staking, tying, feeding, fussing, and the occasional stern word. Sow it in August and you can expect germination in around a week in warm soil, with tender baby leaves ready in roughly 20 to 30 days.

That speed matters. By late summer, the backyard can resemble an exhausted theater after the matinee: a few empty patches, some weary pots, and plants that have given everything to their performance. Arugula is the neat little understudy who steps out, knows all the lines, and gets a standing ovation.

It is particularly useful in temperate USDA Zones 4–9, where late-summer days remain warm enough for quick germination but nights begin to cool, improving the leaves’ flavor. The slightly peppery bite is sharper than lettuce but gentler than a mouthful of actual mustard, which is a relief to everyone at lunch.

If you are wondering what else can earn its keep at this point in the season, our guide to vegetables to plant in August is a helpful companion. But for one fast, small-space crop, arugula is hard to beat.

A Pot Is Plenty

One of the joys of growing arugula is that it does not demand a deep container or a sprawling raised bed. Its roots are shallow, so a window box, broad bowl, grow bag, or planter at least 6 inches deep will do nicely, provided it has drainage holes. A container 10 to 12 inches wide gives enough room for a worthwhile little crop without requiring a change to your zip code.

I have grown arugula in a modest terracotta pot beside the kitchen door, where it became the most frequently harvested plant in the entire back yard. This is the ideal placement: close enough that you can snip a handful while pasta boils, rather than embarking on a solemn expedition to the far end of the garden.

A self-watering window box from Amazon is particularly useful for a sunny balcony, while compact raised beds from Walmart offer more growing room without consuming a patio. Choose a wide container rather than a tall, narrow one. Arugula is not interested in plumbing the geological depths; it wants elbow room.

For a fuller primer on pots, how to grow arugula explains why this leafy crop is so well suited to portable growing.

Sow Little And Often, Not All At Once

The trick to a long arugula season is not to sow one heroic packet and then marvel at your own abundance for ten minutes before everything matures simultaneously. Sow a short row or a small patch every 10 to 14 days instead. This is succession sowing, and it turns a single packet of seed into an agreeable relay race rather than a green avalanche.

Fill your container with fresh, moisture-retentive seed compost or good-quality potting mix. I like Burpee’s organic seed-starting mix for small sowings because fine, even compost makes it easier for tiny seeds to establish. Scatter seeds thinly over the surface, cover them with about ¼ inch of compost, firm gently, and water with a fine rose attachment.

A watering can with a fine rose from Ace Hardware is far more useful here than a vigorous blast from a hose, which has all the delicacy of power-washing a soufflé. Keep the surface consistently moist until seedlings emerge.

Once they are up, thin crowded seedlings to around 2 to 3 inches apart if you want larger leaves. Alternatively, let them grow closer together and harvest young. This is a deliciously forgiving crop, which is fortunate because August gardeners have plenty else to remember. Our guide to succession planting has more ways to keep a small plot productive into fall.

Choose Varieties With A Little Personality

The standard arugula, Eruca vesicaria, is quick, reliable, and enjoyably peppery. For an August sowing, look for varieties described as slow-bolting or heat-tolerant, such as these slow bolt arugula seed from True Leaf Market, especially if your local forecast still looks as though summer has no intention of leaving quietly.

Arugula ‘Astro’ from True Leaf Market is a fine choice for gardeners who want mild, rounded baby leaves quickly. ‘Sylvetta’ or wild arugula (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) offers a fierier flavor and narrower, more jagged leaves; it is slower growing but can be cut repeatedly. ‘Rocket’ is another dependable option, bringing the classic lively bite that makes a salad feel less like an obligation.

You can find a broad Arugula 'Runway' seed collection at True Leaf Market or choose compact, reliable varieties of varying shapes and colors. A packet may look comically small, but arugula seed goes a long way. Resist sowing every last grain in a moment of horticultural optimism.

If you are growing for children or anyone who regards black pepper as a dangerous spice, pick the leaves young. Baby arugula is softer and milder; older leaves become more assertive, like a guest who has stayed just long enough to express opinions about the wine.

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Give It Morning Sun And Afternoon Mercy

In August, the ideal arugula site receives several hours of sun but is protected from the harshest afternoon heat. A container is a particular advantage because you can simply move it. Plants in fixed raised beds have to endure what the weather sends them; a pot can be escorted into dappled shade with the dignity of a visiting duchess.

Arugula will grow in full sun as temperatures cool, but intense heat encourages bolting: the plant sends up a flowering stalk and the leaves turn noticeably more bitter. This is not a disaster; arugula flowers are edible and rather pretty, but it does signal that the plant is nearing the end of its leafy career.

Water regularly, especially in containers. Dry compost followed by a dramatic flood of water produces stressed plants and unreliable flavor. I find a daily check is usually enough in a temperate late-summer climate, though a hot, windy balcony can dry a pot astonishingly fast. It is always worth understanding the basics of watering container plants, because a small volume of compost has very little patience.

A light mulch of fine compost around established plants helps retain moisture. Do not overfeed; too much nitrogen can create lush growth with less flavor. Arugula is a salad leaf, not a bodybuilder.

Harvest Like You Mean To Keep It Growing

Begin harvesting when leaves are about 2 to 3 inches long. Snip the outer leaves with clean scissors or snips from Amazon, leaving the central crown intact, and the plant will continue producing. This cut-and-come-again approach gives more yield from a small space than waiting for each plant to reach some imagined moment of leafy perfection.

I harvest in the morning, after the leaves have had a chance to plump up overnight. They are crispest then, and there is something deeply satisfying about bringing a bowl of just-cut arugula into the kitchen before the coffee has finished brewing.

For the best flavor, take a few leaves often rather than stripping the plant bare. If flower stems appear, cut them promptly to prolong leaf production. When the plant finally insists on flowering, let one or two bloom for pollinators and save the seedpods if you are feeling thrifty. Gardening does not always need to end with a shopping list.

For practical ways to avoid overpicking and other common errors, these vegetable harvesting mistakes are worth knowing before your first enthusiastic snip.

Arugula is an excellent follow-on crop after bush beans, early potatoes, spent herbs, or any container whose summer occupant has become a bit forlorn. Clear away old roots and debris, refresh the top few inches of soil with compost, and sow. In a small garden, this sort of swift handover is the difference between a space that produces for three months and one that earns its breakfast through fall.

Where nights begin cooling early, cover containers or raised beds with lightweight horticultural wool or fleece to protect the leaves from an early frost. In milder temperate zones, you may keep harvesting well into fall. Gardeners in warmer areas can sow later, when the worst heat has loosened its grip.

Arugula is not a grand crop. It will not require a wheelbarrow, a harvest festival, or an apologetic note to neighbors asking whether they might possibly take some zucchini. It is better than that: fast, elegant, useful, and perfectly suited to the small spaces where every leaf has to justify itself.

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As you look around your garden throughout August, you’ll see plenty of plants that can still benefit from a nutritional boost. Not all need it, but for those that do, the key is using the right feed for their late-season needs, and there is one specific fertilizing mistake you must steer clear of.

That crucial fertilizing mistake to avoid in August is using high-nitrogen feeds. These encourage the wrong type of growth in late summer. Not only this, but it creates a real risk of burning plants and damaging their long-term health.

It is a high price to pay for using the wrong fertilizer. You never want to over-fertilize plants, and certainly not with high-nitrogen feeds at this time of year. If you want to fertilize plants in August, it is better to use a balanced feed or a bloom booster, such as this Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster at Amazon. This can benefit any flowering or fruiting plants this month, whereas other feeds won’t.

The Dangers of Excess Nitrogen in August

Fertilizing is important, but it doesn’t come without risks. Different fertilizers promote different responses in plants. Feeding plants correctly ensures you encourage the right response at the right time of year. This is why giving plants lots of nitrogen is such a key fertilizing mistake to avoid in August.

Late summer is a time of abundant growth across the garden. Summer annuals and perennials are blooming, and fall flowers aren’t far behind. Elsewhere, your late-season vegetables are developing while your summer crops are primed for picking.

At this time of year, two of the three essential plant nutrients are more important than the other. Phosphorus and potassium are crucial – they help with flowering and fruiting, which is what you want in August. On the other hand, nitrogen primarily promotes lush, green growth of stems and foliage, not ideal for late summer.

If you do give shrubs, perennials, or crops high-nitrogen fertilizers in August, you’ll see the plants respond by putting out young green growth, not flowers and fruit. This unseasonal late flush causes issues over the rest of the year, as the plant is not prepared for fall or winter.

‘It pushes soft growth this late that won't harden before frost. You're growing leaves for winter to kill,’ warns Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer. As well as being susceptible to the first frosts, tender new growth encouraged by lots of nitrogen is more vulnerable to pests and disease.

Encouraging the wrong growth doesn’t just apply to feeding flowers or vegetables. It is also a mistake to fertilize a lawn this month with excess nitrogen, as this would encourage weak, leggy growth rather than strengthen the lawn as it prepares for dormancy.

Some gardeners may reach for fertilizers in an attempt to rescue heat-stressed plants in late summer. This is not the best course of action, especially if you mistakenly use nitrogen-rich feeds.

‘When it is extremely hot outside, plants are going to slow down with growing and flowering, and more fertilizer is not going to fix that,’ warns Lindsey Chastain, an experienced gardener, homesteader, and editor at The Waddle and Cluck.

‘Instead, what can happen is that you can overfertilize and burn your plants, especially with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.’

Over-fertilizing or fertilizer burn shows itself as discolored foliage, stunted growth, wilting, or shedding of leaves, flowers, or fruits. If you see these signs this month, flush the soil with lots of water to wash away the build-up and refrain from using any feed for the rest of the season.

What to Use Instead

Certain plants around the yard don’t need any feeding in late summer. It is not an ideal time for fertilizing shrubs, trees, or early-flowering perennial plants, for example. These want to be slowing down and preparing for fall and winter, so ease off and let nature do its job.

Any plants that are still actively blooming and developing fruits do benefit from extra nutrients this month. This includes popular plants such as roses, dahlias, tomatoes, and peppers, and especially any flowering or fruiting plants growing in containers.

The best summer fertilizers for flowering and fruiting plants are higher in phosphorus and potassium. These products will have the latter two numbers of the NPK ratio on the packaging higher than the first. This indicates more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen – which is what you want to see in August.

You can extend the flowering season and ripen the remaining crops by using this kind of liquid fertilizer every week or two until around six weeks before your first frost. If you have flowering and fruiting plants in container gardens, they definitely need a weekly feed.

Look for products described as bloom boosters or tomato feeds, as they are reliably higher in phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. A good summer fertilizer encourages what you’ve got to end the season on a high note, rather than promote late, soft growth that does more harm than good.

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Another way to guarantee late-season flowers on your annuals and perennials is deadheading. Removing spent blooms stops energy from going into seed production and focuses it on opening new flowers.

Sweet peas, roses, dahlias, phlox, bee balm, and snapdragons are all among the top flowers to deadhead in August to keep those blooms coming and extend the display.

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August can be a challenging month for houseplants. Temperatures are high, air conditioning is running, and intense summer sunlight can quickly change conditions indoors. For peace lilies, that can mean drooping leaves, brown tips, and faded flowers.

Fortunately, Spathiphyllum is a forgiving houseplant, and August is a good time to give it a seasonal check. With the right peace lily care, a few simple adjustments can keep your plant healthy through the final weeks of summer.

Whether your peace lily is growing in a bright apartment in New York or dealing with the heat of a Texas summer, paying attention to light, watering, humidity, and temperature can make all the difference.

1. Keep Your Peace Lily Out of Direct Sun

Peace lilies prefer bright, indirect light, which is particularly important in August when afternoon sunshine can be intense. If you're wondering where to place a peace lily, an east-facing window is often a good choice because it provides gentler morning light, while a north-facing window can provide consistent indirect light.

Check your plant's position, especially if it's near a south- or west-facing window. Strong direct sunlight can scorch the foliage, leaving brown, crispy, or bleached patches on the leaves. You don't need to move it into a dark corner. Instead, try positioning it a few feet away from a sunny window or filtering the light with a sheer curtain.

If your home doesn't get enough natural light, an LED Grow Light from Amazon can provide supplemental illumination for your peace lily. A compact full-spectrum LED grow light with adjustable brightness and a timer can be particularly convenient for adding consistent light without moving the plant closer to a harsh window.

If your peace lily is producing plenty of healthy foliage but isn't flowering, insufficient light could also be a factor. Aim for a bright room without prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

2. Check the Soil Before Watering

Your peace lily may need water more frequently in August than it did earlier in the summer. Warm indoor temperatures and bright light can cause the potting mix to dry out faster. But don't water according to a rigid schedule. Check the soil first. Push your finger about an inch into the potting mix. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom of the container. If the soil still feels moist, give it more time.

Choosing the right peace lily potting mix can also make watering easier. Look for a loose, moisture-retentive mix that still allows excess water to drain away. A ready-made option such as Soil Sunrise Peace Lily Potting Soil Mix is formulated specifically for peace lilies and combines moisture retention with drainage. For a more general indoor option, Back to the Roots Organic Indoor Potting Mix contains perlite for aeration and drainage as well as coconut coir for moisture retention.

Peace lilies like evenly moist soil, but they don't like sitting in water. Always empty water that collects in a saucer or decorative cachepot. Poor drainage combined with frequent watering can leave roots waterlogged and contribute to root problems. Using a well-draining mix and a container with drainage holes helps excess water escape rather than remaining around the roots.

3. Don't Panic When the Leaves Droop

The peace lily has a reputation for being wonderfully dramatic when it needs water. A thirsty plant can go from upright and perky to spectacularly wilted surprisingly quickly. If you're trying to revive a drooping peace lily, start by checking the potting mix rather than watering immediately. If the soil is dry, water the plant thoroughly and give it time to recover.

A simple moisture meter can make this check easier, particularly if you're unsure whether the soil is actually dry below the surface. The XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is an affordable, battery-free option that can help you check moisture levels before watering a peace lily.

However, drooping doesn't always mean thirst. If the potting mix is already wet, resist the urge to water again. Overwatering, poor drainage, root damage or sudden temperature changes can also cause wilting. This is why checking the soil is more useful than treating drooping leaves as an automatic signal to water.

4. Protect It From Summer Heat and Air Conditioning

For many U.S. homes, air conditioning is just as relevant to August plant care as outdoor heat. Avoid placing your peace lily directly beneath an AC vent or where cold air blows continuously across its foliage. Prolonged exposure to dry airflow can contribute to brown leaf tips and stressed-looking leaves. At the same time, don't position the plant beside a hot window or in a room that becomes excessively warm.

If your home is particularly dry, a small humidifier can help add moisture to the air around your peace lily. The LEVOIT Classic 160 humidifier on Amazon is a compact option for bedrooms, offices, and other smaller spaces, with adjustable mist settings that make it easier to maintain a comfortable level of humidity.

In particularly hot parts of the South and Southwest, indoor temperatures can rise considerably near sunny glass. Grouping several houseplants together can also help create a more humid microclimate. A bathroom can be a good location for a peace lily if it has adequate natural light, but keep it away from direct blasts of air conditioning.

5. Give It a Summer Clean and Prune

Peace lily leaves are large, glossy, and quick to collect dust. In August, gently wipe the foliage with a clean, damp cloth, supporting each leaf as you work. Skip leaf-shine products; plain water is enough. A microfiber plant-cleaning glove, such as the CATPAN Plant Cleaning Set from Walmart, can make the job easier.

While cleaning, check the undersides of leaves and where stems meet the soil for pests. August is also a good time to tidy the plant. To prune a peace lily, remove completely yellow, brown or badly damaged leaves with clean, sharp pruners, cutting the stalk close to the base. The Fiskars 6-inch Plant Snips from Amazon are a useful option for precise cuts.

Remove faded flowers too. Once a white spathe turns green or brown, cut the flower stalk back near the base. Don't worry if your peace lily isn't flowering in August; blooming varies with age, light, and growing conditions.

6. Resist the Urge to Repot and Prepare for Fall

There's no need to repot a healthy peace lily simply because August has arrived. Instead, look for signs that the plant has outgrown its container, such as roots emerging from drainage holes, tightly circling roots or potting mix that dries out unusually quickly.

If you need to repot a peace lily, move up by only one pot size. Choose a container with drainage holes and use a well-draining houseplant mix. The Bloem Self-Watering Planter is a practical option because it has drainage holes and a removable saucer for indoor use.

Avoid choosing a pot that's much too large, as excess soil can retain moisture around the roots. As August draws to a close, watch changing light levels too. Your peace lily may eventually need to move closer to a bright window, but keep it protected from intense direct sun.

August care doesn't need to be complicated. Check the soil before watering, protect your peace lily from harsh sun and temperature changes, and keep its leaves clean. With bright, indirect light, consistent moisture, and enough humidity, your plant can stay healthy and lush through summer and into fall.

August is an excellent time to prune rambling roses, wisteria, honeysuckle, hardy geraniums, catmint, summer-flowering spirea, escallonia, and tired perennials. A light, timely trim improves shape, encourages repeat bloom where possible, and prevents energetic plants from treating your back yard as a personal expansion project.

The aim is not to go berserk with the pruners. In the heat of late summer, clean, selective cuts are far more useful than heroic hacking, particularly in temperate zones where plants need time to recover before fall.

Once the trimmings are gathered, there is still plenty of opportunity in what to plant in August to fill a gap, refresh a container, or make plans for the cooler months ahead.

Start With Clean, Sharp Tools

Before approaching any plant with intent, give your pruning tools a moment of attention. Blunt blades crush stems rather than cutting them cleanly, which is rather like trying to slice a tomato with a deck chair.

For everyday jobs, I reach for bypass secateurs such as these Okatsune secateurs from Amazon. For mature wood, Corona loppers from Amazon give you reach and leverage without requiring the upper-body strength of a medieval blacksmith. A Silky pruning saw from Amazon is useful for the occasional old cane or branch that has become too stout for pruners.

Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol between plants, especially if anything looks diseased. And wear gloves: roses, in particular, have an unnerving ability to locate the one patch of skin you neglected to cover.

Tidy Rambling Roses After Their Main Display

Rambling roses make a spectacular early-summer performance, then seem to retire backstage in a tangle of long canes and fallen petals. August is a good moment to restore a little order once their main flush has finished.

Remove a few of the oldest, flowered canes right down at the base, then tie in vigorous new stems to wires or a support. These younger canes are the ones that will carry next year’s flowers.

Shorten unruly side shoots to around two or three leaves from the main framework, but resist the temptation to shear everything into a neat dome. A rambler should look generous and romantic, not like a green pom-pom with thorns.

I have learned, usually while standing on a ladder with a rose hooked into my sweater, that tying in comes before cutting. You can see the plant’s true structure only once its best new growth has been gently persuaded into place. Climbing plants don't always have to grow up trellis, and our guide will give you lots of inspirational alternatives.

Put Wisteria Back In Its Place

Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda) is glorious in bloom and entirely without manners afterward. Given a summer, it will explore gutters, windows, rooflines, and potentially your neighbor’s opinions on property boundaries.

In August, shorten this season’s long, whippy shoots to five or six leaves from their base. This neatens the plant, lets in more sun, and helps encourage the formation of flower buds for next year. Keep the permanent framework intact; it is the elegant skeleton on which the whole theatrical display depends.

Use pruning shears for pencil-thick shoots and a pruning saw only for genuinely old wood. Never make every cut identical, as though you are trimming a hedge in a municipal parking lot.

Follow each shoot back to a sensible bud or side branch. If you are adding a climber to a fence or pergola, our advice on what to do with wisteria will save a great deal of future negotiation.

Refresh Catmint For A Second, Softer Flush

Catmint (Nepeta spp.) is one of the most forgiving perennials in the summer garden. Its first flowering often ends in a faintly melancholy puddle of gray-green stems and spent blue flowers, as though it has been caught in a rainstorm after a very good party.

Shear the whole clump back by around one-third to one-half after the first major bloom. Make a rounded cut, leaving healthy foliage and a few inches of stem above the crown. Water afterward if conditions are dry, and you may be rewarded with a fresh, more compact flowering later in the season.

This is a very satisfying job: rapid, low-risk, and instantly transformative. In Zones 3–8, catmint is generally tough enough to shrug off the haircut and get on with things. It is also among the most generous plants for pollinators, so leave any flowers that are still buzzing with activity until their visitors have moved on.

Cut Back Hardy Geraniums That Have Gone Flat

Hardy geraniums, not to be confused with annual pelargoniums, often produce a long and lovely early-summer display before splaying across neighboring plants with the languid confidence of a guest who has stayed through breakfast.

By August, many varieties benefit from a firm cutback. Remove the tired flower stems and trim the foliage to a few inches above the soil, taking care not to damage the crown. In warm, dry regions, water deeply afterward; in cooler temperate areas, the plant will often respond with handsome fresh leaves and, in some cases, a second scattering of bloom.

I tend to tackle hardy geraniums in stages, leaving any clumps that still look lively and cutting back only the ones that have become floppy. It keeps the border from briefly resembling a freshly mown lawn. Pair the revived foliage with late performers such as salvias or rudbeckias for a sunning late summer evening display.

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Deadhead And Lightly Shape Summer Spirea

Japanese spirea (Spiraea japonica) is one of those useful flowering shrubs that will work remarkably hard if you meet it halfway. Once the flat pink or white flower clusters have faded, deadhead them promptly by cutting back to a healthy set of leaves.

For a tired, straggly plant, lightly shorten the outer stems to restore a neat outline, but do not reduce it savagely in August. This is a grooming session, not a demolition project. The goal is to encourage a possible repeat bloom and keep the shrub looking intentional through fall.

Spirea is hardy in many temperate gardens, commonly Zones 4–8, and handles the changeable conditions of late summer with admirable composure. I particularly like it near ornamental grasses, where its tidy mounds provide a useful contrast. A few minutes spent deadheading is one of those summer gardening jobs that makes the whole border look more awake.

Keep Honeysuckle Flowering Where You Can

Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.) can be an enchanting climber: scented, generous, and beloved by hummingbirds and moths. It can also, when neglected, become a knot of old stems that appears to have been assembled by a determined spider.

For repeat-flowering types, remove spent blooms and shorten the flowering side shoots lightly after the main flush. If there are dead, weak, or crossing stems, take those out completely. Keep the principal stems tied to their support, then work slowly from the outside in; this prevents the kind of accidental pruning that leaves you holding the only branch that mattered.

The exact timing varies by species and climate, so avoid a major renovation in August. In Zones 4–9, light summer shaping is usually enough to maintain a healthy, flowering plant. For a little more fragrance near seating areas, climbing plants for pots offer plenty of companions for honeysuckle.

Neaten Escallonia After Flowering

Escallonia is an excellent evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub for mild, coastal, or sheltered gardens, with glossy leaves and clusters of pink, red, or white flowers. Once flowering finishes in late summer, a light trim prevents it becoming leggy and keeps hedges pleasingly dense.

Use hand pruners rather than hedge shears if possible such as these secateurs from Amazon, cutting individual shoots back to a side branch. It takes longer, yes, but the result looks natural and allows light into the plant. If yours is used as a hedge, a restrained clip is perfectly acceptable; just avoid cutting back into old, leafless wood, which may not regenerate willingly.

Escallonia is best suited to milder temperate conditions, typically Zones 7–9, and deserves a position out of harsh winter wind. It is especially effective in a low-maintenance garden with evergreen structure, where its foliage quietly earns its keep all year.

Give Faded Salvias A Second Chance

Perennial salvias are the reliable extroverts of the August border. They flower generously, attract pollinators in droves, and then, after the first big display, look a little as if they have forgotten why they came into the room.

Snip away spent flower spikes to just above a strong pair of leaves, working through the plant as flowers fade. I like using a pair of Okatsune snips from Amazon to get into tight spaces. If most spikes are finished, cut the entire plant back by roughly one-third, keeping plenty of leafy growth below the cuts. Water well in dry weather, and a second flush is often not far behind.

For hardy varieties in Zones 4–9, this is a simple route to a longer season of color. I favor doing it in the cool of morning, preferably with coffee nearby, because a salvia border full of bees is not an activity to rush. The same thoughtful approach works for the plants to deadhead in August, where a small cut can keep flowers coming until fall.

The best August pruning is selective, calm, and based on what is actually in front of you. Remove what has flowered, flopped, crossed, or outgrown its allotted space; leave healthy growth to capture the last generous weeks of summer.

A sharpened blade, good gloves, and a little botanical restraint will take you a long way. Most plants do not need a dramatic intervention. They simply need you to look closely, make a few confident cuts, and then stand back long enough to admire the improvement.

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Most people are very busy during the summer. Family activities, holidays, and social functions all demand our attention, and sometimes the garden is the unfortunate one left behind. Even if you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, you can keep your outdoor space looking good.

To help you put together an achievable summer gardening checklist for when you are short of time, I consulted some experts. They picked their top summer jobs for a homeowner who can commit to gardening for 15 minutes a day in their busy lives. These focused jobs can keep a garden looking pleasant and full of blooms without exhaustive effort.

It is all about figuring out the high-priority tasks for each 15-minute block. Abandon any dreams of clearing the whole garden, but focus on what needs to be done each day. Key jobs like weeding, watering (you can get a soil moisture meter from Amazon), deadheading, feeding, supporting plants, propagating and more can all be done in small windows.

Stop Weeds From Seeding

It may never be the most glamorous or enjoyable task (though I do know some gardeners who love spending time getting rid of weeds), but weeding is always essential in summer.

The adage goes ‘one year of seeds, seven years of weeds’, and it is true that letting weeds set seed creates a snowball effect of issues. To stop future you having to deal with even more weeds, set aside some 15-minute blocks for this task.

‘Pulling weeds before they produce seeds can help prevent thousands of weed seeds from landing in your garden,’ says Justin Hancock, Horticulturist for Costa Farms. ‘And the younger a weed is, the smaller the root system and the easier it is to pull. So even if you just pull a couple of weeds every day, it can make a difference.’

Smaller weeds can be removed quickly with a garden hoe, but older or tap-rooted weeds need a more thorough approach. You need to use a type of weeder that guarantees you remove the entire plant and its roots to prevent it from resprouting. This can be a fork or a hand weeding tool like this at Walmart to lever weeds out of the soil.

As you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day, set realistic goals for weeding. Your borders or raised beds may be weedy, but remain focused on weeding quickly. ‘I would not worry about making every bed spotless, but I would absolutely pull anything that is about to seed,’ adds Alex Wright, the Founder of YardCalc.

Water to Keep Plants Alive

There is no escaping that if you are gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, much of that time may be taken up by watering plants in hot weather. However, be selective about what you focus on, as some plants need more watering in a heatwave than others.

‘Focus on keeping plants, especially this year's additions, alive,’ recommends Marian Keith, Horticulturist at Newfields in Indianapolis, Indiana. Also, seedlings and plants growing in pots in container gardens need to be at the top of your watering hit-list.

Water deeply to deliver the moisture to the roots. You should ideally water the garden in the morning, so plants have time to hydrate before temperatures rise. You can water in the evening, but take extra care to water the base of the plant, not the foliage.

Alex Wright advocates for proactive planning. He recommends using watering tools or a timer, so this time-consuming task doesn’t take up your 15 minutes of gardening time.

‘Drip irrigation or even a basic hose timer changes the whole equation,’ he says. ‘Watering is super important, especially for containers, raised beds, and new plantings, but it is also one of the easiest garden jobs to automate.

‘If you only have a few minutes a week, I would rather use that time on the things a timer cannot do.’

You can get an automatic timer at Garden in Minutes that has a simple dial for set-up and two outlets – perfect for attaching to drip irrigation, soaker hoses, sprinklers, or just a garden hose.

Deadhead to Extend the Show

Flower beds and container displays may start to look past their best as the first blooms go over. If you can commit time to deadheading flowers during summer, you can extend your display of blooms and keep the garden full of color.

Christina Stembel, founder and CEO of Farmgirl Flowers, admits she often has 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes in the evening to garden. She picks tasks according to what needs most attention each day.

‘One day it's deadheading because the blooms are literally dead and failing to remove them will probably prevent a second flush. The next day it's weeding because the weeds are gobbling up all the resources,’ says Christina.

‘Right now, my 15 minutes in the morning is usually spent deadheading to keep our flowers flowering through August and into September.’

Removing the old flowers tidies borders and stops plants putting energy into producing seeds. That energy goes back into developing buds and opening new flowers. If you can find time to deadhead flowers in August, your garden will keep putting on a glorious show for longer.

A pair of pruning snips (such as these Japanese pruning snips on Amazon) or shears is a perfect tool for deadheading. You can snap some blooms off between your fingers and thumb, but you must be careful not to damage any stems or unopened flowers.

Fertilize Plants in Containers

Summer can be taxing for any plants in pots. The warm temperatures mean the limited moisture in the soil disappears quickly, and nutrients quickly leach from the containers. It can leave plants starved and looking past their best in summer.

‘When I have 15 minutes to spare, I turn my attention to my potted plants,’ says Tenielle Jordison, garden content editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘They can start to look a little tired after such a hot summer, so I give them some extra nourishment.’

It shouldn’t take long to rejuvenate container plants and help to keep annual flowers blooming for longer in pots.

‘If the potting mix is hard and compacted, I first gently loosen it with a hand fork. Then, a balanced all-purpose liquid fertilizer (like this TPS one on Amazon) gives my plants a quick boost,’ adds Tenielle.

‘A layer of compost or potting mix can also be helpful, replenishing nutrients and topping up soil that has depleted over time, whether from watering or decomposition.’

You can get a bag of organic potting mix at Burpee to top up containers and give them a late summer boost.

Check For Disease

There can be many potential diseases around in the summer. Warm, humid weather, along with garden watering mistakes like soaking the foliage, leads to common diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, blight, and more, which trouble both ornamental and edible plants.

When it comes to diseases or summer garden pests, it is best to act fast and nip problems in the bud to stop them from spreading. As you are out gardening for 15 minutes a day, keep your eyes peeled for fungal coatings on leaves, yellowing foliage, or other markings.

‘Just like with weeds, diseases are easier to deal with if you catch them early,’ says Justin Hancock. ‘Removing an affected leaf at the start of an infection can help stop that infection from spreading further. And it keeps your garden looking better.’

Always clean your pruning tools with sanitizing sprays or wipes (available at Walmart) after removing any diseased leaves, to prevent spreading the issue to other plants.

Alternatively, you can get a ready-to-use copper fungicide at Amazon that gardeners can use to treat many diseases, including mildews, blight, black spot, and more.

Check Plants Are Supported

Christina Stembel adds that another of her regular 15-minute jobs is ‘adding more supports to the dahlias so they don't topple over from the weight of the heads’. While out in the yard, gardeners should also take time to check their plant supports to ensure they are fully protected from wind damage or buckling under the weight of flowers or fruit.

Top-heavy flowers like dahlias, delphiniums, peonies, or phlox, or weighty fruit-bearing crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, or eggplant all need strong supports. Dry soil will contract in the summer and can loosen stakes like bamboo canes or wooden posts. Check that your plant supports are firm in the ground, and push them deeper as required.

These plants can also need new plant ties to keep them supported by the posts. Add any new ties as needed to stop stems snapping and ruining potential flowers or crops. Always use soft plant ties, such as these Velcro garden ties at The Home Depot, and never use wire or hard plastic as they can rub and even snap the stems.

Do Some Quick Propagation to Plug Gaps

Extreme summer heat can take its toll around the garden. If your garden has experienced losses, don’t just rue lost plants. There are new ones you can replace them with.

That list includes heat-tolerant perennials you can plant in August, like coneflowers or black-eyed Susan, to fill gaps and enjoy a fall display. And there are fast-growing flowers to sow in August, like calendula or sweet alyssum, that have time to give you late-season blooms.

Sedum ranks among the former, a low-maintenance perennial you can add for late-summer and fall blooms that will attract pollinators.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, suggests a quick and easy way to grow sedums without needing to head to the garden center and spend money on new plants.

'I've lost quite a few annuals to the heatwave this year, so I've been filling gaps in my containers with a super quick propagation trick,’ she reveals.

‘I snip short, single stems off a lovely trailing sedum, which I love for its blue-grey foliage and tolerance of full sun. I immediately pop them into gaps and sprinkle with water, and within a week I can see new growth.

‘It is the easiest and most reliable plant I have ever multiplied, and it's ideal for right now, when the temperatures are still high.'

You can also take plant cuttings of sedums and start them in pots, rather than place them in the garden. If you only have 15 minutes in the garden, getting new plants for free seems like a very effective use of your time.

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If you prefer low-maintenance backyard ideas to intensive gardening, our guide to ‘the 10 minute garden’ might be perfect for you. It features inspirational ideas for a glorious garden that needs just 10 minutes of maintenance a week.

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Coneflowers steal the show during August. Clustered together, in full bloom, they make a dazzling sight with their long petals, in delicious shades of dusky pink, vanilla and soft white shining in contrast against the raised dark centers.

Magnets for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, these sun loving perennials are easy to care for and their appeal lasts long after the petals fade. Not only do their striking seedheads add texture and seasonal interest when left intact on the upright stems but they are packed with nutritious seeds that are highly prized by garden finches, bluejays and cardinals throughout fall and winter.

Knowing how to grow coneflowers (echinacea) - is pretty straightforward but there are some care tasks that should be tackled during August. Equip yourself with sturdy pair of Felco Pruning Snips from Amazon and read more about when to remove and leave fading flowers, damaged stems and other late summer coneflower issues.

Stop Feeding Coneflowers For Healthier Plants

August is the time to stop fertilizing coneflowers, in fact these short-lived perennials should rarely need feeding if the growing conditions are right.

'Native plants adapted to the local region don't need fertilization, especially when grown in healthy soil,' says Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation, Mary Phillips. 'Excess fertilizer can actually encourage lush, weak foliage growth at the expense of blooms. Instead, focus on building healthy soil with organic matter such as compost and leave natural plant material in place where possible.'

Consider the best coneflowers varieties for your plot; there are plenty of irresistible offerings at Burpee, including Butterfly Kisses Echinacea Purpurea.

Work well rotted organic compost such as this R&M compost from Amazon into the soil around the base of the plant or learn how to make compost using your own garden and kitchen waste.

Manage deadheading coneflowers for a smooth transition into fall

Each raised and slightly bristly coneflower centre harbors a surprising number of seeds, presenting the wildlife loving gardener with a tricky dilemma. When is it best to stop deadheading blooms - pausing the formation of future blooms - and leave the seedheads to die back naturally?

'By late summer, it's a good time to start shifting the mindset from maintaining the garden to creating wildlife,' says Mary. 'Rather than cutting coneflowers back as soon as flowers fade, allow the stalks and seedheads to remain standing through fall and winter. They provide food for birds, structure for the garden, and places for insects to shelter and overwinter.'

Can't bear to bid the vibrant blooms goodbye? then selective deadheading can prove a handy compromise, as Mary explains. 'Gardeners who want to extend lowering can selectively deadhead some blooms while leaving others to mature into seedheads.'

Coneflower is one of the best plants for attracting American Goldfinches into your yard. Provide a natural feast for the eyes and seed-eating birds by weaving 'Ruby Star' Coneflower from Nature Hills through a mixed bed of ornamental grasses or fill planters with attention grabbing varieties such as native 'Green Twister' coneflower and the sweeping petals of 'Pale Purple' Coneflower, both from Plant Addicts.

Only Remove Dead Or Diseased Stems

There's no need to routinely cut back coneflower stems at the end the summer. Robbing the plant of late blooms, valuable seedheads and the opportunity to replenish its energy reserves before winter dormancy, experts now advise to leave the plant to die back naturally.

That said, there are exceptions. 'It is important to cut back any diseased or dead steams in Fall or even in Winter dormancy,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This will help protect the plant against any future infestation or fungal issues the following Spring when the new growth emerges. When cutting back the dead stems, prune to about 1-2 inches above the ground using a clean pruners.'

Hand shears such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Walmart will do the job, but remember to limit the spread of any fungal spores by disposing of infected plant material in the household garbage rather than the compost heap.

Stake Coneflower As And When Needed

August is the last month where coneflowers are actively growing, so it pays to let them harvest all the energy they can, to strengthen root systems ready for the dormant season and following spring, when growth resumes.

Although fairly robust plants, occasional summer storms can take their toll and damage stems and foliage. Provide support to help aid stem recovery, as landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman explains.

'If staking is needed, utilize 3-5 stakes around the mass with loose twine. Don’t try to stake each stem, rather stake it in a bunch to retain the strength of the massing,'

While regular bamboo canes such as these from Walmart will do the job, they look very visible. Instead opt for an elegant metal peony support like this from Amazon or rustic spiral plant supports from Agriframes.

Save Some Seeds To Grow On

Coneflowers are prolific seed producers and late summer is the perfect time to harvest them. Whether you are looking to gather and raise your own plants from seed or pass seeds on to friends, it's time to get gathering and discover the seed harvesting mistakes to avoid.

Look for fading blooms with dark, plump and firm central cones, and snip them off with 4-5in (20-22.5cm) stem intact. Place stems upside down in a paper bag, with ends of the stem protruding, secure the bag around the stems with a length of twine a hang in a warm, dry yet well ventilated spot for 1 to 2 weeks.

Once dry, the seeds will fall from the seedhead into the bag. Use these garden tweezers from Walmart to remove the chaff and stems. Store seed until needed in these brown kraft bags with window, from Amazon.

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Keep these eye-catching perennials in good shape for next year by learning how to winterize coneflowers in 5 steps.

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Cosmos are at their best in August, filling flower beds and containers with a froth of daisy-like blooms in shades of white, pink, and crimson. If you grew cosmos from seed this year, August is the month when a little attention can keep plants flowering generously well into early fall.

If you want to grow cosmos, you’ll find they are relatively low-maintenance and easy to care for through the summer. There are also plenty of types of cosmos to choose from, offering different flower colors and forms for borders, containers, and cutting gardens.

Rather than fussing over them, concentrate on regular deadheading, watering when necessary, and giving tall plants a little support. These simple August tasks can help keep your plants healthy and flowering for weeks to come.

1. Keep Deadheading Cosmos

One of the most useful jobs to do with cosmos in August is deadheading – and yes, deadheading is one of those simple garden tasks that can make a noticeable difference. Once a flower has faded, snip it off just above a healthy set of leaves or a developing flower bud. A pair of fine garden snips makes this quick and precise.

For a budget-friendly option, the Felco F322 Pruning Snips are designed for precise trimming and are available from Amazon.

Deadheading prevents the plant from putting too much energy into producing seed and encourages it to keep making new flowers. It also keeps plants looking fresh, particularly in flower beds where faded blooms can quickly become noticeable. If you want cosmos to self-seed, however, you don’t need to remove every spent flower. Leave a few seedheads to mature toward the end of summer, particularly if you like the idea of cosmos returning in unexpected places next year.

Another option is the Corona ErgoCUT Dead Header, available from Lowe’s and specifically designed for removing spent flowers.

2. Water During Dry Spells

Established cosmos are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions, but container-grown plants need more regular attention. If you're learning how to water plants in a heatwave, check pots frequently during hot or dry August weather and water thoroughly when the potting mix feels dry. A watering wand, such as the Melnor 8-Pattern Soft Touch Watering Wand from The Home Depot, makes it easy to direct water around the roots without disturbing the plant.

Water at the base rather than over the foliage, ideally in the morning or evening. Cosmos are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but still benefit from a thorough drink during prolonged heat. For smaller containers, the Chapin 2-Gallon Tru-Stream Watering Can from The Home Depot is a practical option. Avoid keeping the potting mix soggy, as cosmos prefer well-drained conditions.

There’s usually no need to feed cosmos growing in the ground if they’re flowering well. Too much high-nitrogen fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so focus on consistent watering during extended dry spells.

3. Support Tall Plants

By August, some cosmos can become impressively tall, particularly if they’re growing in fertile soil. Heavy rain and summer winds can cause them to flop, so check plants regularly and add support before they fall over. The Luster Leaf Link-Ups Grow-Through Round Grid Plant Support from Target is a discreet option that helps keep stems upright, while Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon are useful for taller plants that need a little extra support.

Simple stakes, discreet plant supports, or twine can all do the job. Place supports around plants while they’re still upright, rather than trying to lift stems after they’ve collapsed. If you’re growing cosmos in a more informal, cottage-garden-style planting, a little flopping isn’t necessarily a problem. Letting stems lean into neighboring plants can create a relaxed effect, provided they aren’t smothering other flowers.

4. Cut Cosmos for the House

August is an excellent time to cut cosmos for a vase. I like to pick mine in the morning, when the stems are well hydrated and the petals have just opened. I remove the lower leaves and place the stems straight into water, then keep the vase somewhere cool and out of strong sunlight. I also change the water regularly to keep the flowers looking fresh.

For a simple arrangement, a Threshold Tall Glass Vase from Target works well for showing off long cosmos stems, while Floralife Flower Food, available on Amazon, can help extend vase life. I find that regular cutting encourages the plants to produce even more flowering stems, so I don’t hesitate to bring plenty indoors. A generous handful of cosmos makes a pretty late-summer arrangement, either on its own or mixed with other garden flowers.

5. Let Some Seedheads Develop

If you want to grow cosmos again next year, I like to leave a few flowers on the plant to go to seed toward the end of the season. Once the seedheads have dried and turned brown, collect the seeds on a dry day and store them somewhere cool and dry. I find these Glass Mason Jars from Amazon work well for keeping saved seeds dry and labeled until spring.

You can also leave a few seedheads in place and let them shed their seeds naturally. Cosmos can self-seed readily in suitable conditions, although young plants may not appear exactly where you expect them. Keep in mind that some cultivated varieties may not come true from saved seed, so the resulting plants can sometimes differ from the parent.

What Not to Do With Cosmos in August

There’s no need to cut back healthy cosmos simply because they’ve become tall. If your plants are flowering well, leave them be, apart from regular deadheading and a little support for wayward stems. August is also not the time to overfeed them. Cosmos are naturally vigorous, and overly rich soil can encourage lush foliage without giving you more blooms.

Instead, keep your August care simple: deadhead spent flowers, water during prolonged dry spells, support tall stems, and cut blooms regularly for the vase. With these few jobs taken care of, your cosmos can keep flowering well into fall, often until the first frost.

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Relentless summer heat and drought can really take it out of roses. It can leave you with wilted, drooping blooms and scorched foliage. But, with a little TLC you can nurture your roses back to good health and revive them once again.

Growing roses requires some particular care when hot temperatures arrive in summer. Although some types like Knock Out Roses (which you can find at Plant Addicts) are much more tolerant, many roses don't do well in prolonged dry, hot conditions. If yours look tired after a long summer, focus on watering, mulching, and providing some afternoon shade – soon, they'll bounce back.

The most important thing is to not to stress your rose further by making some common mistakes, especially around pruning and fertilizing. Here, we talk through how to successfully revive roses after a heatwave.

1. Water Deeply

When a heatwave hits, soil dries out quickly. For roses which prefer consistent moisture, this can cause dehydration.

'Stressed roses can be encouraged back to healthy growth by thoroughly hydrating them,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'It's important to soak the root ball by giving roses a deep watering – providing just a slight sprinkling of water simply won’t suffice. You should ideally give them at least five liters of water each time after a heatwave, and continue to water deeply every few days until the temperatures return to normal,' Drew advises.

'Where you can, water in the morning so the roses have hours to take the moisture in before the temperatures rise. Roses in containers will need more regular watering, potentially daily,' he continues.

When watering roses, aim at the base of the plant to avoid splashing on the foliage, which can cause rose diseases to spread like black spot and powdery mildew.

'In extreme cases, you can place the whole container into a large bucket of water. If you are using a watering can or garden hose, give the plant enough moisture that the water starts draining out of the holes at the base of the pot,' Drew adds.

'Keep checking the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, either with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon), and if it feels dry, water the rose.'

2. Add Mulch

The next step is to ensure your rose doesn't lose moisture too quickly, especially if temperatures are still high. One of the best ways to do this is by mulching.

You want to put down 2-3" of compost, bark chip, or something like this Lowe's brown mulch around the base of your rose. Though, you should avoid putting it right up against the rose's base, as it can cause rot.

This will help lock in moisture, keeping roots hydrated. It will also help regulate soil temperature to reduce heat stress.

There are lots of other types of mulch to choose from, many of which you can source from your own garden for free.

3. Avoid Pruning

When your rose is already showing signs of stress, it's best not to prune your rose heavily. As tempting as it is to remove the unsightly scorched and discolored leaves, trimming your plant now could cause it more harm.

In fact, if another heatwave is forecast in the next few weeks, hold off on removing any foliage. Partially scorched leaves can provide shade and shield healthy foliage from the sun.

If you do want to do a bit of tidying, focus on removing the fully brown, damaged stems, leaves, and blooms. You should use clean and sharp pruning snips (like these Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon) to do this.

Take care to wear thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) to protect your arms when tending to roses.

4. Shield It From Sun

If there's one thing your rose doesn't need after being stressed by the sun, it's even more intense sun and heat. For this reason, it's important to shield it during the hottest part of the day in the early afternoon.

If you're growing your rose in a pot, you can move it to a shadier spot.. Avoid a heat-reflecting wall and scorching pavers, as this can have the opposite effect and trap heat around your rose.

For ground-planted roses, consider installing a shade cloth (like this from Amazon) or even an umbrella to provide temporary garden shade.

5. Don't Fertilize

While there is an opportunity to fertilize roses mid-summer after the first flush of blooms, it's best to hold off in a heatwave and while your plant is recovering.

When the soil is hot and dry, a build-up of salt from the fertilizer can cause root burn and weaken your rose even more.

Not only this, but giving your rose a boost of essential plant nutrients can encourage new leafy growth that is susceptible to heat and drought stress.

Instead, focus on watering your rose deeply to rehydrate it. You could even use these self-watering terracotta spikes on Amazon to provide more consistent moisture.

What to Shop

It's never too early to start planning for winterizing your roses. Just like extreme heat, extreme frost can also wipe out your roses. You may want to invest in a frost cloth (like this from Amazon), for example.

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Agapanthus is one of the standout stars of the late-summer garden, producing elegant globe-shaped blooms in shades of blue, purple, and white just as many other perennials begin to fade. While these plants are still putting on a show in August, now is the perfect time to give them a little attention if you want an even better display next year.

Whether you're just learning how to grow agapanthus or already have established clumps in your yard, a few simple maintenance jobs this month will help extend flowering, strengthen the plant before dormancy, and encourage healthier growth for the season ahead. The same care applies whether your agapanthus is growing in the ground or in containers.

If you're inspired to expand your collection, now is also a great time to make a note of the best agapanthus varieties that have performed well in your area, so you can add new plants to your garden in spring or fall, depending on your USDA hardiness zone.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers

One of the easiest August jobs is to deadhead agapanthus as the faded flower heads begin to finish blooming. Removing spent blooms helps the plant direct its energy into strengthening the roots rather than producing seeds, which can support healthier growth and better flowering next season.

Using clean, sharp pruners, cut each spent flower stem back to the base without damaging the surrounding foliage. A reliable pair of pruning shears, such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, makes it easy to create clean cuts while protecting the plant.

If you'd like to collect seed or leave the decorative seed heads for late-season interest, allow a few blooms to mature naturally. For smaller trimming jobs and precise cuts, Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, are another handy tool to keep in your gardening kit.

2. Water During Hot, Dry Weather

Established agapanthus is fairly drought-tolerant once mature, but flowering plants still benefit from deep watering during extended periods of heat, especially across hotter parts of the U.S.

Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil become dry rather than watering little and often. Deep watering encourages stronger root growth and helps support flowering through the hottest weeks of summer. Container-grown agapanthus will usually need more frequent watering than plants growing in garden beds, as pots dry out much more quickly.

Always allow excess water to drain freely to avoid waterlogged roots. For more consistent watering, a GARDENA AquaZoom Oscillating Sprinkler, available from Amazon, can help deliver even coverage across garden beds without creating areas of standing water, making it useful during prolonged dry spells.

3. Give It One Final Feeding

If you've been feeding your plants throughout the growing season, August is usually the last month to fertilize agapanthus before growth begins to slow. Giving your plants one final feed now helps replenish energy reserves while supporting healthy roots and next year's flowers. Apply a balanced fertilizer, or one slightly higher in potassium, to support flowering, then stop feeding by late August or early September. Continuing to fertilize into fall can encourage tender new growth that's more susceptible to cold damage.

A balanced granular feed such as Espoma Garden-Tone Organic Plant Food, available from Amazon, is a good choice for established agapanthus growing in borders, providing slow-release nutrients through the end of the growing season. If you're growing agapanthus in containers, Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food is another great option, delivering a potassium-rich boost before it's time to stop feeding for the year.

4. Check for Pests and Diseases

Late summer is a good opportunity to inspect your plants for summer pests before the growing season comes to an end. Alongside common problems such as aphids and slugs, gardeners should also keep an eye out for agapanthus gall midge, a tiny pest whose larvae feed inside developing flower buds, causing them to become swollen, distorted, and fail to open. Look out for:

• Slugs and snails feeding on foliage
• Aphids gathering around flower stems
• Agapanthus gall midge causing distorted or unopened flower buds
• Yellowing leaves caused by poor drainage
• Signs of crown or root rot in consistently wet soil

Removing damaged growth and dealing with problems early will help keep plants healthy heading into fall. For slugs and snails, Sluggo Snail & Slug Killer, available from Amazon, is a popular pet-friendly bait for protecting ornamental plants. If aphids become a problem, Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available on Amazon, can be used on ornamental plants to control soft-bodied insects when applied according to the label directions.

5. Resist the Urge to Divide

If your agapanthus is looking crowded, it's usually best to wait before you divide plants. In much of the U.S., spring is the ideal time to divide evergreen agapanthus, while gardeners in warmer USDA Zones 8–11 may also divide deciduous varieties in early fall after flowering has finished.

Dividing during the heat of August can place unnecessary stress on the plant and reduce next year's flowering. Fortunately, agapanthus often blooms best when slightly root-bound, so frequent division isn't necessary unless the clump has become overcrowded or flowering has noticeably declined.

6. Prepare Container Plants for Cooler Weather

If you're growing agapanthus in containers, August is a good time to think ahead to winter protection. Gardeners in USDA Zones 8–11 can usually leave hardy agapanthus outdoors year-round. In colder regions, however, container-grown plants are more vulnerable because their roots aren't insulated by the surrounding soil, so plan to move pots into a sheltered garage, greenhouse, or other frost-free location before hard freezes arrive.

Checking containers now for good drainage and deciding where they'll overwinter makes the seasonal transition much easier. If moving large pots is likely to be a challenge, a plant caddy with locking wheels, such as the Bosmere Down Under Plant Caddie available from Amazon, can make it much easier to relocate heavy containers when colder weather arrives.

FAQs

Should I Cut Back Agapanthus in August?

Do not cut back agapanthus in August. Instead, deadhead spent flower stems as they fade, but leave the healthy foliage in place. The leaves continue to photosynthesize after flowering, storing energy in the roots that will fuel next year's blooms. Wait until the foliage naturally turns yellow or brown in fall before cutting it back, as removing green leaves too early can reduce flowering the following season.

Can I Plant Agapanthus in August?

In warmer parts of the U.S., container-grown agapanthus can be planted successfully in August if it's watered regularly while establishing. In colder regions, spring is generally a better planting time, giving roots several months to establish before winter.

With just a little attention in August, your agapanthus will finish the growing season in excellent health and store the energy it needs for another spectacular floral display next summer. Deadheading, watering wisely, and preparing plants for the changing seasons now are simple jobs that can make a noticeable difference when your agapanthus bursts back into bloom next year.

Growing angelonia in pots is my favorite answer to the annual midsummer question: what can possibly look good when the patio feels like the surface of the sun? Summer snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia) takes heat, humidity, and bright sunshine in its stride, flowering for months in containers with remarkably little fuss. Better still, its nectar-rich blooms can bring butterflies and hummingbirds close enough to inspect your iced tea.

It has the useful upright poise of a snapdragon but none of that plant’s tendency to wilt theatrically once summer arrives. Angelonia is a tender perennial in USDA Zones 9–11 and an exceptionally useful annual in cooler temperate zones.

It also earns a place among the heat-tolerant containers that keep pots colorful into fall, particularly when everything else has started behaving as though August were a personal insult. These angelonia seeds from Amazon are all you need to get started.

Why Angelonia Is The Plant I Reach For In A Heatwave

Angelonia has been bred for precisely the conditions that make many container displays throw in the trowel: blazing sun, hot nights, humidity, and the occasional missed watering. It wants at least six hours of sun, well-draining potting mix, and a container with drainage holes. Give it these modest luxuries and it will produce slender spires in white, pink, lavender, purple, or blue from late spring until frost.

I use it whenever a porch, balcony, or back yard terrace needs height without the cumbersome formality of a miniature shrub. Its flower spikes create a clean vertical line, so even one plant can make a mixed pot look intentional rather than like a clearance-rack hostage situation.

Angelonia is also blessedly low-maintenance. Unlike true snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), it does not demand cooler weather, and many modern varieties bloom freely without regular deadheading. That makes it one of the most useful underrated bedding plants for gardeners who would rather be sitting on the porch than conducting a daily inspection with secateurs.

A Container With Wildlife Value

There is something cheering about watching a pot do more than simply sit there looking pretty. Angelonia’s tubular, open blooms offer nectar through the hottest part of the year, when a flowering container can become a valuable small stopover for pollinators. Butterflies readily visit it, and hummingbirds may also investigate the brightly colored flower spikes, especially when angelonia is planted alongside other nectar-rich choices.

I would not suggest relying on a single plant to create a wildlife sanctuary; nature is a demanding client, but angelonia is a wonderfully polished component of a pollinator-minded display. Pair Angelonia Blue Summer Snapdragon from Plant Addicts with compact lantana (Lantana camara), blue salvia (Salvia farinacea), or trailing calibrachoa, and you have a container that has both a sensible color scheme and a reason to hum.

For a small-space planting with even more nectar on offer, borrow from these balcony hummingbird-friendly ideas. The important thing is continuous bloom: not a one-night opera, but a proper summer season.

Pick A Variety To Suit Your Pot, Not Your Mood

Before buying, decide what role angelonia needs to play. Compact types, including the Serena and Serenita series such as 'Angelface Wedgewood Blue' from Plant Addicts, generally stay around 12–18 inches tall and suit smaller pots, window boxes, and tightly edited combinations. Larger AngelMist or Archangel selections can reach 24–30 inches and make handsome centerpieces in substantial urns.

Purple angelonia 'Cascade Blue' from Plant Addicts is the great persuader. It works beautifully with silver foliage, lime-green sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas), or white trailing flowers, and looks rather more expensive than it has any business doing. White varieties such as Angelonia 'Super White' from Plant Addicts are fresher and quieter, ideal near pale stone or a coastal-style porch. Pink varieties such as Angelonia 'Wedgewood Pink' from Plant Addicts suit terracotta, woven furniture, and a back yard where the atmosphere is intended to be “long lunch,” even if lunch is a sandwich eaten standing up.

Make The Pot Work As Hard As The Plant

A heat-tolerant plant is not an invincible one. Roots in a small black plastic pot can heat up faster than a car dashboard in July, so I prefer a generous, pale-colored, glazed ceramic container for a sunny site. It holds more potting mix, dries out less rapidly, and looks reassuringly permanent, like it has always belonged beside the front door.

Choose a pot at least 12 inches wide for one compact angelonia, or 16–18 inches wide for a fuller arrangement. Fill it with fresh, high-quality potting mix rather than garden soil, which compacts in containers and drains with all the enthusiasm of a plugged bathtub. Mix in a slow-release flowering fertilizer at planting time, then supplement with a liquid bloom feed according to the label during the growing season.

A beautiful glazed outdoor planter from Lowe’s is a practical upgrade for a hot porch. If consistent watering is the bit of gardening that tends to become aspirational, a self-watering planter from Amazon can take some pressure off, though it should still have an overflow or drainage route. Our guide to self-watering planters explains the useful distinction between steady moisture and accidental swamp.

Three Container Recipes That Never Look Frazzled

For a polished, almost Mediterranean look, plant one purple angelonia in the center of a large terracotta pot with chartreuse sweet potato vine around the edge and white bacopa (Sutera cordata) spilling over. This is the sort of combination that looks composed at breakfast and still civilized by cocktail hour.

For something bolder, try a “sunset” pot: orange lantana as the focal point, two purple angelonias for height, and white trailing lantana (Lantana montevidensis) at the rim. The colors are sunny without resembling a sports team’s merchandise, and all three plants are well suited to full sun.

My favorite is the simplest: three angelonias of one color in a wide, low planter, perhaps with a few trailing euphorbias (Euphorbia hypericifolia) to soften the edge. Repetition is deeply flattering in a container. It gives the eye a clear idea of what is happening, even when you haven't a clue.

For more help putting combinations together, this guide to pollinator-friendly patio containers is full of useful principles for mixing flowers without crowding them into botanical gridlock.

The Care Routine Is Agreeably Brief

Water newly planted angelonia thoroughly, then check containers every day during a heatwave. The plant tolerates some dryness once established, but a container is not the open prairie: it cannot send its roots off in search of a sensible drink. Water at the base when the top inch of potting mix feels dry, ideally early in the morning.

Feed every two to four weeks with a balanced or bloom-boosting liquid fertilizer, following the product directions. A water-soluble flowering fertilizer from Burpee is an easy option for regular container care. Avoid feeding a stressed, bone-dry plant first; water it, let it recover, then feed.

Pinch out a straggly stem if necessary, but do not fuss over every spent bloom. Angelonia often tidies itself, which is a rare and admirable quality in both plants and houseguests. If flowering slows, the usual culprits are insufficient sun, exhausted potting mix, or roots that have outgrown their quarters. This July container check is a sensible way to spot those problems before the display becomes genuinely mournful.

What To Do When Fall Arrives

In Zones 9–11, angelonia can behave as a short-lived perennial if protected from cold. Cut it back lightly after flowering and keep it in a frost-free position. In most temperate parts of the US, however, it is simpler and perfectly reasonable to enjoy it as an annual until the first frost.

You can move a particularly handsome container to the brightest possible spot indoors, but do not feel obliged to turn every summer plant into a winter houseguest. Gardening is meant to make life lovelier, not to create a municipal relocation program for flowers.

The real joy of growing angelonia in pots is that it makes summer gardening feel surprisingly calm.

It brings height, color, and a flutter of visiting wildlife to the porch just when the weather has made most plants, and most gardeners, rather grumpy. Plant it once, give it sun and a proper drink, and let it get on with the glamorous work.

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After years of working in gardens across Britain and Italy, I have developed a real appreciation for plants that quietly get on with the job. I think often about the old fruit trees I cared for in Tuscany: gnarled figs growing on dry stone terraces, pomegranates thriving in enormous terracotta pots and persimmons that had seemingly been left to their own devices for decades. Never fussed over, rarely watered and certainly never fertilized .

Of course, no fruit tree is completely maintenance free. All trees in our yards benefit from careful watering during the first few years, while establishing a healthy root system, and the occasional prune or feed will always improve growth and harvests. But some species are naturally resilient and tough, shrugging off drought, poor soils and periods of neglect.

So, if you are looking for resilient trees that quietly reward you with delicious harvests year after year, to plant alongside perennials you can plant once and ignore, these are seven of my favourite fruit trees that thrive on neglect. One of my favorites from this list is the olive, and I've found a perfect Arbequina olive variety from Fast Growing Trees.

1. Fig

If anyone asks me to recommend a fruit tree for a busy gardener, I almost always say fig. Native to the Mediterranean and western Asia, figs are wonderfully resilient once established, tolerating drought, poor soils and long, hot summers with remarkably little intervention.

In my family's garden in South Wales, our 'Brown Turkey' has quietly got on for years, asking for little more than a sunny position and well-drained soil. I grew this from a small cutting in 2022, and today, it stands at about five feet.

Live 'Brown Turkey' fig trees are available to order now from Amazon.

Hardy down to US zone 7, figs perform best in full sun and reward even a modest amount of care with sweet fruit in late summer.

Deep watering during prolonged drought will improve fruit production, but otherwise, figs are happiest when left largely alone. Just avoid heavy, waterlogged soils, which they dislike far more than dry conditions.

2. Persimmon

In Tuscany, we had several old persimmon trees growing at the back of the property, tucked amongst vines and wildflowers, and, despite years of apparent neglect, they produced heavy crops every fall.

They were never watered, never fed and were rarely pruned. We simply waited until November, picked the glowing (almost fluorescent) orange fruits and let them finish ripening indoors.

Hardy from US zones 7 to 10, persimmons are remarkably resilient once established. Their deep root systems help them cope with dry summers. They perform best in full sun but will also tolerate a little afternoon shade in warmer regions.

If you are looking for the easiest option, self-fertile varieties such as 'Fuyu', available now at Perfect Plants and sold via Amazon, are a good place to start.

3. Pomegranate

Native to regions stretching from the Middle East through the Mediterranean, pomegranates are hardy in US zones 7 to 10 and thrive in full sun.

Once established, they are impressively drought tolerant (I have grown them in baking courtyards in large terracotta pots), making them one of the easiest fruit trees for gardeners in warmer climates. They ask for very little beyond free-draining soil and plenty of sunshine.

During the first year or two, regular deep watering will help young trees establish strong roots. After that, they can largely fend for themselves, needing only the occasional light prune to remove dead or congested branches. If you are gardening in a colder region (like Illinois or Oregon), dwarf varieties also grow well in large containers and can be moved somewhere sheltered during severe winter cold.

Pomegranate live starter plants are available to order from Walmart.

What to Shop

4. Olive

Anyone who has grown an olive tree will know just how resilient they really are. I have seen them clinging to rocky hillsides in Italy and Greece, enduring months of baking sunshine with barely a drop of rain, but I have also seen them thrive in sheltered London courtyards, where summers are far more mild and winters much wetter. In my opinion, they are remarkably adaptable once established.

Live olive trees can be ordered today via Amazon.

Hardy in roughly US zones 8, 9 and 10 (although you might get away with growing one in zone 7 in a sheltered yard), olives perform best in full sun and well-drained soil. Their distinctive silver-green foliage is more than just attractive; it reflects sunlight, helping to reduce water loss and making olives particularly well suited to hotter summers.

Beyond removing the occasional dead branch or unwanted sucker from the base, olives require very little attention. In fact, they often look better with a little age and character. Who doesn't love seeing those gnarled, ancient trees on vacation during the summer?

5. Mulberry

I once looked after a magnificent old mulberry specimen in a Welsh garden, growing at the bottom of a damp valley beside a stream. Beyond the occasional deep watering during exceptionally hot summers, we did almost nothing to it. Every year, however, it rewarded us with handfuls of sweet fruit that were eaten straight off the branch.

You can find mulberry trees at Plant Addicts.

Hardy in US zones 4 to 8, mulberries are wonderfully resilient once established. Dwarf cultivars also grow well in containers, making them a good choice for smaller gardens and patios.

One thing to bear in mind is the species you choose. Native red mulberry (Morus rubra) is an excellent option, whereas white mulberry (Morus alba) is considered invasive in parts of the US.

6. Pawpaw

Native to woodlands across the eastern United States, the pawpaw tree is an ideal choice for gardeners who want unusual fruit without the hard work.

Live pawpaw trees can be ordered at Walmart.

Hardy down to US zones 5, pawpaw grows happily in full sun or light shade, although younger trees appreciate some protection from intense afternoon sunshine during their first few years. The broad, tropical-looking leaves can reach almost a foot long, turning a rich golden yellow in fall, while the curious maroon flowers are followed by mango-like fruits.

Give your tree a good start with fertile, well-drained soil and regular watering while it establishes. Beyond that, after the first few years, the pawpaw is one of the best fruit trees that thrive on neglect.

7. Jujube

The jujube is one of the toughest fruit trees you can grow, thriving in hot, dry summers while shrugging off winter cold. Live jujube trees can be ordered from Amazon.

Hardy in US zones 6 to 10, jujubes perform best in full sun and free-draining soil (even tolerating sand). They are naturally resistant to most pests and diseases, require very little pruning, and produce sweet fruits that ripen from green to rich reddish-brown.

Give your tree regular watering during its first year or two while the roots establish. Beyond that, jujubes are wonderfully self-sufficient.

For more inspiration, check out our guide to the toughest shrubs that thrive on neglect, and fill your yard with resilient species this year.

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It's hard to miss glorious bee balm in August. Now in full bloom with it's striking crownlike petals sitting on upright stems, these perennials are an arresting sight. Instantly recognised by their distinctive whorls of tubular petals in shades of vibrant scarlet, white, lilac to deepest carmine, they make a dazzling spectacle whether blooming centerstage in a mixed border, filling raised beds or showcased in a patio planter.

Knowing how to grow bee balm, or monarda didyma or bergamot (it's a plant of many names), is hugely rewarding, not least because it makes a fantastic cut flower and the nectar-rich blooms draws all types of bees, butterflies, moths and hummingbirds into the yard.

To keep this sun loving plant thriving through the demands of late summer and well into fall, it is important to know exactly what care bee balm needs now. We'll walk you through what you need to know, and if you want to expand your monarda collection head to Amazon for a wealth of options.

Avoid Powdery Mildew By Watering Regularly

Despite it's rigid stems and slightly bristly leaves, bee balm can be prone to powdery mildew in late summer. While not fatal, these can weaken the plant, slowing photosynthesis, flower production and distorting new growth, ruining current and future displays. Our instinct maybe to ease off the watering and let the plant 'dry' out, but experts advise otherwise.

'By August, Monarda's biggest enemy is powdery mildew, and it isn't about wet leaves, it's humidity and drought stress,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'Plants that dry out are more vulnerable, not less, so keep soil consistently moist with a deep soak once or twice a week and give plants room to breathe. Poor air circulation and a stressed, thirsty plant are the two conditions mildew loves most.'

Master gardener Tabar Gifford advises that, 'Bee balm evolved along stream banks and in moist meadows. Relatively shallow rooted, it benefits from deep watering that thoroughly wets the root zone rather than frequent light irrigation. A deep soak at the base of the plant once or twice a week is far more useful than daily light watering.'

Direct water to the area around the base of the plant with a long spout watering can - such as this Vigoro Can or extendable watering wand, both Home Depot.

Ease Off Feeding Bee Balm

By late summer plant watering and feeding routines have become second nature, but it's worth noting that as growth slows and daylight hours shorten, our usual fertilizer may no longer be exactly what our plants need.

'Resist the urge to fertilize monarda late in the growing season.' says Renee’s Garden's Trial Garden Manager, Lindsay Del Carlo. 'While it may seem like a boost would encourage more flowers, feeding plants in late summer often has the opposite effect. Fertilizer stimulates tender new growth that is unlikely to harden off before winter, leaving the plant more vulnerable to cold damage.'

Laura also agrees and adds, 'If you're cutting plants back for a second flush, a light, low-nitrogen feed afterward is enough to support new growth without overdoing it.'

Getting to know plant fertilizer numbers is easy and hugely helpful when it comes to nurturing all crops and flowers. For a low nitrogen feed look on the packaging for the three NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) figures and ensure the first figure is low in value. Consider Organic Natural Bone Meal or water soluble Miracle Gro Bloom Booster both from Lowes.

Stake Tall And Tidy Up Straggling Stems

With bee balm plants nearing their full height, some varieties can become straggly and untidy. While now is not the time for dividing plants, there are ways you can tidy up.

'Once the main flush of bloom has passed, cutting the plant back by about one-third removes tired, often mildew-touched growth and encourages a flush of fresh, compact foliage from the base,' says Tabar. 'That new growth looks considerably healthier and tends to be more self-supporting; which often solves the flopping problem more effectively than a stake.'

Of course, some stems have already been buffeted by summer storms and these welcome support. 'A grow-through stake or peony ring put in by August holds the clump together without looking obviously staked,' says Laura.

Try these spiral grow through flower hoops from Walmart or their individual single stem supports.

Deadhead Wisely

It may be a routine garden task, but by August deadheading or removing spent flowerheads is, actually, at your discretion.

Deciding factors can be your local climate, the health of your plant and whether you prioritise more bee balm blooms or leaving seedheads for fall and winter interest, plus feeding wildlife.

'Removing spent flower heads (cutting back to the next leaf or lateral bud below) can encourage a modest late flush of rebloom and keeps the plant looking considerably tidier,' explains Tabar. 'That said, I always leave some of the later seed heads in place. Goldfinches and other seed-eating birds will continue using those seedheads well into winter.'

Snip Out Mildewed Stems And Dispose Of Carefully

Lush growth, still air and humid conditions are all common factors of the August yard, and perfect for the spread of harmful powdery mildew. Knowing the best action to take when spotting the first signs on your bee balm is crucial to stop the spread.

'The good news is, on otherwise healthy, established plants powdery mildew is largely cosmetic,' remarks Tabar. 'Unless the infection is severe enough to affect the majority of the foliage and visibly reduce the plant's ability to photosynthesize, Monarda almost always returns vigorously the following spring.'

A common issue with bee balm, the best approach to take in August is prevention, as Mary Phillips, Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation explains. 'Provide adequate spacing, and avoid overhead watering. If mildew does appear, remove severely affected leaves or stems, but avoid aggressive cleanup that unnecessarily eliminates habitat.'

Disposing of cuttings also needs careful thought. 'Remove heavily affected leaves and put them in the trash rather than the compost. Hot compost is fine, but not everyone's pile gets hot enough to neutralize fungal spores,' says Tabar.

Mildew resistant bee balm varieties include the crimson 'Jacob Cline', available at American Meadows.

What to Shop

By nurturing bee balm plants you are not only supporting beneficial insects and pollinators, but filling your yard with easy, long-lasting color. Bring more pollinators into your yard by learning how to plant a drought tolerant pollinator garden and as part of a wildlife garden.

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Japanese maples are remarkable trees. Whether growing in a large backyard or a compact patio container, these elegant specimens bring beautiful color, texture, and a tranquil woodland feel to any space. But even these resilient trees can struggle during periods of extreme heat.

After this summer's heatwave, my own potted Japanese maple was left with crispy, scorched leaves – a reminder that container-grown trees and older, established specimens can both show signs of stress when temperatures soar. While heat damage can look alarming, it doesn't always mean your tree is beyond saving.

Whether you're trying to help a mature Japanese maple recover after years of growth or nursing a heat-stressed tree back to health, knowing how to revive a Japanese maple can make all the difference. Here, experts explain the simple steps that can help restore vigor and keep these graceful trees thriving for years to come.

(And just in case you're ready to add another to your collection – can you ever have too many? – the Red Dragon Japanese Maple from Fast Growing Trees would be top of my list.)

Step 1: Remove Dead Branches

If your tree has suffered during a heatwave, resist the temptation to prune heavily straight away. Although scorched leaves can look unsightly, they may still be helping the tree produce energy while it recovers. Instead, limit summer pruning to removing dead wood and leave any structural pruning until the dormant season.

Older Japanese maples can develop gnarled, damaged or dead branches over time. While it is generally best to prune Japanese maples during winter, when the bare framework makes it easier to assess the tree's structure, there is one exception: any branches that are clearly dead, broken or diseased can be removed as soon as you notice them.

When pruning in winter, if you're unsure whether a branch is alive, try gently bending smaller stems. Living wood will usually flex, whereas dead branches tend to snap cleanly. You can also lightly scratch the bark with your fingernail – green tissue beneath indicates the branch is still alive, while brown, dry wood suggests it is dead.

It's also worth removing any congested or crossing branches during winter to improve airflow through the canopy, reducing the risk of fungal diseases and creating a more balanced framework.

Always use clean, sharp pruning tools, such as these Fiskars loppers from Amazon, disinfecting the blades between cuts if you're removing diseased wood. Larger branches can be repurposed into a log pile or bug hotel to support wildlife in your yard.

Step 2: Refresh Soil and Mulch

'Japanese maples do best in woodland conditions,' says Terry Huang, plant expert and Director of Living Collections at South Coast Botanic Garden in the Los Angeles area.

'Imagine the understory of a forest,' Terry says, 'with plenty of organic material and consistent moisture. Maples prefer rich, loamy soil and good amounts of humus. They often suffer in exposed situations or places with poor soil.'

These woodland conditions also help explain why Japanese maples can struggle during prolonged heatwaves. In their natural habitat, they're protected from intense afternoon sun by a canopy of taller trees, while the humus-rich soil stays cooler and retains moisture for longer.

Woodland conditions can differ greatly from backyard borders, and so applying mulch and organic matter each year can help to feed the soil and create a woodland-like effect, thus giving your old trees and shrubs a boost. A 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch also helps to insulate the roots, keeping the soil cooler and slowing moisture loss during hot, dry weather. Organic mulch is available to order online from Amazon.

For trees grown in pots, it is a good idea to repot them every two to three years. 'Carefully remove your old tree, and repot in a slightly larger pot,' Terry says. 'Use a high-quality potting soil, ideally one that is wood-based to improve the structure of the soil and assist with water retention.'

Container-grown Japanese maples are especially vulnerable to heat stress because their compost dries out much faster than garden soil, so refreshing the potting mix every few years can improve both drainage and moisture retention. Repotting older shrubs and trees can help to revitalize your container displays for the coming year.

What to Shop

Step 3: Feed Your Trees

'Fertilizing Japanese maples is generally only necessary for specimens grown in pots,' Terry continues. 'Unless soil conditions are extremely poor in your borders, fertilizing is not necessary. Mulching will be enough to help maples grown in borders.'

If your Japanese maple has been stressed by a prolonged heatwave, focus on restoring soil moisture before reaching for fertilizer. Once the tree has recovered and temperatures begin to cool, a balanced, slow-release feed can help replenish nutrients without encouraging a flush of vulnerable new growth. Always water thoroughly before and after feeding, especially for trees growing in containers.

For those Japanese maples grown in containers, 'fertilize lightly one to two times per year, once in the spring and once in the summer,' Terry says.

It is best to use a balanced fertilizer formulated for trees and shrubs, such as tree fertilizer, available from Walmart, or this Japanese maple fertilizer, available from Amazon.

Alternatively, for an easy option, consider using tree fertilizer spikes, available from Amazon, for a quick way to feed trees in pots. Firmly position one tree spike in each pot in early spring, which will help to feed your Japanese maple over the growing season.

It is best to stop feeding your shrubs and trees by late summer. Fertilizing late in the season can do more harm than good, and this common fertilizing mistake is one to avoid.

Some gardeners also apply a liquid seaweed tonic after periods of environmental stress to support root health and recovery, although consistent watering and mulching remain the most important steps.

For information on pests, see our guide to Japanese maples with sticky leaves, which can be a result of aphids and honeydew.

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If your Thanksgiving cactus has spent summer growing quietly, August is the time to prepare it for a spectacular fall display. Although little may seem to be happening above the soil, the plant is shifting from active growth to preparing for its late-season blooms.

A few simple adjustments to your Thanksgiving cactus care routine can make all the difference as the days begin to shorten. Unlike many houseplants that simply continue growing through late summer, this seasonal bloomer benefits from changes to watering, feeding, and light conditions that encourage healthy growth and maximize flowering.

Whether your plant lives indoors year-round or has been enjoying a summer vacation on a shaded patio or porch, these are the essential August jobs to check off.

1. Keep Watering, but Don't Overdo It

During August, your Thanksgiving cactus is still actively growing, so it shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely. At the same time, it dislikes sitting in wet potting mix. If you already know how and when to water a Christmas cactus, the same principles apply here, as both holiday cacti prefer evenly moist soil during the growing season rather than constantly soggy conditions.

Water thoroughly only when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch. Allow excess water to drain away completely, and never let the pot sit in a saucer full of water, as constantly wet roots can quickly lead to root rot. If your home or outdoor space is particularly warm, the potting mix may dry out faster than earlier in the summer, so it's worth checking moisture levels regularly rather than watering on a fixed schedule.

If you're unsure whether your plant needs a drink, a simple soil moisture meter can help take the guesswork out of watering. The Luster Leaf Rapitest Moisture Meter from The Home Depot measures moisture levels at the root zone, helping prevent both overwatering and underwatering. Likewise, a long-spouted watering can, such as the Bloem Aqua Rite Watering Can from Amazon, makes it easy to direct water onto the potting mix without splashing the stems or leaving excess moisture trapped between the plant's segments.

2. Give It One Last Feeding

August is generally the final month to fertilize a Thanksgiving cactus before flower buds begin to form. If you already fertilize houseplants throughout the growing season, continue feeding your Thanksgiving cactus with a balanced liquid fertilizer, but plan to stop by late August or early September so the plant can transition naturally into its blooming cycle.

Apply the fertilizer at half strength every few weeks during active growth. Continuing to fertilize too late in the season encourages leafy growth rather than flowers, so easing off as fall approaches helps direct the plant's energy toward bud production.

If you're looking for an easy-to-use fertilizer, Miracle-Gro Succulent Plant Food, available from Amazon, is formulated for cacti and other succulents and can be applied every two weeks during the active growing season.

For a more general indoor plant fertilizer, Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food, available at The Home Depot, is another good option. Its balanced liquid formula can be diluted or applied directly to the soil, making it suitable for Thanksgiving cacti during their final feeding before bloom season.

3. Check for Pests Before Bringing Outdoor Plants Indoors

Many gardeners move their Thanksgiving cactus outdoors for the summer, where it benefits from brighter indirect light and better air circulation. If yours has been outside, inspect it carefully before bringing it indoors later in the season.

Look closely for:

• Mealybugs hiding where stem segments join
• Scale insects attached to stems
• Spider mites on stressed plants
• Slugs or snails sheltering beneath containers

Wipe the stems with a damp cloth and treat any pests promptly before they spread to your other houseplants. For light infestations of common houseplant pests, Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available on Amazon, is a useful option. It's formulated for use on ornamental plants and can help control soft-bodied insects such as mealybugs and spider mites when used according to the label directions.

4. Hold Off on Repotting Unless It's Absolutely Necessary

Although August is still part of the growing season, it's usually best to avoid repotting a Thanksgiving cactus unless it's severely root-bound or the potting mix has completely broken down. If you need to repot a cactus, remember that holiday cacti are happiest when slightly root-bound, so only move your plant into a larger container when it's genuinely outgrown its current one.

Repotting late in the season can temporarily interrupt growth just as the plant begins preparing to produce flower buds. If repotting is unavoidable, choose a container just one size larger than the current pot and use a well-draining cactus or succulent potting mix. Mixing in extra perlite or orchid bark can improve drainage even further.

A ready-made mix, such as Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix from Amazon, provides the fast-draining conditions Thanksgiving cacti need and can be amended with extra perlite if you want to improve aeration even further.

5. Start Thinking About Fall Light Conditions

Flower buds don't appear by chance. Thanksgiving cacti bloom in response to a combination of cooler temperatures and longer nights. While August is often too early to begin a strict bud-setting routine, it's a good time to plan ahead.

If your plant has been outdoors, bring it inside before nighttime temperatures consistently fall below about 50°F (10°C). Once indoors, bright indirect light during the day and long, uninterrupted periods of darkness at night later in the season will help trigger bud formation. If you don't have a naturally bright location, a GooingTop LED Grow Light, available on Amazon, can provide supplemental light during the day without exposing the plant to harsh direct sun.

Once buds begin to develop, avoid moving the plant unnecessarily, as sudden changes in light, temperature, or humidity can cause buds to drop before they open. If your home tends to be dry once the heating comes on later in the season, a compact humidifier such as the Levoit Smart Warm and Cool Mist Top-Filled Ultrasonic Humidifier and Diffuser, available from The Home Depot, can help maintain more consistent humidity around your houseplants without overwatering the soil.

6. Clean the Foliage

Dust and debris can build up on stem segments over time, especially on indoor plants. If you already clean houseplant leaves as part of your regular plant care routine, don't overlook your Thanksgiving cactus. Giving it a quick clean helps maximize photosynthesis while making it easier to spot pests or signs of disease before they become a bigger problem.

Use a soft, slightly damp microfiber cloth to gently wipe each stem segment clean. A set of Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, available from Amazon, is ideal for gently removing dust without damaging the delicate stem segments. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which aren't suitable for the plant's flattened stems.

Removing any damaged or shriveled segments at the same time will also help keep the plant looking its best heading into bloom season. Keep a pair of Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available at The Home Depot, nearby for making clean, precise cuts when trimming away dead or damaged growth.

FAQs

Should I Prune My Thanksgiving Cactus in August?

Light pruning is fine if you want to encourage a fuller, bushier plant, but avoid removing too much growth late in the season. Major shaping is best done after flowering, giving the plant plenty of time to produce new stem segments before the next blooming cycle.

Can I Leave My Thanksgiving Cactus Outside in August?

Yes, Thanksgiving cacti often thrive outdoors during August, provided they're kept in bright shade or filtered light and protected from hot afternoon sun. Keep an eye on nighttime temperatures as summer winds down, and move the plant indoors before temperatures consistently drop below 50°F (10°C). With just a few simple care adjustments, August serves as the bridge between summer growth and the blooming season ahead. Keeping your Thanksgiving cactus healthy, well-watered, and free from pests now gives it the best possible chance of producing a colorful display just in time for Thanksgiving.

August is an excellent time to divide certain tired-looking perennials, including bearded iris, daylilies, hostas, Shasta daisies, garden phlox, Oriental poppies, hardy geraniums, and astilbe. Choose a mild, overcast day, water well afterward, and make sure every new piece has healthy roots and shoots so it can settle before frost.

The telltale signs are a bare center, fewer flowers, flopping stems, or a clump that has simply become too large for its allotted patch of earth. Plants, like dinner-party guests, are much more charming when they are not sitting on top of one another.

August can be busy with sowing and planting, too, and there is plenty of inspiration in what to plant in August while you refresh the borders. For the technique itself, use the same principles explained in how to divide plants: lift, split, replant promptly, and water deeply. A sturdy border spade from Lowe’s and a hand fork from Amazon will make the job much easier.

How to Tell If a Perennial Is Ready to Divide

I tend to approach division with a mixture of optimism and a faint feeling that I am about to perform garden surgery without a medical degree. Fortunately, most established perennials are obliging patients. If a clump has a bald middle, produces smaller flowers than it once did, or has spread beyond its welcome, it is usually asking to be lifted and shared.

Late summer is most suitable for plants that have finished flowering and can make roots in warm soil before cold weather arrives. In very hot, dry regions, particularly USDA Zones 8 and above, postpone the work until temperatures soften or wait for early fall.

Bearded Iris: Bring Their Rhizomes Back to Life

Bearded iris (Iris germanica) are among the classic plants to divide in August. Their thick, knobbly rhizomes creep along the soil surface with all the discretion of a small, determined lizard, and crowded colonies soon lose their flowering swagger.

Lift the rhizomes with a fork, shake away excess soil, and cut them into pieces with a fan of leaves and a firm section of healthy rhizome attached. Trim the leaves back to around 6 inches, which helps reduce water loss while the roots re-establish. Discard any soft, hollow, or suspiciously squishy pieces; sentimentality has no place in rhizome management.

Replant each division shallowly, with the upper surface of the rhizome visible or only lightly covered in well-drained soil. This is also a sensible moment to revisit what irises need and make sure a once-floriferous clump has not been buried too deeply or shaded by enthusiastic neighbors.

Daylilies: They Reward a Little Tough Love

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) have a reputation for being nearly indestructible, which is reassuring because they can require a fair amount of muscle when mature. August division works well after flowering, especially in temperate USDA Zones 4–8, giving new plants time to root before winter.

A clump ready to divide often has congested crowns and fewer flowers around its center. Lift it, hose or shake off enough soil to see the roots, then tease sections apart by hand. If that proves impossible, use two garden forks back-to-back or cut between the crowns with a sharp spade. Each division needs a healthy fan of leaves and a generous root system.

Plant divisions at the same depth as before and keep the ground evenly moist for several weeks. Daylilies make particularly satisfying “free plants” for filling gaps, edging a path, or passing to a neighbor, provided that neighbor has not already started crossing the street to avoid your surplus zucchini. Their easy-going nature earns them a place among the most useful perennial flowers that will last for a long-season display.

Hostas: Divide Before They Become a Green Traffic Jam

Hostas can be divided in late summer in cooler or reliably watered gardens, though I avoid doing it during a heatwave. Their broad leaves lose moisture quickly, so choose a cloudy day and work efficiently. In warm climates, early fall is often kinder.

A hosta that has formed a vast, crowded mound may still look handsome, but division can improve airflow and give you several substantial new plants. Lift the root ball, then cut down through the crown with a clean spade or an old serrated knife.

There is no need to reduce a majestic specimen to dozens of sad little fragments; three or four generous divisions will establish faster and look far more convincing.

Water the replanted sections deeply and mulch with compost, keeping it clear of the crown. A bag of organic compost from Plant Addicts is useful if your soil needs improving, particularly beneath thirsty hostas. Their luscious foliage is one reason shade friendly plants need never feel like an apology for a sunny border elsewhere.

Shasta Daisies: Make More Room for Sunshine

Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum) are bright, cheerful, and after a few years, capable of becoming a rather impenetrable white-and-green scrum. Divide them after the main flowering flush, removing exhausted stems first so you can see what is going on.

Lift the clump and look for younger, vigorous growth around the outer edge. These are the pieces worth keeping. The older, woody center can be composted if it has lost its enthusiasm. Replant healthy divisions about 12–18 inches apart in full sun, watering them carefully while roots knit into the soil.

This is a perfect opportunity to move a few divisions into a sparse section of border. August is not the month for a great deal of botanical overthinking: a well-placed daisy can be surprisingly transformative, especially alongside the late summer flowers that keep a back yard looking lively as fall approaches.

Garden Phlox: It Deserves a Breath of Air

Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) brings wonderful color and fragrance to late-summer borders, but congested clumps can become more vulnerable to powdery mildew. Division is not a cure-all - good spacing and sun matter too - but it is a useful reset for plants that have been standing shoulder to shoulder for too long.

Once flowering is fading, lift the outer sections of the clump and divide them into pieces with roots and several shoots. Replant in fertile, moisture-retentive soil, allowing plenty of room between plants. This is not the moment to create a phlox convention. Airflow is vital.

I always label new divisions immediately, because every gardener is convinced they will remember exactly where the pale pink phlox went until next May, when the border becomes a botanical witness-protection program. These weatherproof plant labels from Amazon are a small but sanity-preserving investment.

Oriental Poppies: They Prefer a Quiet August Move

Oriental poppies (Papaver orientale) disappear after flowering in a dramatic annual vanishing act, leaving an empty patch of soil just when you have become fond of them. Their late-summer dormancy makes August a good time to lift and divide mature clumps, provided the soil is not parched.

Look for fleshy root sections with buds or small shoots. Cut these into substantial pieces and replant promptly, setting them in a sunny position with well-drained soil. They may look unimpressive for a while, but patience is part of the deal with Oriental poppies; they reserve their grand entrance for spring and early summer.

Do not overwater divisions in heavy soil, as the roots dislike sitting wet. A hori hori garden knife from Amazon is particularly useful here, slipping neatly between roots and doubling as a remarkably satisfying weeding tool. Their theatrical blooms are well worth considering when planning a more generous flower bed next year.

Hardy Geraniums: They Can Be Rejuvenated and Shared

Hardy geraniums are among the most useful, unfussy plants in a temperate back yard, tumbling over edges and politely knitting borders together. They can also become woody and tired in the middle, which is their discreet way of asking for attention.

After flowering, cut back the foliage, lift the clump, and divide it into healthy rooted sections. Replant in moisture-retentive but well-drained soil, then water consistently until new growth appears. If the plant is still flowering strongly in August, leave it alone and divide it in early fall instead.

The great pleasure of dividing hardy geraniums is that the results immediately look generous. One faded clump can become several fresh drifts, useful for weaving through roses, shrubs, or other plants that need their ankles elegantly covered.

They are particularly valuable in relaxed cottage garden planting schemes, where a little soft sprawl is entirely welcome.

Astilbe: It Benefits from a Fresh Start in Moist Soil

Astilbe is a fine candidate for division in late August or early fall in cool, moist conditions. It dislikes drought, so this is one plant I would not tackle after weeks without rain unless you are prepared to water diligently.

A mature clump may develop a woody center and weaker flowering. Lift it carefully, split it into robust sections with buds and roots, and replant promptly in humus-rich soil. Astilbe is happiest in partial shade, where its ferny foliage and feathery flowers lend a border a wonderfully composed air.

Mulch around new divisions with leaf mold or compost, keeping the crowns clear. A garden trug from Amazon makes carrying divisions, compost, and the inevitable collection of abandoned plant labels rather easier. In damp shade, astilbe partners beautifully with hostas and ferns; proof that shade friendly plants can be every bit as glamorous as sun lovers.

The real secret to dividing plants in August is brisk kindness. Do not leave roots baking in the sun while you admire your progress, and do not expect small divisions to fend for themselves without water. Replant at their previous depth, firm the soil gently, water thoroughly, and mulch if conditions are dry.

Keep new plants watered through the first few weeks, especially if rain fails to appear. Remove flowers if a divided perennial immediately tries to bloom; it is far better for it to spend its energy making roots. By fall, those once-crowded clumps will be settled, stronger, and multiplied into useful new stock.

It is one of gardening’s finest small miracles: a plant that looked past its best becomes three or four plants full of promise. No expensive makeover, no dramatic intervention, just a fork, a little compost, and the agreeable knowledge that next year’s border will be better because you gave it room to breathe.

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August is when dahlias reach their peak in many U.S. gardens. By now, they're producing an abundance of colorful blooms, from dinnerplate varieties to compact pompons, and creating one of the most spectacular displays of the growing season. But while they may be at their most beautiful, they also need a little extra attention to keep plants healthy and flowering.

Whether you're growing different dahlia types in borders, cutting gardens, raised beds, or containers, good dahlia care is essential during this demanding month. Hot temperatures, periods of drought, heavy summer storms, and high humidity can all affect flowering, but a few simple maintenance jobs will keep plants producing fresh blooms for weeks to come.

1. Deadhead Regularly to Keep Flowers Coming

The single most important job this month is learning how to deadhead dahlias correctly. Dahlias are prolific bloomers, but once flowers fade, the plant naturally begins diverting energy toward producing seeds rather than developing new buds. Removing spent blooms every few days encourages the plant to keep flowering until the first fall frost.

Look carefully before making the cut. Faded flowers develop a pointed, cone-shaped center where seeds begin to form, while unopened buds remain round and tightly closed. Use a clean, sharp pair of pruners, such as the Fiskars SoftGrip Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon or the GARDENA ExpertCut Pruner from Amazon, and snip the stem back to the first healthy pair of leaves or a strong side shoot to encourage fresh growth.

If you're growing dahlias as cut flowers, regular harvesting provides the same benefit, stimulating the plant to produce even more blooms. Keeping a pair of reliable pruners nearby makes it easier to remove fading flowers as soon as they appear and maintain a continuous display throughout late summer.

2. Water Deeply Rather Than Little and Often

August heat can leave dahlias thirsty, especially during prolonged hot spells or if they're growing in containers or sandy, free-draining soil. Instead of watering lightly every day, give plants a deep soak once or twice a week, ensuring moisture reaches the root zone. Deep watering encourages stronger root systems and helps plants cope better with heat and dry weather.

For larger dahlia beds, a drip irrigation system can make consistent watering easier. The Rain Bird Landscape and Garden Drip Watering Kit from The Home Depot delivers water directly to the base of plants, helping keep foliage dry while providing steady moisture to roots. For smaller gardens and container-grown dahlias, a gentle hose nozzle such as the Expert Gardener Heavy-Duty Metal 8-Pattern Watering Nozzle from Walmart can help control water flow and avoid washing away soil around the plant.

Water early in the morning and direct the water at the soil rather than the foliage to reduce the risk of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. Container-grown dahlias may need watering every day during periods of extreme heat, particularly in southern states.

3. Feed to Support Continued Flowering

By August, dahlias have used much of the nutrients available in the soil, so adding a balanced dahlia fertilizer can help support continued blooms through late summer and into fall. Feeding every one to two weeks gives plants the nutrients they need to keep producing flowers, especially during the peak growing season.

Choose a fertilizer that's relatively low in nitrogen but higher in phosphorus and potassium. Too much nitrogen encourages lush leafy growth at the expense of flowers. A liquid tomato fertilizer works particularly well because it's formulated to promote flowering rather than excessive foliage. The Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Tomato Plant Food and Espoma Organic Tomato-Tone Plant Food are both widely available options at retailers such as Amazon and The Home Depot and can be used to encourage flower production in dahlias.

4. Keep Tying In Tall Stems

Even well-supported dahlias can become top-heavy as flowers increase in size and number. Inspect stakes and supports regularly, especially after summer thunderstorms or strong winds. Supporting plants before stems bend or snap is much easier than trying to repair storm damage later.

For tall dahlia varieties, sturdy plant supports and gentle ties can help keep stems upright without restricting growth. The VELCRO Brand Garden Ties are useful options for securing stems because they are flexible, reusable, and designed to avoid cutting into growing plants.

For extra support, consider using the Vigoro 48-inch Green Steel Plant Stakes from The Home Depot to help anchor taller varieties and large dinnerplate dahlias.

5. Watch for Pests and Disease

Warm August weather creates ideal conditions for several common dahlia pests and diseases. Earwigs are often blamed for damaged blooms, although they're usually feeding on flowers that are already fading. Slugs and snails may still be active after rainy periods, while aphids often gather around tender new shoots and developing buds.

Check plants every few days, paying close attention to the undersides of leaves and around flower buds. Catching problems early is usually enough to prevent a major infestation.

For gardeners looking for an easy way to monitor and manage common summer pests, a product such as Bonide Captain Jack's Dead Bug Brew, available through retailers like Amazon and The Home Depot, can help control a range of insect pests when used according to the label directions.

Also keep an eye out for powdery mildew, particularly during periods of high humidity or when plants become overcrowded. Improving air circulation, spacing plants properly, and watering consistently at soil level can help reduce the risk and keep foliage healthier through late summer.

6. Cut Flowers Often

One of the easiest ways to encourage more blooms is simply to cut them. Knowing when and how to prune dahlias can help keep plants productive while providing plenty of flowers for indoor arrangements. Harvest flowers early in the morning while stems are fully hydrated, and choose blooms that are almost fully open, since dahlias don't continue opening much after they're cut.

Use clean, sharp pruners, such as the Fiskars PowerGear2 Bypass Pruner, to make clean cuts without crushing stems, and place flowers into fresh water immediately. The more flowers you harvest, the more the plant is encouraged to replace them with new buds, giving you an even longer display outdoors while filling your home with fresh bouquets.

7. Start Planning for Tuber Storage

Although dahlias are still flowering, August is a good time to think ahead to the end of the season and how you'll protect your dahlia tubers through winter. Label plants now while blooms are easy to identify, as many cultivars look similar once frost blackens the foliage.

Gardeners in colder regions, generally USDA Hardiness Zones 3 through 7, should gather storage supplies before the first frost. A product such as Back to the Roots Organic Vermiculite can help keep stored tubers protected by providing a lightweight, moisture-controlling medium.

In warmer climates where the ground doesn't freeze, dahlia tubers can often remain in the soil with a layer of winter mulch, provided drainage is good.

Can You Still Plant Dahlias in August?

In most parts of the U.S., August is too late to plant dormant dahlia tubers if you're hoping for a full season of blooms before the first fall frost. However, gardeners in the warmest regions, including parts of USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and 10, may still have time to plant actively growing container-grown dahlias.

While late-planted dahlias won't flower for as long as spring-planted specimens, they can still provide weeks of color before cooler weather arrives. Keep new plants well watered as they establish, especially during hot August weather.

The secret to spectacular dahlias in August is consistency. Regular deadheading, deep watering during hot weather, feeding every few weeks, and checking supports after summer storms will keep plants healthy and blooming. Avoid leaving spent flowers on the plant, overfeeding with nitrogen, or allowing containers to dry out, and your dahlias will reward you with a vibrant display right through to the first fall frost.

With the holidays still months away, your Christmas cactus may not be top of mind. But August is one of the most important months in its growing cycle. While your plant is focused on producing new stems rather than flower buds, the care you provide now will have a direct impact on how well it blooms later in the year.

Whether your Christmas cactus spends the summer indoors or you've moved it outside to enjoy the warmer weather, now is the perfect time to fine-tune your Christmas cactus care routine. A few small adjustments in August can help your plant stay healthy through late summer and set it up for a spectacular display of blooms when the holiday season arrives.

1. Water Consistently, But Let the Soil Dry Slightly

Unlike desert cacti, Christmas cacti (Schlumbergera) are native to the humid rainforests of southeastern Brazil, where they naturally grow on trees rather than in dry, sandy soil. During August, your plant is still actively growing, so it appreciates consistent moisture.

Knowing how to water a Christmas cactus is key at this stage. Water thoroughly when the top inch of potting mix feels dry, allowing excess water to drain away completely. Avoid letting the pot sit in standing water, as overly wet soil can lead to root rot.

If you’re unsure when to water, a moisture meter can help take the guesswork out of your routine. The VIVOSUN Plant Moisture Meter Light and pH Tester from The Home Depot lets you check soil moisture levels before watering, helping prevent overwatering.

If your Christmas cactus needs repotting after flowering, a well-draining mix can help support healthy roots. The Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix from Amazon is designed to improve drainage and is a useful option for cacti and succulents.

For many U.S. gardeners, August also brings high temperatures and air-conditioned homes, which can affect how quickly potting mix dries. Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, check the soil regularly and adjust as needed.

2. Fertilize Before Bud Formation Begins

Late summer is typically the last chance to feed your Christmas cactus before it begins transitioning toward its flowering cycle. Apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two to four weeks while the plant is actively growing. Once flower buds begin to form in early fall, stop fertilizing so the plant can direct its energy toward blooming rather than producing new foliage.

A gentle, balanced fertilizer can help support healthy stems and encourage stronger growth before the blooming season begins. The Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from The Home Depot is an easy-to-use liquid option that can be diluted and added during your regular watering routine. For a more organic approach, the Espoma Organic Indoor Plant Food from Amazon provides a slow, steady source of nutrients to support houseplants through the growing season.

Avoid overfeeding your Christmas cactus, as too much fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. The goal in August is to give your plant the nutrients it needs now, while allowing it to naturally shift its focus toward producing holiday blooms later in the year.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Christmas cacti thrive in bright, indirect light, so where to place a Christmas cactus matters. An east-facing window is often ideal, while south- or west-facing windows may need a sheer curtain to protect leaves from harsh afternoon sun.

If you've moved your Christmas cactus outdoors for summer, keep it in a shaded or partially shaded spot and bring it indoors before temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).

As fall approaches, light becomes key for blooming. The Christmas cactus in the dark method involves giving your plant around 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night to encourage flower buds to form. If your home lacks suitable light, the GE Full Spectrum LED Grow Light from Amazon can help supplement daytime light while keeping its nighttime routine consistent.

4. Resist the Urge to Repot

If your Christmas cactus looks healthy, August isn't the time to give it a larger container. These plants tend to bloom best when they are slightly root-bound, and disturbing the roots too close to flowering season can interrupt bud production.

However, if you’re wondering when to repot a Christmas cactus, it’s usually best to wait until after the plant has finished blooming. Only repot sooner if roots are growing through the drainage holes or the potting mix has broken down and is no longer draining well.

5. Prepare for the Blooming Season

Although flower buds usually begin forming in early fall, August is the perfect time to prepare. Christmas cacti need approximately 12 to 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night, along with cooler nighttime temperatures, to trigger blooming.

As summer comes to an end, decide where your plant will spend the fall and avoid moving it once buds begin to develop, as sudden changes in light, temperature, or humidity can cause buds to drop.

If your home is naturally bright in the evenings, the simple Aokrean Grow Lights for Indoor Plants from Amazon can help provide consistent daytime light while allowing you to control the plant’s essential dark period.

Your Christmas cactus may not be putting on its holiday display just yet, but August is when it is quietly preparing for the months ahead. By watering carefully, feeding while it is actively growing, providing plenty of bright, indirect light, and avoiding unnecessary repotting, you’ll give your plant the best chance of rewarding you with vibrant blooms when the holiday season arrives.

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August is an excellent month to plant heat-tolerant perennials, ornamental grasses, and late-blooming flowers, provided you water them deeply while they establish. Choose plants with immediate presence such as coneflower, black-eyed Susan, sedum, and salvia, and your backyard can look more abundant now while gaining structure and color for fall.

The trick is to plant early in the day, prepare generous planting holes, and keep the root balls reliably moist for their first few weeks. August gardening is less a sprint than a campaign conducted with a hose.

A few strategic additions can transform the whole scene, particularly when considered alongside these backyard ideas for creating an outdoor space that looks considered rather than merely busy.

1. Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Coneflower is the superhero of the late summer garden. It is one of the best things to plant in August in USDA Zones 3–9, offering cheerful daisy flowers in purple, pink, coral, orange, yellow, and white, just when some borders have begun to look a little emotionally exhausted.

Choose nursery-grown plants rather than seed at this point in the season. A clump of ‘Magnus’ or ‘White Swan’ coneflowers will make an immediate difference, then settle in to become more generous each year. Their raised central cones also age beautifully, becoming sculptural seedheads for birds if you can resist tidying everything away.

Plant in full sun and free-draining soil, water deeply every few days in dry weather, and mulch around, not against, the crowns. I have learned, mainly by watching young plants collapse in a hot spell, that regular soaking is far better than a daily sprinkle.

For a long season of flowers, combine coneflowers with the plants that thrive on neglect in a heatwave. You can find healthy 'Magnus Purple' coneflower plants at Nature Hills.

2. Sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile)

If your garden has a sunny spot where the soil is poor or dry, plant upright sedum (Hylotelephium spectabile). Often still sold as Sedum spectabile, it is one of those pleasingly unfussy perennials that looks good from late summer into winter.

Varieties such as ‘Autumn Joy’ begin with greenish flower buds, turn pink, then deepen to rusty red as fall approaches. The flowers hold their heads high above sturdy, succulent foliage and are magnets for late-flying pollinators. In Zones 3–9, this is a plant that earns its keep without requiring a supervisory committee.

You can get an Autumn Joy Sedum at Nature Hills

August is a fine time to introduce container-grown sedum, although plants will establish best if you can give them a thorough drink at planting and again whenever the top few inches of soil dry out. Avoid rich, damp ground.

3. Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)

There are moments when subtlety is overrated, and black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) is one of them. Its golden petals and dark central cone bring exactly the kind of sunny confidence that a border needs in August, particularly after a punishing run of hot weather.

‘Goldsturm’ is the classic choice: dependable, long-flowering, and generally hardy in Zones 3–9. You can get a Goldsturm Black-Eyed Susan at Nature Hills.

Plant it in full sun, allowing enough room for eventual spread, and pair it with blue or purple companions such as Russian sage (Salvia yangii) or catmint (Nepeta). The combination has all the charm of a late-summer meadow, without requiring one to own a scythe or a shepherd’s crook.

I particularly like placing black-eyed Susans behind lower mounds of foliage, where their flowers can bob above the planting rather than line up like soldiers on parade. Keep them watered while newly planted, then deadhead regularly if you want to prolong the performance.

A sharp pair of Okatsune secateurs from Amazon makes light work of spent stems; this guide on deadheading flowers will help you make the right cuts.

4. Salvia (Salvia nemorosa)

Perennial salvia (Salvia nemorosa) is one of the great bargains of the flower border: elegant spires, aromatic leaves, and a willingness to bloom again after a trim. It is a particularly good answer to what to plant in August for gardeners in Zones 4–9, where cooler nights may be on the horizon but summer has not quite packed its bags.

Look for compact varieties such as ‘Caradonna’ or ‘May Night’, or try blue sage (Salvia farinacea) in warmer areas. Their violet-blue flowers make a handsome counterpoint to yellows and oranges, and bees regard them as something between an all-inclusive resort and a pilgrimage site.

Plant salvia in sunny, well-drained soil, and water it carefully until fresh growth appears. Once its first flush of flowers has faded, cut the spent stems back to a set of leaves, and it may produce another round before frost.

There is something deeply satisfying about persuading a plant to make a second effort. For more detail on repeat flowering, learn whether you should deadhead salvia.

'White Profusion' Salvia available at Plant Addicts adds a splash of calm to any border.

5. Ornamental Grasses

Flowers may get the applause, but ornamental grasses hold the whole production together. August is ideal for planting well-grown grasses in the temperate zones, especially where you want immediate height, texture, and some elegant movement in a breeze.

Feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’), available from Plant Addicts, is a reliable vertical accent in Zones 4–9. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) brings softer, airy plumes and handsome fall color in Zones 4–9, while muhly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) produces its famous pink haze in warmer Zones 6–10.

Plant grasses where low evening light can pass through them. They will turn a perfectly ordinary Tuesday in September into something almost cinematic. Water consistently for the first month, especially if temperatures remain high, then leave the dry seedheads standing through winter for structure and wildlife.

6. Lantana (Lantana camara)

Lantana (Lantana camara) is for gardeners whose pots have become a little weary by August, which is to say, almost all of us. Its clustered flowers arrive in sherbet shades of yellow, orange, pink, red, and purple, and it tolerates summer heat with an almost suspicious degree of good humor.

In Zones 9–11, lantana can be a perennial shrub. Elsewhere, treat it as a brilliant annual for containers and sunny borders. It thrives in heat, needs excellent drainage, and attracts butterflies in abundance. Choose a compact cultivar for pots, and use a container with generous drainage holes.

Refresh tired potting soil with compost, plant at the same depth as the nursery pot, and water in well. I would not overfeed lantana: too much fertilizer can result in a great deal of leaf and rather less floral theatrics.

For containers that remain attractive through fall, pair lantana with trailing sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas) and heed this advice on how to water container plants correctly.

Browse colorful container-ready lantana plants at Amazon.

7. Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis)

For a quieter, more poetic August planting, Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis) is hard to beat. Its pink or white flowers hover on wiry stems above handsome foliage, bringing grace to a partly shaded bed just as summer begins to loosen its grip.

Hardy in Zones 4–8, Japanese anemones prefer moist but well-drained soil and are best suited to a sheltered position out of blasting afternoon sun. They may take a season to settle, but their late-summer and early-fall flowering is worth the wait.

You can get a September Charm Japanese Anemone at Nature Hills for silvery-pink blooms in late summer and fall.

Plant them in soil enriched with compost, water regularly during their first season, and give them a little room. They have the pleasantly subversive habit of spreading once happy, so this is not a plant for a precious, tightly choreographed border.

To prepare new beds properly, this guide to fall gardening jobs is a useful next step. Stock up on compost from Ace Hardware before planting.

8. Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)

New England aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) from Plant Addicts is the grand finale plant. Its purple, pink, or blue flowers arrive when much of the garden is beginning to contemplate retirement, and they offer late nectar to butterflies and bees. For smaller spaces, look for compact cultivars such as ‘Purple Dome’.

Most asters are hardy in Zones 3–8 and thrive in sun with reasonably moist soil. Planting in August gives container-grown specimens time to begin rooting before fall, but do not let them dry out. A generous mulch will keep the soil cooler, conserve moisture, and make the whole area look as though someone competent has been in charge.

There is still scope to sow flower seeds in August. If you want a late dose of color come fall, or are thinking more long-term about blooms next year, our guide to flowers to sow in August contains a bit of both. You can discover some great flowers to sow, along with detailed sowing information to help you get brilliant blooms to enjoy.

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Hydrangeas are a favorite among American gardeners, prized for their large, showy flower heads and their ability to transform throughout the growing season. From classic blue and pink mophead blooms to creamy white panicle varieties, these garden staples bring lasting color to landscapes across the country. But many homeowners are surprised when their once-bright hydrangea flowers begin turning green.

Understanding why hydrangea flowers change color is an important part of good hydrangea care. Factors such as the age of the blooms, seasonal changes, sunlight, soil conditions, and the specific hydrangea variety can all play a role.

By providing the right growing conditions, you can keep your hydrangeas healthy while enjoying the changing color of hydrangeas and the range of shades they display from summer into fall.

Green Hydrangea Blooms Are Often a Natural Part of the Plant’s Life Cycle

One of the most common reasons hydrangea flowers turn green is simply that the blooms are maturing. As flower heads age, the pigments responsible for their original colors can begin to fade, allowing green tones to become more noticeable.

This color shift is especially common in bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), including many popular mophead and lacecap varieties grown throughout the United States. A bloom that starts the summer in shades of blue, pink, or purple may gradually develop soft green tones as the season progresses.

Rather than being a sign that something is wrong, green flowers often indicate that the plant is moving into a new stage of blooming. Many gardeners appreciate this transition because the muted green shades add a sophisticated look to late-season gardens and floral arrangements.

Changing Weather and Light Conditions Can Influence Hydrangea Color

Hydrangeas respond to changes in their environment, and shifts in weather, temperature, and daylight can affect how their blooms appear. As summer moves toward fall, cooler nights and changing light levels can encourage flowers to take on green hues.

In many parts of the U.S., hydrangeas experience noticeable color changes toward the end of the growing season. A plant that produces bright blooms in early summer may naturally develop softer, antique-looking shades later on.

These seasonal changes are one reason hydrangeas remain such popular landscape plants. Their flowers can provide interest for months, offering a constantly changing display rather than a single burst of color.

While you cannot control every change in flower color, providing consistent moisture can help support healthy blooms during hot or dry weather. It is important to know when and how to water hydrangeas, too. Hydrangeas generally prefer evenly moist soil, although they should not sit in waterlogged conditions.

If you are unsure whether the soil around your hydrangea is actually dry, the Luster Leaf 1810 Rapitest Soil Moisture Tester from The Home Depot can help take some of the guesswork out of watering. The simple probe measures moisture in the soil and can help you avoid both underwatering and overwatering. It is particularly useful during a heat wave, when the soil surface may look dry even though there is still moisture around the roots.

For larger hydrangea borders, the Vigoro Heavy Duty Garden Drip Irrigation Soaker Hose is another useful option. A soaker hose delivers water slowly along its length, helping moisture reach the root zone rather than wetting the flowers and foliage. This can make it easier to maintain consistent soil moisture during long periods of hot, dry weather.

Some Hydrangea Varieties Naturally Produce Green Blooms

While many hydrangea flowers turn green as they mature, some varieties are naturally known for their green or green-tinged blooms. Certain cultivars begin with pale green flowers before changing color, while others retain their green tones for much of the growing season.

‘Limelight’ hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) is one of the best-known examples. Its large, cone-shaped blooms emerge a fresh lime green, fade to creamy white, and gradually develop soft pink tones as the season progresses. The Proven Winners® Limelight Hydrangea Tree from Fast-Growing Trees is the variety I grow in my own yard, and I love how its changing flowers provide interest from summer well into fall.

I’m also a fan of the Endless Summer® The Original Reblooming Hydrangea from Fast-Growing Trees, one of the most popular bigleaf hydrangea varieties. It begins blooming in early summer and can continue producing flowers through fall, offering a much longer display than many traditional hydrangeas. Its flowers can appear blue or pink depending on soil conditions, although, like many hydrangeas, the blooms may also develop green tones as they mature.

Choosing the right variety is an important part of successful hydrangea care. Before planting, consider your USDA hardiness zone, the amount of sun your garden receives, the plant’s mature size, and how its flower color may change throughout the growing season.

Do Green Hydrangea Flowers Mean Your Plant Has a Problem?

A common gardening misconception is that green hydrangea blooms indicate a nutrient deficiency, poor soil, or a need for extra hydrangea fertilizer. In most cases, this is not true. A healthy hydrangea can produce green flowers even when it is receiving everything it needs.

Instead of trying to change the color of aging blooms, focus on maintaining the overall health of your plant. Good hydrangea care includes:

• Keeping the soil consistently moist but well-drained.
• Adding compost or organic matter to improve soil quality.
• Providing the correct amount of sunlight for your hydrangea variety.
• Applying fertilizer only when needed and following product directions.
• Pruning at the appropriate time to encourage healthy growth.

Healthy plants are better able to produce strong, long-lasting blooms throughout the growing season.

Can You Keep Hydrangeas From Turning Green?

You may not be able to prevent a natural color change, but proper care can help your hydrangeas produce healthy, long-lasting blooms. Providing consistent moisture, suitable light, and well-prepared soil will give your plants the best chance to thrive. For gardeners hoping to influence the color of their flowers, it is important to understand that changing blue hydrangeas to pink, or pink hydrangeas to blue, is different from preventing mature blooms from turning green.

Some bigleaf hydrangeas can change from pink to blue depending on soil acidity and the availability of aluminum. More acidic soil can encourage blue hydrangea flowers in varieties that are capable of changing color, while more alkaline soil can encourage pink blooms.

The Espoma Organic Soil Acidifier from Walmart is designed for acid-loving plants, including hydrangeas, and can be used to lower soil pH. However, it is not a treatment for green flowers. If your hydrangea blooms have turned green because they are naturally maturing, adding a soil acidifier will not return them to their original color.

Before applying any product to alter soil pH, test your soil and check that your particular hydrangea variety is capable of changing from pink to blue. White hydrangeas generally do not change color in response to soil pH, and changing soil conditions unnecessarily can create problems for other plants growing nearby.

Shop Hydrangea Care

A hydrangea with green blooms is not a sign that your plant is struggling. In fact, these soft green flowers can become one of the most attractive stages of the growing season.

Green hydrangea blooms complement fall foliage, woodland-style landscapes, and natural garden designs. They also make excellent cut flowers, whether displayed fresh in arrangements or dried for long-lasting decor.

The next time your hydrangeas turn green, don’t rush to fix them. Instead, enjoy the transformation. Those changing shades are part of what makes hydrangeas such beloved garden plants – offering beauty, texture, and seasonal interest long after their first blooms appear.

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Delphiniums are one of the standout flowers of midsummer, bringing vertical interest and classic cottage garden charm to borders. But by July, many gardeners begin to notice fading blooms, drooping stems, or foliage struggling under the pressure of soaring temperatures.

Whether you're growing tall Pacific Giant cultivars, compact varieties for smaller yards, or other popular delphinium types, July is a crucial month for maintaining their health and appearance. Knowing how to care for delphiniums during periods of intense heat can make the difference between plants that fade quickly and those that continue performing well into late summer.

This month is all about helping plants recover from their first spectacular display while protecting them from summer stress. With much of the US experiencing hotter-than-average temperatures and prolonged dry spells, a few timely maintenance jobs can encourage a second flush of flowers and keep plants healthy for the rest of the season.

Here are the five jobs gardening experts recommend tackling now.

1. Deadhead Spent Flower Spikes to Encourage a Second Flush

The biggest July job is removing faded flower spikes as soon as they've finished blooming. If you're looking for plants to deadhead in July, delphiniums should be high on your list, as timely pruning can encourage a welcome second display later in the season.

'Deadheading is the most important thing you can do for delphiniums in July,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'Many varieties will reward you with a second, lighter flush of flowers later in the summer if you cut back the spent spikes before the plant starts putting energy into producing seed.'

To cut back delphiniums correctly, wait until most of the florets on a flower spike have faded, then cut the stem back to a healthy side shoot or down to the base if no new growth is visible. A sharp pair of Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon and The Home Depot, will make clean cuts that are less likely to damage stems. If your delphiniums have reached their full height, it's also worth checking their supports while you're pruning. Grow-Through Plant Supports, sold at Amazon, help keep tall flower spikes upright through summer downpours and strong winds.

'Don't be tempted to leave the seedheads for too long if repeat blooms are your goal,' Rachel adds. 'The sooner you deadhead, the better the chances of encouraging fresh flowering.'

2. Water Deeply During Heatwaves

While delphiniums appreciate consistently moist soil, they're not particularly tolerant of prolonged drought. During periods of extreme heat, they can quickly become stressed, causing blooms to fade early and foliage to wilt, so knowing how to water in hot weather is key to keeping plants healthy through July.

'If you're experiencing a heatwave, deep watering is far more effective than little and often,' says Rachel Bull. 'Aim to soak the soil once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and your soil type, so moisture reaches the deeper roots.'

Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and help plants cope with rising daytime temperatures. A Gilmour Heavy Duty Adjustable Metal Hose Nozzle, available from Amazon and Walmart, makes it easy to switch between a gentle shower for soaking borders and a stronger stream for other watering jobs around the yard.

Adding a two- to three-inch layer of compost or other organic mulch around the base will also help conserve soil moisture, regulate root temperatures, and reduce the need for frequent watering throughout the hottest weeks of summer.

3. Check Supports Before Summer Storms

July often brings intense thunderstorms across much of the US, and tall delphinium flower spikes are particularly vulnerable to strong winds and heavy rain. Even if you staked plants earlier in the season, now is the time to make sure supports are still doing their job.

Soft twine, bamboo canes, or grow-through plant supports all work well, provided stems have enough room to move naturally without rubbing. A pack of Ecostakes Bamboo Garden Stakes, available from The Home Depot, is an inexpensive and versatile option for supporting tall delphiniums, while soft garden ties can be used to gently secure stems without damaging them.

4. Feed After Flowering to Support Fresh Growth

Once you've deadheaded the first flush, giving plants a light feed can help fuel new shoots and encourage repeat flowering. A balanced fertilizer or one that's slightly higher in potassium is ideal after flowering, as it helps plants recover without encouraging lots of soft, leafy growth that can struggle during hot weather.

Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food, available from Amazon, is a popular option for supporting flowering plants and can help provide the nutrients delphiniums need as they recover from their first bloom cycle.

Always water well after feeding, particularly if temperatures are high, to help nutrients reach the root zone without scorching stressed roots.

5. Keep an Eye Out for Powdery Mildew

Hot days followed by humid nights create ideal conditions for powdery mildew, one of the most common problems affecting delphiniums in midsummer. Good airflow is one of your best defenses, so remove any badly affected leaves, avoid overhead watering where possible, and make sure neighboring plants aren't becoming overcrowded.

It's also worth checking for slugs and snails around fresh new shoots after deadheading. Although they're more active in spring, they can still damage tender regrowth later in the season. For an easy, targeted solution, Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available from Amazon, can help tackle soft-bodied summer garden pests while being gentle enough for use around ornamental plants.

The key to keeping delphiniums thriving through summer is avoiding a few simple mistakes. Don't allow plants to dry out completely during hot spells, as drought stress can shorten flowering and reduce the chance of a second flush.

Stay on top of deadheading, too – removing spent spikes promptly encourages fresh growth rather than seed production. And resist cutting back healthy foliage too early, as the remaining leaves continue to feed the plant and store energy for next year's blooms.