By April, your Easter cactus has likely finished its dazzling spring display. Those vibrant, star-shaped flowers that brought life to your windowsill are fading, and the plant is beginning to settle into a gentler, quieter rhythm. It’s tempting to think that little attention is needed now, but this is actually a crucial stage in its cycle. Knowing what to do with an Easter cactus in April can make all the difference to its health and the quality of blooms next year.

This is the perfect moment to focus on Easter cactus care. Light adjustments now – such as reducing watering, keeping it in bright indirect light, and letting the soil breathe – help the plant recover from flowering without stress. Even though the blooms are gone, the roots and stems are quietly rebuilding energy, laying the groundwork for a strong, vibrant display next season.

Treating April as a gentle reset rather than a period of neglect is key to keeping your cactus thriving year after year.

1. Let Your Easter Cactus Rest and Recover

Once the blooms have faded, your Easter cactus enters a quieter phase and deserves a gentler approach. Hold back on heavy watering or fertilizing, and let the soil dry out slightly between drinks.

Keep the plant in a bright spot with indirect light, giving the stems room to recover while the roots quietly gather energy for the next wave of growth. Think of April as a gentle reset rather than a full rest – a small change now sets the stage for healthy, vibrant blooms later.

2. Water With Care

As your Easter cactus eases into this slower stretch, it will naturally need less water. This is where many people go wrong – too much moisture too soon can do more harm than good. Let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again, and always ensure there’s good drainage so roots aren’t left sitting in excess water, which can cause root rot.

If you’re not quite sure when it’s time to water, a moisture meter can be a game changer. The Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a simple, reliable option that helps you read the soil properly, so you can keep your plant hydrated without the risk of overwatering.

3. Start Feeding When New Growth Appears

Toward the end of April, keep an eye out for the first signs of fresh growth – this is your cue to start feeding again. A diluted, balanced houseplant fertilizer every few weeks will support new stems and help the plant rebuild its strength after flowering.

A gentle option like Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food works well, delivering nutrients without overwhelming the plant, while slow-release formulas designed for succulents are a good low-maintenance alternative.

4. Repot Only If Needed

If your cactus is starting to look crowded or you notice roots pushing through the drainage holes, April is a good time to repot an Easter cactus. Choose a pot that’s only slightly larger than the current one and use a well-draining cactus or succulent mix to keep excess moisture in check.

For a modern, fuss-free option, the square Self-Watering Planter Pots from Target strike a nice balance between style and practicality, helping maintain consistent moisture while elevating the look of your plant.

5. Keep an Eye Out for Pests

Easter cacti are generally easygoing, but they can occasionally attract spider mites or mealybugs, especially in drier conditions. It’s worth checking over the stems every now and then so you can catch any issues early.

If you do spot pests, a gentle solution like Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap works well to keep things under control without damaging the plant. For a more natural approach, Neem Oil Spray from Amazon is another reliable option, helping to tackle pests while also supporting overall plant health.

April may be a quieter moment for your Easter cactus, but it’s far from unimportant. A little thoughtful care now – gentle watering, light feeding, and the occasional pest check – helps the plant recover from its spring display and rebuild its strength. Get this stage right, and you’re setting the foundation for healthy growth and another vibrant round of blooms next season.

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March is a key month for your Easter cactus. After the quiet winter, buds start to swell, and flowers begin to open, transforming a simple windowsill pot into something truly spectacular.

It’s the plant’s moment to shine – but it’s also a delicate time. Handle it too much, and buds may drop; neglect it, and it can end up looking tired or underwhelming.

With the right Easter cactus care, you can support healthy growth and enjoy a vibrant, long-lasting bloom. Focusing on light, water, temperature, and gentle feeding will help your cactus reach its full flowering potential, keeping it strong now and setting it up for next year’s display.

1. Let the Light In – But Avoid Harsh Sun

March is all about light for your Easter cactus. These indoor flowering plants need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive – an east-facing window or a spot with soft, filtered spring light is ideal.

Too much direct sun can scorch the fleshy segments, leaving them pale or spotted, while too little light can cause buds to fail or flowers to open small and weak.

Take a few days to observe your plant. If the segments look a little droopy or dull, gently move them closer to the light, but avoid full glare. With this simple step, you can grow cacti successfully indoors and give your Easter cactus the best chance of producing a vibrant, long-lasting bloom that really steals the show.

You can also use a Clip Grow Light from Amazon to ensure your plant achieves optimum light levels.

2. Water Thoughtfully – More Often, But Carefully

Unlike desert cacti, Easter cacti thrive on consistent moisture, especially while they’re in bloom.

Getting the watering right at this stage can make all the difference. Check the top inch of soil daily – when it feels dry, water thoroughly so the soil is evenly moist but never soggy. Always ensure excess water drains freely, and avoid letting the pot sit in standing water, which is a fast track to houseplant root rot.

A little underwatering is far safer than too much. Drooping segments can usually bounce back, but waterlogged roots rarely recover. For extra peace of mind, a popular choice is the Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon – simple, reliable, and perfect for preventing overwatering. With careful attention, you’ll help your Easter cactus stay healthy and strong, giving it the best chance to produce a long-lasting, vibrant floral display.

3. Leave It Alone Once Buds Form

One of the trickiest parts of March care is knowing when to step back. Once buds appear, your Easter cactus becomes surprisingly sensitive to movement. Even a small shift – turning the pot, changing its position, or adjusting the light – can cause buds to drop. Think of it like admiring a delicate piece of art: you want to enjoy it without touching.

Leave your cactus in a stable spot and let it do its thing. With a little patience, you’ll be rewarded with fuller, longer-lasting blooms that make all that careful care worthwhile.

4. Maintain Steady Temperatures

Easter cacti thrive in stable indoor temperatures, ideally between 60–75°F (16–24°C). Sudden extremes – like a radiator blasting hot air or a drafty window – can stress the plant, causing buds to drop or flowers to fade prematurely.

A quick check is all you need: if the cactus feels cool to the touch but the segments aren’t wilting, it’s likely comfortable. These plants also love a little extra humidity, which makes them surprisingly good for a bathroom or kitchen environment.

If the air in your home is dry and you don’t have a humidifier, try placing your cactus on this top-rated Amazon pebble tray with a small amount of water – evaporation will gently moisten the surrounding air.

Alternatively, a plant mister, like the one from Target, works just as well to increase humidity and keep your indoor flowering plant happy. With steady temperatures and a touch of moisture in the air, your Easter cactus will stay healthy and bloom beautifully.

5. Begin Feeding – Only After Flowering Fades

While your Easter cactus is in full bloom, it’s best to hold off on fertilizing. Feeding at this stage doesn’t benefit the plant much and can even cause unnecessary stress.

Once the last flowers begin to fade – usually later in March or early April – you can start a gentle, monthly feed using a balanced, diluted houseplant fertilizer. This encourages fresh growth and helps set the plant up for a stronger, more vibrant display next year.

6. Light Pruning Comes Later

March isn’t the time for heavy pruning. At this stage, remove only dead or damaged segments and leave any major shaping until after the flowering period ends. This lets the plant focus its energy on producing blooms rather than regrowth. Pruning once the flowers fade encourages branching, which can lead to fuller, more vibrant flowers next year.

A simple action step: mark your calendar for early April – that’s when you can start pruning and begin a light feeding routine to support new growth. For delicate segments, precise tools make a big difference. The Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears on Amazon are a top-rated choice, easy to handle, and perfect for small cuts. I’ve also found a Succulent Tool Kit invaluable for keeping all my indoor flowering plants healthy and thriving year-round.

March is an important time for your Easter Cactus. Unlike Christmas cacti at this time of year, which are recovering, your plant is in full swing – buds are swelling, flowers are opening, and color is starting to fill your space.

The best thing you can do is to support the display; don’t try to force growth. Keep it in bright, indirect light, water thoughtfully, maintain a steady environment, and resist moving or handling buds.

With a little patience and consistent care, your Easter cactus will shine for weeks, giving you a spectacular spring display. And when the blooms finally fade, that’s your cue to feed, lightly prune, and prepare the plant for next year’s show. Trust the process, and this resilient little cactus will reward you year after year with its star-shaped flowers and cheerful spring presence.

Growing houseplants is a lot more work than you might initially expect. It isn't as simple as choosing any plant and putting it in any spot of your home - different plants thrive in different conditions, so you need to think carefully about which rooms to house which plants in.

Not only this, you also need to consider which plants aid the feelings you wish to evoke in specific rooms. For example, the best bedroom plants are often those that help create a calming sanctuary - this is especially true in Feng Shui practices. On the flip side of this, there are a number of houseplants you should never place in your bedroom.

Whether it's because they're Feng Shui plants to avoid or they simply don't grow well in a bedroom environment, Feng Shui and interior design experts warn against using these plants in this part of the home. Here, we explore further and take a look at alternative bedroom plants to choose instead.

5 houseplants you should never place in your bedroom

If you're trying to be better plant parent, taking into consideration the best growing environment for your houseplants is key. Not only this, you'll get the most of your plants by choosing the right ones for the right spaces in your home.

That's why Feng Shui and interior design experts say it's a mistake to choose one of these five houseplants you should never place in your bedroom:

1. Snake plant

It may surprise you to see snake plants at the top of the list, especially because they're considered one of the best air-cleaning indoor plants. However, experts say there are a few reasons to avoid placing them in the room where you seek rest:

'I don't recommend snake plants because they have sword-like, spiky leaves which cut into the energy,' says Suzanne Roynon, Feng Shui expert. 'This can cause exhaustion, tension, stress, prickly conversations, and sharp words. None of which are really conducive to a harmonious, balanced environment,' she explains.

Even though many believe snake plants aid better sleep, you may find they are a bad energy item. On top of this, it's also a toxic plant, presenting an unwelcoming energy.

An alternative plant with less intrusive foliage is an aspidistra, or the cast-iron plant (available at Walmart). It has slender, non-toxic foliage, reminiscent of snake plants, but with softer appearance. These indoor low light plants also adapt well to shade, so won't complain when you have an occasional lazy morning and don't open your bedroom curtains for a few hours.

2. Cacti

Just like snake plants, cacti have spiky foliage that isn't ideal for creating a relaxing environment in a bedroom. Of course, there a wide range of cacti and indoor succulent types or all different shapes, but those with sharper foliage are the ones to avoid.

'Be careful with anything that is spiky or looks dangerous, like cacti,' says Hannah Yang, Psy.D, licensed psychologist and Feng Shui Expert. 'Spiky leaves can send out a threatening energy,' she adds.

When relocating your cacti, take care not to choose them as bathroom plants, either. Cacti are native to dry environments and won't grow well in the moist, humid environment of a bathroom.

Instead of cacti, choose succulents for your bedroom. Hannah notes rounder foliage is best and there are plenty of succulents with softer shapes available - like this succulent assortment from Walmart.

3. Euphorbia trigona

It's not just about avoiding plants that hinder the energy in our bedrooms, as it's also wise to not choose any toxic or irritant plants.

Euphorbia trigona (African milk tree), for example, is a popular plant for its tall spikes, but it does have an irritant sap and is toxic if ingested by humans or pets.

'As an interior designer and florist, I’ve worked with houseplants in many spaces, including bedrooms, where the choice of plants can greatly impact comfort and energy,' says Magda Callery.

'Bedrooms are a space for relaxation, and the risk of accidental contact with irritant euphorbia houseplants makes them less ideal for this area,' she explains.

For a pet-safe indoor plant alternative to African milk tree, try growing mother of millions kalanchoe. It's a succulent that has a similar skeletal look, and you'll also spot its pups hanging off the foliage which you can propagate.

4. Peace lily

You may have heard some houseplants absorb moisture, which occurs through foliar uptake, but there are also certain houseplants that transpire more than others, creating a humid environment. Peace lilies are included in this list, along with other indoor flowering plants.

Transpiration is the process of plants losing water through evaporation, like sweating. Flowering plants tend to have a higher transpiration rate than others due to having pores in their foliage and stomata.

The benefit of this is peace lilies are great at helping to increase humidity for other houseplants. However, as Magda notes: 'If you live in a climate that is already humid or you like a dry, comfortable sleeping environment, this isn't ideal.'

Instead, opt for variegated indoor plants that give you the same pop of color as flowering plants. For example, Monstera deliciosa 'Thai constellation' (from The Sill).

5. Calathea

Calatheas are notorious for being tricky. They'll quickly have a dramatic reaction to improper care, which is why it's essential to avoid calathea mistakes and find the optimal spot for these plants in your home - including providing sufficient light.

To care for calatheas correctly, they need plenty of exposure to light and will benefit from this in the early morning. For this reason, prevent keeping one in your bedroom where curtains may remain shut for some hours in daylight.

A lack of light may stunt growth of your calathea, cause calathea leaves to curl, or even lose their beautiful variegation that makes them so popular. You're also less likely to see your calathea move its leaves up and down (earning these plants the common name of 'prayer plant') if it isn't growing in plenty of bright light.

Alternative options to calatheas to still give you unique foliage in your bedroom include Anthurium clarinervium and the best begonia varieties.

FAQs

Can any houseplants help you sleep?

There are a range of houseplants thought to aid better sleep in different ways. For example, plants to make a living room smell nice can be used to bring relaxing aromas to your bedroom. Meanwhile, some plants are considered air-cleaning, like spider plants and ivy, which might leave your bedroom feeling more fresh for sleeping.

Of course, everyone has different preferences over houseplants and you may find one of these plants actually works well for the overall aesthetic and feel you are trying to create in your bedroom. Just don't forget to keep in mind whether a plant can thrive in your bedroom before selecting it - this goes for the houseplants you should never place in your entryway, too.

When considering which houseplants to place in your bedroom, you might want to also take a look at our expert guide on houseplants that reduce stress and can bring a feeling of calm to your space.

Prickly pears are iconic cacti that are easily identified by their paddle-shaped leaves. Native to the southwestern United States and Mexico, these resilient cacti have adapted to thrive in challenging desert environments, yet they can also be grown in the home.

In terms of how to grow prickly pears indoors, while they are mostly low-maintenance, there are specific requirements and rules to follow, particularly regarding soil, light and water. With a small amount of care, you can be sure that your cactus thrives.

So, if you are looking to grow one of the best indoor plants, you have come to the right place. Whether you are a houseplant beginner or a cactus aficionado, our guide has all the information you need to learn how to grow prickly pears indoors. And who knows, with the right care, you might even enjoy flowers and fruits in the years to come.

How to grow prickly pears indoors

'Prickly pears are some of our finest native cacti,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'Outdoors, they can grow from US hardiness zone 5 to US hardiness zone 9, growing well in dry and sunny locations, although indoors, where the temperature is constant, they can be grown in any region.' Here are three simple steps to follow when learning how to care for a cactus.

Live prickly pear plants can be ordered online from Amazon.

1. Use well-draining soil

'Prickly pears are some of the best desert plants, so thrive in dry, arid conditions,' Katie says. 'This is important to remember when growing them indoors. You want to mimic a sandy or rocky soil like you might find in a desert in California or Mexico.'

One easy way to do this is to use a cactus-specific potting mix, which will contain plenty of sand, grit and drainage material to ensure that your prickly pear does not sit in water. Cactus potting soil is available from Walmart.

For a DIY alternative, you could try to create your own cactus mix by combining 3 parts of standard potting soil, 2 parts of sand or horticultural grit as well as 1 part of perlite. This will help to create a well-draining mix that suits cacti and succulents.

2. Water prickly pears sparingly

'Prickly pears are drought-tolerant plants so need little water to survive. In their natural habitat, they can go for weeks or even months without a drop of rain,' Katie says. They can survive such environments because of water storage adaptations, whereby water is held in their paddle-like leaves, allowing the plant to go for long periods relying only on reserves.

So, when growing prickly pears indoors, you should always allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. In spring and summer, water once every two to four weeks, reducing to once a month or even less in fall and winter.

In addition, feeding indoor plants is also important. Remember that in such a controlled environment, plants rely on you for nutrients. Feed sparingly, using a cacti or succulent formula, stopping towards the end of summer.

Finally, when watering or feeding plants, always check that the water can freely drain at the base of your pot. Stone, grit, or even roots can clog drainage holes, so be sure to regularly monitor this to prevent waterlogging.

3. Position prickly pears in a sunny spot

As with most tropical indoor plants, prickly pears require bright, direct sunlight to thrive. 'Cacti should always be positioned in a sunny spot,' Katie says. 'When growing indoors, you want to place them near a window, ideally in a location that enjoys at least six or more hours of bright light.'

If natural light is insufficient, consider using a grow light to maintain healthy growth. In low light, cacti and succulents will tend to search for sunshine, producing leggy or unusual growth as they grow towards a light source, which is a sign your plant is struggling.

FAQs

Should I move my cacti outdoors during summer?

If you are able to move prickly pears outside during summer, it can help to give your plants a boost. Cacti in particular will enjoy the increased sunlight, and fresh air can help to eradicate pests and problems which can be an issue when growing in humid zones in the home.

How often should I repot my prickly pear?

'Repot your cacti every two to three years, choosing a container that’s slightly larger than the root ball,' Katie says. 'While prickly pears grow very slowly, providing a little more space every few years and refreshing the soil will encourage new growth.'

While cacti are striking and structural plants, they are not a good plant option if you have children or inquisitive pets. Instead, try growing echeveria or crassula, or one of the many other types of succulents that do not have spikes. For more plant information, see our guide on how to care for succulents.

Q: I recently heard someone talking about a crested cactus and am intrigued. What are they, and how do you look after them?

A: These unusual specimens are a great addition to any indoor cactus collection. The term doesn’t refer to a specific variety, but rather a mutation (or type of damage to the growth points) that can occur to many varieties of cacti and succulents, explains Justin Hancock of Costa Farms. Kiersten Rankel, an expert from plant-care app Greg, says this mutation is called ‘fasciation’, and causes the plant's growing tip to fan out, creating a wavy, fan-like shape instead of the usual cylindrical or rounded growth.

‘Because it’s a difference in growth habit, most crested cacti don’t require different or specialized conditions than the species they came from,’ Justin says. But if you need some general guidelines, the tips below will help.

Provide the right growing environment

In general, provide bright light (the more light, the better), and average household relative humidity levels, advises Justin.

‘They prefer a stable temperature of 65-85°F, and should be kept safe from freezing temperatures,’ Kiersten adds. ‘A sunny windowsill is ideal.’

This highly-rated Bluetooth thermometer and humidity monitor from Govee at Amazon will help you keep the surroundings optimal.

Avoid overwatering

Knowing how to water a cactus is key if you want these plants to thrive. ‘Cacti tend to be low-water plants, depending on the species, so you may want to water once every 10 to 20 days or so, depending on your conditions,’ says Justin. 'In brighter spots and if you fertilize, your plant will grow a little faster and want a bit more water than the same plant would if it were in lower light levels and not fertilized.'

He recommends inserting a wooden toothpick into a drainage hole of the pot, which will help monitor moisture levels. ‘Leave it there for a few seconds then slowly pull it out. If it’s clean, then your cactus is probably a little dry and could benefit from watering. If there’s enough moisture in the soil that bits of soil adhere to the toothpick, then it’s probably moist enough.’

Repot when rootbound

It’s generally a good idea to repot houseplants when they become rootbound. ‘Because cacti tend to have relatively small root systems, you may find it takes several years for the cactus to need repotting,’ says Justin.

When repotting your cactus, Justin suggests gently wrapping it in a towel or wearing thick leather gloves to protect your hands from the spines. Transfer it to a larger pot (‘it’s best to go one pot size up, so if your cactus is in a two-inch-diameter pot, go to a three-inch-diameter pot’), filled with a potting mix suitable for succulents and cacti.

‘The best time to repot is in spring, at the start of the growing season,’ adds Kiersten. ‘Allow the plant to acclimate for a few days before watering again.’

FAQs

What are some problems that can occur with crested cacti?

‘There don’t tend to be too many challenges specific to growing crested cacti varieties indoors – they’re generally the same challenges as other indoor cacti,’ says Justin.

‘Watch for pests – particularly mealybugs (which can appear like small, white, cottony bits on the plant), which can be treated with an insecticidal soap or insecticide.’

Overwatering is a common concern for indoor cacti, he adds, as is too little light.

What are some varieties of crested cactus?

According to Justin, many different cacti and succulents have crested forms. These include Cereus spegazzinii f. cristata, Echeveria pulvinata f. cristata, Euphorbia lactea f. cristata, Myrtillocactus geometrizans f. cristata, and Pachycereus marginatus f. cristata.

One common example is the brain cactus, Mammillaria elongata f. cristata, Justin adds. It grows in a unique shape often compared to a human brain, he says, but the regular form (Mammillaria elongata) looks more traditional, with finger-like growth.

Looking for more advice on indoor cacti? Our guide on how to grow cacti from cuttings will help you expand your collection for free.

You're scrolling through social media to see a beautiful plant captioned as a prickly pear and suddenly think, 'that looks an awful lot like my Christmas cactus.' Closer inspection of your Christmas cactus and you're left questioning which plant you really have growing in your home.

If you relate to this scenario, don't worry. The best of us have had to debate Christmas cactus vs prickly pear when taking a second look at the new houseplant we've just bought, as these two statement plants have a very similar appearance. Even if you have already taken time to decipher whether you have a Christmas cactus or Thanksgiving cactus, you might still not have spotted your plant is actually a prickly pear. You might have also been fooled if your prickly pear has been getting along fine when receiving Christmas cactus care, as the two's care requirements only differ slightly.

Now is the time to finally know the truth. Here, experts have outlined everything you need to know about Christmas cactus vs prickly pear, so you can spot the difference and provide the right care for the plant you really have.

Christmas cactus vs prickly pear: appearance differences

It's understandable why you might have mistaken your prickly pear for a Christmas cactus. Upon first look, they seem the same - both with a succulent-cacti form and orange or pink flowers. However, there are a few key differences you'll spot if you take a closer look.

Firstly, take a look at the leaves of your plant: 'Christmas cacti have ragged, scalloped leaves that grow in segments,' says Lotte Berendsen, a certified botanist from the PlantIn app.

'Prickly pears grow upward with plate-like sections that stack on top of each other. Like many other cacti species, prickly pears have spines. This is something that the Christmas cacti does not have,' she adds.

The plants also belong to different plant groups. Despite its name, a Christmas cactus actually belongs to the succulent family, while prickly pears are from the cactus family. As indicated by its name, prickly pears also produce fruit that is edible. In fact, the whole plant is edible.

The fruit prickly pears produce can easily be mistaken for Christmas cactus flower buds. After all, they are similar colors and shapes. But, you can pay attention to when your plant blooms to spot the difference.

'Christmas cacti thank their name for their blooms. This plant blooms right around Christmas time. The blooms are pink or red and typically grow at the end of the plant’s segments,' explains Lotte.

'Prickly pears, on the other hand, bloom during the summer months (May to July). These impressive, large flowers will only bloom for one day, but with many different flower buds growing on a single plant, the blooming season can last up to two months,' she adds.

If your Christmas cactus isn't blooming, it might be because you haven't given your Christmas cactus a period of darkness - something it needs to trigger flowering. In comparison, prickly pears have shorter-lived blooms, as Lotte notes, and may stop blooming once in their dormant season of fall and winter.

Christmas cactus vs prickly pear: growth habit differences

Another obvious difference between a Christmas cactus and prickly pear is their growth habit. This will become more apparent as the plants mature.

'Christmas cacti are epiphytic, which means they naturally do not grow in soil, but climb on surrounding plants and trees instead,' says Lotte.

Christmas cacti are native to the coastal mountains and rainforests of Brazil, where they grow in a similar way to other tropical indoor plants, like orchids and monsteras: 'Epiphytes draw moisture and nutrients through their leaves from the air surrounding them, rather than from the soil,' Lotte adds.

In comparison, prickly pears are native to dry, desert regions of North America and Mexico: 'The prickly pear is a cactus that grows in sandy, poor soils. As this plant grows in arid climates, it does not have any need to absorb moisture from the air, as there is hardly any humidity available,' Lotte explains.

While it's unlikely you'll see a prickly pear form a vining habit, many choose to let their Christmas cactus trail indoor hanging plant. When grown indoors, prickly pears are much more suited to pots on windowsills and coffee tables, making the list of the best small indoor plants.

Christmas cactus vs prickly pear: care differences

Hopefully it's now easier for you to identify whether you're growing a prickly pear or Christmas cactus. At this point, it's important to understand what each plant needs to thrive in your home.

'Because Christmas cacti are native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil, they grow in moist and humid environments. They are also naturally epiphytic, which means they appreciate high humidity,' Lotte says. 'If you want to ensure your Christmas cactus remains happy, consider adding a humidifier to boost the air moisture,' she suggests.

There are plenty of ways to increase humidity for houseplants. You could get a humidifier (like this one from Walmart), as Lotte suggests, or place more plants around your Christmas cacti, for example.

Make sure to also not water your Christmas cactus too often and avoid Christmas cactus mistakes by only fertilizing your Christmas cactus during its active growth season.

For a prickly pear, the care requirements are slightly different, especially when it comes to watering your houseplant:

'Drought is this plant’s best friend, so make sure you keep the soil dry. I recommend only watering about once a month,' says Lotte. 'Before you water, check the plant’s leaves. If it seems droopy and a little wrinkly, it is time to water. If not, it is better to wait for a little while longer,' she advises.

Another way you can test if it's time to water your houseplants is with this soil moisture meter from Amazon.

Like other cacti houseplants, you also need to ensure your prickly pear gets plenty of sun. 'Place this cactus in a spot with bright, direct sunlight for at least four-six hours a day. Too little light and your cactus won’t go into bloom in the summer months,' warns Lotte.

FAQs

When is prickly pear ready to eat?

Prickly pears are edible plants. While it's true their flowers and stems are also edible, many people choose to only harvest and eat the fruit this plant produces. The fruit will be ready to eat when it is plump, has smooth skin and feels heavy. Unripe prickly pear fruit will not come away from the cactus with ease.

Can Christmas cactus grow outdoors?

Yes, it is possible to grow a Christmas cactus outdoors across US hardiness zone nine to zone 11. However, these plants are not frost-hardy and will need to be overwintered indoors during the colder months. During winter, you can easily care for your Christmas cactus indoors as you would when growing it as a houseplant.

Something else to consider when growing either a Christmas cactus or prickly pear is the best type of pot to use.

'Ideally use a pot that is made of porous material, such as terracotta indoor planters or clay,' Lotte recommends. 'Keep in mind Christmas cacti need slightly more moisture and will need to be watered more frequently in this type of pot,' she adds.

The Christmas cactus has earned its place as a beloved holiday decor staple, popular for its vibrant winter blooms and distinctive charm. But why stick to just this one plant when there’s a whole host of alternatives that can bring their own festive flair to your celebrations?

Whether you’re drawn to bright blossoms, like those on the Christmas cactus, to ornamental berries, or to eye-catching foliage, these Christmas plants will help make your seasonal decor exciting and memorable.

We spoke to plant experts who shared their favorite Christmas cactus alternatives that will add a touch of seasonal magic to your home.

1. Desert Rose (Adenium obesum)

For those who love incorporating flowers into their Christmas decor ideas or are looking for alternative gift ideas for the holidays, the desert rose is a truly stunning choice.

As one of the best desert plants, it stands out for its trumpet-shaped blooms in red, pink, or white, paired with a sculptural, thickened lower stem – a hallmark of desert flowers – that adds an artistic touch.

Matthew Wilson, horticulturist and CEO of Handy Gardeners shares his expert tips on how to grow a desert rose: 'Expose it to bright, direct sunlight, and water sparingly. Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. It thrives in warm conditions above 65°F and prefers low humidity.'

2. Christmas Cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum)

Berries are undeniably synonymous with Christmas, adding a festive touch whether they’re adorning a wreath, woven into a garland, or potted to add a fun burst of color on a mantel.

Matthew Wilson highlights the charm of Christmas cherries, noting, these berries resemble miniature decorations. 'The bright red or orange berries look like little ornament balls, paired with small, glossy green leaves that make the plant appear naturally decorative.'

For extra festive flair, you can decorate your houseplant for Christmas by potting it in a holiday-themed planter with complementary colors, such as this Mija ceramic pot planter from Wayfair, or adding string lights, such as these from Amazon.

To care for your Christmas cherry, keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and place it in bright, indirect sunlight. Thriving in temperatures between 60 to 70°F, it’s well suited for winter.

3. Goldfish Plant (Nematanthus gregarius)

The goldfish plant might not be a conventional Christmas choice, but its vibrant red-orange blooms and lush green foliage make it a delightful fit for the festive season. As a succulent, it brings an unexpected twist to holiday decor, proving that plants don’t have to be conventional to capture the Christmas spirit.

With its whimsical, fish-shaped flowers, this playful plant remains in bloom during the festive period – making it a must-have for holiday decorators. These two goldfish plants are available at Amazon.

For healthy growth, the goldfish plant prefers evenly moist, well-drained soil, avoiding waterlogging. It thrives in bright but indirect sunlight, making it perfect for spots like kitchens or bathrooms where humidity is higher. Just be sure to let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again for the best results.

4. Mistletoe Cactus (Rhipsalis baccifera)

A fun twist on traditional mistletoe, the mistletoe cactus is a desert-inspired holiday plant that brings a simultaneously striking and playful festive touch, making one of our absolute favorite Christmas cactus alternatives.

This plant can grow anywhere between two to six feet long. 'It has long, thin green stems, and small white flowers that later blossoms into tiny berries that somewhat resemble mistletoe,' says horticulturist and owner of Splendid Landscape, Kaushikan Ganesan. With slender, cylindrical stems that lend it an elegant, architectural look.

The mistletoe cactus can be planted in a pot for a charming tabletop display or hung in a basket within an archway or doorway where its long stems can cascade beautifully, adding an enchanting touch to your holiday decor. Consider using this Napa Home & Garden hanging planter in gray – from Target – to provide a striking backdrop to the plant's naturally lighter hues.

To care for a mistletoe cactus, provide it with bright, indirect light and well-draining soil, such as this Miracle-Gro potting mix, a best seller at Walmart. Being a desert plant, it requires minimal watering – allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. It thrives in moderate to low humidity, making it well-suited for homes with drier air.

5. Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)

One of the best red houseplants, the Christmas kalanchoe is subtly festive, and with clusters of bright, small flowers, shades of red, pink, or white it can beautifully complement red-themed holiday accents. Its blooming period typically occurs in early spring – around February – which makes it a great Christmas gift rather than a contender for the best indoor flowering plant for your December decor. Still, its rich color and charming flowers bring festive cheer that transitions into the New Year.

As a hardy succulent, the Christmas kalanchoe thrives with minimal care. With the right attention, a kalanchoe can re-flower year after year, making it a reliable and long-lasting addition to your home.

To care for a kalanchoe, place it in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight and allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. These plants are quite drought-tolerant, which makes them ideal for those with busy schedules or less-than-perfect green thumbs.

6. Ruby Ball Cactus (Parodia schumanniana var. albispina)

Still obsessed with the idea of having a cactus as part of your holiday decor? We've got the plant for you. Known for its vibrant, spherical shape, the Ruby Ball cactus features a stunning ruby-red ball that is beautifully contrasted by its gentle yellow blooms.

The compact size of a ruby ball cactus makes it ideal for small spaces, shelves, or as a centerpiece in festive displays. With its beautiful red hue and unique shape, it's a perfect example of how a small, unassuming plant can add an element of drama and color to your space, making it an excellent choice for those looking for an unusual alternative to traditional holiday plants.

'Native to South America, the ruby ball cactus is a low-maintenance plant that thrives in bright light and well-draining soil,' explains Kaushikan Ganesan. While it doesn’t require frequent watering, it’s best to let the soil dry out completely between waterings. During the winter months, this cactus remains dormant, making it well-suited for holiday decorations that don’t require constant attention.

Whether you are drawn to Christmas cactus alternatives because they complement your Christmas color schemes, for the fun of switching up traditional Christmas decor ideas, or you are in the market for cold-tolerant houseplants, these unique plants are sure to add charm and personality to your home throughout the festive season and beyond.

As a full time working mom whose life revolves around gardening, plants and nature, I need my house to be styled at Christmas with the most elegant of festive foliage and plants. It's a non-negotiable.

I am always on the hunt for easy styling ideas and Christmas plant hacks. And I've just found one I need to share: waxed amaryllis bulbs. Why are they so good? They do not require any watering or soil to grow and bloom, simply the right light and temperature conditions. Amaryllis plants are simple to grow even when potted, but these bulbs are completely fuss free and so easy even a total plant novice would have success with them.

They are also perfect for creating seasonal, living Christmas wreaths for inside the home, and we have included a step-by-step guide to making one a bit further down.

How do waxed amaryllis bulbs work?

When a bulb is surrounded by wax, all the moisture, humidity and nutrients are held tightly within the bulb, allowing the plant to grow and flower as it would if potted up in soil.

The bulbs are so large and can store all the energy they need when coated in wax to produce multiple flowers for the holiday season. The colors of the wax are also highly decorative, my favourite being the elegant wax amaryllis bulb with white flowers from Amazon, because I love the green wax shade. All the bulbs also come with small metal stands, making it super easy to position them in a display.

They would work arranged in a cluster with moss and pine foliage to create an ever-changing festive tablescape, or can even be used in a living Christmas wreath.

As an added bonus, you can plant waxed amaryllis bulbs in the ground by simply peeling away the wax. They can be planted outdoors in the spring after the last frost. Be sure to plant them neck deep, with about one third of the bulb above soil level and about 12-15 inches apart.

How to make an amaryllis wreath using waxed bulbs

Tricia Hunt, plant expert and owner of Millstone Nursery, based in Germantown, Tennessee, has given us her expert insight for creating your own Christmas wreath using waxed amaryllis bulbs.

'For this project, I started with a simple grapevine wreath and before adding any other decorations I secured the waxed amaryllis bulbs at the base and neck of the stalk to the wreath using florist wire,' says Tricia. Floristry paddle wire from Amazon is ideal for this job.

'Once they are placed, the base foliage is up to you. I had fresh pine, dried lotus pods, a few ornaments and incense cedar laying around, but any real or dried picks will work just fine. I placed the fan tail willow in the back for a vertical element as well as an anchoring structure for the blooms as they grow. This is a great project for odds and ends of items you may already have but not in large quantities.'

'The wreath doesn’t need a lot of attention,' says Tricia. 'The waxed amaryllis does not need water and does well inside with a little light. Typically, it takes about four to six weeks for the amaryllis to bloom, so you must do a little planning ahead. If you choose to use fresh greenery, the stems will last longer if they are not near an air vent that may dry them out. Any berries would work for the picks or even as the wreath itself.

'Faux berries would probably be the better choice for a wreath in this instance, just because the plant takes weeks to bloom, and the berries might dry out before the flowers come,' advises Tricia.

If you feel inspired to create your own Christmas wreath or decorations this year, you will love our guide to the best scented foliage for Christmas decorations, to ensure you home smells fresh and festive for the whole holiday season.

Flowering cacti are popular indoor plants, and there are so many unusual and unexpected varieties to choose from. With their delicate and plentiful blooms in a surprising range of colors, they bring intriguing shapes, detail and personality into the home.

Easy to look after by following cactus care tips, and hugely individual, these curious desert beauties make striking indoor displays. Hailing from the arid and semi-arid regions of North and South America, they produce short lived but spectacular seasonal blooms that instantly demand attention. Set against the fleshy, spiny and sculptural main stems they are a cheery and fascinating talking point.

While the Christmas cactus is widely sold at this time of year for its kaleidoscope of bold, dramatic flowers, there are plenty of other, dare we say, even more appealing varieties to choose from.

1. Prickly Pear Cactus

Instantly recognised for its cartoon-like round but flattened stems, the prickly pear cactus is a real showstopper. Covered in super sharp spines or fine bristles it's certainly a plant to be respected but it does have a showier side.

‘The Prickly Pear Cactus - Opuntia monacantha 'Joseph's Coat' - produces vibrant blooms, typically in shades of yellow or orange, contrasting beautifully with its colorful, variegated pads,’ says plant expert Paris Lalicata. ‘The flowers are large, cup-shaped, and bloom during the spring and summer months. Each flower lasts for a day but can be replaced by successive blooms over a few weeks.’

A lover of full sun, this variety is happiest on a sunny south or west facing windowsill potted in well draining cactus compost, such as the Miracle-Gro cactus, palm and citrus potting mix from Walmart.

2. Peruvian Apple Cactus

The Peruvian Apple Cactus, or Cereus peruvianus, is a real diva. Its large white flowers are brushed with yellow and have a delicious fragrance, but you will have to be diligent if you want to spot them.

‘These flowers are nocturnal, only opening up at night, and typically bloom during the summer, lasting only until the early morning,’ says Paris. ‘Each bloom is ephemeral, making them a rare treat to witness. If you see signs of budding on the cactus, set your alarms at night to wake up so you don’t miss it.’

Like most cacti, this variety is sensitive to cold and detests frosts. Keep indoors in a south or west facing window where it can soak up the e the soil has dried out completely. ‘You’ll find yourself watering more often during the summer months,’ exclaims Paris. ‘Minimal fertilizing is also needed during its growing season in spring and summer.’

3. Mammillaria schiedeana

There’s something rather chic about this neatly rounded cactus and its star-like spiny rosettes. ‘Mammillaria schiedeana is an adorable little cactus native to Mexico that blooms throughout the winter, showing off small white or pink flowers in between its feathery-looking spines,’ says horticulturist Justin Hancock.

Easy-to-grow and easy-to-bloom, it simply requires bright light and watering only as and when the potting mix dries out. Fertilization in spring and summer helps encourage more blooms and faster growth. A balanced liquid feed like this Espoma organic indoor plant fertilizer from Walmart is an easy option.

Justin adds, ‘As it matures, this cactus forms offshoots, creating a mound about 4 inches tall, making it a perfect pick for a bright windowsill.’

4. Mammillaria zeilmanniana

Producing pinkish or pinkish-purple flowers throughout the year, this tiny plant deserves a sunny spot in every home.

‘In its native habitat it’s considered endangered, but happily it’s commonly grown in cultivation so you can enjoy this rare beauty in your home,’ says Justin. ‘Typically staying less than 6 inches tall, it’s a relatively small cactus, so you can enjoy it just about anywhere.’

Sensitive to over watering, it is well worth taking extra care over this beauty. If this - or any cactus starts turning brown - take time to investigate the cause and work out how it can be rectified. Like other cacti, Mammillaria zeilmanniana needs bright light and good drainage to thrive.

5. Scarlet Ball Cactus

Loving bright rather than ferociously hot conditions, this rounded cactus is known not only for its neat shape, but for having the longest lasting blooms of all cacti. While many cactus blooms only remain for a day, each flower from this plant will continue for up to three weeks.

‘It is nicknamed scarlet ball cactus for its fiery red-orange blooms that are relatively large, topping the plant with a crown of color in late winter and early spring,’ says Justin. ‘It forms a ball that tends to stay less than 6 inches across and is covered in attractive, silvery spines.’

One thing to note before buying these curvy cacti is that they are rather prone to mite infestations, so be sure to look closely and carefully before bring one home. If you have inadvertently brought these tiny insects into your home, don't worry there are plenty of ways to get rid of red spider mites.

6. Easter Lily Cactus

Bearing flowers that are often bigger than the plant itself, the Easter lily cactus is a real showstopper. ‘Botanically known as Echinopsis subdenudata, this cactus earned its common name because of its large, pure-white, fragrant flowers that open at night,’ explains Justin.

With a delicious, lemony scent these blooms will perfume a surprisingly large area, but they will only last for a day. Although this rounded cactus will flower three or four times each season, from late spring to the end of summer, it won’t produce its first bud until it is three years old.

Easy to look after, and producing more and more flowers as it matures, this cactus is becoming hugely popular and is widely found in stores, plant nurseries and online retailers.

7. Mammillaria scrippsiana

Neat, rounded and blue grey in color, this cactus has it all. Each globular stem reaches just 2.5 inches (6.3cm) high and has a fascinating symmetrical arrangement of bumps or tubercles, each bearing around eight to ten red, pink spines set in a star.

With a ring of delicate rose-pink blooms appearing in spring and summer, towards the top of the plant, it is a handsome addition to any potted indoor display. Sun loving, this beauty will cope with some part shade, it’s also pretty cold hardy withstanding temperatures dipping down to 44.6F (-7C).

Other varieties to look out for include pseudo scrippsiana with striped cream flowers and aurelianensis with its yellow blooms.

8. Sand dollar cactus

Slow growing and spineless, Astrophytum asterias is a captivating houseplant. A star cactus, its round, smooth shape is deeply ribbed and is dotted with curious bobbles of dense white fuzz, giving it real personality. Growing up to six inches high (15cm) and eight inches wide (20cm) it is perfect for potting up and displaying in a warm, sunny window and it's a great choice for a terrarium.

Blooms only appear after the plant is two years old, and then there are only one or two per season. However. the plants do become more prolific as they mature. Regular dozes of a balanced liquid fertilizer will also help with flowering.

As with most cactus, overwatering is this plant’s nemesis. Discover how to water a cactus, taking note of the ‘soak and dry’ technique and keep humidity levels low.

FAQs

Why does my cactus refuse to flower?

Cactus plants will not bloom until they are mature enough, and this can vary from two, three or more years. Having steadily evolved over hundreds of years, the plants have become sensitive to the length of daylight hours - known as photoperiodism - and time opening their flowers according to the season and time of day.

Some varieties only bloom during the night and these can last a day at most, so it's well worth checking them regularly. Heat is a vital part of this too, and some cactus varieties are more susceptible to fluctuating temperatures than others, so avoid draughty spots within your home.

Over and under watering can lead to plant health problems, which will ultimately affect the number of blooms produced or the complete loss of bud formation. High humidity can also prove an issue, encouraging damaging fungal infections and viruses to take hold.

Tempted to expand your cactus collection, then its worth knowing how to grow cactus from cuttings, so you can enjoy more plants for free. Of course, you will also need to discover the best way to repot a cactus for healthy plants and a painfree experience.

Repotting your houseplants is an essential care task to keep them happy. Moving them into a larger home gives the roots more room to grow and provides your plants with a boost of fresh nutrients.

However, it can be easy to forget to repot your plants - often a common indoor plant mistake which leaves houseplants with yellowing foliage and stunted growth. This often leads to plants becoming pot-bound, or root-bound, which refers to the plant's roots wrapping around each other multiple times until they become hard and cause the plant to become trapped in its pot.

While it's important to repot houseplants as they get too big for their containers, different plants will cope better with different growing conditions. This means there are a range of houseplants that enjoy being pot-bound for some time longer than others. If you're seeking these plants for their low-maintenance nature, but aren't sure where to get started, we have you covered. Here are a range of houseplants that don't need repotting often.

8 houseplants that like being pot-bound

It's important to note these houseplants can cope well with being pot-bound for some time, but they won't necessarily remain happy in the same sized pot forever. Always watch out for things like roots emerging from drainage holes and yellowing foliage as signs your plant needs a bigger home. Nevertheless, the houseplants compiled here enjoy being somewhat pot-bound and won't need regular repotting.

1. Spider plant

This has to be one of the easiest indoor plants you can grow at home, needing very little attention and coping well with neglect. You can get away with not repotting your spider plant for a couple of years at a time.

'Spider plants like to be root-bound and will protest when they are potted into too big of a container by dying back,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

When spider plants live in a pot too-large, they may suffer from houseplant root rot as the potting soil takes longer to dry out. Even when living in a smaller pot, these plants will produce plenty of baby plants so you can easily propagate spider plants from cuttings.

'Repot when roots are coming out of the drainage holes and water rushes through the pot quickly,' Julie advises.

When your spider plant starts turning yellow, it's time to inspect the roots and see if it needs to be placed in a bigger pot.

2. African violet

It might surprise you that even some indoor flowering plants can cope with being pot-bound. African violets are some of the hardier flowering houseplants you can grow.

'African violets like to be snug in their pots,' notes Lisa Eldred Steinkopf from the Houseplant Guru. 'Yet, because they drop their lower leaves, they will form long stems,' she adds.

When your African violets start to shed their leaves, or your African violets start drooping, and you notice the leggy growth Lisa describes, consider repotting your African violets.

'Then they need to be re-potted, burying those stems under the potting media, where they will grow new roots,' explains Lisa. 'Most standard African violets need only a 4-inch pot,' she adds.

Generally speaking, African violets will stay happy in their current pots for a year. If they've stopped flowering, this can also be an indication of their need for a larger container.

3. Jade plant

While there are many fast-growing succulents, jade plants are better choices for those looking for a slow-grower. Growing at a rate of only two inches per year, it's no surprise you don't need to repot jade plants often.

'Like many succulents, jade prefers to be root-bound. Repotting too soon will lead to too much wet soil and root rot,' notes Julie. 'Repot when water rushes through the pot when you water and the soil dries out quickly between watering,' she adds.

Potting mix drying out quickly is a common sign your plant is ready for repotting. This is because when a plant becomes too pot-bound, their roots are unable to absorb enough water and nutrients.

However, jade plants don't need watering too regularly and can be left to mostly dry between watering. You can get away with only repotting your jade plant every three to four years.

4. Alocasia

Another popular low-maintenance indoor plant, and one that also does well as an indoor low-light plant, alocasias often do best when growing in tighter conditions.

'Though these are tropical indoor plants. alocasias grow better on the root-bound side,' notes Julie.

In fact, alocasias may droop when repotted into a container too-large, due to issues like root rot and shock. Being slightly pot-bound often indicates a healthy root system for these plants.

You only need to repot alocasias every 18 months on average. 'Repot when watering doesn’t seem to moisten the soil sufficiently,' says Julie.

Shop houseplant repotting essentials

5. Hoya

If you're after a plant that offers beautiful indoor blooms and doesn't need too much attention, it's worth considering hoyas. These unique plants are native to southeast Asia, Japan and Taiwan, and can live in the same pot for as long as five years.

'Hoyas like to be snug in their pots. They often wait until their roots fill the pot to initiate flowering,' explains Lisa.

So, if your hoya isn't flowering, it might just be because it isn't mature enough yet or you've repotted it too soon. 'If they're up-potted too frequently they may not flower well,' says Lisa.

It's best to wait until your hoya's roots are poking out or the soil isn't absorbing water well to repot your plant.

6. Snake plant

This is a classic among the best indoor plants and one many choose as a bedroom plant for its air-purifying qualities. Caring for a snake plant is incredibly easy, including the lack of repotting it needs.

'Though not a true succulent, snake plant is much like a succulent in that putting this plant into too much wet soil will quickly lead to root rot, so it is best to let the plant remain root-bound until it becomes top-heavy and water rushes quickly through the soil, leaving the plant lacking water,' explains Julie.

Although, it is important to repot your snake plant as needed. 'Snake plants do have large rhizomatous roots. If in full sun and healthy the plant will break a pot with its roots,' warns Lisa. 'Usually, snake plants aren’t given enough sun to do this, as they are touted as low-light plants,' she adds.

7. Christmas cactus

Both Christmas cactus and Thanksgiving cactus can cope well with not being repotted often. These plants are very similar, but can be differentiated by the shape of their leaves and time of year they flower, indicated by their names.

'If repotted too often, these cacti may not flower well. They will put energy into filling the pot with roots before it uses its energy to flower,' explains Lisa.

If you're looking to make a Christmas cactus bloom, it's worth ensuring it has grown large enough and developed a robust root system first, as Lisa indicates.

Aim to repot your Christmas cactus, or Thanksgiving cactus, every couple of years to keep it happy and healthy.

8. Kalanchoe

Kalanchoes are popular as indoor plants that flower all year round, with blooms in colors such as pink, white and orange. As a succulent, these plants tend to grow slowly and will last in a pot-bound situation for some time.

'This succulent plant prefers to remain on the root-bound side and is highly susceptible to root rot if you fail to let it remain root-bound,' says Julie. 'You want the soil to dry out between watering, which is impossible to do if the plant is in too big of a pot,' she adds.

It can be hard to know how and when to water houseplants, but the general rule with succulents is less is more. Keeping your kalanchoe in a smaller pot can help keep it at a happy moisture level and prevent it becoming oversaturated.

Aim to repot your kalanchoe every couple of years, making sure to wait until after it has finished blooming.

FAQs

How do you remove a pot-bound plant from its pot?

If your houseplant is pot-bound, you might struggle to remove it from its pot when you attempt to repot it. Some things that can help you include gently squeezing its nursery pot to loosen it and running a knife around the edge of the pot. You can also try gently twisting the plant. If you're willing to sacrifice its plastic pot, you can also use scissors to cut the pot open.

Can I cut houseplant roots?

Yes, you can cut and prune houseplant roots. Doing so can actually improve your plant's health if it has damaged roots. Likewise, you might need to cut away some roots if your plant has become root-bound. Using sharp essential gardening tools like pruning shears or scissors, simply cut away the roots, ensuring not to prune more than a third of the plant at a time - doing so can leave your plant in shock and impact its future growth.

If you're new to owning houseplants or simply want some that don't need a lot of maintaining, try growing some of these plants. When you do get around to repotting your houseplants, it's better to do so in early spring before active growth kicks in. There are also lots of houseplants that can cope with other limiting growing conditions, such as the best cold-tolerant houseplants which will do well in the chillier spots of your home.

Beautiful and functional, prickly pears are resilient cacti that are perfect if you are looking for low-maintenance and drought-tolerant plants. You might think that these native succulents are better suited to wild, desert landscapes, yet prickly pears can make for useful evergreen plants, whether used in backyard borders or containers.

Prickly pears, classified as Opuntia, are well-suited to dry and arid yards. Found growing across much of the southwestern United States and Mexico, these tough cacti have adapted to thrive in challenging environments, requiring little care or attention. What's more, in the right conditions, they will flower and fruit, producing colorful blooms during spring and summer.

So, if you are considering landscaping with succulents and cacti or looking for some ground cover inspiration for your backyard, prickly pears should be a consideration. Here, one garden expert shares all you need to know to successfully grow these native cacti.

How to grow prickly pears

Often considered some of the best desert plants, prickly pears are remarkably resilient and versatile. Tolerating freezing winters and scorching summers, these cacti are a marvel of the natural world, growing up to 20 feet in the right conditions.

Things to consider when growing prickly pears

'Prickly pears are remarkably tough,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage. 'They can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 to US hardiness zone 9, growing as far north as Wyoming and Nebraska, and as far south as Texas and Arizona.'

Native to dry, arid environments, prickly pears can be grown in both hot and cold regions (nights in the desert can be extremely cold), proving to be one of the most resilient drought-tolerant plants. They can survive in these regions because of common cacti adaptations, whereby water is stored in thick stems, allowing the plant to go for long periods relying only on water reserves.

'As is common with cacti, prickly pears can grow very slowly,' Katie adds, 'especially if started by seed. It can take three to five years after germination to mature enough to produce blooms, so if you are in a hurry, buying live plants is a quicker option.' Prickly pear plants are available to order online from Walmart.

So, whether you are in a hot, sunny region or a cool, dry area, prickly pears can make ideal evergreen ground cover plants that will prove to be a tough addition to any yard.

Prickly pear grow guide

• Soil: Prickly pears can grow well in poor soils, 'thriving in dry, arid conditions,' Katie says. 'They are perfect for sandy or rocky soils and even do well in coastal areas.' Prickly pears will quickly struggle and fail if planted in waterlogged, clay-based soils. If you want to give your cacti the best chance of success, it is a good idea to incorporate some horticultural grit or cacti soil, available from Walmart, which will help to improve drainage in your pots or yard.
• Light: Like all cacti, prickly pears need a full sun position in borders and beds. 'Prickly pears need to be planted in full sun to thrive,' Katie adds, 'growing best when they receive at least 8 hours of direct sunlight.'
• Watering: As drought-tolerant plants, 'prickly pears require very little water,' Katie adds. 'They are often used in desert climates and xeriscape landscapes. Rainwater is often enough for cacti to survive but if conditions are extremely dry, watering can be done just to moisten the soil at the base of the plant. Importantly, do not overwater, as constantly damp soil can lead to rotting.'
• Fertilizing: Prickly pear plants rarely require feeding. In their native habitat, they can survive in nutrient-poor soils without any mulch or supplementary fertilizing. However, if you are growing in pots, it can be a good idea to apply fertilizer, as the plant can quickly use up nutrients in container soil. Use an organic cactus and succulent fertilizer, available from Amazon.
• Pruning: 'Pruning a prickly pear isn’t really necessary,' Katie says. 'The only time pruning needs to be done is to help tame them or keep their shape. I would suggest pruning them in early spring or in fall before the temperatures drop. Always use gloves to avoid the spines and use a sharp knife to remove the paddles.'

FAQs

Are all prickly pears edible?

Indigenous American peoples have harvested cacti for centuries, utilizing them as a food source. Most prickly pear species are edible, but it is always best to check online which variety you are growing and the best time to harvest. Cacti pads are best harvested and eaten when young, and the fruits, named 'tunas' will vary in sweetness depending on the species you grow.

Why is my prickly pear not flowering?

Prickly pears can take several years before they are mature enough to flower and produce fruit, so often patience is required when growing these cacti. If your plants are mature but they are not blooming, it might be because they are in the wrong position. Remember that prickly pears require plenty of sunshine and dry soil to thrive. They do not tend to require fertilizer to flower, so hold off feeding your plants unless you garden in a particularly free-draining, nutrient-poor soil.

How do you harvest the prickly pear fruits?

Harvest prickly pears in late summer, when the berry-like fruits (tunas) have turned deep pink in color. Darker colors indicate that the fruits are sweet and ready to pick. Using kitchen tongs is a good idea to gently loosen and remove the fruits, avoiding any damage from the sharp spines, and placing the fruits carefully in a basket.

As with most cacti, prickly pears are typically covered in small hair-like spines, that can cause significant damage, so always approach with caution when planted in your yard.

If you are gardening with children or you have pets, consider growing prickly pears over a garden wall or terrace, where they are impossible to reach, or perhaps opt for a spineless variety, such as Opuntia ellisiana, which is available to order from Amazon.

Taking a closer look at your plant, you might realise you have a Christmas cactus not a prickly pear.

Knowing how to propagate agaves is a satisfying and simple skill to learn. Loved for their sculptural shapes and beautiful green hues, as well as for their easy care requirements, these succulents top the popularity stakes both in the garden and as low-maintenance houseplants.

Among the best desert plants, there are more than 200 species of agave. They vary in size, but luckily propagating them is similar for most types. This is due to the pups, which grow out from the base of the mature plants, or sometimes on a stalk. The former are called offsets, while the latter are known as bulbil, but both are clones of the mother plant and are generally referred to as pups or offsets.

Thankfully, increasing the number of agaves in your yard is easy to do yourself, if you follow the advice from our gardening experts.

How to propagate agaves

Agaves can be grown from seed. However, removing the pups and replanting them is the simplest and most widely used method to propagate agaves.

'Most but not all agaves form offsets, primarily earlier in their lives before they have an agave 'menopause' and stop; eventually blooming and dying in maturity,' explains Jeff Moore, founder, Solana Succulents and co-author with horticulturalist Jeremy Spath of Agaves in Habitat & Cultivation.

'There are a minority of agaves that rarely if ever form offsets, so must be grown from seed. These are usually more rare in cultivation, not necessarily because they are difficult to grow, but because it is a time-consuming job to collect seed and grow the seedlings.'

1. Propagate when it's warm

Plants respond to nature's cycles and seasons and agaves are no different. Despite being succulents accustomed to arid conditions, the timing of your agave propagation may impact its outcome, according to Jack Kelly, horticulturalist, University of Arizona College of Agriculture & Life Sciences

'Taking cuttings when temperatures at night are conducive to rooting and root development is the key to success,' says Jack. 'As a rule, cuttings taken when nighttime temperatures are 60°F (16°C) and above will root successfully.'

'If you're propagating agave outdoors, the weather becomes a big factor,' says Greg Starr, owner, Starr Nursery. 'In the desert southwest the ideal time is generally in the late summer and early fall, with cooler daytime temperatures, warm nights, and higher humidity due to summer monsoons.

'Starting offsets or bulbils can be done if the soil temperature is warm enough, probably above 65-70ºF range. I usually wait until nighttime temperatures are in the high 60s to mid-70s and daytime temperatures are under 100ºF.

'I'll pull them during spring, summer, and fall and start them outdoors in pots with my regular cactus mix. The soil should be kept slightly moist but not soggy wet.'

'In California, you can start agave offsets any time of the year, but if you live in a winter cold climate, you would need a greenhouse October-April,' says Jeff Moore.

'Most agaves can be grown outdoors year-round in most of California and the US southwest. Some cold-hardy varieties will grow across the gulf states, as well as up into Oregon and Washington. But most agaves are from Mexico, so don't like freezing or snowy winters–they do best in zones 8, 9 and 10. However, there are exceptions.'

2. Wear gloves and long sleeves

Who hasn't been jabbed by a prickly cactus or spiky succulent? They may look beautiful, but it's important to protect yourself properly when taking cuttings from agaves.

'When working with agaves and other spiny plants, care must be taken to avoid being injured while handling the plants,' says Jack Kelly. 'Always wear gloves or use tongs and avoid contact with the plants.'

3. Choose offsets from healthy plants

Like any form of propagation, diseases can be easily spread amongst plants. Checking the mother agave before you take any offsets or pups will prevent potentially spreading disease or problems to other parts of your yard.

'Always take cuttings from healthy plants,' says Jack Kelly. 'Do not propagate cuttings that are badly blemished, bruised, diseased, shrivelled, rotted or otherwise not clean and healthy.'

4. Carefully access the pups

Taking cuttings from most agave species is easy, as the "mother" plant pushes out offsets or "pups" on a stem from its base, or on a stalk. These offsets or bulbils look like mini versions of the mature agave and can be cut or twisted off. Although, they may be buried in soil, or wedged beneath the mature plant, so you may need scrape the soil away or dislodge the "mother" agave.

'If your agave is in a pot, the best way to detach the offsets is to lift the agave out of its pot, so you can pull them off easier from below,' says Jeff Moore. 'You typically will get a rosette, ideally at least a few inches across, attached by an umbilical stolon to the parent plant. You can cut or pull off the stolon, and hopefully there will be some nascent new roots beginning around the pup.'

'To split off pups from agaves in the ground, take a shovel and gently lift up the side of the mother plant that has the pup,' says Sam Niemann, founder, Bleume. 'Once I have lifted up the mother plant to expose the pup, I will gently twist off the pup.

'After the pup is removed from the mother plant, I gently reset the mother plant making sure that the roots are re-covered in soil.'

5. Keep some of the stem on the pup

Agave pups will form new roots, however if you don't see any, experts suggest leaving a little of the stem or stolon to allow this to happen.

'Always leave a small portion of the stem that connected the offset to its parent on the base of the offset,' says Jack Kelly. 'It is in this area where new roots will develop. If you cut too close to the base of the offset, the roots will not form.

'Whether an outdoor agave is in the yard or an indoor plant, when separating an agave pup, cut the attached rhizome just below the baby plant’s root system so that the pup retains its roots,' says Lindsay Sisti, author, The Ultimate Guide to Houseplant Propagation.

'Depending on the plant, your cut may be right near the base of the mother plant, or closer to halfway along the rhizome. No matter how long your pup's rhizome ends up being, if it has a root system of its own, with proper care, it will hit the ground running (growing) once you plant it.

'These offsets with roots may appear broken when you first separate them, but they are actually whole. Give them a little love and they will thrive independently.'

6. Plant the offset in cactus/succulent potting mix

Some gardeners allow the pup stems to dry out before planting them, while others don't. Generally, if your pup has roots attached it doesn't need to be left to dry.

'Assuming you are planting your pups straight away into some dry soil, you don't need to dry them out first,' says Jeff Moore. 'Dipping them in rooting hormone isn't necessary either, but it might help.

'Just plant them in a pot of cactus/succulent mix, which should contain a generous amount of pumice and/or perlite.

'Wait a few days before watering, then water again when dry. The pups might shrivel for a few weeks until they begin to soak up water.'

'Occasionally, the agave pup will come with roots attached. but often they will have no roots. So I let the cut ends callous over for a few days in a dry, shaded spot such as a garage,' says Sam Niemann.

'Then once the cut ends are calloused over, I set the cuttings in moist cactus and succulent potting mix making sure the cut end is in the soil and the cutting stands up. From that point on, the cuttings can be cared for like any other succulent.'

7. Water your agave pups weekly

'Your watering schedule in warm weather should be once to twice a week, providing that the soil has dried out between waterings,' says Jeff.

'All agaves love the sun, so slowly expose the new pups to more and more sun until you can locate them to the sunniest place available. If indoors, they need to be on a window ledge, almost touching the glass.'

Shop agave propagating essentials

Plant propagation is an easy and free way to grow your plant collection. Why not create a small table display with your cuttings? Agave plants look particularly effective when grown in colorful ceramic pots, which is a surefire way to add impact to your outside dining space.

Without a doubt, a large decorative pot or two will add much-needed curb appeal and elegant visual interest to your home. Whether your yard is spacious or compact, there’s always room to incorporate these eye-catching pieces – the key is knowing how to style them and what to plant inside.

Large pots are extremely versatile, capable of holding everything from tall ornamental grasses to vibrant flowers or fruit trees, making them the perfect addition to your front yard landscaping. Matching pots can frame a doorway, while a bold, oversized piece can create a dramatic centerpiece. But how do you know where to start when selecting and styling these garden accessories?

To guide you through the process, we’ve gathered some creative ideas and expert tips for styling large, decorative pots in your front yard.

How to style with large, decorative pots

Before you purchase a new decorative pot or container, take a moment to consider the space you’re working with. Think about the size and layout of your front yard, and how the pots will fit into the existing landscape.

If you have a small front yard, choosing the right size and style of pot is essential to avoid overwhelming the space – opt for sleek, compact designs that enhance your yard without crowding it. On the other hand, if you have a spacious front yard, don't be afraid to go big with oversized pots or groupings that create impactful focal point.

1. Think about planting

Decorative pots can make a striking statement on their own, but adding greenery and flowers can step up their impact. So, how do you go about styling your pots with the perfect plants?

‘A good guide for styling large decorative pots would be to select "thriller, filler, and spiller" plants,’ explains Kassi Kuppinger from Bath Garden Center:

• The thriller plant is usually a tall and striking plant that adds height and attracts attention. Tall grasses or perennial/annual flowers that stand tall are often used as this centerpiece. Examples include spiky Dracaena, tall ornamental grasses like miscanthus or fountain Grass, and bold flowering plants like canna lilies or dahlias.
• The filler plants are usually shorter, more bushy flowering plants that add color and texture. Any upright-growing plant that maintains a relatively short and compact form is great for this. Examples include petunias, marigolds, geraniums, and Calibrachoa (Million Bells), which are known for their bright blooms and compact growth.
• Lastly, spiller plants are generally plants with a trailing/vining growth habit that spills over the edges of the pot. Sometimes, these are flowering plants, but a very common spiller plant is sweet potato vines. These plants add a lot of dimension and make your pots look like they are overflowing with plant life. Other examples include creeping Jenny, ivy, and trailing varieties of lobelia or bacopa.

2. Create a Focal Point with Statement Pots

‘It's useful to think of large pots as architectural features themselves; they can set off features like pillars or windows, and they're great for separating spaces like walking paths from the rest of the yard,’ says Rafi Friedman, President of Coastal Luxury Outdoors. ‘With this in mind, placement is key, and you should strive to choose pots whose style and color match that of your home.’

When selecting pots for focal points, consider their design impact. Bold colors, unique shapes, or intricate patterns can draw the eye and create a visual anchor in your yard. For example, a particularly tall pot with a minimalist design can enhance the clean lines of a contemporary home.

It's also important to think about the scale of your pots relative to their surroundings. Large pots should complement, rather than overwhelm, the existing architecture and landscaping. To maintain balance, pair oversized pots with similarly substantial plants, such as small trees or tall grasses, that can hold their own against the pot’s size and design.

‘If you're going to have large pots directly adjacent to each other, you're usually better off using a larger pot or raised bed in that spot,’ adds Rafi. ‘A good guideline is to have at least one pot width of space between pots. This spacing not only prevents the area from feeling crowded but also allows each pot to shine individually.’

3. Choose to plant Ornamental Trees or Fruit Trees

‘Ornamental trees like palms or compact fruit trees are ideal choices for large decorative pots,’ says Rafi Friedman. ‘They'll fill out the space nicely, and the ability to move them around will allow you to produce more fruit if that's something you're interested in.’ They can also be used to flank entryways, line pathways, or serve as natural screens that provide privacy in your front yard.

When styling large pots with ornamental trees, Michael Clarke, Founder of Yardwork, recommends applying Kassi Kuppinger’s three-part approach: ‘Use a focal point tree as the central leader (a thriller), several smaller, bushier plants (fillers), and trailing plants (spillers) to soften the edges.'

‘If I have a taller, narrower pot, I use taller, more narrow trees and shrubs, such as Italian Cypress,’ Michael continues. ‘For larger, shorter pots, I opt for wider and shorter trees, like Japanese Maple.’

4. Frame Your Front Door or Garden Path with Matching Pots

Framing your front door with matching planters, or placing identical pots on either side of your garden path, is a simple way to step up your front yard’s curb appeal. By placing identical pots on either side of your entryway or along a walkway, you can establish a sense of symmetry and balance that naturally draws the eye and guides visitors toward your home.

The key to getting this look right is consistency. Choose large decorative pots that complement the architectural style of your home and pair them with plants that add height and structure. Tall, elegant topiaries or neatly trimmed boxwoods work beautifully for this.

If you prefer a sleek, contemporary design, opt for large pedestal planters and neat architectural plants. For a more rustic approach, go with giant weathered stone pots and fragrant herbs.

5. Cluster pots of different sizes together

Grouping large decorative pots in clusters is an effective way to add height, depth, and visual interest to your front yard. Simply combine pots of varying sizes and shapes to create dynamic arrangements that break up flat areas of landscaping.

‘If you're going to cluster several pots in an area, varying their heights is key,’ says Rafi Friedman. ‘Generally, you'll want lower pots in the front and higher pots in the back.’ This tiered effect adds layers and dimension, making the plants on display feel rich and fuller.

Don’t shy away from clustering together pots of different shapes and textures. For instance, round pots can soften the lines of more angular or geometric styles, and textured surfaces can add depth when juxtaposed with smoother finishes. A little variety will prevent your front yard arrangement from feeling too uniform.

6. Style large pots With Succulents and Cacti

Styling large pots with succulents and cacti is a fantastic way to create a striking, low-maintenance front yard. These resilient plants bring unique textures, shapes, and a touch of 'desert chic' to outdoor spaces. They also thrive in large pots, where their sculptural forms can be showcased to full effect.

Succulents and cacti grow particularly well in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 and their ability to store water makes them exceptionally resilient in dry conditions. You can mix and match different varieties until you find a planting scheme that resonates with you, but as a rule of thumb, tall, spiky cacti pair beautifully with rosette-shaped succulents.

To take your front yard scheme to the next level, consider adding some elegant front yard lighting to highlight your beautiful new pots and create a cozy, welcoming glow after sunset.

If you live in an arid climate and are wondering how to introduce landscaping with succulents and cacti ideas into your yard as a more appropriate form of planting, the good news is this is one of the most low-maintenance designs you can choose - and it looks super stylish.

Creating a garden mainly planted with succulents and cacti also ticks the sustainable landscaping box, especially if you choose native plants that are drought tolerant, and source local landscaping materials to accessorize the design. By choosing plants that naturally occur together in hot, dry regions you can also be confident they will look right together and will flourish in your climate.

We have gathered inspiration for your backyard landscaping ideas with advice and guidance on how to work succulents and cacti into your garden design.

8 ways to landscape with succulents and cacti

Succulents and cacti can be used in a variety of beautiful ways to transform your landscape. These versatile plants can be used in more contemporary symmetrical designs or left to grow informally as part of your garden design.

'There are countless different shapes and sizes to play with when choosing succulents, from tall, columnar cacti to those that are only a few inches in height,' says horticulturalist Noelle Johnson, author of Dry Climate Gardening, available from Amazon. 'Columnar cacti can be placed in similar locations as trees to serve as a central focal point or interspersed throughout the garden to create multiple vertical visual statements.'

Medium-sized succulents such as agave make an excellent filler for bare areas as part of your desert landscaping ideas, while the prickly pear cacti with their distinctive paddle-shaped stems add a welcome twist on texture in the garden, adds Noelle. Meanwhile low-growing succulents like golden barrel cacti can be planted in groups and used as groundcovers.

1. Use scale and proportion in your design

When thinking of succulents and cacti you probably envisage small plants on a windowsill. But take the best type of succulents outdoors and these beauties will transform your landscaping.

Add a majestic variety of agave or yucca to your garden planting and it can be more beautifully sculptural than, say, a large evergreen shrub or small ornamental tree. Meanwhile smaller types like echeveria and sedum can add lovely textured detail to rock gardens and living wall displays.

'Scale and proportion have to do with the size of plants and structures in the landscape as they relate to one another and to the whole,' says horticulturalist and succulents expert Debra Lee Baldwin, author of Designing with Succulents, available here from Amazon. 'A landscape with properly proportioned elements feels inviting. Correct scale and proportion can be as simple as placing small plants in small spaces and big plants in large spaces.'

2. Choose native varieties of cacti and succulents

Make restoring native plant habitats a key part of any new landscaping project. This means choosing plants that occur naturally in a region in which they evolved. By creating a native plant garden to preserve biodiversity your yard becomes part of a collective effort to sustain the landscape for wildlife.

A favorite native plant for landscaping is the prickly pear, which is one of the best desert plants. 'Our coast prickly pear is native to Southern California and Baja California, where it grows in coastal sage scrub and our maritime chaparral,' says Dr Ari Novy, president and CEO of the San Diego Botanic Garden. 'The plant plays a key role in local wildlife support.'

These plants have adapted to the dry, hot climate by storing water in their stems. 'Sometimes called the sprawling prickly pear, this cactus has short stems and a habit of growing close to the ground,' says Ari. 'The leafless stems store water to carry it through drought. The red-tinged yellow flowers bloom April through June, but the plant is beautiful all year round.'

Definitely one to include in your drought-tolerant planting ideas.

3. Repeat plant two or three varieties

A key principle of landscaping design is repeating plants of the same flower or foliage color and texture. This repetition draws the eye smoothly through the garden. The same is true when you are landscaping with succulents and cacti.

'Perhaps more than any other plants, succulents – because their leaf shapes are distinctly pointed, oval, or cylindrical – offer opportunities for crisply defined repetitions of form,' says Debra Lee Baldwin. 'Repetition is essential for unifying a landscape. Large agaves, in particular, illustrate this: just three of them, all the same and strategically placed, will lend continuity to a garden regardless of its other components.'

Repetition is not always multiples of the same plant, Debra points out. There are subtler ways to achieve it, such as with patterns, textures, and silhouettes. For example, a yucca planted near an agave shares the same spiky shape so adds the feeling of carrying on the design.

4. Introduce color to enhance your planting design

Plants with colorful leaves and flowers add standout to your dry garden landscaping with succulents and cacti. Succulents have foliage in a wide range of colors (like blue finger succulent) and pretty flowers, while some varieties of cacti have stunning blooms too.

'Grown en masse, succulents with colorful foliage make an unforgettable display,' says Debra Lee Baldwin. 'Solo, they serve as the centerpiece of a potted arrangement or as garden focal points. And when a colorful succulent is juxtaposed with other boldly-hued plants or objects, the contrast is as dramatic as it is delightful.'

Horticulturalist Jac Semmler, author of Super Bloom, available at Amazon, is a big fan of using sedum in dry gardens. 'Their leaves vary in shades of blue, green, gray, purple and even gold,' she says. 'Depending on the cultivar, stems of various lengths stretch up to form a domed cluster of flowers. Sedums are a wondrous combination of resilience and beauty, with flowers that attract pollinators.'

For landscaping purposes sedums can be divided into evergreen ground cover varieties and taller stemmed herbaceous perennials with large flowers.

5. Mix in boulders and rocks with your planting

Interspersing planting with boulders, crushed stones, and pebbles will add interest to your landscaping with succulents and cacti. It means your design will shift away from looking flat and desert-like towards a more interesting terrain.

'Boulders are a popular element for dry climate garden design,' says Noelle Johnson. 'They serve as a great visual anchor for plants. Pair a boulder next to a plant, and it looks better due to the mixture of heights and differences in texture. It's a great way to add height in a relatively flat landscape.'

When choosing boulders and rocks for your garden, the size of each one should be in scale with the size of your space, says Noelle. For example, if you have a smaller garden, select a boulder that is perhaps two feet in width and 16 inches tall. Larger landscapes will need larger rocks. 'To create a more natural appearance, once you have your boulder in the desired position, bury the bottom one-third,' she suggests.

Source locally when choosing landscaping ideas with rocks as these will blend in with the terrain. Whether you are shovelling pea gravel or craning in a huge statement boulder it will be worth the effort when you see what it brings to your landscaping.

6. Create bold and dramatic silhouettes

A simple white wall or plain fence can be transformed into a strong design feature with a display of tall, columnar cacti or shapely succulents such as aloe vera or Aeonium arboreum.

'One design element often overlooked in the garden is the shadows that plants can reflect, adding another layer of interest,' says Noelle Johnson. 'Not surprisingly, the curved and spiky shapes of succulents and cacti create nice shadows on vertical surfaces when the sun shines on them. A bare wall can be transformed by placing plants when oriented in an east- or west-facing direction.'

If you want an instant fix grow tall succulents or cacti in large pots as part of your summer container planting ideas to create a statement feature and add more depth to your space.

7. Make gravel your go-to landscaping material

Gravel is the number one choice of landscaping material if you live in a dry climate and is the super star when it comes to xeriscaping. Cheap to buy, easy to spread and widely available, it’s a practical material that looks good and is versatile too, so make it integral to your landscaping with succulents and cacti.

You can use small pockets of gravel as mini beds for cacti or succulents in modern geometric designs combined with pavers, or top dress flowerbeds with it as part of a much bigger landscaping project. You can also use gravel to make pathways through your planting.

The best type of gravel for landscaping is pea gravel, which tends to be a favorite tool of garden designers as the finish looks so professional. The small smooth and rounded stones come in a choice of natural colors, including cool shades of gray and crisp white, as well as warm golden and tan tones.

8. Plant up an interesting container display

If you don't have a huge yard you can still tap into the landscaping with succulents and cacti trend by using potted plants on roof garden patios, balconies, and decks. You can also plant them in vertical garden ideas and green roofs, as well as hanging terrariums.

The other good news is that these are low-maintenance container gardening ideas and will thrive for a few years before you need to replenish the soil or shift your plants into a larger pot. If you're planning on quite a few containers co-ordinate one or more design elements by grouping together complementary plants, materials or colors.

'Containers can transform an urban balcony into an inviting, easy-care garden space,' says Debra Lee Baldwin. 'Succulents need little pruning or deadheading, grow slowly when their roots are confined, and come in varieties suited to any container and amount of sun or lack thereof. And where no hose is handy, plants with minimal water needs are ideal, especially when drainage is problematic.'

Succulents lend themselves to vertical gardens, says Debra, because the plants are shallow rooted, stay compact, survive even if the growing medium dries out, and come in colors useful for creating patterns and designs.

FAQs

Can cactus and succulents be planted together?

Yes, cactus and succulents can be planted together as part of your landscaping design. Both like sunny, dry, well-drained conditions and thrive in high temperatures. Even if you want to put them together in a container they will be happy with the arrangement and it will look really effective too. The main consideration when planting cactus and succulents together is to group plants according to their water requirements.

When it comes to watering, cacti tend to need less water than succulents, but larger plant specimens will generally need more hydration than smaller ones. If you love the idea of landscaping with succulents and cacti you can find out more here about drought-tolerant landscaping ideas and how to design a drought-tolerant yard that's sustainable, looks beautiful, and also reduces your water usage.

If you're a fan of more unique houseplants, there's no doubt you'll own a few cacti. 

One of the best indoor plants, there are so many wonderful varieties of cacti, all of which can grow into truly unusual shapes; helping to enhance your home with a more characterful natural accent.  

While it's important to research your specific type of cactus to ensure it is properly cared for, there are a few easy rules that can be followed for most cacti varieties.

How to care for a cactus

Although the majority of cacti are native to North and South American deserts, cacti can be found around the world in warm and dry environments. They are now one of the most popular houseplants to have in the home, loved for their interesting appearance and colorful blooms.

Learn from the experts on how best to keep this prickly plant in pristine condition.

1. Provide lots of sunlight

It goes without saying that cactus plants need lots of sunlight. They are often native to deserts where they are exposed to the sun for the whole day, so it's important to provide your houseplant with plenty of bright, natural light.

'Cacti prefer direct sunlight, eight or more hours of direct sunlight daily is optimal. The more light your cactus gets, the more it will photosynthesize. This will boost its growth and keep it healthy and more resilient to diseases and pests,' says Vladan Nikolic, houseplant expert and founder of Mr Houseplant. 

You might notice your cactus start to grow unruly towards the light if it is not receiving enough light in its current position. The color of your cactus may also start to fade if it doesn't have sufficient light.

A sunny windowsill, such as south-facing window, is the ideal home for your cactus to ensure it receives plenty of exposure to sunlight throughout the day.

However, if you notice your cactus turning brown, this may be because it's receiving too much sunlight – we explore other factors in our dedicated feature.

2. Water well in warm weather

Knowing how to water houseplants is an art that takes some time to master, and overwatering is often one of the most common indoor mistakes houseplant owners make, especially with plants like cacti.

'Watering is key, but hold off on the daily downpour. They're desert dwellers, they thrive on occasional deep soakings, then likes to dry out completely before its next drink,' says plant expert and CEO of Tree Menders, Evan Torchio.

Choosing to soak your plant is a good way to water a cactus to ensure it isn't being overwatered. It allows the plant to soak up only the amount of moisture it needs. 

Alternatively, check the soil is dry all the way down the container. 'The easiest way to do this is to use a chopstick. Stick the chopstick inside the container, push it to the bottom, and pull it out. If it comes out dry, with no soil sticking to it, it’s time to water the plant,' says Vladan.

Overwatering your cactus may lead to houseplant root rot and a mushy, dying plant. You can also use a moisture meter, like this plant moisture meter from Amazon. 

3. Use well-draining potting mix

No matter what type of cactus you have, ensure it is in a well-draining potting mix. Cacti retain moisture well, as their thin needle leaves reduce the amount of water they transpire. It's therefore important to provide them with a potting mix that drains well so that your cactus isn't sitting in waterlogged soil with moisture it isn't soaking up, leading to oversaturation and root rot.

'You can buy ready-to-go potting mix for succulents and cacti, or you can make your own mix by mixing one part of any store-bought potting mix with one part of perlite, pumice, or coarse sand,' says Vladan.

Cacti potting mix is widely available on the market, such as this succulent and cactus soil from Perfect Plants Nursery. It can likewise be a good idea to home your cactus in a well-draining pot, like this planter with drainage holes on Amazon.

We explore how to report a cactus in our separate piece.

FAQs

How do you make a cactus flower?

Many types of cacti produce eye-catching, unique blooms that are often in vibrant shades of red, purple, yellow, and more. 

Blooming will depend on the cacti species, so it's important to do research around your specific plant. Generally speaking, you should provide optimal conditions, taking into consideration lighting, temperature and watering needs. Failing to do so may cause your cactus flower buds to drop off.

If you're looking for a colorful cactus variety, we explore how to grow Easter cactus in our dedicated feature.

Can you propagate a cactus?

You propagate and grow cactus plants from cuttings. This is the easiest method to multiply your cacti collection from your existing plants. 

Many cacti will produce offsets which are like baby plants. You can cut these off using clean tools and plant them in soil. Provide plenty of warmth, light, and water and your cutting will start to develop roots and grow into an established cactus. 

Depending on how fast your variety of cactus takes to grow, you can expect to have a new plant within a few weeks.

Cacti are fun houseplants that every plant enthusiast should have in their collection. They have quirky appearances and grow into all sorts of unusual shapes. 

If you're looking for another cactus with bright blooms, you should consider a Christmas cactus, this variety produces pink and red blooms during the winter holiday season. For a different succulent, consider how to grow lithops, for an unusual and striking indoor plant. 

Choosing from the best fast-growing indoor plants is a good way to quickly transform your home into an indoor jungle. And if you're a fan of indoor plants with quirky foliage, you might want to opt for the range of fast-growing succulents available.

Generally speaking, succulents are low-maintenance and easy to care for. With just some essential care, many succulents will double in size right before your eyes. Their unruly growth can add beautiful and unusual structure to your houseplant collection. 

We've compiled an expert list of the best fast-growing succulents so that you can create an indoor garden brimming with plenty of unique foliage.

5 fast-growing succulents

Succulents are popular among houseplant owners for their unique appearance and interesting shapes. There are many fast-growing succulents that will quickly double in size with just some essential care, creating some unusual shapes as they become larger.

1. Jade necklace

Part of the crassula family, jade necklaces, or Crassula 'Hottentot,' is a compact succulent that produces long strings of beaded foliage.

'The jade necklace succulent grows vigorously, cascading its small jade-green leaves elegantly over the side of its pot,' says Sally Allsop, founder of All That Grows.

'To care for your jade necklace, you should pot it in well-draining soil and allow the soil to dry out between watering to prevent root rot,' she adds.

These plants don't require lots of attention to thrive. They'll grow longer and longer until you have sturdy, beaded shoots spilling over the pot. 

It's also one of the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings so you can propagate your jade necklace to share with friends or have more in your home.

2. Kalanchoe

For an indoor flowering plant that will grow and bloom quickly, plant enthusiasts should consider a kalanchoe.

Kalanchoes are beautiful succulents that produce clusters of flowers in pink, orange and even have flowers that make them one of the best blue houseplants. There are also many types of kalanchoes with different shaped blooms, such as the bell flowers of mother of millions.

They are early bloomers and will brighten up your home from February through the entire spring season.

'You'll be impressed by the bright, beautiful flowers on this succulent,' says Sally. 'This is another succulent which you should avoid overwatering. It's also important to encourage good air circulation to promote healthy growth,' she adds.

3. Christmas cactus

The Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera, has remained a popular houseplant for a long time, loved for its tendrils and colorful blooms that trail over its container. 

'It produces tubular flowers in shades of pink, red or white during the holiday season,' says says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

'To encourage growth and enhance blooming, place the Christmas cactus in bright, indirect light and provide consistent, moderate watering,' he adds.

While they do grow fast once they're in a happy position, these succulents can be a bit pickier when it comes to finding the ideal spot to grow. In order to make a Christmas cactus bloom, it's important to provide it with plenty of bright daylight and only water your Christmas cactus every few weeks because it retains water well.

'Cooler temperatures can also promote flower production,' Alex says.

4. Jade plant

One of the most adaptable indoor plants is a jade plant. It's a cold-tolerant houseplant that also does will in direct sunlight and is easy to keep happy.

'Jade plant is a popular succulent with fleshy, oval-shaped leaves and a tree-like appearance as it matures. It is a relatively fast-growing succulent that can develop into a sturdy, compact shrub,' says Alex.

As it grows larger, jade plants may develop mini tree-like trunks which add charm to spots on windowsills. It's important to note that it's likely you will need to repot jade plants as its trunks become bigger, otherwise it could risk becoming pot-bound and cause the jade plant to drop leaves.

5. String of pearls

For lovers of indoor hanging plants, the string of pearls is a must-have. It's a beautiful cascading plant that produces long strings of gem-sized beads, with the possibility of growing around one meter long. 

'If treated right, you may find that in the springtime, the plant may flower with small white, cinnamon-scented blooms,' says Sally. 'You should choose a spot which provides bright, indirect light to help promote healthy growth,' she adds.

If you find your fast-growing string of pearls has become too long, you can easily trim it with clean tools, like scissors. Use any healthy cuttings you take to propagate string of pearls for more plants.

'Keep away from children and pets as the plant is mildly toxic and the beads look inviting to eat,' warns Sally.

Discover fast-growing succulents online

FAQs

How do you prune succulents?

Pruning is an important task for indoor plant owners because it helps to keep houseplants healthy and encourages new growth. When it comes to pruning succulents, you need do research around the care requirements of your specific plant. Generally speaking, succulents shouldn't need pruning as often as other plants. However, if you notice leggy growth or discoloring foliage on your succulent, it can be a good idea to trim them away to keep you plant happy. Make sure you adjust the growing conditions of your succulent to prevent more foliage becoming unhealthy.

Why has my succulent stopped growing?

Despite many succulents being fast-growing, it is possible for growth to come to a halt if their growing conditions aren't right. Succulents tend to not need as much water as other houseplants, so overwatering is a common cause for succulents to stop growing. It can cause root rot, preventing further growth and discoloring foliage. Likewise, succulents need plenty of natural light and may not grow well if they aren't receiving enough hours of bright light. You may also find your succulent has become pot-bound and needs to be repotted into a larger home to grow again. It's best to assess the conditions of your plant and adjust accordingly to promote growth.

Succulents are fun additions to have in your houseplant collection. Many of them are fast-growing and will form beautifully unique shapes as they become larger. While they are generally low-maintenance, it is important to provide the best conditions for them to thrive. You may want to do some research around how to care for succulents in winter when things like colder temperatures may affect your plant.

It's no secret that indoor plants can improve our wellbeing. Whether its helping with sleep or purifying the air, plants have been proven to help us out in more way than one. 

We already know that blue houseplants can evoke calm feelings, but did you know red houseplants can help boost energy?

'Among the myriad hues that influence our psyche, red stands out as a potent force, capable of evoking a range of intense sensations,' says Dr. Deborah Gilman, a psychologist at Fox Chapel Psychological Services. 'Psychologically, it is associated with traits such as energy, strength, and determination,' she adds.

We've spoken to experts to find out more about how decorating your home with plants that are red can have an energising effect, and which red houseplants are the best to achieve this look.

Why is red an energizing color?

In color psychology, red is a potent color that can have a strong impact on us. 

'The sight of red stimulates the autonomic nervous system, increasing heart rate and blood pressure, and instilling a sense of urgency and excitement,' says Dr. Gilman.

It has a history of being linked to primal instincts, too, often used to indicate danger. 'These associations have left an indelible mark on the human psyche, imbuing the color red with a sense of power and vitality,' Dr. Deborah Gilman adds.

Incorporating red into our homes can therefore leave interior spaces feeling energized. 

'In the context of home décor, incorporating red elements, such as houseplants with red leaves or flowers, can energize a space, making it feel more dynamic and lively,' says Niloufar Esmaeilpour, a clinical counsellor and founder of Lotus Therapy & Counselling Centre. 

Using red houseplants in spaces where energy and motivation is most needed can be a productive choice, such as a home office. 

'It's also essential to consider balance and harmony in interior design,' says Niloufar. 'Too much red, or very bright shades, might become overwhelming or create a sense of restlessness, especially in areas meant for relaxation like bedrooms.'

Recently, the unexpected red theory has taken TikTok by storm as many people are choosing to have one statement red item in a room where you might not expect it. It can leave the space leaving uplifted and choosing a red houseplant might just be the perfect way to achieve this.

Best red houseplants

When choosing which houseplants to have in your home, it's important to take color into consideration. Red indoor plants can energize your space, as well as being beautiful to look at. We've compiled an expert list of the best red houseplants to leave your home feeling uplifted.

Red moon cactus

If you're a lover of unusual and quirky cacti and succulents, a moon cactus is a must. These striking cacti come in a range of colors and have an interesting science behind their vibrancy.

'The red coloration is not actually long-lasting on it own but rather a result of grafting,' says Andy Burde, houseplant expert at the House Plant shop.

The bright spherical tops of these cacti gain their color from their lack of chlorophyll. This means they aren't able to survive long on their own because they aren't able to absorb and convert light energy into chemical energy.

As a result, moon cacti are grafted onto green cacti, allowing them to thrive. 

Moon cactus, also known as Gymnocalycium mihanovichii, are quite low-maintenance, as long as they have plenty of bright light and aren't watered too frequently.

Red anthurium 

It's not surprising that anthuriums have remained popular among houseplant lovers for a long time. They are among the best indoor flowering plants and have bright blooms that will flower all year round.

Although commonly called flowers, the red foliage on these plants are actually modified waxy leaves called 'spathes.'

'Known for its glossy red spathes, anthuriums add a touch of exotic beauty to any space,' says Andy. 'It thrives in bright, indirect light and enjoys consistent moisture,' he adds.

These plants are native to central America, northern Argentina and parts of the Caribbean where they enjoy higher humidity levels. It can be a good idea to replicate this environment in your home for it to thrive, like using this humidity tray from Amazon.

Red polka dot plant

If you love small houseplants or are looking for a more subtle touch of red, the compact polka dot plant is a great choice.

Also known as Hypoestes phyllostachya, these plants grow only around 11 inches tall and are perfect for filling a spot on a windowsill or shelf.

'With charming red-speckled foliage, red polka dot plants are delightful additions to indoor gardens,' says Andy. 'Its botanical name, Hypoestes phyllostachya, actually means 'under the web-like spikes,' referring to the plant's flower spikes.'

Take care to provide these plants with sufficient bright, indirect light because failing to do so could result in a lack of color on new growth.

Fittonia 'Red Tiger'

Often mistaken for a polka dot plant, fittonias are equally small and compact with striking, colorful foliage that does all the talking.

They are tropical to south American rainforests where they grow low to the ground. They don't mind being in a low-light position and are guaranteed to brighten up shadier spots in your home.

'The 'Red Tiger' fittonia showcases striking red veins against a backdrop of green foliage,' says Andy. 'Fittonias are also known as nerve plants due to the intricate vein patterns on their leaves,' he adds.

Like other tropical indoor plants, fittonias enjoy higher humidity levels, so it can be a good idea to use something like this mister from Plants.com to keep humidity high.

Begonia 'Red Heart'

For something a bit leafier, begonias can bring interesting structure to indoor gardens.

These houseplants are popular for their lovely heart-shaped leaves. Many varieties also offer blowsy blooms in a range of shades and they can also be grown outdoors in US hardiness zones nine and 10. 

The begonia 'red heart' is a bold plant with eye-catching foliage that is certain to be a conversation starter among your visitors.

'Begonias are often called 'fancy-leaf' due to their ornamental foliage,' says Andy. 'It appreciates moderate to bright indirect light and regular watering to keep the soil lightly moist,' he adds.

They're also very easy to propagate through stem cuttings and division, so you can have more of these statement plants in your home.

Red bromeliad

Bromeliads are unique exotic plants that produce striking flowers of varying shapes and colors. Red bromeliads are often the most popular varieties as houseplants, including guzmanias and aechmeas.

'Characterized by vibrant red bracts, red bromeliads add a tropical flair to interiors,' says Andy. 'Fun fact: Bromeliads are epiphytic, meaning they naturally grow on trees rather than in soil in their native habitats,' he adds.

Bromeliads can be found in rainforests of central and southern America. There are more than 3000 species but not all can be grown as houseplants. 

To keep that pop of red bright, it's essential to give your bromeliad plenty of natural light, high humidity and warmth. Although, most bromeliads only flower once so don't be disheartened when blooms don't return.

Aglaonema 'Cherry Baby'

Chinese evergreen plants, also known as aglaonemas, are a staple for houseplant displays. They have unique variegated leaves that heighten interest and add a jungle-feel to your home.

There are so many varieties of these plants but Aglaonema 'Cherry Baby' arguably packs the most punch in color.

'It thrives in low to moderate light and requires infrequent watering. They're also known for their air-purifying qualities,' says Andy.

These plants are native to subtropical regions of Asia and will grow around 25 inches tall, making it ideal for fitting in smaller spaces. 

Take care not to overwater aglaonemas as they will quickly tell you something is wrong with drooping and yellowing foliage.

Shop red houseplants online

FAQs

What other color plants evoke energizing feelings?

Red houseplants can energize spaces in our homes, but it isn't the only color to do this. 

'Yellow, the color of sunshine, radiates positivity and optimism. It's associated with feelings of joy, happiness, and warmth,' says Dr. Deborah Gilman, a psychologist at Fox Chapel Psychological Services.

Yellow indoor plants can therefore also have uplifting impact on interiors. Examples include cut flowers like daffodils, yellow fittonias and yellow orchids.

Psychology tells us that the color red can energize and motivate us, often originating from primal instincts. Choosing to have red houseplants in your home can positively uplift your space, as well as adding bright and beautiful houseplant interest. If you want to know more about how indoor plants can bring positive energy to your home, you may find this list of feng shui plants interesting.

Amaryllis and Christmas cactus plants are the most sought after in America, that's according to research into the nation's favorite winter flowers.

The study by Pergola Kits USA analyzed online search volumes in the last 12 months for a range of flowers that bloom in the coldest months of the year and very early spring. The data uncovered each of the US states' favorite winter bloomer.

Amaryllis were in the top five most-searched for winter flowers in all states. Overall, there were 235,833 searches nationwide for these beautiful flowers in the past 12 months.

Sticking with the festive theme, Christmas cactus was the second most-searched for winter bloomer. It was also in the top five of every state. Across the US, there were 227,250 searches for Christmas cactus in the last year, the research states.

Festive plants have the highest online search in the US

'It is of no surprise to me to see amaryllis and Christmas cactus appear top of America’s favorite winter plants list - they are both utterly enchanting,’ says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 

‘Both plants are naturally associated with the holiday season, and while they can look incredible as a part of a festive centerpiece, with a little care and attention they can work to brighten up a dark, cozy corner of your living room over many months,' she adds.

Other flowering favorites topping the list

Other winter bloomers in the top five included pansies with 188,583 searches, poinsettia with 134,491 searches, and witch hazel with 127,783 searches.

'In the coldest months when trees are bare and most plants are in hibernation, it can be easy to take a hiatus from appreciating the floral world,' says Fred Von Burg, CEO of Pergola Kits USA.

'These winter-bloomers keep the world bright and colorful when the winter can make it feel bleak and monochrome, so it’s fascinating to know which of these winter beauties are favored across the country,' he adds.

FAQs

How long does it take to grow amaryllis indoors?

Amaryllis is a popular indoor flowering houseplant for its bright red and white blooms that add a festive touch during the winter months. They're easy to grow indoors and will bloom within eight weeks. The blooms will last for many months if cared for properly. You can even keep amaryllis bulbs once they have finished flowering to be rewarded with more beautiful blooms the following year.

Is Christmas cactus easy to care for?

Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera bridgesii, is an easy to care for flowering houseplant with beautiful orange, red and pink flowers. They should be kept in bright, indirect light and watered frequently during its growing period. Insufficient light and incorrect watering can lead to a Christmas cactus looking limp or not flowering.

Q: I have just bought a few small succulents, including aloes, echeveria, and a jade plant. I plan to plant them together in a large, bowl-shaped container to brighten up my desk. What soil would you recommend I use?

A: Perhaps the most important thing to remember when caring for succulents is that too much water can quickly lead to problems – and even be fatal for the plants. This means, as well as turning your watering regime down to a minimum, you’ll need to select a potting soil that doesn’t become waterlogged easily.

The best potting soil for your succulents

Succulents don’t need moisture-retaining soil because they naturally grow in arid environments, and have adapted to store water in their leaves and tissue, explains plant expert Autumn Hilliard-Knapp. What's more, wet soil prevents air from reaching their delicate roots, and will cause them to rot, adds Kiersten Rankel of houseplant-care app, Greg.

Conveniently, there are many well-draining commercial mixes available that are specially formulated for growing succulents and cacti. These usually contain a combination of materials like peat moss, pine bark, coarse sand, and perlite, Autumn says.

Paris Lalicata from The Sill agrees that using a succulent- or cactus-specific potting mix is the way forward. ‘You definitely want to avoid potting your succulents with standard potting mixes,’ she adds, as this would be a succulent mistake. Most standard potting mixes for indoor plants are designed for tropical houseplants, and retain a lot of moisture, she explains.

Top tip: If you’re planting your succulents in a terrarium, a ‘drainage layer’ of gravel or small rocks beneath your layer of potting mix can be beneficial. 

Shop cactus and succulent potting mixes:

How to make your own potting mix for succulents

You can make your own succulent mix by combining equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite, sand, or gravel, says Kiersten Rankel. This creates lots of air pockets to help with drainage, while still providing plenty of nutrients, she explains.

'Make sure your pot has a drainage hole so any extra water can escape,' she adds.

Top tip: Perlite is a lightweight material made from volcanic glass or rock. It is beneficial for improving the drainage and aeration of potting mixes. You can buy organic perlite from Perfect Plants Nursery.

FAQs

Can you grow succulents in water?

It may come as a surprise, but stem cuttings from some types of succulents can be propagated in water as opposed to soil. Ensure you change the water frequently to keep it clean and avoid getting the stems and leaves wet, as this may cause them to rot.

Can you grow succulents in sand?

Some succulents can survive in just sand, providing it is coarse enough to drain well. However, you may need to add a little fertilizer to provide enough nutrients for them. Combining sand with potting soil is generally a better approach to help your plants flourish.

Aside from getting the soil right, there are a few other important aspects of successful succulent care. These include repotting and pruning them when needed. 

Remember, too, that succulents can be propagated from cuttings. So, if you love tending to your collection, it’s easy to make more for free.

Q: I love Christmas cactuses for their winter flowers and have a few in my living room. Is it possible to grow them outside, too? I'm wondering about planting some in patio containers.

A: Christmas cactuses are well-loved festive plants for brightening our homes, and are attractive even when they're not in bloom. In some regions, these tropical beauties can also be grown successfully outdoors, but the conditions have to be right.

3 tips for growing Christmas cactuses outdoors

If you live somewhere warm enough, you can try growing these stylish succulents in containers on your porch or patio.

1. Ensure outdoor temperatures are suitable

These frost-tender plants hail from balmy Brazilian rainforests. So, it's no surprise they need a warm climate to survive if they're going to stay outdoors all year.

If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 10-12, you can plant them directly into the ground, says Paris Lalicata of The Sill. Otherwise, you could move them outdoors in hanging baskets or containers for the spring and summer months, when days are warmer, she adds.

If doing the latter, ensure you bring them inside again before the seasons shift. This should be before night temperatures dip below 50°F, says Kiersten Rankel, a plant expert of Gregarious, Inc.

Top tip: Paris advises choosing a planting area that has filtered sunlight or partial shade. As Rebecca Sears, a gardening expert at Ferry-Morse warns, too much sun can cause yellowing of the plants.

2. Carefully acclimate your Christmas cactus to outdoor conditions

While Kiersten says mature, healthy Christmas cactus plants can thrive outdoors, she also notes how they must be correctly acclimated. To do this, she advises gradually introducing them to increased light and humidity over 2-3 weeks before permanent placement.

Donna Letier, the founder and CEO of Gardenuity, agrees that the transition to outdoor conditions should be gradual, and recommends waiting until spring or early summer to do so.

3. Avoid waterlogging the soil

These plants prefer well-draining soil, says Donna, who recommends maintaining a moist, but not wet, environment. They tend to tolerate slight underwatering better than excessive moisture, she adds.

Planting in porous pots, such as ones made from terracotta, will help ensure your Christmas cactus drains well and isn’t overwatered, says Rebecca Sears.

This Haws mini watering can from Terrain is ideal for precise hydration. 

Top tip: Applying a light fertilizer from March to October will support seasonal blooms, highlights Kiersten. 

FAQs

If planting a Christmas cactus outdoors isn't suitable for your backyard's conditions, don't despair. You can still keep yours looking its very best as part of your interior scheme, and there are plenty of other beautiful alternatives for admiring outdoors. 

If you love succulents, consider hardy sedums. Or, if you're looking for winter flowers, you could plant early-flowering bulbs such as crocuses, or a winter-blooming shrub.

Christmas cacti, also known as schlumbergera, are one of the most popular houseplants at this time of year - and for good reason. 

As houseplants, they require a little maintenance, but if you know how often and when you should water them they can be trained to bloom annually at a specific time, providing many joyful holiday seasons.

During the festive period, your Christmas cactus may encounter unwelcome guests in the form of pests that threaten its health and vibrancy. 

Understanding the signs of infestation and having effective treatment strategies in place is crucial for keeping your holiday centerpiece pest-free and thriving.

5 common Christmas cactus pests and how to treat them 

Christmas cacti are pretty resilient, but they can fall prey to a few pests. Below our experts have identified common Christmas cactus pests and how to treat them. 

Spider mites

Spider mites are one of the pests that can damage the cactus, and usually they are so tiny that they cannot be seen with the unaided eye. 

If, on the other hand, you notice tiny webbing or tiny speckles on the leaves, you can be sure your Christmas cactus is a spider mite infestation.

According to Mike Lansing, co-founder of Planters Digest, by using insecticidal soap spray on a regular basis, spider mite infestations are typically easily treated. 

Mix as per the instructions on the bottle and give your cactus a rejuvenating spray. Make sure you cover all the nooks and crannies. Dusty environments draw mites, so try to keep the leaves clean. 

Mealybugs

The single biggest sign that you're dealing with mealybugs is their telltale little cotton ball appearance on your plants, but you'll probably also be noticing stunted or uneven growth as well. 

Check hidden spots like leaf joints, as mealybugs love to hide there, and tend to occur along with mold.

Overwatering your Christmas cactus is a great way to encourage a mealybug infestation. Use insecticidal soap, or neem oil such as this one from Amazon to deal with the mealybugs themselves, and replace your plant's soil if you're also dealing with a mold infestation. 

Scale Insects

Scale insects are common pests in Christmas cacti, which cause brown spots on stems and secrete sticky segments. These sap-sucking insects can deprive all the nutrients of the cactus to such an extent that floral production and growth can be seriously affected. They then excrete sticky honeydew which has a black, sooty texture.

These need to be dealt with immediately and the best way to manage soft brown scale insects is to use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to remove them from the plant. 

Repeat the treatment once every 5-7 days for at least a month. Neem oil should then be applied to the afflicted regions.

Aphids

These soft-bodied, sap-sucking bugs come in from outside and are prime targets for cacti that are comfortably moist and well-nourished. Aphids will suck the sap directly from your plant, leaving honeydew behind. Irregular growth or yellow leaves are clear signs of infestation.

One way to manage aphids is to rinse your plant under a tap with a steady stream of water, and wash as many aphids as you can down the drain. 

You could also place a sticky trap, such as this one from Amazon, near the pot, and/or a bowl of soapsuds made with one or two drops of dish detergent per two cups of water, to attract and catch flying aphids. For persistent pests, spray the foliage with neem oil.

Fungus gnats

These small, dark flies are attracted to moist soil and lay their eggs in the top layer of the potting mix. To manage fungus gnats, allow the soil to dry out between waterings, and avoid over watering, ensuring the soil is not over-fertilized.

Symptoms of a fungus gnat infestation include weakened, wilted, and yellowed leaves, as well as stunted growth. Clearing away any debris and maintaining proper drainage can also help prevent fungus gnats.

You can also use yellow sticky traps to capture adult gnats, says Zahid Adnan, founder of The Plant Bible. ‘If you are having difficulty in removing the fungus gnats, also try applying a biological control agent to the soil.’ 

FAQs

Preventing and treating pest infestations in Christmas cacti involves keeping the plant healthy and taking swift action if signs of infestation are detected. This can be achieved through regular maintenance such as wiping down leaves and providing adequate light, water, and nutrients. 

Treatment options include insecticidal soap, neem oil spray, or introducing natural predators. Always make sure to follow product instructions for safe use. By following these tips, your Christmas cactus can thrive for years to come. 

Christmas cactuses, with their trailing, scalloped leaves, make an attractive houseplant year-round. However, they look their best around Christmas time, when they adorn their vibrant blooms in red, pink, or white.

Learning how to care for a Christmas cactus correctly is key for flowers every festive season. But, another important aspect for encouraging beautiful blooms is providing long, dark nights for part of the year. While this is easier to achieve in northern climates, in southern areas you may need to take steps to reduce the amount of light your plant gets for a few weeks.

To help you go about it in the right way, and at the right time, we turned to houseplant professionals. Below, they share their practical advice, so you can enjoy your Christmas cactus’s dazzling display again and again.

Provide bright, indirect light in the day

Getting the light levels right for any indoor plant is an essential part of keeping them healthy.

Many plant parents assume that cacti need plenty of sunshine. While this is true for many varieties from desert environments, the Christmas cactus hails from rainforests, and generally thrives best in bright but indirect sunlight. In fact, too much sunshine can make their leaves go limp, as well as burn and discolor them.

How and when to reduce the light for your Christmas cactus

Kiersten Rankel, an expert from houseplant-care app Greg, says, ‘While Christmas cacti don't need complete darkness to bloom, they do benefit from a period of longer nights and cooler temperatures to trigger flowering. This mimics their natural habitat in Brazilian rainforests.

‘To encourage blooming, give your Christmas cactus 12-14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night for about six to eight weeks, starting in late September or early October,’ she says. ‘You can do this by moving the plant to a dark room or covering it with a light-proof box. During the day, provide it with its usual bright, indirect light.’

Nastya Vasylchyshyna, a resident botany expert at Plantum, notes how you can simply place your Christmas cactus on a windowsill if your region naturally gets colder and has short days followed by long nights in late fall. ‘Hide it behind a thick curtain to avoid disrupting the plant’s circadian cycle with artificial lighting,’ she adds.

Top tip: There are other factors to bear in mind to help your Christmas cactus bloom, too, including fertilizing it at the right time.

FAQs

When can you expect your Christmas cactus to flower?

Once buds have appeared, it can take up to twelve weeks for the flowers to fully develop. They usually bloom between November and January, making them popular Christmas plants.

Should you water your Christmas cactus less to help it form buds?

Reducing how often you water your Christmas cactus, at the same time as reducing light and temperature, can also help encourage more blooms.

Looking for more tips to help your Christmas cactus flourish? Our guide on repotting Christmas cactuses is well worth a look, while our tips on propagating Christmas cactuses will help you get new plants for free.

Q: A friend gave me a Christmas cactus last winter, but all the buds fell off before I could enjoy the blooms. I've just bought another one for my home, but I don't want the same thing to happen again. Do you have any advice?

A: Christmas cactuses, with their vibrant flowers, are one of the best festive plants. But unfortunately, bud drop is a relatively common and disappointing problem.

It's a telltale sign that something isn't quite right with their environment or maintenance routine. With the right know-how, it can be avoided.

3 potential reasons why your Christmas cactus is losing its buds

Christmas cactuses make a beautiful addition to festive decor if they flower as expected. These tips will help you encourage those buds to stay put and bloom successfully.

1. The wrong growing environment

First, you'll need to get the location right. 'Any plant that is developing flowers needs plenty of bright light,' says Paris Lalicata of The Sill.

As with most houseplants, indirect light is best, rather than hot sunshine.

Avoid placing them near drafts or exposing them to extreme temperature changes, recommends plant expert Zahid Adnan of The Plant Bible. This means keeping your plant safely away from central heating. An average room temperature is well-suited.

2. Moving them around too much

Keep your Christmas cactus' conditions as steady as you can, advises houseplant expert and author Agatha Isabel. 'Try not to keep moving it around and exposing it to different environments.'

This goes for rotating the plant, too. 'Generally, it's a great idea to rotate your plants for even growth,' explains Paris. However, once your Christmas cactus begins budding, it's best to stop doing this. 'The buds are fragile, and when rotated, it will cause them to stretch in the opposite direction, which results in them breaking off.'

You should also avoid repotting your Christmas cactus once it has started to develop buds, Paris adds.

3. Watering problems

It's essential to water your Christmas cactus correctly for it to thrive.

'The number one way to stress out plants and kill them is by overwatering,' warns Agatha. But while this can lead to bud drop, it's important not to under-water them, too.

'Christmas cacti prefer slightly moist soil but should not be waterlogged,' Zahid Adnan says. 'Ensure proper drainage and allow the top inch of soil to dry before watering.'

'The plant will also benefit from higher humidity since it's from a tropical environment,' Paris Lalicata adds.

Putting yours on a pebble tray, regularly misting it, or keeping a humidifier nearby (such as this well-rated one from Amazon) is a good idea.

Top tip: Using clean, harvested rainwater is best. You can also feed it with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to help it flower successfully.

FAQs

Looking for more festive flowers to brighten your scheme? Poinsettias are another colorful favorite and are relatively easy to look after. Amaryllis and indoor cyclamens are other beautiful options.

The mistletoe cactus, otherwise known as Rhipsalis baccifera, is an attractive type of succulent. And, although originally hailing from tropical climes, it's well-suited for growing as a houseplant. 

Placing these indoor plants up high will show off their elegant, trailing foliage. With the right growing conditions, they can also produce delicate white blooms in spring, followed by pearly berries.

What's more, mistletoe cacti are an easy houseplant to look after, making them a good choice for beginner plant parents. But there are still a few things you'll need to get right to help them thrive.

3 tips to keep your mistletoe cactus happy and healthy

This advice will help you provide proper care for these trailing houseplants.

1. Provide the correct amount of moisture

Unlike desert cacti, the mistletoe cactus requires more frequent watering, says Kayla Gajdascz of Mental Houseplants. 

'Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Ensure the pot has good drainage to prevent water from sitting at the bottom, as this can lead to root rot,' she adds. 'During the winter months, reduce watering as the plant goes into a dormant phase.

'Being a tropical plant, Rhipsalis baccifera enjoys higher humidity,' Kayla continues. 'If your home is dry, especially in winter, consider using a humidifier or placing the plant on a pebble tray with water.'

This 3-liter humidifier from Levoit at Amazon is well-rated.

Paris Lalicata of The Sill suggests using a standard indoor potting mix that is well-draining. While you can use a cacti-specific soil for the plant, they usually don't have a lot of nutrients or retain moisture for long periods, she says. 'Therefore, you may see yourself watering a bit more frequently, as well as needing to fertilize periodically.' 

Top tip: 'Do not fertilize in the winter when the plant's growth slows down,' Kayla says.

2. Get the lighting right

'Rhipsalis baccifera prefers bright, indirect light,' says Kayla. 'Direct sunlight can be too harsh and cause the plant to scorch, especially during the hotter parts of the day.' On the other hand, leggy growth or a pale coloration can indicate insufficient light, she adds.

Paris suggests putting it in an east-facing window, as the morning direct sun won't be too strong for it.

3. Repot your mistletoe cactus when needed

'Repot your mistletoe cactus every two to three years, or when it outgrows its pot,' says Kayla.

'Choose a pot that is about 1-2 inches larger than its current pot and ensure it has good drainage holes. Repotting is best done in the spring or early summer to induce less stress on the plant.'

Top tip: All indoor plants will benefit from repotting when the time is right, from jade plants to monsteras.

FAQs

The mistletoe cactus is a less familiar houseplant to some, but if you can find one, it makes a great addition to the home. And, if you're looking for more low-maintenance plants to include in your collection, consider pothos, spider plants, and peace lilies, too.

Learning how to propagate a Thanksgiving cactus means you get more of your favorite succulents for free. These new plants will make wonderful, seasonal gift ideas to give to friends and family for the holidays. Alternatively, propagating is an efficient and great value way to expand your own indoor plant collection.

The three key methods of propagation are by using cuttings placed in soil, cuttings placed in water, and division of your existing plant. If you've cared for your Thanksgiving cactus well and have an already thriving plant, you might want instant results, in which case division would be the best option for you.

However, some houseplant experts prefer using the cuttings technique. We take you through each method step-by-step, and detail how to care for your new, baby plants to ensure they stay healthy.

3 methods for Thanksgiving cactus propagation

When it comes to Thanksgiving cactus vs Christmas cactus, the propagation methods are fairly interchangeable. Whichever method you choose, the best time to propagate your plant is after it has finished blooming.

Although spring and summer will give the best results, Autumn Janus, plant expert at Perfect Plants, assures us that it is not necessary to only propagate them at these times. 'The Thanksgiving cactus will successfully propagate throughout the year indoors,' she says.

Propagating a Thanksgiving cactus by division

Whilst this is a quick and effective method of propagation, it's important to note that it has the most impact on your plant.

Tom Knight, owner at ourhouseplants.com, doesn't favor this method as he says 'the charm of these plants are their full and bulky look and their arching stems as they mature. You'll lose this if you divide the plant'.

However, if this isn't a concern for you, this method will give you quick results. Tom Su, garden and landscaping expert outlines his steps below:

• Separate with care: Take care when lifting the plant from its container. Gently run your fingers through the roots and divide the root ball into smaller parts. Or just take off one small section. Healthy stems and substantial root systems are key to success.
• Repot your plants: Place each new plant into a container of a good potting mix. Give them light water and leave in indirect sunlight until they root.
• Add rooting hormone: Although it is optional, using a rooting hormone on the stem bottom speeds up rooting. (Try this rooting hormone for cuttings from Walmart).
• Aftercare: The cuttings and divided plants should be kept in bright indirect light. Lack of sufficient shade and too much direct sunlight will subject the plants to stress conditions.
• It will take two to four weeks for rooting to take place and then you should start to notice growth soon afterwards.

Propagating a Thanksgiving cactus in soil

If you choose to propagate using cuttings you need to decide whether to use segment (or stem) cuttings or leaf cuttings. 'They're very similar, says Tom Knight. 'The main difference is the length of the segment of plant you are propagating.

'If you look at the Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus, it's easy to see they grow in chain-like strands, with each leaf being an inch or so long,' explains Tom. 'Segment cuttings will have several leaves joined together in a chain, whereas leaf cuttings are single leaves. Both will work well.'

Top tip: put multiple cuttings in the same pot. This makes your plant fill out much faster than a single cutting.

Tom outlines his steps below:

• Make your cut: Choose healthy, mature leaves or segments. Avoid any that have a flower bud at the end. Use clean, sharp pruning shears - these houseplant snips from Amazon are an ideal size and shape - to make the cut. Allow the samples to dry and callus for a day or two.
• Place in a pot: Lay the cut ends of the leaf segments on top of a well-draining potting mix, burying them slightly. They don't need to be deep, but the cutting has to have good contact with the potting mix. You can use a rooting hormone, but it's not essential.
• Aftercare: Keep everything moist and warm. Roots should develop in a few weeks, and new plantlets will often emerge from the base of the segments or leaves a short time after.

Propagating a Thanksgiving cactus in water

Luckily, knowing how to propagate a Thanksgiving cactus in water is the same as in soil. It's also a well-used method for propagating a Christmas cactus.

Autumn Janus favors the water method: 'I personally prefer propagating plants in water because I don’t have to water them as often and I enjoy watching the roots grow,' she says.

'It will take a few weeks, but once you see roots forming in the water wait until a network of roots have developed, then move your cuttings into a potting mix to grow on,' says Tom Knight.

Tom Su believes propagation in soil is generally more effective, but that water propagation can be successful, too.

'Put the cutting into a jar of water such that only the bottom part stays wet,' he advises, which is shown in the image above.

FAQs

Can you put Thanksgiving cactus cuttings straight into the soil?

'Cactus cuttings can be planted with ease directly in an open garden bed or in any type of container,' says Tom Knight, owner of Ourhousplants.com.

'Make sure the soil is porous and loamy for it to dry off fast, and not allow water to stick to its surface. Place the cut ends about an inch into the soil and press down lightly to fill around it,' he says.

Once you have mastered the art of houseplant propagation on one plant, it definitely feels easier to try it with others. The gratification of seeing new roots form and leaves grow is quite wonderful. It's useful to be clued up on the houseplant propagation mistakes to avoid, which could damage or kill your cuttings. And also, if you want to create new plants fast, our advice on how to speed up houseplant propagation might be very handy.

Thanksgiving cactuses, or Schlumbergera truncata, are popular indoor plants for fall, with their bright blooms in brilliant reds, pinks, purples, or whites. Hailing from tropical, South American climates, they add an exotic look to any interior scheme and will last decades with the right care.

At first glance, the Thanksgiving cactus looks very similar to the Christmas cactus and Easter cactus, and they share many of the same maintenance requirements, too. Unsurprisingly, they come from the same genus – Schlumbergera – but you can tell them apart by the leaves (the foliage of the Christmas cactus has smoother edges).

The Thanksgiving cactus also flowers slightly earlier, as its name suggests. And, if you look closely enough, you'll spot that the blooms are a slightly different shape. So, to make sure your plant blooms beautifully at the right time this year, we've gathered some expert-approved care tips that are guaranteed to help.

3 tips for looking after your Thanksgiving cactus

If you're having trouble telling which kind of Schlumbergera you have, 'The flowers of a Thanksgiving cactus tend to have a more asymmetrical appearance and have a tubular or funnel-shaped structure,' says Kayla Gajdascz of Mental Houseplants.

A Thanksgiving cactus will grow to approximately 24inches wide, depending on the size of its pot, and it is a pretty low maintenance houseplant to add to your collection. Even so, the right care tips will help keep it looking its best.

1. Avoid over-watering your Thanksgiving cactus and feed during the growing season

Thanksgiving cactuses are succulents, which means they are particularly susceptible to root rot if they sit in standing water. They need moist soil, but over-saturating them should be avoided at all costs.

'Water them thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch,' advises Kayla, adding that you should reduce watering in the winter months, when the plant is not actively growing.

They also need to be planted in a well-draining medium. Autumn Janus of Perfect Plants Nursery recommends using their succulent and cactus soil.

Alternatively, you can create your own potting mix, as Kayla points out. Simply combine regular potting soil with perlite or sand to increase drainage. Remember to use pots with drainage holes in the bottom, too. Peat moss and orchid bark would also work well for these plants - in their natural environment Thanksgiving cacti are epiphytic, meaning they grow off trees, so by recreating their natural growing conditions as much as possible you'll have a greater chance of success.

In terms of feeding, use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer months, Kayla advises.

Top tip: As tropical plants, Thanksgiving cactuses appreciate a humid environment. Frequently misting the plants can help, as can a nearby humidifier (this one from Pure Enrichment at Amazon is well-rated). Alternatively, place them in more humid rooms in the house, such as the bathroom.

2. Provide the right amount of light and warmth

'Thanksgiving cacti thrive in bright, indirect light,' notes Autumn. 'During the winter months, they can tolerate more direct light, but during the summer, it is best to provide filtered light to prevent leaf scorch.'

'They prefer average room temperatures,' adds Kayla Gajdascz. 'About 65-75°F during the day and cooler nighttime temperatures of 55-65°F can help encourage bud formation.'

'Avoid placing it near drafts or heating and cooling vents, because sudden temperature fluctuations may stress the plant,' says Autumn.

3. Prune your Thanksgiving cactus after flowering or if stems look leggy

Pruning succulents such as Thanksgiving cactuses can encourage them to form a bushier and more compact shape. If you've had yours for a while, don't be afraid to trim back any overly leggy stems once it has finished blooming by removing a few leaf segments from the tips.

Just be careful not to remove over one-third of the plant at a time to make its recovery easier. Any damaged sections can be snipped off, too.

Always use a clean and sharp pair of pruners or scissors when pruning to avoid harming the plants.

Most flowers will fall off naturally once they have died. However, you can deadhead any that are still clinging to the plant by hand if you want to – they will be dry and withered and should break off very easily.

FAQs

How do you propagate a Thanksgiving cactus?

Propagating these succulents can be done by taking stem cuttings. Allow the wounds to callus before replanting them into well-draining potting soil to increase the chances of success.

Why are the leaves falling off my Thanksgiving cactus?

Usually watering problems are to blame – you may be giving it too little or too much. If you suspect it's the latter, remove the plant from its pot and check for signs of root rot. Damaged roots can be cut away and then you can replant the cactus into fresh, dry soil to help it recover.

These pretty plants are a perfect way to bring a splash of color into the home during the cooler fall months. But even without blooms, their foliage is attractive all year round. And, if you love their look, don't forget about the Easter cactus, too, which flowers in spring.

If you're wondering how to clean houseplant leaves first take into consideration the variety and how dusty the leaves are. They may be some of the best indoor plants to grow, but houseplants are real dust gatherers. Unsightly dust and dirt easily collects on the leaves, taking the shine off your collection. But different plants require different methods of cleaning for the best results.

Cleaning houseplants is good for them as they aren't able to photosynthesise properly if their leaves have a build-up of dust that reduces their ability to absorb sunlight. So for the health and wellbeing of your plants, as well as their appearance, a regular wash and brush-up is a good idea.

Bear in mind that if you keep your windows open on a regular basis, have ceiling fans or pets in the house, you might need to clean your plants more often. 

'In winter in particular, wiping houseplant leaves clean will really help them to make the most of declining light levels,' says Ruth Hayes, gardening expert and former editor of Amateur Gardening. 

It's a good idea to schedule a cleaning session once a month so your collection of houseplants always looks its best. You can add this to your weekly watering and tidy-up session but it's easy to forget, so why not set up a calendar note to remind you. 

What you'll need for cleaning your houseplant's leaves

It's not really a question of whether you should clean your houseplants (as we definitely think you should), it's more about how you do it to get the best results. 

If you have quite a selection of houseplants of different varieties, shapes and sizes it's a good idea to put your own plant care kit together to deal with every eventuality. 

Being covered in a layer of dust means your plants won’t look their best yet surprisingly it's one of the biggest indoor plant mistakes we make. Here are some suggestions for basics you should include. 

• A plant mister or clean spray bottle, available from Amazon
• Soft (and clean) microfiber cleaning cloth, available from Amazon
• Clean and dry paintbrush
• Artist's painting brush with fine tip
• Pack of Q tips
• Cotton wool balls

How to clean houseplants with smooth and shiny leaves

It's easy to keep plants with a smooth and shiny surface clean such as rubber plants, monstera plants and fiddle leaf figs. All you need to do is occasionally wipe over the leaves with a damp microfibre cloth or damp non-scratchy sponge. Support the leaves as you wipe so they don’t snap off.

'If your houseplants are struggling with thrips or other common houseplant pests, try diluting a drop of non-fragranced organic soap with water and adding this to the cloth. Alternatively, gently mist the plant with the solution before you start cleaning,' says Holly Crossley, houseplant expert and senior content editor for Homes & Gardens. 'This will help to keep the bugs at bay.'

If you want to add a real lustre to houseplants with leaves like this apply your own leaf shine mix after you've wiped dust from the leaves. A mixture of half milk and half water applied with cotton wool balls also works. Be sure to squeeze out the cotton wool ball first so the solution doesn't drip. 

If you have a houseplant that's huge and you don't want to move it, try reaching up with a feather duster instead to get to those difficult to reach spots.

How to clean houseplants with feathery foliage

Plants like maidenhair fern, Boston fern and asparagus fern have delicate leafy foliage that is best brushed over with a clean soft paint brush to loosen any dust or dirt. Use a gentle swishing motion to dislodge the dust. If the debris isn't shifting try dipping the paintbrush in lukewarm water and gently painting the leaves with it until the leaves are clean. 

The smaller and more delicate the plant, the smaller and softer the brush you should use. Once you've finished cleaning them treat your plants to a light misting of water from a spray, which also helps to increase the humidity around them.

Leafy plants like Kentia palm can be cleaned by draping a soft damp cloth over a leaf then gently running it along the length of the leaf from stem to tip.

How to clean cacti and succulent plants

Thorny cacti are tricky when it comes to how to clean them as you need to be extra careful around their prickly stems. Don't be tempted to use water. Instead use a clean, dry paintbrush to softly stroke between the spikes and pick up any dust or dirt particles. For small cacti plants try using a Q tip in the same way or a clean artist's painting brush with a fine point.

For indoor succulents, run a clean, dry, soft cloth over each individual leaf from stem to tip. They should shine up nicely if you do this. Avoid splashing water from above or spritzing them with water.

The good news is that both cacti and succulent varieties are some of the best low maintenance indoor plants you can grow, so other than this quick cleaning task there's not much else you will need to do. 

Cleaning houseplant leaves in a bucket of water

This is a good idea for the smaller plants in your indoor garden. Fill a bucket with lukewarm water. Hold the base of the plant firmly at soil level, then turn it upside-down. Dunk into the bucket of water, and gently swish the leaves around. 

You could also use plastic wrap around the base of the plant and pot to contain the soil and stop it falling out while you're doing this. Let the plants dry thoroughly before moving them back into position.

If you're cleaning your kitchen plants using this method, it can help to add a little mild dish soap to the water to help thoroughly clean the leaves and remove the build up of sticky grime from cooking. 

FAQs

You might need to add it to your fall cleaning tasks, but cleaning your houseplants doesn't have to be a chore. With the right kit and natural cleaning methods to hand it needn't take long to keep houseplant leaves looking shiny and healthy.  

Diane Keaton, like many of us, understands the enduring power of a classic white kitchen – but in her case, it comes with a SoCal-inspired twist. 

Situated inside her Spanish Colonial Revival, located in Beverly Hills, the actress has designed a bright white kitchen with dark wooden accents that complement the home's architectural features. However, alongside its nod to its southern European-inspired roots, Diane pays homage to its Californian zip code with a statement trio of cacti. 

The plants in question, named Barbary figs, are seen atop her white marble kitchen island – and, thanks to their generous size, they're an instant focal point. 

Deriving from dry, barren deserts, cactuses have evolved as a symbol of strength and resilience – making it a popular indoor plant internationally. However, as the home to Palm Springs, Anza-Borrego Desert, and Joshua Tree National Park, it's no surprise that California is synonymous with this stylish greenery, and there is no better tribute to this plant than Diane's space. 

Among their many benefits, designers admire white kitchens for their versatility – meaning we can accessorize with anything from cacti to cookbooks without them looking out of place. 

'White kitchens will always be timeless because of their neutrality and bright nature. They allow things like hardware, art, furniture [or in this instance, cacti] to be the show stoppers,' comments Cathleen Gruver, the lead designer at Gruver Cooley. 'You can change all these things easily to follow design trends if desired. They also instantly lighten up any space, keeping things fresh and new.'

As Cathleen explains, white kitchens offer a backdrop to any accessory we may choose, but for Hollywood-approved inspiration, Diane Keaton's cacti are the perfect starting point. 

If you've made the purchase, knowing how to water a cactus is vital to keeping the plant healthy, as is ensuring it receives the right amount of sunlight. We love how they look on Diane's kitchen island, but the experts at Baby Bio also recommend placing them in our kitchen window for maximum light exposure. 

'It's no secret that cacti and succulents require lots of sunlight to thrive. In general, most species require a minimum of four to six hours of sunlight per day but are happiest when they receive around ten hours per day,' they say. 

'Place your plants on a south-facing window where they can bask in bright, direct light. This will keep your succulent or cacti healthy during dormant periods and encourage flowering and faster growth during active growing periods.' Or, if we're thinking of adding a cactus to a darker space, we can pick up a faux alternative (via Etsy) below.

Cactuses are hugely popular indoor plants that are simple to look after and come in wide and varied forms. They are relatively simple to propagate and you can grow a cactus from a cutting to create new plants to add to your houseplant collection.

There are a few key steps to get correct when trying to grow a cactus from a cutting. Light and water are really important factors to ensure the cutting you take grows successfully into a new plant. 

Knowing how to water a cactus properly is a key skill to have when looking after these indoor plants. Overwatering is easy to do and tends to be the number one reason that people unfortunately kill their cactus and succulents. We take a look at when and how to grow cactus from a cutting and outline key steps to succeed in getting more of these excellent houseplants.

When to propagate cactuses from cuttings

As well as understanding how to take plant cuttings, it is important to know the right time to try to propagate new plants using this method. The right time of year often depends on the type of cutting you are taking. 

When you want to grow a cactus from a cutting you are taking stem cuttings – this method is the easiest and most common way to propagate cactuses. Any cactuses that are formed of sections, including the popular prickly pear cactus and Christmas cactus, are ideal for stem cuttings. It is important to understand your cactus species and do some research if stem cuttings are ideal, as some cactus types may be better propagating using offshoots.

Kayla Gajdascz, co-founder of Mental Houseplants, says: ‘The best time to take cactus cuttings is during the active growing season, which typically occurs in spring or early summer. At this time, cacti are more likely to root successfully due to the favorable conditions.’

It is recommended not to take cuttings from cactus during a heatwave period, where the plant will already be stressed as it tries to survive, or during the plant dormancy period between October and March.

How to take a cactus cutting

Taking cactus cuttings is a fairly simple procedure. It is important to use clean garden tools to prevent the transmission of any diseases and also the wearing of gloves is advised to keep safe from the cactus spines - or you can use tongs to handle them. You want to be careful when handling the cactus as many are fragile and sections can easily be taken off with a little knock.

Mahfuzur Rahman is the founder of Cactus Query and he outlines four key stages for how to take cuttings from cactus:

1. Select a healthy, disease-free cactus with no signs of stress or damage 
2. Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors. Make a clean, diagonal cut just above a joint or segment on the cactus 
3. Ensure your cutting is at least 3-4 inches long for better chances of success
4. Allow the cutting to air dry for a few days in a dry, shaded area. This helps to callus the cut end, reducing the risk of rotting 

Leaving the cuttings to callus over the cut end is a very important stage in the process of how to grow cactus from cuttings. It helps prevent the cuttings rotting and you want to leave the cut end to air dry until the surface has healed over.

How do you plant a cactus cutting?

The next stage of how to grow a cactus from a cutting is to pot up the cutting once the end has calloused over. Choose a small pot, ensuring it has holes in the bottom for drainage, and fill it with a well-draining compost mix specifically designed for growing cactuses. An example of such a mix is the Espoma Organic Cactus Potting Mix for Cactus, available at Walmart.

Insert the cutting into the soil-dried end first, pushing it deep enough into the soil to allow it to stand upright. Pat the soil gently around the cutting to help stabilize it in the soil. Water the cuttings lightly and then place the pot in a warm and bright windowsill, but not in direct sunlight. Intense direct sunlight at this stage can burn the cutting and potentially kill it.

Only water the cutting when the compost feels dry, as too much water at this stage could cause it to rot. When watering plants in containers, check the soil moisture levels below the surface with your finger. 

It can take 3-4 weeks for the cutting to root and it is important to resist the urge to regularly pull the cutting to check its progress. After two weeks you can gently tug to check for roots and resistance will be a sign that roots have formed. An alternative is to check the base of the pot to see if any roots are showing.

When the cutting has rooted, the time will come to carefully repot the cactus cutting into a pot filled again with specialist cactus compost. Terracotta pots are best for cactuses as their porous nature increases the water and airflow through the soil.

FAQs

Cactuses are commonly thought of as fairly indestructible plants, but there are reasons why cactuses turn brown and can seem unhappy. Often this is down to the two common culprits that cause issues for cactuses – namely too much water and too much direct sunlight.

It goes without saying that actress Emma Roberts has a hectic  Hollywood-appropriate schedule – but she's also created the perfect place to unwind amid the buzz.

The American Horror Story actress, who resides in Beverly Hills, recently treated followers to a look at the space in question – complete with striking (yet therapeutic) cacti and aloe-vera plants, and an array of container plants (including the versatile snake plant) that, experts say, all contribute to an overall 'healing' yard, designed to minimize stress while improving our wellbeing. 

Much like a restorative garden, the presence of eclectic plants, flowers, and trees all characterize 'healing' yards. These easy-to-care-for plants encourage us to spend more outside – consequently improving our mental health, alleviating stress, and lowering blood pressure and cholesterol. And unsurprisingly, plant experts encourage us to get involved. 

How to create a healing yard – inspired by Emma Roberts

Emma's backyard features low-maintenance plants – such as the previously mentioned barrel cacti, aloe vera, and snake plants. 

The actress has also incorporated succulents (that, again, are notably simple to care for) – creating a space that's refreshingly easy to maintain – and consequently encourages us to spend more time outside enjoying our environment. 

However, if we're working with a climate that's slightly less cacti-friendly – plant expert Ellen Mary, who has long studied immunity gardens – recommends Moss and Lamb's Ear (a versatile succulent)  and sweet peas. 

'Stimulating our senses through touch, sight, scent, taste, and hearing can instill a sense of calm within people,' she says while working with Three Spirit.' Moss and Lamb's Ear is great for a sensory space as they are soft, velvety, and easy to grow. Sweet peas are also great for an eruption of fragrant cottage garden blooms in the summer.'

And, while Emma Roberts' yard is expansive in its plant collection, Ellen Mary explains that healing yards are achievable in all homes – even those with a more compact urban garden.

'As long as you choose the plants that provoke feelings of calm and relaxation, creating a place where you feel safe, able to meditate, take time out and enjoy the magic of nature around you, a healing garden is achievable in any size space,' she says.

To elevate our backyard further, Ellen also recommends growing some common herbs that will inject a delightful fragrance and form. She suggests incorporating Oregano, which is full of antioxidants, and Echinacea, which helps stimulate the immune system further. 

For more Emma Roberts-inspired advice, we're looking to Ellen Mary's book, available via Amazon below.

Q: I have a potted cacti display on a windowsill in my home office. A couple of the plants have recently developed unsightly, brown markings. What's caused this, and can I get rid of it?

A: For the most part, cacti are a dream indoor plant due to their undemanding, drought-tolerant nature. The brown markings may, however, be an indicator that something isn't quite right – from watering habits to too much sun. On the other hand, they can also be a natural sign of age, known as corking.

The first step is to identify the problem – and that's where these tips can help.

3 causes of cacti discoloration that can be avoided

Sometimes, the growing conditions are to blame for a cactus changing its hue.

1. Watering problems

First, consider your cactus watering habits, as they may be the root cause of the problem.

As succulents, these plants are susceptible to root rot. This is generally caused by overwatering your cacti. Using well-draining soil, such as this organic potting mix for cacti and succulents from The Valley Garden Store at Amazon, can help to prevent this problem. Root rot can cause a yellow-brown coloring, a mushy texture, and, if you were to break open the cactus, an unpleasant smell.

Note that the risk of root rot doesn't mean you shouldn't water cacti at all. In fact, an under-watered cactus can also develop discoloring, along with a shriveled appearance.

'To maintain healthy cacti, it is recommended to establish a watering schedule,' says Autumn Hilliard-Knapp of Perfect Plants Nursery. 'Water them less frequently but more thoroughly to ensure the water reaches all the way through the soil and is absorbed by the roots.'

Furthermore, it is advisable to use room-temperature water for watering cacti, she adds – otherwise, you may 'shock' the plant.

2. Sunburn

Sunburn can also cause yellowing and brown spots on a cactus. Although these houseplants love plenty of light, if you change the conditions dramatically in a short space of time – for instance, if you move them from a shady shelf to an excessively sunny windowsill – it can cause stress. 

Move the affected plant to a less sunny spot and water it if needed. If the damage is severe, the blemishes are likely to remain on the plant.

3. Plant pests and diseases

Finally, fungal diseases, including rust, can cause discoloration – especially for plants kept outdoors where spores can easily spread.

Fungicides can be used as a preventative measure, or sometimes to tackle mild cases and stop them from spreading to other areas of the plant. However, as with sunburn, severe spots are unlikely to disappear, despite treatment.

It's important to keep an eye out for houseplant pests, too. 'Mealybugs and scale insects are common cactus pests,' says Vineta Jackson, Editor-In-Chief of Grow Happier Plants. 

'I recall dealing with mealybugs on a golden barrel cactus. I wiped the bugs away with a cotton swab dipped in insecticidal soap diluted with water,' she says. 'This treatment quickly eliminated the infestation before it could further compromise the cactus.'

FAQs

Don't forget, cacti and other succulents can be propagated. So, if your plant's discoloration is beyond repair (which is, sadly, often the case), but there are still green, healthy sections left, try taking cuttings. It's surprisingly simple, as long as you stay clear of the common houseplant propagation mistakes.

As a houseplant expert, I'm often asked how to water a cactus. After all, it's one of those plants that looks happy, until suddenly it's shrivelled, has yellowing fluffy patches, has become lopsided overnight, or (worst case) the top part has flopped over and no longer seems to be attached to the roots. 

I've been caught out myself a few times recently, losing cacti that I assumed were pretty indestructible; I'd even repotted a cactus and thought I'd got the watering regime right, yet lost the plant shortly afterwards.

It turns out that a plant that is supposedly low maintenance can throw some real curve balls. And at the back of your mind you know the decline of your cactus is probably linked to how you've been watering it, topping up too often when you water the rest of your indoor plants. Sound familiar?

Overwatering is so easy to do, and is one of the quickest ways to kill a cactus plant. So, below, I list cactus-watering best practice, and the most common watering mistakes to avoid if you want to keep your cacti thriving.

Do you water a cactus from the top or bottom?

There are several different methods for watering cacti, but experts agree the best way is deep watering. During each watering, soak the soil thoroughly until water starts draining out from the pot’s drainage holes. 

'This is known as the “soak and dry” method,' says Tatyana Zhuk, plant expert at NatureID. 'Always check the growing medium and water your plant only when the topsoil dries out. Fully soak the growing medium and wait for the water to drain out of the drainage hole. Make sure you remove any pooled water to protect your cactus from the risk of fungal disease.'

Tatyana suggests providing your plant with good drainage to make watering easier by buying a potting mix formulated for cacti; we like this MiracleGro mix from Amazon or make your own combo with any light, loose soil and perlite.

Another popular watering method is placing the cacti pot on a saucer filled with water, allowing the plant to take in as much moisture as it needs through the roots. This is known as 'bottom watering'. Be sure to drain away any excess water as leaving cacti roots in standing water is never a good idea.

Try watering bottles (these are Amazon's best buys) with bendy nozzles or cans with slender spouts (this is Amazon's top buy) that let you direct the water exactly where you want it to prevent your plant from rotting.

How often to water a cactus?

Knowing how often and when you should water your plants is key to a cactus' survival, but this depends on many factors: 

Its position

Indoor cacti require less watering than outdoor varieties because their growing conditions are different. A cactus plant’s water requirements also depend on factors like temperature, light and drainage.

Its size

Smaller cacti need less water than bigger ones. On the other hand, those with thinner leaves require more water than a desert cactus with thick modified leaves or stems.

Its age

The age of your plant is also a determining factor. Younger cacti are usually more demanding and need water more often to support their growth.

This means that watering cacti can be a stressful business. 

'We know cacti need water because they're plants, but at the same time we've been told not to give them too much water because they're from the desert. The truth is that cacti need regular watering, they just have a special ability to survive drought,' according to the plant experts at West Coast Gardens. 

So if you want your cacti to flourish a proper watering schedule is important.

It's hard to pin down specifics but generally:

Small to medium-sized indoor cacti will typically need to be watered every 10 days or more during spring or summer months, and every 4 to 6 weeks during winter. 

Make sure you study care guides for each new cactus plant you buy so you're up to speed. Getting to know the type of cactus will help you decide how much water it needs, and the same applies when it comes to watering succulents too.

Does location affect the watering needs of my cactus?

As we mentioned above, position is definitely an important to factor that influences how and when you water your cactus. 

Cacti in direct sunlight versus those positioned in the shade will have different watering needs. When plants are in direct sunlight, the soil tends to dry out quicker, which means they require more watering. Cacti in the shade or partially lighted areas can retain soil moisture for much longer.

In a sunny location that offers cacti plants plenty of heat during the day, your cactus will need watering every week. The only rule is to make sure the soil is dry between waterings. This will stop the roots and lower edges of the plant from rotting. 

Temperature and humidity also contribute to your cactus plant’s watering needs. High temperatures make the soil dry out faster, while colder temperatures help the soil to retain moisture. 

How long can cacti go without water?

If you are wondering how long cacti can go without water it depends on the variety and how large the plant is. Some cacti thrive with infrequent watering while others such as the Christmas cactus need a more consistent watering schedule.

'Cacti are used to dry spells in their natural habitats, so they can tolerate at least a month-long drought with some varieties withstanding up to three months,' says Tatyana Zhuk. 'However, it doesn’t mean you should neglect your plant and forget about watering it. Lack of water stops your plant from thriving.'

The main problem when it comes watering a cactus is that we care for cacti in the same way as we care for the rest of our indoor plants, but it's not a case of one size fits all. Unlike lush and leafy indoor plants that come from tropical rainforests, cacti are from arid or semi-arid climates and store water in their trunks, which allows them to go weeks without water. 

'Watering cacti doesn’t have to be difficult,' says Mo Bhula of The Botanical Archive. 'You can tell when your cactus needs water as the flesh of the cacti will start to wrinkle slightly. It’s best to be consistent with watering so this doesn’t happen.'

Then the trick is to not water again until the entire pot is dry. Less is more when it comes to watering cacti.

FAQs

Last word: cacti do not tolerate cold water well, so always make sure you use room temperature water to avoid shocking the plant.

A key consideration when choosing the best types of dahlias is knowing they will last as long as possible. You need to make sure your favorites are up to the task of producing long-flowering displays. 

There are over 40 species and thousands of dahlia varieties, plus countless hybrids. But if you are looking to grow dahlias specifically for their staying power, choose pompon dahlias, small and miniature ball breeds, and compact cactus varieties. Not only are these perfectly suited to gardens of any size, they are the best options for making the flowering season last longer. 

Extending the season has a lot to do with making things trickier for bees. Single-flowered dahlias, with a few rows of petals around a yellow eye, are easy for bees – when they land, the pollen is right there, so they collect it and pollinate the flower at the same time. At that point, flowers start to fade. By contrast, dahlia flowers packed with petals are harder for the bees to pollinate. Small and miniature ball and pompon varieties (and cactus types with tube-like shapes) are a struggle to pollinate so they last longer, although the bees do get there in the end!

16 types of dahlias to try

As well as needing dahlia displays that last for months, you should look for dahlias that fit in with other flowers and bloom well into the fall. Consider varieties that are not overdominant and blend well with other plants in mixed flower bed ideas and border arrangements. 

Below are some of the best dahlias in a selection of pompon styles, plus small and miniature ball and cactus varieties. They complement other flowers in mixed arrangements and are particularly long flowering. 

• Shop dahlias at Amazon
• Shop dahlias at Burpee
• Shop dahlias at Nature Hills

1. Dahlia ‘Cornel’  

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 4ft
• Good for: Large patio pots

‘Cornel’ is one of the most long-lasting pompon dahlias. It has rich, velvety, cherry red flowers that are 4in across. These are slightly darker in the center and tightly packed with petals. This is one of the dahlia varieties that is especially productive, reliable and weather resistant.

If you want to grow dahlias in pots, this one works well in large patio tubs, as well as planted in mixed borders. It is also great for cutting. Partner with bronze-leaved castor oil plants or variegated miscanthus.

2. Dahlia ‘Franz Kafka’ 

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 32in 
• Good for: Cottage gardens

This pompon dahlia forms flower heads like slightly flattened spheres 2-3in across. The shell-like lilac pink petals are tightly packed, beautifully arranged and reward close inspection.

‘Franz Kafka’ is one of the best dahlias for mixed borders and patio pots. It is also amongst the best cottage garden plants you can grow, and capable of lovely cut flowers. Partners well with pastel roses and silver foliage.

3. Dahlia ‘Kasasagi’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlia
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 32in
• Good for: Sunflower themes

If you’re after a dahlia for mixed borders and cutting gardens, ‘Kasasagi’ (available at Etsy) is an ideal pompon variety. It sparkles in a sunny border and partners well with crocosmias and kniphofias. If you grow sunflowers, this is also a smart dahlia to grow alongside small-flowered helianthus.

Uniquely bicoloured 2in flowers have bright yellow centers. Each small floret matures to bright yellow with rich orange backs and edges, all held on orange-tinted stems.

4. Dahlia ‘Moor Place’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 40in
• Good for: Exhibitions, cutting gardens

Dahlia ‘Moor Place’ is an exceptionally productive variety. It features small 2in flowers in a sumptuous wine-purple shade. This is slightly darker in the center, with the petals rolling back right under the flower to make an elegant symmetrical shape.

This is one of the most striking dahlia varieties and partners well with pale blue larkspur and foamy white aruncus. Remember to deadhead dahlias promptly so fading flowers don’t detract from its rich display.

5. Dahlia ‘Nuland’s Josephine’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 3ft
• Good for: Mixed borders

For gardeners with an eye on more adventurous garden color schemes, ‘Nuland’s Josephine’ is a bold and unique pompon dahlia. Its tones have been likened to rhubarb and custard. It is one of the best dahlias for mixed borders, subtle dahlia combinations and exhibitions. 

Flowers are three inches in diameter. Each shell-shaped floret is a rich rose wine shade on the outside and peachy gold on the inside. It partners well with other pinks and peachy shades, or planted in front of a silver-leaved shrub.

6. Dahlia ‘Rhonda Suzanne’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 4ft
• Good for: Cutting gardens

Another of the most dazzling dahlia varieties for perennial sunflowers in lemony shades, ‘Rhonda Suzanne’ AGM also works well alongside other purple plants and those with silver foliage. It looks stunning in mixed borders and cutting gardens, and especially pretty in small posies.  

This dahlia has neat little 2in green-eyed flowers, with florets in a tight symmetrical pattern. They are a slightly variable blend of rich purple and white. Expect variations in the richness of the purple, depending on the weather and rainfall.

7. Dahlia ‘Small World’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft
• Good for: Grasses, meadow styles

‘Small World’ AGM (available at Walmart) is exceptionally productive over a long period. For those interested in white garden ideas, this is one of the best dahlias you can grow. It looks especially lovely partnered with green-leaved grasses and purple Michaelmas daisies.

Its brilliant white ball-shaped flowers are lemony in the centers. The stems are long and strong and the flowers are weatherproof. Deadhead promptly as the browning petals can detract from the pale flowers.

8. Dahlia ‘Willo’s Borealis’ 

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 4ft 
• Good for: Asters, pompon themes

The neat pompons of ‘Willo’s Borealis’ are filled with rich lavender florets. These are dark in the center at first, developing a yellow eye as flowers mature. Pinch once to prompt a flurry of long-stemmed blooms.

This is a great dahlia variety for themed displays of different pompon breeds, cutting gardens and exhibitions. Partner with other pompon varieties in harmonious shades, such as ‘Franz Kafka’ and ‘Willo’s Violet’, plus yellow perennial asters.

9. Dahlia ‘Willo’s Violet’

• Type: Long-lasting pompon dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 4ft
• Good for: Pink and purple themes

‘Willo’s Violet’ is another one of the best perennials you can grow for exhibitions, as well as for themed displays of pompon dahlias. It is also another one of the best types of dahlias you can grow for cutting. 

It is similar to ‘Willo’s Borealis’, but a noticeably darker and richer shade with a few flashes of white at its heart. Partners well with other pompons in harmonious shades, such as ‘Franz Kafka’ and yellow perennial asters.

10. Dahlia ‘Josudi Andromeda’

• Type: Long-lasting miniature cactus dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft 
• Good for: Mixed borders

Perfect for mixed borders and cutting garden flowers, ‘Josudi Andromeda’ is ideal if you fancy growing miniature cactus breeds. This unusually strong-growing variety is best pinched out twice to promote prolific flowering.

The startling blushed pink 2in flowers tend to richer tones in the center and are reminiscent of sea anemones. Its stems are long, but strong enough to support the flowers. This dahlia makes an appealing contrast with other pompons and ball dahlias.

11. Dahlia ‘Weston Pirate’

• Type: Long-lasting miniature cactus dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft
• Good for: Red floral themes 

If you want to plant a cottage garden border, ‘Weston Pirate’ AGM is amongst the most dramatic miniature cactus breeds. These dahlia varieties have rich, fiery red flowers like exploding fireworks. The 3-4in flowers look especially good against the dark green foliage.

Also ideal for mixed borders, dahlia borders and shows, they partner well with pompon or ball dahlias in similar shades – the contrast in shapes is very effective. Cut for the house or deadhead regularly.

12. Dahlia ‘Weston Spanish Dancer’

• Type: Long-lasting miniature cactus dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8 
• Height: 3ft 
• Good for: Tropical themes

Another of the best dahlias for two-toned displays, ‘Weston Spanish Dancer’ works equally well as a specimen flower and as part of a broader mixed or dahlia border. Partners beautifully with plants that have bronze foliage or intense purple blooms. Just make sure it is well supported. 

This startling variety has eye-catching yellow and scarlet flowers, with heads 3-4in in diameter. The lower half of each tubular floret is bright yellow, while a few red streaks mark the transition to pointed red tips.

13. Dahlia ‘Blyton Softer Gleam’

• Type: Small ball dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft 
• Good for: Chrysanthemum pairings 

With its soft, intriguing palette, ‘Blyton Softer Gleam’ is one of the ball dahlia varieties that seems most confused about what color it is, falling somewhere between peach and gold. The effect is stunning, though.  

Coral orange as flowers open, it matures with yellow tones. The 4in flowers are packed with neat florets and fit well into a fall-infused color theme. Pairs well with hardy chrysanthemums, perennial asters and other dahlias in fall shades. Best pinched out at 12in in height.

14. Dahlia ‘Clearview Daniel’

• Type: Small ball dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft
• Good for: bronze and yellow themes 

‘Clearview Daniel’ is a classically rounded, 4in ball-shaped flower in a pure lemon yellow. This is a striking American variety which is making its mark on both sides of the Atlantic. It is an unusually strong growing variety with stout stems, so it’s great in exposed situations. 

It is one of the best dahlias for a small backyard, creating long-lasting displays in mixed and dahlia borders, as well as shows. Pairs especially well with dahlias that have bronze leaves, such as the Bishop Series.

15. Dahlia ‘Hamari Rose’

• Type: Miniature ball dahlias
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 4-5ft 
• Good for: Rose pairings 

Creating the perfect complement to long-season roses and bronze-leaved cannas, ‘Hamari Rose’ is one of the best dahlias for long-lasting mini ball blooms. It is perfect if you are planning a cut flower garden, and also looks great in mixed borders and dahlia borders.

Elegant, neatly arranged, 3-4in flowers have florets in rose pink, fading towards white at the edges. At the center, florets are a richer shade with a metallic or coppery look. Cut for the house, or deadhead regularly.

16. Dahlia ‘Jomanda’ 

• Type: Miniature ball dahlias 
• Hardiness: USDA Z8
• Height: 5ft 
• Good for: Salvia pairings
  

Rounding off our selection of the best dahlias for long-lasting floral displays is this terracotta treat. ‘Jomanda’ is a mini ball variety that produces slightly rusty colored orange flowers (3-4in). They fit well into fall tones and are held on dark stems that make an attractive contrast.

For those who like to grow salvias, this dahlia is an ideal pairing for the deeper blue varieties. It also partners well with perennial asters and aconitums. Lovely in mixed borders, dahlia borders and cutting gardens.

Protecting dahlias from the first frosts of the fall is a sure way of extending the flowering season. In fact, it is often the early morning sun that does the damage, as foliage with frost on it warms up too quickly. 

When you plant dahlias, choose a site that is protected from the early sun (and easterly winds) as this is a big help to ensure these stunning blooms can flower for as long as possible. 

The Easter cactus adds a little seasonal spring color to your home with its gorgeous exotic looking blooms. The flowers come in an array of shades to choose from including various tones of pink and red, as well as pure white.

The correct name for Easter cactus is Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri. They are from a different family to the more well-known Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti, which are members of the Schlumbergera family - the similar appearance of these two plants often leaves plant parents confused over whether they have Thanksigiving cactus or Christmas cactus. However, Easter cacti are much easier to identify, specifically blooming from late winter into early spring. And although all three of these cacti varieties have similar leaves, you can also identify an Easter cactus by their round edges.

Learning to grow Easter cactus is straightforward, making it a great plant for beginners and experienced plant growers alike. Plus, their blooms are long-lasting, making them a worthwhile addition to your collection of indoor flowering plants. Here, plant experts share some top tips to keep in mind when caring for an Easter cactus.

5 expert tips for growing an Easter cactus

Once you get the hang of it, nailing how to grow Easter cactus is easy. Give your Easter cactus the conditions it likes and you will soon be rewarded with plenty of stunning flowers to celebrate the season, just like growing a Christmas cactus.

1. Place your Easter cactus somewhere bright

Find a place in your home for your Easter cactus where it will be exposed to plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. A lack of light is often the cause behind both an Easter cactus and Christmas cactus not blooming.

You should likewise avoid placing them somewhere in direct sunlight, however, as this may cause leaf scorch.

Easter cactus plants love a little humidity (they will make a good bathroom plant), so if the air in your home is dry and you don't have a humidifier try placing your plant on a pebble tray for plants, then add a little water to it. This will help to moisten the air around the plant through evaporation. Alternatively, try another method to increase humidity for indoor plants - like using this plant mister from Amazon.

Along the same lines, a room temperature around 64°F is ideal for these plants. Make sure there's also plenty of air circulation for your Easter cactus and keep it away from any drafts or heat sources.

2. Allow your Easter cactus to dry out between watering

Easter cacti are a type of indoor succulent, so you only need to water them when the soil feels dry to touch. Once dry, water thoroughly until the water begins to drain from the bottom.

You should also check that the saucer they're standing in doesn't collect water - it could lead to houseplant root rot.

For this reason, indoor plant expert Vladan Nikolic suggests: 'Choose pots with functional drainage holes, so any excess water can run out of the holes.' These indoor planters from Amazon are a good choice.

'The exact watering schedule will depend on environmental factors, such as temperature, humidity, and airflow,' Vladan points out. 'To tell if it needs watering, take a chopstick and stick it all the way to the bottom of the pot. Pull it out and if there’s no soil stuck to the chopstick, your Easter cactus is thirsty and you should water it,' he advises.

Alternatively, you can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify the moisture levels in your Easter cactus' soil.

3. Use a well-draining potting soil for your Easter cactus

Getting the right soil type is a key element of how to grow Easter cactus. If they're going to thrive, Easter cactus like good quality porous soil that allows plenty of air to circulate around their roots, such as a cactus or succulent potting mix (from Amazon).

'Easter cactus plants have certain requirements when it comes to soil,' says Vladan. 'They like well-draining, aerated soil, which is important for root health.'

A good potting mix for Easter cacti should contain about two-thirds of store-bought potting compost and one-third of amendments, such as perlite or coco coir, to keep the soil light and airy. Using these ingredients, you can make your own succulent potting mix for your Easter cactus.

4. Fertilize your Easter cactus to replenish nutrients

Easter cactus plants thrive with regular fertilization. Once the plant has finished blooming, apply a feed once a month until you need to prepare it for blooming again, at which point you stop fertilizing your plant.

'Apply a diluted liquid succulent fertilizer (from Amazon) every two weeks during the spring and summer months, then stop fertilizing in fall and winter,' says Lindsey Hyland, plant expert from Urban Organic Yield. 'Use a balanced fertilizer diluted to half strength once a month during the growing season, and do not fertilize during winter when the plant is dormant.'

You can also keep the soil topped up by refreshing the compost regularly to provide a fresh source of essential plant nutrients.

5. Provide your Easter cactus with a period of darkness before blooming

This beautiful plant is grown for its vibrant flowers, so it's essential to provide the Easter cactus with everything it needs in order for it to bloom profusely. Typically the Easter cactus flowers in late winter to early spring, and they require long nights and cool temperatures before blooming.

'Easter cactus require 12 hours of darkness a day and cool temperatures in order to flower,' says Vladan Nikolic. 'They bloom after approximately 8-12 weeks of short days, in late winter or early spring.'

This is the same method used to get a Christmas cactus to bloom. If the period of darkness is interrupted, even for short intervals, the plant might drop buds. It can also drop buds due to drafts or changes in temperature.

'The key components for getting Easter cactus plants to bloom is to give them enough darkness and to keep them in a stable environment,' says Vladan. 'This means making sure they are not exposed to any drastic environmental fluctuations.'

FAQs

Do you need to prune an Easter cactus?

Pruning a key element of how to grow an Easter cactus successfully, especially if you want more flowers. Deadheading indoor flowering plants can help your Easter cactus push out another round of blooms during its spring blooming period. Meanwhile after your Easter cactus finishes flowering in spring it's a good idea to prune it. You don't have to do this but it will help reblooming next year. Neatly snap off the uppermost leaf pad at the joint with your fingers or alternatively you can use essential pruning tools or even these sharp scissors from Walmart.

'When the flowering finishes, you can also prune your Easter cactus to encourage branching,' says indoor plant expert Vladan Nikolic. 'Use sharp pruning shears or a knife to cut the plant where two branch sections connect. Your plant will then produce 1-2 new shoots from the place where it was cut, which will promote branching.'

What are these bugs on my Easter cactus?

The Easter cactus is a relatively easy-going plant but sometimes it can be affected by common houseplant pests, such as spider mites and fungus gnats. Mealybugs and other scale insects can also trouble your Easter cactus. If you see cottony white masses on the cactus pads these are mealybugs, while scale forms a series of oval bumps. A weekly application of a homemade bug spray loaded with neem oil should help get rid of them.

Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter cacti are not the only flowering cacti you can grow in your home. Prickly pear is another popular cactus with blooms, which typically flowers into summer - perfect for in between the blooming period of the other plants. No matter which cacti or succulents you choose to grow, however, take care to avoid common succulent mistakes.

Knowing how to repot a cactus properly is an important part of caring for these prickly houseplants. Cacti are one of the best indoor plants to grow, and for very good reasons. These desert plants have unique, sculpture-like shapes and require minimal care, provided they get plenty of light.

Cacti are slow-growing and won't need repotting often. However, if the time has come to give your cactus a bigger pot, there are a few important rules to follow to make sure your indoor plant thrives in its new container. 

How to repot a cactus in 5 simple steps

Houseplant experts identify the key steps for repotting a cactus successfully, so you can keep these prickly specimens in the best of health. 

1. Get your supplies

Before you begin repotting your cactus, gather all the tools and supplies you will need. Sonja Detrinidad, the owner of Partly Sunny Projects – an online plant shop specializing in cacti, succulents, and air plants – recommends the following supplies:

• A new pot
• Cactus potting mix (available at Amazon)
• A top dressing (optional)
• A thick pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands
• Kitchen tongs or tweezers for smaller cacti

2. Prepare the potting mix

'Cacti need a well-draining potting mix that contains a combination of soil and coarse materials such as perlite or sand,' says Vladan Nikolic, a houseplant expert at Mr. Houseplant. 'You can purchase a pre-made cactus potting mix or make your own by mixing equal parts potting soil, perlite, and coarse sand.' 

You can even try making your own cactus potting mix.

3. Remove the cactus from its old pot

Sonja highly recommends taking extra steps to protect your hands when repotting a cactus: 'Unless you are the proud owner of Kevlar gloves [try Amazon] that resist puncture, you will need something to serve as a barrier between you and the pokies that adorn your plant. I like kitchen tongs personally. 

'You can use an old towel to wrap around the plant, and I have even used an empty plastic nursery pot to serve as a container to drop the cactus into and I could then position the cactus by using that pot to maneuver the plant into place.'

Vladan recommends using 'a piece of cardboard to handle the cactus. Wrap it around the base of the cactus and gently lift it out of the pot. If you’re having trouble taking it out, use a butter knife to separate the soil from the edges of the pot.' 

Once you've removed the cactus, gently break apart the root ball if the soil is compacted. 'You may even want to remove all the soil possible to get consistent soil medium completely around your plant,' says Sonja.

4. Repot your cactus

Place a layer of your cactus mix at the bottom of the new pot. Position your plant in the new home, holding it with your grabber of choice and filling the pot up to 1in from the top of the pot. Gently and carefully tamp down the soil around the plant.

When decorating with plants, a top dressing such as small pebbles or colored stones can give the overall aesthetic a boost. 'While top dressing is not necessary, it does finish off the look – think of it like jewelry for your plant,' says Sonja.

This decorative gravel from Amazon is ideal for adding to the top of your cactus pot. It's made up of lots of small stones and is available in a wide range of colors including white, black, gray and mixed. 

5. Water, but not right away

Most houseplants should be watered right after you've finished repotting, but the process is different for these easy indoor plants. 

Scott Ingram, the houseplant expert at Two Gloves, recommends waiting 'around a week until the soil has settled and the cactus has adjusted to its new pot.' 

How do you know when it's time to repot your cactus?

Sonja Detrinidad advises that 'typically you’ll want your plant to be in proportion to the size of the pot.' If the cactus is falling over, it's definitely too big for its current pot. The same rules apply when repotting succulents, too. 

You may also want to repot if you are having issues with drainage. These will start happening if the cactus is so rootbound that water is no longer freely draining from its pot.

Finally, Sonja points out that 'newly purchased cacti should also be repotted, since the soil used to grow them in nurseries may not be the best soil for the home hobbyist.'

How often should you repot a cactus?

Scott Ingram advises that cacti should be repotted 'every 3-4 years, or whenever the roots reach the side of the pot and start showing through the drainage holes. This prevents the cactus from becoming pot-bound. 

'At this point, you should move the cactus to a larger pot. This should be done during the active growing period (early to mid-spring) to ensure the plant has the energy to recover.'

Do you need to use special soil when repotting a cactus?

Yes, it is important to use a well-draining potting mix specifically formulated for cacti. Vladan Nikolic explains that this helps to ensure that the soil drains well and does not retain too much moisture.

Did you know that you can root Christmas cactus cuttings in water to create brand new plants? Experts agree that it's the easiest – and in our opinion, most fun – way to do so. By getting Christmas cactus to root in water, you can watch the new roots form, then plant them into soil two to three weeks later.

I'm a big fan of indoor plants, and love growing a Christmas cactus, but hadn't rooted them in water before. Knowing how to propagate Christmas cactus successfully does require some careful prep.

You will also need to know when to water your Christmas cactus, too, to ensure water remains fresh and the levels sufficient. So, I asked plant expert Vladan Nikolic, the founder of Mr Houseplant for his expertise. This is what he advises.

Will a Christmas cactus root in water? 

'Yes, a Christmas Cactus can root in water,' affirms Vlandan. 'The reason why cacti can root in water but die in overwatered soil is because of oxygen availability. Roots need oxygen, and it's easily available in water.

'In soil, however, there is a lot of competition for oxygen. Besides roots, there are many bacteria and fungi that use the oxygen. Water generally doesn't contain as many bacteria and fungi as soil, so the competition for oxygen is lower.

'As the oxygen in soil is being used by these microorganisms, the amount of oxygen goes down, and a different type of bacteria and fungi start developing – anaerobic bacteria.'

This type of bacteria can lead to root rot and eventually kill your plant, so rooting in water is a great option.

How to root a Christmas cactus in water

As Vladan says, and I have since discovered, rooting Christmas cactus in water is easy. All you need is a small, sharp knife or pruning snips, such as these from Amazon; and a small glass vase - these vintage-style bud vases from Amazon are ideal and will look stylish on a window ledge or shelf.

Then follow these simple steps:

1. Trim the stem of the Christmas cactus cutting. Use your knife to take a Y-shaped cutting that has a minimum of two segments.
2. Next, put pebbles or small, round stones into your chosen vase in a layer around 2in deep, then cover with water.
3. Add the cutting to the vase so that only the cut tip to two nodes down are in the water. If you submerge your plant too much it won't root healthily.
4. Place your vase in a bright (but not sun-scorched) spot.
5. Monitor water levels. The water will be drunk by the cutting and will evaporate in a heated room, so do keep an eye on it, topping it up with fresh water as necessary. Also ensure the water stays healthy; if it starts to develop algae, refresh it. It's a good idea to change it at least once a week.
6. Next, you can move on to repotting your Christmas cactus, or you can continue to grow it in water, though you may need to swap it to a larger container as it grows. You can repot your Christmas cactus once roots have formed that are as long as the cutting itself. This can take between three and six weeks. Put the cuttings into a good quality potting mix, combined with a little compost and sand.

FAQs

Is it better to propagate Christmas cactus in soil or water?

It all comes down to personal preference, as both methods have pros and cons. However, Vladan Nikolic, the founder of Mr Houseplant, suggests that water propagation is easier for beginners because there is less to think about. You simply place the cutting in water and leave it to root. Though, he notes that this method can come with its downsides.

'The con is that the transition from water to soil might not be successful,' he says.

'If rooting in the soil, you're already growing the plant in its long-term environment, there is no adjustment necessary. However, it is more difficult, as it requires proper watering and potting mix, so it requires a bit of skill.'

To propagate in soil, insert around one quarter of your dried cutting into the soil before placing the pot in a well-lit area avoiding direct sunlight. Water your cutting sparingly to prevent rotting at first, only increasing watering as the plant develops. Once your plant displays signs of growth, such as small red buds on the end of stems, it may be time to repot a Christmas cactus and move the new plant to loose potting soil with a little compost. It can take anywhere between three and 12 weeks for a cutting to take root, however, so patience is needed.

When is the best time to propagate a Christmas cactus?

The best time to propagate a Christmas cactus is when the parent plant has finished blooming and the flowers have fallen away. Late spring and early summer is the best time to take the cuttings, as this also allows plenty of time for fresh cuttings to take root before the holiday gift-giving period.

What's more, taking cuttings and propagating a Christmas cactus at this time should make sure that the new plants are begging to bloom themselves by Christmas, making them look nicer when gifted.

Your Christmas cactus should root after two to three weeks, though, it can take longer in some cases, and it won't be ready for repotting for some six weeks, when the roots are as long as the cutting. To make sure your new plant thrives, you can get clued up on the top Christmas cactus mistakes to avoid, plus understand the exact conditions your Christmas cactus needs to bloom year after year.

Christmas cacti can quickly outgrow their containers when looked after correctly. To keep yours a manageable size, and to encourage blooming in future, learning how to prune a Christmas cactus is the best option.

Christmas cactus care is relatively simple. These Christmas plants are low-maintenance and don't often require pruning. However, they can sometimes benefit from a quick trim to maintain them when their tendrils become too long for your liking. 'Pruning a Christmas cactus will help maintain size, encourage new growth and increase the airflow. This will allow the main branches to grow outward,' explains Tammy Sons, horticulturist and CEO of TN Nurseries.

Luckily, it's fairly straightforward to cut back unruly growth on these plants. Doing so can even help make a Christmas cactus bloom again, so it's worth getting to grips with how to do it properly. Here, experts share all you need to know about pruning a Christmas cactus.

How to prune a Christmas cactus

Pruning or trimming a Christmas cactus is a simple task made even easier by the plant's unique, chain-like stem structure that provides natural breaks.

'Clip off where two stem segments connect,' says Tammy. 'Stay in the green, soft-stemmed leafy sections and avoid cutting into woody, leafless stems.'

You should use essential pruning tools to trim your Christmas cactus, like these gardening scissors from Amazon. 'I usually stick to removing two or three segments per stem, but if you want to rein in the size a bit, you can go up to a third of the plant each year without any issues,' says plant expert and founder at Tree Menders, Evan Torchio.

It's a common pruning mistake to remove more than a third of a plant at a time. This can cause a plant to go into shock and stunt growth, among other issues, often hindering flower development.

When pruning a healthy plant, experts say to keep some of the cuttings to propagate your Christmas cactus. 'They are easy to take cuttings from to create new plants. You break off a section of the stem structure with two or three nodes, then root that in potting soil,' explains horticulture expert Carol Michel.

When to prune a Christmas cactus

Knowing when to prune a Christmas cactus is just as important as knowing how to. Getting the timing right ensures the plant recovers from the loss of foliage and can even help make a Christmas cactus bloom more impressively the following season.

'The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right before it finishes blooming. This usually occurs in January or February,' says Tammy.

After the blooming period, Christmas cacti begin to reserve energy for their growth period; pruning during this growth period encourages the growth of fresh stems that will maintain the plant's shape, resulting in a bushy plant rather than a trailing, indoor hanging plant.

Of course, another reason you might be looking to prune your Christmas cactus is if it has discolored, or if your Christmas cactus leaves have turned limp beyond return. Trimming these stems back to the base will help breathe new life into your plant. In this case, your Christmas cactus can be cut back at any time of year, so long as you take care not to remove more than a third of the plant at a time.

FAQs

What to do if you over-prune a Christmas cactus

The good thing to know is that it's hard to over-prune a Christmas cactus, as these hardy plants are fast-growing indoor plants and will bounce back quite quickly. However, you should be aware that removing more than a third of the plant at one time can negatively impact the plant's health. If this has happened, you should provide optimal care to rejuvenate the health of your Christmas cactus and encourage it to grow. This includes providing bright, indirect light, moderate watering, and even fertilizing your Christmas cactus when it's actively growing - this succulent fertilizer from Amazon is a good choice.

Should I deadhead my Christmas cactus?

It's a good idea to deadhead a Christmas cactus once it has finished blooming after the festive period to encourage further plant growth. The flowers will begin to shrivel up and dry out as the blooming period comes to an end. This is a good sign to start deadheading your plant – just make sure to leave flowers still in bloom alone.

You should prune your Christmas cactus to prevent leggy growth and to maintain its size. However, be aware that your plant also might reach a point where you need to repot your Christmas cactus. As with other houseplants, as your Christmas cactus gets bigger, you will need to move it into a larger container. This will prevent it from becoming pot-bound and encourage it to continue growing healthily.

Every year homeowners ask 'Are poinsettias poisonous to cats and dogs?' and often receive a range of responses that aren't definitive.  

If you have pets and have recently bought a poinsettia or been gifted one, then you need to know the answer as to whether poinsettias are likely to cause harm to your beloved cats or dogs.

Caring for a poinsettia includes putting it in the right position, but in doing so, you need to know whether to keep them out of your pets' reach. Because the last thing you want is to gift or display this beautiful plant and risk it harming pets.

To get to the bottom of this problem, we have asked leading experts whether poinsettias are poisonous to cats and dogs and share their responses with you.

Are poinsettias poisonous to cats and dogs? 

One of the best Christmas plants, poinsettias are an icon of the holiday season. They are often incorporated into Christmas decor ideas and are also popular gifts. But are they going to harm your pets?

‘No, poinsettias are not poisonous to cats, dogs or humans,' says Jim Faust, associate professor of floriculture physiology at Clemson University, South Carolina, who has been studying poinsettias for nearly four decades. 'I’ve eaten a few – they don’t taste great.'

On the whole, the expert consensus is that poinsettias are not poisonous to cats or dogs – or at least not to a concerning degree.

That sounds like good news for poinsettia lovers. But just to be certain, we also asked Gail Pabst from the National Garden Bureau, a leading authority on horticultural matters. ‘Many people still think that poinsettias are poisonous to cats, dogs, and people, but they are definitely not, as proven in many tests.' 

However, while poinsettias are one of the best pet-friendly houseplants, if your cat or dog is partial to munching on plants then it's always wise to position them out of reach.

Now all you need to worry about choosing the best poinsettias for Christmas.

Can you have a poinsettia with a dog?

Yes, you can have a poinsettia with a dog. Poinsettias are not very poisonous and as such, there is no reason why you can't have a poinsettia with a dog. If your dog is often interested in your houseplants, however, it is worth positioning your poinsettia out of their reach to keep your plant save and minimize mess.

How poisonous is a poinsettia?

A poinsettia is not very poisonous at all. 

'Although other members of the spurge family (Euphorbiaceae) have highly toxic sap, the poinsettia's own toxicity is quite mild,' says gardening expert Mick Lavelle.

'To put this in context, an average eight-year-old child would have to eat around 500 leaves to accumulate harmful levels of these toxins.'

When adding indoor plants to your home, it is always important that you check whether it is safe for your pets – for example 'are Christmas cactus poisonous to cats and dogs?'

What to do if a dog eats poinsettia?

If your dog or cat does eat poinsettia, it is unlikely to do them any severe harm. However, keep an eye on them, and if you notice any symptoms contact your vet immediately. 

Founder of Houseplant Authority Naomi Robinson warns that ingesting poinsettias may cause mild side effects to some pets.

'Poinsettias are slightly toxic to cats and dogs, so if your pet ingests some of this plant, you may see some effects such as drooling, vomiting, or diarrhea,' she says. 

‘Their milky sap can also lead to some irritation if it touches your pet's skin or eyes. But given that the effects of ingestion or exposure are usually not severe, it's rare for your cat or dog to require a visit to the vet unless these issues persist.’

If you're wondering 'are Christmas cactus poisonous to cats and dogs?', then you've come to the right place – we've asked the experts to find out whether your Christmas cactus is a safe addition to your home.

Schlumbergera, better known as Christmas cactus, blooms from November through to January, bringing a much-needed burst of color and life to a winter interior. A firm festive favorite, their flowers come in an array of dazzling shades from white and blush pink, to fuchsia, orange, and red. It is no surprise, then, that homeowners across the country have been learning how to grow Christmas cactus – if you are thinking about jumping on the trend, then it is important to know whether they are safe to grow around your cats and dogs.

Are Christmas cactus poisonous to cats and dogs?

No, a Christmas cactus is not poisonous to cats and dogs – in fact, they are among the best pet-friendly houseplants.

According to the ASPCA these showy succulents are non-toxic making them perfectly safe for pet-friendly homes. What’s even better is that unlike many other cacti they don’t have any harmful spikes, so they pose very little problem wherever you choose to display them.

If you are also wondering whether poinsettia is poisonous to cats and dogs, then you'll be glad to know that they are not, either – why not pair poinsettia with your Christmas cactus to create the perfect festive display?

How to keep cats and dogs away from Christmas cactus

Christmas cactus have quickly become one of the best indoor plants, so it is a relief for pet owners to discover that the Christmas cactus is pet-friendly. ‘They are considered non-toxic, making them safe to keep around curious cats and dogs. However, the best practice is to keep houseplants out of reach of small children and curious pets just in case,’ says Eliza Blank of The Sill.

When living with pets, it is advisable to keep your houseplants off the floor and instead place them on a higher shelf, bookcase, or on a plant stand – we love this Bamworld design from Amazon. You could even pair them with cat-safe indoor plants for a botanical display.

With Christmas cactus' tendency to drape gracefully over the sides of their pot, they are ideal for growing in hanging or raised containers – handy if you want to keep them well out of reach and nibble off mischievous pets. Just remember to position them in a bright or semi-shady spot, out of direct sunlight as this can scorch the fleshy leaves.

'The Christmas cactus prefers bright, indirect light,’ says Keira Kay, Bloom & Wild plant expert. ‘In a window with dappled light or a well-lit but semi-shaded location is best in order for this plant to thrive.'

It’s also worth knowing that the leaves of this plant tend to break off if knocked or brushed against, so another good reason to keep them up high on a shelf or in a hanging planter. However, should they get knocked off you can use these leaves to propagate a new Christmas cactus.

What do I do if my dog eats a Christmas cactus?

Like many succulents, Schlumbergera is non-toxic and perfectly safe to have around all household pets. The occasional curious nibble will not cause any discomfort, but as with all non-toxic plants, eating a large quantity of foliage can cause problems.

‘While Christmas cacti are not poisonous to dogs, they can cause stomach upset and vomiting,’ says Anirban Saha, founder of MrPlanter.com. ‘If your dog does eat a Christmas cactus, watch for signs of an allergic reaction, loose stool, or an upset stomach. If these occur, contact your veterinarian immediately. As with any plant, it is always best to err on the side of caution.’

Pet-safe indoor plants are essential whether you are an experienced or first-time pet parent. No matter how trustworthy and well-trained your furry friend is, there are many popular indoor plants that can cause them harm. Avoid the potential risk and still satisfy your longing for a plant-filled home by opting for non-toxic houseplants.

From stately Palms and arcing ferns to shapely Prayer and Spider plants, there are many leafy beauties that will soften your decor and enhance your home environment and wellbeing too. There are plenty of non-toxic flowering plants too if you fancy a burst of color. African Violets, orchids and Vrieseas or Flaming Sword are just a few to tempt you.

We’ve spoken to some leading, green-fingered experts to discover the best indoor plants, so you can reap the benefits and enjoy reduced stress levels too. 

Best pet-safe indoor plants – 10 to choose from

Avoiding plants that are toxic to cats and poisonous plants to dogs doesn't mean you can dismiss the principle that choosing the right plant for the right position in your home is key. 

Fall crocus can cause liver and kidney damage, and every part of a lily is toxic to cats. Others to avoid include ivy, Elephant's Ears and the ZZ plant. Fortunately, many plants, and house plants in particular, are completely safe to keep around animals, including Calathea, Spider Plants and African Violets.

1. Calathea 

With its stunning foliage coming in endless patterns and colors, including every shade of green, silver, yellow and claret, the Calathea or Peacock plant as it is also known is one of the most striking pet-friendly plants.  Ben Norman, from Baby Bio®, agrees, ‘Perhaps the most varied pet-friendly plant species is the calathea, as there are many beautiful varieties, such as “Whitestars,” “Sanderianas,” “Rattlesnakes,” and “Freddies,” to name a few, all of which are completely non-toxic to both cats and dogs.’ 

‘If you are considering adding a calathea or two to your collection, the key thing is to remember that they are tropical plants,’ continues Ben. ‘Position them in a warm spot with bright but indirect sunlight – if they are placed in direct light the beautiful leaf markings may fade and even scorch. They can even cope in lower light conditions, as they are native to rainforests and used to living under the canopy of trees, however brighter conditions will allow your calatheas to thrive and even flower.’

Humidity lovers, it’s best to prevent leaves from crisping up by standing the pot on a tray of gravel and misting regularly with tepid water too. 

2. Fishbone cactus

This standout plant is a real show stealer for any pet-safe home. Hailing from the rainforests of Mexico where it grows high up in the trees, its distinctive, flat, ric-rac-edged leaves start off growing upright before eventually trailing downwards. Its laid-back attitude to watering it also makes it a real cinch to look after.

A shade lover, the fishbone cactus prefers just a few hours of indirect sunlight a day. Position it around 50cm to 1m away from a window in a hanging planter or position it on a shelf, where it can casually drape. Pot up using free-draining soil to prevent root rot and water only when the compost is completely dry. Feed regularly with specialist cactus fertilizer from April to September, stopping altogether from October to March.

Richard Cheshire, Plant Doctor at Patch Plants is a real fan too, ‘It’s a quick grower in the right conditions and its tendrils will grow as long as you let them. If it’s very happy, it should flower in autumn, producing beautiful, heavily scented blossoms. Those flowers only come out after dark and live for just one night, which is quite fantastically romantic and dramatic of them.’ 

3. Burro's tail 

Burro’s Tail is a succulent that loves sunshine and direct sunlight, as they originate in the dry heat of Honduras and Mexico. Growing up to 23 inches (60cm) long, the intricate blue-grey stems will trail over the side of the pot as the plant grows, which may tempt curious pets to investigate, but this plant won't do them any harm if they do. Keep them high or low, potted in free-draining compost and away from bright, direct light. They can cope for periods without water, as they tend to store reserves in their leaves. 

It's worth knowing that the stems are relatively fragile and can break off easily. If they do, make the most of them, by repotting them and establishing new plants.

4. Ponytail palm

Another pet-friendly and good-looking succulent – although you wouldn’t know it instantly. This sculptural beauty stores water in its bulbous trunk, making it ideal for those who are less than organized with their watering regime or just away from home a great deal. Fine green hair-like leaves emerge from the top of the trunk in a fountain-like fashion and add movement and softness to the sculptural silhouette. Thankfully these almost indestructible low maintenance indoor plants are back on trend.

Extremely long-lived, the same plant can last for decades. Whilst they reach heights of 20 feet (6m) in the wild, they take their time to top 3ft (90cm) indoors. Native to Mexico, they need a dry, bright position out of the direct sun and free-draining compost. Never leave them sitting in water as they will quickly rot, instead water them every three or four weeks when the top couple of inches of compost are dry.

5. Peperomia 

‘Peperomia plants are grown for their beautiful foliage, not their blooms,’ says Eliza Blank, founder of The Sill. ‘They are semi-succulent, adaptable, visual-appealing, and pet-friendly – all characteristics that make for suitable houseplants.’

Loving bright to medium light levels, it’s important to keep these plants out of strong, direct sunlight as it can scorch the leaves. Similarly, do keep them away from radiators, draughts, and air conditioning units.

When it comes to watering these captivating plants like to be watered every one to two weeks during the spring-summer growing period. Let the compost dry out completely before repeating and avoid letting the roots sit in water, as this will lead to the plant rotting.

6. Fan palm 

Spiky but perfectly safe around pets, this stately palm makes a fabulous statement in a corner or on a side table. With its exotic good looks and large, deeply cut fronds it oozes tropical charm. A slow grower it’s a great option if space is tight, only reaching up to 6.5ft (2m) indoors, compared to 65ft (20m) in its native southeast Asia.  

A bright spot but away from the sun’s glare is ideal for this gentle giant. It also likes its surroundings steamy so pop in a kitchen or bathroom or mist regularly a few times weekly.

7. Boston Fern 

The Boston Fern has different light requirements at different times of the year. During the spring and summer, it needs a shady location. A north-facing window is ideal. During autumn and winter, it needs extra light and will benefit from at least a couple of hours of direct sunlight per day. At all times of the year, it will not tolerate full sun or total shade. It is a great option for a bathroom or kitchen plant as it loves high humidity. Group plants together to create a mini microclimate.

These plants have a graceful draping habit so are best displayed in a raised or hanging planter. Keep them looking lush and full by trimming out any yellow or dried fronds around the base to encourage fresh new growth. Never trim at the crown of the plant as this can stunt growth altogether.

8. Chinese money plant

Supremely popular today this plant is a speedy grower, easy to care for, and, above all, perfectly pet-safe too. 

Native to the Southern Chinese provinces of Yunnan and Sichuan, this elegant plant was thought to bring its owner luck and good fortune, thanks to its large, rounded leaves that were thought to represent coins stacking one on top of the other. 

Finding the right spot in your home for a Chinese money plant is key to its healthy growth. These deep green leafy beauties love the sun but will scorch if positioned in strong, direct sunlight. Pretty easygoing, these stunning plants need some water but detest sitting in a waterlogged pot and find it tricky to recover from too. Water when the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost are dry and allow the soil to dry completely before repeating.

9. Spider plant

“To make sure your home is pet friendly, opt for a spider plant,’ says Patty Willems, from elho. ‘Not only are they harmless to cats and other pets, but also low maintenance. This air-cleaning indoor plant can even help to banish nasty toxins from homes, so you and your fur baby can enjoy clean air.’

Patty continues, ‘Spider plants are best kept in low light as bright direct sunlight can scorch their leaves. Spider plants only need a small amount of water to keep them going, so scale back the watering to avoid developing any nasty diseases, such as root rot. elho’s self-watering insert keeps plants happy and hydrated as the simple watering system ensures plants get the water they need at the right time. Plus, the water meter indicates when it needs filling up again, so your spider plant will never be dehydrated!’

10. Prayer plant

‘Maranta and calathea plants belong to the family Marantaceae, and they make beautiful pet-safe houseplants,’ says Mark Lawlor from Happy Houseplants. ‘Maranta is sometimes called the prayer plant because its leaves lie flat during the day and fold upwards at night, as if in prayer.’

With beautifully patterned leaves in an array of colors including every shade of green plus claret and silver, these plants soon prove irresistible and look stunningly grouped together. Resist placing them in direct light though as this can fade the foliage and, in severe cases, create scorch marks. Instead, position them around 3.2 feet (1m) away from a window.

Prayer plants prefer high humidity and can turn crisp and if the air becomes too dry. The easiest way to increase humidity levels is to invest in a humidifier or place a tray of pebbles with a shallow layer of water next to plants. Give them a gentle but regular mist using tepid water, too, and consider grouping plants together to create a mini microclimate, which will help increase humidity levels.

Remember, If your pet shows any sign of having ingested poison, such as vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, or confusion, seek veterinary assistance straightaway.

Which indoor plants are safe around pets?

 ‘There are several pet-safe plants out to choose from, such as ferns, Chinese money plants, watermelon peperomia, and the parlor palm, so even if you do have furry friends at home, you can still create a beautiful indoor jungle!’ says Ben Norman, from Baby Bio®.

Which large indoor plants are pet-safe?

There are plenty of gorgeous, sculptural indoor plants that are non-toxic and safe to have around pets. Some of our favorites include:

• Parlor palm 
• Date palm 
• Fan palm 
• Aspidistra 
• Money tree
• Banana plant 

What is the best pet-safe flowering house plant?

The African Violet, also known as the Cape Marigold, will flower profusely given plenty of direct sunlight, as long as you don't allow the roots to sit in water. Your furry friends probably won't be very interested in this one, because it doesn't have wavy leaves or long tempting fronds and has no scent.

Many plants are synonymous with Christmas – whether that is holly, poinsettia, or timeless mistletoe. However, a rising interest in the aptly-named Christmas cactus suggests there is room for a new festive staple with (dare we say) even more character.

As we approach the holiday, there is an inevitable interest in increasingly-popular houseplants – and it's possible that knowing how to make a Christmas cactus bloom is on your agenda for the coming weeks.

If you've read up on how to grow a Christmas cactus, you likely will have heard that carting for the plant of the moment is relatively easy.

However, a healthy Christmas cactus is certainly no guarantee, and so, if you question, 'why is my Christmas cactus not blooming?', this is most likely what you're getting wrong, and what to do.

Why is my Christmas Cactus not blooming?

'If your Christmas Cactus is not blooming, then it's most probably because you are not giving it enough water or because the humidity around the plant is too low,' says Diana Cox from The Gardening Talk.

As the expert explains, the plant is native to rainforests and requires a humid environment and soil that is moist but not overly soggy.

However, the potential problems don't end there. 'Low temperatures, excess sun exposure, and fertilizer surplus can also cause Christmas cactus to stop blooming,' Diana says. And Stacie Hiett, a Texas-based expert from Counting Tomatoes, agrees.

'The holiday cactus is a short-day bloomer, which means it sets blooms when exposed to longer night time hours and cooler temperatures,' she says.

'Approximately six to eight weeks are needed for buds to form. If you have a Thanksgiving cactus, start the reduced light hours around the early part of October; if you have a Christmas cactus, start the reduced light hours around mid-October. The Easter cactus takes a bit longer to form buds; start the process for blooms approximately 14 weeks before Easter.'

How to fix a Christmas cactus that's not blooming

As the experts suggest, knowing when to water a Christmas cactus is one of the most impactful things you can do. 'If your Christmas cactus is not blooming, you should check if the soil is wet. If this is the case, you should immediately water your plant,' Diana emphasizes.

But the process continues beyond your watering habits.

'If you find that the plant is not underwatered, you should use a hygrometer to check the humidity. If the hygrometer indicates that the humidity is below 50 percent, you should use a humidifier in order to help increase the humidity around your plant,' she says. This is Amazon's best-selling, top rated hygrometer.

'Additionally, you should make sure that the temperature is around 60°F (16°C). Christmas cacti will grow best and bloom when the temperature is between 60 and 70°F (16 and 21°C).

When should you put a Christmas Cactus in the dark?

There is a common belief that putting your cactus in a dark closet for 14 hours a night will help it bloom. However, if you want to see flowers before Christmas, it is, unfortunately (probably) too late.

'If you want your Christmas cactus to start blooming, you should put it in the dark at the beginning of October for 12 hours a day,' Diana says. 'If you keep doing so for at least eight days, your Christmas cactus will start blooming.'

If you know how to propagate a Christmas cactus, though, you can enjoy these benefits year-on-year – because we expect this plant trend isn't going anywhere fast.

Cat safe indoor plants are a must if you have curious moggies at home, but it’s not always easy to tell which leafy beauties cause problems and which are harmless. Worry not – our handy guide, laden with expert tips – will tell you all you need to know.

Many popular indoor plants contain toxins that can be harmful to cats if eaten or, if brushed up against, prior to grooming, so it’s always best to be cautious and stick to those that are known to be safe, even if ingested. 

'There are many cat-safe plants out to choose from, such as ferns, Chinese money plants, watermelon peperomia and the parlour palm, so even if you do have furry friends at home, you can still create a beautiful indoor jungle!’ says Ben Norman, of Baby Bio®.

Avoiding plants that are toxic to cats doesn't mean you can dismiss the principle that choosing the right plant for the right position in your home is key. Our expert guide shows there are cat safe plants for every position.

Cat safe indoor plants

Rest easy knowing your pets are safe at home with this list of cat safe indoor plants. We’ve consulted the experts and compiled the 10 most popular choices.

1. Areca Palm

Instantly recognizable, this elegant, arcing palm oozes grace and is perfect for filling empty corners, softening fireplaces and adding stature to hallways and landings. Large, plentiful fronds shoot out from bamboo-like stems and with their glossy green foliage add a classy, ritzy touch. 

Hailing from Madagascar, these palms grow up to 9ft (3m) tall if happy with their conditions. Light lovers they like a bright spot out of direct sun and prefer high humidity – so keep their roots moist, place on a gravelled filled tray and mist regularly. Pretty tolerant, they are happy in temperatures between 59-77°F (15-25°C) but will perish if conditions dip below 50°F (10°C).

2. Asplenium or Bird’s Nest Fern

‘We love this plant for its friendly, soft and delicate zingy green leaves,’ says Julia Leakey is the product designer at Crocus. Long, smooth and glossy foliage that is often crinkled at the edges it is a real architectural indoor beauty and can reach up to 3-5ft (1m wide, 1.5m high).

‘Avoid handling the newly emerging fronds and water regularly in the growing season so that the compost remains moist but not waterlogged,’ continues Julia. ‘Instead, mist the leaves regularly with water – particularly in winter when the central heating is turned on. Maintain temperatures above 10°C in winter and repot in spring when the plant becomes root bound.’

3. Snake Plant or Sansevieria

With its distinct upright and sword-like leaves, this popular indoor plant is a real tough beauty. Reaching up to 3ft (1m) tall it makes a real contrast when grouped together with smaller, multi-branching plants and is handy for display and wellbeing purposes too

As Emily Wight, Co-founder of indoor plant store Foli suggests, ‘The foliage of your sturdy snake plant grows vertically. Look to utilize its height as a partition in front of a window or to hide anything unsightly.’ 

She also highlights another of its hidden qualities. ‘In need of some fresh air? An excellent air cleaning indoor plant, the snake plant works the day shift and the night shift, absorbing toxins and releasing oxygen 24-7.’

You can easily propagate a snake plant when you have one to make more. And, you've guessed it, outside they make for some of the best snake repellent plants, too.

4. Kentia Palm

A truly elegant and cat-safe choice, the Palm Court palm as it is also known, epitomizes 1920s high society living and decadence. Indoors they can reach up to 6.5-9.8ft (2-3m) and cast a beautiful, dappled shade if positioned near a window.

 They are slow growers though, so tend to be expensive to buy and deserve a little TLC. Mark Lawlor from Happy Houseplants says, ‘Our tip for the Kentia Palm is to go big! They look wonderful when established and well worth the extra cost. Like most houseplants, it will thrive if you treat it a little bit mean. Water sparingly and give it some space to grow and you will be rewarded with a wonderful specimen plant.’ 

5. Haworthia or Zebra Cactus

Small but endlessly fascinating, these small, spiky succulents with bold bands and pearly spots are real charmers. Slow growing, non-toxic to pets and exceptionally undemanding, they look amazingly architectural grouped together on a tabletop or windowsill. 

Caring for succulents isn't complicated: they thrive in bright or indirect light. When to water succulents? Only every two to three weeks, and do wait until the soil is completely dry though before repeating. Fertilize with a cactus fertilizer during spring and summer but hold off in fall and winter.

6. Echeveria

Fancy growing something small, feline friendly and little different? Well, echeveria’s should be a strong contender. Succulents with fleshy globular leaves set in neat rosettes, they need very little attention and come in a huge range of different colors and textures from grey, blue to pink, green, red and black. 

‘Sunlight is needed to ensure the beautiful leaf colour and overall healthy appearance of Echeveria, so avoid shady locations,’ says Gynelle Leon in her book Prick. ‘Having said that, if the temperature is over 86°F (30°C), you will need to provide shade and extra ventilation.’

7. Aspidistra or Cast Iron plant

Tolerating near virtual neglect, Aspidistras cope stoutly with gloomy light levels, air pollution and fluctuating temperatures. Thankfully these almost indestructible low maintenance indoor plants are back on trend.

Even if you forget to water them for months they will somehow survive. Amazingly slow growing and long lived, many aspidistra plants reach the ripe age of 50 plus and become highly prized and valuable too. 

‘Wash the leaves occasionally to keep them free of dust (this can be done by popping it under a cold shower) and try to maintain cool temperatures above 7 to 10°C (44 to 50°F) in winter,’ says Helen Derrin, Plant Doctor at Crocus.

8. Calathea OR Prayer Plant

‘Perhaps the most varied pet-friendly plant species is the calathea,’ says Ben Norman, of Baby Bio®. ‘There are many beautiful varieties, such as “Whitestars,” “Sanderianas,” “Rattlesnakes,” and “Freddies,” to name a few, all of which are completely non-toxic to both cats and dogs. 

'If you are considering adding a calathea or two to your collection, the key thing is to remember that they are tropical plants, therefore have specific care requirements. Position them in a warm spot with bright but indirect sunlight – if they are placed in direct light the beautiful leaf markings may fade and even scorch.’

 Prayer plants prefer high humidity and can turn crisp and brown if the air becomes too dry. The easiest way to increase humidity levels is to invest in a humidifier or place a tray of pebbles with a shallow layer of water next to plants. Give them a gentle but regular mist using tepid water, too, and consider grouping plants together to create a mini micro-climate, which will help increase humidity levels.

Ben continues, ‘You might even want to move calatheas to more naturally humid rooms in the home, such as the bathroom or kitchen. As they are safe for animals, you don’t have to worry about them being placed anywhere where furry friends might be able to reach them for a nibble!’

9. African violets

Enduringly popular and prolific flowerers, African violets have cheery five petalled open blooms in shades of purple, blue, pink, white and red. Set against dark, furry leaves these are the indoor plants many of us remember from childhood and for good reason too. 

Pretty straightforward to care for, they need a constant temperature of 65 to 75°F (18 to 24°C) and at least 10 daily hours of sunlight to flower steadily.

Avoid watering the leaves as this can cause them to mark or rot and only water when the soil is completely dry.

10. String of hearts

Extremely easy to look after, this delicate trailing plant with long stems reaching up to six and half feet (2m) is very tolerant and undemanding. 

‘Also known as Rosary Vine or Chain of Hearts, Ceropegia woodii is not truly a succulent, but it does store water in its stems and plant care is very similar to that of a succulent,’ says Mark McCance, Hortology. ‘String of Hearts is extremely easy to look after and very tolerant of neglect. It is a perfect plant for hanging baskets.’

Happy at most room temperatures, just avoid drafts or direct sun, it tends to like moist but not waterlogged soil. Want to give it an occasional boost? Then mist with a water spray and pop by a window for a few hours in the morning or evening.

Where to buy the best cat safe plants

• Amazon cat safe plants
• Lowe's pet safe plants
• The Home Depot cat safe plants

What is the easiest cat safe indoor plant to grow?

There are quite a few beautiful indoor plants that are non-toxic to pets and need little attention too. The Cast Iron plant, most stately palms and intricate succulents such as haworthia, aloe vera and Kalanchoe are all worthy contenders. 

Which plants are most toxic to cats?

Lilies are perhaps the most toxic to cats and pets in general, and they don’t have to nibble on them either to become poorly. The flowers sticky rust red pollen can attach itself to the animal’s fur if they brush against the plant. It is often then accidentally ingested when the animals licks and grooms itself, leading to immediate kidney failure. Other indoor plants to avoid include poinsettia, hyacinths and jade plant. Take care to also avoid outdoor plants like hydrangeas which are toxic to cats.

Is the spider plant harmful to cats?

No, the spider plant, a very popular houseplant, is perfectly safe for a cat friendly home and can even be nibbled by felines without causing any harm. 

When it comes to Thanksgiving and Christmas, the two holidays have their own traditions and quirks that make it easy for us to differentiate between these celebrations. However, when it comes to the eponymously named cactuses, the distinction is not always as clear. They are both from the genus Schlumbergera, and are closely related, but there are some important differences.

Questions surrounding these plant are already in abundance. At this time of year it's vital to know how to correctly care for and grow a Christmas cactus, and of course how to make a Christmas cactus bloom, but perhaps the most prominent question is how to differentiate the festive plant from its very similar Thanksgiving counterpart.

If you're not sure which plant you own, here's everything you need to know to tell the two cactuses apart – so you can celebrate the holiday with the right plant at the right time.

Thanksgiving cactus vs Christmas cactus: the key differences

'Whenever I go to identify a plant, the first thing to do is study the leaves,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at H&G. 'The most notable difference between a Christmas cactus and a Thanksgiving cactus is the shape of their leaves.'

A Thanksgiving cactus, Schlumbergera truncata, has sharp and claw-shaped edges at the leaf edges, whilst on a Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgesii, these are scalloped and shaped like tear-drops.

'You could describe the leaves of a Thanksgiving cactus as spiky, whereas the Christmas cactus is much smoother,' says Rachel. 'Thanksgiving cactuses also tend to flower in shades of deep red or purple, whereas the Christmas alternative is often white, pink, or red in color.'

However, their differences are not limited to the aesthetic. Another key difference is the time of year each cactus blooms.

'A Thanksgiving cactus usually blooms in late fall, typically in November, and fittingly in time for Thanksgiving. Meanwhile, a Christmas cactus blooms in winter or very early spring – typically in December,' says Tenielle Jordison, H&G gardens writer and houseplant fanatic.

There is another slight difference in the shape of the plants as they mature, adds Tenielle. 'Christmas cacti tend to drape and trail more as their leaves get longer, whereas a Thanksgiving cactus can maintain a more upright shape.'

You can find Thanksgiving cactus plants available at Walmart.

FAQs

How can I be sure which variety of Schlumbergera cactus I'm buying?

Confusingly, a lot of retailers label both Christmas and Thanksgiving cactuses as 'holiday cactuses'. This is not helpful if you are looking to buy one variety in particular. Always check the plant label and look for the botanical or Latin name. If there isn't one stipulated on the label, the shape of the leaves will be your best indicator.

Do Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti have anything in common?

Yes - the two plants have a lot in common. Aside from their similar appearance, their care requirements are much the same. Both plants also require periods of darkness in order to set buds and bloom in late fall and winter.

If you positioned your Schlumbergera outside over the summer months, now is the time to bring it indoors and make sure to keep your Christmas cactus in the dark for a while, for it to bloom in time for the holidays. For maximum longevity, you can read up on how to repot a Christmas cactus to ensure you get the most from your plant and enjoy its festive colors year after year.

You simply cannot go wrong if you invest in Christmas plants and flowers for your home or as gifts – and these are the best this season has to offer.

Traditional carols such as The Holly and the Ivy or the more recent Under the Mistletoe by Justin Bieber set a celebratory mood, whilst the centuries’ old song O Tannenbaum immortalizes the humble fir tree. When it comes to celebratory floral decorations, little compares with the rich red foliage of poinsettias. Meanwhile, outdoors, even the most dismal morning brings the unlooked-for pleasure of wondrous flowers such as hellebores, clematis or aconites; and berries aplenty on evergreen skimmias and hollies.

So, as you gather greenery to decorate your home or to give as gifts, take a moment to discover the best Christmas plants and flowers for home or gifts.

Best Christmas plants and flowers

This list includes our favorite Christmas plants and flowers. It may be that you plant them now as one of your winter garden ideas – or perhaps you will want display them indoors in containers as a table centerpiece or as part of your Christmas foliage ideas display. 

It's also wonderful to give Christmas plants as gifts – for green-thumbed friends to enjoy as indoor plants or planted in their own yards. You can use many of these picks to plant a winter container, too.

1. Holly

First, holly, one the more traditional Christmas plants. The most ancient of Christmas traditions of decorating churches and homes derives from the Roman festival of Saturnalia, a seven-day fest of debauchery and drinking. Later, Christians adopted holly to represent Christ’s crown of thorns, the crimson berries a symbol of his blood, and the evergreen leaves a metaphor for life after death. 

Today, boughs of holly are used to decorate Christmas hallways, whilst the berries add color to Christmas wreaths and tree decorations. 

Outside, hollies augment a yard’s permanent framework, either as shrubs, hedging, or as topiary, clipped into balls and standards (discover when to prune holly bushes to keep them in good shape). 

Easy-going holly cultivars from the Ilex aquifolium group vary from bushy to tall, with glossy berries offset by prickly leaves that range from dark to light green, and often splashed with yellow. Male and female flowers are usually borne on separate plants, and one from each sex is needed to produce berries. 

2. Rosemary  

Rosemary has been associated with the Christmas period long before poinsettia, as rosemary is believed to have been one of the plants in the manger where the baby Jesus was cradled. 

In the Middle Ages, people believed that if they smelled rosemary on Christmas Eve, they would be healthy and happy throughout the New Year, so they walked on rosemary spread across the floors. 

This started a tradition of rosemary in Christmas decorations that we continue today – with the rosemary table top Christmas trees, wreaths, festive swags, and evergreen bouquets.  

If you are growing rosemary yourself, ensure you learn both when to prune rosemary and how to harvest rosemary to ensure it's in good shape for the festive season. 

3. Amaryllis  

The massive, six-pointed amaryllis bloom makes an impressive festive decoration at the backdrop of a bleak day. If you want to have a blooming amaryllis for Christmas, you should plant the bulbs no later than the beginning of November, although it’s always safer to just buy one already in bloom.  

4. Ivy

In pagan festivals, ivy was used to celebrate the Winter Solstice and ward off evil spirits. Over time, due to its clingy nature, ivy has come to represent fidelity and, being forever green, eternal life. 

English ivy, Hedera helix, is one of those Christmas plants used to add fresh greenery to wreaths and Christmas table decor ideas, lasting well indoors. 

Alternatively, outdoors this most easy-going of drought-tolerant evergreen climbers can be trained over arbors or arches, the dense canopy giving shelter to countless small creatures. 

English ivy comes in many cultivars with leaves varying from deep to pale green or grey, and infused with purple or yellow variegation. Some are very vigorous, so select a variety to suit the space available. In fall, many varieties bear nectar-rich flowers that tempt butterflies, followed by black fruits in late fall – a treat for the birds. Beware though, these berries are poisonous for humans.

5. White chrysanthemums  

As the chrysanthemum symbolizes optimism and joy, it comes as no surprise that it’s now synonymous with ‘the most wonderful time of the year’. 

However, white chrysanthemums are also brought into German homes on Christmas Eve because of an old legend in which a peasant family ushers a beggar man in from the cold. Claiming to be the Christ Child, he then fled, leaving two of the flowers behind.  

6. Mistletoe

Many a romance has started with an innocent seasonal peck under the mistletoe, but the reasons behind this Christmas tradition vary. In Norse mythology, it is said that after her son’s death from a mistletoe arrow, the goddess Frigg was so distraught that her tears turned to white berries that coat the plant in winter. However, after the gods resurrected her son, she declared mistletoe a symbol of love, promising a kiss for all who passed beneath. 

Mistletoe is a woody climber that grows in the canopy of trees, with no roots linked to the earth, and remaining green in winter when trees are bare. It is no surprise then that its mysterious vitality has long been associated with magical powers. Druids revered it, because it blossomed even during the frozen winter, and by Victorian times, kissing beneath mistletoe was an established tradition. 

European mistletoe, Viscum album, is a parasitic plant that weakens its host tree, without killing it. Hosts include apple trees, poplar and lime. 

Mistletoe keeps indoors for a couple of weeks after gathering, if kept in a cool place.

7. Hellebore

At a time when the garden mostly sleeps, a select cast of delicate but doughty Christmas flowers make an entrance onto an unyielding, wintry stage.

One of the loveliest winter plants for pots and borders – or if you want to create a winter flower arrangement – is Helleborus niger, known as the Christmas or Lenten Rose, a semi-evergreen perennial that bears exquisite flowers from midwinter. 

It's easy to grow hellebores. Whilst a sharp frost renders hellebores prostrate, they quickly pick themselves up, none the worse for wear. Hellebores planted near the house can be enjoyed from within, blending well with miniature bulbs, their leathery green leaves adding interest throughout the year. 

As cut flowers, hellebores droop, so it’s best to float the heads in a shallow bowl of water. Hellebores thrive in moist, free-draining, humus-rich soil. Plant in a sheltered spot, in sun or partial shade, mulching in late summer as the new flower buds develop. Repeat in December, trimming back tatty leaves.

8. Firs and pine cones

The first known Christmas tree to appear in England was in the 1760s when the German-born Queen Charlotte put up a tree at the royal court. Sixty years later, the lyrics of the song O Tannenbaum, emphasize the fir’s tree’s year-round appeal: ‘How lovely are thy branches! Not only green when summer’s here but in the coldest time of year.’  

And, of course, fir is wonderful for inspiring pine cone decorations.

In the UK, the Nordmann fir, Abies nordmanniana, is the most popular Christmas tree variety because it barely sheds its glossy, dark green needles. Some trees are sold with roots, ideal to replant outdoors in a cool, sheltered spot — either in open ground, or in a container ready to re-use the following year. 

For small gardens, there are some handsome slow-growing dwarf evergreen pines such as Pinus 'Ophir' or Pinus contorta 'Chief Joseph' which has golden needles that glow on the dreariest day. 

Grow in a sunny spot, in well-drained soil that is neutral to acidic.

9. Poinsettia

Originating from Mexico, the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is tender – but one of the best winter house plants and Christmas plants given as gifts, loved for its brightly colored bracts. 

The Christmas tradition comes from a Mexican folktale about a poor girl called Pepita who, having no present to give the baby Jesus, picked a bouquet of weeds which were later transformed into bright red, star-shaped flowers – a link with the Star of Bethlehem. 

Given the correct care, poinsettias bring seasonal cheer for weeks on end. Position plants in a warm, light position away from strong sunlight and drafts of either hot or cold air. 

Poinsettias are sensitive to temperature and thrive between 60 and 68ºF (15 and 21°C) – prevent foliage from touching cold window panes. Water sparingly, only when the compost feels dry – overwatering causes leaf drop and wilting. To extend the flowering life of plants, mist regularly to create humidity.

Our list of the best poinsettias for Christmas will give you an idea of the different varieties to pick from.

10. Christmas cactus

Also known as the Thanksgiving cactus and holiday cactus, the Christmas cactus is so-called because it flowers in winter. 

Once you've learnt how to grow a Christmas cactus, with its dainty tendrils and boldly-colored flowers, you will have a plant that can bloom and bloom again throughout winter and beyond. 

A Christmas cactus prefers dappled natural light and well-draining, loose potting mix in winter; in growing season – from spring to September, it will enjoy slightly brighter light. Feed monthly in growing season, too, to guarantee more flowers.

11. Cyclamen

Wonderful Christmas plants as gifts, indoor cyclamen are ideal for indoor displays; larger than outdoor cyclamen, they are native to the Middle East; outdoor cyclamen are an essential ingredient in your winter hanging basket ideas. Cyclamen come in a range of festive colors – from white to vivid pinks and reds – and will flower even when it's freezing outside. 

Cyclamen enjoy good natural daylight – although keep them out of direct sun and away from radiators if kept indoors. Don't overwater, and remove flowers as they die off to keep the plant healthy and the display neat. 

Once cyclamen have flowered, continue to feed and water them until the flowers disappear and the leaves turn yellow. New growth will return – at which point you can begin watering and feeding again. 

12. Heather

Winter gardens, containers – and even pots indoors – are always at their best when heather is included in the mix. The colors – green, pinks, whites and purples – really stand out against other foliage that has faded to grey or brown; heather also attracts bees year round. 

Plant heather in the fall or early spring. Some varieties – calluna – enjoy acid soil; others – erica – prefer neutral to alkaline soil.

13. Snowdrops

If you are planning a winter garden, snowdrops should be on your list – but equally, forced snowdrop bulbs make wonderful Christmas plants as gifts. 

Why plant snowdrops? They herald the coming of spring – guaranteed to lift the spirits on dreary winter days. 

Keep snowdrops cool to guarantee longer life indoors.

What is the most popular Christmas plant?

The best Christmas plant – or at least, the most popular – is undoubtedly the poinsettia, which starts arriving in our stores from around October/November. One of the most common Christmas plants given as gifts, its bright red and green – and sometimes cream – leaves make it instantly recognizable, and a room instantly festive.

What plants can I grow for Christmas?

The easiest plants to grow indoors for Christmas include poinsettia, snowdrops and cyclamen; outdoors, holly, ivy and hellebore are low-maintenance for planting in December. There are also some Christmas orchids to consider.

Houseplants grace our interiors all year, but the best winter houseplants take on extra importance, adding life, color, and stress-reducing, air-purifying qualities during the colder months of the year. 

Winter houseplants add color and interest indoors while our gardens sleep and are more cold-tolerant and resilient at withstanding the sometimes challenging conditions of our homes during the colder months. There are many indoor plants to choose from throughout the year, including low maintenance indoor plants or indoor low light plants, which will also cope well in the months when most plants are dormant.

With many styles, shapes and colors of winter houseplants to choose from, you'll be spoiled for choice. Whichever varieties you choose, make sure you know how to care for house plants in winter to ensure you get the best from them – and to ensure they last right through to next winter.

Best winter houseplants

Whether you're a longstanding indoor plant lover, or a beginner, prepare to exercise those green fingers in the off-season with some of these best winter houseplants. There are choices that will be suitable for any room in the house, whether you're looking for bathroom plants to add to the spa like experience of the space, or bedroom plants to enhance the relaxing and soothing properties of the room.

'Plants native to humid, tropical regions will have the most difficult time adjusting to winter, but plants native to climates with more extreme weather will hardly notice the seasonal shift in our homes,' explains Lindsay Pangborn gardening expert at Bloomscape.

1. Jade plant – Crassula

'The crassula – also known as the Jade Plant – is a fabulous winter houseplant,' explains Morag Hill, co-founder of The Little Botanical.

'It’s happy to tolerate warm and colder conditions and can withstand low-light conditions easily enough. As long as you keep up with a monthly watering routine and give it a little bit of sunlight, it’ll last through to spring and summer,' she adds.

Jade plants can make a lovely addition to a dresser display as kitchen plants, and grouped with a range of other smaller plants if you're decorating with plants.

2. Succulents

Although small in size, succulents are known for their sturdiness and low-maintenance indoor care. 

'Since they can be found on every continent, succulents have been adapting to all sorts of environmental settings, ranging from dry climates or heavy droughts. However, while they can thrive under various temperatures and humidity levels, the secret to success with succulents is at least four hours of direct sunlight a day and special care taken not to overwater them,' explains Lindsay Panghorn.

Make sure you know how to care for succulents in winter and when to water succulents you will be able to enjoy these little beauties year round.

3. Oxalis triangularis

Anther top choice of winter houseplants is 'Oxalis Triangularisis, a low-maintenance and beautifully decorative house plant with vivid purple leaves and bell-shaped flowers,' explains Emily Lawlor of Happy Houseplants. 

These pretty and distinctive plants close their blooms and leaves at night, then open wide to the morning light, adding an extra charm to their presence in the home.

4. Pothos

'Pothos plants have strong durability and are easy to care for, making them perfect for winter houseplants beginners or cold seasons,' says Lindsay Pangborn. 

'Known for their trailing vines, pothos plants will not mind facing chillier winds when placed on window sills or lower light levels during the season’s shorter days. Pothos plants also come in various forms for all sorts of homes,' she adds.

Learn more about pothos plant care and you can enjoy the many different varieties. They are also among the best feng shui plants to add positive energy to your home.

Just take care when watering these beauties. If you ever find yourself asking 'why is my pothos turning yellow?' it could be because you are over or under-watering it.

5. Tradescantia

'Tradescantia is a species of spiderwort native to South America, also known as the wandering Dude, because it grows rapidly and will urban wild any space,' explains Emily Lawlor. 

This classic retro winter houseplants looks beautiful and is among the best plants for hanging baskets or for containers, 'and is stunning and easy-care for,' Emily adds.

6. Aglaonema

There are a number of aglaonemas singled out by the experts as being among the best winter houseplants.

'Aglaonema Pink Star is a gorgeous, rare plant that will thrive easily in your home. Tolerant of low light conditions and easy care, these are perfect plants for beginners but attractive collector plants for more experienced growers.,' says Emily Lawlor of Happy Houseplants, who adds it is a good plant choice if you're looking for a jungle look to your interiors, or are a fan of stunning foliage.

Varieties such as this that have beautiful pink or red leaves are perfect to add a little color to your home during the winter months. 

Dan Bruce of Leafy Plants chooses Aglaonema ‘Chinese Evergreen’. 'This thrives in low light and is happy with cooler temperatures,' he explains.

'It fairs best in medium, indirect light, but can go as low as total darkness and still survive.'

7. Cyclamen persicum 

 Often the best winter plants for pots and borders outdoors make the best winter house plants, too. Cyclamen can look stunning grouped together for impact and to create a mini indoor garden scene.

All types and colors of cyclamen in shades of red, pink and white – are great options for winter. Cyclamen thrives in cooler temperatures, says Karen Musgrave, a certified nursery and landscape professional at Hicks Nurseries in Westbury, NY. She recommends placing potted cyclamen ‘near a drafty window or entryway to add a nice burst of color to your space – they require indirect sunlight and well-drained soil.’ 

These look lovely on a windowsill to add some winter color as kitchen plants.

8. Dwarf citrus 

We've listed citrus plants on our pick of the best indoor trees, and although you might associate them with summer, dwarf citrus plants – including lemon, small oranges and tiny kumquats – are not only top of the tree when it comes to adding a little zest to interior schemes, but they are certainly among the best winter houseplants for culinary – and mixology – use. 

Move dwarf citrus outside in summer, but bring them indoors for winter, preferably in a room with a slightly cooler than average indoor daytime temperatures, ideally 65ºF (18ºC). 

9. Phalaenopsis orchid

Orchids are classic and seasonal choices to bring your indoor winterscape to life. Jessica Matteson, principal of Connecticut and New York-based Matteson Landscape Architecture,  says: ‘My number one houseplant for the winter is the beautiful and undemanding white phalaenopsis orchid. It is sophisticated, low maintenance, happy with only medium light and lasts for months.’ 

They are also among the best bathroom plants and you can quickly get to grips with orchid care.

10. Galanthus nivalis (snowdrops)

If you are planning a winter garden, it's likely you're thinking of snowdrops. And guess what? They can be grown indoors too. Forced bulbs of all kinds are another of Jessica Matteson’s choices for best winter house plants. Indoor grown spring bulbs – including snowdrops (pictured), miniature narcissi, muscari grape hyacinths, and hyacinths – all make it on to our list of best winter house plants. They bring a welcome foretaste of spring and are guaranteed to lift the spirits on dreary winter days. 

Forced bulbs are readily available in nurseries from late afall right through to spring. Keep them cool or they may grow tall and leggy, particularly the miniature narcissi and hyacinths. Of course, you can plant up bulbs yourself to force for indoor winter flowering. The best time to do this is September or early October for flowers in January. 

11. Sansevieria 

These hardy house plants come in many shapes and forms, all of which are happy in both bright, direct sunlight or deep shade. This makes them the perfect plant for winter as they won't need moving to a brighter spot when light levels drop.

'Sansevieria doesn’t like freezing cold but doesn’t mind temperature fluctuations, like the central heating going on and off. Just be careful not to overwater, as that combined with low light can cause the roots to rot,' advises Dan Bruce, expert at Leafy Plants. 

Alice Bailey, co-founder of  Forest, puts them among her best winter houseplant choices, and says: 'Their thick and fibrous leaves are often slightly curved meaning they can tolerate a strong draft because the surface area exposed to the draught is minimal. These factors, paired with the fact they need very minimal watering, make them an extremely easy house guest over the winter period.’ 

12. Zamioculcas zamiifolia – ZZ plant

Karen Musgrave from Hicks Nurseries recommends the stoic Zamioculcas zamiifolia, or ZZ plant, for forgetful gardeners or those who like to travel, and says it's a great houseplant for winter. 'Winter can be cold and dark but the ZZ plant couldn’t care less! This plant tolerates less than optimal conditions and requires little more than well-drained soil and fertilizer every six months.' 

Morag Hill from the Little Botanical is also a fan. 'The ZZ Plant has gorgeous dark green leaves and adds texture to any home or office space. It’s perfect for newbie plant owners as it’s willing to be somewhat neglected and can survive with little water and no light – making it ideal for the dark and chilly autumn/winter months.'

13. Aspidistra

Aspidistra was certainly one of the best winter houseplants as far as the Victorians were concerned and Alice Bailey at Forest explains why it makes the cut for her too, 'As houseplants go, aspidistra has to be one of the most forgiving out there. It’s even been given the common name “cast iron plant” due to its hardiness in the face of almost any environment. 

'You can place them in a spot with minimal natural light thats cold and has a strong draft and it will plough on. Aspidistra elatior is the hardiest variety and has been known to live for up to 50 years, even in poor conditions. As long as it’s being fed over spring and summer this plant should continue to thrive throughout the colder seasons.'

14. Dracaena marginate 

Easy to care for during the wintertime, and relatively slow growing, The Dracaena Marginata is practically indestructible as it’s so drought-tolerant, so consider it one of the easier plants to care for during the cold months (as well as all year round).

Dan Bruce of Leafy Plants, says 'Dracaena marginate, more commonly known as the dragon tree, is a beautiful plant with striking leaves that in certain lights can look like red-edged swords. Originating from Madagascar, its long body/trunk looks more like a small tree than a traditional ‘foliage’ everywhere’ type plant.'

'Dracaenas are adaptable to colder temperatures, low light, and dry air due to their native origins in warmer African and Asian environments, making them perfect for indoor environments during winter months,' agrees Lindsay Pangborn.

15. Anthurium andraeanum 

Karen Musgrave of Hicks Nurseries says: 'Anthurium andraeanum always makes me think of Valentine’s Day with its bright red heart-shaped flowers, and it's a great option for those new to house plants.'

The plant prefers medium sunlight and moist, well-drained soil. The waxy 'flowers' are in fact spathes, bright leaves to attract insects in the plant's natural habitat. There are common varieties with white, pink, or red flowers, but many other shades too. The blooms can last up to three months and appear up to six times per year. 

16. Epipremnum

Alice Bailey at Forest puts Epipremnum on her list of best winter houseplants, saying 'they are a great winter trailer to have in the home. Their tolerance of deep shade is matched by few other houseplants, and the dark and waxy foliage of the aureum variety, aka money plant, means they can tolerate the dry air coming from central heating and draughts without crisping.'

17. Ficus elastica (Rubber plant)

Dan Bruce at Leafy Plants explains: 'The name of the rubber plant doesn’t in fact come from its leaves which do have a rubber look to them due to the thick and glossy look they produce, but from the white substance running through its steams which was at one time used to make rubber. It’s always easy to see why people mistake them for fake plants, as in our experience they always look incredibly healthy, even during the winter months.'

Tolerant to winter’s low light in the home, it’s a fan of humid locations in the home, though won’t need that environment 24/7. Because of its thick foliage, it can survive a drop in temperature very well, so is a great plant to have around the house during the colder months.

18. Schlumbergera truncate (Christmas cactus) 

Emilly Fernandes, a small space gardener from California and consultant at HouseGrail, says, 'Christmas Cactus makes me think of the holiday season, which I love. There are a few colors you can choose from: red, white, yellow, orange, purple and pink. I prefer the red ones because they're bright and colorful. 

The Christmas cactus needs bright direct or indirect light. It does best with a daytime temperature around 70 and an evening temperature around 65. They like a humid environment. 

19. Aloe Vera 

Dan Bruce at Leafy Plants is a big fan of Aloe Vera plants. 'The gel that grows inside this littles guys leaves is used for everything, from skincare products to cleaning items, health drinks to supplements. These slow growing, stemless succulents have thick, fleshy, grey-green leaves with serrated edges. In UK homes they don’t need an overabundance of water and can survive drops in temperature, making them ideal for the winter months,' he says. 

Learn about aloe plant care to keep yours happy and healthy.  'They’ll still need bright light but placed next to an east-facing window will guarantee them the perfect amount of morning sunshine. And though we’re yet to experience it, with the right care during winter, the Aloe Vera has been known to flower,' he adds.

20. Dracaena trifasciata 

Lindsey Hyland at Urban Organic Yield says Dracaena trifasciata, or the snake plant is one of the easiest and best winter houseplants. 

'It's a succulent and so can be left alone for long periods and will not die,' she says. 'Snake plants tolerate neglect and low light levels (no artificial light). The plant produces offsets very readily and propagates itself by sending out shoots that can be cut off and potted up.'

21. Philodendron 

There are more than 450 varieties of Philodendron, but Lindsey Hyland says, 'They are popular houseplants because they're universal, have an easy-going attitude, and can be used in any situation. They do not need to be watered often, but the soil should dry out between watering.'

What are the benefits of winter houseplants?

The benefits of growing winter houseplants are well documented. There have been many studies that have demonstrated links between having plants around us in an indoor setting and improved mood and productivity, and reduced stress levels. Think of it as forest bathing in the comfort of your own home, if you will. 

Houseplants are said to bring physical benefits, too. Reduced blood pressure, fatigue and headaches have been recorded where plants have been introduced, and they are also thought to help purify the air in your home. 

Where to position winter house plants?

The best winter houseplants deserve their place in the sun and Dan Bruce at Leafy Plants says we should move things around a bit and change up our plant interior design in winter. 

‘I know you probably love your fern sitting on the bookshelf,’ he says, ‘but it’s vital that you move them into areas of the home that get the best light throughout the winter days. Place them nearer windows so they can receive as much morning light as possible – although remember not too close, as houseplants aren’t the biggest fans of cold drafts.’

Choosing the right Feng Shui plants is vital if you want to encourage positive energy in your home. 

Houseplants have a powerful ability to not only improve aesthetics but also nourish personal energy. These natural decor pieces strengthen the energy of the wood element which brings energy for growth and action to a space. 

As we continue our obsession with house plants even as the world reopens, a Feng Shui expert offers their advice as to the best and worst plants you can bring into your home. 

The 'bad' Feng Shui plants to avoid

The placement of Feng Shui plants can have an enormous impact on the flow and energy of your home. For example, some plants may be ruining your sleep, according to Feng Shui experts.

'It is important to note that not all plants are equally effective at promoting harmony,' explains astrologer and numerologist Sadye Osborne. 'In fact, some plants are thought to have the opposite effect, disrupting the flow of energy and creating disharmony.

'When it comes to the effects of plants on Feng Shui, it is essential to consider the specific plant and its symbolism.

'As anyone who's tried to sell a house can tell you, first impressions are important. And when it comes to Feng Shui, there are certain plants that can give your home an instant negative vibe.'

1. Cacti 

If you want to create a calming space, it is best to avoid using cacti and other prickly plants such as thorny roses. 'These sharp-edged plants are said to represent conflict and disharmony' she explains. 

2. Toxic plants

You should also aim to avoid toxic or poisonous plants in your home as they will tarnish good energy and risk increasing negative energy. You should also make sure to look after and nourish your plants as dying or neglected plants can cultivate draining energy. ensure you have the right environment to nurture them in order to care for yourself. 

3. Dying plants

Keeping dying plants in your home could be more detrimental than you might think. Not only do dying or lifeless plants look unsightly, but they could also be blocking you from receiving positive energy and good furniture.  

The 'good' Feng Shui plants

In general, most plants are good for Feng Shui, as long as you care for them well. Here are some of the best indoor plants to include in your home when planning Feng Shui.

1. Bamboo

Bamboo is one of the most common Feng Shui plants for encouraging positive energy as its upward growth is associated with mobility and improvement. For this reason, it is a great plant to consider for office Feng Shui as it is believed to help with mobility in your career. It is also a simple plant to care for, requiring only moderate light and semi-frequent watering to keep the soil damp at all times. 

2. Palm

Palm is another ideal Feng Shui plant. The areca palm (also called the butterfly palm) is a firm favorite of Feng Shui enthusiasts for its soft leaves that will cushion against harsh energies. This plant required more full, direct sunlight than bamboo and can grow quite large so needs to be positioned accordingly. 

3. Ferns

Ferns such as the Boston fern are not only popular for their cleansing Feng Shui effect but also for their ability to cleanse the air and remove pollutants. They also come small enough to be displayed as a lush hanging plant in a room with indirect sunlight. Ensure the soil is constantly kept damp and spray occasionally to maintain the plant's need for humidity – this would be a great plant to balance the energy in the smaller spaces of bathrooms. 

4. Money tree

The money tree is easy to care for and is the perfect example of a plant that encourages positive Feng Shui. They are attractive to look at and are strongly associated with good luck as well as wealth and prosperity. 

5. Jade plant

The jade plant is not only one of the world's most Instagrammed houseplants but is also a low-maintenance succulent perfect for attracting prosperity. In Chinese culture, their leaves are thought to resemble coins, and their ability to grow for generations means they are often used as prosperous heirlooms. 

Where should you place plants for Feng Shui?

According to the principles of Feng Shui, the placement of objects can have a massive impact on a person's well-being. 

Sadye suggests placing plants in the east or southeast sectors of your home or office as these areas are associated with health and wealth.

'The east is also associated with new beginnings, so placing plants in this area can symbolize a fresh start.

'If you're looking to improve your relationships, placing plants in the southwest sector of your home will be most beneficial. This is the area associated with love and marriage, so placing plants in this sector can help to foster harmony and happiness within your relationships.'

Where you place your plants is dependent on what effect you want to achieve. 

There are lots of reasons to repot indoor plants. This simple task refreshes the soil and gives them more space to grow, plus it allows you to inspect the roots and remove any rotten ones. It also prevents healthy roots from becoming congested, so they can absorb nutrients and water easily.

When caring for a Christmas cactus, repotting isn’t an activity you’ll need to tick off super often. But, it’s definitely worth doing when the time is right, as it will help these popular tropical plants stay looking fabulous for years to come.

Below, plant-care experts share their tips for success. Combine this advice with our guide on getting a Christmas cactus to bloom and you’ll have a good chance of enjoying plenty of vibrant flowers during the festive season.

A step-by-step guide to repotting your Christmas cactus

It takes just four steps to give these flowering houseplants a new home. Here's how to repot a Christmas cactus successfully.

1. 'Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current one, with good drainage to prevent soggy soil,' advises Kiersten Rankel, an expert from plant-care app Greg. In terms of which soil to use, she recommends a well-draining potting mix designed for succulents or cacti.
2. Gently remove the plant from its existing pot. If it's stuck, carefully run a knife around the edge to help loosen it.
3. Add a few handfuls of fresh potting soil to the new pot, then center your plant in the middle. Fill in the gaps around it with more potting soil, ensuring it's planted at the same depth as previously.
4. 'After repotting, wait a week before watering to allow any damaged roots to heal,' Kiersten says.

When to repot a Christmas cactus

It’s important to know when to repot houseplants to avoid stressing them. An ideal time to repot Christmas cacti is soon after they've finished flowering, which is usually in late winter or early spring.

‘Never repot your Christmas cactus when it’s about to start blooming,’ warns Nastya Vasylchyshyna, a resident botany expert at Plantum. ‘Otherwise, the plant may shed its flower buds.’

FAQs

How often should you repot a Christmas cactus?

'Christmas cacti prefer to be slightly pot-bound, so no rush to repot them,' says Kiersten Rankel, an expert from plant-care app Greg. Once every two or three years is ideal.

There are other houseplants that like being pot-bound, too – a good attribute to look for if you’d like to cut down on maintenance.

Can you divide a Christmas cactus while repotting it?

Repotting is a perfect time to propagate your Christmas cactus by division. Use a sharp, sanitized tool to separate the cactus into two or three parts. Do it in such a way that each part has plenty of strong roots. These sections can then be re-potted individually into fresh soil.

While repotting is a great way to help these succulents thrive, there are other important factors to bear in mind, such as knowing how often to water Christmas cactuses. There are also some common Christmas cactus mistakes you’ll want to steer clear of.