Most people are very busy during the summer. Family activities, holidays, and social functions all demand our attention, and sometimes the garden is the unfortunate one left behind. Even if you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, you can keep your outdoor space looking good.

To help you put together an achievable summer gardening checklist for when you are short of time, I consulted some experts. They picked their top summer jobs for a homeowner who can commit to gardening for 15 minutes a day in their busy lives. These focused jobs can keep a garden looking pleasant and full of blooms without exhaustive effort.

It is all about figuring out the high-priority tasks for each 15-minute block. Abandon any dreams of clearing the whole garden, but focus on what needs to be done each day. Key jobs like weeding, watering (you can get a soil moisture meter from Amazon), deadheading, feeding, supporting plants, propagating and more can all be done in small windows.

Stop Weeds From Seeding

It may never be the most glamorous or enjoyable task (though I do know some gardeners who love spending time getting rid of weeds), but weeding is always essential in summer.

The adage goes ‘one year of seeds, seven years of weeds’, and it is true that letting weeds set seed creates a snowball effect of issues. To stop future you having to deal with even more weeds, set aside some 15-minute blocks for this task.

‘Pulling weeds before they produce seeds can help prevent thousands of weed seeds from landing in your garden,’ says Justin Hancock, Horticulturist for Costa Farms. ‘And the younger a weed is, the smaller the root system and the easier it is to pull. So even if you just pull a couple of weeds every day, it can make a difference.’

Smaller weeds can be removed quickly with a garden hoe, but older or tap-rooted weeds need a more thorough approach. You need to use a type of weeder that guarantees you remove the entire plant and its roots to prevent it from resprouting. This can be a fork or a hand weeding tool like this at Walmart to lever weeds out of the soil.

As you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day, set realistic goals for weeding. Your borders or raised beds may be weedy, but remain focused on weeding quickly. ‘I would not worry about making every bed spotless, but I would absolutely pull anything that is about to seed,’ adds Alex Wright, the Founder of YardCalc.

Water to Keep Plants Alive

There is no escaping that if you are gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, much of that time may be taken up by watering plants in hot weather. However, be selective about what you focus on, as some plants need more watering in a heatwave than others.

‘Focus on keeping plants, especially this year's additions, alive,’ recommends Marian Keith, Horticulturist at Newfields in Indianapolis, Indiana. Also, seedlings and plants growing in pots in container gardens need to be at the top of your watering hit-list.

Water deeply to deliver the moisture to the roots. You should ideally water the garden in the morning, so plants have time to hydrate before temperatures rise. You can water in the evening, but take extra care to water the base of the plant, not the foliage.

Alex Wright advocates for proactive planning. He recommends using watering tools or a timer, so this time-consuming task doesn’t take up your 15 minutes of gardening time.

‘Drip irrigation or even a basic hose timer changes the whole equation,’ he says. ‘Watering is super important, especially for containers, raised beds, and new plantings, but it is also one of the easiest garden jobs to automate.

‘If you only have a few minutes a week, I would rather use that time on the things a timer cannot do.’

You can get an automatic timer at Garden in Minutes that has a simple dial for set-up and two outlets – perfect for attaching to drip irrigation, soaker hoses, sprinklers, or just a garden hose.

Deadhead to Extend the Show

Flower beds and container displays may start to look past their best as the first blooms go over. If you can commit time to deadheading flowers during summer, you can extend your display of blooms and keep the garden full of color.

Christina Stembel, founder and CEO of Farmgirl Flowers, admits she often has 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes in the evening to garden. She picks tasks according to what needs most attention each day.

‘One day it's deadheading because the blooms are literally dead and failing to remove them will probably prevent a second flush. The next day it's weeding because the weeds are gobbling up all the resources,’ says Christina.

‘Right now, my 15 minutes in the morning is usually spent deadheading to keep our flowers flowering through August and into September.’

Removing the old flowers tidies borders and stops plants putting energy into producing seeds. That energy goes back into developing buds and opening new flowers. If you can find time to deadhead flowers in August, your garden will keep putting on a glorious show for longer.

A pair of pruning snips (such as these Japanese pruning snips on Amazon) or shears is a perfect tool for deadheading. You can snap some blooms off between your fingers and thumb, but you must be careful not to damage any stems or unopened flowers.

Fertilize Plants in Containers

Summer can be taxing for any plants in pots. The warm temperatures mean the limited moisture in the soil disappears quickly, and nutrients quickly leach from the containers. It can leave plants starved and looking past their best in summer.

‘When I have 15 minutes to spare, I turn my attention to my potted plants,’ says Tenielle Jordison, garden content editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘They can start to look a little tired after such a hot summer, so I give them some extra nourishment.’

It shouldn’t take long to rejuvenate container plants and help to keep annual flowers blooming for longer in pots.

‘If the potting mix is hard and compacted, I first gently loosen it with a hand fork. Then, a balanced all-purpose liquid fertilizer (like this TPS one on Amazon) gives my plants a quick boost,’ adds Tenielle.

‘A layer of compost or potting mix can also be helpful, replenishing nutrients and topping up soil that has depleted over time, whether from watering or decomposition.’

You can get a bag of organic potting mix at Burpee to top up containers and give them a late summer boost.

Check For Disease

There can be many potential diseases around in the summer. Warm, humid weather, along with garden watering mistakes like soaking the foliage, leads to common diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, blight, and more, which trouble both ornamental and edible plants.

When it comes to diseases or summer garden pests, it is best to act fast and nip problems in the bud to stop them from spreading. As you are out gardening for 15 minutes a day, keep your eyes peeled for fungal coatings on leaves, yellowing foliage, or other markings.

‘Just like with weeds, diseases are easier to deal with if you catch them early,’ says Justin Hancock. ‘Removing an affected leaf at the start of an infection can help stop that infection from spreading further. And it keeps your garden looking better.’

Always clean your pruning tools with sanitizing sprays or wipes (available at Walmart) after removing any diseased leaves, to prevent spreading the issue to other plants.

Alternatively, you can get a ready-to-use copper fungicide at Amazon that gardeners can use to treat many diseases, including mildews, blight, black spot, and more.

Check Plants Are Supported

Christina Stembel adds that another of her regular 15-minute jobs is ‘adding more supports to the dahlias so they don't topple over from the weight of the heads’. While out in the yard, gardeners should also take time to check their plant supports to ensure they are fully protected from wind damage or buckling under the weight of flowers or fruit.

Top-heavy flowers like dahlias, delphiniums, peonies, or phlox, or weighty fruit-bearing crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, or eggplant all need strong supports. Dry soil will contract in the summer and can loosen stakes like bamboo canes or wooden posts. Check that your plant supports are firm in the ground, and push them deeper as required.

These plants can also need new plant ties to keep them supported by the posts. Add any new ties as needed to stop stems snapping and ruining potential flowers or crops. Always use soft plant ties, such as these Velcro garden ties at The Home Depot, and never use wire or hard plastic as they can rub and even snap the stems.

Do Some Quick Propagation to Plug Gaps

Extreme summer heat can take its toll around the garden. If your garden has experienced losses, don’t just rue lost plants. There are new ones you can replace them with.

That list includes heat-tolerant perennials you can plant in August, like coneflowers or black-eyed Susan, to fill gaps and enjoy a fall display. And there are fast-growing flowers to sow in August, like calendula or sweet alyssum, that have time to give you late-season blooms.

Sedum ranks among the former, a low-maintenance perennial you can add for late-summer and fall blooms that will attract pollinators.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, suggests a quick and easy way to grow sedums without needing to head to the garden center and spend money on new plants.

'I've lost quite a few annuals to the heatwave this year, so I've been filling gaps in my containers with a super quick propagation trick,’ she reveals.

‘I snip short, single stems off a lovely trailing sedum, which I love for its blue-grey foliage and tolerance of full sun. I immediately pop them into gaps and sprinkle with water, and within a week I can see new growth.

‘It is the easiest and most reliable plant I have ever multiplied, and it's ideal for right now, when the temperatures are still high.'

You can also take plant cuttings of sedums and start them in pots, rather than place them in the garden. If you only have 15 minutes in the garden, getting new plants for free seems like a very effective use of your time.

What to Shop

If you prefer low-maintenance backyard ideas to intensive gardening, our guide to ‘the 10 minute garden’ might be perfect for you. It features inspirational ideas for a glorious garden that needs just 10 minutes of maintenance a week.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Shower curtains can make or break your bathroom design. The material, print, and length all come into consideration, but have you thought about the height you're hanging them at?

Think of your shower curtain ideas like you would the window treatments in your living room or bedroom – hanging them from ceiling height to floor level makes a room look larger and more elevated, and the same applies if you want to make your stylish shower curtains look more custom and luxurious.

It's the designer secret we should all be using in our own bathrooms, and it's an easy, affordable swap. Here's why full-length shower curtains are the answer to luxury bathroom schemes, and how to get the look quickly and easily. You'll wonder why you never tried it sooner.

Too often, shower curtains are viewed as purely practical features, with a bit of thought given to the color or pattern. But it's a design feature that should be just as considered as the wall color or the tiles you introduce – it has just as much influence over the atmosphere and aesthetic of your bathroom ideas.

'Taking a shower curtain all the way to the ceiling instantly makes a bathroom feel taller and more considered. Rather than reading as a functional afterthought, it becomes an architectural element that softens the space and adds a sense of luxury. The continuous drop also creates cleaner lines and gives the room a more bespoke feel,' says interior designer Nina Litchfield.

A full-length shower curtain running from the ceiling is a great way to make a small bathroom look bigger, too, as it eliminates the gap above the curtain that can make a room feel stubby. It's a detail that changes the way your eye is drawn around the room, especially where lower ceilings or small windows need to be accommodated.

'If you're designing in a small space, with a lower ceiling and no cornice, for example, then to take the shower curtain to the ceiling is a clever trick to consider. This works particularly well if the bath is located in an alcove. The eye is drawn upwards to the ceiling, which creates the illusion of more height rather than chopping up the vertical space with a gap above the curtain, which you get if you use a pole,' says Jess Daw of Daw & Co Interior Design.

'Pay attention to length and fullness,' adds Rebecca Bridges, founder of HOUSE OF DRENNAN, who notes that the finer details are key to a high-end look. 'The curtain should nearly reach the floor and have enough fabric to create beautiful folds rather than looking stretched across the rod. We like to pleat ours just like drapery. Hardware matters, too – a pretty rod and drapery rings are an easy way to elevate the look.'

There are a couple of installation options here to create a seamless finish. Where possible, choose a curtain track that mounts directly on the ceiling, as it creates a hidden fixture with no visible attachments. This Flexible Bendable Ceiling Curtain Track from Amazon can be curved around showers that don't sit in a straight line, like a freestanding tub, for example. If flexibility isn't a concern, the VEVOR Ceiling Curtain Track Set from Target is a great option, with an easy-to-customize length.

If a ceiling track isn't possible in your bathroom, you can still create a chic floor-to-ceiling shower curtain look with a regular wall-to-wall curtain pole. Tension rods are ideal if you need something easy to adjust or if you're renting – just make sure you choose a design that can withstand the damp conditions, like this Ivilon Spring Tension Rod from Amazon.

No shower is complete without a beautifully designed shower curtain, and it's a choice you need to get right to get that elevated floor-to-ceiling look. 'Bathrooms are utilitarian by nature, all hard surfaces and, more often than not, everything in them is new. A shower curtain is one of the simplest ways to warm one up. It's a large expanse of fabric in a room that has very little, and it softens the space in every sense, including the way it sounds,' explains Kate Cox, co-founder of HÁM.

'Material and construction matter as well. We generally avoid 100% linen, which can stretch and sag over time in a humid environment; cotton blends or performance acrylics tend to hold their shape better. Whenever possible, we also look for double-width fabric so the curtain can be made without a center seam. A generous amount of fullness, a properly weighted hem, and a separate waterproof liner will help the curtain hang beautifully while remaining practical for everyday use,' explains interior designer Anna Knight.

Having a separate shower curtain and liner is preferable for a blend of unrivaled style and function, but you'll need to be intentional about how you hang them so the liner isn't visible. To make the process easier, use a double shower curtain rod, like this Double Curve Adjustable Shower Curtain Rod from Lowe's, which can be bent to follow the lines of a rounded ceiling or alcove opening.

When it comes to choosing the right design for your shower curtain, designers recommend choosing something that feels harmonious with the rest of your bathroom. 'We often favor subtle woven textures or delicate prints that feel more like curtains than traditional shower screens, helping the bathroom feel warmer and more inviting,' says Nina.

'A plain fabric with a simple contrast trim to the leading edge and base, or a ruffle hem, feels more elegant,' adds Jess. 'If you want something more playful, a stripe or pattern can work really well if the tiles are quieter in their design.'

Whichever color, pattern, or design you choose, execution is crucial to make floor-to-ceiling shower curtains look truly luxurious. Try to keep the curtain rings or attachments hidden for a more custom look, and make sure your curtains are the perfect length – not too far off the floor, but not pooling at the bottom, either.

'Like any drapery, a shower curtain almost always looks more considered when it is taken all the way to the ceiling,' Anna concludes. 'The additional height creates a sense of drama, makes the room feel taller, and gives the treatment a more tailored, custom appearance.'

Shop Shower Curtains

Swapping from a standard shower curtain to a design that flows from the ceiling is an easy way to make any bathroom feel a bit more luxurious and considered, even if you're designing on a budget. To find the perfect design, check out our edit on the best places to buy shower curtains.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

After a summer of running the air conditioning hard, it’s almost time to turn our attention to essential HVAC maintenance ahead of fall. And if there’s one task our experts say you shouldn’t put off, it’s replacing a dirty air filter.

A clogged filter can force your system to work harder, reducing airflow and efficiency. In more extreme cases, it can even contribute to system failure. The good news? Replacing it is quick, simple, and relatively inexpensive, making it one of the easiest fall maintenance jobs to check off your list.

Here, HVAC pros share why it's a fall home maintenance tip that demands immediate attention.

As Vanessa Ferrara, Co-Owner of Dang It’s Hot!, a family-owned air conditioning company serving South Florida, explains, your air filter is your AC system's first line of defense against dust, pet hair, and other airborne debris.

'After a long, hot summer, especially in warmer climates like South Florida where the AC runs almost non-stop, a dirty filter can cause restrictions and reduce the airflow through the system,' she says.

'Restricted airflow can make your AC system work harder, run less efficiently, and in more severe cases, cause the system to freeze up. Checking the filter is a simple and inexpensive step to keep your system operating properly,' while avoiding dust and dirt increasing your energy bills.

Alex Marsh, CEO and Founder of Bearcat Heating & Cooling in Spokane, Washington, agrees. 'Think of the air filter like the oil in your car,' he stresses. 'You wouldn't run a full summer of hard driving and then skip the oil change before a road trip, but that's exactly what happens to most furnaces and ACs every fall.

'And you're about to seal the house up for the season, with windows shut, everyone indoors, and the system recirculating the same air, so a fresh filter matters most exactly when fall allergens like ragweed and mold are peaking.'

How to Replace Dirty Air Filters

Fortunately, says Shawn Bell, General Manager, Operations of Texas Ace Service Heating & Air, 'Swapping air filters is one of the rare DIY maintenance tasks that requires no tools and minimal knowledge.'

To begin with, ensure your AC is turned off at the thermostat, and locate your filter. Then, simply remove the old filter from the filter slot and replace it with a new one of the same size.

'Match the filter to the printed dimensions on the old filter's frame, and insert it with the airflow direction arrow facing toward the unit,' adds Shawn. 'Filters are typically between one and three inches thick.'

More than anything, ensure you don't put the new air filter in backwards. 'The airflow arrow must point toward the furnace or air handler (the direction air travels, away from the room and toward the blower),' warns Alex. 'Putting it in backwards is the number one DIY mistake, and it chokes the exact airflow you're trying to protect.'

Then, turn your HVAC system back on, and write the date directly on the new filter when you install it, so you'll know roughly when it needs changing again.

'Don't rely only on the "change every 30 to 90 days" rule,' though, shares Vanessa. 'How quickly a filter gets dirty depends on the home, pets, how often the system runs, and even the time of year. Check it regularly and replace it when it's visibly dirty.'

What to Shop

While you'll need to shop for the exact air filter to fit your system, below I've curated a selection of six items that make it easy to clean your HVAC system in between replacing the filters.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Experts

'Key Note: Match the filter to the system; jumping to the highest MERV can restrict airflow on equipment that wasn't designed for it, so check your specs first,' concludes Alex. 'For most homes, MERV 8 to 11 is the sweet spot, and skip the cheap fiberglass filters (MERV 1 to 4); they protect the fan but barely clean the air,' which is a common mistake compromising your home's air quality.

For more HVAC advice, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

As we edge towards the end of the growing season, many plants are slowing down and reaching the end of their lifecycle. Both annuals and perennials produce an abundance of seed during this time, and there's often more than enough for you to collect, save, and grow free plants next year.

Collecting seeds and growing your own plants is not only highly satisfying and cost-effective, but it can also help you reduce any associated packaging waste and emissions when buying seed. You can stock up on paper envelopes from Amazon to store them correctly over winter until it's time to plant in spring. These are also great for gifting to family and friends to start their own garden.

Here, our experts share their tips for harvesting popular seeds in August and how to safely store them.

1. Cosmos

Easy to grow and hugely popular, cosmos are perfect for brightening up a border or adding to a container. With cosmos varieties available in soft pastel shades and vibrant hues, these annual flowers are a versatile and dependable favorite.

As with the others mentioned, waiting until the morning dew has dried or after a few rain-free days will help ensure those you collect are dry. Collect the seed heads by snipping them off with some precision snips, such as these Felco F322 pruning snips, available from Amazon, when they are brown and dry to the touch.

Leave the seedheads to dry further on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse on paper towel before storing them somewhere cool, dry, and dark over the winter.

Mintee Kalra, Founder of Mintee Kalra Studio, also suggests: 'Don't collect seed from every flower. Be selective. Save seed from the healthiest, longest-blooming plants with the strongest form. You're quietly shaping the future of your garden.'

2. Calendula

Blooming from spring until the fall, calendulas are ideal not only for your garden but, being edible flowers, are perfect to jazz up a salad with. Additionally, Calendula officinalis is an excellent companion plant for your beans and tomatoes.

To collect calendula seeds in August, leave some flowers to fade and form seedheads. Once the petals have dropped and the seedheads turned from green to gray-brown, snip them off. However, to reduce any chances of mold, Mintee advises, 'Harvest only once the seed heads have fully matured and dried on the plant.'

Once completely dry, you can gently separate the curved seeds for storage.

When it comes to choosing storage vessels, Amy Martin, landscape designer and the founder of Plant and Bloom Design Studio, advises, 'storing them in a breathable container, never plastic. Small paper envelopes are my favorite; they label easily and stack neatly until it's time to sow next season.'

Once placed in a labeled envelope, you can organize them in a box, such as this Pethiy moisture-proof seed storage box, available to purchase from Walmart.

3. Zinnia

Another flower seed to collect in August is zinnia. Adored for their pops of subtle or vivid color and enticing shapes and sizes, zinnia varieties are wide-ranging.

To keep these annuals flowering as long as possible, regular deadheading is required. However, to allow the seedheads to form and dry out before winter arrives, you may want to leave some blooms to go to seed in late summer.

In warmer parts, zinnias can self-seed, but to make sure you have a free supply of zinnia plants next year, you need to collect some as well.

To harvest zinnia seeds, once the petals are long gone and the seedheads are dry and crispy, remove the entire seedhead and separate the arrow-shaped seeds to store.

To ensure high germination rates, Mintee suggests, ‘Store seeds somewhere cool, dry, and dark in paper envelopes or packets, which allow any remaining moisture to dissipate. Heat, humidity, and light are the quickest ways to reduce seed viability.’

If you have never collected flower seeds before, a seed-collecting kit that provides everything you need to harvest and store seeds can be a great place to start. Orionstar seed storage organizer kit, is available to purchase from Amazon.

4. Sunflowers

Grown to brighten up the garden and as a cut flower, sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are not only easy to grow but easy to collect seed from.

Depending on the sunflower variety and time of sowing, sunflowers may not be ready to harvest their seed from until early fall. However, earlier varieties, especially when grown in hot, dry areas, may well be ready for collection.

As an important food source, you will want to leave some seeds for the birds, but sunflowers can produce hundreds of seeds, so there are enough to go around.

To collect sunflower seeds, cut off the brown, dry, faded flower head and place it on a tray or sheet. Rub and, if necessary, gently pull away the seeds. To ensure they are free of moisture, place the seeds on a paper towel for 2-3 days before placing them in an envelope.

Labeling your seed envelopes is essential for clear organization. But Mintee further recommends, 'Label more than just the plant name. I like to include the collection date and one observation about the parent plant: 'longest flowering,' 'best color,' or 'most vigorous.' Over time, those notes become a quiet record of the garden you're cultivating.'

5. Nigella

Prized for its delicate and whimsical flowers, nigella, or Love-in-a-Mist as it is affectionately known, is one to sow in the fall and is a lot tougher and hardier than it looks. Additionally, as a self-seeding annual, it tends to naturally come back year after year.

Once its intricate blooms fade, nigella develops balloon-like seed pods that turn brown and rattle when they are ready to be collected.

To avoid losing the tiny seeds, cut off a stem holding several seed pods with a pair of pruners, such as these Okatsune 103 bypass pruners available from Amazon, and place them in a paper bag upside down. Shake gently and the seeds will fall out of the pods and collect at the bottom of the bag.

6. Sweet Pea

One of my favorite flower seeds to collect in August is the sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus). A stalwart of cottage gardens and cut flower gardens, their beautiful and scented flowers are equally at home scrambling up an obelisk as they are in a vase indoors.

Producing a profusion of flowers over the summer, you will want to deadhead sweet peas regularly to stop them setting seed. However, come late summer when they begin to wind down, you can let some flowers form pods so you can collect sweet pea seeds for next year.

Once the seed pods are brown and brittle, you can cut them off and bring them inside to dry out further. After they have completely dried, you can collect the round, black seed by splitting the pods open and storing them in a glass jar.

Whether you gift the seeds to a friend or sow them and pass young plants on to a neighbor, sweet peas are always gratefully received.

Airtight glass jars are available to purchase from Walmart.

What to Shop

Having collected your flower seeds this August, you may be wondering how long you can store the seeds for. The answer depends on the type, as some seeds should be sown within a year, and others seem to last indefinitely. However, annual flower seeds tend to remain viable for 1-2 years before their germination rates begin to decrease. But there are exceptions, and if stored correctly, they can last longer.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Coneflowers steal the show during August. Clustered together, in full bloom, they make a dazzling sight with their long petals, in delicious shades of dusky pink, vanilla and soft white shining in contrast against the raised dark centers.

Magnets for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, these sun loving perennials are easy to care for and their appeal lasts long after the petals fade. Not only do their striking seedheads add texture and seasonal interest when left intact on the upright stems but they are packed with nutritious seeds that are highly prized by garden finches, bluejays and cardinals throughout fall and winter.

Knowing how to grow coneflowers (echinacea) - is pretty straightforward but there are some care tasks that should be tackled during August. Equip yourself with sturdy pair of Felco Pruning Snips from Amazon and read more about when to remove and leave fading flowers, damaged stems and other late summer coneflower issues.

Stop Feeding Coneflowers For Healthier Plants

August is the time to stop fertilizing coneflowers, in fact these short-lived perennials should rarely need feeding if the growing conditions are right.

'Native plants adapted to the local region don't need fertilization, especially when grown in healthy soil,' says Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation, Mary Phillips. 'Excess fertilizer can actually encourage lush, weak foliage growth at the expense of blooms. Instead, focus on building healthy soil with organic matter such as compost and leave natural plant material in place where possible.'

Consider the best coneflowers varieties for your plot; there are plenty of irresistible offerings at Burpee, including Butterfly Kisses Echinacea Purpurea.

Work well rotted organic compost such as this R&M compost from Amazon into the soil around the base of the plant or learn how to make compost using your own garden and kitchen waste.

Manage deadheading coneflowers for a smooth transition into fall

Each raised and slightly bristly coneflower centre harbors a surprising number of seeds, presenting the wildlife loving gardener with a tricky dilemma. When is it best to stop deadheading blooms - pausing the formation of future blooms - and leave the seedheads to die back naturally?

'By late summer, it's a good time to start shifting the mindset from maintaining the garden to creating wildlife,' says Mary. 'Rather than cutting coneflowers back as soon as flowers fade, allow the stalks and seedheads to remain standing through fall and winter. They provide food for birds, structure for the garden, and places for insects to shelter and overwinter.'

Can't bear to bid the vibrant blooms goodbye? then selective deadheading can prove a handy compromise, as Mary explains. 'Gardeners who want to extend lowering can selectively deadhead some blooms while leaving others to mature into seedheads.'

Coneflower is one of the best plants for attracting American Goldfinches into your yard. Provide a natural feast for the eyes and seed-eating birds by weaving 'Ruby Star' Coneflower from Nature Hills through a mixed bed of ornamental grasses or fill planters with attention grabbing varieties such as native 'Green Twister' coneflower and the sweeping petals of 'Pale Purple' Coneflower, both from Plant Addicts.

Only Remove Dead Or Diseased Stems

There's no need to routinely cut back coneflower stems at the end the summer. Robbing the plant of late blooms, valuable seedheads and the opportunity to replenish its energy reserves before winter dormancy, experts now advise to leave the plant to die back naturally.

That said, there are exceptions. 'It is important to cut back any diseased or dead steams in Fall or even in Winter dormancy,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This will help protect the plant against any future infestation or fungal issues the following Spring when the new growth emerges. When cutting back the dead stems, prune to about 1-2 inches above the ground using a clean pruners.'

Hand shears such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Walmart will do the job, but remember to limit the spread of any fungal spores by disposing of infected plant material in the household garbage rather than the compost heap.

Stake Coneflower As And When Needed

August is the last month where coneflowers are actively growing, so it pays to let them harvest all the energy they can, to strengthen root systems ready for the dormant season and following spring, when growth resumes.

Although fairly robust plants, occasional summer storms can take their toll and damage stems and foliage. Provide support to help aid stem recovery, as landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman explains.

'If staking is needed, utilize 3-5 stakes around the mass with loose twine. Don’t try to stake each stem, rather stake it in a bunch to retain the strength of the massing,'

While regular bamboo canes such as these from Walmart will do the job, they look very visible. Instead opt for an elegant metal peony support like this from Amazon or rustic spiral plant supports from Agriframes.

Save Some Seeds To Grow On

Coneflowers are prolific seed producers and late summer is the perfect time to harvest them. Whether you are looking to gather and raise your own plants from seed or pass seeds on to friends, it's time to get gathering and discover the seed harvesting mistakes to avoid.

Look for fading blooms with dark, plump and firm central cones, and snip them off with 4-5in (20-22.5cm) stem intact. Place stems upside down in a paper bag, with ends of the stem protruding, secure the bag around the stems with a length of twine a hang in a warm, dry yet well ventilated spot for 1 to 2 weeks.

Once dry, the seeds will fall from the seedhead into the bag. Use these garden tweezers from Walmart to remove the chaff and stems. Store seed until needed in these brown kraft bags with window, from Amazon.

What to Shop

Keep these eye-catching perennials in good shape for next year by learning how to winterize coneflowers in 5 steps.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There are a few elements of a kitchen that you really need to get right the first time – those features that aren't easily replaced, are often expensive, and cause a lot of upheaval to change. Your cabinetry is one of them, so choosing a design that never goes out of style is key.

There are plenty of kitchen cabinet ideas that feel classic and safe, but there are only a few that designers consider truly timeless. It's the ones that never appear in trend reports, but quietly stay relevant as years go by that you should be considering.

From classic door styles to materials that stand the test of time, these are the three kitchen cabinet styles, designs, and details designers say never date, creating a timeless kitchen you will never tire of, even as your style changes.

The Style: Classic Shaker

Few designs prove more enduring than a Shaker kitchen. This style of cabinetry has been around for decades, blending into both modern and traditional schemes and adding dimension to designs without taking over the room.

'I think beautifully made Shaker cabinetry is one of those things that will always feel timeless. Its appeal is in its simplicity and versatility – the clean lines and framed doors provide enough architectural interest without dictating a particular style,' says Carina Raymond, founder of Studio Raymond.

'It has a wonderful ability to adapt; Shaker can feel very classic in a country house, but equally fresh and contemporary in the right setting. I think that flexibility is what makes it endure. It also gives you a lovely, quiet backdrop for the elements that can change more easily over time.'

It's that versatility that makes Shaker cabinets not just popular, but incredibly timeless. Because it can transition between styles and colors, it's a cabinet choice that grows and evolves with you, as Tom Howley, creative design director of the eponymous kitchen design brand, explains.

'Shaker-style cabinetry is a classic for a reason. It’s a look that can evolve with you – you can be bold with color, experiment with different hardware, or introduce more contemporary finishes, while the cabinetry itself provides that sense of permanence and quality.'

The Material: Long-Lasting Oak

Even if you can change the color of your kitchen cabinets over time, you can't change the cabinet material without a full refit. So, getting it right the first time you design your kitchen is key, and for designers, it's all about quality, with oak cabinets taking the top spot for timeless appeal.

'I think a well-made traditional kitchen cabinet will always stand the test of time, but that doesn’t mean contemporary cabinetry can’t be timeless too. For me, it’s much more about the quality of the cabinetry than following a particular style. A beautifully made solid door with good-quality internals will age incredibly well and won’t show the wear and tear that cheaper cabinetry can show,' says Melissa Hutley, co-founder of Hutley & Humm.

'I’m a big believer in choosing materials that can evolve with you. Natural oak is a wonderful example as it develops a beautiful patina over time, but can also be painted or stained later if you want to change the feel of the kitchen. Handles, countertops and other details can be updated as your tastes change, while good-quality units can remain in place for many years.'

The Detail: Decorative Moldings

Sometimes, the best way to create a cabinet design that transcends kitchen trends is to choose something unique. And when designers want to create something that feels both personalized and timeless, they look to hand-carved details and more decorative moldings.

'I love a cabinet with classic hand-carved details, like an inset with chamfered edges and softly carved corners. Think Shaker-style cabinetry with a little extra ornamentation. The design is timeless and architectural while still retaining a sense of character and historic charm,' says interior designer Kathy Kuo.

'Details like these are rooted first and foremost in craftsmanship, and that’s why their appeal never fades. Those subtle chamfers and carved corners are borrowed from historic architectural millwork, carrying the elegance of a centuries-old home. And when the construction methods and finishes are equally as considered, the cabinetry is bound to age gracefully over time.'

The beauty of this kitchen cabinet style is that you can really adapt it to suit your space. Most often, Shaker doors are chosen as the base, then adapted and embellished to balance classic style and unique design, whether it's a micro-Shaker design or something more ornate.

'I’m particularly drawn to cabinetry that has a little architectural detail – a simple Shaker door, perhaps with a beautiful moulding or considered paneling. It gives you a timeless foundation that you can then make completely your own,' adds Sophie Pringle, Interior Designer and Founder of Pringle & Pringle.

The kitchen cabinets that never go out of style are the ones that feel classic and put quality and craftsmanship at the forefront. While trends like fluted cabinets or rippled glass feel playful and different, they don't have the same longevity. Stick to timeless cabinets, then experiment with hardware and decor that can easily be changed over time.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

I love growing herbs on my patio, where I can enjoy their delicious fragrance every time I head out into the yard. Not to mention, many of them are super low-maintenance – I simply pot them up, position them somewhere sunny, and water during hot spells.

While growing some herbs is a bit more demanding and often requires frequent harvesting with herb scissors (which are available at Amazon), some Mediterranean herbs are less effort to keep in shape. I grow both rosemary and thyme, which look beautiful even when I forget to water and haven't pruned in a while.

One of the main reasons these are herbs that thrive on neglect is they prefer their soil to fully dry in between watering and don't demand fertilizer. Here, I talk through five of the best herbs to grow if you want lots of flavor for minimal effort.

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is the number one choice of low-effort herb to grow. Native to the Mediterranean, it thrives in full sun, is drought-tolerant, doesn't need feeding, and doesn't require frequent pruning to maintain its neat, upright shape.

Growing rosemary is easy, with varieties like 'Arp' (which you can find at Plant Addicts) being hardy across zones 6-10. The one thing to note is that not all types of rosemary are frost-tolerant, so you may need to overwinter rosemary to ensure it makes it through to next spring.

Rosemary can be grown as bigger fragrant shrub, or you can grow rosemary in a pot. Whatever the case, giving it an occasional trim to maintain its shape will reward you with aromatic sprigs to cook with.

You can also pick up rosemary starter plants at Walmart, or shop rosemary seeds from Burpee to grow it from scratch.

2. Thyme

Just like rosemary, thyme (USDA zones 5-9) is a drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb that loves full sun, infrequent watering, and doesn't demand fertile soil.

For the best flavor, give thyme 6-8 hours of direct sun, which will trigger the production of essential oils. You can let its soil dry out in between watering, with too much water causing root rot.

As for its growing medium, thyme does well in poorer, sandy soil over fertile, moisture-retentive compost.

I grow 'Silver Queen' thyme which beautifully spills over the edge of its pot. You can find thyme plants at Walmart or use these Amazon thyme seeds to grow a new plant.

3. Oregano

Oregano is one of the best herbs for getting a big harvest for little effort. It loves direct sun and poor soil, it's drought-tolerant, and its beautiful flowers attract pollinators.

It's best not to fertilize oregano, as this can encourage soft new growth over essential oil production. Likewise, you should harvest oregano to keep it growing by taking cuttings above leaf nodes. This will help maintain its bushy shape.

It's best to give oregano well-draining soil, as it doesn't enjoy soggy conditions. Bear in mind it can spread fast, so a container with a drainage hole is ideal (like these terracotta pots on Amazon).

Oregano grows across USDA zones 4-10, and you can order oregano plants from Amazon.

4. Chives

Not only do chives bring a fresh, delicate flavor to cooking, they also produce pretty blooms to add color to your herb garden. As alliums, this herb produces purple or pink pom-pom flowers in spring and summer.

As for growing chives (USDA 3-9), these perennial herbs are highly undemanding.

They prefer consistently moist soil, but are very forgiving if you forget to water them thanks to the water storage in their bulbs and leaves. Likewise, they can grow in both full sun and partial shade, and return reliably after dying back in winter.

When harvesting chives, use gardening snips (like these Fiskars ones from Amazon) to cut at the base of the plant, rather than the tips. This will encourage fresh growth for a continual harvest.

Find chive seeds at Burpee.

5. Lemon Balm

Lemon balm is on the list of herbs that thrive on neglect because it's super forgiving. As a member of the mint family, it's hardy across USDA zones 3-9, copes well with short period of drought (though it prefers consistent moisture), and is highly resistant to pests and diseases.

Even if you do forget to water lemon balm, it will bounce back quickly. Pruning lemon balm will give it vigor again – just give it a chop if it's leggy and it will soon put out fresh new growth.

It's easy to harvest lemon balm, too. Pick the young leaves to add into teas, desserts, and salads.

It's important to note it does spread rapidly like other types of mint, so it's often best to grow lemon balm in a pot.

Find a lemon balm plant at Plant Addicts, or grow it with these lemon balm seeds from Botanical Interests.

What to Shop

No matter which herbs you add to your garden, make sure to read up on herb gardening mistakes to avoid. This includes not harvesting to encourage more growth and overcrowding your plants.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

We may be nearing the end of summer, but sweltering temperatures show no sign of subsiding. July marked the hottest month ever for the contiguous United States,* and the August forecast only predicts more major-to-extreme heat risks.

It's certainly not time, therefore, to put any air conditioning units back into storage, or too late to invest if you haven't already. And if the one thing holding you back is worrying about the aesthetics, our HVAC experts are on hand to advise.

Here, they share how to make portable air conditioner window seals look more attractive − to keep your home cool without compromising on style.

1. Purchase the Right Kit for Your Specific Window Style

'The biggest thing,' says Josh Mitchell, HVAC Expert and Founder of AirConditionerLab, 'is to start with the right window kit. A lot of ugly portable AC installations happen because someone is trying to make a standard slider kit work in a window it really wasn't designed for.'

For normal single- or double-hung windows, Josh suggests a rigid adjustable panel. 'When it's measured and fitted correctly, it can look almost like part of the window instead of an add-on,' he explains. 'If the manufacturer allows the panel to be trimmed, take the time to cut it to the actual opening. Fewer overlapping pieces and seams make a big visual difference.'

If your portable air conditioner didn't (or doesn't) come with this sealing plate, this Portable Air Conditioner Window Kit can be purchased separately at Amazon. Alternatively, the EUHOMY Portable Air Conditioner, also available at Amazon, comes with everything you need for installation, and is a portable AC unit we've previously tested and recommended.

Unfortunately, casement or crank-out windows tend to be tougher. 'For those, I really like the idea of having a clear acrylic or polycarbonate insert cut to fit the window, with a properly sized opening for the exhaust hose,' he adds. 'A local glass or plastics shop can usually make one.

'It costs a little more than a fabric zipper-style window seal, but the finished installation can look dramatically better, and you don't lose the entire view through the window.'

2. Use Weatherstripping to Close Small Gaps

Another simple trick is to use weatherstripping to weatherproof your windows and portable air conditioning unit.

'Weatherstripping also makes a difference,' says Josh. 'Instead of stuffing foam into visible gaps or covering everything with duct tape, use thin compressible weatherstripping behind the window panel where you can't see it.

'Frost King Vinyl Foam Weatherseal (available at Walmart) is a good example. It helps close small gaps but mostly disappears once everything is installed.'

If you have a visible seam that needs sealing, clear weatherseal tape, such as the Frost King Clear Plastic Weatherseal Tape, recommended by Josh and available at Amazon, is preferable to silver duct tape.

'It works well for this kind of thing,' he adds. 'The key is using as little as necessary and putting it on straight. Wrinkled clear tape isn't much prettier than wrinkled duct tape.'

3. Don't Forget About the Exhaust Hose

As Ross Palfrey, Owner at Harry's Home Comfort, highlights, while many people focus on the window, the hose is actually what often makes a setup look cluttered.

'Placing the unit closer to the window helps keep the hose straight instead of looping across the room,' he says. 'It looks tidier and can also help the unit run more efficiently,' helping to cool down a room faster.

Josh agrees, adding, 'You can have the nicest window seal in the world and ruin the whole effect with six feet of hose wandering across the room. Keep the portable AC reasonably close to the window and arrange the hose according to the manufacturer's installation requirements.'

4. Vent Through a Wall Instead

This won't be a viable option for everyone, particularly renters, but if you're able to install a more permanent air conditioner type, venting through a wall keeps your windows free.

'If you own the house and the portable AC is going to live in the same place every summer, there's also the more permanent option: Vent it through an exterior wall,' suggests Josh. 'A properly installed wall vent eliminates the window contraption entirely and can look much cleaner.'

However, as Josh advises, this is something you should have professionally evaluated. 'You don't want to start cutting holes through an exterior wall without knowing what's inside it or accidentally restrict the airflow the AC requires,' he adds.

5. Take Your Time Over the Installation

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, don't rush the installation, especially if you want to avoid making any costly HVAC mistakes.

'Measure carefully, hide the weatherstripping, minimize seams, and resist the temptation to reach for cardboard, towels, spray foam, and duct tape,' says Josh. 'Those things may save you on a 95-degree afternoon, but nobody is going to mistake them for interior design.'

What to Shop

If you're still struggling in the heat, I've rounded up six top-rated cooling essentials below. Whether you're looking to cool a room with fans or invest in a portable air conditioning unit, you can trust that these recommendations will keep you comfortable before fall weather sets in.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Meet the Experts

For cooling in a pinch, try your hand at making a DIY air conditioner.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

*Data from CBS News.

Sunflowers are a mainstay of my cutting garden. I grow lots of different varieties, and usually none of them require vey much attention from me at this time of year. This summer, however, is hitting a little differently.

This August, I am giving them a little more care and attention than I usually would, owing to the intense heatwaves and lack of rain we've experienced. The conditions mean my sunflower patch needs more TLC to stay healthy and blooming into fall.

The key, really, is to keep watering and redirecting the energy into new flower buds, and for that I need to keep my trusty Fiskars snips (which you can find at Target) to hand at all times. Here are the steps I'm taking to prolong my sunflower display for as long as possible.

Water Deeply

Hydration is king in the garden right now, and while this is not always possible for larger trees and your lawn, if you can direct water resources to your annual flowers they will thank you.

When watering plants in hot weather, it's always a good idea to do it in the morning, and water as deeply as you can.

Sunflowers need a lot of water, and especially those growing in containers, which will dry out more quickly than flowers in beds. Water at the base, rather than over the foliage, to direct all the moisture to those thirsty roots.

To make the job easier, I love my expandable Flexi Hose, from Amazon, which is quick to set up and move around the yard, and also very easy to store.

If you're not sure how much water your sunflowers need, a great value moisture meter (we love this one from Target) will tell you what you need to know.

If you're struggling with water resources, there are lots of ways to reuse household water in the garden in times of drought.

Keep Cutting and Deadheading

Don’t be afraid to cut sunflowers while they’re still looking fresh. Removing blooms for arrangements can encourage branching varieties to produce more flowers, while also giving you gorgeous indoor displays.

You also need to keep an eye on those flower heads that are spent, and can be snipped off. Deadheading your sunflowers will take all the energy away from the seedhead and back into the plant so that it can produce new flowers.

To make the job easy and prevent any strain on your hands or wrists, I always opt for a really good quality, clean pair of pruning snips. As a gardener and florist, I own several pairs, but am getting a lot of use from the Haus & Garten snips, available from Amazon, at the moment. I also love the red handles as they are impossible to lose in the yard!

Stake Very Tall Stems

Despite the seemingly-constant heat and dry weather, heavy rain and storms can materialize in August, and when they do it's a good idea to be prepared.

You can stake your tallest sunflowers to prevent them from falling and snapping in strong winds or heavy rain, which will come as a shock after a protracted dry spell.

Try to do this before they become too top heavy, and attach stems with the right plant ties to secure them.

An ideal type of stake would be bamboo, or these metal stake supports, from Amazon, which are very simple to add.

Leave A Few Seedheads For The Birds

American goldfinches, chickadees and other garden birds can make a sunflower patch a late-summer wildlife hotspot.

If you can, leave a few heads on your plants rather than clearing. These will develop into nutritious food for your garden birds, which will give them a boost before winter.

If birds are particularly enthusiastic, you can protect individual heads with fine mesh cover, such as these from Walmart, until the seeds are ripe, then remove it and let the birds enjoy them. Leaving the sturdy stems standing also provides useful structure in the garden as summer starts to fade.

What to Shop

Don’t over-fertilize sunflowers in August. If your plants are healthy and flowering well, there’s usually little benefit in giving them a late-season boost. Too much nitrogen can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, while also creating softer, more vulnerable growth. Instead, focus on consistent watering and deadheading to help extend the display.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

In August, hummingbirds get very busy in the garden. If you have hummingbird feeders expect plenty of hungry birds to gather in your yard as they stock up on essential nourishment for the gruelling migration journey that lies ahead. You can play a key role in supporting them as they prepare and encourage repeat visits during this important period.

No matter how large or small your backyard, following these simple wildlife garden ideas will create a welcoming haven for hummingbirds. With any luck many of your visitors will be returning birds, as these enchanting creatures are known to remember the gardens they've found food in previously.

Making sure your garden is planted with plenty of late-season nectar-giving flowers is key to attracting hummingbird activity in August, as it providing feeders to supplement their diet (red glass ones, such as this beautiful hummingbird feeder from Amazon, are ideal) together with plenty of fresh drinking water to help them cope with the heat. Follow these five expert tips and you may be lucky enough to still have hummingbirds in your yard as late as Halloween.

5 Ways To Help Hummingbirds In August

As summer starts to wind down find out how to attract hummingbirds to your garden in August. There's a hummingbird migration map you can follow too that includes info on spottings in your local area, and don't forget hummingbirds are overwintering on the Gulf Coast in greater numbers than in the past due to milder winters.

'April through September are the hummingbird months in the Northern Hemisphere, with May through August being the peak months of activity,' says Robert S Mulvihill, ornithologist at the National Avery.

'As females feed their young almost strictly on small insects, not on nectar, it's not uncommon for people to notice a big drop in the number of visits to their feeders in late June. But, after the young fledge and begin to become independent in July, the feeder activity will pick up again, and it will continue all the way through the fall migration, from August through September.'

The best hummingbird garden isn’t necessarily the largest one, and the following observations apply particularly in August. 'In my experience, consistency is what matters most,' says Siobhan Shaw, co-founder of Growing to Give.

'This means planting flowers that attract hummingbirds, and offering clean nectar, water, shelter, and a pesticide-free environment. Once hummingbirds discover a garden that reliably provides those things, they have every reason to return.'

You can find hummingbird nectar that is ready to use from Walmart, no diluting or mixing needed, and it has added minerals to help keep these beautiful creatures healthy.

1. Keep Natural Supplies Of Nectar Coming

Hummingbirds are attracted to yards that have food sources and a good mix of sun and shade, and they need a safe perch to sit on in between their meals, so a small tree or shrub near your feeders is always a good idea. It's also important to leave perennials blooming for longer, especially the ones hummingbirds love.

'Hummingbirds are attracted by the presence of reliable nectar sources, whether feeders, patches of red or orange garden flowers, and hummingbird-adapted wildflowers like cardinal flower and scarlet bee balm,' says Robert. Hummingbirds also love royal catchfly, the perfect native plant to provide them with a late-season source of nectar. Native honeysuckles are another good choice for hummingbirds in August.

To sustain their supercharged metabolisms, hummingbirds must eat once every 10 to 15 minutes and visit between 1,000 and 2,000 flowers per day, according to the National Audobon Society.

'So, make sure your outdoor space has lots of flowers of the type hummingbirds prefer,' says Robert. 'This is pretty much any red or orange flower having a long corolla tube, and lacking any structures that butterflies or bees could easily use as a perch.'

Another idea is these flowers to plant in August for hummingbirds that will help them on their journey south.

2. Put Feeders Back Up (If You Already Took Them Down)

If hummingbirds stopped visiting your yard in early summer you may have taken their feeders down, assuming there was no point keeping them up as the hummingbirds hadn't chosen your yard to nest in. Alternatively you may have taken them down because the young hummingbirds have moved out.

August is an important month to put the feeders back up. Migration lies ahead for hummingbirds so they need to build up their strength. The aim is to increase their body fat for the journey so they need a good supply of nectar. In addition newly fledged juveniles need to feed, and early migrants will be passing through too. So keep feeders up until October, as it's possible to get hummingbirds in your yard until late fall.

It's important to know where to place a hummingbird feeder too, even if you think you've got it nailed. It's a good idea to add several more feeders as migration gets closer, especially if you notice a dominant bird monopolizing a feeder.

'Hummingbird behavior can be aggressively territorial as birds fight over feeders,' says August Abbot, a certified avian specialist and founder of The Broken Birds Sanctuary. 'To keep the peace and make room add multiple feeders generously spaced apart and at different heights. Spacing feeders 8 or more feet apart gives birds their own feeding stations and reduces fighting.'

Keep feeders out of relentless direct heat (and avoid these other hummingbird feeder mistakes too), adds August. 'If a feeder gets too much sun, hang a sunshade over it to block the harsh mid-day heat or move it to a shadier location.'

3. Refill Feeders Regularly And Keep Them Clean

Prepare for hot August weather by making sure you refill feeders regularly, especially if you don't have a regular supply of nectar offered by red and orange flowers in the garden.

'Be sure that you fill and refill your hummingbird feeder frequently with a 4:1 solution of water to table sugar (not honey or brown sugar) that does not have red dye added. The red parts on commercial hummingbird feeders are more than enough to attract the birds, and red dyes can be harmful to them,' says Robert.

You can make up a supply of sugar water and keep it in your refrigerator for up to a week. Be sure to change the water in your feeders regularly, and clean them well between every refilling, at least every 2-3 days to prevent harmful bacteria and mold from developing. If it's very hot change the water every other day.

'Many people mix sugar and water over heat, with some thinking it needs to boil,' says August. 'Actually, it's as simple as stirring the sugar into hot water until it dissolves, which usually takes just a minute or two.'

Resist the urge to make the solution sweeter as this will make the hummingbirds thirstier, and August is such a dry month anyway. Instead try hanging a piece of fruit in a mesh bag to attract fruit flies, as insects are a major part of a hummingbird's diet too. Find out how to clean hummingbird feeders to keep these garden visitors happy.

Shop Hummingbird Feeders

4. Set Up A Mister Or Other Cooling Treat

'Water matters enormously, particularly if you live in the desert,' says Siobhan. 'Hummingbirds don’t simply use water the way larger birds do. I’ve watched them fly through a fine spray from a hose, hovering in the mist and getting their feathers wet. A gentle mister or moving water source can provide both drinking and bathing opportunities while also helping birds cope with intense heat.'

We fully recommend the Mademax solar bird bath fountain, available from Amazon. It's quick and easy to set up and turns a bird bath into an oasis for hummingbirds.

Try this Garden Hose Misting Nozzle from Amazon, which has an adjustable water spray pattern that includes delicate misting for cooling down hot birds.

Another idea is to offer shallow bird baths to bathe in as it's a great way to help hummingbirds beat the heat. When watering flowers as temperatures rise, especially if there isn’t normal rainfall, sprinkle water onto shrubs too as hummingbirds in August will enjoy sitting on the cool leaves to escape the heat.

Hummingbirds are attracted to yards that have food sources and a good mix of sun and shade, and they need a safe perch to sit on in between their meals, so a small tree or shrub near your feeders is also a good idea.

Always make sure there is a supply of fresh drinking water available too. 'Another essential need for hummingbirds is a clean water source,' says August. 'Yes, sometimes they just need a good old-fashioned drink of water or even a little bath or shower. Having a water feature or modest fountain within sight of your hummingbird feeder fulfils this need beautifully, especially during prolonged summer heat.'

5. Resist The Urge To Start Pruning The Garden

'I recommend that gardeners and landscapers resist the urge to do major pruning in August simply because summer is winding down,' says Siobhan. 'Hummingbirds may still be using shrubs and trees for shelter, and maintaining layers of vegetation gives them places to rest between feeding flights.'

Another important consideration for hummingbird migration in August is not to remove late-season flowers either. 'In our Arizona garden, penstemon, bottlebrush and salvia provide important nectar sources, and I like to keep them flowering for as long as possible,' says Siobhan.

These heat-tolerant plants can be especially valuable for hummingbirds in August, when the weather is brutally hot and natural nectar sources may be harder to find. 'I also encourage gardeners to plant for a succession of blooms so hummingbirds have something available as the seasons change.'

Discover more tips on how to care for hummingbirds in August in The Hummingbird Bible by Rowan T Wiedemann, available here from Amazon.

One final tip on how to care for hummingbirds in August: the amount of pests and predators in the garden escalates in high summer. Bees numbers rise in August and September, and they will of course be attracted to the nectar in the feeders.

Find out how to keep out ants, as well as preying mantis and spiders – all will be attracted to the feeders. Keep a close eye on them. Use easy to clean, low maintenance, ant and bee proof feeders. If racoons are a problem in your area bring the feeders in at night.

Love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Cosmos are at their best in August, filling flower beds and containers with a froth of daisy-like blooms in shades of white, pink, and crimson. If you grew cosmos from seed this year, August is the month when a little attention can keep plants flowering generously well into early fall.

If you want to grow cosmos, you’ll find they are relatively low-maintenance and easy to care for through the summer. There are also plenty of types of cosmos to choose from, offering different flower colors and forms for borders, containers, and cutting gardens.

Rather than fussing over them, concentrate on regular deadheading, watering when necessary, and giving tall plants a little support. These simple August tasks can help keep your plants healthy and flowering for weeks to come.

1. Keep Deadheading Cosmos

One of the most useful jobs to do with cosmos in August is deadheading – and yes, deadheading is one of those simple garden tasks that can make a noticeable difference. Once a flower has faded, snip it off just above a healthy set of leaves or a developing flower bud. A pair of fine garden snips makes this quick and precise.

For a budget-friendly option, the Felco F322 Pruning Snips are designed for precise trimming and are available from Amazon.

Deadheading prevents the plant from putting too much energy into producing seed and encourages it to keep making new flowers. It also keeps plants looking fresh, particularly in flower beds where faded blooms can quickly become noticeable. If you want cosmos to self-seed, however, you don’t need to remove every spent flower. Leave a few seedheads to mature toward the end of summer, particularly if you like the idea of cosmos returning in unexpected places next year.

Another option is the Corona ErgoCUT Dead Header, available from Lowe’s and specifically designed for removing spent flowers.

2. Water During Dry Spells

Established cosmos are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions, but container-grown plants need more regular attention. If you're learning how to water plants in a heatwave, check pots frequently during hot or dry August weather and water thoroughly when the potting mix feels dry. A watering wand, such as the Melnor 8-Pattern Soft Touch Watering Wand from The Home Depot, makes it easy to direct water around the roots without disturbing the plant.

Water at the base rather than over the foliage, ideally in the morning or evening. Cosmos are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but still benefit from a thorough drink during prolonged heat. For smaller containers, the Chapin 2-Gallon Tru-Stream Watering Can from The Home Depot is a practical option. Avoid keeping the potting mix soggy, as cosmos prefer well-drained conditions.

There’s usually no need to feed cosmos growing in the ground if they’re flowering well. Too much high-nitrogen fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so focus on consistent watering during extended dry spells.

3. Support Tall Plants

By August, some cosmos can become impressively tall, particularly if they’re growing in fertile soil. Heavy rain and summer winds can cause them to flop, so check plants regularly and add support before they fall over. The Luster Leaf Link-Ups Grow-Through Round Grid Plant Support from Target is a discreet option that helps keep stems upright, while Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon are useful for taller plants that need a little extra support.

Simple stakes, discreet plant supports, or twine can all do the job. Place supports around plants while they’re still upright, rather than trying to lift stems after they’ve collapsed. If you’re growing cosmos in a more informal, cottage-garden-style planting, a little flopping isn’t necessarily a problem. Letting stems lean into neighboring plants can create a relaxed effect, provided they aren’t smothering other flowers.

4. Cut Cosmos for the House

August is an excellent time to cut cosmos for a vase. I like to pick mine in the morning, when the stems are well hydrated and the petals have just opened. I remove the lower leaves and place the stems straight into water, then keep the vase somewhere cool and out of strong sunlight. I also change the water regularly to keep the flowers looking fresh.

For a simple arrangement, a Threshold Tall Glass Vase from Target works well for showing off long cosmos stems, while Floralife Flower Food, available on Amazon, can help extend vase life. I find that regular cutting encourages the plants to produce even more flowering stems, so I don’t hesitate to bring plenty indoors. A generous handful of cosmos makes a pretty late-summer arrangement, either on its own or mixed with other garden flowers.

5. Let Some Seedheads Develop

If you want to grow cosmos again next year, I like to leave a few flowers on the plant to go to seed toward the end of the season. Once the seedheads have dried and turned brown, collect the seeds on a dry day and store them somewhere cool and dry. I find these Glass Mason Jars from Amazon work well for keeping saved seeds dry and labeled until spring.

You can also leave a few seedheads in place and let them shed their seeds naturally. Cosmos can self-seed readily in suitable conditions, although young plants may not appear exactly where you expect them. Keep in mind that some cultivated varieties may not come true from saved seed, so the resulting plants can sometimes differ from the parent.

What Not to Do With Cosmos in August

There’s no need to cut back healthy cosmos simply because they’ve become tall. If your plants are flowering well, leave them be, apart from regular deadheading and a little support for wayward stems. August is also not the time to overfeed them. Cosmos are naturally vigorous, and overly rich soil can encourage lush foliage without giving you more blooms.

Instead, keep your August care simple: deadhead spent flowers, water during prolonged dry spells, support tall stems, and cut blooms regularly for the vase. With these few jobs taken care of, your cosmos can keep flowering well into fall, often until the first frost.

If you want more outdoor shopping advice and the latest garden news, sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

The colors considered most timeless and enduring are changing. Once a title reserved for clean whites and light grays, designers and homeowners alike are searching for hues that feel richer, more sophisticated, and more unique.

Which is exactly why aged kitchen colors are emerging as the most coveted palette. They are a darker take on neutrals, offering a kitchen color that feels more rooted in nature and layered in design. Think moody reds, rich browns, deep terracottas, and the darkest shades of smoky navy.

And designers say it's no fleeting kitchen color trend – these hues are here to stay, giving kitchens of every size, style, and layout a layered and lived-in look. Here's why they love the trend, and how you can introduce aged colors to your cooking space.

What's the Appeal of Aged Kitchen Colors?

Oxblood red, burnt terracotta, aubergine, tobacco brown, deep navy; these are all colors that have that aged, lived-in feel to them. They are rich and deep in tone, bringing a timeless yet unique feel to kitchens of every style and size. But perhaps the greatest appeal of these shades is the warmth they bring to designs.

'There’s a real richness to these types of colors which feels incredibly comforting. They reference traditional interiors rather than passing trends. Deep earthy shades create kitchens with real depth and absorb light beautifully, making the space instantly feel layered, lived in and homey,' says Sophie Rowell of Côte de Folk.

It's that sense of tradition that makes them such an enduring and livable choice – these aren't colors synonymous with new trends or modern design styles; they've been present in homes for centuries.

'These colors – oxblood, aubergine, and tobacco brown – were on walls for 200 years before white became a primary color in kitchens. What changed is that people stopped treating the kitchen as an appliance room and started treating it as the room they actually live in,' adds Michael Winn, owner and president at WINN Design + Build.

'There’s a practical reason too. Most kitchens in the Washington, DC area sit at the back of the house, north-facing, often under a covered porch. White cabinetry in that light doesn’t read crisp. It reads gray and slightly dingy. A deep color in that same light reads deliberate,' explains Michael.

Beyond history, aged kitchen colors tap into the calming, grounded atmosphere that's becoming increasingly desirable in these rooms, where hard lines and cold surfaces are often in abundance. These hues offer contrast and softer design detais that make a kitchen feel cozier and more lived-in.

'The appeal of aged colors like this could be our desire to feel something,' says Anna Franklin of Stone House Collective. 'In a world where everything is innovating and moving and changing at such a rapid pace, it can be hard to feel grounded at all. These aged colors evoke a calm, historic feeling – something earthy and real.'

Why They're Replacing Classic Neutrals

Classic neutrals like whites, grays, and beiges have dominated, often seen as the safest palette to ensure a kitchen doesn't feel trend-led. But homeowners are beginning to search for alternatives that feel a bit warmer, richer, and more confident, and aged kitchen colors offer that without leaning into bright territory.

'For more than two decades, kitchen design has been dominated by light neutrals and restrained palettes. Today, homeowners are embracing color with much more confidence and are looking for spaces with greater depth, warmth and personality. Rich aged tones such as aubergine, burnt plum and cognac have been waiting patiently for their return, and we’re finally ready to bring a sense of permanence and history to our homes that lighter palettes simply can’t achieve,' explains Benjamin Ouellette, Designer at Design Galleria Kitchen and Bath Studio.

Because these colors feel earthy and reminiscent of nature, they almost act as darker neutrals, offering a timeless base for your kitchen design without being plain or too light. 'Aged colors work like colorful neutrals. Since they mirror shades found in nature – like earth, leather, and dark wood – they make a kitchen feel warm and cozy without being overwhelming. They also pair easily with other colors, grounding the space,' says Shannon Kadwell, Kitchen and Bath Director at Anthony Wilder Design/Build.

'Several of these shades, tobacco brown and burnt terracotta especially, function as neutrals in my book. They're not loud colors; they're grounded ones,' agrees John Malone McNamara, Founder and Principal Designer of Coosa, who explains that the success of your design is about how the colors are introduced.

'I don't see this as bold versus safe, but as layered, warm neutrals versus flatter, cooler ones. The real risk isn't choosing a neutral palette, it's relying on a single gesture. An all-oxblood kitchen can become just as predictable as an all-white one. The most compelling kitchens come from thoughtful combinations of color, material, and texture rather than relying on one dominant move.'

How to Introduce Aged Colors to Your Kitchen

There are several ways to bring aged kitchen colors into your space, whether you go big with painted cabinetry or more subtly with accessories and decor. It really depends on whether you want to embark on a full color refresh or bring life to a light neutral scheme.

'Start with kitchen cabinetry,' Anna suggests. 'Cabinetry takes up the most visual space, so it's going to create the most noticeable difference. Aged colors like oxblood, evergreen, and navy work so well on cabinets, and they're made even more impactful when paired with coordinating panel-ready appliances. It's a surefire way to make your kitchen feel like a work of art. It also opens up so much opportunity to introduce other aged elements into the space, like a really stellar marble countertop, unique light fixtures, and accessories.'

If you don't want to commit to a kitchen drenched in these richer hues, introducing them in smaller doses can be just as impactful. It's also a sophisticated way to add contrast without overwhelming the room.

'If you don’t want to commit to every cabinet, you could choose it for your island or pantry cupboard. In a past kitchen project, we teamed the deep brown with soft cream walls and a soft lilac for the on-counter cabinet, which kept the darker cabinetry feeling elegant and unique rather than dark and heavy,' Sophie explains.

'A single island in a deep aubergine against a warm off-white perimeter gets you most of the drama at a fraction of the commitment. A scullery or butler’s pantry is the other place I like it. Small room, low stakes, and it’s a good surprise when someone opens the door,' Michael agrees.

You can also experiment with aged kitchen colors without taking on a repaint. If you're stepping out of your comfort zone, start with easy-to-change items and subtler features – Shannon recommends 'bringing in terracotta floor tiles, leather bar stools, or copper pots hanging on the wall.'

It could also be a runner in rich oxblood tones, lighting with smoky brown fixtures, or a kitchen nook accessorized with deep navy throw pillows. It's an entry point for decorating with aged kitchen colors without the pressure to get it right on the first try.

Shop the Look

Aged kitchen colors might be a bit darker than you're used to, but they add depth and richness to any design without feeling too bright or bold. Look to shades like Terre d' Egypt and Eating Room Red for rich red shades, Brinjal for more of an aubergine look, Hickory Stick and Ghost Ranch for brown and terracotta shades, or embrace deep navy hues with Hale Navy and Hague Blue.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Relentless summer heat and drought can really take it out of roses. It can leave you with wilted, drooping blooms and scorched foliage. But, with a little TLC you can nurture your roses back to good health and revive them once again.

Growing roses requires some particular care when hot temperatures arrive in summer. Although some types like Knock Out Roses (which you can find at Plant Addicts) are much more tolerant, many roses don't do well in prolonged dry, hot conditions. If yours look tired after a long summer, focus on watering, mulching, and providing some afternoon shade – soon, they'll bounce back.

The most important thing is to not to stress your rose further by making some common mistakes, especially around pruning and fertilizing. Here, we talk through how to successfully revive roses after a heatwave.

1. Water Deeply

When a heatwave hits, soil dries out quickly. For roses which prefer consistent moisture, this can cause dehydration.

'Stressed roses can be encouraged back to healthy growth by thoroughly hydrating them,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'It's important to soak the root ball by giving roses a deep watering – providing just a slight sprinkling of water simply won’t suffice. You should ideally give them at least five liters of water each time after a heatwave, and continue to water deeply every few days until the temperatures return to normal,' Drew advises.

'Where you can, water in the morning so the roses have hours to take the moisture in before the temperatures rise. Roses in containers will need more regular watering, potentially daily,' he continues.

When watering roses, aim at the base of the plant to avoid splashing on the foliage, which can cause rose diseases to spread like black spot and powdery mildew.

'In extreme cases, you can place the whole container into a large bucket of water. If you are using a watering can or garden hose, give the plant enough moisture that the water starts draining out of the holes at the base of the pot,' Drew adds.

'Keep checking the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, either with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon), and if it feels dry, water the rose.'

2. Add Mulch

The next step is to ensure your rose doesn't lose moisture too quickly, especially if temperatures are still high. One of the best ways to do this is by mulching.

You want to put down 2-3" of compost, bark chip, or something like this Lowe's brown mulch around the base of your rose. Though, you should avoid putting it right up against the rose's base, as it can cause rot.

This will help lock in moisture, keeping roots hydrated. It will also help regulate soil temperature to reduce heat stress.

There are lots of other types of mulch to choose from, many of which you can source from your own garden for free.

3. Avoid Pruning

When your rose is already showing signs of stress, it's best not to prune your rose heavily. As tempting as it is to remove the unsightly scorched and discolored leaves, trimming your plant now could cause it more harm.

In fact, if another heatwave is forecast in the next few weeks, hold off on removing any foliage. Partially scorched leaves can provide shade and shield healthy foliage from the sun.

If you do want to do a bit of tidying, focus on removing the fully brown, damaged stems, leaves, and blooms. You should use clean and sharp pruning snips (like these Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon) to do this.

Take care to wear thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) to protect your arms when tending to roses.

4. Shield It From Sun

If there's one thing your rose doesn't need after being stressed by the sun, it's even more intense sun and heat. For this reason, it's important to shield it during the hottest part of the day in the early afternoon.

If you're growing your rose in a pot, you can move it to a shadier spot.. Avoid a heat-reflecting wall and scorching pavers, as this can have the opposite effect and trap heat around your rose.

For ground-planted roses, consider installing a shade cloth (like this from Amazon) or even an umbrella to provide temporary garden shade.

5. Don't Fertilize

While there is an opportunity to fertilize roses mid-summer after the first flush of blooms, it's best to hold off in a heatwave and while your plant is recovering.

When the soil is hot and dry, a build-up of salt from the fertilizer can cause root burn and weaken your rose even more.

Not only this, but giving your rose a boost of essential plant nutrients can encourage new leafy growth that is susceptible to heat and drought stress.

Instead, focus on watering your rose deeply to rehydrate it. You could even use these self-watering terracotta spikes on Amazon to provide more consistent moisture.

What to Shop

It's never too early to start planning for winterizing your roses. Just like extreme heat, extreme frost can also wipe out your roses. You may want to invest in a frost cloth (like this from Amazon), for example.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

You may think it's an inevitable slow decline after summer-flowering perennials peak in midsummer. However, when you cut back perennials in August, you can encourage a vibrant second flush of blooms to enjoy.

The likes of hardy geraniums, nepeta, delphinium, astrantia, and lady’s mantle can be coaxed into bonus fall flowers by being cut back in late summer. At a time when even the best perennials can start to look faded and tired, don’t just deadhead but cut the plants back hard. It may feel counterintuitive, but the rewards are worth it.

You need to know when to cut back perennials in August, and also appreciate that not all plants will respond well to this treatment. Here, we look at perennials to cut back in August that you can encourage into a second flush, and those to keep the pruning tools (like these Felco F2 pruners on Amazon that are great for trimming perennials) away from this month.

Hardy Geraniums

Anyone who grows hardy geraniums knows how rampant they are. They are fast-growing and long-flowering perennials that develop into large clumps during the summer.

By August, they can start looking tired and collapse. But you can keep geraniums blooming for longer by cutting the clump back this month. Use a pair of sharp pruning shears or hedge shears and cut the plant right back to a few inches above the soil.

Remove the debris, give the plant a deep watering, and feed it with a balanced liquid fertilizer, such as this 10-10-10 plant food from Walmart, which contains seaweed extract.

It might look harsh, but new growth will quickly appear, and you’ll get a new flush of blooms in little time.

Nepeta

Nepeta, or catmint, is a low-maintenance perennial that fills any space with aromatic grey-green leaves and trumpet-shaped lilac blooms. It works perfectly near the front of flower beds, and you can also grow catmint in pots if you garden in smaller spaces.

When you grow catmint, it can provide long interest. With the right care, this can stretch right into fall. Come August, it can appear a bit straggly, and the stems often start flopping over other plants, lawns, or garden paths.

If you prune catmint back this month to above the first leaf, it will tidy it up, encourage new growth, and provide another round of flowers for you to enjoy.

This trim may take five minutes with a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears. These Fiskars 23-inch hedge shears at The Home Depot are ideal. They have sharp steel blades and soft grip handles for comfortable trimming.

Astrantia

Astrantia produces delicate, papery, pincushion flowers that sit atop slender stems. They come in shades of pink, red, or green-white and have a long flowering season. Indeed, with the right trimming, astrantias are one of an elite group of plants that flower twice or more.

Gardeners growing these cottage garden plants can extend the blooms with regular deadheading. If the plant starts to look tatty in late summer, you can cut it back by half to get a new flush of growth and pollinator-friendly flowers that extend the show well into fall.

Astrantias prefer soil types that keep their roots moist. They can be grown in drier sites, but will need regular watering in hot weather to prevent the leaves from going crispy and ruining any chances of a new set of flowers.

A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, can be an essential gardening tool to help you judge when to water your garden plants.

Lady’s Mantle

Lady’s mantle, or Alchemilla mollis, is grown predominantly for its soft, scalloped, mid-green foliage. However, don’t overlook its blooms. It produces frothy star-shaped lime-green flowers starting in late spring or early summer.

However, come August, the plant can look untidy with flopping stems and browning foliage. It is a perennial to cut back for fall flowers and this month is an ideal time to do it. When you grow lady’s mantle, you can cut the plant back to the base, and it will sprout new growth within weeks.

Another reason to cut back lady’s mantle after the first flush of flowers goes over is that it stops the plant from self-seeding. If you don’t want lots of new plants sprouting, head out this month and give it a trim.

Delphinium

Delphiniums put on a towering display of blooms in summer. In reality, the season is short and come August, the spikes can look worse for wear. The best solution for this is to cut back delphiniums, pruning the flower spikes right back to the ground.

Cutting off the blooms after delphiniums finish flowering stops the plants looking tatty in borders. It might seem cruel, but the plants can respond with a second flush of flowers.

No matter what types of delphiniums you are growing, trim them, fertilize them, and water them this month. You should hopefully get another round of, albeit slightly smaller, flowers to enjoy in early fall.

If you care for delphiniums, use sharp pruning tools and cut the stalks to two inches from the ground.

Shop Pruning Tools

Perennials to Not Cut Back in August

• Peonies - When you grow peonies, they should be cut back in the fall. It is not recommended to cut back peonies in August, as the plants are still photosynthesizing and storing energy for next year’s growth. If you prune peonies now, next year’s display can be badly damaged.
• Asters - Asters are a great plant for fall color. They come to the fore in August and can bloom right through until October. It comes as no surprise to anyone growing asters that the advice is not to cut them back. You can cut back asters in the fall or spring, depending on whether you want to leave the plant for wildlife over winter. As many aster varieties can be a reliable food source for birds over the colder months, and the old growth insulates the plant against winter freezes, I would always opt to cut them back in spring.
• Japanese Anemones - Japanese anemones are another perennial routinely grown for showy performance from August to October. They offer color and interest at a time when summer perennials die down and are adored by many pollinators. However, they do spread through underground rhizomes, so many gardeners use a root barrier (such as this root barrier at Amazon) to keep them contained and prevent them from becoming invasive perennials. If you do grow Japanese anemone, cut them back in late fall or early spring. Don’t do it now or you’ll miss out on their blooms.
• Sedum - When you grow sedum, or Hylotelephium as they are now known, their flowers are rich in late summer and early fall. They are great plants for pollinators in fall, and will attract bees and butterflies in droves. If you cut them back this month, you are missing out on flowers and unnecessarily removing a vital seasonal food source for pollinators in your garden. Your best bet is to cut back sedum in spring, as the dried stems and heads can provide glorious interest and structure in a winter garden.
• Joe Pye Weed - Joe Pye weed, or eupatorium, is covered in nectar-rich flowers in late summer. These tall blooms provide food to several types of bees and many different butterflies. As late summer can be a period when nectar is scarce – it is a gap where summer flowerers have ended and the fall ones are just beginning – you want to retain Joe Pye weed blooms for pollinators. Other perennials that offer pollinators lots of nectar during this gap include black-eyed Susan and coneflowers. These are also plants you don’t want to cut back. You can deadhead them, but don’t prune them completely.

August is a busy month in the garden. While there are lots of maintenance tasks to do – watering, feeding, cutting back – there are also opportunities to take plant cuttings and get new plants for your garden for free. Our guide to plants to propagate in August reveals seven shrubs you can take semi-ripe cuttings from this month.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

As the seasons transition from summer to fall, you may find that soon a lightweight sheet isn't enough to keep you cozy and comfortable at night. That doesn't mean it's time to reach for your winter duvet insert just yet, though.

Instead, the puredown Lightweight Down Blanket, available at Amazon, provides just enough weight and comfort without causing you to overheat through the warmer nights of early fall.

It's a simple switch to make your bed look cozy, with a breathable finish that's suitable for year-round use.

Once cooler weather sets in, dressing your bed for style with the best bed sheets becomes far less important than layering it for warmth and comfort. Still, the start of fall signifies a month or two when it's still a little too temperate to turn your attention to making your bedding feel warmer. For these times, the puredown Lightweight Down Blanket, available at Amazon, offers the perfect transitional alternative.

Generously filled with 75 per cent down and 25 per cent feathers, it's soft, lightweight, and impressively breathable. Previously, I thought typically warm materials like down and feathers would only cause overheating. In actual fact, however, these natural materials boast naturally temperature-regulating properties to keep you cool in spells of warm weather, and cozy as temperatures drop between fall and winter.

Both the down and feathers are also certified to the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) for responsible sourcing and traceability.

Many sleepers may be put off by down bedding, assuming it's hard to wash and difficult to dry. Fortunately, this blanket is quite the opposite. To wash, dry, and care for it, simply machine wash on a gentle, cold water cycle and tumble dry on low heat, or air dry in the sun to naturally kill bacteria and musty odors. If any of the filling becomes flattened, a gentle pat quickly restores its fluffy shape.

The ease of care and unique versatility of this blanket even has one shopper describing it as a 'Goldilocks' lightweight pick, alongside a five-star review.

'Wasn’t expecting to love a blanket so much[...]but it exceeded expectations,' they explain. 'Wanted a light blanket to use on my bed now during the warmer months of spring and summer. Needed it to provide a little warmth (if AC on or cool night with windows open) but not too hot for warmer nights. With a thin jersey cotton coverlet as a top layer, this blanket fits the bill perfectly.

'It’s very thin but has a perfect weight to it − light but body-conforming − is soft and is very breathable (the fact that it’s down primarily and not feathers likely has something to do with this). It’s so comfortable!'

Another praises it as an 'amazing product,' and adds, 'Look no further. We had an all-season down from Bloomingdale's for a few years. It weighed a ton and was very heavy.

'We researched extensively before this purchase. This is a lightweight duvet insert that exceeded our expectations. It washes and dries very well. It is not bulky but provides the warmth that we need. It slides in and out of our duvet cover in minutes. It fluffs up very well.'

With fall fast approaching, it's a purchase we're certain you won't regret making.

More to Shop

Below, shop from a selection of more sleep essentials to ease the transition from summer to fall, from breathable duvet covers to the best fall candles for your bedroom space.

These lazy autumnal decorating tips will pair perfectly with your new transitional bedding.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

​I've always believed that the most beautiful interiors are the ones that place being experienced over the immediate need of being seen. They're the homes filled with small but mighty details that directly impact our moods, the ways we connect, and how we live our lives day to day; the spaces that look good but feel ever better.

Throughout history, people have been drawn to natural materials because they evoke a sense of awe and a connection to the earth. The closer we feel to nature, the more centered we feel, and that has a spillover effect into our productivity, creativity, and overall well-being.

​We live in a world that seems to only get busier, and more and more, our homes are becoming a place to rebel against that constant motion, leaning on the elements that help us switch off, slow down, and reconnect with ourselves more deeply. Natural details engage the senses; a trickling water feature captures our focus and brings our attention to the present moment; a wool blanket feels familiar and warm.

​Crystals came into my life, and subsequently my design philosophy, somewhat unexpectedly. After moving to Sedona, I was introduced through Kundalini yoga, and a friend of mine in the class who ran a crystal store. Curious, I placed a few within my own home and couldn't help but notice a familiar shift in how the space felt – calmer, lighter, more grounded. It wasn't unlike the elements that drew me to Sedona in the first place: the time-worn red rocks, ample sunshine, and towering saguaro cacti have a sense of quietude that reminds me the best things in life (and design) are often found when we stop to look at the world around us.

​I think there's a big misconception that crystals are purely for the spiritual, but I see them the same way I see any other natural detail; they're a tool we can use to influence how our spaces feel.

​It doesn't matter whether someone believes in their energetic properties or simply appreciates them for their beauty, because it's their organic connection and sense of permanence that gives them their anchoring effect. Their presence alone offers a natural, restorative calm that pushes us to feel more rooted and encourages us to relax, take a deep breath, and allow our minds to wander for a moment.

​When it comes to placing crystals in a home, the first factor I consider is scale. While I personally love a big statement piece, the ultimate goal is seamless integration. Bigger isn't always better, and neither is quantity. Wellness-centered design isn't a specific aesthetic, nor a checklist – how you bring these elements into your space is a choice that's uniquely your own. Often a single, thoughtfully placed stone can have a greater impact alone than when positioned around others.

​A sculptural geode quickly becomes a focal point on a fireplace hearth, a framed slab can stand in for an eye-catching painting, and clear quartz stones fixed within lighting can instantly elevate a fixture from functional to soft fascination, refracting light in a way that captures our attention; you can't help but pause and watch the dancing light as it moves across the room.

My simplest advice? Approach crystals as objects of art, rather than accessories of the home. The same way a sculpture might tell a story through its form, natural stones carry a narrative of time, told through each imperfection, vein, and inclusion.

And also, like art, they're uniquely personal. I always tell clients that selecting the right one for your space is a gut feeling: go with what you're drawn to and what makes you feel good, and from there, they can be placed intentionally, considering their position within the overall design so that whatever room they're in feels harmonious – an intentional choice, not an afterthought.

On an experiential level, crystals can also help signal other wellness rituals that find their way into our daily routines. A meaningful stone in the bedroom can be beautiful on its own, but it may also remind you to put away your device and open a book before bed. A geode thoughtfully integrated into your landscaping near an outdoor living space may double as a visual cue to meditate or take a moment of reflection.

At its core, wellness design isn't about the latest gadgets and trends – the new language of modern wellness is nature, and it's spoken through the ways we invite the outside world into our homes. Crystals are just one piece of the conversation, but they're one I find myself returning to time and again – quiet reminders that intentional details, even when small, have the power to center our homes and gently shape the way we feel as we move through life's noise.

Interior designer Stephanie Larsen is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, sharing her thoughts on decor.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Delphiniums dazzle in full bloom, their statuesque flower spikes reaching for the skies like fireworks above flower beds. By August, the first flowers are usually going over, and the plants look far from their best. You can revive tired delphiniums quickly and easily to get a second flush of flowers in late summer or early fall.

To get delphiniums back in shape, gardeners should prune, water, feed, and treat any fungal issues. This TLC provides essential moisture and nutrients, and the plant uses them to produce new flower spikes to enjoy.

If you care for delphinium plants, don’t just cut them down if they look like a shadow of their former selves. It doesn’t take much time or effort to cut back spikes, water them deeply, and give them a dose of fertilizer (such as this balanced liquid feed from Walmart) to put them back on the road to glory. The effort is more than worth it when you see another colorful bloom appearing.

1. Cut Spent Flower Spikes

Delphiniums usually flower for 4-6 weeks in June and July, but this will change depending on your location and climate. After delphiniums finish flowering, the best course of action is to remove the spent spikes.

If left, the bloom will drop its petals and begin forming seeds. This siphons energy from the rest of the plant. When you cut back delphiniums, that energy is redirected into new growth, resulting in a second flush of flowers. It gives the delphinium a second lease of life.

However, it must be said that this does not work with all types of delphiniums. Most perennial delphiniums can give a second flush, but annual and biennial types won’t rebloom.

To cut back the stems, use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools and cut the spike all the way back to where it meets the base of the plant.

You don’t need to break the bank on expensive tools for this. For example, these budget-friendly Fiskars pruning shears from Walmart will be ideal for trimming back perennials, plus many other pruning tasks around the garden.

2. Remove Yellow Foliage

To keep your delphinium looking tidy, attractive, and healthy, it is also advisable to remove any yellow or dying foliage from the plant. Yellow or decaying leaves are not just unsightly, but attract pests including aphids, whiteflies, fungus gnats, slugs, and snails.

It may take just five minutes to snip away yellowing leaves. As long as you leave lots of healthy foliage for photosynthesis, the plants won’t miss the ones you remove. Your delphiniums will look green and tidy, benefit from better airflow, which helps against fungal issues, and be less attractive to unwanted pests.

Aphids are classic delphinium pests often seen on new foliage and flower spikes. To get rid of aphids, you can spray them with insecticidal soap, sprinkle diatomaceous earth on the plants (you can get diatomaceous earth on Amazon), or use companion planting to attract natural predators like ladybugs or hoverflies.

Herbs like dill, parsley, and cilantro are fantastic plants that attract ladybugs. You can get all three and more in this variety of 10 herb seed packets at Amazon.

3. Water Deeply

Delphiniums are thirsty plants. Given a choice, they’d pick consistently moist soil every day over drought and dry conditions. If the soil does dry out during periods of heat, delphiniums usually react by wilting or fading earlier than usual.

To prevent your plants from getting stressed and looking tired, try to keep the soil consistently moist in the summer. This also gives you the best chance of your delphiniums reblooming.

The best approach is to water them deeply, so the water soaks into the ground and reaches the roots. Don’t just sprinkle a little bit when watering plants in hot weather, as it can be lost to evaporation before the plants even get to enjoy it.

Water deeply and direct it to the base of the plants. And water the garden in the morning if you can, as it gives the plants time to take in the goodness before the temperatures rise.

Drip irrigation or soaker hoses can be used in the summer to provide a slow, steady stream of water to plants in flower beds. They are an efficient tool to deliver water to the roots, where plants need it most. You can get a 50-foot soaker hose at The Home Depot that uses up to 70% less water than a sprinkler.

Mulching around the base of delphiniums will retain soil moisture to reduce watering, protect the roots from extreme heat, and smother weeds around the plant.

4. Feed to Encourage New Growth

After cutting back perennials to encourage a new flush of fall flowers, fertilizing plants gives your delphiniums the best shot of producing another flower spike this year. Growing these skyscraper blooms takes a lot of energy, and a dose of essential plant nutrients after trimming the old spikes down will be welcomed.

The best feed at this stage is a liquid balanced fertilizer. This is a fast-acting fertilizer that releases those nutrients quickly to the plant – and speed is of the essence here. This all-purpose water-soluble plant food on Amazon has an NPK of 20-20-20 and contains beneficial kelp.

A balanced product is best, or you can use one higher in phosphorus and potassium, which promote bud and bloom development, like this Miracle-Gro liquid bloom booster, also at Amazon.

Avoid using high-nitrogen fertilizer, as it will encourage just lush foliage growth; you will ruin any chances of getting a second flush of flowers.

5. Check for Mildew

Delphiniums are highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Drought-stressed delphiniums are annually prone to the fungal disease, while wet leaves due to overhead watering are also a classic cause.

Powdery mildew starts as white spots or patches on leaves, which can spread and make entire leaves look as if they are dusted with a white substance. This usually starts low down on the plant, but the issue can spread quickly if left untreated.

Remove affected leaves to prevent the spread and take steps to get rid of powdery mildew. A common step is to spray plants with a copper fungicide (available at Amazon); however, such sprays can impact other wildlife in your garden,

There are other DIY options. This includes mixing potassium bicarbonate with dish soap and water to spray onto plants, or making a milk spray to stop powdery mildew.

What to Shop

Delphiniums are always plants to stake. The tallest varieties can reach six feet, but even medium-sized plants commonly get to four feet. Even though the second flush of flowers may be smaller, they will still be tall enough to need supports.

It may be time to check your supports, or get new ones in place. I usually just use bamboo canes and twine to support my delphiniums. You can get a pack of natural six-foot bamboo stakes at The Home Depot for this.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

In a smaller kitchen, your backsplash becomes one of the most focal features in the room. Wrapping around the space and sitting closest to eye level, it's important you choose the right design not only for style, but for function too.

And there are so many kitchen backsplash ideas to consider, from marble slabs to decorative tiles. But in a smaller space, there's one look that designers often gravitate towards for a timeless and light-enhancing look: a mirrored backsplash.

It's an unconventional backsplash material, but one that adds plenty of style to your space while increasing light and offering a unique design feature. Here's why designers say it's a look that lasts, and why you should consider it in a smaller kitchen.

A mirrored backsplash is a chic addition to kitchens of every size, creating an unexpected detail and a new layer of texture. For many designers, it offers something different from the usual kitchen backsplash materials we are used to seeing on repeat.

'A mirrored backsplash provides beautiful dimension and make a space more dynamic without feeling like a heavy additional material,' explains interior designer Whittney Parkinson, who notes the appeal of this material goes beyond aesthetics. 'It can also be a wonderful budget-friendly option, without breaking the bank on a slab or tile.'

But it's perhaps its ability to create a brighter space that feels bigger than it really is that makes a mirrored kitchen backsplash so perfect for smaller schemes. 'When you are tight on space, mirrors help trick the eye by reflecting the room on itself. It creates a sense of more depth and brings additional light into areas that might otherwise feel dark or enclosed,' says Chicago-based interior designer Claire Staszak of Centered by Design.

'In addition, by eliminating grout lines that you would typically have with tile, a mirrored surface creates a much cleaner, more continuous finish. This simplicity helps the space feel more elevated and less visually broken up. Even in a narrow bar, scullery or butler’s pantry, a mirrored backsplash can give the space a sense of depth and refinement that another material may not,' adds Katelyn Schiltz of Designs of the Interior.

While mirrored backsplashes aren't a new concept, they are proving incredibly popular, with no signs of disappearing any time soon. The increased interest reflects the change in how our cooking spaces are being used. For many, these rooms are returning to the heart of the home, used for living, dining, and socializing, and the materials used are key to creating this more lived-in atmosphere.

'The pendulum is swinging on kitchens, away from sleek utility – with everything built in and hidden – back to an approach that treats the kitchen like other rooms: for living. Mirrors are a bit soft and romantic but still practical,' explains interior designer Heather Peterson.

There are different approaches you can take with a mirrored backsplash. For something clean and contemporary, a classic mirror spanning the wall adds depth to your design. But if you want something with a bit more texture that feels lived-in, patinated or antiqued mirrors are a timeless choice.

'A mirrored backsplash reflects light beautifully and can bring a sense of depth, patina, and romance to a space. We almost always use an antiqued mirror rather than a crisp, contemporary finish because it feels softer and gives the room a more old-world quality,' Claire notes.

'I almost always prefer an antiqued mirror rather than a clear mirror,' Whittney agrees, explaining it has more practical benefits, too. 'The subtle aging softens reflections, disguises fingerprints, and gives it a sense of permanence and history.' Because a backsplash needs to function as well as look beautiful, choosing a mirror with patina helps to hide some of the marks and smudges typical of a hard-working kitchen.

3 Mirrored Kitchen Backsplashes That Nail the Look

1. Add Character With Antiqued Glass

Adding texture, character, and a vintage feel, antiqued mirrors are a favorite among designers, especially in a more traditional kitchen where an untarnished mirror can lean a bit too modern. There are different levels of patina depending on your style.

'An antiqued mirror is one of our favorite ways to introduce the look. The patina softens the reflection and gives the surface a sense of age, making it feel as though it has always been part of the home. It is less crisp and contemporary than a standard mirror, so it works beautifully in both traditional and more eclectic interiors,' says Katelyn.

'The trick is restraint. I also like using it selectively,' Whittney adds, noting its appeal in a multitude of spaces, particularly as a backsplash paired with a classic countertop and a more simplistic range hood. 'It's a chameleon, changing with the materials and spaces around it, rather than being the show. When the mirror is supporting the architecture instead of becoming the focal point, it’s much more likely to feel just as beautiful twenty years from now as it does today.'

2. Consider a Mixed Material Design

Mixed material kitchen backsplashes have become increasingly desirable, adding more textural interest and the option to play with contrasting materials. And mirrors work really well with this approach, especially if you're worried about maintenance.

'We are seeing a move toward kitchens that feel less utilitarian and more connected to the rest of the home. A mirrored backsplash adds interest in a way that feels decorative, almost like artwork, while still being functional,' says Katelyn.

A mixed material approach allows you to use mirror on the upper portion of the wall for a more decorative touch, and the lower portion can be a more traditional material, such as the marble in this design. It balances the two looks beautifully, and you can also get more creative with the mirror design, too.

'A bronze mirror is another favorite of ours, as it softens the reflection even further. Rather than a very vibrant, true mirror image, it introduces warmth and a more modern, atmospheric quality to the space. Keeping the surrounding cabinetry and detailing classic also helps ensure it feels timeless rather than trend-driven.'

3. Introduce a Traditional Mirror Behind a Work Station

The light-enhancing properties and the ability to create the illusion of greater space are often highlighted, but there are more benefits to a mirrored kitchen backsplash than you might expect. Not only do they help create a more sociable kitchen, but they also tap into the trend for more wellness-led interiors. And clearer mirror designs are great for this.

'Mirrored backsplashes open up the space, reflecting both vistas and light into the room to create an airy, bright space. Secondly, they are perfect for creating an inclusive, convivial kitchen; for example, if placed behind the hob, they allow the cook to chat with guests while cooking or see children doing homework at the table,' explains Richard Moore, Creative Director at Martin Moore.

The appeal of standard mirror finishes in particular is the way they reflect surrounding views in an unexpected place. 'We have seen a rise in clients wishing to incorporate wellness into their homes. We often do this by using biophilic design to bring the outdoors in. Mirrored splashbacks are ideal as they reflect the garden or countryside beyond into the kitchen.'

Kitchen backsplash trends are ever-changing, but there is a quiet permanence to mirrored designs that often goes unnoticed. Be considerate about where you introduce a mirrored backsplash, and whether a clear or antiqued finish will best suit your design.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Making your bed each morning is one of the simplest ways to reset your space and start the day with a small sense of accomplishment. It takes only a couple of minutes, but if you never leave home without doing it, psychologists and professional organizers say it may reflect a wider set of habits that help keep your home – and your day – feeling more under control.

From tackling small messes before they grow to following consistent routines, these habits can create a more structured start to the day, helping your home feel calmer and everyday chores more manageable.

So, what does making the bed every day really say about your habits? Here, psychologists and professional organizers explain why making the bed can signify more than a tidy sleep space, and the simple habits you can adopt for a calmer, more organized morning.

'Routines are super powerful,' begins Moriah O'Barr, Licensed Psychologist and Co-Clinical Director of Cultivating Courage Psychological Services. They create predictability, which makes us feel safe. 'They also signal to our mind and body that we're preparing for something,' she adds. 'The routine of making your bed in the morning signals that you are getting ready to start the day, move into family, work, or student mode, and that you are transitioning from rest to active.'

Jill Katz, Certified Professional Organizer and Founder of One to Zen Organizing, agrees. 'Making your bed in the morning shows that you have developed a morning routine,' she says. 'People with morning routines are more productive since they are setting the tone for the entire day.

'When you go through a morning routine, you are taking the time to wake up and prep so you are ready to face the day. When your routine is complete, you are announcing to yourself and the world, "I am ready to take on my tasks for the day."'

With that in mind, here are the other habits of highly organized homeowners.

1. They Tackle Small Messes Before They Become Big Ones

It's easy to let small messes build up. A spill here, a pile of papers there, and suddenly you're left needing to deep-clean your house all over again.

In contrast, people who consistently make their bed may be more inclined to adopt a mindset of dealing with small tasks before they accumulate. 'Many people who consistently make their bed are generally inclined to adopt an attitude of “do not allow things to build up”,' says Dr. Amy Fitzpatrick, MD, Chief Medical Officer at Bedrock Recovery Center, who focuses on preventive medicine and behavioral health, helping people build simple daily habits that support long-term well-being.

'This means they are more likely to clean a few dishes, fold a blanket, or even put things back in order, as these smaller resets will prevent the accumulation of clutter, which can be mentally overwhelming.'

This approach can also help explain why allowing mess and clutter to accumulate is one of the things people with tidy homes never do. The goal isn't to clean constantly, though. Instead, finding the right cleaning balance in your home can help you stay on top of everyday mess without letting cleaning take over.

Keep a cleaning caddy within easy reach – IKEA's PEPPRIG Cleaning Bucket and Caddy is ideal for this – and store your cleaning supplies for maximum efficiency. The easier it is to deal with a small mess in the moment, the less likely it is to become a bigger job later.

2. They Build Routines That Make Staying Organized Easier

Making the bed may seem like a small task, but doing it every morning can be part of a much broader pattern of consistent routines.

'Making beds is often part of a typical morning routine,' says Stacy Sheller, Licensed Marriage and Family Therapist at The Grove Recovery Community. 'People who like to follow routines also have regular habits for things like meals, exercise, planning their day, keeping a deep cleaning schedule, or getting ready for bedtime.

'Consistent routines reduce fatigue involved in making decisions and provide structure. That structure makes it easier to maintain healthy habits over time.'

That same preference for consistency can extend to household chores, too. Rather than waiting for cleaning to become overwhelming, people who thrive on routines may be more likely to stick to a regular deep cleaning schedule and an achievable cleaning and laundry routine.

If you find it easier to stay on track with a visual reminder, put your routine somewhere you'll see it every day. A Magnetic Wet/Dry-Erase Blackboard (available on Amazon) on the fridge can make it easy to keep daily and weekly tasks visible.

3. They Value Progress Over Perfection

Making your bed isn't about creating a picture-perfect bedroom every morning. Instead, the simple act of completing a small task consistently can reinforce the idea that progress matters more than perfection.

'It's been proven to assist in building an individual's ability to take on larger responsibilities,' says Stacy Sheller. 'Many people find that maintaining their daily routines helps build confidence through their ability to succeed at smaller tasks each day.'

That mindset can be particularly useful when it comes to household habits. Rather than expecting yourself to overhaul your home in one go, focus on small, achievable actions to break bad home habits and replace them with routines that are easier to maintain.

For a deeper look at how small changes can lead to lasting results, Atomic Habits: An Easy & Proven Way to Build Good Habits & Break Bad Ones, available on Amazon, explores how tiny, consistent improvements can add up over time.

4. They Deal With Small Tasks Instead of Putting Them Off

A tidy home isn't necessarily the result of hours of cleaning. Often, it's the result of dealing with small tasks as they arise, rather than allowing them to pile up. If you've heard of the 'one touch' tidying rule, you'll know the value of putting things away as soon as you're finished with them. It's also one of the things organized people do every day.

'The act of making the bed is one example of doing the simplest things first,' says Dr. Amy. 'It becomes a routine, and those habits generally will follow through with all the other housekeeping duties you may need to complete each week.

'As a result of this routine, it's less mentally taxing when there isn't anything left undone around the house.'

You don't have to tackle everything immediately, either. On days when time or energy is limited, use a catch-all basket for mislaid items. Keeping them contained in one place prevents clutter from spreading and gives you a manageable task to deal with when you have more time.

5. They Make Their Homes Feel Comforting and Supportive

Finally, people who make their beds may be more likely to see their homes as places of comfort, stability, and support, says Stacey. The simple act of creating a tidy bedroom each morning can be part of a wider effort to make the home feel calm and restorative.

'People who tend to make their beds typically view their homes as places where they can find comfort and stability. Their focus on developing relaxing environments in addition to establishing the regularity of a daily routine could reflect this perspective.

'The goal for people who want to have a good home isn't to have a "perfect" house or space. Instead, it is to develop a space that has a sense of welcomingness, functionality, and will provide support and encouragement for living through each day.'

Creating that feeling doesn't require a complete home makeover. Small, sensory touches can make a space feel more inviting, too. Adding one of your best candles is an easy way of making a home feel welcoming. For example, the Posie Woody Sandalwood Vanilla Glass Candle, available at Anthropologie, brings both fragrance and a pop of color through its stylish glass vessel.

What to Shop

If you're feeling inspired to make making the bed part of your daily routine, I've rounded up some favorites for building healthy home habits and creating a space that supports your well-being below.

Meet the Experts

Have you heard of monastic bed making? This popular bedding trend is a minimalist approach.

For more home and habit advice, you can sign up for our newsletter so you never miss the latest features.

Spending time outside in the garden, is in itself, calming for many of us. However, it's possible to take this concept even further by planting certain species that specifically imbue a sense of tranquillity.

Particular plants can contribute to a sense of calm and ease more readily than others. Whether through muted color palettes, subtle scents, delicate textures or soothing movements, plants can influence our mood.

This means it's entirely possible to create a sensory space to destress and decompress in your own backyard. Discover the plant species experts recommend to create a tranquil garden. A water feature like this tiered fountain from Lowe's would add a charming touch, too.

1. Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris)

The pale tones and frothy flowerheads of most hydrangeas are pleasing to see in any garden. However, Hydrangea petiolaris is a climbing variety, so its a wonderful plant for softening hard edged fences and walls or enveloping seating areas to create pockets of restful seclusion.

'I’m obsessed with this vine - the deep green foliage and lacy white flowers have a quiet elegance, but what I love most is the sense of maturity climbing Hydrangea brings to a space,' says landscape designer, Kat Aul Cervoni, founder, Staghorn Living.

'Once it begins covering a wall, fence, or trellis, it gives the garden a grounding sense of place, almost as though it has always been there.

'I like to use it to soften a large vertical surface or enclose a seating area, where the layered foliage can create intimacy and make the garden feel sheltered and settled.'

This climbing Hydrangea from Plant Addicts would suit growing zones 4-8 and has a mature height and spread of 50-60', however can be kept smaller with pruning.

2. Fountain Grass (Pennisetum ‘Karley Rose’)

With their tall feathery plumes and gentle hypnotic movement swaying in a breeze, ornamental grasses are popular plants for soothing spaces. There are plenty of varieties to choose, however, one of Kat's preferred options is Pennisetum 'Karley Rose'.

'I adore this ornamental grass for the way it moves and the way its soft foliage and mauve-pink seed heads catch the light beautifully,' says Kat.

'To create a tranquil effect, I would plant Pennisetum in repeated drifts near a seating area or along a path, where even the slightest breeze brings the planting to life without making the space feel busy.'

This Pennisetum Karley Rose Fountain Grass from Plant Addicts is one of the hardiest ornamental grasses for cold winter regions (5-9) and one of the earliest to bloom.

3. Rosemary (Salvia Rosmarinus)

Aromatic herbs, with their long history of healing and medicinal properties, are a versatile inclusion when planting a sensory space.

Wellbeing Garden Designer, Amy Wagenfeld works with landscapers to create sensory gardens, which can be either soothing or stimulating. A fragrant favorite for Amy is Rosemary, which has a calming yet gently uplifting effect when inhaled.

'Rosemary’s stiff and somewhat sticky leaves offer an interesting tactile experience when rubbed,' says Amy. 'The highly aromatic oils that are released when rubbing the leaves can lead to a sense of peace and calm as the scent is slowly and quietly inhaled.

'Beyond its sensory qualities, herbal lore tells us that rosemary is useful to support memory and clear the mind. Plant a rosemary in a garden bed or container and take a moment to enjoy its fragrance.'

This Blue Cascade Rosemary from Nature Hills has a trailing habit, silvery-green foliage and will bloom with pretty blue flowers.

Amy goes on to explain that some sensory gardens will be places that have a muted color palette, and are quiet, and cozy, while others might be more activated and vibrant.

'The appeal is that it can be the space in someone’s life where they can go to and feel grounded and connected with themselves and the world around them.'

4. Baby Bunny Bellies (Tradescantia chrysophylla)

Soothing the senses and calming the mind isn't just about sight, sound and scent. Touch and texture are important elements too. For this reason, Amy loves to use Tradescantia in her garden designs.

This silvery greyish plant has hints of pink on its 'furry' leaves, so its muted color palette makes it as comforting to observe, as it is to touch.

'Baby Bunny Bellies, like its namesake, could well have the softest leaves you have ever touched,' says Amy. 'Simply stroking its downy leaves is calming and relaxing.'

'It's a trailing plant that is easy to grow and share cuttings with others. Baby Bunny Bellies are a lovely addition to a container garden or a hanging planter, and grow well indoors too in soil or a vase of water.'

A tall container like this Delray planter from Plant Addicts would suit a trailing Tradescantia.

5. Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides)

Fragrance is one of the strongest sensory triggers tied to memory and emotion, and star jasmine offers one of the most calming scents in the garden, without being overpowering.

Landscape architect, Adam Sexton likes to position Star Jasmine near seating areas, garden gates, or along pathways where people naturally pause.

'Its glossy evergreen foliage provides year-round structure, while the delicate white blooms release fragrance in late spring and early summer, rewarding visitors as they move through the space,' says Adam.

'In sensory gardens especially, scent creates an immersive experience that encourages mindfulness and helps people become more present.'

Depending where you live, August to October is usually the best time to prune star jasmine to improve its flowers and fragrance next year.

This Star Jasmine from Nature Hill's is highly fragrant and would thrive in zones 7-11.

6. Lamb's Ear (Stachys byzantina)

Just as a room decorated in muted tones is more relaxing to be in than one that's filled with bold, bright or busy hues, so it is outside in the garden. Plants with silver foliage, such as Lamb's Ear introduce visual calm by reflecting light and softening contrasts within the landscape.

'From a landscape architect’s perspective, the most calming gardens aren’t necessarily the most colorful; they’re the ones that engage the senses gently and intentionally,' says Adam. 'Layering movement, fragrance, texture, and restrained color creates spaces that encourage people to slow down and linger.'

Muted tones act like a neutral backdrop, allowing the eye to rest rather than constantly shifting between bold colors. 'Many silver-leaved plants like Lamb's Ear also have tactile qualities or subtle fragrance that deepen the sensory experience,' continues Adam.

'Lamb’s Ear invites touch with its velvety leaves, while lavender combines silvery foliage with soothing scent and pollinator value. I frequently incorporate these species to balance more vibrant planting compositions and create gardens that feel timeless, cohesive, and restorative.'

This Helene von Stein Lambs Ear from Nature Hills has larger leaves than regular varieties for maximum tactility.

7. Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)

There are numerous ornamental grasses that would make an attractive option for a tranquil garden. A north American native that offers structure and elegance with its beautiful arching blades and deep wine hue is Switchgrass.

'Ornamental grasses, such as Switchgrass, are one of the most effective plants for creating a sense of tranquillity because they bring constant, subtle movement to the landscape,' says Adam.

'Even the lightest breeze animates their foliage, creating a soft rustling sound that naturally draws attention away from everyday distractions.

'Rather than demanding attention with bold flowers, grasses contribute rhythm and texture throughout the seasons, making a garden feel alive without feeling busy.

'I often use Switchgrass, as well as Feather Reed Grass or Mexican Feather Grass, as connective tissue throughout a design to soften architecture and create moments of quiet reflection.'

The Prairie Winds Cheyenne Red Switchgrass from Nature Hill's grows to 2-3' tall and turns deep wine red in fall.

What to Shop

Creating a tranquil or sensory gardens that's right for you will also depend on the climate where you live. Whether you opt for a muted palette, subtle scents, tactile textures, gentle movement or a soothing mixture, it can help to choose plants native to your region, as these will largely look after themselves.

'The most fundamental principle of sensory garden design is to reflect on what you want and need in a garden to make it work well for you,' says Amy. 'Ideally it's a space where you experience a sense of balance and calm when you are in it, and hopefully for a long time afterwards.'

Shopping for a new non-toxic cutting board always feels like a compromise. Either you find a board that doesn't risk contamination but dulls your knives in a few uses, or you find a board that's great for knives, but needs constant upkeep (I am looking at you, wood).

I have tried countless in my hunt for the perfect pick for a non-toxic kitchen, but now Le Creuset has entered the ring with their new Paper Fiber Cutting Board.

Made from sturdy yet lightweight paper fiber, it won't destroy knives and requires minimal upkeep. It's the best of both worlds.

Picking an easy-to-clean, non-toxic cutting board is not as easy as it sounds. Common options such as glass and stone are easy to maintain, but the harsh surfaces blunt and dull the best chef's knives more quickly. Even if you know how to sharpen knives, even the best kitchen knives eventually need replacing.

Wood has long reigned as the best alternative to plastic − gentle on knives with none of the microplastic risk. However, cleaning and caring for these cutting boards is tedious, requiring regular oiling to prevent warping and cracking.

That is where paper fiber comes in as the perfect middle ground. The Le Creuset Paper Fiber Boards are crafted from FSC-certified paper fiber, offering a sturdy yet lightweight surface that’s built for daily use while being gentle on your knives.

A non-slip silicone grip ensures stability during chopping, slicing, and dicing, while an engraved border on the medium and large boards is designed to catch juices and keep countertops clear.

Better still, the boards are resistant to staining and odors, and are dishwasher-safe (although hand washing is recommended), keeping cleaning a kitchen after dinner nice and easy.

What Else to Shop

I've curated a selection of the best plastic-free cutting board alternatives to complement your non-toxic cookware, making food prep and cleanup safer and more seamless.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Next, brush up on the easy zoning method to prevent contamination in a kitchen.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Summer is a glorious yet challenging time in the indoor garden, as our houseplants enjoy a growth spurt while battling pests that can quickly destroy them. One of the most common to find in August are spider mites, which form fine webs over plants, feed on their leaves, and significantly weaken them.

The reason so many of us have the challenge of getting rid of spider mites on houseplants this month is because these sap-sucking insects thrive in summer conditions. Dry air and dehydrated plants are what spider mites seek and they multiply quickly in this environment. The problem is spider mites can be easy to miss because they're tiny.

That's why it's so important to monitor your plants for any signs of mites, keep them hydrated, and clean their leaves regularly through summer. Even using this plant mister from Amazon daily can help keep plant leaves clean pest-free. Here, I explain more about why these little red insects are taking over your houseplants in August and what to do about them.

Spider Mites in August

Spider mites are one of the most common houseplant pests to spot in August for one reason: they love the summer heat.

With humidity low and temperatures high, spider mites thrive in our homes during the summer months. It's when their natural predators are less active and plants are more susceptible to heat-stress, which these mites target to feed on.

This means underwatered houseplants next to open sunny windows are most at risk of attracting spider mites in summer (I always use a soil moisture meter, like this from Amazon, to monitor my plants' soil and water correctly).

The warmer conditions also result in fast reproduction, so spider mite populations an multiply fast and spread to more plants in your houseplant collection.

If you don't catch a spider mite infestation quickly, it can result in leaf drop, discoloration, and stunted growth, as plants become significantly weak from the damage.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to deter and get rid of them.

How to Get Rid of Them

To avoid spider mites on houseplants in August, I always do a few things to make my indoor garden less appealing to them.

This includes moving houseplants away from scorching sunny windows, especially the windows I have constantly open in summer as this offers a direct access point for pests.

This will also help prevent leaf scorch on your most sensitive houseplants. Alternatively, you can use these sheer curtains from Wayfair to diffuse the sunlight and protect foliage from damage.

I also clean my houseplant leaves weekly during summer. You can use these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon to gently wipe the surface and remove any dust. This is a good opportunity to observe foliage and look out for pests, especially on the underside of leaves where they often hide.

You can also increase humidity for indoor plants to deter spider mites. As well as misting your plant, an effective solution is placing your plant on a pebble humidity tray (from Amazon) or even installing a humidifier (like this portable one from Walmart).

If you do spot any spider mites on your houseplants, it's important to isolate them from other plants to stop spreading. Cut off any heavily-infested foliage (using clean and sharp houseplant snips from Amazon) and then shower your plant to wash away the majority of the mites.

When I've dealt with these destructive insects before, I've found individually wiping each leaf is super effective. You can use water on a microfiber cloth, insecticidal soap (like this from Amazon), or even organic neem oil (like this spray from Walmart).

What to Shop

Not checking for pests is just one summer houseplant care mistake to watch out for. You should also take care to adjust watering frequency during hot spells and avoid overfertilizing your plants, which can burn roots.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

August marks the beginning of the end for summer fruit season. Whether you grow your own or pick up berries at the supermarket, this is one of the last chances to enjoy them at their peak.

Rather than let my summer haul spoil before I can eat it all, I'm preserving it now to enjoy through fall and get a head start on next year's spring baking. Instead of turning everything into jam or jelly, I'm reaching for a FoodSaver Vacuum Sealer from Amazon.

This handy food storage idea removes excess air before sealing, helping to protect delicate berries from freezer burn and preserve their flavor for longer. It's a simple way to make the most of peak-season produce now. Here's how.

There are countless food storage tricks to preserve the life of your groceries, but vacuum sealing is one of the best. The process removes oxygen from the bag or container, protecting food from freezer burn and bacterial growth, which causes spoilage. It extends the food's shelf life, be it vegetables, marinated meat, or fresh fruit.

The payoff is undeniable. Your food stays fresher for longer, minimizing food waste to save you money and prevent adding to landfills. It also makes for a fantastic meal prep essential, preserving batch-cooked foods without the inevitable degradation in quality after a week or more spent in the fridge.

One of the best ways to use vacuum storage for food is for those items that degrade the quickest, such as fresh berries. Items that might last only a few days in regular storage can be stretched to last weeks or even months when sealed and frozen.

The trick is to wash, dry, and freeze the berries first, leaving them overnight before using the handheld sealer to remove air. This prevents the berries from being squashed when the bag compresses. By vacuum sealing, you protect freshness by reducing freezer burn and save storage space with flatter, stackable packs.

Alternatively, you can use a vacuum seal container, such as the FoodSaver Marinate Containers, also available at Amazon, to ensure your fruit maintains its shape.

With reusable FoodSaver vacuum bags, I am not worrying about increasing my plastic use, either. Plus, the portable tool fits neatly in my drawer when not in use, meaning it doesn't clutter my small kitchen. It is one of the smartest investments I have made.

What Else to Shop

There are several great ways to prolong the life of your food. I have curated a selection of the best storage investments you can make for your kitchen to eliminate unnecessary waste at home.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Decluttering your kitchen cabinets can also help you gain control over food storage, allowing you to see everything you have in stock so nothing goes to waste.

Love the latest product news and helpful shopping advice? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

If you want to keep your annuals in borders, containers, and hanging baskets flowering all summer long and looking good right through until the first frosts, an expert flower grower recommends three tasks that are guaranteed to prolong their life as long as possible.

‘We grow a lot of annuals at our farmquarters up in Washington state,’ says Christina Stembel, the founder of Farmgirl Flowers. ‘I find the three things that do the most are to deadhead, water deeply and consistently, and not overfeed.’

To keep annual flowers blooming until frost arrives, follow this expert-approved advice to make the most of that one-season show. Add these three simple words to your summer gardening checklist: deadhead, water, feed (you can get a liquid bloom booster on Amazon that is perfect for annuals). ‘I've found that doing those three things works far better than any hack or wives' tale,’ adds Christina.

1. Deadhead Often

Deadheading encourages lots of fresh flowers and the longest display. Annual flowers are short-lived and put energy into producing seeds once the blooms go over. As Christina Stembel puts it, once the plants start making seeds, ‘that basically means they've done their job and are calling it a day’.

You don’t want the energy going into seed production; it exhausts the plants as they essentially prepare for the end of their lives. Instead, by deadheading, you direct the energy into producing new buds and flowers. This quick, easy task can dramatically extend the show and lifespan of annual flowers, including marigolds, cosmos, zinnias, snapdragons, petunias, and many more.

Check your plants every few days and snip off the spent flowers with a pair of sharp pruning snips, such as these Felco pruning snips on Amazon. Alternatively, you can snap the old blooms off many plants between your fingers and thumb, but be careful to snap rather than pull the entire plant by accident.

An exception comes with self-cleaning annuals that don’t need deadheading. These plants naturally drop faded flowers, and include impatiens, lobelia, and some varieties of petunias.

2. Water Deeply

Annual flowers won’t last long if they are repeatedly left to dry out and wilt, then completely soaked. That kind of feast-and-famine approach throughout the summer will stress the plants and reduce their lifespan.

The best approach to watering the garden is to water deeply and consistently. Shallow daily watering may seem beneficial, but it causes plants to grow shallow roots near the surface. When the temperatures spike and the top inches of soil dry out, they quickly suffer and wilt.

A much better way to water plants is to water deeply, though less frequently. This encourages stronger roots.

‘Depending on how much you're watering, I've found mulching helps them retain the moisture longer so you don't feel like a jerk not conserving water,’ adds Christina. This bag of all-natural wood mulch from Miracle-Gro is available at The Home Depot and ideal for use around annual flowers.

Fast-growing annuals in pots will need more regular watering, potentially every day, but still soak them thoroughly until you see water running out the drainage holes.

It is good practise when watering plants in hot weather to do it in the morning, so the plants benefit most, and avoid the watering mistake of soaking the foliage rather than the soil, which causes fungal issues.

3. Feed Regularly

To keep annual flowers blooming until frost hits, they need a consistent source of nutrients. Well-fed annuals will have the nourishment required to keep producing lots of new blooms for the longest display.

The best summer flower fertilizer is higher in phosphorus and potassium – the nutrients that encourage strong flowering. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds that promote lush foliage growth, and stick to fertilizing flowers in pots and borders with water-soluble products labelled ‘bloom booster’ or tomato feeds.

Feed annuals, especially those growing in container gardens or hanging baskets, every week or two to keep them blooming. Always stick to the recommended rates, as Christina warns: ‘I've made a ton of mistakes, like over-fertilizing, thinking that would keep them blooming longer, but sadly it actually did the opposite.’

Shop Summer Flower Fertilizers

If you keep annual flowers blooming until frost, that can be the end for them. However, you can protect plants from frost to try to squeeze a little bit more of a show from even tender annuals.

It can take only a few minutes to cover plants with frost cloth (such as this 10 x 50 feet frost cloth at Walmart) when a light frost is forecast. This quick job can extend the season, but remember to remove the covers in the morning once the temperatures rise.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The Opening Note

This week, I’m determined to make the most of every last warm evening we have left. I’m not quite ready to admit that summer is coming to an end – in fact, I’m desperate to stay outdoors for as long as possible, dining, entertaining, and enjoying those long evenings before the temperature inevitably drops and we’re all forced back inside.

We’ve been unusually lucky in the UK this summer, with so many stretches of warm, sunny weather that outdoor dining and living has felt less like a treat and more like a way of life. I’ve found myself eating almost every meal I can outside, inviting friends over for relaxed dinners in the garden, and finding any excuse to sit outside until the light disappears. It has been such a welcome reminder of how much pleasure can come from simply spending more time outdoors.

Now that we’re edging towards the end of summer, I’m looking for ways to keep that feeling going for just a little longer. There’s something especially lovely about late-summer evenings: the air feels a little cooler, the light becomes softer and more golden, and sitting around a table outside after dinner somehow feels even more enjoyable. I’m not ready to give that up just yet.

Rather than packing away the garden and outdoor dining pieces at the first sign of autumn, I’m adding a few things that will make it easier to stay outside comfortably. Think soft throws draped over chairs for when the temperature dips, outdoor rugs to make a garden table feel more inviting, and small decorative touches that bring a little warmth and personality to an outdoor setting.

I’ve recently added a couple of pieces to my own outdoor setup that are already helping. The Maeve by Anthropologie Striped Ruffle Indoor/Outdoor Pillow from Anthropologie is exactly the kind of pretty, practical detail I love – the playful stripes and ruffled edge add a little personality while making outdoor seating feel much more comfortable. I’ve also bought the Mr. White Outdoor Cordless Lamp from Amazon, which has quickly become one of my favorite additions for evenings outside. There’s something so useful about being able to move a cordless lamp around the garden, whether it’s placed on the dining table during dinner or moved to a side table later in the evening.

I’m increasingly convinced that outdoor lighting is one of the easiest ways to extend the life of a backyard or patio. Once the sun has gone down, portable lamps, lanterns, and rechargeable lights create that warm, glowing atmosphere that makes you want to stay outside for another drink, another conversation, or just another hour. They’re small additions, but they can completely change the mood of an evening.

I’ve always loved the way outdoor living spaces are used across Europe, where dining outside isn’t necessarily reserved for the height of summer. There’s an effortless approach to alfresco entertaining that makes a garden or terrace feel like another room of the home – somewhere to gather, eat, talk and linger, rather than somewhere that has to be perfectly styled or saved for special occasions.

That’s the feeling I’m trying to recreate at home now. A beautiful outdoor rug under the table, a pile of cosy throws within reach, some soft lighting, a few pieces of pretty tableware and seasonal flowers are enough to make an evening outside feel considered without losing that relaxed, spontaneous quality that makes summer entertaining so enjoyable.

I’ve been gathering the pieces I want to see me through these final weeks of warm weather – from outdoor dining essentials to weather-friendly textiles, garden accessories, portable lighting and small decorative touches. These are the things that can help make an outdoor space feel warmer, more comfortable and more inviting, even as the evenings start to draw in.

This week, I’m sharing the pieces I’d genuinely choose to keep outdoor dining and entertaining going for as long as possible. Because while I know cooler evenings are coming, I’m determined to squeeze every last bit of summer out of the garden before we have no choice but to move indoors – and if a few throws, an outdoor rug, some pretty cushions and a glowing portable lamp can buy me a little more time outside, I’m all for it.

The Edit: Keeping Summer Going

The Queue

Next week, I’ve been thinking about a decorating approach that feels increasingly appealing in a world of ever-changing trends: creating a home that feels collected rather than decorated. Instead of chasing the latest look or creating a perfectly finished room, I’m much more drawn to spaces that feel as though they have evolved naturally – filled with pieces that have a story, a sense of history, or simply a personal meaning.

The most interesting rooms tend to be a mix of old and new: a vintage chair beside a contemporary sofa, handmade ceramics collected over the years, an antique mirror inherited from a family member, or artwork picked up while travelling. These are the details that give a home character and make it feel genuinely lived in.

I’ve always admired interiors where you can’t immediately tell when everything was purchased. A beautifully worn wooden table, mismatched pottery, faded textiles or an old lamp given a new lease of life can add so much warmth. Nothing feels too coordinated, and that is precisely what makes it work. It feels personal rather than prescribed – and far less tied to whatever happens to be trending.

Handmade, vintage and antique pieces are particularly appealing because they have a sense of permanence. A hand-thrown vase, woven basket, old wooden stool or set of mismatched glasses doesn’t need to be perfect; often, the imperfections are what make them special. They feel as though they belong to a home rather than simply filling a space.

And while I don’t have children, I’ve started thinking more about the things I bring into my home in terms of what might outlive me. I love the idea of choosing pieces that could one day be passed on to family or friends – things beautiful and well-made enough to be loved by someone else long after I’m gone, rather than becoming another unwanted object destined for landfill.

That doesn’t mean everything has to be expensive or antique. It might be a piece of pottery from an independent maker, a vintage frame found secondhand, a beautiful textile, or something discovered on a memorable trip. What matters is that it has character and that you can imagine someone wanting to keep it.

A home doesn’t have to look new to feel beautiful. The most inviting spaces often have a little wear and tear, a few mismatched elements and plenty of objects that couldn’t simply be replaced with something else. They feel personal because they are personal.

Next week, I’m sharing an edit of the handmade, vintage, antique and heirloom-inspired pieces I’m drawn to now – not because they are the next big interior trend, but because they have the potential to become part of a home’s story for years to come.

The Very British Edit is a shoppable guide to beautiful living with a distinctly British twist. From heritage patterns to timeless decor inspirations, each edition blends personal insight, design expertise, and a love of craftsmanship. It is stylish, trustworthy, and endlessly inspiring.

I've had my jade plant for many years now and love it for its low maintenance and sculptural foliage. To keep it looking its best, I always give my jade plant a quick check in August. Doing a few simple tasks this month keeps these plants healthy and prepare them for the incoming fall.

Growing a jade plant is straightforward and really, these succulents thrive on neglect. But, a little TLC in summer can go a long way. Hotter temperatures can cause a jade plant's plump leaves to shrivel, so it's important to keep on top of watering. You should also watch out for leaf burn in intense sunlight, and monitor for pests that love the current dry conditions.

All of these things apply to a large jade plant and jade bonsai tree (like this one I love from Amazon) alike, leaving your plant looking bright and glossy. Here, I talk through exactly what to do with a jade plant in August.

1. Water Deeply in Summer

When a jade plant is dehydrated, its iconic plump leaves (which store water) become wrinkled and turn limp. Jade plant leaves may even drop off and its stems can become brittle and break off.

This is one of the biggest risks in summer, where warmer temperatures are drying out the soil more quickly. That's why it's so important to keep on top of watering your jade plant in August.

I like to use the deep watering method to ensure my jade plant is sufficiently hydrated. This helps avoid overwatering, which can cause a jade plant to suffer from root rot.

I opt for this method over a self-watering planter (like this pretty set of green ones from Amazon) because jade plants need their soil to dry out in between watering. For this reason, I also use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to monitor the soil before picking up my watering can.

2. Protect It from Scorching Sun

In August, there's still plenty of summer sun to enjoy. For jade plants, however, the intense afternoon sunlight can cause discoloration and sun burn.

In fact, too much sun exposure can cause your jade plant to turn red as a stress response. Though, native to southern Africa, these succulents thrive in 4-6 hours of bright light daily and enjoy a spot near a south-facing window.

You can use a sheer curtain (like this from Wayfair) to filter direct sunlight from your window and protect your plant.

Any jade plant leaves with leaf scorch won't turn green again, so it's best to snip them off with clean and sharp houseplant snips (like these from Amazon).

3. Monitor for Pests

Many common houseplant pests thrive in warm, dry summer conditions. For jade plants, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are among the biggest culprits.

Damage includes dropping leaves, discoloration, distorted growth, and the general decline of your plant's health.

That's why it's important to regularly check your jade plant for pests. In particular, monitor the leaves and stem joints for clusters of white mealybugs, fine webbing of spider mites, and sooty mold or raised bumps for sap-sucking pests.

You should then take the necessary steps to get rid of spider mites on houseplants or the other pests you're dealing with. The first thing I always do is isolate pest-infested plants to ensure the problem doesn't spread to other houseplants.

Getting on top of pest problems early will give your plant the best chance. You can use diluted organic neem oil spray (available on Amazon) to make your houseplants less inhabitable to pests as a precaution.

Shop Our Jade Plant Edit

Another thing you can do this month is propagate your jade plant to multiply your houseplant collection for free. You can do this with stem cuttings, which can be taken using these houseplant snips on Amazon. Summer is a good time to do this, as the plant is in its active growth season and the warm, bright conditions encourage rooting.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

One of the biggest misconceptions about interior design is that the project ends the moment the builders leave, the decorators pack up, and the furniture is delivered. In truth, some of the most important decisions are made right at the very end.

This week I am on site for one of those final installation days – always one of my favorite parts of a project, and always, if I'm honest, one of the most anxious. This is the point where things go wrong: something that worked on the plan doesn't actually work in the space, a piece arrives damaged, a problem surfaces that nobody could have pre-empted. After years of planning, drawing, sourcing and problem-solving, this is meant to be the moment it all comes together. Or at least, that's the hope.

Installation days are rarely as tidy as people imagine. There are boxes everywhere, artwork waiting to be hung, furniture that needs shifting by a few inches, accessories to style, and countless decisions that simply can't be made until you're standing in the room itself. No matter how much planning goes into a project, there are always surprises. Yesterday gave me one of those moments.

We had a beautiful Japanese vintage screen, originally chosen for our client's bedroom. As we began placing everything, my first concern wasn't how it looked but whether it was practical. The family has a young toddler, and I was concerned about how easily it would be for her to bump into it and for it to fall on her. My instinct was to move it to the living room instead; rather than standing free, we'd open it flat and mount it on the wall as a piece of art. Practically, it made sense. Aesthetically, its scale meant it could finally do what it was always meant to do – fill a wall and hold the room.

I suggested it. My client hesitated; she loved the screen, and she loved the idea of it in her bedroom. I was in Ibiza; she was in London. We FaceTimed, and I sent photos of both rooms. The moment she saw the screen held up against the living room wall, she said, 'There's nowhere else for it. It belongs here.' So instead of insisting, we talked it through together.

Once we stepped back and looked at the room as a whole, it was obvious she was right. The screen didn't just fit the living room – it completed it, adding height, softness, and a sense of balance the room would have lost had we moved it anywhere else. It was a good reminder that great design isn't about always being right. It's about staying open.

People often imagine designers arrive with a fully formed vision that never changes – that every item has its place long before installation day, and all that's left is to unpack the lorry and set things down according to plan. If only it were that simple. Interior design is constantly evolving. Drawings become reality. Colors behave differently in daylight. A piece that looked perfect on paper suddenly feels too dominant, or surprisingly restrained. Artwork shifts depending on what surrounds it. A chair meant for one corner somehow finds its true home somewhere else entirely.

Sometimes the room tells you something you couldn't have predicted – and that's fine, once you're willing to pivot rather than force something to fit where it shouldn't. In fact, I'd go further: that willingness is often exactly where the magic happens.

As designers, we're trained to plan meticulously. Every detail considered, every finish selected, every dimension checked and rechecked. Preparation is essential. But there's a point where planning must give way to instinct. A successful installation isn't about rigidly following a floor plan – it's about responding to the space in front of you. That takes confidence, but it also takes humility, knowing when to stand by a decision, and knowing when someone else – a client, a craftsman, or the room itself – is showing you a better one.

I've learned that the best projects are never the ones where every decision goes exactly to plan. They're the ones where everyone involved stays curious – where the client trusts the designer enough to explore other possibilities, the designer listens closely enough to recognize a good instinct when they hear one, and the trades bring ideas shaped by years of hands-on experience. Together, those conversations produce results none of us could have reached alone. Good design has far more in common with collaboration than control.

That's part of why installation days remain some of the most rewarding of my job. There's the satisfaction of watching years of work finally take shape, and the strange thrill of seeing, in real life for the first time, pieces you'd only known from a screen – often better in person than in any photo. But just as much, it's the team, people all pulling toward the same goal, problem-solving together rather than pointing fingers. That collaborative energy, when it's there, is its own kind of happiness.

To an outsider, it can look like we're simply arranging pillows and moving furniture. In reality, every object is being weighed against everything else. We shift a lamp because the evening light falls differently. We move a chair a few inches because the conversation area suddenly feels more natural. We take accessories away because the room doesn't need them, or add something unexpected because it does. Rarely does everything stay exactly as planned – and for me, that's not a sign the design has failed. It's proof the process is still alive.

Homes aren't static. They're lived in, shaped by the people who inhabit them, refined over time. The most memorable interiors never feel overly controlled or self-conscious – they feel effortless.

As I left site yesterday, I couldn't help smiling at that screen. Had we moved it as planned, the room would still have been beautiful. But by pausing to listen and reconsider, it became something better. Sometimes the best design decision isn't the one you made six months ago on paper. It's the one you're brave enough to make in the room.

However carefully we plan, there should always be room for a little flexibility, a little curiosity, and the occasional happy accident. More often than not, that's exactly where the magic lives.

Interior designer Katie Harbison is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, where she shares her thoughts on decor. See the rest of her articles here.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring decor trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

There are plenty of plants that continue to thrive in August and beyond, despite challenging heatwave conditions. These late-summer resilient plants are becoming increasingly important as we look for tough shrubs, perennials and annuals that will tolerate extremes of temperature without missing a beat.

Long periods of drought and strong sunshine can be deadly for many plants, but not the ones I've chosen here. These will push on through, with minimal water and care, because one way or another they're simply built that way – whether it's because of their roots searching deep into the soil for every drop of available moisture, inherently drought-tolerant adaptations or a native tolerance for hot weather conditions.

I've taken the advice of some expert plantspeople and garden designers, who have recommended shrubs, annuals and perennials that don't notice a heatwave. The result is a roundup of seven brilliant, resilient plants (and there are still lots available at Nature Hills) that will fill your garden with color and greenery through late summer and into fall, however the mercury hits. Let's go ahead and dig a little deeper.

1. Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans)

Also known as Virginian trumpet flower, this is a great clue to the nature of this fast-growing deciduous climber with large trumpet-shaped flowers in hot shades of red, orange and yellow. A native of eastern North America, it will fill your yard with its big, bold flowers from midsummer to the end of fall.

Despite its resilient nature, it does come with a word of warning. It will get huge (around 40ft/12m in height) and is often considered invasive outside of its native range. Nevertheless, keep up a rigorous pruning regime in late winter/early spring and you'll be rewarded with one of the most colorful and drought-tolerant plants money can buy.

In terms of how to grow trumpet vine, as well as a good sturdy structure to clamber up, it needs a sunny spot, in either a garden border or a large pot, like this 20in barrel pot from Anthropologie. Lay over a thick layer of mulch, such as pea gravel from Lowes, in autumn to help retain moisture and keep out weeds.

Bonus: trumpet vine is adored by hummingbirds!

USDA Zones: 4-10

You can buy Chicklet Orange trumpet vine at My Perfect Plants

2. Adam's Needle (Yucca filamentosa)

Although there are more than 40 species of yucca plants, Yucca filamentosa is perhaps the most common. This North American native is an easy-going shrub that thrives in hot, dry weather, lending dramatic spikes of creamy white flowers to its bold sword-like evergreen foliage in late summer. They're gorgeously perfumed too.

Tammy Sons, CEO and founder of TN Nursery, is a big fan: 'Yuccas should be much more widely used: they maintain architectural form year-round, and don't need much supplemental irrigation when established.'

You'll need to give yuccas a spot in well-drained soil, perhaps in a rock garden or gravelled area (in fact it's one of the best plants for a desert garden), where they will thrive and provide a handsome architectural focal point up to 3ft (1m) in height. Yuccas are perfect for pots too, as they enjoy being a little root-bound. Choose a weighty container at least 18in (40cm) in diameter to stop it toppling over. Compost should be mixed with plenty of grit or perlite to give it the sharply-draining conditions it needs.

A pale gravel mulch – try something like these marble chips from Lowes – will set off those creamy blooms to perfection.

USDA Zones: 4-10

Buy Color Guard yucca at My Perfect Plants

3. Oleander (Nerium oleander)

My first memories of gorgeous oleander flowers are from a young age, seeing them planted along the central reservations of roads in southern France. I've since spotted them across all the hottest, driest, trickiest spots across southern Europe, where their glorious pink, white and, occasionally pale yellow, clusters of large tubular flowers are a real treat for the eye in high summer.

Angelika Zaber, a gardening expert at Online Turf, is an oleander enthusiast. 'A native of the Mediterranean, northern Africa and parts of Asia, oleander is adapted to hot, dry weather. It's an excellent choice if you want a plant that's guaranteed to thrive for years to come. It produces stunning blooms from late spring to early fall. These have a sweet scent with hints of vanilla and honey.'

This evergreen shrub happily grows in coastal salt-laden winds, tucked in verges by heavy traffic or simply in a sunny backyard. There are all kinds of varieties, growing to as tall as 20ft (6m) or dwarf varieties, which will reach just 3ft (1m) and make fabulous container specimens. Or plant in the garden as a windbreak, hedge or focal point shrub.

All parts of the oleander plant are highly toxic, however, so wear gloves when handling them. A protective pair of gloves like these Slarmor gauntlets from Amazon will keep you safe.

USDA Zones: 8-11

Buy Austin Pretty Limits oleander from Nature Hills

4. Salvias

There are hundreds of different salvias, in a huge variety of colors, shapes and sizes, including bedding salvias, annual salvias, tender varieties and culinary salvias. Just some of the many reasons to grow salvias.

All belong to the sage family but two of the best for heat tolerance, in my opinion, are shrubby evergreen varieties Salvia greggii and Salvia microphylla, both border salvias and perennials that flower for weeks on end, from summer right through to the first frosts of late fall.

'Salvias have a high tolerance for heat, attract pollinators and bloom profusely with just occasional deadheading,' says Tammy.

Of course, being sun lovers, to do this they need a south or west facing spot in a border or roomy container. Well-drained soil is a prerequisite too.

Cultivars I particularly recommend are red and white bicolor 'Hot Lips', purple ad white 'Amethyst Lips' and shocking pink 'Cerro Potosi'.

USDA Zones: 6-10 (depending on variety)

Shop the salvia collection at Nature Hills

5. Zinnias

For pops of the very brightest, most joyful color in pots, it has to zinnias. These Mexican natives are some of the simplest hardy annuals to grow from seed and they absolutely adore a heatwave, flowering from midsummer to late fall with very little care and attention.

In fact, these little color bombs are so low maintenance that many gardeners are ditching dahlias in favor of zinnias. They're just as colorful and striking, but much less hassle.

Angelika emphasises their environmental credentials: 'Zinnias are an amazing choice for any climate-conscious gardener. They handle heat and drought well and are rich in nectar, supporting beneficial pollinators such as bees, butterflies and even hummingbirds.'

In pots zinnias are perfect – aim to water deeply once or twice a week, from the bottom of the pot to avoid any possible problems with mildew. A classic terracotta plant saucer, like this one from Ace Hardware, is a huge help here.

Shop the range of zinnia seeds at Burpee

6. Fig Tree (Ficus carica)

'If you have room for a fig, grow one,' says Tammy. 'They're so fruitful, tough and heat tolerant once they're settled in.'

I couldn't agree more. A fig tree is beautiful throughout the year – even in winter its shapely branches provide structure and interest. And those huge leathery leaves are lush and cooling, dripping with fruit, once in early summer and again from August into September.

Choose from purple-skinned varieties such as reliable award-winning 'Brown Turkey' or pale green 'White Marseilles'. How to grow a fig tree? All are best planted with a restricted root run. A hole 2ft (60cm) deep, lined with vertical paving slabs and started off with an 8in (20cm) layer of stones, is ideal, or grow n a large handsome container about 1ft (30cm) in diameter for a fabulous statement pot.

USDA Zones: 7-10

Shop the range of fig trees at Burpee

7. Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

Crepe myrtle is classed as a deciduous small tree or large shrub (it grows to around 26ft/8m) with large lilac-esque panicle flowers in shades of purple, white and pink from late summer into fall. The foliage is pretty too, emerging a lovely bronze color in spring.

Tammy highlights the bark of the crepe myrtle tree as worthy of special mention: 'When I think of plants that not only survive but look good through several weeks of extreme summer heat, crepe myrtle is near the top of my list. Its blooms beautify through summer, and its colorful bark lasts for weeks after the flowers are done.'

Obviously a sunny planting spot is needed, and a sheltered one too. A light prune in late winter will encourage more summer blooms and strong new growth. Apart from that, once established, crepe myrtle is an easygoing sun lover that will flourish in a heatwave.

USDA Zones: 6-9

Shop the crepe myrtle range at Fast Growing Trees

Finally, a few words that are true for all new plants, drought-tolerant sun lovers or moisture-loving shade-tolerant species. All of them will need some TLC in their first year. Avoid planting in summer, and when you do plant, soak the pot well first. Once planted, water your newbies in deeply, then continue to water regularly throughout that first season, which will allow them to send their roots deep into the earth, become established and, ultimately, fend pretty much for themselves.

If you've chosen plants like the ones I've mentioned above, then you'll be making your life easier and more beautiful for many hot summers to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Tomato plants can look a tad weary in late summer. The stresses of quickly growing stems and leaves, developing and ripening fruit, and facing hot midsummer temperatures can take their toll on plants. There is still time left in the season, though, and you can encourage them to end on a high.

Growing tomatoes in late summer is more about gentle encouragement and preserving what you have got. You need to ensure the fruits you have develop healthily and ripen, and that is the priority rather than encouraging huge flushes of new growth.

So, what can you do to rejuvenate ageing and tired tomato plants in late summer? The answer is selective pruning, regular watering and feeding (you can get Miracle-Gro water-soluble tomato food at Walmart), harvesting fruits when they are ready, and controlling any problems. Here’s what I do with my tomatoes to revive and prolong plants through the final stages of the season.

Prune Leaves and Shoots

As the season goes on, tomato foliage can look a little worse for wear. Tomato leaves can turn yellow, brown, spotted, or deformed. Many factors can cause tomato leaves to curl or turn discolored, including nutrient deficiencies, poor watering, diseases, and natural old age.

For healthy plants, it is beneficial to remove any less-than-desirable foliage towards the bottom of the plant. If you haven’t been pruning tomatoes and removing lower leaves through the season so far, do it now.

It keeps plants healthy by improving airflow, allows more light to reach fruits to ripen them, and makes watering tomato plants easier – it is plain sailing to direct water to the base of the plant without unnecessary foliage in the way.

As we get towards the end of the season, you also need to continue removing side shoots as they appear. You need to put as much energy as possible into ripening existing fruit, rather than new stems.

A pair of sharp pruning shears is crucial for removing tomato leaves and larger side shoots. I have often used a pair of Japanese pruning shears like these Okatsune pruners on Amazon for this task and found them sharp, lightweight, and comfortable to use.

Alternatively, these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips at Walmart are perfect for precise snipping tasks like removing leaves and side shoots.

Routinely Feed Plants

Hopefully, you have been fertilizing tomatoes every week or two since they started flowering, which is the trigger point to start giving them a tomato feed (or any fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium) that encourages fruit development.

If you have, that is good, and you should continue this until around three weeks before your first frosts, or when your last ripe tomatoes are ready to harvest. Feed plants every two weeks, or every week if you are growing tomatoes in pots or grow bags.

However, if you haven’t been feeding your crop regularly, now is the time to make a positive change. They may desperately need a pick-me-up, and a lack of essential nutrients could well be why your plants look tired or are not producing a good crop so far.

Don’t give tomatoes too much nitrogen now, as it’ll encourage foliage growth. You want to encourage fruits to develop and ripen. Use a liquid tomato fertilizer – such as this tomato booster at Walmart – and feed plants weekly to breathe some new life into them.

Alternatively, you can feed tomatoes using a seaweed fertilizer, such as this fish and seaweed liquid fertilizer on Amazon, or make your own tomato fertilizer by brewing a nettle or comfrey tea.

Water Consistently

Tomatoes are very susceptible to changes in moisture. How and where you grow the crop can make a massive difference, and will impact how much you need to water your tomatoes to keep them thriving.

For example, tomatoes growing in a greenhouse are likely to experience sweltering temperatures in midsummer. If they are in grow bags – or indeed even if you use grow bags to grow tomatoes on a balcony or patio – the soil can dry out incredibly quickly. I have seen tomatoes go from happy to wilting in a blink of an eye during a heatwave when they are in pots or grow bags.

When tomatoes go short on water, plants wilt, drop flowers, and curl leaves as they try to conserve moisture. The fruit is also affected; inconsistent watering – periods of drying out followed by a soaking – commonly causes tomatoes to split or succumb to blossom-end rot.

Tired tomato plants could easily be suffering from drought stress during late summer. The key is to water consistently and, when you do water plants, water deeply. If you allow the soil to go back and forth between dry and waterlogged, you’ll have miserable tomato plants that likely won’t provide much towards the end of the season.

Pick Tomatoes When Ripe

Harvesting tomatoes is super-satisfying – a summer highlight. A perfectly ripe tomato will be deep red (or yellow, orange or purple, depending on the tomato variety) and not green, feel firm but give a little when squeezed, and come away from the plant easily when twisted.

You need to keep on top of picking tomatoes; otherwise, it slows down the ripening of newer ones. The plants will focus energy on the older fruits, which may crack, go moldy, or simply drop off if they are left too long. This halts the production of new blooms and fruits, and other tomatoes still ripening on the plant may go without nutrients.

To keep your harvests going into late summer and fall, it is crucial to check your plants regularly and pick the fruits once they’re ready. To help tomatoes ripen on the vine later in the season, remove foliage, snip off new flowers, and cut the top of the central stem to focus the energy into ripening the existing fruits.

Watch for Pests and Disease

Late summer is unfortunately a prime time for plants to show the effects of pests and tomato diseases. It can cause them to look tired and show symptoms such as yellowing foliage, stunted growth, a white coating on leaves, or wilting.

Common tomato pests like aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites can cause issues. But it is the tomato hornworm that causes most damage, as the caterpillars can completely defoliate plants. The best way to combat tomato hornworms is to hand-pick the caterpillars or spray plants with Bacillus thuringiensis, available at Amazon.

Young caterpillars can be targeted with insecticidal soap (available at Walmart), which is also a proven way to get rid of aphids and other small soft-bodied pests, such as flies and mites.

If you do see any signs of disease, fast action is crucial to preserve your plants and any future harvests.

Thankfully, diseases such as blight, leaf spot, and powdery mildew can be combatted by pruning off diseased leaves and watering the soil rather than the foliage. You can also spray copper fungicide like this from Amazon.

However, bacterial diseases such as wilt cannot be cured, and plants must be removed and destroyed.

What to Shop

Around 4-6 weeks before the end of the season, it is advisable to cut the growing tip of the tomato plants.

This technique, known as topping, encourages the plants to focus their energy on ripening all existing fruits rather than producing new flowers and fruits. This is a crucial, and often overlooked, task to ensure you get the most from your plants before their time is up. It is a tomato growing mistake not to top plants, and you’ll miss out on harvests as a result.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?