There’s something about certain plants that can transport you instantly. One deep inhale of a blooming lilac, or spotting a glossy rubber plant tucked into the corner of a living room, and suddenly you’re back in your childhood home – or wandering through your grandparents’ garden on a lazy summer afternoon.

Before minimalist trends and perfectly curated feeds, gardens and houseplants were personal, abundant, and a little sentimental. The 90s were full of reliable blooms, leafy statement plants, and hardy favorites that quietly defined whole eras of home life.

Today, many of those nostalgic indoor and outdoor plants are making a comeback. Not as fleeting garden trends, but as sources of comfort. They feel familiar in the best way: unfussy, joyful, and steeped in memory. Whether you plant them in the yard or bring them indoors, they have a way of making a space feel instantly like home again.

Indoor Plants Making a Comeback

Houseplants might not have been the big craze of the 90s like some garden trends, but they quietly found their way into city apartments and suburban homes, becoming a familiar part of everyday life. Many of those classic favorites are still thriving today – and a few have even made a stylish comeback.

Indoor plants have a way of making a home feel alive, and these five have earned their place at the very heart of modern interiors. They bring beauty, texture, and a hint of nostalgia to every corner – and the best part is they’re mostly low-maintenance houseplants, perfect for adding effortless greenery without any fuss.

1. Spider Plant

If there was one plant that truly defined a 90s home, it was the spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum). It was the first houseplant I ever really got to know – the one I remember noticing, touching, and eventually propagating a spider plant myself. I can still picture it hanging in the sunny window of my grandmother’s house.

Part of what made the spider plant stick in my memory was how unkillable it seemed. Miss a watering, move it across the room, deal with a week of shifting light – none of it phased the plant. It just quietly kept growing, easygoing and resilient, never demanding attention. I still remember snipping off one of those tiny 'babies' and watching it root in water. That small, everyday miracle is probably the moment I fell in love with growing indoor plants.

Today, it fits effortlessly into modern spaces. Its soft, cascading leaves balance clean lines, while the subtle striping adds gentle texture. Tucked into a simple ceramic pot or spilling over a shelf, it’s no longer just a retro throwback – it’s a timeless classic. Every time I bring one home, the room instantly feels softer, warmer, and somehow a little like coming full circle.

Grow your own indoor jungle with this top-rated Spider Plant Variety Pack from Amazon – perfect for adding fresh, low-maintenance greenery to any space. I’ll be styling mine in this chic Beaded Ceramic Planter from Target for a clean, modern look that lets the cascading leaves shine

2. Peace Lily

I always thought the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) was a little bit magical – elegant without being fussy, quietly commanding without demanding attention. In my childhood home, we had a cat, so it was always perched high on a corner table or shelf, safely out of reach. Even then, I was drawn to its glossy green leaves and crisp white blooms, which seemed to lift the whole room, brightening it in a way that felt effortless. It was one of those plants that looked like it belonged in a magazine spread, even amid the everyday chaos of a lived-in home.

What made it truly special was how forgiving it was. Miss a watering? Not enough light? No problem – it bounced back, leaves arching proudly as if nothing had happened. It quietly taught me that beauty doesn’t have to come with high-maintenance demands, and that a houseplant could feel both refined and easy to care for at the same time.

Now, I love bringing Peace Lilies into my own home. They thrive in indirect light, adapt to different corners, and look stunning whether tucked onto a shelf, displayed in a statement planter on the floor, or grouped with other greenery. There’s something comforting about their sculptural elegance, a quality that makes a space feel calmer, more considered, and effortlessly polished. Every time I see one, it reminds me of that subtle sophistication I admired as a child – and it still feels just as special today.

If you’re just starting your houseplant journey, I highly recommend the Costa Farms Live Indoor Plant Bundle in Decorative Pots from Amazon. It includes a peace lily and a snake plant – both low-maintenance favorites – making it easy to add structure, texture, and vibrant greenery to your home with minimal effort.

3. Boston Fern

Boston Ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata) have a way of instantly taking you back. They were a staple in homes through the 70s, 80s, and 90s, often spilling gracefully from hanging baskets or tucked into sunrooms and kitchens. Their cascading fronds softened corners, added a sense of life to any room, and carried the unmistakable nostalgia of grandparents’ homes, sunlit mornings, and the first plants many of us ever grew or propagated. With their lush foliage and forgiving nature, they always felt approachable, comforting, and quietly timeless.

These days, Boston Ferns are making a real comeback as interiors embrace greenery, texture, and warmth. They purify the air, soften minimalist spaces, add gentle movement, and bring a sense of calm – all while carrying that little touch of nostalgia we all recognize. Practical yet visually striking, emotionally familiar yet effortlessly elegant, Boston Ferns are reclaiming their spot in modern homes, proving that some classics never really go out of style.

4. Rubber Plant

Rubber Plants (Ficus elastica) are instantly recognizable for their glossy, dark green leaves and strong, sculptural presence – a true hallmark of 90s interiors.

Back then, they were often tucked into corners or living rooms, catching the light and quietly elevating a space without ever feeling fussy. There’s something about them that feels reassuring: upright, steady, and resilient, which mirrors their easy-care nature. For many of us, they also carry memories of childhood homes and sunlit windows, making them a subtle yet powerful trigger for nostalgia.

Today, Rubber Plants are back in style, and it’s easy to see why. Their architectural shape and bold foliage fit perfectly with the modern love of greenery that doubles as design. They bring height, texture, and a sense of life to corners, shelves, or statement planters, complementing everything from minimalist to layered, eclectic interiors.

Stylish yet sentimental, Rubber Plants have earned their spot as a timeless classic – just as relevant now as they were in the 90s.

5. Jade Plant

The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) was a quiet staple of 90s homes – the kind of plant you’d spot on a sunny windowsill or living room shelf, soaking up light without a fuss. Its thick, glossy leaves and sculptural shape gave it presence, and for many, it was the first plant that felt like a long-term responsibility rather than a seasonal fling.

Linked to prosperity and good fortune, Jade has made a stylish comeback. Its bold, architectural form works anywhere – a clean-lined shelf, a plant corner, or a single statement pot – and it’s incredibly low-maintenance, thriving on bright, indirect light, occasional watering, and a trim now and then.

What makes it timeless isn’t nostalgia alone. Those glossy, rounded leaves and sturdy stems give it quiet confidence, balancing sculptural beauty with ease. It’s familiar enough to spark memories of sunny windowsills, yet sleek enough to sit effortlessly in today’s pared-back, design-led interiors.

The Dwarf Jade Plant from Fast Growing Trees is an excellent choice if you’re looking for a low-light, drought-tolerant plant – and it’s currently on sale. I styled mine in the Checker Stoneware Planter from Target for a modern, on-trend look.

Outdoor Plants Making a Comeback

Not every garden trend fades with the decade – some plants quietly earned their place in our outdoor spaces and never let go. A few of the 90s’ most beloved favorites are still thriving, and some have even made a stylish return, bringing a fresh, effortless charm to modern gardens.

From flowers that fill borders with vibrant color to foliage that adds texture and movement, these five garden plants feel as timeless and comforting today as they did back then – beautiful in a way that never feels forced.

6. Lilacs

Lilacs were everywhere in 90s gardens, and for good reason. Those generous clusters of soft purple, lavender, and white blooms were impossible to miss, and the fragrance – drifting through open windows on a mild spring afternoon – felt like the official announcement that winter was finally over. It’s a scent that sticks with you. Few plants trigger memory quite as powerfully or as instantly. Traditionally, lilacs symbolize renewal and first love, and that sense of optimism still feels woven into every bloom.

It’s no surprise they’re finding their way back into modern gardens. People want more than a flash of color now – they want atmosphere, scent, and plants that mark the seasons in a meaningful way. Lilacs deliver all of that. Their upright, romantic shape anchors a border beautifully, softens a fence line, or makes an entrance feel considered and welcoming. Once established, they’re sturdy and dependable, returning each spring with impressive, almost celebratory blooms.

And beyond symbolism or nostalgia, they’re simply stunning – the kind of plant that makes you pause, breathe in deeply, and remember why you garden in the first place.

I love my lilac bush and keep it blooming beautifully year after year with this Lilac Fertilizer, available on Amazon. If you don’t already have a lilac bush, you might consider this highly rated Common Lilac Bush with stunning lavender-purple blooms – ideal for adding the timeless color and charm.

7. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are back in the spotlight, and honestly, it’s easy to see why. They were a defining feature of so many 90s gardens – those generous, cloud-like blooms spilling over paths and under windows, marking the peak of summer. For a while, they might have felt a little too familiar, but now that very abundance is exactly what’s drawing gardeners back.

Gardeners are looking for plants that feel expressive and full of life again, and landscaping with hydrangeas deliver like few others can. Their blooms are unapologetically generous, softening fences, anchoring borders, and giving structure without ever feeling rigid. They make a statement, but they do it effortlessly.

Part of their renewed popularity comes down to variety. Today’s hydrangeas bloom longer, offer richer colors, and come in more compact forms that work just as beautifully in containers as they do in larger gardens. They’re hardy, reliable, and generous – all qualities that feel increasingly valuable in modern planting schemes.

What’s truly striking is how well they bridge past and present. Hydrangeas carry that nostalgic charm, yet they don’t feel dated. In looser, more naturalistic borders or paired with ornamental grasses and muted perennials, they feel fresh, contemporary, and utterly charming. It’s that balance – familiar but modern – that’s brought them back into our gardens and firmly secured their place once more.

One of summer’s most romantic blooms, nothing elevates a garden bed or bouquet quite like a hydrangea. The Everlasting Revolution Hydrangea Plant from Burpee bursts into an explosion of long-lasting, perfectly formed blooms that are as stunning in the landscape as they are in a vase.

I’ll be styling my freshly cut hydrangea stems in the beautiful Eden Pitcher from Anthropologie – a charming vessel that turns simple blooms into a statement arrangement.

8. Hostas

Hostas are quietly making a comeback, and it’s easy to see why. They were everywhere in 90s gardens, their textured leaves filling shady borders and adding effortless greenery where little else would grow. For a while, they were almost taken for granted, but now gardeners are rediscovering exactly what made them so special: reliable, versatile, and visually striking.

Perfect for shade gardens, hostas bring depth and layered texture to corners that often get overlooked. Their variety of leaf shapes, sizes, and colors – from soft chartreuse to deep blue-green – makes them adaptable to everything from serene garden retreats to bold, graphic borders. They pair beautifully with ferns, astilbe, and other shade-loving perennials, offering consistent foliage interest from spring through fall.

They don’t shout for attention, but their quiet elegance speaks volumes. Hostas give even the shadiest corners life and structure, making every spot feel considered and polished. It’s that understated charm that’s helping them reclaim their place in modern, north-facing gardens – proving that some classics never really go out of style.

My personal favorite, the Minuteman Hosta Bare Roots from Burpee, features broad, deep green leaves edged in bright white for a bold, classic look. This striking hosta not only adds beautiful contrast to shady garden beds but also attracts hummingbirds when in bloom.

9. Sweet Peas

Sweet Peas were a true staple of 90s gardens – delicate, fragrant, and endlessly charming. As a child, I was always given seed packs as gifts, and there was something almost magical about planting them. Watching those tiny seeds climb, twist, and unfurl into cascades of pastel blooms never failed to feel like a little miracle. And the scent – that unmistakable, heady fragrance – could transform an ordinary summer afternoon into something unforgettable.

They’re back in style because gardeners are once again drawn to flowers that feel both effortless and intimate. Sweet Peas bring that classic cottage garden charm, climbing trellises, fences, or arbors, and add movement and fragrance even to the smallest corners. Today’s varieties bloom longer and come in a wider range of colors, making them perfect for the layered, sensory gardens people are craving now. Their return isn’t just about nostalgia – it’s about creating spaces that feel alive, personal, and joyful, just as they did in the 90s.

10. Hollyhocks

Hollyhocks were a hallmark of 90s gardens, lining fences, filling cottage borders, and shooting up in tall, colorful spikes that seemed to stretch straight toward the sky. There was something undeniably charming about their towering presence and ruffled blooms – even a small garden suddenly felt grand and alive. For many of us, they were a childhood favorite, the kind of plant that could turn a sunny patch of soil into a playful, almost storybook corner.

They’re back because gardeners are once again drawn to drama, height, and that sense of whimsical abundance. Modern planting favors texture, layering, and plants that make a statement without feeling fussy – and hollyhocks deliver all of it.

Their vertical growth draws the eye upward, while soft, frilly flowers add color and a touch of nostalgia to any maximalist border or flower bed. Hardy, low-maintenance, and endlessly striking, they work beautifully in cottage gardens, mixed borders, or even as a backdrop for climbing vines.

Hollyhocks aren’t just beautiful – they feel familiar, joyful, and full of personality. That mix of whimsy, reliability, and visual impact is exactly why this 90s favorite is reclaiming its place in contemporary gardens, bringing outdoor spaces that effortless, lived-in charm once again.

If you’re looking to bring a touch of vintage charm to your garden, the Country Romance Mix Hollyhock Plants from Burpee are a beautiful choice. This hard-to-find, old-fashioned perennial bursts with vibrant, cottage-style color – perfect for adding height, romance, and timeless appeal to your backyard beds and borders.

These plants aren’t just making a comeback because they’re trendy – they’re back because they bring something a trend never can. They carry memory, comfort, and that unmistakable sense of home, while effortlessly adding color, texture, and life to any space.

Whether spilling from a sunny windowsill or climbing a garden fence, these beloved favorites remind us why some plants never go out of style – they just feel right.

When you think of an indoor garden, your mind likely goes to abundant tropical plants offering plenty of ornamental value. But, this isn't the only possibility for growing plants indoors. There are actually lots of edible indoor plants that can turn your indoor jungle into a multi-sensory experience.

Alongside the best indoor plants, enhance your indoor garden with aromatic herbs, vegetables, and even fruit trees. That's right, it's possible to grow some of your favorite elements of your kitchen garden indoors.

And while they are delicious ingredients to have in your home, they also offer plenty of beauty and green interest. Here, indoor plant experts share their top edible indoor plants for both flavor and aesthetics, plus tips on growing them.

5 Delicious Edible Indoor Plants

The best edible indoor plants don't just include your indoor herb garden. There are plenty of kitchen garden crops that can be grown indoors for ornamental and edible ('edimental') value.

1. Rosemary

This is an aromatic herb that will fill your kitchen with a delicious perfume. Plus, the tall sprigs of rosemary add some height to herb displays. When growing rosemary indoors, there are a few requirements to meet.

'Rosemary requires bright light to do well indoors. Place the plant in front of a southern window or under full-spectrum lighting that is on 14 hours a day,' advises Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

'Avoid overwatering the plant, especially in the winter months, as they are susceptible to root rot,' she adds.

To harvest rosemary so it continues growing, use these herb snips from Amazon to take just the green leafy stems, not the woody parts.

Find a rosemary plant from Walmart.

2. Lemon Tree

It may surprise you to have a fruit tree indoors, but there are plenty of them that can grow well in an indoor environment. In fact, if you live in a colder clime, it can even be ideal for some fruit trees to grow indoors.

The trick to getting them to fruit indoors is choosing a fruit tree that is self-pollinating, not dependent on pollinators for fruit production. A lemon tree is the perfect fit, though hand-pollination will increase the likelihood of a greater harvest.

'Place them in front of a southern or western window or under full-spectrum grow lights that are on 16 hours a day,' Julie advises. 'Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and fertilize your lemon tree two or three times a year with a citrus fertilizer (from Amazon),' she adds.

To be successful with growing a lemon tree indoors, consider also choosing varieties more suited for indoor growing. This includes 'Improved Meyer' (plant from Amazon) and 'Ponderosa' (plant from Amazon).

'If your home is cooler than 75 degrees on a consistent basis, place the plant pot on a seedling heat mat (from Amazon) to keep the roots warm,' Julie adds.

3. Chili Peppers

If you're looking for vegetables you can grow indoors, then turn to chili peppers. When grown as edible indoor plants, they offer pops of color among green foliage.

There are actually ornamental peppers, which are primarily grown for their aesthetic value, and not taste. Or, you can choose from varieties suited to an indoor environment, like some jalapenos (seeds from Burpee) or habanero peppers (seeds from Burpee), and other chili varieties for containers.

Something to note is that it isn't the easiest to grow chili peppers indoors, as it is with other edible plants, which is why Julie advises: 'If your home is not 75 degrees or warmer, it’s necessary to place the plant pot on a seedling heating mat, which will keep the soil warm.'

Likewise, Julie notes you should 'avoid overwatering'. Water when the top inch to two inches has dried or a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) indicates nearly dry.

4. Basil

Basil makes one of the best edible indoor plants not only for its flavor, but also its bushy nature that fills spots on windowsills.

It's one of the easiest herbs to grow, so is definitely a great choice for a beginner indoor gardener. You can grow basil quite quickly with these basil seeds from Amazon.

'Initially, basil needs a lot of water, so water it every five days in spring, every two or three days in summer, and once a week in fall,' advises Plantum indoor plant expert Marina Prokaten. 'You'll need to adjust the watering regime for winter, just watering roughly every 10 days.'

To make the most of basil as an edible indoor plant, take steps to get basil to grow bigger and last longer. This includes regularly harvesting basil leaves from the top of the plant, encouraging fuller growth.

Find a basil plant at Walmart.

5. Mustard Microgreens

You should consider adding microgreens to your roster of edible indoor plants because they provide an influx of green foliage and fast, delicious harvests.

Mustard microgreens are a good choice, especially if you want to engage children with gardening. You can plant mustard microgreen seeds (from Amazon) and harvest in just seven to 10 days.

They make for a great filler in an indoor herb planter, which can make an attractive indoor plant display on a coffee table or windowsill.

FAQs

Are There Any Edible Traditional Indoor plants?

There are not many classic houseplants, like tropical evergreens, that are edible. In fact, many are likely to be toxic and can cause you to become unwell if ingested. However, there are plenty of herbs, fruits, and vegetable plants that can be grown indoors as edible indoor plants for both ornamental and edible value.

These edible indoor plants bring beauty and taste to the home. If you want to take your indoor garden to the next level, try growing these plants in a vertical indoor garden set-up.

For many of us gardeners, mid-August is when our fall thinking caps come on and we start to make plans for putting the garden to bed and adding colder season interest to the yard. But, there is one simple thing you can do to enjoy your summer planting for a little while longer: deadheading.

It's not too late to encourage an extended display by deadheading fading flowers to encourage plants to rebloom before the coldest temperatures kick in. Rather than leaving those wilting plants to wait out the rest of the summer season, make the most of the warm temperatures we're still experiencing by helping your plants to redirect their energy into reblooming.

Of course, it can be tricky to know what to deadhead when, as not all plants will reliably provide a second flush of flowers. To help you out, I've compiled a list of seven plants to deadhead in August, with advice from a gardening expert on how to do it, so you can tick this job off your summer gardening checklist.

Why deadhead plants in August?

Not all plants should be deadheaded in August. In fact, doing so is a deadheading mistake that can leave you without any plants for seedheads for winter interest and it can take away fading flowers wildlife are still using.

But, there are other plants that will benefit from being deadheaded because they still have plenty of energy they can use to put out a second round of flowers in the same season.

Here, experts shed light on seven plants to deadhead in August to help your summer display last a while longer, ahead of fall.

1. Pelargonium

Sometimes better known as bedding geraniums, pelargoniums are fantastic tender perennials that can bloom from spring through to fall. They come in a wide range of bright colors and variegations, and regularly removing their faded blooms will encourage a more abundant display.

'As soon as flower heads begin to fade or petals drop, follow the stem down to the main stem and snip off the entire flower stalk, not just the spent flower,' advises gardening expert Michael Clarke.

'Use scissors or pinch with your fingers to cleanly remove the old flower. This will encourage continuous blooming and prevent seed development,' he continues.

As Michael notes, these are quite easy blooms to pinch off with your fingers, but you can also use essential pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to make a clean cut.

2. Veronica

Veronica is a stunning plant that certainly makes an impact in a purple plant scheme with its vibrant flower spikes. It typically starts blooming in June and by deadheading in August, you can enjoy flowers into fall.

It'll be obvious that it's time to deadhead veronica because the usually bright flowers will have dulled in color and may have browning or greening tips. Remove spent flower stalks just above a healthy set of leaves to ensure the plant puts on new growth.

Not deadheading plants above leaf nodes or new buds is a pruning mistake that can hinder your plant's ability to put on a second display of blooms.

3. Nepeta

Another lavender alternative, nepeta (or catmint) is often loved for its profuse flowering. But, it can start to look a little worse for wear by the time August comes around. The good news is it makes the list of plants to deadhead in August, tidying it up and encouraging new growth.

'After the first big bloom flush fades in early to mid-summer, use a pair of garden hedge shears (from Amazon) to shear the whole plant back by a third,' Michael recommends. 'Focus on removing spent blooms and some foliage to promote a second flush of flowers and keep the plant compact and tidy,' he says.

Read our guide on how and when to prune catmint for more information on different techniques to use.

4. Zinnia

Plants to deadhead in August don't just involve must-have perennials, you can get also more out of your annuals by giving them a bit of attention this month.

Zinnias are cut-and-come-again flowers, so it makes sense removing the flower stalks will encourage a returning display while the summer temperatures stick around.

I have zinnias growing in my cut flower garden and have been enjoying harvesting them to display in vases in my home. But, I have also allowed many of them to stay on display in my yard, offering a bright and cheery view.

When the blooms begin to fade and shrivel, I deadhead my zinnias. In just a matter of days, new flower buds appear. To do this correctly, cut the zinnia flower stem down to just above a set of leaves.

I find the stems of zinnias too tough for snips or scissors, and rather use pruning shears (from Amazon) to make clean cuts.

5. Lantana

This is another plant typically grown as one of the best fast-growing annuals, but it is actually a tender perennial. Lantana is a charming plant with clusters of multi-colored blooms. It belongs to the verbena varieties family and is popular with pollinators, flowering from early summer up until the first frost.

Deadheading is a key aspect of growing lantana if you want to promote a longer blooming period. Look out for when flowers start to form seedpods and then snip down to a leaf node.

When deadheading lantana, you may also wish to take lantana cuttings to propagate and get even more of these beautiful plants for free. You should also fertilize lantana throughout summer to aid flower growth (using this flower fertilizer from Amazon).

6. Coneflower

Coneflower is one of the easiest plants to deadhead in August to spot. It dramatically darkens in color, wilts, and its petals may even fall off.

'Cut the flower stalk down to a set of leaves or a side bud. Deadheading coneflowers will extend the bloom period and encourage branching with more flowers,' says Michael.

But, you may also want to consider leaving some of your fading coneflowers for your winter garden, as their seedheads make the list of the best architectural plants.

'Seedheads will also feed birds in winter and help other wildlife into fall,' Michael adds.

7. Lavender

It can be easy to mistake your lavender being done for the year when those iconic purple flowers become dull in mid-summer. But, getting out your pruners and deadheading lavender in August can reward you with a late summer, fragrant display that pollinators will thank you for.

'Once most flowers are faded or dried in mid to late summer, snip the stems down to just above the foliage mound,' Michael advises.

You want to avoid cutting into woody stems as this isn't likely to regrow. Although, there are a few things you can do to revive woody lavender plants. Reading up on our guide to lavender growing mistakes can also help you prevent your plant becoming so woody.

FAQs

Should I deadhead any shrubs in August?

Yes, there are many benefits to deadheading some flowering shrubs in August. Examples include butterfly bush, roses, and caryopteris, which can all typically provide a second flush of blooms if deadheaded during this month. Not all shrubs will benefit from deadheading in August, however, so it's best to do some research around the specific flowering shrub you have in your yard.

Once your second flush of blooms start to fade in fall, consider collecting seeds to replant next year. You can also using dried seedheads for decorating with dried flowers and indoor arrangements.

Shop deadheading essentials:

Bedding plants (think gaudy fuchsias, petunias, begonias, and lobelias, to name a few), have all fallen dramatically out of fashion. Whilst some think of them as classic, even kitsch, additions to hanging baskets, borders, and containers, for some of us, they will always be dated throwbacks that scarcely belong in the Municipal parks they are so often found in. Happily, there are many plants to grow instead of bedding plants that offer similar vigour and theatrics, so not all joy is lost.

Bedding plants, which mostly consist of annuals, are often thought of as great filler plants, and to plug unforgiving gaps.

Many annual flowers, biennials, and perennials would serve you and the local wildlife far more generously. Here are seven alternatives to bedding plants that we recommend you try, and wave goodbye to busy lizzies for good.

Seven plants to grow instead of bedding plants

Whilst bedding plants do offer a short-lived explosion of color, at what cost? Bedding plants are carefully bred to ensure total conformity, a process that involves a great deal of chemical fertilisers and intensely managed cultivation.

More often than not, they have dreadfully short lifespans, and most are bred to be sterile, with no pollen and therefore no benefit to wildlife at all. With this in mind, apart from putting on a showbiz display of ostentatious color, they offer no benefit to the garden's ecosystem whatsoever.

To my mind, this is the antithesis of what a garden should represent, and doesn't chime with our zero-waste gardening efforts, in the face of our era's sustainability challenges. Here are my seven bedding plant alternatives.

1. Salvia 'Roman Red'

Salvia is a huge genus, and from my experience, one of the very best plants for butterflies, which flock to any salvia I have ever planted as if in a trance.

Salvias are also one of the best perennial plants for pots, as their varied structural nature adds softness and texture to plants that have a more shrubby backbone, like roses and hydrangeas.

The highly floriferous hardy perennial Salvia 'Roman Red' is a riot of the most sensational ruby red color, slender flame buds opening up within the most magnificent dark green foliage. If you keep deadheading it will flower non-stop right up to the end of fall, without any complaints.

Other magnificent types of salvia I grow in my garden are the bright and beautiful Salvia microphylla 'Wine and Roses' and my all-time favorite of the salvia varieties, Salvia microphylla ‘Delice Aquamarine’.

Height: Reaches a height of 28 to 34" (71 to 86 cm)

Best for: A burst of the most spectacular color brilliance and a butterfly magnet

2. Helenium

If you are partial to planting bedding daisies, which require disproportionate amounts of energy to grow and die at the end of the season, it is well worth substituting them for these long-flowering, hardy, herbaceous perennials, which return year after year.

Unlike outdated bedding daisies, which offer no particular known value to wildlife, helenium is a mecca for beneficial insects. Planted in great swathes, it will produce fat cushions of flower, like a net of orange shuttlecocks.

Both echinacea and helenium are used as butterfly and hummingbird nectar plants, and as such, I like to plant them together. You can buy a fantastic echinacea and helenium butterfly attractor mix from Eden Brothers.

Height: Typically grow to a height of 2 to 5 feet

Best for: Drama in the middle of a flower bed

3. Rose Campions (Lychnis coronaria)

Rose campion (Lychnis coronaria) is always a delight to spot in any garden, with their vivacious rose pink flowers and charming woolly silvery foliage.

It earns its keep, being drought-tolerant and pleasingly low-maintenance. Planted en masse, rose campions are more visually captivating than even the brightest of bedding plants. Be sure to plant a good cluster of them together for maximum visual impact, or more of a cottage garden aesthetic, disperse them amongst plants such as scabiosa, napeta, and larkspur.

Rose campions are keen self-seeding flowers that will pop up throughout your flower beds without hesitation if allowed to, which, if you ask me, merely adds to their charm. Though you can easily control this with some summer deadheading.

You can buy them as potted plants or buy rose campion seeds like these from Amazon, which make it a modestly priced addition to the garden that works like a carthorse at lighting up the garden from June to October.

Height: Reaches a height of 36"

Best for: Attracting hummingbirds

4. Geum 'Totally Tangerine'

Oh, the ever-optimistic sight of the dancing head of a geum plant. If you are ever looking for flower border ideas and want a border of hummocky, bee-filled gentleness, then geums are a must-have.

Whilst geums have long held their place in the garden design canon, Geum 'Totally Tangerine' has very quickly become the top contender, thanks to its particularly pretty marmalade coloring and scalloped petals. It has become an RHS Chelsea stalwart for its reliable and prolific flowering.

You can pick up Totally Tangerine at many local retailers. Other geums worth taking note of are Geum 'Blazing Sunset' from Nature Hills, which is a mesmerizing, deep, temptress-red that lures in swarms of honey bees, and the geum that makes for the most beautiful cut flower? Try Geum 'Mai Tai' from Great Garden Plants.

Height: Typically reaches a height of 36"

Best for: Filling the May gap - flowering early to add interest when the garden needs color

5. Geranium Rozanne

Much loved for its vigorous growth, sprawling habit, and vivid violet-blue flowers, Rozanne is also one of the best geranium varieties for attracting bees, moths, butterflies, and other pollinators, since it is choc-full of nectar-rich pollen, there for the taking.

This geranium is elegant and uncomplicated; it can be used in borders, rock gardens, to underplant roses, or to spill seductively out of containers.

Combined with other blue tones, it is a catalyst that unites all the tones of the surrounding flowers in a harmonic sequence. Plant cunning successions of this plant at the front of the border, and they will do nothing but flourish. You can buy Geranium Rozanne as a garden-ready plant at Burpee.

Height: Typically reaches 20" in height

Best for: Long blooming period, from spring till the first frost

6. Dahlia 'Mystic Dreamer'

When weaning yourself off bedding plants, a good starting point is to introduce masses of dahlias.

All dahlia varieties are such givers in the garden, flowering their socks off for months and soaring to the sky with exaggerated grandeur.

Whilst it is impossible to pinpoint my favorite dahlia of them all, Dahlia 'Mystic Dreamer', available from Burpee, is a classic beauty. The flowers pop out from the most sumptuous dark chocolate brown, almost black, foliage, and since they're so easy for pollinators to spot, they are always teeming with feeding bees.

It will flower over and over again from May till the end of October, so long as you deadhead, and this cut and come again habit makes them one of the very best cutting garden flowers.

Height: Reaches a height of around 18-24" tall

Best for: Dazzling cut flower arrangements

7. Zinnia elegans 'Envy'

Zinnias are summer-blooming annuals, which are must-haves if you are planning a cut-flower garden. Thanks to recent breeding efforts, there are so many zinnia varieties available now in a dazzling array of jewel box colors.

In my opinion, adding hints of acid-green into a color palette always looks tasteful and unerringly chic. Although acid green might seem a rather arresting color, impact does not conquer grace, and it appears much more gentle and illuminating rather than imposing when in situ.

Zinnia 'Envy' is a firm favorite amongst our pollinator friends; it attracts ladybugs for pest control and needs little to no attention, and it won’t even need mulch. They are refreshingly easy to grow from seed, like these Zinnia 'Envy' seeds available at Eden Brothers.

Height: Reaches a height of around 24" tall

Best for: Attracting pollinators

Shop summer gardening essentials

Try one of these plants to grow instead of bedding plants, and you might be pleasantly surprised.

Beautiful plants should be aesthetically pleasing, but also serve a purpose; that's why it's important to think about the plants for pollinators as much as you possibly can. Not only will this be a boon to your garden's overall health and biodiversity, but where insects and pollinators dwell, beauty can be found.

Glass windows, doors and mirrors are a design win for us, but for birds, they can be disorienting. From small patio doors to entire glass façades, reflective or transparent surfaces confuse birds into thinking they’re flying into open sky.

The good news is, you can drastically reduce these often deadly collisions with a few clever, expert-backed changes at home, from making your windows more visible to adjusting the lighting in your home.

All you need are some simple, essential DIY skills to help create a safer home environment for your local birds.

How to stop birds flying into windows, doors and mirrors

1. Apply decals or film to break up reflections

'Birds collide with glass for two primary reasons: Reflection and transparency,' explains Maren Gimpel, associate director of Foreman’s Branch Bird Observatory at Washington College, adding, 'They perceive the reflection of trees or sky as real habitat, or they try to fly through what looks like open space.'

The best fix is to make the glass visible using the right window treatment ideas. Decals, white tape, and marker patterns applied to the outside of the window help break up the illusion. 'These patterns should be no more than two inches apart,' says Maren, adding, 'Spacing is critical – birds will attempt to fly through even small gaps.'

Make sure to avoid common window treatment mistakes that amplify reflections, and instead aim to soften interior views to reduce the chance of strikes.

Feather Friendly window markers [available at Amazon] are a top choice, approved by the American Bird Conservancy and used at Washington College’s environmental center, where they’ve reduced collisions by over 95%. 'They cover only 6–8% of the glass and don’t block views,' Maren explains.

Thomas Patterson from Glass Doctor also recommends exterior films, 'They’re easy to apply, reduce glare and reflections, and can improve energy efficiency.'

Knowing where interior designers buy window treatments will help to bring style, privacy, and sun protection that can double as visual barriers for birds. You can also obstruct your window to maximize a space's style while providing visibility for birds.

Before applying decals, clean your windows – it’ll help your materials stick better and avoid streaks. And for homes in noisy areas, you could use it as a chance to combine upgrades and soundproof your windows.

2. Dim or turn off lights at night

Artificial light can also be dangerous. 'Birds, particularly in spring and fall, are drawn to lit areas,' says Maren. 'Dawn is a common time for strikes, as birds descend and mistake reflections for habitat.'

Using smart lights that dim as the evening gets darker can help solve the problem. 'Warm-light LEDs are less confusing for birds,' says Thomas, adding, 'closing blinds or curtains at night helps reduce interior reflections.'

The benefits of smart lighting include being able to set warmer lighting automatically – I use Philips Hue smart bulbs at home, and they're great for any lamp or light fixture.

3. Rethink your landscaping

'The closer glass is to dense vegetation, the greater the risk of bird strikes,' says Maren, adding, 'If a window reflects trees or shrubs, birds think it’s part of the landscape.'

Avoid placing plants or feeders directly in front of large panes. Instead, offset greenery or use outdoor features like trellises or shrubs to break up reflections. You can also deter certain species using colors that repel pigeons, for example.

If you feed birds, 'Place bird feeders and baths either more than 30 feet away or within 3 feet of windows,' Thomas says. Closer bird feeders reduce flight speed, and feeders placed further away help to prevent disorientation.

'Move indoor plants away from windows too. Birds might try to reach them, especially if they see the greenery from outside,' he continues.

You can get creative with bird feeder alternatives to provide safety outside your home. And if you’re already updating your home, it’s worth adding bird protection to bigger jobs like weatherproofing your windows.

As Maren puts it, 'This isn’t a bird problem – it’s a design problem. The more we treat it that way, the more we can protect our ecosystems.'

Next, delve into our wildlife-friendly garden ideas and learn about natural pest control methods that are humane and non-toxic.

It’s official; the garden upgrades that designers never regret aren’t flashy or fleeting; instead, they’re the thoughtful changes that quietly transform a space, season after season.

Whether it’s a city courtyard garden, a shady side yard, a suburban spot (complete with white picket fence), or a rambling country plot, it makes sense that you want to dial up the ‘oasis’ factor on your backyard ideas like a pro.

Now, this might mean making a subtle shift, or a bigger structural change, but designers agree on one thing: you want to enhance how the space is lived in, not just how it looks.

The 9 garden upgrades designers never regret

From integrated seating to soft lighting, sensory planting to clever zoning, it stands to reason that the garden upgrades designers never regret can and will stand the test of time.

While learning how to commission a garden designer is likely the easiest way to go about this, there are some pro tips and tricks out there for those who'd like to do the work themselves.

Rather than reach for the latest trend or quick fix, then, take a cue from the professionals and look this way.

1. Creating a hydrozone

Hydrozoning might sound like something from a sci-fi film, but the concept couldn't be simpler; you just need to make sure that you group plants with similar water needs together in your garden.

'I never regret upgrading to a smart, hydrozoned irrigation system,' says Shireen Zia – an award-winning designer and principal of EcoGardens Landscape Design.

'It’s become more of a necessity than a luxury. It protects plant health, conserves water, and makes seasonal adjustments effortless,' adds Shireen, noting that it's the easiest way for beginners to learn how to water plants properly.

2. Add an irrigation system

While watering by hand is a great way to soak the roots of your plants, you can also take the hard grafting out using soaker hoses, drip irrigation, or sprinklers like this Eden sprinkler system from Amazon.

'An irrigation system is a game changer, as it ensures that your plants stay healthy, saves you time, and can be hidden underground, maintaining the beauty of your garden,' says Alexander Betz, landscape designer and founder of Plant by Number.

Seth Pearsoll, Creative Director and VP, Flower Show at Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, agrees wholeheartedly.

'Invisible, efficient systems take one big worry off your plate. Good irrigation lets you focus on enjoying the garden, not keeping it alive,' he says promisingly.

'Don't forget to focus on drainage, either; it's not glamorous, but foundational. A well-drained, properly graded site makes everything else easier, and makes the garden last.'

3. Opt for high-quality foundation plantings

It's a big part of learning how to plan a garden, so it makes sense that foundational planting is one of those garden upgrades designers never regret.

'Foundation plants are the shrubs, evergreens, and structural plants placed around the base of a home to serve as the visual anchor for the landscape,' explains Linda Vater, garden design expert on behalf of Southern Living® Plant Collection.

'Many newly built homes are either a blank slate with little to no landscaping, or they may have a selection of plants that don’t suit the taste of the new homeowner,' she continues.

'Sometimes, existing foundation plantings may lack traits like pest and disease resistance, heat tolerance, or drought tolerance, which may lead them to decline faster than plants that have been specially bred with those traits.'

Linda goes on to note that 'upgrading your foundation might involve replacing existing shrubs with hardier, more low-maintenance varieties that offer desirable traits such as reduced water requirements or minimal pruning needs'.

'It could also mean introducing selections that are more distinctive and tailored to your personal style; for example, adding vibrant foliage color with ‘Sunshine’ Ligustrum or Purple Diamond® Semi-Dwarf Loropetalum.'

Whatever you decide, Linda swears that 'investing in this upgrade early means a garden that feels intentional, cohesive, and enduring'.

'Great foundation plantings can frame your home’s architecture, soften harsh lines, and provide year-round interest,' she finishes.

Seth Pearsoll of the PHS points out that, while 'perennials come and go, a backbone of trees and shrubs gives permanence, texture, and year-round shape'.

Shireen Zia agrees, adding that 'strategically placed shade trees brings instant privacy, comfort, and structure – and all while enhancing microclimates, too'.

4. Make thoughtful lighting choices

Be sure to research your outdoor lighting ideas if you want your garden to look like it was designed by a pro; honestly, a good ambient system is one of those garden upgrades that designers never regret.

'Thoughtful, low-voltage landscape lighting transforms the garden after dark, highlighting focal points, adding safety, and extending usability,' says Shireen Zia.

'Adding lighting features can transform the garden after dark while enhancing safety. Incorporate spike lights for plants and trees, wall-mounted up/down lights for fences and walls, and recessed step or decking lights,' agrees Andrew Betz.

As Seth Pearsoll points out, 'outdoor lighting should feel like moonlight, not a spotlight', so it's best to invest in 'integrated, low-glare systems elevate evening use without screaming for attention'.

Try something like these wallet-friendly GIGALUMI Solar Lights from Amazon to help you get started.

5. Invest in timeless containers

Container garden or not, forking out for stylish outdoor planters and pots is one of those savvy moves beloved by gardening pros.

'Timeless, high-quality containers are a garden upgrade that rarely disappoints. They add structure, height, and a sense of intention to patios, entryways, and garden beds, and they’re perfect for seasonal displays or spots where in-ground planting isn’t practical,' promises Linda Vater.

'When it comes to purchasing containers, material matters. Lightweight resin planters are a good investment if you plan on moving your pots throughout the year, offering the look of stone or ceramic without the weight,' continues Linda.

'Terracotta promotes excellent drainage, while cast stone and high-fired ceramic are durable, elegant options. When it comes to appearance, neutral colors and classic shapes like urns, globes, and rectangles remain stylish year after year.'

Something like Amazon's Creative Co-Op Large Orange & Whitewashed Terracotta Urn, then, should do the job nicely.

6. Define your garden rooms

If you can do it, Shireen Zia says that 'designing purposeful zones – whether for dining, relaxation, or edible gardening – establishes structure and enhances spatial flow'.

'This thoughtful approach encourages intentional use of the landscape while allowing it to evolve seamlessly with a family’s changing needs,' she says, dubbing this one of the genius garden upgrades designers never regret.

'Transitional moments – where materials shift, or beds are clearly framed – give the garden clarity and confidence,' agrees Seth Pearsoll.

'It’s how you move from yard to landscape.'

7. Opt for quality, always

Using quality hardscape materials to bring your garden ideas to life – such as natural stone, high-end pavers, or sustainably sourced wood – is absolutely on our list of garden upgrades designers never regret.

'Doing this enhances the overall elegance and craftsmanship of the landscape, as these materials bring a timeless appeal and contribute to the garden’s durability and long-lasting value,' explains Shireen Zia.

And, on that note, Seth Pearsoll urges gardeners to remember that 'less really is more'. 'Repeating color, plant forms, or materials calms the chaos and makes the garden feel thoughtful and designed,' he says.

8. Install a good-quality fence

Another of those garden upgrades designers never regret? Paying a little more money to bring all of your beautiful fence ideas to life.

'Swapping out the chain-link fence for a wooden or picket fence can give your backyard a more polished look,' says Alexander Betz. 'Or, for a more plant-based approach, consider a living fence by planting a row of trees or large plants to create the illusion of a fence.'

9. Create a new flower bed

Yes, you'd best believe that your overflowing list of flower bed ideas could absolutely lend itself to our list of the garden upgrade ideas that designers never regret.

'We’ve all looked at that open patch of grass or underutilized corner in the landscape and imagined the possibilities, but creating a new garden bed can feel overwhelming – especially if you’re contending with tough soil,' says Linda Vater, noting that this project 'requires vision, patience, and a bit of elbow grease'.

'Garden beds create natural focal points, guide the eye through the landscape, and provide a stage for plants to shine. They can soften hard edges, add pizzazz to mailboxes, frame architectural features, or simply add lushness and texture to a yard,' she explains.

'With proper preparation – such as amending the soil and choosing plants suited to the conditions – a new garden bed can thrive for years with relatively low maintenance,' continues Linda.

'Beyond the aesthetic boost, beds also encourage biodiversity by offering habitats for pollinators and beneficial insects. Whether it’s a small border along a walkway or a sweeping curved bed around a tree, carving out a new planting area is one of the most rewarding upgrades a homeowner can make.'

FAQs

How can I make my garden look better?

According to award-winning garden designer Shireen Zia, the easiest way to make your garden look better is to install an integrated water feature.

'Whether a minimalist basin or a custom fountain, water introduces movement, sound, and a calming rhythm. It’s often the element that turns a space into a sanctuary,' she says.

Seth Pearsoll, meanwhile, urges gardeners to remember that 'designers don’t “use all the colors.” We edit'.

'Think less variety, more rhythm, like a chorus, not a solo,' he says, insisting it's better to pick 1-3 colours than go for the full rainbow effect.

When it comes to the garden upgrades which designers never regret, then, the trick is to think long-term; good drainage, excellent native planting, zoned areas, quality materials, and a restricted colour palette will all go a long way to making a beautiful outdoor space.

Still, don't forget that 'every garden needs a moment that feels brave,' says Seth Pearsoll. 'A massive container, a dramatic tree, a color choice that breaks the rules,' he suggests. 'Just one good risk brings the rest into focus!'

If you'll excuse us, then, we're off to think outside the box (and get into the garden at the same time).

Deep in the heart of South Africa lies the vast, arid, semi-desert region of the Karoo. This unique mountainous, rocky, and sandy landscape is home to impressive vegetation made up of rare and recognizable succulents alike. This week, this special environment can be found right in the middle of London at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2025 – and I had the pleasure of stepping into it yesterday.

Created by the show sponsors The Newt in Somerset, the Karoo Succulent Garden is a truly breath-taking snapshot of the Karoo's biodiverse, harsh growing environment. With my own heritage lying in the Western Cape of South Africa, it was particularly warming to see some of the best type of succulents from 15 plant families celebrated at the biggest gardening event of the year. They stand out as some of the best architectural plants, with quirky shapes and growing habits that make them living sculptures.

From towering quiver trees to tiny gem-sized lithops, the way in which these plants have adapted to survive in such adverse conditions is captivating. I was fortunate enough to sit down with estate architect at The Newt and designer behind the creation, Katie Lewis, and The Newt's head gardener, Harry Baldwin, to find out more about the fascinating plants of the Karoo Succulent Garden. Here, they share all on the native habitat of these succulents and which of these plants can surprisingly be added to backyards in milder regions of the US and UK.

What are succulents of the Karoo?

When we think of landscaping with succulents and cacti, we tend to see images of hot, dry regions with little rainfall, and that's exactly what the Karoo region of South Africa is like.

Working on the garden alongside Katie Lewis was Ernst van Jaarsveld, master botanist at The Newt's South African sister estate, Babylonstoren.

'Ernst and his team took me out to the Karoo so I could see and experience the landscape and the plants. We went to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden and a few nurseries out there, and it was this visit that really shaped the show garden,' Katie says.

At Chelsea, visitors are invited to take a walk through a six section garden, representing different aspects of the Karoo. The whole installation is eye-catching, rich in the red hues of sand and rock used for landscaping.

'One thing I took away from the trip is the sculptural nature of the rock formations with the plants. It’s not just the plants and its not just the landscape that make up this region, it’s the combination of the two that give it its signature look,' Katie explains.

I was intrigued to set off on my Karoo journey at the show, starting with an astounding display of the 'quiver tree forest escarpment', housing unmissable quiver trees and aloe trees.

'We secured some mature trees for the installation, some of them are 47 years old and are more than three meters tall,' Katie says.

On the opposite side, a 'quartz field plateau' displays more than a thousand tiny succulent varieties among pieces of white quartz which glisten in sunlight. Here, I found lithops (or living stones) of different colors and string of pearls, as well as lesser known succulents like baby's toes and horse's teeth.

'This is to represent the quartz fields in the Karoo with its gem-like succulents. One thing I took away from there is the crunching sound of the ground. When you looked down, these tiny succulents were everywhere, so you had to be very careful where you walk,' Katie says.

Continuing through this African landscape at Chelsea, I came across the 'butter bush' and 'fan aloe hill'.

'This is where rocks go into an angular formation. To further enhance this architectural shape, we use both butter bush and fan aloe here. The fan aloe has leaves that form a fan shape and butter bush has really juicy, fat stems and apple green leaves,' Katie describes.

It isn't all about sun-loving plants, however, as there are also plenty of shade plants displayed at the Karoo Succulent Garden.

'The 'shady shale cliff face' is covered in lots of trailers and huggers which are more shade-tolerant,' Katie says. Here you will find the likes of string of hearts, elephant bush, pig's ear, and more of all unusual shapes and names.

This cliff display also showcases a collection of 12 types of rocks from South Africa. Each one plays a part in building the landscape in the Karoo, affecting the soil type and therefore what can be grown there.

The Karoo Garden finishes with an incredible interactive rock formation. Set up as a natural piano, the rock is high in metal contents, resonating when it is hit. Surrounding it, the 'euphorbia mound' houses succulents like jade plant, vibrant flowering ice plant, and African milk barrel.

The garden also has a bulb display area, full of haworthia and gasteria succulents on manmade quiver trees.

Thriving in a harsh environment

The way in which these succulents have adapted to this habitat is fascinating:

'The living stones live in cracks of rock and are flush on the ground to minimize exposure to sunlight and prevent leaf scorch. They have a protective waxy coating to also reflect sunlight, stopping them transpiring so quickly,' Harry Baldwin explains. 'There's also mist on the quartz fields which lithops retain moisture from.

'But it isn't just the environment they have adapted to. Euphorbias have milky sap to deter predators, for example,' he adds.

Which Karoo succulents can be grown at home?

For many people living in much milder, wetter climates than Africa, it seems impossible to create such drought-tolerant planting. But, Katie and Harry note that it is actually very possible to incorporate many Karoo succulents to your yard and indoor plant displays.

'Succulents can be so easily grown at home., it's actually a lot more basic than people tend to think,' Harry says. 'Of course, these plants want some requirements, dry and sunny generally speaking, but you just need to take into account you don’t need to water succulents all the time. Some people assume that when they’re dry, they need water immediately,' he adds.

For Harry, the Karoo Succulent Garden is a chance to show the possibility of indoor succulents, and indeed those for outdoors, go beyond those you find in supermarkets and retailers.

'They can be as big as small oak trees, like the aloidendrons on our 'quiver tree forest',' he says.

The larger succulents of the aloe trees can actually grow in the warmest US hardiness zones of 9-11, but there are also Karoo succulent options for those living in a climate as cool as zone 4 or zone 5.

'We have some ice plants (pictured above) which are hardy, surviving down to around 14°F,' Katie notes as an example. 'They're fine in a sheltered spot, so long as they're in a well-draining soil for succulents, but they are certainly suitable for outdoors and some are great as bedding plants,' she adds.

Of course, a wide range of Karoo succulents can be grown in an indoor garden, too, protected from excessive rainfall and too-cold temperatures in line with succulent care.

'Visitors will also see succulents they will recognise as houseplants, which will be interesting to see in their natural habitat, like mother-in-law's tongue, lithops, and haworthias,' she adds.

Get the look

FAQs

Can you grow Karoo succulents from seed?

Many succulents found in the Karoo region of South Africa can be grown from seed fairly easily. This includes aloe, jade plant, and living stones. Of course, you have to be patient as succulents are slow growers. But, by providing plenty of sunlight and managing moisture levels and warmth, you can grow these plants from seed successfully.

The Karoo succulents I witnessed at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2025 are some of the most beautiful in shape, texture, and color I have ever seen. They have adapted to harsh growing environments in fascinating ways and it's exciting to learn many can grow in milder climates too.

If you are planning to add some of these enticing plants to your yard or home, make sure to avoid these succulent mistakes that may hinder your success with them. The most important thing is to create an environment that works for the specific type of succulent you wish to grow.

A lot of people assume that learning how to design a minimalist garden means stripping your outdoor space of warmth or character, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.

Minimalist garden ideas are, essentially, a series of intentional choices: favouring clean lines, a restrained palette, and simple, thoughtful planting is the secret to creating a space that feels calm, uncluttered, and quietly luxurious.

The best part? Whether you're working with a compact courtyard or a sprawling modern garden, this sleek and soothing style works beautifully in plots of any size – as long as you know how to make every element count.

7 beautiful ways to design a minimalist garden

If you're keen to learn how to design a minimalist garden, it's best to 'think of it much the same as a minimalism in a home; calm, mess free, every item has an intentional place with clean lines and a soft colour palette,' says Ellen Mary Webster, author and professional gardener.

Shireen Zia – an award-winning designer and principal of EcoGardens Landscape Design, LLC – agrees, adding that a minimalist garden also demands a 'restrained plant palette, typically three to five varieties'.

'Sculptural trees provide structure and focal interest, while the overall design embraces a natural, effortless look that requires little to no maintenance to stay beautiful year-round,' she says.

While knowing how to commission a garden designer will help you to achieve this, you can also design a minimalist garden yourself, albeit with a few tips and tricks from the experts, of course.

1. Stick to a specific color palette

The first thing to remember when learning how to design a minimalist garden is this: keep your color palette on the smaller side.

'Sticking to a specific color palette can help maintain a minimalist aesthetic. For example, pairing green, blue, and white plants with similar growing requirements can create a cohesive look,' says Alexander Betz, landscape designer and founder of Plant by Number.

Linda Vater, garden design expert on behalf of Southern Living® Plant Collection, agrees, noting that 'you can create a trendy 'green washed' look by layering all-green plants in a variety of heights and textures, or select a single bloom color, such as white'.

'One additional benefit of white blooms is that some varieties will appeal to night pollinators and catch the last light of the day, extending the visual appeal of your moon garden into the twilight hours,' she continues.

Try incorporating your planters into this, too. For example, with a collection of terracotta pots (like these from Amazon).

BONUS TIP: when it comes to selecting an accent color for your minimalist garden, Linda urges you not to forget about foliage. 'For example, some variegated shrub varieties like Suntastic™ ‘Radiance’ Abelia offer white hues in their leaves, reflecting and furthering the visual impact of nearby white blooms,' she says promisingly.

2. Cut down on materials

Another top tip for when you come to design your own minimalist garden? Keep it consistent when it comes to materials, whether that's for furniture, patios, rock garden ideas, or gravel garden ideas.

'Ideally, you should only use a maximum of three materials to keep the design cohesive, clean and sharp,' advises Ellen Mary.

'A good combination, depending on your space and preference are concrete, wood and shingle. If you add in another material to the mix, this will start to overcrowd the space visually so keep it simple.'

3. Opt for neutrals

Be sure to research your patio materials before you start designing your minimalist garden.

'Neutral-tone gravel is my go-to foundation, often paired with clean, poured concrete or linear pavers, and bold, structural plant,' says Shireen Zia, who created the patio above using 'Yosemite Tan gravel and Castohn Bordo pavers [for] a seamless, monotone base'.

'It's a combo which offers warmth and structure for a clean, contemporary garden feel. Their soft tones enhance plant textures without overpowering the design,' she continues, advising people 'stay within a consistent hardscape color tone'.

'This, and using a monotone planting palette – punctuated by just one seasonal color – creates the calm, cohesive feel essential to a successful minimalist garden,' she promises.

4. Repetition, repetition, repetition

Based on what we've learned so far, it makes sense that one of the easiest ways to design a minimalist garden is to get repetitive.

'Often, a minimalist look can be achieved through the use of repetition in the garden. For instance, consider lining a pathway with a striking row of neatly pruned boxwoods or Japanese hollies. If you’re looking to give a garden bed a minimalist look, you might 'flood' the bed with a single-variety planting that offers rich textural interest like ‘Soft Caress’ Mahonia,' says Linda.

'With its soft, feather-like foliage and bright wintertime flowers, it’s dynamic enough to offer richness and complexity when viewed up close, while lending elegant simplicity from afar.'

Explore boxwood bushes at Nature Hills to add to your borders.

5. Keep it functional

If you're figuring out how to design a minimalist garden, take care to include some comfortable (yet functional) outdoor seating ideas.

The garden above, which was lovingly designed by Shireen, features 'a sculptural seat-wall that anchors the space as a functional focal point, framed by a muted plant palette of soft textures and subdued hues – embodying the quiet strength of minimalist design'.

ALTERNATIVELY: 'Including one or two stone hardscape features, such as a birdbath (like this one from Amazon) or a bench, can provide a focal point and tie the garden together,' says Alexander Betz.

'Consider using a planting guide like Plant By Number’s Birdbath Garden Map to simplify the planning process!'

6. Hide the clutter

It may not be the most glamorous part of learning how to design a minimalist garden, but it really is important to consider where you will store all of your tools and clutter.

'Maintaining a minimalist look can also come from hiding as many tools and garden accessories as possible,' explains Alexander.

'Store garden tools in the garage, conceal visible hoses, and keep the garden tidy by regularly getting rid of weeds and pruning. Avoid the temptation to overplant to ensure a clean and uncluttered space.'

There are lots of possibilities when it comes to storage ideas for sheds, like using this outdoor storage unit from Amazon, so you can keep your tools packed away neatly and organized.

7. Consider all spaces

You don't need lots of space to design a minimalist garden; even a small atrium will do, as Shireen's design above makes clear.

'This tiny atrium reflects a minimalist and Zen-inspired design, crafted with five thoughtfully chosen hardscape materials and a mass planting of five varieties to create a calm, cohesive retreat,' she says.

Create a minimalist garden within your backyard for a corner to escape to. Adding seating like this bench from Walmart can turn it into a quiet retreat.

FAQs

What are the best plants for a minimalist garden?

'Some plant options for achieving a minimalist style garden are grasses that have soft movement, such as carex and miscanthus, sculptural plants, like clipped topiary spheres, and low-maintenance ground covers, such as thyme, dichondra, or blue star creeper,' says Alexander Betz of Plant by Number.

Professional gardener and author Ellen Mary Webster agrees, suggesting 'lavender, shrub roses and box hedging' as good options, along with Japanese maple.

And garden design expert Linda Vater says to look for 'simple shapes, like the strappy, blade-like leaves on Clarity Blue™ Dianella or the grass-like Platinum Beauty® Lomandra' if you want a clean, minimalist look.

'The clumping habit on these two varieties gives structure to a minimalist garden when planted in rows, used in borders, or placed as a solo planting in elegant urns and containers,' she adds.

What are the most common mistakes in a minimalist garden?

According to award-winning garden designer Shireen Zia, the most common mistake when designing a minimalist garden is 'overcomplicating the palette or mixing too many textures, whether in hardscape materials or plant choices'.

'Choosing high-maintenance trees or shrubs can also disrupt the minimalist intent. Simplicity takes discipline, and in these spaces, less truly is more,' she stresses.

While it is worth investigating 'xeriscaping' and planning a dry garden to ensure you are planting appropriately for your local climate, there are so many things to consider when learning how to design a minimalist garden.

Essentially, though, the secret is to focus on 'clean lines, simple forms, and a restrained plant palette,' says Shireen.

Keep those principles in mind, and you’ll be well on your way to creating a garden that’s both effortlessly stylish and beautifully low-maintenance.

Growing houseplants is a lot more work than you might initially expect. It isn't as simple as choosing any plant and putting it in any spot of your home - different plants thrive in different conditions, so you need to think carefully about which rooms to house which plants in.

Not only this, you also need to consider which plants aid the feelings you wish to evoke in specific rooms. For example, the best bedroom plants are often those that help create a calming sanctuary - this is especially true in Feng Shui practices. On the flip side of this, there are a number of houseplants you should never place in your bedroom.

Whether it's because they're Feng Shui plants to avoid or they simply don't grow well in a bedroom environment, Feng Shui and interior design experts warn against using these plants in this part of the home. Here, we explore further and take a look at alternative bedroom plants to choose instead.

5 houseplants you should never place in your bedroom

If you're trying to be better plant parent, taking into consideration the best growing environment for your houseplants is key. Not only this, you'll get the most of your plants by choosing the right ones for the right spaces in your home.

That's why Feng Shui and interior design experts say it's a mistake to choose one of these five houseplants you should never place in your bedroom:

1. Snake plant

It may surprise you to see snake plants at the top of the list, especially because they're considered one of the best air-cleaning indoor plants. However, experts say there are a few reasons to avoid placing them in the room where you seek rest:

'I don't recommend snake plants because they have sword-like, spiky leaves which cut into the energy,' says Suzanne Roynon, Feng Shui expert. 'This can cause exhaustion, tension, stress, prickly conversations, and sharp words. None of which are really conducive to a harmonious, balanced environment,' she explains.

Even though many believe snake plants aid better sleep, you may find they are a bad energy item. On top of this, it's also a toxic plant, presenting an unwelcoming energy.

An alternative plant with less intrusive foliage is an aspidistra, or the cast-iron plant (available at Walmart). It has slender, non-toxic foliage, reminiscent of snake plants, but with softer appearance. These indoor low light plants also adapt well to shade, so won't complain when you have an occasional lazy morning and don't open your bedroom curtains for a few hours.

2. Cacti

Just like snake plants, cacti have spiky foliage that isn't ideal for creating a relaxing environment in a bedroom. Of course, there a wide range of cacti and indoor succulent types or all different shapes, but those with sharper foliage are the ones to avoid.

'Be careful with anything that is spiky or looks dangerous, like cacti,' says Hannah Yang, Psy.D, licensed psychologist and Feng Shui Expert. 'Spiky leaves can send out a threatening energy,' she adds.

When relocating your cacti, take care not to choose them as bathroom plants, either. Cacti are native to dry environments and won't grow well in the moist, humid environment of a bathroom.

Instead of cacti, choose succulents for your bedroom. Hannah notes rounder foliage is best and there are plenty of succulents with softer shapes available - like this succulent assortment from Walmart.

3. Euphorbia trigona

It's not just about avoiding plants that hinder the energy in our bedrooms, as it's also wise to not choose any toxic or irritant plants.

Euphorbia trigona (African milk tree), for example, is a popular plant for its tall spikes, but it does have an irritant sap and is toxic if ingested by humans or pets.

'As an interior designer and florist, I’ve worked with houseplants in many spaces, including bedrooms, where the choice of plants can greatly impact comfort and energy,' says Magda Callery.

'Bedrooms are a space for relaxation, and the risk of accidental contact with irritant euphorbia houseplants makes them less ideal for this area,' she explains.

For a pet-safe indoor plant alternative to African milk tree, try growing mother of millions kalanchoe. It's a succulent that has a similar skeletal look, and you'll also spot its pups hanging off the foliage which you can propagate.

4. Peace lily

You may have heard some houseplants absorb moisture, which occurs through foliar uptake, but there are also certain houseplants that transpire more than others, creating a humid environment. Peace lilies are included in this list, along with other indoor flowering plants.

Transpiration is the process of plants losing water through evaporation, like sweating. Flowering plants tend to have a higher transpiration rate than others due to having pores in their foliage and stomata.

The benefit of this is peace lilies are great at helping to increase humidity for other houseplants. However, as Magda notes: 'If you live in a climate that is already humid or you like a dry, comfortable sleeping environment, this isn't ideal.'

Instead, opt for variegated indoor plants that give you the same pop of color as flowering plants. For example, Monstera deliciosa 'Thai constellation' (from The Sill).

5. Calathea

Calatheas are notorious for being tricky. They'll quickly have a dramatic reaction to improper care, which is why it's essential to avoid calathea mistakes and find the optimal spot for these plants in your home - including providing sufficient light.

To care for calatheas correctly, they need plenty of exposure to light and will benefit from this in the early morning. For this reason, prevent keeping one in your bedroom where curtains may remain shut for some hours in daylight.

A lack of light may stunt growth of your calathea, cause calathea leaves to curl, or even lose their beautiful variegation that makes them so popular. You're also less likely to see your calathea move its leaves up and down (earning these plants the common name of 'prayer plant') if it isn't growing in plenty of bright light.

Alternative options to calatheas to still give you unique foliage in your bedroom include Anthurium clarinervium and the best begonia varieties.

FAQs

Can any houseplants help you sleep?

There are a range of houseplants thought to aid better sleep in different ways. For example, plants to make a living room smell nice can be used to bring relaxing aromas to your bedroom. Meanwhile, some plants are considered air-cleaning, like spider plants and ivy, which might leave your bedroom feeling more fresh for sleeping.

Of course, everyone has different preferences over houseplants and you may find one of these plants actually works well for the overall aesthetic and feel you are trying to create in your bedroom. Just don't forget to keep in mind whether a plant can thrive in your bedroom before selecting it - this goes for the houseplants you should never place in your entryway, too.

When considering which houseplants to place in your bedroom, you might want to also take a look at our expert guide on houseplants that reduce stress and can bring a feeling of calm to your space.

Native to South Africa, dwarf jade plants, also known as Portulacaria afra, have become a popular choice for bonsai enthusiasts in recent years, not least because the species is said to bring luck and fortune to those gardeners who lovingly tend them.

Dwarf jade bonsai trees are notably low-maintenance, thriving indoors with minimal care or attention. This hardy species also responds well to regular shaping and pruning, making them an easy succulent to manage.

So, if you are seeking to elevate your indoor plant collection this year, dwarf jade is one of the easiest bonsai trees to grow that will suit both complete beginners or seasoned bonsai experts. Here, one expert grower from Mississippi reveals all you need to know to learn how to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees.

How to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees indoors

In its native environment, Portulacaria afra can grow up to 10 feet tall, producing a thick trunk with a canopy of oval-shaped succulent leaves. As with all bonsai tree types, when correctly trained, this natural form can be miniaturized, looking particularly impressive when planted in a shallow ceramic dish. Here, we reveal how to get started and care for dwarf jade bonsai trees.

How to get started with dwarf jade bonsai trees

'Several bonsai species are low-maintenance and adaptable, making them ideal for beginners and experts alike,' says Brussel Martin, bonsai expert and owner of Brussel's Bonsai Nursery, based in Mississippi. 'For indoor bonsai growing, however, dwarf jade is one of the best.'

To begin, you need to source a healthy plant and suitable supplies. You want a young specimen with firm, glossy leaves and no signs of damage. Ask at your local plant nursery, or see these dwarf jade bonsai trees available from Brussel's Bonsai Nursery via Amazon.

Next, use a suitable, shallow pan to house your new bonsai tree. Make sure yours has a drainage hole, beneath which you can place a dish to collect any water that drains away. As with all bonsai trees, dwarf jade does not enjoy sitting in waterlogged soils, so using the right dish filled with free-draining bonsai soil is important. Bonsai ceramic pots are available from Amazon.

When grown outdoors, this species enjoys sunshine and warmth, thriving in US hardiness zone 9 plus. So, when growing dwarf jade as bonsai trees indoors, you want to position them away from external doors where the temperature can fluctuate. Do not let temperatures in your home drop below 40°F/5°C.

'In terms of how to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees, they thrive in bright but indirect light, making them perfect as a centerpiece in a room,' Brussel says. Avoid placing them on a windowsill as direct sunshine magnified through a window can damage the foliage. Red edges on the leaves appear when the plant is exposed to high light levels, which is nothing to worry about - just a sign that your plant is happy.

'In addition, remember that these plants are from an arid environment, so water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry to the touch,' Brussel says. This can be every two to three weeks during spring and summer, depending on the conditions in your home, and even less in fall and winter.

Ongoing care for dwarf jade bonsai trees

When considering ongoing care for a bonsai tree, dwarf jade trees are incredibly low-maintenance. Unlike other bonsai trees that require wire to shape them, dwarf jade trees generally produce a solid trunk that can happily support the canopy. However, be sure to regularly shape and prune them throughout spring and summer, to keep your bonsai looking good and growing in the desired form.

While dwarf jade bonsai trees can tolerate low light, it is also a good idea to rotate your planter once every two weeks, to ensure that all sides are receiving some light. This will ensure that your bonsai produces even growth on all sides.

In terms of how to water plants, keep an eye on the soil during spring and summer, as indoor pots will frequently dry out during the warmer months of the year. One effective method is to submerge your bonsai planter in a bucket of water, allowing the soil to soak for 15 minutes once every two or three weeks. Be sure that the water can then drain away and that the drainage hole is not obstructed.

Apply a balanced, diluted fertilizer every four to six weeks during the growing season to provide your plant with all the nutrients it needs. While they can survive for long periods without additional feed, doing so every two months will give your plant a boost. Bonsai fertilizer is available from Amazon. Avoid fertilizing during fall and winter, when the plant enters its dormant phase and is not actively growing.

Finally, while you can move your dwarf jade bonsai tree outdoors on warm, sunny days, be careful not to shock your plant. In summer, you can move your plant outside for a few hours of gentle, warm sunshine in the morning, but avoid doing so during the heat of the day in the afternoon.

FAQs

What are the white marks on my dwarf jade bonsai tree?

Dwarf jade bonsai trees are generally resilient, but as with any indoor plants, they can occasionally attract pests. If you notice white patches or marks at the leaf joints, it could be mealybugs. These sap-sucking scale insects can be treated with an organic neem oil, available from Amazon, which should be done in an open, ventilated environment. Quarantine infested plants until you have cleared any pests.

For another plant option, consider learning how to grow Japanese maple bonsai trees. While Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, are traditionally woodland plants, they make for ideal miniature bonsai trees when grown outdoors. Our guide has all the information to help you succeed.

Many indoor gardeners have regained a fascination with air plants, or Tillandsia, in recent years. It's become somewhat trendy to have these epiphytic plants hanging from ceilings or displayed in glass vessels around the home.

Although they can seem daunting to the novice houseplant owner, caring for air plants is actually very straightforward. That is, so long as you follow a few simple rules. These intriguing plants are often victim to overwatering or growing in the wrong environment, leading to a downfall that is hard to save.

Don't worry though, it's quite easy to avoid air plant mistakes once you're aware of them. That's why I've spoken to a houseplant expert to find out more about getting air plants to thrive in our homes. Here's everything he said to watch out for.

3 common air plant mistakes

It doesn't matter what type of air plant you have growing in your home - there are some simple guidelines to follow for all of them. Here, a plant expert outlines some common air plant mistakes to have on your radar.

1. Overwatering your air plant

Probably the most common indoor plant mistake associated with air plants is incorrect watering. Just like other epiphytic plants (those that often grow on the bark of trees in their natural habitat), air plants typically don't need as much water as some other types of houseplants.

'Air plants tend to grow on objects or other plants. They have adaptations to help deal with this. One of these is being able to deal with sporadic and short periods of rainfall,' says Tom Knight, houseplant expert and owner of Our Houseplants.

'They're not able to store large volumes of water like cacti or succulents, but instead, when they dry out fully, they essentially go dormant until the next rainfall,' he explains.

In the home, it's important to recreate this by not watering your houseplants too frequently. Air plants expect a period of drought and keeping them at a constant moisture level can cause issues like rot.

While they aren't thirsty houseplants, you also shouldn't wait too long to water them again: 'They're far better at dealing with underwatering than other plants, but you will need to water air plants eventually' Tom says.

Look for signs of foliage wrinkling or curling, especially during the warmer months.

2. Planting your air plant in soil

This one may sounds obvious, but if you're unfamiliar with air plants you might not realise these houseplants grow without soil for a reason - a potting mix can hinder their health.

'Most species of air plants have evolved not to grow roots at all. Some will have tiny roots, but they're superficial and only designed to attach to things. This means they will not grow properly in most potting mixes,' Tom explains.

'As soil holds water, planting your air plant in this is a recipe for disaster. The constant contact with moisture will eventually cause the plant to rot,' he adds.

Just like growing orchids, which have aerial roots, air plants don't cope well with the saturated environment of soil. You're likely to see a similar result as orchid root rot, detrimentally impacting the health of your air plant.

Instead, grow air plants in air plant terrariums or other glass vessels, like these hanging glass planters from Amazon. A bonus in displaying air plants in this way is it shows off their striking foliage.

3. Growing your air plant in too little light

Air plant mistakes aren't all to do with incorrect moisture levels. Lighting is also a key factor in keeping your air plant happy and healthy.

'Light is essential for all plants; photosynthesis can't occur without it and plants can't make energy to support themselves without this process,' Tom explains. 'This goes for air plants, too. If light levels are too low for prolonged periods, your air plant won't be around for long' he adds.

For all indoor plants, it's key to position them in a spot reminiscent of their native growing environment. When it comes to air plants, this means somewhere with the bright, indirect light similar to what they receive beneath the canopies of trees in tropical regions of north and south America.

Watch out for direct sunlight, however, which could cause leaf scorch and turn your air plant turning brown.

If the rooms in your home struggle to get plenty of sunlight, try using grow lights for houseplants. This grow light from Amazon even has a timer function so you don't have to worry about turning it off again.

FAQs

Do air plants need high humidity?

This all depends on the type of air plant you're growing. Many - including Tillandsia bulbosa and Tillandsia ionantha - come from humid natural environments and will appreciate higher humidity levels in your home. You can grow them as bathroom plants or use one of the methods to increase humidity for indoor plants.

On the other hand, Tom Knight, houseplant expert and owner of Our Houseplants, notes: 'Many species are also found in more arid places, and some even grow in deserts.' These types of air plants include Tillandsia tectorum and Tillandsia duratii, and will appreciate living in a drier spot of your home.

Can air plants survive on air alone?

Air plants are epiphytes, meaning they grow on other plants and objects in their natural environment, rather than in soil. While it's easy to assume they only need air to survive because of this, they actually wouldn't get very far without other sources of nutrition, water, and light. In fact, you can even feed air plants with this air plant fertilizer from Amazon to provide a boost of essential plant nutrients.

Now that you're more aware of these common air plant mistakes, it should be quite easy to grow them at home successfully. You may even want to try propagating air plants to have more of these wonderful houseplants in your home.

Something else Tom wants you to keep in mind, however: 'Avoid buying plants that have been glued onto decorative objects. 20 years ago, it was very common to buy air plants glued onto seashells, and they don't last long like this,' he warns.

A new technology developed by NASA means it is now possible to grow plants indoors using fog. The method is known as fogponics and uses much of the same principles as hydroponics, but with a slight difference.

'Instead of soil or even the water-based immersion used in traditional hydroponic gardening, fogponics relies on an ultra-fine mist to deliver nutrients and oxygen directly to the root system,' explains Renata Scorsone from Plantaform, which developed the first indoor smart garden to use advanced fogponics technology.

With so many pros and cons to hydroponic gardening already, this new tech means we can potentially be even more sustainable when growing organic produce at home. The look and feel of these pod-shaped indoor gardens is also super futuristic; with fog spilling out from oval-shaped the sides it almost takes on the appearance of post-modern art right there on your kitchen countertop. So how does fogponics work? We take a closer look.

Fogponics is a modified form of aeroponic farming, developed by NASA during its research into growing gardens in space without the need for soil or large amounts of water.

Aeroponics describes the process of plants being suspended in the air with their roots hanging down, where water and nutrients are delivered directly through mist. By refining the misting technology in aeroponics, NASA scientists created a finer mist that appears as 'fog,' hence fogponics.

'This innovative approach uses 30-50% less water than hydroponics and 98% less water than traditional growing methods while ensuring optimal root absorption and growth in a controlled environment,' Renata explains.

As an eco-friendly garden idea, it's also effective at delivering essential plant nutrients straight to plant roots with less wastage.

How does fogponics work?

Although this future of indoor gardening technology is expensive as an indoor garden tool - the Plantaform Smart Indoor Garden (available at Amazon) retails at $499.99 - it does involve a range of innovative mechanisms to ensure fog-growing can work.

'We use ultrasonic foggers to atomize water mixed with nutrients into micro-droplets or 'fog,' which is then dispersed in the root chamber,' explains Renata.

'These droplets are small enough to cling to the roots, ensuring they are continuously hydrated and fed while maintaining high oxygen levels,' she says.

Instead of plants using energy to search for water, the efficient delivery of water and nutrients enables them to focus on photosynthesis instead. This is aided by the use of grow lights in fogponic systems, much like many DIY hydroponic gardens.

'Plantaform’s built-in energy-efficient horticultural LED grow lights simulate sunlight, providing the specific spectrum needed for photosynthesis at different plant growth stages,' Renata notes. 'The light cycles are automated to optimize growth,' she adds, resulting in faster plant development.

Are there any drawbacks to growing with fogponics?

While fogponics technology has proven to be effective in growing a range of kitchen garden crops, Renata notes there are some nuances to be aware of:

'The ultra-fine mist is excellent for delivering nutrients, but it requires precise calibration to avoid over-saturation or nutrient imbalances. Additionally, because the roots are suspended in air, consistent misting is essential to prevent drying out.

'But, these concerns are more about implementation rather than the concept itself. With the right equipment and maintenance, fogponics supports robust growth for many types of plants, from leafy greens to flowering crops,' she explains.

There's no doubt fogponics will continue to evolve as new technology develops, and if more gardeners opt to try this green indoor growing method it could even top hydroponic gardening trends. But, if you're not quite ready to make the investment, there are several other affordable ways to reduce water waste in your yard and indoor garden.

Stella d'Oro daylily is a spectacular plant, and unsurprisingly, a popular choice among gardeners. Its compact size and low-maintenance nature are all part of its allure, but the pièce de résistance is its repeated display of golden blooms, which first emerge in early summer.

Reaching up to around two feet in height, these daylilies are perfect for pots, where they will add a splash of sunshine-color to a patio. Their smaller stature means they work well at the front of flower beds, too – try pairing them with other hot tones for a sizzling display.

Like most daylilies, growing Stella d'Oro is generally undemanding, but there are a few things to bear in mind. Below, plant professionals share their top tips for success.

How to grow Stella d'Oro daylily plants

Stella d'Oro daylilies are best planted in hardiness zones 3-9. Like when caring for any plant, watering properly, planting them in a suitable type of soil, and knowing when and how to cut them back are all key for helping them thrive.

Growing habits for Stella d'Oro daylily plants

Stella d'Oro daylilies are deciduous perennials, with long, thin leaves. You can divide these plants every few years to keep them healthy and enjoy 'new' plants for free.

It's easy to assume Stella d'Oro are summer bulbs, just like other lilies. However, they are in the Hemerocallis genus rather than Lilium, and have thick roots instead of bulbs.

While you can buy Stella d'Oro daylilies as potted plants, some nurseries offer them in bare-root form. For instance, you can shop a pack of three bare-root Stella d'Oro daylilies from Burpee, or potted plants from Nature Hills. Either way, be sure to water them in thoroughly after planting.

Growing guide for Stella d'Oro daylily plants

Soil: According to Alexander Betz of Plant by Number, Stella d’Oro daylilies suit a well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0 to 7.0). 'They are adaptable but do best in fertile, loamy soil,' he says. Kiersten Rankel of plant-care app Greg adds, 'If your soil is heavy or clay-like, consider amending it with compost or sand to improve drainage.'

Light: Full sun is best for blooms, highlights Alexander, however he notes that the plants will also tolerate partial shade. Anna Ohler, owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery, adds, 'If you're in a region with very hot summers, consider planting them in a spot where they’ll get some afternoon shade (under the canopy of a small tree is a popular place to plant daylilies). This helps prevent the plants from becoming stressed or their foliage from scorching in extreme heat.'

Watering: Kiersten says Stella d’Oro daylilies prefer consistent moisture but don’t like to sit in soggy soil. 'Water them about once a week, giving them a deep soak to keep the roots hydrated,' she advises. 'During hot or dry periods, you may need to water more frequently. Once established, these plants are relatively drought-tolerant but still appreciate regular watering for optimal blooming.' Anna recommends using drip irrigation if possible, or watering from the base of the plant to prevent mold or mildew growth on the foliage.

Fertilizing: 'Fertilizing Stella d’Oro daylilies helps keep them vigorous and blooming throughout the season,' says Kiersten. 'Apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring as new growth begins. You can also use a water-soluble fertilizer every four to six weeks during the growing season. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers.'

Pruning: Kiersten recommends deadheading throughout the blooming season to encourage continuous flowering. 'At the end of the growing season, cut back the foliage to about four to six inches above the ground once it starts to yellow and die back naturally. This helps prepare the plant for dormancy and reduces the risk of pests or diseases overwintering in the foliage.'

Toxicity: Daylilies are severely toxic plants for cats. They are generally considered less harmful for dogs, but can still cause stomach upset and other issues if consumed, so it's best to keep pets safely away from them.

FAQs

How should you prepare Stella d'Oro daylily plants for winter?

After trimming back daylilies' dead foliage in the fall, Anna Ohler recommends mulching around the base of Stella d'Oro daylily plants with dead leaves or wood chips to protect roots from freeze-thaw cycles. 'Remove or thin mulch in the spring,' she adds. Moving potted plants into more sheltered places and wrapping containers in frost cloths for particularly chilly nights will provide extra protection if necessary.

Do Stella d'Oro daylilies attract wildlife?

Yes, the beautiful blooms are a perfect plant for a butterfly garden, and will help attract hummingbirds to your yard, too.

If you're looking for more vibrant blooms for your summer garden, our guides on growing rudbeckia and coneflowers are also worth a look.

One thing I learned very quickly when I started collecting houseplants is you can't force a plant to grow in an environment it doesn't suit, even if you desperately want it to sit in that part of your home. This includes considering the room temperature because how warm different parts of your home are will determine what plants can grow there.

It's best to always research optimal growing environments for this reason. Caring for snake plants is no exception, and you may be wondering just how low of a room temperature these desert plants can tolerate.

Whether you're planning to grow snake plants outside or just in a chillier spot of your home, it's important to first determine whether they can thrive there. To help you out, I asked a plant expert 'are snake plants cold-tolerant?' Here's what he had to say.

Are snake plants cold-tolerant?

The short answer to 'are snake plants cold-tolerant?' is yes, to some extent they are.

This is largely explained by their native environment, where they grow in dry desert climates of West Central Africa. During the day temperatures are hot, but they drop dramatically at night.

'I actually had two potted snake plants outdoors this past fall, and they endured temperatures around 35°F,' says Raffaele Di Lallo, plant expert from Ohio Tropics. 'There was no damage at all, but you should definitely avoid temperatures at or below freezing for sure,' he adds.

Generally speaking, even though snake plants prefer a temperature between 60°F to 75°F, they will tolerate down to 50°F. However, as Raffaele exemplifies, there is some flexibility depending on the mildness of your US hardiness zone.

This means you can typically get away with growing snake plants as cold-tolerant houseplants in chillier spots of your home, too. However, it's best to follow essential houseplant winter care and move them away from cold windows and drafts during freezing spells.

What happens if a snake plant grows in freezing temperatures?

When growing in freezing temperatures, there's no denying you will spot your snake plant start to droop or even watch your snake plant die, as they aren't made to survive in these conditions.

'If they freeze, the foliage will go limp and become soft and mushy,' Raffaele warns.

'If temperatures are cold but above freezing, and the soil stays too wet, snake plants may experience houseplant root rot. Cold temperatures and wet soil is not a good combination,' he adds.

This can occur when growing snake plants indoors in a cold room, too. That's why you should take care to reduce watering of snake plants in fall and winter, when they aren't actively growing and the colder temperatures will cause the soil to dry out much more slowly.

This soil moisture meter from Amazon can help you identify when it's time to water your snake plant again to prevent overwatering.

FAQs

Can you revive a snake plant from cold damage?

Depending on how cold the temperature was and how long your snake plant was exposed to it, it is possible to revive this houseplant from cold damage.

'You can always trim back any mushy leaves and make sure to drain away any water so that nothing collects in the crown of the plant,' advises Raffaele Di Lallo, plant expert from Ohio Tropics. 'Allow the soil to dry out, and as long as the rhizomes under the soil haven't frozen, it can grow back,' he explains.

You'll need some essential pruning tools, like these pruning shears from Amazon, to cut away damaged foliage. You might also find it beneficial to boost essential plant nutrients with this snake plant fertilizer from Amazon to encourage new growth.

'My advice is to keep an eye on your local forecast if you have your plants outdoors,' Raffaele says. 'Things can change quickly, so being vigilant is important. You can also place them in a sheltered spot against a home or building, and this can help somewhat in a slightly warmer microclimate,' he advises.

If your snake plant is turning yellow and going limp, but it isn't growing outside preferable temperatures, there might be another cause. For example, you may need to repot your snake plant because it is becoming pot-bound, or you may need to move it somewhere brighter.

A popular myth is that winter is a slow time for a gardener. The list of jobs may be smaller than during other seasons, but there are still enjoyable and rewarding jobs to do. That includes propagation, as winter can be a fantastic time to start getting new plants for your garden by taking cuttings.

You can propagate lots of ornamental and edible shrubs by taking hardwood cuttings in winter. With a little time, planning, and patience, you can get a whole raft of new plants to add to your backyard ideas. Taking cuttings is also enjoyable and budget-friendly, as you get all these new shrubs for free.

With all that in mind, this guide highlights 11 great plants to propagate in winter and includes practical advice for each on taking plant cuttings and getting them to root successfully.

Propagating in winter - 11 plants suitable for cuttings

Taking hardwood cuttings is a great task to add to any winter gardening checklist and the following plants are ideal candidates:

1. Blueberries

If you grow blueberries and want more of these super soft fruit bushes, taking cuttings in winter is a dependable way to expand your collection. If you know when and how to prune blueberries, you can have all the available material you need at hand. The cuttings from pruning can be used as hardwood cuttings to get new blueberries to plant.

Choose healthy stems that are 6-10 inches long and trim the top and bottom, above and below a bud respectively. Place the cutting into a pot filled with well-draining potting mix and keep it somewhere warm and protected, such as a greenhouse or cold frame. The new cuttings should have developed roots by late spring and you can plant blueberries outside in your chosen spot.

2. Box

Boxwood is a versatile and popular evergreen shrub, suitable for topiary, hedging, or specimen shrubs. When landscaping with evergreens, you often need many plants to get the desired effect. Propagating box from cuttings is a simple way to get lots of new plants for group plantings - it requires patience but is certainly more budget-friendly than buying lots of box plants from the garden center.

Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken to propagate boxwood bushes in summer or the alternative is to take semi-hardwood cuttings in winter. Take healthy six-inch stems and strip off the lower half of the foliage, before dipping in rooting hormone and planting into a well-draining potting mix. Keep the container in a greenhouse or cold frame for around three months and pot up the cuttings in spring into a large container to continue growing on.

3. Camellia

The large showy flowers of camellias provide a revitalizing burst of color and drama during colder months, backed up by the evergreen shrub’s always-gorgeous glossy foliage. Camellias can be a welcome sight when there is little color elsewhere. So, naturally, whether you have them in beds or grow camellias in pots, you may want more to brighten up those early days of the year.

Taking camellia cuttings in winter is a great method to do this. In general, cuttings are one of the best ways to propagate camellias, as you are guaranteed an identical plant - whereas growing from seed comes with the risk of getting different flowers. When you try to propagate camellias from cuttings, removing a half-inch strip of bark from the cutting’s base and dipping it in rooting hormone can help improve your chances of success.

4. Dogwood

Dogwoods come in a variety of sizes and colors and are adored for their spectacular fall color. The colored stems impress during the colder months and are often pruned back hard in late winter or early spring, before the new growth emerges, to encourage a flush of new, vibrant stems.

Pruning is a vital part of growing and caring for dogwoods and you can take cuttings of dogwood when you prune in winter to get new plants, for free. Take a 12-16 inch cutting of straight and pencil-thick one-year-old wood and trim it at the top and bottom. Place the cutting directly into a prepared bed or pots with at least two buds under the soil surface from which the cutting will develop new roots.

5. Gooseberries

Sweet and sharp gooseberries can be used in jams, preserves, puddings, or many other recipes and it is really easy to grow gooseberries at home. As with lots of soft fruit bushes, the time to prune gooseberries comes in the plant’s dormancy period in winter or early spring - and it is also an ideal time to root hardwood cuttings of gooseberry bushes. Gooseberries are easy and reliable from hardwood cuttings taken in winter.

Select healthy stems that are one year old and soft at the end but woodier at the base. Take cuttings that are 10-12 inches long. Cut just above a bud at an angle at the top and make a straight cut at the base below a bud. You can dip the cutting in the rooting hormone, but gooseberries will tend to root without.

Put the cuttings into a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix with at least two-thirds under the soil. Keep the cutting well watered and pot it up once it has a strong root network, before planting into the garden come fall.

6. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas are some of the most popular flowering shrubs nowadays, thanks to their large and showy blooms in different shapes, colors, and sizes. Growing hydrangeas can be very simple and enjoyable, they are low-maintenance shrubs that bloom reliably year after year and many hydrangea varieties are great plants for bees and other pollinators.

It is more common to propagate hydrangeas from softwood cuttings in the spring, however, you can also take hydrangea cuttings in winter. These winter cuttings will take a bit longer, but you can still enjoy success and get new shrubs to add to your garden.

Choose healthy stems and remove the soft tip to end up with a 6-10 inch cutting trimmed above a bud at the top and below a bud at the bottom. Dip the base in rooting hormone and place it in a pot filled with potting mix - you can plant it directly in the ground but it may take longer to root.

7. Mulberries

Mulberries are historic, low-maintenance fruit trees. Grow a mulberry tree and you will get delicious, large, and juicy fruits that are not normally available in grocery stores but are ideal for jams and jellies.

They can be propagated by softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer, or by hardwood cuttings in winter. Take mulberry tree cuttings in January or February of healthy one-year-old shoots that should be soft at the tip and woodier at the base. Cut into 6-12 inch sections and dip in rooting hormone.

The cuttings can be inserted into a trench outdoors, or pots filled with well-draining potting mix and placed into a cold frame or unheated greenhouse until next fall.

8. Roses

Taking rose cuttings is a simple way to get more of your favorite rose to plant, for free. Taking hardwood cuttings when the rose is dormant in winter is a reliable propagation method to get more rose shrubs.

Choose material from the previous year’s growth, picking healthy stems around the thickness of a pencil and 12-20 inches long. Make an angled cut above a bud and a straight cut below a bud and plant the rose cutting into a narrow trench with a one-inch layer of sand or grit in the bottom for drainage. Place each cutting at least six inches apart, firm each in the soil, and water well.

9. Spirea

Spirea are popular deciduous shrubs as they can be covered with small clusters of blooms in spring and summer - with blooms coming in shades of white, pink, and purple.

Also known as meadowsweet, they are low maintenance and ideal for propagating from hardwood cuttings in winter during their dormancy. Take cuttings of 10-12 inch healthy stems, place them into pots, and keep them in a warm and protected environment to aid rooting, such as a cold frame or greenhouse. Keep the cuttings well watered, but not waterlogged, and they should start to show signs of new growth come spring.

10. Weigela

The bright trumpet-shaped blooms of weigela are impactful and there are varieties in different vivid colors and with dramatic variegated foliage. They are shrubs that catch the eye and you may want to add to your collection of weigela, which can be done from cuttings in winter.

If you grow a weigela you love, hardwood cuttings allow you to get a free exact clone of that parent plant. As for how to take weigela cuttings, trim woody stems 10-12 inches long and place them into pots filled with well-draining potting mix. Place the cuttings somewhere warm and protected and water them sparingly. The cuttings should show signs of rooting in spring.

11. Wisteria

You can grow wisteria from cuttings at the same time as you prune wisteria in winter. Winter wisteria pruning focuses on trimming back last year’s growth so the plant can focus energy on this spring’s dramatic flowering. Any healthy sections of wisteria that grew last season and are at least 12 inches long can be used to propagate new plants in winter - if you so desire.

Choose a section and snip it above and below a node - with a slanting cut at the top and a flat cut at the bottom. Place the cutting into a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix and put it somewhere warm - with at least two buds below the soil line. Covering the cutting with a clear plastic bag can help with humidity and benefit rooting. Water the cutting regularly to keep the soil consistently moist.

Hopefully, this list of plants to propagate in winter has whetted your appetite to grow more plants this month and next to add to your yard. There are also seeds you may wish to plant in January and the weeks ahead, including a selection of vegetables to plant in January and flowers to sow in February to fill your garden with color and crops in the season ahead.

Most front or backyards tend to rely on hedge plants to provide a green boundary for privacy and security. There are hundreds of different species to choose from, and whether you have a preference for holly or hawthorn, lilac or laurel, picking the right hedge plants can help to maximize greenery in your plot.

Some hedge plants, however, can be thuggish in nature, with vigorous growth rates proving challenging for gardeners. These aggressive and invasive hedge plants are best avoided when selecting what species to grow as they can quickly cause problems in the yard.

So, while you might already know about invasive trees and perennials to avoid, we have put together a list of five invasive hedge plants to watch out for. In addition, expert gardeners from North America have provided recommendations on what to grow instead.

Invasive hedge plants to avoid

Landscaping with hedges is far preferable to bare walls or bland fences. Indeed, using green hedging will soften and blur the boundary of your outside space. However, before deciding which hedge plants to grow, it is good to identify what species to avoid. Here are five invasive plants that should be kept out of your planting schemes.

1. Chinese privet

'One common hedge plant that can cause problems is the Chinese privet, otherwise known as Ligustrum sinense,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening.

Considered an evergreen tree never to grow, the Chinese privet is classified as invasive in many US states, including Alabama, Georgia, Pennsylvania and South Carolina.

'While the Chinese privet might seem appealing with its dense foliage, ideal for screening and privacy, it spreads aggressively,' Reese adds. 'Once established, it is difficult to get rid of it, with birds carrying its seeds far and wide.

'For a better option that is easier to manage, try yew, otherwise known as Taxus. They are much slower growing and far less likely to take over your garden.'

Yew hedges can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making for an ideal option in cooler regions. They prefer moist but well-drained soil, and are remarkably versatile in terms of light, tolerating full sun to full shade. Prune yew hedges in early spring, usually around March, and again in late summer, by September, to keep them looking sharp and under control.

Live yew plants are available from Walmart.

2. Bamboo

Many homeowners opt to grow bamboo to create a dense, evergreen hedge. While this is true, if you opt for a running bamboo variety, their rampant growth can quickly get out of hand. If left unchecked, bamboo rhizomes will create dense thickets of growth, choking out other nearby plants.

'Bamboo is beautiful but it often grows too fast to control,' says Reese. 'The speed of their growth is often staggering, with some species growing two or three feet in a single day! If you have an invasive bamboo in your yard, chances are it will quickly find its way to neighboring plots too, which might lead to difficult conversations over the garden fence.

'If you are really intent on growing bamboo, avoid running varieties and stick to dwarf clumping options,' Reese says. The ruscus bamboo, or Shibataea kumasaca, for example, can be grown in pots for a low hedge. This variety will only grow to four or five feet tall and is far less vigorous than most bamboo species.

While not a true bamboo, sacred bamboo, or Nandina domestica, is an alternative if you are looking for an evergreen hedge plant. I have grown this species in the UK and found it to be slow-growing and manageable, although this species is best avoided if you reside in the southeast United States, where it has invaded woodlands. Sacred bamboo does best in US hardiness zone 6 to zone 9, thriving in bright, sunny borders.

Nandina live plants are available from Amazon.

3. Russian olive

While the Russian olive, Elaeagnus angustifolia, is similar in appearance to the European olive tree, Olea europaea, they should not be confused. Although both trees might have attractive silver foliage, the Russian olive is considered an invasive species in many US states, including California.

'Elaeagnus angustifolia can quickly escape cultivation, thriving in poor soils along highways and disused yards,' Reese says. 'It is often used as a hedge because it is tough and drought-tolerant, thriving in sunny regions, but be warned, it is a pain to get rid of it, spreading via seeds and suckers.'

For a native plant alternative, try growing serviceberry or chokeberry trees in a row, which will eventually form a hedge that will prove to be a hit with local birds.

'For an evergreen hedge option, try the ‘Little Gem’ magnolia,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center. 'It can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus, with the dark green foliage complemented by large spring flowers. This evergreen will provide visual interest without the invasive tendencies of other hedge plants.'

'Little Gem' magnolia live starter plants are available from Amazon.

4. Cherry laurel

'Cherry laurel, or Prunus laurocerasus, is another problem plant to avoid,' Reese says. 'While this hedge plant might look lush and green, it grows incredibly fast, often producing two or three feet of growth in a single year.

'It might be a common sight in gardens across North America, but in my opinion, cherry laurel is an invasive hedge plant to keep out of your yard. What's more, it produces a lot of berries that can be toxic to pets, so if you have dogs or cats, steer clear of this species.'

If you are seeking a less vigorous evergreen hedge option, consider growing the Japanese yew, or Taxus cuspidata. This low-maintenance hedge plant is far less vigorous than cherry laurel but is just as tough and resilient.

Japanese yew can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making it an ideal option for northern states. For optimal growth, plant Japanese yew in a location that enjoys three or four hours of sunshine each day, and be sure to give it a hard prune in early spring to manage its height.

Japanese yew live plants are available from Amazon.

5. Buckthorn

Common buckthorn, Rhamnus cathartica, is an invasive species in many states across North America, including in Tennessee and Wisconsin. In addition, the sale of common buckthorn and glossy buckthorn was outlawed in Pennsylvania in 2022 due to its aggressive nature and ability to displace native species.

While the fruits of buckthorn are attractive to birds, this clever adaptation allows buckthorn seeds to disperse far and wide. So, while buckthorn might seem like an easy wildlife solution for a hedgerow, once established it will be difficult to get rid of.

For a native option, try growing one of the North American viburnum species, such as the southern arrowwood viburnum, Viburnum dentatum. Most viburnums are cold-hardy and can be grown down to zone 3. They do best in part shade with slightly moist soil. One variety with attractive fall berries is the American cranberry bush viburnum, Viburnum opulus var. americanum, available from Nature Hills.

FAQs

How do I remove a bamboo hedge?

Removing bamboo is challenging, but with persistence, it can be done. Prune your bamboo to the ground, disposing of all stems in your green waste. Then, dig up as many rhizomes as possible, which will likely be an ongoing battle over many months. This is a hard task and may require expert help from a landscaper, depending on the size and spread. If you are planting bamboo, be sure to use a bamboo root barrier, available from Walmart, to contain this vigorous plant.

Before adding any new perennials, bulbs or trees to your plot, it is always best to do your homework and find out what species are to be avoided in your region. Taking time to complete some research and speak to experts will ensure that your yard is free of problem plants.

For more information, see our guide on invasive climbers to keep out of your yard this year, as well as what vines you should grow instead.

The first thing to consider when you want to expand your houseplant collection is which plants will grow well in the conditions of your home. This includes everything from light to temperature, and even humidity levels.

Some tropical indoor plants thrive in higher humidity, reflective of their native environments. Often the most popular indoor plants come under this category, making it easy to fill humid spots in your home, like bathrooms. However, finding plants that will do well in less humid home environments can take a little more searching.

One way to be a better plant parent, though, is by choosing the right plant for the right place - meaning, you can still have a thriving indoor garden even with drier air by opting for houseplants for low humidity. Here, I've compiled some of the best plants that thrive in lower humidity environments, as recommended by plant experts.

5 plants for low humidity rooms

One of the most common indoor plant mistakes is forcing a plant to grow in an environment that doesn't suit it. This only ends in one way: the fatality of a struggling houseplant. The good news, however, is there is a houseplant for nearly every challenging growing environment - including lower humidity levels. Here are five to get you started:

1. Pothos

With so many pothos varieties to choose from, it's no wonder these beautiful variegated, indoor hanging plants are so popular. But it isn't just their appearance that makes them great houseplants, they also adapt well to lower humidity levels.

Although they are native to tropical and sub-tropical regions of Asia and prefer humidity levels between 40-60%, pothos plants are quite hardy and will tolerate lower levels, too. Of course, the type of pothos also determines this - Marble Queen Pothos and Pothos N'Joy are two of the more tolerant to low humidity levels.

'They also grow in low-to-moderate light,' notes horticulturalist Gail Pabst of the National Garden Bureau. 'Grow pothos in average room temperatures and you should be sure to allow the soil to dry moderately before watering,' she advises.

Something to note: too little humidity could turn your pothos yellow. That's why it's important to always research the specific requirements of the type of pothos you're growing.

2. Chinese evergreen

Not only are Chinese evergreens, or aglaonemas, low-maintenance indoor plants and indoor low light plants, they can also grow well as houseplants for low humidity.

In their native environment, Chinese evergreens grow low to the ground in Asian rainforests. While these are typically humid environments (and Chinese evergreens prefer humidity levels around 60-70%), they adapt well and continue to thrive in lower humidity.

Chinese evergreen varieties are loved for their bright, colorful foliage. While higher humidity isn't required to maintain this, other factors are important: 'To ensure that this plant retains its vibrant foliage, grow in medium light. Avoid too much bright light, which can cause leaf scorch,' advises Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

Watch out for humidity levels dropping too low, however, as this could cause your Chinese evergreen to turn yellow or have droopy leaves. You can always use this humidifier from Amazon to boost humidity levels if needed.

3. Succulents

A common misconception about succulents it that they love humidity. In actual fact, it's the opposite. After all, they do naturally grow in desert environments with dry air.

Too much humidity can cause succulents to turn yellow and feel mushy - the same result as incorrectly watering succulents:

'It is vital that you don’t provide succulents with too much moisture when growing them indoors. Doing so will quickly lead to houseplant root rot,' explains Julie. 'When in doubt about watering, wait another day or two,' she advises.

You can also use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify when your succulent soil has dried completely and is ready to water again.

The optimal humidity level for succulents varies from plant to plant, so it's always best to research the growing requirements of the one you wish to have in your home.

4. ZZ plant

ZZ plants are actually a type of succulent, and much like popular echeveria and aeonium succulents, they are also native to drier environments.

You'll find ZZ plants naturally growing in dry grasslands and forests of eastern Africa. Their optimal humidity level is between 40-60%, but they will tolerate lower - making them ideal as houseplants for low humidity rooms at home.

'This plant does extremely well in low light, dry conditions, and low humidity making them almost indestructible,' says Gail.

When caring for a ZZ plant, it's key to get watering right, as this is often what goes wrong for houseplant collectors. Just like in their dry, native environment, ZZ houseplants also need to grow in drier soil: 'Water when the top one or two inches of soil has dried out,' recommends Julie.

Overwatering and to much humidity will quickly turn your ZZ plant yellow.

5. Ponytail palm

If you're looking for a low humidity indoor tree, then there is no better choice than ponytail palm.

The luscious fountain of foliage of a ponytail palm doesn't require high humidity to maintain its appearance. In fact, these plants only need around 50% humidity, and can even adapt to as low as 30%.

This is explained by their native semi-desert environment in south-eastern Mexico, Belize, and Guatemala. Just like desert succulents, too much moisture can hinder the health and appearance of ponytail palm.

'This plant does not like to be overwatered. The bulbous base stores water so this plant tolerates dry conditions well,' Gail explains.

Along with a moisture meter, you can use this humidity meter from Amazon to keep an eye on moisture levels for your ponytail palm. If you find the room it is growing in is too humid, try moving it to a drier spot of your home.

You should, however, take care to provide your ponytail palm with sufficient bright light. Too little light may lead to drooping leaves and even stunted growth.

FAQs

Can you use a dehumidifier for plants?

While it's true you can use a dehumidifier to reduce humidity levels for the houseplants that do best with low humidity, it isn't always recommended. This is because dehumidifiers may significantly dry out the air and actually cause harm to your indoor plants. This is especially true if you're growing a mixture of humidity-loving plants and houseplants for low humidity in your home. An alternative way to reduce humidity for the plants is by increasing ventilation - for example, by opening windows regularly.

Other ways to support houseplants for low humidity include keeping your home well-ventilated, growing plants in well-draining soil, and providing space between them so they don't create a warm, microclimate among themselves.

On the other hand, if you find your plants are struggling with too little humidity, there are also plenty of ways to increase humidity for indoor plants. This includes using a pebble tray for plants, grouping plants together, and regularly misting plants.

Bidens, also known as tickseed, beggartick and Spanish needle is an easy-going Mexican-native plant that is bright and bold in color.

This low-maintenance plant is a member of the aster family and produces a prolific number of flowers, making it a joyful addition when planning your front yard or mulling over some fresh backyard ideas. In US hardiness zones 8-11 bidens will grow as a perennial, but in cooler zones it is usually grown as an annual.

Bidens grows best in rich, fertile soil and needs full sun. Traditionally, its daisy-like flowers come in shades of yellow and orange, but more modern varieties produce red, pink, gold and white blooms.

How to grow bidens

Bidens can be grown from seed or bought as young plants ready to go in the ground.

As well as adding joyous color to your yard, they are also excellent plants for pollinators, making them must-haves if you are hoping to attract butterflies and bees. And in case you were worrying, their common name ‘tickseed’ derives from the fact that their seeds look like these blood-sucking pests, not because they attract them!

Growing habits of bidens

Related to Coreopsis and asters, there are more than 200 varieties of bidens and tickseed growing all over the world, from Mexico to Europe, with attractive native strains in every US state except Wyoming.

They grow in US hardiness zones 8-11 and can flower from May right through to October. In colder regions they are best treated as an annual, though they are perennial in warmer areas and with the right conditions and care can live for several years.

Bidens grow up to 12in tall, though there are also trailing varieties such as ‘Golden Goddess’, which has an Award of Garden Merit from the UK's Royal Horticultural Society and looks beautiful flowing over the sides of summer hanging baskets and containers.

In the wild they are regarded as a nuisance because their sticky, hairy seeds tend to cling to clothes and pet fur, but this annoying habit has been bred out of commercial varieties.

Some of the most popular varieties include Bidens alba, which has white petals, and is available as seeds from Amazon, the flaming ‘Blazing Fire’, whose flowers have yellow hearts and red-pink petal edges.

Yellow varieties include 'Sunshine Superman', which can be bought as seeds from Walmart, and Bidens aurea, another variety that is available as seeds from Amazon.

One word of warning - some native varieties of bidens are invasive and need careful control.

Bidens pilosa is regarded as a weed in 40 countries, including Hawaii, Bidens cernua (also known as nodding beggartick) is a problem in Alaska, Bidens aristosa (Ozark Tickseed Sunflower) is seen as an invasive problem in Maryland, Delaware and Kentucky because it can crowd out native wetland plants and Bidens frondosa or devil’s beggartick is problematic in Alaska.

All have been spread to new areas when their seeds were transported on clothes or animal fleeces.

Care guide for bidens

Soil: Bidens will grow well in borders and in containers, as long as they have rich, improved soil or good quality potting soil for containers, either commercially bought or homemade, that drains well so they don’t get waterlogged. If your yard soil is on heavy clay, dig in some well-rotted compost or manure to open it up and improve its drainage. Doing this will also improve the quality and moisture-retaining abilities of thin, poor soils. Tickseed will grow in most soils but prefers acidic to neutral conditions.

Light: For the best results, grow bidens in full sun. Ideally ensure they have six hours a day, otherwise they tend to become thin and straggly as they struggle upwards in search of adequate light.

Watering: Although tickseed is pretty drought-resistant, plants will need deep watering on planting, then additional moisture each week, especially in very hot conditions. Try and water them before they start to wilt as plants use a lot of energy recovering from dehydration, often at the cost of overall performance and flowering.

Fertilizing: If you are growing bidens in borders, make sure the soil has been supplemented by well-rotted compost, manure or chicken manure pellets, like Espoma Organic Chicken Manure at Amazon, a few weeks before planting.

Container-grown bidens will do best in good quality potting soil, like Miracle Gro Potting Soil for Containers on Amazon and all plants, whether in the ground or planters will benefit from a fortnightly feeding with liquid tomato fertilizer such as Dynamire Mater Magic at Walmart to help them flower their best.

Pruning: Bidens need little regular attention, though giving them a trim with clean, sharp pruning shears will keep plants neat and shapely and also encourage more buds to form.

Toxicity: Bidens are not toxic to humans, animals or birds - in fact, they are one of the best plants for attracting hummingbirds to your yard.

FAQs

What can I grow with Bidens?

Bidens add a splash of brightness to any summer butterfly border or summer container and are an excellent companion to summer bedding such as petunias, verbena and calibrachoa. They also hold their own in prairie planting schemes alongside coneflower, native grasses, and fellow daisy-like varieties such as black-eyed susans.

How do I propagate Bidens?

There are three ways of propagating bidens: by taking cuttings, dividing mature plants every 3-4 years and by growing from seed, avoiding the most common seed-sowing mistakes, either bought or collected from your own plants.

Will bidens survive winters outside?

It depends where you live. In US hardiness zones 8-11 bidens will grow as a perennial, if mulched well as temperatures drop, losing its flowers in the fall but keeping its leaves year-round. In states where the temperature drops below 40F they are best treated as an annual, or potted up in the fall and moved into a frost-free greenhouse, porch or a cool room to sit out the winter before being planted out again when the threat of frost has passed.

Bidens will add some of the richest and easiest color to your yard. With the right care and placement, this cheerful plant should last for many years and provide a wonderful sight and a welcome stop-off for those all-important pollinators.

Love-lies-bleeding, or Amaranthus caudatus, is an impressive flowering plant that is well known for its cascading, unusual blooms. This annual is no shrinking violet and is sure to add a touch of drama and vibrancy to any space.

Native to South America, love-lies-bleeding thrives in sunny yards, tolerating high heat in the summer months. Whether you are a beginner gardener or a seasoned professional, learning how to grow love-lies-bleeding will ensure that your plot, whatever the shape or size, is full of color this year.

So, if you want to add height and texture to your borders, or perhaps you want to learn how to create a maximalist border full of impact, love-lies-bleeding comes highly recommended. Here, one plant expert from Wisconsin reveals everything you need to know about cultivating this unique plant.

How to grow love-lies-bleeding

Love-lies-bleeding is part of the Amaranthus plant group, made up of more than 50 annual and perennial species. Considered some of the best annual flowers to grow, love-lies-bleeding goes by many names, including tassel flower, velvet flower and pendant amaranth, which all do a wonderful job of describing this unique and showstopping plant.

Growing habits of love-lies-bleeding

'If you only grow one flower this year, make it love-lies-bleeding,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'Amaranthus caudatus is one of my favorites to grow, whether in the ground or used in a container, and the summertime blooms are a spectacle to behold.'

As with all flowering annuals, love-lies-bleeding will only last until the first frost in fall, so these plants are best thought of as temporary additions for spring and summer. For this reason, they can be grown from US hardiness zones 3 to 10, although in cooler zones the more sunshine you give them, the better.

'Love-lies-bleeding can grow up to four feet tall and about 2 feet wide,' Katie adds, 'so be sure to give your plants plenty of room. These fast-growing flowering annuals prefer full sun to part shade and moist but well-drained soil.

'Generally, love-lies-bleeding is grown from seed, which makes this an economical choice for gardeners seeking new flower bed ideas,' Katie says. 'To ensure enough time to grow and bloom, it is recommended to start the seeds indoors eight weeks before the last expected frost date, typically somewhere around February.

'Flowers should appear about 12 weeks after seeds are sown,' Katie advises. 'So, if sown at the proper time, this plant will bloom from June or July until the first frost, filling your yard with extremely unique, tassel-shaped blooms. What's more, love-lies-bleeding is also known to attract birds, bees and butterflies - what more could you want!'

Love-lies-bleeding seeds are available from Amazon.

Care guide for love-lies-bleeding

Soil: Love-lies-bleeding grows best in moist but well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. For best results, amend your soil by completing some mulching in the winter months before planting. While it prefers a slightly neutral to slightly acidic pH between 5.5 to 6.5, love-lies-bleeding is relatively adaptable and will grow in most locations.

Light: Full sun to partial shade is best for love-lies-bleeding. This flowering annual is a sun-loving plant, and the more sun it enjoys, the more blooms will be produced. Avoid positioning in shady borders.

Watering: While this plant is relatively drought-tolerant, love-lies-bleeding benefits from consistent watering during spring and summer. Deep watering once or twice a week, especially during sunny, dry months will help to keep the soil moist.

Fertilizing: Fertilizer is generally not needed for this annual and it can be grown even in poor soils. Mulching the flower bed in the winter months will help to create an ideal, nutritious environment.

Pruning: Deadhead faded flowers during the summer to encourage more flowers later in the season. If tall stems become floppy or snap, you can simply snip them down to a healthy joint. Leave the plant in the border for fall and winter interest, removing it entirely in the New Year.

Toxicity: Amaranthus caudatus is non-toxic to humans and pets, making it a safe choice for family gardens. Many parts of the plant, including its leaves and seeds, are edible.

FAQs

Can I grow love-lies-bleeding in pots?

Yes, you can grow this annual plant in pots, so long as you provide a large container with good drainage. Fill your container with a fertile, well-draining potting mix and position in a sunny location. Regular watering is essential during summer, and monthly feeding with a liquid fertilizer will ensure lush growth during June, July and August.

There are many wonderful varieties of love-lies-bleeding to grow, including 'Coral Fountain', which has beautiful blush pink blooms, or 'Dreadlocks', which has deep magenta tassels. Love-lies-bleeding seeds are available from Burpee.

For more flower garden inspiration, see our guide on how to grow cockscomb, for another unique plant to add to your yard this year.

The term ‘superfood’ is given to nutrient-rich plants that are thought to offer health or well-being benefits. Cultivating them can be good for body, mind, and soul and it can be simple to grow your own superfoods at home.

Superfoods can help keep us fit and healthy and even combat diseases. There are real positives to having them as part of our diet and having them on our doorstep to harvest from the vegetable garden not only helps to save money but also allows us to experience the joys of homegrown crops.

I have grown fruits, vegetables, and herbs as a professional kitchen gardener in the UK for many years. I grew and harvested produce for chefs and that includes a Michelin-star restaurant. All of the crops that feature among the easiest superfoods to grow at home are ones I have lots of experience sowing, maintaining, and harvesting.

Grow your own superfoods - 7 of the best

The following are some of the best and simplest superfoods to grow at home. It includes some of the benefits each offers and a few growing tips - from planting the vegetables to harvesting.

1. Beets

Beets are among the easiest vegetables to grow. They can reward you with a long season of flavorful and nutritious roots.

Beets, which come in red, purple, and yellow varieties, are rich in antioxidants, have anti-inflammatory properties, and are thought to help with heart health. The earthy roots also have lots of potassium, magnesium, iron, and vitamins C, A, and K.

To grow beets, sow directly into the soil once the risk of frost has passed. Sow seeds outdoors two inches apart - it is important to plant beets thinly as each beetroot seed you sow is actually a pod containing multiple seedlings. Keep the soil moist and thin the seedlings at least two inches apart.

Beets are ideal for succession planting every few weeks for a long harvesting season. The time to harvest beets is around 50-70 days after sowing once the beets are at least two inches in diameter.

2. Blueberries

Blueberries are beautiful plants and the fruits are super-tasty and highly nutritious. When you grow blueberries you can enjoy a long fruiting season of berries rich in vitamins and antioxidants. Blueberries help brain function, lower blood pressure, reduce the risk of heart disease, and promote healthy ageing.

You must plant blueberries in the right condition - they are easy to grow if they meet the plant’s needs. Blueberries want acidic soil, the soil type wants to be moist and have a pH of 5.5 or lower. If your soil doesn’t meet the requirements, grow blueberries in pots as plants are ideal for containers filled with ericaceous compost.

Regularly water plants with rainwater, as using tap water can raise the soil’s pH level. It is beneficial to prune blueberries to keep the bush as productive as possible and get the best harvest year after year. The fruits themselves ripen from midsummer onwards.

3. Broccoli

The green heads of broccoli are packed with goodness and beneficial properties. They are loaded with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Broccoli has a long list of helpful nutrients, which means the vegetable is thought to help with bone, digestive, and heart health.

You can grow broccoli in the ground, or raised beds and containers in small vegetable gardens. Young plants can be bought from nurseries or garden centers to plant broccoli in the kitchen garden, or seeds can be sown in spring. It is best to sow seeds indoors into large cells or individual pots and transplant seedlings once the risk of frost has passed.

Keep broccoli plants well-watered and net them to protect the brassicas from being attacked by pests or birds. Harvest broccoli from mid-summer onwards once the heads are full of tightly packed buds. After you cut the main head, leave the plants and lots of smaller side shoots should appear to harvest later.

Discover the range of broccoli seeds at Burpee

4. Jerusalem artichoke

It may not be one of the first crops that spring to mind when you say superfood, but Jerusalem artichokes are high in vitamins and minerals and rich in fiber.

They are potentially the easiest of the superfoods to grow at home as Jerusalem artichokes require little maintenance throughout the season - often it can be a case of planting them and leaving them to do their thing till harvest time.

Jerusalem artichokes, also known as sunchokes, are a member of the sunflower family and grown for the sweet and nutty underground tubers. Plant tubers into a sunny spot and well-draining soil in early spring when the ground is workable, putting each one three inches deep and giving it around 18 inches of space.

They are drought-tolerant vegetables but will benefit from being watered during dry periods to ensure the tubers swell. Plants need no extra feeding and take 120-150 days to go from planting to the time to harvest Jerusalem artichokes.

Wait until after a frost to harvest and carefully lift the tubers out of the ground with a garden fork. Search the soil around the plant to find any tubers that have come disconnected, as they will sprout again next year if left in the ground.

5. Kale

Kale has long been touted as a superfood, and for good reason. It is positively brimming with nutrients, vitamins, and antioxidants, including vitamins C and K. Kale is one of the most nutritious vegetables you can grow or eat. Its benefits include eye health, blood pressure, weight management, and heart health.

There are many different types of kale to grow, including various sizes, colors, and leaf shapes. One of my particular favorites is cavolo nero, also known as Tuscan kale or dinosaur kale, as its dark strap-shaped leaves are very ornamental, high-yielding, and delicious. It is a very hardy vegetable that can overwinter in a garden to give harvests of kale throughout the colder months.

Kale is simple to grow from seed. In spring, sow indoors in modules or individual pots and keep the container somewhere warm to germinate. Once the plants are large enough to handle, plant them outdoors in the vegetable garden. Like broccoli, keep kale netted during the growing season. You can grow kale in pots on a deck, patio, or balcony.

Water plants regularly during the summer and harvest kale once the leaves are large enough to use. Regularly harvest the older, outer leaves to allow the younger ones to develop and encourage the growth of new leaves for the longest cropping season.

6. Microgreens

Microgreens are tiny seedlings of vegetables and herbs. I grew a wide range of microgreens for chefs in a greenhouse, but you can grow microgreens at home on a sunny windowsill. It is a quick and easy way to get small harvests for salads or garnish, but the seedlings are packed with nutrients. They have the flavor of fully-grown plants yet microgreens often have much higher levels of vitamins and minerals than mature vegetables.

There is a wide range of microgreens to grow at home, including beets, radishes, pea shoots, arugula, and basil. Of those popular options, the easiest and best microgreens to grow in my experience are pea shoots - from which you can get multiple harvests - and radish.

Sow seeds thickly on the surface of a tray filled with compost and cover them with a fine layer of more soil or vermiculite. Place the tray somewhere bright and warm and keep the soil moist. Harvest the microgreens when they are around 1-2 inches tall.

See the full range of microgreen kits and supplies available at True Leaf Market, including a wide variety of microgreen seeds to grow at home.

7. Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes is a hugely popular pastime worldwide. From small cherry tomatoes to large beefsteak tomato varieties, tomatoes are a pleasure to grow and a great crop for new gardeners to get a first taste of growing their own.

As well as being enjoyable and popular, tomatoes are a superfood as the fruits are packed with vitamins and minerals. Tomatoes are rich in vitamins C and A and contain lycopene, which is thought to have great antioxidant properties to benefit your immune system, and heart health and even help prevent cancer.

Tomato plants can be grown indoors or outdoors as the crop loves sun and warmth to produce a great crop. The key to getting a great harvest of tomatoes is keeping them well-watered, regularly pruning tomato plants and fertilizing tomatoes with a liquid tomato feed every two weeks when they start flowering.

So that covers seven great superfoods to grow at home, however, the list does not end there. I cannot sign off without highlighting a few more fantastic superfoods to grow. I also recommend growing Swiss chard, cabbage, spinach, and strawberries if you are starting a vegetable garden and want to have as many superfoods as possible. They are all simple crops to grow and can provide tasty and nutritious harvests throughout the year.

Dating back thousands of years in China and Japan, the ancient art of bonsai has long captivated gardeners. Indeed, growing miniature trees in shallow dishes has never gone out of fashion, and today, this wonderful craft continues to impress and mesmerize.

Bonsai requires diligence and focus, but the payoff is undoubtedly worth it. Not only is the process calming and meditative, but bonsai trees will also elevate your outside space. After all, how many of your neighbors have a perfectly cared-for Japanese maple bonsai tree sitting atop the patio table? Many gardeners are deterred from bonsai growing, believing it to require expert skill and prodigious patience, and while this is true in part, certain species are well-suited for beginners.

So, if you want to know what the easiest bonsai trees for beginners are, you have come to the right place. Here, one expert grower from Mississippi reveals five resilient bonsai tree types that are responsive to regular snipping and shaping and will make for a perfect introduction to this ancient craft.

5 of the easiest bonsai trees for beginners

When considering how to care for a bonsai tree, it’s important to consider factors like your climate, US hardiness zone, and the specific requirements of each tree. Outdoor bonsai trees typically need more sunlight and are better adapted to natural weather patterns, although in summer their soil can easily dry out, and in winter their shallow dishes can quickly freeze. Here are five of the easiest bonsai trees to try growing this year, with suitable care instructions for each species.

1. Juniper

'Juniper is one of the most popular outdoor bonsai trees, especially for beginners,' says Brussel Martin, bonsai expert and owner of Brussel's Bonsai Nursery, based in Mississippi. 'Many may recognize it from the 1984 film, The Karate Kid, with Mr Miyagi calmly training and trimming his juniper bonsai tree.

'As an evergreen, juniper stays green year-round and requires minimal maintenance compared to other species,' Brussel adds. 'With proper watering, it can even handle cold temperatures with little protection.'

Junipers can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making for an ideal selection if you reside in a cooler region. As Brussel says, this tough species would require little protection, even in frosty winters, although bringing plants under cover during periods of heavy snowfall is a good idea.

For a native plant, why not learn how to grow creeping juniper, Juniperus horizontalis, as a bonsai tree? Low in form and often with contorted stems, this species can be easily shaped with regular trimming.

Juniper bonsai trees are available to order from Brussel's Bonsai Nursery via Amazon.

2. Japanese Maples

'Japanese maple trees are also beginner-friendly outdoor options,' Brussel says. 'While they do require slightly more maintenance than a juniper, with regular watering and consistent trimming throughout the year, learning how to grow Japanese maple bonsai trees isn't too challenging.'

Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8, and thrive in a part-sun-part-shade position. As Brussel says, regular watering is important for maples, as these woodland plants typically prefer moist but well-draining soil in their natural habitat.

Japanese maple bonsai trees are available to order from Amazon.

3. Bougainvillea

While not hardy, bougainvillea bonsai trees can be grown in warmer regions. This tender plant can be left outside down to US hardiness zone 9, so is better suited to southern states, including Texas, Florida and California.

Growing this floral vine in bonsai form is relatively easy, and surprisingly, bougainvillea responds very well to regular shaping and container culture. During the first two years, you want to focus on developing one main trunk, as you can see in the image above. While this does require patience, carefully pruning any low-side shoots or basal growth will help to encourage this habit.

Place your bougainvillea in a sunny location, watering every few days and feeding once a month during the growing season. While it might take a few years to achieve the bonsai look, it is certainly worth the wait.

Bougainvillea bonsai trees are available from Amazon.

4. Azaleas

You may already have azalea shrubs in your yard, and while these popular plants undeniably look good in borders, they also make for attractive bonsai trees. Brussel recommends azaleas as another beginner-friendly option, prized for their spectacular spring blooms which look just as good in miniature form.

In terms of how to grow azaleas, most species do best from US hardiness zone 6, enjoying a part sun position with moist but well-draining soil. In the wild, azaleas typically grow at the edge of woodlands in rich, fertile ground, so combining some organic matter with your compost is a good idea.

There are hundreds of different species to consider, but two popular bonsai options are the southern Indian azalea, Rhododendron indicum, and the Kyushu azalea, Rhododendron kiusianum.

Azalea bonsai tree kits are available to order from Amazon.

5. Chinese Elm

Brussel also recommends that beginners also consider growing Chinese elms as bonsai trees. Native to eastern Asia, including China, Japan and Vietnam, Chinese elms, or Ulmus parvifolia, are robust and forgiving deciduous trees, making them perfect for bonsai cultivation.

They can be grown down to zone 4 and are fast-growing trees, responding well to regular pruning. They will quickly produce a mass of dense, glossy foliage, looking particularly impressive when planted in a bonsai dish. Chinese elms are relatively tolerant of most conditions, but part sun part shade is optimal. In addition, consistent watering during summer will generate the best results.

Finally, if you are interested in fairy garden ideas, Chinese elm bonsai trees would help to create a small and enchanting corner in the yard. Chinese elm bonsai trees are available to order at Amazon.

FAQs

Can I grow bonsai trees indoors?

All of the above species are best suited to outdoor cultivation. If you try to grow a maple tree indoors, for example, you are doomed to failure. Instead, select species that can handle consistent heat and humidity. 'In my opinion, for indoor bonsai trees, stick to species like ficus or dwarf jade, both of which are the ideal choice for beginners and are well suited to the conditions of the home,' Brussel says.

The craft of bonsai does require consistent effort. Regular pruning, shaping and supporting your tiny trees is crucial. Be sure to invest in a pair of bonsai scissors, available from Walmart, which will certainly make this fiddly task easier.

For more information, see our guide on the art of bonsai, to learn how this ancient practice can boost mental wellbeing.

As an avid indoor gardener, I'm always looking for new ways to grow different plants in my home, and hydroponic gardening opens a world of possibilities for indoor growing. Many others are also enjoying this realization, as hydroponics now play an integral role in creating thriving indoor gardens.

Another reason an increasing number of indoor gardeners are choosing to incorporate hydroponic gardening in their homes is because it's a sustainable solution to growing crops, houseplants, and more, that uses less resources. Of course, it can also make for an attractive feature in our homes and is certainly a conversation-starter among guests.

Whether you're new to hydroponics or have been practicing it for some time, there's no arguing it can be hard to keep up with the everchanging technology behind it. With new ideas always emerging, it can also be hard to know which hydroponic ideas actually work. To help navigate this noise, I've done the research for you. Here, are the only hydroponic gardening trends I think are worth shouting about this year.

5 innovative hydroponic gardening trends

For 2025, hydroponic gardening trends reflect ideas of maximising space, sustainable DIY hydroponic gardens, and new innovation. It can be tricky to know where to look when so many fresh ideas arrive on scene, which is why I've narrowed the best hydroponic gardening trends down to five that I promise won't waste your time or money.

1. Vertical hydroponic gardens

Vertical gardening has become hugely popular in recent years, both as a solution for small gardens and for the aesthetic value it offers. Now, hydroponic gardens are also taking it on board.

There are plenty of ways to create a living wall and using a vertical hydroponic garden is a unique twist to add. It reflects some modern hydroponic technology used in agricultural farms, where hydroponic towers are often set up with luscious edible crops spilling out.

It isn't just for the sake of space-saving either, as vertical hydroponics are thought to use less water than horizontal gardens. This is partly thanks to the fact it's easier to recirculate excess water.

To create this at home, indoor growing expert and owner of Perfect Plants Nursery, Alex Kantor suggest repurposing PVC pipes - like these from Walmart. Drill some holes in the pipes to hold the plants' net pots and use a water pump (from Amazon) to circulate the water. Don't forget to add a container on each end to create a water reservoir.

Alternatively, there are tower hydroponic systems available online:

2. Hydroponic leafy crops

There are a wide range of uses for hydroponic gardens, but they are predominantly used to grow crops more sustainably and to have a bountiful indoor kitchen garden.

It's no surprise, therefore, that growing leafy crops hydroponically will remain popular this year, as these edible plants are particularly easy and quick to grow in water.

Think growing lettuce indoors, growing spinach, and growing kale, among others. Other edibles like indoor herb gardens are also likely to make the transition to being hydroponically grown, as well as growing microgreens indoors.

If you're keen to get started on an indoor hydroponic vegetable garden, Burpee have a range of vegetable seeds to choose from.

3. Mismatched hydroponic vessels

Perhaps the most basic and affordable form of a hydroponic garden: 'You can use a glass jar for just one plant,' says Annette Hird, vegetable growing expert at Easy Urban Gardens.

Many indoor gardeners try this method out when first experimenting with hydroponics, simply using water in a jar to root plants. Not only is it unlikely this easy method will disappear any time soon, 2025 is the year it's viewed as a beautiful feature for indoor gardens.

In particular, an eclectic collection of mismatched glass vessels will be taking center stage. Think random repurposed food jars and vintage thrifted glass vases paired together to create a effortlessly attractive display.

It's a fun Mason jar craft project to take on and a good solution to repurposing spare jars you may have accumulated over the years.

Top tip: 'You can paint the outside of the jar a dark color so that light can't get in. This will keep the solution clean and prevent algal growth,' Annette advises. 'Keep the base of the jar clear so you can monitor root growth and when the water needs topping up,' she adds.

4. Hydroponic houseplants

Hydroponic gardening trends meet houseplant trends this year with hydroponic houseplants.

Many plants don't rely on soil for plant nutrients - largely epiphytic types, like growing a monstera in water or growing orchids in water - making it possible to grow them in a hydroponic set-up.

To elevate the appearance of your hydroponic houseplants, choose clear vessels to show off their roots. You could even use this stylish fishbowl terrarium from Anthropologie.

Be aware not all plants can grow hydroponically, however, so it's always worth researching your specific plant's growing requirements before setting it up in a water culture home.

Another option is using hydroponics to propagate the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings. Using a propagation station - like this hanging one from Amazon - you can have temporary hydroponic plants as the cuttings root in water.

When growing houseplants hydroponically, take care to avoid hydroponic gardening mistakes by regularly changing out the water. 'Water should be changed frequently. Higher light levels necessitate frequent changes due to algae blooms,' explains horticulture expert and director of new product development at Terra Nova Nurseries, Chuck Pavlich. This will also help keep common houseplant pests and diseases at bay.

5. Fogponic gardening

This one technically isn't hydroponics, but it is a similar science inspired by hydroponic gardening - fogponics.

Fogponics is an evolution of aeroponics developed by NASA. It provides essential plant nutrients to plant roots via mist. Just like hydroponics, this uses less resources to grow plants and provides a cleaner gardening experience by growing plants and houseplants without soil.

The image above shows Plantaform's new fogponic Smart Indoor Garden, which is available at Amazon. All you have to do is add water and a nutrient solution which is then turned into mist to nourish the plants. Just like hydroponic systems, it also includes lighting features to support plant growth.

As new technology, there's no doubt we'll see more from fogponics in time to come, providing a new way for gardeners to maximise their space when growing indoors.

FAQs

How does hydroponic gardening work?

Hydroponic gardening refers to growing plants without soil. Instead, plants are cultivated in coco coir or rock wool and their roots are then submerged in water. In order for hydroponic gardening to be effective, the water does need to be nutrient-rich. For this reason, many hydroponic gardeners use hydroponic fertilizers (available at Amazon). Some hydroponic gardens also feature water pumps to circulate the water and keep it clean, as well as grow light to support plant growth.

These hydroponic gardening trends prove there's still so much scope for this gardening technology to develop. New ideas are bound to emerge for years to come. For now, try taking on one of these ideas to up your hydroponic gardening game.

Once you have decided which type of hydroponic garden to have in your home and which plants to grow hydroponically, make sure to familiarize yourself with this gardening practice to ensure success. Don't forget to also consider the pros and cons of hydroponic gardening before jumping in, as you may realise other gardening methods are much more suited to your gardening goals this year.

With January marking a new year full of new possibilities, many of us are spending this month setting some goals and manifesting what we want our 2025 to look like. Well, what if I told you there are a few particular lucky plants that might just be able to help you out?

Just like Feng Shui plants that bring positive energy to our homes, many believe there are a handful of special plants that can bring good luck to our yards. We already know that flowers have a long history of being symbolic of stages of life, emotions, and relationships, so it isn't surprising to learn some plants are also associated with luck.

Whether you have a long list of gardening goals to achieve this year or simply feel like you could do with some more positive energy around you, growing lucky plants could just be the thing you need to boost your optimism. Here, plant experts reveal some of the luckiest plants to grow in your yard, plus tips on how to grow them.

5 plants to grow in your yard for good luck

There are a few different factors determining whether a plant is considered lucky. It could be cultural meanings or just connotations that have developed over the years. Below, plant experts share what exactly makes each of these plants lucky, along with tips on growing them to successfully bring you good vibes for the year ahead.

1. Peonies

Peonies are a popular cottage garden flower, blooming from spring to summer with bright pink flowers. They're popular in floral arrangements and were even named Flower of the Year in 2024.

'With their lush blooms, peonies symbolize love and wealth,' explains flower expert Nicholas James.

They're also very easy to grow across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8, so you can be rewarded with the luck they bring with very little effort.

However, if you find your peonies aren't blooming, it indicates their growing conditions need adjusting. This includes providing direct sun, consistent moisture levels, and growing them in a well-draining soil type.

You might find you also need to support peonies with these plant stakes from Amazon to stop them flopping over as they grow taller.

2. Marigolds

Many gardeners grow marigolds for a number of reasons: they're a bright pop of orange for the yard, they're a pest-repellent plant, and they have a long flowering time from summer to fall.

It's these qualities that associate protection and positivity with marigolds. In fact, they are even symbolic of warding off evil spirits in some religions.

To grow marigolds successfully, they need plenty of sunlight. You can also grow marigolds in pots, where they appreciate a well-draining potting mix (from Amazon), so they're a good choice for lucky plants in a container garden.

The good news is marigolds can be grown widely across US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11. Just make sure to deadhead marigolds to encourage more displays of their lucky blooms in the same season.

'Some people have good luck (pun intended) with marigolds self-seeding and coming back the following year,' notes Ren Elizabeth, gardening expert from Eco-Friendly Homestead. 'This is more likely to happen in locations with more mild winters,' she adds.

3. Sunflowers

There are few flowers more joyful than sunflowers, which is why so many gardeners grow sunflowers each year. Plus, you can harvest sunflower seeds for culinary purposes and to plant again the following year.

'These cheerful blooms symbolize happiness, optimism, and longevity,' Nicholas explains.

Sunflowers are one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed and there are varieties to grow across US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11, so it's a lucky plant choice even novice gardeners will get along with.

They thrive in a full sun position, as their name indicates, and they shouldn't be left to dry out entirely. Use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify when the top inch of soil is dry, indicating your sunflower is ready to be watered again.

You can keep sunflowers blooming by deadheading perennial varieties with essential pruning tools - like these pruning shears from Amazon.

Why not bring the luck indoors with cut sunflowers? You can make cut sunflowers last longer by regularly changing out the water.

Something to note, however, is sunflowers aren't necessarily lucky for other plants in your yard: 'Sunflowers are known to be allelopathic - meaning that they might prevent other plants from germinating around them, or hinder their growth by releasing toxic chemicals,' explains Ren. Therefore, it's best to give your sunflowers plenty of room to grow in your yard away from vulnerable plants.

4. Yellow roses

For lovers of the best rose varieties, choose a yellow rose for a summer garden filled with good fortune.

'For centuries people have gifted one another yellow roses to wish them luck, so it only makes sense that growing a beautiful yellow rose bush in your yard could do the same for you,' says rose expert Tyler Francis.

Yellow is often a less thought of color when some gardeners choose roses, but its unique hue is exactly what makes it special. As Tyler notes, they have long been popular gifts when wishing loved ones good luck, as their bright color also symbolises cheerfulness and friendship.

Growing roses does take some skill. Generally speaking, they thrive in a sunny spot and should be protected from strong winds. But, more specific care will depend on the type of rose you choose to grow in your yard.

It's also key to avoid common rose growing mistakes and take care to water roses correctly to keep them blooming for longer. It can also be beneficial to fertilize your roses with this rose fertilizer from Amazon.

5. Lotus flowers

Something for gardeners with a garden pond in their yard, lotus is considered one of the luckiest pond plants to grow.

'The lotus blooming in the murky water represents wisdom and tenacity,' Nicholas says.

Additionally, in many cultures and religions, including Buddhism, a lotus is symbolic of purity, enlightenment, and the ability to rise above adversity, as it grows among even the muddiest of waters.

All of this meaning is why we also often use lotus symbol in Feng Shui in our homes.

It's quite straightforward to grow lotus from seed. It does best across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 11 and requires warm water for its seeds to germinate.

You'll need to soak the lotus seeds and lightly file them to expose the inner part of the seed, before placing them in a container of warm water and mud. As the lotus develops seedlings and they become bigger, transplant them into a larger container, continuously adding water as it grows.

FAQs

Is it considered bad luck if a lucky plant dies?

For many people, a dying lucky plant may indicate bad luck. There are many different cultural meanings and historical connotations tied to certain plants, which all come with a different understanding around what happens when that plant dies. However, many also consider it possible to revive luck by reviving the plant and providing optimal care going forward. For best results, always research the specific care needed for the lucky plants you're growing in your yard.

By planting even just one lucky plant, you may feel a more positive backyard environment. The most important thing to do is choose the plants that are right for your and right for growing in your local climate. You might also consider learning about Feng Shui mapping and apply it to your yard to better understand the energy in your outdoor environment when selecting lucky plants to grow.

Borders underneath large trees can be challenging to cultivate. Whether you have a large oak, poplar or chestnut tree in your yard, often the ground underneath can appear dull and bare, save for a few opportune seedlings or weeds.

However, some shrubs are well-suited to these conditions, preferring the dappled shade of a larger, established tree overhead. In hot summers, this canopy can protect shrubs, shielding them from the harsh rays of the July sun.

If you are looking for some of the best plants for under trees, these five shrubs will grow quite happily in challenging conditions. From the scented daphne to the evergreen Japanese holly, these shrubs for under trees will help you to make the most of your growing space.

Best shrubs for under trees

Most yards typically have one, two or several established trees. Or, maybe you have none, but there is a large established tree in the neighboring plot. Whatever your circumstances, trees can prove challenging for other plants, creating a dry, shaded region underneath their canopy. For this reason, growing shrubs for shade or part-shade that are adaptable and resilient is the best course of action. Here are five shrubs for under trees to fill your borders with greenery.

1. Viburnum

'There are approximately 170 viburnum varieties found growing across much of the Northern Hemisphere, with a wide range of beautiful options for gardeners,' says Alex Kantor, gardening expert and owner at Perfect Plants. 'They thrive in partial shade and prefer well-drained soil. While drought-tolerant, be sure to water consistently during the first year while the shrub settles into your yard.

'Most - if not all - viburnums are woodland plants, growing at the edge of forests and thriving in dappled, partial sunlight,' Alex says. 'They are prized for their beautiful and often fragrant flowers, and can be used as hedges, understory plants or specimen shrubs.'

One native option would be the maple-leafed viburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, which is found growing in woodlands from New Jersey down to North Carolina. This species can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and will tolerate dappled dry shade under the canopy of a large deciduous tree.

Another option would be Viburnum rhytidophyllum, or the leatherleaf viburnum, seen in the image above. This evergreen option has attractive oval leaves and dainty pink blooms in spring. Leatherleaf viburnum seeds are available to order from Amazon.

2. Azaleas

'Azaleas are well-suited for growing under large trees, especially in dappled or partial shade,' says Alex. 'They prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil and benefit from a layer of mulch to retain some moisture during summer.

'Choose the 'Red Ruffles' variety, available from Perfect Plants, for a smaller option with spectacular color,' Alex recommends. Alternatively try growing the yellow azalea, otherwise known as Rhododendron luteum, seen in the image above, which can be grown in shady beds down to US hardiness zone 5.

As a former professional gardener, I previously cared for three yellow azaleas that grew in a shady woodland border, and I can testify that these are some of the best shrubs for under trees in deep shade.

'In terms of how to grow azaleas, water them regularly, especially during dry spells,' says Alex, 'which will help them to establish in the first few years. Annual mulching will also help to feed the plant, and avoid any need for supplemental fertilizer.'

3. Daphne

Daphne is an ideal understory plant, thriving in a part-sun-part-shade position under large trees. They can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus, and in milder regions, will retain their foliage year-round.

'Daphne are spectacular but slow-growing shrubs, typically only growing around two to six inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

The most common form, winter daphne, otherwise known as Daphne odora, is a compact shrub producing attractive pink, star-like fragrant blooms in winter. For an unusual species that is well-suited for dry and deep shade, try Daphne laureola, producing small yellow-green flowers that will illuminate borders in challenging spots under large trees.

'The optimal time to plant daphne bushes is during the fall or early spring,' Mike adds. 'These periods allow the plant to establish its roots before facing extreme temperatures.'

Daphne live plants are available from Walmart.

4. Japanese holly

Japanese holly, or Ilex crenata, is considered one of the easiest evergreen shrubs to grow and can prove useful underneath large trees where conditions are tough. This slow-growing plant is similar to other topiary plants, including yew or box, in that it forms a dense spread of lush, green foliage.

Japanese holly is suitable for cooler regions and can be grown from zone 5 plus. What's more, it is also pest and problem-free, in stark contrast to box topiary. While you can shape them with regular pruning, you can leave them alone under large trees to form a loose, natural green covering. Dark berries will also help to add interest to your fall and winter garden.

Japanese holly live plants are available from Walmart.

5. Sweet box

If you are looking for some of the best fragrant evergreens, sweet box, or Sarcococca confusa, is one plant to consider. Native to Asia and the Himalayas, sweet box is a shade-tolerant understory plant, that can thrive in dry soil and deep shade. What's more, they are also considered some of the best ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion, helping to bind loose, dry soil in sloped sites.

When working as a gardener in London, I cared for several sweet box shrubs that had been planted underneath large deciduous London plane trees, Platanus × hispanica. I rarely paid the sweet box shrubs much attention and they proved to be tough and versatile plants.

In terms of how to grow sweet box, it does best from US hardiness zone 6 plus, positioned in deep shade or part shade. Water well during the first year, and annually apply a thick layer of mulch to help with moisture retention.

Sarcococca live starter plants are available from Walmart.

FAQs

How should I plant shrubs under trees?

Planting around the base of a tree can be a challenge. It is best to keep at least a few feet away from the trunk of the tree, and to dig smaller holes using a trowel or hori hori knife, to avoid disturbing the tree roots in any way. For this reason, it is best to use starter plants that will eventually grow into larger shrubs. While this requires a degree of patience, starting small will produce the best results.

Planting one or more of these shade-tolerant species under large trees will help cover the bare patches of soil in your yard. Always remember, right plant right place, and in this case, using woodland plants in the understory of your garden will help to maximize greenery in challenging borders.

For more garden inspiration, see our guide on the best trees for water absorption, to help reduce waterlogging and wet borders in your yard.

Orach has been grown as a crop for centuries, but for too long in modern times was simply viewed as an unwanted weed. However, things have changed and orach is experiencing a renaissance as more and more growers appreciate its versatility, beauty, and flavor.

It is still a long way from being a staple in many people’s vegetable garden ideas, but it has the potential to become even more popular as people discover it is an easy-to-grow, warm-weather alternative to the better-known spinach and Swiss chard.

Orach comes in white, green, purple, and red varieties and can be grown as a cut-and-come-again crop for flavorful and nutritious harvests. So let's look at how to grow orach, from planting to harvesting.

How to grow orach - a complete guide

Orach (Atriplex hortensis) goes by multiple names and spellings, including orache, garden orache, red orache, French spinach, and mountain spinach. It originated in Asia and has been cultivated for thousands of years as a leafy vegetable.

Why grow orach?

There are many reasons why more and more growers are choosing to add orach to their kitchen garden ideas nowadays. It was once just considered a weed, but more gardeners appreciate the beauty and versatility of orach.

Flavor-wise, orach has a mild and nutty flavor that is similar to spinach or Swiss chard - and all three plants are members of the amaranth family. However, while it tastes similar, there are advantages to cultivating orach over growing spinach or Swiss chard. Most notable is the fact orach does not bolt as quickly as spinach when the temperatures rise in summer and offers itself as a warm-season alternative to those other leafy crops.

Orach is a fast-growing vegetable that offers many different uses. As well as being a fantastic edimental plant - one that makes a striking ornamental and edible addition to flower beds - the leaves of orach can be eaten raw or cooked, while the seeds are also edible and can be ground for homemade flour. Another bonus is that orach seeds can make dye.

Finally on the long list of reasons to grow orach is that it can thrive in difficult growing conditions. Another of its many nicknames is ‘saltbush’ as the crop can tolerate high levels of salt, making it ideal for coastal gardens.

How to grow orach - care tips

Orach is hardy in US hardiness zones 4-8 and can grow in full sun or part shade. In warmer US hardiness zones it can be beneficial to plant it somewhere with protection from the hot afternoon sun. It can be grown in the ground, in containers, or in raised beds.

The crop wants rich and well-draining soil. Ashleigh Smith, managing editor of True Leaf Market, recommends giving the soil a little boost before planting. She says: ‘Before planting it is beneficial to mix in some compost or a balanced fertilizer.’

Regular watering is important as orach wants consistent moisture throughout the growing season. Although it is a drought-tolerant vegetable, the flavor diminishes if the plants lack moisture and it increases the risk of plants bolting in warmer temperatures.

Keep a close eye on when to water plants and always water the soil around the orach, rather than soaking the foliage. Mulching around plants with organic matter is a great way to retain moisture in the soil and suppress competition from weeds.

Soil supplemented with homemade compost or fertilizer before planting will have all the nutrients required for orach to get off to a great start. As for ongoing feeding, Ashleigh Smith advises: ‘Because orach isn’t a heavy feeder, only a light feeding is beneficial about every 4-6 weeks.’ Feed orach with a high-nitrogen fertilizer to encourage the strong growth of healthy foliage to harvest.

‘Orache can be harvested at the baby leaf or mature stages,’ adds Ashleigh. ‘Baby leaves are great in salads and are ready in just 30 days, while mature leaves take closer to 40-50 days.’

Regularly harvest leaves to encourage the production of new ones and pinch off any flower buds as they appear to concentrate the plant’s energy on producing young leaves. Given the right care, orach can be harvested from summer until the first frosts.

How to grow orach from seed

Sow orach seeds directly outdoors into their growing position once the risk of frosts has passed and the soil is workable.

Prepare the planting bed by removing weeds and raking to a fine tilth and sow seeds outdoors half an inch deep and two inches apart in rows spaced 18 inches apart. Water the seeds and keep the soil moist for good germination. Orach seeds will germinate quickly and want to be thinned to around six inches apart as they develop.

Orach seeds can be sown from spring to early summer and are ideal for succession planting. Regular small sowings throughout the planting window mean a continuous harvest of orach.

FAQs

Is orach hard to grow?

Orach is an easy vegetable to grow. The seeds germinate reliably and plants are simple to care for.

Is orach cut and come again?

Orach is a cut and come again crop and regular harvesting will encourage more sprouting and successional harvests. Cutting tender stems once they are 6-12 inches will result in branching and new stems and leaves to harvest. Just do not take too much at any one time to ensure the crop regenerates.

Is orach a hardy annual?

Orach is a hardy annual in US hardiness zone 4 to US hardiness zone 8. Orach is known to self-seed around the garden - so remove flowers or seed heads as they appear if you do not want more plants for years to come.

Should I pinch my orach?

Pinching the growing tips of orach stems above a node will encourage branching, dense growth, and the development of lots of new stems. Pinching off flower stems also focuses the plant’s energy on producing new flavorful leaves rather than flowers and seeds.

Can you eat orach raw?

Orach can be eaten raw or cooked. Young and tender leaves are best for eating raw and adding to salads.

It is great to see when historic crops experience a resurgence among growers in the modern age. Just as orach is increasing in popularity again, more people are growing oca. Oca is a root crop that has been grown for thousands of years in South America and the plants produce underground tubers that are vivid in color and used like potatoes.

I have grown oca in vegetable gardens over the years and reckon it is a crop worth adding to any kitchen garden. See our guide to how to grow oca and see if you are tempted to try growing this great vegetable.

When a storm hits your yard, it has the potential to cause devastating damage. You might be particularly concerned about the safety of your plants in such extreme weather conditions.

Luckily, there are lots of ways to prepare your yard for a storm, and getting ahead to prevent damage to plants is an essential step to take. Whether you have a container garden or carefully curated borders, there are plenty of things you can do to ensure your plants make it through a storm and recover once the harsh weather passes.

You don't need a wide range of tools to protect plants from a storm, either. Our quick and effective methods below will make all the difference in keeping your plants safe in a storm.

5 ways to protect plants from a storm

Failing to protect plants from a storm can result in damage that kills them off, as well as damage to planters and other objects in your yard. Not all damage is irreparable, but it can become expensive to do so. To reduce this risk, we recommend doing these five steps:

1. Move container plants indoors

The main thing you want to achieve when protecting plants from a storm is making sure everything is secure. This means if you have a container garden, you should move your potted plants into a sheltered position - like a garage or conservatory.

Much like overwintering a garden, this will protect your plants from exposure to stormy weather, as well as prevent strong winds knocking them over and breaking pots. Broken pieces of pots can be hurled into other plants, buildings, and other yard furnishings in the strong winds of a storm, risking further damage to your garden plants and yard.

'Not only are there strong winds and rain in a storm, but you may also be facing colder temperatures, depending on the time of year,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'For this reason, you should bring indoors any vulnerable plants as you would when overwintering tender plants,' she adds.

2. Clean up debris

Just like removing the risk of pots being thrown around in stormy winds, it's wise to remove other threats like debris that could crash into your yard plants and damage them.

Things like cuttings from pruning tree branches, wood piles, or even just loose objects should be picked up and disposed of or stored away securely. This takes away the risk of these items snapping and damaging plant stems and foliage.

This material doesn't have to go to waste, however, as brown materials can be perfect for making your own compost or making your own leaf mold. Just remember to take care to secure your compost bin in place during high winds.

3. Prune damaged plants

In a similar vein, damaged branches and stems can also pose a risk to the plants growing in your yard.

This is because they could be ripped off and hurled across your yard in stormy conditions. To prevent this, get ahead by inspecting woody trees and shrubs for any damaged material and cut back any long or low branches that could become hazardous.

Of course, take care to only use essential pruning tools when doing this (like these loppers from Amazon) and avoid tree pruning mistakes to maintain the health of your shrubs and trees.

4. Stake plants that can't be moved

With the moveable plants secured, you should also secure any plants that can't be moved to reduce their vulnerability in a storm.

'There are lots of plants that need staking when a threat of storm arises,' Rachel says. 'Focus on the plants that have long, unsupported stems which are likely to become damaged by heavy rain and strong winds,' she advises.

Stormy weather conditions can cause plant stems to snap, as well as cause a plant to experience wind rock - a condition caused by a plant rocking in the wind, destabilizing them and damaging their roots in the process.

'You can stake your plants with a range of materials, from a trellis to a commercial plant stake (available at Amazon). Use plastic cable ties to secure plant stems in place, as this is the strongest material,' Rachel says.

You might also wish to put a cover over your plants to protect foliage and flowers - these frost covers from Walmart would work well. If doing so, ensure the cover is secured effectively to the ground.

5. Plant hedges for wind protection

While bringing potted plants indoors and securing others outdoors will do the majority of the work in protecting plants from a storm, you can take extra measures to reduce the impact of strong winds and heavy rain.

Planting some of the best hedging plants, for example, can create a protective barrier. By choosing shrubs and hedges that are tall and dense, you can put in a place a wind-breaker around your more precious border plants.

The bonus of this is there are so many ways to landscape with hedges, so you can plant them both for permanent protection and to add beauty to your yard if you live in an area prone to storms.

Just take care to ensure the hedges you choose grow well in your US hardiness zone and read up on how to plant a hedge correctly to ensure they grow reliably in your yard.

FAQs

How do you protect plants from a snow storm?

When protecting plants from a snow storm, you need to take action to protect plants from frost and snow. Be aware this looks different for different plants, depending on their hardiness and how heavy the snowfall is. It's a good idea to remove snow from some plants, while others can be left alone. A good place to start is covering and moving your most vulnerable, tender plants that are likely to be killed off by frost or squashed by the weight of snow.

For the best chance of protecting plants from a storm, you should of course do these things ahead of a storm arriving. However, sometimes storms can catch us by surprise and you may be left with some damage to plants and your yard. Don't worry, though, there are also lots of things you can do to repair your yard after a storm.

Are you looking for a bright and cheery easy-to-grow perennial to fill a shadier spot in your garden? Then it might be worth learning how to grow lungwort - as they tick those boxes and many more.

Lungwort, commonly known as pulmonaria, is a low-maintenance herbaceous perennial that can bring attractive foliage and colorful blooms in early to mid-spring. The flowers offer valuable food for bees and butterflies early in the season.

Lungwort is one of the best shade plants for filling tricky spots in the backyard, such as under trees and shrubs. Learning how to grow lungwort is not difficult and, once the plant is established, it can be fuss-free and provide a delightful show of blooms year after year.

How to grow lungwort

Lungwort is a woodland plant in the Boriginaceae family native to Europe and Asia. It grows rosettes of attractive leaves with white or silver speckles, topped with spring flowers that can be blue, pink, white, or red and hang on upright stems. Historically, lungwort was used to treat lung infections—hence its name—but it is now grown as a popular low-maintenance ground cover plant.

Growing habits of lungwort

Lungwort is a clump-forming low-growing perennial plant, often reaching no more than 12-18 inches tall and wide. It offers a wealth of interest, such as the small, delicate bell-like flowers that impress through spring and summer and the attractive and unusual speckled leaves, that make lungwort an attractive ground cover plant.

‘Lungwort is a hardy flowering ground cover that I have grown in many gardens across the UK,’ says Thom Rutter, a former professional gardener and content editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘Valued for its cold tolerance, most Pulmonaria spp. can be grown down to US hardiness zone 3, making it an ideal pick for those who reside in cooler, northerly regions.’

Lungwort can be added to flower beds and borders as specimen plants or, as mentioned earlier, used as ground cover plants to add a splash of color to trickier shadier spots in the backyard. You can also grow lungwort in pots as part of a container garden.

How to grow and care for lungwort

• Soil - Lungwort will thrive planted in rich, moist, and well-draining soil. It likes lots of organic matter and a soil pH of 7-8. Drainage is vital and you may need to amend heavier soil types as lungwort does not like wet soil. Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens, says that plants suffer from root rot from sitting in sodden soil for too long. ‘Lungwort will always struggle with poor drainage and wet ground,’ warns Rachel. ‘To avoid this, add lots of organic matter, ideally compost, before planting. This will improve the soil structure, enhance drainage, and offer vital nutrients to the plants’.
• Light - Lungwort is a great shade plant, it actively prefers growing in part-shade to full-shade spots. It can grow in the sun but prefers to be sheltered from the afternoon rays. Too much sun can scorch the leaves and cause plants to dry out. Lungwort’s preference for shadier spots makes it suitable for what can be trickier spots to plant. As Thom Rutter says: ‘If you are looking for a shade-tolerant ground cover plant, to either line a path or grow under an established shrub or tree, lungwort could be a good option for you.’
• Watering - Lungwort prefers consistently moist soil, however, when established they are relatively drought-tolerant perennials - though flowering may be affected by a lack of moisture. It is better to keep a close eye on when to water plants and give them a deep watering during dry spells. Water when the soil is dry, use your fingers or a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, to check the levels a few inches under the surface, and avoid overwatering plants as they will not like sitting in overly wet soil for long periods.
• Fertilizing - Lungwort does not need lots of fertilizer, especially if you have fertile soil. Thom Rutter highlights the best way to feed lungwort each year, he says: ‘Be sure to condition the soil with mulch every year, as these plants prefer moderately fertile and moist earth to thrive.’ If you have poor soil and want to give extra nutrients to plants, you can give them a light application of balanced fertilizer in spring, such as this 10-10-10 all-purpose fertilizer at Amazon.
• Pruning - Simply remove flower stalks once the lungwort has finished flowering. This keeps the plant looking its best and allows new growth to show through. Remove any old and damaged leaves as required throughout the season.
• Toxicity - Lungwort is not toxic to humans but the leaves, stems, and blooms are toxic to cats and dogs.

FAQs

Can you grow lungwort from seed?

Most lungwort cultivars are hybrids and will not replicate their parent plants when grown from seed. Although lungwort may self-seed around the yard, it might not replicate the parent plant. Therefore, the best way to grow more lungwort is to divide plants in fall or spring. Dig up a clump and divide it into sections with a sharp knife that can be replanted directly into a new spot.

Is lungwort invasive?

Lungwort will gradually spread, but it is not invasive. They are slow-growing ground cover plants and not regarded as rampant spreaders.

Lungwort is just one of many fantastic ground cover plants that can cover areas of the garden that may otherwise be bare. It is never advised to have bare soil, it looks unappealing, is detrimental to soil health, and can result in weeds taking over an area. Why not use evergreen ground cover plants to make the area look nicer, prevent weeds, and offer food to pollinators and beneficial insects?

Noticed the telltale signs of cats visiting your yard – scratched-up flowerbeds, unpleasant odors, and trampled plants? If stray or neighborhood cats are trespassing on your property, damaging your beloved garden, and leaving behind an unwelcome mess, it’s time to explore effective and humane solutions.

Cats have a powerful sense of smell, so anything with a strong scent will deter them from approaching your yard. For a natural, eco-friendly, humane solution, consider planting cat-repellent plants. These pest-repellent plants not only add beauty to your garden but also deter stray cats with scents and textures they dislike.

We spoke to experts who shared the best cat-repellent plants, along with tips on how to care for and position them effectively, protecting your yard and maintaining a cat-free outdoor space.

1. Lavender

While lavender's scent is delightful to us, cats can't stand it. Caleb Young, at Rare Indoor Plants explains: 'Lavender contains a chemical called linalool, which gives it a strong scent that irritates cats' sensitive noses. That’s why it’s a great choice for keeping them away from areas like vegetable gardens.'

Best placement: Lavender loves sunlight, so choose a spot with plenty of natural light, like a sunny plant bed or a bright windowsill.

Lavender is also a great plant for pollinators, so consider placing it where it can double as a cat repellent and a magnet for bees and butterflies in your garden.

Care tips: 'Lavender grows best in well-drained soil and full sunlight,' says Nikki Bruner, the plant expert at Perfect Plants Nursery. 'It is drought-tolerant once established, so be cautious not to overwater.' Before watering lavender, check the soil has dried out fully by sticking your finger about an inch into the soil. If it feels dry to the touch at this depth, it's time to water. If it still feels moist, wait a few more days before checking again.

Regular trimming is essential to keep the best lavender varieties compact and maintain its fragrant aroma. Nikki adds: 'Pruning after blooming can help maintain the plant's shape and health.'

2. Scaredy Cat

Coleus canina, commonly known as the scaredy-cat plant, faithful to its name, is primarily used to keep cats and other animals away from gardens. Its strong, pungent scent acts as a natural pest control for your yard.

Best placement: They require full sun to thrive, so choose a bright, sunny location for optimal growth.

Tammy Sons, an experienced horticulturist and founder of TN Nursery recommends; 'It should be placed in borders or in pots near where cats tend to frequent,' such as vegetable beds or flower patches you want to protect. Keep in mind that the plant's strong odor can be unpleasant for people as well, so it's best to avoid planting it near seating areas.

Care tips: Coleus canina prefers well-drained soil and consistent warmth. It’s a hardy, low-maintenance plant, but you should be careful not to overwater it – allow the soil to dry out between waterings to prevent root rot.

Consider using a moisture meter, such as this BN-LINK soil meter from Walmart, to check the soil's moisture levels, ensuring it's dry enough before watering again.

3. Rosemary

Rosemary is an excellent deterrent for cats, as not only do they loathe the strong piney scent, but the sharp, intense herbal aroma keeps them away.

Best placement: 'Rosemary needs plenty of sun, so make sure it gets at least 6 hours of sunlight a day,' says Caleb Young. 'A sunny windowsill or patio is perfect for it.'

Care tips: Rosemary is a drought-tolerant plant, making it an excellent choice for low-maintenance gardens. To keep it healthy, allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Planting rosemary in well-draining soil, such as sandy or loamy soil, will help prevent excess moisture from accumulating around the roots. We recommend this Miracle-Gro potting mix from Amazon. If you're growing it in a pot, make sure the container has drainage holes, such as this pot planter from Wayfair.

Pruning rosemary regularly will encourage bushy, compact growth and keep the plant from becoming leggy.

4. Curry Plant

'The curry plant emits a strong, spicy scent that cats find unbearable,' says Caleb Young. 'Its aroma closely resembles curry powder, which is particularly intense for their sensitive noses. That powerful fragrance is more than enough to keep them at bay, no matter where you place it.' Also, the curry plant has a coarse texture that cats tend to dislike.

Best placement: Curry plants thrive in full sun, so be sure to place them in a bright, sunny spot – whether in a raised bed or a well-lit garden corner. Since the curry herb plant releases a strong odor when brushed against, consider planting it near entry points – such as holes in your fence or near gateways to your yard – or areas to discourage cats from venturing.

However, be cautious with this plant. Since it’s technically considered a weed it should be planted sparingly in your garden to prevent it from spreading uncontrollably.

Care tips: The curry plant is relatively low-maintenance once established. Water it sparingly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings. 'Once settled in, it's drought-tolerant and doesn’t require much care, making it an easy plant to maintain while keeping your garden cat-free,' explains Caleb Young.

5. Lemon trees

Cats aren’t fans of citrus, and lemon trees are full of oils like limonene and citral that they find unpleasant. The intense lemon scent is enough to make them keep their distance, discouraging cats from jumping down or climbing up to areas where they’re not welcome.

Best placement: One of the best fragrant trees, lemon trees need plenty of sunlight, so where they can receive direct sun for at least 8 hours a day.

Consider planting the lemon tree in a raised bed or a larger pot. This allows it to be higher than other plants, making it an excellent guard for elevated areas that cats might use to get into your garden, such as fences or raised platforms.

Care tips: To keep your lemon tree healthy, ensure the soil drains well to prevent overwatering. They prefer slightly acidic, well-draining soil, such as this organic lemon tree soil from Amazon. You can also use a citrus fertilizer from Amazon to promote healthy growth and fruit production, which in turn enhances the strong scent that cats find repellent.

Lemon trees also enjoy a bit of humidity, so occasionally misting it using a spray bottle with water can help, especially in dry conditions.

6. Rue

Rue, or Ruta graveolens, has a very strong, spicy scent that cats can’t stand. Not only does this potent fragrance keep cats at a distance, but it also serves as a natural pest repellent.

Best placement: Rue thrives in full sun, so make sure to place it in a spot where it can receive at least six hours of sunlight each day.

Tammy Sons suggests: 'This plant should be placed along edges or mixed into flower beds, where its scent can act as a boundary to keep cats away from your more vulnerable plants.' The bitterness of the plant also makes it an excellent choice for deterring cats from chewing on it, encouraging them to stay away from the area altogether.

However, be mindful that rue is toxic if ingested, so it’s crucial to avoid planting it in spaces where pets or young children may come into contact with it.

Care tips: Rue is fairly low-maintenance but does have some specific needs. Avoid overwatering. Rue prefers to dry out between waterings. Rue also prefers well-draining soil, and it’s a good idea to plant it in a spot that ensures excess water can escape easily.

Remember to regularly check the plant for pests, as its strong scent may also attract unwanted insects.

7. Lemongrass

Just as cats hate lemon trees because of their citrusy scent, they will also be deterred by lemongrass.

Best placement: Plant your lemongrass in a sunny spot where it can receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day to ensure healthy growth.

By positioning lemongrass strategically, such as along garden borders or near entry points, its strong scent can create an effective barrier, keeping cats at bay and protecting more delicate plants and vulnerable spots in your garden, making it a useful and fragrant companion plant.

Care tips: Gardening expert Nikki Bruner says: 'Lemongrass thrives in full sun and well-draining soil. Since it is native to tropical regions, it prefers warm temperatures and consistent moisture, but be sure not to overwater it.' It’s important to keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the hotter months, but avoid letting it become waterlogged.

'Regular pruning can help promote new growth and keep the plant healthy,' adds Nikki. This will also help maintain its compact shape and prevent it from becoming too unruly.

FAQs

What other scents do cats hate?

Other common scents that cats find repellent include:

• Lemon thyme
• Pennyroyal
• Catnip
• Coffee
• Oregano
• Eucalyptus
• Peppermint
• Cinnamon
• Garlic and onion
• Cedarwood

Using these scents in combination with plants that naturally release them or essential oils can help keep cats out of your yard. Note, too, which plants are toxic to cats, because while you may want to discourage neighbors' cats, you won't want to harm them.

When using plants to repel cats, the strength of their scent is key to their success as a deterrent. If the plant isn't healthy and thriving, the fragrance may not be potent enough to keep cats away. Regular care and maintenance of these plants will help maintain their effectiveness.

As Tammy Sons advises: 'Some extra tips would be to keep these plants healthy because if their scent is not robust, cats will not be easily deterred. If the problem continues, add more of these plants.'

Winter weather can be harsh for so many reasons, causing our outdoor plants to experience cell-freeze, cracking containers, and an array of other ailments.

But wrapping the pots of our outdoor plants in a insulating layer can make all the difference, protecting container plants from the full brunt of the winter cold and preventing your plant's soil from repeatedly freezing.

To correctly wrap up your potted plants for winter, you will only need a few materials, as well as this advice we gathered from plant experts. If you follow this guide as a part of overwintering a garden, your outdoor potted greenery will have the best chance of survival.

1. Choose the right material

The first thing you need to do when wrapping up potted plants for winter is take time to choose the correct material for the job.

It may not seem important at first as surely any form of insulation in the winter is better than none, but unless you're growing frost-hardy perennials, the material you choose actually matters a lot, with the wrong choices encouraging mold or inadequate heat retention around your plant.

Ofra Gaito, CEO of plant company Verdant Lyfe, says, 'To maintain warmth and prevent mold buildup, you'll need materials that insulate while also ensuring proper air circulation. Some typical materials are:

1. Burlap as it's a breathable fabric that protects against wind and frost.
2. Bubble wrap provides insulation but is not breathable, so it should be used with caution.
3. Fleece plant covers or garden fabric designed to protect plants from cold without restricting airflow.
4. Recycled plastic or plastic tarps can be used to protect against moisture and frost, but be careful not to cover the plant completely as it'll leave it without ventilation.'

From Ofra's recommendations, using burlap or garden fabric specifically designed for wrapping outdoor plant pots are the safest choices. The 40" x 30" feet gardening burlap roll from Amazon and the OAHAO horticultural fleece plant covers, also from Amazon are both great for the job.

2. Prep your potted plant

Next, it's important to prepare your plant and plant's pot to be wrapped. Wiping down the pot's surface to free it from debris, frost or snow, giving the plant a good water and placing the planter on an elevated surface are the three pillars to successful preparation when you're not overwintering plants indoors.

'Taking your container garden plant pots off of the ground by lifting it onto wooden blocks, bricks or a pot stand will help to protect the plant's roots from freezing as they won't be in direct contact with the cold soil,' says Ofra. 'Giving your plant a good watering at this stage, too, is beneficial as damp soil retains warmth more effectively, helping to shield the roots from the cold.'

Be mindful not to overwater your plant though, as this can lead to root rot. Using a gadget like the XLUX soil moisture meter from Amazon will always inform you when your plant is adequately hydrated.

3. Measure your wrapping material

Now your potted plant is ready to be wrapped. It may be tempting to add layer upon layer of insulation, especially if your plant isn't one of the best winter plants for pots, but less is actually more when it comes to keeping your plant safe over the winter.

Paul LeBlanc, owner of Bloomist, says, 'Overwrapping is a common misstep that can trap moisture, leading to mold or rot, especially if the fabrics used aren't breathable.'

Take your roll of fabric or frost cloth and wrap it around your plant enough that it goes exactly around the pot's circumference once, plus a few extra inches so the edges overlap well. Then, remove the fabric to cut off using a pair of fabric cutting scissors like the fiskars 8" adult titanium scissors from Walmart. If it helps, you can mark where you need to cut your fabric using a piece of chalk. If your length of fabric doesn't cover the entire height of your outdoor plant pot, cut another measure of fabric that will cover the gap.

Once you have these pieces, cut one more piece to go over the bottom of your plant's pot. The easiest way to do this is to sit your plant pot on your fabric and cut around a shape with six or more inches added onto the circumference (for instance, a large circle). This extra fabric is what will be used to secure the insulation to your plant pot.

4. Secure your wrapping material

Lastly, you can secure your fabric pieces around your outdoor pots to protect plants from frost and, for extra insulation, pack a layer of mulch such as wood chips around the base of the pot. There are many different ways to secure your wrapping and mulch safely, but whichever method you use, remember it must be strong enough to withstand snow and wind.

'Wind can quickly unravel even the best wrapping job,' says Paul. 'Anchor the materials with twine, clips, or a decorative cord, so they’re snug but not overly tight, which could restrict airflow.'

I like this pack of gardening twine available on Amazon as it brings a pop of color into this project without straying too far from nature's hues. It's also available in white. The Binckin small bungee cords, also from Amazon, are ideal if you're wrapping lots of plants.

If you're struggling to secure your wrapping fabric alone, we recommend asking for help so one person can hold the wrap in place and the other can tie twine or cords around the material to keep everything in place.

Ofra recommends where possible keeping your pot's drainage holes free as well, or using a pair of scissors to open them up to prevent soil from becoming waterlogged.

Winter doesn't have to be a time of scarcity in your garden, as there are many plants out there perfectly suited towards winter garden ideas. For instance, these 7 frost-hardy plants will put on a show even through cold winters.

Our yards may be in their dormancy, but that’s no reason to stop planning and dreaming about the changes and improvements we all would love to see in our gardens this year.

Whether it’s a large-scale landscaping project, installing a greenhouse, learning how to propagate your houseplants, or mastering the skills to keep container plants happy, setting some gardening goals is an effective way to stay focused and intentional about what you want to achieve in the garden in 2025.

With that in mind, the H&G gardening editors have shared their own personal New Year’s gardening resolutions, which we hope will inspire you to think about what you could do, grow and create in your own yards.

Growing heritage and unusual plants

Heritage and heirloom seeds are becoming more and more popular among gardeners of all abilities. Not only do they preserve local history, plants are often more disease resistant, and heritage vegetable crops tend to give a much deeper flavor and have a greater variation in color.

Our gardens content editor Thomas Rutter is one of many who is intrigued about cultivating more of these unusual plant varieties. ‘This year, I want to continue learning about and growing unusual plants. Ever since I completed my horticultural traineeship in London, I have enjoyed finding new species to try my hand at,’ he says.

‘Whether learning about heritage tulip bulbs that have a long history going back hundreds of years, or reading up on rare fruiting trees that produce unusual crops, growing something different will keep your garden full of interest.

‘For many years, I have also been mildly obsessed with unusual mint varieties, growing pineapple, orange and chocolate peppermint in previous summers. In 2025, I intend to try growing the mojito mint variety, (you can find live plants available from Burpee), which should add a flavorful twist to my summer cocktails.'

Growing vegetables and fruit in containers

Container gardening is ideal for those with smaller outside spaces, and anyone living in a short-term rental. After having success with this method last year, Drew Swainston, grow-your-own expert and content editor at H&G, has decided to try growing even more crops in this way - and trialling a few unusual ones, too.

‘In 2024 I grew Jerusalem artichokes and oca in grow bags on a patio - with good success. It was a very satisfying experience, so I am keen to experiment further to see what uncommon crops, perennial vegetables, and fruits grow well in containers or grow bags,’ says Drew.

‘With space at a premium for most gardeners, growing crops in containers allows homegrown harvests even in smaller outdoor areas - including on decks or balconies.

'If perennial vegetables and fruit bushes thrive in a container, given the right care you can get years of harvests from one pot. I have had a dwarf raspberry in a pot for many years, but do want to extend my collection of container fruit.’

Making use of vertical space to grow houseplants

The houseplant trend phenomenon is set to be even bigger in 2025, if that’s even possible. And our resident houseplant expert and news writer, Tenielle Jordison, has grand plans for her collection.

‘A houseplant resolution I have for this year is to make more use of vertical space,’ she says. ‘Indoor gardens don’t have to be as basic as placing a plant on a windowsill. There are so many ways to get creative with houseplants and achieve interiors overflowing with luscious greenery.

‘I’m planning to use hanging propagation stations and shelving units to elevate my indoor plant displays, too.’

Planting a Mediterranean-inspired container garden

Tenielle is also moving into a new rental in 2025, and plans to make a start on a Mediterranean-inspired container garden as soon as she arrives.

'Think lots of herbs for fragrance and drought-tolerant trees for pots that can cope with the hot weather of summer months,' she says. 'I’ll also be opting for terracotta and earth-toned stone pots to bring it all together.

'As well as having aesthetic value, much of this style of planting helps futureproof our yards for the changing climate.'

Cultivating an indoor edible garden

When it comes to indoor gardening, innovations in hydroponic gardening systems and grow lamps mean so many more city dwellers, and even those of us without any outdoor space, can grow their own.

Alex David, H&G's head of ecommerce and gardens product expert, is going to focus his efforts on his indoor herb garden this year.

'My gardening new years resolution is to take my edible plants more seriously,' he says. 'I have lots of easy-to-grow kitchen plants like basil, thyme, and rosemary, but because they're simple to grow I focus on other projects and neglect to take care of them.

'It's made for some slightly bitter basil leaves in my pasta sauces, so this year I'm going to keep on top of all my kitchen herbs, by learning more about the best way to water and prune them, and how much sunlight they need to thrive.'

Creating curves in a rectangular backyard

When it comes to my own sprawling garden, there is a huge amount of work that needs doing. But this is going to take years, so it's useful for me to chunk up my backyard vision into a couple of achievable areas.

The shape of my backyard is largely rectangular. It's bordered by dense, high beech hedging with a path to one side, and a beautiful patio area at the back of my home. It is, however, far too geometric for my liking. I need curves and movement in my outside space, so this year I am planning to ditch the straight edges and create curved beds which merge into my lawn, creating shape and flow. I want to fill these beds with giant alliums and ethereal grasses such as miscanthus sinesis 'krater' and carex 'ice dance'.

I'm going to soften the patio edges with round planters and trailing vines, and I'm even going to extend this idea to some new seating, opting for a curved bench at the base of a mature birch tree, and a large, strategically placed bolder as a place to rest half way down the garden and enjoy the rockery.

Making my own compost

I am also determined to get my own compost heap going in 2025. When we moved into this house two years ago I discovered several compost bins at the end of the yard. These are in good condition, and one hasn't ever been used, so I have no excuses.

I'm using no dig champion Charles Dowding's book, Compost, available from Amazon to learn more about how to start a compost heap, and how to maintain compost to make the most of my household waste. It'll take a bit of time, but hopefully by the end of the year I'll have been able to dig some home-made nutrients back into the soil.

If you're still not sure that your gardening resolutions are going to be for 2025, you might find more inspiration by reading about the latest gardening trends, which industry leaders have tipped as being huge this year and beyond.

With terrariums, there are two choices. Either leave the terrarium open to the elements or close it up with a stopper.

If you aren't a botanist, it isn't immediately obvious why you'd choose one terrarium technique over another.

I spoke to a plant expert about the differences between the two styles of terrariums, the benefits and drawbacks of each, and which rooms are best suited for the different terrariums.

What's the difference?

You have two options when it comes to terrariums: closed or open. It's a simple difference but it has a big impact on your plants. Closed terrariums have a lid or stopper. They are either mostly closed to outside air and opened to add water or are permanently sealed to create a self-sustaining climate within the bottle.

Open terrariums, however, are the opposite - they're permanently open to the conditions in a room.

Plant expert Tammy Sons explains that 'Sealed terrariums should be used in humid rooms that tend to be warmer, like bathrooms or offices where consistent humidity can flow. Open terrariums should be placed in living rooms or bedrooms where the air is drier for plants that do not need as much humidity.'

Crucially, Tammy says that the choice comes down to the needs of your preferred plant. 'Neither terrarium is better than the other, it all depends on plant choice and humidity needs alongside the most important thing - personal preference. '

What are the benefits of a sealed terrarium?

The biggest benefit of a closed terrarium is that it needs very little intervention. Permanently closed terrariums create their own water cycle, reusing water in a never-ending process. You never need to add water or adjust these terrariums.

This means you can create a miniature habitat that never needs any work. Tammy explains that 'Sealed terrariums are self-sustaining. They need high humidity for moisture-loving plants and only minimal watering.'

Closed terrariums are best for moisture-loving plants like Alocasia, Maranta, and Pilea.

What are the drawbacks of a sealed terrarium?

There are a couple of issues with closed terrariums. The first is that they're susceptible to mold and rot. You need to keep sealed terrariums sterile, which is tricky enough, but once the terrarium is sealed it creates the perfect warm, moist environment for fungus and bacterial infection.

Tammy Sons says 'The drawback of a sealed terrarium is the risk of mold or rot, especially if they're overwatered'. It's easy to overwater these terrariums because they hold moisture forever - if you add too much at the start, none of it will be lost to evaporation.

Closed terrariums fog up. This is a natural part of the moisture cycle in a sealed system, especially in the morning; cold air outside the terrarium cools the glass while warm, moist air trapped in the terrarium rises. When this moist air hits the cold glass, the water in the air cools into condensation. However, this means that you can't always see the plants in your terrarium. It can look a little messy, even though it's a perfectly normal part of the terrarium.

What are the benefits of an open terrarium?

Open terrariums are just like closed terrariums, but they're permanently open to the air. There are several benefits to this. Tammy Sons explains that 'Open terrariums have a better airflow, meaning the risk of mold is lower. It's also easier to manage the water levels inside this terrarium so you can keep up with possible over-watering or drying out.'

This means that open terrariums tend to be a better option for beginners because they're easier to adjust to different conditions. They're best for nerve plants, creeping figs, or polka dot plants.

Tammy also says that 'A wider range of plants can be used in open terrariums'. For example, air plants (Tillandsia) are perfect for open terrariums. In the tropical wild, these delicate plants grow high up on the bark of trees and in shifting sands. They need minimal watering and they don't even need soil, because they absorb nutrients and water from the air. That means that air plants need open terrariums for their respiratory cycle, and they usually don't work in closed terrariums. This makes open terrariums a little more versatile than closed terrariums.

What are the drawbacks of a open terrarium?

By their nature, open terrariums make plants exposed to surrounding conditions. This can cause big shocks to your plants - even an open window or door can change the humidity of the room and potentially harm your plants. By the same token, open terrariums are more at risk from temperature changes.

Open terrariums are at a higher risk of infestation from pests and microbes. Because they're open to the air, you can't sterilize them in the way you might with a sealed terrarium. Mealybugs and pectobacteria can easily establish themselves in an open terrarium and wreak havoc on your plants.

Terrariums are far from the only way to bring some greenery into your home, and nor are they the only way to tackle humidity. There are plenty of houseplants that help to absorb moisture in the air and lots of tiny houseplants that fit in tight spots better than a neat terrarium.

Frost damage is an unfortunate reality for most of us gardeners during the cold winter months. If you reside in a cool region that is prone to sudden temperature drops and freezes, frost will be a common sight during December, January and February.

While damaged, brown or wilting foliage can be worrying, it is often manageable. The good news is that in most cases, this frost damage can be reversed, and with the right care, your plants will quickly bounce back in the spring.

Here, I reveal how to revive frost-damaged plants, with tips on how to assess the extent of the damage and actions to take to encourage healthy regrowth. So, whether you are dealing with the aftermath of a snowy period or cold weather is on the way, our guide has all the necessary steps to add to your winter gardening checklist this year.

How to revive frost-damaged plants

The best defense against frost is being proactive with protection. There are many cheap ways to protect plants from frost, including covering trees and shrubs with blankets and old materials. However, sometimes frost damage is unavoidable. Here are three steps to follow in the aftermath of cold weather.

1. Assess damage but remain patient

'When thinking about how to revive frost-damaged plants in your winter garden, the first step is to assess the damage,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'Stay calm and wait a few days after the frost has cleared to evaluate the damage.'

During periods of frost and snow, the water inside plant cells can freeze, resulting in damage to cell walls and tissues. While this will rarely kill the entire plant, you may find that one stem, branch or limb has been affected.

'Plants need time to reveal the full impact of the frost, so any immediate pruning is not advised,' Rachel says. 'Start by monitoring the foliage and stems of your plants. If they look discolored or wilted, that doesn’t necessarily mean the whole plant is dead. In most cases, frost-hardy perennials will quickly bounce back in spring, so no action is required.

'Unless a fallen limb or branch is an immediate hazard to plants or people, there is no need to rush to action in the aftermath of a freeze. So, employing patience, and identifying damage a few days or weeks later is the optimum solution.'

As Rachel says, considered and slow gardening is recommended following frosty weather. Damaged parts of a plant can actually provide an additional layer of insulation, so leaving dead foliage and stems in place can help if cold weather strikes again in the coming weeks.

2. Prune damaged plant material at the right time

Once some time has passed and the temperature has begun to rise, it is time to prune any dead or damaged material. Start by removing any leaves or stems that are dead after the last frost date. Damaged and decomposing material will be easy to spot, often with a brown or black coloring.

'When pruning, wait until the weather improves,' Rachel says. 'Be sure to use clean, sharp tools to make precise cuts. It is also best to limit the amount you prune, only removing dead material and cutting down to a healthy leaf node.

'For perennials, you can cut back frost-damaged stems a week or so after the freeze,' Rachel says. 'Snip stems and foliage that looks rotten, cutting down to the base. This is sensible as you do not want mushy material sitting atop the crown of the plant, which can invite pests and diseases.'

For any woody or larger stems and branches, use a sharp pruning saw, again cutting down to a joint. This can be done later in winter when the weather turns. When cutting, be sure to only remove what you need, and with larger branches, you might need to ask for help to support the branch or limb. Try this Corona pruning saw, available from Amazon, for a precise and accurate cut.

3. Monitor moisture in the soil

'Finally, it is always a good idea to monitor for waterlogging,' Rachel says. 'When you are checking your plants for frost damage, evaluate the soil in pots and borders.'

As you can see in the image above, borders can quickly become waterlogged in the aftermath of frost and snow, and this can cause irreparable damage to plants.

'In terms of garden drainage solutions, often the best course of action is allowing water to naturally drain away. There is no need for you to water during winter, and hopefully, with a little time, waterlogging will ease. It is easier to drain pots and containers, tipping or tilting them to remove excess water, but with borders, you might just need to be patient.'

To improve drainage in your borders, remember that mulching is always recommended. While this is not a short-term solution, regular mulching will improve soil structure and drainage over many years. Mulch is available from Walmart.

FAQs

How long will it take frost-damaged plants to recover?

In most cases, new shoots and branches will emerge in spring. Most perennials and shrubs will quickly produce lots of new green growth from March onwards, and minimal frost-damage is nothing to worry about. Sadly, if you lose larger branches and limbs to frost, this may take a few years to replace.

Should I fertilize frost-damaged plants?

No, you should not apply any fertilizer to plants in winter. Shrubs, trees and perennials are not actively growing during the colder months of the year, so added fertilizer can actually do more harm than good. Wait until spring to feed your plants.

If cold weather is on the way, it is always best to be overly cautious. While you might think it unnecessary, spending some time covering plants or moving tender pots is always recommended.

For more winter garden information, see our guide on winter plants for wildlife, to fill your yard with trees, shrubs and evergreens that will prove popular with local birds and insects this year.

When it comes to houseplants, you really only have two options: a plant in a pot or a plant in a terrarium. However, it isn't always obvious which option is best for your home. They're very similar, so it's hard to see if there's any real difference between the two options.

I spoke to a plant expert about the benefits and drawbacks of both, and she gave me some great advice about the key differences between the two.

The basic distinction is that terrariums are great for spaces where temperature can be a little variable, but houseplants are best in rooms where you have closer control over conditions. However, there are lots of other little differences to bear in mind.

What's the difference?

Houseplants are plants that thrive indoors and bring greenery, fresh air, and color to a space.

Terrariums are glass enclosures for plants. They maintain humidity and temperature around a plant to help keep it alive. They can help plants thrive in rooms that don't meet their usual conditions.

This means that the two styles of keeping plants have different benefits. Terrarium expert Megan Brame explains 'Terrariums are best for small spaces where you're not in control of the critical elements (heat, light - think like an office) while houseplants are best for places you are in often and can control the essential elements.'

What are the benefits of a terrarium?

Because they're contained, terrariums are much neater than houseplants. They don't drop leaves and they won't splash mud when you water them, so they're often a better choice for minimalist homes or those who don't have time to clean.

Terrariums also tend to be low maintenance. They're either in a sealed, self-sustaining microclimate, or the terrarium contains cacti and other succulents that don't need much watering or hands-on care. Anyone who's wrangled with a fiddle-leaf fig will know that there are plenty of houseplants out there that can be difficult to maintain.

The plants in terrariums tend to be better for low-light areas, too. Megan Brame explains that 'If the terrarium has good sealing and the right plants that prefer high humidity, you could put it anywhere that doesn’t get direct sunlight. In direct light you have a chance of the terrarium essentially cooking the plant.'

Terrariums also seal off potentially harmful plants. If you worry about keeping potentially toxic plants like ZZ plants and snake plants around dogs, cats, or kids, you can keep them in a terrarium, which seals them off from the rest of the room. This can also help to control strong scents, so if you like the look of gardenias but not the strong smell, you can block the smell from the rest of the room.

Depending on your room, terrariums can also brighten a space. Light reflects and refracts off a terrarium even with dark plants or soil inside, so a terrarium can make a room feel brighter and airier.

What are the drawbacks of a terrarium?

Because they're made of glass and metal, terrariums are surprisingly heavy, so they won't always work for bar carts or bookshelves in the way a small plant pot will.

While terrariums generally need less care than houseplants, when things go wrong they can go badly wrong. If you have a sealed terrarium and the climate in your terrarium fails - perhaps you've left it too near or too far from a heating duct - all the plants inside could die before you can take steps to revive them.

Terrariums are also much more expensive than houseplants. If you're on a budget and just need some greenery you can grab a potted monstera like this at Walmart for less than $15. The most basic terrarium setup with plants, soil, and glass housing will cost at least twice that, and more for a stylish, durable terrarium.

Because they're sealed, terrariums don't bring the air-freshening benefits of houseplants.

Terrariums are also more susceptible to pest infestations than houseplants. They have much higher humidity which is perfect for mealybugs and fungus gnats, so if you hate dealing with bugs, a terrarium may not be the best choice.

What are the benefits of a houseplant?

There's more variety with houseplants. Most terrariums are filled with small, drought-resistant cacti and succulents, and this can become a little samey. This isn't the case with houseplants, where you can mix colorful orchids with moody, dark rubber plants for a striking effect. With houseplants, you could place a small trailing plant on a bookshelf or keep a huge fern in a corner for interest. This sort of variety is impossible with terrariums. In most cases, terrariums all look very similar.

Though houseplants need more care than terrariums, it's usually very easy. If you stick to easy houseplants, you just need to water them every few days and occasionally prune their leaves. It's more work than a terrarium, but it's hardly a chore. On top of that, houseplant issues are usually easy to troubleshoot. If a plant turns yellow it probably needs more water, or it's too close to a window or heat source, or it needs repotting. If something goes wrong in a terrarium you might have to break out the tweezers to gently reposition plants or play with the soil mix or moisture level, which is a much more technical fix.

Houseplants can fill a room with fresh air and scent, which terrariums can't because they're closed off. Terrarium plants don't move either. When the windows open in spring and summer, houseplants sway pleasantly in the breeze. Terrariums don't create this effect because they're sealed off.

What are the drawbacks of a houseplant?

Houseplants require a lot of care and attention - every the hardiest and lowest-maintenance plant needs enough water and sunlight, and if you're busy this can be a pain.

Houseplants open to the air come with a lot of smells; they can bring fresh air and beautiful fragrances but also damp earth and rot. If you're at all sensitive to strong smells you might find a houseplant too much.

Houseplants are also an ongoing cost. Most terrariums are planted with succulents that grow very slowly or have a small determinate size. Most houseplants, however, grow fairly rapidly and will need to be repotted every few years. If you want a good-looking planter - who doesn't - you need to spend more than a few dollars on a brand-new pot, and the prices will increase every time the plant grows.

On top of the planter, there are all the other accessories. Certain houseplants need tropical humidity, so you need to buy a mister to keep them damp. Other plants like climbers need moss poles to support themselves, so all the add-ons can quickly mount up.

Choosing between terrariums and standard houseplants is only the start. Picking the best terrarium plants will make it much easier to create your own terrarium and ensure it works for your space, and learning about the current houseplant trends will help your space feel current.

Forcing vegetables is a simple and enjoyable way to extend the season of some crops by encouraging them to grow outside of their natural cycle. It has been done for centuries and growers worldwide still practise forcing vegetables to this day.

I spent several years working as a professional kitchen gardener in the UK, growing various crops in vegetable gardens for restaurants. The yearly routine included forcing certain vegetables to get earlier harvests as they can have a more delicate flavor when grown this way.

Not all vegetables are suitable for forcing, but that small list contains some great crops. Some particular vegetables are commonly forced in kitchen gardens worldwide, while some other suitable crops are a bit more unusual but definitely worth considering.

A guide to vegetable forcing

This guide to forcing vegetables highlights four great crops that can be forced in backyard vegetable gardens using only simple garden or household items.

What is vegetable forcing?

Forcing vegetables is not a new invention, it has been done for hundreds of years to encourage crops to grow. Historically, it could be a way for rich households to show off by having vegetables out of season.

Vegetables can be forced by manipulating the light and heat levels to encourage the growth of new shoots earlier than they would if left to follow their natural cycle. Over the years, forcing vegetables has been done by growing crops in darkness or encouraging vegetables to grow earlier by using heated greenhouses and hotbeds.

Forcing is not limited to vegetables, fruit and flowers can also be forced. Here we focus on forcing vegetables to extend the season with earlier vegetables and enjoy potentially sweeter, more delicate harvests.

Forcing Rhubarb

Why not start with the crop that is most commonly forced - rhubarb. This is a vegetable that I have forced for many years as chefs love forced rhubarb. The bright pink stems that grow from forcing are softer, sweeter, and less bitter than traditional rhubarb stems.

To grow forced rhubarb, cover the crowns in winter. You can use a terracotta forcing pot, a bucket, an upturned dustbin, or even a box to cover plants, just make sure any holes are covered so that you completely block out any light. The stems that grow from forcing rhubarb will be thinner and paler in color than traditional stems and should be ready to harvest around 6-8 weeks later.

When growing rhubarb, it is important not to force the same crowns for multiple years. Plant several rhubarb crowns as it allows you to alternate which ones you force each year for earlier stems.

Covering crowns is the easiest way to force rhubarb for those growing rhubarb at home. There are alternative methods though, for example in a walled garden I worked in we lifted some rhubarb crowns each year and planted them in a dark place to force them - similar to how rhubarb is grown in forcing sheds in the UK ‘Rhubarb Triangle’ famed for growing forced rhubarb.

Forcing Chicory

Chicory is a crop that comes in forcing and non-forcing varieties, with those best for forcing known as ‘witloof’ or ‘Belgian chicory’ types. These produce thick roots that are forced to grow white buds, known as chicons. Whatever chicory you grow, plants are grown from seed in spring or early summer to harvest from fall onwards.

Forcing chicory types are lifted in early winter and left somewhere sheltered for a week, so the moisture passes into the roots before the heads are cut off to within an inch of the base.

These roots are planted into pots filled with well-draining compost. Cover them with a bucket, or something similar, to keep out the light and grow them at 50–60°F. They must be fully covered as any light will give the chicons a bitter taste.

Chicons grown in complete darkness are tender and sweet and can be harvested after around a month. Re-cover the container after cutting the chicons from the root and you may even get a second, albeit smaller, crop to harvest.

An alternative to putting the roots in pots, they can be planted in greenhouse beds and covered with pots, buckets, boxes, or a DIY cloche made of black plastic laid over wire hoops.

Forcing Sea Kale

Sea kale is a historic and unusual perennial vegetable. As well as being a great edible plant, sea kale makes a fantastic ornamental plant with impressive foliage and mounds of white flowers.

I cultivated sea kale in two different gardens. It was when growing vegetables for a Michelin-star restaurant that the chefs wanted it to be forced as it is a seasonal delicacy that is hard to get hold of - you definitely won’t find it in the grocery store.

Sea kale can be forced in winter by covering plants with a forcing pot or bucket. The forced shoots can be ready to harvest as early as February and the vivid stems have a nutty flavor and delicate texture.

Forcing Asparagus

Asparagus spears appear in spring each year, but it can be a brief harvesting window from mid-April to June. The time to harvest asparagus can be brought forward by forcing established crowns, not by restricting light but by giving the plant extra warmth. Cover plants with a cloche or small DIY portable cold frame and some straw to provide warmth and encourage the growth of earlier stems to harvest.

You do need patience when you grow asparagus. It can take two years from planting asparagus to harvesting the first spears as the perennial vegetable needs time to establish and build strength.

Only force well-established asparagus crowns, at least four years from planting, and stop harvesting forced stems earlier than the rest of the crowns to allow them to relax and have extra time to build up lots of energy for the next growing year.

I have also previously grown asparagus in raised beds in a heated greenhouse to get earlier harvests than crowns grown outside in the vegetable garden and extend the cropping season.

Somewhat of a side note, but worth mentioning to avoid any potential confusion, is that you can see some varieties of carrots known as forcing carrots - such as the Amsterdam Forcing 2 variety of carrots, available at True Leaf Market.

These are not crops to be covered and grown without light, like the method of forcing vegetables outlined above, but they are early maturing carrots that are ideal for cultivating in a greenhouse or cold frame. They are fast-growing vegetables that can give you very early carrot harvests compared to spring sowings of other varieties, but don’t be confused by seeing the term ‘forcing’ in their name.

National Houseplant Appreciation Day on 10 January is not only a chance for us houseplant enthusiasts to celebrate the leafy members of our homes, but it also reminds us to take a step back and critique our houseplant care regime: are we truly doing the best for our plants? Even if you're a houseplant novice, you can easily become a better plant parent by making a few simple changes.

I'll be the first to admit I've made a fair few mistakes with my indoor plants. Expanding my indoor jungle is a hobby I indulge in, but with every new plant that comes into my home comes a new set of care requirements to meet. I find so much joy in caring my for my plants, but when the busyness of everyday life takes over, it's not uncommon for some habits slip.

This isn't a bad thing, however. Making common indoor plant mistakes is exactly how we learn to improve, and I have often felt a sense of achievement in rectifying these mistakes and seeing my plants thrive because of it. That's why I'm making a conscious effort to be a better plant parent for the new year. Here are the seven simple things I'm incorporating into my plant care regime that I promise will also help you level up your houseplant game.

7 easy ways to be a better plant parent

Before embarking on a journey to become a better plant parent, it's useful to have an essential plant care kit to hand, with things such as a watering can (from Amazon) and pruning scissors (from Amazon). Equipped with these tools, you can easily achieve habits every good plant parent has.

1. Allow a plant to grow where it needs to, not where you want it to

I learned very quickly you can't force a plant to be happy in spot just because you desperately want it to live there.

Not every houseplant is an indoor low light plant, those native to drier environments perhaps aren't the best bathroom plants, and those with sensitive foliage may suffer from leaf scorch if in a direct sun position.

That's why I now surrender to my plants' needs and follow the mantra of right plant, right place:

'Right plant, right place is an essential part of having healthy houseplants. Each plant has unique needs; light, water, temperature, humidity,' explains houseplant expert Sam Adler. 'You need to understand the environment that your houseplant thrives in in nature to best place them in your home,' she adds.

I find the best way to do this is first research the native habitat of a houseplant. From there, I trial and error different spots in my home that reflect its growing environment. Once I find somewhere my plant grows well, I leave it there.

Thankfully, houseplants are quite good at telling you when something isn't right. That's why you might spot your rubber plant dropping leaves or your calathea leaves curling. If they're not thriving in their current position, take it as a sign to make some adjustments.

2. Don't force a plant to stay in the same planter forever

You likewise shouldn't force your plant to stay in the same planter as it grows bigger.

Don't get me wrong, I understand the feeling of sadness when your plant becomes too large for a planter that complements your interiors perfectly, but there's no arguing that it isn't worth it to watch your plant struggle in a container too-small.

'Repotting is important because not only does it add totally fresh soil for the plant, but it also gives the roots more growing room if they have become too crowded and plant growth has been stunted,' Sam explains.

Failing to repot your monstera, repot your dragon tree, or another plant can result in it becoming pot-bound. This makes it difficult for the roots to grow and take up essential plant nutrients, impacting their growth and often resulting in discoloring foliage, among other problems.

In terms of how often to repot houseplants, it depends on the rate of growth of each plant. Generally speaking, however, Sam notes: 'Repotting typically happens every year or every other year.'

Of course, there are some houseplants that like being slightly root-bound and can stay in the same pot for a little longer than others can. Just make sure to observe the roots of your plant; if the roots are poking out the drainage holes, it's time to upgrade to a larger container.

3. Stay consistent with fertilizing

While it isn't a necessity to fertilize houseplants for new growth, I have personally seen how much they benefit from plant food - especially those I have had for the longest amount of time:

'Plants utilize the nutrients found in soil to feed themselves and to grow. Over time, the plant depletes these nutrients in the soil,' Sam explains. 'Fertilizing regularly can really help sustain healthy plant growth by adding those essential nutrients back into the soil,' she adds.

That's why I'm making an effort to establish a more regular fertilizing schedule and provide my plants with a boost of nutrients to support growth.

This should only happen during a plant's active growth season (typically spring and summer), otherwise they may suffer from houseplant root rot and root burn from the fertilizer oversaturating the soil.

There are plenty of fertilizers on the market, like this indoor plant food from Amazon. You can even get plant-specific fertilizers, like this peace lily fertilizer from Amazon for fertilizing a peace lily.

4. Always check your plant's soil before watering

I ditched a rigid watering schedule for a few reasons: 'Some plants like to be constantly moist while others like to dry out completely between waterings,' says Sam. On top of this, environmental factors (like temperature and time of year) can impact how quickly a plant's soil dries out.

These are factors a watering schedule doesn't consider, often resulting in incorrect watering and causing a whole host of issues for plant health.

Instead, I use a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to determine when to water my houseplants. You simply insert it into your plant's soil and it identifies how dry it is so you can determine if it's time to water your plants. Alternatively, you can use your finger to feel how dry the soil is.

Either way, it's key to always check your plant's soil before picking up your watering can.

5. Be ruthless with pruners when necessary

This one can take a lot of courage, but it's important for future plant growth - if your plant has damaged foliage, it needs to be removed.

'It can be helpful to lightly prune damaged stems or leaves of a houseplant to conserve the plant’s energy, so that it doesn’t continue to send energy to the damaged areas,' Sam explains.

I once had a bad thrips infestation on my monstera and it left so many leaves yellow and brown. One thing I did to get rid of thrips was cut off all the affected foliage. Just weeks later, I saw new foliage start to emerge and my monstera grew back bigger and better.

So, even though it can be scary to take essential pruning tools - like these pruning shears from Walmart - and chop up your plant, you will see the benefit long-term as the plant is able to direct energy towards new growth rather than dying foliage.

However, take care not to remove more than a third of your plant at a time, as it could send it into shock and stunt growth. Make sure to also clean your gardening tools after pruning, to avoid the spread of potential pests and diseases.

6. Don't forget to clean dust off houseplant leaves

To keep my plants looking their best, I keep on top of cleaning my houseplant leaves.

I often find those with the largest foliage are the houseplants that collect dust and this can dull their appearance. The good news is it's quite easy to clean your houseplant leaves.

All you need is water and a microfibre cloth (from Walmart). Make sure to wipe gently so you don't damage any leaves.

It isn't just for aesthetic reasons that I keep my houseplant leaves clean, either. Regularly wiping them reduces the risk of pests and diseases, especially pests that like to hide on the underside of leaves and aren't so easy to spot.

7. Share the joy of houseplants through propagation

Being able to multiply houseplants and share them with others is one of my favorite things about owning indoor plants.

Even if you haven't propagated plants before, there are plenty of easy houseplants to grow from cuttings. Once you have taken a cutting from a plant, set it up in soil or water and provide a warm, bright environment to aid rooting.

Make sure to read up on houseplant propagation mistakes and water propagation mistakes to ensure success.

There are also lots of things I do to speed up houseplant propagation. For example, using indoor greenhouses and a rooting hormone (from Amazon) for woodier houseplants.

I also enjoy making a decorative feature of my houseplant propagations. In fact, beautiful propagation stations are set to be a houseplant trend this year. You can make your own from different glass vessels or find one online. This hanging propagation station from Amazon, for example, allows you to make use of vertical space in your home.

FAQs

How can you tell what your plant needs?

This isn't always straightforward and it can be tricky to tell what's wrong with your plant if it's showing signs that it isn't happy. For example, discoloring foliage could be caused by anything from incorrect watering, to needing repotting, or even pest problems. The best thing to do is research the optimal growing environment for your plant and assess if you need to make any adjustments. Likewise, regularly check for pests and act accordingly to prevent and get rid of them.

As well as taking these steps to become a better plant parent for the year ahead, it's also a good idea to set gardening goals to work towards. This can be useful for providing you with direction in the garden and with your houseplants, especially if you have a long list of ideas you want to achieve.

Keeping plants safe during winter needn't be expensive. There are several cost-effective and cheap ways to protect plants from frost and snow, all of which I have used in my career as a professional gardener. With a little creativity, you can reuse and repurpose household items to safeguard your garden from the worst of the weather, all without breaking the bank.

When working as a professional gardener in London, South Wales and Tuscany, I battled against many freezing winters and challenging conditions. Besides hiding in the shed with a cup of warm coffee, protecting plants was an important task.

So, if you are wondering how to protect plants from frost, here are four cost-effective and easy options. While they might not win any style awards, these solutions can be quickly deployed when threatening weather moves in.

Cheap ways to protect plants from frost and snow

When to cover plants for frost will depend on where you live, your US hardiness zone and what you grow. Gardeners tend to begin protecting plants when the temperature nears 10°C/50°F, but many species can handle the mercury dipping even lower. For example, rose of Sharon shrubs, Hibiscus syriacus, can handle winter weather down to -20°C/-4°F, proving to be a hardy option for gardeners in cooler zones.

However, there are sure to be some plants that require a degree of protection in your yard, including tender and tropical species and newly planted trees and shrubs. The following four solutions are budget-friendly ways to protect plants from frost, helping you to avoid irreparable damage and disappointment.

1. Repurposing old fabric and sheets

Using a frost cloth for plants is one of the most cost-effective ways to protect plants from frost. Put simply, covering plants with old bedsheets, blankets, or even cardboard boxes ahead of a cold snap will help to keep frost and snow away from the crown of your plant and minimize damage.

While you can use purpose-made plant frost cloths, any old material you have in the shed, garage or attic will do. All that is needed is to drape the material over your plants during frosty periods.

For smaller plants or shrubs, you might need to use bamboo canes to build a tent-like structure, as you can see in the image above. I would also recommend using metal pegs, available from Amazon, to secure the fabric to the ground. In my experience, windy weather can quickly lift insecure fabric that will easily take to the skies.

Plants will be just fine if covered for a week or so during snowy weather, but remove the material when you can. Too long under warm, humid covers can invite rot or pest damage.

'This quick method can be used when learning how to protect palm trees in winter,' says Tatiana Anderson, tropical plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals.

'For tender or tropical palm species, wrap them in burlap or blankets, lifting the fronds upwards and covering the crown of the plant,' Tatiana adds. 'I would always advise against using plastic sheets, however, as they can trap moisture and cause damage.'

2. Mounding plants with homemade mulch

Mulching is an important job that you might already have on your fall or winter gardening checklist. What you might not know is that creating a mulch mound over the base of plants is a tried and tested technique for protecting plants from frost.

This approach is most common when learning how to winterize roses, as you can see in the image above. If you have homemade mulch or compost, this free resource can be used to simply add a thick layer to the base of your rose plants, helping to lock in heat and prevent the soil from freezing. The soil or mulch can be pulled back in the spring, and evenly spread around your border.

Mulch mounding can also be used for tender perennials or young shrubs that have only recently been planted. Even four to six inches of added soil or mulch will keep the crown and roots of your plants from freezing during chilly winter nights.

'This approach can also be used when learning how to protect avocado trees in winter,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'For avocados or other tender trees, simply add a thick mounding layer around the trunk, helping to insulate the base of the tree. Keep this to a six or eight-inch depth, spreading when the weather improves.'

3. Reusing old pots, jars and buckets

You will undoubtedly have lots of essential gardening tools and accessories in your shed, and some of these might prove useful when looking for cheap ways to protect plants from frost. While glass vessels or cloches, as seen above, are the most aesthetically pleasing, sometimes gardening needn't be pretty, so long as it gets the job done.

Old terracotta pots, cracked plastic containers, or even unused buckets can be repurposed to cover plants ahead of snowfall. While this is only suitable for smaller plants, simply placing an upturned pot or bucket will keep them safe. Just be sure to add a stone or brick to any lightweight objects to stop them from blowing away.

I would suggest removing these covers during the day to prevent overheating and to allow sunlight to pass through, and returning them to the shed once the risk of frost and snow has passed.

4. Using straw as a frost covering

Much like using mulch to protect plants in winter, straw is another cost-effective and versatile option if you are worried about frost and snow. You might have some sacks or bales of straw in the garden that can be used, or alternatively, garden straw is available to order from Amazon.

You can either use straw bales to create a windbreak around tender plants or use loose straw to create a natural insulating layer over borders. If you are mounding over roses or other shrubs, it might be a good idea to secure straw in place with garden twine, to provide some stability during stormy weather.

Come spring, you can compost this straw or use it as a mulch at the back of your yard, helping to enrich your soil for the growing season ahead.

FAQs

What does frost damage look like?

Frost damage is easy to spot on plants. Heavy snow or hard frosts can blacken foliage and stems, giving an almost burnt appearance. Often, damaged foliage and stems can be removed and are nothing to worry about. If the crown or base of the plant appears rotten, blackened or mushy, however, this can mean irreparable damage to your plant.

Can I use tarp to protect plants in winter?

Tarp can be used to cover plants during periods of frost and snow, but keep in mind this is best treated as a short-term solution. Plastic sheeting can cause moisture to build up in the crown of the plant, leading to rot or freezing damage when temperatures drop. Remove plastic covers during the day to allow proper ventilation, and remove them entirely as soon as the temperature increases.

Reusing and repurposing materials and equipment around the house are clever and cheap ways to protect plants from frost. So, before you get rid of old pillowcases, bed sheets, blankets, or even curtains, store them in your shed for the years ahead.

For more winter garden information, see our guide on how to revive frost-damaged plants in your yard this year.

The marsh mallow plant, or Althaea officinalis, is a hardy perennial, the roots of which were famously used for flavoring marshmallow sweets. Sadly today, most shop-bought marshmallows are made of synthetic ingredients, but the culinary history of this plant remains a fascinating one.

Learning how to grow the marsh mallow plant in your garden is relatively straightforward, and this tough perennial is considered a low-maintenance option. What's more, the flower spikes can be relied upon year after year to add height and color to borders.

So, if you are seeking tall perennial flowers to grow this year, why not add the marsh mallow plant to your plot? Here, one garden expert from Wisconsin provides all the information you need to successfully grow this popular perennial.

How to grow marsh mallow plants

The marsh mallow plant is one of the best perennials that provides excellent seasonal interest during summer. From June, tall stems shoot upwards, filling backyards with colorful blooms, proving a popular plant for pollinators. Fortunately, learning how to grow marsh mallow plants is not complicated, and our guide has all the information you need.

Growing habits of marsh mallow plants

Native to Europe, Asia and parts of Northern Africa, the marsh mallow plant is an upright perennial that is similar in shape and appearance to hollyhocks. Both species are members of the mallow plant family, or Malvaceae, and are easily confused, reaching up to six feet with dozens of flowers per stem.

'The marsh mallow plant is a low-maintenance perennial or herb,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'They tend to grow best in full sun and enjoy damp, moist soil.

'This perennial is ideal if you are looking for wild garden inspiration or cottage garden ideas, with a profusion of romantic flowers opening across the growing season. The white to pink blooms are also long-lasting, often lasting throughout the summer and into the fall,' Katie adds. 'To help promote new blooms, it is recommended to remove any stems that have finished flowering, cutting them down to the base of the plant.

'Helpfully for gardeners in cooler regions, marsh mallow plants are extremely cold tolerant and can be grown down to US hardiness zone 3, making this a great plant for northern states with frosty and snowy winters.'

Be warned, however, that these plants do best when given adequate space in the yard. Over two to three years, they can easily spread, and once established, the roots can be hard to remove. While they can be grown in most borders, providing plenty of space and room is best advised.

Althaea officinalis seeds are available from Walmart.

Grow guide for marsh mallow plants

Soil: 'Marsh mallow plants do best in moist, slightly acidic soil,' Katie says. 'To help keep the soil moist, apply a few inches of mulch to the base of the plant twice a year. Pine mulch is a good idea, which will help to develop a neutral to slightly acidic soil pH of 5.0 to 7.0.' Mulch is available from Walmart.

Light: 'These are full-sun perennials,' Katie says, 'so you want to plant in an open, sunny spot in the yard where they can enjoy at least six hours of direct light.' While you can grow marsh mallow plants in part-shade in warmer regions, such as US hardiness zone 9, this would not be a good idea if you reside in a cooler, northern state, and would result in fewer blooms.

Watering: Marsh mallow plants do better in soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. If your soil is free-draining or sandy, it is a good idea to add plenty of organic matter to your beds to help the plants retain moisture in the summer months.

Fertilizing: 'Fertilizer is generally not needed for marsh mallow plants, so long as the water levels are kept constant,' Katie says. 'Much like hollyhocks, marsh mallow plants can even grow in poor soils, so don't worry too much about feeding them.'

Pruning: As a deciduous perennial, the foliage of marsh mallow plants will drop during the fall and winter months. It is up to you when you cut back to the base of the plant, but this can be done anytime between November and February before new shoots emerge in spring.

Toxicity: The marsh mallow plant is not considered toxic to humans or pets. While parts of the plant have been used for food and medicine for many centuries, this is not advisable unless you are trained and know exactly what you are doing.

Support: To protect tall stems from wind and rain, it is a good idea to provide some staking and support for your perennials. Why not learn how to build hazel plant supports, for a natural look that will seamlessly blend into your borders?

FAQs

Can I grow the marsh mallow plant in a pot?

While it is possible to grow the marsh mallow plant in a pot, it is not advisable. This perennial can reach five or six feet tall, and when grown in a container, can easily blow over in windy conditions. It is best to keep this perennial in the ground.

How do I grow marsh mallow plants from seed?

Marsh mallow plants are easy to grow from seed. For the best approach, sow directly in the ground from late winter to early spring. Marsh mallow seeds require eight to 12 weeks of cold stratification to germinate, so some forward planning is required to get the timings right. From late spring, green shoots should emerge.

The marsh mallow plant is extremely cold tolerant, and so does not require any winter protection. The foliage will fade and fall, and the plant will die back, shooting with fresh, green stems in the spring.

For more winter garden information, see our guide on how to overwinter ferns, to keep your foliage plants safe this year.

One of the best things about houseplants is they don't have to be restricted to indoors. At different points in the year, it's possible to place your indoor plants outdoors to soak up some sunshine and fresh air.

For example, many of the best indoor succulents can be grown outdoors during the warmer months. Of course, specific types of succulents will be hardy to specific US hardiness zones, but even cooler climates can host some succulents outdoors. However, the colder months bring another challenge to consider - frost.

Whether you're planning to landscape with succulents and cacti or simply want to know where to place your potted succulents for winter, it's important to understand if succulents survive frost. Here, experts share everything you need to know.

Can succulents survive frost?

The short answer is no. Generally speaking, succulents cannot survive frost. However, this doesn't mean you can't grow succulents outdoors for part of the year, as many succulents are actually cold-tolerant houseplants.

'While most succulents may prefer warmer climates, many do just fine in zones as low as four or five,' says garden expert, Jeremy Yamaguchi, from Lawn Love. 'Agave, for example, prefers Mediterranean climates, but they are cold-hardy, surviving in US hardiness zone five to zone nine,' he adds.

Other hardy succulents include sedum, euphorbias, and sempervivum, and they often tolerate as low as -20ºF. However, frost can cause detrimental damage to the long-term health of succulents.

'Cold temperatures below freezing can damage succulents or kill them by causing their cells to rupture,' explains plant nursery expert Tammy Sons.

Not only will freezing temperatures cause problems for succulent health, it also hinders their growing environment.

'They require dry and loose soil with good drainage to survive the winter because of their shallow roots,' Jeremy explains. This means your succulents are likely to struggle in hard and compacted soil if you haven't taken precautions to stop soil freezing in winter.

How to protect succulents from frost

Now that you have more of an understanding about whether succulents survive frost, it's important to turn your attention to how to care for succulents in winter. More specifically, how to ensure they don't become damaged by frost.

'In order to protect succulents from frost, they should be moved indoors into some type of shelter, or covered with a frost cloth,' Tammy advises.

The easiest solution to protecting succulents from frost is moving them indoors, as Tammy notes. This is a task to add to your overwintering a garden checklist.

However, if you have succulents that are tricky to move, you can use some methods to protect plants from frost for your succulents.

For example, use these frost cloths from Amazon. Alternatively, try these cloches from Walmart. There are also plenty of DIY solutions, like using bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

Of course, the most important thing to do is research the lowest temperatures the succulents you're growing can withstand and act accordingly to ensure they get through winter unharmed.

FAQs

Can you revive a succulent from frost damage?

If your succulent has been damaged by frost, it is likely to have limp and yellowing foliage. Depending on the severity of the damage, it is possible to make a dying succulent thrive again. You'll need essential pruning tools, like these pruning snips from Amazon, to cut away any damaged foliage. You should then bring your succulent indoors to prevent further exposure to frost and allow its soil to dry out entirely. Going forward, provide optimal care for your succulent to help it bounce back.

As well as providing your succulents with shelter in winter, make sure to reduce watering. You should only water succulents when their soil has dried out completely. In winter, this may only be as often as every three to four weeks.

Jackfruit trees are tropical evergreen trees that produce the largest fruit in the world. The fruits taste like a cross between a banana and a pineapple and can weigh up to 80 pounds and reach 36 inches long.

The unique fruits are increasingly popular nowadays, often utilized as a meat substitute in vegan dishes. The jackfruit texture mimics meat and can be used in many meals, with the fruit suitable for roasting, grilling, barbecuing, or more. Indeed, when you grow a jackfruit tree, you may need to delve deep into potential recipe ideas, as mature jackfruit trees can produce hundreds of these tropical fruits each year.

Grow a jackfruit tree, which will make an exotic addition to any collection of trees. Jackfruit trees are remarkable and characterful fruit trees that can grow quickly and fruit prolifically when maintained properly. That includes giving it the best environment possible to thrive and caring for the tree to keep it healthy and productive.

How to grow a jackfruit tree - an expert guide

The jackfruit is a tropical evergreen fruit tree in the same Moraceae species as fig and mulberry trees. They are fast-growing fruit trees that reach 80 feet in height, with a straight trunk and smooth reddish-brown bark.

Jackfruit trees have glossy green leaves, tight clusters of green flowers, and large, edible, roundish fruits that grow on stems attached to the trunk and older branches. The fruits may look otherworldly but are filled with yellow and sweet aromatic flesh.

Jackfruit trees are commonly grown in tropical regions of Asia along with Africa, Australia, the Caribbean and warmer US states. You can grow jackfruit at home in certain US hardiness zones - more on this below - and, to help have healthy trees and bountiful harvests, I got some tips from a tropical plant expert for when it comes to planting and caring for jackfruit trees.

How to grow a jackfruit tree - planting tips

Jackfruit trees are hardy enough to grow outdoors in US hardiness zone 9 to US hardiness zone 11. Tatiana Anderson, plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals, claims that jackfruit trees can ‘tolerate’ low levels of frost for a short period without experiencing significant damage.

She says: ‘While young trees are frost-sensitive, mature trees can withstand light frost for short periods. However, cold winters can reduce fruit production. Frost-free temperatures are crucial for optimal growth and fruiting.’

As for the ideal environment to grow jackfruit, Tatiana claims: ‘Jackfruit trees require a tropical or subtropical climate, with temperatures ideally between 60-95°F. The trees thrive in frost-free, humid climates with plenty of sunlight.’

To US hardiness zone 3, growers in cooler climates can grow jackfruit in containers as patio fruit trees with proper care, including moving fruit trees growing in pots indoors or to a protected space for the colder months.

Grow a jackfruit tree in a nutrient-rich and well-draining soil type. The drainage levels are key, as jackfruit do not like sitting in very sodden soil, but are also not drought-tolerant fruit trees and will struggle with a lack of moisture.

Container-grown jackfruit trees can be bought from garden centers, nurseries, or online retailers and offer the simplest way to plant fruit trees in your yard. You can grow jackfruit from seed, however, the seeds have a short shelf life and need to be sourced fresh and it can take over four years to get the first fruit.

Plant a young jackfruit tree into a hole twice the size of the rootball and firm down the soil after backfilling the hole to remove any air pockets. Water the young tree well and mulch around the newly planted tree to keep the soil moist and suppress any weeds.

Discover the range of jackfruit trees available at Top Tropicals

How to grow a jackfruit tree - care tips

• Watering: The important aspect of watering jackfruit trees is keeping the moisture levels consistent through regular watering. Keep a close eye on the soil moisture levels to ensure it does not dry out or sit too wet, as overwatering will lead to waterlogging and root rot that risks the tree’s health. Use a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, to help judge when to water plants and avoid making common watering mistakes like over or underwatering - which will affect fruiting. Deep watering less regularly will be better than little and often.
• Fertilizing - Jackfruit trees are heavy feedings that require regular feeding to keep them healthy and productive. Tatiana Anderson recommends fertilizing the fruit trees with a dry, balanced, organic fertilizer once a month during the active growing season, supplemented with liquid fertilizers year-round when watering plants. ‘These fertilizers help maintain healthy growth and encourage abundant fruiting,’ she says. ‘Supplement with organic matter like compost, manure, or peat moss to enrich the soil.’
• Pruning - Jackfruit trees can be kept manageable, productive, and healthy through regular fruit tree pruning. Carrying out this essential maintenance task will keep the tree at a practical height and reward you with a better yield. ‘Jackfruit trees produce fruit at the base of the trunk, allowing them to be pruned annually to a height of 7-12 feet,’ says Tatiana Anderson. ‘Prune after the fruiting season or in late fall to remove excess growth and shape the tree.’ Removing upright branches will encourage lateral growth to make harvesting easier and pruning older, dead, damaged, or diseased wood will improve air circulation to reduce the risk of disease. However, do not prune more than a third of the branches at any time.
• Harvesting - Always wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting jackfruit, as the large fruits exclude sticky latex when cut. Take care not to get in on you as it can stain clothing. It takes 4-6 months from flowering for fruits to ripen and a ready-to-pick jackfruit should make a hollow sound when tapped and have an aromatic fragrance. Use a pair of clean and sharp garden loppers to cut the stem and separate the fruit from the tree. An under-ripe jackfruit can be ripened on a kitchen counter for a few days after harvesting.

FAQs

How long does a jackfruit tree take to grow fruit?

Jackfruit trees are fast-growing trees that can start fruiting within 3-4 years of planting and take 4-6 months from flowering to the fruit being ready to harvest. A healthy jackfruit tree can potentially live for up to 100 years.

Can you grow jackfruit indoors?

Jackfruit can be grown successfully in pots in colder climates. The key to success with the fruit tree in containers is a large pot and regular pruning to keep it to a manageable size. The container can be moved indoors in winter to protect plants from frost and brought out into a sunny spot for the warmer months once temperatures rise in spring. Jackfruit needs a warm and sunny spot indoors in a greenhouse, conservatory, porch, or near a bright sunny window. Keep indoor fruit trees away from cold drafts and use grow lights during winter to supplement the natural light levels.

Established jackfruit trees can tolerate light frost, as mentioned earlier, but young and recently-planted trees will need protecting from cold. You may protect fruit trees from frost by wrapping them in frost cloth ahead of predicted cold snaps or using dedicated frost covers, available at Amazon, that can be placed over young trees. Mulching around the trees with 2-3 inches of organic matter is also beneficial to protect the roots from frosts.

I don't know about you, but when I returned to my London flat after a month away visiting family for the holidays, all of my houseplants had turned yellow and brown. Though there's not much time for plant parenthood in my busy schedule, I can't stand the look (or idea) of bringing plastic houseplants into my home. Thus, constantly dying plants. Luckily, Sutton Foster has found an elevated alternative: crocheted greenery. This isn't your mother's pothos.

Foster took to Instagram to share her collection of handmade indoor plants, and they're absolutely stunning. My favorite is a woven snake plant with dark green and brown yarn in the middle and lime green yarn on the edges. She has tucked it into a white ceramic pot for an extra elevated feel. The actress used a combination of cotton yarn from Lion Brand Yarn and patterns from Emma Varnam for her creations.

What do we love about crochet houseplants as a 2025 interior design trend? First, unlike real houseplants, they don't die. Nothing can lower your design like browning or yellowing houseplants on every surface. This can happen despite your best efforts if you have a busy schedule or have picked difficult plants. Crochet takes this labor out. The plants require no care to look green and perky all year round.

I also love these crochet plants as an alternative to living plants because they don't have the artificial feel of more traditional plastic plants. As our social media editor, Anna Aylward predicted, 'Artificial plants' are on the list of 'Out for 2025.' Rather than tapping into undesirable trends that date your interiors, Foster's plant idea is made of sustainable cotton fabric.

To style crochet plants like Sutton Foster, I would recommend pairing several plants together to create a cozy, indoor crochet garden. Stying these alongside books on vertical living room shelving would be another great way to showcase them. I also love the idea of buying or creating a collection of crochet flowers and featuring them in vases on different surfaces.

Whether you love DIY or hate it, Sutton Foster's crafty idea is easy to replicate in any home. It's simple to care for, and has an elevated appearance.

If you're looking to add a splash of early (or late) color to your yard, violas should be high on your list. These delicate bloomers come in a myriad of jewel-like shades and are super easy to look after, even for beginner gardeners.

Violas are related to pansies, with the latter bearing larger flowers on often taller stems. Most violas are suitable for hardiness zones 3-9, and they tend to be grown as cool-season annuals, as they don't do well in hot summer heat.

I asked gardening experts for their advice on growing and caring for these charming flowers. Below, they share their tips on watering, soil type, and more.

How to grow viola plants

Viola plants are often available from garden centers or online nurseries. 'Violas can be planted in early spring for a cool-weather display, or in late summer to early fall for autumn blooms,' says Carrie Spoonemore of Park Seed's From Seed to Spoon app. 'They can also be planted in winter in mild climates, as they tolerate frost and cooler temperatures.' They make particularly uplifting additions to winter pots, for instance.

You can also propagate violas from seed. To do so, Rebecca Sears of Ferry-Morse recommends sowing them indoors about 8-12 weeks before the last expected frost.

'Use a light, well-draining seed-starting mix and keep the soil moist but not soggy,' she says. 'Place the trays in a bright spot with sunlight for germination, which typically takes 10-14 days.' Transplant them into individual pots once seedlings have sprouted, she adds, and remember to harden them off before planting them outdoors.

Growing habits for violas

While vibrant petunias are the perfect plant for summer hanging baskets, violas are a lovely replacement for the cooler months. They also work well in window boxes, where their delicate blooms can be easily admired.

There are all sorts of varieties to choose from, including the golden-toned 'Sorbet® Honeybee', as well as 'Johnny-Jump Up' (available from Burpee) which combines purple and yellow shades.

Growing guide for violas

Soil: Carrie says that violas thrive in well-draining, fertile soil. 'They prefer a slightly acidic to neutral pH (5.5–7.0). Amend the soil with compost or organic matter before planting to provide nutrients.'

Light: According to Rebecca, violas can grow well when planted in areas that receive at least six to eight hours of full sunlight per day. 'Keep track of climbing temperatures as you head into the warm weather months, though, as too much summer heat can cause your violas to fade,' she adds. 'Providing your violas with some shade throughout warmer periods of the day can help maintain their vibrant colors without hindering their growth.'

Watering: Don't forget to water your violas regularly, particularly if you're growing them as part of a container garden. 'Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged,' says Carrie.

Fertilizing: Feed violas regularly throughout the growing season to help them bloom well. A high-potash fertilizer can have good results.

Pruning: It's worth deadheading wilted blooms for a longer display. 'This helps the plant direct its energy toward producing new flowers rather than seeds,' says Carrie.

Toxicity: Violas are generally considered non-toxic to cats and dogs, although excessive consumption should always be avoided. For humans, some varieties of viola are often used as edible flowers – but avoid ones grown with pesticides and always check specific varieties are safe before trying this at home.

FAQs

How long will violas bloom?

'Violas bloom in early spring and can continue flowering through late spring or early summer,' says Carrie. 'With proper care and deadheading, they may also bloom again in the fall. Their blooming period typically lasts 8-12 weeks, depending on the weather and growing conditions.'

Can you grow violas indoors?

'Indoors, they require bright, indirect light, such as a sunny window or grow lights, and cool temperatures,' says Carrie. 'However, they generally perform best outdoors, benefiting from fresh air, cooler conditions, and natural sunlight.'

Consider growing African violets indoors, instead, which are easy houseplants with pretty purple blooms.

Try pairing your violas with other autumn plants for pots for a gorgeous display – our guide has lots of ideas.

It doesn't matter if you already have an expansive indoor plant collection or if you're just getting started with your indoor garden, there is a begonia for every home. With their unique textures and colors, these houseplants are some of the most striking to incorporate in your interiors.

Growing begonias is quite straightforward, and they can be grown both outdoors (across US hardiness zones 6 to zone 9) and indoors. They're loved for the wide range of colors they come in, as well as their low-maintenance nature.

There are actually thousands of types of begonias, many of which are suitable as indoor plants. This means it can be quite overwhelming to choose a begonia for your home, but we're here to help. Here, we've rounded up some of the best begonia varieties for you to browse.

5 beautiful begonia varieties

It's important to research the care requirements for the specific begonia you choose to grow, but generally speaking these plants are easy to maintain. Simply give your begonia a bright position and keep moisture levels consistent. With the right care, you might even see your begonia bloom.

1. Angel Wing Begonia

This is arguably one of the most popular begonias available. Angel wing begonia earns its name from the elegant shape of its foliage.

'Beautiful and well known for its angel wing-shaped leaves. It's the most attractive of all begonia varieties, in my opinion,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

The foliage of angel wing begonia is often dotted with silvery spots, as well as a deep burgundy color on the underside of leaves.

'Provide medium-bright light and water when the top inch to two inches of soil has dried out,' advises Julie Bawden Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

Something to note: begonias are not on the list of cold-tolerant houseplants and may start to wilt and drop leaves when exposed to cold temperatures. 'Keep it in an area that is warmer than 60°F,' Julie advises.

'You should also pinch back leggy growth to encourage bushiness and more flowers,' Alex advises.

As Alex mentions, these begonias will flower in summer and you can encourage growth by using essential pruning tools to cut back leggy and damaged growth - like these pruning shears from Amazon.

Shop Angel Wing Begonia at The Sill.

2. Begonia maculata

Often mistaken for angel wing begonia, Begonia maculata is another spotted begonia - it's even known as polka dot begonia for its dotted foliage.

'Angel wing's silver spots are typically larger, and the underside of the leaves features a deeper color,' explains Nastya Vasylchyshyna, botany expert at Plantum. 'The polka dot begonia has striking elongated leaves, adorned with silvery spots on a rich forest-green base,' she adds. 'With proper care, this plant will reward you with beautiful clusters of graceful white or pinkish flowers.'

Begonia maculata does well in bright, indirect light and you should only water this plant when the top couple of inches are dry. Try using this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify when to water your houseplants.

You can find Begonia maculata for sale at Walmart.

3. Begonia rex

If you're a fan of the best unusual houseplants, then there is no better choice than Begonia rex, also known as painted-leaf begonia or king begonia. These plants come in a wide range of vibrant colors, even earning them a spot on the list of the best red houseplants.

'The king begonia lives up to its regal name with its luxurious appearance,' says Nastya. 'The velvety, densely covered leaves showcase a beautiful mix of green, red, pink, and beige, often accented with silver specks or patterns in wine or violet hues,' she adds.

You'll need to provide Begonia rex with bright light to maintain its bright hues, but avoid direct light which could cause leaf scorch. 'An eastern window works well for these begonias,' says Julie. 'If you will be growing the plant in front of southern or western windows, set the plant back two to three feet or use window coverings,' she advises.

There are so many types of Begonia rex plants to choose from: 'Its ability to easily crossbreed means you’ll find a wide variety of hybrids, each with unique leaf shapes, patterns, flowers, and color combinations, making this plant a true showstopper,' explains Nastya.

This Begonia Rex Pink from The Sill is a brilliant choice, with bright pink foliage and deep purple veins. For something more unusual, opt for this Vampire Kiss Begonia Rex from Walmart.

4. Begonia metallica

Perhaps a variety you haven't heard of before, Begonia metallica (metal leaf begonia) is certainly one to consider. It showcases the classic begonia leaf shape with a finish that gives it a metallic appearance.

'The metallic sheen on the leaves gives this variety a unique and eye-catching appearance. The leaves are a bronzy-green color with hints of silver,' describes Alex Kantor.

While other types of begonia are more sensitive to direct sunlight, Begonia metallica can benefit from slightly more sun exposure. 'Plenty of sunlight will even bring out the metallic sheen,' Alex says.

'This fast-growing, low-maintenance plant blooms in summer and fall, making it an easy choice for any plant lover,' Nastya adds.

5. Rieger begonia

If you're shopping for begonias for their blooms, there's no denying that Rieger begonia is one of the best indoor flowering plants to consider.

'Rieger begonia comes in a variety of bright flower colors, including yellow, pink, red and orange,' says Julie Bawden-Davis.

Unlike the variegated indoor plant foliage of other begonia varieties, Rieger begonia usually has plain deep green leaves. However, this allows their showy blooms to take center stage.

Their blooms also usually come out in winter, brightening your home during the darker months. 'For this reason, keep the plants away from heating vents in winter to prevent wilting,' advises Julie.

FAQs

Which begonia varieties are best for growing outdoors?

There are plenty of types of begonias that can grow well outdoors. To name a few: rex, cane, and tuberous begonias. Generally speaking, begonias are hardy across US hardiness zone 6 to US hardiness zone 9), but you should always check the hardiness of the specific begonia you wish to grow in your yard to ensure it will thrive in your local climate.

It's no surprise that because begonias grow well as houseplants, you can also grow begonias in pots outdoors. You can even move your begonias outdoors for the warmer months before bringing them back inside for the colder months. When doing this, make sure to prevent pests when you bring these houseplants back indoors.

Compost is a vital part of any good garden, providing nutrient-rich fertilizer from household waste that would otherwise end up in a landfill.

However, there are four different types of composter out there and it isn't obvious which bin best suits which type of garden. Some bins can cost hundreds of dollars, which seems like a lot when you consider that they're usually just panels of plastic or cedar.

I spoke to a range of gardening experts about how to buy a compost bin. The pros gave me lots of tips about each type of bin, the size of the bin you need, and how much to spend. Here's what they said:

1. Plastic compost bins

The most common and cost-effective compost bin is a plastic bin. You can find these bins in any hardware store or farm supply store, and they're the cheapest type of compost bin. They're lightweight, so they're easy to set up. When empty, a plastic compost bin only weighs a few pounds, so its easy to place wherever you need. Lots of plastic bins are made of recycled plastic, too.

Plant nursery expert Tammy Sons says 'Plastic bins are lightweight and durable, as well as eco-friendly, but they may retain moisture because they are less breathable.'

Yard expert Jeremy Yamaguchi agrees and says 'Plastic compost bins are some of the cheapest, which is arguably their biggest benefit, and they can get the job done.'

However, plastic bins have drawbacks. They aren't as strong as wood bins, so they're liable to burst if you overfill them, which can be a gross problem to clean. Yard expert Ryan Farley says 'Though I see and recommend plastic bins the most, they can also be a less durable option, since plastic degrades especially when it’s exposed to the moisture and heat generated by compost.'

On top of that, they're the stinkiest bin you can buy. Jeremy says 'Plastic compost bins are some of the smelliest. Other materials can trap the bad smells of compost far more effectively than plastic.' Plastic bins are especially bad for this smell because they close tight. While that's good for keeping out rodents and raccoons, it seals in moisture. Too much moisture is bad for compost as it stops the decomposition process, but it's also the perfect condition for bad-smelling bacteria.

Health-conscious gardens should also beware of microplastics from plastic compost bins. Research into the phenomenon is still ongoing, but it appears that even BPA-free compost bins may leach microplastics into compost. If you're making compost to help you grow vegetables, it might be wise to use a different compost bin, as these plastics could end up in your vegetables.

2. Wood compost bins

The second most common compost bin is a wooden compost bin, and these have lots of great features.

Wooden compost bins are usually much larger than plastic bins, offering gallons more compost, so they're the best option if you have a large plot and lot of plants to fertilize. They're made from renewable material which doesn't leach microplastic, and they don't trap moisture like a plastic bin, so they don't smell as bad.

Garden expert Manny Barra says 'Made from renewable materials, wood compost bins are perfect for the eco-conscious gardener aiming for aesthetics and functionality. They also breathe better than plastic bins, helping you maintain the Goldilocks balance of moisture and airflow.'

You can also DIY a wooden compost bin. If you have boards, planks, or an old pallet left over from another project you can reuse this wood in a compost bin. It's simple DIY - all you need to do is nail together some planks into a wooden box. The easiest design is open, so you can get to the compost - just make three sides to the box instead of four so that you can get to the compost.

However, over time the wood will rot from the moisture in the compost, so wood compost bins may not last as long as plastic bins. Tammy Sons says 'Wooden bins, are breathable and eco-friendly, but in turn are less durable due to wood being able to rot over time.'

Ready-made wooden bins are more expensive than plastic bins, too. they usually cost $150-$200 dollars, whereas you can pick up a cheap plastic bin for around $50.

Wood compost bins are less secure than plastic compost bins, and if installed incorrectly they can introduce vermin to your yard. They're the perfect food source for raccoons and rats, and it can be very messy to clean up after them.

3. Hot compost bins

Hot compost bins speed up the composting process from a year to just three months. It's exactly as it sounds - Manny Barra says 'They rapidly turn your scraps into rich, dark compost, often within weeks thanks to their ability to generate high internal temperatures.'

Hot compost bins use highly insulative materials to ramp up the temperature in your compost to around 140°F. This hugely speeds up the process, and they're handy in winter when decomposition slows in cold temperatures. If you bought and installed a hot bin now, you could have compost in time for late spring.

However, they're the most expensive bins you can buy. An Aerobin like this at Burpee will set you back nearly $500. On top of that, they need a lot of work. You need to top them up and turn them every day, which isn't the most practical solution for most amateur gardeners.

Tammy Sons sums it up well: 'Hot bins speed up decomposition and work year-round, but can be quite costly and require near-constant monitoring for safety.'

4. Tumbler compost bins

You can also buy tumbling compost bins. These bins are drums on an axle. Unlike any other compost bin, where you have to turn the compost with a fork, a tumbler spins, saving you from turning it all over.

Manny Barra explains that 'Tumbler bins are the lazy gardener’s best friend; just give them a spin, and voilà, your compost mixes itself. They’re sealed tight, keeping nosy critters and unpleasant smells at bay, and their elevated design is a win for your back. Tumblers are also relatively speedy, turning scraps into compost in a matter of weeks.' Because they're lifted off the ground, it's harder for vermin to get into the bin.

However, these bins are small. The average size of a tumbler compost bin is at least half that of a plastic or wooden compost bin, so it won't work for larger gardens. They're also expensive for what they are; you can pay more than you would for a plastic compost bin and end up with half the compost. Tammy Sons says 'Tumblers are easy to mix and pest-proof but cannot hold as much compost and are also quite expensive.'

Tumbler compost bins aren't as good as they claim, either. They're usually faster than wooden or plastic bins but only by a couple of months - don't believe any claims that a tumbler bin can make compost in just four months.

5. Work out the size you need

Working out the size of the bin you need depends on several factors. The most important ones to consider are the size of your family; the amount of waste you all produce; and how much compost you need.

Ryan Farley explains that 'What size compost bin you’ll need can depend on a few different factors. I’ve seen this primarily be influenced by how much you’ll be putting into it, what type of materials you’ll be adding, and perhaps most importantly—how much of the “finished” compost you’ll be using.

If you're using a plastic or wooden bin, Ryan says 'I tend to recommend around a 3 x 3-foot square bin for starters. That’s a pretty basic starting size, and works well if you’re primarily composting things like kitchen scraps, cardboard, and some yard litter. If you’re going to be composting lots of yard scraps like grass clippings, leaves, etc, then you might want something a bit larger.'

However, a 3x3 footer bin will make a lot of compost. Full to the top, a cubic yard of composting material will reduce to roughly 130 gallons of compost. That's nearly 20 bags of compost - great for keen gardeners but might be overkill if you just have a couple of raised beds.

To this end, Tammy Sons says 'To get the most out of a compost bin, find one that matches the amount of household waste your home may produce. Smaller bins can hold the excess of one to two people, but medium and large bins can hold the waste of a family or an entire garden.' If you don't make that much waste, keep it small - you can always buy another bin if you need one, but it's harder to remove a big compost bin.

6. Know you budget

The best news is that compost bins are relatively cheap by garden product standards. Don't spend any more than $70 on a plastic bin, no more than $200 on a wood bin, and no more than $500 on a hot bin.

Manny Barra says 'There's no need to buy a hot bin that costs as much as a weekend getaway if you’re only tossing in a few coffee grounds. Remember, the goal is turning trash into treasure, not breaking the bank. A reasonable range is $50–$150, depending on your needs and the bin’s materials.'

Compost bins are just the start. Once your bin is set up, you need to know about the right ratio of green to brown material, as well as the unusual compost ingredients that make for surprisingly great fertilizer.

Climbers can transform any garden, whatever the size. Whether you have a small urban balcony or large rural plot, using one or two of the easiest climbers that are fast-growing and resilient will help to maximize greenery and create a lush (and living) backdrop.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted and maintained many different climbing plants and understand the value they bring to any garden. Whether you enjoy the fragrance of star jasmine or the colorful canopy of Virginia creeper, not only can climbers soften hard landscaping, they add visual interest to outside spaces. And, let's face it, no one wants to see bare walls and empty fences when they look out of the window.

Here, I share five of the easiest climbers to grow, including some of the easiest perennial and evergreen vining plants, each offering a unique combination of beauty and practicality. So, whether you are a novice gardener or simply looking for low-maintenance solutions, these climbers will make an impact.

Easiest climbers to grow

When choosing the best climbers to grow in pots or borders, it’s important to consider what works best for your yard. The climate, US hardiness zone and the growth habits of the species you want to grow should all be understood to avoid gardening mishaps. Many flowering climbers, for example, like full sun, while some evergreens might prefer part-shade. With the right selection, the vertical surfaces in your yard will soon be transformed. Here are five of the easiest climbers to grow, with tips and advice from expert gardeners.

1. Creeping fig

One of the easiest climbers to cover a bare wall is the creeping fig, available to order from Perfect Plants nursery. 'The creeping fig, Ficus pumila, would be a great choice if you are looking for low-maintenance vines,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

'It is a fast-growing vine that can effectively fill fences, walls and pergolas with evergreen foliage,' Alex adds, 'eventually reaching a mature size of 10 to 15 feet. It prefers partial to full shade and is adaptable to a variety of soil types.

'In cooler regions you may experience some defoliation in the colder months, but generally speaking, from US hardiness zone 8 and above, this species is evergreen, making for an ideal choice if you are seeking winter climber ideas.

'Regular watering, especially during dry spells, will help establish the vine,' Alex says. 'It's important to prune creeping fig regularly to maintain its growth and prevent it from spreading beyond its designated area, which can be done at any time of year.'

2. Star Jasmine

'Star jasmine is always a popular choice with gardeners,' Alex continues. 'Often thought of as one of the best evergreen climbers, star jasmine, or Trachelospermum jasminoides, will fill you yard with lush foliage and fragrant flowers in spring and summer.

'In terms of learning how to grow star jasmine, it can be planted from US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10. It is an adaptable vine that can be grown in various light and soil conditions,' Alex adds. Star jasmine live plants can be ordered online at Perfect Plants nursery.

'Be sure to use a sturdy trellis or support structure for star jasmine to climb, however, to prevent this climber toppling over. Regular pruning can help control its growth and shape, which is best done after the blooming period.'

3. Chilean Potato Vine

The Chilean potato vine, or Solanum crispum, is certainly one of the easiest climbers to grow. Here in the UK, it can often be seen tumbling over garden walls and filling vertical structures with attractive lilac blooms in summer.

Native to South America, it thrives in US hardiness zone 9 plus, preferring a sunny position and moist but well draining soil. This species could be grown in a pot and protected during the winter, which might be the best option if you reside in a cooler area, such as US hardiness zone 5.

As seen in the images here, the Chilean potato vine produces dense clusters of small, purple-blue flowers with bright yellow centers throughout the summer. Pruning your vine after flowering, usually around August or September, will encourage healthy growth and keep it under control.

Many Solanaceae species, otherwise known as the nightshade family, are considered poisonous plants as they contain alkaloids. Keep an eye on pets and children if you grow the Chilean potato vine, as all parts are toxic and if consumed in large doses, can be fatal. For more information, Wicked Plants by Amy Stewart is a fascinating read, available from Amazon.

4. Virginia creeper

Virginia Creeper, or Parthenocissus quinquefolia, is unrivalled when its comes to fall foliage. This climbing plant is famed for its spectacular crimson red-orange display from October, which looks particularly impactful when covering exterior walls.

Versatile and resilient, this vine can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, tolerating sun or shade and thriving in a wide range of soils. Despite losing its leaves in winter, the bare structure of the plant can maintain garden interest, even in December and January.

Once established, Virginia creeper requires little maintenance, although I would suggest pruning every year to control its spread. Older vines with expansive spreads can pose a risk to exterior walls, as the weight of the climber may damage fragile masonry or fencing. Be sure to support your vines by regularly tying them in.

Virginia creeper live plants are available to order from Amazon.

5. Passion Flower

Growing best from US hardiness zone 6 to zone 10, passion flowers are the ultimate flowering climber. 'There are approximately 600 species of passion flower, and many hundreds of hybrids as well,' says Myles Stewart Irvine, garden expert and passion flower breeder.

'For cooler regions, try the native Passiflora incarnata - or the maypop - that can even cope with zone 5,' Myles says. 'In terms of learning how to grow passion flowers, most love full sun and free draining soil. They are also natural climbers so will readily grow up trellis, garden wires, mesh or even bamboo canes.'

Be warned, however, that Passiflora incarnata is considered an invasive climber by some as it can 'throw up runners everywhere, as indeed can the common passion flower Passiflora caerulea,' Myles adds. Growing in a pot can help to reduce this threat.

'Hybrids are a better option as they usually produce few runners and less fruit,' Myles says. 'Of course, I recommend my hybrids: ‘Betty Myles Young’, ‘Damsel’s Delight’ and ’Snow Queen'.

For another unusual hybrid, try growing this 'Scarlet Flame' passion flower, available from Amazon. With crimson petals, this fragrant climber will steal the show wherever it is planted.

FAQs

What are the easiest climbers to grow in containers?

If you are short on space and looking to grow climbers in pots, stick with flowering vines that can add impact and color. Passion flowers are the obvious choice but do require warmer weather to thrive. If you reside in a cooler region, try growing the evergreen clematis, Clematis armandii, which will provide year-round greenery as well as fragrant white blooms in spring. Clematis armandii plants are available to order online from Amazon.

Whatever climbers you grow, be sure to tie in old and new shoots before the fall and winter months. Strong winds, heavy rain and snow can damage stems, so it is best to loosely tie plants to garden walls, fences and structures, to avoid gardening disappointment. I recommend using a product like these reusable Velcro ties from Amazon, which are incredibly effective.

Looking for some more fool-proof plants to fill your yard with greenery this year? Check out our guide to the easiest evergreen trees to grow, which will retain foliage year-round, meaning that your borders will stay full of color and structure, whatever the season.

I am constantly on the lookout for the best plants for a courtyard garden as I have a small courtyard garden myself. It's a beautifully private outdoor space, with a mix of sun and shade areas, a big display of containers, a couple of small potted trees, some climbers to disguise the boundaries, and plenty of evergreen shrubs for year-round interest.

This combination meant I had a lot of bases to cover to fully utilize the space and turn it into the flowering urban jungle I was looking for. I wanted a mix of big leafy plants, flowers and scent to attract pollinators, and seasonal interest at different times of year so it didn't always look the same.

There have been success stories with plants I've chosen for my courtyard garden ideas, as well as one or two failures, so I'd love to share what has worked for me. I also asked some other experts for their input, and discovered some new suggestions that I'm definitely going to try out. After all, a garden is a constantly evolving thing.

8 of the best plants for a courtyard garden

Courtyard gardens offer the opportunity to showcase your plant collection in a beautiful space. They might be small or overlooked by surrounding buildings and high walls but this can be a benefit as it means they offer a micro-climate where you can expand your planting by including more tropical garden ideas.

'Creating a courtyard garden requires carefully selecting plants suited to the available light, space, and aesthetic preferences,' says landscape designer Alex Betz. 'Consider slow-growing, trailing, and compact plants to maximize the courtyard space's charm and functionality.'

Explore some of these clever small garden ideas that will firmly put the focus on the best plants to turn your courtyard garden into a thriving space that feels like an oasis. Choose compact, easy-care plants like dwarf shrubs, ornamental grasses, and container displays for a thriving city garden you can be proud of.

1. Best flowering plant to attract pollinators

I'm keen on attracting wildlife into my courtyard garden, especially butterflies and bees. With this in mind, my absolute favorite plant for pollinator-attractive blooms from spring until late fall/first frost is Salvia x. 'Amistad'.

I have a supersized container planted up with this beauty and it's reached a height of around 5 feet tall. The flower spikes are covered in visiting bees and butterflies for literally months. I love watching bees foraging for nectar in the deep purple tubular flowers while I have my morning coffee.

Salvia plants come in various shades, including blue, violet and purple, which are the colors most likely to attract bees, according to scientists. There are many different varieties of salvia to keep the blooms coming from spring until fall, and this extended bloom period provides a regular food source for pollinators.

This easy-care perennial plant thrives in all zones and can also be grown as an annual in zones 8-11. It will be happy in partial shade/partial sun. It's so easy to propagate more plants from cuttings too if you want to find out how to propagate salvia to grow your collection.

Salvia x 'Amistad' is available at Nature Hills

2. Best flowering plant for a shady courtyard

The elegant flowers of Japanese anemone ‘Honorine Jobert’ are a must-have for late summer/early fall in a shady courtyard garden. This cultivar is really happy in part shade, and the elegant white flowers on tall stems are a great choice to lighten up shady corners.

'Japanese anemones are a welcome addition to the late-summer garden,' says horticulturalist Jenny Rose Carey, author of The Ultimate Flower Gardener's Guide. 'Their long stems hold bowl-like blooms above lower-growing good quality foliage. The form of the plant and the flower make a lovely fresh contrast to other plants of the season, and they have a lovely see-through quality.'

Hardy in zones 4-7, this cool classic works well in both pots and flower beds. It looks spectacular against dark foliage plants, helping to brighten a dark corner with luminous white color. Find out how to propagate Japanese anemones too as this is another plant that's really easy to multiply.

3. Best small and shapely ornamental tree

'Japanese maple trees (Acer palmatum) are both visually appealing and manageable for a courtyard garden,' says Alex Betz. 'With their compact size and stunning foliage, these elegant, slow-growing trees make a perfect center piece for a small space.'

The vibrant colored foliage and beautiful natural shape of maple trees will add strong visual impact to a small urban courtyard. They can be a real showstopper, adding a touch of wow factor to your design.

As well as planting them in the ground they work well in a container. Put plenty of drainage material such as broken terracotta pieces in the base and use a good quality soil-based compost mixed with organic matter. Once you've added your tree dress the surface with gravel to help provide the well-drained environment that maples love.

These trees are the very definition of low maintenance too, as all they need is a part shaded position to thrive. Japanese maples thrive in zones 5-8.

4. Best leafy green tropical plant

If you would like to introduce a tropical plant to your courtyard garden, Alex Betz recommends trying a Philodendron 'Xanadu'. 'Compact and easy to maintain, this tropical plant is great for shady corners. It does best in zones 9-11 with indirect light or shade, moist, well-drained soil, and occasional fertilizing.'

This tropical beauty has large smooth leaves that feature deeply cut lobes, which makes for a dramatic outline. As the plant grows the more pronounced the lobes become. It can be grown in either a large pot or garden bed, and will soon form attractive tiered clumps with a cascade effect.

Easy care 'Xanadu' stays compact and is one of the best plants for a courtyard garden if you want a mini rainforest vibe. It looks particularly good if you group a few of them together, maybe mixing in some banana plants, elephant ears and palms to max up the leafy foliage.

Philodendron 'Xanadu' is available at Amazon.

5. Best fragrant climbing plant

'The best plants for a small courtyard are usually plants with smaller leaves with bursts of colorful flowers and intricate shapes,' says Eric Preston Stout, master gardener and landscaper. 'Another go-to for small courtyards are plants that are evergreen. They usually require less maintenance and provide year-long interest.'

One of Eric's favorite plants for small spaces is jasmine. 'My favorite for the warmer climates, especially in California, is star jasmine (USDA zone 8 to 11). This variety can be grown as a hedge or a vine. As a vine growing up and over a structure it can reach a height of 20 feet and a spread just as far. Or it can be left to grow along the ground forming a hedge 1-3 feet tall. It’s evergreen, hardy as nails, and can tolerate drought. Jasmine likes sun or shade, likes full sun to filtered sun, but can tolerate half shade or less than 4 hours of sun.'

Find out how to grow star jasmine and it will shine in your courtyard garden. The scent is unmistakably great for an enclosed seating area, where it will also provide year-long interest. When courtyard gardens are overlooked use star jasmine to remedy the situation.

You can find star jasmine plants at Walmart

6. Best clipped evergreen for year-round interest

Every courtyard garden needs one or more of the best evergreen shrubs to offer year round structure and interest. Ornamental boxwood plants are the go-to if you're looking for a smart, clipped look to see you through the seasons.

'Boxwoods are ideal shrubs for low hedges or shaping in a courtyard garden,' agrees Alex Betz. 'They thrive in zones 5-9, with full sun to part shade, evenly moist, well-drained soil, and occasional pruning to keep them looking smart.'

Look out for a variety like the Baby Gem™, one of the best plants for a courtyard garden because of its bright green fine-textured foliage, small size, and compact growing habit. Although it looks cute it's a tough little shrub that won't let you down.

It won't mind a bit of drought or heat, can be left to do its own thing or trimmed into shape to keep it small if preferred. This particular baby boxwood is a dwarf variety so it will suit being in a container or alternatively the ground if you prefer.

Baby Gem™ boxwood is available at Nature Hills.

7. Best sun-loving plant

With lush tropical blooms that enhance any outdoor area, hibiscus is one of the best plants for a courtyard garden if you live in one of the hot zones. The huge flowers come in a smorgasbord of colors including pink, orange, yellow, red, and purple, and will add a vacation vibe to your space.

Hibiscus also comes in hardy varieties. 'These fast-growing plants explode with pinwheel-like flowers the size of dinner plates in late summer,' says Gail Pabst, a horticulturalist who works for the National Garden Bureau. 'Often confused with their tropical cousins, they can survive temperatures as low as -30°F. Take, for instance, Rose Mallow ‘Edge of Night’. This compact perennial with huge 8 inch bubblegum pink blooms and jet-black foliage is hardy to zone 4.'

Find out how to grow hibiscus and you'll soon discover they are one of the best flowering shrubs for a courtyard garden if you want to add masses of long-flowering tropical blooms.

Rose mallow seeds are available at Walmart

8. Best textural ornamental grass

Now for another one of my favorites for adding texture, shape and movement to my courtyard garden, as well as being an easy 'filler' plant to dot about in pots. I like to fill several pots with it and group them together as a feature.

Drifts of the easy ornamental grass Hakonechloa macra help to soften paved areas in courtyards. It looks lovely both on its own or mixed in with other plants.

The minimal look and easy nature of this grass particularly suits modern courtyard gardens but it will work just as well in a more traditional space.

This variety, which is also known as Japanese forest grass, is the very definition of low maintenance and will look after itself. It thrives in zones 5-9, and doesn’t need watering or feeding. It's perennial too, so it lasts from year to year.

It also turns a beautiful russet color in fall, and for this reason makes it onto our shortlist of the best ornamental grasses for winter interest

Now you're up to speed with ideas for the best plants for a courtyard garden you can find out about other small space ideas too, such as balcony garden ideas and small patio ideas to breathe new life into outdoor areas.

Our outdoor friends come in all shapes and sizes, from the many-legged, the furry and the slimy. Encouraging insects to become a part of our yard's eco system is a great way to help the surrounding environment to thrive. However, it isn't quite so rewarding when slugs start eating our plants.

You don't have to grab an insect spray that will harm or kill slugs if you're facing this issue in your yard though. In fact, by combining garlic with just a few other ingredients, you can create a simple homemade bug spray to spray on your plants and crops that will simply deter slugs away from the area.

Here, two gardening experts in the know about deterring pests share how to make a garlic spray, and explain more about why it's so good at deterring slugs.

Why does garlic deter slugs?

In the world of cuisine, garlic is a strong flavor that most of us have to moderate when making dishes. It's this same pungent aroma that causes slugs to turn the other way when they smell it or begin to taste it on the leaves of your plants.

Ofra Gaito, CEO of Verdant Lyfe Plant Shop, says, 'A chemical called allicin is produced when garlic is crushed or chopped, and it has a strong, pungent odor that repels many insects and pests. The smell of garlic is actually overwhelming to many pests, including slugs, aphids, and even mosquitoes.'

So if you want to learn how to make a garlic spray to protect your plants from slugs, the good news is you can use it to deter other insects at the same time, all without causing any harm.

How to make a garlic spray in 5 simple steps

You will need:

• One head of fresh garlic (a garlic bulb): available at most grocery stores
• Mild natural liquid soap that isn't antibacterial: the Method dish soap in lime and sea salt at Walmart is biodegradable and plant-derived
• One quart of water: you can use the United Solutions 1 quart round measure from Walmart to help measure this accurately
• A blender: the Magic Bullet blender in small on Amazon is the site's top seller and you can use it for so much in the kitchen as well
• A spray bottle like the ones in the 4 pack of mainstays plastic teal spray bottles from Walmart
• A strainer or cheese cloth: using a small fine mesh sieve like the GoodCook ready 6" mesh strainer from Target will do the trick
• A coffee filter or thin cloth: the white coffee filters from Target are great value

Once you have gathered your kit, follow this method:

1. Blend together garlic and water

To begin creating this simple spray solution, first you need to combine the garlic and a quart of water in your blender. Depending on how strong you want the solution to be you can opt for a minimum of four to five individual cloves in the mixture, but it's best to use the entire bulb to prevent slugs from destroying your plants.

'Peel and blend the garlic with one quart of water,' says Jessica Mercer, senior content marketing coordinator and plant expert at Plant Addicts. 'Alternatively, if you don't have a blender and don't wish to purchase one, you can chop the garlic into small pieces to release the essential oils and allicin, and soak it with half the water for a day or two. Add the remaining water in afterwards to continue the rest of these steps.'

Garlic is easy to come by in stores but if you're feeling a bit green-fingered, you can even grow garlic indoors.

2. Strain the mixture

After your garlic has completely liquefied and combined with the water, you need to strain out any lumps in the solution.

'Strain the mixture through a cheesecloth or fine mesh strainer into a clean bowl to remove solids,' says Ofra. If you skip this step, the garlic solids will clog up the nozzle of your spray bottle, making it difficult to use.

It's optional prior to straining your garlic and water to add in one to two teaspoons of cayenne pepper or a few drops of an essential oil like eucalyptus to boost the fragrant factor of your mixture but it isn't vital for the spray to work.

Target's everspring eucalyptus pure essential oil would be ideal for this as it's not a diluted version of the product.

3. Strain the mixture (again)

To make sure no solids can trap in your spray bottle, running your once-strained solution through a coffee filter will be incredibly helpful.

'Re-straining through a coffee filter ensures no tiny particles remain that might clog the spray nozzle,' says Jessica.

If you notice lumps are still in your garlic solution, keep straining it until it looks smooth. You can use some of your other coffee filters to place at the bottom of plants pots to help retain potting mix in your planters.

4. Add in some soap

Once your mixture is smooth and strained you can optionally add in a small amount of a natural soap. Though this is another optional step, it's one experts would definitely recommend.

'Adding in a teaspoon of mild liquid soap helps the solution to stick better to surfaces or plants,' says Ofra. This, in turn, will improve the staying power of your garlic spray so you don't have to replenish it as frequently (it won't run straight off of the leaves of your plants).

5. Dilute your mixture and transfer it into a spray bottle

Finally, dilute your garlic mixture before pouring it into a spray bottle to use. If you struggle pouring, investing in a small funnel like the GoodCook ready collapsible funnel from Target will help to prevent any spills, saving you as much of your garlic mixture as possible.

'Make a 1:10 dilution by mixing 1 part garlic concentrate with 10 parts water; then pour the solution into a spray bottle,' says Jessica.

If you have spare pulverized garlic left over you can store it safely in a container with an air tight lid like the ball glass mason jar with lid and band from Walmart.

'Store the garlic that's in a sealed container in a cool, dark spot or in the refrigerator if possible,' says Jessica. 'The spray in your spray bottle will keep for about one to two weeks before losing potency.'

How best to use a garlic spray in the yard

To use your garlic spray, simply transfer the solution into a spray bottle like the ones in the 4 pack of mainstays plastic teal spray bottles from Walmart, and spray it directly onto the leaves of your plants that require protecting.

'Once your solution is ready, shake it well and apply it directly onto plants, around the garden, or in areas where pests are a problem,' says Ofra. 'Avoid spraying during the hottest part of the day to prevent plant damage.'

To stay on the safe side Jessica recommends only using your garlic spray in the evening. Slugs are also around more during that time of the day.

'I recommend applying the spray in the early evening when slugs are active and beneficial insects are less so,' says Jessica. 'Coat both sides of the leaves, repeating every few days or after rain. Continue until no new pest damage is seen.'

Now you know how to redirect the slugs in your yard away from feasting on your plants, perhaps it's time to learn about the benefits they play in your garden ecosystem, as we answer the question - can slugs and snails ever be good for the backyard?

Asparagus may have a short season, but those delicate spears are highly prized harvests. However, as crowns multiply over the years, asparagus plants can get congested. This will affect the number and size of spears, but what can be done?

The answer is to divide asparagus crowns when they get overcrowded. This can rejuvenate older crowns and produce new plants for your vegetable garden. It is a simple task, and the reward is boosted asparagus harvests in the years ahead.

If you grow asparagus and have noticed your spears getting thinner or fewer in numbers in recent years, then maybe the time has come to divide asparagus.

Can you divide asparagus crowns?

Dividing asparagus is a way to rejuvenate old and overcrowded clumps, however, it is not without risk as it can stress plants and they can suffer transplant shock. To mitigate the potential risks, this guide looks at when and how to divide asparagus correctly to help you get new, healthy plants and increased yields.

When to divide asparagus

Dividing asparagus isn’t a job to do frequently, clumps should be divided only at least every 3-4 years. This gives the crowns time to re-establish afterwards in the vegetable garden.

The crowns need to be initially well-established before being divided, and then they can be split in further years if they need reinvigorating. For example, Valeria Nyman, chief product officer at Taim.io, says: ‘If the spears start coming up pencil-thin and fewer in number, well that’s your cue to divide asparagus’.

The best time to divide asparagus is during dormancy. The ideal windows are late fall, after cutting back asparagus, or early spring. Dividing when clumps are dormant reduces the overall stress on the plant and helps it establish successfully in its new home.

Timing is important and, if you plan to divide asparagus, it needs to be done before any new shoots start pushing through the soil in spring.

How to divide asparagus crowns

The steps to divide asparagus are relatively simple and can be done with common gardening tools, predominantly a sharp garden spade or a saw. Make sure the garden tools are clean and sharp before starting the task.

The first step is to cut back the foliage in the fall. After harvesting asparagus, plants are left to grow into tall asparagus ferns, which put energy back into the clumps to develop next year’s spears. These ferns turn yellow and die in the fall - when they want to be cut back.

Next is to dig up the entire crown carefully, making sure not to slice through the roots. John Coykendall, Master Gardener at Blackberry Farm, warns: ‘Asparagus plants are deep-rooted, so be sure to dig deep enough to get the entire root system.’

Shake the soil off the lifted clump and look for any natural divisions in the crown. The crown can be divided into multiple sections, as long as any new piece has a selection of healthy roots and buds.

‘Depending on the size of the rooting system, you can expect to get several new rooting starts,’ adds John Coykendall. ‘Using a sharp spade, divide the roots into halves, quarters, or more depending on the clump’s size.’

Replant each section at least 18 inches apart into fertile, well-draining soil supplemented with compost or well-rotted manure. When you plant asparagus, they are commonly put into trenches with a small mound in the bottom - on which you sit the crown and spread out the roots.

Cover the new crowns with a few inches of soil and mulch the surface to retain moisture and suppress weeds. The new crowns want to be kept moist and not harvested for the first year. Leaving them to focus on building and storing energy will benefit you with stronger harvests in future years.

FAQs

Do asparagus crowns multiply?

Asparagus crowns do spread and multiply over the years, which can lead to asparagus beds becoming overcrowded. A cramped bed means less space for roots and fewer asparagus spears to harvest in spring - which is when dividing asparagus will be beneficial.

One of the prime windows to divide asparagus is late winter or early spring, which can also be an ideal time to fertilize asparagus. Giving newly planted and established crowns a feed just before growth starts in spring helps them perform at their best.

It can be as simple as adding a balanced fertilizer, such as this organic all-purpose fertilizer at Amazon, and lightly working it into the bed in early spring. When you grow asparagus, add feeding plants to your spring gardening checklist.

Sweet peas are amongst the most adored garden blooms. Floriferous, gloriously fragrant and available in a dazzling array of colors from softest cream to vibrant violet they never cease to captivate. An essential part of any English style or cottage garden, these climbing plants can scramble up trees, over fences or they can be carefully trained up obelisks to bring height, impact and romantic charm to the garden throughout the summer months.

Soaring up to 8 feet tall (2.4m), these impressive vines are definitely grown for their attention seeking blooms rather than their blue-grey stems and foliage.

One of the easiest flowers to grow from seed, annual sweet peas are hugely satisfying to grow, rewarding with a wealth of showy flowers emerging from the tiniest round seed, all within a matter of weeks. Sun loving, they require fertile soil and like their long roots to remain moist, but not waterlogged, if they are to produce endless flowers.

9 irresistible sweet pea varieties to grow

Discover which annual sweet peas are the most rewarding to grow. From the highly perfumed old fashioned types to the largest modern blooms designed to be cut and admired in a vase here is our expert edit of must-grow varieties.

The different types of sweet pea

There are endless varieties of the annual sweet pea Lathyrus odoratus to choose from and these are constantly being added too, thanks to avid breeders and the plant's willingness to mutate.

The known varieties are split into three different classifications: Old Fashioned varieties with smaller, non-frilled flowers; Spencer types which bear large, ornate blooms with frilly petals and Modern varieties which have been bred to produce large, simplified flowers on long straight stems, perfect for cutting.

Perennial or everlasting sweet pea Lathyrus latifolius reshoots every year, producing a mass of small white or rose pink, unscented flowers. Ideal for trailing over fences and trellis, it has a scrambling habit and there are around 20 varieties to choose from.

Lathyrus odoratus 'Jilly'

Lathyrus odoratus ‘Jilly’ with its generous wavy soft cream petals and yellow buds is a beautiful, scented sweet pea. Introduced in 1988 by Unwins, it is still regarded as one of the best, pale toned varieties to grow.

'Spencer sweet peas are known for their very long stems and large fragrant blossoms,' explains experienced sweet pea grower Glenys Johnson. 'The Spencer refers to the British Earl of Spencer and his gardener who first propagated these different sweet peas with large frilly-edged flowers.'

The main trick to growing sweet peas successfully is early planting. 'In Northern California where I live I start most of my sweet pea seeds in the fall,' continues Glenys. 'In colder climates where snow stays on the ground early starting of the seeds might be in January-March. Sweet peas are frost tolerant and hardy. They like it sunny and cold.' She also adds, 'Because early planting is key to growing sweet peas one of my favorite times in growing them is mid-winter watching the hopeful sprouting of my sweet pea.'

Lathyrus odoratus ‘Matucana'

Perhaps the sweet pea with the strongest fragrance, ‘Matucana' is an old-fashioned variety that dates back to 1699. With small but dazzling violet and crimson petals, it produces around four blooms per 6ft 5" (2m) stem.

Flowering continuously from early summer through to fall, they are hugely valuable to pollinators. Although sweet peas can suffer from mildew and other common problems, this variety is known for being more drought tolerant than others. Young sweet pea seedlings can prove irresistible to some small critters so it's worth learning how to stop mice from eating them.

Lathyrus odaratus Mammoth Rose Pink Ball

A beautifully clear pink, large flowered sweet pea perfect for cutting. Reaching heights of up to 6ft 5" (2m), this showy annual prefers a sunny spot in rich, well-drained soil. The long straight stems and generous blooms make it perfect for cutting and displaying indoors or in hand-tied bunch.

Encourage strong, bushy plants by pinching out each seedling’s growth tip after three or four pairs of leaves have formed. This will focus the plant’s energy into developing multiple, strong side stems and, ultimately, more blooms. Find Lathyrus odoratus Mammoth Rose Pink seeds at Burpee and Ball Seed Company.

Lathyrus odoratus 'Blue Shift'

Ask sweet pea growers for their favorite bloom and you are bound to hear the name ‘Blue Shift’. Once you’ve actually seen the flower in all it’s glory, it’s not hard to see why it is quite so mesmerising. Sweet pea grower and horticulturalist Georgina says, 'What sets this variety apart is its extraordinary ability to shift colors as the flowers mature - from delicate pinks and purples to mesmerizing blues and aquamarines. It’s like watching a living watercolor painting unfold right in front of you.'

Sweet pea grower Glenys Johnson is also a devotee saying, 'Even after cutting, Blue Shift continues to transform in the vase offering a spectacular color display. Very unique!'

Georgina encourages everyone to give these seeds a try, and adds, 'To get the most out of 'Blue Shift,' ensure it has access to full sun and well-drained soil. Sweet peas are heavy feeders, so regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer will keep them blooming beautifully. Also, remove spent flowers regularly to encourage the next wave of color. And make sure that they have plenty of water.'

Find Lathyrus odoratus 'Blue Shift' seeds at Enchanting Sweet Peas.com and Sweet Pea Gardens.

Lathyrus odoratus 'Spring Sunshine Lilac'

Sun loving and able to thrive in warm dry climates, this relatively new variety of sweet pea bears large softly waved petals in a delicate shade of lilac.

With stems reaching up to 6ft 5’’(2m) tall, this vigorous climber needs a strong support such as a sturdy trellis or tripod of hazel ‘pea’ sticks.

As with all sweet peas, this variety fixes nitrogen from the air into the soil. Encourage these plants to produce plentiful blooms by thoroughly preparing the soil, adding in well rotted manure, and feeding young plants with a dilute liquid feed that is high in potash and phosphate. Ensure that roots don't dry out. Water ground planted sweet peas every three or four days, and container grown plants every day or two.

Find Lathyrus odoratus 'Spring Sunshine Lilac' seeds available at Ball Seed Companyand Muller Seeds.

Lathyrus odoratus 'King Size Navy Blue'

Simply stunning, if you are after a bold sweet pea that will turn heads, this variety is for you. Big, blowsy with deepest blue - almost inky black - petals, this flower also has a glorious perfume, so you only need a few stems in a small vase to fragrance a room.

Bred to produce five frilled flowers on each long slender stem it makes a real impression when paired with paler sweet pea varieties and other cottage garden favorites. Make cut stems last longer in the vase by cutting them at angle, using sharp clean snips. Once back indoors, submerge the cut stems back in fresh, cold water and recut the base – again at an angle – ½ inch (2.5cm) above to prevent air bubbles forming.

Lathyrus odoratus 'Fire and Ice'

With their delicate soft pink petals tinted with violet, this large flowering sweet pea is a modern blend of large flowers on long straight stems. Perfect for cutting and arranging in a vase, it’s a prolific flowerer, just be sure to snip of spent blooms regularly to ensure the plant’s energy goes into bud rather than seed production.

Loved by garden pollinators, it also has many fans across the flower farmers, florists and sweet pea fanatics. 'This is a modern grandiflora variety that produce masses of dark pink and purple blooms. Fire and Ice is one of my favorite varieties for the showy, contrasting flower blooms that are slightly ruffled,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This is one of the most fragrant varieties but do avoid positioning in hot afternoon sun for best results.'

Lathyrus odoratus 'Blue Celeste'

When most gardeners think about sweet peas, chances are they are picturing the Spencer varieties. Ruffled, fragrant and deliciously flamboyant they epitomise the fleeting beauty and charm of summery cottage gardens.

'My favorite sweet pea variety are the tall vining ‘Spencer’ varieties. They have especially pretty, large, ruffled blooms in almost every color,' says Glenys. 'If you’re after fragrance check the seed packets, some are very fragrant, and some only mildly so. Of the Spencer’s’, Blue Celeste with their pastel lavender color and strong, delightful fragrance are my favorite.'

Get set for a spectacular display of sweet peas by either investing in plant nursery grown seedlings or try germinating your own. Learning how to sow and raise sweet pea seeds is fairly straightforward, and these plants take around three weeks to germinate, but there is a debate over how to best prepare the seeds. Peggy Anne Montgomery says, 'While some people disagree about this I soak my seeds in water overnight.' Other experts suggest nicking the hard seed case with a sharp knife, while others simply sow the round seeds direct from the packet.

Peggy Anne also offers this advice for getting the most from these gorgeous plants. 'Plant in early spring before the first frost in rich soil. Pick them when two flowers are open for the longest vase time. These tall vining varieties will grow up nearly anything. Sweet peas are poisonous use caution around children and pets.'

Lathyrus odoratus 'Wiltshire Ripple'

A Spencer type sweet pea, these large wavy flowers have the most breathtakingly delicate markings and fine outline - known as picotee - in deep blackcurrant and claret set against soft ivory. With a painterly appearance the blooms are loved by pollinators, attracted in part by the heady perfume. They also look stunning trained over arches, walls and trellis and will do wonders surrounding a veggie patch, enticing bees and other helpful insects to visit.

Reaching heights of around 5ft 9’’(180cm), seeds take just 10-14 days to germinate and can be planted in rootrainers – such as this Deep Rootrainer kit from Walmart – to encourage strong, deep roots to form.

After reading this edit of which sweet pea varieties to grow you will surely be inspired to fill your summer garden with these delightful and colorful blooms. To add to your growing list, why not discover which are the easiest flowers to grow from seed and learn how to germinate seeds successfully in our expert guides.

During spring and summer, bottlebrush blooms are a common sight in many front and backyards. In warmer states, such as California, Arizona and Texas, these sun-loving plants thrive, producing masses of vibrant flowers that are impossible to ignore.

These tropical-looking blooms will complement any colorful flower border, but for smaller spaces, learning how to grow bottlebrush trees in pots is a good option. So long as the drainage and lighting requirements are met, these resilient shrubs will adapt well to container culture.

So, whether you are a seasoned shrub grower or perhaps looking to add something new to your pot displays this year, our guide on how to grow a bottlebrush plant in a pot has all the information you need to succeed.

How to grow bottlebrush trees in pots

Native to Australia, bottlebrush trees thrive in sunny and warm regions, typically growing well between US hardiness zone 8 to US hardiness zone 10, where the winters are mild and the summers are hot. While they are low-maintenance plants, there are a few rules to follow when learning how to grow bottlebrush trees in pots.

Growing advice for bottlebrush trees in pots

'Growing bottlebrush trees in pots can be a rewarding experience, filling yards with colorful brush-like blooms that are adored by pollinators,' says Tatiana Anderson, plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals.

'In general, these are low-maintenance plants and there are very few bottlebrush tree problems to be worried about. However, there are a handful of rules to abide by when growing in containers. Remember that bottlebrushes, or Callistemon spp., do best in warmer US hardiness zones, so stick to zone 8 and above,' Tatiana adds.

These are some of the best flowering shrubs for full sun, so be sure to position your pot in an open location, ideally with six to eight hours of sunshine each day. If you are rolling the dice and growing in a cooler, northerly region, ensure that your pot receives as much sunshine as possible, as the plant will be more exposed when compared to growing in the ground.

'These plants prefer well-draining soil,' Tatiana says, 'and while they are relatively tolerant of poor soil conditions, a sandy or loamy soil with good drainage is ideal, which is particularly important when growing in pots. If you notice water sitting on the surface of your container, the drainage hole may be blocked or the soil might need improving.'

When growing in pots, regular feeding and watering is important. While bottlebrush trees grown in the ground will become self-sufficient, specimens that are planted in pots will need regular maintenance. Remember that pot plants rely on you, the gardener, for all their water and nutrient needs, so be sure to water during the summer. During warmer spells, this can be as much as twice a week.

'While bottle brush trees do not require heavy fertilization, applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to pots just once in the spring can promote healthier growth and more abundant blooms,' Tatiana adds.

Bottlebrush tree varieties to grow in pots

Before planting a bottlebrush tree in a container, think carefully about the variety you want to grow. While all bottlebrush trees can be grown in pots, larger, standard species can grow upwards of 20 feet when fully established, although their size will be restricted in containers.

Standard species will require more pruning in the years to come, whereas smaller varieties will be easier to maintain and manage. One dwarf variety, 'Little John', available from Walmart, is a popular option for smaller yards, growing no more than three feet tall and wide.

For an unusual variety, try growing the 'Honeypot' variety, as seen in the image above, which produces unusual yellow flowers. While this is one of the easiest evergreen trees to grow, 'Honeypot' can reach upwards of nine feet tall, so a larger pot will help it reach its full potential.

Whatever variety you decide on, be sure to use a pot that is a few inches wider than the nursery container, providing some room to grow for the first year. Looking ahead, it is best to repot your bottlebrush plants into a larger vessel once every three years.

FAQs

Are there any problems to look out for when growing bottlebrush trees in pots?

'Bottlebrush trees are generally pest and problem-free, although one issue to look out for when growing in pots is root rot,' says Tatiana. 'These plants need good drainage and can be susceptible to root rot if overwatered. Ensure that your pot has plenty of grit or sand to avoid waterlogging.'

Positioning two or three bottlebrush pots together can help to create an evergreen privacy barrier, windbreak, or container hedge that is perfect for pollinators during the growing season.

As Tatiana says: 'The nectar-rich bottlebrush flowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds, particularly hummingbirds, making for an excellent option for a garden designed to support local wildlife.' For more wildlife gardening inspiration, see our guide on the best hedges for pollinators.

January is an ideal time to prune some of the most popular backyard shrubs and trees. However, while it is good for some it is not beneficial for all. Indeed, there are plants to never prune in January as trimming can harm their health and ruin any potential flowering displays.

Pruning at the right time of year keeps plants productive and flourishing - it means fantastic blooms or fruits and healthy regrowth. But get it wrong and prune at the incorrect time, and the consequences can be devastating. Not only will you miss out on blooms, your shrubs or trees could also be left susceptible to winter frosts, pests, or diseases.

We previously looked at plants to prune in January, but now the focus moves on plants not to trim. There is a wide selection of plants to never prune in January that we have grouped into categories. This can help you avoid falling foul of pruning at the wrong time of year.

The type of trees and shrubs to not prune this month

The following trees and shrubs are not plants to prune in spring. We explain why you should not prune them this month and reveal when the recommended windows to trim are.

1. Spring flowerers

Spring-flowering shrubs in a backyard bring color, texture, and scent to a space earlier in the year. They bring us seasonal delight and are crucial for early pollinators when they emerge from winter hibernation.

Lilacs, forsythia, azaleas, dogwood, witch hazel, and more can fill a backyard with blooms in spring - providing they are pruned at the right time.

Always prune these flowering shrubs after they have bloomed, never in winter. Trimming this month would be a pruning mistake, and cutting off the buds will result in no flowers come spring.

2. Stone fruit

Winter is a time to prune many fruit trees, but not all. While apples, pears, quince, and medlars are fruit trees to prune in winter, stone fruit should not be pruned this month.

Pruning plums, apricots, peaches or cherries should be done in spring or summer, rather than winter, to avoid diseases such as silver leaf and bacterial canker.

Silver leaf is a potentially devastating fungal disease that gets into the tree via pruning wounds - and it can kill a tree. The spores are more prevalent in winter and avoiding pruning at this time is a simple control method to prevent susceptible fruit trees falling victim to it.

3. Bleeder trees

There are many trees to prune in January as the month can be an ideal time to prune many deciduous trees. Some trees known as ‘bleeder trees’ are best to avoid pruning in January, however, as they will bleed sap heaving after trimming. This group includes the likes of maples, birch, elm, walnut, and yellowwood trees.

When a tree bleeds sap it is weakened and will attract insects that can potentially carry diseases or fungal spores. It is especially damaging when pruning tree branches with a diameter over three inches, as this can mean large-scale loss of sap.

The recommended time to prune such bleeder trees is in late spring or early summer, when they can best cope with the loss of sap and will heal quickly as they are actively growing.

4. Woody herbs

Woody herbs such as rosemary, lavender, and thyme need annual pruning to control their size and produce lots of aromatic foliage for cooking, beauty, or medicinal purposes. Regular trimming keeps these aromatic herbs bushy, rather than spreading and getting leggy or woody, and productive.

It would be a herb gardening mistake to prune rosemary or trim lavender in the middle of winter. Doing so could jeopardize the health of the plants. Plants are hardy down to US hardiness zone 5, but pruning this month can reduce the overall hardiness and leave pruning wounds that frosts can penetrate. Extreme colds may cause irreparable damage to the center of the plant.

To avoid unnecessarily harming woody herbs, hold off pruning any plants in your herb garden or herb planters until you see new growth appearing in spring.

5. Evergreen shrubs

The best time to prune evergreens is generally early spring and late summer. Regular trimming keeps the size and shape of evergreen shrubs controlled and encourages healthy growth.

Pruning in winter is not recommended as evergreens may struggle to have the energy to survive if severely trimmed. They do not store energy in their roots for winter and therefore need to produce food year-round.

There will be no regrowth from January pruning, unless you live in warmer US hardiness zones, so the shrub can be hampered by trimming. Evergreens can also suffer from frost getting into pruning cuts and die-back from winter pruning.

As for when to prune shrubs, trim evergreens once the risk of frosts has ended and they are putting on new growth. Prune spring flowering shrubs after blooming, as mentioned earlier, and summer flowering shrubs in late winter or early spring.

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FAQs

Is it okay to cut my lawn in January?

It is not usually necessary to mow a lawn in winter. The grass does not grow over winter and you can cause damage by mowing a frosty or overly wet lawn. Indeed, in many climates, it is best to avoid walking on grass during the winter months as it can cause soil compaction and damage to grass blades if the lawn is frozen.

If you live in a warmer climate and the grass starts growing in January, it is okay to cut the lawn. However, take care when doing so - only mow if the conditions are right and raise your mower blades to cut at a high height. The best time to start mowing a lawn in spring is when the grass reaches three inches tall.

Even if a tree or shrub can be pruned in January, there are still some conditions when it is best to avoid trimming. That includes extreme cold, which can cause dieback as frosts get into pruning cuts and weaken the tree. If you do live in a climate which has extreme winter colds, hold off pruning until late winter or early spring.