We have officially entered fall, but in many parts of the US, mild temperatures can continue for a few more weeks. And while some summer plants are beginning to slow down, lantana is usually still putting on a rather remarkable show, covered in clusters of brilliantly colored flowers that seem determined to keep summer going for just a little bit longer.

I particularly like the fiery varieties at this time of year. ‘Dallas Red’, typically grown in zones 8 to 11, produces vibrant clusters of orange and red flowers that provide a welcome pop of color as the rest of the yard begins its gradual transition into fall. After months of growth, however, even the toughest lantana can benefit from a little attention to keep it looking its best.

Knowing how to grow lantana and what to do with lantana in October will depend largely on where you live. In warmer regions, plants can have weeks or even months of flowering still to come, whereas gardeners farther north might already be thinking about the first frost and whether to overwinter container-grown plants. And, if you want to add more late-season color to your yard, its not too late, as live lantana plants are available from Walmart.

1. Watering

October can be deceptive when it comes to watering. Mornings might feel noticeably cooler in northerly regions, but a lantana sitting in full sun can still dry out remarkably quickly by the end of a warm day, particularly when growing in pots by the front door, for example.

Lantana is fairly drought-tolerant perennial once established, so plants growing in the ground shouldn't need constant attention.

As mentioned, however, container-grown lantana will need checking more regularly. Push a finger into the potting mix and water thoroughly if it feels dry, allowing excess water to escape from the drainage holes. As temperatures fall, growth will begin to slow and you can gradually reduce watering accordingly.

For easy watering, try this garden hose from Walmart.

2. Deadheading

A quick tidy of your lantana plants every week or so will keep plants looking much fresher.

Using clean pruners, snip off spent flower clusters just above a healthy pair of leaves. Try these Felco pruners from Walmart if you need a new pair.

There is another good reason to do this. Lantana camara is considered one of the most invasive species in the world. Birds can spread the seeds contained in its berries, so, by removing spent blooms before berries develop can help to limit unwanted self-seeding in your yard and beyond.

Deadheading isn't essential for all modern lantana varieties however. For example, 'New Gold' is totally sterile cultivar.

'New Gold' live lantana plants can be ordered via Amazon now.

3. Pruning

Lantana in October can be looking a little unruly. After an entire summer of growth, long stems can sprawl across paths, flop over the sides of containers or begin to muscle in on neighboring plants.

You can shorten particularly long or wayward stems, cutting just above a healthy pair of leaves to encourage a neater shape.

Keep this fairly restrained, however. October isn't the time for a dramatic renovation prune, particularly in regions like zone 4 where cooler weather is only a few weeks away.

4. Stop feeding

During spring and summer, a container-grown lantana can benefit from occasional feeding to support all that vigorous growth and flowering, but there comes a point when encouraging more growth does more harm than good. That point is now.

In warmer regions, you might continue to use feed for a few weeks yet, particularly if plants are still growing well. But, in cooler zones, I would stop feeding.

5. Think about Overwintering

What happens next depends very much on where you garden. In warmer regions (like zone 10), lantana can behave as a perennial, surviving winter outdoors and keeping much of its green growth.

In colder zones, however, the first hard frost will usually spell the end for plants left outside. This is no bad thing if you treat lantana as an annual, of course.

But, if your lantana is growing in a container, October is a good time to decide whether you want to overwinter it. Before bringing any plant indoors to a greenhouse, you want to give the leaves and stems a thorough inspection. Whiteflies and spider mites can easily go unnoticed outside, and the last thing you want is to introduce them to sheltered greenhouse.

What to Shop

October doesn't have to signal the end of flowers in the yard. While lantana can keep warmer gardens filled with color well into fall, there are plenty of hardy perennials that are only just reaching their peak.

For another late-season job, see our guide to caring for asters in September, with simple tips to keep plants healthy and flowering for as long as possible.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If there's one houseplant task to get right in fall, it's watering. Cooler temperatures and lower sunlight levels mean soil is drying out much slower this season, ultimately meaning your plants need less watering.

It's an essential part of fall houseplant care, where our precious indoor plants are susceptible to root rot, pest damage, and fungal diseases from too much water. At the same time, you don't want to pull back on watering altogether. Allowing plants to sit in drought through fall can cause dehydration and cause them to fade away.

Striking the balance can be tricky to figure out, but with the right houseplant care kit to hand you'll soon master this skill. Here, I talk through everything you need to know about identifying when to water your plants, how to do it, and the tools I often rely on to avoid watering mistakes this season (this Amazon soil moisture meter is a good place to start).

When to Water Houseplants in Fall

The best lesson I ever learned about watering houseplants is that you should abandon a set schedule. Environmental and seasonal factors constantly change how frequently houseplant soil is drying out and therefore how much water your plant needs. Instead, I always check the soil before picking up my watering can.

You can either use a soil moisture meter (which is also available from Walmart) or feel the soil with your finger. The crucial part is to not trust the moisture level of soil surface only, you need to check how wet the soil is further down to determine whether the roots have access to moisture.

In fact, it's a common fall problem for houseplant soil to form a crust on the surface, generally from indoor heating drying it out too quickly. It doesn't necessarily mean the soil below is dry and there may actually be moisture trapped beneath. It can also be the result of a build-up of salts and minerals from tap water and summer fertilizer.

If this is the case, I recommend removing the top layer, flushing the soil, and applying a fresh top layer. You may also want to consider not using tap water for houseplants to avoid this happening again.

Generally speaking, you should water houseplants once the top 1-2 inches have dried out. However, I encourage doing some deeper research into the specific needs of your plants – thirsty houseplants will need much more water than those who tolerate drought, like succulents and cacti.

How to Water Houseplants in Fall

There are a few methods you can use to water houseplants in fall.

Of course, you can use a houseplant watering can (one like this from Amazon with a narrow spout helps reach the base of your plants). Though, this is often the method most likely to result in overwatering.

Bottom watering houseplants is more effective in terms of hydrating plant roots without oversaturating them. This requires a plant pot with a saucer (like this ceramic one from Wayfair), where plants soak up just as much water as needed. A self-watering planter has a space for a reservoir which works in the same way (Amazon has sets of self-watering planters so you can use them for your entire indoor garden).

You can also use the deep watering method, soaking houseplants in a sink for 20 minutes before allowing them to drain. In fall, you'll only need to do this every other week. This will allow houseplants to fully hydrate, but take care not to do this with the houseplants most susceptible to root rot – with soil drying out slowly this season, too much water in the pot can put them at risk.

There are also some watering gadgets that can help keep houseplants watered to the right level in fall. A houseplant irrigation system (like this from Amazon) will water plants when it detects dry soil, so you don't have to remember to.

Self-watering spikes (like these from Walmart) are also handy, though I would recommend these for summer more so than fall. They provide a gradual release of moisture, ensuring plants don't dry out.

What to Shop

Alongside adjusting watering, there are indoor plant jobs many gardeners forget to do in fall. This includes checking underneath foliage for pests and moving houseplants away from heat sources.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

As the days get shorter and colder, my motivation starts to nosedive. By the end of a long day, the last thing I want to do is rummage through the fridge trying to work out what to cook.

That’s why, ahead of peak hosting season, I’m adopting the meal-prep bin system to organize a refrigerator. This simple hack uses inexpensive acrylic fridge bins from Amazon to group the ingredients for each meal together, making everything I need easy to find and ready to go.

It’s a quick way to make midweek cooking feel almost effortless, while keeping meal prep and hosting more streamlined when my brain is already feeling cluttered.

When getting a kitchen ready for hosting, decluttering is first on everyone's minds. However, how you organize your kitchen can have a bigger impact.

The meal-prep bin system is simple. Start with clear, lidded plastic bins, such as the Vtopmart bins from Amazon, that are large enough to hold several ingredients. When you unpack your weekly grocery shop, group the ingredients for each meal together in its own bin. For a bolognese, for example, I’ll put the ground beef, garlic, tomato paste, and other ingredients together. For fajitas, I’ll group the chicken with the bell peppers and anything else I’ll need.

That way, when I’m tired at the end of a long day, getting dinner started is as simple as pulling out the right bin and taking it to the prep area. There’s no hunting through the fridge for ingredients and no standing around trying to decide what to cook, the meal is already planned, portioned, and ready to go.

It is a quick hack loved by professional organizers for keeping a fridge organized too. 'Deep bins help you group similar items, like snacks, produce, or condiments, and prevent them from getting lost in the back of the fridge, since you can simply slide the bin closer to you to reach whatever is in the back,' says Julia Foulk, founder at The Organizing Method. 'They’re ideal for maximizing space and keeping everything easily accessible. Stackable containers then allow you to maximize vertical space, making it possible to store more without cluttering each shelf.'

The trick works particularly well when hosting, too. You can group ingredients by course, making it simple to prep appetizers, entrées, and desserts without a jumble of ingredients taking over your countertops, especially if you have decluttered a fridge in advance, too.

Because the bins are made from clear acrylic, you can see everything at a glance, helping prevent forgotten ingredients from going to waste while making it easy to keep track of what you have on hand. They’re also simple to wipe clean between meals, making restocking and resetting the fridge wonderfully straightforward.

What Else to Shop For Meal Prep

To help you create more space in your fridge for holiday entertaining and make the most of your meal prep, I’ve curated a selection of the best fridge organizers for a more streamlined kitchen.

All prices correct at the time of publication.

To help make the rest of your hosting experience as smooth as possible, consider creating a hosting closet so everything you need is to hand when your guests arrive.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

That tricky ground under trees presents so many challenges. Firstly, there's shade to contend with, all year round if evergreen trees are involved. Then, with all those roots competing for nutrients and water there's little left for anything else. Add to that the fact that a tree's canopy is a very effective umbrella, keeping rainwater from reaching the soil below and you have a rather inhospitable spot for most plants.

Nevertheless, there are options. And one of the best and most interesting planting solutions is heuchera. Also known as coral bells, I love these tough ground cover plants for their year-round foliage, which comes in a rainbow of shades, from deep purple-black to pale apricot, zesty lime green, and claret. An added bonus are the delicate little flower spikes they send up over summer.

While heuchera is without a double one of the best plants for growing under trees, that doesn't mean narrowing down your selection will be easy. If I had to play favorites with heucheras, I might have to opt for 'Dressed Up Bal Gown' from Plant Addicts. With its ruffled, scalloped leaves in chartreuse green, it's far from the retiring plant personalities we usually associate with foliage plants. Preferring a spot in light rather than deep shade, it's one I nestle in at the further reaches of my tree canopies, where it will brighten up the scene. Here I share more of my top heuchera picks, and plenty of practical tips for planting and growing.

How To Plant Heucheras Under Trees

There's no denying it, planting under trees can be a tough job. When you're digging holes for your new heucheras, you need to find the gaps between the roots without causing damage to the tree, which can be tricky and time consuming.

I recommend arming yourself with all the comforts of the gardening world before you begin. Good padding, in the form of this Burgon & Ball kneeler from Lowes is vital, as is a small, sharp tool like the stainless steel transplanter from Burpee.

If you're tackling a large planting project in quite deep shade near to mature trees, in my experience the ground can be dry and hard. In which case, a garden auger drill bit, available at Amazon, could be useful. You can attach it to a cordless drill for some powerful, targeted help with hole-digging (as always, proceed with caution – you still need to find the gaps in the roots rather than drill through them!).

A quick note on tree roots and which will tolerate a degree of disturbance. Every tree is different, so do check before you dig. Acers, for example, tend to resent any kind of root disturbance as they have such an intricate and relatively shallow system. Those with deeper roots tolerate more planting, closer to the tree itself.

At this time of year it's a good idea to soak your planting areas well beforehand. Damp soil is so much easier to dig than rock-hard. Then find your planting spaces and dig out holes a little larger than the heucheras you're going to put in, twice the width and depth ideally. If you do this, you can add plenty of rich organic matter to the planting hole, which will improve conditions for your plants. You could use homemade leaf mould, compost or a bagged product.

Whichever heuchera varieties you choose, make sure you plant them at the same depth as they were at in their nursery pots, with the crown of the plant sitting on the surface. Water in really well and keep a good eye on moisture levels at least during their first year, and over summer.

How To Choose The Best Heucheras For Your Space

Apart from being some of the most colorful ground cover plants money can buy, heucheras are also tough, resilient and low maintenance. The majority are also evergreen, so while the rest of the backyard is tailing off in fall, coral bells really come into their own, brightening everything up brilliantly at ground level.

I like to make use of heucheras at this time of year to pick out more fall colors elsewhere: the rich reds and oranges of sorbus berries (one of the best trees for fall color), firethorn and crab apples, for example. Underplanted with similar toned heucheras, they really shine.

Under the light, deciduous branches of trees like sorbus and crab apples, the majority of heucheras will do just fine. When trees are larger and the shade canopy denser, you'll need to pick your varieties carefully, as not all heucheras do well in deeper shade. As a general rule of thumb, the darker the leaves, the more shade tolerant the heuchera.

Ongoing heuchera care is minimal. When learning how to care for heucheras, an important aspect is mulching annually in spring. Then prune out any old leaves and flower stems as they appear, and every few years divide and replant in early fall to keep them vigorous and healthy.

The Best Heuchera Varieties

'Caramel'
This is one for light shade, perhaps under a deciduous tree with similarly colored fall foliage, like a crab apple, amelanchier or Persion ironwood. The burnished bark of Prunus serrula is a match made in heaven. Also try planting in groups with other coral bells in deep wine and mahogany shades for a rich, harmonious tapestry of color.
USDA Zones 4-9
Buy Heuchera 'caramel' at Plant Addicts

'Plum Pudding'
With silvered plum-purple foliage, this is a dark, shade-tolerant heuchera that will brighten up a gloomy spot under a tree. Use it in groups for impact, paired perhaps with a white periwinkle or astrantia to pick out the silvering on the leaves. The rich pink blossom of a cherry tree in spring is also a lovely combination.
USDA Zones 4-9
Buy Heuchera 'Plum Pudding' at Garden Goods Direct

'Berry Smoothie'
Gorgeous raspberry-colored foliage that deepens to burgundy in fall. Plant it in shade or semi shade, although it'll have more flowers with higher light levels. It has a full, mounded shape and is very easygoing. I particularly love it under pink-berried rowan trees, amelanchier, cherries and North American redbud (Cercis).
USDA Zones 4-9
Shop Heuchera 'Berry Smoothie' at Nature Hills Nursery

'Autumn Bride'
One of the larger varieties, growing to around 3ft (45cm) in height and spread. 'Autumn Bride' is one of the best for dry shade, although do still add some organic matter to help it along when planting. The leaves are less showy than others, but its fresh green is always welcome under trees, where it's evergreen in milder winters.
Buy Heuchera 'Autumn Bridge' at Garden Goods Direct

What to Shop

Whether you're planning a garden for the first time or refreshing the space under some trees, I do recommend you take a look at lovely, low-maintenance coral bells, or heucheras.

They really are some of the most obliging and constantly colorful perennials available. Take your time picking your favorite varieties and you'll be rewarded for years to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There is a familiar shorthand for a restful bedroom: reach for a pale blue, soft gray, or cool green and let the color do the calming. Yet serenity cannot be selected from a paint chart by temperature alone. A cool shade can feel soothing, but it can just as readily turn chilly, flat or clinical once it meets the room’s particular light, finishes and furniture.

The bedroom color mistake, designers agree, is not choosing a cool color; it is choosing one on the assumption that cool automatically means calm. Warm whites, mineral neutrals, earthy pinks and even ochres, browns and muted reds can be every bit as restful. What matters is nuance: the undertone, the saturation, the light at different hours, and the way the whole room works together.

The Bedroom Color Mistake Designers See Again and Again

A paint chip is never the whole story. In a bright showroom, a blue-gray might appear crisp and composed; on the walls of a north-facing bedroom, it may read steely by afternoon and dull after dark. Pair it with brilliant-white trim and cool bulbs, and the effect can be closer to a clinic than a rest-inducing retreat.

‘Cool tones can go from serene to waiting room surprisingly quickly,’ says Tamara Kaye-Honey, creative director and principal designer of House of Honey. ‘It usually happens when the color is too blue, too clean, or lacks enough warmth and depth to balance the room’s natural light.’ She is not opposed to cool hues, but favors versions that feel ‘a little dirty, moody or unexpected,’ with gray, green or earthy undertones rather than an icy cast.

Amanda Leigh and Taylor Hahn of House of Rolison often see the problem in developer-led interiors, where true whites and cooler neutrals form a bright shell but bear little relationship to the woods, textiles, art and furniture inside it. ‘That disconnect is often what makes a space feel more like a building than a home,’ they explain. Under the 2700K lighting they typically specify, a markedly cool wall can look bluer while every warm element looks more yellow, visually dividing the room.

The room’s orientation can amplify the effect. Ali Childs, founder of Studio Alexandra, notes that a clean blue or gray can feel especially stark in a north-facing bedroom when it is teamed with brilliant-white woodwork and other cool finishes. Sam Goold and Katie Bolton of Danebury Design Studio make the same observation: clean whites, pale neutrals and gray-blues can become flat in limited natural light, particularly on a gloomy afternoon or in the evening.

This is not an argument for banishing blue or green. Evan Shane Krenzien and Pierce Jordan of Shane & Pierce use what they call ‘warm blues,’ including Portola Paints’ ‘Sirene’, whose depth makes it enveloping rather than stiff. Goold and Bolton similarly look for enough depth and ‘muddiness’ to make blues and greens comforting. The distinction is subtle but important: calm comes from the character of the color, not its category.

Cool Colors Aren’t the Only Way to Create a Calming Bedroom

Warmth does not have to mean high energy. The most restful warm shades tend to be softened, desaturated, or grounded with brown, gray, yellow or red, giving them complexity without visual noise. Think creamy white rather than optic white; mushroom instead of silver-gray; plaster pink in place of candy pink. Clay, tobacco, ochre, warm stone and mossy green can all create a sense of shelter.

Kirsten Blazek of A1000xBetter gravitates toward colors drawn from nature, particularly ochres, rusts and rich, brown-based greens. In lighter rooms, she values a creamy off-white such as Dunn-Edwards ‘Historic White’: soft and inviting, without pulling too strongly toward another color. Jennifer Sucher, founder and lead designer of Sucher Studios, often turns to a desaturated peachy pink. She describes its radiance as a ‘warm hug,’ particularly welcome in places with cold weather and gray skies.

Pink’s calming potential is a recurring theme, provided it is earthy rather than saccharine. House of Honey’s favorites include Farrow & Ball ‘Setting Plaster’ and ‘Dead Salmon’, while Studio Alexandra used Edward Bulmer ‘Rose Pink’ at its Vivian Road project for the shade’s soft, barely pink warmth. In a small, north-facing bedroom, Danebury chose Edward Bulmer ‘Clove’, a shade the studio calls a ‘tomboy pink’: earthy enough to sit comfortably beside a dark patterned headboard, pictures and layered textiles.

Ochre can be equally gentle. In the guest bedroom of its Pasadena Craftsman project, Electric Bowery used Benjamin Moore ‘Citrine’ as a sunny but soothing backdrop to natural bedding and vintage pieces. Deeper earth tones can work almost like neutrals, too. House of Rolison recommends Benjamin Moore ‘Barista’ for an enveloping brown, ‘Nicolson Red’ for a muted historic red, and ‘Mohegan Sage’ for a subdued green. Its go-to light neutral, Benjamin Moore ‘Dulce de Leche’, has enough pigment to connect naturally with wood, stone, plaster and aged materials without the sterility of true white.

Dark does not mean disruptive, either. Jessica Blue of Jessica Blue Interiors likes to color-drench bedrooms from ‘head to toe’ in shades ranging from blues and greens to flesh tones, warm grays and marigolds. Benjamin Moore ‘Aegean Teal’ and Sherwin-Williams ‘Arugula’ are among her top choices. Shane & Pierce suggests Portola Paints ‘Costes’ for an earthy, moody effect, or ‘La Catedral’ and ‘Rustica’ for darker rooms. A deep shade can allow a bedroom to become intimate rather than forcing it to look bigger and brighter.

It’s All About the Undertones

Two paints with the same broad label can behave like entirely different colors. A white may carry blue-gray undertones that sharpen in cool daylight, or creamy yellow or pink notes that soften beside timber and linen. One beige can glow gently; another can tip toward green or gray. The undertone is the quiet influence determining what the eye actually sees once the room is furnished.

‘Undertones are the entire plot,’ says Kaye-Honey. ‘A gray can suddenly go lavender, a beige can go yellow, and a white can become aggressively blue.’ Her advice is to paint large samples in the room, then inspect them in morning light, afternoon light and lamplight. A bedroom has multiple personalities, and the color must work with all of them.

House of Rolison assesses paint beside flooring, wood species, stone, upholstery and window treatments, and under the project’s specified artificial lighting. ‘We want to know what that color is going to do at eight o’clock at night when the natural light is gone,’ the designers say. A cool wall beside something very warm can exaggerate both, making blue look bluer and yellow look yellower.

For Sucher, slightly green undertones make blue feel aged and lived-in; orange tempers pink’s nursery associations; rusty brown makes burgundy less jewel-like; and yellow gives green warmth. Blazek takes a different but compatible approach, searching for ‘true colors’ that remain relatively consistent as light and neighboring shades change. Both demonstrate why the descriptive name on the can matters less than testing the color in context.

Alexandra Azat, founder and principal of Plaster & Patina, extends the idea beyond a single paint. High contrast creates visual tension by continually pulling the eye toward abrupt transitions. Tone-on-tone palettes and color drenching soften those boundaries, allowing the eye to move more easily around the room. Her preferred restful neutrals take their cues from outdoors: warm browns, stone hues and moody creams such as Farrow & Ball ‘Stony Ground’ and ‘Oxford Stone’.

The Colors Designers Recommend for a Restful Bedroom

No single color family owns the idea of calm, but designers repeatedly return to nuanced colors that are difficult to define in one word. Mushroom taupe, dusty blush, muddy olive, putty and warm stone sit between familiar categories; that ambiguity gives them depth and helps them shift gracefully through the day.

For a warm base, Shane & Pierce favors Farrow & Ball ‘Joa’s White’, whose reddish undertone adds depth without reading pink, alongside Farrow & Ball ‘Off-White’ and Sherwin-Williams ‘Shoji White’. House of Rolison uses Dunn-Edwards ‘Cottage White’ when a room needs brightness and Benjamin Moore ‘Swiss Coffee’ when it needs still more, retaining warmth even as the palette approaches white.

For mineral neutrals, Childs recommends Paint & Paper Library ‘Stone III’, used at Studio Alexandra’s Hill House project to support the soft furnishings without feeling bland. Azat’s ‘Stony Ground’ and ‘Oxford Stone’ offer moodier interpretations of cream and stone. House of Honey suggests Benjamin Moore ‘Pale Oak’ or Farrow & Ball ‘Mouse’s Back’, while its deeper picks, Farrow & Ball ‘Pigeon’ and Benjamin Moore ‘Vintage Vogue’, become cocooning with soft textiles and warm lighting.

For richer color, Jessica Blue favors earthy shades with an offbeat edge: Benjamin Moore ‘Pelham Gray’, ‘Palace Ochre’ and Sherwin-Williams ‘Dried Thyme’, a sophisticated green-gray. Sucher’s options range from Benjamin Moore ‘Apricot Beige’ and ‘Richmond Green’ to Portola Paints ‘Fairview’. Danebury often returns to Edward Bulmer’s ‘Lute’, ‘Jonquil’, ‘Lilac Pink’, ‘Invisible Green’ and ‘Azurite’, several of which are available in different strengths for a quieter dose of color.

Not every warm bedroom needs painted walls. In her Montauk project, Nina Freudenberger used warm white-oak paneling as a neutral, allowing the grain and tonal variation of the wood to supply depth. It is a useful reminder that the room’s dominant color may come from a natural material rather than a paint can.

How to Make Any Bedroom Color Feel More Calming

Wall color sets a mood, but it cannot create a restful room in isolation. The best schemes are layered rather than matched: linen and wool, natural wood, an antique rug, aged metal, woven details, art and pattern all temper the painted envelope. A dark wall may need pale bedding for relief; a light wall can take deeper woods and upholstery. The push and pull gives the room dimension without making it busy.

Childs treats wall color as one layer among texture, furniture, lighting and pattern. Blazek looks for a similar level of saturation across the colors in a room, allowing different hues to feel tonal and cohesive. Jessica Blue takes a more complementary route: she might balance a blue bedroom with red or pink, then add a touch of green, uniting the mix through varied scales of pattern and tactile pieces such as a rug or hand-knit throw.

Danebury often begins not with paint but with a curtain or headboard fabric a client loves, allowing the wall color to grow from the broader decorative scheme. The studio considers the ceiling and woodwork at the same time, too: brilliant white can interrupt a nuanced wall, while matching woodwork creates an enveloping effect and a complementary neutral adds definition.

Lighting deserves equal attention. Warm, low-level sources soften color after dark and create pools of illumination rather than flattening the room beneath a single glaring bulb. Kaye-Honey layers bedside lamps, sconces and even candlelight, observing that ‘nobody wants to relax under a 4000K LED.’ The exact color temperature is only part of the answer; placing light at different heights makes the room feel intimate and useful.

Finally, allow the scheme to feel collected rather than purchased as a set. House of Rolison combines pattern, worn woods, leather, linen, wool and pieces with patina so that the room feels personal. The designers’ test for success is revealing: when the temperatures and undertones work together, you stop noticing paint, lighting, furniture and textiles as separate decisions. The bedroom simply feels settled.

That is the more useful definition of a calming bedroom. It need not be pale, cool or perfectly coordinated. It should feel comfortable at the hour you use it most, connected to the materials around it and personal enough to invite you to unwind.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Houseplants go through a seasonal shift come September, as the growing season wraps up and they prepare for winter dormancy. Chinese money plants (Pilea peperomioides) are no different and come with their own set of needs this month.

If you grow a Chinese money plant, the good news is September tasks aren't hard to do. It's all about moving your plant back indoors (if it spent summer in the garden), adjusting watering to avoid issues like root rot, and rotating it so it copes with lower light levels in fall. You can even propagate your Chinese money plant this month if it has 'pups.'

Everything you need to carry out this essential care is in our houseplant care kit collection. So, with your Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's to hand, here's what to do with a Chinese money plant in September.

1. Move It Back Indoors

It's beneficial to place houseplants outdoors in summer, allowing them to soak up sun, warmth, and the breeze. But, when temperatures start to turn in September, it's important to move houseplants back indoors so they aren't caught in the cold.

'Temperatures below 50°F cause die back. You’ll want to keep it safe as temperatures dip,' explains Juliet Howe, award-winning horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design.

When preventing pests when moving houseplants back indoors, remember to check underneath foliage. I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon) to give foliage a wipe clean.

2. Reduce Watering

One of the most important parts of fall houseplant care is adjusting watering frequency.

'Cooler days with less light, bring slower growth and less water consumption. Now is the time to stop watering on a schedule and water only when needed,' says Juliet.

Watering too frequently where the soil is taking longer to dry out can make your Chinese money plant susceptible to houseplant root rot and fungal issues.

'A good way to know when to water is to touch the soil. If the soil is dry up to the knuckle, it is time to water. Alternatively, try the bottom watering technique. When the soil is dry down to the bottom of the pot and the leaves have begun to droop slightly, place the plant in a saucer, pan or even a sink of water for about 30 minutes or until the soil is moist up to the top, then remove it from the water,' Juliet advises.

I like to use my Amazon soil moisture meter to check my houseplants' soil every time before watering.

3. Protect From Drafts

When choosing where to place your Chinese money plant for fall and winter, consider two things: light and temperature.

'A place with abundant, indirect light is ideal, like a south or southeast facing window,' says Juliet.

'Be careful of drafty windows that will expose your plant to freezing temperatures or radiators that will blast it with hot, dry air,' she adds.

Ideally, your Chinese money plant should receive 6-8 hours of bright light. You can use this grow light from Walmart to supplement light if needed.

Likewise, its ideal temperature is 60-75°F, but in fall and winter you should focus on avoiding freezing temps, as Juliet advises. This could cause browning foliage, drooping, and leaf drop.

This simple room thermometer from Walmart can help keep an eye on temperatures for your Chinese money plant.

4. Rotate Weekly

Houseplant rotation is one of the best things you can practice for your indoor plants in fall and winter.

'Rotate the pot once a week so the plant grows evenly,' Juliet describes.

By rotating your Chinese money plant's pot once a week, you ensure it receives equal exposure and encourages a more symmetrical silhouette.

It can help avoid leggy growth in September and beyond, strengthen your plant, and maintain a much more aesthetic shape.

A plant caddy (this one from Amazon has an integrated water saucer) makes it much more convenient to turn the pot regularly.

5. Propagate Pups

September is a good time to propagate Chinese money plants if they have 'pups,' or offsets

'The Pilea peperomioides is also known as the Friendship Plant. This is because it is exceptionally easy to propagate and share,' says Juliet.

'This plant produces little offsets or 'pups' around its base which are extremely easy to separate, pot and give to friends.

September is the perfect time to pot-up pups while there is still plenty of natural light and warmth for them to take root before winter,' she explains.

You may need clean and sharp pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to remove the offsets. Optionally, you can use this rooting hormone powder from Walmart to speed up houseplant propagation.

What to Shop

Chinese money plants are also among the luckiest houseplants in some cultures, including Feng Shui. You can reap these rewards by keeping on top of optimal care and ensuring your Chinese money plant's needs are met in every season. Our guide to Feng Shui houseplant mistakes has more information you may find useful.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There really isn't such a thing as heading out into the garden for just five minutes. For us garden-enthusiasts, strolling by flower beds can result in 10 new tasks that need attending to. This is where having pocket-sized tools is handy for quick jobs.

Many essential gardening tools are small enough to carry around with you as you work in the yard. Even better, they can solve some pretty annoying problems, from removing diseased foliage, to loosening compacted soil, and even stopping birds getting to your strawberries. This includes multipurpose tools, like this hori hori knife from Amazon, which can be used for all things pruning, planting, and weeding.

So, no more trapsing back and forth to the potting shed all afternoon – pop these tiny garden tools in your pocket, garden belt, or tool caddy.

Hori Hori Knife

If there's just one Japanese gardening tool to get your hands on, it's a hori hori knife.

As mentioned above, this multipurpose tool can weed, prune, dig holes for planting, cut garden twine, and more. This is thanks to its serrated cutting edge and pointed blade – you can even get ones with a toothed edge for pulling up weeds easily.

They're often much more lightweight than pruning shears and are far less less awkward to carry than most weeding tools.

The best part is, many hori hori knives come with their own protective holster that you can connect to belt loops or store safely in a pocket without cutting yourself.

Micro Garden Snips

There are so many pruning tools on the market, that it can feel overwhelming to know where to start. But, for tiny garden tools, a pair of micro-tip garden snips is the best pick.

It's perfect for quick deadheading, removing broken stems, and even harvesting tomatoes if you want to avoid pulling the vine.

I also find garden snips are useful for taking herb cuttings and harvesting smaller cut flowers.

Soil Scoop

Of course, you can use a trowel when it comes to potting up and repotting houseplants, but it can get a little messy. That's where one of the best tools for potting comes in: a soil scoop.

A soil scoop is a specific kind of trowel that is much rounder to contain soil. Its slender shape makes it perfect for filling smaller, narrower pots, ultimately avoiding lots of mess and saving waste..

Paired with a potting mat (like this striped one from IKEA), you can avoid losing lots of soil and keep your floor or patio clean.

Fruit Protection Bags

One of the biggest disappointments to experience when growing your own fruit is discovering that birds and rodents have to got to your crop before you could harvest. A simple fruit protection bag, however, can make all the difference.

Organza bags are breathable and allow light through, so make the perfect barrier to protect the likes of strawberries, tomatoes, and other smaller fruits from being eaten by wildlife. They often come in green or are transparent, so they don't create an eyesore in your garden.

You can even get larger bags to use on figs, peaches, plums, and more. They have a drawstring design, so you can securely fit them without damaging your plants.

Pot Feet

It's a common problem for container garden plants to become oversaturated during the wet and cold conditions of fall and winter. Even if they have drainage holes, sitting flush to the ground can restrict drainage.

Enter, pot feet. These tiny garden tools are simply feet to prop up your containers, elevating them off the ground and allowing excess water to drain more freely.

They're effective winterizing tools, offering reassurance your container plants' roots won't be sitting in soggy conditions.

Pot feet come in a wide range of styles, including terracotta and black rubber.

If you're short on storage space, consider also stocking up on collapsible garden tools. These all fold down to a smaller size to store with ease, including this Walmart garden kneeler seat and Amazon portable cold frames.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The warm soils and seasonal rainfall make early fall an ideal window to add trees, shrubs, and perennials to spruce up a garden. However, garden centers, nurseries, and online retailers can sell potentially troublesome plants that will leave you with gardener’s remorse.

Accidentally adding invasive plants to your garden can cause problems for many years to come, as they aggressively spread and overpower other plants in your yard. They can also cause damage to buildings and even escape from your garden, disrupting local ecosystems.

This list of invasive plants to avoid in fall reveals some of the worst contenders you may see for sale – and the expert-recommended alternatives to put in your shopping trolley instead. It even includes popular plants that are invasive; ones that many gardeners enjoy but don’t realize are troublesome.

6 Invasive Plants to Avoid in Fall

The first step to avoiding regret is to check what is invasive in your area. The labels in nurseries or garden centers won’t always contain this information. You can check the USDA invasive species list, consult your own state's list, or contact your local Extension office to find out what is invasive or noxious in your area.

Bamboo

Bamboos add structure and drama to any garden, but far too many gardeners have fallen foul of planting the wrong bamboo over the years and been left to rue the mistake.

There are two types of bamboo to grow. Clump-forming bamboos, as the name suggests, grow in tightly-packed clumps – these are less risky. Running bamboos, however, produce strong, long underground rhizomes that quickly spread. These take over the garden and can even cause structural damage to buildings.

David McCary, owner at Seattle Sustainable Landscapes, says that many people add bamboo to their yards ‘because it looks good’. He adds: ‘But it spreads quickly and is very hard to get rid of and most of the time ends up coming back.’

You can dig barriers into the ground to stop bamboo from spreading, but this is not always 100% reliable. ‘No matter how carefully you contain it, it always seems to find its way outside of your intended boundaries,’ warns Jose Lopez, the owner and founder of Williams Landscaping in Chicago.

Bamboo can be very versatile, as a screening plant for privacy or as part of a Japanese garden. But it is imperative to pick the right bamboo to prevent issues

A beautiful alternative to bamboo is Calamagrostis (reed grass). The popular ‘Karl Foerster' variety adds vertical drama as it sways in the breeze and won’t flop in winds or heavy rain. You can get a live ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass at Nature Hills.

Nandina

Nandina, or heavenly bamboo, is often a popular choice for homeowners as it is a low-maintenance shrub with lovely foliage and vivid red berries in the fall. Its stems resemble bamboo (hence the name), but it is not a true bamboo; rather, it is part of the barberry family.

Despite its name also claiming it is heavenly, it is far from angelic. Instead, it is classed as an invasive plant across the southeastern United States.

As Stephen Janacek, founder of Pollinator Patch, explains: ‘Nandina domestica is common in foundation plantings across the South. The Florida Invasive Species Council lists it in Category I, and Florida's Natural Areas Inventory notes it spreads by wildlife-dispersed seeds and vegetatively through rhizomes and suckers.’

The risks from adding heavenly bamboo to your backyard are two-fold. It both suckers and spreads in your yard, and also escapes into the local habitat to inhibit native plants. It is better to opt for a native alternative that is also low-maintenance and produces vivid fall berries.

The American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) is a perfect alternative, with its stunning purple berries that really stand out during the colder months. You can get a live American beautyberry plant on Amazon.

Japanese Barberry

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) has been widely used in landscaping for many years. It is tolerant of many soil types and low-maintenance – two factors that homeowners look for when planting shrubs or adding hedges to a property.

However, it is an invasive shrub that grows into a large mass, which can hide a nasty surprise.

‘They are common in nurseries due to the color offerings, but these thorny bushes can also become a headache for a new gardener,’ warns Sara Gottlieb, Founder and CEO of Liminal Gardens.

‘Ticks, known to spread Lyme disease, love to hide and live in this shrub along with small rodents like mice.

‘Barberry has also been known to spread fungal disease, Black Stem Rust, to wheat, oat, barley and rye populations in your area. Though sold as an easy-to-grow and maintain shrub, I would stay away from them in my home garden.’

If you plant Japanese barberry, it all-too-easily spreads outside the confines of a garden and forms thick groves that crowd out native plants.

Its invasive nature has led many states to ban or restrict its sale and planting. For example, Lindsay Chastain, homesteader and founder of Waddle & Cluck, says: ‘Japanese Barberry can't be sold or cultivated in Pennsylvania because of how it disrupts natural ecosystems.’

Stephen Janacek recommends growing ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) as an alternative to Japanese barberry. You can get a live ‘Summer Wine’ black ninebark at Nature Hills to plant for a pollinator-friendly shrub with deep burgundy foliage.

Montbretia

Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora, also known as monbretia, is a hybrid variety of crocosmia that has gotten itself a troublesome reputation for escaping from gardens and crowding out native plants in wild areas.

‘Montbretia has striking orange (or red) flowers but spreads fast underground. Left unchecked, it can dominate garden beds and creep into wild areas,’ warns Jennifer Holmes at Environment Control.

‘Digging out corms before flowering can help, though large infestations may require chemical treatment by a qualified contractor.’

Crocosmia spreads in two ways, through underground corms and by seeds. After planting, it drifts and spreads across flower beds, dominating more delicate plants. Once it escapes the garden, it starts forming dense patches and outmuscling native plants.

In the US, it is classed as an invasive plant in North Carolina and across the West Coast.

You can plant crocosmia to enjoy their bold flowers and distinctive foliage, but choose the types wisely. Container-grown plants are often available in fall in nurseries or online. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is a popular variety with scarlet flowers and is better-behaved than monbretia.

English Ivy

English ivy (Hedera helix), or common ivy, is a popular evergreen climber, though it is sometimes sold as an easy ground cover plant too. It is fast-growing and unfussy, capable of growing in any conditions from sun to deep shade. The versatility and ease of growing English ivy have made it a popular plant for many years, but it does not come without serious potential issues.

‘English ivy is a pretty popular plant that I would not add to your garden this fall,’ claims Lindsey Chastain.

This sentiment is echoed by Sara Gottlieb. She says: ‘It can be a picturesque, fast-growing addition to your garden, but the rapid growth can come at tremendous cost to a gardener. It is a strong species that easily out-competes surrounding species; it also loves to climb and choke other plant life to gain supremacy.’

Ivy spreads rapidly as an invasive ground cover, swamping other plants and creating a perfect hiding place for rats, mice, and other pests. As a climber, it has developed a reputation for damaging fences and buildings, with its aerial roots capable of boring into bricks and mortar.

The plant also escapes gardens and grows aggressively, including dominating and shading trees. Ivy’s bad behaviour has made it a destructive invasive species in the UK. Stephen Janacek adds: ‘Washington's Noxious Weed Control Board lists it as a Class C noxious weed.’

Stephen recommends kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), also known as bearberry, as an alternative native evergreen ground cover plant. You can get a live Massachusetts Hybrid kinnikinnick plant at Plant Addicts that will grow no taller than 18 inches but spread up to six feet. The foliage changes from deep green to red-purple in fall, the pink blooms are adored by bees, and the red fall berries are popular with wildlife.

Three-Cornered Leek

Three-cornered leek (Allium triquetrum) is part of the allium family and, once it gets into your yard, you’ll struggle to get rid of it. Foragers adore these plants as a sweeter alternative to wild garlic, but they’re an invasive bulb you won’t want in your garden because they spread ferociously.

‘Three-cornered leek spreads quickly via bulbs,’ says Jennifer Holmes. ‘It can overrun garden borders and escape into woodlands, displacing native flora. Pulling up bulbs before flowering and careful disposal is essential. Persistent infestations may require repeated removal or herbicide treatment.’

It is hard to eliminate the plant as they grow from small bulblets. Any tiny bit left in the soil sees it resprout, ensuring a long battle to remove three-cornered leek if you have it in the garden.

Instead, grow an allium that isn’t as problematic, and there are many to choose from. Such as the native one-leaf onion (Allium unifolium). It is an ornamental allium with pinky-purple summer flowers in late spring. You can get Allium unifolium bulbs at White Flower Farm.

What to Shop

Renovating flower beds is a great task for any fall gardening checklist. For inspiration, our guide to the best perennials to plant in fall includes 10 great options you can plant in September or October, including the likes of hostas, coreopsis, phlox, coral bells, and more to fill any beds or borders with color and texture for seasons to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Suburban streets blooming with fall porch displays are a charming sight. However, if you would like to switch up your store-bought mums this year, we have some design tricks from floral experts.

With their array of colors and bloom forms, potted chrysanthemums are an attractive and inexpensive way to celebrate the season. Yet they can look so much better with some simple tweaks. It's not necessary to have a large porch or a huge budget to create an arrangement with high-end energy.

Discover what floral designers do to give budget mums a tasteful glow up with these outdoor fall décor ideas – and create a fall porch display that we'd bet Martha Stewart would approve of. This garden mums quart pot from Plant Addicts would be a great foundation for a beautiful front door feature.

Team Mums With Other Late-Bloomers

Mums are popular during the fall, as they thrive when many other plants are starting to fade. However, there are some other species that can work with these floral favorites in porch displays this time of year.

'Adding woody plant material will take potted mum displays to a whole new level,' says Jim Sutton, Associate Director of Display Design, Longwood Gardens.

'Choose perennial plants that can later be incorporated into your permanent landscaping. There are several varieties of hydrangeas, such as paniculata or oakleaf, that have been bred for fall interest. These can prove to be a very good investment.'

This Little Lime Punch Hydrangea from Plant Addicts can flower into fall with spectacular color.

Ornamental kale mixed with pansies can add an unexpected flourish to containers that persist well into cold weather too.

'Kale and pansies mixed with mums in different pots make a display far more interesting,' says Jim. 'Conifers, especially yellow foliage ones, are another way to elevate a simple mums display into something much more sophisticated.'

Add Contrasting Foliage And Texture

Mixing ornamental grasses, foliage or branches with mums is a striking option that's gaining popularity. Floral designers like to mix other eye-catching stems into displays too.

'Adding cut branches, fresh or dried, will add interest, texture and height to these displays,' says Jim. 'Colored dogwood stems (yellow or red) will stay fresh in a fall container that’s well watered, can transition to a holiday container, and often will root in giving you another plant the following year.'

This Arctic Fire Red Twig Dogwood from Plant Addicts is suitable for a container – and would look gorgeous in the garden during the winter.

'Curly willow can generally be purchased from a local florist and, if fresh, will act the same,' says Jim. 'For more drama, birch branches or birch white poles can be added to containers if large enough.

'There are several new cultivars of Heuchera on the market with nice fall foliage. Taller grasses work well too.'

'Using architectural foliage and branches is a great way to elevate your display,' says Calvert Crary, Executive Director, FlowerSchool New York. 'Tall stems can draw the eye to certain focal points, where you group your arrangement for maximum impact.

'If you want the mums to be the star, use grasses to create a “backdrop” that lets the mums stand out front and center.'

This Feather Falls Carex Plant from Burpee would add structure to a container display.

Opt for Oversized Pots

Leaving mums in their nursery pots can look a little lacklustre. Aside from placing individual plants in smart outer pots, floral designers have other tricks to make store-bought mums look more sophisticated.

Calvert likes to remove the nursery pots and group small plants together in an oversized container for a more impactful display. This also allows you to replace plants if necessary.

'Plant your store-bought mums in standard black pots and place those pots inside a larger vessel,' says Calvert. 'This way you can easily change the look of your display without needing to repot the mums when you want a fresh look.'

With their golden yellow flowers and firey red tips, these Matchsticks Chrysanthemums from Burpee offer fabulous fall color.

Group Containers And Repeat Colors

Grouping containers in coordinating shapes and sizes together is a trusted technique for garden designers. This method can work well for front porch displays too. Jim likes to place mums in attractive planters of different sizes to bring extra pazazz to the look and feel of the plants.

'Whichever plant composition you choose, putting a common chrysanthemum in a beautiful pot elevates its position,' says Jim. 'Grouping containers of varying sizes and heights adds to the impact of any mum display.'

It's not necessary to have huge numbers of potted mums for an impressive arrangement. Odd numbers are a faithful formula, so just three mums grouped together in coordinating containers will look far more impressive than one plant on its own.

'When selecting your plants, bear in mind that repeating a hue or staying within the same color family typically lends more impact to an arrangement,' adds Calvert.

Shop Decorative Pots

As you can see, it doesn't take too much time or effort to switch up basic store-bought potted mums into an expensive-looking outdoor arrangement.

'Chrysanthemums bloom all at once for a strong late-season color statement,' says Jim. 'They are also very economical, giving you a lot of value for the cost.

'Adding gourds and/or pumpkins in and around the containers is often pleasing to the eye. Grapevine can also be artfully intertwined around the containers to draw the eye through the whole composition.

'And since front porches generally offer some cover, it's easy to extend the season elegantly with these plants.'

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Terracotta pots bring a warm beauty and character to any deck or patio. They evoke a Mediterranean allure, but also create specific growing conditions that don’t suit all plants. Knowing what grows well in terracotta pots and what doesn’t guarantees happy plants and prevents fatalities.

Terracotta planters and pots are porous and allow air and moisture to pass through their walls, which means the soil dries out faster. This is perfect for any plants that don’t like sitting wet for long periods, but not for moisture-loving ones. Plants that thrive in terracotta pots like warmer soil and fast-draining conditions that dry out between waterings.

If you want a thriving container garden, this guide to the best plants for terracotta pots helps you understand which plants prefer clay and which do better in plastic or ceramic. Terracotta pots do come in many different shapes and sizes, from classic straight-sided pots and urns (like this terracotta urn jar at Target) to more modern designs. If you invest in an eye-catching pot, you always want your plants to impress too.

Rosemary

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, a locale of hot, dry summers and rocky, well-draining soils. This natural habitat mirrors the conditions plants experience in a terracotta pot, making rosemary one of the best plants to grow in terracotta pots.

Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder of The Waddle and Cluck, says that rosemary’s preference for warm soil, along with its trait of being a drought-tolerant herb, makes it a ‘good option’ for the growing conditions created by terracotta.

‘Terracotta works best for plants that like to dry out a little between waterings,’ says Lindsey. ‘Because it's clay, it also loses moisture faster.’

When you grow rosemary in pots, it is important to avoid ‘wet feet’, as the plant is prone to root rot if it sits in soggy soil for long periods. Any container for rosemary needs drainage holes, and an amendment such as grit or perlite added to the potting mix.

If you want to harvest rosemary for cooking or cocktails, this live ‘Chef's Choice’ rosemary plant at Trees.com, formerly known as Fast Growing Trees, is perfect. With a higher oil content than other varieties, it offers an astounding flavor profile.

Lavender

Lavender is another hugely popular herb, and its native heritage suits it perfectly to terracotta pots. It hails from mountainous areas of the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and Asia (yes, English lavender is not native to England) and thrives in drier, fast-draining soil.

It ticks all the right boxes for growing in terracotta pots or planters, plus growing lavender in clay just looks right. It might just be me, but I think lavender in containers stands out far more as a statement maker in terracotta than plastic pots.

This ‘Phenomenal’ lavender plant from Trees.com is compact and perfect for pots. The purple blooms will look stunning against the earthy orange tones of terracotta and attract lots of pollinators.

When lavender sits in soggy, poorly draining soil, it succumbs to root rot, which often means the end for your plants. If you grow lavender in pots and it looks sad with grey leaves or wilted stems, it may be in the wrong pot or need more gravel added to the soil for drainage. The best soil for lavender is always free-draining.

Also, check that the container has a hole; if not, it is easy to add drainage holes to planters.

Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums, also known as tender geraniums, make a stunning show in pots. I used to work at one garden that displayed its pelargoniums every summer on tables adorned with groups of plants in terracotta pots. It was a great mixed display of colorful, fragrant blooms and foliage, and the plants loved their lives in terracotta.

The tender plants hail predominantly from southern Africa (though some are from Asia or Australasia) and have been popular in gardens for centuries. Pelargoniums come in a range of bright colors, and there are varieties with textured or scented foliage.

This collection of two live pelargonium plants at Amazon combines a Pelargonium ‘Citrosum’ and a Pelargonium crispum ‘Mosquito Shocker’, and both put out a delicious lemon aroma to enjoy.

Overall, there is a real diversity of pelargoniums available for gardeners to grow, but all types need specific growing conditions found in terracotta pots.

Pelargoniums love free-draining soil and are happy for the compost to dry out between waterings. They also thrive when they get good airflow around the roots. This combination makes them one of the best plants to grow in terracotta pots.

Having them in a pot also makes it easy to overwinter geraniums, as you can bring them indoors for the colder months.

Agastache

‘For terracotta pots, I'd recommend Agastache because they prefer drying out between waterings and not having soggy roots,’ says David McCary, owner at Seattle Sustainable Landscapes.

Agastache, also known as hummingbird mint, is a drought-tolerant perennial that grows in free-draining, rocky, and arid soils in their native habitats. They like sun and warmth and needs to be in soil that drains well. Growing hummingbird mint in wetter conditions comes with a real risk of rot.

If you want a pretty container plant for pollinators, agastache ticks all the right boxes. As the name hummingbird mint suggests, it attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds to its fragrant spikes of tubular flowers, which can be purple, blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, or white.

This live ‘Kudos Red Dwarf’ hummingbird mint plant from Plant Addicts is a compact variety perfectly suited for pots. It produces scarlet blooms from June and will continue to flower all summer and well into fall with deadheading. If you want to grow hummingbird mint in pots, this is a fabulous variety to consider.

Citrus Trees

I also worked at a historic garden that had a large display of citrus trees. These were grown in terracotta pots of different sizes and brought out to create formal displays during the summer.

Such a show of citrus trees was popular in 17th-century European gardens and still looks impressive today. I am not recommending taking that grand approach, but even growing a single lemon tree in a terracotta pot makes a showpiece on a patio and fills the air with fragrance. The dark green foliage and bright fruits blend well with the earthy tones of terracotta and the combo brings a real Mediterranean garden feel to any space.

Citrus trees are plants that thrive in terracotta pots, as they need good drainage and loathe overwatering to perform at their best. They like sun, but the roots want to breathe and remain cooler.

They don’t like to bake in hotter plastic containers. Fill your terracotta pot with a good potting mix and feed citrus trees weekly in summer with a dedicated citrus fertilizer, such as this liquid citrus fertilizer on Amazon.

Terracotta pots are also heavier than their plastic counterparts, so your trees are less likely to fall over on windy days.

A ‘Meyer’ lemon tree like this on Trees.com is one of the best fruit trees to grow in pots. The thin-skinned fruit is a cross between a lemon and an orange. It has a unique sweet and savory taste, and you won’t find such fruit in stores.

What to Shop

As mentioned at the start, some plants simply won’t ever thrive in terracotta containers – no matter how hard you try. Moisture-lovers, plants with delicate roots, and others aren’t suitable for life in clay. Avoid falling foul of this with our guide to 12 plants to never put in terracotta pots.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

It's a common problem for houseplants to look a little leggy as we go through seasonal shifts. In September, straggly, weak growth is usually the result of significantly darker conditions, causing your plants to become stressed.

It's a indoor plant problem I've dealt with many times, but the good news is it's fairly straightforward to fix. When houseplants are accustomed to brighter light in summer, suddenly receiving much less light (for example, if they're tucked away from a window) can result in leggy growth as the plant searches for more light.

I turn to my houseplant care kit to prune away this weak growth and gradually acclimate my houseplants to a more optimal position with more light exposure. And it's really as simple as that – you just need a pair of reliable houseplant pruning snips to hand (like these from Amazon).

What Causes Leggy Houseplants in September?

An essential part of fall houseplant care is helping plants adjust to changing growing conditions. This includes lower light and less hours of light exposure.

When houseplants that thrive in brighter light suddenly receive far less, it can result in a stress response: stretched, weak growth that is searching for light. The fact many houseplants are still actively growing in September means there is one last growth spurt that is not being supported with sufficient light levels.

You can use this houseplant meter from Amazon to determine if your plants are receiving enough light.

The problem with leggy houseplant growth is that not only does it weaken the plant and result in long stems more susceptible to snapping, it looks unsightly. This is particular the case when it causes plant stems to be long and sparse, with big gaps between leaves (a common problem for succulents).

In turn, your houseplant becoming weak right before the coldest months makes it much more vulnerable to the cooler room temperatures and houseplant pest damage.

That's why I act as soon as I notice my houseplant's starting to look a little lopsided and leggy.

How to Fix It

There are a few steps I follow when trying to revive a houseplant from leggy growth. Just remember some patience is needed to nurture it back to good health, so don't expect an instant improvement.

1. To help a leggy houseplant recover properly, it's important to acclimate it to a more optimal position. Each houseplant has its own specific light needs, but fall and winter generally call for positioning closer to windows – you can also use a grow light to supplement light if needed (this grow light from Amazon has a convenient timer). You can gradually reposition it by moving your houseplant closer to a window for a few hours each day, giving it a gentle introduction to its new home.
2. Once acclimated, use houseplant pruning snips (these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's are a good choice) to cut back the leggy growth. You should cut just below a leaf node where new growth will emerge. Just take care not to prune more than one third of the plant, which may cause further stress. And keep in mind the shape you're creating when pruning, so you get a more aesthetic end result.
3. Practice houseplant rotation going forward. This is where you simply rotate your houseplants, say once a week, so each side receives equal exposure to light. In fall and winter especially, this can help create a more symmetrical shape and prevent further leggy growth. I find a plant caddy (like this wooden one from Wayfair) makes this much easier to do.

Bonus: Propagate Your Cuttings

Depending on the condition of the stems you prune off your leggy houseplants, you can grow houseplants with cuttings to multiply your collection.

You may find rooting hormone (like this rooting hormone powder from Amazon) helps speed up houseplant propagation. However, September is a favorable time to root cuttings, with lingering warmer temperatures and the final days of summer daylight.

What to Shop

Houseplants can be such a joy in fall and winter when the garden has gone to sleep. As well as ensuring they stay healthy, you can use houseplants for fall color to create a beautiful botanical spectacle for your home.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Fall is an exciting season in the world of interiors. Not just because of the beautiful decor that comes into style, but also because it's when we start to really look ahead to the trends that are predicted to dominate the coming year.

Interior designers, naturally, have a true insight of what's to come – working on projects set to be completed a year or more in the future, they have a unique preview of the kitchen trends set to dominate. Which is exactly why we've asked Studio McGee's Founder and Chief Creative Officer, Shea McGee, to share her insights and predictions for 2027.

From the materials that infuse warmth and interest to the features that bring personality with longevity, these are the top 3 kitchen trends the renowned designer says will be big next year, and how you can make these stand-out designs feel timeless and considered in your own space.

1. Warm, Character-Rich Woods

Wooden kitchens have been back at the forefront of designs for the past couple of years, but expect things to get a little warmer in 2027. White oak has dominated recent trends, but Shea predicts richer tones of species like walnut to have more of a moment, adding depth and interest to kitchens of every style and size.

'We're loving the return to warmer wood tones in kitchens – walnut, oak, anything that really lets the grain and natural variation come through. After years of bright, all-white kitchens, people want spaces that feel warmer and more grounded. Like they have a little history to them,' she explains.

'The key to making this feel timeless is not treating wood as a trend. Use it where it can become part of the architecture – cabinetry, an island, or even a furniture-style hutch – and pair it with quieter materials like natural stone and aged metals. Those are combinations that have been beautiful for generations.'

2. Soft Kitchens

Kitchens are getting softer and more lived-in, and this shift is directly impacting how we design and decorate our spaces. Functionality is still a priority, but there's a growing emphasis on cozier, more living room-like features that make you want to spend time in these spaces beyond cooking.

'We're seeing kitchens become less utilitarian and much more integrated with the rest of the home. Instead of every inch being traditional cabinetry, we love to use freestanding pieces, artwork, lamps, open shelving, and furniture-inspired details to give the kitchen more personality,' Shea explains.

'This resonates now because people want their homes to feel collected rather than overly prescribed. To keep it timeless, introduce those details in ways that feel authentic to how you live. A vintage-inspired cabinet for storage, a beautiful piece of art, or a table lamp on the counter can soften hard surfaces without requiring you to commit to a major design statement.'

3. Richer, More Expressive Stone

Creating a timeless space no longer means choosing a kitchen countertop that feels safe and simple. The chicest kitchens dare to go bolder, and trends are shifting toward more expressive stones that add personality and texture.

'Natural stone has always been a favorite of ours, but right now we're especially drawn to stones with more movement, warmth, and variation,' She explains. 'We’re moving away from the idea that every permanent finish needs to be perfectly quiet. People are more comfortable allowing one material to bring character to the room.'

The key to its success is balancing it with the other finishes and materials in the kitchen. 'For longevity, let the stone be the statement and give everything around it some restraint,' she advises. 'Rather than combining several bold finishes, carry one beautiful stone across the countertops and backsplash, then balance it with classic cabinetry and simple hardware. Natural materials have an inherent variation and patina, which is part of why they tend to age so beautifully.'

Shop the Trends

If Shea's predictions are anything to go by, 2027 is gearing up to be the year kitchens continue to evolve into more considered, lived-in rooms. But the cozier, softer details come through enduring materials and decorative details that don't impede function. For more inspiration, tour these Studio McGee kitchens that showcase truly timeless design.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

With fall underway and the holidays just around the corner, hosting season will soon be in full swing. And with all that entertaining comes plenty of cooking, making now the perfect time to ensure your oven is clean and ready for the months ahead.

Scrubbing can only do so much to remove stuck-on, built-up grease, though. In these instances, you'll likely need something a little stronger − and chances are you already have just what you need waiting in your kitchen.

Here, cleaning experts share how to use a dishwasher tablet to clean an oven, and exactly why it works.

As Alex Varela, Cleaning Expert at Oakville Maids, explains, using a dishwasher tablet, available at Walmart, is an effective oven-cleaning hack because they are specifically designed to remove grease, react very well with hot water, and don't generate much foam.

'This is helpful in a compact space like an oven where you want to see where you're scrubbing,' he explains. 'Their size is appropriate to clean a standard-size oven, and they’re full of enzymes, alkaline detergents, and surfactants to break down the grease and food crumbs in your oven. They also work to clean your oven trays.'

Importantly, Karina Toner, Cleaning Expert and Operations Manager at Spekless, says the key is to keep the tablet slightly damp, 'so it can work as a mild scrubber rather than simply rubbing a dry tablet over the oven.'

'When the tablet is dampened, it can act as a mild abrasive while its cleaning ingredients help loosen the greasy buildup, making it easier to wipe away,' she advises.

How to Use a Dishwasher Tablet to Clean a Greasy Oven

To tackle your greasy oven by cleaning with a dishwasher tablet, begin by making sure it's completely cool before removing the racks and any loose crumbs or debris first. You can use a handheld vacuum for this, such as the TRAKAR Handheld Vacuum, available at Walmart. Then, wearing gloves:

• 'Dampen a dishwasher tablet with warm water,' says Karina. 'You want it wet enough to soften slightly, but not falling apart.
• 'Gently rub the tablet over greasy areas using small circular motions. Focus on the bottom and sides of the oven where grease tends to accumulate.'
• Let the solution sit for 10 to 15 minutes. 'This gives the cleaning ingredients time to loosen stubborn residue,' adds Karina. 'Don't allow the surface to completely dry.'
• Once 10 to 15 minutes have passed, wipe everything away with a damp microfiber cloth, available at Walmart, or a sponge, rinsing frequently under clean running water.
• Then, use a clean, wet microfiber cloth to remove any remaining detergent residue.
• Dry the oven with a clean towel and let air-dry completely before using it again.

You can also use dishwasher tablets to clean your oven racks.

'Fill your sink with hot water until it covers the trays, place the trays with a dishwasher tablet, and let sit for 15 to 30 minutes,' says Alex. 'Scrub with a non-scratch sponge and rinse with running water under the sink. Dry and place them back in the oven.'

Importantly though, whether cleaning your oven or your racks, if something is really baked on, don't keep scrubbing harder and harder. Instead, 'I'd give it another round and let the tablet do some of the work,' recommends Enrique Gonzalez, Founder of Seattle Green Cleaning Fairy. This will prevent any scratching or damage.

The Drawbacks to Keep In Mind

The biggest drawback to keep in mind when trying this clever way to tackle one of the hardest household cleaning tasks is that dishwasher tablets are very concentrated and, obviously, aren't designed specifically for oven interiors. Therefore, warns Karina, 'They shouldn't be treated as a universal oven cleaner.'

They may also leave residue if not rinsed properly. 'This leftover can remain on the surface and produce an unpleasant smell or smoke when the oven heats up again,' says Rhonda Wilson, Quality Lead Cleaner at FreshSpace Cleaning.

Finally, Alex adds, there is a risk of slightly scratching your oven, and this method may not be as effective as using a commercial solution when cleaning a particularly greasy oven.

'In this case, I suggest sticking to what we know works and using a fume-free oven cleaner,' he advises, such as the Easy Off Fume Free Oven Cleaner, available at Amazon.

To prevent damage, always avoid using this method on heating elements, exposed electrical components, self-cleaning oven interiors, or surfaces where the manufacturer's care instructions prohibit abrasive or alkaline cleaners.

'Always check the oven manufacturer's recommendations first and test an inconspicuous area if you're unsure,' concludes Karina.

What to Shop

From oven cleaners people swear by to cleaning accessories to make the job easier, shop a selection of six handpicked essentials below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Experts

'If the oven has a thick layer of hardened grease, don't try to remove everything in one aggressive pass,' says Karina. 'A short soak with a suitable oven cleaner or a few rounds of gentle cleaning is safer for the finish and usually produces a better result than excessive scrubbing.'

If you'd prefer to clean an oven without chemicals, try vinegar or baking soda instead.

For more cleaning advice, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

I ve never been an over-the-top seasonal decorator (Christmas aside). I don't fill the house with themed accessories every few months, but I do think a home should feel different in October than it does in July. Fortunately, I find that you can capture the mood of a season without relying on piles of decor.

A few times a year, I make small changes that help our rooms feel more comfortable, functional, and suited to the months ahead. Fall is probably my favorite time to do this, at least for our indoor spaces. I love bringing warmth back into the house and preparing it for cooler nights and earlier evenings at home.

Rather than redecorating every surface, I focus on fall layering – changing colors, adding texture, and switching fragrances to switch the atmosphere of the home. These are the simple changes I make each year to reset our home for fall.

Switch to Cozier Bedding

I always start by changing the bedding around the house, since it’s the most practical part of the reset. I swap summer-weight duvets and blankets for warmer down inserts, or if we’re still in that unpredictable stretch when temperatures rise and fall every few days, I simply add another layer.

Once the cooler weather settles in, I pack away the lightweight bedding for the season. I wash or dry-clean everything first, then store it in a canvas storage tote under the bed or in the attic, so it’s clean and ready to use again next summer.

Layer in Rich Textiles

Decorative textiles are one of the most effective ways to signal the season. In my bedroom, lightweight linen and summery florals give way to velvet, wool and tapestry in deeper shades. I also add a slightly darker duvet cover to the bed and change the throw and pillow on the armchair in the corner. You don’t need to replace every textile: introducing one richer color, like amber, rust, or olive, along with two or three heavier textures is usually enough to shift the mood of the room.

I use the same approach in our living spaces. I keep seasonal pillow covers folded in a drawer, which takes up far less room than storing complete pillows and makes them easy to rotate throughout the year. After changing a few covers, I add extra throw blankets to the baskets near our sofas and chairs. This ensures they’re useful rather than simply decorative, while also giving the rooms a subtle visual signal that they’re ready for cooler weather.

Arrange Seasonal Flowers and Foliage

After the textiles are taken care of, I work on changing out the flowers and greenery. During the summer, I fill vases with flowers that peak in the warm weather, like hydrangeas, lilies and alstroemeria, along with a few faux leafy branches. But by fall, those arrangements begin to feel out of place.

Until the holiday greenery comes out, I use dried hydrangeas, magnolia leaves, dahlias, celosia, mums and branches with turning leaves foraged from the yard. These arrangements bring the season’s softer, earthier colors indoors.

Scent with the Changing Seasons

Lighting a candle is an almost-daily ritual for me, so I also change the scents around the house with the season. I do buy the occasional pumpkin spice candle, but I tend to prefer more unique fall fragrances because they remind me of my home during that particular time of year. Pomegranate, fig and tobacco are my go-tos, especially when they’re paired with cedar, leather or a hint of smoke. I’ve included my current favorite in the shopping roundup below.

Stack Logs by the Fire

Our home has one wood-burning fireplace, in the living room, and it typically sits unused from late April until October. During the warmer months, we spend more time in the casual family room, but the fireplace draws us back into the living room once the temperature drops.

To make sure we're ready for that first chilly evening, I bring the firewood rack out of the garage, fill it with logs and set out the matches. Like the rest of the reset, though, it’s also a subtle visual signal that the seasons are changing.

Shop My Seasonal Favorites

None of these changes is particularly dramatic, but I find that heavier bedding, richer textiles, a few branches from the yard and warmer evening light are enough to make the rooms feel more comfortable and in tune with the time of year, without the need to redecorate every surface.

I have spent more than a decade writing about homes and interiors, but My So-Connecticut Life is personal. I live in a 1937 Colonial in the small town of Easton, Connecticut, with my husband, three children, and our dog. Seven years in this house have taught me which farm stands and vintage markets are worth the detour, how to set a table without stress, and the small routines that make a home feel like home. Every other Saturday, I’ll share a glimpse into life in Connecticut – where I’m shopping, how I’m hosting, and the seasonal rituals that shape the year.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

September is the time to prep Japanese maple for the colder months ahead. With the hot and sun baked days behind us, these plants need to recover their energy reserves quickly before heading into their dormant period.

Known for their spectacular fall color and intricately cut foliage, Japanese maple trees are a standout feature in gardens of every shape and size. Grown as bonsai trees, and as sculptural centerpieces in a border or planter, these deciduous, slow-growing trees have exquisite lines and a delicate charm that instantly elevate any outside space.

With shallow root systems and tender leaves, these versatile plants are susceptible to changeable temperatures and weather, so they do require a degree of care. This month essential tasks include judicious pruning, irrigation monitoring and prepping for cold weather (for which these large zip-up shrub protectors from Lowe's are very handy).

Prune Lightly To Maintain Shape

September is a poignant moment in the gardening year, when perennials, trees and shrubs have established, put on new growth and are settling in for the dormant period. Having nurtured them to this point, now is the time to nip Japanese maples into shape.

'Japanese maples are relatively problem free and require a very light hand in creating a graceful figure. The majority of the pruning done to maintain a graceful shape is done after the spring growth has hardened off. This period of time is the end of July into the beginning of October,' explains Daniel Schachner, horticulturist working in the Japanese Garden, Seiwa-En, at the Missouri Botanical Garden.

'During this period, any distracting or structurally problematic new growth can be controlled. The most important pruning tip is to prevent branches that will overlap or rub. A light hand is best.' Daniel also adds.

'If you have questions on pruning or are looking for a professional, the Aesthetic Pruner Association (APA) trains and certifies professionals on this type of pruning.'

A sharp, clean pair of Pro Bypass Secateurs such as these from Amazon, will make this job a joy. Plus if you love a dramatic and sculptural tree, be sure to consider Coral Bark Japanese Maple from Garden Goods Direct with it's contrasting red bark and lime foliage.

Protect From Fast Cooling Temperatures

Japanese maples often need protection in winter. Ice and snow particularly take their toll, with frozen soil preventing roots from absorbing essential nutrients and rot from setting in. The sheer weight of snow can also cause fragile branches to snap and stems to split, causing irreparable damage.

Knowing how to protect plants from frost, and taking action before cold, stormy weather arrives is a smart move, but options vary depending on the size of the tree plus where and how it is planted.

'If growing a Japanese maple in a pot in a climate that experiences freezing temperatures, it would be best to bury the pot in mulch to protect the root ball from freezing or they may be overwintered in an unheated garage,' he continues. Other preventative measures include lifting the plant off frozen ground using heavy duty rubber pot feet or a smart rolling plant caddy, both from Amazon.

For in-ground trees, winter tree care options can be limited. Frost cloths whether made from burlap, spun polysterene or breathable polypropylene fiber, all from Lowe's, can all be useful.

'Cold protection is tricky. If the tree is exposed to the wild in the winter and is small, you could do a wrapping in burlap during dormancy,' says Daniel. 'This is a difficult task, as the trees get larger and it usually is not feasible. Right plant, right place.'

Choosing a Japanese maple cultivar that suited to your climate is all important. Varieties with red leaves tend to cope with more sun in cooler climates, while those with green foliage prefer a shadier spot. 'Acer palmatum 'Emperor One' has also shown promise in cold tolerance in lower hardiness zones,' says Daniel. Find this Japanese maple variety at Lowe's.

Keep A Watch On Watering

Now is the ideal time to review your watering routine, whether you are nurturing an established Japanese maple or newly planted tree. Whether you are growing Japanese maple in a pot or planted in-ground , deep watering is invaluable and maybe not as often as you think.

'When it comes to watering, trees–in general–prefer a long, deep watering period on less frequent intervals,' says Daniel. 'Setting a sprinkler or irrigation system to run for a long period of time but only once a week or every other week is a safe choice.'

It is worth monitoring how much water is being distributed during each session, with Daniel's ideal being 2 to 4 inches. 'Testing your sprinkler system for the rate of application will help apply water properly. An irrigation audit is possible by setting out a container within the irrigated zone that can capture water to be measured.

'Most turf irrigation systems will water for a short period of time, but multiple applications per day. This can be problematic as the soil cannot properly drain moisture, and it encourages fungal pathogens in the root system. It is important to observe the soil around the tree; irrigation should only be applied if the soil is draining properly.'

If you don't wish to install an irrigation system, there are other watering solutions to try. We like the look of the Dew Right Tree Watering Donut from Garden Goods Direct or the Element Kink-Free Soaker Hose from Lowe's.

Time To Plant New Trees

September marks a short window for planting Japanese maples in the ground. With cooling air temperatures, a mellowing sun and still-warm soil, conditions are perfect for a tree's root system to settle before wintry weather kicks in.

'If you are planting a maple in the ground, early spring and mid-fall, typically in September and early October are the best times,' says Daniel. 'However, if planting a small tree, it can be done any time in the growing season with success if water is applied properly.'

Soil preparation for good drainage, is all important, and can vary depending on soil type. Loosen clay by mixing in topsoil, well aged compost or pine bark or bolster sandy soil's water retention with well rotted compost. Also, be sure to break up heavily compacted soil. This sturdy garden digging fork or Spear Head Spade, both Amazon, will easily handle the task.

Plant the tree so the graft line is above the surface and in a hole that is slightly shallower than the tree's root ball. This will discourage water from pooling around the main stem and to drain efficiently.

Top Up Mulch

This month, prior to leaf fall, is the perfect time to top up a tree's mulch layer. 'Mulch keeps soil temperature lower and helps retain moisture. When applied to an appropriate depth, it develops a fungal mat that helps to suppress weeds and break down the mulch for nutrient use in the tree,' explains Daniel.

While a mulch depth of around 4 in( 20cm) is ideal, a shallower depth will still aid plant growth and limit weed growth.

'It is important when applying mulch to any tree that the mulch must not be touching the trunk and bark of the tree. Any area above the basal flare, where the roots meet the trunk, does not handle the persistent moisture that the mulch retains and can lead to the death of the cambial layer and therefore the tree,' Daniel adds.

Organic mulch options can include homemade compost, grass clippings or fallen leaves but bought-in products such as Cleanstraw Pine Needles from Trees.comand Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets from Target will create a professional and polished finish.

What To Shop

One of the best trees for fall color, Japanese maples are just the start of a cool season garden filled with impact. Take a look at these native alternatives trees to expand your collection, and snap up some of these plants for pots in September for winter color.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

No other season brings the decorating excitement quite like fall. Everything gets cozier, the textures softer, and the colors warmer – it's like turning your home back into a sanctuary as summer fades away. But how much seasonal style should you be bringing into your kitchen – the most practical room in the house?

As the hardest-working room, any fall decor you introduce requires a delicate balance. Too much can overwhelm the room with clutter and dysfunction, but too little leaves your kitchen feeling forgotten, missing the coziness synonymous with the season.

For interior designer Amber Lewis, less is more when it comes to fall kitchen decor, with an emphasis on decorative details inspired by the season, rather than leaning into fall clichés. Here's how she transitions a kitchen from summer to fall, and the art of knowing when to stop.

As kitchens have become more social and a bit softer in style, decor has become essential for a more personalized, lived-in feel. And not just the accessories – even kitchenware can bring a whole new layer of style to your cooking space. But as we head toward fall and start decorating for the season, how much of our decor should we really change?

'Not much, honestly,' says Amber, who suggests subtler changes that hint at a cozier season without being too literal. 'Add a warm-toned runner, or hang some fresh kitchen linens near the sink – that's plenty. The bones of the room (your cabinetry, countertops, and hardware) should be timeless enough that they don't need seasoning.'

The biggest mistake people make is thinking they have to completely swap out every decorative element of their kitchen each season, especially fall when the shift feels most significant. Be intentional with how you decorate – less really is more in a practical room.

Transitioning your kitchen decor requires only a few simple changes that signal the arrival of fall. Color is a classic starting point, but Amber recommends a more nature-inspired palette for a sense of longevity beyond a single season – colors that still feel cozy and thoughtful as we head into the winter months, rather than the bold oranges and yellows associated with this time of year.

'I gravitate towards rust, olive, and warm camel tones for the fall. They're earthy without being obnoxiously autumnal, so they don't read as decor you’ll have to swap out come January,' she explains, adding that your kitchen linens are a great way to introduce these seasonal hues. 'The Celia Table Runner in Terre and Roland Raffia Placemat are a few of my personal picks. And for a final touch, the washable Josie 02 Earth / Natural Runner Rug is a functional and beautiful addition!'

The same enduring approach applies to the materials and textures you introduce, and how you introduce them. The most successful fall kitchens add seasonal style with pieces that aren't just visual, but functional, too, like a rustic cutting board that adds warmth and structure to shelving, or handmade mugs that transition a coffee station from cold brews to hot drinks.

However you choose to bring fall into your kitchenware, always consider texture. 'Material-wise, I love bringing in a handmade ceramic or a woven basket for an easy fall update – anything with an organic, tactile quality feels warmer as the seasons change,' Amber continues. 'High-quality tableware should lay your foundation, and I’m particularly drawn to handmade pieces with yummy texture like the Portia Ceramic Dinnerware and Handblown Cafe Glasses.'

Texture brings a fall feel to your kitchen while balancing style and function. A woven basket adds tactility and meaningful storage, while handmade ceramics look beautiful on display while serving a practical purpose in your cooking space.

These ideas feel at home in the kitchen and add a chic fall feel rather than leaning into clichés – something Amber recommends avoiding. 'Skip the pumpkins-on-every-surface approach and focus on texture instead of a theme,' she advises. 'A chunky linen table runner, a stack of well-worn cutting boards, a bowl filled with something seasonal but not literal – that’s how you create those fall vibes without it feeling like a copy-paste from Pinterest.'

Shop Fall Kitchen Decor

The chicest fall kitchen decor is nuanced and elegant – for Amber, that means inspired by the season without falling into themed or cliché aesthetics. It should bring warmth and coziness without feeling solely seasonal, like natural textures, tactile materials, and earthy colors that feel considered beyond fall and into the new year.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

We’ve reached that awkward time of year when, in many parts of the country, the weather can’t seem to make up its mind. Mornings can be bitterly cold, only for the afternoon to feel like summer all over again.

That makes switching over and organizing clothes a logistical nightmare. I’m ready to bring out the sweaters and heavier layers, but I still need a few summer pieces within easy reach to see me through those unexpected warm spells.

Rather than cram everything into my closet and make getting dressed a battle every morning, I’m trying an ‘in-between’ basket: A lidded caddy for those lingering summer pieces that keeps them close at hand when I need them, while taking some of the pressure off my clothes storage. These foldable baskets from Amazon are perfect for the job, giving me a neat place to stash seasonal stragglers without committing to a full closet switch-over just yet.

My fall wardrobe swap is a serious undertaking. Every year, I have to ruthlessly declutter my closet just to make all of my sweaters and cardigans fit. There is simply no room in my small home storage to keep my summer and winter clothing side by side.

That makes things particularly tricky in the transitional period, when I need to carefully layer clothing to avoid being too hot or too cold through the day.

Using a storage basket with a lid, from Amazon, means that I can keep some of the summer clothing that would otherwise go straight into my under-bed storage to one side, without awkward cluttered piles laying in limbo on my bedroom chair. The boxes are dust-proof, protecting items from dirt and damage, and are extra-strong (supporting up to 25 lbs) for easy stacking. Rather than leaving clothes out on display for a few weeks, I can keep them folded away neatly.

The best part? Once the weather makes up its mind and the rest of my summer items can go away, the boxes fold flat for easy storage, so I do not have to commit to finding a use for them year-round.

It's a quick, seriously simple fix that makes this awkward inter-season period a little bit more organized.

What Else to Shop

To keep your clothes neat and protected throughout winter, I’ve curated a selection of clever closet essentials that the most organized people rely on to keep their closets in order.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

With your bedroom closet organized, move on to your fall pantry reset to arrange your kitchen for the hosting period.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Gardeners can get lots of free plants by taking cuttings in September. Early fall is a great time to take semi-ripe cuttings and get exact clones of your favorite plants. Whether to expand a collection or as a contingency in case you lose any to winter frosts, take cuttings this month and plant them out next spring.

If you are new to taking plant cuttings, it may sound confusing. In a nutshell, semi-ripe material is current-season wood that has started to harden but not fully firmed. The base is hard, but the tip is soft, and shrubs should have a lot of this material in September. As they are still actively growing in early fall, these cuttings should take relatively quickly.

There are still ornamentals and edibles you can plant in September, but there is always a real satisfaction to growing plants from cuttings. Here is a lovely selection of semi-ripe cuttings to take in September, along with expert tips for success. Get started with a pair of sharp, clean pruning snips (available on Amazon) to take your cuttings.

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is a staple herb for any keen cook to have in their herb or kitchen garden. The aromatic foliage also makes it very popular outside a herb garden, such as lining pathways or making a statement in a container.

Despite being a cold-hardy plant, rosemary will struggle sitting in cold, wet soil over winter. You can grow rosemary indoors in colder climates (US hardiness zone 6 and lower) to protect it from frosts. Or you can propagate rosemary from cuttings and overwinter these indoors, just in case anything happens to your parent plants over winter.

Select healthy, straight, non-flowering shoots 4-6 inches long and remove the lower leaves so only an inch of foliage remains on the soft tip. Dip the end in rooting hormone (such as this rooting powder at Walmart) and insert up to four cuttings around the edge of a small pot filled with well-draining cutting compost.

Keep the cutting somewhere protected over winter, such as in a greenhouse or on a bright windowsill. Ensure the soil remains moist, but not waterlogged, so the cutting can be planted outside come spring.

2. Lavender

Gardeners can easily propagate lavender from semi-ripe cuttings in September. It is a great option if you have a particular type of lavender you love, or have a woody lavender that may need replacing in the future.

As some lavenders are also more susceptible to frosts or damage during cold, wet winters, it is a sensible way to plan for potential losses. If your existing plants survive winter unharmed, you can gift young lavenders to friends and family.

Pick shoots that are brown and woody at the base, yet green and flexible at the tip. Trim them to 3-4 inches long and remove the lower sets of leaves. Dip them in rooting hormone and place them around the edge of small pots; this propagation potting mix on Amazon makes a suitable free-draining soil for cuttings.

Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a humid atmosphere that helps keep the cuttings moist. The cuttings should overwinter in a greenhouse or on a windowsill where they can get bright, but indirect, light. The plastic bag should be removed after the first few weeks, and the cuttings should be potted on once roots have formed.

3. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas are easy to propagate from cuttings in the fall. If you have a hydrangea variety you really enjoy, or want to encourage a friend or family member to grow hydrangeas by gifting them a plant, taking semi-ripe cuttings in September is a great way to do so.

To multiply hydrangeas from cuttings in fall, select a non-flowering shoot and cut it into a 6-8 inch piece. Snip off all the lower leaves, leaving just one set at the top, and cut the remaining leaves in half to help reduce moisture loss. Dip the cuttings into rooting hormone and place them into a pot filled with well-draining compost.

Alternatively, you can propagate hydrangeas in water. To do so, follow the steps above but, instead of a pot of soil, place the cuttings in a container of water and put that in a warm, bright spot on a windowsill. Keep changing the water at least weekly and wait until the cutting has developed two-inch roots before potting it up.

4. Salvia

Gardeners in the know appreciate that not all salvias are winter-hardy. There is a wide range of borderline or half-hardy salvias to grow, including the popular Salvia ‘Amistad’, which flowers for a long time to delight onlookers and attract pollinators throughout the season.

Taking salvia cuttings in fall insures against any potential winter losses and expands a collection. If your salvias are getting older and woody, propagating salvias in this way gives you exact clones to add to borders or pots as replacements.

Pick healthy, non-flowering stems and take 4-6 inch cuttings. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and pop a number of cuttings around the edges of small pots. Each cutting should have two-thirds of its length submerged under the soil.

Water gently and cover the container with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid to boost the humidity (you can get nursery pots with humidity domes at Amazon that are ideal for cuttings). Place it somewhere warm and bright, such as a greenhouse or windowsill, and then overwinter the rooted cuttings in a frost-free place.

5. Hebe

Hebes are among some of the prettiest evergreen plants for a garden. The genus contains around 90 different species of low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that flower in summer. It includes varieties with different sizes, leaf colors, and flowers.

Not all hebes are fully winter-hardy, and many are short-lived perennial plants. If you have a unique variegated hebe or a particularly colorful variety that you adore, it pays to take cuttings so you always have plants in your collection, just in case. As hebes will impress in borders or as evergreen container plants for structure and interest, why not propagate new ones?

Take 4-6 inch cuttings of stems where the base is firm, but the tip is soft. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the base into rooting hormone, and put the cuttings into pots of compost – again, you can put more than one per pot.

Once the cuttings have rooted and been potted up into individual pots, keep them in a greenhouse, cold frame, or on a windowsill over winter. But be careful not to overwater the plants, as young hebes are known to rot sitting in sodden soil. A soil moisture tester like this at Walmart can be used to quickly test individual pots to judge when to water plants.

6. Forsythia

The sight of bright yellow forsythia flowers heralds the end of winter. Their blooms are a welcome sight at an otherwise relatively barren time of year.

Such spring-flowering shrubs bursting into life make a big impact and lift the spirits – it is understandable why any gardeners might want to add more to their yard, whether as eye-catching stand-alone shrubs or a vivid hedge. It is not only us who revel in seeing forsythia blooms, as the flowers are also vital early-season nectar for pollinators.

If you grow forsythia, there are lots of options for cultivating new plants. You can take softwood cuttings in late spring, hardwood cuttings in winter, or semi-ripe cuttings in early fall.

When you go down the latter route of taking forsythia cuttings – September is an ideal month for doing this – the plants will develop roots quickly and can be potted on in spring. These plants should then be large enough to plant out later in the year.

7. Fuchsia

There is a diverse range of fuchsias, including hardy and half-hardy varieties. Fuchsias bring vivid color and interest to yards from midsummer through to the frosts, whether in flower beds, container gardens, or hanging baskets.

Gardeners can take fuchsia cuttings of hardy and tender plants in early fall. It is a reliable way to get new clones of your favorite plants, and an easy fallback if any half-hardy fuchsias are unfortunately lost during the winter months.

Select healthy, non-flowering shoots and take 4-6 inch cuttings with pruning snips or a sharp knife, such as this horticultural knife at Lowe’s. As with others on this list, remove the lower leaves, dip the cutting in rooting hormone, and place it in a pot filled with cutting compost – you can get 3-4 around the edge of one pot.

Cover the container with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid and put it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight.

What to Shop

September makes a great month for planning the future garden. It is a month for planting shrubs and perennials in early fall to get them established before winter, along with thinking about seeds.

The best seeds to order in September include hardy annuals to sow directly straight away – they’ll put down roots, go dormant, then burst into life and flower early come spring – and perennials that need a period of cold stratification to germinate. Also, there are cold-hardy vegetables to plant in fall that can be sown straight into the soil.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

As the seasons turn and the weather worsens, drying laundry in the great outdoors will soon be put on hold until next spring. Bringing it inside, though, can all too often result in an eyesore − standard laundry racks certainly aren't celebrated for their style.

Fortunately, there are alternatives that will look at home in even the most chic of spaces. From laundry maids to wall-mounted racks, doing laundry needn't disrupt the look and feel of your home.

Here, laundry experts share five elegant options that seamlessly integrate into your space.

1. Laundry Maids

Laundry maids are one of the very best ways to dry clothes in a small space − and one of the most stylish.

'Laundry maids are a great option because they take the drying space off the floor,' says Rechelle Balanzat, Laundry Expert and Founder and CEO of Juliette.

'Instead of having clothes hanging at eye level or a rack taking up valuable floor space, everything is up and out of the way. When you’re not using it, you can raise it up, so the room still feels open.'

When shopping for this rustic laundry room accessory, Rechelle recommends focusing on the pulley system and how easy it is to raise and lower.

'You don’t want something that feels like a workout every time you use it,' she explains. 'I’d also look at the weight capacity, the quality of the rods, and how securely it mounts to the ceiling.' For example, this Ceiling Laundry Drying Rack, available at Amazon, is a well-rated option. You don't have to limit laundry maids to your laundry room, either. They will also work well (and look tasteful) above staircases and in hallways.

'Unlike many other laundry drying alternatives, this method brings a sense of craft, texture, and interest to the space,' adds Courtney Klinger, Interior Designer and Founder of Studio Whitford.

'Laundry maids are typically made of wood, metal, and rope and are mounted to the ceiling, with access through a pulley system. The upper mounting hardware draws the eye up while the structure feels more like an architectural accent than a utilitarian necessity. When not in use, the laundry maid can be adorned with beautiful linens that suit the room.'

2. Laundry Ladders

Laundry ladders are another stylish option for drying clothes inside in winter.

'Ladder-style racks that lean against the wall are not only effective at drying, but they look decorative with laundry draped from the rungs,' says Stacee Parker, Laundry Expert at Poplin. 'They are well-suited for the bedroom, bathroom, or other smaller spaces.

'Ladder-style drying racks usually come in wood or metal. Both work well, but wood has a nice aesthetic, and it won't rust.'

This Tall Wood Ladder, available at Wayfair, arrives fully assembled and is crafted from 100 per cent fir wood.

3. Pull-Out Drying Racks

'What I like about pull-out racks is that they can completely disappear when you’re done using them,' says Rechelle. 'You’re not looking at a bulky drying rack sitting in the middle of the room all day. They feel more built-in and intentional, which makes the whole space look cleaner.

'I would look for a strong rack with a smooth-operating pull-out mechanism and enough space for the quantity of laundry that I typically air-dry. I would also check the weight capacity of the rack. Wet clothes weigh significantly more than dry clothes, so I would need a rack that could hold a full load without bending or wobbling.'

If a built-in option isn't a possibility in your own utility room, the Joseph Joseph Eclipse Airer, available at Amazon, offers a temporary alternative that looks good enough to leave up when guests come over. It's also an ideal discreet laundry rack for shared dorms.

4. Over-the-Door Drying Racks

If space allows, over-the-door drying racks keep laundry up and off the ground, though they often don't look as stylish as other alternatives. For that reason, it's best to put them behind your laundry room door and out of sight.

'These are best in stainless steel, as they are more durable; they resist sagging and won't rust,' says Stacee. The Brabantia Over The Door Hanging Clothes Drying Rack, available at Wayfair, offers an affordable option.

'Doors can be high-traffic areas, so having a sturdy rack that won't collapse when opening or closing the door is key,' she adds.

5. Wall-Mounted Drying Racks

Finally, 'Wall-mounted racks are visually appealing because they keep everything contained against the wall,' recommends Rechelle. 'When they’re folded up, they have a much smaller footprint than a traditional drying rack. In a smaller apartment especially, that can make the room feel less cluttered and more intentional.'

When shopping for a wall-mounted option, like this Wall Mounted Clothes Drying Rack, available at Amazon, pay close attention to the mounting hardware and weight capacity, advises Rechelle.

'You want something that can hold wet clothes without pulling away from the wall,' she adds. 'I’d also look for rust-resistant materials, especially if it’s going in a bathroom or another humid space, and a design that folds relatively flat when you’re not using it.'

What to Shop

If you're looking to replace your laundry rack this fall, I've rounded up six of the best alternatives to shop below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Experts

This 30-minute laundry rule makes winter laundry more manageable.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Fall has officially begun, and temperatures will soon begin to drop across the country. It's likely you haven't turned on your heating just yet, but before you do, there's one simple task to do this September that HVAC experts suggest ticking off.

While it will take just a few minutes and requires only a humble hairdryer, it's an easy way to ensure your radiators heat up faster when you need them in fall and winter.

Here, experts explain exactly how to do it, and why it works to make heating more efficient in your own home.

How to Heat Rooms Quicker This Fall

As mentioned, this simple tip requires only a hairdryer, such as the Revlon Compact Hair Dryer, available at Walmart, and involves using it to blow away built-up dust and debris that's settled on radiators over the spring and summer months.

'Use the cool air setting, work from the top down, hold the hairdryer a few inches away from the radiator, and try to angle it downward through the top grille or between the fins,' advises Bob Caldwell, Owner of Cardwell HVAC. This makes cleaning behind radiators easier than ever, and means you can simply use your best vacuum to clean beneath them once finished.

Just be careful you don't hold the hairdryer too close, warns Bob. 'It can push dust deeper into the radiator rather than blow it out toward the floor,' he explains.

Much like the way that moving furniture away makes radiators heat up faster, this trick ultimately works by improving air circulation.

'It helps the radiator heat up the rooms a little bit faster because there's no layer of dust that can sometimes act as insulation and reduce heat transfer,' says Bob. 'A hairdryer helps where a regular vacuum, even with a brush or crevice attachment, can’t reach. It simply blows away all loose dust sitting between narrow fins and in tight gaps.

'A vacuum sucks up the dust, but a hairdryer pushes air through the radiator, which allows you to remove even the dust sitting deep between the fins, behind internal panels, and in narrow gaps away from the surface.'

Then, for any residual dust, use a tool for perfectly dust-free radiators, such as a Scrub Daddy Damp Duster, available at Amazon.

This simple way to tackle this germ hot-spot to clean before turning the heating on takes just a few minutes, but you'll reap the rewards all fall and winter long.

What to Shop

From radiator cleaning essentials to the best space heaters, these cold-weather buys are guaranteed to keep a home warm all day.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Expert

This quick fix for slow-heating radiators instantly solves cold spots.

For more heating advice, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

Throughout fall and winter, your bedroom becomes your sanctuary. As temperatures drop and nights draw in, it's where you relax, unwind, and rest − so it's important to create a harmonious, inviting space that cultivates comfort.

It's easy once you know how. A simple rearrangement of furniture, consideration of balance, and even the addition of a plush rug can make a world of difference in supporting your well-being as the seasons turn.

Here, experts share how to perfect your bedroom feng shui to beat the winter blues with an uplifting sleep space.

1. Perfect Your Bedroom Layout

As Feng Shui Expert Lorraine Lewis, in partnership with MattressOnline, says, 'Our nervous system governs our sense of fight or flight, even when we sleep.' Therefore, she recommends, 'Find the sweet spot' of your bedroom layout ideas. In particular, keep in mind the all-important bed placement Feng Shui rule, and avoid the Feng Shui death position.

'This means you can see the door and window from your sleeping position with a solid wall behind you, and the door or windows are neither directly in front of you nor directly behind you,' explains Lorraine. 'All of my sleepless clients found this shift made a huge difference to the way they sleep and wake up.'

To further help you sleep better, I'd suggest pairing this with some of the best bedding for fall and winter. Switch lightweight linens for heavier flannels, such as the Levtex Home Spencer Plaid Flannel Duvet Cover Set, available at Macy's, and don't shy away from adding a throw or quilt to your sleep space for added warmth and flair.

2. Make Room For Two Matching Bedside Tables

It's easy to overlook how important symmetry is in interior design, particularly in a bedroom space.

'Create balance with matching bedside tables, ideally one the same height as the bed, or a little lower, as this avoids subconscious feelings of being boxed in and encourages equality within your relationship,' advises Lorraine.

'Make sure to keep the tables as clear as possible, and if you want to improve relationships, place favorite framed photographs of you as a couple, one on either side.'

These should be placed in a pretty frame to match the rest of your decor. For example, the Striped Resin Frame from Anthropologie adds color and personality, and is available in three colors. Just don't forget to declutter your nightstand removing any items cluttering your bedside table before adding a photograph.

3. Keep The Day's ‘Energy’ Out Of The Bedroom

Next, Lorraine encourages removing daily laundry or just worn shoes from the bedroom. 'We carry the day's energy in the clothes we wear,' she explains. 'Wherever we’ve been, whatever we’ve been doing, the ‘essence’ of your day walks in with you.

'From the person you stood next to in a queue to the disagreement you had with a colleague, do you want to sleep with that energy? Best practice is to put the laundry basket outside the bedroom door or in the bathroom. Don’t bring your day to bed.'

For example, the Joseph Joseph Tota 2 Laundry Hamper, available at Amazon, will look cohesive and stylish, even when kept out on your landing. This is a simple way to avoid any Feng Shui mistakes.

4. Start Your Morning With Something Comforting

'Add a gorgeous rug to both sides of the bed,' says Lorraine. 'You want something that feels fabulous beneath your toes. It’s the first thing you physically encounter every morning, so make it a lovely experience, one that gives you pause and pleasure − even for a second.'

You likely already have a rug at home that you can move to beside your bed. If you're in need of some updated bedroom rug ideas, though, I'd suggest the Runner Meeks Handmade Sheepskin Area Rug, available at Wayfair. Ensure you know how to clean a sheepskin rug, and take the time to do so when necessary.

5. Go On A ‘Trigger Hunt’

Finally, says Lorraine, 'Tomorrow morning, notice the very first thing that dips, or triggers, your energy.' This might be anything from a pile of books on your bedside table, for example, to an awkwardly placed rug.

'Find the first thing, and sort it. Then tomorrow, find the next and work your way through the daily triggers that hit you every morning. Energy improves massively when you are conscious of, and can shift, the things that trip you up.'

You may wish to utilize some tips from sleep experts to help you organize a cluttered bedroom for better sleep, too.

What to Shop

Perfecting your bedroom Feng Shui certainly doesn't have to involve any cost. But if you are looking to upgrade your space for the new season, I've handpicked six essentials to renew and reset the energy and add cozy, comforting touches.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Expert

'Some of these tips may not seem as ‘feng shui’ as you might think,' adds Lorraine. 'But anything in our surroundings that nurtures our feelings of wellbeing, health and happiness is flying the feng shui banner. It’s a different way of looking at a room that you spend half your life in.

'Tiny shifts in your surroundings can change how you feel from the moment you wake up, making everything feel a little easier, from your sleep and mood to your energy levels and even your relationship with the person beside you.'

These simple tips for creating good feng shui in your home are sure to bring balance and harmony to every room.

For more feng shui features, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

The backsplash of 2027 is so much more than just a functional strip behind a countertop. A decade ago, this design detail was often perfunctory, but now it’s become a significant feature of the overall kitchen design, considered from the very beginning.

It isn’t just about making a ‘statement’, however – designers see the backsplash as an opportunity to enhance the character, craftsmanship and materiality of the space in a thoughtful way. We asked interior designers what their favorite backsplash treatments are for 2027, but also how and why they’ll work beautifully for years to come. These are the current, yet enduring backsplash trends they’re leaning towards for the year ahead…

1. Continuing the Countertop

In line with the quiet luxury kitchen trend, this look is all about allowing the backsplash to blend into the background rather than shouting ‘look at me’. Running the countertop up the wall to create a seamless continuation of stone not only looks chic, but it’s also visually restful, enhances the sense of space, and is a sophisticated solution for those who like their kitchens more pared back.

‘This backsplash look allows for more creative freedom with the cabinetry design and colorations,’ says Lisa Worth, founder of Worth Interior Design. ‘When the backsplash contrasts with the countertop, it can become the main focal point of the space, and then everything around it needs to take a back seat. While eclecticism in interiors remains very much on trend, it’s important to remember that the cabinetry is the star of the show.’

As the desire to incorporate the beauty of natural stone into our homes shows no signs of slowing, Lisa says that opting for a classic material in a timeless format like this is a win-win. ‘You can achieve a beautiful, considered look today while ensuring your kitchen continues to feel relevant for years to come,’ she says.

On a practical level, Lisa notes that with no grout lines, clean-up is much easier, and technological advances in stone-look materials mean you can get convincing stone-effect surfaces that require little-to-no maintenance.

2. Large Format Tiles

If huge slabs of stone are slightly out of your price range but you covet the look, large kitchen tiles could be the answer, and it’s one designers are reaching for more frequently for both practical and aesthetic reasons.

‘For modern, contemporary and high-function kitchens, I typically prefer to use the same stone for the backsplash as the countertop, but with the rising cost of fabrication, I'm gravitating toward large-format porcelain or natural stone tiles,’ reveals Ruchi A Mohan, founder of DesignbyRUCHI. Ruchi says tiles that come in 18x24 or 24x24 sizes work well with a typical backsplash height of 18"-24", with the only visible joinery being along the width of the splash.

‘The options available in large-scale porcelain tile have continuously been improving and increasing; minimal grout lines keep the look seamless, and the ease of maintenance is unmatched,’ adds Ruchi. While porcelain surfaces that mimic natural stone have been around for a while, more options are now available that look like mirrors, metals, travertine and quartzite.

‘Natural stone tiles available in large format sizes are also a great option for backsplashes, offering reduced material and application costs,’ adds Ruchi. ‘In my view, these are both viable, intentional, no-compromise solutions for very large kitchens where the actual material quantity required is high to start with; fabrication costs add to overall project costs. It's a smart use of budget with a unique mix of materials.’

'Longer term, the backsplash has a more visible impact on kitchen design than the stone itself. I love using a high-performance material like quartz for the countertop while featuring the backsplash to make the kitchen design forward-thinking. Budget is always real, be it during current times or in the future; materials that provide a solution to budget and increase design impact are always in trend.'

3. Artisanal Tiles

As homeowners seek out more personalised interiors, there’s still a whiff of nostalgia in the air for the backsplash trends of 2027 – designers are being tasked with creating more unique, one-off spaces that are layered with storytelling, heritage craftsmanship and designs that will last for generations to come.

‘Traditional tiled backsplashes are having a serious renaissance,’ says Gianpiero Gaglione, founder of Gianpiero Gaglione Interior Design. ‘Specifically, unique, handmade tiles that really showcase a certain level of craftsmanship, imperfection, and have an artistic quality to them. While a marble backsplash leans towards a more polished look, personally, what I'm seeing and hearing from my clients is that they prefer the warmth, character and hand-made quality that these artisanal tiles bring.’

Many brands are taking this on board, with the likes of Ca’ Pietra teaming up with heritage fabric powerhouse Sanderson to create an artisanal tile collection based on its iconic patterns. Similarly, Bert & May, known for its characterful tiles, has collaborated with print and pattern designer Chrisanna McArthur to reinterpret historic motifs with meticulously hand-painted designs that have a time-worn feel, celebrating craft, history and timeless design.

4. Top-to-Toe Metro

Subway tiles are an instant classic, providing an instant heritage feel that’s reminiscent of Victorian sculleries. ‘Fully tiled kitchen walls date back more than a century, and yet they continue to be a lovely and relevant design decision,’ says interior designer Jessica Helgerson. ‘In addition to their clearly functional value, they also eliminate the endless “Where to end the backsplash?” question, and depending on the tile used, can provide a beautiful wall surface.’

Using metro tiles in a classic cream or off-white adds a nostalgic feel, conjuring up a crisp and clean look that sits in line with the sanitation movement of the turn of the century. While previously designers might install subway tiles so they sit just under the wall cabinets to provide a functional backsplash, increasingly they’re adopting a wall-to-wall approach, with tiles going all the way to the ceiling and even cladding cooker hoods for a uniform look that’s sophisticated with just the right amount of visual impact.

‘My real inspiration for this look is the stunning kitchen at the Musée Nissim de Camondo in Paris,’ adds Jessica. ‘While this backsplash treatment obviously leans into a nostalgic look, it’s more about trying to recreate something that feels authentic to the house, so this is a design move we are more likely to do in a period property.’

The real bonus of this look is its timelessness and versatility – given their relative simplicity, subway tiles work in practically any kitchen and won’t date. It’s best not to be tempted into fancy or on-trend laying patterns, however; herringbone, for example, was a look that’s passed its peak, so sticking with a simple brick bond is best if you want to ensure its staying power.

5. Sculptural Designs

More and more, we’re seeing designers treating the backsplash as an architectural element rather than simply selecting an eye-catching material to protect the wall – it’s about creating something beautiful and reintroducing craftsmanship, similar to the rise in ogee detailing on countertop edges.

‘We're thinking about the backsplash almost like we would millwork: where should it start and stop, should it have a defined edge, can the shape echo something elsewhere in the room, or whether it can create a focal point around a sink or range,’ says Sary Em, partner and interior designer at Rework Architecture and Design.

According to Sary, this demand for sculptural detailing in 2027 is borne from a desire for spaces that have texture, personality, and pieces that feel handmade. ‘A backsplash doesn't have to be utilitarian – we want it to have the same level of thoughtfulness as a fireplace surround, a built-in, or a piece of furniture,’ she says.

The key to achieving this look is paying attention to how the backsplash relates to the architecture of the room. Sary says the sculpted backsplash should feel connected to something else in the space, whether it's the shape of a window, a cabinet detail, or an arch, so there’s a contextual link.

Ultimately, this is a timeless backsplash style that has the potential to outlast any trend as it’s based on authentic craftsmanship that works in any home – historic or contemporary – as long as it relates to its surroundings.

6. Small Format Tiles, But on a Big Scale

Backsplash feature walls have been around for a while, but instead of countertop-to-ceiling stone with statement veining, designers are reaching for a more pared-back, textured feel. ‘For 2027, we’re seeing a return to mosaic backsplashes that feel handcrafted, storied, and anything but mass-produced,’ says interior designer Christina Cruz. According to Christina, designers are gravitating toward smaller-scale patterns because they bring texture and character into the kitchen without overpowering the space.

‘We love pairing mosaic tiles with natural materials like marble, soapstone, warm woods and plaster – the contrast allows the backsplash to become a quiet layer of detail rather than the main event,’ she adds. ‘Consider a tonal mosaic with subtle variation, or use it selectively behind a range or within a niche where the craftsmanship can shine – this is what gives this look its staying power.’

Mosaics have been used for centuries, so while the application may feel fresh for 2027, the material itself is anything but trendy. ‘When rooted in natural materials and timeless craftsmanship, it only becomes more beautiful with age,’ says Christina.

Overall, it seems the best backsplashes for 2027 aren't the ones that shout the loudest – it’s the designs that feel quietly considered, relevant to the architecture and their surroundings, but also characterful and personal to the people living there. All of these trends are rooted in authenticity, whether that’s craftsmanship or heritage that pulls them together.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

There's nothing more welcoming in fall than a well-composed porch planter, and glorious ornamental peppers are the way to go in this season of plenty. These dramatic container favorites combine to spectacular effect with other seasonal plants to deliver a porch container with real wow factor.

Whether you've got a single statement container to fill, or you're planning on going all out with your fall porch display, I've got some practical and super-creative tips to help you make the most of ornamental pepper plants.

Ornamental peppers are among the best fall decor ideas, and learning just a little about their growing conditions will give you an odds-on chance of a dramatic, color-packed display for weeks, possibly months, to come. To kick things off, I'm sharing my favorite large brown Saabira textured planter from Crate & Barrel; it will set off those brilliant fiery colors to perfection.

Planting Companions For Ornamental Peppers

If you're in the market for some great container gardening ideas, ornamental peppers offer so many possibilities . When you're choosing plants to sit alongside them in a mixed planter, let yourself be guided by the foliage color of your chosen pepper varieties and, of course, the bright pops of red, yellow, orange and even purple that the peppers bring.

Consider also complementary plants that bring different heights and habits: in every top fall container recipe you'll need something tall for impact, something to bring movement and tacticle qualities (eg grasses) and something trailing to soften the edges of the pot.

Some of my favorites include chrysanthemums in toning shades of orange, red and yellow – especially this fabulous 'Matchsticks' chrysanthemum from Burpee, whose dramatic flower heads with quilled petals would make a wonderful contrast to the rounded baubles of some of the ornamental pepper varieties.

Grasses that work well with ornamental peppers include one of my top choices, 'Red Baron' Japanese blood grass, which you can buy at Nature Hills. Its blades are tipped with deep crimson, so it makes a brilliant partner to the deep red peppers. Carex 'Prairie Fire' from RHS is also another ornamental grass with suitably rich tones, with its cascade of arching orange-green foliage in fall.

Look to heucheras too, which will work brilliantly at the edges of mixed containers. They come in such a wide range of foliage colors – check out the heuchera selection at Garden Goods – that you're bound to find a heuchera variety that's just right for your planting combo.

A highly under-rated plant in my opinion is the viola, whose lovely cheery faces would look amazing alongside your ornamental peppers. Look for violas in tones of red, yellow and orange, or try dramatic black-veined 'Tiger Eyes' viola from RHS with black-foliage ornamental peppers.

How to Care For Your Containers of Ornamental Peppers

Ongoing care for your ornamental pepper porch container is fairly straightforward. But there are a few little jobs you'll need to do to get the most from your plants and keep them looking colorful and dramatic for weeks to come.

First of all, keep an eye on irrigation, as watering plants in containers can be a little trickier than it might seem. Ornamental peppers don't generally need heaps of water, but do water deeply once the top couple of inches of compost have dried out.

Every two to three weeks, feed your ornamental peppers with a balanced liquid fertiliser, to encourage fruit production over foliage growth. This means choosing something like Luiquinox from Lowes, which isn't too high in Nitrogen.

Keep an eye out for aphids and spider mites, which can colonise ornamental peppers, especially if the weather is warm and dry. Blast them away with a hose spray or use an insecticidal soap such as Smart Grower Neem oil & Peppermint Spray from Amazon.

How to Grow Ornamental Peppers in Pots

Providing the right conditions is crucial for a color-packed, plentiful display of ornamental peppers. These plants are members of the Solanaceae (nightshades) family, which also contains potatoes, tomatoes and, less surprisingly, edible chillies and peppers. They are natives of northern regions of South America and southwestern North America, thriving in mostly dry, sunny conditions.

To replicate those conditions in a pot on the porch, to grow ornamental peppers, you'll need to provide them with a good potting mix like Wakefiled Biochar Organic from Lowes, mixed with 20-30% vermiculite, such as Sta-Green Organic Vermiculite from Lowes, which will give ornamental peppers the decent drainage they need. Remember to plant your peppers at the same depth as they were in their nursery pots.

You'll also need to pick a spot that gets around 6-8 hours of sun per day, which means you'll likely need a south or west-facing porch, depending on what zone you're growing in. The more sun you give your ornamental peppers, the brighter your peppers will be, which is key to a dramatic fall display.

Hardy to 70°F (21°C), ornamental peppers tend to be grown as tender annuals. However, if you're in USDA Zones 9-11, you'll be able to grow them all year round. For the rest of us, we'll make the most of their upright, flame-like fruits to bring energy to our containers in a special-occasion fall and Halloween planters set piece.

In terms of container material, it's wise to go for terracotta pots, as this porous material helps to keep the soil inside from getting too soggy. Its earthen color also works brilliantly with those hot pepper tones.

Pot feet are a good idea at this time of year, as they keep containers raised off the ground where they're less likely to become waterlogged. I love these round terracotta LemonRoad feet from Amazon.

For something a little bit different, why not try a hanging basket arrangement. I adore this super modern remake, the Sphere Rust Patina from Anthropologie. Add in some complementary trailing plants (see below) and you're good to go.

Ornamental Pepper Varieties to Try

The great thing about flame-like, upward-shooting ornamental peppers – and perhaps one of the reasons why they're beginning to nudge traditional September chrysanthemums out of top spot for fall container plants – is they come in so many shapes and colors, which often shift beautifully as they mature.

Chilly Chili
The long, tapered fruits of this handsome variety extend straight up like spooky yellow and red fingers (they start off greeny yellow, developing to red but you get all stages of maturatity on the plant at once). It's a compact pepper at around 10in (25cm) tall.
You can buy Chilly Chili at Garden Goods Direct

Basket of Fire
This is an edible, compact ornamental pepper with medium heat and gorgeous fruits in red, orange, cream and yellow all at the same time. To 12 in (30cm), so brilliant for small pots or planting at the front of a larger display.
Buy Basket of Fire from Nature Hills Nursery

Black Pearl
Nothing if not dramatic, this pepper has glossy near-black foliage and clusters of small, berry-like fruits that turn from black to bright red. It's sizeable too, at around 18in (45cm), and grows into a fabulous pyramid shape.
You can buy Black Pearl at Garden Goods Direct

Sangria
A beautiful spreading, slightly trailing plant to around 12in (30cm) tall and 18in (45cm) wide with very mild fruit (useful if you're concerned about children) and stunning finger-like purple and red peppers.
Buy Sangria at Garden Goods Direct

Hot Pops
A really fun plant with small, egg-shaped fruits that point up, in colours that mature from pale yellow-green to yellow, orange and red, all at once on the same plant. Super cute at just 6in (15cm) tall.
Buy Hot Pops at Garden Goods Direct

While many ornamental peppers are edible, they can be anything from bland to bitter or extremely hot, so it's best not to eat them, unless you know exactly what you're dealing with.

Putting together a dramatic container for fall interest is one of the joys of the season. A little planning now – and make sure you put ornamental peppers at the centre of your display – and you'll have a wow-factor porchway for weeks to come .

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

When it comes to winterizing the garden, young trees are among the plants most in need of protection from frost and wildlife damage. Failing to put precautions in place could result in severe damage that results in the death of your tree.

Luckily, there are lots of winterizing tools you can use to protect young trees before winter, such as this Amazon tree guard which stops hungry wildlife attacking tree trunks.

Tree expert Carrie McClain also notes you can mulch your trees to offer insulation and should do one last water in fall to ensure they stay hydrated through winter. Here, with Carrie's insights, we explain three things to do to protect young trees before winter.

1. Keep Watering in Fall

It can be easy to assume you don't need to water plants as we progress into the colder conditions of fall and winter, but dry spells during these seasons call for watering and keeping plants hydrated.

'One of the most important and often overlooked steps is making sure young trees go into winter adequately hydrated,' says Carrie.

'Evergreens in particular continue to lose moisture through their needles during winter, so going into winter with adequate soil moisture can help reduce winter drying and browning,' she explains.

If you're concerned about overwatering during fall, you can use an Amazon soil moisture meter to check the soil and water accordingly. You should also give your trees a final deep watering before hard frosts arrive.

Our guide to watering trees in winter has more information on how to water them correctly during the coldest months.

2. Mulch Around the Base

'If you only do one thing to protect a young tree before winter, add a good layer of mulch around its base,' says Carrie.

Mulching is an essential part of overwintering a garden, where you use a layer of organic material to lock-in moisture and insulate plant roots as frost protection.

'Young trees are still developing their root systems, and mulch helps insulate those roots from extreme temperature fluctuations while also helping the soil retain moisture,' Carrie explains.

'Apply about 2-4 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, wood chips or pine bark, over the root zone. Spread it outward around the tree rather than piling it against the trunk,' she advises.

It's problematic to pile mulch up against tree bark because it can trap excess moisture and encourage rot and disease. Providing a gap around the base allows for airflow and will help keep the tree healthy.

You can gather fall mulching materials from your yard, purchase brown mulch from Lowe's, or even use mulching mats (like these from Amazon) which are suited to smaller trunks of young trees.

3. Install a Tree Guard

Winter wildlife, notably deer, rabbits, and rodents, can also pose a threat to garden trees. When other food sources are scarce in fall, they may start to chew on bark and damage tree trunks. It can leave trees girdled and exposed to frost damage.

'Young trees are especially vulnerable to browsing and rubbing during the winter months. A simple wire cage or tree guard can create a physical barrier around the tree,' says Carrie.

'Make sure the protection is tall and wide enough that deer can't easily reach over or through it to browse the branches. And don't be too quick to remove that protection in spring. Tender new buds and fresh growth can be particularly attractive to browsing deer, so continue to keep an eye on young trees as they break dormancy and put on new growth,' she advises.

These Amazon tree guards are a good choice because they're expandable and can ensure trees are fully protected. They also have a mesh design that provides plenty of airflow.

Alternatively, use a simple mesh wire tree guard (like this from Walmart) to put a barrier in place and stop wildlife getting to the tree trunks.

You can help keep deer away from your yard by growing deer-resistant plants, too.

What to Shop

As well as following these steps to protect young trees before winter, it's worth reading up on how to protect trees from winter weather. This includes removing any damaged branches, wrapping tree trunks with a breathable material, and protecting potted trees.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

It's that time of year when we're all switching, or at least planning to, our warm-weather clothes for winter alternatives. This might look like clearing space in your closet or using underbed storage solutions, but garments that need to be hung up can pose a more difficult problem. How to keep them crease-, dust-, pest-, and moisture-free?

Like most things, the answer lies at IKEA. And like most things at IKEA, it's impressively affordable, too. For just $1.49, the PÄRKLA Clothes Cover is guaranteed to keep precious clothes in perfect condition all fall and winter long.

It's an affordable addition to any closet space that provides instant long-term clothes storage and enduring peace of mind.

I've long dreamed of a dressing room, organized by color and category, and with plenty of space for my summer and winter clothes alike. The reality is, though, that like most of us, this is not something to be realized any time soon. Instead, a fall wardrobe swap is the simplest method for keeping my storage space streamlined.

I rely on underbed storage ideas for this, but never neglect to forget about my hanging space. My black tie dresses, suede jackets, and faux fur coats still need equal protection as fall and winter moisture sets in, particularly when it comes to avoiding any burgeoning mold and mildew throughout the colder months. For this, the IKEA PÄRKLA Clothes Cover is perfect.

I keep these in my closet year-round, but once my winter coats come out, there's plenty of space and empty covers to fill with my summer favorites that likely won't be taken off the rail until next June. With a super lightweight, narrow design, particularly when paired with slim velvet hangers, available at Amazon, they won't bulk up your closet and take up precious hanging real estate.

I use them specifically for those clothing items you should always hang up, like dresses, linens, and outerwear, but they're also ideal for protecting scarcely worn winter wools from moths, and even preventing moths in your closet, full stop.

It's no surprise, therefore, that this simple solution to avoid any clothes storage mistakes is popular among shoppers, with an average star rating of 4.7 stars across 222 reviews.

'Practical and easy to use,' says Sonia, alongside a five-star rating. 'I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the PÄRKLA clothes cover. I decided to give it a try and ended up buying covers three more times to keep my party dresses, coats, and graduation gown.' This highlights their usefulness when storing precious garments, like a graduation gown, long-term.

'The zipper goes all the way down to easily fit items inside, and my clothes feel absolutely protected now.'

As another review details, you don't need one bag per item of clothing, either, making them all the more inexpensive. 'Just what I needed!' enthuses D. 'I purchased a few of these to try them out, and I love them!

'I can fit [more than five]pieces of clothing in each, and the bag colors give my closet a little burst of flair! Very inexpensive, so I will be purchasing more to store out-of-season clothing.'

A couple of reviews also mention how handy these clothes covers are when transporting garments and moving clothes on hangers.

'Very practical,' says Soledy. 'Really good to protect the clothes while travelling by car or keeping in the closet. 100 per cent recommended.'

Leslie agrees, and adds that they're 'great garment bags,' and 'great for traveling on the go.'

At just $1.49, even buying ten at once will cost less than 15 dollars. They're a must-have practical closet organizer that will protect your clothing without costing the earth.

More to Shop

IKEA operates a minimum basket fee of $35, so I've curated this More to Shop section with six other closet and organization heroes to buy in bulk and transform your storage this fall.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

These best storage buys for winter coats ensure your entryway stays calm rather than chaotic.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

There comes a point in September when the garden begins to change. It isn't quite fall, but summer is undoubtedly slipping away. The evenings draw in a little earlier, just a few minutes each night. The greens aren't quite so fresh, and browning seedheads begin to outnumber flowers in parts of the border. It is a creeping change rather than a sudden one.

Perhaps that is why I appreciate the bold colors of heleniums. Their burnt oranges, rusty reds and brilliant yellows seem almost to compensate for the diminishing light and dropping temperatures. I have grown several over the years, but Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ remains a favorite, with copper-red petals surrounding a great chocolate-brown center. For something brighter, yellow-flowered varieties such as ‘Zimbelstern’ can positively glow in the low September light.

And there are plenty of other types of helenium to choose from, whether you want something tall and dramatic or compact enough for a smaller yard. Planting helenium in fall can help fill the gaps left behind by fading summer flowers, while providing valuable late-season food for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Helenium autumnale is a good choice, available from Nature Hills. If your borders are looking a little bare this September, here are my top tips for planting heleniums now and helping them settle in before winter.

How to Plant Helenium in Fall

Heleniums, sometimes known by their rather unfortunate common name of sneezeweed, are tough perennials. Many varieties are hardy down to zone 3, although this can vary depending on the cultivar, making them a good option for gardeners across northern regions.

In their native North America, heleniums thrive in open, sunny areas, and I would always give them as much light as possible. While some varieties can tolerate a little shade for part of the day, most need plenty of sunshine to flower well.

Helenium plants are available to order now via Amazon.

Heleniums don't appreciate drying out completely, so before planting work a little compost or well-rotted organic matter into poorer soils. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball and position your plant at roughly the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. Firm the soil gently around the roots before giving it a thorough watering.

Organic mulch is available to order now via Walmart.

September is a good time to do this because the soil is still warm, while cooler fall weather places less stress on newly planted perennials. The aim is to give your helenium enough time to establish new roots before winter arrives. In colder northern zones, however, I wouldn't leave planting too late in fall; the earlier you can get plants settled into the ground, the better.

Ongoing Care For Helenium in Fall

For newly planted heleniums, watering is the most important job during the first few weeks. While established plants are relatively tough, new additions shouldn't be allowed to dry out while their roots are settling in. Water deeply during warm or dry spells in September and October, directing the water towards the soil rather than giving the foliage a light sprinkle.

Taller varieties might also need a little support, particularly as fall brings heavier rain and stronger winds. If your helenium is leaning, a few bamboo canes or metal plant supports, available via Walmart, can help to keep those flower-laden stems upright.

I wouldn't worry about feeding newly planted heleniums in fall. If you have added compost when planting, leave them to concentrate on establishing roots rather than encouraging lots of fresh growth just as temperatures begin to fall. In fact, if you do not notice any new growth in the first fall after planting, it is nothing to worry about.

Finally, once flowering ends, there is no great rush to cut everything down. I prefer to leave at least some stems and seedheads standing through winter, where they add structure to otherwise bare borders and can provide food and shelter for wildlife. You can then cut the old growth back in late winter or early spring, ready for new shoots to emerge.

What to Shop

For more inspiration, see our guide to fall container recipes. The arrival of September and October certainly doesn't mean the end of color in the garden. Fiery flowers, changing foliage and evergreen topiary can keep borders and containers looking full of interest as the seasons turn.

In fact, I think this is one of the most enjoyable times to experiment with planting. As summer retreats, those umbers, oranges and yellows suddenly seem at home, particularly when combined with ornamental grasses and the first burnished leaves of fall (like ginkgo or aspens). Heleniums are just one way to embrace that change rather than fight it. After all, shorter days needn't mean a duller garden.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

After a summer of high temperatures, little rainfall, and more action than at any other time of year, your lawn may be struggling come September. It may look far from the lush, green carpet of your dreams and more like a patchwork quilt. However, September is an ideal window to show your lawn some love.

Lawns naturally start to recover from their summer exhaustion once the temperatures drop and they get more moisture. If you aerate, scarify, and feed as part of your fall lawn care, you can support this recuperation. The conditions in early fall are also ideal for overseeding and repairing any bare patches that opened up.

Here are our picks of crucial September lawn care tasks that will help your lawn recover from a tiring summer, be ready for winter, and come back stronger so you have a beautiful lawn next year. If you regularly invest time in lawn care, this electric aerator and dethatcher from The Home Depot is one machine in the shed for two essential seasonal tasks year after year.

1. Increase Mowing Height

A brown, patchy lawn in September means your grass is stressed. The combination of heat, dryness, and constant activity, from recreational activities to summer gatherings, takes its toll.

You do need to continue mowing your lawn in September, as the grass will keep growing until the frosts arrive. Mowing the lawn in fall keeps it neat, but you should increase the height of the lawn mower deck from what you’ve been doing in summer. It is advisable to raise the cutting height to around two to three inches.

Doing this helps the grass retain more moisture, which is vital as it recovers from the summer stress. Mowing too short in the fall can lead to weaker turf and more lawn weeds. Raise the height gradually throughout fall to prepare the lawn for the final mow of the year. This process conserves energy and helps your lawn survive the winter.

2. Aerate to Relieve Compaction

All the activity your lawn sees over the summer, from parties to playing, compacts the soil and the thatch. This compacted soil restricts the amount of water and nutrients that penetrate into the ground for the lawn to benefit from. It can be the reason for brown or bare patches of grass, or a waterlogged lawn where water struggles to soak in.

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, recommends aerating the soil in September to help it recover and bounce back again next year. ‘It is a great time to aerate your soil, which relieves compaction while also allowing oxygen, nutrients, and water to reach the roots before the ground hardens, especially for cool-season grasses like fescue or bluegrass, which thrive in the spring and fall growing seasons,’ she says.

Gardeners should aerate a lawn if they have cool-season grasses, as Allison mentioned, but not if their lawn is made up of warm-season grasses, like Bermudagrass, zoysia, and St. Augustine grass. These want aerating in late spring or early summer.

This four-row lawn aerator at Amazon has 20 steel spikes and is ideal for small lawns. For larger lawns, a rolling spiked aerator like this from Lowe’s can save time.

3. Scarify the Grass

Thatch, such as dead grass stems, roots, and moss, can accumulate during the summer. A thin layer is part of a healthy lawn, but once it gets too thick (usually over half an inch), it starts to affect your grass’ health.

September can be a time to scarify a lawn to remove thatch and prevent it from building up to excessive levels. It helps increase the water and nutrients that penetrate the soil, improves drainage, and avoids winter compaction.

Again, knowing the type of grass dictates when to scarify a lawn. Fall is a good time for cool-season grasses, but not for a warm-season lawn.

You can scarify with a spring-tined rake – a tough but rewarding job. To make things easier for a large lawn, you can get an electric scarifier. This 2-1 electric dethatcher and scarifier at The Home Depot clears 16-inch paths and includes a bag for collecting the thatch.

4. Fertilize to Strengthen the Roots

Fertilizing a lawn in fall supports the grass’s recovery and the transition into winter and beyond.

A dose of nutrients in September helps the grass strengthen its roots for winter and store food to use over the colder months. Fertilizing a lawn this month also puts it in a healthier position to grow quickly come spring, usually greening up several weeks faster than turf that was not fed in the fall.

‘We recommend fall fertilization for cool-season grasses, but less so for warm-season grasses,’ warns Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man. ‘For cool-season grasses, fall is often an ideal time to feed your lawn essential nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are crucial for root development, energy storage, and overall plant health.’

This fall lawn food on Amazon restores lost nutrients and continues to feed for up to eight weeks. Apply it with a lawn spreader for even results, like this mini broadcast spreader at Walmart.

If you are planning your fall gardening checklist, it is recommended to aerate the lawn before fertilizing.

5. Overseed to Fill Patches

The conditions in September are ideal for grass seed to germinate. Warm soil, cool air, and abundant moisture make a perfect trifecta for grass seeds. Gardeners can take advantage of this by overseeding the lawn in fall to fill in any troublesome bare patches in the turf.

‘If you’re noticing bare spots in your yard, overseeding will help to fill these in – giving you a lush, green lawn come springtime,’ recommends Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America. ‘Doing it yourself? Apply a high-quality grass seed in the right amount using a checkerboard or crisscross pattern.’

Spreading fast-growing grass seed in September also plugs thin patches where weeds can potentially take hold.

Overseeding is best done after aerating and scarifying. Raking the grass removes thatch and identifies additional bare or thin patches, while aerating before seeding improves seed-to-soil contact to help improve germination.

The best grass seed for overseeding in the fall is fescue (Available at Amazon) or Kentucky bluegrass (available at Walmart). Spread it by hand or with a spreader. If you do it in a crisscross pattern as Theresa recommended, this helps ensure even coverage.

6. Remove Leaves

Every fall marks the start of leaves dropping from the trees. Collecting leaves is an important task that keeps your lawn healthy over winter. Leaving them in place can smother grass. This causes patchy or dying areas where the lawn can’t get sunlight or oxygen. Also, a layer of leaves stops water from reaching the roots and becomes a breeding ground for diseases.

Theresa Smith warns homeowners to ‘be mindful’ of leaves on the lawn. ‘If leaves start to fall and mat down areas, delicately remove them,’ she advises. ‘A leaf blower on a low setting is an effective tool for the task.’

A battery handheld leaf blower like this at Ace Hardware can make collecting leaves a quick task. The manual alternative is using a leaf rake.

Or, a leaf vacuum (like this 3-in-1 leaf vacuum, blower, and mulcher at Amazon) can bag up the leaves for you. It is worth making leaf mulch with them, or you can use fallen leaves to protect plants by using them as mulch on borders.

One September lawn care task that nature tends to take care of for you is watering.

If you live in a temperate climate and have a particularly warm, dry September, you may need to water the lawn in fall. However, homeowners who regularly have wetter, milder falls are unlikely to need to get the sprinklers out.

A lawn needs around an inch of water per week in September. Check how much natural irrigation your lawn gets with a rain gauge (like this rain gauge at Walmart with large, easy-to-read numbers).

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

This is the time of year in which many parents are driving home from their college drop-offs to an empty house for the first time. Whether you have looked forward to this day for many years or dreaded it, lots of emotions come along with that day.

I dropped my middle child off to school this year, and my last is a senior in high school, so I can feel that time is rapidly approaching for my family as well. I used to love being alone in my house, a hot cup of tea, a good book, and the fireplace was my version of heaven on a Saturday afternoon if, by some miracle, everyone was out. But now, when I am home in the quiet, it feels very different; it's a foreshadowing of what's to come. The house feels so much bigger and emptier and maybe just a little too quiet.

I would say about 85% of clients who call me for my services have children who are in their 20s, with maybe one left in college, and they have just bought a second home. The kids have girlfriends or just got a dog, and maybe they even have a grandchild on the way. When I speak to them, they have so many hopes and dreams that this house will be the glue to unite their family. That they will have weekends and holidays with their children and significant others, and eventually with their grandchildren for those precious times they will come to visit. No pressure!

I talk to them about all the ways that we understand this time in life and how we have designed for family upon family that has been in this exact situation. That we understand the balance of what they are asking from the home and how it will deliver on this memory-making for them in every way possible. I assure them they have come to the right design firm because we know them maybe even a little better than they know themselves.

I have learned many lessons from working with so many empty nesters. I have learned that there is a delicate balance to be had during this time in life. Not to overreact. Not to make any rash decisions. We help to flesh out what the next 10 to 15 years may look like for their family. We have the harder conversations of ailing parents and what they may need in your home, conversations about aging in a home for themselves and what that may look like. Having a grandchild or a granddog visit and how the home should be designed with that in mind. We talk about designing an apartment within the larger home for them, with a place to sit and have breakfast together, and a separate laundry area near the primary bedroom. Maybe we are adding dishwasher drawers instead of a single-door one. Something that can be used easily when it's the two of them or expand when there’s a large group. When we are done, the house should feel cozy and inviting for the days they are alone in the home, and it should expand out and serve the whole family for holidays and weekends, but still provide respite for the owners to hide away with their book and a comfy chair near the fire.

For materials, we understand more than ever that these clients want a home that can be used by them for a group of friends or by their children with their own friends, using the house while they are not there. That every material will withstand beer bottles and cheeseburgers and chips spilling in the cracks of the sofa, and that when they return, everything will not only be in great shape but look more beautiful over the period of time it's been used. That the materials tell a story about the lives that were there and that they grow in their patina over time and that they have that wonderful lustre of a life lived in a home. Yes, this can be the case! You can sit back and pat yourself on the back for raising your children all those years and working so hard at your career at the same time. You know you can enjoy all the fruits of your labor with this home you are investing in, not just for yourselves but for your whole family. And that you can leave at the end of the weekend, turn the key, and head back home, not worrying about how it will fare over time.

So I leave you with my list I have created over the past 25 years of working with empty nesters, so that you can prepare yourself for what's to come or what may already be here:

1. Don’t automatically downsize – The first instinct is often this. But this may be the moment to just take a breath and ask: what do you really want from your home?
2. Design for the life you have now, but also think about what the next 10 years may look like. It will come in the blink of an eye.
3. Turn spare bedrooms into something meaningful. Don’t be afraid to take out that Queen bed and add a sleeper sofa. Add a sewing room, or the art studio you always wanted.
4. Create a really beautiful guest experience for the friends that will come. Call those old college friends and treat them to a beautiful weekend in your home. You will be drying your eyes very quickly and missing your children a lot less after one of these weekends. 'Oh yeah, we used to have so much fun together!'
5. Create a primary suite that feels like a destination – why? Because you, more than anyone, deserve it.
6. Create spaces for solitude for when you do want to get away on that busy weekend as the friends start to come again or family holidays.
7. And finally, remember, your children leaving your home doesn’t mean that something is ending; it means you get to reinvent, and this time it's all about what you want and what your home will be for in the future.

And if you are still struggling, call me and we can chat.

Interior designer Jess Cooney is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, where she shares her thoughts on decor. See the rest of her articles here.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Cranesbills or hardy geraniums (not to be mistaken with pelargoniums) have a long blooming period, often lasting into fall until the first frost. In September, they start to slow down, are past their peak display, and begin preparing for fall and winter – but, they do need a little help.

If you have hardy geraniums in your yard, you'll know they can spread fast and bloom profusely, but they're fairly low-maintenance. Come September, it's important to give them a bit of a tidy up. You should remove any damaged and diseased plant matter (with something like these sharp Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon), divide overcrowded plants, and adjust your watering regime according to the seasonal shift.

As a hardy perennial (USDA zones 4-8), fall care is all about prepping these cottage garden staples for winter so they make a reliable return next spring. Here, with the help of garden pros, I talk through three key tasks to do this month.

1. Remove Disease and Damage

The first thing to do is tidy up your geraniums to remove anything damaged or diseased. This will strengthen these plants and ensure no diseases overwinter to re-emerge in spring and potentially spread elsewhere in your garden.

'You want to remove any brown or damaged leaves or any stems that have been damaged. If your geranium still looks healthy and it still has full color, then leave it alone. Cutting it back to encourage fresh growth is usually more useful right after its main flowering period than this late in the season,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

As Lindsey notes, heavy pruning should be avoided. It can encourage soft new growth that is vulnerable to frost damage, so it's best to stick to light pruning this month.

Hot and humid summer conditions can cause a few problems like bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew. If you spot these, use essential pruning tools like the Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's to remove infected plant material.

'Diseased, decaying material needs to go, and when removed, that should not go in your compost because it will just transfer that to your compost. It needs to be bagged and trashed. Healthy foliage and stems just need to be left alone. Some hardy geraniums have a fall bloom, so you want to make sure that you're not doing a full clean-up of your area until they're done,' Lindsey advises.

2. Divide Hardy Geraniums

With hardy geraniums growing so quickly (they're an excellent choice of fast-growing groundcover), they can become overcrowded in time. Every few years, it's a good idea to divide these plants to keep them productive. You'll also end up with new clumps to plant elsewhere in the garden.

'These plants respond well to division in fall (best divided every 3-5 years). Make sure each new division has healthy growth points and some roots, keep the root collar level with the ground, and prepare planting holes matching the root system size,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

September (before hard fall frosts) is a good time to divide hardy geraniums, as you want the ground to be workable for lifting and replanting.

You can use a garden trowel (like this from Burpee) or a hori hori knife (like this from Amazon) to cleanly cut and separate the clumps.

3. Water During Dry Spells

Hardy geraniums are considered fairly drought-tolerant once established and are susceptible to issues of root rot and oversaturated soil.

'In September, as temperatures drop and evaporation slows, reduce the watering schedule to prevent soggy soil and root rot before the plant enters winter dormancy,' Marina advises.

However, if there are any late-summer heatwaves or prolonged periods of drought in September, give your hardy geraniums a soaking.

Using a soil moisture meter (I like this one from Amazon), check the soil before watering if you're unsure. Ideally, you should allow the top 1-2 inches dry out before watering again.

What to Shop