As the garden really starts to fill up in June, there can be an urge to cut things back in an attempt to wrestle back control. While there are shrubs, perennials, and hedges that will benefit from a trim now, others won’t. Here are some plants to never prune in June, and why.

Summer bloomers rank high on the plants not to prune this month, for the simple reason that you’ll lose flowers. Add to that, some gardeners might not want to prune shrubs that flower in spring, as missing the boat means you’ll affect next year’s display. The consequences of improper pruning can stretch further than no blooms, though, as oak and elm trees are at risk of fatal diseases if they are pruned this month.

Knowing the right plants to prune in June ensures your garden remains beautiful and healthy. And understanding what not to prune in summer prevents missing out on flowers or unnecessarily putting trees at risk. Let’s take a look at four groups of plants to never prune in June, and see how many feature in your yard.

1. Summer-Blooming Plants

This one will just make sense to any gardener, but it warrants mentioning just in case. I know I might be teaching you to suck eggs, but there is no wisdom in pruning shrubs that burst into show in summer.

Any flowering shrub that naturally produces its flowers in summer will have spent many months forming buds and developing growth all in anticipation of blossoming. Why let them go through all that, only to prune them back before they’ve put on a show?

Any pruning this month will inhibit the display of flowers. You’ll merely remove flower buds – so don’t do it. This guidance covers panicle hydrangea, butterfly bush, rose of Sharon, crepe myrtle, hibiscus, smoke bush, potentilla, bluebeard, and many more.

If in doubt, remember the general rule of thumb that any plants that bloom from June onwards should be pruned in late winter or early spring, and not in summer. If it flowers before June, prune it after flowering.

It is not just shrubs that this applies to; the pruning guidance also covers perennial plants and flowering climbers that bloom in summer, like clematis, honeysuckle, passionflower, and star jasmine. These are all plants to never prune in June, too.

2. Trees at Risk of Disease

Losing flowers is bad enough, but there are some pruning mistakes you can potentially make this month that can have much more serious consequences.

One such error to avoid is pruning oak trees; these statuesque beauties should NEVER be pruned in June. If you trim an oak in early summer, the tree will bleed sap and attract pests that can carry oak wilt (Ceratocystis fagacearum).

The devastating fungal disease can quickly kill trees, potentially within months. It is a serious issue across the US, and it affects almost all types of oak. Only ever prune oaks during their dormancy, when the beetles that carry the fungus aren’t active.

The same guidance applies to pruning elm trees. The elm bark beetle carries the fatal Dutch elm disease, which is responsible for the death of millions of elms in Europe and North America. These beetles are attracted to the pruning cuts when active in spring and summer.

You should only ever prune elms in winter. Indeed, some states have restrictions on when elms can be trimmed. These are put in place to protect tree populations, so check any regulations for where you live.

Finally, trees at risk of the bacterial disease fireblight should not be pruned in early summer. That includes crabapples, mountain ash, and hawthorns.

3. Spring-Flowering Shrubs

This one isn’t a one-size-fits-all warning. Indeed, spring-flowering shrubs will only be plants to never prune in June if you live in warmer climates, while gardeners in colder zones may actually need to trim early this month.

We’re talking about the likes of rhododendron, azalea, forsythia, lilac, weigela, viburnum, and camellia. And it all comes down to when your spring-flowering shrubs bloom.

All these plants want to be pruned right after they finish flowering, as they start developing next year’s buds quickly after this year’s blooms end. If you wait too long to head out with the pruning tools, you can all too easily cut off next year’s buds.

If your shrubs are only just coming to the end of their show, then go ahead and prune – but be prompt about it.

If yours finished earlier in the spring, certainly anything more than a few weeks ago, it might be better to leave trimming for this year rather than depleting next spring’s display.

Prune if you might, but accept you’ll get fewer flowers – you have been warned.

4. Trees Vulnerable to Sap Loss

There are some trees known as ‘bleeder trees’ for their tendency to lose lots of sap when they are pruned. This list includes maples, birches, and walnuts.

In early summer, these trees have high sap pressure and will bleed large amounts of sap if they are pruned this month. While losing sap won’t necessarily kill a tree, it does weaken it and leave it more susceptible to pests and diseases.

If you wonder when to prune trees that are known to bleed lots of sap, the best course of action is to trim them in mid-to-late summer, when the sap flow isn’t as high.

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Let’s turn things around to end with. Rather than telling you what not to do this month, let’s look at what you can do in June.

The good news is that there is a lot you can plant in June, including fast-growing annual flowers, biennials to bloom next year, quick crops for summer pickings, and vegetables you’ll be harvesting in winter.

It really is a rich month for transforming flower beds and vegetable gardens, so why not get out, take advantage of the good weather, and get planting?

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Knowing what and what not to prune in May mostly comes down to when a plant flowers. It sounds simple, and it often is. When it comes to shrubs, trees, and climbers, if they flower in spring and have finished, prune them. If they are still flowering or yet to reach their potential, keep those pruning tools away.

That is a very general overview of plants to prune in May, but it applies to many plants. In addition to pruning spring-flowering plants that have finished blooming, you can also cut back perennials before they bloom for a better display come summer. Plus, May is also an opportune time to trim evergreens.

Before you head out and chop in earnest, this guide to plants to prune in May reveals what needs your attention and which ones to keep the tools away from this month. It contains advice for pruning shrubs, trees, climbers, perennials, flowers, and hedges to add to any spring gardening checklist.

Plants to Prune in May

Spring-Flowering Shrubs

One of the key plants to prune in May is spring-flowering shrubs. The beauties have done their flowering for the year, and now is the time to show them some love so they put on a repeat performance next year.

Shrubs like forsythia, lilac, azalea, rhododendron, Mexican orange blossom, weigelia, and kerria all want pruning right after they have finished blooming. Once the flowers fade, it is time for action. That action is justified, as these shrubs flower on old wood. So the growth you encourage by pruning this month carries next spring’s buds and flowers.

Spring pruning of these flowering shrubs predominantly involves removing dead, diseased, damaged, and crossing branches. Always cut back to a bud or to the base to encourage fresh, productive, new growth. For older shrubs, remove one or two of the oldest stems, but no more than one-third.

Herbaceous Perennials

There is a pruning method known in the UK as The Chelsea Chop, where perennials are cut back in May to coincide with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.

A range of the best perennials can be chopped by a third, and there is a real method to the madness. This pruning technique encourages bushier growth, less flopping during summer, and more flowers as the plant develops lots of side shoots.

Perennials in your flower beds that may benefit from this pruning technique in late May include helenium, phlox, coneflower, black-eyed Susan, sedum, aster, yarrow, hardy geraniums, and monarda. If you are nervous about trying this out, you can cut certain clumps and not others, or even do half of a clump and leave the rest.

The method is easy. Use a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears and chop back the perennial by between a third and a half.

Evergreen Hedges

May is a good month to trim evergreen shrubs and hedges, but lightly. After the frosts have ended, it is a perfect time to tidy and shape hedges and shrubs, including boxwood, yew, cypress, and privet.

Spring trimming removes winter damage and stimulates fresh new growth. Cut back up to 20%, and the hedge will bounce back with fast growth to cover any pruning cuts and keep it looking lush for summer.

Sharp pruning tools are a must for pruning evergreen hedges. Blunt tools will bruise leaves or cause a jagged tear. This leaves an unsightly hedge afterwards, and can be avoided by taking a moment to sharpen your tools before heading out.

This can be done quickly with a pocket-sized tool sharpener, like this garden tool sharpener at Amazon.

Early Climbers

Just like spring-flowering shrubs, early-flowering climbers should be pruned after they have finished flowering.

That includes early types of clematis, such as clematis montana. Once early clematis, a group which also includes C. alpina, C. macropetala, and C. cirrhosa, finish flowering, overgrown stems benefit from being untangled and cut back to a pair of healthy buds.

Other climbers to prune in May include abelia, akebia, winter-flowering lonicera, and any wall-trained pyracantha.

Another essential May job for climbers is tying in new growth. The stems are growing rapidly in spring, so take time to train new shoots to their climbing plant supports. Use soft ties to prevent damaging stems – I have often used flexible ties like these at Amazon to tie in climbers safely.

Spring Bulbs

This task divides opinion in the horticultural world, so we’ll leave it up to you whether you do it in May. All in all, there are benefits to deadheading spring bulbs, but it is not always an essential task.

After the flowers have faded from your daffodils, hyacinths, or tulips, deadhead them to focus the energy into the bulb rather than into producing seeds. This can make a difference to next year’s display.

Remove the old blooms, but don’t cut back the foliage. The stems and leaves should be left for at least six weeks after flowering to keep photosynthesizing and feeding the bulb. Only cut the foliage once it has fully died back naturally.

You see some gardeners tie the foliage into knots. Do not do this, as it actively limits the sunlight and restricts photosynthesis. For the strongest flowers next spring, cut the blooms and don’t touch the foliage.

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Plants to Never Prune in May

Plants That Are Blooming

In May, there can be spring-flowering shrubs and trees still in bloom. It is a massive waste to prune these while they are still flowering.

The same can be said for any plants that flower in spring but are yet to reach their full blooming potential this year – you risk removing flowering buds if you trim now.

Any plants in your yard that flower in spring will flower on old wood, so the rule to remember is that you prune them after they finish blooming for the year.

Spring-Flowering Perennials

Lots of perennials burst into color in spring, providing early color in gardens. Don’t be in too much of a rush to prune back these spring-flowering perennials, as it can impact next year’s display.

The likes of bleeding heart, columbine, and hellebore are best left to die back naturally. Doing so gives the plant lots of time to store energy for next year’s display.

In the case of columbine and other self-seeders, removing the blooms too soon reduces the chances of spreading. While this may be ideal for some gardeners, others may like new flowers to appear next year.

Bleeder Trees

Some trees come with a reputation for bleeding sap in early spring. Indeed, the likes of maple, birch, beech, elm, and walnut trees are coined ‘bleeder trees’ for their tendency to ooze sap from pruning cuts at certain times of year.

Spring is when the sap is rising at its peak, and pruning them this month will not only be messy but also risk leaving the trees stressed and susceptible to pests or diseases. It is better to hold fire and prune these trees in midsummer.

Hedges With Nesting Birds

May is prime bird nesting season, so it is recommended to pause hedge-cutting to avoid disturbing them.

The Migratory Bird Treaty Act makes it illegal to disturb or destroy active native bird nests, and this time of year is when many birds will be building or settling into their nests.

As hedges and shrubs can be prime real estate for birds due to the shelter and protection they offer, any pruning that disturbs these nests can land you in trouble and see you face potential penalties or fines.

There is a strong likelihood of frequent storms across some regions of the US during May. If you live in such affected areas, it is beneficial to prepare by looking out for and pruning tree branches that could come down during storms. Once the worst of the weather has passed, check again for any branches or stems that look precarious and remove them as required.

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It might sound cliché, but a gardener is only as good as their tools – and since spring is finally here, now is the time to invest in some quality kit.

If you're on the market for a new pruning saw, there's no shortage of options to suit every budget, but my advice is to pick something that's guaranteed to last. A combination of efficiency and durability is key, which is why I've purchased this mini Japanese pruning saw, available at Amazon.

This essential pruning tool is small but mighty, making it ideal for getting into those tricky areas while tending to small trees and shrubs. Plus, it will take up minimal space in your toolkit, and it's lightweight enough to use without tiring yourself out.

Why Invest in a Mini Pruning Saw?

No matter what kind of landscaping work you're taking on this spring, Japanese gardening tools are a brilliant choice.

In fact, pruning saws like this one have been relied upon by centuries of gardeners, primarily because the pull-stroke design allows for fast, efficient sawing without fear of built-up debris. (The Suizan saw, which you can also find on Amazon, is a slightly bigger alternative.)

Shop around for a pruning saw, and you'll quickly find something with a razor-sharp blade and a folding handle, but this mini saw is a little different. The crosscut teeth deliver precise cuts with minimal effort, sliding cleanly through tough branches and dense foliage.

Then, of course, there's the benefit of a compact saw. It's tempting to reach for huge, ultra-powerful tools when you're battling a difficult gardening job, but large saws can be unwieldy and, ultimately, impractical.

It might seem counterintuitive, but a smaller saw can be much more efficient, especially when it comes to those seemingly inaccessible areas between branches. A mini saw will help you reach into tight corners and trim down crowded canopies without too much hassle.

Plus, if your shed is beginning to resemble a gardening outlet store, it might be time to organize your tools – and smaller gadgets are always a good idea.

Naturally, a mini pruning saw won't be perfect for every task, but it will help you get tricky tasks done without sacrificing valuable storage space. (It would even fit in a gardening apron, like this one from Terrain; keep it in a pocket and you would hardly know it was there.)

Why Shoppers Love This Mini Japanese Saw

Japanese tools are enduringly popular among gardeners, and this mini saw is no different.

'The blade is sharp, precise, and perfectly balanced for comfortable handling,' says one shopper. 'It tackles branches that other small saws struggle with, yet it’s still nimble enough for finer trimming work.'

'The pull cut design gives you more control, especially in tight spots where a larger saw would be awkward,' adds another shopper. 'The handle feels solid and comfortable even during longer trimming sessions, and the saw really does leave a smooth cut surface, which matters if you are trying to help a tree heal properly.'

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For more advice on gardening tools, check out our guide on deadheading mistakes, or take a look at our tips on how to use a pruning saw.

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Many ornamental and fruit trees can benefit from pruning in April, but not all of them. Indeed, you can do serious harm by trimming at the wrong time. On that note, we reveal seven trees to never prune in April to prevent homeowners from causing any unnecessary damage to trees on their property.

Deciduous trees, especially those that are yet to emerge from dormancy, and late-summer flowering trees can be done in early spring. However, trees that flower in spring and those that bleed sap or are susceptible to pests in April are best left alone. You do still need to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches when required (such as after a spring storm) to keep them healthy, but larger-scale pruning is not recommended.

You can see our guide to plants to prune in April, but here the focus is on trees to never prune in April. Homeowners with these in their yard should not take any pruning tools to them except in urgent situations. Here we reveal the dangers of pruning this month, and when the proper window for trimming is.

1. Dogwood

Dogwood trees bloom in early to mid-spring, between late March and mid-May, depending on the variety and your climate. If you prune dogwood trees in April, you can be damaging this year’s display of showy blooms.

When growing and caring for dogwood trees, learn when it wakes up in spring and its usual flowering period. As they flower on old wood, they produce buds the previous season that burst into flowers come spring.

For a great display each year, add two tasks to your spring gardening checklist. Fertilize dogwood trees just as the new leaves are unfurling, and prune them after flowering.

Feed dogwoods with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants, like this acid mix at Walmart.

2. Flowering Cherry

A flowering cherry is almost universally adored as the best tree for spring blossom. They bloom in March and April, often peaking in early to mid-April, but the exact timing varies due to the type, location, and seasonal weather conditions.

It may sound obvious, but it would be foolish to prune a flowering cherry tree that has yet to bloom or is still flowering. You would only be removing this year’s blossom. Prune flowering cherries after the blooming is done for the year, in late spring or early summer. It gives the tree lots of time to develop next year’s buds.

Pruning in summer also helps to avoid silver leaf, a fungal disease that affects ornamental and fruiting cherry trees. The spores are more prevalent in colder months and access the tree through pruning wounds.

3. Oaks

Statuesque oak trees can last for centuries, but one way to cut short the lifespan of an oak is to prune it in April. Oak wilt, a serious fungal disease, is prevalent in spring and early summer, as active beetles carry spores from tree to tree.

It is destructive and present in over 25 eastern and midwestern US states, killing thousands of trees each year. An infected tree can quickly lose its foliage and die within 4-6 weeks.

Avoid pruning oak trees in spring and summer when sap-feeding pests are more active and spreading the disease. Keep oak pruning to late winter, when the beetles are less active.

4. Japanese Maple

Knowing when to prune Japanese maple trees avoids stressing the tree. The stunning trees never need lots of pruning, as their natural shape is so elegant. But when any varieties of Japanese maples do need trimming, do it when the trees are dormant.

The tree has a reputation for bleeding sap if pruned during active growth, and the sap of Japanese maples starts to rise early in spring. If you prune in April, the tree will bleed sap profusely.

This will not ultimately kill the tree, but it is undesirable. Not only does it make a mess and look unattractive, but it also stresses the tree and leaves it more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Another tip for trimming a Japanese maple tree is to use a light touch. They get easily stressed by pruning, so never remove more than 20% at a time.

5. Birch

Birch trees are popular trees thanks to their elegant foliage and unusual peeling bark. It is another ornamental tree that needs to be pruned at the right time of year to avoid pest problems.

April is the wrong time to prune birch trees; the right time is late winter. Pruning birches in spring only results in the tree bleeding sap and getting stressed. This puts it in danger of the bronze birch borer, a wood-boring pest that targets all birch species and is particularly attracted to stressed or weakened trees.

The larvae of the beetle cause huge damage as they feed on the tree's vascular system, which moves water and nutrients. The leaves can discolor and fall, the branches die back, and the tree ultimately starves to death.

6. Lilac

Lilac trees produce their fragrant, conical blooms in spring. Growing lilacs rewards homeowners with a display that often starts in April or May, depending on the variety and climate, and lasts for around three weeks.

The time to prune lilacs comes around flowering, in late spring or early summer. Removing the blooms within a few weeks of the flowers ending stops seed production and focuses the plant’s energy on surviving summer and developing next year’s flower buds.

As for how to prune lilacs post-flowering, deadhead any spent blooms, remove dead, damaged, diseased, or rubbing stems, and get rid of any suckers around the base of the tree.

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We’ve covered what you shouldn’t do this month in the shape of trees to never prune in April, but what about fun gardening jobs you can do this spring? Well, our guides to flowers to plant in April and vegetables to plant in April reveal lots of seeds you can sow this month.

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No matter how much time you spend in the garden, at some point you'll have to tackle a pruning job – and you'll want to be well-prepared.

To me, it all comes down to investing in a high-quality pruning saw. Every gardener needs a suitable set of tools, and a pruning saw is a serious piece of kit – so it's worth finding one that you can rely on.

My advice? Consider a Japanese pruning saw. These handsome blades combine ancient craftsmanship with ergonomic design, proving that traditional tools really are timeless. Drew Swainston, Content Editor at Homes & Gardens, recommends the SUIZAN pruning saw, and right now you can find it for just $38 at Amazon.

Why the SUIZAN Pruning Saw is a Great Choice

If you're looking to upgrade your pruning saw, you'll know that the options are endless, and it isn't always easy to make a decision. According to Drew, however, Japanese gardening tools like the SUIZAN saw are always a safe bet.

'Traditional pruning tools have stood the test of time, and there is a reason they continue to be used today,' he reflects. 'They really have proven effective for gardeners for centuries.'

The SUIZAN saw features a Japanese steel blade with a rust-resistant plating. It certainly looks impressive, but the traditional design is what sets it apart: you'll spot a set of backward-facing teeth and a large gullet which helps to remove sawdust.

You can use the base of the blade to chop thick trunks without risk of clogging, while the tip of the blade features narrower teeth which are perfect for cutting thin branches.

'Japanese pruning saws traditionally feature a pull-stroke design and backward-facing teeth,' explains Drew.

'The backward teeth and U-shaped space between prevents clogging, reduces wasted effort, and ensures a smoother cutting experience. Couple this with a super-sharp tapered blade, and these saws make light work of pruning large tree branches.'

While many essential pruning tools like saws are complete with a sharp blade, a truly impressive saw needs an ergonomic handle, too. This is what makes Japanese tools so efficient: the SUIZAN saw has a curved non-slip handle to help make pruning not only quick, but comfortable.

'Such traditional designs are still copied in modern Japanese pruning tools, as they are proven to be efficient,' says Drew. 'They cut effortlessly, and the pull-cut motion reduces fatigue, allowing gardeners to prune for longer without overly exerting themselves.'

Why Shoppers Love the SUIZAN Saw

We might be huge fans of Japanese tools here at Homes & Gardens, but it's safe to say that Amazon customers love the SUIZAN saw, too.

'Japanese pruning saws are great, this one included!' reads one review. 'It's so light – and way more efficient than lugging around even a lightweight chain saw.'

Some reviewers note that the blade is thinner than alternative saws, but many describe this as a helpful feature – particularly when it comes to cutting speed.

'This saw is very handy and it cuts very good,' reads another review. 'Fine craftsmanship. It fits into places a bow saw can’t.'

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Looking for more pruning wisdom? We asked experts to share the most common pruning mistakes – and how to avoid them.

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April is a month for pruning summer-flowering shrubs, evergreen hedges, old perennials, ornamental grasses, and trees that remain dormant in colder climates. However, timing is crucial, and any pruning must be done at the right time, especially during periods of changeable and potentially extreme weather.

The recent weather in the US has been highly variable, with different regions seeing different extremes. There have been severe storms in the Midwest, cold snaps in the Northeast, and record-breaking heat in the Southwest. It continues to look unstable for April, but warmer than average across much of the country. However, more extreme weather is not out of the question, with storms, dry and hot spells, and drought a distinct possibility.

Here we look at the plants to prune in April, and how the weather should affect your spring gardening checklist. We also reveal what not to prune in spring, and the conditions in which you should not head out with the pruning tools.

Plants to Prune in April

Summer-Flowering Shrubs

One of the key groups of plants to prune in spring is summer-flowering shrubs. This includes the likes of roses, butterfly bush, crepe myrtle, beautyberry, rose of Sharon, and new-wood hydrangeas (like panicle and smooth hydrangea varieties, but not all hydrangeas).

Summer-flowering deciduous shrubs produce their buds and bloom on new wood produced this season. And knowing what type of wood they flower on is vital in knowing when to prune shrubs.

New-wood bloomers want trimming early in the season to give them lots of time to develop stems to carry that season’s flowers. Shrubs that flower on old wood are trimmed after flowering, in late spring or early summer, to have the rest of the season to develop the stems to carry next year’s display.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears (I have a trusty pair of Felco pruners that have lasted me for over a decade of professional gardening so far, and you can get a pair of Felco F2 pruners at Amazon) to remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as crossing, weak, or congested growth. April is also the chance to gently shape the shrub to get it looking in top form for the season ahead.

Deciduous Trees

In cooler regions, there can still be time to prune trees before they fully emerge from dormancy. Any deciduous ornamental or fruit trees still in need of a bit of attention can be trimmed before the new season's growth really kicks in. In an ideal world, any ornamental or fruit tree pruning will be done before the buds fully open or the trees leaf out.

Removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches can help to keep the canopy healthy, and pruning fruit trees in spring rewards you with a better harvest later in the season. In terms of fruit trees, remember to prune apples, pears, and figs, but not stone fruits, so leave cherries, apricots, plums, and peaches alone to avoid silver leaf disease.

To prune tree branches, you may need something with a bit more cutting power than pruning shears. A quality pair of loppers (like these extendable bypass loppers at Walmart) can cut branches 1-2 inches in diameter, and a pruning saw can be used for those 2-5 inches wide.

Ornamental Grasses

If you grow ornamental grasses and haven’t yet cut them back, you should do so quickly at the start of April. The ideal time to cut back deciduous ornamental grasses is late winter or early spring. The plants offer structure and shelter in a winter wildlife garden, but need trimming ahead of the new season.

Cutting back before new growth starts coming through in spring is ideal. The longer you leave it, the more you risk accidentally trimming away emerging new shoots. So if you haven’t done it yet, the sooner you can in April, the better, as it reduces your chances of damaging the new growth.

Gather all the old stems together and cut them down as close to the base as possible, to within a few inches of the ground. But keep a close eye on any new stems, and try not to cut the emerging ones. It may be easier said than done, depending on your climate.

A pair of thick gardening gloves, like these leather gauntlets at Amazon, is crucial when pruning grasses to avoid cutting your hands.

Old Perennials

Any old perennial plants left in your flower beds now want cutting back for spring. Whether the growth was left in place to provide shelter for wildlife or to insulate the crowns against freezing temperatures, it needs to be removed when new growth is starting to appear at the base of the plant.

Cut back old stems with a pair of pruning shears, cutting as close to the base as possible. If new shoots are showing at the base, cut an inch above this to avoid damaging them.

Clear away any old foliage or debris that may be harboring bacteria or fungi that can affect new growth, then mulch around the plants with organic matter.

Evergreen Shrubs and Hedges

April is an ideal month for pruning evergreen shrubs and hedges, provided the risk of frost has passed for your climate.

These low-maintenance shrubs can be shaped and trimmed in early to mid-spring. This timing stops frosts from damaging new shoots, and gives the shrub ample time to recover and grow before the main season – plus the pruning cuts will quickly get hidden by the new spring growth.

For shrubs, use a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears to create a natural look, something you cannot achieve with a hedge trimmer. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood and shape the shrub as required. But work lightly, and don’t remove more than a third of the growth.

The plants will benefit from feeding with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer after pruning, courtesy of a product like this all-purpose plant food at Burpee, as well as mulching to retain moisture in the soil.

Trees Pre and Post-Storms

Ahead of any storms, it is advisable to check trees and tall shrubs on your property for dead, damaged, or weak branches that may potentially come down and do damage. Removing these branches reduces the risk of harm to property or people and can help to open the canopy.

A more open canopy allows wind to pass through it, reducing the potential for broken limbs or uprooting.

After a storm, observe your trees for any signs of broken or hanging branches and remove them to prevent them from falling and doing damage.

An extendable pole saw like this Fiskars tree pruner and pole saw at Amazon can be used to remove smaller branches from high in the canopy. However, larger or more dangerous limbs are best dealt with by professional arborists.

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What Not to Prune This April

Spring-Flowering Shrubs

This one may sound plain to see, but don’t prune spring-flowering shrubs that haven’t finished blooming for the year. Stand back and enjoy the blooms, rather than making a pruning mistake you’ll regret later.

Whether they bloom in early spring, such as forsythia, or later in the season, such as mock orange or weigela, any spring-flowering shrubs require trimming after their show has finished for the year.

These shrubs flower on old wood. As mentioned earlier, pruning after flowering gives these shrubs lots of time to put energy into developing new growth to form buds and carry next spring’s display.

Pruning before this year’s display has ended, or before it has really gotten going, simply deprives you of spring blooms to enjoy. Remember this simple rule: if your shrub blooms before June, prune it after flowering.

Early-Flowering Clematis

When you grow clematis, it can potentially be confusing, as different types require pruning at different times.

Group One clematis, which flowers early in spring, needs pruning after flowering, which can mean you prune this clematis in late spring or early summer. As they flower on old wood, it would be a clematis pruning mistake to trim in April, as you’d rob yourself of blooms.

The good news is that these Group One types don’t require lots of arduous pruning every year. Simply remove old flowers and thin older shoots to keep the climber healthy, compact, and packed with blooms.

Spring-Flowering Trees

As well as spring-flowering shrubs and climbers, gardeners should not prune trees that bloom in spring this April. That includes magnolia, cherries, lilac, serviceberry, and flowering dogwood trees.

When they require a trim, do so after the flowering show subsides. This avoids cutting off this year’s buds and gives the tree time to develop stems and next year’s buds for a strong display next spring.

Bleeder Trees

Some trees are known to bleed sap from pruning wounds, and are often referred to as ‘bleeder trees’. These include maple, birch, walnut, elm, and lime trees.

Losing sap can stress a tree, and pruning at certain times can minimize how much sap a tree loses. The sap of the trees highlighted above starts rising early in the spring, making them vulnerable to excessive bleeding if pruned in April.

Hydrangeas That Bloom on Old Wood

I mentioned earlier how new-wood hydrangeas are plants to prune in April, but not all hydrangeas are. If you have an old-wood hydrangea that blooms on stems formed the previous year, you would remove all this year’s flowers by trimming in early spring.

This is the case for old-wood bloomers like bigleaf (macrophylla) and oakleaf hydrangeas. These want pruning after flowering in summer, and not this month. It is crucially important to know the blooming habits of your shrub when pruning hydrangeas to avoid making cuts that remove this year’s buds.

Don’t Prune Anything in Extreme Weather

With more extreme weather predicted for April, you want to avoid doing anything that stresses plants or puts yourself at risk.

It is inadvisable to prune trees or shrubs heavily during periods of drought and extreme heat. Pruning, especially heavy pruning, can cause water loss, force the plant to use energy reserves to seal the cuts, and place huge stress on it. Unless it is vital for safety reasons, wait until the conditions improve.

Finally, it is very dangerous to prune trees during high winds. It is good to do proactive safety trimming ahead of a predicted storm, but never prune trees once the winds pick up.

April is traditionally a busy time for gardeners. If you wonder what to plant in April, look no further than these pieces on vegetables to plant in April, flowers to plant in April, and native perennials to plant in April. Our guides feature a wealth of plants to add to your backyard ideas for bursting flower beds or containers and fantastic harvests of homegrown crops.

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Flowering trees can undoubtedly put on dazzling summer performances, providing vivid color and attracting butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds into the garden. For an ultimate performance, gardeners need to prune at the right time. Here we reveal five flowering trees to prune in early spring, as you lose flowers if you do it any later.

Knowing when to prune trees means any in your yard remain healthy and put on the best show. That includes not trimming spring-flowering trees this month, but concentrating on summer-flowering ones that require trimming just as the buds break with clean, sharp pruning tools.

We reveal why you should add pruning crepe myrtle, chaste, desert willow, sourwood, and seven-son trees to your spring gardening checklist if you have them in your garden. There are also some trimming tips to help you prune confidently.

1. Crepe Myrtle

Crepe myrtle trees burst into bloom in early summer, with their bright clusters of flowers coming in shades of white, pink, red, and purple.

As these fast-growing flowering trees bloom in early summer, the window to prune crepe myrtle is closing. You can get away with trimming in early spring without ruining the summer show, but you want to do so before the end of March.

When growing crepe myrtle, pruning isn’t always necessary every year. However, when they do need trimming, it should be done during dormancy, before the buds break. As crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, the tree needs ample time to develop new stems to carry buds and blooms.

If you prune crepe myrtle too late, you’ll push back the flowering time and sacrifice the early blooms. When it comes to what to do with crepe myrtle in March, make sure to consider pruning.

You can get a Tuscarora Crape Myrtle Tree at Fast Growing Trees that stuns with bright coral-pink bloom in summer.

2. Chaste Tree

A chaste tree, also known as Vitex, is a shrub or small fragrant tree hardy in US hardiness zones 5-9. It produces 12-inch-long panicles of fragrant pink, lavender, or white flowers in summer, which attract butterflies.

Vitex flowers on new wood produced that season, and they want pruning in late winter or early spring. The ideal time to trim is just as the new growth starts to emerge for the season, and acting quickly ensures early flowering on the new stems produced. Delay and you miss out on beautiful, fragrant flowers.

Trimming a chaste tree can be as simple as removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches with sharp pruning tools and lightly shaping it as required.

It is worth noting that vitex is considered an invasive species in some parts of the southern and western US, as it self-seeds readily in warmer climates. Always check to see the status of the tree in your area before adding one to your yard.

If you have a chaste tree, cutting off spent flowers will prevent self-seeding.

3. Desert Willow

A desert willow, as the name suggests, is a drought-tolerant tree and one of the best trees for sandy soil or xeriscaping. It is a native plant to the southwestern US and Mexico that can be grown as a large shrub or small tree. However, despite the name, it is not a true willow but is in the same family as catalpa and campsis.

The small stature of a desert willow makes it an option as a flowering tree for smaller backyards, and the rewards it brings are spectacular: in the shape of orchid-like, trumpet-shaped flowers in bright shades of pink, purple, or white. These blooms often have patterned throats.

Prune a desert willow in late winter or early spring. They bloom on new wood, and trimming encourages stems that carry flowers that summer. It is not just you who will appreciate the dazzling blooms, as the flowers attract bees and butterflies. Prune too late, and you’ll sacrifice weeks' worth of potential flowers that you and the pollinators could enjoy.

A desert willow can self-seed, but you can get seedless varieties. One such example is the Sweet Bubba Seedless Desert Willow, which has bright magenta flowers and glossy leaves, plus it is seedless, so it won’t spread around the yard.

4. Sourwood Tree

A sourwood, often called a sorrel tree, is a small, low-maintenance tree with fragrant, white flowers in early summer.

These blooms are similar to lily-of-the-valley blooms, as they droop and seem to drip down the tree’s canopy to attract pollinators. Sourwood trees are beautiful year-round, with bright fall color and architectural appeal in winter.

One wonderful thing about a sourwood is its slow growth and ease of maintenance. They don’t need much pruning, and the window to trim runs through dormancy from late fall to early spring.

Don’t leave it too late, as you’ll not only miss out on flowers but also cause sap loss if you trim too far into spring. Excessive sap loss can leave the tree stressed and susceptible to pests and diseases.

5. Seven-Son Flower Tree

This small tree or large shrub quickly forms its flower buds once it starts growing in early spring, so you don’t want to be too slow to trim, as you’ll rob yourself of gorgeous blooms.

Even though the fragrant white flowers don’t show until late summer, the buds start forming early, so there is a real risk of cutting them off if pruned any time after very early in spring.

The good news is that you don’t need to do lots of pruning each year. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with weak, crossing, or inward-growing stems. This keeps the canopy healthy as air can circulate and light will penetrate.

Do this with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears. A pair of quality pruning shears can last you for many years; indeed, these Felco F2 pruners, available at Amazon, are professional tools and all parts are replaceable, so they can last decades.

You can get a Temple of Bloom Seven-Son at Plant Addicts that will dazzle with white flowers in summer. These flowers make way for red bracts at the end of the season, for another dazzling show.

For more trimming guidance in early spring, this guide to plants to prune in March reveals what you should and shouldn’t cut this month. It includes trees, shrubs, grasses, and perennial plants, to help you avoid doing anything that may harm your plants early in the season.

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March is a time with big temperature swings across the US, and any pruning plans need to reflect your location and the current weather. Here, we look at some plants to prune in March. We also reveal what to avoid trimming, and the conditions under which you should never take the pruning tools out this month.

Weather-wise, March is late winter for northern gardeners and early spring in the south. There are big temperature swings across the US, including severe weather conditions in the northeast and mid-Atlantic. Elsewhere, the weather remains more typical, with colder weather in northern areas and milder temperatures in southern regions.

Extreme winter temperatures are never a time to prune trees or shrubs, and even in northern and transitional zones, late frosts can still happen and affect new growth stimulated by pruning. However, gardeners in milder climates should be able to prune without such worries. Bearing all that in mind, let’s look at a selection of plants to prune in March as well as those to steer clear of.

Plants to Prune in March

1. Dormant Trees

March is an ideal time to prune trees before they break dormancy, which often happens this month in many zones. There is a wide range of deciduous ornamental and fruit trees to prune this month – our guide to trees to prune in March shows a good selection.

The key to pruning trees is primarily to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. And trimming out crossing branches and congested areas promotes air circulation through the canopy, which helps keep the tree healthy.

For whatever reason, when pruning tree branches, avoid making any tree pruning mistakes that cause harm. This includes using the wrong tools for the job, using blunt pruning tools, and trying to remove too large a branch in one go, which often tears or splits the bark.

To prune large branches, take a pruning saw and first make a small cut on the underside a few inches from the joint. Then cut the top a few inches further up the branch to remove the bulk, before tidying up with a last cut at the base.

A folding pruning saw like this one at Walmart is always my go-to tool for tree trimming.

2. Summer-Flowering Shrubs

March offers a window to prune shrubs, but not all (we’ll get to which not to prune later). It is the time to prune deciduous shrubs that bloom on new wood in the summer. These shrubs need pruning before they start growing in spring to develop lots of buds for this season’s blooms.

Summer-flowering deciduous shrubs to prune in March include panicle and smooth hydrangea varieties (but not all hydrangeas), cotoneaster, Russian sage, lavatera, hardy fuchsias, cotinus, and many shrub roses. Lots of these feature in a previous focused piece I wrote on plants to prune in March, with bespoke pruning advice for each.

Again, a primary focus is to remove any dead, diseased, and damaged branches, along with crossing, weak, or congested growth. When pruning shrubs or summer-flowering climbers this month, don’t get too carried away. Observe the one-third pruning rule and don’t remove any more, as it may affect this season’s display.

3. Any Remaining Perennials

Any remaining perennials in flower beds that have not been cut back yet need trimming this month.

The benefits of leaving herbaceous perennials in place over winter include feeding birds and providing shelter for insects in a wildlife garden. But they do need to be cut back before new growth comes through, and the old debris cleared away, as pests and diseases can overwinter on the material.

The likes of sedum, bee balm, hostas, asters, black-eyed Susan, coral bells, coneflower, and many more may need this attention in March. Check before trimming for signs of new growth, and if there are any, be very careful with the pruning shears to avoid new shoots or the plant's crown.

After cutting back, it is a good idea to mulch around plants to help promote strong growth for the season ahead. Use an organic type of mulch, such as compost, leaf mold, or bark chip, such as this bag of organic premium mulch at Amazon.

4. Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses are left standing over winter to provide food and shelter for wildlife, as well as provide seasonal interest. They do need to be cut back ahead of the new season, and March is a perfect time to do it if you still haven’t yet.

When it comes to cutting back ornamental grasses, the method differs depending on the type. But the good news is that both methods are super-simple.

Deciduous grasses, like Calamagrostis, miscanthus, and panicum, want bundling together and cutting 10-12 inches above the ground. This can be done with a pair of sharp pruning shears, and I have had a trusty pair of Felco F2 pruners (you can get Felco F2 pruners at Amazon) for many years for spring trimming.

Whereas, evergreen grasses, such as carex and festuca grass, just need dead foliage removed, and you can do this by combing through the blades wearing a good pair of gloves. A pair of thick leather gauntlet gloves like these at Walmart is perfect to keep you safe when handling grasses.

5. Hardy Evergreen Shrubs

Evergreen shrubs are great picks for year-round structure and screening if you are after shrubs for privacy. While evergreens are low-maintenance shrubs, they do need an annual trim to keep them looking in top shape year after year.

If you live in a milder climate, hardier evergreen shrubs can be trimmed this month before new growth starts. This includes the likes of laurel, euonymus, holly, viburnum, and mahonia.

Often, these shrubs need just a gentle trim to shape them, but you can prune heavily to rejuvenate older, neglected evergreens.

What Not to Prune This March

1. Anything in Freezing Conditions

To put it simply, you don’t want to prune trees, shrubs, grasses, or perennials when you are experiencing severe winter cold weather. Plummeting temperatures, snow, and icy winds all damage plants, as well as people and property.

There are many reasons it would be a pruning mistake to trim in extreme conditions. Not only is it a risk to your own health, but frozen branches are very brittle and will snap rather than cut cleanly.

Furthermore, plants cannot heal wounds at low temperatures, making them susceptible to pests and diseases, and frosts can get into pruning cuts and cause dieback. If you are experiencing freezing conditions, don’t think about pruning until warmer weather arrives.

Once winter storms have passed, you can assess any damage and prune as required. But trimming before the conditions improve can only make things worse for your plants.

2. Anything Ahead of Dropping Temperatures

Things can change quickly at the start of March, so pay close attention to forecasts and don’t prune if the temperatures are set to drop in the coming days.

Late frosts are common, and snowstorms can strike, so if it looks like freezing conditions are inbound, hold off any pruning until it passes and the days warm up.

3. Trees and Shrubs That Bloom on Old Wood

Don’t prune any spring-flowering shrubs that bloom on old wood, as all you’ll be doing is removing this season’s buds and robbing you of a display. This includes shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, rhododendron, flowering cherry, weigela, and oakleaf hydrangeas.

These bloom on old wood produced last season. They developed buds last summer and fall, and trimming now removes the blooms. All these plants want pruning after they have flowered.

This guide to what not to prune in spring contains a long list of plants you ought to keep the pruning shears away from in March.

4. Trees Vulnerable to Silver Leaf

There are troubling fungal diseases around at this time of year, such as silver leaf, which must influence what you prune. It should certainly be a reason not to prune certain fruit trees in March.

Silver leaf is a fungal disease that primarily targets plum, cherry, apricot, and almond trees. Once infected, leaves turn a silvery color, branches suffer dieback, and bracket-shaped fungi appear.

Silver leaf primarily gets into trees through pruning wounds. To keep trees safe, you shouldn’t prune stone fruit trees in winter when the spores are more prevalent in colder, damper weather.

Instead, prune them in summer, when the spores aren’t as common, and the tree is actively growing, so it can heal pruning wounds more quickly.

5. Borderline-Hardy or Tender Evergreen Shrubs

We discussed how you can prune hardy evergreen shrubs this month, but it is riskier to trim more tender evergreens, including those that are borderline-hardy.

Milder and colder regions can still receive frosts in March, and new growth will be damaged as a result. This can leave the shrubs more vulnerable to disease.

Both gardeners and the shrubs are at risk of a false spring, when temperatures rise in late winter, only to drop again. By rushing to trim, it stimulates new growth, which will die back if a late cold snap hits.

For gardeners in colder climates, the safest plan of action with the likes of Mexican orange blossom, camellia, abelia, and Italian cypress is to wait until the days warm up towards the end of the month or in early April.

March is a month when temperatures rise and the days get longer. It is a period when we can now spend more time in the garden, and start thinking about planting in earnest.

To give you some inspiration and tasks to add to your spring gardening checklist, our guide to what to plant in March includes flowers, fruits, and vegetables you can plant or sow this month, along with guidance on whether you should sow them indoors or outdoors.

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Overhanging branches can be more than a nuisance; they’re also a legal minefield. The basic rule? You’re usually allowed to trim branches that cross into your property, but only up to the property line. Go further, and you could be opening yourself up to legal trouble.

We spoke to attorneys and arborists to untangle the rules. While trimming overhanging branches is generally permitted, there are important caveats: how you cut, what you do with the debris, and your local laws can all make a difference.

In short, pruning your neighbor’s tree isn’t as simple as it seems. We reveal everything you need to know below.

What Attorneys Say About Pruning a Neighbor's Tree

Wherever you are in the country, the fundamental law is that you can trim overhanging branches up to the property line, but there's a lot to bear in mind as you prune.

Attorney Jeffrey Reisman explains the general principle most homeowners rely on.

'If the branches of a neighboring tree intrude into your yard, you would generally have the legal right to trim them up to the property line,' he says. 'This principle, often referred to as the self-help rule, grants property owners the right to trim encroaching branches without requiring their neighbor's permission.'

In other words, you can usually cut back anything that crosses into your airspace, but only up to the boundary line.

Attorney Jamie Wright agrees, though she cautions that the rules can vary depending on where you live.

'You can cut branches that grow into your property up to the property line, but you can’t trespass or harm the tree,' she says.

'States differ on this; for instance, some require that you notify your neighbor, while others do not. City ordinances may also determine who is responsible for tree care and maintenance.'

The golden rule? You cannot trespass to prune a neighbor’s tree.

That’s where things can become more complicated, according to arborist Kaustubh Deo.

'Laws vary by state or city, but in many cases, you can legally prune branches that are in your property airspace, such as those coming over a fence,' he says.

'However, to safely prune overhanging branches, arborists may need to access the tree itself to set up ropes or climbing equipment. In that case, they will need the neighbor's permission, since the tree is on their property.'

Why Local Ordinances Are Important

There are some exceptions that it is helpful to understand. Some trees cannot be pruned because of local laws or homeowners' association rules.

Attorney Jeffrey Reisman explains: 'You may be prohibited from trimming the tree without getting a permit if it is also protected by local laws such as heritage tree ordinances or conservation regulations.

'Certain cities and homeowners’ associations have strict ordinances regarding liveries for trees deemed significant for their species, size, or environmental importance.'

On top of that, you cannot prune a public tree that grows onto your property.

Jeffrey says: 'If the tree is located on public land but stretches over into your property, the matter may require consultation with the municipality or parks department.'

Give Fruit and Firewood Back

While you can usually cut back branches to the property line, ownership doesn’t transfer with the pruning. The wood, and anything growing on it, still belongs to your neighbor.

Attorney Jamie Wright explains: 'The tree owner has the right to the fruit, even if it grows on branches hanging over your fence.

'Picking it without the owner’s permission is considered theft in most states. However, if the fruit falls naturally into your yard, you are generally entitled to keep it.'

The same principle applies to the branches themselves. Even after trimming them back, you cannot automatically claim the wood for firewood or disposal.

Attorney Mark Hirsh says: 'Permission is always required. Unless a neighbor relinquishes or gives you fallen branches, they own them.'

Wright agrees, adding: 'Technically, those branches remain your neighbor’s property until they say otherwise. The safest approach is to ask. Most people won’t object to you keeping trimmed wood, but you shouldn’t assume.'

When the City May Step In

There are situations where pruning isn’t just a neighborly issue; it becomes a municipal one.

If a neighboring tree is dead, diseased, or structurally unsound and poses a risk to your property, it may fall under local safety regulations. In these cases, the issue is no longer just about overhanging branches, but about hazard control.

Attorney Jamie Wright explains: 'If a tree presents a risk of falling or causing damage, most jurisdictions allow you to demand that your neighbor address it.

'If they refuse and the risk is significant, you may be able to take further action, particularly if local regulations require property owners to control hazards. In the most serious cases, you can report the issue to the city.'

Involving the city can sometimes resolve the situation without you bearing the cost. Local authorities may require the tree owner to prune, maintain, or even remove a hazardous tree at their own expense.

However, before escalating matters, it’s wise to seek legal advice. Attorney Jeffrey Reisman says: 'You would need to obtain legal advice from a property or real estate lawyer specializing in your specific situation.

'Local government mediation offices, urban forest departments, or zoning offices may also provide invaluable assistance.'

He adds that trees may be officially deemed hazardous due to dead, diseased, or dangerously leaning branches, allowing you to file a formal complaint with your city or county regarding maintenance or removal at the owner’s expense.

What To Do if Your Neighbor Prunes Your Tree

There are a few things to consider if you find yourself on the other side of the issue. 'If a neighbor cuts your tree lawfully (only what stretches out to their lot), then you can do nothing,' says Jamie.

'However, if they over-trimmed or harmed the tree, they might be responsible for the damages. Some states, including California, allow you to seek damages from the offender, which can be up to three times the value of the tree.'

The best way to establish harm is to have an arborist look at the tree. Kaustubh Deo advises 'If a neighbor prunes your tree in an unwanted manner, the first step would be to call an ISA-Certified arborist to come examine the results.

'There's a meaningful difference between what looks good and what may actually be healthy for the tree. A trained professional can help you with that distinction, and then provide a course of next action.'

Trees aren't the only potential boundary issue with a neighbor. There are a lot of potential legal issues with building a pergola next to a neighbor's fence or establishing who is liable if a neighbor's tree falls in your yard.

Even establishing who owns a fence in the first place can be tricky, so it's no wonder that fences can cause so many legal headaches.

Meet the Experts

Leaving the remains of last season’s perennials in place over winter provides valuable food and shelter for a wide variety of wildlife, but the time does come to cut them back before the new growth starts. The clock may be ticking; the time may be nigh to cut down perennials in February.

There are two main reasons to cut down perennials in February. Firstly, it gives new stems the chance to emerge without being blocked or impeded by old growth. And secondly, pests and diseases can overwinter in dead stems and leaves, ready to infect the new growth as it appears in spring.

Where exactly cutting back perennials sits on your list of February gardening jobs will depend on your climate. In milder climates, you may start seeing the first new green shoots at some stage this month, in which case you need to act quickly. Gardeners in colder climates may still be in the grip of winter and not need to cut back until the end of February or the start of March.

1. Peonies

Ideally, gardeners should cut back peonies in late fall or early winter, but things don’t always go as planned. However, it is always important to cut them back and remove all old debris before new growth begins in spring.

This is vital when growing peonies, as bacteria and fungi can overwinter on old leaves and stems, and then reinfect new foliage when it appears.

Clearing any old, dead debris this month protects your peonies from peony wilt, a common fungal infection that causes shoots to wilt and blacken in spring and summer, as well as botrytis and powdery mildew.

To prune peonies this month, take clean cutting tools and cut the old foliage to two to three inches above the ground. If the old plant matter shows signs of disease, dispose of it rather than use the material to make compost.

To prevent spreading diseases around the garden, always clean and sterilize your tools when moving from plant to plant. You can use an all-purpose disinfectant product like this at Amazon to spray onto tools and then wipe them down.

2. Bee balm

Bee balm is a crucial plant for pollinators, as the name suggests, its flowers attract bees, but not just bees, as butterflies and hummingbirds will flock to its bright, nectar-rich blooms.

The perennial continues to offer multiple benefits in a wildlife garden throughout winter, which is why many gardeners will opt to cut back bee balm in late winter or early spring.

The seedheads provide food for birds during the lean winter months, and insects can shelter in the plant’s crown.

When you grow bee balm and opt to leave the plant standing over winter, you want to cut it down to ground level before the new growth emerges in early spring.

If your perennial has gotten large or congested and needs rejuvenating, late winter or early spring is also an ideal time to divide plants. This will revitalize clumps and give you new ones for free to add to your backyard ideas.

3. Daylilies

Some gardeners will diligently cut daylilies back in the fall after the leaves have died back. Others leave the old foliage in place, as it acts as a winter mulch and protects the crown and roots from winter cold.

If you fall into the latter category, or didn’t get around to cutting back in the fall, then now is the time to remove all the old debris. Clearing it all away prevents overwintering pests and diseases from targeting the new shoots when they appear.

The old foliage of daylilies can form a mat of brown leaves, so care needs to be taken not to damage any early new growth that may have started. Ideally, you should clear this away before new leafy growth emerges, but keep a close eye just in case anything is emerging.

Cut the old, brown foliage back to an inch or two above the soil, and carefully clear it away. A handheld garden rake, like this one at Amazon, makes an ideal tool for gently removing old leaves without damaging the daylily crown, or you can just use your fingers.

4. Black-Eyed Susans

Black-eyed Susans are long-flowering perennials that can brighten up your borders from the middle of summer right through to the first frosts. And they’ll attract pollinators into your garden throughout the season.

If you leave black-eyed Susan standing throughout winter, they’ll continue to benefit wildlife, as the dark central cones provide valuable food for birds, including finches.

You don’t need to wait until late winter or early spring to prune when growing black-eyed Susan, though, as they can be cut down in late fall after the first frosts. It all depends on what type of gardener you are, and whether you like neat flower beds over winter.

To cut back black-eyed Susans this month, use a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears and prune all the stems back to 3-6 inches above the ground.

Mulching plants after pruning with organic matter will retain moisture, smother weeds, and boost soil fertility. Use compost, leaf mold, or bags of mulch, like this organic, all-natural mulch at Walmart.

5. Coneflowers

When you grow coneflowers, they are another perennial where the gardener can choose to cut them down in fall or late winter. Those who prefer tidy borders or don’t want the flowers self-seeding around the yard can cut back as part of winterizing coneflowers in the fall.

However, as the dried seed heads provide valuable food for birds and the stems protect the crown from winter frosts in cold climates, there are tangible benefits to holding off until this time of year.

Also, if you are growing modern hybrid coneflower varieties, these do not self-seed, so that’s another tick in the box for cutting them back in late winter.

Cut back coneflowers before any new growth begins coming through, once temperatures start to warm towards the second half of February. Use sharp pruning tools and chop the stems down to a few inches above the ground.

You can get a handheld garden tool sharpener at Amazon that can quickly put a sharp edge on pruning shears, loppers, or hedge shears before doing any trimming.

6. Shasta Daisies

The shasta daisy has masses of daisy-like flowers, usually white with a yellow center, throughout summer and into early fall. These low-maintenance perennials require minimal attention but must be cut back either in the fall or late winter.

If you didn’t cut back your shasta daisies in the fall, either to leave the seed heads as a food source or simply because you didn’t get around to it, it is a quick and simple job to cut them down to a couple of inches above the ground this month.

To guarantee a bumper display of blooms come summer, you can fertilize shasta daisies in spring with a slow-release fertilizer. One feed in spring with a product like this all-purpose plant food at Walmart can be all you need to give your plants each season.

7. Catmint

When you grow catmint, it is beneficial to leave stems over winter. They provide food and shelter for wildlife. In particular, the old leaves and stems provide a favorable place for ladybugs to hibernate over winter.

The truth is that old catmint stems aren’t the most attractive, and they can flop over paths or lawns. There is no harm in gently pruning catmint in the fall to remove the messy top growth, but still keeping most of the plant intact for wildlife.

Before any new green shoots start to emerge, this is the time to hard prune and cut the dead stems to 1-2 inches above the ground. This will encourage new stems to come through, and they can develop unimpeded by any older growth.

You may need to cut down perennials in February, but there are also many other pruning tasks to do around the garden this month.

To help you plan for the month ahead, these guides to plants to prune in February and trees to prune in February give you a long list of plants that may need some attention over the coming weeks.

Tools for Cutting Back Perennials in February

Please plan carefully before heading out to prune this month. True, February is a great time to prune many deciduous trees and shrubs, but it is also a bad time to trim spring-flowering trees and shrubs, plus others. To avoid making a mistake you’ll regret, here are seven plants to never prune in February.

It may be tempting to head out on a dry, fine February day to tidy up as many plants as possible in your garden ahead of the new season. But trimming randomly only causes unnecessary issues. You may be robbing yourself of early spring flowers that can lift spirits after a long winter, but you can also place trees and shrubs at risk of harm.

Pruning does need to be on a list of February gardening jobs, as there is a great range of plants to prune in February that will be thankful for some attention. But not all will, so think before you trim. We reveal seven plants to never prune in February, along with when is the best time to show them some TLC.

Forsythia

Forsythia is one of the earliest spring-flowering shrubs, bursting into life with vivid yellow flowers on bare stems from mid-February onwards.

If you grow forsythia, you do need to prune it to keep it productive and prevent a congested shrub with a bare base and flowers only high up at the top. But to achieve that, and get a display of bright blooms to enjoy each spring, you must prune at the right time.

February is not the time to prune forsythia. You want to do it after flowering, as forsythia blooms on last year’s growth.

Once the flowers start to fade, it is time to head out and trim. Doing it in late winter only removes the wood carrying this year’s buds.

Lilac

The sweet scent of lilac flowers is a joy in spring. Understanding when to prune lilacs means yours remains in top shape, and you get a glorious display of those fragrant flowers to enjoy.

Lilacs bloom on old wood; take pruning shears to the plant now, and you’ll remove all the flower buds that are waiting to burst into life when the temperatures rise. Instead, hold fire and prune lilacs within a month of the blooming ending in late spring or early summer.

As for how to prune lilacs, deadhead old flowers, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged stems, and trim lightly to achieve the height and shape that works for your space. If you want to renovate older lilacs, remove a third of the oldest stems each year.

Flowering Quince

A flowering quince (Chaenomeles sp.) blooms in early spring with delicate, cup-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, and white. The shrub offers an apple blossom-like display that stands out gloriously against glossy green foliage.

The best-looking flowering quinces are kept compact and well-shaped through annual pruning done after the year’s blooms fade. It keeps the shrub neat and attractive, and gives it lots of time to develop new growth over the season to carry next year’s flower buds.

You can heavy prune a flowering quince in winter to rejuvenate an older, out-of-control shrub. However, doing so in one go robs you of any flowers to enjoy in spring.

A better alternative is to remove a few of the oldest branches each year. This encourages new wood and still allows you a display of flowers.

Redbud

Redbud trees (Cercis) are a unique sight in spring as their stems, branches, and trunks are covered in pink or white flowers.

It makes a real statement tree as they are among the first to bloom each year. And the spring blooms make it a great tree for wildlife, as pollinators and hummingbirds are attracted to it for pollen early in the season.

Redbuds are low-maintenance and don’t need lots of pruning each year, except for removing dead, damaged, or diseased branches and some light shaping. The best time to prune a redbud tree is after the dramatic flowering display is done for the year.

Prune too early in late winter, or too late into late spring or early summer, and you will remove wood and developing buds that ought to carry next spring’s dramatic display. It is advisable to trim lightly with redbuds, and never prune more than a third of the branches in one season.

Flowering Cherry

An ornamental cherry is certainly one of the best trees for spring blossom. It puts on a spectacular show when their branches are laden in pink or white flowers. While famed for their spring display, flowering cherries also have fiery fall color and some have unusual bark too.

The stunning performance occurs in early to mid-spring, but it is often fleeting, lasting for no longer than two or three weeks. If you were to head out and prune a cherry tree in February, this display would be greatly reduced. Therefore, any pruning should be done after the flowering has finished, in early or midsummer.

It is also not advisable to do any pruning of cherry trees during winter due to the risk of silver leaf. This fungal disease is a problem for cherries and it gets into the trees through pruning cuts. Pruning cherries on a dry summer’s day reduces the chance of infection.

Old Wood Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are not all pruned the same way, and knowing when to prune hydrangeas means understanding if your shrub blooms on old or new wood. Before you do anything with hydrangeas in February, make sure you know which category any in your yard fall into.

To put it simply, you can prune hydrangeas that flower on new wood in February, such as panicle or smooth hydrangea varieties, but any that bloom on old wood are plants to never prune in February and should ideally be left untouched this month. That includes bigleaf (both mophead and lacecap types), mountain, and oakleaf hydrangeas.

Pruning old wood bloomers risks removing all this year’s flower buds, which were formed in summer and early fall and waited all winter to burst forth. Even deadheading old blooms in February leaves these buds at the mercy of late winter frosts.

You can deadhead hydrangeas in warmer climates, where the risk of frost has passed, but elsewhere, leave it until next month, as those old flower heads, while they may not look much, are protecting the delicate buds from winter harm.

Evergreens in Cold Regions

Evergreens are plants to never prune in February if you garden in colder climates, when the task is best left until after the last frost for your region.

This is especially important if you are doing any heavy pruning of evergreen shrubs, including yew, boxwood, holly, and arborvitae.

Winter pruning is always risky with evergreens, as they don’t necessarily have the food supplies required to regrow their foliage quickly. Where they do produce new growth, that is at risk of being damaged by frosts and icy winter winds, which leaves the shrub susceptible to pests and diseases.

It is best to prune evergreen shrubs in mid-spring, once they have started growing again for the new season. As they are actively growing, it means they can heal pruning wounds quickly, and the scars are covered by the new stems and foliage.

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February is a good month to prune deciduous trees in many climates. As they are dormant, they suffer less stress from pruning, and there are fewer pests and diseases around at this time of year. Bearing that in mind, we look at some of the best trees to prune in February.

One word of warning is that pruning trees might not be suitable for everyone this month – you need to be cautious about when to prune trees to keep them safe. If you live in warm or milder climates, the weather is probably fitting. However, even in these areas, avoid trimming during freezing temperatures. Gardeners in colder regions may need to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed before heading out to prune.

As a gardener, I have spent many late winter days pruning trees in gardens. These included trained fruit trees that adorned arches and walls in one particular walled garden, a historic garden with a large orchard, and a wide variety of ornamental trees across different gardens. Here, I look at some of the best edible and ornamental trees to prune in February, and give some pruning tips to get you started.

Even More Trees to Prune in February

This time last year, I looked at seven trees to prune in February. But there are certainly more candidates to consider, so a follow-up was necessary.

See my first recommendations on trees to prune in February, and add those seven to your late winter gardening checklist, along with the following selections:

1. Pear

I mentioned above that I had done a lot of fruit tree pruning in winter, which included pear trees, both freestanding and trained. I have pruned many apple and pear trees at this time of year, as late winter is the best time to prune pear trees to keep them healthy and productive, especially those growing as standalone trees in gardens or orchards.

In terms of how to prune pear trees, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with crossing branches and any growing inwards. Cutting back branch leaders by up to a third will promote the growth of fruiting spurs.

For trained pear trees, most pruning takes place in summer, but you can also thin stems in winter or do major cutting to rejuvenate the shape.

You must always have clean, sharp pruning tools; it is a mistake to prune trees with blunt or dirty tools. The quickest way to sharpen many tools is with a pocket-sized tool sharpener, like this one at Amazon.

2. Oak

These majestic and widespread trees are highly prized, but to keep them safe, you must understand when to prune oak trees if you have one on your property.

The reason timing is crucial is to avoid oak wilt, a devastating fungal disease that is prominent in eastern and midwestern US states and capable of quickly killing most types of oaks.

The disease is spread by sap-feeding beetles in spring and early summer, so any oak pruning must be done during dormancy, usually between November and March.

That time urgency is why you should have it on your hit-list of trees to prune in February if you have an oak in your yard. Thankfully, the actual pruning should be simple.

Oaks don’t need regular pruning; they are low-maintenance trees that just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed and the canopy thinned if it gets too congested.

A pruning saw may be required to remove larger branches on established oak trees. I recommend this Felco folding saw at Garden Goods Direct. I used one for many years and found it efficient to cut through large tree branches.

3. Ash

Ash has been a popular urban tree in cities for decades, but it is under threat from the emerald ash borer (EAB).

The EAB has been detected in 37 states and is believed to be responsible for the death of millions of ash trees across North America. One way to keep an ash tree on your property safe is through pruning at the right time.

It is advisable to only prune ash trees when they are dormant, and late winter is the ideal time. Pruning at this time reduces the risk of fresh sap flow, which stresses the tree and attracts pests such as the EAB.

Another major pruning mistake to avoid is being too overzealous, as taking out too much wood stresses the tree and makes it more vulnerable to pests. Take heed of the one-third pruning rule and don’t remove more than this in any one year.

Concentrate on removing dead, damaged, and diseased branches and lightly thinning the canopy to open it up and improve light penetration and air circulation.

When you do prune or examine an ash tree, if you notice an S-shaped pattern on the bark or dead branches at the top of the tree, this may indicate the presence of the EAB. Any infested wood should be burned and not moved off-site.

4. Beech

Beech trees have long been popular additions to any landscape, thanks to their shape and fall color. The American beech tree, for example, is adored for its smooth, grey, unusual bark and for being a prized tree for shade.

Beech trees can reach up to a hundred feet if left unpruned, and regular trimming is often required to keep them to a manageable size for a property. This pruning needs to be done during dormancy, as beech trees bleed sap when actively growing, which leaves them vulnerable to pests and diseases.

As beech trees are currently at risk of beech leaf disease, pruning during dormancy helps keep them healthy and reduces unnecessary stress or risk.

Start by removing dead, damaged, diseased, and crossing branches first, as the latter can rub and create entry points for disease. If you are looking to reduce the height, make selective thinning cuts over a few years to remove branches rather than hard-pruning the tree.

Always sanitize your pruning tools when moving between trees. This can be done as simply as spraying tools with a commercial disinfectant spray and wiping them down. You can get an all-purpose disinfectant cleaner at Walmart.

5. Ginkgo

Ginkgo trees are one of the oldest in existence and have been around for over 200 million years. They remain popular today thanks to their unique fan-shaped leaves, their golden fall color, and their low-maintenance.

They don’t require lots of pruning, but when the need arises, it should be done during dormancy in late winter or early spring.

Most pruning is done while a ginkgo tree is young, to form its shape. Often, this involves developing a strong framework and a single leader, with competing branches, long-hanging stems, and suckers removed.

Once established, they only require dead, damaged, and diseased branches removing, and a light shaping. As ginkgo trees only grow 1-2 feet per year, this TLC often doesn’t need to be a regular annual task. But do remove suckers whenever you see them.

6. Sweetgum

Sweetgum, also known as liquidambar, provides spectacular fall color in fiery shades of red, yellow, orange, and more. They don’t need regular pruning, but they may need some attention for both aesthetics and safety.

You should prune sweetgum trees during dormancy, ideally in late winter. This helps keep it healthy as there are fewer insects and diseases around to trouble pruning wounds. A benefit to pruning during dormancy is that you can see the structure and spot any damaged branches.

Pruning typically involves removing broken, diseased, or dead branches. It is also advisable to remove any crossing branches, crowded stems, upright shoots, and suckers at the base of the tree. But prune lightly, and don’t remove more than 25% of live wood.

An established sweetgum can get very large, potentially up to 100 feet tall, meaning a certified arborist may be required for large trees.

7. Fig

When you grow a fig tree, pruning is one of the important tasks to get right. They do need annual pruning, which keeps them healthy and ensures you have a great harvest, but there is a right and a wrong time to prune fig trees.

The right time is when they are dormant in late winter, with February an ideal time to get out and trim. It would be a mistake with a fig tree to wait until it is actively growing, as figs bleed sap heavily if pruned during spring or summer. You should always wear gloves when pruning figs to protect your skin, as the sap can irritate.

Pruning outside the ideal window also impacts the harvest, as the tree has to concentrate precious energy on healing wounds, at a time it will be stressed from sap loss, rather than producing fruit.

Annual fig tree pruning requires removing dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches and congested areas to open up the tree’s framework and allow for lots of air and light penetration. Wall-trained figs need any shoots growing inwards or outwards removed, and new shoots cut back by around a third.

Older fig trees often benefit from one or two of the largest branches removed annually to encourage new, more productive growth.

It is important to make sensible pruning decisions, as not all trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring. In particular, you want to avoid pruning spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as dogwood, magnolia, and lilacs, as you would be trimming off all the buds that will carry that year’s blooms. This guide to what not to prune in spring reveals 10 of those trees and shrubs that you should keep the pruning tools away from.

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Fan-trained fruit trees have branches arranged in a (yes, you guessed it) fan shape. They are tied to a wall or fence and benefit from regular light pruning to keep them shapely, healthy, and productive. Here we look at when and how to prune fan-trained fruit trees so yours remain at their absolute best.

The fan shape is popular for many different fruits. It is predominantly for stone fruits or figs, but classics like apples and pears are also suitable. Both the timing and the techniques to prune fan-trained fruit trees depend on the type. Some require winter and summer pruning, while others are only trimmed in summer.

It is important to understand how to prune fruit trees to get the best from these trained types. Knowing the key techniques means you can keep the tree open and healthy, and get lots of fruiting wood for bumper harvests. I have pruned lots of fruit in public and private gardens over the years, and here are my tips for how to prune fan-trained fruit trees.

When to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees

The right time to prune fan-trained fruit trees depends on the type of fruit you are growing. And it either takes place in late winter or early spring, or in summer.

Understanding when to prune fruit trees is vitally important to their long-term health; it is a fruit tree pruning mistake to treat them all the same.

Late winter or early spring is the ideal time to prune apples, pears, and figs. During dormancy is good for structural work and major pruning, while a second summer trim is for fine-tuning and developing fruiting spurs.

However, summer is best for pruning stone fruits, such as peaches, cherries, and apricots. You prune stone fruits later in the year to reduce the risk of silver leaf, a fungal disease prevalent in winter that targets stone fruits.

A summer pruning of stone fruit also encourages the growth of fruiting spurs to carry lots of fruit.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees

You often need to prune fan-trained fruit trees from the moment of planting to encourage the best growth and create the classic angled fan shape.

As well as pruning, you need a trellis or bamboo framework on a wall or fence to train the fruit tree to. You can get a pack of bamboo stakes at Amazon to use for the framework.

If you buy a pre-trained tree, the work is done for you, but otherwise, you need to cut straight after planting the fruit tree. Please be prepared to get into action with sharp pruning tools as soon as possible.

Having a pocket-sized garden tool sharpener like this one from Amazon can be a quick way to get your pruning shears sharp while out in the garden.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees to Establish the Shape

Do the first pruning 18 inches up the trunk above three healthy buds to encourage side shoots. Pick two angled branches to train next summer, and the following spring, cut them back by two-thirds to an upwards-facing bud.

In summer, pick around four shoots from each of these main arms. The next spring, remove any stems that are growing inwards towards the wall, and cut back the four stems you chose to keep by one-third to an upward-facing bud.

How to Prune Fan-Trained Fruit Trees in the Years to Come

Once trees have their shape established, they require only light pruning each year to stay attractive and productive.

The priority goes to removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with undesirable growth. That includes branches growing straight out from the wall, inwards, and any crossing, as they can rub and create wounds that become entry points for pests and diseases.

After dealing with that hit list of unwanted branches, the pruning of lateral stems varies slightly, depending on the fruit. Let’s look at a few of the differences:

• For stone fruits: peaches, nectarines, plums, and cherries: In summer, any new shoots are cut back to around six or seven leaves. After harvesting, between August and September, these same shoots are pruned further back to three leaves. This encourages the growth of spurs to bear fruit the following year.
• For pome fruits: apples and pears: In summer, new shoots longer than 6-8 inches are pruned back to 2-3 leaves, and shorter ones are left untouched. This trimming will create spurs to carry future fruit. In winter, shape the tree and thin any congested areas of growth to ensure good air circulation and light penetration, which keeps the tree healthy.

The fan-trained trees will benefit from small-scale pruning to maintain the shape and keep the center open. It is better to prune lightly and not remove more than a third of the tree’s growth – remember the one-third pruning rule, and you’ll avoid stressing the tree.

The main structural arms shouldn’t need replacing as they have a long lifespan. If the time comes to replace an established arm, train a strong, younger lateral over two seasons, and phase out the older limb. This is the best way to refresh the framework and maintain fruit over the years.

While most focus is on pruning, don’t ignore tying in shoots. This is an equally important task, so spend time tying shoots into the framework during the winter and summer trimming sessions.

Fruit trees can also be grown as espaliers, and apples and pears are popular fruits to grow in this way. These trained trees also need regular trimming, and, just like with fans, you prune espalier apple trees in winter and summer.

Winter is the time for renovation and dealing with congestion, while summer restricts growth and lets more light and air in to help ripen fruits.

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February can be a prime time for pruning in many climates. As the worst of the winter weather releases, it is a perfect window to prune before plants commence with spring growth. With that in mind, we look at some plants to prune in February and give trimming tips so you get spectacular displays this season.

Over my years as a horticulturist, I have spent many late winter days out in the garden with pruning tools in hand. It is a great time to trim, tidy, and train. Pruning needs to feature prominently on your list of February gardening jobs, as trees, shrubs, climbers, and perennials want trimming.

But it is important to know what and what not to prune this month, as cutting anything that blooms on old wood simply removes the flowers. Consider the weather, too, as the ideal timing will depend on your US hardiness zone. Those in warmer and milder climates are good to go in February, but delay if the days are frosty, and those in colder areas are best to wait until at least late February to prune.

1. Hydrangeas (Some)

Knowing when to prune hydrangeas can be confusing for many gardeners. It all comes down to the type of wood that they bloom on, so you must know if your hydrangea variety flowers on old wood or new wood.

Those that flower on new wood can be pruned this month, whereas a hydrangea that flowers on old wood should be left alone, as trimming now removes this year’s flowers.

Late winter is the time to prune panicle hydrangeas, such as ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas and ‘Bobo’ hydrangeas, and smooth hydrangeas, including the ever-popular ‘Annabelle’ hydrangea.

Only ever prune hydrangeas with clean and sharp pruning tools, including pruning shears, loppers, and a pruning saw (such as this Felco folding saw at Garden Goods Direct). This ensures clean cuts, which reduces the risk of pests and diseases, and prevents the spread of diseases around the garden.

2. Rose of Sharon

You don’t need to prune a Rose of Sharon yearly, but as this hibiscus variety is a fast-growing shrub, regular trimming, at least every two or three years, keeps it controlled and healthy. If you plant a Rose of Sharon and don’t prune, you’ll risk a spreading shrub that flops under the weight of its own flowers – not the most attractive look.

Prune a Rose of Sharon during dormancy, just before new growth starts. As the shrub flowers on new wood, pruning directs energy into creating new shoots to carry flowers. It is better to trim earlier than later, as leaving it too late is a pruning mistake that risks cutting off developing buds.

Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, and weak, crossing, or undesirable stems. You can then shape the shrub and trim the tips of some branches to encourage bushy growth.

A word of warning, Rose of Sharon is classed as an invasive plant in some US states. As it is notorious for self-seeding, regular deadheading throughout the blooming season will prevent the shrub from spreading.

3. Crepe Myrtle

Crepe myrtle is a flowering shrub that needs pruning each year if you want a great display of blooms every season. If you grow a crepe myrtle and don’t prune, the risk is of a dense, overgrown shrub. So plan to prune a crepe myrtle every late winter, with the window opening in February in most climates.

It is another shrub that flowers on new wood, so it needs pruning before it starts growing. If you have wondered why your crepe myrtle isn’t blooming, it can commonly be due to gardeners pruning too late and removing the developing buds.

As for how to prune crepe myrtle, start by removing dead, damaged, and diseased stems. It is also advisable to cut out any weak stems thinner than a pencil and any branches growing inward. You can selectively remove a few larger branches to thin the crown and lower the canopy, which is better than topping the shrub to one height.

4. Trumpet Vine

Trumpet vines (also called Campsis) are among the fastest-growing climbing plants, making them a necessary choice for pruning in February if you have one.

Regular pruning is essential to keep these vines in check, as they can cause damage to structures if allowed to grow uncontrolled. There is no need to panic, though. Pruning a trumpet vine keeps it in check and rewards you with lots of its warm, long-lasting flowers.

Prune in late winter to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, and cut back lateral shoots off the main stems to 2-3 buds. However, when required, you can be more aggressive with trumpet vine pruning. This can even involve cutting all the growth back to 12 inches to rejuvenate the climber.

When working with trumpet vines, it is advisable to wear gardening gloves and long sleeves (you can get gardening sleeves at Amazon for protection) as the stems can bleed sap, which can cause skin irritation to some gardeners.

5. Wisteria

Wisteria is another vigorous flowering climber that demands attention. Indeed, when you grow wisteria, it needs pruning twice a year, once in winter and once in summer. This double-pronged approach keeps it looking fabulous and under control.

The good news is that pruning wisteria in winter is surprisingly simple. It is a good time to thin the plant, shape the climber (which is easier to do when the leaves have dropped), and train and tie in wisteria shoots for the growing season ahead.

Cut out any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, weak growth, and crossing branches. Then, simply cut back last summer’s growth, which should be long and whippy, to two or three buds from the main framework of branches. Cut back to a healthy bud to encourage a great display of spring flowers.

6. Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susans bring glorious warm shades to flower beds in the summer and fall, with the backswept petals standing out against the dark center, which gives them their moniker.

While black-eyed Susans have a long blooming season, lasting up until the first frosts, you don’t want to rush out too quickly to chop them down. They rank alongside coneflowers and globe thistle as perennials not to cut back in fall, as they provide valuable food for birds in winter and shelter in a beneficial wildlife garden.

It is better to cut back black-eyed Susans in late winter. This timing is also relevant for cutting back coneflowers, too, along with any other perennials and native plants that can feed birds in winter. Foodscaping for winter wildlife is vital for supporting birds, insects, and small mammals, and leaving seedheads is a simple way to do this.

To cut back black-eyed Susans in February, simply head out with a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or hedge shears and cut the stems back to 4-6 inches above the ground.

7. Russian Sage

Russian sage is another of those great plants for pollinators that you don’t want to be too quick to cut back once they finish flowering. While it can be done in the fall, it is preferable to leave the seed heads in place for local wildlife to enjoy. A bonus is that the untrimmed stems will provide structure in flower beds, and they look beautiful when tinged with a winter frost.

It is, however, important to cut back Russian sage each late winter. A trimmed plant will have strong, upright stems covered in lovely blue-purple flowers in summer, whereas one left to its own devices can flop over, which can be an eyesore in the garden. A well-maintained Russian sage is bushy, open, and has lots of new growth, rather than being congested and full of woody stems. Good air circulation and light penetration help keep the plant healthy.

To prune Russian sage, cut the stems back to the lowest set of leaves or around 12-14 inches from the ground. Always cut to a healthy bud to promote the growth of lots of flowers to enjoy.

If you grow ornamental grasses in your garden, these are also ideal plants to prune in February. Late winter is the perfect time to cut back ornamental grasses, and it is simple to do.

The only thing to remember is that deciduous and evergreen grasses require different techniques. To help you prune correctly, this guide to ornamental grasses to cut back in February contains both types, along with tips for how to prune them properly.

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Pruning almond trees is a key part of maintenance that encourages a strong structure, keeps trees healthy, and helps them produce fruits, those which contain the tasty nuts. It does, however, have a reputation for being tricky. But it doesn’t need to strike fear, so we look at how to prune almond trees to show how simple it can be.

It is vital to know when and how to prune almond trees to prevent doing anything that risks their long-term health. The key takeaways are to trim in late winter or early spring, and to prune throughout the tree’s life, starting right after planting.

Here we look at how to prune almond trees of all ages, whether you have recently planted one or have well-established almond trees growing on your property. It includes easy trimming tips from experienced gardeners so you can confidently know which branches to prune and how.

How and When to Prune Almond Trees

Before doing any almond pruning, you must clean and sharpen any pruning tools.

This ensures you make clean pruning cuts and prevents the transmission of any diseases or bacteria around the garden.

You can sharpen many tools with a simple pocket-sized sharpener, like this garden tool sharpener available from Amazon, which you can keep in the shed or take out with you when doing any pruning. And gardening tools can be kept clean by using rubbing alcohol or diluted bleach.

When to Prune Almond Trees

Pruning trees at the right time is pivotal to their remaining healthy for many years to come, so avoid making any tree pruning mistakes and only head out with the tools at the appropriate time for any tree.

It is especially important with somewhat sensitive trees, such as almonds.

When it comes to almond pruning, they should be pruned in very late winter or early spring, during the tree’s dormancy. Pruning during dormancy encourages vigorous growth in the spring, once the new season begins.

As almond trees are susceptible to silver leaf, a fungus that infects wood and primarily gets in via pruning wounds, early spring pruning reduces the risk of infection, as silver leaf spores are most active in fall and winter.

That covers the right time, but when should you avoid pruning trees? Firstly, almond trees bleed sap when actively growing, so pruning too late in the spring causes bleeding that leaves them susceptible to pests and diseases.

And you shouldn’t prune almond trees in the fall. As this would encourage the tree to produce fresh growth that will not have time to harden off, and will be damaged by winter frosts.

How to Prune Almond Trees

To ensure a healthy, strong tree, a beautiful display, and a good yield, almond trees require pruning from a young age to establish a strong structural shape.

The trees don’t always need major pruning, but you do need to establish a framework early on, and giving trees some ongoing trimming helps stimulate new growth and maintain the form.

Not trimming at all would be a pruning mistake and leave you with an unhealthy, unproductive almond tree at an increased risk of splitting.

Pruning Young Almond Trees

Almond trees are usually grown in an open vase shape. This is because it is a perfect shape for strong limbs. It also allows light and air into the center of the tree, which is vital for preventing disease and producing nuts.

Lotte Berendsen, a plant expert at PlantIn, the leading plant care and identification app in the US, suggests the best course of action is to ‘start pruning right after planting’ an almond tree in your yard.

‘The goal is to encourage the growth of 3-5 main branches, so the tree can put all of its energy into creating a strong base,’ says the experienced horticulturist.

‘Simply choose 3-5 branches as your tree’s main structure. Remove any smaller and weaker branches that grow around these main branches as they appear. Continue to do this for the first 2-5 years of your tree’s life.’

The main 3-5 scaffold branches you select must be healthy, evenly spaced around the trunk, and angle away from the trunk at between 45 and 60 degrees. These will remain untouched over the early years and form the strong framework of the almond tree.

Remove all other branches with a pair of pruning shears or loppers, depending on the size. Larger branches, up to 1.5 inches in diameter, will require using bypass loppers, like these at Garden Goods Direct.

In the second year, some new growth from these primary arms can be left to form more of the tree’s secondary structure, but these also need to be healthy and well-spaced. As Lotte recommended, smaller and weaker branches from these arms are best removed.

Over these early years, vigorous or congested shoots in the center of the tree, such as those that grow upwards, also need to be removed to keep the tree open. Too many shoots will prevent air and light from penetrating the canopy.

It is also important to remove any damaged, diseased, or dead branches, and to keep the trunk clear of stems below the lowest of the initial scaffold branches.

Pruning Mature Almond Trees

Once the tree is mature and the structure is well-established, the focus of almond pruning is to keep the tree healthy and productive, guaranteeing you a good harvest of almonds.

It starts, as with doing any tree or shrub pruning, with removing the three D’s: dead, damaged, and diseased branches. These can be trimmed with sharp pruning shears, loppers, or a pruning saw (like this folding pruning saw at Amazon) if they are larger than two inches in diameter.

Lotte Berendsen also claims you should add poor-growing branches to that hit-list, as she says: ‘This helps to prevent the spread of diseases and prevent the decaying branches from using resources, so your tree can put all of its energy into new growth instead.’

I also recommend looking out for crossing branches and any growing in the wrong direction. Branches that cross can rub and create entry points for disease, while branches growing towards the trunk block air and light from penetrating the canopy, and both are best removed.

‘For older trees that have lived more than ten years, heading cuts can be used to encourage new buds to form,’ adds Lotte. Heading cuts are those that remove parts of an existing branch. They are different from thinning cuts, where the branch is cut all the way back to where it meets another limb or the trunk.

To do these heading cuts, Lotte recommends: ‘Cut the main branches back about a third of their total size to encourage new shoots and rejuvenate the tree canopy.’

This trimming encourages the growth of new wood that will carry buds for blooms and fruits. For a productive tree, the key is balancing older wood and newer shoots in this way. These types of trimming cuts can rejuvenate unproductive branches by encouraging new growth.

However, don’t get too carried away each year, as almond trees don’t respond well to heavy pruning. You often hear about the one-third pruning rule of trees and shrubs as a maximum to remove, but almond trees need a lighter touch than this. Aim to remove 10-20% of the canopy in a year, and no more.

Finally, remember to remove any water sprouts that appear, which are vigorous, upright shoots that develop on older branches and rob essential plant nutrients from other branches.

Almonds also produce suckers at the base, which also need removing to stop them from stealing energy from the rest of the tree. A sharp pair of pruning shears, like these professional Felco F2 pruners at Amazon, is perfect for removing smaller stems from the trees.

Almond trees can grow up to 20 feet tall, depending on the variety, but can be kept more compact by growing them in containers. This allows gardeners with smaller spaces, like a small yard, courtyard garden, or deck, to enjoy the fragrant flowers and edible nuts.

If you do want to grow almond trees in pots, pick a smaller type, such as the ‘All-In-One’ variety. You can get a live ‘All-In-One’ almond tree at Amazon.

Plant your almond into a large container, at least 20 inches in diameter, and place it in a sunny spot in your yard. Use a good potting soil and ensure to water the tree regularly to keep the soil moist, as well as fertilize the tree each spring.

Cotoneaster is a wide-ranging genus of both deciduous and evergreen shrubs and small trees. They are versatile plants, suitable as great specimen shrubs, ground cover plants, or hedges. Unsurprisingly, how you prune cotoneaster varies depending on the type and how they feature in your garden.

Many homeowners grow cotoneaster for the shrub’s year-round interest, with spring flowers, bright fall color (for deciduous varieties), and the dazzling berries come fall. To appreciate all the beauty of a cotoneaster, proper pruning is vital. Pruning at the wrong time, or being too heavy-handed, will affect the display of blooms and berries.

We want to ensure that you prune shrubs properly and feel confident doing it. This guide looks at the best time to prune cotoneaster and the steps you should follow. It includes some expert tips for cotoneaster pruning, including how much to trim and the varying methods for different types of cotoneaster.

Cotoneaster Pruning – Why, Where, and How

One of the main attractions of cotoneaster is that it is one of the best shrubs for fall berries, and pruning helps guarantee this spectacular seasonal show.

Regular trimming also maintains the form and prevents a cotoneaster, which can reach 15 feet depending on the variety, from dominating a space.

The exact level of trimming will depend on the type, but even low-maintenance shrubs or small trees can remain healthy by removing deadwood and increasing air circulation. A sharp pair of pruning shears, such as these professional Felco F2 pruners at Amazon, makes a perfect tool for the job.

If you are after a cotoneaster to dazzle in fall, you can’t go wrong with an Autumn Inferno Cotoneaster, available from Nature Hills. With orange-red fall foliage and bright red fruit, it can make a real statement as a standalone shrub or an attractive hedging plant.

The Best Time to Prune Cotoneaster

There are deciduous and evergreen types, but for both, early spring is the ideal window to prune cotoneaster. This is especially true if you aim to reshape or rejuvenate older, or larger, shrubs, but heavy pruning in spring will affect that year’s display.

‘For optimal health of cotoneaster, the best time to prune is before bud swell, or before active growth,’ claims James Barden, an experienced landscaper and founder of Green Leaf Landscaping in Central New York.

‘It can also be done after flowering, but this will reduce the number of berries that season,’ he adds, though trimming at this time is only suitable for lightly shaping the shrub, rather than any major pruning.

Getting the timing right is pivotal. Trimming cotoneaster at the wrong time is a shrub pruning mistake that can affect the number of flowers or fruit you’ll get each year.

Cotoneasters bloom profusely in late spring or early summer, and the flowers attract bees and other pollinators, so you don’t want to risk ruining the appearance of these white or pink flowers.

Pruning too late into spring is one sure-fire way to badly affect the flowering, as you’ll be cutting off buds to carry that year’s display. Getting carried away with post-blooming pruning is also not advisable, as you sacrifice berries that can be vital food for birds in winter.

Another important error to avoid is pruning cotoneaster in the fall. The trimming will encourage lots of lush, new growth that will be damaged by frosts in colder climates, leaving the shrub stressed and more vulnerable to pests and diseases.

How to Prune Cotoneaster

The approach you take to prune cotoneaster will depend on how it is growing, as there are different varieties with either upright or spreading growth habits. It will also differ on whether they are being utilized as shrubs, small trees, or hedges in your backyard ideas.

Let’s start with cotoneasters being grown as ground cover plants, those with prostrate branches that spread widely to cover the soil and smother weeds. For this, you want a light touch to remove dead or diseased branches. A few cuts can be done to remove old stems, thin congested areas, and maintain a natural form, but otherwise, less is more for these cotoneasters.

Upright cotoneasters, such as specimen shrubs growing in flower beds or borders, may require a little more attention. The aim is a healthy, productive shrub that looks natural and informal, rather than artificially over-manicured.

Focus primarily on removing dead, dying, diseased, or broken branches, and then trim back any crossing or rubbing ones to open up the center of the shrub. Longer, straggly branches can be cut back to a leaf node or side branch to shape the shrub, and up to a third of the oldest branches can be completely removed if the center is too dense.

As for cotoneasters being grown as a hedge, the priority here is shaping, but that is not all that is involved. ‘Hedge shears or motorized hedge trimmers can be used to shape,’ advises Jim Barden. ‘In addition, some interior pruning should be done in conjunction to stimulate interior growth. Stimulating interior growth will help to maintain hedge size over time.’

While the pruning approach differs depending on type, what never changes is the importance of clean and sharp pruning tools. Sharp tools make clean cuts that the shrub finds easier to heal, and sanitized tools reduce the chances of infection.

Depending on the size of the cotoneaster, you may need pruning shears and loppers to complete the task. A pocket-sized garden tool sharpener from Amazon can be used to quickly sharpen pruning shears, hedge shears, or loppers ahead of doing any trimming.

FAQs

Can You Hard Prune Cotoneaster?

Cotoneaster are tough landscaping shrubs that can recover from hard pruning. While Matthew Wilson, professional gardener and CEO of Handy Gardeners, admits that ‘severe’ pruning can revive old, overgrown cotoneaster, he adds: ‘I would be inclined to do a staggered cut across two seasons to avoid shock’.

The best way to renovate an overgrown cotoneaster is to remove up to half the stems one year, allow it to respond, and then do the other half the following year. While cotoneaster can tolerate hard pruning, even coming back from being cut to ground level, you will sacrifice lots of flowers and berries for a few years. Spreading the pruning over two seasons is kinder on the shrub and also means you still get a nice display.

Cotoneaster blooms in late spring and early summer. If you do plan any post-blooming trimming, or just want to expand your collection of shrubs, you can take plant cuttings in midsummer, as evergreen varieties of cotoneaster can be propagated by semi-ripe cuttings.

For this, you use the current season’s growth that is soft at the tip, but firmer at the base. It needs trimming to 4-6 inches, cutting below a leaf node, and taking off the tips of the stem with a sharp knife. Dip the cutting in rooting hormone (such as this rooting powder at Garden Goods Direct) before putting it into a pot filled with compost suitable for cuttings.

If you have a deciduous variety of cotoneaster, the recommended route is to propagate these using softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer.

Tools for Pruning Cotoneaster

Pruning a loquat tree is important for many reasons. It shapes the tree, controls its size, keeps it healthy, and ensures you get a good harvest of the juicy, aromatic fruits. But they are sensitive trees and can be stressed by over-pruning, so you need to be careful with the tools.

To maintain the long-term health and happiness of these tropical fruit trees, it is essential to understand both when and how to prune a loquat tree. You can grow a loquat tree in a sunny spot in a wide choice of climates and spaces, including smaller and urban gardens, when pruning becomes even more crucial to keep them compact.

The best way to approach pruning a loquat tree is to do it gently and gradually, and avoid overpruning and unnecessarily stressing the tree. To discover the best methods, I spoke with experienced gardeners and tree experts to reveal how to prune so that any loquat trees recover well and produce fruits for you to enjoy.

Why, When, and How to Prune a Loquat Tree – What the Experts Say

Loquat tree pruning is essential for a great harvest of fruits. Loquats are tip-bearing fruits, meaning they form flowers and fruit on the tips of new branches. As older branches get leggy, regular pruning shapes the tree and encourages the development of more fruiting wood and branch tips closer to the center of the tree.

Trimming loquat trees also keeps them healthy and compact, making harvesting easier. Without pruning, a loquat tree is capable of growing to over 20 feet.

The task may require several pruning tools, depending on the size of the tree, but if you need tools, this 4-in-1 pruning set at Amazon comes with pruning shears, loppers, hedge shears, and a pruning saw – it contains all you need for the job.

When to Prune a Loquat Tree

Knowing the right time to prune fruit trees is crucial for ensuring their long-term health and achieving a bountiful harvest. Not all fruit trees are pruned at the same time, though; some want a winter trim, during their dormancy, and others a late spring or summer prune. So what is it for loquat trees?

The best time to prune a loquat tree is in late winter or early spring, after the fruits have been harvested and before the fruit tree starts to grow again for the new season. This timing provides the tree with sufficient time to heal and grow strongly come spring.

There are tangible benefits to pruning a loquat tree at this time of year. One of these, says Lisa Tadewaldt, tree care expert and owner of Urban Forest Pro, is that it can make pruning easier.

‘Winter pruning allows you to clearly see the tree’s structure and make deliberate cuts without interfering with flowering or fruit development,’ claims Lisa. She adds: ‘It also minimizes stress and helps the tree direct energy efficiently when growth resumes.’

You can also prune a loquat tree lightly in the summer to remove damaged branches or unwanted water sprouts, without affecting the overall production of fruit. But Lisa advises avoiding removing too many branches in summer, warning: ‘It can reduce the tree’s ability to support fruit and increase stress during warmer months.’

One additional fruit tree pruning mistake to avoid is pruning too late in summer, particularly in some regions. Maksim Kazakou, resident botany expert at Plantum, warns against this, as he says: ‘In areas with cold winters, pruning too late won’t let new growth harden off, making it more vulnerable to low temperatures.’

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How to Prune a Loquat Tree

Loquat tree pruning requires a delicate touch and must only ever be done with clean and sharp pruning tools. Ahead of trimming, choose the goal you want to achieve and try to do that in as few cuts as possible.

The best first step is to remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as any that are crossing, rubbing, or growing inwards towards the trunk. Removing these select branches helps improve light and airflow into the canopy, which is crucial for a healthy tree.

The longest branches of the tree can then be cut back, and the overall height and shape formed by trimming them back to a leaf node and cutting at a 45-degree angle.

If the canopy still looks dense at this stage of pruning, carefully remove one or two more branches to open up congested areas. However, here it is important to be conservative with trimming, as loquats are sensitive to over-pruning.

‘Mature loquat trees often develop very dense canopies, which can tempt over-pruning,’ warns Lisa. ‘Instead of removing too much at once, it’s better to spread structural pruning over multiple years to avoid shocking the tree.’

Christy Wilhelmi, experienced gardener and founder at Gardenerd, hails the positive effects of taking a ‘gradual pruning’ approach with loquat trees, such as shaping and thinning a third of the tree at a time – and this can have a beneficial impact on yields year after year.

‘We usually recommend pruning about one-third of the tree's branches in year one, then another third in year two, and another third in year three to prevent triggering an alternate bearing habit, where the tree doesn't produce or produces very little the next year, and then produces a bumper crop the year after that,’ says Christy.

‘Gradual pruning helps maintain the canopy and keeps some fruiting tips active for next year.’

The stress from over-pruning a loquat tree shows in many ways, including reduced vigor, increased susceptibility to pests and diseases, and the vigorous growth of suckers or water sprouts. As flowering and fruting are also going to be affected, remember the one-third pruning rule and don’t prune more than this in one season.

FAQs

How Should I Prune a Young Loquat Tree?

The primary focus for the first few years after planting fruit trees is on formative pruning to get a well-shaped and healthy loquat tree.

This is done in late winter or early spring, and you should cut back long shoots (those longer than 2-3 feet) to encourage lateral, bushier growth and a well-shaped tree. It is also important to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood and crossing branches that can rub and create entry points for disease.

Ultimately, it is best to control the height at 6-12 feet to make maintenance and harvesting easier for the coming years.

Once you have a well-shaped, established tree, continue to trim it lightly each year as outlined above.

A loquat tree ranks among the best drought-tolerant fruit trees you can add to your backyard. It makes them perfect for warmer climates or any gardener looking to enjoy homegrown fruit without worrying about diligently watering plants.

If you want to enjoy a more stress-free experience with fruit trees, the likes of fig trees, pomegranates, olives, persimmons, and jujubes are also drought-tolerant trees that reward your care with tasty fruit.

If you have hedges on your property, they will need pruning, and you may be able to do them this month. Regular trimming ensures any hedge remains looking good and under control, rather than becoming an overgrown mess that encroaches into or dominates your garden.

There are many windows to prune hedges, depending on your location and the type of hedge, and January can be a safe time to prune deciduous hedges. Simply pick a dry, mild day to head out and trim, and always avoid pruning hedges during freezing weather.

I have spent countless hours, days, and weeks pruning hedges during the winter months. I worked in large, historic gardens filled with large hedges, and many of the deciduous hedges were trimmed through January. It can be a good time to prune hedges, as the structure is visible, and here are seven hedges you can prune in January.

7 Hedges to Prune in January - What You Should and Shouldn't Trim

It is safest to stick with pruning deciduous hedging plants in January. Evergreen hedges are more at risk of damage from frost and cold winds, so, unless you live in a warm US hardiness zone, it is recommended that you wait until early spring.

This guide looks at seven deciduous hedges to prune in January, and includes information on how to trim and any pruning tools you may need.

1. Hawthorn

A hawthorn hedge can be stunning, with white flowers in spring and red berries in the fall, and it makes an excellent deciduous hedge for wildlife.

One of the other perks of hawthorn hedges is that they are very low-maintenance, and could even be classed as hedges that thrive on neglect. They won’t need watering or feeding once established, but do need at least an annual prune to keep them compact.

Hawthorn is a fast-growing hedging plant, so trimming is a definite, and mid-winter can be an ideal time for major hawthorn pruning. Because hawthorn hedges are thorny, thornproof gardening gloves are vital when pruning, such as these thick thornproof gloves from Amazon.

2. Beech

Beech is one of the most popular plants for a dense privacy hedge. It has bright green leaves (there are purple varieties of beech, too, which are confusingly known as copper beech) that turn a glorious orange color come fall.

When landscaping with hedges, beech is a versatile and fast-growing plant that is great at reducing noise and providing seclusion. It even retains the leaves in winter to give a year-round screen.

Pruning beech in winter promotes strong growth come spring. It is an ideal time for major pruning to remove dead, diseased, and damaged growth and to shape the top and sides of the hedge. If you do want to renovate the hedge and remove a lot of height, it is better to do it over the course of two or three years.

What is important is always using clean and sharp tools, like hedge shears, to prune your hedge. A multipurpose garden tool sharpener, like this one available on Amazon, can put a sharp edge on any pruning or hedging shears.

3. Hornbeam

A hornbeam hedge is often mistaken for beech, as they do have a similar appearance. The difference is that hornbeam has distinctive oval-shaped leaves with serrated edges that turn from green in summer to golden yellow during the fall.

The dense growth of hornbeam provides year-round privacy, as it retains some leaves throughout winter. The hedge can effectively form a screen against wind and reduce noise pollution.

Hornbeam is a low-maintenance hedge plant that responds well to pruning. It often needs two cuts a year. A trim in mid-to-late winter can keep it tidy and compact, which is especially key if the hedge forms part of a formal garden where shape and uniformity are essential. A second light trim can take place in summer.

If you want to rejuvenate or hard-prune a hornbeam to reduce its size, winter is the time to do it. For this job, a pair of sharp loppers will be required, such as these Corona bypass loppers from Garden Goods Direct that can cut branches up to 1.5 inches in diameter.

4. Hedge maple

Hedge maple is also known as field maple or common maple. It is a tough plant ideal for urban hedges, due to its ability to grow in any soil type. It even makes a great hedging plant for chalky soil.

It is a small to medium-sized hedge plant with dense foliage, making it perfect for screening. The leaves have five rounded lobes and turn a beautiful yellow in the fall, while the hedge maple also produces small yellow flowers in spring and winged fruits for seasonal interest.

You should prune the hedge maple during dormancy from November through January. It is a pruning mistake to cut the hedge maple when it is actively growing, as it will bleed sap that is unsightly and also makes the plant susceptible to pests and diseases.

Provided it is not freezing, January is an ideal opportunity to shape the hedge or do any major pruning.

5. Hazel

Hazel can make a fast-growing privacy screen or windbreak for a wildlife garden. It provides food and shelter for wildlife throughout the year, from early pollen for bees to cobnuts in the fall. It need not just be for wildlife, though, as hazel also makes a great edible hedge plant if you want to enjoy homegrown nuts yourself in summer and fall.

Hazel is also a low-maintenance hedge that can grow in lots of locations and soil types. Whether sunny or part-shade, as long as the soil is free-draining, hazel can adapt and thrive.

A hazel hedge requires annual pruning from late January to March to keep it neat and controlled. Winter is also the time for hard pruning hazel, if your mission is to rejuvenate an older hedge or even coppice it to ground level.

Coppicing hedges is a traditional way of cutting down and rejuvenating overgrown hedges, and you will need a pruning saw to cut the stems down if you wish to go down this route. A folding pruning saw, like this one at Amazon, can cut branches up to 7-10 inches.

6. Blackthorn

A blackthorn hedge is tough in several ways. Firstly, it is an ideal intruder-proof hedge plant thanks to its thorns. It prevents unwanted animals or humans from getting through – a perfect plant for home security. Blackthorn also tolerates poor soil types and strong winds, making it a good choice for coastal gardens.

It is tough, but also beautiful and generous. Blackthorn produces white blossoms on bare branches in spring, which are popular with bees and other pollinators, and sloes in fall that are a food source for many birds.

The plant’s spikey demeanour also makes a perfect shelter for many insects, birds, and small mammals.

You definitely need eye protection and thick gloves to prune blackthorn hedges during their winter dormancy. As it is vigorous, lightly trim annually to remove dead, damaged, or diseased stems, and shape the hedge.

Blackthorn is also known to produce suckers, so remove these to stop it from spreading.

7. Pleached Limes

An alternative form of hedging is to create a natural floating screen by growing pleached trees. This method of training trees has been done for centuries, and it is a perfect solution for any homeowner who fears being overlooked or wants a natural screen to block an unattractive building.

Lime is a popular tree for pleaching, together with beech and hornbeam, which also feature on this list of hedges to prune in January.

If you have any of those three growing as pleached trees on your property, they do need pruning twice a year. One is a major prune that takes place in winter while the trees are dormant, and the other is a second, albeit lighter, summer trim.

The winter trim is a time to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches and shorten back the long shoots to shape the hedge for the season ahead.

A good pair of hedging shears is the best tool at your disposal for this job, like these Fiskars hedge shears at Amazon with serrated blades and shock-absorbing bumpers to make it more comfortable to trim for extended periods.

If you live in milder climates, it can be safe to prune evergreen hedges towards the end of January. The likes of yew and holly are two contenders that you can do light pruning on in late winter, once the worst of the freezing conditions are over.

Overall, the start of the year can be a quieter time, but there are important jobs to do. For example, if you are looking for more inspiration, this guide to plants to prune in January reveals some popular shrubs that may benefit from a bit of attention this month.

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January can be a mixed bag for gardeners, with what you can and can’t do dictated by the weather, and also your mood. Sometimes it is simply too cold or snowy to garden, but on bright days, some tasks need to be done. If the opportunity arises, and you fancy some major trimming this month, then there are some trees to prune in January for a seasonal gardening fix.

But please be careful about judging when to prune trees. Only head out on bright non-frosty days, and, if there are hard frosts or snow predicted in the coming days, don’t risk the health of the tree by pruning. Don’t make weather-related tree pruning mistakes, especially as the window to trim deciduous trees runs until late winter or early spring.

Whether you have the opportunity to prune trees this month will depend on your local climate and the weather conditions. But if you do, it can be an ideal time to trim and shape many deciduous ornamental and fruiting trees. With that in mind, here we reveal seven trees to prune in January, plus provide some expert trimming tips to help you on your way.

7 Trees to Prune in January – Be Ready For Trimming

Before doing any trimming, take a moment to ensure your pruning tools are sharp and ready for the job.

Keeping your tools sharp will make trimming easier. It also means you make cuts that any tree can heal without undue issues. You do need a mix of pruning tools for trees, so you have the right tool for different branch thicknesses.

This Fiskars pruning set at Walmart has pruning shears, loppers, and a pruning saw, which can be all you need for tree trimming. And a simple pocket-sized sharpener like this one at Amazon is ideal for putting a sharp edge on shears and loppers in preparation. Your trees will thank you for using sharp and appropriate tools to prune tree branches.

1. Rowan

Also known as the mountain ash, rowan trees are found across much of North America. With white blossom followed by red berries that look stunning and make a great food source for birds, the rowan offers year-round beauty.

Therefore, knowing when and how to prune rowan trees ensures you trim them correctly to ensure you get the best display of berries. It also prevents branches from being overwhelmed by the sheer quantity of fruit and snapping under all that weight.

The best time to prune is during the tree’s dormancy, from November to February. Provided the weather conditions are right, January can be an ideal time to give your rowan tree some TLC.

Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with any crossing or growing inwards. This opens up the canopy to allow more air circulation and light penetration, which helps keep the tree healthy.

You can shape and thin the canopy to give it a good, even form, but don’t remove more than 20% of the branches in one go. A pair of clean, sharp pruning shears, such as these Felco F2 pruners at Amazon, can be ideal tools for removing smaller branches or suckers.

2. Sassafras

A sassafras tree stands out thanks to its distinctive lobed and aromatic foliage. These leaves, which often resemble a mitten, start green in spring and turn fiery shades of yellow, red, and orange in the fall for a spectacular seasonal display.

Sassafras is a native tree found throughout eastern North America and generally requires minimal pruning. When pruning is necessary, it should be done during dormancy.

The two main aspects of trimming are removing dead, damaged, diseased, or weak branches and cutting away suckers to prevent the formation of spreading clumps.

Always wear thick gardening gloves when handling or working with sassafras plants, as they contain a compound considered carcinogenic. You can get thick gardening gloves at Walmart to keep yourself safe when growing sassafras.

3. Balsam Poplar

Poplar trees are North American hardwoods that can live for centuries, and Balsam poplar gets its name from its pointed leaves and fragrant buds that emit a smell reminiscent of balsam fir trees.

It is not just this type of poplar that is best pruned in winter, but any of the fast-growing poplars.

Dormancy is the best time to lightly trim and shape trees, as well as do any larger-scale maintenance pruning. It is an ideal time to see the skeleton of branches without leaves, and it reduces stress on the tree.

To prune poplar trees, aim to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Also, identify and remove any crossing or rubbing stems that can create entry points for diseases, and remove any suckers that will steal energy away from the rest of the tree.

A pair of loppers and a pruning saw will be required for larger branches, such as this folding pruning saw at Walmart, which can cut through branches up to five inches in diameter.

4. Mulberry

Mulberry trees are low-maintenance trees that produce tart, juicy fruits ideal for jams, jellies, and puddings. These fruit trees don’t require lots of pruning, and you can have a healthy mulberry tree that fruits well with only a few cuts.

It is recommended to do your mulberry pruning while the tree is dormant to reduce stress and avoid it bleeding sap. Another good rule of thumb is to never prune branches over two inches in diameter. This is because the mulberry tree struggles to heal over large pruning cuts, and large wounds leave it susceptible to pests and diseases.

Work with a gentle hand to remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, crossing or weak branches, and a few selected stems to thin out congested areas of the canopy. Finally, remove any suckers around the base of the tree.

5. American Linden

Tilea americana, known as the American Linden or American Basswood, is native to eastern North America and makes a great tree for shade.

However, it is also notorious for being a fast-growing hardwood tree, which makes regular pruning essential to keep it contained in a backyard. If you have the space, it produces heart-shaped leaves and fragrant flowers, and you’ll see birds attracted to the seeds and shelter it provides.

Pruning is best carried out every three to five years to manage the tree's shape and structure. This task must be done while the tree is dormant, before the sap begins to rise. Remove dead, damaged, and crossing branches, as well as crowded areas and low-hanging branches.

An extendable pruner, such as this tree pruner and pole saw at Amazon, will likely be required, but professional assistance may need to be brought in for trimming very large American linden trees.

6. Honey Locust

Honey locust trees are deciduous and don’t usually need much maintenance or pruning. They can be resilient trees that thrive in cities, with fine, fern-like foliage and a spreading canopy.

Honey locusts offer stunning color, and modern cultivated varieties offer a thornless and podless alternative to traditional wild types. For example, a popular variety is Skyline, and you can get a striking Skyline Honey locust tree at Fast Growing Trees.

Honey locust trees will benefit from light pruning during dormancy to remove dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches, and do any light shaping as required. But it should all be done with a light touch.

Remember the one-third pruning rule and avoid heavy pruning, which will impact the health and result in uncontrolled regrowth.

7. Crabapple

Crabapple trees are really low-maintenance trees for your backyard ideas and do not require lots of regular pruning.

These tough and reliable plants are great trees for small gardens, and they want to be pruned before the new leaves for the year have started developing. In areas with milder winters, they can be pruned from late-January onwards once the worst of the winter weather has passed.

One priority with crabapple pruning is to remove congested branches to open up the air circulation through the tree, which is key to preventing diseases, as well as removing water sprouts and suckers.

The former grow profusely in the angle between branches, while suckers develop at the base of the tree, and both should be removed as they divert precious energy away from the rest of the tree.

If you want more inspiration for January gardening jobs, we’ve got you covered. This guide to plants to prune in January contains deciduous shrubs and vines that will reward you with a top display after pruning this month.

You can also see these guides on vegetables to plant in January and flowers to sow in January to get your new gardening year off to a highly productive start.

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A bright January day can offer an ideal chance for a spot of pruning. Provided there is no frost or snow around, there are fruit trees that can benefit from trimming this month, but not all. Certain fruit trees are plants to never prune in January, and here we reveal which are on that no-go list.

Understanding when to prune fruit trees and when to refrain from using pruning tools is key to maintaining quality fruit trees. Get it right, and you have healthy, well-shaped trees that produce bumper harvests. However, get it wrong, and you risk fruit trees being vulnerable to pests and diseases.

We want to help you avoid making that fruit tree pruning mistake. I have looked after a wide variety of fruit trees as a professional horticulturist, and here I reveal seven fruit trees you should never prune in winter. If you do want to prune this January, you’ll be able to target the right trees confidently.

Fruit Trees Never to Prune in January – 7 to Avoid

One easy way to remember is that fruit trees with pips are routinely pruned in winter. That means the likes of apples, pears, and quinces are fruit trees to prune in winter, though, admittedly, there are ‘pipless’ fruit trees that you can prune during the season, including mulberries, medlars, and jujube trees. Ahead of any trimming, keep your pruning tools sharp with a pocket-sized tool sharpener like this on Amazon.

However, you never want to prune stone fruits in winter, as these are ideally left until late spring, for reasons I’ll outline later. But there are others, as well as stone fruits, to avoid.

On that note, the below are fruit trees never to prune in January. I will reveal when to trim each, and a few tips for how to prune the fruit trees.

1. Apricots

Apricot trees are sun-loving fruit trees, and many gardeners enjoy the delectable, aromatic fruits fresh from the tree. They can grow as standalone specimens, as trained fan or espalier trees, and are ideal fruit trees to grow in pots.

Wherever you grow apricot trees, they want routine pruning as they are fast-growing fruit trees. When it comes to when to prune an apricot tree, never do this in winter, as it leaves them susceptible to silver leaf and canker. Silver leaf is a fungal disease that infects trees through pruning wounds, and the bacteria which cause it are more prevalent in winter.

Best practice is to trim young trees in spring and established apricot trees in summer after fruiting. This timing not only prevents disease but also helps an apricot tree to fruit prolifically. As apricots produce flowers and fruit on one-year-old wood, this timing gives the tree lots of time to develop wood to carry next year’s crop.

2. Cherries

When you grow a cherry tree, it will either be a sweet cherry or a sour cherry, and the group they belong to does make a difference in how to prune a cherry tree.

However, what doesn’t change is the best time to trim. This is mid-to-late summer, July or August, after the tree has produced its harvest of fruits. Just like with apricots, this helps to prevent silver leaf and canker.

Bacterial canker is a disease that can strike all stone fruit trees, but is particularly troublesome for plums and cherries. The tree is most resistant to the bacteria which cause it when pruned in the summer, and most vulnerable if trimmed in winter.

Where the pruning differs is that sweet cherries fruit on older wood and sour cherries fruit on last season’s growth. Sweet cherries need light pruning and a shortening of tips to encourage fruiting spurs and buds, while sour cherries need up to a quarter of older wood cutting back and young shoots trimmed to promote branching.

3. Peaches

Peach and nectarine trees adore sun and warmth, needing both in abundance to produce lots of fruit. But if you harbour any ambitions to have a thriving peach tree that fruits strongly and remains healthy, knowing when to prune a peach tree ensures this dream remains a reality.

Whether you are lucky enough to grow and care for peach trees outdoors in warmer climates or grow them in a greenhouse in milder zones, you want to prune them in spring or summer, but never winter.

A good time is just before they start growing in spring, or when the buds are first opening. If they are trimmed earlier in winter, then peaches (plus nectarines, which are related to peaches and subject to the same pruning guidance) are at risk of silver leaf. You can also trim them after fruiting in summer to control the size and prevent the tree from getting too top-heavy. This is especially vital if you grow the tree as a fan or espalier tree.

As for how to prune a peach tree, they fruit on the previous season’s wood, so remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches and cut back last season’s growth by around a half to encourage buds to carry a large harvest of peaches.

4. Plums

There are many types of plum trees, and they are grouped into dessert, culinary, or dual-purpose fruits. Despite all the variations available if you want to grow a plum tree, they are all fruit trees never to prune in January, primarily due to the serious risk to their health from silver leaf and bacterial canker.

When to prune plum trees depends on their age. Young plum trees, those up to three years old, are best trimmed in spring as the buds are starting to break. While established plum trees are best pruned in midsummer.

In terms of how to prune plum trees, the good news is that they don’t need lots of attention when established. Remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, together with any crossing or growing inwards towards the trunk. Cutting back new shoots to 6-8 inches will also encourage fruiting spurs and many buds, helping a plum tree to fruit.

5. Damsons

Damsons are a type of plum that produces harder and smaller fruits than other varieties, which are perfect for cooking, making jams and jellies, and even liqueurs. Pruning is an important task to keep any specimen healthy and get a damson tree to fruit abundantly.

This trimming when you grow a damson tree is best done in late spring or early summer for established trees, to prevent silverleaf and canker. Young trees, though, those less than three years, can be lightly shaped in the spring.

6. Jackfruit

It is not just stone fruit that are plants to never prune in January; there are other fruit trees to avoid trimming. This includes the jackfruit tree, the largest tree fruit in the world, capable of growing up to 80 pounds.

As jackfruits are immensely popular nowadays as a meat substitute, it means many more gardeners may be interested in trying to grow these tropical fruits at home. And you can get a live jackfruit tree at Fast Growing Trees. Jackfruits need warm climates to grow outdoors year-round, but can be grown in containers as patio trees and moved indoors for winter.

Regular pruning keeps a jackfruit contained and growing at a reasonable height. As they produce fruit at the base, this pruning makes sense and ensures they are productive and manageable. The best time to prune is after fruiting, often in summer or early fall, especially if you are growing the tree in subtropical or milder climates.

7. Mango

Mango trees come in a variety of sizes, producing fruits with different flavors. You may not need to prune a mango tree every year, but they do require some attention every few years to prevent them from getting out of control.

Whenever you intend to trim, always wear gloves and long-sleeved clothing (such as these floral gardening sleeves at Amazon) to protect your skin from chemicals within the tree that are known to cause contact dermatitis.

If you grow mango trees in warmer US hardiness zones, it is best to trim them after harvesting and get the task completed before the onset of winter. Gardeners in cooler climates (and mangoes are hardy enough to grow outside down to US hardiness zone 9) are best to prune in early spring.

Young mango trees need pruning to develop a strong framework of branches and an open structure. When established, remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches, and any crowded stems in the center of the tree. Thinning out a couple of branches per year can keep it under control and fruiting.

We’ve discussed plants to never prune in January here, but what about those that definitely will benefit from a trim this month? Well, this guide to plants to prune in January features shrubs and vines that you can prune this month and will reward you with a stunning display later in the season.

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The start of the year isn’t the easiest time for gardening. It can sometimes be tough to ward up the motivation to head outside when it is cold and frosty. When the weather breaks and provides bright January days, and you're eager to get a gardening fix, there are plenty of plants to prune in January that you can get on with.

Most trees, shrubs, and perennial plants are dormant during the wintertime, and it can certainly be easier to prune deciduous trees and shrubs when they are without leaves. The best plants to prune in January are those that produce flowers or fruit on new growth.

With a bit of trimming, you can give them a tidy that’ll improve their health and reward you with lots of blooms or fruits. I have spent countless days pruning shrubs throughout winter, and here are seven plants to prune in January to get you out into the yard and back into the gardening swing for the new year. Definitely add these to your winter gardening checklist.

7 Plants to Prune in January

Remember this simple rule. The best plants to prune in January are those that flower on new growth, whether it is trees, shrubs, fruit bushes, or perennial plants. You want to avoid trimming any that bloom on old wood. It would be a pruning mistake to cut those, as you’ll be removing the buds to carry the flowers this year.

The following are all recommended plants to prune in January. I’ll include some trimming tips for each of them to help you confidently prune. The first piece of advice is to always use clean, sharp pruning tools. A pocket-sized sharpener like this on Amazon can be a worthwhile investment to keep your pruning shears sharp while out in the yard.

1. Hydrangeas That Bloom on New Growth

Knowing when to prune hydrangeas means understanding the types you are growing in your yard.

It can sound complicated to anyone new to growing hydrangeas, as different types are pruned at certain times of the year. As discussed above, it depends on how the flowering shrub blooms; those that flower on new wood can be pruned in winter, while those that bloom on old growth are pruned in summer, after flowering.

So, if you have panicle hydrangeas, such as the popular ‘Limelight’ hydrangeas, or smooth hydrangeas, including the classic favorite ‘Annabelle’ hydrangeas, these are the ones to prune in January.

As for how to prune hydrangeas this month, trim away any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, as well as any crossing branches. Shape the shrub by pruning back around one-third of the growth to invigorate new flowering stems.

A pair of sturdy loppers can be crucial for this task, especially for removing thicker stems, and these Fiskars bypass loppers at Walmart can efficiently cut stems up to 1.5 inches thick.

2. Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon shrubs don’t always need pruning, but you do get a better display of blooms by trimming them during dormancy. The showy trumpet-shaped flowers are borne on buds produced on new wood in the spring, so trimming too late negatively impacts any potential display.

To prune a Rose of Sharon, remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any weak growth, crossing stems, and any growing in unwanted directions. Then shape the shrub by cutting up to a third off the remaining stems. This trimming of the tips will encourage bushier growth and more flowers.

You can aggressively prune a Rose of Sharon by cutting the plant back harder in winter. However, while this can control the size of the shrub, it does so at the expense of flowers. You will get a smaller display of blooms.

If you plan any hard pruning of trees and shrubs this winter and need to trim extra-thick branches, a pruning saw will be best for the job. For example, this folding pruning saw at Amazon can cut branches up to six inches thick with its sharp-toothed blade.

3. Crepe Myrtle

Winter is an ideal time to shape and prune crepe myrtle to give yourself a stunning display of fragrant, bright blooms come late spring and summer. Remember when to prune a crepe myrtle; leave it too late and you’ll be left with a crepe myrtle not flowering, as you’ll have removed the buds developed on this year’s growth.

Pruning is recommended to prevent the shrub from getting overgrown and new flowers from being impeded by lots of older growth. A trimmed crepe myrtle also benefits from air circulation and light penetration, which helps keep it healthy.

It is best to prune crepe myrtle lightly; selective pruning is better than removing a huge amount of branches. As usual, remove dead, diseased, and damaged wood and any branches that are crossing.

You can trim stems and shape the shrub, but remember the one-third pruning rule to never remove more than a third of the branches, which can overly stress it.

A quality set of pruning shears will be your go-to tool for all manner of shrub pruning, so you want one that will last many seasons. These Felco F2 pruning shears at Amazon are professional-grade tools, and all parts are replaceable, so they can last a lifetime.

4. Summer-Flowering Clematis

When you grow clematis, the various species and cultivars are separated into three groups. The ground any type of clematis belongs to dictates when to prune clematis.

It is the late summer-flowering clematis that are in group three that can be cut back hard in winter. This regular trimming stops the plants from becoming a tangled mess with a bare base and flowers only at the top. Instead, you get an attractive climber with lots of blooms where you can enjoy them.

The good news is that pruning group three clematis is simple to do. When you see signs of new growth, which can be as early as late January in some climates, take your sharp pruning shears and cut all the stems back to a set of healthy buds situated around 12 inches above ground level.

This job can be done with a pair of sharp hedging shears, such as these sharp steel hedge shears at Walmart that feature soft, non-slip grips to absorb the shock from trimming and reduce fatigue over long periods of time.

5. Blackcurrants

You can grow currants of many colors, including blackcurrant, whitecurrant, redcurrant, and pinkcurrant bushes, which all require pruning in winter to provide you with bumper harvests of fruit year after year. The pruning takes place during dormancy, and January can be an ideal time to get the task done on a bright day.

Blackcurrants are a particular favorite of mine, and they require a slightly different pruning technique than some of the other currants. To prune blackcurrants, established bushes want a third of the oldest wood cut down to ground level each year – it is as simple as that.

This will allow younger stems to come through. As the bushes fruit strongest on two and three-year-old wood, you want a continuous cycle of removing unproductive wood and encouraging the development of new branches to keep the bush as productive as possible.

Also, remove any diseased stems, damaged branches, weak and spindly stems, and any low-lying branches that will droop on the ground when laden with fruits.

To prune redcurrant bushes this month, for example, requires a slightly different technique. You remove a selection of the oldest branches and then cut the side-shoots across the rest of the bush back to two buds.

6. Grapes

Grape vines are fast-growing and benefit from an annual trim during dormancy. Understanding when to prune grape vines will depend on where they are growing. Indoor vines are trimmed in December, while the window to prune outdoor grapes opens in January.

The trimming needs to be done after the last hard frosts, and before they start growing again, which can be from January to March, depending on your climate. But getting the timing right is pivotal, as once grape vines start actively growing, they’ll bleed sap when pruned and be susceptible to pests and diseases.

When it comes to how to prune grape vines, once established, the task can be as simple as cutting all the dormant canes back to two or three buds from the main vine. As grapes fruit on new growth, pruning encourages the development of new stems to carry that year’s crop.

If your grape vines grow above head height, you may need a sturdy ladder to reach when pruning. Alternatively, you can use a set of extendable loppers like these on Amazon, which have six adjustable lengths and can cut branches up to two inches in diameter.

7. Kiwi

Kiwi may be a more unusual fruit to grow, but when you do have one growing, it needs regular pruning to keep the vine controlled and give you the best harvest of fruit.

These vigorous climbers can thrive in a warm, sheltered growing position, but need space and large supports. This is worth considering if you want to add a kiwi to your fruit collection, or even try to grow a kiwi from seed, which is doable but requires care and patience.

It is recommended to train and regularly prune kiwi. Growing them as espaliers is often the best route for thriving plants and great yields. The time to prune kiwi vines comes during dormancy, and it is a task to do before the vines start actively growing again; otherwise, they will bleed sap.

Once kiwi vines are established as espaliers, trim lateral shoots that fruited last year back to a strong new shoot. Also, select stems that didn’t fruit last year, and cut these stems back to three or four buds. Winter is also an ideal time to remove any weak shoots, tangled growth, and congested stems.

If you have any intricate pruning that requires a more precise tool, then a pair of gardening snips can prove highly useful. These gardening snips from Walmart have straight stainless steel blades that can get into tight areas and are ideal for pruning or snipping flowers or fruits.

If you want more inspiration to get back into the garden at the start of the year, we are here to help. This guide to eight garden jobs to do in January is packed with a whole host of tasks to get your new gardening year off to a great start.

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December is midwinter, and can be a risky time for pruning. Any pruning of trees and shrubs has to be done at the right time, if at all, during the month. But there are some plants you should never use the pruning tools on in December.

The potential dangers of pruning the wrong plants in December include removing flower buds, ruining any potential display, and making plants more vulnerable to damage from cold and frost. Some may also bleed heavily from winter pruning, and be at a higher risk of infection if cut this month.

To help you avoid making any pruning mistakes this month, this guide features seven plants to never prune in December. Keeping the pruning tools away from these plants will avoid destroying blooms, stressing trees or shrubs, causing dieback, or putting any plants in your yard at unnecessary risk.

7 more plants to never prune in December

This isn’t the first article on this topic I have written. This time last year, I highlighted seven plants to never prune in December, for many of the reasons outlined above. However, I know many more susceptible plants could do with being pointed out, so there is a need for a follow-up piece. Bearing that in mind, check out those trees and shrubs in the first article to see which feature in your yard, and then here are seven more plants to never prune in December.

1. Lilac

Lilacs are spring-flowering shrubs grown for their sweet-smelling spring blooms, and you need to understand when to prune lilacs to get the best display. You can deadhead lilacs to neaten the plant, but the time to prune lilacs is after flowering.

As lilacs flower on old wood developed the previous season, they form buds throughout the summer. If you prune them in fall or winter, you’re removing all the stems that will carry next spring’s flowers. It is as simple as winter pruning cuts off the blooms.

2. Forsythia

Forsythia stands out with bright yellow blooms early in the year, and its golden flowers provide some light relief at the end of a cold winter. The danger is that, by pruning in winter, you can deny yourself this pleasurable sight.

The ideal time to prune forsythia is after flowering. This can be from April to June, depending on your climate. Forsythia also blooms on last year’s stems, and pruning in fall or winter removes all next spring’s flowering branches.

So, when is it too late to prune forsythia? The answer is from late spring onwards.

3. Boxwood

Boxwood is a very useful and versatile evergreen shrub. Whether you want standalone shrubs, beautifully shaped topiary, or smart formal garden hedges, the small leaves of boxwood are ideal.

The ideal window to trim boxwood bushes is in spring or summer. Pruning boxwood in winter can stress the shrub and also cause boxwood leaves to turn yellow due to cold burn caused by frosts and freezing winds.

4. Mock Orange

Mock orange, or Philadelphus, is a popular shrub for its white, fragrant flowers that offer a glorious citrusy scent. There are different mock orange varieties to choose from, including a range of sizes suitable for all manner of backyard ideas.

The one thing that is true across all types of mock orange is the correct pruning window. Like other flowering shrubs on this list, mock orange blooms on wood produced the previous year. It means they are pruned after flowering in June or July.

Pruning any later, especially during winter, sees you cut off next year’s flowers. Gardeners who want to rejuvenate older shrubs can hard prune in winter, at the expense of blooms. But it is better to slowly reinvigorate a shrub by removing a few of the oldest stems each year; you’ll get fewer flowers but not lose out completely.

5. Poplar

Poplar trees are among a group known as ‘bleeder trees’, which also includes the likes of birch, elm, maple, willow and beech trees. These trees bleed sap heavily when pruned at the wrong time of year.

Poplar trees are best pruned in late spring or early summer. Once the leaves are fully developed, the sap is not flowing as actively as at other times of the year. The tree may still bleed a little, but it can handle the stress better and heal wounds quickly as it is actively growing.

Bleeding sap weakens a tree, leaving it more susceptible to pests and diseases. It is particularly advisable not to prune large branches of known ‘bleeder trees’ during the winter to avoid lots of sap loss and undue stress.

6. Peach trees

When you grow a peach tree, proper pruning ensures a healthy tree and the best harvest of soft, juicy fruits to enjoy.

As peaches are stone fruits, the general rule is to prune them in spring or summer. Stone fruits need a different timing from the likes of apples and pears, which are fruit trees routinely pruned in winter.

There are two main reasons to prune peaches in the spring or summer. As they fruit on the previous season’s wood, trimming encourages the growth of new fruiting stems. And it avoids silver leaf disease, a fungal disease that accesses trees through pruning wounds, turns foliage silver (as the name suggests) and has the potential to kill whole branches.

As well as peaches, nectarine and apricot trees should never be pruned in winter.

7. Plum trees

There are many different types of plum trees; it is a large group of stone fruits, including the likes of damsons and greengages, that include dessert, culinary, or dual-purpose fruits.

As stone fruits, they should also not be pruned in December. You prune plum trees during their growing season in spring or summer, rather than during winter dormancy.

Making the fruit tree pruning mistake of pruning plum trees in winter puts the tree at risk of silver leaf or bacterial canker, a disease that can cause dead areas of bark and holes in foliage.

Cherry trees are also very susceptible to bacterial canker, and you should also prune cherry trees in spring or summer rather than winter.

This piece has covered those plants to steer clear of, but there are some trees and shrubs that you can prune this month. This guide to plants to prune in December reveals seven of those. However, only prune when the weather fits, and avoid trimming during extreme cold and frosty periods. There is no harm in waiting until late winter to prune if the weather gods aren’t on your side this month.

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A lot of pruning in December depends on your climate. In colder and milder regions, plants go dormant in winter, which is perfect for pruning them, but you do want to avoid pruning during spells of extreme cold and frosty weather. It is always better to do your pruning on milder, frost-free days, and keep a close eye on local forecasts to avoid trimming just before extreme cold arrives.

While in warmer climates, plants may not go fully dormant, but there is a risk of early pruning forcing them to produce tender new shoots, which will be at risk during any cold snaps. It can make December pruning feel like a potential minefield, and the risk of making the pruning mistake of trimming at the wrong time may give inexperienced gardeners sleepless nights.

I have experience in winter pruning from over a decade of professional gardening. I have spent countless hours and days outside in the December cold trimming trees, shrubs, and fruit bushes. To help you plan your month, I highlight seven plants to prune in December here, but only trim them when the weather is suitable. There is no need to rush and get the job done this month, as the pruning window for deciduous trees and shrubs runs from early winter to early spring.

7 plants to prune in December, or not – don’t take any risks

Note pruning these plants on your winter gardening checklist, and trim them when the time is right based on your US hardiness zone and local seasonal climate.

Whether it is this month, next month, or late winter, it is better to wait and do it correctly rather than rush out with the pruning tools and risk losing them to cold.

1. Fall-bearing raspberries

By now, you should have pruned summer-fruiting raspberries, which is a job for fall. Come December, you can prune fall-fruiting raspberries, which, as the name suggests, will have been providing you with delicious raspberry harvests throughout fall.

Once the harvests stop, and the canes go dormant, this raspberry pruning is a quick and simple job to get out of the way in winter. Simply take a pair of sharp pruning shears and cut all the canes back to the ground. As fall-bearing raspberries produce fruit on new growth, the plant will send up canes in spring to carry next year’s goodies.

A quality pair of pruning shears is perfect for this task, and for years I’ve used a trusty pair of Felco pruners. You can get Felco F2 pruning shears at Amazon, and a real bonus to these strong tools is that every part is replaceable, so they can last you for many years to come.

2. Fig trees

When you grow a fig tree, it is pruned during dormancy. Many gardeners wait until late winter to prune fig trees, but it can be done in December in milder climates, provided it is sheltered, and there are no harsh frosts predicted.

If your fig tree is protected by being trained against a wall, for example, it opens up the possibility to prune that bit earlier. Indeed, in one historic garden I worked in, which was in zone 8, we annually pruned our wall-trained fig trees in December or January. Those in colder climates are best to wait until later to trim, but get it done before they start actively growing, as figs bleed sap when cut out of dormancy.

As for how to prune a fig tree in winter, focus on removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches and thinning congested areas to boost air and light penetration into the center of the tree.

Always use the right pruning tool for the task. When branches are wider than half an inch thick, that is too wide for pruning shears. Instead, use a pair of loppers, such as these heavy-duty loppers at Walmart that can cut branches up to two inches thick.

3. Barberry

Barberry, or berberis, offer color and interest throughout the year, and deciduous varieties make some of the best shrubs for fall berries and vibrant seasonal color. It is the deciduous types you can prune in December, but leave evergreen varieties until summer.

Winter dormancy offers a valuable opportunity to revamp and renovate barberry shrubs. As they can form thickets, a bit of TLC rewards you with a healthier plant and a fantastic display of blooms.

Before doing any pruning, though, make sure to have the correct safety gear. Barberry shrubs have sharp spines, which makes thornproof gardening gloves (such as these heavy-duty gardening gauntlets at Amazon) and eye protection crucially important.

To prune barberry in winter, remove any dead, diseased or damaged wood, along with any that are crossing or rubbing. To renovate the shrub, you can remove a few of the oldest stems to open up the center and encourage new shoots. It is also advisable to remove any suckers at the base.

4. Rambling roses

Many gardeners, even experienced ones, find rose pruning intimidating. Even though it can be daunting, regular pruning is essential for shapely and attractive roses. Proper pruning is potentially the most vital job when you grow and care for roses.

When it comes to rambling roses, in particular, they can get out of control if left unmanaged. And an ideal time to deal with any unruly ones is in December, especially as the heavy pruning can be made easier when you can see what you're doing once all the leaves have dropped.

To prune rambling roses that have gotten overgrown and need a heavier hand, don’t be afraid. They are resilient climbing plants that will bounce back once they start growing in spring.

Remove dead, damaged, and diseased stems, and identify around six healthy, vigorous stems you wish to keep. Cut all the others to the base, and then any side shoots from the remaining chosen stems can be shortened by up to a half to encourage bushy growth.

5. Apple trees

Free-standing apple trees are pruned during dormancy, and this forms a vital part of keeping trees healthy and productive.

Regular apple tree pruning means more productive wood and fruiting buds, and a canopy that gets more light and air circulation to reduce the risk of diseases and help ripen the fruit. An unpruned tree will be congested, diseased, and can grow to a size which makes picking apples more difficult.

You may need pruning shears, loppers, and a pruning saw to prune an apple tree. A pruning saw, such as Fiskars folding pruning saw at Amazon, is essential for cleanly pruning larger tree branches. Have a clear shape and intention in mind before pruning, and carefully think about each cut.

Remove dead, damaged, diseased, and crossing branches, along with any growing inwards towards the trunk and branches growing downwards from the center. Remove any weak or spindly stems, then cut back last year’s growth by a third to encourage the development of more spurs to carry fruit.

Avoid the fruit tree pruning mistake of removing more than 20% of the canopy. It can be counter-productive to be too heavy-handed, as it may encourage the growth of lots of watershoots.

6. Grapes

When you grow grapes, pruning is important to guarantee the best harvest. They fruit on one-year-old wood, so it means, when established, pruning ensures you have productive wood and a sustainable number of grapes to ripen. It also stops the fast-growing flowering vine from getting out of control.

Knowing when to prune grape vines depends on where they are growing. You prune grape vines during dormancy, as they profusely bleed sap when actively growing, and that can weaken the vine as a whole as well as attract pests and diseases.

If you grow grapes indoors, such as in a greenhouse, they will start growing earlier than outdoor vines. So it makes earlier pruning in December highly recommended. Younger vines are trained and shaped over several years, while mature grape vines are pruned by cutting the dormant canes back to two or three buds.

Sharp tools are essential to good pruning, so consider carrying a pocket-sized sharpening tool like this one on Amazon to keep pruning shears or loppers sharp ahead of any trimming.

7. Wisteria

Wisteria are rampant plants that require pruning to keep them under control and flowering at their best. Best practise is to prune wisteria twice a year, once in summer and once in winter. The winter prune helps to see the framework once the leaves drop, when you can shape and thin the flowering climber.

Thankfully, winter wisteria pruning is a very simple task. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged shoots, prune shoots to two or three buds, and take this opportunity to reshape the shrub. It is also a good time to train and tie in new stems.

Older wisteria that need a bit of renovation can have longer branches cut back or pruned out completely to aid congestion.

Before you head out to do any pruning this month, be aware that not all plants are suitable for trimming in winter. Check this guide to plants to never prune in December to see if any plants in your yard are featured. In particular, spring-flowering shrubs and trees that are known to bleed sap in winter rank among the worst plants to trim during December.

The lower temperatures and less light of November trigger deciduous trees to enter dormancy this month. As they begin their slumber for the colder months, the window for pruning them opens to the gardener. If you want to get ahead this month, here are seven trees to prune in November.

You have from now until early spring to give deciduous trees a potentially much-needed trim, and pruning on a bright day in late fall can often be more enjoyable than on a cold one in late winter. Starting early in the window also has its benefits if you have many trees and shrubs that need pruning before the end of winter. It can be satisfying to get some things ticked off on a nice day, as opposed to rushing at the back end of the window, desperately trying to get everything done.

There is quite a selection of plants that can be trimmed this month, including fruit trees, nut trees, and ornamental trees. Pruning in late fall was a regular task during my time as a professional gardener, especially when I had a long checklist of fruit trees to prune in one particular walled garden. It can be a busy month for gardeners, as there are potentially many plants to prune in November. Here we focus on the trees in your yard that may benefit from a trim.

7 trees to prune in November – why it's important to check before you cut

While many trees will benefit from some attention this month, not all will. You can risk the health of some trees by pruning, or badly affect the display of spring bloom for others.

There are some trees (for example, birch and walnuts) that will bleed sap and be susceptible to pests and diseases. There are others (for example, magnolias and flowering dogwoods), where you risk removing the buds that will carry next spring’s blooms.

And finally, stone fruit trees are not pruned during dormancy like other fruit trees. It is a fruit tree pruning mistake to trim them in dormancy, as they’ll be left at risk of diseases like silver leaf and bacterial canker.

Always check before doing any trimming to ensure you are not making a tree pruning mistake by trimming this month. However, all of the following are certainly trees to prune in November, and they will appreciate any TLC you give them over the coming weeks.

1. Apple

Let’s start with only of the most popular and widely grown fruit trees, apples.

Pruning is important for apples as most trees fruit on spurs, so any annual pruning promotes the growth of more buds to carry fruit. The trimming also controls the size and shape of the tree, ensuring the branches can support the weight of the fruits. Finally, it allows for air circulation and light penetration among the canopy, which keeps the tree healthy overall.

The window to prune an apple tree starts in November and runs until late winter or early spring. You want to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or growing inwards towards the central trunk of the tree. You ideally want an open goblet shape of well-spaced branches.

To promote lots of branching and the growth of fruiting spurs, trim last year’s growth by a third, cutting to an outward-facing bud. You can do this with a pair of sharp pruning shears.

I personally have a trusty pair of Felco 2 pruning shears that I have used to prune many fruit trees over my years as a professional gardener – and you can get new Felco F2 pruning shears on Amazon that can last for decades, as every part is replaceable.

When pruning espalier apple trees, winter pruning involves removing dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as any necessary trimming to maintain the trained tree's shape or thin congested spurs.

2. Pear

Pear trees are another of those ubiquitous fruit trees; millions of gardeners globally love them as the fruits from homegrown trees surpass any you get in stores. I have maintained free-standing and trained pear trees in kitchen gardens, and winter pruning maintains their shape and, like apples, promotes the formation of spurs to carry fruit.

Prune pear trees when they are dormant, but resist the urge to trim early, as it can stimulate new growth, which is damaged by frosts and leave the entire tree susceptible to pests and diseases.

Annual pruning always starts with removing dead, diseased or damaged branches. Next, look to thin the tree by removing crossing, weak, or unwanted branches to improve air and light circulation.

Again, aim for a goblet or vase shape, which can be slightly trickier with pears, as their branches grow more upright than apple trees. Trimming back each main branch by a third can promote spurs and reduce the length of branches to support the weight of the fruit. This is also helpful as pear wood is softer than apple wood.

Loppers are the best pruning tools for thicker branches; they are suitable for ones 1-2 inches thick, compared to one inch for pruning shears. A pair of extendable loppers like these at Amazon can also reach higher up into the tree to cut branches up to two inches thick.

3. Quince

Quinces were once very popular trees in colonial gardens, but they fell out of fashion. That is now changing, and growing quince trees is experiencing a bit of a resurgence. A good selling point for them is that they are easy fruit trees to grow, including not requiring lots of regular pruning.

You do need to prune quince trees annually when they are young, to give them a good framework of branches and an open goblet shape.

Established trees then mainly just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed, and weak, congested, or crossing branches trimmed out to open up the canopy and let more air and light in.

As quince trees fruit on tips at the end of their branches, any branches that get too long are best shortened, as the weight of the heavy fruits can cause them to snap. It is also advisable to remove suckers from around the base of the tree whenever you see them.

Quince trees can reach up to 20 feet tall, so you may need an extendable tree pruner to cut higher branches. This 2-in-1 extendable tree pruner at Amazon has a pruning blade and a pole saw head for trimming branches of different sizes.

4. Mulberry

Mulberries are unique fruits to grow, with rich, tart, and juicy fruits resembling large, elongated blackberries that are rarely sold in shops. When growing mulberry trees, pruning is a task that must always be done gently.

That forgiving touch is essential as mulberry trees struggle to heal large wounds. It means you want to make as few cuts as possible and never want to prune branches over two inches in diameter, as it can leave the tree prone to fungal or bacterial diseases, as the open wounds take a long time to mend.

When you prune a mulberry tree, remove dead, diseased, damaged, and crossing branches to open up the canopy. And make a few small-scale trims to thin the tree, but never remove more than a quarter of the tree at one time. Over-pruning mulberries does affect fruiting, as well as leaving the tree vulnerable to diseases and pests.

For any pruning, ensure your tools are clean and sharp. A pocket-sized sharpening tool, like this one at Amazon, can be used on straight blade tools, including pruning shears, loppers, and hedging shears.

5. Beech

Beech trees are historic British trees. Many people use beech as a hedging plant, but they make beautiful trees for any landscape, thanks to their stately shape, dense foliage, and dazzling fall color.

They can reach 90-130 feet when left to their own devices. This is where regular pruning is helpful, to maintain the ideal size, keep it manageable for any yard, and ensure the tree remains healthy and beautiful for decades to come.

Beech trees do bleed sap when they are actively growing, so pruning always takes place during dormancy. As with all others on this list, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged wood, along with any growing too close to the ground or going inwards towards the trunk.

If the tree has grown too tall, use crown reduction to bring down the height over the course of a few years. Never top the tree, which is removing the central stem and main canopy branches in one go. Not only does a topped tree look ugly, but it also places huge stress on it, and can affect its future growth.

6. Hazelnuts

Varieties of hazelnuts, which are also known as cobnuts and filberts, should be regularly pruned in dormancy to promote wood to carry the crop of nuts. Some of the most common varieties include the American hazelnut (Corylus americana), the European hazelnut (Corylus avellana), and the large filbert (Corylus maxima).

The trees are ideally grown as multi-stemmed trees, which helps boost pollination and gives the best crop. Such a form should have between five and ten well-spaced, strong stems, with the structure formed over the first five years of the tree’s life. Once the main stems reach 7-8 feet, cut them back to a bud to encourage sideshoots.

Established hazelnuts require removing suckers and opening up the tree to combat potential congestion. Make thinning cuts to remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches, weak shoots, inward-growing stems, or overcrowded areas. This thinning allows more light into the tree.

You can remove a few older, upright stems to reduce congestion. However, when trimming, remember the one-third pruning rule, to only trim out up to a third of the growth at any given time.

Larger, older stems may require the use of a pruning saw, which is used for branches beyond the thickness of pruning shears or loppers. For example, this Fiskars folding hand saw at Walmart has a 10-inch blade with razor-sharp, triple-ground teeth for cutting through thick branches.

7. Davidia

The handkerchief tree (Davidia involucrata) is native to China and a stunning, under-rated tree. It gets its name from the glorious white bracts which surround the flowers in spring, as they flutter in the wind like handkerchiefs hanging from the branches.

A handkerchief tree can take 10 years to start flowering after planting. They may be a luxury, but they are very low-maintenance trees. They do not respond well to heavy pruning, so always treat a handkerchief tree with a gentle touch. The risk of over-pruning is that the tree gets stressed, which likely results in fewer flowers.

Formative pruning is required to train a single-stemmed tree, as there is a risk of the tree splitting if there is more than one leading shoot. Once established, focus primarily on removing the usual suspects of dead, damaged, or diseased branches, along with any that are crossing or rubbing.

If you are looking for more jobs to add to your fall gardening checklist this month, it is worth remembering that November can be an ideal time to take plant cuttings. This rewarding task gives you free shrubs or perennial plants for your garden. If you are interested in finding out more, this guide to plants to propagate in November highlights seven plants you can take cuttings from, along with expert tips for each.

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November marks the end of the fall and is a transitional period into winter. It is a month when many gardens get the first frosts, which kill back summer-flowering plants, and deciduous trees and shrubs enter dormancy. As with any month in the gardening calendar, there is work to do, so let's take a look at some plants to prune in November.

There is no rush to get out with the pruning tools and get all the winter pruning done straight away, though. Many perennials curtailed by frosts offer benefits to wildlife, or can still provide beauty in a winter garden, while lots of shrubs are best pruned in late winter or early spring.

Then there are those plants that actively benefit from being pruned this month – those are the ones I focus on here, and you should add them to a fall gardening checklist. The list includes fruit bushes that reward your TLC with bumper crops, shrubs that require protection through trimming, and perennials that need pruning in November to stay healthy.

Plants to Prune in November

I spent many years working in large historic public and private gardens. November was a stunning month, as the garden displayed real beauty with the changing seasons, but it was always a busy time with lots of clearing, tidying, and trimming on the to-do list. The plants here were on those lists as flower beds, vegetable gardens, kitchen gardens, and glasshouses were given some TLC.

1. Blueberries

Blueberries are a fantastic soft fruit bush to grow, and one I have grown for many years, both in productive gardens I worked in and at home, where I grow blueberries in pots. Not only are the plants an easy superfood to grow, but once established and happy, they can give bumper harvests of fruits rich in vitamins and antioxidants.

Correct pruning is one of the key aspects to get right for a blueberry bush to fruit successfully, along with growing in ericaceous soil and fertilizing annually. Thankfully, knowing how and when to prune blueberries is not daunting.

Blueberries are pruned during dormancy, and the window to trim opens in November and runs until March.

As for how to prune blueberries, they fruit on old wood that peaks at two or three years old, and then their productivity fades. Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches, then focus on trimming out a third of the oldest stems – these will be darker in color than younger, more productive branches.

To keep bushes happy, fertilize blueberries with a feed especially designed for acid-loving plants in the spring, such as this acid mix all-natural fertilizer, available at Amazon.

2. Currants

There are different types of currants to grow, including blackcurrants, whitecurrants, redcurrants, and more. While it may sound complicated, as there are different pruning techniques for certain types, they are all pruned during their dormancy, from November until late winter.

I have pruned many types of currants over the years, and am confident in telling you the pruning methods are simple, so I will outline the basic principles and differences below:

• For all currant bushes, start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with any that cross or rub with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or loppers
• To prune blackcurrants, the focus is on removing a third of the oldest wood each year, which will have the darkest bark, as well as any weak stems.
• To prune redcurrants and whitecurrants, it is similar to pruning gooseberries. Remove any branches older than three years, and then trim all side-shoots from the rest of the stems back to two buds.

3. Roses

Hold fire, this isn't a call to arms to head out and properly prune roses. Instead, it is a note to lightly trim shrub and bush roses to prevent wind rock if you have roses growing in windy or exposed sites.

What is wind rock? It is a term used to describe how strong winds can damage roots and even dislodge plants from the soil by causing them to rock back and forth repeatedly. Pruning to prevent wind rock is advisable for any newly planted roses, tall shrubs, and those likely to be subjected to winter gales.

From someone who worked in one particular exposed northern garden that was hit with strong winds and featured many roses, this form of trimming comes highly recommended.

It can be quick and simple to keep roses safe. Just head out with your pruning tools after flowering and cut all the stems back by between a third and a half. That is all required; then wait to do your routine pruning in late winter or early spring.

4. Peonies

Herbaceous peonies should be cut back after the first fall frosts to keep them healthy and ensure they put on a spectacular display of big, blousy blooms again next year. Depending on your climate, the first frosts will hit the foliage and cause it to die back in October or November, so it is time to cut back peonies.

You cut back peonies in the fall to prevent diseases that commonly occur when growing peonies, which are capable of overwintering on plant debris to strike again come spring. Cutting back and clearing all the old foliage removes any bacteria or infections, so nothing will impact your peonies when they regrow once the temperatures warm.

It is as simple as cutting your herbaceous peonies down to an inch above the ground and clearing away the old material. Disease-free foliage can be used to make compost, but any showing signs of powdery mildew, blight, or mold should be bagged up and disposed of.

This method of trimming is only for herbaceous peonies. If you are growing tree peonies, as they should be pruned in the spring.

5. Grapes

When you grow grapes, heavy winter pruning helps control and rejuvenate the vines, giving you a solid harvest the following year rather than a mass of smaller, unripe fruits. You prune grape vines during their dormancy period, which starts in November, and it needs to be done before the sap starts flowing.

If you grow grape vines indoors, such as in a greenhouse, it is a task best done sooner rather than later once the vines drop the last of their leaves and enter dormancy. I grew grapes in a greenhouse and a large orangery in a historic garden, and November was when we did the pruning each year.

Training grape vines is a very detailed job. However, to prune established grape vines, remove any diseased or damaged stems, and cut the side shoots off the main canes down to two or three strong buds.

It might feel excessive to prune so hard, but grapes are fast-growing climbing vines, and they produce fruit on the new growth prompted by the winter trimming.

6. Blackberry Lily

The blackberry lily (Iris domestica) is also known as the leopard lily or leopard flower, and, despite the name, it is a species of iris rather than a lily. It is a spectacular perennial, with its bowl-shaped orange blooms covered in red spots, but it has a few major issues, making it a perennial you want to cut back in the fall.

The first is to maintain its health. Like many irises, it is susceptible to iris borers, which feed on the rhizomes and overwinter on the plant's foliage. It is also very susceptible to fungal diseases, and those spores will also overwinter on any material left standing over the colder months.

Also, the blackberry lily is an invasive plant in the northern and eastern areas of the US. As a renowned self-seeding flower, cutting any plants you have growing back prevents them from spreading outside the confines of your garden and troubling native species.

7. Hostas

If you haven't already, take some time to cut back your hostas this month. It's a quick and straightforward task that provides two major benefits.

Simply put, hostas don't look attractive once the frost kills their foliage. The once lush green leaves, which hostas are grown for, turn yellow and slimy; they are certainly not visually appealing in flower beds or containers.

I worked in one large garden where masses of hostas were growing, and cutting them back in the fall helped avoid the unsightly view of a blanket of slimy foliage covering the soil.

Another reason to prune them this month is that dying foliage can become a breeding ground for pests and diseases. Slugs and snails are common problems when growing hostas, and they can overwinter their eggs in the foliage left on the ground over winter.

Decaying fungi can also overwinter bacteria and fungal spores, which can infect new growth in spring and spread diseases throughout the garden.

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I also previously highlighted a selection of fruit trees, shrubs, and perennials that may need pruning in November in another piece 12 months ago. All of the inclusions in that first article on plants to prune in November still deserve a place on your to-do list of fall gardening jobs, alongside these popular garden favorites that need pruning before winter arrives. Don't forget to add all these plants to your gardening plans.

The mindset of many gardeners turns to tidying up their space in the fall. While pruning and cutting back can make a difference, there are some plants I advise not trimming this month, as they are best left until spring.

In a nutshell, October is not the month to prune spring-flowering shrubs or cut back some of the best perennials for providing food for birds throughout the winter months. Pruning shrubs that flower on wood developed the previous year means you miss out on spring blooms, and cutting back plants like coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and globe thistle impacts wildlife at times when food is scarce.

Understanding when to prune shrubs prevents you from making any mistakes you'll live to regret. To stop this from happening, we reveal seven plants to never prune in October. It includes hugely popular shrubs you don't want to touch this month, and some perennials to leave standing over winter for the benefit of wildlife.

Plants to never prune in October - you should leave these over winter

Some plants do want pruning this month. So, if you are looking for jobs to add to your fall gardening checklist, see our guide to plants to prune in October that will benefit from some TLC this month. But steer well clear of the following plants:

1. Forsythia

The sight of the bright yellow blooms of forsythia is a sign that spring has arrived. Don't rob yourself of that satisfaction by pruning forsythia in October. As the spring-flowering shrub blooms on old wood that has developed the previous year, pruning in fall means you cut away all next year's buds.

The right time to trim is after the flowers have faded, from April to June, depending on your US hardiness zone. If you have not touched the shrub yet this year, it is too late to prune forsythia, and you should steer well clear until after next year's blooms have ended.

2. Viburnum

Viburnums are a versatile and popular species of shrubs that you should not prune in October. Whether you have a deciduous or evergreen variety, viburnums are another shrub that produces flowers on wood that grew and developed the previous year.

You usually don't need to do lots of pruning with these low-maintenance shrubs. When the time comes and they need trimming and tidying, it is a task to do after they have flowered. Prune viburnums in October, and you won't get any display to enjoy next year.

So, what can you do with viburnums in the fall?

Keep them well-watered, especially in drier years, and give plants a good mulch to protect the roots in winter. The latter job is particularly beneficial in colder climates, and an organic mulch, such as this pine bark mulch from Walmart, is a good option.

3. Mock orange

Mock orange, also known as philadelphus, is adored for its fragrant white flowers in early summer. There are many mock orange varieties to choose from, ranging from tall specimens that can stand proud towards the back of flower beds to dwarf varieties for smaller spaces. Wherever you plant a mock orange, you can often smell the glorious shrub before you see it.

If you grow a mock orange, understanding when to prune it is vital to ensure you get those intoxicating flowers to enjoy. The shrub flowers on wood produced the previous year, and needs trimming after flowering. Prune a mock orange in October and you will be removing the wood to carry next year's flowers.

4. Black-eyed Susan

Many gardeners rush to cut perennials back in the fall. Holding fire can offer multiple benefits, so don't head out too fast with your pruning tools to prune everything back.

A case in point is black-eyed Susans. Also known as rudbeckias, they brighten up any flower bed in the summer, but there are also great reasons to delay pruning them until the spring.

The seed heads provide vital food for birds, including American goldfinches, sparrows, and cardinals, during the colder months. If you want to help wildlife during winter, it might be time to reconsider when to cut back black-eyed Susans.

On top of that, the old stems provide structure through winter and look particularly fetching tinged with a frost. If you want to grow more black-eyed Susans, leaving the seed heads over winter will mean the plant self-seeds around the garden. This may be appealing to some gardeners, but not all.

5. Coneflower

Just as with black-eyed Susans, don't rush too quickly to cut back coneflowers once the first frosts arrive. The dried seed heads of most coneflower varieties provide valuable food for birds, and they do this at a time when food is scarce.

But what if you are growing a hybrid sterile variety of coneflowers that don't produce seeds? Well, it is still worth saving the cutting back to spring, because the stems can protect the perennial's crown from the worst of the winter weather.

6. Ornamental grasses

Low maintenance and high impact are two great ways to describe ornamental grasses. They can give height, texture, and movement to borders, or you can landscape with ornamental grasses for privacy.

When you grow ornamental grasses, they don't need pruning in the fall. Both evergreen and deciduous types of grasses can provide structure and beauty in a winter garden, especially when they are touched by frost. The grasses can also provide shelter for wildlife and be a food source for birds when left untouched for winter.

Hold off on cutting back ornamental grasses until early next year. Late winter or early spring is the best time to cut the old growth of deciduous grasses back to the base and remove dead leaves from evergreen grasses.

7. Loropetalum

Loropetalum is a genus of four shrub species in the witch-hazel (Hamamelidaceae) family. It has the same slender strap-shaped petals as a witch-hazel.

These bright blooms appear in late winter and early spring, but what makes loropetalum more unique is that it is one of the best shrubs with dark foliage. This evergreen foliage comes in shades of pink, red, or purple. The bold shades make it a dramatic shrub for borders, or you can grow loropetalum as an alternative hedging plant.

As loropetalum blooms on old wood, pruning in the fall robs you of the flowers, which come in shades of red, pink, white, or yellow, and with a light fragrance. Loropetalum often needs little pruning. When it needs tidying, the correct time to prune the shrub is after flowering in spring or early summer.

Now you know plants to never prune in October, that may free up some time in your gardening diary for the month. So why not do some planting this month? Our guides to vegetables to plant in October and flowers to sow in October are full of great ideas to inspire you to get out planting over the coming weeks.

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October is not the best time to prune lots of trees, but there is one job you can quickly do this month that will benefit many popular backyard trees. That is to remove suckers before they get too large.

Suckers are vigorous, upright stems often seen growing around the base of a tree. They can appear for various reasons. Some are the result of grafts on ornamental or fruit trees, while others may emerge due to damage, and some trees simply sucker prolifically. No matter why they appear, suckers are troublesome and are best removed quickly. They drain nutrients, and removing them in the fall helps the tree conserve energy to get them through the winter.

Part of knowing when to prune trees is understanding the best time of year for large-scale trimming and shaping. But there are smaller jobs you can do outside of that window, including removing dead and damaged branches and suckers. If you haven't removed them so far this year, then fall is a great time to pop outside and quickly trim off these unwanted shoots. Trust me, your trees will thank you for doing it.

Trees to prune in October - these 7 are known to sucker prolifically

Here, we highlight seven trees renowned for being prone to suckering, including some that spread aggressively and need controlling. But all of them will benefit from having these suckers removed before they get too large. This guide also reveals the best pruning windows for each, along with when you should never prune these trees.

1. Lilac

First on the list of trees to prune in October is lilac. It makes a stunning addition to any garden, with showy, fragrant blooms in shades of purple, pink, or white in spring and early summer.

There are many different varieties of lilacs to grow as part of your backyard ideas, but some varieties sucker more than others. In particular, common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) and early bloomers are notorious for suckering.

The suckers take energy away from the tree, and will become harder to remove when they get woody and harden over the winter.

You prune lilacs after flowering, as trimming later in the year risks cutting off next year's flower buds. But you can cut off suckers this month – if you see them in the fall, remove them straight away. It is not a complete waste, though, as you can replant lilac suckers to grow new plants.

If you want to prevent suckers, you can use a 'sucker-stopper' product that inhibits sprouting. Like this Sucker Punch liquid, available at Amazon, which you apply to plants after pruning the area.

2. Dogwood

Cornus, or dogwood, is a genus of up to 60 species of trees and shrubs. There are types for flowers, foliage, and fruits, making it possible for a dogwood to suit any garden.

But dogwoods are prone to suckering. However, this is merely a small price to pay for growing these spectacular flowering trees.

Whether you have native dogwood trees like Cornus florida, Cornus alternifolia, or Cornus nuttallii, or the popular types like Cornus jousa, Cornus sanguinea or Cornus alba, it pays to remember to remove suckers when they are small.

October is not a good month to prune dogwood trees for shape. The best time is late winter, during dormancy, as the trees bleed sap when pruned during the growing season. However, you should remove suckers if you haven't already this year.

If these suckers are spouting from deep, such as through grass or in a flower bed, you do need to remove them as far back as possible. It is beneficial to scrape away the soil to reach the base of the sucker, where a sharp, durable tool like this small-handed spade at Walmart will come in useful.

3. Crabapple

You can understand why so many people grow crabapple trees. The spring blossom, attractive foliage, and those beautiful small fruits come fall. You can plant crabapples for different color combos of flowers and fruits, and there are even dwarf varieties – meaning you can grow fruit trees in pots in smaller spaces.

Most crabapple trees that gardeners grow at home are grafted. It means the rootstock differs from the top, and it is often chosen to control the vigor or improve the hardiness of the tree. However, you will get suckers coming from the rootstock. These should be removed, as they take energy away from the rest of the tree and, if left, grow into a different type of tree.

Save major crabapple pruning until late winter or early spring. This month, take a moment to look for any dead branches, any damaged by fall storms, and suckers shooting up around the base of the tree.

Remove any of these with a sharp pruning tool this month to keep the plant healthy. Keeping your pruning tools clean and sharp is vital to preserving long-term plant health. It can be as simple as having a pocket-sized tool sharpener like this one at Amazon so you can sharpen your tools while out in the garden.

4. Plum

Plums can be one of the easiest fruit trees to grow, providing you with a delicious harvest of sweet fruits year after year. One thing that helps make them so simple is that they are grafted, which can be for various reasons. It may be for fruit quality, resistance to diseases, controlling their size, or to make a tree more suited to specific locations.

You may be unaware that the type of plum tree you are growing differs from the rootstock it is grafted to. But you should be, as the tree will sucker from below the graft union, and start developing stems that are different to the plum tree you planted.

It is always an issue that suckers are stronger and more vigorous, which is why you want to remove them as soon as possible. It can be quick and simple. But, left for too long, they can quickly get too large to remove with pruning shears and have sucked a lot of energy away from the main tree. And, if left for several seasons, it may be difficult to distinguish between the sucker and the original stem.

Knowing when to prune plum trees is important. They don't want to be pruned in late winter or early spring like other fruit trees; plums are trimmed in spring or early summer. Pruning plums at the same time as you do apples or pears leaves them susceptible to silver leaf or bacterial canker.

5. American hazelnut

Corylus americana, the American hazelnut or American hazel, is a small deciduous, often multi-stemmed, tree that reaches up to 16 feet.

The tree can make an excellent addition to a wildlife garden. Its three-inch-long catkins are food for grouse and turkeys in spring, and its edible nuts are food for squirrels, deer, and woodpeckers.

The American hazelnut regularly sends suckers up from underground rhizomes. These are sent from as far as four inches under the surface, meaning you want to dig down as far as possible to remove these.

It is beneficial to prune these suckers away in the fall before they get a winter under their belts to harden off. Take a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears and cut the sucker as close to the base as possible.

If the sucker is more than half an inch wide, use a pair of loppers like these Fiskars steel blade garden bypass loppers at Amazon that can cut through stems up to 1.5 inches.

6. American elder

Sambucus canadensis, known as the American elder or American elderberry, is a native tree to eastern and central parts of North America. As an ornamental tree, it offers beauty with creamy spring flowers and dark, glossy fruits in the fall. These edible fruits can be used to make pies, jellies, preserves, or tea.

American elderberry is another fruiting shrub or small tree known for suckering. It can aggressively spread, but is not considered invasive. If you don't want the plant to spread in your garden, remove these suckers regularly, ideally do the job annually and add it to your spring or fall gardening checklist.

7. Staghorn sumac

The staghorn sumac, Rhus typhina, is a troublesome tree. This deciduous tree is native to North America and has attractive foliage that turns stunning shades of red, orange and yellow in the fall.

Unfortunately, it is considered an invasive tree in many states due to its aggressive root system. It has a vigorous suckering habit that needs managing if you have one in your yard. Pruning and removing suckers are a prerequisite. It requires digging around the sucker to get its base and pulling it out with as many roots as possible.

To prevent the tree from spreading, you can dig a trench and install a protective barrier around your staghorn sumac, such as this bamboo shield barrier available from Amazon.

There may not be lots of trees to prune in October, but that doesn't mean there aren't lots of other highly effective gardening jobs to do this month. Aside from trees, this guide to plants to prune in October features hedges, shrubs, and perennials that will benefit from some TLC this month. You can also discover some perennials to divide in October if you want lots of new plants to add to your garden.

As the days grow shorter and the crisp fall air returns, many gardeners are wondering what to do with their hydrangeas. Unlike some varieties, Endless Summer hydrangeas require a very specific approach to pruning, especially at this time of year. Because they bloom on both old wood (last year's growth) and new wood (this season's growth), an ill-timed cut can cost you next year's blooms.

When it comes to exploring when to prune hydrangeas, Endless Summer varieties require minimal pruning, so it is vital to understand when the pruning time is right to avoid hindering the plant’s health or impacting any future display of stunning blooms.

Discover the right time, plus tips on how to prune these hydrangeas, to have happy plants year after year.

Why you should not prune now

Pruning in the fall and winter can be tempting, especially as the last flowers fade, but it's a common mistake that can have a big impact. Hydrangeas set their buds for the following year in late summer and early fall. If you prune now, you risk cutting off the very buds that will produce next spring's flowers.

Lorraine Ballato, author of ‘Success with Hydrangeas’ and the resident hydrangea expert at New York Botanical Garden, explains how the flowering habits of Endless Summer hydrangeas affect when and how they need to be pruned. 'Endless Summer is a big leaf hydrangea (macrophylla) and it flowers on both old and new wood. Therein lies the basis of confusion. You can cut it back multiple times in the growing season but not in the fall, winter or early spring.’

Endless Summer hydrangeas should not be pruned after the start of September as cutting in fall will stimulate the hydrangea to generate new growth. Lorraine adds, ‘[that is] not what you want at this time of year when it should be focused on making buds for next year and then going dormant. You can also inadvertently remove bud-bearing stems when you cut in the fall (as well as winter and early spring).’

What to do throughout the year instead

Pruning: prune your Endless Summer hydrangeas in late spring once the hydrangea is actively growing, just as the buds are starting to break. At this stage prune out any damaged or dead stems, which will be brown and brittle, and leave any new green growth or buds

Deadhead wisely: you can gently remove any spent Endless Summer blooms by exploring our guide on when and how to deadhead hydrangeas. Deadheading through the summer to promote the development of new blooms will tidy up the plant and encourage it to continue producing flowers until the first hard frost.

Keep watering: hydrangeas need consistent moisture. Continue to water them deeply until the ground freezes. This is especially important for container-grown plants, which are more susceptible to drying out. Proper hydration now will help your plant withstand the cold winter ahead.

Protect with mulching: a layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, can help insulate the roots and conserve moisture. Apply a two-inch layer around the base of the plant, but make sure it doesn't touch the main stem, as this can lead to rot.

Leave winter interest: the dried blooms left on the plant will provide visual interest throughout the winter, especially when dusted with a layer of snow. They also offer a bit of protection for the plant's dormant buds. Wait until early spring to perform any major pruning, and only after you see new green growth. At that point, you can remove any dead or damaged branches.

As Endless Summer hydrangeas set their buds in the fall, pruning after the end of August can leave you without any early-season blooms to enjoy next spring. So, when you look at your Endless Summer type and wonder, should I cut back the hydrangea in the fall? The answer is a definitive no – and remember to avoid winter and early spring too.

Pruning is essential for keeping trees healthy, safe, and beautifully shaped. While it may not need to be a regular chore, doing it at the right time is crucial – pruning at the wrong moment can drain a tree’s energy, jeopardize its health, and make it vulnerable to disease. Most deciduous trees fare best when pruned during their dormant season, from late fall to late winter, but even then, there are specific periods that are particularly risky.

When to never prune trees

Knowing when to prune trees is essential for healthy, safe, and well-shaped trees, but timing is everything. To help you avoid tree pruning mistakes, I’ve gathered expert tips on when to prune and when to avoid it, including the riskiest periods for pruning tree branches.

Knowing the right times to use your garden tools ensures your trees stay healthy and thrive. These are general guidelines, as timing can vary by species, but following them gives your backyard trees the best chance to flourish.

1. The riskiest period – active disease season (mid-spring to early summer)

Pruning deciduous trees, especially oaks and elms, from the point they break dormancy through early summer is a high-stakes gamble. The combination of active growth and warm weather dramatically increases the risk of fungal diseases and insect transmission.

Disease attraction: Basil Camu, an ISA-certified arborist and founder of Leaf & Limb, warns that fungal diseases are rife in the spring. More critically, the fresh cuts attract sap-feeding beetles, which are vectors for lethal diseases like Oak Wilt and Dutch Elm Disease.

Expert insight: Basil Camu stresses that ‘pruning at this time can cause stress and reduce the tree's ability to heal.’ He notes that ‘Generally, it’s best to avoid pruning during late March through early May, depending on the region and the specific tree species. This is when many trees experience significant sap flow and growth.’

2. Periods of extreme environmental stress

Pruning should never be done when your trees are already stressed by the environment, whether from drought, scorching heat, or intense cold.

Heat and drought: Pruning during excessive heat places a severe burden on the plant’s ability to recover. Ken Wickham, an ISA-certified arborist with Joshua Tree Experts, warns that pruning in excessive heat can place additional stress on ‘an already stressed tree’ due to the environmental conditions. He adds: ‘This stress can also open the tree to insect infestation or disease issues.’

Extreme cold: Though winter is the dormant season, pruning during periods of deep, hard frost risks the cut wounds freezing, which can cause cracking and dieback. Lisa Tadewaldt, founder at Urban Forest Pro, cautions that ‘If you prune too far into winter or in the heat of summer, the tree can react negatively and die back or die completely, but if you live in a milder climate, this is usually not an issue except in the case of unexpected extreme weather.’

3. During the peak growth flush (late spring)

When a tree bursts into life in the spring, sap is rising rapidly, and the tree is expending huge amounts of stored energy to grow new leaves and shoots. Pruning now interrupts this natural process.

Making large cuts during this time forces the tree to use critical energy reserves to heal the fresh wounds and bleeds a significant amount of sap – a phenomenon particularly noticeable in trees like maples, birches, and walnuts. Pruning these 'bleeder' trees in late winter or early spring is a mistake, which is why they are exceptions that should be pruned in mid-to-late summer instead.

4. Late summer to early fall

The window between late summer and the first fall frost is often cited as the 'worst time' to prune most deciduous trees. This timing creates two distinct hazards:

Energy depletion: International consulting arborist Scott Seargeant warns that pruning during this time reduces a tree’s ability to make and store food. He says: ‘During this time, trees are storing energy they will need to produce new growth in the spring. The leaves make the food for the tree. So pruning reduces a tree’s ability to make and store food.’

Winter damage: Pruning now can also trick the tree into putting out a last burst of vulnerable new growth. This fresh, soft growth will not have time to harden off before the winter frosts, leading to branch dieback and further stressing the tree. Scott Seargeant confirms that ‘pruning in the fall leaves open wounds that a tree will need to spend additional energy reserves to compartmentalize. Open wounds are entry points for insects and diseases.’

5. A crucial exception – flowering trees

For many ornamental and fruit trees, the 'dormant season' rule must be ignored, as pruning at the wrong time will remove next year’s flowers.

Spring bloomers: Trees that flower on old wood (growth from the previous year), such as ornamental cherries, lilacs, magnolias, and dogwoods, should be pruned immediately after they finish flowering in the spring. If you prune them in the late summer or fall, you will be cutting off all the buds for the following year.

The advice outlined above is predominantly for major structural pruning and shaping. However, emergency pruning is an exception to every rule. When you spot broken, damaged, or diseased branches, they are best removed immediately, regardless of the time of year, to ensure the safety and long-term health of the tree.

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Pruning is all about timing. Believe me, I’ve learned this the hard way. Cut at the wrong moment, and you can ruin next year’s display, or worse, lose the plant altogether. Years ago, in a garden I was working in, I trimmed a lavender hedge a little too late in September. It looked perfectly neat, but the weather turned cold earlier than expected, and the tender new growth I’d triggered didn’t have time to harden off. A mistake I haven’t made since.

September is a tempting time to tidy – the summer’s slipping away, and the urge to neaten things up takes hold. But many plants, especially those that bloom on old wood like lilacs and forsythia, are best left alone. Prune them now, and you’ll be snipping off spring before it’s even had a chance.

So, while you may already know which plants to prune in September, here are seven plants I never cut back this month, and why, after a decade of gardening, I avoid any temptation to trim these species.

7 plants to never prune in September

I’ve worked with enough gardeners (and made enough errors myself) to know that once the secateurs are out, it’s easy to go pruning mad. But not every plant wants a haircut right now.

Before you start, then, take a pause and brush up on common pruning mistakes, so you don’t accidentally set your garden back a whole season. Here are seven plants to never prune in September.

1. Oakleaf hydrangea

I have grown oakleaf hydrangeas, or Hydrangea quercifolia, in several gardens where I have worked, and I remain a little obsessed. With oak-shaped leaves complemented by the white flowers in springtime, this shrub is quite a sight to behold.

But don’t be tempted to trim now. Oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood, which means this year’s stems are already forming next year’s show. Snip those off in September and, well, you’ll be met with a whole lot of nothing next spring.

Instead, in terms of when to prune an oakleaf hydrangea, I would suggest waiting until after it flowers, late spring or early summer, and then trim lightly.

If you must tidy, simply deadhead by snipping only the brown flowers, using something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available to order via Amazon.

2. Lilacs

Lilacs are another shrub to never hard prune in September or during fall. Like many spring bloomers, they form next year’s flower buds in the summer months, well before the leaves drop.

If your lilac looks messy, you can remove the odd bit of dead wood or wayward stem. For thicker branches, try this cordless electric hedge trimmer by Ryobi, available at Home Depot now, which is highly rated by shoppers.

But in terms of when to prune lilacs properly, save this job for right after flowering in spring. That’s your window. Anything later and you'll be cutting flowering stems for next year.

If you fancy treating yourself to a new lilac, fall is a good time to get planting. This compact 'Bloomerang' variety, with live plants available from Proven Winners via Amazon, would be a good choice for smaller plots or patio plants.

3. Veronicastrum

I love darkened seed heads in the fall garden, and Veronicastrum virginicum, or Culver's root, might be the best.

This native plant (hardy down to zone 3) produces impactful blackened seed heads, as can be seen in the image above, that can stand for much of fall and winter, until they are flattened by snow.

So, my advice? Don’t cut these plants now. The faded flowers feed wildlife, birds pick away at the seeds, and pollinators still hover if the weather’s mild.

The same goes for coneflowers and black eyed Susan plants, let the cones and domes blacken, dry and stand tall to provide winter interest, habitat and food.

I would consider these as plants to prune in spring, so save the haircut for February or March, once new shoots begin to emerge from the base. Until then, enjoy the decay.

If you like the look of this perennial but don't have it in your yard, order Veronicastrum virginicum seeds from Amazon now, and scatter the seeds outside during September and October. With any luck, these seeds will germinate come spring and grow into healthy plants.

4. Switchgrass

I would also consider most ornamental grasses as plants to never prune in September. This would include one of the best native grasses, Panicum virgatum, otherwise known as switchgrass.

Live switchgrass starter plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

While they lose their lushness during September and October, and begin to bronze and brown, this is to be celebrated. To me, grasses are some of the most underrated elements in the fall and winter garden.

Cutting it back in September robs you of all that fall color and impact. Plus, these grasses act as habitat. Birds nestle in and insects overwinter in dense thickets. So, put the loppers back in the shed, and instead, cut back ornamental grasses in February.

5. Forsythia

Forsythias only bloom on old wood, so the stems that grew this year are the ones that’ll produce zingy yellow flowers next spring.

So, if you’re tempted to tame your forsythia now, resist the urge. In terms of when is it too late to prune forsythia, September is definitely too late for my liking.

You want to chop just after the blooms drop in late spring or early summer. That gives the shrub time to regrow fresh flowering wood through the rest of the year.

If you want to, you can remove any dead or diseased stems now, using something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through larger, rotten stems.

6. Penstemon

I’ve grown all sorts of penstemon over the years, from the deep purple ‘Raven’ to the fine-foliaged Penstemon pinifolius, which has the most striking fiery orange flowers.

These perennials always deliver. But a word of caution: don’t cut them back in summer or fall. I leave the flower stalks standing, and not just for the seed. Those hollow stems offer shelter for overwintering insects and provide food during the hummingbird migration – remember that even brown flowers can still contain nectar.

So, while you might be tempted to deadhead penstemon in September, I would suggest leaving them to stand. Instead, trim them down to the base in early spring, just when you can see where the new growth is pushing through.

7. Crepe myrtle

Crape myrtles are also plants to never prune in September. This is because a trim now will encourage soft new growth to shoot, which is the last thing you want going into fall and winter. An early frost in New York or Chicago, for example, would easily kill this growth.

So, in terms of when to prune crepe myrtle, be patient; you want to wait until late winter or very early spring when the shrub is dormant, just before any lush new leaves begin to unfurl. That way, you’re not encouraging risky new shoots.

When it comes to pruning, if there are any out-of-reach crepe myrtle stems, use something like these highly rated Fiskars extendable pruners, available now via Amazon.

One plant that you can trim in early September is lavender. Nobody wants to see woody lavender plants in their yard, so a good late summer chop is needed. I aim to trim in August or early September, giving enough time for any new growth to harden before frost. And remember, don't cut into old wood, only into the green growth.

For more inspiration and jobs to keep you busy this month, see our guide on perennials to plant in September for spring blooms.

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As summer turns to fall, the list of jobs to do in the garden often doesn’t feel like it gets any smaller. Understandably, some things do fall to the wayside, including pruning, but September can provide a final opportunity for pruning some plants. So, if you are like me and don’t like skipping the trimming altogether, the good news is that there is still time to get it done.

This pruning can keep plants healthy, looking neat and controlled, combat potential pest and disease problems, and help guarantee better yields. To me, that is the motivation to head out with the pruning tools, and, as the old saying goes, better late than never.

With that in mind, I highlight seven plants to prune in September that might really need some TLC in the coming days or weeks. If you haven’t done so already, head out and give them attention, and add these trimming tasks to your late summer gardening checklist.

Plants to prune in September: Part 2

This time last year, I highlighted some popular plants to prune in September, like summer raspberries, climbers such as jasmine, passionflower, and honeysuckles, as well as some hedging plants. But there is more worth knowing about, so who fancies a sequel? Let's start looking at seven more plants to prune in September.

1. Yew

Yew is very popular as both a hedging plant and a plant for topiary, but it does need regular attention to keep it looking at its best. That includes two trims a year, one in late spring or early summer and another in late summer or early fall.

September is an ideal time to trim yew as the heat of summer is past, and the shrub has a chance to recover before the temperatures really drop for winter. Pruning this month is more of a gentle trim rather than a heavy one – leave any renovation pruning for spring.

2. Iris

Exactly when you cut back irises may depend on your climate, but they need trimming after they have finished flowering and before the foliage completely flops. Once all the blooms have faded in late summer or early fall, remove the stems as close to the rhizome as possible.

This is important when growing irises as it prevents disease from moisture on the foliage, and reduces the risk of the iris borer pest that overwinters in old foliage and can cause the rhizome to rot.

3. Wisteria

This is a final reminder to prune wisteria.

The climber requires pruning twice a year, with the summer trim typically occurring in August. However, if you grow wisteria and have not got around to this, September is the final chance to do it, ideally before the middle of the month.

It is recommended not to forget about pruning wisteria twice a year, as the vines grow quickly and can get unruly if left unchecked.

And the summer prune is so simple, there is no excuse not to get it done. Simply identify all of this year’s growth, and cut the whippy shoots back to five or six buds.

4. Lavender

Again, this is a final reminder to prune lavender before the window closes for the year, which is essential if you want to avoid woody or leggy plants.

Ideally, it is done in August, but September is also OK, but the earlier you get to this task this month, the better.

You can cut back hard to shape the lavender shrub, but don’t trim into the old wood. That is a lavender growing mistake because the plant won’t resprout from old wood – stay safe and trim up to 2-3 inches above the woody base.

5. Tomatoes

This one isn’t necessarily essential, but it comes highly recommended when growing tomatoes. It may seem counterintuitive to prune tomato plants and stop them from growing, but there is method to the madness.

Topping tomato plants at the back end of the season helps your plants ripen existing fruits rather than put energy into producing new ones.

Without intervention, the rampant plants will continue to grow stems, leaves, and fruits. However, you’ll be left with lots of green tomatoes come the end of the season. You can ripen green tomatoes in a bag with a banana at home, but that should be a last resort. Ideally, the tomatoes naturally ripen on the plant.

Simply cut out the growing tip of the plant once it has developed enough trusses; usually, four or five trusses are sufficient. Doing this and thinning out foliage diverts the energy into ripening all the fruits it is currently growing. You’ll be harvesting tomatoes ripened to perfection in no time.

6. Blackberries

When you grow blackberries, they are productive, but vigorous plants. They need space and require pruning to keep them tidy and not too overzealous with their fast-growing arching stems.

You prune blackberries in the same way as summer-fruiting raspberries, and September is the perfect window to do this. The canes produce fruit on two-year-old canes, so trimming involves removing this year’s fruiting stems and leaving those that grew this year, which are often trained onto wires to keep the plant orderly.

While you can get thornless varieties of blackberries, most of the time you want a good pair of thornproof gardening gloves (like these long thornproof gloves at Amazon) to protect you from the plant’s sharp thorns.

7. Boxwood

Boxwood, whether grown as hedging or clipped into topiary, can be given a tidy-up in September. This late gentle trim maintains the shape and keeps the plant looking neat all winter long.

This month offers a good window to trim boxwood bushes. Doing so earlier than late summer/early fall risks the boxwood turning yellow from leaf scorch, and post-September risks the box being damaged by frosts.

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September also presents a great opportunity to propagate new plants for free by taking cuttings.

Our guide to plants to propagate in September reveals shrubs, perennials, and tender plants that are ideal for taking cuttings this month, along with some expert tips to help you expand your collection with confidence.

For many of us gardeners, mid-August is when our fall thinking caps come on and we start to make plans for putting the garden to bed and adding colder season interest to the yard. But, there is one simple thing you can do to enjoy your summer planting for a little while longer: deadheading.

It's not too late to encourage an extended display by deadheading fading flowers to encourage plants to rebloom before the coldest temperatures kick in. Rather than leaving those wilting plants to wait out the rest of the summer season, make the most of the warm temperatures we're still experiencing by helping your plants to redirect their energy into reblooming.

Of course, it can be tricky to know what to deadhead when, as not all plants will reliably provide a second flush of flowers. To help you out, I've compiled a list of seven plants to deadhead in August, with advice from a gardening expert on how to do it, so you can tick this job off your summer gardening checklist.

Why deadhead plants in August?

Not all plants should be deadheaded in August. In fact, doing so is a deadheading mistake that can leave you without any plants for seedheads for winter interest and it can take away fading flowers wildlife are still using.

But, there are other plants that will benefit from being deadheaded because they still have plenty of energy they can use to put out a second round of flowers in the same season.

Here, experts shed light on seven plants to deadhead in August to help your summer display last a while longer, ahead of fall.

1. Pelargonium

Sometimes better known as bedding geraniums, pelargoniums are fantastic tender perennials that can bloom from spring through to fall. They come in a wide range of bright colors and variegations, and regularly removing their faded blooms will encourage a more abundant display.

'As soon as flower heads begin to fade or petals drop, follow the stem down to the main stem and snip off the entire flower stalk, not just the spent flower,' advises gardening expert Michael Clarke.

'Use scissors or pinch with your fingers to cleanly remove the old flower. This will encourage continuous blooming and prevent seed development,' he continues.

As Michael notes, these are quite easy blooms to pinch off with your fingers, but you can also use essential pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to make a clean cut.

2. Veronica

Veronica is a stunning plant that certainly makes an impact in a purple plant scheme with its vibrant flower spikes. It typically starts blooming in June and by deadheading in August, you can enjoy flowers into fall.

It'll be obvious that it's time to deadhead veronica because the usually bright flowers will have dulled in color and may have browning or greening tips. Remove spent flower stalks just above a healthy set of leaves to ensure the plant puts on new growth.

Not deadheading plants above leaf nodes or new buds is a pruning mistake that can hinder your plant's ability to put on a second display of blooms.

3. Nepeta

Another lavender alternative, nepeta (or catmint) is often loved for its profuse flowering. But, it can start to look a little worse for wear by the time August comes around. The good news is it makes the list of plants to deadhead in August, tidying it up and encouraging new growth.

'After the first big bloom flush fades in early to mid-summer, use a pair of garden hedge shears (from Amazon) to shear the whole plant back by a third,' Michael recommends. 'Focus on removing spent blooms and some foliage to promote a second flush of flowers and keep the plant compact and tidy,' he says.

Read our guide on how and when to prune catmint for more information on different techniques to use.

4. Zinnia

Plants to deadhead in August don't just involve must-have perennials, you can get also more out of your annuals by giving them a bit of attention this month.

Zinnias are cut-and-come-again flowers, so it makes sense removing the flower stalks will encourage a returning display while the summer temperatures stick around.

I have zinnias growing in my cut flower garden and have been enjoying harvesting them to display in vases in my home. But, I have also allowed many of them to stay on display in my yard, offering a bright and cheery view.

When the blooms begin to fade and shrivel, I deadhead my zinnias. In just a matter of days, new flower buds appear. To do this correctly, cut the zinnia flower stem down to just above a set of leaves.

I find the stems of zinnias too tough for snips or scissors, and rather use pruning shears (from Amazon) to make clean cuts.

5. Lantana

This is another plant typically grown as one of the best fast-growing annuals, but it is actually a tender perennial. Lantana is a charming plant with clusters of multi-colored blooms. It belongs to the verbena varieties family and is popular with pollinators, flowering from early summer up until the first frost.

Deadheading is a key aspect of growing lantana if you want to promote a longer blooming period. Look out for when flowers start to form seedpods and then snip down to a leaf node.

When deadheading lantana, you may also wish to take lantana cuttings to propagate and get even more of these beautiful plants for free. You should also fertilize lantana throughout summer to aid flower growth (using this flower fertilizer from Amazon).

6. Coneflower

Coneflower is one of the easiest plants to deadhead in August to spot. It dramatically darkens in color, wilts, and its petals may even fall off.

'Cut the flower stalk down to a set of leaves or a side bud. Deadheading coneflowers will extend the bloom period and encourage branching with more flowers,' says Michael.

But, you may also want to consider leaving some of your fading coneflowers for your winter garden, as their seedheads make the list of the best architectural plants.

'Seedheads will also feed birds in winter and help other wildlife into fall,' Michael adds.

7. Lavender

It can be easy to mistake your lavender being done for the year when those iconic purple flowers become dull in mid-summer. But, getting out your pruners and deadheading lavender in August can reward you with a late summer, fragrant display that pollinators will thank you for.

'Once most flowers are faded or dried in mid to late summer, snip the stems down to just above the foliage mound,' Michael advises.

You want to avoid cutting into woody stems as this isn't likely to regrow. Although, there are a few things you can do to revive woody lavender plants. Reading up on our guide to lavender growing mistakes can also help you prevent your plant becoming so woody.

FAQs

Should I deadhead any shrubs in August?

Yes, there are many benefits to deadheading some flowering shrubs in August. Examples include butterfly bush, roses, and caryopteris, which can all typically provide a second flush of blooms if deadheaded during this month. Not all shrubs will benefit from deadheading in August, however, so it's best to do some research around the specific flowering shrub you have in your yard.

Once your second flush of blooms start to fade in fall, consider collecting seeds to replant next year. You can also using dried seedheads for decorating with dried flowers and indoor arrangements.

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For taller perennial plants that can always be relied on to inject a punch of color in summer borders and pots, red hot pokers, or Kniphofia spp., are a strong option. Native to sub-Saharan Africa, these fiery perennials will always turn heads with pops of orange, red, peach and white. One of my favorites is 'Tawny King', which is a salmon-peach pastel variety that, to me, is a little less busy than the two-tone options.

Red hot pokers are incredibly tough once they’ve settled in to your yard, thriving in poor soil and asking for very little. But one task that will extend the floral show in summer is deadheading. A simple snip every few days can encourage your plants to produce more flowers for as long as possible.

So, if you already know how to grow red hot pokers but want a little advice on deadheading, you've come to the right place. Here, I explain when and how to deadhead red hot pokers to keep your perennials looking spectacular for as long as possible this year.

Deadheading red hot pokers – my top tips

Whatever varieties of red hot poker you enjoy, deadheading is a great way to encourage your plants to produce as many flowering stems as possible. So, make sure to add this to your summer gardening checklist this year.

If you fancy adding an unusual dwarf variety to your containers or borders, try this crimson 'Red Hot Popsicle' red hot pokers, with live plants available now via Nature Hills.

How to deadhead red hot pokers

In most regions, red hot pokers tend to flower sometime in summer, usually around June, July and August, depending on the variety, local climate and your US hardiness zone.

While individual blooms will last about three weeks (around the 18 days mark), with consistent and regular deadheading, these tall perennial flowers will keep emerging right through until fall, particularly during mild years. While their numbers will dwindle, you can still eek out an extra one or two stems even in late September.

Red hot pokers flower from the bottom up, so those petals that open first (lower down the stem) will have fallen by the time the petals at the top of the flower have seen the light of day.

And, where the flowers have turned brown and the petals have fallen, small green seedpods will begin to swell.

Of course, you can leave these fading flowers and seed pods to stand, but if you want to encourage more flowers, it is a good idea to trim these stems, cutting right down to the base of the plant.

Use something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available from Amazon, which will easily slice through red hot poker stems.

While you can wait until all petals have dropped, I would probably suggest pruning red hot pokers a little sooner than this, to redirect energy into flower production as opposed to seed production as soon as possible.

To note, many red hot poker cultivars are actually sterile and won't actually produce seeds. But, even for sterile plants, deadheading will encourage more flower stems to form, so really, it is worth doing for all varieties.

FAQs

Can you compost trimmed red hot poker stems?

Yes, all red hot poker flowers, stems and leaves can be added to your compost heap. This green waste will quickly break down, just be sure to snip any chunky or longer stems up into smaller pieces (no more than a few inches), which will help with the composting rate.

Red hot pokers are remarkably drought-tolerant, surviving in arid-like conditions without rainfall in their native habitat. However, deep watering once a week can help with flower production, particularly if the summer is incredibly hot.

For more flower inspiration, see our guide on deadheading agapanthus, to get the most out of your yard this summer.

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Problematic neighboring trees can prove to be an awkward garden dilemma. Whether they are casting shade, overhanging your property, or perhaps the thick, buttress roots are snaking under the fence and disrupting your patio, it can be tricky to resolve.

The first step is to have a friendly conversation. After all, your neighbor might not realise how the roots are impacting your side of the boundary line. And while you are generally free to act as you wish if a plant is growing within your yard, there are some legal implications to be aware of. For example, if the removal of a root destabilizes the tree and it falls, you, as the root cutter, would be liable for damage and replacement.

So, if you are asking: can I prune my neighbor's tree, take a moment to assess what you can and cannot do with our expert guide, including tips from a professional gardener in Wisconsin and an attorney from California.

Can I cut the roots of my neighbor's tree?

'From a legal perspective, you are allowed to get rid of or deal with whatever parts of your neighbor’s trees or plants end up on your side of the property line,' says Ben Michael, Attorney, Michael & Associates.

'Whether that's cutting a neighbor's hedge, pruning your neighbor's ivy or tree roots growing and expanding into your yard, you can deal with it up to the exact borderline, legally,' Ben says, 'but never over the line.

'However, you also legally cannot cause significant damage to the plant. Your root pruning cannot result in the plant dying, for example.

'So, you have to be careful when it comes to tree roots. If removing them could possibly damage the tree, you may want to avoid doing that, as this would be a tree pruning mistake that could end up costing you.'

Katie Sunderlage, a garden expert based in Wisconsin, agrees: 'When it comes to trimming back the roots of a tree on your property, but it belongs to your neighbor, it’s always best to check with your local jurisdiction. Most jurisdictions allow a land owner to trim or cut tree roots from a neighbor's tree that are encroaching on their land.

'Cutting back to the property line is usually allowed as long as the health of the tree is not in jeopardy.

'Regardless of the situation, when pruning tree branches, I feel it’s best practice to have a conversation with the neighbor before anything is done,' Katie says. 'I think maintaining a good relationship with a neighbor is important.

'And, who knows, the neighbor may help with any expenses or have other options for a solution without things turning sour.'

Steps to take when trimming roots

Some trees, like eastern redbuds, do not tend to produce shallow surface roots, while some other species, including invasive trees like Bradford pears, are known to produce problematic roots that snake along the surface of the soil.

Any smaller roots, under an inch or two in diameter, can simply be chopped back using a pruning saw.

For a large, established tree, removing these will not impact the health of the overall tree. Something like this highly rated Corona pruning saw, available via Amazon, should get the job done.

However, for anything larger, Katie recommends calling in the aborists.

'You might think, I can do this myself, but the professionals will be able to offer the best advice,' Katie says. 'They will likely have experienced this quandry on numerous occasions before.

'In fact, this has just happened to me. I live in a well-established neighborhood with big trees and privacy shrubs between our lot lines,' Katie continues.

'When we got a quote on our fence, it was brought up at that time that some of the roots from trees on the neighbor's lot may get in the way of where the posts need to go.

'Before they even started digging, we talked to the neighbor about the possibility and did mention some of the roots may need to be trimmed when putting in the posts.

'The person putting in our fence did have a document already formed regarding the need to possibly trim roots back, which we gave to the neighbor.

'We both signed the document and dated it, stating we were both aware that the tree roots may need to be trimmed and if any were large enough or in an area where the fence installation team may cause damage, they would consult with both of us prior to continuing.

'The neighbor was very grateful we talked to him before, and also mentioned he will be doing some work in the future and would be talking to us further if he thought any trees on our lot would be affected by this work.

'It was a great interaction, and I think it set us both up to be open in the future about any changes we make to our yard. So, communication is king, and I would always recommend seeking professional help and guidance before getting your axe out of the garden shed.'

For any smaller pruning jobs, you can use a mini-chainsaw, which will easily slice through branches and roots. Try something like this Saker electric mini-chainsaw, available now via Amazon.

As with most neighborly disputes, often the best course of action is communication. Having a calm chat over a cup of coffee might help to quickly resolve any confusion, and with any luck, you can agree on a joint action plan where both parties feel included and empowered.

For more information, see our feature on what to do if your neighbor's tree is blocking sunlight from your yard.

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Pruning fruit trees in August can feel counterintuitive. You might think you need to leave your apple and pear trees well alone while the fruit ripens. But, in my experience, a well-timed summer prune can make all the difference when it comes to the quality of your harvest.

A few summers back, while working in South Wales, I tended to three quince trees in a meadow at the rear of the garden, all of them with dense, leafy canopies (so thick I could barely find a safe spot for the ladder). After a few rather precarious moments balancing high up, I thinned out the crown, removing fleshy, unfruiting shoots and opening up the canopy for better air circulation. The result? Energy-efficient trees, focused on ripening their fruits, with the sun able to reach right into the heart of the tree.

I’ve found this philosophy holds true for many fruiting trees, including popular varieties like mulberries, peaches and damsons. Some careful cuts now will, in my experience, result in a better quality of fruit later this year. So, if you’re wondering which plants to prune in August, add these seven fruit trees to your list.

7 fruit trees to prune in August

Learning how to prune fruit trees in summer is less about hacking back wildly and more about a bit of careful intervention, trimming only the young fleshy growth.

Put simply, the goal is to reduce water loss through unnecessary leaves and focus more energy on those ripening fruits.

I’ve done this for years, standing atop wobbly old ladders, thinning old apples, trimming pears and taming quinces. And trust me, it pays off.

My advice? If you have one or two fruit trees to prune in August as part of your summer gardening checklist, make sure your tools are sharp and clean (you don't want to spread disease), and invest in a good quality ladder.

Try something like this highly rated Wolec telescopic V-shaped ladder, available from Amazon, which will let you get up close and personal in the canopy.

1. Apricots

Many different varieties of delicious apricot trees are popular with gardeners, and for good reason.

Most can be grown between zone 5 to zone 8, and whether you grow compact varieties in small urban yards, or larger, standard specimens that can soar over 20 feet, pruning in August is important.

In terms of getting an apricot to fruit (and producing the tastiest fruit), you need to let light penetrate the crown and provide plenty of ventilation. Now is the perfect time to thin out overcrowded growth, especially the inner canopy.

Be cautious not to prune too heavily, which would be a fruit tree pruning mistake at this time of year. Summer trimming isn’t about reshaping the tree entirely, but more about refinement.

Focus on overly leafy stems and congested areas, cutting two or three leaf nodes above a cluster of fruit, being careful not to damage fruit as you work.

For branches and apricot growth that is hard to reach, try something like this telescopic extendable tree pruner, available from Amazon.

2. Damsons

Damson trees might be less well-known than other popular trees, but these plum-like fruits are certainly worth your time.

If you have already learned how to get a damson tree to fruit, you will probably soon be overloaded with small purple fruits. In fact, the branches can get so heavy under the weight of the crop, they can begin to droop.

While damsons naturally shed some of their fruit in early summer, sometimes referred to as the 'June drop', it’s worth lending a helping hand.

As with other trees, I would advise thinning fruits so that there’s one damson every two to three inches on a branch. It feels brutal at the time, but those left behind will ripen and swell up all the better.

If you fancy investing in some new Japanese gardening tools for your summer jobs in the yard, try these Okatsune pruners, available from Walmart, which will surely elevate your gardening game this August.

3. Apples

Russets are my favorite apple variety to grow – a British heritage apple, with a bit of a rough texture, but the most delicious flavor.

Whatever variety you grow, whether Russet, Jonagold, Gala or Fuji, August pruning is key. If you grow apples in borders or grow apples in pots, simply snip away any non-fruiting shoots that are drawing too much energy.

Focus on the top growth, cutting down to a few leaf nodes. Reducing shoots and dense clumps of leaves will allow light to access the center of the tree.

For thicker apple branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through chunky stems that are a little too big for your pruners.

When pruning apples, you might be tempted to pluck one or two around this time, but learn from me: they’re not ready. Bitter and far from enjoyable. But a good prune can help them get there, and your fruits should be ready come fall.

4. Pears

Pears are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow, in my experience. I have grown two of the most common (and popular) varieties previously: Conference and Comice, both of which are ideal for smaller yards, as you can train them against a wall (as an espalier).

If you want to add a sweet, tasty heritage variety to your plot this year, try this live Bosc Pear Tree (Pyrus 'Bosc'), with live plants available from Nature Hills.

I have also trained pear trees as step-overs, growing them along a low wire at the edge of a kitchen garden in South Wales. While training like this takes a little patience, once established and happy, these low-growing trees can be good croppers.

As with apples, pears are masters of hiding their fruit beneath leafy canopies. In August, I make a point of pruning pears by thinning the stems and reducing vigorous, unproductive shoots. You want dappled light reaching every fruit, even those hidden in the center under old branches.

And, remember, keeping your tools sharp is so important when pruning trees, and using a sharpening stone will really help to make the job ten times easier.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which will help to keep your pruners in effective working order.

5. Quince

Quince trees, with their velvety, furry fruits, are surprisingly easy to grow, so long as you give them a little August attention.

Their canopies can become so dense (and heavy) with fruit and foliage, meaning that sunlight struggles to filter through, and that’s a problem if you’re after fruits that are good enough for jellies, chutneys, or simply as a table centerpiece in fall.

So, learning how to prune quince trees is important. A light thinning of non-fruiting shoots can dramatically improve the ripening process, cutting the new growth down to two or three leaf nodes.

For top shoots that grow upwards atop the crown, use something like this highly rated pole saw from Fiskars, available now via Home Depot. After all, you don't want to finish pruning with a handful of long shoots remaining right at the top of the tree.

I generally find that quince trees don't require too much fruit sacrificing, but if you have a cluster of three or four fruits together, it is probably worth tossing one or two on the compost heap, or leaving them as a snack for wildlife.

6. Mulberry

Mulberry trees are, quite simply, some of the best fruit trees with a delicious crop. If you already have one in your yard, I won't have to convince you of their value.

I once cared for a large mulberry with drooping, weeping branches that cascaded with fruits every summer. Picking was an ongoing summer task, done as needed, with half of them going into the freezer, but more often than not, we ate them straight off the branch.

August mulberry pruning is less about shaping and more about practicality: removing dense growth that hides fruit, and helping the harvest to be the best yet.

You don’t want to hack away mindlessly, but do take out vigorous new shoots that are shading the crop. But remember, keep any hard pruning to when the tree is dormant in winter.

7. Peach

In terms of when to prune a peach tree, a slightly different approach is required. The August pruning is usually done after (not before) the harvest is finished.

This is because after the fruits are picked, you might notice lots of leafy peach shoots springing upwards.

So, when learning how to prune a peach tree, simply complete a little trimming and thinning to help the tree redirect its energy towards strengthening branches and setting up for next year’s crop (remember that peaches form on new growth, so don't worry about impacting next year's fruits).

Focus on removing vertical shoots, as well as any congested growth in the center. Open, airy crowns mean less risk of mildew and pests.

Leave any hard pruning or rejuvenation pruning of non-stone fruit trees to fall and winter, ideally when your fruit trees are dormant and not in leaf, cutting back sometimes between November and February.

For stone fruits, including cherry trees and plum trees, all pruning (including rejuvenation) should be done during summer to reduce the risk of diseases such as silver leaf and bacterial canker, which can prove fatal.

For more information, see our guide on when to prune fruit trees.

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Bee balm is one of the best perennials you can add to your flower beds if you want to enjoy seeing lots of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds visiting your borders. A key part of annual maintenance is cutting back bee balm, but when is the best time to do this?

There are benefits to consider from taking time to cut back bee balm more than once. This includes before blooming, which can help boost the shape and create masses of the stunning firework-like flowers that both gardeners and pollinators adore, and after the flowering is over for the season.

When you grow bee balm, there are decisions you need to make about cutting back that come down to personal preference. To help you decide, let’s take a look at the options available, including the best course of action if your plants succumb to disease.

Discover when to cut back bee balm

Bee balm makes a fantastic plant for pollinators, ideal for those who aspire for a wildlife garden, and with a range of monarda varieties to choose from.

'Bee balm, as its name suggests, is also a pollinator magnet and a valuable addition to any pollinator garden,' says Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'It is a favorite of not only bees, but also butterflies and hummingbirds, and comes in a range of colors, from bold reds and pinks to cool purples and whites.'

No matter which monarda you pick as part of your backyard ideas, understanding when to cut back bee balm rewards you with increased flowering, tidier plants, and fewer fungal issues.

Let's delve into the key times of year to cut back bee balm, along with a few pointers for how to prune.

Cut back bee balm in spring

Bee balm begins to grow in spring as temperatures increase. Pruning the plant during spring offers the benefits of encouraging bushier growth and a more impressive display of blooms.

There are two ways to do this, and one is more severe than the other. The first method is to pinch back the tips of the growing stems once they reach 12 inches.

If you combine pinching back with thinning stems, you can improve air circulation and light penetration through the plant, which helps prevent powdery mildew. This is a common fungal issue that blights bee balm and appears as a white coating on the foliage.

The other option is to do what is often referred to as the 'Chelsea Chop'. This technique is named after the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which takes place in late May, and involves cutting back perennials by around one-third to one-half.

It may sound drastic, but bee balm will quickly recover, and the reward is more compact plants, less flopping, and a great flowering display. It is possible to chop half the plants and leave the other half, which will give you a long, staggered season of blooms.

Cut back bee balm after blooming

You should deadhead bee balm throughout the flowering season to keep the plant looking tidy and blooming for a long period. Deadheading and thinning also help combat powdery mildew and prevent lots of self-seeding, for which bee balm is well-known

Once the bee balm plant dies back in late fall, you can cut it back. However, you can choose whether to cut back bee balm in the fall or wait until spring. Whichever option you pick may depend on your gardening style and ethos, but there are also a few caveats which may force your hand to opt for fall.

Cutting bee balm back in fall tidies the yard and flower bed ahead of winter and helps to limit the amount of self-seeding that may occur.

Opting for a fall cutback is recommended if your bee balm has experienced powdery mildew. In this situation, cut the stems right back to the ground and remove any debris, as powdery mildew spores can overwinter on both live and dead plant material. Always bin diseased plant material, and never use it to make compost.

Choosing to leave disease-free stems, seedheads and leaves standing over winter benefits wildlife. Birds can feed on the dried seedheads, and insects and invertebrates can shelter in the crown of the plant. Leaving the plant material in place can also protect the crown from winter colds.

If you choose this route, cut back the remaining stems to the ground in late winter or early spring with a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or garden shears, before the new growth starts to appear.

Whether you cut back bee balm in fall or spring, applying a two-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant after trimming will help to retain moisture in the soil, smother weeds, and provide nutrients as the organic material breaks down.

FAQs

Can I cut back bee balm in summer?

It is advisable to add regular deadheading of bee balm to your summer gardening checklist. However, cutting the plant back is best left until after it has finished blooming for the season.

Should I prune bee balm with powdery mildew?

If your bee balm shows signs of powdery mildew, it is advisable to trim off any affected leaves and stems or cut the entire plant to the ground. In both circumstances, as mentioned above, get rid of any affected material, never compost it, and always thoroughly disinfect any pruning tools.

We have mentioned the dreaded powdery mildew a lot above, but there are ways to stop it from troubling your bee balm.

'To help prevent powdery mildew, make sure your bee balm plants have plenty of space to grow to help promote good air circulation,' adds Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'Newer cultivars are also being developed that have improved powdery mildew resistance.'

Another way to prevent powdery mildew is to make sure you understand how to water plants to prevent fungal issues from occurring. This includes watering early in the day to avoid the foliage sitting wet for long periods.

Along with picking the right planting spot, proper spacing, and pruning to boost air circulation, it all combines to help control powdery mildew.

I’ve used my fair share of pruning tools over the years. Everything from long-handled loppers for hazel coppicing to pole pruners to keep an unruly dark green yew in check. I’ve balanced on ladders, fought with thick stems and tried a whole range of tools in different gardens where I have worked.

When it comes to thicker branch pruning in summer – for example, fruit trees that need thinning out in August, or boundary hedges and shrubs that have gone a bit feral – I’ve often wished for something that sits between a hand saw and a full-size electric or gas chainsaw. That’s where this little tool comes in. The Saker mini chainsaw is available now at $39 via Amazon (a decent 23% off), is turning heads this summer, and after reading the reviews, I can see why.

Not only is this essential pruning tool easy to use, it’s compact and cordless, making it far more manageable than anything I’ve used before for quick, clean cuts on limbs up to around four inches thick. For gardeners who want to sort that rambling rose that hasn't seen a saw in many a year, or that butterfly bush that urgently needs some attention, this tool is the perfect addition for your shed.

What are people saying about the Saker mini chainsaw?

With over 15,000 reviews and an average rating of 4.5 stars, the Saker mini chainsaw has certainly earned a little fanbase in recent years.

More than 75% of reviewers give this essential gardening tool five stars, often highlighting its portability and ease of use, especially for those who might struggle with the weight of larger, more traditional models.

One five-star reviewer from May 2025 wrote: 'It cuts smaller branches rapidly and with ease since it has good power and cutting speed. Just today, we had a very large branch come down due to age and wind. It was clearly large enough to require professional removal by an arborist... I decided to see if this saw could handle this section for me, and it did so with ease.'

Another user in July 2025 said: 'This little machine will go through a four-inch tree with no kick-back and it's powerful. I love it!! Easy to use! A must-have for anyone with a property with vegetation.'

The reviewer went on to say that buying bigger is not always better, and sometimes is actually a hindrance: 'I bought a bigger saw at first because I thought I needed "bigger" to be "better", but the chain kept falling off every time I tried going through anything three inches or more. Major pain! So then I bought this smaller one, and it blows me away with the workability!'

Of course, it’s not perfect. A few left-handed users have mentioned the safety button being awkward to operate, and one reviewer noted it may overheat with constant, heavy use, writing: 'I feel it would overheat for anything but light duty, occasional use of branches three to four inches thick.'

However, for most day-to-day pruning jobs that are part of your summer gardening checklist, including plants to prune in August, it seems to hit the sweet spot, and is compact, capable and kind on the wrists.

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How to use mini chainsaw

This is a tool designed for ease and speed when tree pruning and coppicing. It weighs just over 1kg (including the battery) and is operated with one hand, making it ideal for quick jobs or those awkward angles where loppers just won’t do.

It comes with a 20V rechargeable lithium battery, and users report solid runtime for light pruning tasks. I’d suggest fully charging it before first use (the indicator light will turn green when it’s ready) and storing it fully charged if it’s going back in the shed for a while.

It's a simple push button mechanism, but with a safety lock to prevent accidental activation, plus a protective guard and hand shield, which give added peace of mind when working through thickets or undergrowth. And the best bit? It comes with everything you need, including a charger, an oil bottle, a screwdriver, and a wrench.

It also comes with a 12-month warranty, and if there is a problem or issue within the first year, you get a direct replacement without having to return the faulty one.

If you’re tackling tree pruning, taming unruly hedges, or even just tidying the far corner of the garden, this mini chainsaw could make the job faster and far less tiring.

As someone who’s spent too long sawing through gnarly branches while wobbling on a ladder, I wish I’d had this years ago.

For more information on maintaining your pruning equipment, see our guide on how to clean garden tools.

There’s a particular mood in the garden in August, I find. Growth in pots, borders and meadows begins to slow, and with it, our pace, too. Stems stretch out, blooms brown, and a golden haze settles on everything. It’s not quite the full collapse of fall, but a much-needed summer exhale after the chaos of the season. And yet, there is still pruning to be done. Not a drastic haircut, the kind reserved for winter and spring, but some shrubs and trees do benefit from a well-timed trim now.

I’ve pruned many plants in many different gardens where I have worked. On wobbly ladders in Tuscan courtyards, squinting up at unruly wisteria. Perfectly formed box balls in South Wales using wooden stencils to get the curves just so, as well as training hawthorn hedges in London and having the scratches to show for it. Some gardens were clipped and formal, others loose, wild and more carefree. But in all of them, this month called for some delicate pruning by a slower hand.

So, whether you’re tackling runaway climbers or leggy herbs, this is the moment for gentle shaping. Here are seven plants to prune in August that I always add to my summer gardening checklist.

7 plants to prune in August

Before you reach for the secateurs, it’s worth knowing that there are many plants not to prune in summer. Some, like rhododendrons and camellias, set their buds in summer for next year’s flowers, so if you cut them now and you’ll lose the following spring’s show.

But others thrive with a little August attention. Trimming and tidying this month can help to keep shrubs and trees in good health and looking compact and bushy.

Just remember, timing matters. Regardless of where you live and your US hardiness zone, chances are August will be hot. And, if you’re in the middle of a heatwave, with temperatures soaring above 80°F (26°C), step away from the loppers and pruners.

I would always suggest waiting for a cooler morning or an overcast afternoon, which will be better for the plants and much easier on you, too. Here are seven plants to prune in August.

1. Box

I’ve shaped a lot of box in my time, from small, neat spheres to long, cloud-like blobbery planting in formal beds.

In terms of when is the time to cut topiary, it will depend on what species you grow, but for box, I recommend trimming twice a year. Usually, once in late spring (taking off one third of growth) and again now, in August, when the main flush has slowed.

This second trim helps box hold its shape right through to winter and stops it looking shaggy.

For young plants, you might want to take a little more off to maintain the shape, but I have often found that with mature specimens, a gentle tidy is all that’s needed, just enough to restore clean lines.

Avoid cutting any later than this, really, as any soft new growth can shoot up and get caught out by early frosts in October.

For an even topiary cut, try this cordless electric hedge trimmer by Ryobi, available at Home Depot now, which is highly rated by users.

2. Thyme

I’ve seen creeping thyme grow through cracks and along paths in many different settings. I loved it spilling over the path in one Tuscan garden, where it would hum with bees, scenting the air when brushed.

But like all Mediterranean aromatic herbs, if left uncut too long, it gets woody and sparse at the center. And, let's face it, while this might look aged and characterful, woody thyme and woody lavender never look that attractive.

So, giving your plant a little trim in August, once flowering has finished, can help to keep it compact and bushy.

With thyme, like other herbs, don’t cut into bare wood, as you might end up killing the plant.

And, one more tip. Avoid doing this during scorching afternoons or weeks where the weather is extreme (common in zone 9), which can stress the plant.

Pick a mild day, trimming in the morning using something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available to order via Amazon, which will easily cut the top few inches.

3. Climbing hydrangea

I once worked in a garden where a climbing hydrangea covered an entire exterior wall of the house, reaching up to the chimney. It was magnificent, sure, but also a time-intensive plant to prune, and one that required a long ladder.

If this is the case for you, too, try this telescopic ladder available from Amazon, which is ideal for reaching taller vines, but also compact for storing in the garden shed.

Climbing hydrangeas are some of the best evergreen climbers and also some of the best hydrangea varieties, but they do require some annual attention.

In terms of how to prune climbing hydrangeas, then, August is the time to tidy. Trim back after the white flowers have finished blooming (they will have turned brown by August) to maintain shape and encourage shoots and growth lower down.

It is important to prune climbing hydrangeas annually, as over time, they can become woody and heavy, and with strong winds and snow in fall and winter, a collapsing plant can cause damage.

4. Bottlebrush

Bottlebrush plants are part of the Callistemon plant family and they make great flowering shrubs for sunny yards in borders and pots.

I have known them to require very little water even during hot and dry summers, so they are ideal if you want shrubs that thrive on neglect.

Pruning your bottlebrush shrub in August is important, by which time it will have finished flowering.

Doing so at this stage in the growth cycle will ensure your plant remains compact and bushy, and will leave plenty of time for new shoots and green growth to harden off before the cold of winter.

If you want to carry out some heavy pruning and remove any thicker branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through larger stems.

5. Japanese holly

By August, your Japanese hollies, or Ilex crenata, might look a bit wild, especially if grown as topiary. Even a few inches of growth can lessen the impact of a sharp dome or pyramid display.

So, while these are some of the best low-maintenance evergreen shrubs for a front yard, learning how to prune holly bushes in August will help to keep your borders and pots looking crisp.

I would suggest cutting Japanese holly no later than two months before your average first frost. So, if you live in a cooler zone, like zone 4 or 5, it is a good idea to get trimming and shaping early in August, to give your plants enough time to harden off before the frost and snow arrive.

To achieve a nice, clean and uniform cut, use something like these Suizan long-handled loppers, available via Amazon, which are highly rated Japanese gardening tools that are built to last.

Remember also that Japanese hollies are considered toxic to humans and can irritate the skin, so I would suggest wearing gardening gloves when pruning.

6. Wisteria

Wisteria vines can get out of control if not regularly pruned. If you go on vacation for a few weeks during summer, chances are you will return and your wisteria will have decided to produce many feet of unruly growth.

Chinese wisteria,Wisteria sinensis, is known for its aggressive growth rates, which means they are considered an invasive climber in 19 US states, including Illinois. So, keeping an eye on growth and spread is important.

For a native species that is non-invasive, try the 'Blue Moon' American wisteria, with live plants available now via Walmart.

Whether you grow wisteria in pots or borders, most gardeners opt to prune wisteria twice during the year.

Once in winter, which is for hard pruning and training, usually around December or January. And, secondly, you must prune wisteria again in August, which is largely for thinning and cutting back any long whippy new stems.

Simply cut back those long new shoots to five or six leaves, which encourages buds to form where you want next year’s flowers to hang. Leave the bigger pruning and shaping for winter.

If there are any out-of-reach whippy stems, use something like these highly rated Fiskars extendable pruners, available now via Amazon, which will help to clear all long and messy growth.

7. Lavender

If you want to avoid having woody lavender plants in your yard, summer pruning is essential.

Whether you grow English or French lavender, or any species for that matter, trimming in August is a good idea to keep plants compact and bushy.

The golden rule is never to cut into the woody base, however, so be sure to only cut down into green growth, taking off a few inches or as much as you think necessary.

This keeps your lavenders looking tidy, and, while it might feel a little cruel, especially as these fragrant shrubs look and smell so good during August, a bit of tough love now will prolong the life of these herbs.

If you want to add a new plant to your patio pots this year, try French lavender, with live plants available via Walmart.

Whatever tools you are using for your pruning jobs in August, be sure to keep your equipment clean and sharp.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which will help to keep your loppers and pruners in good (and effective) condition.

Our guide on sharpening stones has all the information to take you through the process.

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I’ve grown cosmos in many different settings and locations. In South Wales, where I worked for a private estate garden, I grew Cosmos bipinnatus 'Apricot Lemonade' in a vast border that enjoyed plenty of sunshine each day. Showy? Sure. But the pink-peach blooms, in my opinion, are impossible to beat, and I return to them year after year.

The secret to fuller, longer-lasting cosmos blooms? Pinching out. You’ve got to be cruel to be kind. When cosmos are just six to 10 inches tall, it can feel rather counterintuitive to chop them back slightly, but this one small act transforms them into compact, bushy, floriferous machines that will last all summer long.

And, within a week of pinching out, side shoots will appear, and by midsummer, plants will be fuller, stronger and smothered in blooms. So, if you want to learn how to keep cosmos blooming, don’t skip this simple step. Here’s everything I’ve learned about how to pinch out cosmos.

How to pinch out cosmos plants

Much like learning how to grow cosmos, pinching out is a quick, simple job, but the results are anything but modest.

So, when these fast-growing flowering annuals are around ten or so inches tall and have a few sets of true leaves, I look for the central growing stem, i.e., the tall, upright stem that is leading the pack.

Then, using clean, sharp snips (or even just my fingertips), I cut or snap just above a pair of leaves, removing the top growth.

Use something like these Fiskars deadheading snips, available from Amazon.

Pinching out at this stage (or when the plant is slightly taller) triggers the plant to produce lateral branches, or side shoots, from just below the cut.

In time, these new side shoots will then go on to produce flower buds of their own, and the plant (in theory) should become bushier, stronger, and far more floriferous than if you’d left it to grow tall and leggy.

In the long run, your cosmos plants will produce many more flowers, all thanks to this simple but effective intervention.

And, while it is crucial in most settings, I find it is especially important for taller types of cosmos or those in exposed spots, as bushier growth means better structure and less flopping over.

Finally, once you are enjoying flowers, deadheading regularly is vital if you want to keep the show going until frost. Again, you can use snips or your fingers, but removing those browning petals will keep your plant producing more and more flowers... and who wouldn't want that?

Any faded flowers or stems snipped can be chucked on the compost heap, which will quickly decompose when combined with lots of plant material from your borders.

FAQs

What happens if I don’t pinch out cosmos plants?

Cosmos plants will still happily grow and flower if you do not pinch out. However, they tend to only produce flowers at the top of tall growth. In my experience, this means you get just a handful of blooms at the top of plants before they topple over, whereas if you pinch out, you should enjoy masses of blooms on compact, bushy specimens.

The pinching out trick is the same for many annuals, including dahlias and zinnias. A small bit of effort in spring and early summer will go a long way to keeping your plants in good shape. Our guides have all the information you need.

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From wayward yew hedges to messy box domes, I have tackled (even wrestled) many shrubs and topiary plants in my years as a professional gardener. And let me tell you, effective tools make all the difference. I have learned to keep things light and cordless where I can, which can be transformative when you have many evergreens to trim during summer.

If you are wondering how to buy a hedge trimmer to help with your pruning jobs, it can feel overwhelming, what with so many products available online and in stores. But one brilliant little device for light shaping has caught my eye this week. And, at $40, this WorkPro mini hedge trimmer, available now via Amazon, is a steal that won't be in stock for long.

Lightweight, rechargeable and far easier on the wrists than heavy or clunky bigger models, this Workpro mini hedge trimmer is exactly the sort of low-stress tool I wish I’d discovered years ago. And judging by the thousands of positive reviews, I’m not the only one.

What are people saying about the Workpro mini hedge trimmer?

This cordless handheld trimmer is an essential gardening tool that has built up quite a fan base online.

On Amazon, it has nearly 9,000 reviews, with an overall rating of 4.3 stars, and approximately 70% rank it as a 5-star product, which I think is impressive, by any standard.

Many reviewers praise its lightweight nature, with several commenting that the Workpro mini hedge trimmer is perfect for pruning hedging plants in small yards or for people who might struggle with the weight or size of typical models.

One five-star review from June 2025 reads: 'Love this hedge trimmer... today I trimmed my juniper bush and it’s still going. It makes nice, smooth, even cuts.' The reviewer goes on to praise the lightweight model, but does say it is 'definitely not made for larger branches.'

Another reviewer from July 2025 praises how nimble this essential pruning tool is: 'I bought this to help cut down weeds and long grass between recently planted raspberry bushes. String trimming wouldn’t work because of the spacing. What would have been a two-hour thing... took less than 20 minutes!'

Some reviews do caution that the model lacks a lockability function, meaning you have to hold down two buttons when in use.

For example, one four-star reviewer from June 2025 commented: 'Though I appreciate the long battery life and the versatility of this tool, it isn’t the miracle solution I was hoping for... when my arthritis is bad, I can’t hold the two buttons down at the same time.'

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How to use mini hedge trimmers

This mini hedge trimmer couldn’t be easier to use. First, charge it fully using the provided Type-C cable. Once ready, the model is cordless, so there aren't any trailing wires to worry about.

While it may vary between models, most come with two interchangeable blades: a short hedge trimming blade for box, lavender and light shrub growth, and a grass shear blade for edges or tufty patches.

To switch blades, just click them into place, no tools needed. Slide the safety switch, press and hold the trigger, and you’re away to go.

One tip from me? Wipe the blades clean after each use with a damp rag to prevent yew or box sap from sticking. Then, it is best to store the trimmer somewhere dry, like a shed or garage.

This handy tool will prove useful if you have many plants to prune in July or August, such as box hedging or yew topiary. Just be sure to pick a dry day and trim early in the morning, to avoid the heat of midday that can stress plants.

For more pruning advice and inspiration, check out these Fiskars deadheading snips, which will prove useful for flowerbeds and cutting patches.

During summer, a quick spot of deadheading can extend past the 30-minute mark. If you are anything like me, you might intend to be out in the yard for a quick five minutes, but return inside much later than anticipated with green-stained hands and a bucket full of spent blooms.

After years working as a professional gardener, I have tidied and trimmed all sorts, from vast cut flower yards with rows of snapdragons, to tiny terraces crammed full of pots of sweet peas and zinnias. I have come to appreciate a well-designed tool above almost anything else.

While there are many snips available online, these Fiskars deadheading snips, available now via Amazon, stand out, and the reviews prove it. They’re sharp as a razor and as light as a feather, and so slight you can slip them into your pocket (although I would recommend a holster, to avoid any nasty surprises). Believe me, the best pruners can really make all the difference.

What are people saying about these Fiskars deadheading snips?

Currently on sale for Prime Day at just $15, these snips are a steal, in my opinion, and an investment that will keep your pots and borders looking spectacular.

These Fiskars deadheading snips have amassed close to 5,000 reviews on Amazon, with an overall score of 4.6 out of 5, and over 80% of reviews opting for 5 stars.

Amazon buyers praise the handy ergonomic shape and the featherweight design of these essential pruning tools.

One five-star reviewer in June 2025 said: 'There is not a better precise trimmer that I know of... Great for deadheading, quick basil and parsley harvesting, and other more intensive trimming jobs.'

Another five-star reviewer in July 2025 noted how they 'fit perfectly in my medium-sized hand for snipping green beans and tomatoes.' This reviewer went on to comment that they are 'nice and sharp with a protective cap when not in use.'

There is some mention that the safety lock can stick slightly or break over time, with one reviewer writing in November 2024 that 'the slide lock does break easily.'

So, while there is some concern about the locking feature, overall, the consensus is that these snips punch well above their price point... especially when on sale.

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How to use deadheading snips

Whether you are learning how to deadhead sweet peas or getting your head around deadheading verbena for the first time, the principle is always the same.

The aim is always to remove spent blooms that are dead or dying. Usually, these are easy to spot as they will appear brown or black in appearance.

I always trim just above a set of healthy leaves or new buds, and using smaller snips like these will allow you to be precise.

Give your pruning snips a clean with some water after use, and use a sharpening stone every other week to keep your tools in tip-top shape.

And, remember to store your tools correctly, keeping them in a dry environment, never leaving them outside in the rain.

With deadheading, I find that little and often is the best approach. Consistently snipping any fading blooms every few days will help to prolong the summer show. And, remember to compost those brown petals, which will quickly break down and add nutrition to your soil.

For more advice, see our guide on how to prevent pruning shears from rusting, and keep your new snips in good condition this summer.

Oh, the flamboyance and theatre of brightly colored begonias. You either love them or hate them, but if you fit into the former category, knowing how to exploit them for all their flowering potential will ensure you have many more flowers, for a much longer period.

So, if you're wondering how to grow begonias and help them maximize their flowering potential, knowing how to deadhead begonias is paramount for optimal growth. If you deadhead properly throughout the growing season, your begonias will reward you with a proliferation of new blooms.

Here is the ultimate guide on how to keep begonias blooming, for full-throttle tropical color for longer.

Why is it important to deadhead begonias?

If you don't deadhead begonias, the flowers will bloom, wilt, fade, and rot of their own accord. This process is, technically speaking, totally fine to happen naturally and without intervention. However, it poses a few threats.

Firstly, wilted and sorry-looking, faded blooms can make your begonias look very scruffy and ruin their spectacular display.

Secondly, the rotting flowers, if not removed, can often cause a fungal disease to break out, and damage the plant.

Lastly, but perhaps most importantly, once the flowers have faded and dropped off, begonias do not focus their energy on producing more flowers, instead, they concentrate their energy on producing their seed. Once seed is produced, flowering stops in its tracks.

Deadheading will prevent all of these things and keep your begonias flowering generously right up until winter.

When to deadhead begonias

You can deadhead begonias at any point throughout the flowering season. It is not a job to be done simply once but done regularly throughout the entire growing season. It's crucial to continue deadheading to get as much enjoyment from your plants as possible.

Ideally, you want to remove any spent blooms before the plant creates seeds. Waiting until you see seed heads on the plant means you have left it too late. So, instead, look for faded, wilted, or browning flowers and remove them immediately.

You can deadhead begonias up to the first frost, when your begonias will naturally stop flower production.

How to deadhead begonias

Knowing how to deadhead begonias is wonderfully straightforward.

When the flowers of a begonia go brown and die, you can use your fingers, clean pruning shears, or scissors to remove these old, faded blooms.

Only remove the blooms that are past their prime, and leave any new buds or developing flowers on the plant.

Take hold of the flower and its stem, and either pinch the stem so you can break off the flower, or cut with your snips. If there is a new bud growing beneath the dying flower, be sure to cut above it.

Repeat this process every few days.

Top tip: Ensure you throw the flowers away, don't drop them at the base of the plant, as this can encourage disease.

Depending on where you live, you may need to overwinter begonias when the first frost is looming.

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If you're looking for some of the best begonia varieties to grow in your yard, the good news is that there are hundreds of varieties to choose from.

Begonias are hardy across US hardiness zone 6 to US hardiness zone 9, though you should always check the hardiness of the specific begonia you wish to grow in your yard to ensure it will thrive in your local climate.

You may have heard of 'The Chelsea Chop', but have you heard of 'The Hampton Hack'? No? Well, this popular pruning technique is swiftly becoming a valuable the of the gardening lexicon as it's got many pulses racing at its power to rejuvenate and reanimate gardens that are in a bit of a midsummer lull. As we think about those plants to prune in July, the Hampton Hack is a pruning technique that, with a little pluck and bravery, can reap enormous returns.

It takes its name from The RHS Hampton Court Palace Garden Festival, which returns every July. The idea is, at this time of year, we can cut back a variety of perennial plants that have finished flowering right back to the ground. It might sound savage (and a little scary), but it rewards your garden with an explosion of new growth, color, and renewed floral displays.

Here, we shine a light on how you can do The Hampton Hack at home.

What is The Hampton Hack?

Ultimately, the aim of the Hampton Hack is to extend the flowering season and maximise the full potential of your early-flowering perennial plants.

While the Chelsea Chop involves cutting certain plants back before they flower in late May, around the time of the Chelsea Flower Show, the Hampton Hack is done in early July to rejuvenate plants that have finished flowering, so to stimulate them to get a new lease of life and bloom again.

When to do the Hampton Hack

As befits its name, the Hampton Hack should take place in early July, around when the Hampton Court Palace Festival takes place.

At this point, many perennial plants will have finished flowering. Whilst they will remain perfectly fit and healthy, many may not throw out any more growth for the rest of summer after flowering their socks off through May and June.

But, there is a lot of growing potential still to be tapped into, and this is why performing the Hampton Hack early enough in summer gives plants plenty of warm days to come to bounce back for another period of flowering.

How to do the Hampton Hack

Firstly, identify those plants you will be targeting. Crucially, you are only setting your sights on the early-flowering perennials in your garden. You want to ensure they have already flowered before now.

Here are a few examples of plants that should be a part of the Hampton Hack.

• Salvia
• Alchemilla
• Catmint
• Delphiniums and Lupins
• Knautia
• Veronica
• Red Velarian
• All early-flowering geraniums
• Jacob's Ladder (Polemonium)
• Oriental Poppies
• Pulmonaria

Knowing how to do the Hampton Hack in your garden is remarkably easy, if not a little daunting, purely because of how brutal it might feel if you haven't done it before. Firstly, ensure your pruning shears are disinfected so you don't transmit any diseases to your beloved plants.

Clumps of these perennials can be chopped back to just above ground level – around 10cm from the ground.

Do not forget to give your plants a thorough watering and feed them with a good quality fertilizer. The key to success lies in moist, healthy soil. If the soil is nutrient-dense and well watered, in no time at all, you will see new growth emerging.

Don't forget there are a plethora of flowers to deadhead in July too, that should not be part of the Hampton Hack, like roses, peonies, and dahlias.

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It is worth getting your hands on the essential pruning tools all gardeners need before setting out, as a blunt pair of shears and uncovered hands will make the job much more of a hassle than it needs to be.

Whilst overfeeding your plants is a common fertilizing mistake, after doing a Hamptons Hack, your plants will certainly benefit from a good feed, so don't be shy with the plant food. If you are not sure how your soil's nutrient profile is in your yard, it is well worth finding out before you buy plant food, as you might be getting the wrong one. Before investing in fertilizer (and there are a lot on the market) test your soil with a soil test kit, like this soil test kit available at Amazon.

I’ve pruned a lot of plants in my time as a gardener. Some I had to tackle from atop a wobbly ladder, and at least once I had to take shears with me in a cherry picker, to confront a rather unmanageable wisteria. Through all of these experiences, one thing I have come to understand is that timing is crucial.

July pruning really matters. But, importantly, this month is not the time for a full garden chop-back (that’s for the dormant season during winter or early spring before everything kicks off), but, instead, this is the time for a quieter trim. A summer tidy, if you like. This is the moment for taming wayward stems, encouraging a second flush, and giving your plants a summer haircut.

So, from stately fruit trees to fragrant flowering shrubs, here are seven plants to prune in July that should be added to your summer gardening checklist.

7 plants to prune in July before it is too late

Pick your moment to prune wisely this month to avoid any pruning mistakes. Right now, both the US and UK are facing blistering heat waves, and if it's a scorching day (with temperatures above 80°F/ 26°C), step away from the pruners and delay your trimming. Pruning when it is too hot can cause real damage to the plant.

Regardless of where you live and your US hardiness zone, chances are, July will be a hot month. But, it is important to wait for a cool morning or an overcast afternoon, which will be easier on both your plants and on you.

It's also worth knowing that not all plants respond well to a summer trim. There are many plants not to prune in summer to be aware of, including hydrangeas and hibiscus.

But, the following species? These are the seven plants to prune in July that I know will benefit from a good tidy right now.

1. Lilac

I have cared for many lilac shrubs in my time gardening, and getting their maintenance right is important. After all, you wouldn't want to sacrifice any fragrant flowers in the following spring, would you?

In terms of when to prune lilac, these are spring-flowering shrubs, so they are good plants to trim after blooms look a little sad and have turned brown in summer.

They flower on old wood (or the previous year's growth), so really, early July is your last chance to trim.

If you are pretty happy with how your lilac looks, and the shape and density of your shrub seem fine, you might just need to lightly cut back the spent flowers, which will prevent your lilac from wasting energy on seed production.

If you need to thin your lilac, carefully remove some of the oldest stems, using a pruning saw to cut down to a healthy joint, which will help to open up the centre.

Use something like this highly rated Fiskars pruning saw, available via Amazon, which is far preferable to trying (and failing) to cut larger stems and branches with small pruners.

2. Californian lilac

California lilacs are some of the best flowering shrubs for full sun and will provide year-round interest in mild regions, including zone 8 and zone 9.

I've grown them in tricky dry beds and watched them thrive during long, hot summers without any help needed.

While they are beautiful, California lilacs, or Ceanothus spp., can get a bit scraggly, or a little leggy, especially after a few years of unchecked growth.

So, in terms of how and when to prune shrubs, simply remove a few inches of green growth in July. It is that simple, and doing so will keep your plant compact and in good health.

A word of warning: just don’t prune into old wood, as Ceanothus spp. can sulk or die back if cut too hard.

These Berry & Bird wooden pruners, available from Amazon, should get the job done without any challenge, and with an attractive wooden handle, will add that heritage feel to your garden shed.

3. Honeysuckle

In terms of when to prune honeysuckle, these are climbing plants to prune in June and July, once the flowers have faded.

This is not the case for all species, however, as some varieties of honeysuckle will still be in flower this month. If yours is still going strong, hold off pruning until the blooms are finished.

Prune any whippy stems to two or three leaf buds from the main framework, and snip away any dead or dying branches that have few leaves (and should be easy to spot).

If the base is getting woody and bare, cut one or two older stems down low to encourage new growth from below.

You can learn how to propagate honeysuckle in summer, if your plant is looking like it has seen better days. Or, alternatively, why not invest in a new vine?

For a native plant, why not grow coral honeysuckle, or Lonicera sempervirens, which does best from zone 4 plus and tolerates a range of soils and lighting situations.

Live coral honeysuckle plants are available from Amazon and will fill vertical surfaces with masses of fragrant peach-orange flowers for years to come.

4. Philadelphus

Immediately after flowering is the right time to prune mock oranges, or Philadelphus spp..

This, of course, will vary depending on where you live and the variety you grow, but July is usually a safe time to reach for the loppers.

The goal with mock orange pruning is to keep these tough shrubs in a nice shape, with good bushy growth, while also encouraging strong flowering stems next year. You don't need to trim masses, just enough to keep the shrub in good form.

However, there are many different mock orange varieties, and some smaller varieties won't generally need much trimming, if any.

Take this 'Snow White Sensation' mock orange, live plants available from Nature Hills, which grows no taller than four feet, and would only require a light prune.

These Felco high-performance pruners, available from Walmart, will make light work of any mock orange maintenance you need to do, and also have a useful red handle, making them easy to spot if you drop them in the border.

5. Snowball bush

In May and June, the branches of snowball viburnums are typically heavy with large, white pom-pom flowers. Once these blooms have finished, usually around late June and July, it is a good time to prune your snowball bush.

If your viburnum shrub is in good shape and relatively compact, all you need to do is a spot of deadheading, cutting any flowerheads off using your pruners.

However, snowball bushes are one of those shrubs that are prone to looking top-heavy and a little unruly if left without pruning for too long.

Indeed, without maintenance, they can reach up to 12 or even 15 feet, which may be a little too big in a smaller space.

So, little and often is a good approach to keep your shrub tidy and compact, but hold off on any hard pruning (rejuvenation pruning is best done in late winter or early spring).

6. Cherry trees

Summer is the best time to prune flowering cherry trees. The reason for this is that cherries, or Prunus spp., are rather vulnerable to disease if pruning is done in fall or winter.

So, to avoid any run-in with bacterial canker, or any other cold-weather disease or problem for that matter, give your flowering cherry trees in pots or borders a trim during July.

Simply remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches to allow air and light to access the crown of the tree.

For thicker branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon.

If you’ve got a young cherry tree, this is also the time to train it into its desired structure. Identify which stems are the ones you want to encourage in the years ahead, and gently support or stake as the young tree grows.

7. Deutzia

Deutzia is one of those shrubs that quietly steals the show in late spring, with frothy white flowers that look great as patio plants.

In my experience, by June and July, they have usually finished flowering and are ready for a small haircut.

These popular shrubs flower on old wood produced during the previous summer, so timely trimming in early July will give your deutzia plenty of time to produce new growth.

Follow the one-third pruning rule, cutting back the flowering stems by about a third to promote lots of new growth.

Whatever pruning tools you are using, be sure to keep them clean and sharp, which will make the job ten times more efficient.

There are many sharpening stones available online, and for a small investment, your tools will remain in tip-top trimming condition.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which is remarkably easy to use and highly rated.

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Blanket flower, also known as gaillardia, is a titillatingly exuberant border plant that sets a blaze of color across any garden and flowers profusely in excited fecundity.

It grows and flowers at an almighty rate, filling up borders with color at a gallop. It is one of the best fast-growing flowers to plant in spring, and will bloom continuously from May right through to October. But despite its full-throttle theatrics all summer long, deadheading can make it shift a gear, and flower even more profusely and for even longer.

Here's everything you need to know about deadheading these ebullient and wonderfully easygoing plants.

Is it essential to deadhead blanket flowers?

The short and sweet answer to this question is no, it is not strictly essential to the health and lifespan of your blanket flower plant to be deadheaded.

However, if aesthetic considerations play a part in your gardening scheme, and to my mind that will ring true for most of us, then whilst deadheading isn't strictly necessary for health reasons, deadheading will vastly improve how much of a generous flowerer your blanket flowers are throughout summer. Deadheading will prevent the plant from making seed and encourage further blooming.

Whilst blanket flowers will continue to produce flowers without deadheading, regular deadheading will coax even more flowers out of each plant, so to fully maximise the flowering potential of your plants, it is best practice to do so.

Besides, deadheading is extremely easy and cathartic. Best done when wandering and admiring the garden in the evening, with chilled drink in hand.

When to deadhead blanket flowers

These colorful daisy-like flowers bloom for an incredibly long time, often found pumping out flowers from spring through summer and right into fall. You can deadhead throughout this entire growing season, indeed, you should.

The idea is to deadhead the spent flowers before the plant drops the petals and makes the seed head. Interrupting this process will prevent the message from returning to the plant that their flowering job is done. You may find this happens very quickly, so it's best to check them routinely as you wander about the garden, and if you spot a spent flower, remove it immediately.

Spent flowers are glaringly obvious, not least because they often look scruffy and lethargic. Look out for wilting, browning, and fatigued-looking petals.

As you hurtle into fall, you should stop deadheading blanket flowers and let them produce their seeds. Their seeds provide a wonderful buffet for songbirds, so do leave them on the plant for a while before cutting all the stems back to the ground, which should be done when flowering is finally over. You can pick up deadheading the following spring when they begin to flower once again.

How to deadhead blanket flowers

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to deadhead blanket flowers

• Identify the flowers that need removing
• Clean your pruning tools to prevent the transmission of diseases
• Cut off the flower stem below the spent flower and just above the first set of full, healthy leaves
• Collect the spent flowers and add to the compost bin
• Don't fertilize after deadheading blanket flowers; they prefer poor soil, so a light watering will suffice

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If you haven't already been deadheading your blanket flowers, now's the time to dust off those gardening snips and get out there. There are over two dozen species of annual and perennial blanket flowers, so you can grow several different varieties to inject serious quantities of color into your yard.

Gardenias have an army of devotees. They are reliable summer-flowering perennials, and in the summer, the air hangs heavy with their intoxicating scent. If you are the steward of a gardenia plant, or are wondering how to grow gardenia to maximise its flowering and fragrance potential, then you must learn how to deadhead gardenias properly.

Each gardenia flower can last for several weeks, but if left to its own devices, it will produce sporadic blooms, leading to a somewhat anticlimactic summer display and unexceptional scent that may have you doubting its garden worthiness. Rest assured, though, deadheading will supercharge flowering and transform a lacklustre gardenia into a highly floriferous plant.

So, brush off those secateurs and get snipping. Here we explain how to deadhead gardenias perfectly for full-throttle flowering all summer long.

Why you need to deadhead gardenias

Without being deadheaded, gardenias will cease being such generous flowerers and direct all of their energy into producing their seeds, to reproduce. It is important to deadhead the flowers before the plant goes on to produce its seed pod, because once the seed pod is formed, the plant will not create a new flower.

When deadheaded, gardenias go on to create a colossal cloud of spiral white flowers throughout the summer months, and in warm areas where the plant performs particularly well, few plants rival its spectacle.

Continuous deadheading right up to fall will ensure continued blooming, so keep going, keep snipping.

When to deadhead gardenias

You should deadhead the spent flowers on your gardenia plant every week throughout the entire blooming season, starting in spring, and you should stop deadheading your gardenia in late summer to early fall.

September would be a good time to stop. Don't continue to deadhead into fall, as it will stimulate more growth that won't have time to harden off before winter, leaving it vulnerable to frost damage.

At this point, it is better to leave the spent blooms in place and let them produce their pretty seed pods, as these provide much-needed food for birds in fall and winter.

How to deadhead gardenias

Knowing how to deadhead gardenias is delightfully easy and faff free. The main thing to bear in mind is that consistency is key to success. You should be deadheading regularly and always removing any spent blooms as soon as you see them. Do not let your flowers go to seed at any point throughout spring and summer.

The second key to success is to be unsparing with your approach to deadheading gardenias. By being a little bit heavy-handed handed you won't harm your plant or thwart growth or blooming, quite the opposite, it will only return with even more of its pretty white spiral flowers and fill your garden with perfume.

Firstly, ensure your secateurs are clean. One of the most common deadheading mistakes is to skip this step and accidentally transfer diseases to your beloved plants.

Identify any spent blooms, looking for any wilting, browning, or limp flowers that are looking very sorry for themselves. Snip off the entire spent bloom just above a leaf set.

You can collect the spent flower heads in a bucket and add them to your compost bin. Or, instead of being composted, you can let them drop on top of the soil, and they will gently rot down into a mulch, and will add nutrients back into the soil.

Crucially, you must thoroughly water your plant after deadheading. If you are deadheading in spring, it is worth feeding your plant with fertilizer; if you are deadheading in summer, simply water thoroughly.

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It's also worth bearing in mind that gardenias like coffee grounds, as coffee grounds work as a mild, slow-release feed. You can apply this to the soil once a fortnight throughout summer to help give your gardenia all the nutrients it needs for yet more flowers.

Over the years I’ve worked as a professional gardener, I have clocked up hundreds of hours pruning. From rambling rose pergolas that stretch on and on, to fragrant wisteria vines clinging to the side of a house.

And, if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it is that sharp tools make all the difference. Indeed, getting into the habit of cleaning and sharpening pruning shears every few weeks is transformative (plus, it is what all the pro gardeners do on a regular basis).

There are plenty of sharpening tools out there, but the Okatsune sharpening stone for pruners, available via Amazon, is one that stands out – and the reviews prove it. So, before you bin your old loppers or secateurs, why not give them a second chance... you might be surprised by the result.

What are people saying about the Okatsune sharpening stone?

Many gardeners are impressed with the utility of this product. Several Amazon reviews highlight how effective this Okatsune sharpening stone is, working even on older, neglected essential pruning tools and rusty tools.

One five-star review in March 2025 stated that: 'The length makes it perfect for angular and corner usage.'

Another five-star review from July 2024 said: 'It's slender, so you can hold it in your hand and sharpen quickly; it feels moist and is easy to use even for beginners.'

Other reviews mention not only how simple this essential gardening tool is, but also how it can be used for a range of pruners, including loppers, shears, secateurs and scissors.

However, one three-star review, recorded in May 2025, commented that while it is effective, 'this whetstone is quite soft, so it wears out quickly.'

Some other reviews agreed, mentioning the softness of the stone, with indentations and marking visible, wondering how long it will last for.

So, while the reviews are overwhelmingly positive, it is important to consider that this sharpening stone might not last forever, suffering from wear and tear, gradually losing effectiveness as you sharpen your tools.

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How to use a sharpening stone

Using a sharpening stone is incredibly easy. To begin, it is crucial to learn how to clean pruning shears and secateurs, using soapy warm water. Then, dry thoroughly, using an old rag from the garden shed.

Holding the pruners steady, run the stone along the bevelled edge of the blade.

I always suggest following the curve and the angle of the blade, in a swooping motion, using smooth, even strokes, working from base to tip.

Depending on the state of your blades, five or so passes might do it. Although if you blades are in a poor quality, you might need to keep going for a minute or so.

Then, when you are happy, flip and lightly buff the flat side to remove any uneven bits or burrs.

A word of caution. Do not touch the sharpened blade. It will be incredible sharp, and can cause harm even with a light touch.

Finally, wipe clean with a damp rag. Then, I tend to dab a small amount of camellia oil, available from Amazon, lightly over the blades, to lubricate and protect steel blades from rusting.

So, whether you are pruning ninebark or pruning red twig dogwoods, or anything else for that matter, taking the time to sharpen your tools can really make this a far easier (and more enjoyable) experience.

For more garden maintenance information, see our guide on how to prevent pruning shears from rusting, and keep your tools in tip-top shape this year.

No summer garden is complete without sweet peas. With super-abundant, delicate flowers with a heavenly perfume, they are addictive to grow, not least for their cut-flower potential, filling our homes with armfuls of frilled and fragrant blooms all summer long.

Learning how to grow sweet peas couldn't be more straightforward. They're strong, long-flowering and highly productive plants, and for intense scent and beauty, you cannot beat them. The main thing to bear in mind is that they are cut-and-come-again flowers, and to prolong your sweet pea crops, they need to be picked regularly.

Here, we explain how picking at regular intervals will keep your plants flowering right through summer and into fall.

Is it essential to deadhead sweet peas?

The short answer to this question is, if you want a proliferation of pretty sweet pea flowers, yes, you must pick or 'deadhead' your sweet peas.

Usually, with deadheading, you are keeping your eyes out for spent flowers (flowers which are coming to the end of their life). However, when it comes to sweet peas, it's best not to let the flowers come to the end of their life; you want to pick them off beforehand.

As we hurtle into summer and temperatures spike, sweet peas concentrate their energy into producing seeds and stop concerning themselves with producing any flowers. Sweet peas are flowering annuals, and as such, once seeds develop, they tell the plant that its work is done, and the plant starts to die back.

We want to delay that process, so as to have more flowers all summer long, thus maximise the flowers and minimise the seeds.

Regular picking will encourage more flowers and prevent plants from setting seed. You'll also have a steady supply of cut flowers for the house, which is a total joy to the senses.

You should also remove any spent flowers and seed pods that have started to form at the same time.

When to pick and deadhead sweet peas

The best course of action is to harvest flowers as often as you can all summer long to keep the plants producing more pretty flowers.

Once a week should be sufficient, but you may find that at their peak, you’ll need to pick and deadhead every couple of days. Whatever happens, keep a close eye on them to prevent them from producing seeds.

A good rule of thumb? Whenever you are in the garden, secateurs in hand, and you see some sweet pea flowers, don't be afraid to cut them; they won't suffer from it, they will only go on to produce more and more flowers. As the flowers open, keep cutting, and never leave seeds to develop on the plants.

How to deadhead sweet peas

Happily, the way to cut back sweet peas is the same for all sweet pea varieties.

Cut back as far along the stem as possible, and don't leave any stubs. Using garden snips for this is better than using your fingers, so you leave a clean cut, which will prevent damage to the plant.

You can leave any new and emerging flower buds, so your plant won't be bare of flowers for long. However, if you find any pods of seeds, remove them immediately. You can always remove the seeds from the pods and dry them indoors, so you can use them to propagate next year's sweet peas.

Though it is best to prevent your sweet peas from going to seed as much as possible by picking before seed production sets in.

After picking your sweet peas, be sure to water the plants thoroughly, and don't let them dry out.

If you are finding that your sweet peas are too leggy and getting very lofty without producing many or any flowers, cut up to half the leaves off the plant, and remove as many tendrils as you like.

To prevent this in the future, pinch out emerging tips to encourage side growth when the plants are fairly young, about 10cm tall. Find the central growing tip and pinch it between your finger and thumb. This will encourage the plant to grow out rather than up.

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Remember that sweet peas want to grow up, so for happy and healthy plants, it is worth planting them against a trellis or making a sweet pea teepee, so they can climb and ramble in all their glory.

Ninebark, so-named for its distinctive peeling bark, is a shrub that often needs regular, light pruning to appear at its best. It can look stylish when unpruned, but there is a risk of it getting oversized, unattractive, or even collapsing if left untouched for too many years.

Ninebark shrubs can reach up to ten feet tall and six feet wide, depending on the variety. They are fast-growing, so regular pruning ensures any ninebark shrub remains healthy and vigorous. As they mature, older specimens can be selectively pruned for the best displays, or you can even rejuvenate neglected ninebark to look good again.

If you grow ninebark and want to learn more about pruning, this guide covers all you need to know. We deep-dive into when and how to prune ninebark shrubs, with expert tips so you can confidently prune and have healthy, thriving plants.

Do you need to prune ninebark?

Multi-stemmed flowering shrubs like ninebark often benefit from regular light pruning, which keeps them attractive and in good health. Ideally, it means trimming annually or at least every other year.

However, how often you prune your ninebark may depend on how you grow it.

Stacey Hirvela, experienced gardener and co-host of Gardening Simplified, claims that a ninebark bush can get ‘little pruning’ and still look great.

‘I prefer them unpruned,’ she admits. ‘Their long branches start to arch over gracefully, but if they are pruned, they look more upright. But people grow ninebark as a trimmed hedge, or simply trim it every year to keep it neater and less wild-feeling.’

Alternatively, Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery adopts the latter approach, saying: ‘I recommend annual maintenance to thin out older branches and improve air circulation.’

When to prune ninebark

Whether you do little or regular trimming, understanding the correct time to prune ninebark ensures your shrubs remain healthy and attractive. It helps you avoid making any shrub pruning mistakes that you’ll live to regret.

The best time to prune ninebark is after it has finished flowering, in late spring or early summer. This allows lots of time for the plant to develop new buds for next year’s display.

Trimming in early spring is possible, but it will result in the removal of flower buds, affecting the display for that season. For example, if you are renovating an older ninebark and don’t mind missing out on a year of flowers, then late winter or early spring is an ideal window to prune.

Don’t leave post-flowering trimming too long, though. Cutting back shrubs from late summer onwards is risky because it encourages a late flush of growth that is likely to get damaged by cold winter temperatures.

How to prune ninebark

‘Ninebark shrubs typically need light to moderate pruning to maintain their shape and encourage healthy growth,’ claims Nikki Bruner. And this can be easily achieved through regular trimming with common pruning tools, such as a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or loppers.

The first step to prune ninebark is to assess the shrub and remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches completely. Also, look for any branches that are crossing and remove them. Crossing branches rub together and create entry points for pests and diseases.

Then, look for overcrowded areas of growth and thin out the weaker shoots. This helps improve air circulation and light penetration into the shrub, which keeps it healthy and avoids diseases such as powdery mildew.

Once spindly growth is removed, focus on the form. Lightly shape the shrub to get the look you want, ensuring to always trim back to a branchlet or set of leaves, and regularly take a step back to assess the appearance.

Stacey Hirvela recommends an extra pruning stage for mature ninebark shrubs. She says: ‘Older specimens (say 5-7+ years) will benefit from their oldest wood being removed every couple of years to ensure that all the growth is vigorous and productive.’

To do so, cut back up to a third of the oldest wood to ground level. This stimulates new, more vigorous growth that will flower better in the years to come.

Ninebark can tolerate harder pruning, but observe the one-third pruning rule and don’t get carried away when doing selective rather than rejuvenate pruning.

Can you hard prune ninebark?

‘Yes, ninebark shrubs can tolerate hard pruning,’ says Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery. ‘It's common to do this to rejuvenate the plant and restore overgrowth or leggy growth.’

If you wish to rejuvenate an older shrub and hard prune ninebark, it is best to trim in late winter or early spring. To do so, use a pair of loppers and cut back all the stems to 4-6 inches from the base.

This pruning technique sacrifices a year of blooms, but will stimulate new growth and reward you with a smaller, nicer-looking shrub.

However, it is not recommended to do this with all spring-flowering shrubs. For example, witch hazel is a shrub to never hard prune, as it can get extremely stressed and die from being cut back to ground level.

Always do research and check whether hard pruning is a pruning mistake or not for any particular shrubs.

FAQs

Can I prune ninebark in the fall?

No, it is not advisable to prune ninebark in the fall. The new growth that appears post-pruning is vulnerable to frost damage in winter and can leave the shrub more susceptible to pests and diseases. The ideal time to prune ninebark is in late spring or early summer after flowering, though you can trim in early spring too.

Ninebark is among the best shrubs or trees with attractive bark, and such plants make intriguing additions to any garden. If you are after other statement plants that will impress with distinctive bark, this guide to trees with unusual bark offers 10 great options to consider.

Love it or loathe it, pruning is usually a prerequisite for plants to ensure they remain neat, healthy, and put on the best display year after year. If you sit firmly on the loath-it side, or just fancy something more low-maintenance, some plants that don’t need pruning will continue to put on a great show with little work.

We want to showcase some of these reliable, fuss-free plants here. If you are new to gardening or an anxious gardener, you don’t need to worry about pruning them at the wrong time of year or not pruning them correctly, as these plants need little or no pruning at all.

Even if you are an experienced hand at pruning, adding such low-maintenance shrubs or perennials means you can relax knowing these plants don’t need pruning but will dependably flower and impress without needing lots of rigorous trimming.

Plants that don’t need pruning – is it too good to be true?

When we say plants that don’t need pruning, what exactly does that mean? It means the plants don’t need regular annual trimming to look good and put on a great display. They can be left for potentially years without needing any attention and will still perform.

There may be times when they do need pruning, for example, to remove dead, damaged, or diseased parts to keep it healthy or if it starts to outgrow its space. However, these are rare trimming tasks rather than an essential part of regular upkeep.

With all that in mind, I used my years as a professional gardener in large, historic public gardens and spoke to some experienced gardeners to put together this list of five plants that don’t need pruning.

1. Spirea

Spiraea, or spirea, are known across the board as low-maintenance fragrant shrubs. There are spirea varieties that can grow as low as US hardiness zone 3 and provide long seasons of interest, with stunning foliage and long-lasting, beautiful blooms.

If you are after a spirea that needs little to no pruning, Amy Martin, landscape designer and the founder of Plant and Bloom Design Studio, recommends the Double Play Doozie Spirea.

‘If you want nonstop color with no fuss, Double Play Doozie Spirea is your shrub. It keeps its neat, mounded shape without a single snip of the shears and puts on a vibrant flower show from early summer right up until frost,’ says Amy.

‘Since it’s a seedless and non-invasive variety, you don’t have to worry about unwanted spreading, and there's absolutely no deadheading needed to keep the blooms coming.’

This long-blooming shrub reaches only 2-3 feet tall and wide, and is suitable for flower borders or island beds. If you are after a dependable shrub that thrives on neglect and will perform without a lot of attention, this fits the bill.

Double Play Doozie Spirea live shrubs are available at Amazon

2. American arborvitae

Thuja, or American arborvitae, is an easy-to-grow, dwarf conifer shrub that reaches up to two feet tall and wide and can be grown in borders, even in small gardens, or in container gardens.

If you are after a low-maintenance dwarf evergreen to add to your yard, Amy Martin hails Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae as one of her particular favorites. She says: ‘This little golden globe is one of my go-to evergreens for small spaces and evergreen structure.

‘Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae maintains a perfect rounded shape all on its own- no clipping or shaping required – which makes it a dream for low-maintenance gardeners. The soft, golden foliage brings cheerful year-round color to the front of the house and borders.

‘As a North American native plant, it’s an easy favorite for low-maintenance landscapes.’

Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae is cold hardy down to US hardiness zone 3 and will thrive best in full sun, although it can tolerate partial shade. However, arborvitae risk becoming leggy in shadier locations, particularly if they receive less than four hours of sun per day.

Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae live shrubs are available at Amazon

3. Yucca

Hardy types of yucca, such as Yucca filamentosa, thrive in lots of sunshine and are drought-tolerant perennials ideal for xeriscaping and dry climates. However, they are also surprisingly frost-hardy plants that can be grown outdoors down to temperatures as low as 10°F.

Kathy Jentz, gardening author and GardenDC Podcast host, hails Yucca filamentosa as a low-maintenance and tough, hard-to-kill plant suitable for US hardiness zones 5-10.

When it comes to pruning, the good news is that yuccas generally don’t need trimming, bar to remove dead or damaged leaves.

‘In early summer, this broadleaf evergreen shrub puts up a tall flower spike that is striking and also a pollinator magnet,’ says Kathy. ‘There is the straight green species as well as several variegated forms available. The most popular of the variegated cultivars is ‘Color Guard’.

‘Yucca need no fertilizing or extra watering. Plus, they are rabbit- and deer-resistant. They are a great choice for along street edges as they are also salt spray- and pollution-resistant.’

If you live in a cooler climate, you can overwinter outdoor yuccas by protecting the roots with a few inches of mulch or covering the plant with a burlap covering.

You can get live Yucca filamentosa plants at Nature Hills

4. Sunjoy Todo Barberry

This dwarf barberry reaches only two feet tall and can retain its shape without regular trimming. If you are after a compact shrub that dazzles with distinctive deep purple-black foliage, the Sunjoy Todo will really stand out against other shrubs and perennials.

Offering year-round interest, it is semi-evergreen in many climates and has gold flowers in spring. And it is a fantastic shrub for fall berries, with its seedless red berries coming to the fore in fall.

Pruning barberry is often required post-flowering, as some species are classed as invasive plants. However, as this is a sterile barberry, it doesn’t even need trimming to control the spread. Seeing as though barberries have notoriously sharp spikes and require thornproof gardening gloves, the less you need to prune, the better.

Plant a Sunjoy Todo barberry in a sunny spot that gets six hours or more of daylight, and it will thrive. As well as a perfect specimen shrub, it can also work as a short hedging plant that is deer-resistant.

You can get Sunjoy Todo Barberry live shrubs at Amazon

5. Cacti and succulents

If you live in an arid climate and want to plan a dry garden, then cactus and succulents are fantastic additions for any drought-tolerant landscaping ideas. They look visually impressive, with stunning form and texture, and can be used in a wide range of designs.

You can get types of succulents and cacti in a range of shapes and sizes, from tall columnar specimens to short mounded groundcover plants, and different varieties come with varying leaf shapes and shades of green, grey, and blue.

When you are landscaping with succulents and cacti, they tend to be low-maintenance plants that don’t need pruning. Many people say you should never prune cactus; however, that is not strictly true.

The plants do not require regular pruning or shaping, but they may need some attention if they are damaged or have grown so large that they have become unstable and risk toppling.

For more low-maintenance plants that can add structure to a garden, there are many evergreen shrubs you can plant that don’t require lots of attention or pruning. For inspiration, this guide to evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect features five plants that offer easy solutions for year-round interest.

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