May 29 marks National Compost Day in the US, the perfect opportunity for us gardeners to think about how we use compost in our yards. Both homemade and store-bought compost are invaluable, but you may not realize they actually serve slightly different purposes.

Whether you make compost or simply reply on organic compost from the store (like this from Lowe's), both provide nutrients to encourage strong and healthy plant growth. But, there are some differences to consider. The former provides a super sustainable supply, repurposing food scraps and garden waste, ideal for fertilizing plants. Meanwhile, store-bought compost can provide a convenient, healthy foundation for your garden.

However, Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost, says to be careful with store-bought compost, as quality can vary hugely. Here, she explains more about homemade vs store-bought compost and what to look out for when purchasing your supply from the store.

Benefits of Homemade Compost

There are so many reasons why you should consider making your own compost. Not only does it use up food and garden waste, it also allows you to control what goes into the compost you use on your plants.

'Homemade compost is one of the most sustainable things a household can do because it keeps organic material local and closes the loop directly at home,' says Lauren.

'Instead of sending food scraps and yard waste to a landfill where they generate methane, those nutrients are returned back into the soil system,' she explains.

While there are many things you should never compost, including produce stickers and meat, fruit and veg scraps, grass clippings, and even cardboard can be thrown into your compost bin to make nutrient-rich compost.

'One of the biggest advantages of making your own compost is control. You know exactly what is going into it, whether that is kitchen scraps, leaves, untreated cardboard, garden trimmings, coffee grounds, or other organic materials,' Lauren says.

'This is all especially important for gardeners focused on soil quality, food production, chemical reduction, or regenerative gardening,' she adds.

But, to make your composting efforts successful, there are lots of composting mistakes to avoid. This includes not aerating it or maintaining high enough temperatures for decomposition to happen.

Tools like a compost aerator (from Amazon) and a compost thermometer (from Walmart) can help you.

There are also lots of ways to start a compost heap. You can use a traditional compost bin (like this from Lowe's), build a pallet composter, or even try lazy composting by stacking up organic materials.

'Worm composting systems are excellent for apartments and smaller gardens because they process food scraps indoors with minimal space,' Lauren says.

You can even purchase electric kitchen countertop compost bins, like this pretty white on from Amazon.

'Composting does not have to look one specific way to be effective!' Lauren adds.

Benefits of Store-Bought Compost

Of course, there's nothing wrong with store-bought compost. Lauren notes it's ideal for convenience, large projects, and to provide a strong foundation in the garden.

'It's great if you don't have the space or time to compost at home,' she adds.

'High-quality commercial compost is typically screened for consistency and can improve soil structure, water retention, microbial activity, and long-term soil health,' she explains.

It's best to purchase specific compost for your needs. For example, this Miracle-Gro all-purpose compost at Walmart is great for topping up borders, while you might want to opt for this potting mix from Amazon for your container garden, as it's designed to be well-draining for pot plants.

But, Lauren notes there is a word of warning when relying solely on store-bought compost:

What to Look Out For

'Quality varies widely. Some compost products are unfinished, overly woody, contaminated, or low in biological activity,' Lauren warns.

'I always recommend sourcing compost from reputable facilities or brands that are transparent about feedstocks and composting processes.

'Finished compost, whether store-bought or homemade should smell earthy and look similar to dark soil,' she explains.

If compost smells bad, is compacted, or overly wet, it's likely not a great quality to rely on for supporting plant growth. Instead, you want it to be dark, crumbly, and moisture-retentive without being overly saturated like a sponge.

'One important thing people often overlook is that compost is less about feeding plants and more about building healthy soil systems over time,' Lauren notes.

'Healthy soils retain more water, support microbial life, reduce erosion, improve resilience during drought, and can reduce dependence on synthetic fertilizers and other inputs,' she explains.

What to Shop

If you're attempting to make your own compost for the first time, consider using methods to speed up composting. This includes getting the green-brown ratio right, making a larger heap, and adding worms to help with decomposition.

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Making compost is a great way to turn garden and kitchen waste into valuable gardening gold. For a better and more efficient composting system, a simple chimney in the middle of your pile can make all the difference.

A compost chimney is simply a channel or tube made of wire, PVC, or sticks that sits vertically in the center of a compost pile. It boosts the natural movement of oxygen, stops inactive and smelly piles, and can even speed up the overall composting process.

If you make compost at home and have struggled with slow or smelly compost piles, a chimney may be the answer to your prayers. Here, we reveal how a compost chimney works, and a compost expert explains how a natural version made from sticks or stems may be better than putting a plastic or metal tube in the pile.

What Is a Compost Chimney?

A compost chimney is an easy, convenient way to speed up your composting. It is a simple component to add to any compost pile. It isn’t complicated or expensive to achieve, and there are DIY methods to integrate one into an existing pile.

Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost, explains: ‘A compost chimney is an airflow channel placed vertically through the center of a hot compost pile, and is normally made from perforated PVC pipe or wire mesh.

‘It acts like a pile’s “breathing tube” to help fresh air reach the middle, where compost can become dense, wet, and low in oxygen.’

A compost chimney is specifically designed for a static compost pile. If you have alternative systems, such as a tumbling composter, a wormery composter, or a bokashi system, a chimney is unnecessary.

How It Boosts Composting?

As gardeners routinely add garden trimmings, grass clippings, hedge prunings, leaves, cardboard, kitchen scraps, and more to a compost pile, it can become compacted over time.

Oxygen is essential for good composting. But compaction reduces pore space and oxygen movement, which affects the pile’s efficiency. A lack of oxygen can lead to anaerobic conditions, where decomposition slows, and the pile starts to emit a bad smell.

If your compost is not heating up, it can often be due to a lack of aeration. This is a scenario where a compost chimney can come to the rescue.

Lauren says a compost chimney ‘improves passive aeration’ and the natural movement of oxygen throughout a compost pile, which in turn ‘supports aerobic decomposition’ in the pile.

The chimney provides a channel for fresh air to get into the middle of the pile. Warmth at the base of the compost rises out the chimney, and cooler air is pulled in to create the perfect conditions for efficient composting.

‘A compost chimney also helps regulate moisture distribution by preventing overly saturated wet pockets and supports more uniform thermophilic activity,’ adds the compost expert.

‘In larger or denser piles, this can contribute to faster, more even decomposition and more stable compost over time.’

The coming and going of warm and cooler air through the chimney prevents a compost pile from overheating. While an overheating compost is not a fire risk, once the temperature exceeds 160°F, it can kill the beneficial microbes essential for breaking down organic waste.

What to Use for a Compost Chimney

There are different ways to incorporate a compost chimney into your pile. A common way is to insert a pipe with drilled holes or chicken wire rolled into a tube into the center of the compost.

While these types of chimneys work, Lauren offers alternative methods, too, as she recommends: ‘A simple compost chimney can be made with a vertical column of hardware cloth, coarse sticks, or bulky browns to create an air channel for passive aeration.’

You can get a roll of hardware cloth at Amazon to create your compost chimney.

‘If you do decide to add an aeration tube, choose food-grade, garden-safe materials to avoid potential leaching,’ she adds.

When it comes to some potential materials, Lauren does warn: ‘Little is known about what will happen if a PVC tube interacts with a hot compost pile for an extended period of time and what types of microplastics or chemicals may leech.’

If you prefer plastic alternatives in the garden, you can opt for the coarse sticks method, as Lauren mentioned above. To do this, you may bundle woody stem prunings, tree branches, or bamboo sticks (you can get bamboo plant stakes at Walmart) together and insert them into the center of the pile.

The bunding will create the required air gaps, and woody plant stems can be chopped up later and added to the compost.

Shop Composting Essentials

Lauren Click from Let's Go Compost says that compost chimneys should be seen as ‘complementary’ to turning compost, rather than a replacement or alternative to turning a pile.

Regularly turning and mixing compost aerates the pile and helps to speed up the decomposition process. This kind of mechanical aeration keeps a pile healthy and should be seen as a regular part of your composting process, even if you add a compost chimney.

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Composting is a brilliant way to recycle household waste and turn it into something nutritious for your yard without spending a dime. If you are thinking about ways to garden more sustainably in 2026, this is a simple and super effective way to start. But as good as this sounds, there are many things that you should never add to your compost bin.

Certain items break down really well whereas others, including dairy products, meats and cardboard, will not only ruin your good compost, but also begin to smell and attract harmful bacteria.

To help you avoid the worst composting mistakes, we spoke to experts in gardening and horticulture to learn about some of the items that should never be put into your compost bin, as well as why. We cover how to make compost the right way, and where to safely dispose of non-compostable waste.

1. Weeds that Have Gone to Seed

Weeds that have gone to seed are actively looking to repopulate around your yard, which is the last thing you want. Placing weeds on your compost pile or in your compost bin after working hard to remove them from the garden is a major weeding mistake, as they'll begin to sprout again in your compost.

Jenny Rose Carey, a professional horticulturist, author and gardener, says, 'Placing weeds, especially those that have gone to seed, in your compost bin will cause them to resprout. If you spread the finished compost on your beds you may then spread the weeds around your garden as well.'

The collapsible 30 gallon garden waste bucket from Amazon is a great addition to your yard to collect weeds for recycling. It's large, washable and durable.

If you have a trash can for garden waste, the easiest way to dispose of weeds environmentally is to place them in there. Alternatively, if you research your local recycling sites, you can find somewhere that will take your weeds to compost mechanically.

'In order to compost weeds they need to be at a really high temperature, and your compost heap may not get to a high enough temperature to kill them and, in turn, make compost,' says Jenny.

2. Produce Stickers

Many store-bought fruits and vegetables come with small produce stickers attached, even when they’re sold loose or in additional packaging.

These labels are typically made from plastic or plastic-coated materials designed to withstand moisture, meaning they won’t break down in a home compost bin.

Because of their size, produce stickers are easy to overlook when food scraps are added to compost. However, once mixed in, they remain intact long after the organic matter has decomposed, contaminating finished compost with bits of plastic that are difficult to remove.

Over time, this can reduce the quality of your compost and introduce microplastics into your garden soil.

'Produce stickers are commonly forgotten about when people add their vegetable or fruit peelings to their compost. Being made from non-biodegradable material in most cases, the labels won't break down and you'll end up with trashy material in your compost,' says Andrew Miano, senior horticulturist at Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co.

One of the easiest ways to avoid this mistake is to remove all produce stickers as soon as groceries are brought into the house and dispose of them in the trash.

Making it a habit to check and strip labels at the unpacking stage helps prevent them from ever reaching the compost bin, saving time and ensuring your compost remains clean, natural, and garden-ready.

3. Oil, Dairy and Meat

Rich fatty food items like oils, dairy products and leftover meats will actually deteriorate the quality of your good compost, and while they break down they will produce a ghastly odor. They are definitely among the key things to never add to your compost bin.

Jodi Danyo, founder and CEO of Cherry Valley Organics, says, 'The problem with adding these to compost is that these oils and fats will form a coating around vegetable materials and significantly slow down the decomposition process. These foods may also attract rodents such as rats in your yard, and unwanted insects to live in the pile.'

Ofra Gaito, CEO of plant company Verdant Lyfe, adds, 'Adding meat scraps, grease or dairy products to your compost pile can also disrupt the composting process as they decompose slowly and ineffectively in themselves.'

You're far better off leaving these out of your compost and disposing of them in the garbage.

You can purchase rolls of biodegradable trash bags like the 110 count aklyaiap small biodegradable trash bags from Amazon if you're still seeking to keep a green thumb.

4. Walnuts, Shells or Hulls

Nuts are a tasty snack packed with protein and essential amino acids but hidden behind their super-food qualities are toxic chemicals that could kill your plants.

Sally McCabe, associate director of community education at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, says, 'Certain kinds of nuts including walnuts contain juglone when breaking down, a chemical toxic to many plants, especially tomatoes.'

If you mix this chemical in with your compost heap and spread the compost onto your plants, you could cause harm.

'Juglone breaks down over time, so If you are blessed with large quantities of walnuts, you can compost them separately and leave them break down for at least a year to produce compost on their own,' says Sally.

You could keep your walnuts and other nuts containing juglone, including but not limited to pecans, butternuts and black walnuts, in a little composting bin like the utopia kitchen compost bin from Amazon, ideal to keep sat indoors to stash your leftovers. This way, you'll still be zero-waste and your other plants will stay safe.

5. Unrinsed Eggshells

Eggshells are great to reuse in many areas of horticulture to bring your garden to life, from composting to feeding to chickens as a source of grit.

However, if you don't rinse your eggshells clean before adding them into your compost bin you're likely to encourage bad odors and flies.

Jessica Mercer, senior content marketing coordinator and plant expert at Plant Addicts, says, 'Eggs can cause the same problems as dairy products in your compost, releasing unpleasant odors that attract pests. If you rinse them and crush them up though, they are a great source of calcium for your compost.'

You can crush eggshells using your hands but if you'd rather not handle the shell, we recommend using a small mortar and pestle like the tera 18/8 stainless steel mortal and pestle from Amazon.

Don't forget to wash your hands after crushing the shells of eggs to reduce the risk of spreading salmonella.

6. Diseased Plants

Similarly to weeds, diseased plants should never be added to a home compost bin, as doing so can encourage the spread of infections to other plants.

Fungal spores, bacterial pathogens, and viral infections can survive in compost that doesn’t reach sufficiently high temperatures, meaning your careful garden work could be undone.

'If your compost doesn't get hot enough the disease plants will survive,' says Andrew Miano. 'A better-safe-than-sorry approach to composting diseased plants is best, otherwise you might end up with invasive plants spreading.'

In most backyard compost bins, temperatures rarely reach the levels needed to reliably kill disease-causing organisms. For this reason, it’s safest to dispose of affected material elsewhere.

Bringing diseased plants to a council recycling point allows them to be composted in large industrial piles or incinerated, where heat and scale ensure pathogens are destroyed. If that isn’t possible, placing diseased material in the garbage is a safer alternative than risking contamination in your own compost.

Always remember to protect your hands and skin with good quality gardening gloves, such as these ones from Amazon, when handling diseased plants.

'Their composting facility is huge and the size of the pile means that it heats up to a much higher temperature than my small heap,' adds Jenny.

As a preventative measure, always inspect plants before adding clippings or leaves to your compost, and avoid including plants showing any signs of disease. Keeping a small bin strictly for healthy garden waste can reduce the risk of contamination and protect the overall health of your garden.

7. Onions, Garlic and Citrus Peel

Small quantities of onion, garlic and citrus peel in your compost bin are fine when it comes to using kitchen waste in the garden, but if you add a lot, the same qualities of these vitamin-rich foods that benefit us will bring harm to your compost's soil.

'Onions, garlic and citrus peels are natural insecticides, antibiotics or even (with citrus) cleaning products,' says Sally. 'A little bit of these items in your compost is ok, but more than a small amount can cut down on the beneficial microbial action in your compost bin and make your soil acidic.'

Instead, take some time to look into how the like of orange peels are good for plants, and seek to use them elsewhere. If all else fails, citrus peels make lovely simmer pots if boiled in water, and leftover onion and garlic can be turned into powder if it hasn't gone bad. This will increase the item's shelf life and result in less waste in the future.

You can grind up onion and garlic after it's been dehydrated to produce a powder. The portable elite gourmet food dehydrator from Amazon, is able to dehydrate five trays of produce at a time.

8. Treated Grass Clippings

Grass clippings are incredibly versatile and have many uses in the garden, from keeping plant beds covered during colder months to enriching compost with nitrogen-rich material.

However, these benefits only apply if the grass has not been treated with herbicides or chemical fertilizers.

'If you place grass clippings that were treated with herbicides in your compost pile, then it's possible that the chemicals will be present in your final compost and kill your garden plants when used,' says Jodi Danyo.

'If you wish to use your grass clippings around your yard, try growing your lawn organically, without petroleum-based, chemical herbicides or fertilizers.'

Herbicide residues can persist in the soil for weeks or even months, depending on the chemical, meaning that seemingly harmless clippings can unintentionally harm vegetables, flowers, and other plants once added to compost or used as mulch.

To avoid this, only collect clippings from lawns that have been maintained organically, or wait at least 2–4 weeks after any chemical treatment before using them.

For extra peace of mind, consider composting treated grass separately, far from edible plants, or use it in non-vegetable areas like flower borders or pathways. This ensures your compost and garden beds remain safe, healthy, and free from harmful chemical residues.

9. Pet Waste from Meat-Eating Animals

It makes sense to believe that all pet waste belongs in a compost pile, but this waste can carry throngs of bacteria that isn't healthy to keep around your garden or near to your home.

'Pet waste from meat-eaters can carry harmful bacteria and parasites, such as roundworms, which can survive in the compost and pose health risks,' says Jessica Mercer.

Including this waste in your yard will also make your compost smell bad.

It's safest to dispose of pet waste from meat-eating animals in your general trash, tied in scented waste bags such as these, from Amazon. Rabbit droppings, however, are safe to add into your compost heap.

10. Bones

Bones from finished meaty dinners don't belong in your compost heap as they will do the opposite of speed up composting. So, instead, keep them for animals that are carnivores to chew or enjoy or dispose of them in your general trash.

'You want to be careful not to add anything that could negatively affect your plants when you eventually use the finished compost in your garden,' says Ofra.

Putting bones into the mix will result in bitty compost, as they will just stay in the soil for up to hundreds of years.

In addition to slowing down the composting process, bones can attract pests such as rats, raccoons, or foxes if your compost bin is accessible outdoors, and they can produce unpleasant odors as they start to decompose.

If you're new to composting, and are concerned about how a compost bin or area might look in your yard, you might like our guide to composting made stylish. It has lots of ideas on how to cleverly disguise or screen a bin, so that is doesn't spoil the look of your outdoor space.

Maintaining compost over winter is also something many people forget to do, but it's really useful to keep a check on yours to make sure it stays in top condition for spring.

Composting in fall can seem quite daunting, as the colder temperatures work against decomposition. However, many gardeners actually see fall as the best time of year for composting, with an abundance of organic materials to add to your heap. There's one particular ingredient experts claim is the ultimate fall compost boost: holiday leftovers.

Vegetable scraps, bread, and plant-based foods are all valuable when it comes to making your own compost, and it's a super simple way to practice sustainable gardening this season. They add plenty of 'green' materials, essential for keeping a compost pile active by infusing lots of nitrogen in the heap. This is especially beneficial in fall to balance out the large quantity of 'brown' materials found in garden waste at this time of year.

It isn't as easy as throwing food waste in your compost bin, though. There are some composting mistakes you need to be aware of when using this ingredient. Here, composting experts explain why holiday leftovers are the ultimate fall compost boost and how to compost them correctly this season.

Why are fall holiday leftovers good for compost?

'Holiday meal leftovers are one of the best materials you can add to your compost pile in the fall,' says Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

'They tend to be rich in nitrogen and provide the 'green' boost your compost needs to balance against the abundance of dry fall compost additions (like leaves, sticks, and any other plants that have died in the cold weather),' she explains.

While ticking essential tasks off your fall gardening checklist, you're likely to do a lot of hardwood pruning that leaves you with a large amount of carbon-rich materials. Food scraps then add a sufficient amount of nitrogen-rich material for active microbial activity to take place.

'When layered correctly with shredded leaves or paper, these scraps heat up the pile, keeping decomposition active even as temperatures drop,' Lauren explains.

It's the easiest fall and winter composting hack, maintaining temperatures needed for decomposition (which you can monitor with this compost thermometer from Amazon).

And not only will these leftovers speed up composting during fall, they will also leave you with a compost full of essential plant nutrients to support healthy growth.

'The variety of vegetables, bread, and other plant-based foods typically left over from big holiday gatherings in fall adds valuable diversity to the compost, which leads to healthier, more nutrient-rich soil in the spring,' Lauren explains.

How to compost holiday leftovers

It isn't as easy as just throwing your leftovers in your compost bin. Some careful consideration needs to go into choosing which leftovers to use.

This is because there are some things to never add to your compost bin, such as walnuts and shells which can sometimes contain toxins that can harm plant growth, and oil, dairy, and meat, which could attract rats to your yard and hinder the quality of your compost.

Instead, choose fruit and vegetable scraps, bread, pasta, and grains. You can also compost the contents of tea bags and coffee grounds.

You should cut up larger scraps into smaller pieces, which will help them break down more quickly.

As for layering, it's key to get the 3:1 brown-green ratio right for composting to be successful. You want three parts brown to one part green, which is easy to achieve at this time of year when using the mixture of browns from the garden and the fall compost boost of leftovers for greens.

'Straw bales, pine cones, acorns, natural wreaths, and paper decorations are all sources of brown materials for composting in fall, too,' Lauren notes.

'Fall is a great time to supercharge your compost with shredded leaves,' adds Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost.

Once you collect fallen leaves, use a garden shredder (from Amazon) or your lawn mower to shred them up and add them into your compost as a brown material.

FAQs

Can you compost sauces and gravy?

It's generally best not to compost sauces and gravy as part of the food scraps going in your compost bin. This is because they likely contain fats and oils that can attract pests to your yard and hinder the quality of your compost. If you have vegetable scraps with residue of sauces on them, give them a rinse before adding them to your compost heap.

There are lots of other sources of compost materials during fall. For example, you can compost pumpkins and gourds after using them as decorations (so long as they don't have plastic embellishments or things like glitter and paint on them).

When we later transition into winter, you may find our guide to stop compost freezing in winter helpful. The below composting accessories can also help during this time of year:

As a first-time composter, I'm on the hunt for the best methods to make my efforts successful. That's why I've been deciding between the layering vs turning compost techniques.

Both layering and turning can be used to make compost, but in different ways. The former refers to how materials are added to the heap, while the latter is to do with regularly rotating the materials for aeration.

But, which one is more efficient? To find out more, I spoke to composting experts. Here, they explain how each technique works and which method is preferred for a more efficient approach.

What's the difference between layering vs turning compost?

No matter which method you use, layering vs turning, both require following the basics of composting in order to avoid composting mistakes. This includes getting the ratio of green-brown materials right and ensuring there is sufficient airflow to keep the heap aerobic.

With that in mind, here's how each technique works:

The layering compost technique

The layering compost technique is exactly what it says: layering compost materials. But, it isn't as simple as chucking any materials in any order in your compost bin.

'Layering is a passive composting method where materials are added in alternating layers, typically 'greens' (wet, nitrogen-rich materials like food scraps) and 'browns' (dry, carbon-rich materials like leaves or cardboard),' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost. 'It mimics the natural decomposition process,' she adds.

This is a similar passive approach to lazy composting, a method of simply creating a pile of decomposing material in your yard.

'Each layer serves a purpose: greens feed microbes, and browns provide structure and air pockets,' Lauren says.

'This method creates a balanced carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and allows microbes to break down materials over time. Moisture and oxygen move slowly through the pile, and decomposition happens without much disturbance,' she adds.

You can use a standard compost bin (from Amazon) for the layering technique or make a compost bin from pallets for a larger heap.

The turning compost technique

The main difference in layering vs turning compost is the latter is a more active approach. It requires you to regularly turn the compost, a common method of speeding up composting.

'Turning is an active composting method where the pile is physically mixed, either with a pitchfork, shovel, worms, or tumbler,' Lauren explains. 'This redistributes materials, breaks up clumps, reintroduces oxygen, and speeds up microbial activity,' she adds.

As Lauren notes, there are a few ways to turn a compost pile. Compost tumblers (like the compost tumbler from Amazon) are popular because they have a mechanism that makes it easy to turn the pile. Or, you could use this compost aerating tool from Amazon to mix materials in a standard bin or open pile.

'Compost piles need to be turned to make sure there is enough oxygen in the pile, since composting is aerobic decomposition,' explains Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost.

'A tumbler should be turned every three-to-five days and open pile should be turned about once a week,' she suggests.

Layering vs turning compost: which is better?

While there's no doubt both layering and turning will allow you to turn organic waste into 'Black Gold' for use in the yard, there is one that stands out as the more efficient method.

'Turning is more efficient if your goal is fast, high-heat composting (hot composting), especially in managed systems,' says Lauren. 'It can produce finished compost in as little as four-to-six weeks under ideal conditions.

'Layering is better for low-maintenance, low-labor systems (cold composting), though it tends to take much longer,' she adds.

Not only does it tend to be speedier, but turning compost will also keep your pile aerobic and help stop compost smelling bad.

Alongside turning, you can make composting more efficient by maintaining the 3:1 brown-green ratio, even when using unusual compost ingredients, and not letting your pile dry out.

'Keep compost as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Too dry slows microbes, too wet causes rot,' Lauren notes.

Nevertheless, layering is still a valid method of composting that works, you just need a little patience.

'If layering, avoid compacting layers too tightly. Break up any paper and cardboard so it doesn’t compact,' Lauren advises.

FAQs

Is it possible to turn compost too much?

Yes, it is possible to overturn compost. This is especially true when your compost pile is generating heat and is actively decomposing. Turning too frequently can disrupt microbial activity, allow too much heat to escape, and may cause the pile to dry out more quickly, all of which slow down the decomposition process.

'Once every week or two is usually enough,' says Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

Layering and turning compost are just two methods of composting to try. There are so many other ways to compost you can also explore, for example Bokashi composting and using a wormery for compost. No matter which method you adopt, make sure to avoid things to never compost for best results.

Shop composting essentials

Although composting is a rewarding thing to do as a gardener, many novices are a little nervous to get started because it's a bit of a science and can be a messy, smelly addition to the yard. However, making your own 'Black Gold' doesn't have to be overly complicated. In fact, there is a set of composting myths experts say should be ignored.

Of course, to make your own compost you need to follow a few rules to be successful. But, generally speaking, it's a lot more straightforward than it's often made out to be. Of course, there are some composting mistakes to avoid, but composting experts say many of the rumors are wrong: composting doesn't have to be tricky, dirty, or unpleasant.

Here, they debunk several composting myths that are holding many gardeners back. If you're struggling to master composting in your yard, it might just be that you've listened to one of these false statements about composting and need to make some adjustments.

7 composting myths debunked

Whether you're lazy composting or hot composting in your yard, experts say not to be tricked into believing these composting myths. Many of them can slow down the decomposition process and leave you with compost less than usable.

1. It takes forever to turn food scraps into compost

One thing that often puts gardeners off composting is the perceived time it takes to get mature, crumbly compost to use in the yard. But, the truth is, it doesn't have to take an age to get there.

'Composting speed depends on what you’re adding, how much air and water are in the pile, and how often you turn it.' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

'If you keep a good balance of greens (like food scraps) and browns (like dry leaves), keep it moist like a wrung-out sponge, and turn it every one or two weeks, you can get finished compost in about two-to-three months,' she explains.

Doing these things will actually help speed up composting, too, as well as using a few tools:

'For small homes, a compost tumbler or wormery compost bin can speed things up while keeping the process clean,' Lauren notes.

Hot compost piles will break down even quicker, so consider using methods to heat up compost heaps and use this compost thermostat from Amazon to keep track of temperatures in your pile.

2. Compost attracts rodents

If you work hard to keep rats away from your yard, you might be unsure about making compost. However, experts say correct composting won't attract rodents.

'Composting the right way, should not attract rodents. Avoid cakes, breads, pastries, meat, bones, dairy, and some other unusual composting ingredients,' says Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost.

'Chop your fruits and veggies really small and be sure to add enough carbon on top,' she adds. This will bury any potential food sources for rats and speed up the decomposition rate. Plus, it will keep bad odors away, lessening the likelihood of rats coming to investigate.

Although, Charles Dowding's composting tips note it isn't the end of the world if rats do get into your compost. In a way, their movement through compost can aerate it and keep it aerobic, essential for successful composting.

You can also try growing mouse repellent plants near your compost bin to deter rats and mice. These marigold plants from Walmart are an effective one to choose.

3. Compost piles smell bad

It's a common misconception that compost piles smell bad. The truth is, they will give off unpleasant odors if not managed correctly, but you can do multiple things to stop compost smelling bad.

'A smelly pile usually means it’s too wet or has too much food waste without enough browns,' explains Lauren. 'If your pile smells sour or rotten, mix in dry carbon-rich materials like shredded paper, sawdust, or leaves.'

Making sure your heap stays aerobic is also important to keep bad odors at bay.

'Aerating the pile (turning it once a week) prevents odors by keeping the microbes oxygenated. When balanced properly, compost should smell like forest soil,' Lauren adds.

You can either use a compost tumbler (from Amazon) to aerate your pile or essential gardening tools like this compost aerator tool from Amazon.

4. You need multiple compost bins to get it right

It's true that having multiple compost bins will allow you to be more efficient (by filling one bin and turning it into the next to start making another heap simultaneously), but you can be just as successful with making compost in a singular bin.

'For home composters, a single well-managed pile or bin works fine. You can keep adding scraps to one side while using finished compost from the other, or just let it fill, stop adding, and start a second bin later if needed,' Lauren notes.

You should, however, make sure your compost bin is at least 3x3x3 ft for effective decomposition. This is particularly something to keep in mind when making a DIY compost bin.

This compost tumbler from Amazon has a dual chamber, offering a space-saving solution that allows you to have two heaps on the go at once.

5. You can only compost outdoors

When you think of composting, you might have the image of a large pallet bin set up in a grassy landscape of a backyard, but it is just as possible to compost successfully indoors – and without mess, too.

'Vermicomposting is composting with worms and it can be easily done indoors. In fact. worms are happiest at 40-80°F, so an indoor environment is ideal,' Colleen notes.

'Bokashi composting can be also done indoors. Bokashi uses specialized bacteria to begin the process of breaking down food waste. It then is buried in the soil to finish decomposing,' she explains.

You can also start collecting food scraps for composting with a kitchen countertop compost bin (from Amazon). This electric compost bin from Walmart will shred the materials, ready for decomposition.

You can likewise use similar methods for composting in a balcony garden, where space is limited.

6. You can compost anything organic

While you might think composting is as easy as chucking any organic material into the heap, experts urge you to check your materials before adding them in.

'Not everything that grows should go in your compost. Avoid weeds that have gone to seed, diseased plants, or food covered in oil or chemicals,' Lauren says. 'These can cause problems in a home pile.'

Using these items could result in contaminated compost, passing on harmful chemicals to your plants and even spreading weeds among your planting.

'It's safest to stick to veggie scraps, coffee grounds, eggshells, paper, and garden waste. If in doubt, leave it out,' Lauren advises.

Our guide to things to never add to your compost bin will help you avoid certain harmful materials.

7. Compostable packaging breaks down in home bins

If you like eco-friendly garden ideas and sustainable living more widely, you might opt for items with packaging that is labeled 'compostable.' But, this doesn't mean it will just break down in a compost heap typical to backyards.

'Most bioplastics and 'compostable' takeout containers need high heat and long processing times that home systems can’t provide,' Lauren explains. 'Unless it’s labeled 'home compostable,' skip these items from your pile. Even some certified products won’t break down fully in a backyard pile. Focus on food scraps, paper, and yard waste instead.'

Nevertheless, it's still a good idea to opt for biodegradable packaging where possible. When disposed of correctly, it will go to industrial compost to breakdown. For example, not all tea bags are compostable, but these tea bags from Amazon are biodegradable.

FAQs

Does home composting really make a difference?

There is some debate around how much of an impact composting has on wider sustainable efforts, but Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost urges all gardeners to keep composting at home:

'Food scraps sent to the landfill break down without oxygen and release methane, a potent greenhouse gas. When you compost at home, you cut climate emissions, create free fertilizer, and reduce your trash. Multiply that across a neighborhood and the impact adds up fast,' she explains.

Now these composting myths have been debunked, you can consider starting a compost heap this spring and summer. This is an ideal time to start composting, with excess garden waste to use. But you can still start a compost heap at any time of year. Why not try adding festive waste you can compost this winter?

Composting essentials to get you started

Composting is a great thing to take on as a gardener. It uses up waste and provides you with a homemade, nutrient-rich growing matter for your yard. But, if you find your compost heap is not heating up, there's likely something that needs adjusting in your composting regime.

Making compost is a science, requiring the right balance of green and brown materials, sufficient but not too much moisture, air circulation, and warmth. When any one of these elements are missing, it can be tricky to turn organic waste into 'black gold.' This is especially true if you find your compost heap lacks warmth, a sign there is a lack of decomposition and microbial activity happening.

Don't fret, though, composting experts have shared with me five causes for this issue and how to resolve it. It's likely you're just making a composting mistake that can be quickly rectified.

5 reasons your compost heap isn't heating up

Whether you've accidentally used things to never add to your compost bin, or you've forgotten to turn your heap, there's usually a logical explanation for a compost heap not heating up. The good news is each issue can be easily fixed and soon your compost thermometer (from Amazon) will show temperatures rising again.

1. You've got the wrong carbon-nitrogen ratio

Whether you use unusual compost ingredients or the most common materials, the most vital thing to get right when composting is the carbon-nitrogen ratio.

Carbon materials are 'browns' while nitrogen materials are 'greens.' The right ratio to maintain when making compost is three parts brown to one part green. This provides an optimal environment for microbial activity, which subsequently heats up your heap.

'A pile with too much brown material (carbon, like dried leaves or cardboard) and not enough green material (nitrogen, like food scraps or grass clippings) will decompose slowly,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

Luckily, there's a really easy solution to this: adjust the ratio by adding more green or brown materials as needed.

'If your pile looks dry, it likely has too much carbon. Add more green material like grass clippings or food scraps. If it smells sour or like ammonia, add browns like shredded cardboard or straw,' Lauren advises.

'Many coffee shops also pass out free used coffee grounds, which are great for heating up a compost pile (and for helping keep them out of the trash and landfills),' she adds. Try adding in your own coffee grounds, too, like from these Starbucks coffee beans at Walmart.

As Lauren notes, getting this ratio right won't only heat up a compost pile, but will also stop compost smelling bad.

2. Your compost pile is too dry

A compost heap not heating up can also be due to dryness. Too little moisture will slow down the decomposition rate, and therefore your heap will lack heat.

'Microorganisms require water to break down organic matter. A dry pile inhibits microbial function,' Lauren says.

'It should be like a damp sponge,' adds Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost.

As mentioned above, too many brown materials can dry out a compost heap, but so can exposure to sunny, hot weather. For this reason, you should use a moisture meter (from Amazon) to monitor moisture levels.

If your compost is too dry, it's a simple case of picking up a garden hose (from Walmart) or watering can (from Amazon).

'Add water until the pile feels like a wrung-out sponge. If you squeeze it and it drips, it’s too wet. If it crumbles, it’s too dry,' Lauren advises.

If your compost has become too wet after watering, one of composting expert Charles Dowding's compost tips is to spread it out to let some air in and allow excess moisture to evaporate.

3. Your compost heap needs aerating

Air circulation is key to successful composting. A lack of aeration won't only cause a lack of warmth, but it will cause an unpleasant smell, attract pests, and slow down the composting process.

'Decomposition is driven by aerobic microbes that require oxygen, so compacted or poorly turned pile will not heat,' Lauren explains.

That's why it's important to regularly turn your compost pile, either with a gardening tool like a garden fork (from Amazon) or a composting aerator tool (from Amazon). You might even opt for a compost tumbler to make this easier. This compost tumbler from Wayfair has a double barrel for a larger capacity of compost materials.

'Use a pitchfork or aerator tool weekly to fluff the pile and redistribute material from the edges to the center.' Lauren advises.

4. Your compost heap is too small

Another reason you may find your compost heap not heating up is that it's too small. While it's true you can have compost piles of all different sizes, they need to be sufficiently sized for microbial activity to be effective.

'Small piles (under 3x3x3ft) lose heat too quickly and cannot retain the microbial-generated warmth required for hot composting,' Lauren says.

This means even if you're getting your brown-green ratio right, regularly turn your pile, and keep moisture levels up, it won't warm up enough for consistent decomposition.

To resolve this issue, increase the size of your compost pile so it stays insulated.

'Combine multiple compost bins or feedstock piles into one larger mass to create sufficient microbial density and thermal mass,' Lauren says.

'A pile 3x3x3ft or larger should be big enough,' says Colleen Falicki. Keep this in mind when building a DIY compost bin from wooden pallets (from Amazon).

5. Your compost heap needs extra insulation

Another cause behind a compost heap that won't heat up is seasonal weather. It may just be that it is too cold and your heap is struggling to stay warm, a common problem when trying to maintain compost in winter.

'Seasonal or regional cold weather can slow biological activity unless the pile is insulated or actively managed,' Lauren notes.

'Use insulation like straw bales, tarp covers (from Walmart), or compost fleece to trap heat in winter. Alternatively, hot water bottles or passive solar setups can help retain warmth,' she adds.

You can also try adding cardboard to the sides of your compost bin to trap heat in, so long as you don't block airflow altogether. There are plenty of winter composting hacks that can aid compost insulation during the coldest time of year.

FAQs

How hot should my compost pile be?

Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost, says: 'Compost should be approximately 130-160°F.' Any hotter can kill the beneficial microbes helping to break materials down, while too cool can slow down microbial activity. If you're using a wormery for compost, however, the temperature needs to be cooler so the worms aren't killed off. Aim for 55-77°F in this case. You can keep on top of temperature levels with this compost thermometer from Amazon.

Getting a compost heap to heat up is all about getting all the essential elements in the right balance. Plus, all of the above tips will help speed up composting.

If you're struggling to keep your compost pile warm in winter, you might find out tips and tricks to stop compost freezing in winter useful.

I recently moved from an apartment to a house with a garden and now that I have this outdoor space, I'm keen to make my own compost. It's no secret that getting composting right is a bit of a science, so I'm hunting for tools that can lend a helping hand and make the process easier. A tumbling compost bin is at the top of my list and I just found a beginner-friendly dual chamber compost tumbler at Wayfair – and it's currently 57% off in the Memorial Day sales.

If you're also starting to make compost in your yard, then you might find a compost tumbler the ideal set up for you. It makes it convenient to keep your compost aerated, by simply turning it using the mechanism. A bonus about this Wayfair compost tumbler is it has two chambers, so you can have two batches of compost on the go.

The customer reviews are also promising, with shoppers noting it's straightforward to assemble, keeps pests away, and makes first-time composting a breeze. Here's everything you need to know about this Memorial Day home sale bargain and why you also need to get it in your shopping basket while this huge discount lasts.

The benefits of a compost tumbler

The main reason I'm seeking a compost tumbler over a static compost bin or even a DIY compost bin is it helps prevent common composting mistakes. More specifically, you can't get the volume size wrong and it automatically keeps your compost aerated.

Firstly, for a compost pile to heat up and stay productive, it needs to be at least 3x3x3ft in size, and the 43 gallon capacity of this Wayfair compost tumbler is more than enough. Once full, it the decomposition process should be speedy.

Secondly, the air vents around the barrel of this compost tumbler allow for constant air flow. This will stop compost smelling bad, keeping your compost heap aerobic. Plus, the fact it has an easy mechanism to turn the pile makes it far less strenuous than using tools to manually turn it.

Not only this, but I'm also enticed by the idea of keeping my compost heap elevated above the ground and enclosed. It makes it more tricky for rodents and other pests to get in and will keep my compost neatly tucked away in a corner of my yard.

With easy access to the chambers with latched orange doors, you can simply dispense your unusual compost ingredients, food waste, and other organic materials into it to start the composting process. Of course, you still have to make sure you have the right brown-green material ratio (3:1) for composting to work.

Another bonus if you want to keep clean while composting is this tumbler comes with clawed gardening gloves. This is an essential gardening tool you can also use for digging, weeding, and planting elsewhere in the yard.

The one drawback of this Wayfair compost tumbler is it's a little pricey, but I think it's worth it for its durable weather-resistant, UV-resistant materials, and I'm expecting it to last for a long time in my garden. Plus, I'll be saving hundreds on compost by making my very own with this tumbler instead.

What customers are saying

At the time of writing, this Wayfair compost tumbler is rated 4.7 stars with some happy customers leaving reviews.

One customer said: 'This is the best item I have ever received from Wayfair. I’m mind [blown] [about] the quality for the price. It spins absolutely beautifully and is so smooth. It feels incredibly high end and so sturdy. It went together in under 20 minutes and I can’t wait to start composting!'

Although, it should be noted some customers suggest two people are needed for assembly: 'It was fairly easy to assemble. It is easier and faster with two people. You will need a wrench, which doesn’t come with the kit, to help get all the nuts and bolts tightened.'

This wrench from Amazon should help get the job done.

Besides construction and quality getting a tick, shoppers have also expressed how easy it is to use when making compost.

'It does speed up composting a bit as it’s so easy to turn, but I do miss being able to break up pieces with a shovel. Also helps with smell too! Still 5 stars, would recommend,' one reviewer said.

And as for keeping rats away from the yard, '[It] keeps the animals out and great for my garden,' a satisfied customer said.

Many shoppers also seem to enjoy the eco-friendly gardening aspect of using this Wayfair compost tumbler:

'We are excited to throw away less waste and instead add it to our compost bin.' one reviewer said. 'This is a great environmental addition to our yard,' another wrote.

Don't forget to pick up these composting essentials, too

Once you have your new compost tumbler set up, don't forget to read up on how to maintain compost over winter so you can stop compost freezing when the coldest season comes around. Luckily, there are plenty of winter composting hacks to help you out.

Compost is a vital part of any good garden, providing nutrient-rich fertilizer from household waste that would otherwise end up in a landfill.

However, there are four different types of composter out there and it isn't obvious which bin best suits which type of garden. Some bins can cost hundreds of dollars, which seems like a lot when you consider that they're usually just panels of plastic or cedar.

I spoke to a range of gardening experts about how to buy a compost bin. The pros gave me lots of tips about each type of bin, the size of the bin you need, and how much to spend. Here's what they said:

1. Plastic compost bins

The most common and cost-effective compost bin is a plastic bin. You can find these bins in any hardware store or farm supply store, and they're the cheapest type of compost bin. They're lightweight, so they're easy to set up. When empty, a plastic compost bin only weighs a few pounds, so its easy to place wherever you need. Lots of plastic bins are made of recycled plastic, too.

Plant nursery expert Tammy Sons says 'Plastic bins are lightweight and durable, as well as eco-friendly, but they may retain moisture because they are less breathable.'

Yard expert Jeremy Yamaguchi agrees and says 'Plastic compost bins are some of the cheapest, which is arguably their biggest benefit, and they can get the job done.'

However, plastic bins have drawbacks. They aren't as strong as wood bins, so they're liable to burst if you overfill them, which can be a gross problem to clean. Yard expert Ryan Farley says 'Though I see and recommend plastic bins the most, they can also be a less durable option, since plastic degrades especially when it’s exposed to the moisture and heat generated by compost.'

On top of that, they're the stinkiest bin you can buy. Jeremy says 'Plastic compost bins are some of the smelliest. Other materials can trap the bad smells of compost far more effectively than plastic.' Plastic bins are especially bad for this smell because they close tight. While that's good for keeping out rodents and raccoons, it seals in moisture. Too much moisture is bad for compost as it stops the decomposition process, but it's also the perfect condition for bad-smelling bacteria.

Health-conscious gardens should also beware of microplastics from plastic compost bins. Research into the phenomenon is still ongoing, but it appears that even BPA-free compost bins may leach microplastics into compost. If you're making compost to help you grow vegetables, it might be wise to use a different compost bin, as these plastics could end up in your vegetables.

2. Wood compost bins

The second most common compost bin is a wooden compost bin, and these have lots of great features.

Wooden compost bins are usually much larger than plastic bins, offering gallons more compost, so they're the best option if you have a large plot and lot of plants to fertilize. They're made from renewable material which doesn't leach microplastic, and they don't trap moisture like a plastic bin, so they don't smell as bad.

Garden expert Manny Barra says 'Made from renewable materials, wood compost bins are perfect for the eco-conscious gardener aiming for aesthetics and functionality. They also breathe better than plastic bins, helping you maintain the Goldilocks balance of moisture and airflow.'

You can also DIY a wooden compost bin. If you have boards, planks, or an old pallet left over from another project you can reuse this wood in a compost bin. It's simple DIY - all you need to do is nail together some planks into a wooden box. The easiest design is open, so you can get to the compost - just make three sides to the box instead of four so that you can get to the compost.

However, over time the wood will rot from the moisture in the compost, so wood compost bins may not last as long as plastic bins. Tammy Sons says 'Wooden bins, are breathable and eco-friendly, but in turn are less durable due to wood being able to rot over time.'

Ready-made wooden bins are more expensive than plastic bins, too. they usually cost $150-$200 dollars, whereas you can pick up a cheap plastic bin for around $50.

Wood compost bins are less secure than plastic compost bins, and if installed incorrectly they can introduce vermin to your yard. They're the perfect food source for raccoons and rats, and it can be very messy to clean up after them.

3. Hot compost bins

Hot compost bins speed up the composting process from a year to just three months. It's exactly as it sounds - Manny Barra says 'They rapidly turn your scraps into rich, dark compost, often within weeks thanks to their ability to generate high internal temperatures.'

Hot compost bins use highly insulative materials to ramp up the temperature in your compost to around 140°F. This hugely speeds up the process, and they're handy in winter when decomposition slows in cold temperatures. If you bought and installed a hot bin now, you could have compost in time for late spring.

However, they're the most expensive bins you can buy. An Aerobin like this at Burpee will set you back nearly $500. On top of that, they need a lot of work. You need to top them up and turn them every day, which isn't the most practical solution for most amateur gardeners.

Tammy Sons sums it up well: 'Hot bins speed up decomposition and work year-round, but can be quite costly and require near-constant monitoring for safety.'

4. Tumbler compost bins

You can also buy tumbling compost bins. These bins are drums on an axle. Unlike any other compost bin, where you have to turn the compost with a fork, a tumbler spins, saving you from turning it all over.

Manny Barra explains that 'Tumbler bins are the lazy gardener’s best friend; just give them a spin, and voilà, your compost mixes itself. They’re sealed tight, keeping nosy critters and unpleasant smells at bay, and their elevated design is a win for your back. Tumblers are also relatively speedy, turning scraps into compost in a matter of weeks.' Because they're lifted off the ground, it's harder for vermin to get into the bin.

However, these bins are small. The average size of a tumbler compost bin is at least half that of a plastic or wooden compost bin, so it won't work for larger gardens. They're also expensive for what they are; you can pay more than you would for a plastic compost bin and end up with half the compost. Tammy Sons says 'Tumblers are easy to mix and pest-proof but cannot hold as much compost and are also quite expensive.'

Tumbler compost bins aren't as good as they claim, either. They're usually faster than wooden or plastic bins but only by a couple of months - don't believe any claims that a tumbler bin can make compost in just four months.

5. Work out the size you need

Working out the size of the bin you need depends on several factors. The most important ones to consider are the size of your family; the amount of waste you all produce; and how much compost you need.

Ryan Farley explains that 'What size compost bin you’ll need can depend on a few different factors. I’ve seen this primarily be influenced by how much you’ll be putting into it, what type of materials you’ll be adding, and perhaps most importantly—how much of the “finished” compost you’ll be using.

If you're using a plastic or wooden bin, Ryan says 'I tend to recommend around a 3 x 3-foot square bin for starters. That’s a pretty basic starting size, and works well if you’re primarily composting things like kitchen scraps, cardboard, and some yard litter. If you’re going to be composting lots of yard scraps like grass clippings, leaves, etc, then you might want something a bit larger.'

However, a 3x3 footer bin will make a lot of compost. Full to the top, a cubic yard of composting material will reduce to roughly 130 gallons of compost. That's nearly 20 bags of compost - great for keen gardeners but might be overkill if you just have a couple of raised beds.

To this end, Tammy Sons says 'To get the most out of a compost bin, find one that matches the amount of household waste your home may produce. Smaller bins can hold the excess of one to two people, but medium and large bins can hold the waste of a family or an entire garden.' If you don't make that much waste, keep it small - you can always buy another bin if you need one, but it's harder to remove a big compost bin.

6. Know you budget

The best news is that compost bins are relatively cheap by garden product standards. Don't spend any more than $70 on a plastic bin, no more than $200 on a wood bin, and no more than $500 on a hot bin.

Manny Barra says 'There's no need to buy a hot bin that costs as much as a weekend getaway if you’re only tossing in a few coffee grounds. Remember, the goal is turning trash into treasure, not breaking the bank. A reasonable range is $50–$150, depending on your needs and the bin’s materials.'

Compost bins are just the start. Once your bin is set up, you need to know about the right ratio of green to brown material, as well as the unusual compost ingredients that make for surprisingly great fertilizer.

You might be familiar with regular garden composting, but have you ever heard of bokashi composting? Hailing from Japan, it is a space-efficient and faster alternative to traditional compost creation, where food waste is fermented before being added to the soil.

Because it is usually done in a small space in the home, it is perfect for city dwellers or anyone without space for an outdoor compost bin.

As with regular composting, it's ideal if you're looking to live more sustainably, and the pickled end result is a valuable source of nutrients for plants once it's broken down into the soil. But how does it work, and what are the benefits? We explain all, so you can try it at home.

What is bokashi composting?

Bokashi composting requires a special, air-tight bokashi bin (Amazon has a selection), which food scraps are scraped into. These small bins are perfect for keeping in the kitchen – in a cupboard under the sink, for instance.

All food types can be added, says the experts at Bokashi Living: 'If you eat it, it can go in the bin.' Ideally, chop it into small pieces first and avoid adding rotting food or excess liquids.

Every time you add food waste to the bin, you need to sprinkle 'bokashi bran', available from Amazon, (which contains lots of good bacteria) on top – around one tablespoon per inch. Once it's full, your bin is left to sit somewhere warm for two weeks. It's a good idea to have two bins – that way, you can add scraps to one while the other is busy fermenting.

The liquid it produces should be drained from the tap every other day during this fermentation time and works well for fertilizing plants – but bear in mind that it needs to be used straightaway, says Nick Kiss, the owner of Bokashi Living, in one of his informative Youtube videos. As it's strong, you will need to dilute it with water at a rate of 100:1, he adds. Otherwise, you can simply dispose of it down the sink – it's safe and environmentally friendly to do so.

After two weeks, the food waste should have fermented. A telltale sign is a pickle-like smell and, possibly, white mold.

What do you do with the fermented waste from bokashi composting?

It's important to note that the fermented food waste from bokashi composting is a 'pre-compost' and cannot be used for mulching your garden, unlike traditional compost.

Instead, it can be added to your existing worm composting system – it will speed up the process. You can also add it to your normal outdoor compost heap, where it will continue to break down quickly.

Alternatively, you can dig it into trenches in your garden, away from existing plants. Mix it up a little with the soil as you dig it in, and then bury it with more soil. After a couple of weeks, you can plant into it, or dig it up and spread it around your garden.

What are the benefits of bokashi composting?

'Bokashi compost is richer in effective microorganisms than any other form of compost,' says Nicki Casley, Partner of Bokashi Living. 'Just as microbes play an essential part in our own body's health, microbes also play an important part in the health of our soil and gardens. Simply put, plants thrive when the soil is full of beneficial microorganisms.

'For homeowners, food waste is the cream of the crop for feeding these microbes,' she continues. 'It has a much higher value for building healthy, bio-diverse soils than general yard trimmings.'

Another benefit of bokashi composting is how quickly it works, says Nick Kiss. The reason for this is the anaerobic (oxygen-free) environment it's made in, which means the decomposition occurs at a rapid pace. Although there are other alternatives that are faster than traditional composting – such as hot composting – with bokashi composting, food waste can break down in just a couple of weeks ready to be put outdoors.

It's also easier, says Nick, and will work with all food waste – meat and dairy included – unlike with regular composting. This means it's even more effective at reducing household waste and living a more sustainable lifestyle.

Last but not least, bokashi composting is perfect for plots with small gardens that don't have space for a regular outdoor compost bin. As mentioned, the compact bins can be kept indoors, tucked into a cupboard or on your kitchen sideboard.

FAQs

Does bokashi compost attract pests?

You may be worried about rats or other pests being attracted to your bokashi compost – but there is no reason to be. During the initial pre-composting (fermentation) phase, the bin is sealed, so no odors are released and no pests can get in. And you don't need to worry once it's added to your yard, as they are not attracted to the fermented waste.

Bokashi compost is very acidic, so it is not recommended for use as a houseplant fertilizer unless heavily diluted. If you're looking for more ways to improve your composting game, we reveal how to compost in winter, to have fresh nutrients ready for your plants in time for spring.

The cold weather can put us off spending time in our backyards, but it's important not to fall behind on essential garden tasks during the winter season. Compost, for example, needs to be maintained so you have sufficient material to work with by the time spring comes around.

If you haven't already looked into how to maintain compost over winter, there are a few things you need to do to ensure your heap stays productive in colder weather. Warmth is a requirement for successful composting because it stimulates the microbes that break down your materials. That's why you should take action to stop compost freezing in winter and keep your composting active. However, this can be much easier said than done.

Luckily, we've got a handful of winter composting hacks for your to try that will provide shortcuts and keep your composting moving during the harsher season.

5 winter composting hacks

Winter in the garden brings a range of challenges to composting, but these winter composting hacks will help speed up composting in cold conditions.

1. Use an electric composter to chop up materials

If you want things to break down more quickly in your compost bin, it's best to make your materials as small as possible. This exposes a larger surface area to microbes, making the decomposition process faster. This is especially beneficial in winter when the cold temperatures slow things down.

So, our first winter composting hack is to use an electric kitchen composter to cut up your food scrap materials - like this electric composter from Amazon.

'They break down food waste by drying and grinding it, producing a pre-compost material that still requires traditional composting to become nutrient-rich compost,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

'You should use the output as a nitrogen-rich 'green' material and add it to your outdoor compost bin or pile,' Lauren explains. Avoid composting mistakes by also ensuring to mix in carbon-rich 'brown' materials with it.

'Also don't assume the material is safe for direct application to soil as it may still contain partially decomposed food and salts. This can be toxic for plants and animals,' Lauren warns.

2. Insulate your compost bin

This is an essential to stop compost freezing, but insulation will also help retain heat to keep the compost heap productive. There are lots of ways to do this.

'Use straw bales, old blankets, or compost bin insulation kits to retain heat,' advises Lauren.

You can also use this cardboard from Amazon to insulate the walls and a tarp (from Walmart) to keep your bin covered.

Just take care to ensure there is still some airflow. This will stop your compost smelling bad and regulate temperatures so your heap doesn't dry out entirely.

3. Add worms to your compost

Our next winter composting hack involves some wriggly helpers. If you already use a wormery for compost, your heap will see the benefits as the outdoor temperatures start to drop. Worms help break materials down faster by feeding on them, so consider adding some worms to your pile in winter - this is also known as vermicomposting.

'Worms thrive in controlled environments, making vermicomposting an excellent indoor option for winter,' Lauren says.

One thing to note is you need to maintain a temperature between 50-77°F to keep the worms active. As Charles Dowding's composting tips point out, any higher or lower can kill the worms. It can help to place your wormery under shelter to do this, such as in a garage.

'Feed worms appropriately by chopping food scraps into small pieces and avoiding excessive citrus, meat, or dairy,' Lauren advises.

You can purchase red wigglers from Amazon to add to your compost.

4. Maintain compost moisture levels

Although excessive moisture is something to avoid in winter, as it can freeze, you don't want your compost drying out either. This will bring decomposition to a halt.

'Turn your compost occasionally and add water if the material feels dry,' Lauren suggests.

You can use this moisture meter from Amazon to assess how wet your compost pile is. If it is leaning towards the drier side, consider taking your hosepipe and adding in some water.

'Don't overwater because you want to avoid ice,' warns Andrew Hargest, founder of CompostClub.

5. Use hot composting techniques

You can do hot composting throughout the year, but it is particularly efficient as a winter composting hack for the obvious reason that it uses heat to break down even the most unusual compost ingredients.

'By closely managing the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (30:1), turning the pile regularly, and monitoring temperature, you can maintain a hot compost pile even in winter,' Lauren explains.

'Use a compost thermometer (from Amazon) to ensure the pile remains between 135-160°F for efficient decomposition. Make sure not to overload with one type of material - balance greens and browns carefully,' she advises.

FAQs

Where should I place my compost bin in winter?

For best results and to keep your compost heap productive during the coldest months, place your compost bin in the warmest spot of your yard. Try placing it somewhere it will be exposed to daytime sun and use methods of insulation to help your bin retain the heat it captures.

If you're researching winter composting hacks because you're new to composting, you'll be pleased to know that you can start a compost heap at any time of year. Although, many experts recommend starting in spring to make use of warmer temperatures, so you might want to consider holding on until then.

The many traditions of the holiday season brings a lot of waste that gets discarded in the garbage - from torn up wrapping paper to food scraps. However, it doesn't have to be such a wasteful time of year, as plenty of it can be put straight in your compost bin and turned into organic matter to feed the plants in your yard.

If you don't already make your own compost, use the holiday season as a starting point to collect lots of unusual compost ingredients. Of course, not every last bit of trash you accumulate during the festivities can be composted, but there are lots of items that certainly can.

Keen to make greener choices this Christmas, but not sure where to get started? Look no further. Here are five items of festive waste you can compost, as recommended by experts.

5 types of festive waste you can compost

An easy tell for if you can put something in your compost bin is assessing whether it has been treated by chemicals or is made of synthetics. If the answer is yes, it can't be composted. However, the below five items are festive waste you can put in compost:

1. Untreated wrapping paper

Paper is a common material put in compost bins. It makes up a brown material, providing carbon in the nitrogen-carbon ratio required for successful composting. However, when it comes to wrapping paper, it's important that it's natural, untreated paper.

'Uncoated, non-glossy wrapping paper made of plain paper is compostable. Glossy, metallic, or laminated papers, and those with glitter or heavy inks, is not compostable,' says Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

Treated wrapping papers tend to contain inks, paint, plastics, and other synthetics that not only won't decompose in your heap, but might release harmful chemicals into your compost.

Lauren suggests to give the wrapping paper a rip test: 'Paper that tears easily is likely compostable,' she explains.

The good news is there are plenty of Christmas gift wrapping ideas that you can use compostable materials for. Opt for biodegradable wrapping paper, like this on on Amazon and dress it up with beautiful embellishments. Just make sure to remove any tape, ribbons, or embellishments before composting the paper.

2. Fruit and vegetable scraps

The winter holidays is the perfect time to think about using kitchen waste in the garden. There are plenty of food scraps from growing your own Christmas dinner that you can add into a compost pile.

'Purchasing only what is needed and eating the leftovers is the best way to have less to food waste, but for the festive items that you do have left, you can add them to the compost bin,' says Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost. 'This includes any fruits and veggies,' she adds.

Things like carrots, sprouts, potatoes, and broccoli can all make up green materials for composting. However, it's best to avoid liquids, meat, bones, dairy, or grease which may affect the decomposition rate of your compost and attracts pests - it might lead you to having to get rid of rats.

To stop compost smelling bad from food scraps, make sure to keep turning your compost and put in enough brown materials alongside the greens.

3. Real Christmas trees

If you've chosen a real tree for your Christmas tree ideas this year, then don't make the real Christmas tree mistake of discarding it at the end of the season; your tree can be chopped up and put in the compost bin.

'The vast majority of real Christmas trees are composted,' says composting expert Jeff LeBlanc from Denali. 'Christmas trees that have extensive tinsel, bulbs, and lights cannot be composted as this material needs to be removed,' he warns.

Make sure to chop up and shred tree materials. You might need a range of essential pruning tools and sawing tools to do this, like this saw from Walmart.

'Don't compost treated or painted trees, as chemicals can harm compost microbes,' Lauren notes.

4. Fading Christmas plants

Decorating with Christmas plants and Christmas foliage is a beautiful way to bring the outdoors in for the festive season. When this plant material starts to fade and die, it presents the perfect green material for composting.

This includes a poinsettia dropping leaves and fading away, and indoor bulbs to force for Christmas that have finished flowering. 'The bulbs themselves are better saved for replanting, not composting,' says Lauren. 'Dead foliage and stems, provided they’re disease-free, can be cut up and added into the compost heap,' she advises.

To speed up composting, cut up your materials before adding them in to expose larger surface areas to the microbes breaking them down. You can use these pruning shears from Amazon to do this.

5. Untreated holiday cards

Another source of paper that often gets thrown away at this time of year is holiday cards. You can repurpose your holiday card display after the festivities have passed in a number of ways. Of course, keep hold of any sentimental ones, but those you would otherwise discard can be placed in compost.

Just like wrapping paper, you should only compost cards that haven't been treated with ink, chemicals or plastic. It can also be wise not to include parts of cards that have written ink on them - use these Walmart scissors to cut up the cards accordingly.

An alternative idea is gifting your loved ones holiday seed cards (like these from Amazon) which can be planted directly in the ground to grow plants.

FAQs

Can you compost a Christmas wreath?

You can compost Christmas wreaths made from real plant materials, but not those made from faux plants and synthetics. If you have a Christmas wreath embellished with ribbons and other decorations, make sure to remove them before putting your wreath in the compost. You might also find it helpful to chop up your wreath to speed up the rate of decomposition.

Repurposing festive waste you can compost is just one way to have a green Christmas. There are also plenty of sustainable Christmas décor ideas to take on board, including recycled Christmas decorations.

There are lots of things to get in order in the yard for the winter season. While preparing your plants for frost might be at the top of your list, something you may have forgotten about is your compost bin.

More specifically, if you make compost, you need to put some measures in place to stop compost freezing in winter. Failing to do so will slow your composting down. 'If your compost pile freezes, don’t worry - it's a temporary setback, not a disaster,' reassures Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost. 'While the microbial activity will pause when temperatures drop below freezing, the organic material in your pile will still undergo some decomposition, albeit slowly,' she explains.

So, when thinking about how to overwinter a garden, make sure to give some thought to your compost bin. If you're hoping to keep it productive during winter, try these methods to stop your compost freezing.

5 ways to stop compost freezing in winter

As Lauren notes, it isn't game over for your compost if it does freeze: 'Once warmer weather returns, the microbes will reawaken and resume breaking down the materials. Think of a frozen compost pile as being in hibernation - it’s not active, but it’s not ruined either,' she says. Nevertheless, you can keep your compost productive by doing these things to stop it freezing.

1. Keep your compost bin insulated

The first thing to do to stop compost freezing is insulate your compost bin. There are a few different ways to do this, all of which help retain heat to keep microbes active.

'Composting relies on thermophilic microorganisms, which thrive at high temperatures (104-158°F). Freezing disrupts their activity,' explains Lauren. 'Try surrounding the bin with materials like straw bales, hay, or wood chips,' she suggests.

You can also use cardboard or foam panels to insulate the compost bin walls, or simply cover your compost bin with a tarp (from Amazon). This is also a method used to speed up composting at any point in the year.

When insulating your compost bin, make sure not to make the common composting mistake of not allowing any air in: 'Ensure airflow is not completely blocked. Microorganisms require oxygen to function - this is called aerobic decomposition,' Lauren explains. This will help stop compost smelling bad, too.

2. Avoid high-moisture ingredients

You can also stop compost freezing by reducing the amount of liquid in your heap through drier materials and unusual compost ingredients.

'High-moisture materials (e.g., food scraps with lots of liquid) can freeze easily, slowing decomposition,' says Lauren. 'Instead, focus on brown materials like dried leaves or shredded cardboard, which balance moisture and provide carbon,' she adds.

Although it's important to have the right balance of greens and browns (nitrogen and carbon materials), and one of no-dig expert Charles Dowding's composting tips is to ensure you have sufficient greens, it's wise to turn your focus to browns in winter.

'It's better to mix fresh food scraps with absorbent materials, like sawdust or straw, before adding them to the pile,' Lauren advises.

3. Keep turning your compost

Another key task to do all year round is turn your compost, but this is especially important when trying to stop compost freezing.

'Turning aerates the pile, providing oxygen for microbes and redistributing heat from the center to cooler outer layers,' Lauren explains. 'This also prevents compaction, which can slow decomposition,' she adds.

An aerated compost heap is less likely to have an unpleasant odor, too.

'Use a pitchfork or compost aerator tool to mix the pile at least once every two weeks,' says Lauren. 'Focus on mixing outer layers into the warmer core of the pile,' she adds.

As well as using a compost aerator tool (from Amazon), you can also use a tumbling composter (from Amazon).

4. Move your compost bin somewhere warmer

It sounds obvious to say, but the thing that will stop compost freezing is warmth. Therefore, positioning your compost bin somewhere warmer is a fail-safe way to provide extra heat.

'If possible, relocate your bin to a sunnier, sheltered spot for the season,' says Valeria Nyman, gardening expert from gardening app Taim.io. 'Even a small rise in temperature - like being against a south-facing garden wall - can make a huge difference,' she adds.

Housing your compost bin in a greenhouse is a great way to use a greenhouse in winter, or you could even bring it inside a conservatory.

Of course, this is only doable if you have a small compost bin to work with. If you have made a composter from pallets in a permanent spot, it's best to use other methods to stop compost freezing.

5. Add a heat source

There are plenty of ways to add heat to your compost pile to prevent it freezing during winter, like heat sources. This can be a number of things:

'For extra heat, add a lightbulb wrapped in a glass jar for safety. It’s like giving your compost a tiny electric fireplace,' suggests Valeria.

You can also try installing a heater above or at the sides of your compost bin, or use a hot water bottle (from Walmart).

'Make sure to also place a black tarp or solar blanket (from Amazon) over the bin to capture heat,' Lauren advises.

FAQs

How do you hot compost in winter?

Hot composting refers to composting that uses heat to break down materials at a faster rate. To hot composting in winter, you need to put some measures in place to retain heat. This includes providing insulation, making your pile bigger and keeping it covered to protect it from frost.

Should you defrost frozen compost?

If you don't put measures in place to stop compost freezing in winter, it's likely to be affected by frost. This isn't something to worry about, however, as it doesn't ruin your compost but simply pauses the decomposition process. You can just wait for it to thaw as the weather gets warmer.

If you want to rather keep your compost productive during freezing temperatures, you can defrost compost by covering it with a black tarp, breaking it up with a shovel, adding insulation to the walls, and adding warm materials, among other methods.

Knowing how to stop compost freezing is just one of the things to do to maintain compost in winter. Other essential tasks include monitoring moisture levels and maintaining a good size heap. You can also apply some of these methods when using a wormery for compost to keep the worms active during winter.

When you first start composting, it can be tempting to throw anything and everything into your heap to make it bigger and hopefully speed up the rate of decomposition. However, there are some items that you should think twice about - including tea bags.

While we know that coffee grounds are good for plants and you can put them in your compost bin without concern, tea bags are a bit different. Of course, the biodegradable tea leaves inside a tea bag are fine to go in compost, but it's the packaging of tea bags that are the issue.

Learning to make compost is all about trial and error, but you should avoid putting any synthetic materials in your heap that won't break down. So, if you're looking for the answer to 'are tea bags compostable?' find out below why you should be cautious about this potential compost ingredient.

Are tea bags compostable?

The synthetics of tea bags poses a challenge, which means they are not always compostable.

'Traditional tea bags may contain synthetic fibers like polypropylene for sealing, which are not compostable,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

The problem with putting in synthetic materials is they won't break down and, while adding more material usually speeds up composting, this would only slow it down.

There are a wide range of unusual compost ingredients you can include in your compost bin, many of which are kitchen scraps. So, it's no wonder we might assume tea bags can also be thrown in there. However, as Lauren explains: 'Bags containing plastic fibers (eg, polypropylene, PET) or bleached paper often do not fully decompose and should not be composted. Mesh or pyramid-style bags are more likely to contain plastic and require close inspection.'

Another issue is that these materials may have been treated with chemicals and putting them in your compost bin is a composting mistake that could cost the health of your plants. This is because it could contaminate your compost heap and, in turn, your plants.

What kind of tea bags are compostable?

Of course, many brands prioritize green efforts, meaning there are a wide range of compostable, plastic-free tea bags on the market.

'Look for 'compostable' or 'biodegradable' labels to ensure tea bags are plastic-free,' suggests Lauren. It's best to always enquire with manufacturers before putting your tea bags in compost.

'If uncertain about the material, discard the bag and compost only the tea leaves,' Lauren adds.

Something to also be aware of is how to successfully compost biodegradable tea bags. 'Some compostable materials decompose only in industrial composting facilities with higher temperatures, which may not be achievable at home,' Lauren explains. In this case, you might find it best to use hot composting techniques and monitor how well the materials are breaking down.

While being able to repurpose tea bag waste in your compost bin is an eco-friendly garden idea, Lauren notes there are other options that might be even better: 'Stainless steel reusable tea balls can be a more sustainable option than compostable tea bags,' she says. Find reusable tea balls at Amazon.

Shop compostable tea bags

FAQs

Are tea leaves good for plants?

Tea leaves are a good source of nutrients for plants, making them a popular composting ingredient. 'The tea leaves inside tea bags are organic matter rich in nitrogen, ideal for composting, and can be added directly to compost,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost. Nitrogen is good for plants because it's an essential plant nutrient that supports vegetative growth. You also need sufficient nitrogen sources to stop compost smelling bad and help it decompose at a faster rate.

Now you know the answer to 'are tea bags compostable?' there are other items you might also be wondering whether you can put in your compost heap. For example, it might surprise you to know you can compost weeds.

Nevertheless, always do some research around what you want to put in your compost bin to avoid adding materials that cause more harm than good - this includes knowing what not to put in a wormery.

It might surprise you to know that you actually can compost weeds. Although it sounds problematic, due to the tendency for weeds to spread fast, it is possible to compost weeds effectively so they don't return - all while offering nutrient value to your compost.

It can take some time to wrap your head around what to put in your compost bin when you first start making compost, but you shouldn't be scared to try more unusual compost ingredients. Of course, there are certain weeds you should avoid putting in your compost heap that present the risk of coming back. However, some weeds can be put in your compost bin safely, contributing to a valuable fertilizer for your plants.

Here, compost experts have shared everything you need to know about how to compost weeds and which ones to avoid so you can add them to your heap correctly.

Tips for composting weeds

Keeping plant material aside when you get rid of weeds can provide a valuable ingredient for composting. This is because you need plenty of green materials in your compost to keep it productive and stop compost smelling bad.

Weeds that are safe to compost include annuals without seeds, dandelions, clover, and nettles. However, you do need to make sure the weeds are in the correct state to compost.

'To compost weeds effectively, ensure that those with seeds or invasive roots are either dried out entirely or 'solarized' under a plastic sheet in direct sunlight for several days, a process that helps neutralize seeds and prevent regrowth,' advises Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

As well as this, take the extra precaution of composting weeds at a high temperature (above 130°F), Lauren notes. Hot composting will reduce the ability for any seeds to germinate. 'Breaking down weeds into smaller pieces also enhances microbial access, speeding up composting and reducing the risk of weed seeds sprouting in the compost,' Lauren adds.

To effectively break down weeds, experts also recommend getting the carbon-nitrogen ratio right. 'Keep adding lots of high-carbon materials to your weed compost and give it extra time to thoroughly break down before spreading it,' says Christen Waddell, Farmstead Manager at Blackberry Farm.

Weeds you shouldn't compost

Not only do you need to know how to compost weeds correctly, but you also need to be aware of which weeds are invasive plants that are best to avoid adding to a compost heap.

'Some weeds, like bindweed, Japanese knotweed, and couch grass, are particularly resilient and can survive typical composting conditions, especially if roots or seeds aren’t fully decomposed,' says Lauren.

Problematic weeds like this often contain structures that make them resistant to low-temperature composting, Lauren explains. You should only ever compost them in a hot composter, like in this insulated compost bin from Amazon, or dispose of them separately.

If you're nervous about these weeds spreading and don't want to have to deal with the chore of getting rid of Japanese knotweed, avoid putting them in your compost.

'The reasons for this is you'll end up with compost that will just be adding more problematic weeds into your garden,' Christen explains.

'Invasive species have a higher potential for regeneration; even a small piece of root in finished compost can establish and spread in a garden, making careful weed selection crucial,' Lauren adds.

Something else to take into consideration when deciding which weeds to compost is whether they have any chemicals on them. 'Don't compost any weeds that have been treated with herbicides as these herbicides can find their way into your garden and cause damage,' warns Denis McCausland, horticulture expert and landscaper.

FAQs

Which plants can't go in compost?

There are a few plants you should avoid putting in your compost heap. This includes onions and garlic which have a strong scent that repels the worms, insects and microorganisms helping to breakdown your compost. Some food crops are also highly acidic and adding them to your compost heap can make your compost too acidic.

The rule of thumb with composting weeds is to avoid doing it if you're unsure whether the weed you're dealing with is safe to put in your compost bin. 'Be careful to also not add diseased plant material to your compost pile unless you are certain that your compost will get hot enough to kill the disease organisms,' advises Christen. We also recommend reading up on composting mistakes to avoid to aid your success with composting.

Making your own compost for your yard is a brilliant way to repurpose organic waste, like food and plant scraps, and feed your plants with a whole host of nutrients that support strong and healthy growth. If you're looking for a sustainable gardening goal to add to your resolutions for the incoming year, composting is a great place to get started.

There's a real science behind being able to successfully make compost. Not only do you need to know how to do it and what composting mistakes to avoid, it's also key to understand the timeline of composting. Depending on the size of your compost heap, you can turn your compost materials into ready-to-use compost in as little as a few months. Factors such as how often you add to your heap impact how quickly your materials break down. The timing for starting your compost heap is also something to consider.

Although you can start a compost heap at any point in the year, compost experts have shared below the optimal time to start your compost heap and explain why starting it at particular point in the year is beneficial.

When is the best time to start a compost heap?

'Spring is the best time of year to start a compost heap as warmth is needed to really get the decomposition process going,' says Denis McCausland, horticulture expert and landscaper.

This is good news if you got your hands on a compost bin during the festive season deals so you can get it set up in time to start composting after frost. The pace at which your compost ingredients decompose during colder weather will be slow, making the warmer months a more ideal time to get started.

'Increased daylight and warmer temperatures enhance microbial and fungal activity, essential for decomposition,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost. 'This timing also aligns with common pruning and garden maintenance, providing ample organic material for composting. Starting in spring allows compost to mature over the growing season, offering nutrient-rich material by late summer or fall,' she adds.

As you work through your spring gardening checklist, save your plant clippings and garden waste for your compost bin. Likewise, consider adding in unusual compost ingredients.

However, it is also possible to start a compost heap during other seasons - there are just a few considerations you need to know about:

Starting a compost heap in summer

Starting a compost heap in summer has the benefit of heat. This is an essential element for speeding up composting.

'Summer offers faster decomposition due to naturally high temperatures, which support microbial and thermophilic bacteria activity,' says Lauren. However, there is also the risk of your compost heap loosing too much moisture.

'To prevent drying out, ensure frequent watering and consider shading the compost pile, as high heat and sun exposure can cause rapid moisture loss. Turning the compost more often in summer helps regulate temperature, ensuring that microbial populations remain active without overheating,' Lauren suggests.

Using a tumbling composter, like this one from Amazon, can make turning your pile much easier. Not only will this regulate temperatures, but it will also stop compost smelling bad.

Starting a compost heap in fall or winter

While it isn't the optimal time to start your heap, it is possible to start composting in fall or winter.

'Fall, like spring, can also be ideal for composting, with abundant organic material from fallen leaves and end-of-season plant trimmings providing a ready supply of carbon-rich browns,' notes Lauren. 'Combining these with kitchen scraps and garden waste builds a well-balanced compost, laying the foundation for steady decomposition over winter,' she explains.

There are also a few things you need to do to maintain compost during winter to stop compost freezing, among other potential problems. As it becomes colder, microbial activity will slow down, so keep your compost heap productive by keeping it insulated - for example, with leaf mulch, or opt for this insulated compost bin from Amazon.

'Focus on collecting carbon-rich materials (like dry leaves) and layering them with greens to prevent a soggy, compacted pile, which can inhibit airflow,' Lauren advises. 'To jumpstart microbial activity, add small amounts of finished compost or soil regularly, which introduces active microbes and helps sustain the pile through colder conditions,' she suggests.

If you do start a compost heap during the colder seasons, opt for hot composting techniques for effective results. This compost accelerator from Walmart can also help get your heap going.

Your composting starter kit

FAQs

What time of year should you spread compost?

While you can spread compost throughout the year, it's beneficial to spread annually during fall: 'Fall is a good time to spread compost for flower beds and gardens as it gives a chance for everything to break down into helpful nutrients that enrich the soil for spring planting,' says Denis McCausland, horticulture expert and landscaper.

Spring is likewise a good time to spread compost. This gives your soil a boost of nutrients just before spring planting.

'Avoid spreading compost during peak summer, as intense heat may dry out the compost too quickly, reducing its effectiveness in enriching the soil,' notes Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

No matter what time of year you choose to start your compost heap, no-dig expert Charles Dowding's composting tips can help you turn organic waste into compost in a short amount of time. If you want to take your composting a step further, try using a wormery for compost.

It's not surprising to hear millions of pumpkins end up in the bin once the Halloween celebrations come to an end and we start taking down our fall decorations for another year. However, compost experts urge gardeners to not be so quick to discard pumpkins and gourds that have served a decorative purpose up until this point.

When it comes to making compost, it can be tricky to know what you can and can't put in your compost bin. The good news is, if you grow pumpkins and grow gourds of weird and wonderful colors and patterns for your fall porch, you can repurpose these crops as compost ingredients.

By the time we reach the end of the fall season, our decorative pumpkins have started to rot after standing out in wet and cold weather and might have even been attacked by pests. It's easy to take one look and assume they need to go in the bin. But, don't underestimate what you can still get out of these worse-for-wear crops. Here, experts tell how to compost pumpkins correctly so you can make nutrient-rich compost for your plants and prevent these fall crops from going to waste.

How to compost pumpkins

Not only is composting pumpkins a sustainable way to repurpose food waste, but pumpkins also provide valuable nutrients to a compost heap. That's why it's one of the best fall compost boosts to supercharge your soil.

'Pumpkins are especially beneficial for compost due to their high moisture content and the wealth of nitrogen and minerals within them, such as potassium and phosphorus,' says Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost. 'These nutrients make pumpkins an excellent green component in compost, enriching the pile and supporting microbial life essential for decomposition.'

However, some of the biggest compost mistakes include not properly preparing your materials and putting the wrong things in. Here, experts have shared which parts of the pumpkin to compost and how exactly to do it.

Which parts of the pumpkin can be composted?

'Every part of a pumpkin - skin, flesh, stem, and seeds - can be composted effectively when properly prepared, transforming into nutrient-rich organic matter for gardens and landscapes,' says Lauren.

This means you don't have to be too strict about which parts of the pumpkin make it into your compost bin, however, it is important to know what counts as a green ingredient and what counts as a brown ingredient. One of no-dig expert Charles Dowding's composting tips is to make sure you get this balance right - you should aim for 3/4 green and 1/4 brown ingredients in your compost bin.

'The flesh of the pumpkin, being fibrous and water-dense, is a green ingredient that readily breaks down when layered with dry, carbon-rich materials like fallen leaves, cardboard, or straw. This balance between nitrogen (green materials) and carbon (brown materials) is critical for creating an environment conducive to microbial activity,' explains Lauren.

Getting this balance right speeds up composting and helps to stop compost smelling bad. Unlike pumpkin flesh, the stem of the pumpkin often counts as a brown material for its woody nature.

'While pumpkins themselves are the primary focus, composting their leaves can also be highly beneficial. Pumpkin leaves, which are abundant in nitrogen and moisture, are also a valuable green component for compost piles,' Lauren says.

Having plenty of nitrogen sources in your compost not only aids microbe activity, but nitrogen is good for plants and a nitrogen-rich compost will support vegetative growth.

How to prepare your pumpkin for composting

Pumpkins will indeed decompose over time if left in a compost bin whole. However, to make your compost bin more effective, it's best to prepare the different parts of your pumpkin in different ways. This is especially true for separating the green and brown elements of this crop.

'Cut up a pumpkin into a handful of pieces for quicker decomposition. The smaller the pieces the better,' advises Colleen Falicki, founder of Back to Earth Compost. Doing so exposes a larger surface area of each piece, speeding up the decomposition process.

It's also wise to shred up other green materials of the pumpkin - the leaves and seeds. 'While seeds can sprout if left whole, chopping them can prevent unwanted germination and speed up breakdown,' notes Lauren.

Likewise, when you pick pumpkin off the vine, take the woodier stem and cut the end at an angle to expose a larger surface area before adding it to your compost pile. Cut up your pumpkin materials easily with something like this hori hori knife from Amazon.

Of course, you should incorporate your pumpkin materials with other unusual compost ingredients to ensure you maintain the correct green-brown balance.

'Excessive green matter can create a wet and compact environment that may slow down the decomposition process,' warns Lauren. 'For best results, compost pumpkin leaves in moderation and combine them with an ample supply of brown materials to maintain an ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio.'

If you're keen to use pumpkin leaves in your compost but have an abundance of green materials already, it is possible to still make use of them.

'To turn pumpkin leaves from a nitrogen-rich green component into a carbon-rich brown one, they can be dried before adding to the compost pile. Drying reduces their moisture content and effectively alters their composition, allowing them to contribute as a balancing agent for nitrogen-heavy materials,' Lauren explains.

Make sure to distribute your pumpkin pieces evenly so that you don't disturb the structure of your compost pile.

Be aware of unwanted chemicals

Something to keep in mind when composting decorative fall pumpkins is the presence of any chemicals - especially if you explored pumpkin painting ideas this year. 'Home composters should be mindful of any decorations or additions to pumpkins, such as wax from candles, glitter, or paint, which can introduce chemicals and contaminants.

'These materials do not decompose naturally and can pose risks to soil health and quality, so it's crucial to remove them before adding pumpkins to compost,' warns Lauren. The same goes for commercially bought pumpkins that have been treated with chemicals and preservatives to keep them fresh for longer.

'If you’re unsure whether a pumpkin has been treated, rinse the pumpkin with a solution of vinegar and water, scrubbing gently to remove any surface residues,' suggests Lauren. You can also soak the pumpkin in warm water to leach out chemicals from the outer rind, she notes. If this proves to be insufficient, try peeling the pumpkin skin before putting it in your compost bin - this vegetable peeler from Walmart can help you do this.

Don't forget to save pumpkin seeds

Although it is possible to compost pumpkin seeds, you can extend your harvest by collecting seeds when composting your pumpkins or carving your pumpkins. 'Rinse and save them for next year and plant a pumpkin patch,' says Colleen.

To do this, cut your pumpkin open and spoon out the seeds before rinsing them and storing your seeds somewhere dry and cool until it's time to plant pumpkins. This pumpkin carving kit from Amazon includes a spoon with a serrated edge that makes scooping out seeds easier.

Of course, you can also harvest pumpkin seeds to eat. 'While pumpkin seeds are technically compostable, harvesting your pumpkin seeds is often a better option for two primary reasons,' says Lauren.

'First, pumpkin seeds are notorious for sprouting within compost piles, potentially leading to unintended pumpkin growth in gardens and compost heaps. Second, pumpkin seeds are rich in nutrients and serve as excellent feed for birds, squirrels, and humans,' she notes.

FAQs

Can I put a whole pumpkin in my compost?

Yes, you can technically put a whole pumpkin in a compost heap. However, this will take a very long time to decompose. That's why it's recommended to cut up your pumpkin before putting it in the compost bin. Smaller pieces will decompose at a faster rate and it can help you achieve even layers in your compost bin, as a whole pumpkin takes up much more space.

How long does it take for pumpkins to decompose

This depends on factors such as how old the pumpkin is, if it has been treated with chemicals, and if it is decomposing whole or cut up into small pieces. For a compost heap, it is recommended to cut up your pumpkin. Untreated small pieces of pumpkin in a compost heap can break down in as little as eight weeks. Whole pumpkins may only start to decompose after eight to 12 weeks.

Composting is just one of the many things you can do with leftover Halloween pumpkins - depending on what state they're in, you can also cook with them or even make a face mask. Whatever you choose to do, repurposing your decorative pumpkins is a great way to practice eco-friendly garden ideas this fall.

It's a sunny mid-September day at the homestead of Charles Dowding in Somerset, UK. The horticulturist and pioneer of modern no dig gardening practices has created somewhat of an organic food haven here on his 0.75 acre land in the south of England, and I have the privilege of being shown around by Charles himself.

More and more gardeners are becoming interested in making their own compost as a means of creating a sustainable garden. Seeing the outstanding success Charles Dowding is having in his yard, creating compost for around two thirds of all growing he does on his land, makes the recent launch of his new book Compost, available at Amazon, all the more exciting. After all, Charles continuously turns a large heap of food scraps, manure and plant material into ready-to-use compost in as little time as a couple of months.

Spending a day hearing all about how exactly Charles does it, and getting my hands dirty by joining in with composting at Homeacres, has left with me with more knowledge about composting than I ever had before. Here, I've compiled the ultimate list of composting tips and tricks from the compost-making expert so you can make your very own 'black gold' in your backyard.

18 lessons about composting from Charles Dowding

'We have pallet bays, daleks and a wormery here,' says Charles. 'A lot of it’s about being time efficient, but it's also important to remember that even after you spread compost it isn't a finished product,' he adds.

Over his 12 years at Homeacres, Charles, alongside his right-hand man Adam Wood, has created a paradise for vegetable garden-lovers. From classics like growing tomatoes to more unusual varieties like the purple mermaid's tale cabbage, I'm in awe of what he has been able to grow here. And when tasting some of his finest homegrown crops, there's no doubt the compost he makes works well. Discover the best of Charles Dowding's compost secrets below.

1. Compost doesn't have to look perfect

The thought of opening your compost bin and seeing a fine, soft surface of material that has fully decomposed is dreamy for many growers. While it's easy to fall into the trap of thinking your compost needs to look as pristine and perfected as the stuff you buy in stores, Charles says to look at your compost differently.

'There’s no precise finish point with making compost. Although waiting a bit longer is better, it’s really ready when you need it,' he says while scooping some compost out of one of his 6x6ft pallet bays and pointing out some small woody elements sitting among the otherwise mature compost.

Compost is made up of green materials - such as grass clippings and food scraps - and brown materials - like wood chips and cardboard - and it goes without saying the brown materials are likely to decompose at a slower rate. As Charles notes, this shouldn't stop you using your compost because it will keep decomposing once spread.

After just four months of filling his compost bin and turning it, Charles spreads his perfectly imperfect compost which can be seen all around Homeacres. Nevertheless, if you are hoping for your compost to have few imperfections, a little patience may be required.

'Compost is fully mature when it's dark, crumbly and has an earthy smell. It should no longer have visible food scraps or plant material and the pile will have reduced in volume significantly,' explains Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

2. Don’t be scared to put weeds in your compost bin

While it may be thought of as a composting mistake by many, Charles says to make use of the weeds you're pulling up in your yard as a slightly more unusual compost ingredient.

'I put weeds in my compost bins. You can compost all weeds if you really wanted to. Bindweed often goes into my heap and it doesn't come out again,' Charles says. 'It's much easier to pull weeds up from compost than the ground,' he adds.

While you may be nervous to put weeds in your compost heap in fear of them spreading in your yard, Charles assures they break down in the heap just like other materials.

Some popular weed additions to compost heap include annual weeds like clover and chickweed. Weeds that produce seed can also be a valuable addition when hot composting, as the temperatures can reduce their viability.

'It's all more material and that means more warmth which aids the composting process,' says Charles.

3. Use a lawnmower to shred your compost materials

There are plenty of ways to speed up composting to break down your materials faster, including starting with smaller pieces in the first place. While there are lots of different ways to cut up your compost materials, like with this electric chipper from Amazon, Charles lets me on his quick solution to shredding green ingredients.

'I use a lawnmower all the time for my compost materials. I simply put stuff like material from pruning on the ground and run over it with the lawnmower and it chops it up,' he explains.

It's as simple as that and requires using an essential gardening tool you likely already have lying around. Save yourself some time by using one of the best lawn mowers to do the job. Just take care to not run your lawnmower over any particularly hard materials to avoid damage to your machine.

This isn't the only handy tool Charles uses for composting, as he shows off a useful compost aerator tool, available at Amazon, perfect for smaller compost bins, and a garden sifter, available at Amazon. 'I sift wood chips so it goes fine for the compost heap, but I don't sift the compost itself,' Charles explains.

4. Cut stems on an angle

When working with woodier materials, you might find shredding isn't possible. That's why Charles always has his pocket knife, like this from Walmart, to hand when composting.

'It's sometimes hard to cut through harder stems straight on, so try cutting diagonally,' he says while demonstrating with a sunflower stem. 'It also provides the microbes that are doing the decomposition work access to a larger surface area.'

This is a good tip if you've just been tending to your kitchen garden and have cuttings from toucher plants, such as mature brassicas. If the plant matter is hard to squeeze, it's best to cut it up in this way rather than shred it with other soft and tender stems.

5. Make your compost bin an attractive garden feature

You might not think of composting as glamourous and can be tempted to hide your heap away, perhaps behind a garden screen. But, the placement of your compost bin is actually an important consideration when exploring backyard ideas.

'Some people chuck it down the end of the garden and forget about it,' says Charles. 'I say make a feature of it. Composters can look nice and you want them to be where it’s most convenient and accessible,' he adds.

Composting is something any gardener should be proud of, so why not place it in a prominent position and show it off? Plus, you'll appreciate incorporating your compost bin in your yard somewhere easy to reach when you get around to pruning and tidying up your plants. Compost bins and pallet bays are placed in multiple spots across Homeacres this reason.

You can even choose a compost bin with more aesthetic appeal - like this cedar compost bin from Amazon for a rustic style.

6. Set up multiple compost bins next to each other

One of the most impressive things about Charles' composting practices is his ability to create a large volume of compost in such little time. His trick? Using multiple compost bins at one time.

At Homeacres, there is a row of 6x6ft pallet bays, as well as a row of 4x4ft pallet bays. Having the compost bins set up in this way is important for efficiency, Charles explains.

'Fill one bin at a time, making sure you concentrate everything into that bin only. When it gets full, you need to stop filling it and let it sit for around six weeks. In that time, start filling the empty bin at the opposite end of the row,' he says. 'After the sitting period, turn your first compost heap into the empty bin next to it. The original bin is then empty for turning the second lot of compost, and so on,' he explains.

Turning compost is important for aerating it and will help stop compost smelling bad, as well as speed up the decomposition process. Charles typically only does this turning process once for each compost heap he creates.

7. Aim for 131-158°F in your compost heap

Of course, there are other ways to speed up composting. 'To make compost that looks like this in four months, I'm happy,' says Charles, holding a clump of smooth compost from his bin. 'That wouldn’t happen without warmth and that means adding more material,' he adds.

Getting the temperature right for composting is important for success. Too cool and your materials won't break down, too warm and the microbes won't be able to do their work. Charles, recommends aiming for the 131-158°F range.

'Decomposition starts with a period of high temperature, which gradually drops after a few days or weeks,' explains Kathi Rodgers, CEO of Oak Hill Homestead. 'To boost the decomposition process when the temperature begins to fall, the compost can be turned over with a pitchfork or shovel. The process will begin again and temperatures will rise,' she adds.

This compost thermometer from Amazon is a must. 'This tool just tells you how busy the heap is,' Charles says. If you're struggling to get temperatures up, add more volume to your heap.

8. Don't burn the worms in a wormery

If you're new to composting or perhaps haven't started yet, you'll be interested to know about the different types of composting set-ups you can have. Using a wormery for compost is a popular choice and consists of a compost heap of kitchen waste which worms eat away at. They then produce worm castings that are a valuable source of nutrients for plants.

Charles has built his own square wormery from some pallets of wood, sitting on the ground. He keeps it covered with a plastic cover to lock moisture in, which opens to reveal a community of redworms hard at work.

The fact this wormery is built straight on the ground with no base, plus the use of a cover, regulates temperatures. 'Below 50°F the worms stop eating, below 37.4°F they die. That's why between 50-77°F is ideal to keep the worms active,' says Charles. 'Keeping the wormery on the ground keeps it cooler and allows them to come and go. The cover also keeps them cooler during warm days and warm during cold days.'

Be careful not to let temperatures get too high as it could burn and kill your worms, reducing the productivity of your wormery. While Charles has noticed many redworms naturally come to his heap, you can also purchase worms for your compost - like these composting worms from Amazon.

9. Add to a wormery little but often

Another thing I learned from Charles' wormery is you don't add to this type of composting heap as you would others. Charles tells me to keep 'little but often in mind,' as this is the best way to feed the worms.

'You only ever want to feed the worms from the surface,' says Charles. 'I add food scraps here about twice a week,' he says while pointing out solids from his juicer lying at the top of the pile.

He points out you can also feed worms compost that has started decomposing. 'Not when the compost is fresh, but when the materials are starting to rot because that's the point in the composting process worms are starting to arrive anyway,' he explains.

Charles ensures this is the best way to get high quality wormery compost, as it keeps the worms stimulated. He's planning to make his own potting mix with his wormery compost. 'There's something in the enzymes and biology of worm casts that makes roots grow more quickly,' he explains.

Of course, there are plenty of foods you shouldn't put in a wormery to avoid, too.

10. Steam is a sign of enough greens in your compost

You know composting is working when you can actually see the heat coming off it, and I'm amazed to watch steam rise from Charles' compost heap as lifts it. He explains that this is a sign you have the right volume of ingredients in the heap.

'Green ingredients stimulate bacteria and make them breed rapidly. Then, their metabolism makes heat. That’s why you get steam if you have enough green,' he explains.

There are two types of compost ingredients - green and brown. 'Green materials are high in nitrogen and include grass clippings, weeds, vegetable and fruit trimmings, eggshells and coffee grounds,' explains Kathi. 'Brown materials are high in carbon, and include fallen leaves in autumn, shredded paper, cardboard, sawdust from untreated wood and straw,' she adds.

Charles notes that the correct proportions are 3/4 green and 1/4 brown, as the green is what stimulates the microbes and kickstarts decomposition. 'We measure in volume, not weight,' he adds.

Getting these measurements wrong is a classic composting mistake that leads to failure, so it's important to know which materials are which. Charles adds in cardboard and packaging as a brown to his heaps, excluding plastics. 'Even this decomposed lettuce is brown,' he says holding it up. 'I let it go to seed to collect them and what remains is a woody leftover of lettuce.'

11. Take lower leaves of plants for your compost

You can find green materials for your compost everywhere in your yard, such as grass clippings after mowing. Charles shares with me a hack that both adds to your compost heap and help your plants out.

By taking the lower leaves of your plants, especially vegetables, you're removing older foliage that isn't assisting much in photosynthesis, making the plant more productive, he explains. 'It also helps with slug control because you're removing their ease of access to your crops,' Charles adds.

Simply pull the leaves off, or use sharp tools like these pruning shears from Amazon.

12. Keep your compost heap aerobic

There are four things you need to successfully make compost: greens, browns, moisture and oxygen. While a large volume of green and brown materials will create a moist environment, your heap won't take care of getting enough oxygen by itself.

'You can tell it's anaerobic and doesn't have enough air when it has a bad smell and the materials are too wet,' says Charles. In his largest compost heaps, Charles keeps a large hollow pipe in the middle to keep it aerobic.

Turning your compost will also ensure it has enough air and the type of compost bin you use will determine how aerobic it stays. For example, this tumbling composter from Amazon allows air to flow through and makes turning easier.

However, you also have to make sure your compost isn't overly aerobic, as this can halt the decomposition process. 'If you have compost materials are too large, they won't pack down and will create air pockets within the heap. That can be too much air and slow down the composting,' advises Charles.

13. Don't be too worried about rodents

Dealing with pests in the yard is something all gardeners have to face and there is a real concern surrounding the pests your compost heap may attract. This is especially true when creating a compost on a large scale with multiple bins, like Charles. Rats, however, don't phase the homesteading expert.

'Because I even include some meat products in my compost, I have attracted rats in the past. I haven't had many rats for around nine years thanks to my cat,' he says. 'But, you shouldn't be too concerned about rats in your compost pile. They can actually do a good job of aerating it,' he adds.

Of course, if you do wish to keep rats away from your compost and yard, there are plenty of rat and mouse-repellent plants to choose from, among other methods.

14. Use the same amount of compost everywhere in your yard

Another composting myth Charles debunks is you need to adjust how much compost you use for different crops and plants. He uses the same amount of his homemade compost for everything he grows. 'My Brussels sprouts have grown well in the same spot and with the same compost as the carrots that were previously there,' Charles notes while pulling out a large carrot that got left behind.

'What happens when you spread compost is you’re feeding the soil life. That enables anything to grow,' Charles says.

Although, there's no denying that there are certain compost mixes that will serve some plants better than others - which is why you can find specific soil for container gardening in stores, for example.

'In general, finished compost can be used for most plants, as it provides a balanced nutrient profile. However, for specific plant needs, adjustments might be required,' says Lauren Click. 'Acid-loving plants like blueberries may benefit from compost with a lower pH,' she explains.

There are plenty of things you can do to adjust your compost, for example by making your soil more acidic. This soil test kit from Amazon can identify the nutrient levels and pH level of your compost.

15. Source compost ingredients from tree surgeons and coffee shops

While there are plenty of sources for your compost from everyday kitchen waste, packaging and garden waste, if you're keen to produce a larger volume of compost at a faster rate, Charles suggests seeking materials elsewhere.

'Ask tree surgeons for wood chips that are green wood, fresh prunings and small pieces that will decompose easily,' he suggests. 'Any time in summer is good for asking them because that’s when they’ve been pruning and will have a high volume of material,' Charles adds.

Coffee grounds are also a good green material for compost, as they're around 3% nitrogen, so it's also worth asking coffee shops for grounds that would otherwise go in the bin.

16. Rain won’t wash away the goodness in your compost

Rain is something you shouldn't fear when it comes to composting. It can be easy to assume once your compost is spread and exposed to the elements, its nutrients can be washed away in the rain - similar to the longevity of fertilizer. But, Charles offers the reassurance that your compost won't lose its goodness.

'It isn’t like fertilizer, compost has water insoluble nutrients that don’t wash out with rain,' says Charles. 'That's why I find it helpful to spread in winter,' he adds.

At Homeacres, Charles last spread his compost in December. Now, in September, his crops are still thriving in the same compost, even after a particularly wet summer in the UK.

17. Squeeze your compost to see if it's too wet

Speaking of moisture, it is possible for your compost heap to become too wet. In these cases, your heap can turn anaerobic and hinder the decomposition process. But how do you know when your compost is too wet?

'Pick up some of your compost and give it a squeeze,' Charles demonstrates. 'If more than two drops of water come out, then your heap is too wet.

'I recommend just finding somewhere to spread your compost out. This lets some air in,' he suggests.

You can also use a soil moisture meter, from Amazon, to test the moisture levels of your compost, as well as assist in knowing when to water your plants.

18. Build your own compost bin from repurposed materials

There's no denying there are an endless number of compost bin options on the market. However, it can be much more fun to make a composter and personalize it to your space. That's exactly what Charles has done with some of his pallet bays.

'Mine are simply four pallets with wire on each corner holding them together,' Charles says. 'I can then lift the wire and open one of the pallets.

'I also line the pallets with cardboard. You don't need slats on the side to let air in, I find it's better to have them sealed by cardboard to retain heat and moisture,' he explains.

Just like the wormery, Charles has constructed his pallet bays straight onto the ground after mowing it to get it level.

FAQs

When is the best time of year to start composting?

You can start composting at any time of year. It just requires setting up a compost bin to create your heap and then adding in your green and brown materials accordingly. Ensure you keep it aerobic and monitor moisture levels. It can take as little as weeks to a few months to create compost, depending on the volume of material you add and how large your heap is.

Why is my compost not decomposing?

If your compost heap isn't decomposing, it's likely you aren't getting the proportions of your materials correct. It's best to include 3/4 green materials, like plant clippings and food scraps, and 1/4 brown materials, like cardboard and wood chips. You also need to ensure your heap gets enough oxygen and is sufficiently moist to stay aerobic. An anaerobic heap will be unproductive and have an unpleasant smell.

There's no doubt what Charles Dowding is doing at Homeacres is working, with a thriving vegetable patch soaking up the goods of his homemade compost that he makes at high volumes in a short amount of time. He also makes sure to maintain his compost over winter and during wetter months with shelters and covers that stop excess rain getting into the heaps. For more information on soil additives, see our guide on how to use biochar.

It's easy to assume that bad smells come with composting - after all, it's all about breaking down a collection of kitchen and garden waste. However, bad smelling compost is actually a sign that something isn't quite right.

If you're new to making compost, you might not realise that you could be making a few composting mistakes that is leaving your compost bin smelling bad. Whether it's because you're using the wrong ingredients, aren't providing enough airflow or keeping your compost bin in the wrong conditions, there are a few reasons why your compost is emitting odors when it shouldn't be.

Luckily, there are some easy fixes to stop your compost smelling bad. Here are different methods experts suggest trying.

5 ways to stop compost smelling bad

Even though we use a range of unusual compost ingredients to create the perfect mixture to boost nutrients for our plants, compost shouldn't smell bad. A normal level of smell from the materials you use is expected, but if your compost bin gives off a foul odor you might need to make some adjustments. Here are 5 methods to stop compost smelling bad.

1. Don't put meat in your compost bin

While it may be tempting to use your compost bin for all food waste, putting the wrong ingredients in can cause a bad smell - largely due to a lack of decomposition and food scraps quickly turning bad in the compost pile.

'Number one rule of thumb: Never include meat, bones or dairy in your backyard compost bin,' says Colleen Falicki from Back to Earth Compost Crew. 'These items will make your compost smell bad, plus you'll attract unwanted pests and rodents,' she adds.

Compost should only be made up of green materials, like fruit and vegetable scraps, and brown materials, like straw and paper - all of which are biodegradable.

Although, food scraps that are yet to break down in you compost heap may also attract pests, so it's important to make your bin secure when making a composter. You might also find it useful to place pest-repellent plants near your compost bin to add an extra layer of security.

2. Get the nitrogen-carbon ratio right

Not only do you have to make sure you're putting the right things into your compost heap, you also need to make sure you get the ratio right to encourage successful deterioration. Green materials contain high amounts of nitrogen, while brown materials have more carbon.

'Always use the 3:1 ratio when it comes to carbon and nitrogen,' says Colleen. 'For example, three containers of carbon (leaves, shredded paper, mulch, shredded cardboard) to one container of nitrogen (fruit and veggie scraps, coffee grounds),' she adds. 'Most people don't realize how much carbon is needed.'

Having this ratio of nitrogen and carbon allows for successful breaking down. This, in turn, reduces unpleasant smells because food scraps get broken down more quickly.

'Permaculture interns at Washington College avoid compost odors by accelerating the decomposition process. Their secret ingredient is blending in comfrey leaves and stalks, which thanks to their high concentration of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, speed up breakdown,' notes Shane Brill, director the community garden at Washington College in Chestertown, MD.

To help with the decomposition process, you can also use this compost starter from Amazon, or try hot composting.

3. Shred your compost materials

As another method of speeding up the time it takes for compost materials to break down, and therefore avoid them sitting in your bin with a lingering smell, you can shred your compost ingredients.

'Always chop your fruit and veggies into small pieces and after adding them to your pile, always end with carbon on top,' notes Colleen.

Whether you're using banana peel for fertilizer or using orange peel for plants, shredding food scraps before using them in compost or on plants will help them break down faster and reduce any rotting smells.

Try using this kitchen slicer from Amazon to help shred your food scraps to put in your compost bin.

4. Regularly turn your compost

If you want to successfully make compost, you need to ensure there is plenty of air circulation to oxidise the compost and prevent unpleasant smells. Regularly turning your compost helps with this.

'Turning it will add oxygen, which is what the microbes need to stay aerobic. Otherwise it could turn anaerobic and start to smell,' says Colleen.

Microbes are the organisms that help break down compost and they need plenty of access to oxygen in order to work successfully. When microbes turn anaerobic, a foul odor can be smelled.

This is why so many gardeners invest in tumbling composters, like this tumbling composter from Amazon, which allows you to easily turn your compost pile. No matter what type of composter you have, make sure it has vents for airflow and turn your pile often.

5. Top up moisture levels in your compost bin

You may also find your compost heap is smelling bad if it has been left to dry out entirely. As well as having the right ingredients at the right proportions and plenty of oxygen, compost needs to be moist to help microbes work well.

'Water your compost pile as needed. It should feel like a damp sponge,' says Colleen.

It's as simple as using a garden hose, like this garden hose from Amazon, or watering can to to up moisture levels.

However, be cautious not to let your compost pile become soggy as this could have the opposite effect and enhance the smell of your compost. Using collected rainwater in your composter is also a great way to reduce water waste in your yard.

You can likewise prevent too much moisture escaping your compost pile by covering it. 'Moisture and aromas get trapped inside the compost pile by covering it with a tarp,' suggests Shane.

FAQs

Does finished compost go bad?

Finished compost refers to a compost pile that has completely broken down its materials. It won't go bad in the way we understand food going bad because the food scraps in the compost have already deteriorated. However, it is advised to use fresh compost where possible to offer plants the most amount of nutrients. You might also find that your compost pile shrinks over time as it breaks down even more.

Despite compost being made up of food scraps and other materials, it isn't meant to smell bad. If an unpleasant odor is coming from your compost bin, it might be a good idea to check you making compost in the right conditions.

Discover other ways to use kitchen waste in the garden to make greener gardening choices.

Composting is an essential task for gardeners who are passionate about making green choices. It's a great way to use up organic waste and give your plants a boost of nutrients. The one downfall? It can sometimes take a while for your compost ingredients to break down to a condition that is ready to use.

Whether you're making compost for the first time or are exploring different ways to make a composter, it can be a good idea to get to grips with how to speed up composting so that you can use your compost sooner. Luckily, there are a fair few tried and tested methods of speeding up composting that experts say work every time.

I've compiled an expert list of ways to speed up composting so that you can find the best solution for you and see the benefits of using homemade compost in your yard sooner.

7 ways to speed up composting

There are lots of ways to speed up composting so that you can use it much sooner. Discover seven methods below, with expert tips for successful results.

1. Layer green and brown materials

The key to success with composting comes down to using the right ingredients. Even if you've decided to use unusual compost ingredients, you need to make sure you are creating the right mixture to help your compost break down effectively.

'The four requirements of a compost pile are greens (nitrogen), browns (carbon), water and air,' says Kathi Rodgers, CEO of Oak Hill Homestead.

Having the right mixture of green and brown ingredients can make the difference in how quickly decomposition happens. 'Aim for about 30 parts carbon to one part nitrogen,' says Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

Brown materials include things like straw and twigs, while green ingredients include food scraps and grass clippings. Not getting this balance right is a common composting mistake.

2. Make a larger compost heap

The bigger your compost pile, the quicker it will break down. This is because it will warm up quicker and retain more moisture from its bigger size.

'The ideal size for a compost pile is 3x3x3 feet. The volume will decrease as the materials decompose, but this is the ideal size to begin with,' says Kathi.

The trick to having a large enough compost pile is ensuring you have a compost container large enough, like this compost bin from Amazon.

You can also build your own compost bin, using things like wooden pallets. Just make sure your DIY container is large enough and allows for air circulation.

3. Keep your pile moist and warm

Not only is having the right mixture of ingredients important for quick decomposition, you also need to ensure your compost pile has plenty of moisture and warmth.

'Take care that it doesn't become too moist,' says Kathi. 'It should have the texture of a wrung-out sponge. If it's too dry and not working, watering the compost pile with the hose will definitely help. Warmth will be created inside the pile naturally,' she adds.

You can use something like this watering can from Amazon or this garden hose from Amazon to top up moisture levels in your compost bin.

Hot composting is a method of composting that focuses on keeping temperatures up to help speed up the process. You can even invest in a hot compost bin, like this hot compost bin from Amazon, to help keep your compost pile at a warmer temperature.

4. Shred your compost materials

You can help your compost materials break down quicker by starting them off as smaller pieces. Simply shredding them up and adding smaller pieces to your compost pile will help them decompose quicker.

'The smaller the pieces, the faster they will decompose,' says Kathi. 'Run over fall leaves with the lawnmower to shred them and cut up vegetable scraps,' she suggests.

It can also be a good idea to invest in a kitchen composter, like this electric composter for kitchen from Amazon, which can help shred your food scraps more easily to add directly to your compost pile.

5. Add worms to your compost

If you haven't already heard of using a wormery for composting, it can be an effective way to speed up the process. Worms will help turn organic material into valuable fertilizer.

'Worms, especially red wigglers, consume organic waste and break it down faster than bacteria alone. Their digestive process produces nutrient-rich compost called worm castings,' says Lauren.

'Introduce red wigglers to your compost bin. Ensure the bin is kept in a cool, dark place and maintain a balance of moist bedding (like shredded newspaper) and food scraps,' she adds.

You can even buy worm castings to add into your compost pile or apply directly to your soil, like these worm castings from Amazon.

6. Turn your compost over regularly

A key part of successful composting is air circulation as the materials need to break down in an aerobic environment. Turning your compost pile regularly can help improve the airflow and amount of oxygen the pile is exposed to.

'When you turn a pile more frequently, it does two things: It becomes re-oxygenated, supporting more microbial growth, especially of bacteria that is the first actor in the decomposition process. It also exposes new surface areas to microbes, giving them a renewed source of food to consume,' says Christi Wilhelmi, founder at Gardenerd.

'That will kick up the heat again in the compost pile (which is a chemical reaction to the above mentioned biological activity) and your pile will reduce more quickly. Turn it once per week if you want to have compost sooner,' she adds.

You can turn your compost pile in a number of ways, including using essential gardening tools like a shovel, or investing in this tumbling composter from Amazon.

7. Use a compost activator

An easy way to speed up composing is to add a compost activator. This is often in the form of a tablet that you dissolve in water and add to your compost pile. It contains a blend of nutrients and bacteria to help break down organic materials.

'These are commonly available at garden centers and stores. The product contains microbes, bacteria and fungi to get the decomposition process started,' says Kathi.

There are plenty of compost activators available online, like this compost starter from Amazon and this compost accelerator from Amazon. Always follow manufacturer instructions for the product you have.

FAQs

Why isn't my composting breaking down?

There are a few reasons why your compost may not be breaking down. This includes poor aeration or your compost pile being too wet. If your compost isn't made up of the right ingredients, it could also prevent it from breaking down effectively. Make sure you have a blend of green and brown materials and provide a moderate level of moisture and warmth with plenty of air circulation for successful results.

How long does cold composting take?

Cold composting involves gradually adding organic waste to a compost heap, unlike hot composting which focuses on maintaining higher temperatures to break down materials quicker. If you choose to add materials to your compost heap gradually, it can take around six months to a year for it to break down for use in your yard.

Composting is a great way to use up organic waste and give your plants a boost of essential nutrients. By following these methods, you can create the ideal environment for waste to break down easily, so that you can use your homemade compost sooner.

Discover other eco-friendly garden ideas for more ways to be sustainable in your yard.

Composting is a great way to be more sustainable, help the planet and cut down on waste. It is also an eco-friendly way of feeding your garden with the nutrients it needs to stay looking good and supporting local ecosystems. 

If you've already used our guide on composting to make your own cold compost, or you simply want to create more of your own compost faster this year, it could be time to switch up your methods. 

Hot composting usually does require a specialist bin and some active management, however once you know how the process works, we think you might just be converted. 

A guide to hot composting

As the name suggests, hot composting is all about the temperature.

Cold composting is the more commonly used method, which you might be more familiar with. This involves slowly adding organic matter to a compost heap and leaving it to break down in its own time. 

Hot composting refers to a method that produces compost in a shorter period of time stimulated by warm temperatures in the heap. 

What are the benefits of hot composting?

While cold composting is the easier method, many gardeners say hot composting produces better results. It's a great way to speed up composting.

Stacy Savage, Founder & CEO of Zero Waste Strategies, explains that hot composting creates an active environment where green kitchen scraps and brown yard waste are mixed in balanced proportions.

'Thermophilic bacteria thrive in this mixture, generating enough heat (between 130°F and 160°F) to rapidly break down the organic material. Typically, hot composting can produce rich, nutrient-dense compost in just 18 to 30 days, significantly faster than cold composting methods,' she says.

Stacy adds that the benefits of hot composting extend beyond speedy decomposition. 'The high temperatures not only ensure quicker waste transformation but also sanitize the compost by killing pathogens and weed seeds, making it excellent for garden use,' she explains. 'It's a powerful way to enhance soil health, improve water retention, and nourish plants. Moreover, by composting at home, you significantly reduce methane emissions from landfills, contributing to a healthier planet.'

What can you use to make hot compost?

Your ideal compost mix will need to be 25 parts carbon to one part nitrogen. Although this sounds tricky at first, getting the right mix is easier than you might think. 

Typical compost ingredients that are rich in carbon include shredded paper, straw, twigs and dry leaves, and these will form the main bulk of your compost. 

For the nitrogen elements, things such as grass clippings, fruit and veg scraps, garden waste, coffee grounds and chicken or farm animal manure are all viable options. 

How to use a hot compost bin

If you like the idea of hot composting, but don’t have the time to spare to make your own heap from scratch, it might be worth investing in a hot composting bin, which helps to simplify the process. 

The bin maintains a steady temperature of 104˚F - 140˚F, even in winter. All you need to do is regularly add food or garden waste, and a bulking agent or shredded paper to keep the air flowing inside the bin. 

Lauren Click, executive director of Let's Go Compost, advises that maintaining a hot compost pile requires consistent effort. 

'This involves frequent turning, monitoring moisture levels, and managing potential odors and pests,' she says. 'While hot composting offers great benefits, it also demands a lot of time commitment compared to worm composting or tumbler composting.'

How to make hot compost – a step-by-step guide

1. Mark out space for a pile that is at least 50x50in. Alternatively, invest in a hot compost bin to make your compost in.

2. Have all your organic matter to hand at the start, and chop up the ingredients. An easy way to do this is to run the lawn mower over them a few times. It's important to chop everything up so that it breaks down as quickly as possible.

3. Add a couple of shovelfuls of ready-made compost that will work as an activator to kick start the process, then mix all the ingredients in a pile or bin.

4. Add water so that all the ingredients are evenly moist.

5. Maintain the compost heap by keeping an eye on the soil temperature and moisture. The pile should heat up within 24 to 36 hours. Around 140˚F is the ideal temperature. You can monitor this with a compost thermometer, such as this one from Amazon. Some of the bins have an integral monitor in the lid to make it easier for you to keep an eye on the temperature.

6. When the pile starts to cool it's time to turn it to aerate the contents. This restarts the microbial activity and gets things cooking again.

7. In terms of moisture, if the compost is looking too dry, give it water. Letting it dry out is a common composting mistake. However, if the pile starts to smell unpleasant, it's probably because it's too wet. Adding shredded newspaper or another high-carbon material will soak up any excess moisture. If rain is due, cover the pile with a tarpaulin to stop it becoming waterlogged.

8. After about two-three weeks of following this routine, you should have dark brown, crumbly compost. It's important to let it rest for a further two weeks before using it.

FAQs

Is hot composting better than cold composting?

The main benefit of hot composting is the speed at which waste becomes compost. A traditional composting bin can take anything from six months to two years to transform waste into compost. Hot composting can take as little as four weeks to produce compost, though it may produce some odors. 

However, although the process of cold composting is slower, its low maintenance method can be appealing to many people as there's little that needs to be done to create your compost. On the other hand, many shop-bought hot composters can take a wider range of home and garden waste than you could use in producing cold compost, including meat and chicken bones, so it's a good way to ensure food and garden waste can always be put to good use.

How long does it take to make hot compost? 

If you get it right and follow the formula you'll see great results in as little as four weeks. As long as you monitor the compost and record the temperature everyday, plus turn the compost every four to five days you'll be on the right track. After one month, you should have turned the pile four times. By this point, most of the pile will be a dark, crumbly compost. Now you must let it rest for a couple of weeks before you can start using it.

It's best to place your compost heap or hot compost bin in a spot where it will get the most sun. Shady spots won't benefit from the added heat you'll get from the sun. 

If you have the space and are willing to put in a little more effort in the short term, hot composting is an option well worth exploring. You may also want to make your own composter in your yard, for a fully sustainable approach.

Compost helps build healthier soil, improve plant growth and conserve water, making it a very useful resource to have for your outdoor garden plants and vegetables. By using compost, you are returning organic material and nutrients back to the soil that can be immediately used by the plants and vegetables.

It is handy to know how to make your own compost as a way of achieving your sustainable gardening goals. Ideally, compost should be put to use right away, because its chances of losing nutrients increase with storage time. However, by paying it a bit of attention, compost can be stored for the next season

As the winter chill sets in, many gardeners wonder about the fate of their compost piles. A simple yet effective strategy to maintain your compost will help sustain it throughout the seasonal challenges of winter.

How to maintain compost over winter

Winter composting can be challenging. Despite there being many potential composting mistakes, with the right strategies it is possible and highly beneficial to maintain your compost until the following season.

Balance ingredients

During winter, it's essential that you maintain a good balance between nitrogen-rich green materials and carbon-rich brown materials in your compost. This balance helps to sustain microbial activity, even in lower temperatures.

You can do this by adding kitchen scraps such as vegetable peel and leftovers as your greens substances, and fallen leaves or straw as your brown substances. According to Charlotte Ekker Wiggins, a Master Gardener Emeritus who is based in mid-Missouri, composting material over winter will decompose slower so it helps to cut up kitchen scraps into smaller pieces.

Starting your compost pile with a substantial layer of brown material at the bottom aids moisture absorption and aeration, preventing the pile from becoming soggy. This is especially important in colder months when composting slows down.

Insulation is key

Another important way to maintain your compost over winter is to insulate it correctly. You can use straw bales, old carpets, or even a thick layer of leaves around and over the compost bin.

By insulating your compost bin you will help retain the heat generated by microbial activity needed for the decomposition process, even during the colder months.

If you are able to, position your composters where they get maximum sun. Any additional sunlight will help keep the compost bin warm. There are now compost bins already with efficient thermal insulation including the EJWOX Insulated Compost Bin from Amazon.

Keep turning your compost

‘While you'll want to turn your compost less frequently in winter to retain heat, it's still important to do so occasionally,’ says Aaron Green, founder of Essential Home and Garden. ‘This will prevent your compost from becoming anaerobic and will help distribute the heat throughout the pile.’ This is an essential thing to do to stop your compost smelling bad.

Regular turning will help to aerate the compost, with this aerator available from Amazon, as it will encourage faster decomposition. During winter, try to reduce the frequency to prevent heat loss, but do it enough to maintain oxygen levels.

Size matters

A small compost pile will have a tough time retaining heat, whereas a larger pile retains heat better. Gardening expert Tony O’Neill suggests you should aim for a compost pile that is at least three feet tall and wide, as this will fare best over winter.

This size helps to ensure the pile's core stays warm and active, as it will be large enough to retain heat but small enough to still receive insulated protection.

Regularly top up with a 70/30 mix of brown and green waste. You can use layers of leaves, straw or cardboard to keep warmth in the pile.

Monitor moisture levels

Keep the pile moist but not soggy to stop compost freezing. When spring arrives, the pile may be very wet, especially if it has frozen over the winter. This is caused by the lack of evaporation and can lead to excess moisture.

Ensure proper drainage and cover your compost if heavy rains are expected. If your compost becomes overly wet, mix in dry materials like straw or shredded newspaper to absorb the water and restore the balance.

In areas with heavy winter precipitation, cover your compost pile with a tarp or a compost bin lid. This prevents it from getting too soggy, which can slow down the composting process and lead to unpleasant odors.

FAQs

Winter is not a time to neglect your compost. By implementing these simple tips, you can keep your compost pile healthy and active, ensuring a nutrient-rich start for your spring gardening endeavors. You can learn more about how to boost soil nutrients in our in-depth guide.

Finding stylish ways to incorporate a compost bin into a yard can seem tricky. Often demanding space and not always the most attractive feature, these power houses of the soil can appear a little demanding.

But with some careful thought and forward planning, you can choose an off-the-peg product or devise your own bespoke design to sit seamlessly with your outside space.

There are a few tried and trusted rules on how to make good compost but choosing where to position a compost heap or bin is well worth considering before you get started. It's also an easy task for beginner gardeners to try.

A key consideration is to place it somewhere easily accessible, if you want to keep it topped up with kitchen scraps, discarded paper and cardboard as well as green garden waste.

While just outside the kitchen door might be ideal, many people sit their composter a distance from the house as a safeguard against any potential bad smells or undesirable visitors. However, don’t worry if outside space is really limited, as there are many discreet and helpful composting solutions at hand. You can also try a number of things to stop compost smelling bad.

How to style a compost bin in your yard

Fall is the perfect time to start composting with all those fallen leaves, final lawn clippings and harvested goodies to tidy up and dispose of. But if you are still pondering over the best design ideas and location for your composter, these expert tips will help.

Compost bins for small spaces

If your outdoor patch is short on space, you may think composting is a luxury you can’t afford. Well, the good news is there are some hardworking, small space options out there enabling you to turn kitchen and garden waste into a valuable growing material.

Wormeries are a great way to turn regular, small amounts of food scraps into nutrient rich compost. Freestanding designs such as FCMP’s 6 gallon Worm Composter from Walmart and the Worm farm composter, also from Walmart come in a choice of statement colors and have a stacking tray system enabling small quantities of compost to be harvested regularly in rotation.

Hot bins are another excellent solution, thanks to their fully insulated and odor tight construction. Compact in shape with a small footprint, choose from rectangular and upright designs. These designs tend to be more expensive than cold composters, and need to be placed on a hard surface, but their speedy breakdown of green waste and food scraps makes them super appealing.

Some of the best compost bins are the Aerobin 200 and 400, says Andrew Cook, Vice President of Sales and Marketing at US compost bin distributor Exaco. ‘Not only are they fully insulated for far more efficient production, they also come with a reservoir to collect all the leachate (to be turned into 'compost tea'). These do cost much more – but instead of a 5-7 year lifespan, these last 10-15 years and longer. If done right these produce four times their size annually.’

Another model, the Biolan Thermal Composter, available to buy from Amazon, relies on a ventilation system where cold air is channelled directly to the center of the highly insulated heap, helping to speed up the decomposing process.

Compost bins close to a house

Compact products with a simple, sculptural design are a great solution if the only suitable spot for your composter is within clear view of your home. At their most efficient when positioned in a sunny, free draining site, you want a compost bin that is either a real designer statement or that blends in effortlessly with its surrounding.

Tumbling or rotating compost bins have a neat shape - choose from spheres, cylinders and hexagons - and are fully enclosed, yet ventilated, keeping contents tidy and efficiently breaking down. Products vary from those held securely on waist high metal stands and those sat nearer the ground on a base with easy-to-operate rollers.

Raised tumbling designs tend to be easily accessible, affordable and are usefully out of the reach of children, pets and common pests such as rats and possums. However, they might not be suitable for everyone.

'The number one issue I have with compost tumblers is as they fill up the become very bottom heavy and in turn difficult to say the least to tumble,' says Andrew Cook. 'Older people complain about this a lot. Secondly, the concept of continuously mixing new and old materials is not productive. And, as they are raised of the ground, they have some limitations with respect to good critters getting in, such as earth worms'.

There are lots of petite designs on the market, suitable if placed closer to a house, such as the pleasingly spherical Multifunction Garden Tumbling Composter available on Amazon, or the eye-catching MoNiBloom 17 gallon design you can buy from Walmart.

End of the yard compost bins

Large and multiple heaps are best suited to sizeable gardens where they can be positioned out of sight, away from the house and socializing areas. Having two or three simple compost bins – square, rectangular or circular – is ideal as you can add to one while the other two are at varying stages of decomposition.

There are just a few composting mistakes to avoid but once you get the balance right and a handle on when to turn the contents, creating a quantity of high-quality compost is a cinch.

While many gardeners choose to build their own open-topped bins, from a combination of timber and wire mesh, there are plenty of easy-to-install, off-the-peg products out there. Materials vary from the basic – such as pressure treated timber or cedar slats, such as these from Walmart and steel wire, also from Walmart – to enclosed designs made from polypropylene, such as this bin from Wayfair and recycled plastic, as this design is from Amazon.

If you're concerned about integrating an open topped compost bin into your yard, garden expert Ben Hilton suggests growing a privacy hedge to shield it from view.

‘Evergreen hedges have very dense foliage as well as a fast growth cycle and this combination makes them a perfect choice for anyone looking for long-lasting privacy which won’t take ages to grow. Many of these topiary species require very little supervisory care when fully established,’ he says.

In-ground compost bins

If you love the idea of home composting but don’t want it to be seen from the house, why not try a new-generation design and bury it in the ground. It could be located beneath a border or within a raised bed and surrounded by beautiful perennials, evergreen shrubs, veg crops or colorful climbers.

These nifty products - often known as a ‘bio digesters’ - allow beneficial worms and other hardworking mini critters to move easily in and out of the waste materials, helping to quickly break them down into nutrient rich compost, aerating the surrounding soil and spreading nutrients as they go.

Another decorative option is a hybrid design such as this solar digester, available from Wayfair, that sits part above and part below ground. Sitting discreetly in a border, the shapely, above-ground fillable compartment allows waste to be easily added, while the submerged chamber with neat perforations enables the worms to move freely, distributing the broken-down waste material directly into the soil.

FAQs

Whichever compost bin set up you choose, the fact remains that composting is not only a sustainable way to dispose of waste, but also a wonderful, natural method of creating nutrients for your soil. Many natural products can be added to the compost heap, including these unusual compost ingredients, some of which might surprise you.

I hate waste of all kinds, but food waste makes me feel particularly guilty. One reason is I really love food, but also, it is criminal to throw food away when many go without.

However, some food waste is inevitable as we can't eat every pit, peel and pith that comes about as part of prepping our meals. Many areas have great food waste schemes to tackle this, but if like me, you live in a place without, your options are putting it in the trash or composting it. I do compost what I can, but my compost heap is at the end of my 250-foot garden, and composting takes six months to a year, so I am perhaps not the active composter I wish I was.

So when Lomi offered to send me their new countertop composter, I was intrigued. It promises to turn food waste into usable compost in just one day. Or, if you simply want to decrease the volume of stuff going in your kitchen trash can, it can turn biodegradable elements from bulky buckets into small handfuls in as little as three hours. It can even break down bio-plastics like the bags many eco-conscious companies are using for packaging these days (Lomi included).

A final selling point is that thanks to carbon filters, it won't emit smells. So if you are sick of the stench from your regular countertop compost bin, or find it attracts fruit flies, you will be well rid.

Sounds amazing. But with prices starting at just under $500 this investment was going to need to earn its keep. Found out how I got on with it in my small country kitchen.

Product specifications

Who would it suit?

If you have a big kitchen – perhaps with a laundry room to keep this out of the way doing it's thing – and you can't make compost as quickly as you use it, then this is certainly for you. It does a really good job of making your fruit and veg waste into a substrate for your garden or houseplants. Grow mode is expensive to run for just this use, but if you get the mix right in Eco-express mode and then put that product into a composter outside to cure over time, you will still get more from your leftovers without needing to get super invested in composting outside.

The other person this would suit is someone with no outside space for composting but a balcony or home filled with plants. If they are really keen to compost this would be the best way to do it inside to avoid pests and smells.

These are quite specific use cases though, and at that price, this machine really needs to justify its existence. And for the majority, I just don't think it does that. If you have a small kitchen, it won't be reducing your trash enough to balance the space it needs on your counter. 

Also, while in the UK we don't have garbage disposals, many US homes do. So while I found it handy to cut my waste into something cleaner and smell-free, you might not find that such an issue if you do have a garbage disposal unit. They are very efficient to run and would cost less for after-dinner cleanups.

Also, because Lomi can't make nice soil from everything you will want to be throwing away, it is not some magic pill to the issue of food waste. That leftover pizza will still be destined for your bin unless you are will to store up things you process in Eco-express or Lomi mode and cure them in a composter outside. Isn't that adding more steps when you could just wait to compost it normally?

So, while it does exactly what it is meant to, I just don't think the average person would get the most of out it.

Unboxing and set up

The Lomi makes a great impression when it arrives. It comes in a box listing all of the things it loves to compost including apple cores, leftover lasagna, peanut shells and even 'that pancake fail' Friendly messages aside, you will be pleased to find it is almost entirely packaged in recycled cardboard and a large bio-plastic bag to protect the unit.

The only bits that were recyclable or compostable were the plug protector and cable tie, but I am industrious – these will go to use somewhere in my home.

We are always impressed when a company takes strides to limit the impact of their packaging, but it would have been a major flaw if the Lomi – a concept born from our want to be eco-conscious – came encased in unnecessary plastics.

What's it like to use?

The unit comes near-enough fully constructed. The compost bucket is in place and all you have to do is fill the two filters with activated carbon (which is supplied) and plug it in.

You get two bags of activated carbon with the Lomi and can buy more online, but note each fill is meant to last at least 45 uses. There should be enough for 90 uses here.

Filling the filters was really easy. The one at the back of the unit is hidden behind a ventilated panel that unclips. Then you take the lid off the filter by unscrewing the wingnuts – no tools required.

You can fill the Lomi up over several days until it is full to the fill line, though it will work with lower quantities too. I think it is best to get it to capacity though so that you use it most efficiently. The instructions tell you to chop larger food waste up to help it along and avoid large pits like avocado stones. As well as fruit and veg waste, the Lomi will take plant clippings, meat and also can break down bio plastics in the Lomi mode.

The Lomi has three different cycles and you choose depending on what you need from your waste (more details on each cycle below). The operation is simple though. Once your Lomi is constructed and plugged in, you simply switch it on and it comes on in default mode. To change to a different mode, you hold the button for two to three seconds to pan between the different options. When you reach your choice, press the button once to start the cycle. 

It is simple as that. Leave it to it and it will show you what stage it is on my illuminating the drying, mixing or cooling lights.

Test 1: Eco Mode

I wanted to get going with the Lomi as soon as I opened it, so I decided to try out Eco-express mode on a few bits of food waste and some dead leaves from my houseplants. This quick setting is designed to reduce your waste in three to five hours. The end product is not ready to use compost – but you could take the remains and cure them in a composter outside. The main benefit of this mode, is to minimize the volume of your food waste as it can take everything from veg peel to leftover meals containing dairy.

The bucket wasn't very full, but I had a good mix of a squeezed lime cut into quarters; half a lemon; an apple core; some plant clippings; egg shells; coffee grounds; cheese rinds; plus some discarded bits of onion peel.

After replacing the lid, I selected Eco-express mode and pressed the button to start. It makes a low whirring noise, not dissimilar to a bread maker. Once I shut my kitchen door, I could barely hear it.

It took a little over three hours to mix and dry the contents. As you can see above, the results were similar to soil mixed with bits of bark and it was less than half the volume of what I put in. I was definitely impressed with how it did this and could see myself using this setting every day to tidy leftovers and stop trash piling up.

Test 2: Lomi-approved mode

The Lomi-approved mode is also designed for reducing waste volume, but unlike Eco-express, it is the best setting to use if you need to get rid of bio-plastics, paper or card. It takes a little longer than the eco mode, at a minimum of five hours, but it can process pretty much anything you put in it.

While bio-plastics will break down, you generally wouldn't want to add them to your compost. So if you want to make organic matter without plastic or card to go on to make compost, Eco-express is a better choice as it is quicker and uses less energy.

I filled the bucket about half full on my first use and included one of the bio-plastic bags from the Lomi packaging. It took around five hours to mix, dry and cool the contents and again I was left with a soil like mix that I put in the trash.

It didn't sound much louder than Eco-express mode but I got out the Decibel X app on my phone to get a reading. With a max of 59.5 dB and an average of 57 right next to the unit, it is pretty unobtrusive and much quieter than other household appliances like vacuums and blenders.

Test 3: Grow Mode

Grow mode is as the name suggests. It turns your waste into a nutrient-rich compost, ready for use in your garden or plant pots. Like the other modes it can take veg and yard trimmings, eggs, tea and coffee, peels and fruit scraps. However it will not take leftover meals, dairy, oily things like nuts and seeds or anything sticky. Anything very processed will impact the texture and quality of the soil made in Grow mode so best avoided.

I used a mix of peelings, egg shells and some coffee grounds, limiting the quantity of fruit rind and apple in this mix for the best results.

This setting took a while. I don't know the exact time as I went out after it had been running for about 17 hours, but it was done by the time I got back which was just before the 20-hour mark.

The compost made in Grow mode is noticably different. It is drier and finer and with a little water added, it made a great product to mix into my coir houseplant mix. It took a VERY long time, but if you're looking to get the most from your food waste in less time than regular composting takes, this is it.

That said, because it can't process a lot of your regular leftovers like anything fatty or too rich, you do need to plan ahead a bit to get the perfect mix to put in Grow mode – segmenting off the best bits to save for when you have enough to warrant a cycle. If I had a bigger family, and we were growing our own food though, this would be great. There would be more fruit and veg peels to put to use and running it in Grow mode once a week would soon give you a good source of compost to spread straight onto your garden or set aside for planting.

Using the Lomipods

The Lomi comes with a pack of LomiPods which are basically a micro-organism tablet that will accelerate the breakdown of organic material, meaning better results on the Grow mode. These were really easy to use: you just add to the bucket with a quater-cup of water before you start the cycle. The results looked pretty similar and it makes no difference to the time it takes to make the compost, but you should be left with a more nutrient-rich compost. The true test of this will be growing something side by side using compost from grow cycle both with and without the LomiPods, but I will leave that test till next summer.

How to clean your Lomi

This is nice and simple. The bucket is dishwasher friendly. Due to the process, it doesn't get too dirty. I found I could use it a few times and just give it a wipe out between if needed as the contents end up very dry. The outside can be wiped too with a damp cloth as needed.

The carbon pellets need replacing every 45 cycles. You can buy them from Lomi and it costs $59.90 for enough for 90 cycles, though they offer subscribe-and-save with 10 per cent off, and frequently run other promotions. 

How much does it cost to run?

The makers of Lomi claim it uses roughly the same amount of power to operate an oven for 15 minutes. But what does that look like in terms of kilowatt hours and cost?

After all, this product is meant to help reduce your carbon footprint, so the last thing we want is it using loads of energy.

We worked out how much each cycle could cost based on the national average costs of electricity. In the US, this is 20¢/kWh.

After doing the math, using the Lomi on Eco-express mode is not bad at all. It is a small price to pay for a more convenient and cleaner route to food waste disposal.

However, I think the cost of using Grow mode is pretty high when you consider how it doesn't cost that much more to buy a bag of compost (and a bigger one at that). Sure, you are preventing something else from going to waste in the process, but if that really bothers you then it is much cheaper to throw it on a compost heap and wait six to 12 months.

As for Lomi's claim that it costs the same to run as an oven, they aren't technically wrong – but when would you ever need to run your oven for more than a couple of hours. To us, this was a bit of a misleading statement to make.

My verdict

This machine really impresses. It does exactly what it claims, and if you want homemade compost ASAP, this takes hours rather than months. However, all the extra steps and the fact that it takes up so much countertop real estate mean that this composter has pretty limited use cases. Expensive to buy and costly to run, the average household would struggle to justify it.

This week, Martha Stewart shared her DIY composting tips, urging gardeners to reduce trash pickups and landfill usage in favor of recycling food waste.

'Composting is a secret weapon for gardeners – it gives food scraps and other natural waste a second life while serving as fuel for healthy plants,' says Martha. 'To make compost, all you need to do is compile organic matter – think food scraps, leaves, grass clippings, and coffee grounds – and let it decompose with the help of water, oxygen, and organisms like worms and fungi.

'This system turns organic waste into something useful, thus decreasing trash pickups and landfill usage. And getting started doesn't necessarily require any special equipment. By following a few simple guidelines and building or buying a compost bin, you can begin your composting journey.'

We asked gardening experts for their top five best practice tips for DIY composting, and composting mistakes to avoid to turn Martha's simple, quick recipe above into reality.

Martha Stewart's DIY composting, step-by-step

Becky Decker from Gardeninghood says, 'Composting is a great way to reduce waste, enrich your garden, and contribute to a sustainable lifestyle. By making your own DIY compost, you can take control of your organic waste and create nutrient-rich soil for your plants.'

Martha's recipe will give you the quickest start and speed up composting; be aware though, composting is never an instant job.

1. Get a composter

Of course, you can make a composter yourself, but if you don't have the time or DIY skills, the Vivosun turning composter at Amazon takes all the effort out of turning the compost and is perfect for small gardens, and the Greenes Fence composter at Walmart is a simple to put together, rustic, bottomless composter, perfect for larger yards.

Choose a location for your compost pile that is well-drained and receives partial shade.

2. Gather the right food scraps

Martha mentions 'food scraps, leaves, grass clippings, and coffee grounds'. Tony O'Neill at Simplify Gardening expands on this for the perfect recipe: 'Combine green waste (like vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, or grass clippings) with brown waste (such as leaves, paper, or small branches). The ratio should be approximately 1:2, green to brown.'

Thomas Villalpando, Co-founder, Author and Editor at I Pet Guides explains why this mix is important: 'Successful composting requires a good mix of green and brown materials. Green materials provide nitrogen. In contrast, brown materials contribute to carbon. Maintaining the right balance is crucial for efficient decomposition and preventing unpleasant odors.'

3. Add oxygen and water

Next, Martha suggests that we 'let it decompose with the help of water, oxygen, and organisms like worms and fungi.'

Let's tackle the oxygen first: Tommy Mello says to 'turn your compost pile every few weeks to ensure that it is aerated and mixed well. This will help to speed up the composting process and prevent the pile from becoming too compact.

'I like to layer the organic materials in a pile, making sure to add a layer of dry leaves or shredded newspaper between each layer of food waste. This will help to create air pockets and promote decomposition,' he says.

Now add water: Becky Decker says: 'Make sure to add water periodically to keep the pile moist (but not soggy). The ideal moisture level is similar to that of a damp sponge.'

Thomas Villalpando of I Pet Guides, adds: 'It's crucial to maintain proper moisture and aeration in your compost pile. If it becomes too dry, the decomposition process slows down, and if it becomes too wet, it may turn anaerobic and produce unpleasant odors. Turning the pile occasionally helps introduce oxygen, promoting the growth of beneficial microorganisms and accelerating decomposition.'

4. Maintain your compost, with worms

Once you've started adding brown and green matter to your compost, 'then it's mainly a matter of time and turning. It can take anywhere from two months to a year, depending on the materials used and how frequently it’s turned,' advises Tony O'Neill at Simplify Gardening.

'This will also prevent unpleasant odors and discourage pests. Monitor the moisture level and add water if necessary, especially during dry periods,' adds Becky Decker.

You can speed up composting by using a wormery; our favorite is the VermiHut Plus at Amazon, which is easy to set up and use, and in dark green can blend into the background.

5. Harvest your compost

'After several months, your compost will transform into dark, crumbly soil-like material. This is a sign that it's ready to be used in your garden. You can either sieve the compost to remove any remaining large particles or use it as it is. Spread a layer of compost around your plants to improve soil fertility, retain moisture, and suppress weeds. Your plants will thank you for the nutrient-rich boost!' advises Becky Decker.

FAQs

Martha is right, says, Becky Decker, 'making DIY compost is not only beneficial for your garden but also for the environment. It reduces waste going to landfills and helps close the nutrient cycle.'

Composting is a great way to keep food scraps and plant clippings out of the landfill, while creating a valuable garden resource for free. However, getting the process right is a bit of a science and some problems can arise.

For instance, your bin may be taking much longer than expected to produce a usable amount of compost. Or, the heap inside may start to smell bad, or look a little slimy. There are also practical errors that are often overlooked, such as putting the heap somewhere that's tricky to reach. But all composting problems can be avoided with the right know-how, which is where this guide can help.

6 mistakes to avoid when making compost in your backyard

Get great results for your garden with these expert tips.

1. Adding the wrong materials

One of the key factors to a healthy and successful compost heap is adding the right ingredients. Raw fruit-and-veggie scraps, cardboard, coffee, and (some) garden clippings are all good additions. There are also more unusual composting materials you can add to your heap – nail clippings and pond algae, for instance. However, some ingredients are best avoided.

Ben Hilton, the Founder and Editor of The Yard and Garden notes how not all organic materials are suitable for composting. 'Avoid adding meat, dairy, fats, and oils, as they can attract pests and produce foul odors,' he says (these shouldn't be added to worm compost bins, either). 'Additionally, refrain from composting diseased plants or those treated with pesticides, as they can introduce harmful pathogens or chemicals to your compost pile.'

Ben also warns against adding cooked food to your compost, explaining that any oil it may contain will attract rodents and create a breeding ground for pathogens.

2. Getting the ratio wrong

It's not just about using the right composting materials. To maintain a healthy heap, you also need to think about how much of each material you're adding at a time.

'A well-balanced compost pile should have a carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio of about 25-30:1,' Ben says. 'Carbon-rich materials (browns) like leaves, straw, and paper provide energy for the microorganisms, while nitrogen-rich materials (greens) like grass clippings, fruit and vegetable scraps, and coffee grounds supply protein. 

'An imbalance in this ratio can lead to a slow decomposition process or foul odors,' he says.

'If you have a lot of one type of material, try to mix it with another,' says John Negus, a gardening expert. ' It is also extremely beneficial to mix the whole heap up (once you have filled the bin to capacity) at least twice during the composting period.'

3. Letting your compost heap get too dry, or too wet

'A compost pile that is too dry will decompose slowly or not at all,' says Ben. This is because the microorganisms responsible for breaking down organic materials need moisture to thrive.

'To remedy this, water your compost pile periodically to maintain a moisture level similar to that of a wrung-out sponge,' he says. 

Note that too much moisture can also be problematic. If your compost heap gets very wet – say after heavy rainfall, and isn't able to drain properly, there is a risk that anaerobic bacteria might move in. 'These do not require oxygen and will produce noxious gases, so your compost heap would end up smelling like stagnant water, or worse,' says John.

Tony O'Neill, the author of Composting Masterclass (available on Amazon) and Founder of Simplifygardening.com, shares a simple method for checking if a compost pile is too dry or too wet: 'Grab a handful of the compost and squeeze it tightly to test if the moisture level is optimal. If more than a single drop of fluid escapes, it's too wet. It has the perfect moisture content if it clumps together and breaks apart easily.'

'Ideally, compost bins should be placed on soil so that soil organisms have easy access and any excess water drains into the soil,' John continues. If your bins do get flooded, you may need to think about turning and re-aerating them, he says. Empty the bin, mix the drier and wetter material together, and then put it all back in again.

'If the bin has a lid, it will prevent the heap from becoming excessively wet, but it may also cause the contents to dry out,' John adds. 'Leave the lid off occasionally to allow rain to penetrate the heap.'

4. Forgetting about wildlife

A compost heap can be a safe haven for visiting wildlife, especially during the colder months. 'Many creatures might take up residence there at this time of year to take advantage of the heat and protection it provides,' John says. 

This isn't necessarily a bad thing. 'Slow worms, hedgehogs, frogs, toads and newts are all beneficial in the garden and although it might be awkward if they make themselves at home in the compost heap for the winter, your garden will benefit from their presence,' he says.

However, if you'd rather not encourage them, don't allow the heap to get too dry and keep cooked food out. 'Perhaps consider turning it regularly, but carefully, not digging too deep, to discourage all large creatures from moving in,' he adds.

5. Putting your compost bin in the wrong place

The location of your compost bin is more important than you might first think. 'Placing your pile in a shady area may prevent it from reaching optimal temperatures, while a spot that is too exposed to sun and wind can cause it to dry out quickly,' says Ben.

Think about how easy it is to access, too, as pointed out by gardener Benita Middleton. You will probably be going back and forth from the bin regularly, so avoid a tucked-away spot that's hard to get to with a wheelbarrow. If you want to hide it from the view of your patio, consider adding a chic garden screen or planting an attractive flowering shrub in front of it.

6. Not harvesting your compost quickly enough

'Allowing finished compost to remain in the pile for too long can cause it to become anaerobic and lose nutrients,' says Ben. 'Keep an eye on the decomposition process and harvest the compost when it reaches a crumbly, earthy texture.' 

It can be used for various gardening endeavors to help plants grow strong and healthy. 'Use your finished compost as a soil amendment, mulch, or in homemade potting mixes to boost plant growth,' Ben says.

FAQs

As with many aspects of gardening, successful composting can be a learning curve. A bit of trial and error can be expected, but the good news is that most problems can be fixed with a spot of aerating, adding the proper balance of materials, and getting the moisture levels right (plus a bit of patience and perseverance). The reward of that lovely, rich compost is well worth the effort.

If you're looking to improve your turf, then it's worth considering the benefits of using compost on your lawn.

Adding a layer of compost is a process used by lawn care professionals to create a green and healthy lawn. Often referred to as ‘top dressing’ it can help rescue poor, undernourished lawns or help keep newly laid sod from drying out and in tip top condition.

‘Composting is an important part of lawn care as it provides essential nutrients to the soil, helping to promote healthy grass growth,’ says Susan Brandt, co-founder of Blooming Secrets. ‘It helps improve the texture and structure of the soil, making it easier for water and nutrients to reach grass roots. Incorporating compost into your lawn can help you achieve a lush, green space that is less prone to weeds.’ 

Benefits of using compost on a lawn

Applying a layer of good-quality compost on your lawn is a great way to boost its condition. Raising nutrient levels, bolstering moisture retention, and encouraging strong, deep roots, it’s definitely a task worth doing. 

‘Top dressing pumps up the level of organic matter in the soil and allows the population of microbial activity in the soil to explode very quickly,’ says David Prew, owner of lawn care experts Plantscape Solutions in Austin, TX. ‘Literally top dressing is like organic steroids for your lawn. It causes the root network of the lawn to get much larger and more efficient at extracting water and nutrients.’

Drawbacks to adding compost to a lawn

On the whole, there aren't any major drawbacks to adding a layer of compost to your lawn. If, however, you repeat this process regularly over a few years it can make significant changes that can also lead to unseen issues. 

Rhys Charles, CEO of Mower On the Lawn explains, ‘Consider the amount of traffic your lawn gets. If you have a lot of foot traffic, using compost could make the lawn too soft. Another consideration is the climate. If you live in an area with a lot of rainfall, using compost could cause the lawn to become waterlogged.’

When to add compost to your lawn

Adding compost to your lawn is best done as part of any spring lawn care or early fall lawn care. Top dressing has most effect when grass is actively growing and you've aerated the lawn. 

One word of warning though, don’t expect to see a visible improvement overnight, as Eric DeBoer, agronomist at Simple Lawn Solutions explains: ‘If you do choose to apply some compost, be patient and temper your expectations. It can take some time for the nutrients contained in the compost to mineralize and become available to your plant. Remember also to not lay it on too thick.’

How to add compost to a lawn

‘There are several ways you can use compost on your lawn such as top dressing, side dressing, or mixing it into the soil. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages so it is important to consider which one would work best for you before deciding,’ says Susan Brandt. 

Generally, adding a ¼ or ½ inch layer on top and spreading it out with a flat, wide headed rake, such as this aluminum landscape rake from Amazon, is the quickest and easiest technique.

'Make sure you don't add a layer that's more than half an inch thick,' says gardening expert Steve Bradley. 'The grass needs to grow through it and form roots at a higher level. If the top dressing is too deep the grass beneath will die off and leave a bare patch where weeds can establish.'

Choosing the right type of compost for your lawn

Both homemade and commercial compost can be used on lawns, but it is important that it is of good quality otherwise you can end up adding to your lawn’s problems. 

Issues such a patchy die-back or invasive weeds can be caused by using compost that has not broken down thoroughly. Responsibly made compost follows a process that essentially breaks down any remaining pesticides or herbicides that may have been present in the organic matter.

FAQs

Adding a layer of compost to your soil can be an effective way to boost the growth of your grass, helping to make your lawn green and thick. 

By using good-quality compost to top dress your lawn in spring or early fall, you'll reap the benefits of this simple task for months to come. 

A wormery turns kitchen scraps into valuable, nutrient-rich vermicompost, as well as 'worm tea' for diluting and using as a liquid fertilizer. If you don't have one already, they're well worth considering if you're trying to be more eco-friendly.

'In winter, worm activity slows down a lot, but as conditions warm again in spring you can kick-start the worm-composting process,' says Lucy Chamberlain, a fruit-and-veg-growing expert. Now's the time to move your wormery out of its frost-free spot – or unwrap its winter coat of bubble wrap – empty any surplus liquid, and give it the first feed of the year, she adds.

But when feeding your wormery, there are some dos and don'ts to bear in mind. Cooked veggies, and many raw ones, can be added, as well as eggshells, teabags, and even carbohydrates such as bread. Soft, green, garden waste can also go into your wormery, providing you don't overdo it. But there are some kitchen scraps and other items that should be left out, as they can cause unpleasant odors, attract pests, harm your worms, and slow down the composting process.

6 foods to keep out of your wormery

Wormeries are a great addition to a sustainable garden. But, just like when making regular homemade compost, there are some things that are best left out if you want to avoid making a composting mistake.

1. Acidic foods

Worms do not like acidic foods so do not feed them any citrus fruit, including the rinds, says Annie Bernauer, owner of the Montana Homesteader website. 'These foods make the worm bin too acidic so the worms won't thrive.' In fact, some gardeners claim that too much acidity can kill them. Onions, garlic, and tomatoes can also cause this problem.

If you must add these foods, only add a small amount, and you can add lime, too, to neutralize the effects. Cooking the food first can also help.

2. Fatty products, including meat

Annie also advises against adding dairy, meat products, bones, fats, oils or sauces to your wormery. Why? These foods will quickly go rancid which will give off a very unwelcome odor, plus they are likely to attract flies and other pests such as skunks.

3. Spicy foods

Annie says not to add spicy foods to your wormery, such as hot chili peppers. 'These foods can irritate the soft-skinned worms and negatively impact their health.' 

As a result, they are likely to avoid them entirely, meaning your composting process will slow down.

4. Salty or processed food

'Salty foods and highly processed foods are unhealthy for worms and can harm their digestive systems,' says Annie.

If you do add a small amount in, be sure to balance it out with plenty of veggies and other wormery-friendly foods to maintain a healthy system.

5. Some types of paper

Shredded paper, including newspaper, can be a great addition to wormeries, as can small pieces of cardboard. They are good at absorbing moisture and are carbon-rich, which will help make your wormery thrive.

But, avoid feeding composting worms shiny paper, bleached paper or highly colored paper, Annie says. 'The inks and chemicals in these products can be toxic to the worms.'

6. Woody garden waste

If you've recently been pruning your roses or other shrubs, it may be tempting to add the woody garden waste to your wormery. But, the Royal Horticultural Society advises against this, especially in large quantities, as it will slow down the composting process. Put these in your usual compost heap instead, if you have one.

Shop wormery essentials:

FAQS

As with many things, feeding a wormery is all about balance – so keep the food you put in it varied, and avoid these troublesome types listed above. You'll be rewarded with happy, hardworking worms and plenty of valuable, nutrient-boosting material for preparing garden soil for planting.

You might think you know what to put on your compost heap and what to leave out, but there are several unusual compost ingredients that most of us probably don’t think about adding. It means you could have many more potential materials to add to your heap than you realise.

The best homemade compost is created from a balanced mix of green and brown materials. The ‘green’ stuff includes lawn clippings, dead flowerheads, soft leafy prunings, and kitchen waste made up of raw fruit and vegetable peelings. ‘Brown’ waste is woody matter, prunings, twigs, shredded cardboard and paper, and even some compostable tea bags. It degrades more slowly and helps prevent the compost heap from becoming a sloppy, smelly mess.

As well as these traditional materials, however, there are a few more surprising ones you can include too that can give your compost a boost. From old wool to the contents of your vacuum cleaner, the list of ingredients might surprise you.

Our top 10 unusual compost ingredients

Making homemade compost in your own composter is good on so many levels, saving money, helping to reduce the amount of green waste you need to take to the neighborhood green waste depot and also providing the bedrock of successful sustainable gardening.

Although getting the wrong mix of ingredients can be a common composting mistake, these more unusual compost ingredients will give your compost a boost.

1. Hair and nail clippings

Most people shed between 50 and 100 hairs a day, either when brushing or washing their hair or through natural loss. Instead of losing it down the plug hole (which will cause irritating bathtub drain blockages), collect your hair and add it to the compost heap. The same applies to pet hairs. After giving your cat or dog a brush, add the lost fur to the compost bucket.

Hair is a rich source of slow-release nutrients including nitrogen, one of the three essential components of fertilizer (you'll see it highlighted on plant fertilizer numbers) and is important for good leafy growth. You may also see garden birds swooping down to the compost heap to collect hair to make a soft lining for their nests and bird house.

Nail clippings can also be added to the compost heap. Like hair, they are organic and will rot down over time.

2. The contents of your vacuum cleaner

Did you know that those drifts of small grey particles that accumulate almost invisibly on our floors and are only seen when brushed up are actually dead skin cells?

Horrible, right? Well yes, but dead skin is one of the main ingredients of dust and instead of removing dust and tipping it into the bin, like all organic matter it will break down and enrich your compost.

The contents of your vacuum cleaner’s collection bag can also be added, especially if you have wool carpets as natural fibres make excellent composting material – in fact some of the best environmentally sound peat moss alternative composts are made from wool.

If you have pets you will no doubt be vacuuming regularly to get rid of hairs and smells from the carpet, so you will have lots to add to your compost heap!

3. Wool

Do you have old wool socks that are on the point of falling to bits and can’t be darned any more? Or an old wool sweater that is past the point of repair?

If so, snip them up small and compost them! If that feels too wasteful, use the old clothes as an insulating type of mulch or unravel them and use the wool as garden twine.

4. Fluff from the tumble dryer

We may be hesitating to use our tumble dryers in the cost of living crisis, but used wisely you can keep the costs down and get the best results.

However much you use yours, regularly removing the lint from around a tumble dryer seal is important for home safety because if too much accumulates is can be a fire hazard.

Instead of throwing it away, break it up and add it to the compost heap where the cotton and wool fibres will add structure to the mix.

5. Used matches and wooden chopsticks

Matches and wood chopsticks can be added to your compost heap as ‘brown’ material that degrades more slowly than leaves and grass.

Always wash and cut up the chopstick before adding them to the compost, so they break down more quickly.

Most importantly, always make sure the match heads are cold before adding them – dunk them in water first if you're not sure.

6. Barbecue ash

It is widely known that there are many uses for wood ashes in the garden. It is an excellent source of potassium, an important nutrient that helps plants flower and crop well.

Ash from grills and fire pits can also be added to the compost heap, but make sure you remove all traces of cooked food beforehand so you don't attract rats and flies. I like to sieve it using my garden soil sifter to make sure it is clean enough to throw on the heap. This Wazakura three-piece soil sieve set from Amazon would do the job well.

It's also important to wait for 48 hours to make sure it has totally cooled before adding it otherwise it will be a fire risk in very dry weather.

7. Chicken manure and pet bird litter

Chicken manure pellets, like these dehydrated pellets from Amazon, are one of the best all-round fertilizers, a quick, easy and economical way of adding nutrients to your soil in spring before planting.

If you have chickens, or you know someone who does, ask them for the dirty straw and droppings when they clean out their coop. Add it to the compost heap and let it degrade. Never add the bird poop straight onto the soil as the high levels of nitrogen will burn young plants.

You can also use the droppings from caged pet birds but, again, compost them before use.

8. Droppings and straw from household pets

When you clean out the cages of small pets such as rabbits, guinea pigs, gerbils and mice that eat a meat-free diet, instead of throwing the mucky sawdust and straw into the bin add it to the compost heap.

It will quickly break down and the straw or sawdust is classed as a ‘brown’ material and will help the pile stay healthy and not too soggy.

Never add litter from meat-eating pets such as cats and never add dog mess to the compost heap as it will attract flies, vermin and disease.

9. Algae and plants from fish tanks and ponds

When you come to clean out your fish tank, save the old weed and scrape the algae off the side of the aquarium and add it to the compost heap.

You can also add the aquarium water to the compost heap if the weather has been dry to help dampen the mix and speed up the composting process.

Pond plants can also be added, though leave them on the side of the water feature for 48 hours first, so any bugs and beasties living in them can escape back into the water.

10. Household paper

No matter how organized your home office, old household paperwork is bound to be piling up. If it is, have a declutter by composting it.

Old paid bills, paper napkins, clean pizza boxes, ancient school assignments, birthday cards and paper gift wrapping can all be shredded and composted. There are even lots of paper festive waste items you can compost.

Never add shiny, glossy paper to your compost heap as it contains plastic and won't break down.

While the traditional material options for your compost bin are always going to be a good bet, adding some more unusual options is a great way to give your homemade compost an extra boost. You'll soon develop a nutrient rich compost that's perfect for fertilizing and mulching plants to help them grow.

Making compost at home is a cheap and simple way to boost your soil and give your precious plants all the nutrients they need to grow big and healthy. 

Getting the mix of green and brown materials right is key to great compost. You can use kitchen waste, grass cuttings, leaves, shredded newspaper and even coffee grounds. One other unexpected, and highly beneficial ingredient, you can add to a homemade compost pile is human urine. 

Many may turn their nose at the thought of being able to put urine on compost, but it is a great source of nitrogen and can even speed up the decomposition process of your compost. Also it is readily-available, free, and incredibly easy to add to any compost heap.

Benefits of urine on compost

Composting is an important part of any garden as it allows gardeners to take what could otherwise be seen as waste materials and turn them into something that feeds and nourishes plants. The addition of compost can boost all soil types, helping you get beautiful blooms or bumper crops in your backyard or vegetable garden. ‘Peecycling’ is simply another aspect of this, that is the term is given to recycling human urine and using it to help feed plants and crops.

Human urine is beneficial as part of a composting system as it has a high nitrogen content along with containing potassium and phosphorus. These three are the main nutrients that are essential to healthy plant growth and ones that you see referred to as NPK on plant fertilizer labels.

Urine fits in as one of the ‘green’ layers in composting, along with the likes of grass clippings from mowing a lawn and kitchen waste, that all contain nitrogen. However, the higher concentration of nitrogen in urine acts as a compost activator and actively speeds up the process of composting. It can be highly beneficial to give an extra boost to a compost heap that is decomposing slowly, a new heap that needs to initiate decomposition, or for breaking down coarser organic matter like leaves.

Alexia Allen from Hawthorn Farm, a garden and homestead consultant in Woodinville, WA, describes urine as ‘a fantastic nitrate fertilizer’ and adds that ‘of course the price is right’. She claims she would ‘hundred percent’ recommend people to put urine on compost heaps at home.

‘So many home composts are not strong enough when it comes to plant-fertilizing power, and adding urine is a fantastic way to boost plant nutrients without having to pee directly on your garden, and to capture your personal nutrients during the season the plants aren't actively needing nutrients,' adds Alexia. ‘So many people lament the fact that they don't have livestock to add fertility to their pile, and I reply that they can be their own livestock.’

Another benefit of using urine is it helps keep the compost heap moist. The bacteria and fungi in the compost need moisture to work effectively and a dry heap will stop breaking down. 

How to put urine on compost

There are a few different ways to put urine in a compost heap and how you choose to do it may come down to personal preferences and the location of your compost heap. 

The simplest way is to urinate straight on the heap itself, though this may obviously be easier and more preferential for some rather than others. Ultimately it may depend on how private your heap is or how bold you are as a person. You can always urinate into a container to add to the heap, though make sure to do this relatively quickly to the heap – ideally adding it to the heap within 24-48 hours.

There are other ways to add urine in compost without it being put directly onto the heap itself every time. One is to add urine directly to straw until it decomposes and then mix that into your compost heap. An example of this was previously done by the National Trust in the UK. At its gardens at Wimpole Hall in Cambridgeshire they introduced straw ‘pee bales’ that male workers could relieve themselves on (outside of the public opening hours) that were then added to the garden’s compost heaps.

You can even harness the nitrogen-rich power of the urine by making compost without an existing heap being utilized. Alexia Allen from Hawthorn Farm recommends a method of making a big pile of leaves and then adding urine to it over winter. By spring she claims it will be ‘extra-rich and crumbly and better than your average compost’. This can either be added to a compost heap or put directly onto the garden as a rich leaf mulch.

Danger of too much urine in compost

Human urine is sterile when it leaves the body and safe to add to compost. The only time it tends not to be is if a person has a urinary tract infection, while some medications can also be present in trace amounts so caution should be taken. Urine should be added in moderation to compost as it does have high salt levels. While humans will urinate several times a day, it is not necessary to add it all to the compost heap – too much is not always a good thing.

The main issue to consider when putting urine on compost is the ratio of green and brown materials that you have in the heap. Ideally, you want a 2:1 ratio of brown-to-green. Too much nitrogen-rich green material will see your compost heap emit a smell of ammonia. As urine is so rich in nitrogen, you must ensure that you add even more brown material to counteract it. So make sure to have lots of sawdust, leaves, cardboard or straw to add too, that way you end up with perfect compost that makes one of the best types of mulch.

Other uses for urine in the garden

Urine is perfectly fine for compost, however it is too strong in nitrogen to add directly to many live plants. Brian Campbell, a degree holder in Environmental Studies, founder of Water Filter Guru, and avid gardener, warns: ‘Human urine is abundant in phosphorus and nitrogen, which are essential nutrients for healthy plant growth. However, the amount of urine should be regulated depending on the plant. Some plants can tolerate undiluted urine, while others may need diluting to avoid negative consequences.’ Though it may be tempting to give some of your plants a direct boost of nitrogen, maybe it's best to keep the pee for the compost heap.

Looking online you do see some other recommendations for using pee in the garden. Some recommend watered-down urine diluted with 10 parts water as a great feed for plants in container gardens, while others claim you can put urine on mulches like leaf mulch or wood chip to speed up their decomposition. 

While it may sound a bit off-putting to many gardeners, the benefits of putting urine on compost mean it should really be considered. Not only is it rich in nitrogen, but it can also speed up the composting process – there are two big positives that it offers. It is a free and natural way to nourish your garden and can help you get more blooms on your flowers or better crops. 

If you are planning a kitchen garden, then it may be worth considering putting urine in compost. This may be something you have never thought about before, but the benefits are real and seriously worth taking into account.

A lasagne garden is an easy-to-do organic gardening approach that involves building new beds through the simple layering of everyday materials.

Lasagna gardening is a method of no dig gardening that utilizes stuff that may otherwise be seen as waste and turns them into nutrient-rich soil to grow a wide range of plants. The beds can smother weeds and be built directly on top of grass.

Using the likes of garden waste, grass cuttings, kitchen scraps, and newspaper it is possible to create an incredible and rich garden bed in as little as six months. If you cannot wait that long though, the addition of a layer of compost on top of the lasagna bed means you can plant straight away.

What is lasagna gardening?

Lasagna gardening is also called sheet composting and it involves stacking a range of compostable material in layers. Over time, these layers will decompose and develop into a very nutrient-rich soil that is ideal for a wide range of plants. Lasagna gardening beds can be started on open ground, even sitting directly on top of grass or very weedy areas of the backyard, and sit above the ground. Alternatively, it can be a successful method to fill a frame if you are thinking of raised bed garden ideas for low-maintenance planters.

Why should I try the lasagna gardening method?

There is a range of benefits that lasagna gardens can offer. The main one is that it is a method that saves waste and makes use of materials that may otherwise be sent off to landfills. It makes it an environmentally-friendly method of gardening as the likes of cardboard, newspapers, grass clippings, garden waste, kitchen scraps, and more can all be used to make lasagna beds.

Allison Vallin Kostovick, organic gardener and the creator of Finch + Folly, adds that no tools are required to create these ‘incredible, rich garden beds’ that are a ‘win-win’ as they repurpose lots of waste.

‘These no-till gardens, also known as sheet mulching, are wonderful because they are built on items you’re probably looking to get rid of, like broken branches, dried leaves and kitchen waste,’ she adds.

‘Because these beds are built on a foundation that focuses on carbon and nitrogen creation, you’re essentially creating self-sustaining compost-rich beds that will enrich your soil as they gradually break down. These beds also tend to be fairly drought-friendly as they hold and retain water and slowly leech it out into the soil over the season.’

Lasagna beds are also likely to experience fewer weeds, thanks to the layers of cardboard and other suppressing material, and require less fertilizer to be added as the soil made by the decomposing materials will be rich in nutrients needed by plants. No dig and lasagna beds are full of nutrient-rich compost that offers essential nutrients in the form of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium – seen as NPK on plant fertilizer labels – that are released slowly to the plants.

Materials for a lasagna garden

The method for how to make a lasagna garden bed is very simple and can be done in just a few steps. You do need a lot of materials to make up the different layers of the bed, though, thankfully many of these can be found around the home or backyard.

You firstly need cardboard or newspaper to create the base of the lasagna bed and that will form the layer that supresses the grass or weeds beneath it. On top of that you will need to source twigs or branches that can be piled on top of the cardboard, enough to form a layer a few inches thick. After that, it is then the case of using both 'green' and 'brown' ingredients to layer up the bed.

'Brown' ingredients can include the likes of dried leaves, shredded newspaper, wood ash, pine needles or straw, while the 'green' layers can be made up of grass clippings, kitchen scraps, or garden waste. Ideally you want large quantities of each of these, as each layer need to be 3-5 inches deep and you need enough for three 'brown' layers and two layers made up of 'green' material. 

When building the beds, take care not to source and use any garden material that may have seeds in them, as the bed will not generate heat like composting to kill the seeds and they will likely sprout. 

What are the best plants for a lasagna garden bed?

The soil as a result from the decomposing materials in the bed will be nutrient-rich and suitable for a wide range of plants. As with any no-dig gardening method, the combination of carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials that go into making the bed creates a rich soil full of humus that is full of nutrients and slowly releases these to the plants over an extended period of time. That makes lasagna gardening perfect for growing practically any plant, including any of the ideal no dig garden plants perfectly suited to the growing method.

Allison Vallin Kostovick adds: ‘Once your bed has had a chance to break down and settle more, then you can plant anything you’d like. Once your bed is established, you can plant whatever to your heart’s content. I plant anything and everything in mine, from perennials to vegetables to huge and hulking sunflowers.’

Lasagna beds are ideal if you are looking for flower bed ideas or vegetable garden ideas and want to try something more environmentally friendly in your backyard.

Can you plant immediately in a lasagna garden?

Ideally, best practice is to wait usually between six months and a year before planting into a lasagna garden bed. This gives the bed the time to fully break down and allow the microbes in the decomposing materials to do their thing. The exact time the materials take to break down will depend on the types of materials used and in what ratio. A good sign the beds are ready is when you cannot identify any of the waste materials that went into making the beds. For example, leaves or kitchen waste added do not look like leaves or kitchen scraps and more like soil.

If you cannot wait that long and want to plant immediately into a lasagne garden, then there is a solution available. Top the beds with 10-14 inches of compost and you plant into them right away. Allison Vallin Kostovick says that, if you choose to plant straight away, then it is best to focus on ‘more shallow-rooted veggies like broccoli, kale, lettuce, onions, cabbage, spinach, herbs and annual flowers’. 

A lasagne garden is an environmentally-friendly and hassle-free way to both use up waste materials and get nutrient-rich beds in which to grow any plants you want. While the main hurdle to this sustainable gardening idea could be getting enough material to be able to make the layers, sourcing from friends, neighbors, and family can help bolster your supplies and give you everything you need to create lasagna beds in your backyard.

Garden mulches reduce the need to weed and water, amongst other benefits, and there is a wide variety to choose from. So, if you thought your only option was compost, think again. Sure, it's one of the most popular top dressings – but if you're buying the pre-bagged stuff, the costs can quickly rack up. 

Choosing an alternative may help your budget go further, but that's not the only reason to explore your mulching options. After all, each one comes with its own benefits that might be better suited to your yard.

The important thing to remember is that mulches can be divided into two main categories: inorganic and organic. The key distinction between them is that organic mulches (which are naturally derived) will slowly break down into the soil, improving its structure and fertility. Inorganic ones won't, but on the plus side, they don't need replacing as often. To help you decide which mulch is right for your outdoor space, we've shared all the info you need to know on eight of the best.

5 types of organic mulch

Want to mulch your garden the natural way? These options are easy to apply, eco-friendly, and, in most cases, will gradually be pulled down into the ground by garden worms, giving your soil an extra boost of nutrients.

1. Homemade compost

We'll start with compost – a classic soil improver that's rich in nutrients. Dig it into topsoil or add it to your containers and your plants will get a great head start – but it also makes a brilliant mulch.

Making homemade compost puts food scraps to good use – cutting back household waste and saving pennies in the process. Decomposition is sped up if you opt for hot composting or worm composting methods, but whatever approach you take, the resulting material will be crumbly, earth-like, and brimming with goodness.

Pile it on thickly around your plants and it will keep weeds at bay, help the soil retain moisture, and act as a protective blanket against winter weather. And, over time, all those nutrients will gradually make their way into the soil. 

The downsides? You'll need to replace it once or twice a year to continue reaping the benefits. It also isn't the prettiest of options.

2. Bark chippings

Wood chips break down slower than compost, and are less effective at improving the soil. On the plus side, they look attractive and can be budget-friendly – if you find a local source. It can be worth contacting local arborists, too, for any going spare. Generally, you'll need to go and pick them up, so bear this in mind.

'My favorite place to get mulch is from our city's public works department,' says Deborah Niemann, the owner of Thrifty Homesteader, who explains how there are huge piles free for the taking. 'My husband takes the pick-up truck over there and they use a bucket loader to pick it up and dump it into the back of the pick-up. If you wanted a smaller amount, you could certainly take a garbage can over there and fill that up, but I love that we can get so much so quickly. 

'Since we don't know where it came from and what it might have been sprayed with, we don't use this in the vegetable garden, but instead, we use it on paths and in our flower garden.' When it's free, you can easily put a couple of inches down, which means very few weeds can poke through, she adds.

You can even use your own garden waste if you've recently taken down a tree or a shrub. But wherever you get it from, if it's relatively fresh, allow it to break down a bit first. John Negus, a garden expert from Amateur Gardening, advises adding your own shredded material to your compost heap where, after several weeks, it will turn brown and fragment into 
raw humus.

'If you don’t do this, and use the shreddings straight from the shredder, soil bacteria, in decomposing them, will remove valuable nitrogen from the soil. This will leave it bereft of this element, which is vital for the development of robust foliage.'

3. Grass clippings

Mowing your lawn not only smartens up your plot but can also provide you with fresh, and free, mulch. Providing the clippings are short, dry and definitely devoid of weeds, simply leave them on the top of your turf and they'll release valuable nitrogen into the soil. This will help to keep your lawn luscious and green.

Marjorie Beausoleil of Ethos Seed also uses grass clippings to mulch her vegetable garden. If you decide to do this too, again, ensure they're dry and without weeds, and avoid piling them up too thickly to prevent that rotting grass aroma.

'It always encourages worms and other beneficial insects to become more active and decomposes faster than most gardeners will believe,' she says. 'I have to reapply the grass clipping mulch many times a season – so much so that we sometimes mow the lawn simply in order to produce the mulch! It is also the most effective mulch we know to keep moisture in the ground.

'One thing: all lawns used to produce the grass clipping mulch should be free of chemicals. Even organically treated lawns can have a detrimental effect on the beneficial insects present in the vegetable garden,' she adds.

4. Leaf mold

Raking up leaves is on everyone's list of fall backyard jobs, but think twice before you add them to your garden waste. Instead, use them to make leaf mold: a valuable mulching material that's free and rich in nutrients.

All you need to do is pack the leaves into bin bags, with a few holes for drainage, and leave them out of sight to break down. The downside is you'll need to wait several months to use it, but it's worth it.

5. Ground cover plants

Benjamin Vogt, a natural garden designer and author of A New Garden Ethic (available on Amazon), chooses to use a green mulch, or living mulch, in his designs. The idea is to build up dense layers of planting, and the result is a wilder, nature-inspired look that works well for prairie-style borders.

'On our new installs we may use an initial thin layer of wood mulch to help lower germination rates of annual weeds like foxtail or crabgrass while increasing soil moisture. But, the plan is to have the desirable plants we installed self-sow, spread, and fill in quickly,' he explains. 'Too much wood mulch would impede that process. As the plants fill in, they naturally outcompete weeds and no further wood mulch applications are needed.'

He uses a base layer or ground cover of native sedges (Carex spp.) or native short bunchgrasses (Bouteloua spp.) planted 12 inches apart on a grid. Intermediate and architectural layers, which are often seasonal flowers, are then planted around this.

 3 types of inorganic mulch

Sure, inorganic mulches won't give your soil that nutrient boost, nor will they improve its aeration, as organic mulches do. They are very low maintenance, though, as you won't need to replace them anywhere near as often once they've been set. And they have other benefits, too.

1. Gravel and pebbles

These types of mulch are one of the best for upping the aesthetics of your flower beds and borders. There are lots of color combinations to go for, as a quick search on Amazon demonstrates.

Ideal for dry gardens, they look much better than bare soil, while helping to suppress weeds and retain moisture just as organic mulches do. What's more, if it rains, they won't wash away, and they help to prevent soil erosion in inclement weather. 

They can be used to create informal pathways, to top patio pots, or to surround perennials planted in the ground. Avoid using them around annuals though, as they can be arduous to remove again when the time comes to re-plant.

2. Landscaping fabric

A solid choice for getting rid of weeds and warming the soil for new seedlings – particularly in a vegetable garden – is landscaping fabric. It is relatively inexpensive (try Amazon) and easy to lay. You don't even need to remove weeds first.

Once it's down, you simply need to cut crosses into the fabric to plant through. It's not visually attractive, but this can be improved by adding a top layer of bark chippings or other material if you wish.

3. Rubber mulch

These types of mulch divide gardeners somewhat. On the one hand, they're effective at retaining warmth and moisture in soil, suppressing weeds, and they won't attract insects or release a rotting smell as some organic mulches do. They are usually made from recycled material, such as old tires, and are a particularly great option for backyard play areas, providing a cushioned fall. Rubber mulches also last a long time and there are various color and style options available.

But, there are drawbacks to consider. Initial costs aren't usually low and there's no beneficial nutrient boost to your soil. And yes, there's no smell of decomposition – but on a warm sunny day, you may get a whiff of hot rubber instead. As well as this, it's highly flammable and some say it releases chemicals over time, which may affect your garden plants and even create a health risk.

Which are the cheapest types of mulch?

Natural mulches that you can make yourself are generally the way to go if you're after budget garden ideas. This means that homemade compost, grass clippings and leaf mold are top of the list – and as a bonus point, you'll be recycling waste while you're at it. As mentioned, if you can find a source, wood chips can be budget-friendly, too – but when bought in bags from garden centers, this method can get a little costly.

Gardeners know that when they dig into their vegetable beds and garden borders, and unearth lots of wriggling worms, then the soil is healthy, aerated, and ready for planting. So it make sense to harness the soil-conditioning superpowers of these wonder-wrigglers to make compost.

Using a wormery for composting does just that, providing a home for them where they can feed on kitchen food scraps and peelings and, in turn, produce a nutrient-rich compost from their own waste.

It's a sustainable ecosystem that I, an Irish chef and food writer, have introduced into my sustainable smallstead. Here, I share the results…

Why I wanted a wormery

When we first moved into Broadspear and began our backyard smallstead, I wanted to know how to make compost, so I started looking at all the different ways to start a composting system.

I set up a regular everyday waste composter, a large leaf composter (which is made from pallets) and also two wormeries. I had never even seen a wormery in use before, but I was so intrigued with the idea of living things mulching away on leftover bits from my kitchen.

If you haven’t heard of a wormery, it is basically a box made up of at least two or three trays with holes in them, which contain composting worms that eat waste from the kitchen. The upper tray is where you keep the composting worms, and where you place your waste. The worms eat their way through the waste and poo out the most fantastic rich soil. The tray underneath is where all the liquid goes.

Setting up my wormery

Our wormeries, from a company called Wormcity, are made from recycled plastic and they came with 500g of live worms per bin – that’s approximately 1,500-2,000 worms depending on their size! 

I can't deny, the day they arrived I did get a bit squeamish about all the worms – hundreds of them wriggling away – but they are completely harmless. It was pretty easy to piece the bins together; they just need a layering of newspaper and you're off. 

A wormery is relatively easy to maintain, even though I have to admit the first batch of worms did not survive – so learn from my mistakes! You need to place the wormeries in a non-windy spot that doesn’t have direct sunlight. They don’t like being too cold or too hot. 

Another lesson I learned is that they eat slowly. Each worm will eat about double their own size, so just start off small and then increase the waste as you go along, until you work out how much they can get through.

Worm 'tea' & rich compost

It takes about two months for the worms to start producing compost, but then all composting takes time. Patience is definitely a virtue when you’re trying to operate in tune with nature. 

You can feed the worms lots of things, from coffee to green waste and bread, but some foods should be avoided. It is a small bin, so it doesn’t take up too much space, which is great if you don’t have a big garden but want to live more sustainably. 

The wormery compost is brilliant for the vegetable garden, it is very rich, so you don’t need to add huge amounts. We tend to mix it in with our other compost as an enricher. With the liquid ‘worm tea’ I dilute it with water, about one part worm tea to 10 parts water. This makes a brilliant plant feed – my tomatoes seem to love it! If you’re not squeamish – and even if you are – get yourself a wormery to make super-rich compost for extra delicious vegetables in your garden.

See more from Clodagh McKenna on her website.

British furniture designer, eco expert and Homes & Gardens columnist, Sebastian Cox charts the renovation of his home, one inspiring and innovatively eco-friendly idea at a time. Each month, he digs deep into the ways in which we can all make a difference within our homes. 

Next up, Sebastian discusses how to make compost, food waste and everything you need to know about home composting. It may not sound like the most glamorous topic but it's certainly one that will make a difference. How we treat our soil ultimately determines the quality of food we consume, so compost – and soil in general – is an important consideration for our future health. 

'May and June is such an exciting time of year, with the veg patch and garden accelerating in growth. Many people have discovered such pleasure in growing at home in the last few years. I hope they find joy too in feeding it all with a dose of home made compost, for extra earthly satisfaction.' says Sebastian. 

Here are some things to consider if you're looking to make a composter for your garden or outdoor space. 

Rubbish is our responsibility 

'In Margate it’s seagulls rather than foxes that empty bins and scatter the contents over the pavements. This is particularly distressing living next to the sea as it only takes a matter of hours before plastic can be breezed into the wash.' says Cox. 

'People blame the gulls, but I jump to their defence – they are scavengers, doing what they’ve evolved to do to survive. My response is to question why there’s anything in a bin for seagulls to eat anyway? We have to take responsibility for our rubbish, and more importantly than any other category of our ‘waste’ is our food waste.' 

'An astonishing one third of food produced globally is wasted, more than enough to feed the undernourished people of the world. The production of food is environmentally costly so cutting waste, as always, is priority number one.' You can even use a wormery for compost.

Composting – what's the process? 

'When food rots, it produces greenhouse gases. The conditions in which this rotting occurs affect its global warming potential. Broadly, different types of decomposition produce either carbon dioxide, or methane (a more potent greenhouse gas) in different ratios.' 

'The more oxygen present during the rotting of organic matter, the less methane released. So if food waste ends up in a landfill site, it’s compressed with other rubbish, making a lower oxygen environment for decomposition and more methane heating our planet.'

Start composting at home

'If your local authority offers food waste collection, as ours does, use it. It will be decomposed properly and the nutrients recycled. Better still, learn to compost at home and grow some plants with the compost. If you’re lucky to have a large garden with room for a compost heap, making one is a no brainer – pallets can be used to make some sides, and mixing leaf litter with food waste will slowly make a compost usable on a garden.'

What do we need to start composting? 

'The two products I use, after much research, are a ‘Hotbin’ and a ‘Subpod’. A Hotbin uses microbial activity to break food down, creating a hot environment which can sterilise pathogens, so that’s where the dog poo goes, and meat or bones can too. It’s a black polystyrene bin with a thermometer in the top. If you keep it topped up it will produce usable compost in 3 months, which you can extract from the bottom.'

A Subpod primarily uses worms to decompose the food. It’s a plastic box buried in the ground with perforated holes giving the worms access to the soil around. These marvellous creatures not only break down the organic matter, but then generously distribute it around your garden in their castings, before returning to the subpod to munch more food.

What needs to happen next? 

Both have to be fed in conjunction with ‘dry carbon’, so get a cheap cardboard shredder and make good use of that amazon packaging to ensure your compost isn’t a wet rotting soup. Our food-frugal family of four produces enough food trimmings to keep both micro ecosystems alive and thriving, as well as feed two bantam chickens higher value waste like bread crusts and uneaten Weetabix from our two young kids. In food terms, we have eliminated waste in our small urban garden, circulating our trimmings into valuable nutrients for growing.

Knowing how to make a composter is one of the best ways to make your home and backyard more environmentally friendly – not only does it help you to reduce your kitchen waste, but it will also generate high quality compost that will help your garden ideas to thrive.

Of course, once you've learnt how to make a composter, then the next step is how to make compost – this will help you to create rich compost for your garden, helping you to save money and realise your sustainable garden ideas.

'While it may not seem like it, food waste can contribute significantly to carbon emissions – six percent of global greenhouse gas emissions come from food loss and waste. But creating your own compost means you not only reduce food waste, but you also create nutrient-rich compost that is great for your garden without having a buy a thing,' explain the gardening experts at The Greenhouse People.

How to make a composter

Simply put, a composter is a vessel in which you make compost - whether that is traditional cold compost or the hot compost. They can be any size and shape from round barrels through to square wooden structures, there are even rotating designs that help to speed up the composting process.

Before you learn how to make a composter, you need to decide which DIY compost bin you want to make – the easiest is the round barrel composter; though a wooden composter will blend more seamlessly into your wildlife garden ideas, or the more technically challenging rotating composter can produce compost in as little as three weeks. 

'Create a compost bay in your garden using recycled timbers, or use a compost bin in a shady, level, well-drained position, where water can drain away and worms can get in and do their work,' explains H&G's garden expert Leigh Clapp. Regardless of the shape of your composter, the process for making compost is the same for all styles.

• Layer wood, twigs, cardboard and newspaper on the base of your composter.
• Then add in your food and garden waste (also known as green waste) alongside cardboard, twigs and straw (also known as brown waste). This will ensure that your compost has a good balance of carbon (provided by the brown) and nitrogen (provided by the green).
• Water your compost heap when it gets dry though ensure it is not soaked.
• Feed it with a nitrogen-rich feed such as blood and bone meal to help speed up the composting process.
• Turn your compost every few days, this will help to aerate it and distribute moisture.
• Ensure your composter is covered to protect it from the elements and keep rats, racoons and similar pests from making a home in your composter.

If you don't want to turn your compost learn how to use a wormery for compost –here the worms take on the hard work of turning the compost for you, resulting in ultra-fine compost that is ideal for sowing seeds.

How to make a composter in a container

Container gardening ideas aren't just for flowers: container composters are the most common method, with lots of homeowners having purchased the iconic black or green bins. However, it is surprisingly easy to learn how to make a composter from a plastic container.

1. Select a plastic container. It can be any size but 32 gallons or 55 gallons are recommended. Ensure that your container has a lockable lid. Opt for a dark colored bin for the quickest results.
2. Drill two dozen small holes into the sides and bottom of your bin (more if it is larger). This will help it to drain and prevent your compost becoming waterlogged.
3. Then simply add a layer of twigs, cardboard and straw to the base of your compost bin.
4. Add green waste followed by a layer of leaves.
5. Continue this until your bin is full.
6. Use a pitchfork to turn your compost every week or two weeks.
7. Place in a warm spot in the garden.
8. It should be ready to use within six months.

How to make a composter with wood

Wooden composters are a practical and an aesthetic choice of composter. It can easily be made from recycled wood, old scaffold boards or pallets or you can learn how to make a composter from decking or cedar boards. In fact, cedar wood is the best material for making a compost bin – though will of course be more costly than recycled wood or pallets.

Regardless of the wood you choose, it is essential to select wood that has no signs of rot. Depending on the type of wood used, you can expect your wooden composter to last between 5 and 10 years. The thicker the wood the longer it will last.

You can also extend your wooden compost bins life for a few years by treating the interior and exterior of your wood with organic hemp oil or linseed oil.

There are lots of blueprints online for how to make a composter from wood – these are available in various sizes and styles. However, the fundamentals of each method is to create a square box with a lid.

The easiest method for how to make a composter from wood is to use pallets:

1. Source four pallets of the same size (alternatively, you can cut them to size).
2. Only use pallets that have been heat treated (look for a HT stamp on the pallet). This means there's no risk of toxic chemicals from the pallet compromising your compost. Avoid any pallets with MB or SF markings as they have been treated with a pesticide or biocide respectively. For more information Universal Pallets have an in-depth guide.
3. Then position in a square formation and join together with square brackets.
4. Line the pallets with chickenwire to keep the contents inside the compost heap and line the base with plastic sheeting or bin liners.
5. Then create a lid with a solid wooden sheet and attach to the back of the composter with hinge brackets. This will keep the compost dry during rain or storms.
6. Line the base with a layer of brown waste such as twigs, leaves or cardboard and then start filling with green waste interspersed with layers of brown.
7. Turn your compost bin with a pitchfork a couple of times every week and water if it starts to look dry.
8. Within four to six months you should be able to use this compost on your garden.

How to make a compost heap

A compost heap is the easiest way to learn how to make a composter – however it is also the less aesthetically appealing and as such is better suited to large gardens where your compost heap can be hidden out of view and placed far away from your patio ideas.

'The easiest way to start is by collecting all your kitchen scraps in a container with a lid. Once you have started to collect this food waste, you can begin a compost pile on a patch of bare ground and add layers of twigs and straw. You can then alternate adding moist ingredients, such as food scraps or tea bags, with dry ingredients, like leaves or wood ashes. Once you have created a pile, add manure, which provides essential nitrogen to help kickstart the composting process. Cover it with any material, such as plastic sheeting or old bedlinen, that you have on hand to help keep it moist. You can water the heap occasionally and turn it every couple of weeks to help aerate the patch,' advise gardening experts at The Greenhouse People.

How to make a rotating compost tumbler

Rotating composters offer the quickest way to get compost – with the right conditions it can make rich compost in just three weeks. Rotating composters, also known as compost tumblers, work in a similar way to a tombola spinner with a barrel suspended on a frame.

Though it is the most efficient method for making compost, learning how to make a composter on a rotating frame is the hardest DIY method. The frame must be able to support the barrel when it is full of heavy, wet compost. You will also need expert skills and tools in order to create a successful finished project. If you do not want to complete this as a DIY project there are lots of ready made rotating composters that will work just as well.

1. Opt for a large barrel with a lockable lid – it can be any size but 32 gallons is the most common option.
2. Start by creating the frame.
3. Get two standard thickness wooden posts – these need to be as tall as your barrel to ensure that you can have a full rotation of the barrel. These posts will form the upright part of the frame.
4. Once you have these posts, drill two holes six inches from the top of the post. The holes must be the same diameter as your axel post and in the same position on each post.
5. Secure the posts by attaching each to a flat piece of wood that is the same length as your upright posts. This will create an inverted T shape to support your barrel.
6. Join the two posts together with a middle piece of wood that is 12 inches longer than the width of your barrel. This frame should be able to stand up independently.
7. Next create the composter’s drum.
8. Stand your drum on its base with the lid pointing upright and measure the barrel’s length and width to find the central point on the side of the drum. Repeat this on the opposite side of the drum. Ensure these points line up and drill holes the same diameter as your metal axel tube.
9. Then drill smaller aeration holes throughout the drum – around 24 should be sufficient.
10. Thread your metal axel tube through the large holes in the drum and then thread through the holes in the wooden frame. Ensure your barrel can fully rotate.
11. Add wall clamps or washers to either end of the tube to prevent it from coming loose. Alternatively you can bend the ends of the tube so that it cannot pass back through the holes in the frame or drum.
12. Then fill your compost bin and secure the lid.
13. Rotate your composter a few times each week.

How often should compost be turned?

You should turn your compost every three to ten days when stored in a compost heap or bin. It is easy to turn your compost, simply use a pitchfork to lift the compost from the bottom to the top and vice versa.

If you have a rotating composter, this should be turned every three to four days.

What can I put in my composter?

'Things you can put in your composter include fruit waste and veg peelings, plant, grass cuttings and even teabags. These are quick to break down, providing moisture, as well as nitrogen, which is important. Other things to include are crushed eggshells, fallen leaves and cardboard egg boxes. Avoid putting certain perennial weeds in there, like dandelions, as well as any meat or dairy products,' recommends Jack Sutcliffe, Co-Founder of Power Sheds.

How long does it take for compost to break down?

On average it takes around six months for compost to break down. However, with a rotating composter it can take as a little as three weeks with the right climate (warm weather) and balance of carbon and nitrogen.

If you are hoping to become fully self sufficient in your compost then it is worth making several composters. If you have three composters you can have one for your waste; one that is actively composting; and one that it ready to use. You can then rotate these when empty or full to ensure a constant supply.

Using a wormery for compost is an easy and environmentally-friendly way of turning much of your kitchen waste into nutrient-rich compost to feed your garden and houseplants.

A wormery doesn't take up much space at all – in fact you can even keep one under your kitchen sink – and will help your plants to thrive. If you are looking into how to make compost it is well worth adding a wormery to your plans, and do your bit to help the environment, too.

Using a wormery for compost – the benefits

If you are considering permaculture gardening then a wormery is a must.

If you already use or make organic compost from garden waste, you may wonder what is the purpose of a wormery?

The answer is simple: rather than your rotting food garbage ending up in landfill and producing harmful greenhouse gases, with worm composting it is eaten by the hungry worms and transformed into highly concentrated and long-lasting plant food. 

'Worms have been recognized for their amazing ability to turn any organic material into a valuable soil fertilizer,' explains Ronnie, founder of Wormcity.

On top of the environmental advantages, using a wormery for compost has many benefits for your garden. 'Worm compost is teeming with minerals and nutrients for healthy plant development – one tablespoon provides enough nutrients for a plant to thrive through a growing season; has excellent moisture retentive properties; contains natural disease and pest controls, and improves soil structure,' explains Anna de la Vega, founder of The Urban Worm.

The worm compost can be used on everything from the flower beds and your vegetable garden, to container plants, houseplants or as mulch.

There are also economic benefits of using a wormery for compost. 'If you consider the cost of purchased organic fertilizer for your garden, even the most expensive wormery could pay for itself in one growing season,' explain the experts at eartheasy.

What is a wormery?

A 'wormery or 'worm bin' is a box system that contains composting worms that eat kitchen waste. At its simplest, it's a bin with holes for ventilation and moisture.

'Wormeries are most commonly made up of two compartments. The upper area is where the kitchen waste is added and where the worms get to work, while the lower compartment is the collection area for the liquid that the wormery produces, explains celebrity gardener David Domoney.

The more compartments/trays your wormery has, the more efficient it can be.

'The bi-products produced consist of worm castings – worm poo, manure or vermicompost – and leachate – worm wee, or liquid fertilizer. These are excellent feeds for your indoor and outdoor plants,' explains Ronnie of Wormcity.

Creating a completely natural, organic product that supports natural garden pest control, worm composting could also be added to your wildlife garden ideas.

'Worm manure can be applied direct to plants as a soil conditioner without scorching the roots, but for best results mix at a ratio of 2:10 with regular compost. Leachate can be used as a liquid plant feed when diluted 1:10 with water,' advises Anna.

How do you start a wormery for compost?

To start a wormery for compost you can either buy a wormery, or make your own using a variety of non transparent plastic containers, or even use a wheelie bin.

David Domoney offers this guide on how to create a wormery using a large plastic box with a lid. Before getting started: 

• Drill some air holes into the bottom of the container
• Add a sheet of newspaper to the bottom, and top with an 8cm deep layer of moist compost for the worms to burrow in
• Then, add the composting worms
• Once they’ve been added, top the compost with 8-10cm of kitchen waste
• Next, cover the surface with a piece of cardboard or newspaper for insulation and water slightly to keep it damp
• Add the lid to the box to keep it waterproof
• Place the container on bricks to raise the container up and allow the air holes to function effectively

The Urban Worm also has some useful step-by-step guides to creating a DIY wormery.

There are various materials you can use for bedding for the worms. 'Damp shredded paper, compost, coconut coir, and well rotten manure are all suitable for worm starter bedding,' explains Anna. 

The experts at eartheasy also recommend leaves, straw and egg cartons.

What type of worms are used in a wormery?

There are specific types of worms used in a wormery. Do not think you can dig up all the worms wriggling around your garden for worm composting. 

'The most commonly found worm in the garden is the lobworm. Lobs are deep burrowers and will not survive in a wormery,' advises Ronnie of Wormcity.

There are two types of worm that can be used for composting in a wormery, which you can buy online or from fishing-tackle shops:

• Red tiger / red wiggler worms (Eisenia andrei/ fetida) also called the brandling worm or manure worm. 'It is either red or stripy and is usually found in manure and compost heaps,' explains Ronnie.
• Dendrobaena (Eisenia hortensis) also called the European Nighcrawler. 'Dendra is the largest composting worm and is reddish brown with stripes all over its body and a cream tip to its tail. It has a preference for damper conditions,' explains Ronnie.

Worms are sold by weight. If you collect your food waste and weigh it, you can see exactly how many worms you’ll need. 

The worms can eat half their own weight of waste each day, so 'as a rule of thumb, 200g of worms should be fed 50-100g of food per day,' explains Anna of The Urban Worm.

Also bear in mind that they can double their population every 60-90 days, so don't buy too many according to the amount of kitchen scraps you can feed them.

'We generally advise a household of four to start with 1kg of worms.  However, you need to keep an eye on the waste and do not over feed the worms,' says Anna.

What can I compost in a wormery?

You can compost many organic kitchen scraps in a wormery. 'Spoil the worms rotten by adding materials like vegetable peelings, tea bags and coffee grounds as well as small amounts of bread, weeds, and leaves,' explains David Domoney.

'It is always better to add partially decomposed kitchen waste as it is easier for the worms to eat and chopping food finely helps worms to eat it and break it down faster,' advises Anna.

There are some foods to avoid putting in your wormery, including acidic foods. 'Bear in mind that citrus fruits can increase the acidity which isn’t suitable for worms, so if they are added, ensure it’s only in small quantities,' says David.

'The greater the variety of organic wastes you use for worm composting, the better the resultant worm castings will be,' explains Ronnie.

How long does a wormery take to compost?

It will take a wormery a few months to produce compost, depending on the time of year and if it has optimum conditions.

Worms are most active in warm and moist conditions, in temperatures between 64-77ºF (18-25ºC). Their activity decreases noticeably in temperatures below 50ºF (10ºC).

'Worms to go into semi hibernation in the winter, when the temperature drops, and don’t feed or eat as much,' explains Ronnie of Wormcity.

Where do you place a wormery?

You need to place a wormery where it will enjoy the best conditions for the worms. 'Worms are very resilient, but they are most happy living in conditions between 50-85ºF (10-30ºC ),' explains Anna de la Vega of The Urban Worm.

'Keep the wormery out of direct sunlight in the summer, away from strong winds, and in the colder months keep them indoors in a shed or other outbuilding, or wrap them in bubble wrap or a blanket to keep them active. They do slow down in winter,' she adds.

'Against a north facing wall is best as it is out of direct sunlight and protected from strong winds,' says David.

Because the worms are contained, you can store a wormery on a sheltered balcony or in a courtyard, and you don't need a big bin as the compost produced is so concentrated, so they can be incorporated into sustainable ideas for small gardens.

You can even try worm composting if you don't have a garden as the worms are happy living indoors where the temperature remains milder and more constant.

How do you look after the worms?

To look after worms, 'start steady,' advises David. 

When you first get the worms for worm composting, they may be a little slow to start eating. 'Begin with small amounts of food and check to see how long it takes them to eat it. Increase the amount until you are adding the equivalent to half their weight daily,' explain the eartheasy experts.

If the kitchen waste is not being eaten, stop feeding for a few days until the worms start to work through the top layer.

'Adding a mixture of foods will ensure they have a healthy and varied diet, while providing different nutrients. When you remove the lid, if there are worms at the surface, this is a sign that you need to add some more food. Adding material once or twice a week is a good benchmark,' advises David.

Ensure you keep the conditions right for the composter, with the best temperature and position. You will need to drain off the liquid periodically to avoid waterlogging, and occasionally fork through the compost to check the health of the worms.

Will a wormery smell?

'A normal wormery for compost should smell earthy. They only tend to smell bad when too much food – more than the worms can eat – rots and becomes 'anaerobic',' explains Ronnie of Wormcity.

If this happens, stop feeding the worms and dispose of the excess or undigested food.

The wormery can also smell if it becomes too wet, so if this happens, drain off the liquid then add shredded cardboard or paper to mop up the excess.

Potted plants are a staple of many patios, balconies, and urban gardens – but you may be making a planting mistake, according to Arthur Parkinson. 

Author Arthur Parkinson learned the art of planting at Kew Gardens before mastering his technique alongside Sarah Raven. He is currently the gardener at the Emma Bridgewater pottery factory and the author behind two books, including The Flower Yard: Growing Flamboyant Flowers in Containers. Therefore, when it comes to container garden ideas, you can trust his advice. 

In an interview, the expert revealed that the success of your potted plant depends on using the right soil type. And while you may be tempted to opt solely for compost, Arthur explains that using it exclusively is a mistake. Here's what you need to do instead.

Arthur Parkinson's potted plant compost secret  

'In a pot situation, compost can become lifeless, so if you can include some real soil, it really helps to bring it together,' Arthur says. You can borrow soil from your garden; however, the expert also recommends another (unlikely) source of enrichment. 

'If you're on a walk and you see a molehill, take some molehill soil home in a bag for life and mix it in with your shop-bought compost,' he suggests.

While this garden idea may initially sound unconventional, Arthur explains that it has lots of micronutrients and organisms – all of which are perfect for keeping your plant alive. 

'It's something I started doing a few years ago after buying cheap supermarket compost,' he says. Potted plants are self-contained environments, so introducing this natural goodness is one of the best things you can do for your greenery. 

If you have moles in your own garden, it is a good idea to take as mix the molehill soil in as much compost as possible – to ensure your plants blossom for a long time to come. However, if you're picking it up whilst on your walk, fear not. A little bit goes a long way. 

Arthur Parkinson's unorthodox small garden ideas don't end there. He also urges you to experiment with seaweed fertilizer when the warmer weather arrives. However, in the meantime, we'll be packing our carrier bags for our next hike.

It's so simple to do that when you find out how to make compost you’ll soon wonder why you’ve never done it before. Making compost at home is the cheapest and easiest way to improve your soil. It will feel good too when you know you're feeding your garden with homemade goodness and everything starts blooming so abundantly.

There's more to making compost than simply throwing peelings on a heap and keeping your fingers crossed. If too much of one ingredient goes on at the same time, the mix will become uneven and your compost production will slow down. Too many grass cuttings, for example, will lead to your compost becoming a dank mass.

It's an easy process as long as you follow a few key pointers. Our expert guide to how to make compost will soon set you on the right track.

How do you make compost at home?

At home, you can start to make your own compost at any time of year but late summer to early winter is the peak time to do it.

Choose the right compost bin for the space you have available amongst your garden ideas, and put it in the best position, which is generally a spot in dappled shade.

It's key to get the right mix of ingredients when it comes to making compost at home. To avoid making a common composting mistake, think of it as following a recipe where you pull together the right things then let them marinate, 'stirring' occasionally and adding water if the mix is a little dry.

How to make compost: a step by step guide

Below, we tell you how to make compost in a simple step-by-step.

1. Choose the right compost bin

Your compost bin should have ventilation and drainage, so a traditional slatted wooden one is ideal. Contact with the ground is important too, because the soil will help to activate the composting process.

Plastic water butt tubular compost bins have an open base, a fitted plastic lid and a sliding front access hatch and are good for small gardens as they’re so compact. They can also be used for ‘continuous composting’ where you add green waste at the top and get a constant supply of compost out at the bottom.

Alternatively, check out the low-maintenance method of lazy composting, which doesn't require a bin.

2. Choose the right site to make compost

Position the compost bin away from the house but in a place where it’s still accessible from the kitchen. Stand the bin on soil so that any liquid from decomposing waste can drain away.

It's always best to place your compost heap or bin in a shady or part shady spot. Bear in mind that if you are planning a kitchen garden, it might be handy to have the compost nearby.

3. Get the compost mix right

The best way to create good compost is with a good mix of woody and green waste materials. Avoid using too much of one item. By layering up your compost heap correctly you can speed things up too.

Line the bottom with straw or old newspaper then layer up green material (grass, dead headings, fruit and vegetable peelings, coffee grounds, soft prunings) with brown waste (such as shredded cardboard and newspaper, straw, twigs, dry leaves and woody prunings cut as small as possible).

The ratio should be 25 parts brown materials to one part green materials. Ash from the BBQ is good too but it should be cold and not contain food scraps.

4. Turn the compost regularly

It's important to loosen up your compost mix regularly. Every few weeks, lift and mix the plant material with a fork to aerate it as it rots down. Without sufficient air, the compost can become compacted, slimy and rotten.

When turning the compost in autumn and winter, watch out for hibernating garden wildlife that may be sheltering there, attracted by the heap’s warmth.

For larger compost heaps you can also use a compost aerator to pump air into the mix.

Some people choose not to turn their compost but most prefer t. For more information, read our discussion on layering vs turning compost.

5. Keep compost moist

A lack of moisture will slow down or even stop the decomposition of the compost, so during very dry weather water it every now and again. Fresh vegetable and fruit peelings and fresh grass clippings are another good way of adding moisture.

If your compost becomes too wet, try adding some chopped woody material, or shredded cardboard or newspaper.

Do I need to cover my compost?

If your compost heap is bothered by flies then make sure you cover any kitchen waste with garden prunings after adding it to the heap and check that moisture levels are not too high, which could cause insufficient air in the heap.

It’s also a good idea to cover your compost heap if you're adding food waste to avoid any problems with rodents.

If it's rainy use a cover to protect your compost, or you could end up with a mixture that is too wet.

How long does it take to make compost?

It can take anywhere between several months and over a year for compost to be ready for use in your garden, depending on the temperature and materials you're using, and how well the compost is aerated.

You'll know it's ready when it has a rich, crumbly texture, and is all the same deep brown color. Compost that’s ready has a pleasant smell of damp earth. Not all the compost in your heap will mature at the same rate though, and you may end up discarding some of it, or putting it back into the container to continue rotting as you add in new layers of waste.

If you try hot composting you'll see great results in as little as four weeks. As long as you monitor the compost and record the temperature every day, plus turn the compost every four to five days you’ll be on the right track. After one month, you should have a dark, crumbly compost. Let it rest for a couple of weeks before you start using it.

What’s the fastest way to make compost?

Hot composting is the new compost trend. The latest hot composting bins let you make high-quality compost at home in weeks. You can also make your own hot compost heap if you don't want to invest in a bin. This method requires a little more time, but it's pretty straightforward too.

Or try a compost tumbler, which is a sealed drum that turns with a push, or has a handle attached. Place your composting material in the drum and turn the handle every two to three days and you'll soon have rich, crumbly compost, generally within three weeks.

For another speedy process, try wormery bins, especially if you have a small garden as they take up so little space. A starter kit includes everything you need, including the worms themselves.

Wormeries are self-contained, and you leave them to turn your kitchen waste into rich crumbly compost. In addition, they provide a concentrated liquid feed packed with nutrients, known as leachate, that you draw off using the tap supplied. The dilution rate is 1:10 (1 part leachate to 10 parts water) and, for sensitive plants, use a ratio of 1:20.

What’s the difference between hot and cold composting?

There are two main methods when it comes knowing how to make compost. Cold composting is the more commonly used method as described in our easy step by step guide above. This involves slowly adding organic matter to a compost heap and leaving it to break down in its own time.

Hot composting is all about temperature. It refers to a method that produces compost in a shorter period of time stimulated by warm temperatures in the heap.

'Hotbin composters are really good and fairly compact too,' says garden designer Tom Massey. 'They're hot aerobic composting bins that reach temperatures of 60°C, breaking down food and garden waste into compost in just 30-90 days which is much faster than a standard compost bin. They compost all garden and all kitchen waste (including cooked and raw food and leftovers) and there’s no turning or accelerators required.'

Is hot composting better? 

The main benefit of hot composting is the speed at which waste material turns into compost. A traditional composting bin can take anything from six months to two years to transform waste into compost. Hot composting can take as little as four weeks to produce compost.

However, although the process of cold composting is slower, it’s often more appealing as there’s little that needs to be done to create your compost once you've set it up.

On the flip side, many shop-bought hot composters can take a wider range of home and garden waste, including meat bones, so it's a good way to ensure all food and garden waste is put to good use.

Hot composting: a step by step guide

1. Mark out the space for your pile. It should be at least 120x120cm. Alternatively, invest in a hot compost bin to make your compost in.
2. Chop up your ingredients. An easy way to do this is to run the lawn mower over them as you need to chop everything up so that it breaks down as quickly as possible.
3. Add a couple of shovelfuls of ready-made compost that will work as an ‘activator’ to kick start the process, then mix all the ingredients in a pile or bin.
4. Add water so that all the ingredients are evenly moist.
5. Maintain the compost heap by keeping an eye on the soil temperature and moisture. The pile should heat up within 24 to 36 hours. Between 60 and 68˚C is the ideal temperature. You can check this with a compost monitor. Some of the bins come with a monitor in the lid too.
6. When the pile starts to cool it's time to turn it. This restarts the microbial activity and gets things 'cooking'.
7. If the compost is looking dry, give it some water. However, if the pile starts to smell unpleasant, it's probably because it's too wet. Adding shredded newspaper will soak up any excess moisture. If rain is due, cover the pile with a tarpaulin to stop it becoming waterlogged.
8. After about two-three weeks, you should have dark brown, crumbly compost. It's important to let it 'rest' for a further two weeks before using it.

Can I turn autumn leaves into compost? 

Add autumn leaves to the compost heap to work their magic in time for spring planting. Use the mower to shred to the right consistency then layer them up with grass clippings and kitchen compost as they take a while to break down. Cover and turn every so often with a garden fork to aerate.

There are lots of things in the garden you can use when it comes to making compost – and leaves are high up on that list. So if you’re doing some late summer tidying in the garden, it’s the perfect time to consider starting a compost heap.

How do I use my homemade compost?

There are several ways you can use your homemade compost.

It makes a brilliant soil improver on all types of beds where plants are grown including vegetables, flowers and ornamental shrubs. You can use it as a type of mulch by sprinkling it on top of the soil, or simply dig it in.

You can also gently rake compost in around the base of trees, blend it with potting soil to revitalise indoor plants, or sprinkle it on top of your lawn as a soil improver.

As homemade compost is made from recycled kitchen and garden waste, it's too strong for growing seeds or bringing on young plants. It needs to be mixed in with other materials to make potting compost.

Compost is ideal for mulching, but as it acts like a fertiliser leave space around soft stemmed plants as it could potentially scorch and damage them.

The best time to use the compost is in spring as plants will be growing more actively and benefit from the nutrients as they are released from the compost.

You can also use some of your compost to make compost tea, for an organic homemade fertilizer.

What is peat-free compost?

If you can’t make your own compost natural peat-free composts are widely available and a great alternative to peat-based products that cause environmental damage. They are a mix of organic materials like composted bark, coconut fibre (coir) and green compost, with the addition of grit, sharp sand or perlite to ensure the optimum growing medium.

There is a growing trend of boycotting bagged gardening compost made from peat in favor of peat-free alternatives. ‘If rainforests are the lungs of the world, then peat bogs are its armour – helping to create a vital balance in our atmosphere by storing over a fifth of the world’s soil carbon,’ says Marija Rompani, Director of Ethics and Sustainability at the John Lewis Partnership. ‘Peat bogs have been plundered for decades without fully understanding the consequences.’

'Intensive peat mining has adverse effects on the climate and destroys valuable ecosystems,' agrees garden designer Tom Massey. 'Many endangered species live in and around peat bogs and these are having their way of life threatened. If you want to go a step further than peat free look for an organically certified compost. This will need to comply with strict organic guidelines and will have higher environmental credentials.'

So if you're buying compost rather than making it, remember to look for approved peat-free mixes.

Monty Don is a font of gardening knowledge; he can name pretty much any plant on sight and is bursting with tips to keep your garden in bloom. In one of the latest episodes of BBC Two’s Gardener’s World Monty Don shared compost tips, but he also had a warning.

The Gardener’s World presenter revealed in a winter garden special that compost could attract rats. Composting is a brilliant way to get rid of kitchen waste and feed your garden. However, the gardening expert warned that you need to be careful what you throw on your compost heap.

‘The real secret of compost is life to soil,’ explains Monty on the show. ‘Because compost is made by the material being digested, by bacteria and fungi and nematodes and the worms and beetles and bugs, you make it work like a recipe that you know just works and works over time,' he said.

• See: Monty Don reveals his tips for feeding birds through the winter

‘So let’s look at it like a recipe,’ he continued. ‘First thing is your ingredients. You can add almost anything that’s lived to a compost heap.’

However, his compost tips come with one big exception. ‘Don’t add meat, fats or cooked material,’ he says. ‘Particularly cooked starches like potato or rice or pasta.’

‘The main reason for that is not that it won’t decompose, because it will in time, but it will so more slowly. It will attract rodents. You will get rats,’ he warned.

• See: Take a tour around Monty Don's beautiful Longmeadow garden in Herefordshire

‘Almost everything else from the garden and the house can go on,’ he assures. ‘For example, kitchen waste like eggshells and banana skins can definitely go on.’

If you don’t have the space for a compost pile or heap or are nervous about attracting wildlife, it might be worth investing in a hot composting bin. The bin does all the hard work for you a lot quicker.

Monty Don regularly shares advice and tips on BBC Two’s Gardener's World, alongside a team of expert gardeners. The show has been running since 1960, and is bursting with ways to help gardeners build up their expertise.