For many, daffodils, or Narcissi, are the ultimate spring flowering bulb. As the New Year rolls on, even despite the frosty weather, daffodils emerge with showstopping blooms that can be found in a range of yellow, orange, white and cream shades.

While daffodils are undoubtedly floral fireworks in our winter and spring gardens, companion plants are just as important. There are many different plants that complement daffodils, including evergreens and other flowering bulbs, helping to add even more impact and contrasting color to your displays.

So, if you want to fill your yard with flowers in the coming months, our expert-approved guide has all the inspiration you need. Whatever varieties of narcissi bulbs you grow, these companion plants are sure to fill your yard with joy.

Five plants that complement daffodils

If you are thinking about companion planting for daffodils, it is always important to select perennials, evergreens or flowering bulbs that prefer similar conditions. While it will depend on what you grow, most Narcissi species are cold-hardy and can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 7.

They tend to have a preference for full sun, planted in a location where they can enjoy at least six hours of sunshine, but they will tolerate part-shade too.

1. Monkey grass

'Monkey grass, or Liriope muscari, is a hardy choice for gardeners,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening. 'It is virtually pest and disease-free, and importantly, this evergreen looks good when paired with anything.

'Growing best from US hardiness zones 4 to 10, this versatile plant has dark green, grass-like blades that can play a supporting role to the golden-yellow trumpets as they emerge in spring,' Mike adds.

In terms of how to grow monkey grass, this versatile and tough evergreen can cope with many different conditions, tolerating both cold, northerly weather and warm, southerly climates. For the best results, plant in a partially shaded spot with moist but free-draining soil.

Monkey grass live starter plants are available to order from Amazon.

2. Irises

Irises are also perfect plants that complement daffodils, with showy blooms that emerge from spring through to summer. One particular variety to pair with smaller Narcissi species would be the dwarf crested iris, or Iris cristata, as seen in the image above. Iris cristata rhizomes are available to order from Amazon.

This small species often reaches no more than eight or nine inches tall, opening in shades of blue and violet which contrast brilliantly against white or yellow daffodils.

Iris cristata is one of the best native irises, best suited to growing in woodland-like situations from US hardiness zone 4 plus, with a preference for part-shade and slightly damp, rich soils.

There are many other early-flowering irises to choose from, such as these pure 'White van Vilet' iris bulbs, available from Amazon.

3. Hellebores

Hellebores are one of the quintessential flowers of winter. When all else is dormant in the yard, these popular perennials emerge with striking flowers.

Many different hellebore varieties would make ideal plants that complement daffodils. I would opt for the popular Lenten rose, Helleborus orientalis in pale shades, such as lemon-yellow, white or pale pink that will contrast nicely against your Narcissi bulbs.

In terms of how to grow hellebores, they will tolerate frosty weather down to zone 3, with a preference for part-shade and moist soil. In northerly zones, however, I would advise giving them as much sunshine as possible to help them survive frost and snow.

Hellebore live plants are available from Amazon and can be planted during the fall and winter months.

4. Primroses

Primroses are among the earliest bloomers in the garden. If you are a fan of cottage garden ideas with lawns and banks dotted with beautiful blooms, primroses might just be the plants you need to grow.

You can sow primrose seed towards the end of winter, usually around February, or alternatively, if you are planting out plugs bought from a local nursery, you can do this after the last frost in April. Primrose seeds are available from Amazon.

Primroses are cold-hardy down to zone 3, with a preference for part-shade and moisture-retentive soil. If your clumps are happy and healthy, they will quickly naturalize in your yard, pairing perfectly with daffodils when grown in a sunny meadow.

5. Forget-me-nots

If you like the sound of self-seeding flowers, a good option might be forget-me-nots, otherwise known as Myosotis. For a natural look, allow forget-me-nots to self-seed and scatter across your borders, an easy way to garden, in my opinion.

Growing well from US hardiness zone 3 plus, these flowers are often considered some of the best part-shade annuals, doing well when planted in a position with morning sun and afternoon shade.

So, if you are looking for blue flowers to complement your yellow daffodils, I do not think there would be a better option than these dainty but dazzling blooms. Forget-me-not seeds are available from Walmart.

FAQs

What shrubs look good alongside daffodils?

Forsythia is a shrub that pairs very well with daffodils. Forsythia tends to bloom very early in the year, usually around March or April, so if you are looking for an impactful early-flowering shrub to match your early-flowering daffodil blooms, forsythia might be the plant for you. In my opinion, forsythia and daffodils combined will brighten even the darkest winter day.

For more inspiration for your winter and spring garden, see our guide to bulb planting trends for the year ahead, to keep your space ahead of the curve and the talk of the street.

Bulb planting is an important job on the annual gardening calendar. Whether you have a charming cottage garden or a modern townhouse yard, bulbs can be used to great effect to elevate your space. Whatever the theme, style, or look of your yard, flowering bulbs add seasonal interest and flair, enabling you to add something new or different to your plot.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted many thousands of bulbs in public and private gardens across the UK and Italy. While some looks prove timeless, for example, almost-black 'Queen of Night' tulips planted alongside peach-red 'Menton' tulips, some combinations or varieties grow tired and lose popularity. As gardeners, we have the power to grow what we like depending on tastes and trends, and adding something new, I think, can have a transformative effect.

This year, bulb planting trends are reflecting a shift towards thoughtful combinations using bright and brilliant colors, old-fashioned varieties and perennial species, as well as wildlife-friendly options to keep pollinators happy. So, keep on top of bulb planting trends and avoid bulb planting mistakes this year. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

Bulb planting trends 2025

These are the bulb planting trends for 2025 and for good reason. Color and contrast are in vogue, as well as bee-friendly blooms and perennial species that will return year after year. So, if you have already done your homework on winter garden trends, here are some flowering bulb ideas to think over, including many unusual bulbs and miniature bulbs for the wow factor.

1. Plant bulbs that support wildlife

Wildlife garden ideas will continue to play an important role and determining factor in how we all tend to and care for our outdoor spaces. This is less of a trend and more of a permanent change, I think. One quick way to learn how to boost biodiversity is to use single-flowering bulbs, which have far easier access to nectar for pollinators such as bees and butterflies.

Many of the best varieties of narcissi bulbs are single-flowering, helping gardeners create a space that will support and feed local insects, such as Narcissus poeticus, otherwise known as the 'Pheasant's Eye' daffodil, seen in the image above.

'The 'Pheasant's Eye' daffodil is a classic single-flowering scented bulb to grow that will not disappoint,' says Vanessa Elms, bulb expert and owner of Old House Gardens, based in Ann Arbor, Michigan. 'With prolonged pure-white blooms, 'Pheasant's Eye' is one of the best bulbs for naturalizing in a lawn or borders, although this species is not tolerant of clay soils, so avoid planting in heavy soil regions.'

As with most daffodils, this species is fully hardy and can be grown even in cooler US hardiness zones 3, 4 and 5. 'Pheasant's Eye' bulbs are available to order online from Walmart.

For single-flowering bulbs for a pot, Vanessa recommends Narcissus 'Avalanche', which has a superb fragrance in spring. Another option would be Narcissus 'Minnow', which is a dwarf variety with up to five fragrant single-flowers per stem that pollinators will flock to. Narcissus 'Minnow' bulbs are available to order from Amazon.

2. Maximalism and clashing colors will add impact

Big, bold colors and maximalist schemes have made a comeback in recent years, and look set to stay for the foreseeable. If you are wondering what is maximalism, I think this aesthetic is best described as colorful, happy and joyful. Think orange, red, pink and purple, clashing colors and patterns all thrown together, without any sense of holding back.

Gardeners can embrace this trend too, pairing bright tulips, hyacinths and alliums together in showstopping, firework-like displays that are full of rich tones. As you can see in the image above, pairing bold shades together is sure to add impact to container displays. I took this photo when working in a private country garden in the UK, and long-lasting colorful tulip displays can always be relied upon.

There are many different tulip types, including fringed tulip varieties and parrot tulips, and whatever you pick will look impressive, so long as you plant them in well-draining soil in a sunny spot.

If you are anything like me and you enjoy the Venetian aesthetic, combining purples, oranges and pinks, why not learn how to create a bulb lasagna and combine many different varieties in one pot? Try planting Tulipa 'Ballerina', Tulip 'Negrita Parrot', Tulipa 'Queen of Night' and Tulipa 'Salmon Impression' all together for a warm, intense display on your terrace next spring.

'Queen of Night' tulip bulbs are available to order from Walmart and can be planted through until December.

3. True blue bulbs will create a cool, calm look

Pale blue and teal plants have gained a significant amount of attention in recent months since being named by the American Garden Media Group as the color of the year for 2025.

If you are looking for flower bed ideas and want to try something unusual, consider adding some blue flowering bulbs to add a cooling, calming atmosphere to your spring displays.

There are several varieties of blue flowers that you can grow, such as pale blue Camassia cusickii, with star-like blooms opening atop tall stems, or for a dwarf option for smaller pots, opt to grow Iris reticulata 'Alida', with blue falls complemented by a golden-yellow center.

One true-blue plant that I grew when working at the Garden Museum in Central London was the 'Valerie Finnis' grape hyacinth, or Muscari armeniacum 'Valerie Finnis', as seen in the image above that I took when completing my horticultural traineeship. This variety will grow no taller than 10 inches in height, with flowers opening in the springtime. 'Valerie Finnis' bulbs are available from Walmart.

As with all smaller or dwarf varieties and species, it is best to plant on mass, with many bulbs planted in one pot or close together in borders. Planted alone, these subtle, pale blooms will get lost when competing against other brightly colored springtime blooms.

4. Plant perennial bulbs in meadows, borders and lawns

Longevity in the garden is important. As gardeners, knowing that what you are planting is an investment that will pay off for many years to come is both satisfying and sustainable. For this reason, planting high-impact bulbs that will naturalize in lawns and borders is a good idea.

There are many perennial bulbs that can achieve this, including croci, daffodils and snowdrops. If you are planting in a lawn area, just be sure not to mow your lawn until the summer, giving the bulbs plenty of time to store energy to help them return the following year.

If you are wondering how to plant a bulb lawn and enjoy a jewel-like meadow aesthetic, try planting white snowdrops, yellow croci and purple snake's head fritillaries, all of which are prized for their ability to naturalize and return year after year.

I have grown snake's head fritillaries, Fritillaria meleagris, in several gardens where I have worked, and this species never lets me down. The image above was taken in a meadow garden in South Wales, where we grew this species alongside yellow primroses, blue camassias and white snowflakes and snowdrops. All of these species can thrive in cooler regions, including US hardiness zone 5, so long as you leave the foliage to yellow before mowing in the summer.

'Snake's head fritillaries are truly special bulbs,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening. 'Their bell-shaped purple or white blooms display a checkerboard effect, looking particularly impressive when planted in natural drifts. This shorter species can also be grown in containers, allowing you to enjoy unique species in smaller yards, patios or terraces.'

Snake's head fritillary bulbs are available from Amazon.

5. Grow species bulbs for flowers that will return year after year

Species bulbs have been gaining favor in recent years and for good reason. If you are unsure what species bulbs are, the easiest explanation is to think of these as the wild, untouched bulbs that cultivars and hybrids are bred from. I have grown many different varieties of species tulips, including the wild Tulipa sylvestris, seen in the image above.

'Species tulips are un-hybridized and, when compared to modern tulips, are small in size,' says Vanessa Elms, of Old House Gardens. 'In the right conditions, they tend to be perennial, returning year after year.

'Just like normal tulips, they like to be dry in their dormant months,' Vanessa adds, so it is best to avoid waterlogged or damp soils. 'While you can grow them in pots, I prefer growing these tulips in the ground and can recommend Tulipa clusiana, which has small but elegant open flowers, ideal for pollinators.'

So, if you are looking for some of the best spring bulbs to plant in fall, why not add some species tulips to your collection? Tulipa clusiana bulbs are available to order from Walmart.

6. Incorporate heritage cultivars for wow factor

Many gardeners are turning to heritage bulbs, which can add a splash of history to the yard. There are many different heritage bulb options, but perhaps the most popular are heritage tulips.

'To me, a heritage tulip would be a variety that was hybridized pre-1950s,' says Vanessa Elms. 'There are many varieties available, but single late-blooming tulip varieties seem to be popular with our customers.

'Heritage tulips are not complicated to grow, although in most cases, they would work better in your garden because they were hybridized for garden growing as opposed to pot culture that is more common in the industry nowadays,' Vanessa adds.

For varieties that are a little special, try planting tulips such as 'Absalon', as seen in the image above, with remarkable red and yellow flamed petals. Alternatively, try growing the 'Dom Pedro' tulip that was hybridized in 1906, opening in tones of maroon, brown and umber.

FAQs

Are there any bulbs that I should not plant in pots?

In general, bulbs are resilient and versatile, and most bulbs can be grown in borders or in containers. However, there are a handful of species that are considered bulbs to never plant in pots, including imperial fritillaries, which have a large bulb and can grow up to four feet tall. Any bulb species that has a thick, tall stem would do better when grown in the ground, where there is less of a risk that they will topple over.

What tools should I use to plant bulbs?

In terms of essential gardening tools that you might need when planting bulbs, you can use hand trowels or border spades, or even a Hori Hori knife for smaller bulbs. You can also use bulb augers, which can help to make the job a lot easier. Check out our bulb planter deals page to see some of our favorite products.

Whatever bulb trends you decide on for your yard, be aware of pests that can quickly find and eat recently planted bulbs. There are many deer-resistant spring bulbs to consider, such as daffodils or snowdrops. In addition, check out our guide on how to stop squirrels from digging up bulbs.

While it is not without reward, bulb planting can be a tough and time-consuming task. Having the right tools for the job certainly makes the process easier, speeding things up and ensuring that your bulbs are planted to the right depth.

As a former professional gardener, I have planted many thousands of bulbs over several years working in gardens across the UK and Italy. I wish I could say that I always achieved spectacular spring displays, but this has not been the case. When I was working in Tuscany, more than 1,000 tulip bulbs were planted in a wild meadow that sadly, over the fall and winter, were excavated and consumed by ravenous local istrice (porcupines).

While I am sure the same fate will not befall your spring bulbs, planting to the right depth will give your bulbs the best chance against hungry garden visitors. Here, I share some of the best deals for these essential gardening tools.

Best bulb planter deals

Using a bulb planter will make light work of your tulip, daffodil and hyacinth planting, and let's face it, any tool that helps with your fall gardening checklist can only be a good thing. I have found the best bulb planter deals - these tools will help you to plant efficiently and effectively.

Best short-handled bulb planter deals

'Short-handled bulb planters are essential tools for gardeners,' says Tenielle Jordison, news writer on the gardens team at Homes & Gardens. 'They are particularly well suited to smaller bulbs or some of the best miniature bulbs, like croci or snowdrops.

'Simply place the bulb planter atop the soil, and use your body weight to force it into the ground. Twist and lift the soil out, before placing your bulb in the hole. Many short-handled planters have an automatic soil release function, allowing you to effortlessly refill the hole.'

Short-handled bulb planters are ideal for planting these purple 'Blue Moon' crocus bulbs, available from Amazon, for a colorful and impactful display next year.

Best long-handled bulb planter deals

'Long-handled bulb planters are your best option if you are intending to plant hundreds or maybe thousands of tulip bulbs this year,' says Rachel Bull, head of gardens at Homes & Gardens.

'By using a long-handled bulb planter, you can ensure that you plant bulbs at the correct depth, which is a crucial factor for healthy growth,' Rachel adds. 'These tools also ease the pressure on your back, reducing the need to bend down when planting.'

When considering how deep to plant bulbs, while this will vary from species to species, the general rule is that you should always plant at two to three times the size of the bulb. For example, for a tulip bulb measuring 1 inch in diameter, dig a hole that is 2-3 inches deep. This can be easily done with a long-handled bulb planter.

Why not try these 'Apricot Impression' tulip bulbs, available from Amazon, for a vibrant spring display?

Best auger drill bulb planter deals

Bulb planting auger drill bits are a brilliant option when planting bulbs in fall. As a gardener, I have used these accessories when planting large quantities of bulbs in heavy soils, and they make quick work of a tough job.

There are different sizes available, and longer options are preferable if you have lots of planting to do and want to avoid bending or kneeling. While auger drill bits loosen the soil, you will have to lift the soil out yourself to position your bulb. In my experience, the trick is to dig in stages, so lifting out the soil from one hole to backfill another that has a bulb placed at the bottom.

Auger drill accessories are particularly useful for planting larger bulbs, like these bright orange Fritillaria Imperialis, available from Amazon, one of the most impactful spring blooms.

FAQs

Should I add fertilizer in the holes when bulb planting?

Adding a small sprinkling of fertilizer can be a good idea when planting bulbs. I tend to use a slow-release bone meal fertilizer, available from Amazon, that will help to promote root growth during the fall and winter. Simply combine a small amount of feed with the soil when planting.

Experts are often divided on the exact time to plant bulbs. In my experience, planting early flowering daffodils in early fall, usually around October or November, is a good idea, while planting late flowering tulips in mid-fall, typically November or December, will result in spectacular floral displays next year. Whatever bulbs you opt for, just be sure to use a tool that makes the job as pain-free as possible. For a natural, wild look, why not consider learning how to plant a bulb lawn? Our guide has all the information you need to know.

The start of fall is the time to plan and prep spring flowering bulbs, despite spring seeming a long way away. Choosing varieties to plant can help lift the spirits as summer fades; there are so many options to pick from, all full of promise for post-winter cheer.

Whether planting bulbs in patio containers, growing them in garden borders, or scattering them through a lawn, it’s essential to avoid a few common mistakes that are all too easy to make. After all, a lackluster display can feel disheartening, especially when you’ve prepared it so far in advance.

Below, you’ll find plenty of expert advice on what not to do when planting daffodils, tulips, and other early-flowering favorites. Keep these tips in mind and you’ll increase your chances of your best springtime show yet.

8 common mistakes to avoid when planting spring bulbs this fall

Whichever spring bulb varieties you’re planting this season, you won’t want to make these mistakes.

1. Planting at the wrong depth

Planting bulbs too deeply can cause them to rot or suffocate before shoots can emerge, warns gardening expert Katie Sunderlage of Holland Group. 

On the other hand, planting too shallowly means they are more exposed to potentially damaging temperature fluctuations, and it can also attract pests. What's more, it can cause daffodil blindness, which is when they produce leaves but no flowers.

‘Not all bulbs should be planted at the same depth,’ Katie says. Specific recommendations can often be found on the product packaging, or on retailer websites. ‘Larger bulbs such as daffodils and tulips generally need to be planted deeper, at six to eight inches, while smaller bulbs such as crocuses can be planted at a one- to two-inch depth.’ 

Katie recommends using a bulb planter with depth markers on the side to help plant them correctly. This bulb planter from Amazon is a well-rated pick.

Top tip: ‘If the exact planting depth is unknown, you can use the general rule to plant two to three times the vertical diameter of the bulbs being planted,’ Katie adds.

2. Growing in the wrong type of soil

The type of soil is important for successful bulb growing. Katie notes how heavy clay soil can cause them to rot and prevent root growth. Sandy or rocky soil isn’t ideal either, she adds – it can leach water through too quickly and is typically depleted of essential nutrients. 

The good news is that poor soils can be improved with a few amendments. Katie recommends adding organic matter, such as homemade compost or shredded leaves, to heavier soils to increase drainage and aeration. ‘You can also purchase gypsum or horticultural lime at many garden centers to help loosen the structure of the soil,' she adds. Organic garden lime is available from Down to Earth at Amazon.

‘If the soil is sandy, adding organic matter can also help maintain a more solid soil structure,’ she continues. Mulching can add nutrients, too.

3. Planting too late or too early

Knowing when to plant bulbs is also essential when preparing your display. 

While it may be tempting to plant all your spring bulbs as early as possible, Amy Enfield of ScottsMiracle-Gro warns against it. Firstly, it can make them more prone to rot, she says. And secondly, it can cause them to sprout prematurely, and even bloom before they are supposed to, putting them at risk of damage from cold weather. It may mean you need to protect your tulip flowers from frost, for instance.

Planting bulbs too late can also be problematic, as it doesn’t allow enough time for roots to form, she adds. ‘It can also mean they don’t receive enough cold exposure, leading to smaller or no flowers.'

Top tip: Tulips can be planted later than most bulbs to lessen the risk of tulip fire, a fungal disease.

4. Watering too little – or too much

Just like when sowing seeds, newly planted bulbs need moisture. ‘Without enough water, they may not root properly, leading to poor growth,’ warns Amy.

However, when it comes to watering plants, it can be detrimental to overdo it. Bulbs are particularly vulnerable to rotting if they’re sat in sodden soil, so take care not to kill them with kindness.

Amy recommends watering them thoroughly after planting. The soil should then be kept moist by watering when necessary. ‘For spring-flowering bulbs, this means monitoring soil moisture until the ground freezes,’ Amy adds. ‘If you have ample fall rains, additional waterings after planting may not be needed.’

Top tip: Anna Ohler, owner of Bright Lane Garden nursery, says, ‘If you live in an area with wet, heavy snowfall during the winter months, make sure you're planting your bulbs in a sunny area to help dry the soil out once the snow starts to melt in spring.’

5. Picking a location with too much shade

According to Amy, most plants that grow from bulbs prefer full sun, which means a planting spot with at least six hours of direct sun per day. If they are planted in shaded areas, they may not bloom well or at all, she warns. So, remember to check the sunlight requirements for each type of bulb and choose the planting location accordingly.

If you have a shady garden, you don't need to miss out, however. Snowdrops and crocuses can still perform well with a little less sunshine. 

6. Planting poor-quality bulbs

Be wary of planting small bulbs, even if they cost less. ‘You may be sacrificing “flower power” and plant health, resulting in a lackluster bloom or even no bloom at all,’ Amy says.

‘Always go for the biggest bulb possible,’ she advises. ‘Bigger bulbs have more stored energy which means bigger, healthier plants and a bigger flower show.’

Check your bulbs to ensure they’re plump and firm, too, rather than soft and squishy. The latter can be a sign of mold or rot. Storing tulips and other bulbs somewhere dry and well-ventilated before you plant them will help keep them healthy.

7. Planting too closely together

As well as planting depth, the spacing between bulbs is worth paying attention to, especially if you’re planting them into the ground and want them to re-flower year after year.

Bulbs planted too close together can lead to overcrowding, which may result in increased competition for nutrients and smaller blooms, says Amy. ‘Larger bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths should be spaced about six inches apart, while smaller bulbs like snowdrops and crocuses can be spaced two to three inches apart.' Again, you can check the packaging or retailer website for specific spacing guidelines for your chosen varieties.

Bulbs in pots, which are usually treated as annuals, can be planted together slightly closer than those in the ground – but not so much that they touch one another.

8. Forgetting to plant for successional color

Rather than sticking to just one or two types of spring bulbs, it’s worth planting varieties that flower at different times. This will stretch out the show, rewarding you with vibrant color for longer.

The earliest spring bloomers are usually snowdrops and crocuses. These are followed by daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips, with earlier and later types available. Varieties of alliums, a favorite plant for pollinators, tend to bloom in late spring and early summer.

If planting in pots, consider putting together a bulb lasagna, by planting earlier bulbs at the top and later flowering ones towards the bottom.

FAQs

What happens if you plant bulbs the wrong way up?

Ideally, bulbs should be planted with the pointy side facing upward. However, if you plant them on their side or upside down accidentally, don't panic – they should still grow. 

How can you improve drainage when planting spring bulbs in containers?

If you are planting bulbs in pots, there are a few things you can do to ensure the soil doesn't become waterlogged, which can damage them.

The first step is to ensure that you use a planter with drainage holes, so that excess water has somewhere to go. It's also a good idea to invest in some pot feet, available from Amazon – these will lift the container off of the ground so water can flow away more easily. 

Use a well-draining potting soil rather than regular soil dug from your yard, too – choosing the latter is a common container gardening mistake. Mixing a handful or two of horticultural grit into the medium can help improve drainage further. 

Planting bulbs is an essential fall gardening job to tick off, and the above tips will help you get beautiful results. And, if you want earlier blooms to brighten your interior, don't forget about forcing bulbs indoors, too. 

For gardeners who live in an area where deer are common, finding new ways to keep garden plants safe from damage is an ongoing task. Although cute to see and observe, it's no secret that deer who are particularly hungry find many bright flowers and foliage tempting to munch on.

The good news is that if you're trying to keep deer away from plants, there are lots of deer-resistant plants to choose from. These are plants that either deer aren't tempted to eat or plants that can handle damage from wildlife and will easily bounce back. Luckily, this means that even if there are lots of deer in your local area, you can create a thriving garden that won't suffer badly from the presence of deer.

When it comes to planning your spring garden, it's important to know which spring bulbs are deer-resistant. But look no further, as I've spoken with garden experts who have chosen their top deer-resistant bulbs.

5 deer-resistant spring bulbs

Just because a plant is labelled as 'deer-resistant' doesn't mean deer won't munch at it, as these beautiful creatures will try to eat just about anything when looking for food. Nevertheless, there are some plants that are less likely to be targeted and will bounce back quickly after being munched on. Here are five deer-resistant bulbs to plant for spring.

1. Daffodils

For many gardeners, daffodils indicate the first sign of spring, as these yellow classics come out as early as February. They can be grown across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8 and are a great option if you want to deter not only deer, but also rodents, rabbits and other wildlife that may cause damage in your yard.

'Daffodils contain a bitter alkaloid called lycorine, making them unpalatable to deer,' says horticulture and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'With over 30,000 kinds of daffodils, there is a daffodil for every garden, and by planting bulbs that flower in succession, you can enjoy the sunny flowers for months,' she adds.

You can plant daffodil bulbs in fall before the first frost of the season and watch the yellow blooms come out early in the spring season. It's also key to deadhead daffodils once the flowers have become spent and cut daffodils back once the green stems have turned yellow so that they can make a strong return in the following spring.

Explore different daffodil bulbs at Nature Hills.

2. Hyacinths

An excellent choice for those wanting to create impressive spring planters, hyacinths are bell-shaped flowers that come in a wide range of colors, from white, to deep purple, pink and blue.

'Hyacinths produce calcium oxalate, which is toxic at high concentrations for deer,' explains Peggy. 'Hyacinths also have a strong smell that deters deer. That said, hyacinths still manage to produce a delightful perfume for people,' she adds.

It you're keen to create a fragrant garden, try planting hyacinth bulbs to enjoy their soft and floral smell. You can also grow hyacinth bulbs in containers, making them good plants to make your patio smell nice.

Hyacinths can be grown in US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and bulbs should be planted in fall. If you want to enjoy them through winter, you can even grow them indoors as one of the best bulbs for Christmas flowering.

Find hyacinth bulbs at Nature Hills to grow at home.

3. Snowdrops

Another early-spring flowerer, and one that often pops up right at the end of the winter season, snowdrops are a classic that have been long-loved by gardeners. There are so many types of snowdrops to grow, each with unique flower shapes and patterns.

'Snowdrops also contain a bitter alkaloid called lycorine, which makes them unpalatable to deer,' says Peggy. 'A true harbinger of spring, snowdrops are one of the first precious flowers to bloom each spring,' she adds.

You can plant snowdrop bulbs in fall and winter, or you can plant snowdrops 'in the green' to encourage bumper blooms - a process of planting bulbs after they have flowered but still with green foliage in mid-to-late-spring.

Snowdrops are hardy across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 7 and are unlikely to be damaged by wandering deer in your yard.

Shop for snowdrops online to plant in fall, like these snowdrop bulbs from Amazon.

4. Glory of the snow

If you look forward to seeing the first spring blooms poke out from the snow, glory of the snow is a must for your spring garden. These star-shaped, blue-purple blooms get their name from the fact that they emerge between March and April when snow is still present in some places.

'Don't let their diminutive size fool you; these low-growing bulbs are powerhouses in deer-resistant design,' says Ben McInerney, a landscape gardener. 'I've employed glory of the snow to create what I call 'protective carpets' beneath deciduous trees and shrubs. In a woodland garden restoration project, we used these bulbs to establish a dense ground cover that not only deterred deer but also suppressed weed growth and provided early spring color,' he adds.

These charming blooms are not appealing to deer and tend to be left alone by them. They're also a good spring flower for part-shade and will grow well as ground cover beneath trees, as Ben notes.

Grow glory of the snow across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 with these glory of the snow bulbs from Amazon.

5. Crown imperial

Among one of the best spring bulbs to plant in fall is crown imperial. This is a type of fritillaria flower that has striking yellow and orange bell-shaped blooms growing on a long stem with tufting foliage.

'With their imposing stature and strong odor, crown imperials are the commanding generals in the deer-resistant army. I've used these striking plants to establish 'deer-free zones' within larger landscapes,' says Ben. 'In a public park project, we created focal points with crown imperials, surrounded by more delicate plantings. The result was a series of protected garden rooms that remained untouched by deer throughout the season,' he adds.

These flowers give off a musky smell that keeps not only deer away, but also repels rodents and other small animals. As Ben mentions, it can be effective to create a resistant border with crown imperial plants - plus, they put on an impressive display when planted en masse.

You can grow crown imperial across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8 and can find crown imperial bulbs on Amazon.

FAQs

How can I make my yard deer-resistant?

To create an effective deer-resistant backyard, you need to take on board a number of strategies. This means not only opting for deer-resistant bulbs, but also other types of plants and even using things like fencing to keep deer out.

'I've developed a layered approach that combines bulbs with deer-resistant shrubs, trees, and perennials to create a year-round defense system. This strategy not only protects the garden but also creates a dynamic, ever-changing landscape that is a delight to see,' says Ben McInerney, a landscape gardener.

'Deer-resistant bulbs have been a wonderful way for gardeners to enjoy spring bulbs without worry,' says horticulture and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. Ensuring you have a mix of these deer-resistant bulbs will strengthen the resilience of your yard and allow it to bounce back from any damage caused by deer.

The added bonus is that many of these bulbs are also mouse-repellent plants and squirrel-repellent plants, so will further protect your spring garden from wildlife damage.

It can be a joy to see different wildlife enjoying your yard, from pollinators to nocturnal garden wildlife. However, sometimes you will want to control which areas wildlife make use of so that they do not damage or disturb certain plants.

Mice are one of those garden critters that are cute to see but can cause damage by feeding on foliage, fruit, bulbs and more. But like snake repellent plants and fly repellent plants, you can make careful choices in your planting to naturally deter mice from particular areas in your yard. 'Mice try to avoid the environments where repellent plants are present because the scent of these plants prevents them from searching for food efficiently and detecting predators,' says Nicole Carpenter pest control expert and President of Black Pest Prevention.

Experts have shared the best mouse repellent plants to steer them away from your yard and ensure your plants don't become damaged by these curious rodents.

7 mouse repellent plants

There's no doubt that mice can be sweet to see but you might consider mouse repellent plants if you find they are damaging your plants. Experts share the best mouse repellent plants to naturally deter them from your yard.

1. Mint

One of the most effective mouse repellent plants is mint. There are plenty of mint varieties to choose from, some with stronger aromas than others.

'Mint, specifically peppermint, contains menthol, which mice find very unpleasant,' says Nicole. 'Plant peppermint around the perimeter of your property for higher effectiveness. By planting mint strategically, you create an anti-mice fence that protects your home and outdoor area from mice infestation,' she adds.

You can grow mint in many different ways, such as growing mint indoors and transplanting it or growing it straight outdoors as part of a kitchen garden. Make sure to prune mint plants to both harvest it and encourage further growth.

Find mint plants online, like these sweet mint plants from Walmart.

2. Rosemary

Along the same lines, rosemary is another aromatic herb to grow in your yard to deter mice. Growing rosemary is easy and rosemary deters mosquitoes as well as mice.

'Rosemary emits compounds that disrupt the olfactory system of mice, making it difficult for them to search for food and detect predators. This sensory confusion can deter them from entering an area,' says Nicole.

You can use rosemary in your yard in a range of ways, all of which are effective in naturally repelling mice.

'You can plant rosemary around your garden, use rosemary infused sprays or sprinkle dried rosemary,' says Rocky Beninato, pest control expert and founder at Quality Affordable Pest Control. 'Sometimes dried rosemary may be more potent, but would likely lose it's intense aroma once it rains,' he adds.

Make sure to prune rosemary during spring and summer to boost and encourage bushier growth.

This plant grows best in US hardiness zone 8 and zone 9 and can be bought from many nurseries, supermarkets and retailers, like these rosemary plants from Walmart.

3. Lavender

If you're looking for flowering plants that repel mice, consider growing lavender for a fragrant garden.

'Lavender follows the same logic as rosemary and mint, as it also has a strong smell,' says Rocky. 'Some people find lavender to be a more desirable scent than mint or rosemary, so it is often used indoors as well as an extra measure of protection against mice infestations,' he adds.

You can harvest lavender to dry it and keep it in your home, or grow lavender in pots to move it around. Planting it around the borders of your yard or in designated areas will help keep mice out of your planting.

Lavender is perennial and will grow back each year, just make sure to prune lavender after flowering to encourage returning blooms. It tends to thrive best in US hardiness zone 5 to zone 10.

Find the right lavender plant for your yard online, like this Grosso Lavender from Nature Hills.

4. Marigolds

It's no secret that gardeners grow marigolds to deter pests, and often you will find marigolds in vegetable gardens to protect crops.

'Marigolds contain pyrethrum, a compound used in many insect repellents,' says Nicole. 'Plant marigolds around your garden and home perimeter to deter mice and other rodents and insects,' she suggests.

These flowers are versatile and many will grow marigolds in pots for flexible moving and placing in different positions as needed. They thrive in a sunny spot and will grow well in US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11.

You can find marigold seeds to plant online, like these marigold seeds from Amazon.

5. Daffodils

For perennial flowering bulbs that will come back each year to deter mice, opt for planting daffodil bulbs.

'Daffodils, with their bright blooms, are not only visually appealing but also act as a deterrent against mice,' says pest control expert and entomologist David Price. 'The bulbs of daffodils contain alkaloids that are toxic to mice, thus providing a natural form of pest control when planted in gardens,' he adds.

You can brighten up a mouse repellent border by adding daffodils. Make sure to deadhead daffodils when their blooms start to fade and you'll be rewarded with returning blooms next spring.

'Daffodils can be harmful to pets, so avoid planting them in areas where pets can easily access them,' notes Nicole.

Daffodils grow best in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8 and can be bought from many suppliers, like this double daffodil blend from Nature Hills.

6. Catnip

You can keep mice away from your yard by planting something that will make your pet cat happy - catnip, or Nepeta cataria. This purple plant will naturally deter mice from your yard, while providing pops of color to your planting.

'Catnip, while attracting cats, effectively repels rodents due to nepetalactone, the essential oil it produces,' says David.

It's also possible to use a catnip oil to spray around plants you would like to deter mice from.

'By using catnip, you kill two birds with one stone: in addition to repelling mice with a pungent smell of nepetalactone, you attract predators such as cats, which keep mice away and reduce their population,' says Nicole.

Catnip will thrive in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9 and can be bought from a range of suppliers, like these catnip plants from Walmart.

7. Sage

If you're looking to expand your herb garden with even more fragrant plants that will keep mice away, consider growing sage.

'Sage contains volatile oils such as camphor and thujone, which are natural repellents,' says Nicole. 'Plant sage in garden beds or along borders where mice and other pests are likely to enter,' she adds.

Sage is versatile and can be grown in raised beds, as well we being a herb you can grow indoors and then transplant outside.

It does best in US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10 in a full sun position. Make sure to provide plenty of drainage for growth to be successful.

Shop for sage plants online, like this sage plant from Nature Hills.

FAQs

How do I mouse-proof my yard?

As well as planting mouse repellent plants in your yard to naturally deter these rodents, you can do a few things to mouse-proof your yard. Try keeping your backyard tidy to reduce the number of places for mice to nest. This includes cutting back overgrown plants. You should also try to keep waste bins secure so that mice don't make their way in to settle.

Mice can be a nuisance in your backyard if they feed on your fruit and foliage. It's best to incorporate mouse repellent plants in your garden if you want to naturally deter them.

If you want to find out about alternative ways to support wildlife in your yard, you might enjoy our feature on inspiring wildlife garden ideas.

Daffodils are heralded as one of the main stars of spring and their cheery blooms are much-welcomed after a long winter. While many gardeners simply leave their daffodils to do their thing, you can boost your daffodils by fertilizing them each year. 

Feeding can help daffodils to put on the most spectacular blooms possible each spring. These spring bulbs can also be given the best start to life if you add fertilizer as part of planting your daffodil bulbs. 

Whether your daffodils are growing in the ground or as part of spring pot displays, feeding them can dramatically improve your display - so add this quick and simple job to your spring gardening to-do list.

How and when to fertilize daffodils 

There are lots of different species of daffodils and many thousands of varieties of narcissi bulbs to choose from - and all will benefit from being fertilized. We look in-depth at when and how you should feed bulbs to get the best display of blooms year after year.

Why should you fertilize daffodils?

Daffodils store energy in their bulbs over the season and use all that stowed-away energy to put on their fantastic show the next spring. They continue to photosynthesize and absorb sunlight even after they have finished flowering - which is why it is important to not cut back daffodils until the leaves have died back naturally. 

If the spring bulbs are going to grow in their spot year after year, they can benefit from additional fertilizer being added to the soil. 

Thomas Rutter, gardens content editor at H&G, says ‘flowering does tend to improve when fertilizer is used’. He adds: ‘This is particularly true for daffodils in pots or nutrient-competitive areas, such as under large trees or shrubs.’

Make sure to put fertilizing daffodils, and other popular spring bulbs such as alliums and tulips, on your to-do list as it will help the plants build strong roots and have all they need ready for another spectacular blooming season.

When to fertilize daffodil bulbs

The ideal time to feed daffodils will vary depending on whether they are established clumps in your garden or new additions to your backyard ideas.

When to fertilize established daffodils 

Mature daffodils benefit from being fertilized early in the year, before their blooming period begins. Feeding at this time gives them a boost of nutrients right when preparing to put on a big show of blooms.

‘When I worked as a professional gardener, an important job on the spring gardening checklist was to feed daffodils as new growth began to emerge, typically from late winter through to early spring, ‘ says Thomas.

‘While new bulbs planted in the fall tend to flower just fine, older bulbs can benefit from some help, and annual feeding at this time will greatly improve your spring flower show.’

As well as fertilizing when new growth emerges, the American Daffodil Society also recommends top-dressing daffodils while flowering with a high-potassium feed. If you are growing daffodils in pots, a regular feed every two weeks with a similar product, such as a tomato feed, can encourage continued flowering.

When to fertilize new daffodil bulbs 

When you plant daffodil bulbs in the fall, it is advisable to add a slow-release balanced granular fertilizer. However, take care to mix the fertilizer into the soil and avoid it touching the bulb itself. Using a fertilizer such as bone meal, available at Burpee, or a specially formulated bulb fertilizer, when planting spring bulbs will help get them off to a strong start.

Daffodils planted in fall do not need extra feeding in the spring, as you would do with established bulbs. 

Kiersten Rankel, garden expert and botanist for the plant app Greg, recommends waiting until they have done a first flowering cycle before fertilizing. 

She advises: ‘Let them focus on getting settled in their new home and putting out a good show. After the flowers fade, you can give them a gentle dose of fertilizer to help them store up energy for next spring's blooms.'

How to fertilize daffodil bulbs

The best fertilizer for daffodils in early spring is a balanced, slow-release product that comes in granular form. Kiersten recommends: ‘Look for something with equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (like a 10-10-10 mix). This provides a steady nutrient supply without overwhelming their delicate bulbs. Organic bulb fertilizers with bone meal or fish emulsion are great options too.’

The fertilizer should be gently scratched into the soil surface and then watered to get the nutrients down to the roots. This can be done via rainfall, or by hand if there is no rain forecast for the days after applying the feed. When you do spread the fertilizer, be careful to avoid getting any on the foliage. 

After spreading the feed and watering, adding a layer of mulch around the plants can also benefit the daffodils as moisture will be retained in the soil and weeds will be suppressed from competing for nutrients. 

The American Daffodil Society advises to ‘top-dress with 0-10-10 or 0-0-50’ fertilizer as the daffodils flower and to avoid applying any high-nitrogen fertilizer, as this will promote the development of foliage rather than blooms.

A fertilizer high in potassium, such as muriate of potash, available at Amazon, can also help to encourage flowering in daffodils in pots. Start feeding the plants once you see shoots appearing in spring and continue to fertilize the pots every two weeks, until they have finished flowering. 

Then remember to leave the green foliage so the daffodils can continue to photosynthesize and produce energy to store in the bulb for the following spring.

FAQs

Is Miracle Gro good for daffodils? 

There are Miracle Gro products that are suited for fertilizing daffodils. This includes the all-purpose plant food, available at Amazon, that can be applied in the spring to provide a nutrient boost to the daffodils just before they put on a display.

Is tomato feed good for daffodils? 

A feed for growing tomatoes can be applied to daffodils growing in pots every one or two weeks once they start flowering. Such a feed is high in potassium and will encourage fantastic flowering.

What do you feed blind daffodils? 

Daffodil blindness is when the plants produce foliage, but no flowers. One of the reasons for blind daffodils can be a lack of stored energy in the bulb. If your daffodils do not produce blooms, continue to feed them with a liquid feed until the foliage dies back to help increase the energy stored in the bulb for next spring. Further boosting the nutrition in the soil by adding organic matter or a balanced fertilizer in the spring can help avoid the issue.  

Deadheading daffodils is recommended as it is a quick and simple task that can prevent the plant from wasting energy forming seedheads. That energy can be put to better use by being stored in the bulb ready to be used for flowering next spring. 

For more information, see our guide on plants that complement daffodils, to ensure your borders are full of color come spring.

Learning how to deadhead daffodils and narcissus when they start to fade after flowering is one of the gardener's most important late spring gardening jobs.

These early spring beauties are some of our most treasured plants, their glorious golden trumpets heralding the return of the sunny days of spring. We need to take care of them to make sure they flower well year after year.

After all, getting the most from your blooms doesn't end with knowing how to plant daffodil bulbs. I've grown many different varieties of narcissi my entire gardening life, and I have learnt over the years that they need care and attention even after they have finished flowering to help encourage blooms in subsequent years.

Why and how to deadhead daffodils

Deadheading daffodils removes the spent flowers to make plants look tidier and also to stop them forming seedheads, which wastes the plants’ precious energy. This energy needs to be fed back down to the bulb by the leaves and stems to help it grow and mature.

If seedheads are left on the stems to ripen, the plants may weaken and the bulbs will not grow and mature to provide bigger, better displays each year.

How to deadhead daffodils in spring

How you treat your daffodils after flowering will influence how well they perform the following year, so it’s important to get it right.

A vital job is removing the dying flower heads. Knowing how to deadhead daffodils may sound simple, but it is so important as it helps the bulbs to mature and flower well in subsequent springs. 

Follow these simple tips for success:

• There is no need to remove the whole stem at its base as it has a value to the plant as it dies back naturally.
• Just pinch off the dead flower and the top inch or so of stalk, leaving the rest to photosynthesise and feed the rest of the plant as it dies back.
• Deadheading daffodils stops the plants wasting energy by making seed heads instead of returning it to the bulbs to prepare them for next year’s blooms.

When to deadhead daffodils

Gardeners should deadhead daffodils once the flowers fade, lose their color and start to go brown and crinkly. The same approach applies to other spring bulbs, for example, it is important to deadhead tulips to prevent energy from going into seed production. For tulips and daffodils, remove the dead flower, the little seedpod underneath and around an inch of stem.

Feeding daffodils after deadheading

You can help the process of daffodils returning energy to the bulbs by continuing to nourish the plants as they fade. Fertilize daffodils either with a fortnightly watering with liquid tomato fertilizer such as Espoma organic feed from Walmart, or an application of a general granular feed such as Jobe's Organics all-purpose fertilizer from Walmart, when you do your deadheading. This will also help the bulbs to bulk up and mature.

Leave the foliage alone to die back naturally, a process that takes around six weeks. After this point you may want to cut back daffodils in your borders, but definitely not before. Plants may look untidy as they wither away, but you can disguise them by planting evergreen perennials and later-flowering bulbs around them. 

FAQs

What should I do with daffodil bulbs that haven't produced flowers?

If any daffodil bulbs have come up ‘blind’ and failed to flower,carefully dig them up to check they have not been attacked by pests or disease. You can do this at the same time as you are deadheading your other daffodils. 

Discard any that appear diseased or pest-ridden as well as any that feel soft or smell bad. Replant the healthy remaining ones at three times their own depth, ideally somewhere sunny in enriched soil. Let them die back naturally, feeding them as they do. 

If you've experienced similar problems after learning how and when to plant tulip bulbs, you can follow the same method as above for any tulip bulbs that fail to flower. 

Should I tidy up the dying foliage on my daffodils?

In a word, no. When learning how to deadhead daffodils, the leaves should be left alone because the plant needs them to die back naturally to return energy to the bulb. 

If you cut off the leaves after flowering, or even tie them in knots to make clumps look tidier in your flower bed, it stops the foliage refuelling the bulbs and you may not get as many flowers in your borders or spring container ideas next year.

Understanding how to deadhead daffodils is an essential part of your spring gardening checklist. If you want to get the most out of your flower beds, whether to keep them flowering for longer or to ensure wonderful displays next year, deadheading is a good practice to get into - especially when it comes to deadheading irises and roses. 

Narcissus are true heralds of spring. A glimpse of their cheery yellow trumpets is enough to raise our spirits but there’s a vast array of flower types to choose from. 

Blooming proudly from early February to the end of May, there are over 26,000 cultivars on offer, each with their own charm and characteristics.

Available in every shade from bold, sunshine yellow to the palest cream and apricot, plus endless forms with single or multi-stemmed blooms, it’s hard to resist topping up your daffodil bulb collection each fall.

We've curated eight of the best varieties to brighten up your plot.

Most popular types of narcissi explained

With hundreds of varieties on offer, narcissus can bring a touch of cheer to every part of the yard. From naturalizing under trees, shrubs and in the lawn to filling pots and window boxes with glimmers of gold, these springtime beauties come in every shape and size. 

There are also numerous varieties with quirky flowers that may not instantly bear a resemblance to those classic trumpet-shaped blooms, but that doesn’t mean that they’re not worth growing. 

Showcased in a prize container, nestled within a rock garden or proudly displayed on a tabletop, they all have their own distinct beauty.

Small cupped narcissi

Some of the most enchanting blooms belong to the small-cupped Narcissus. Flowering in mid spring, they have some of the more unusual and bi-coloured cultivars – often featuring pale almond-white petals surrounding a strongly-colored central cup. 

With a single flower on a straight stem, around 14-16 inches (30-35cm) tall, these are brilliant garden all-rounders adding a cheery splash of color to pots, the front of borders, lawns, under deciduous trees and shrubs.

With so many varied color combinations to choose from, it's well worth opting for a mix of new introductions along with tried and trusted old favorites. 

Popular since being introduced in 1945, Narcissus ‘Barrett Browning’ has been highly coveted. Its bold, slightly frilled, orange-scarlet cup shines out against the pure white petals and will grace pots, borders and lawns with its striking looks every March to April.

Narcissus tazetta

Instantly recognisable for their small multiple blooms on a single stem plus their deliciously sweet fragrance, tazetta narcissus include some of the most popular  varieties. With wide open flowers and a shallow cup, they have something of a delicate appearance but that doesn’t mean that they should be confined to pots and indoor displays.

Narcissus tazetta naturalize easily and work well in rock gardens. Some of our favorite Narcissus tazetta varieties are Narcissus ‘Geranium’, Narcissus ‘Grand Soleil d’Or’, Narcissus ‘Minnow’ and Narcissus ‘Ziva’ or paperwhites.”

Hardy in US zones 5-9 they tend to favor climates with wet winter months but dry, hot summers. Depending on the variety they can have anywhere from 3-20 blooms on a single stem and make great cut flowers.

Narcissus triandrus

Also known as 'angel tears' daffodils, these miniature blooms have a distinct and elegant beauty. 

'The outer petals tend to sweep back from the cup that angle downward creating a really unique feature,' says bulb expert Katie Sunderlage. 'These types tend to also be very fragrant making them perfect for a cut flower bouquet.'

Producing 2-3 small flowers per stalk in mid to late spring, they are perfect for planting in rock gardens, under deciduous trees and shrubs and in larger beds, allowing them to naturalize. 

'These are one of my favorite types because of their unique bloom and delicate features,' says Katie. 'Since they have more delicate flowers, we do recommend planting them in groups of six or more to create a more full, bouquet effect in the garden.'

Varieties to look out for include Narcissus ‘Ice Wings’, Narcissus ‘Silver Chimes’ and Narcissus ‘Hawera’, but bulb expert Megan Foster says: 'One of our favorites, Thalia falls into this division with its classic crisp white nodding flower heads with little wings flying out back behind the cup – a darling bloom.'

Narcissus Bulbocodium

This plants alternative name – hooped petticoat daffodil – aptly describes its unusual shape. With an exaggerated flared trumpet backed by shorter spur-like petals, it’s a real head-turner and deserves to be grown more widely.

A dwarf bulb reaching to just 3 inches (15cm), it looks stunning planted in large numbers either in a wildflower meadow, sweeping through borders or in clustered scree areas as part of a rock garden. Flowering from March to April, they are happiest planted in partial shade or full sun.

There are a few cultivars to choose from with colors ranging from pure white, vanilla through to sunshine yellow. 'We love Golden Bells – with its charming little conical cups - and use it in some of our stinzenplanten collections for planting into your lawn,' says Megan Foster.

Cyclamen-flowered daffodil

Native to Spain and Portugal, these miniature daffodils are a real mixed bunch. With reflexed petals and an elongated trumpet – often in a contrasting color – they will bring some drama to the spring garden.

One star of the cyclamineus group is Narcissus ‘Tete-a-Tete’. 

'It has been around since before the 1950s and won many awards,' says horticultural and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. 'It’s very early blooming and flowers for an extended period with bright recurving petals. Just 6-8” (15-20cm) tall means they won’t topple over from spring storms and wind.'

Ideal for underplanting deciduous shrubs and roses, they will brighten up the dullest of corners. A prolific and vigorous bulb, they will happily spread year after year, but like most, they do detest sitting in wet soil.

Split corona daffodils

Surely the divas of the spring garden, these showy blooms are mesmerizing. Officially classified as split corona daffodils, these are also called butterfly, orchid, or hibiscus daffodils. 

'I don’t plant these for my pollinator friends; I plant these beauties for my own delight,' says Peggy Anne. 'The large, frilly blossoms come in many different colors: every shade of yellow to nearly white, orange, and pink. I dare you to pick just one variety. They are perennial, and while they may not multiply as quickly as the miniatures, they bulk up fairly quickly.'

Great for filling pots and raised borders, they really pay to be raised up and viewed at a height so you can admire the infinite and complex ruffles.

Narcissus poeticus

Known as 'the poet's daffodil', this is a very select group of heirloom narcissus. With flat open petals and a central short contrasting cup they have a beguiling beauty and rather wild look. 

Two named blooms Actaea and Old Pheasant’s Eye are particularly popular and have an important backstory. 

Peggy Anne Montgomery explains: 'I love the history of these flowers as much as the delicate blooms. Carl Linnaeus described this daffodil in 1753. It was one of the first daffodils to be cultivated and is often called the daffodil of ancient times. It is also associated with the Greek legend of Narcissus.'

Fragrant and with a single bloom on top of a tall, straight stem they are perfect for cutting, planting amongst long grass meadow-style and bringing color to woodland areas. They also cope more successfully than other bulbs with wet, slow to drain areas.

FAQs

Which narcissus are the best for planting in a lawn?

The bulbs that tend to be the happiest planted in a lawn are simple, robust and on the short side. This helps them withstand the frequently exposed conditions and also ensures that they stand out amongst - and not above - the longer blades of grass.

‘Drift planting is desirable in almost every situation,’ explains horticultural and bulb expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. ‘It mimics nature, and the repetition is soothing to the eye. Bulbs always look better when planted en masse. The flowers can be small, so it takes quite a few of the small ones to show up.’

Popular choices for naturalizing include: Narcissus 'Jetfire'; Narcissus 'Toto'; Narcissus 'Hawera' ; Narcissus bulbocodium; Narcissus Poeticus Actaea.

If you are inspired to plant more narcissus and spring flowering bulbs in your yard, we have plenty of handy guides to get you started. Find out 10 of the best bulbs you can grow and how to plant them.

Q: I planted lots of spring bulbs in borders and pots last fall, including daffodils and tulips. I am looking forward to them blooming, but recently heard that they are poisonous for pets. I have a dog, so I’m a bit concerned – what precautions do I need to take?

A: With their glorious colors and promise of warmer days ahead, it’s no surprise that spring bulbs are loved by many – myself included. However, as pretty as they may be, bulbs are poisonous plants for dogs and cats. This means measures must be taken to keep pets safe, whether you’ve planted your bulbs in your backyard or are forcing them indoors for an early display.

The dangers of spring bulbs

All spring bulbs can be a health risk for four-legged friends. Commonly grown examples include crocuses, daffodils, tulips, bluebells, hyacinths, irises, and snowdrops. 

All parts of the plants contain toxins, but these are concentrated in the bulbs, says Dr. Ray Spragley of Zen Dog Veterinary Care. Dr. Sabrina Kong, a senior veterinary contributor at WeLoveDoodles, says, 'Pets are naturally curious, or sometimes just plain bored, and they might dig up and chew on these bulbs.' The consequences can be serious. 

‘Spring bulbs may cause gastrointestinal discomfort, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, and ulceration of a pet’s mouth,’ Ray warns. ‘Daffodils are especially toxic because they can cause central nervous system depression, low blood pressure, and seizures,’ he adds.

In severe cases, poisoning from spring bulbs can lead to breathing and heart problems, and can even be fatal. 'If you ever think your pet has eaten something toxic, get them to the vet right away,' says Sabrina. 'Quick action can make a huge difference.'

Top tip: Lilies are super toxic, especially to cats, warns Sabrina. 'Even a little bit can cause kidney failure.'

Keeping your pets safe

'It’s important to be proactive to ensure your pet’s safety,' says Rebecca Sears, a gardening expert from Ferry-Morse. She advises keeping pets away from areas where spring bulbs are planted by installing barriers, such as dog-proof fencing. 

'To create a truly safe environment for your pets, consider planting more pet-friendly options instead of bulbs,' Rebecca adds. For instance, camellias, nasturtiums, rosemary, snapdragons, and roses are considered non-toxic to cats and dogs – and all are just as beautiful (albeit some flowering a little later).

Bulbs planted indoors, such as hyacinths or amaryllis, should be kept well out of reach of animals, too. Indoor cyclamen are also a danger if ingested. And don't forget about bulbs in backyard storage – Ray highlights how these should also be kept securely away from your pets.

FAQs

Are spring bulbs toxic to humans?

Yes, bulbs are toxic to humans as well as pets, and shouldn’t be ingested. Keep them away from children.

Some bulbs, such as hyacinths, can also irritate the skin when touched, so wear gloves when planting them. These patterned gardening gloves from Terrain are both pretty and practical.  

Are spring flowers in a vase dangerous to pets?

Bunches of daffodils and tulips are lovely ways to brighten our home, but it’s important to remember that all parts of spring bulbs are poisonous to pets. Keep your cats and dogs away from them, and don’t let them drink the water from the vase.

As well as being mindful of the potential dangers in your spring garden, there are other tips to take on board for a cat- and dog-friendly backyard. 

Following organic gardening practices (free from toxic fertilizers and pesticides) and installing backyard fences to prevent access to busy roads are two other ways to help keep your furry companions safe. 

No spring yard is complete without these cheery blooms, but with thousands of cultivars to choose from, deciding on the best varieties of narcissi bulbs to plant can be baffling. Do not fear though, simply follow our list - which includes many standout flowers recommended by bulb experts and garden designers - and you can get planting, knowing the results will be gloriously uplifting.

For many, narcissi or daffodils are the first true sign of spring. Best planted as dry bulbs in the fall, they share their sunny charm in various flower shapes, colors and sizes – after all they are amongst the best miniature bulbs you can grow. Flowering collectively from late January through to May, with just a little careful planning it’s possible to enjoy their colorful display for months on end.

It's not just their dazzling looks that make these flowers so popular, but their easy-going nature and versatility, too. Naturalize tall, airy species in a bulb lawn for a relaxed, semi wild look, or weave clumps through borders for intense color. You could also group together in pots and planters for maximum impact.

10 best varieties of narcissi bulbs to plant now

You can liven up your springtime yard by planting glorious narcissi right now. There are endless varieties to tempt you, in uplifting hues from palest lemon through to sprightly orange. Delicate white narcissi have a firm following, and there are many to choose from including 'Thalia' and 'Mount Hood'. Many of these blooms also have a delicious fragrance, adding to their charm and value as a cut flower. 

1 Narcissi Tête-à-Tête

• Height: 8 inches
• Flowering: March/April

With up to three punchy, star-like blooms bursting from each bud, this dwarf narcissus is always a welcome. No wonder it is one of the most popular varieties available. An heirloom variety dating from 1949, they are lightly scented and will effortlessly come back year after year.

‘This tiny wonder will be the first daffodil to bloom in spring, even if there is snow,’ says horticultural expert Peggy Anne Montgomery. ‘The pure yellow flowers are quite long lasting and like all narcissus or daffodils, they are amazingly easy to grow. The only thing they won't tolerate - like most flower bulbs - is wet soil. They are truly perennial and multiply year after year. ‘

Show them off in window boxes - perhaps paired with variegated English ivy and blue grape hyacinths - and use them as low-level planting in pots either side of the front entrance for a cheery welcome. Plant the bulbs 6 inches deep and divide established clumps every few years for healthy blooms.

You can start your collection with this selection of tête-à-tête bulbs from Amazon.

2 Narcissi King Alfred

• Height: 16 inches
• Flowering: March/April

Picture a springtime scene of nodding daffodils and it will be likely you are thinking of this classic variety. ‘Known for their reliability and sturdy stems, this classic daffodil variety is one of the most popular and widely recognized,’ says landscape designer, Ward Dilmore. ‘It features large, bright yellow blooms with a prominent orange-yellow trumpet-shaped center.’

Easy to get hold of, be sure to plant plenty and you will be rewarded in spring with an ample number of blooms to admire both outside and in, after all they make perfect cut flowers. These large headed flowers look particularly impressive when planted in generous drifts or naturalized in the lawn. They are also a great go-to when looking for spring planter ideas.

As with most flower bulbs, these beauties do not enjoy having wet feet, so always grow in well-drained soil and plant at a depth of around 4 inches. 

3 Narcissi Jetfire

• Height: 8 inches
• Flowering: March/April

At home in a sunny or partially shady spot, this tiny jewel of a narcissi makes an impact that belies its size. 

‘Jetfire is a miniature daffodil with bright yellow petals and a vivid orange-red trumpet,’ says Ward Dilmore. ‘Its vibrant color combination and early blooming make it a cheerful addition to the garden.’

Another feature that makes this variety so eye-catching is the swept back corona of golden petals. Giving this spring gem a carefree and informal personality, this variety is perfect for gravel and rock gardens. Happy growing in a partly shaded spot, use these short-stemmed narcissi for bringing a spot of color under deciduous trees, shrubs and roses. They also make a delicate and intriguing cut flower.

4 Narcissi Mount Hood

• Height: 6 inches
• Flowering: February/March

Big, bold and above all stylish – it’s no surprise that this heirloom variety is multi award-winning. Reliably flowering it’s heart out in early spring, it needs little encouragement or attention to return year after year. 

Horticultural expert Peggy Anne Montgomery explains: ‘For decades, Mount Hood has reigned supreme among the white daffodils.’ It is a favorite of bulb growers, florists and garden designers for its long lasting, sizeable flowers and straight, sturdy stems. It is one of the most adaptable narcissus thriving in lawns, borders, pots and for forcing under glass, and the ideal candidate when planning a cut flower garden.

What’s more Mount Hood shares the same outstanding disease resistance other varieties enjoy. Peggy Anne continues: ‘All narcissi have outstanding disease resistance and are rarely or never bothered by pests or diseases. They are naturally deer, rabbit, squirrel, and vole resistant too.’

5 Narcissi Paper White

• Height: 14 inches
• Flowering: January/February

Different to most daffodils, this highly perfumed narcissus bears several tiny flowers on each stem, so when grouped together just a few bulbs can produce a mass of spectacular blooms. With long white petals surrounding a precisely detailed tiny trumpet with golden centre, the impression is of elegant simplicity making this variety ideal for those who prefer a serene, classic look rather than a yard that’s blazing with color. 

Often producing masses of long, strappy green foliage, these bulbs make a head turning spectacle in any bed or container. Not known for being particularly long lived outside, these very early flowering daffodils are brilliant for forcing indoors for Christmas. 

Fill decorative urns and bowls with these bulbs, top with moss and leave somewhere cool and dark until new shoots appear, before bringing them back into the light. They also make thoughtful gifts, filling a room with their sweet, musky scent.

6 Narcissi Pheasant’s Eye

• Height: 14 inches
• Flowering: April/May

Known as the 'Poet’s Narcissi', this one of the oldest varieties around and famed not just for its distinctive open white flower and multi-ringed centre but for its exquisite fragrance. Cultivated in southern Europe for use in the perfume industry, the scent is a mix of hyacinth and jasmine, making it a memorable feature of any springtime yard. 

Plant and bulb expert Megan Foster explains: ‘The wild and timeless (ancient, actually) Poet's Narcissi is beloved for extra-large blooms which produce a powerful fragrance known for attracting pollinators. White petals, punctuated by a small red-rimmed, yellow cup with green eyes make it a memorable cut flower too.’

When planting bulbs in fall be sure to include groups of these under deciduous trees and shrubs. Plant at a depth that is three times the height of the bulb in well-drained soil. 

Packs of 12 pheasant’s eye bulbs are available to order from Nature Hills. 

7 Narcissi Inca

• Height: 12 inches
• Flowering: February/March

An early flowering narcissus, originally hybridized in the US in 1979, this is a great bulb choice if you are looking for a daffodil that is a little different. ‘One of our favorite dwarf varieties is the Inca daffodil,’ says Jon Studer of Holland Bulb Farms. ‘It only reaches up to 12in tall but the unique bloom makes this a really interesting daffodil variety, featuring a white and green trumpet with pale yellow petals.’ 

He adds: ‘That this is one of the varieties that can tolerate warmer climates, hardy up to zone 9.’ 

Early to bloom, this chic and dainty flower is a valuable source of nectar, making it hugely popular with hungry bees and garden pollinators. Be sure to incorporate a few bulbs into your yard when planning wildlife garden ideas, perhaps nestling them in amongst a log pile, stumpery or under deciduous woodland.

8 Narcissi Jonquil

• Height: 8-12 inches
• Flowering: February/March

With their cheery blooms and delicious scent, this heirloom variety is hugely popular in both borders, pots and for carpeting lawns and light woodland. 

‘Jonquils are universally adored for their pure, sweet fragrance, often reminiscent of bubblegum, says bulb expert Chris Wiesinger. ‘These golden blooms grace late February and early March, brightening late winter gardens when little else flourishes. These perennials effortlessly naturalize, carpeting vast areas with their charm.’

Blooming earlier than most other garden flowers, these open narcissus with short trumpets are a magnet for bees and butterflies, eagerly hunting for nectar which is in scarce supply so early in the year. Choose to grow them as part of a garden for pollinators and not only will you boost your yard’s green credentials but naturally help protect other susceptible plants from pest problems.

Chris continues: ‘Versatile in both gardens and as cut flowers or container decorations, they're known affectionately as jonquil sweeties. This name aptly captures their fragrance, form, adaptability, and the joy they bring to our lives and gardens.’

9 Narcissi Delnashaugh

• Height: 18 inches
• Flowering: April/May

A narcissus with all the blowsy charm of a peony or old-fashioned rose. These bi-coloured double beauties are a dream for filling spring pots and planters close to the house with delicate colour and fragrance. Happy grown in full sun or part shade they make a big impact planted in clumps or meandering through a mixed border.

‘I really love Delnashaugh double daffodil – it's just exquisite,’ says Megan Foster. ‘A very soft, gentle double with alternating layers where the sharp cream white contrasts with the gently ombre peach double inner petals. The overall effect is a very charming balance.’ 

The full flower heads are well supported on sturdy, straight stems making them ideal for cutting and gracing a vase. Do be sure to leave them in cold water overnight, before adding to a container as the sticky sap can affect other cut flowers and foliage.

10 Narcissi Campernelle

• Height: 12-14 inches
• Flowering: Late February/Early March

An heirloom daffodil widely found across Texas and southeastern US, this is a sweetly scented variety with elegant long petals that have a slight twist. A cross between the classic 'Lent Lily' and cheery 'Jonquil', they bring a bright flash of gold to the dreariest of early spring yards. 

‘Gardeners cherish the Campernelle daffodil for its exquisite fragrance and radiant golden blooms. Clusters of small, dark yellow trumpets resemble a vein of gold, enriching the late February landscape,’ says Chris Wiesinger. 

‘These low-maintenance beauties thrive with just sunlight and naturally fading foliage in spring. Remarkably, they resist pests, even deterring deer, donkeys, horses, and pocket gophers,’ he adds.

FAQs

Could there be anything better than heralding springtime with vast carpets of narcissus? If these varieties have inspired you to get bulb ordering, why not have a look at the best varieties of allium bulbs to plant right now too. 

For many, the first week of spring offers the opportunity to enjoy seasonal flowers in the garden (and around the home) – and the royal family is no different. 

The family offered a look inside the most famous royal residence of all – Buckingham Palace – dressed for the new season with magnolias and camellias and the flower synonymous with spring: daffodils. 

'Spring has sprung in the Buckingham Palace garden,' the family says. The photo carousel below shows five of the many flowers on the expansive London grounds, aptly beginning with the March birth flower.

3 flowers seen in Buckingham Palace' spring garden

Unsurprisingly, the royal spring garden has acquired a host of attention from fans worldwide –  but what does it include? These are the three most notable flowers you can bring into your backyard this season. 

1. Daffodils

The first flower is also the most associated with spring – but it's also the national flower of Wales, meaning it likely has a special meaning for the former Prince of Wales. It was also loved by the late Queen, who had a daffodil created for her in 2012 (the Narcissus Diamond Jubilee, among other specially-bred varieties). 

While you won’t be able to get your hands on these special varieties, there are others, such as the Tazetta daffodils and the fragrant Pheasant’s Eye daffodils, that are easy to find far beyond Buckingham Palace's gates. We also love these daffodil bulbs from Amazon for their bountiful, colorful, and long-lasting qualities. 

'Bulbous flowers are a great addition to any garden as they make gorgeous bouquets to enjoy inside or brighten up a yard when most other plants are still awakening,' says the garden-planning experts at Screen With Envy. The experts add that daffodils are also beautiful indoor flowering plants – adding that miniature varieties are ideal for growing inside.

2. Magnolias

As seen in the second image, magnolias are widely grown ornamental trees that are at their most impactful in spring or early summer. If you're looking to replicate the royal garden, the RHS recommends planting in a sheltered spot in the sun or in light shade. 'Some need acidic conditions, but many are happy in any fertile, moist, well-drained soil,' they say.

Larger species, much the like seen in Buckingham Palace, needs ample space, but if you're working with a small garden, you can grow more compact magnolias in containers. 

3. Camellias 

If a look inside the Palace has inspired you to grow camellias, you may be pleased to hear that the process is refreshingly easy. 

Growing up to 39ft (12m) and 26ft (8m) wide (with the right care), these royal family-approved blooms are suitable for both flower beds or containers (once again, a good idea if you're working with a more compact garden). Evergreen foliage means they are great for screening and maintaining privacy (which we imagine makes them a favorite among the family).

This spring is the first since Queen Elizabeth II's passing in September 2022, and consequently, the king's coronation on May 6th, 2023. On the theme of springtime (and summer flowers), Buckingham Palace also unveiled the official Coronation emblem for King Charles III and the Queen consort, which honors the couple's dedication to the environment – and all four corners of the United Kingdom. 

The new emblem includes the rose of England, the thistle of Scotland, the daffodil of Wales (fittingly), and the shamrock of Northern Ireland. It also features the flowers of St. Edward’s Crown, which the king will wear during the ceremony (Merco Press reports). 

Magnolia empire owner and HGTV designer Joanna Gaines is famed for her interior design flare –however, a recent look around her yard in Waco, TX, suggests she's a guru in the garden, too. 

'When we got back from our snow vacation, everything had bloomed in the garden. Crew could not contain his excitement about all our new flower friends,' Joanna says, alongside footage of her son exploring the spring garden (below). 

Joanna's expansive garden features hundreds of tulips, ranunculus, anemones, and perhaps the most famous spring flower of all: the daffodil. Naturally, Joanna's choice of plants is admired by those in the know – but they're not the only feature worth replicating.

'As with her interiors, Joanna has struck a balance between functionality and approachable elegance in her North-Central Texas ranch garden,' says horticulturist and botanical designer Nathan Heinrich. 'Joanna has reinterpreted the French and English-style kitchen gardens into her own signature modern-American version, and the result is both sophisticated and simple.'

Alongside her flowers, Nathan notes Joanna's use of geometric symmetry – seen through the clean lines of Joanna's raised bed garden ideas and her pea gravel walkway that offer the 'formality of an English garden without high-maintenance hedges and topiaries'.

'The white plank horse-fencing and green turf planted with flowering trees are an excellent backdrop to the gravel paths and weathered wooden raised beds bursting with spring color,' he adds. 

And Joanna, who is surely all too aware of the color-blocking interior design trend, has taken this aesthetic outside – ensuring each bed is almost as manicured as a room in a home.

'Notice how each flower bed is planted in a single variety and color of bulb or perennial,' he says. 'Rather than mixing everything for a confusing confetti look, the sold bands of color are able to be more fully appreciated.'

How to recreate Joanna Gaines' spring garden

We can't all experiment with a yard as expansive as Joanna's, but many of us have space for some spring bulbs – even when working with a more compact urban setting. But which of her flowers should we begin with? 

'While we can see a few slightly higher-maintenance elements in Joanna's garden, such as espaliered apples and tulips (which have to be planted in the fall and dug up after they start to die back after flowering in early summer) – most of her garden is packed full of fairly low maintenance perennials. They re-flower year after year,' Nathan says. 

'Daffodils are the perfect bulb to plant in nearly every growing zone – you plant once and enjoy them for a lifetime. They 'naturalize' very well, meaning once established, they multiply and come back stronger and happier each following year.'

Additionally, Nathan recommends planting anemones that – once established – will reflower every spring (as long as you mulch for frost protection in freezing climates).

'Keep them well-watered and fertilized for the best springtime flowers. Also, keep your pets with adventurous appetites away from anemones, as they are quite toxic if ingested.' 

Joanna's ranunculus is also worth replicating; however, the expert warns that you may need to step up your slug control methods, as they are a favorite for the garden pest. 

Beyond the garden, you can learn more from Joanna in her book (below), where she shares tips on the subject for which she is best known: interior design. 

Whether you like vivid combinations or a big bold hit of one particular shade, choosing what to plant up for your spring window box ideas certainly gives you the opportunity to get creative with color, shape and texture. 

A good starting point is to choose a mix of spring bulbs and long-flowering plant varieties like pansies, violas and primroses. Try combining them with small evergreens for structure as well as trailing plants to soften the edges. Layer up the look as you go for long-lasting spring garden ideas that will give your window boxes the edge.

You'll definitely want some flowers that bloom early in the season, as well as plants that take you into summer. Whatever you end up choosing they'll need to be suited to the spot you have in mind. With the right combination of plants, your window box planters will look beautiful and stay vibrant right through the spring months.

Get creative with these spring window box ideas

Take your pick from our selection of spring window box ideas from the experts to give your front yard a fast seasonal makeover. Choose the best spring flowering plants to dress up your windows and say a big hello to warmer weather.

1. Pick a classic spring window box mix

'My go-to spring window box is a combination of tulips, pansies, and daffodils,' says Nikki Thomas, co-founder of Backyardville. 'This gives you an arrangement of vibrantly colored flowers that really catch the attention. The bold mix of shades and shapes also makes the window box look fuller and more abundant for a quintessential springtime look that truly invites spring into the home.'

Tom Monson, owner of Monson Lawn and Landscape, agrees with Nikki's choice. 'I also love to start with a combination of the best spring bulbs, especially early blooming ones such as tulips and daffodils, together with pansies as they provide a stunning show of color and texture.'

When flowering is finished, Tom suggests adding foliage plants and fillers such as boxwood, ivy, and creeping phlox to keep the planters looking lush and vibrant as the season progresses.

2. Focus on one plant variety

Pansies are a flower for all seasons but none more so than spring, with their vibrant color and cheerful good looks helping to wave goodbye to winter. If you want to choose a long-lasting plant then go for pansies as they'll look good right through spring and into summer. They look fabulous massed together for a showy color pop. Find out how to deadhead pansies so you know what to do if you see a faded flower.

'As we move deeper into the season, a combination of pansies in complementary hues will add a lovely pop of color to your window boxes,' says Brad Smith, creative director and co-founder at OmniHomeIdeas. 'These cool-weather annuals can withstand light frost as well as continue to bloom until the heat of summer sets in.'

3. Go for gold with vibrant spring daffodils

'Daffodils are the premier spring flowers,' says Jenny Rose Carey, author of The Ultimate Flower Gardener's Guide, available at Amazon, and former senior director at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society's Meadowbrook Farm. 'These easy-to-grow bulbs have a wide variety of forms and differing fragrances. By choosing cultivars that bloom in early, mid, and late spring, you can have flowers out for weeks on end.'

Narcissus varieties (remember daffodils and narcissus are the same family) such as 'Tête-à-Tête' and 'Golden Bells' are both perfect for spring planter ideas. They are daintier varieties that are small yet perfectly formed and flower a little later in the season in April and May. This means they are a great choice to avoid any color gaps that might occur between spring and summer.

4. Layer up your window box plants

Build up the look of your spring window box with a simple 'thrill, fill and spill' hack to create a professional looking window box. Choose an eye-catching plant with some height such as a small evergreen to be the showpiece ‘thriller’. Then use ‘filler’ plants to add depth to your display. Finally weave in a tumble of trailing foliage as the ‘spiller’ to scramble over the edges and soften the look.

'Use a mix of orange and yellow flowers with some greenery,' suggests Cam Dowski, an interior designer and founder of We Buy Houses Chicago. 'I like to use pansies or primulas, then fill in with some trailing greenery such as asparagus fern or creeping thyme.'

Stunning primulas come in a range of colors and varieties and are a surefire way to perk up your spring window boxes. 'Their rainbow shades of yellow, pink, orange and red add a vivid color burst to the spring garden,' says Tom Monson. 'Grow them individually or mixed in with other flowers for a window box that will last months.'

5. Choose an easy option

This is one of my favorite spring window box ideas and it's so easy to do. You simply choose a selection of plants that can be slotted into a window box scheme in their own pots then easily replaced once they have finished flowering. No potting compost necessary!

Make this even easier by picking a color theme and sticking with it so everything co-ordinates if one plant finishes flowering before another. Always have a backbone for permanent structure like a small ornamental grass or evergreen shrub. It's also a good idea to choose scented flowers like hyacinths for window boxes so you can appreciate the fragrance when you throw open the windows in spring.

This idea will take you from season to season with just a quick refresh every now and then to keep your window box in top shape.

6. Pick one bold color for instant spring impact

Spring window boxes are all about using rich colors to celebrate the season. Choosing masses of blooms in one bold color is an easy way to add standout. And what can be nicer than pink in all its various shades? These salmon pink tulips in a tone that adds both warmth and brightness make a beautiful window box display.

'Pink flowers lend softness or vibrancy, depending on their intensity,' says Jenny Rose Cary. 'Vivid pinks can play a role similar to red as a lively, stimulating accent. Pinks can lead towards coral on the warm side, or they can have a slight blue undertone that makes them read as cool colors.' 

One of our favorite pink tulips that works well in window boxes and other containers is 'Pink Impression', available from Amazon. Blooming from mid-spring, it will definitely make an impression in your window box.

7. Create an elegant combination of plants

Sometimes it's lovely to add an unexpected touch to your spring window box ideas. The furry silver catkins of pussy willow are always one of the first signs of spring. As well as being cut and preserved for using in Easter wreath ideas they can also be planted outside. Adding a few stems or a small plant to a window box is a great idea to keep them compact, then they can be transferred to the garden once your spring display is finished.

What should you plant with them? 'For a burst of color, I recommend pairing them with miniature yellow daffodils, deep purple pansies and variegated ivy,' says plant expert Diana Cox of The Gardening Talk. 'This combination is perfect for early spring when the daffodils are in bloom and the pansies add a pop of color that complements the yellow. The variegated ivy serves as a filler that drapes over the sides of the planter, giving it a lush look.'

8. Design a window box for spring through to summer

How pretty is this? A heavenly mix of soft white ranunculus and pure white Sweet Alyssum paired with purple pansies, pink poppies and mauve Erysimum (also known as a wallflower) covers that moment when spring flowers start to fade yet summer isn't quite here yet. See it as one of the best 'inbetween' spring window box ideas.

With its tiny flowers, Sweet Alyssum grows well in spring container gardening ideas, filling any gaps quickly and is available in pink and purple as well as white. It contrasts beautifully with the ruffled spendor of ranunculus, which grow fairly quickly in late spring to early summer. Another good container plant, Erysimum are low maintenance and don't need much water, also blooming in spring and summer.

When thinking about planting a spring window box, remember your garden is very much a reflection of yourself, and should mirror your own tastes and preferences. If you think a clashing mix-and-match approach is best then go for it, and if you prefer a soft pastel scheme that's fine too. When preparing a garden for spring just be sure to allow plenty of time for the creative stuff.

The best spring planter ideas say goodbye to winter and herald the start of the growing season. Whether it's a large planter of tulips or a small pot of crocus on the garden table, it doesn't have to be complicated to add impact to your yard.

If you forgot to plant bulbs in the fall, it's not a problem as you can pick up instant spring blooms at the garden store now. In many ways, it's easier to do this as you don't have to visualize your design because the plants are right in front of you to play around with.

Here, we share seven spring planter ideas that will give your yard a spring garden makeover. Just make sure you position your planters where you can see them for maximum enjoyment in your yard.

Add some seasonal cheer with these spring planter ideas

As the days get longer, the temperatures begin to rise and the snow melts away, it’s time to start thinking about your container gardening ideas for spring. For most of us, it's the first real opportunity to get out in the yard for some proper gardening time.

'What better way to spruce up your outdoor space than with a planter full of lush blooms and foliage,' says Lina Cowley of Trimmedroots. 'Whether you’re a gardening novice or a seasoned green thumb, there are plenty of options to choose from for spring container planting.'

1. Create a painterly display for spring

This is one of the spring container ideas we love most as it keeps on giving. The idea is to layer up different spring bulbs or plants to keep the color coming for up to a couple of months. Often labeled a 'bulb lasagne', you want to mix different larger bulbs of complementary colors, such as yellow tulips and daffodils, with smaller bulbs, like blue muscari, that do not need to be planted very deeply.

The first to emerge are pretty blue scilla and dwarf narcissus bulbs. These are followed by scented hyacinths, then once spring fully arrives, we are plunged into the delights of tulip season. Pale cream and pink displays work well, but so too do maximalist orange and reds.

2. Opt for heavenly hyacinths

While hyacinths are great mixers in spring containers they're not afraid to star as the solo act either. Spring isn't the same without their scent, so if you're planting hyacinth bulbs in a seasonal container, be sure to position them where you can most enjoy the fragrance, near the patio or alongside the garden path. Hyacinth bulbs are available from Amazon.

'Hyacinths are excellent spring bulbs to include in a container for their delicious wafting fragrance,' says plant expert Jenny Rose Carey, former professor in Horticulture and Landscape Architecture at Temple University, Philadelphia.

'Colors range from the traditional light blue, powder pink and white to bright pink, purple, coral and lilac. Their bell-shaped individual flowers are densely arranged up their stems in a column. Try fancy double flowers for a full look.'

3. Go for double daffodils

Daffodils are one of the ubiquitous blooms of spring, with an incredible range of colors and shapes to choose from. I'm a big fan of planting daffodil bulbs like the long-lasting double-flowered varieties of 'Yellow Cheerfulness' and 'Double Pam' as I love their frilly, clustered petals.

They are an excellent choice for a spring planter as you can also keep the daffodil show going for months, plus many varieties are sweetly fragrant too.

'With careful cultivar choice, you can have a series of narcissus in flower from early through to late spring,' says Jenny Rose Cary.

4. Combine bold colors in one container

If you like the more-is-more look, opt for bold colors for your spring planters. Use bright and brilliant spring flowering plants of one color or complementary shades to create an eye-catching look. Deep pink and yellow is a standout color combination, as seen here, planted in alternating blocks like this design for a flamboyant aesthetic.

If you love tulips as I do, look out for a mix of early, mid-season and late varieties to layer into planters and you will get blooms for months. If you choose a co-ordinating color scheme it doesn't matter if some pop up before others have finished blooming as they will all look lovely together.

5. Keep it simple with tiny treasures

Crocuses push up through the soil early in the year and are often the first spring flowers we see. They really help lift the winter blues if you plant them up in pots on windowsills or other spots close to the house.

The delicate cup-shaped blooms look best potted up on their own so they don't get dwarfed by bigger bulbs. Rich yellow crocus like these from Amazon pair well with the warm tones of terracotta pots.

Adding a layer of moss creates a mini-woodland effect and helps the soil retain moisture too, one of many tips on how to plant crocus bulbs to make an impact.

6. Use a mix of spring thrillers and spillers

It's good to follow the thriller, filler and spiller format for a spring planter to get a professional-looking result. All this means is that you add height with some taller plants, fill in the heart of the planter with some medium-sized species so there are no gaps, and soften the edges with trailing plants.

This planter idea features narcissus flowers of two heights to cover the thriller and filler categories, as well as some ivy and pretty blue periwinkle to tick the spiller box.

Periwinkle plants are available from Amazon.

7. Choose one color for your spring display

Sometimes, less is more. Stick with one color and use it throughout your space. While this approach is slightly restrictive, when done well it looks incredibly sleek and modern.

Take this muscari, or grape hyacinths as they are also known. These dense flowering blue beauties can really hold their own as the star of the show. Use big and small pots, and grow them at different heights in different parts of the yard.

One of my favorites is the light powder blue cultivar 'Valerie Finnis', as sold on Amazon . This variety also has a subtle and delightful fragrance, so make sure you place one pot atop the garden table.

FAQs

What are the best native plants for a spring planter?

There are lots of native perennials that would work well in spring planters. Try growing the wild Columbine, or Aquilegia canadensis, which has contrasting red and yellow flowers and would make a colorful addition. In addition, wild geraniums, or Geranium maculatum, have delicate pale pink blooms and attractive green foliage. While typically grown in woodland beds, these could elevate container displays.

Whatever spring planter ideas you decide on, always remember to water your containers. Deep watering once per week is important, particularly as the temperature rises. Sticking to a watering schedule will keep your pots looking lush, green and healthy, and will also prolong flowering.

For more planting inspiration, see our guide to fragrant bulbs, to add a sensory element to your yard this year.

The best miniature bulbs are those that appear early and help us get through the short days of a cold and soggy winter. Nothing quite raises the spirits like the emergence of the first bulbs, and there are dwarf spring bulbs that fit in anywhere, whatever size your yard

Although fall is the traditional time for spring bulb planting, if you miss the window there’s two reasons for thinking about dwarf bulbs in late winter and even early spring, too. First, more and more spring bulbs are sold in pots, in bud or in flower, at your local garden center. Slip them into window boxes, mixed containers, as specimens in containers large and small, and then when the flowers fade, plant the bulbs out in the yard. Fertilize and water them well and then as the buds open next spring you'll thank your good sense in buying them this year.

You can also plant miniature spring bulbs directly into flower beds and borders during winter and early spring and, because the buds will already be showing color, or the flowers may even be open, they add instant color. 

15 miniature bulbs with instant appeal

Even if you're not currently thinking about planting bulbs in your garden, if you see a miniature variety in flower that you really like, make a note and keep a record for 'traditional' bulb ordering time in late summer and the fall.

Here are some of my favorites:

1. Alliums (ornamental onions)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4 
• Height: 6-15in

Most dwarf alliums are late spring bloomers with clusters of starry flowers on short vertical stems. ‘Jeannine’ is bright yellow, with two flower stems per bulb, Allium christophii is like an exploding, metallic blue firework.

They will grow best in a sunny and well-drained situation, preferably one that dries out in the summer. They work well when planting alongside blue-grey leaved euphorbias such as Euphorbia mysinites.

2. Anemone (wood anemone)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4 
• Height: 6-12in 

Sold in bud or in flower in spring, these pretty carpeters are one of the best woodland plants for shady areas and mingle well with other spring flowers. ‘Blue Eyes’ is a blue-eyed white double, ‘Virescens’ is a lacy double green. 

They will grow best in good, but well-drained, soil in light or partial shade. If you're looking for good planting partners, wood anemones will work their way around bergenias, hellebores, and hostas and mingle with primroses and corydalis.

3. Hardy cyclamen

• Hardiness: USDA Z4 
• Height: 3-6in 

Dainty, but tough, spring-flowering Cyclamen coum has pink, white or bicolored backswept flowers set against neat, rounded, silver, green or patterned foliage. It spreads steadily by seed.

Happy in sun and also one of the best plants for partial shade, cyclamen like humus-rich, but well drained soil, and will also grow in planters.

Plant it alongside other small plants in the spring tapestry including crocuses, wood anemones, and primroses, plus heucheras and smaller hellebores varieties.

4. Eranthis (Winter aconite)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4 
• Height: 3-4in

In winter, golden cups of Eranthis hyemalis, each backed by a green ruff, look up at you from short, vertical stems. These miniature bulbs will spread steadily when happy and, along with snowdrops, reminds us that the seasons have turned. 

Happiest in partial shade and rich, well-drained soil that is not parched in summer. Winter aconites look their best when planted around clumps of snowdrops.

5. Galanthus (Snowdrop)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4 
• Height: 4-8in

Pendulous white flowers dance in the breeze and once planted, they will spread over the years until your yard has a pretty springtime carpet of white. 

There are lots of different types of snowdrops to grow, with different shapes and markings. Start with ‘Atkinsii’ (early and fragrant), and ‘Flore Pleno’ (double-flowers). Buy in flower in pots, or by mail order in winter and spring. They prefer partial shade in rich, fertile soil and are happy in dry summer situations.

When planting snowdrops, combine with bergenias, hellebores, year-round heucheras plus early bulbs such as winter aconites for a pretty scheme. 

6. Ipheion (Spring starflower)

• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 4-8in

Starry six-petalled, sweetly scented flowers can almost hide the slender, fresh green, slightly oniony foliage. Look for ‘Rolf Fiedler’ (blue) and ‘Alberto Castillo’ (white).

These dwarf bulbs will do best in rich, moist, well-drained soil in full sun or in pots. It develops a colorful dome of flowers.

It will work well when planted in front of peonies, with medium height daffodils or as a specimen in pots.

7. Dwarf irises

• Hardiness: USDA Z5
• Height: 3-6in

Dwarf irises come in an increasing range of pretty colors and color combinations. Try ‘Katherine Hodgkin’ (greeny yellow and pale blue) and ‘Pauline’ (purple and white). 

Plant deeply in full sun and well-drained, neutral or slightly limy soil types. Also looks delightful in pots. It's also very pretty flowering through a gravel mulch, as part of a gravel garden or as the top layer of a bulb lasagne pot. 

8. Muscari (Grape hyacinth)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4-5
• Height: 4-8in

Small, bell-shaped, usually blue flowers open from the bottom of crowded, pointed spikes. Try ‘Ocean Magic’ (two-tone blue) and ‘Jenny Robinson’ (pale blue).

Best in full sun in well-drained but fertile soil. When the clumps become crowded, lift, divide plants and replant the bulbs after the leaves have died down.

Good planting partners include dwarf wallflowers, violas and double daises. It will also work well in a wide range of container gardening ideas.

9. Chionodoxa (Glory of the snow)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 4-8in

Short stems carry flared, upward facing, white-eyed, pale blue flowers in early spring, showing their bright coloring off well. Chionodoxa luciliae is blue-and-white, C. sardensis is pure blue. Sometimes labelled Scilla.

Suitable for any good, well-drained soil in partial shade or naturalized in grass. You can plant them both in clumps and scattered singly for a natural look, and they will usually spread steadily.

These miniature bulbs work well with many other spring bulbs including crocus and dwarf daffodils. 

10. Puschkinia (Russian snowdrop)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 4-6in

Similar to Chionodoxa and Scilla, Puschkinia scilloides var. Libanotica carries clusters of up to a dozen flaring, bell-shaped, ice blue flowers each with a slender dark blue stripe in every petal.

Plant these miniature bulbs in clumps, in sun or part shade, in well-drained soil. They will usually soon spread. Naturalized crocus bulbs, dark blue scilla, primroses, and double flowered celandines all make ideal planting partners. 

11. Scilla (Squill)

• Hardiness: USDA Z2 
• Height: 4-8in

Nodding, often dark blue, bell-shaped to star-shaped flowers dance just above the dark green foliage. Look for the robust, deep blue ‘Spring Beauty’ and the pretty pink, but slow growing, ‘Rosea’.

Happy in most well-drained fertile soils in sun or partial shade. If you're planting bulbs in pots, these are a pretty option to include in your mix, plus they are very winter hardy. 

Ideal when planted alongside spring cyclamen, crocuses and dwarf daffodils.

12. Crocus

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 4-6in

Easy and well known, choose the dainty and delicately coloured ‘Blue Pearl’ (delicate blue) for pots or ‘Whitewell Purple’ (reddish purple), shown, to naturalize. The goblet shaped flowers flare in sunshine.

Crocus grow best in sun or partial shade in fertile but well-drained soil, plus they will also grow well in pots. Feed in late fall. 

Hellebores, bergenias and other evergreen spring perennials, plus other dwarf spring bulbs such as cyclamen, will make effective planting partners. 

13. Hyacinthus (Hyacinth)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 8-12in 

Bold cylindrical heads are packed with flared, super-scented flowers to create a dramatic and fragrant display. Comes in a very wide range of colors, including some double flowered varieties.

If you force bulbs for indoor scent in winter, they can be planted out when they finish flowering for early color in the yard. They may not flower brilliantly in their first year, but their performance will improve as the bulbs mature.

Best grown in containers or in patio gardens. Sun or partial shade suits them, and do not allow containers to become waterlogged. Ideal when planted with pansies or violas around them.

14. Narcissus (Dwarf daffodils)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 6-12in

Reliable and often spreading steadily, there are many dwarf daffodils so pick the colors you like. 

Try ‘Tête-à-tête’ (two-tone yellow, up to three flowers per stem), shown, and ‘Dove Wings’ (creamy yellow and pale lemon).  

These plants are fairly adaptable but will do best in sun or partial shade, and in fertile well-drained soil that does not dry out in spring. They are ideal grown between hostas, naturalized in grass and in containers.

15. Tulipa (Dwarf tulips)

• Hardiness: USDA Z4
• Height: 6-12in

Listed under Greigii and Kauffmanniana tulips, many feature bold brownish-purple leaf markings. Try ‘Red Riding Hood’ (very early, scarlet flowers), and ‘Hearts Delight’ (two-tone carmine and yellow).

Best in full sun, and in well-drained soil, or in pots or other containers. Fertilize with liquid feed as the flowers fade. Often best planted on their own without other plants in the pot so you can really show off the flower/foliage combinations.

Why did none of my newly planted dwarf bulbs come up?

They were probably dug up and eaten by chipmunks or squirrels, maybe even later in the same day that you planted them! These critters are very clever and can detect the scent of the bulbs under the soil.

There are three solutions. One is to take advantage of the fact that chipmunks and squirrels dislike the taste of some dwarf bulbs and do not eat them. So choose varieties of allium, chionodoxa, daffodils, hyacinths, muscari, scillas and snowdrops.

Another approach is to avoid the dwarf bulbs that they especially do like, so do not plant their favorites – crocuses and tulips.

Finally, plant whichever dwarf bulbs you like but only plant them in clumps and lay a piece of fine wire mesh over the bulbs before filling in the hole. Then the critters will not be able to reach the bulbs to dig them up.

Which miniature spring bulbs are the most deer resistant?

Some dwarf spring bulbs are popular with deer, some are rarely touched and can be considered good deer-resistant plants. 

The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a program in which they test garden flowers for deer resistance and consult with horticultural professionals about which plants deer eat and which they leave alone. 

The dwarf spring bulbs that they rate 'rarely damaged', the top rating out of four for deer resistance, are: alliums, bluebells, daffodils, scillas, snowdrops and winter aconites.

Not sure when to plant daffodil bulbs for the best blooms? Well, time it right, and you can enjoy plenty of spring cheer across your yard. True harbingers of spring, nothing beats these bold beauties for signalling that warmer days are just around the corner.

Flowering from late January through to May, daffodils, also known widely as narcissi, are well worth including in your plot. Faithfully flowering year after year, they will also readily multiply if happy with their spot. This combined with their pest resistant and easy-going nature, makes them a treasured garden hero and – what’s more – there are plenty of beautiful variations to choose from.

If you plant daffodil bulbs, from exquisite miniatures and delicate multi stemmed flowers to unmistakable stately golden trumpets, it's easy to plan a continuous seasonal display. This guide will explain when to plant daffodil bulbs both in the ground and in containers along with tips from gardening experts, too.

‘Daffodils are a perennial investment in your garden, and one planting can lead to a lifetime of blooms for you and your children,’ says Chris Wiesinger, owner of The Southern Bulbs Co. ‘By following some simple techniques, such as planting the right daffodils in the right locations, you can have a garden that grows in bold colors of gold, yellow, orange, white, and pink year after year.’

When to plant daffodil bulbs

Planting daffodil bulbs in fall is key to strong, plentiful blooms and healthy bulbs that will perform year on end. 

As with all flowering bulbs, they need a cold period to put out roots before shooting into leaf and eventually into flower in spring. Depending on the zone you live in wait until fall when the ground has cooled down but before it freezes. This will vary from September through to November, due to the local climate.

When to plant daffodils in beds and borders

Clumps of golden daffodils and cream narcissi are for many the epitome of a springtime garden and perfect for spring flower bed ideas. Nestled in amongst other herbaceous plants and shrubs, they put on a steadfast display from late January through to May. Planting time does vary from area to area, depending on the climate, so do check the USDA plant hardiness zone for your locality.

New England grower Dianne Mrak, writing for The American Daffodil Society says, ‘I try to begin planting my bulbs about the first week in October, however, I have planted as late as December 1st with no negative effects on the daffodils. The only exception to that is for the miniatures. Because they are so small and have less mass, they seem to do better if I plant them as soon as I can after receiving them.’

In the South, Sandra Stewart, member of The American Daffodil Society advises, ‘You can plant daffodil bulbs anytime during the winter months that the ground isn’t frozen but earlier is better. Holding bulbs out for too long causes them to dehydrate and will drain their vitality for your first year of bloom. Try to be done before Christmas. You don’t have to plant daffodil bulbs as deep in the South since the ground rarely freezes.’

When to naturalize daffodil bulbs

Planting daffodils within a lawn or under a tree, creates a stunning garden spectacle. Best arranged by casually scattering the dry bulbs freely across the area and then planted where they fall it is a technique that works particularly well with dwarf types such as minnow or the larger Dutch Master or February Gold. But when to plant daffodil bulbs in this way?

‘Do this in the fall once temperatures have started to cool some but before the leaves fall off of the deciduous trees,’ says Chris Wiesinger, owner of The Southern Bulbs Co. ‘This should ensure the bulbs aren’t exposed to brutal summer sun and heat, and the soon to fall leaves will act as a natural mulch. Remember, our farm is in a zone 8 climate, so even though we do get freezes, they are rarely hard freezes like a zone 6 or colder, so the leaves provide plenty of cover for these shallowly planted daffodil bulbs.’ 

What is the best month to plant daffodils?

The season for planting daffodil bulbs is between September until end of November, but experts generally agree to wait until the cooler temperatures have arrived. ‘In most of North America, the soil will have cooled to below 60℉ by October or November,’ say the experts at Spring Hill Nurseries. ‘By waiting until the soil is chilled, you're saving your daffs from sprouting before the winter dormant period, which can sap their winter resources.’ 

How late can you plant daffodil bulbs?

Don’t despair if you overlook bulbs and discover them a few weeks or months later. Check to make sure they are firm and mold-free and plant as normal. They may not perform too well in the first year, but they should recover and flower in subsequent ones.

If the ground is frozen by the time you come to plant, opt for growing them in a pot instead. Daffodil bulbs are pretty tough and can always be transplanted into the ground after they have bloomed.

Planting bulbs in fall is a seasonal gardening ritual and deeply satisfying task. From the minute dormant bulbs appear online or on retailer’s shelves, many of us green-fingered types are drawn to the promise of growing something new and a colorful show of blooms for months and years to come. 

Spring bulbs, such as cheery narcissi, classy tulips, alliums and delicate snake’s head fritillaria are just some of the spectacular bulbs that need to be planted during the next month or so, but just how do you plant bulbs, what to choose and when exactly will they flower?

Well, the good news is that by following a few simple pointers you can grow and enjoy a dazzling display. Get to know when to plant bulbs, and how deep, how tall each type grows, and when they flower, to plan beautiful and truly bespoke combinations. Hugely versatile, these homeyard favorites will happily thrive in borders, planters, window boxes and raised beds too, so make the most of them and cram them into every planting opportunity.

Planting bulbs in fall

Celebrate the change of season by planting bulbs in fall. The perfect pick-me-up to the arrival of cooler days and longer nights has to be planning which stunning blooms to grow for the following year – and not just for spring; you can plant summer bulbs, too. 

‘We recommend you purchase your bulbs as soon as they come into store or become available online to ensure you get the best selection,' says Dan Dunbar, Hillier Bulb Expert. ‘Take your bulbs home and store them somewhere dry and cool until you’re ready to plant them. Smaller bulbs, like galanthus (snowdrops), dry out quickly so plant them as soon as you can after purchase.’

1. Narcissus and daffodils

The cheery harbingers of spring narcissus and daffodils are easy going and never fail to raise a smile. Reliable performers, most varieties will continue flowering from early February through to May, year-after-year with very little care and attention. 

‘Daffodils are the most cost effective, pest-free, long-term perennial plants available and make wonderful companions with other bulbs, perennials, annuals and flowering shrubs,’ say bulb specialists Brent and Becky Heath. ‘They grow in almost all areas of the United States as long as there is a discernible winter.’ 

Fantastic as cut flowers and mostly pest-free, they are best grown in a sunny spot in soil that has been enriched with compost. Plant daffodil bulbs at three times the bulb depth. 

Varieties vary widely from miniature daffodils such as 4in (10cm) tall Heart-to-Heart through to the stately ‘Dutch Master’ which stands at 20in (50cm) high. Many blooms are deliciously fragrant – look for Poeticus Narcissi ‘The Bride’ and ‘Actaea’, while ‘Minnow’ and ‘Tete a Tete’ are showy multi-stemmed beauties, that flower early and mid-spring respectively.

2. Tulips 

Perhaps the most iconic flowering bulbs, tulips dazzle with their endless flower shapes and spectrum of color. Easy going and extremely long-lasting, they put on a spectacular show in pots, window boxes and borders every spring from March through late May. 

Highly prized and proudly traded in Europe during the late 16th century as luxury items, these favorites never fail to please. Chris Ireland-Jones of Avon Bulbs explains: 'Some love simple flowers but the breeding of tulips for cut flowers in particular has led to an ever-widening selection of colors, color mixes and flower shapes. 

'Choose between ruffled petalled (the Parrot Tulips), Fringed where the edges of the petals are frilled as though cut with pinking scissors, lily flowered with elegantly longer and flared petals forming a vase like shape and the traditional single and double petalled forms.'

Like most flowering bulbs, tulips thrive in zones with cold winters – USDA zones 3-8. Annabelle Jones from the UK’s renown Whichford Pottery says ‘Tulip bulbs can be planted in pots from early fall. We use a good peat-free multi-purpose compost and plant the bulbs a few inches apart at least three times the depth of the bulb. We always cram in as many bulbs as possible and often layer with other spring bulbs, like narcissi and crocus, growing up through stylish arrangements of winter-hardy plants, like Myosotis, Erysimum and Violas.’ 

She also adds, ‘Use deeper pots for tall varieties, saving shallower pots for shorter varieties.’

Plant tulip bulbs in the ground right through to late November. Planting during colder temperatures can help prevent fungal diseases which can linger in the soil when it is warmer.

3. Allium

‘With striking, globe-shaped blooms alliums are real showstoppers.’ says Marcus Eyles, Horticultural Director at Dobbies. ‘They typically flower in late spring and are great for big pots or middle of a border of ground cover plants.’ 

Best planted in October, they are trouble free, loved by pollinators and add plenty of height, color and personality to the garden. They also make dramatic and long-lasting cut flowers.

Closely related to garlic, shallots and leeks there are alliums or ‘ornamental onions’ with blooms of many different shapes and sizes. ‘Purple Sensation’ is a classic choice with straight stems measuring 24-30 inches (60-76 cm) tall topped with 3-4 inches (7.5-10cm) diameter spherical blooms in late April – May. 

Fancy a flowering giant? ‘Globemaster’ is credited with producing the largest flowerheads during June and July. Reaching 6 inches (15cm) across they are truly majestic, improve year-on-year and repeat flower too. Other unusual alliums to look out for include unruly and mop-headed allium ‘Hair’; the pointy allium ‘Red Mohican’ and the white explosion that is allium schubertii ‘Artic snow’.

Just like their blooms, allium bulbs vary in size. As a rule, plant at a depth of roughly four times the diameter of the bulbs. Space smaller bulbs 3-4inches (7.5-10cm) apart and large with an 8 inch (20cm) gap between them. Eyles also adds, ‘When buying bulbs choose ones that are firm and remember the bigger the bulb the better the flower.’ 

They prefer free draining soil in a sunny spot, where they can remain undisturbed.

4. Grape hyacinth

Flowering prolifically from March to April, grape hyacinths (aka Muscari) create a dense carpet of intense blue or white blooms set against lime green leaves. Lovers of moist yet well drained soil and a sunny or part-shady spot, they reliably appear year-after-year and have a pesky habit of taking over if you let them. One solution is to grow them as container gardening ideas to limit their spread, but they are also very easily lifted and divided after flowering, if grown in borders or along paths.

Standing at just 6 inches (15cm) tall, these miniature blooms are best grown in clumps or drifts. Plant around 3 inches (8cm) deep and apart. Will thrive in HDSA zones 4-9.

5. Ranunculus

Also known as Persian Buttercups, these multi-layered, cup-shaped flowers flourish best in sunny spots that are not too hot. Sitting atop of soft, ferny foliage they bloom from late May through June and reach heights of 7-10 inches (20-30cm), making them perfect for the front of borders or pots.  They also look stunning displayed on a tabletop or indoors as a cut flower. 

In fall, plant these tubers outside in HDSA zones 8-10. Known as claws – thanks to their unusual and distinctive shape – plant them ‘eyes up, claws down’ 2 inches (5cm) deep and 4 inches (10cm) apart.

6. Trumpet lily

Hardy in HDSA zones 5 to 9 and best planted in early fall, trumpet lilies or lily longiflorium make a striking statement in large pots or in amongst perennials in a border. Producing a dozen or more large trumpet style blooms on a 5 to 6 feet (1.5m- 1.8m) tall stem during May and June, these fuss-free plants are star performers. Their delicious scent is a magnet for many pollinators and hummingbirds and is particularly enchanting during the evening.

Grown from tubers, roots of this lily type are produced both from the base and stem so plant at a depth roughly two-and-a-half times the height of the bulb. To care for Easter lilies, place in a semi-shady spot and incorporate plenty of grit into the soil to ensure good drainage. Sit tubers on their flat base with the pointed tip of the bulb scales pointing upwards. 

7. Crocus

Whether you have room for a single pot or far-reaching carpet of flowers, crocus never cease to impress. Coming in all shades from purest white, golden yellow through to deep purple, these miniature charmers provide plentiful pollen and nectar for bees and, of course, highly prized culinary saffron.

When to plant crocus? Plant spring-flowering crocus throughout the fall for a continuous display. Begin planting in September working through to November to guarantee an early spring show that will last for several weeks. This will encourage the dry dormant bulbs to put out and develop roots while the soil is still relatively warm, before colder temperatures arrive. Amber Williams from Bulb specialists J. Parkers says, ‘These bulbs and corms are quite small and should be planted in well-drained soil around two to three times their depth. That’s about 4-6 inches (10-15cm).’

The early crocus or Crocus tommasinianus are the best choice for naturalizing in the lawn. Plant them en masse in a sunny, open spot and watch how they multiply and gradually spread in subsequent years. For containers, opt for bold varieties with larger cup shaped flowers such as ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ and purple-lilac ‘King of the Striped.’

8. Hyacinths

An early spring favorite for many, hyacinths always impress with their highly fragrant and intricate blooms. Ideal for planting in baskets, pots or clustered together in a border they create a lavish display March through to April. 

These bulbs need a period of at least three months where temperatures remain cool between 40° to 45°F (4° to 7°C), which makes them suitable for growing outside in HDSA zones 3 to 9. 

Plant outside from September through to November in sunny spot that enjoys free draining soil. As sizeable bulbs they need to be placed around 4 inches (10cm) below the soil surface and spaced 3 inches (8cm) apart. Do wear gloves when handling hyacinth bulbs though as they can cause skin irritation.

9. Camassia

Originating from the North American prairies, Camassia bulbs put on a stunning show from May through June. Frost hardy and suited to HDSA zones 4-8, they love a moist, humus rich soil but hated standing in waterlogged spots. Instantly recognizable for their starry spires of bright blue blooms, that gradually open from base to tip, they make a stylish statement in any springtime yard. 

Plant these bulbs in full sun or part shade, where they can grow undisturbed for several years. Place 3-4inches (8cm) below the soil’s surface, spaced 7 inches (20cm) apart. 

10. Fritillaria imperialis

Although there are many different species of spring flowering fritillaria to choose from, the most recognizable has to be Crown Imperial. Standing at around 30 inches (80cm) tall they have a ring of bright yellow, orange or red bell flowers crowned with curious green spiky foliage. Majestic and speedy growers, in HDSA zones 5-9, they flower during April and May before dying back right down to ground in early summer.

Plant these tall bulbs deeply – around four times the height of the bulb – in free draining soil. Flower bulb triallist Sarah Raven also says that, ‘the large concave types, like the crown imperials are better planted on their sides so that they do not fill with water and rot.’

11. Snake's head fritillary

With their delicate bell-shaped flowers hanging from pin-straight, slender stems in April and May, you can’t fail to be bewitched by a group of snake’s head fritillary. Standing at 6 inches (15cm) they work well grouped at the front of a border or grown in a shallow planter. 

Often naturalized into a grassy spot or meadow area, their plum, white and burgundy blooms dazzle against a swath of lush green grass. Plant specialist and triallist Sarah Raven says, ‘These bulbs can be naturalized in grass but make sure you don't cut the foliage until June/July. Avoid disturbance and never cut them right down because they may stop flowering. Top dress annually with manure.’

Unlike many flowering bulbs these prefer a moist soil in full sun or dappled shade and are happier in clay rather than free draining chalk or sand. Plant 3-4 inches (8-10cm) deep and 4-6 inches (10-15cm) apart. 

Exceptionally handy down to temperatures of 14°F (-10°C) they will happily grow outside in HDSA zones 4 – 8. 

12. Iris reticulata

Available in icy shades of white and palest blue through to intense purple and blue, Iris reticulata always provide a welcome long-lasting show in early spring. Whether grown in pots or in clumps by the front entranceway, you can’t fail to overlook their gorgeous scent and what’s more, as long as they have a sunny spot in free-draining soil they will reliably perform for years on end.

Iris reticulata bulbs are best planted in October and closely together at 4in (10cm) apart and 3in (7cm) deep. Their tiny size makes them ideal for layering in a container amongst other spring flowering bulbs. Will thrive in USDA zones 5-8. 

What if I forgot to plant bulbs in fall?

Try and plant spring flowering bulbs as soon as you buy them but if they get overlooked don’t panic. There are a few pointers you should look for to help decide whether they are still healthy and worth planting. The team at Phostrogen explain, ‘A healthy bulb should be dry, with no leaves or roots beginning to grow before it is put in the ground. The longer you wait to plant them, the more likely it is that they’ll struggle to flower next season!’

You can, of course, look to force bulbs for an earlier showing, too.

Where to buy fall bulbs

You can buy the fall bulbs at your local nursery; ask for guidance if you need help. Otherwise, shop online for the best places to buy plants. These include: Lowes Garden Center, Home Depot's Garden Center and Burpeefor the best buys. 

Are you searching for inspiration for what to plant in September? As we enjoy the last warm days of late summer and the peak growing season begins to gradually slow, it is the perfect time to be out in the garden planting for the seasons ahead.

Whether you're looking to include more structural trees and shrubs as part of your garden ideas, to enhance the spring and summer displays in your flower bed ideas or grow short-season edibles and winter harvesting crops for vegetable garden ideas, there is plenty to do.

As the temperatures start to cool towards the end of September, and days shorten it is the prime time to plant many additions to the ornamental and productive areas of your garden

This is what you should be planting in September

When it comes to choosing what to plant in September, there are many hardy annuals to pick from. Sowing the seeds in fall will often result in more robust plants that have a bit of a head start so will flower earlier in spring next year.

'You'll get bigger, better plants which can flower a good six weeks earlier than those that are spring sown. In fact, some varieties are utterly transformed by fall sowing,' explains plant expert Sarah Raven.

It is also a good time to be planting spring bulbs while the ground is still warm, along with some hardy winter flowers, such as flowering perennials, and you can also plant ornamental grasses in September.

1. Ammi majus 

Ammi majus or bishop's flower, 'has lacy white flowers, like a more delicate form of cow parsley. It is the best white filler foliage plant you can grow when planning a cut flower garden if you're considering what to plant in September, and looks spectacular when arranged in a great cloud on its own,' says Sarah. Sow seeds direct in fall, thinning seedlings to 60cm apart, for larger and more prolific flowers by late spring.

2. Scabious ‘Black Cat’ 

Scabious, also known as the pincushion flower, is a family of flowers known for their reliability. 'Scabious ‘Black Cat’ has gently scented, dark, rich velvet, crimson, mini-pincushions on long, wiry stems,' says Sarah.

Flowering over a long season, it is an insect-friendly choice, so among the plants for pollinators.

Sow under cover in gentle heat and overwinter seedlings somewhere cool and bright.

3. Euphorbia oblongata

Euphorbia oblongata with its brilliant acid-green flowers and bold, strong shapes, 'is really a short-lived perennial, but it flowers best in its first year, so treat it as a hardy annual,' says Sarah.

'Sow under cover this month, then either plant seedlings out in mild gardens or overwinter in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse to plant out in the spring. Cut flowers with care and use gloves to avoid the milky sap which can cause severe skin irritation.'

Euphorbia is also a popular cottage garden plant, if you are planning a cottage garden scheme.

4. Calendula – English or pot marigolds

Hardy annuals, calendula bring a cheery splash of color to beds and borders, and their deep orange petals can also be used raw in salads.

Also known as English or pot marigolds, they should not, however, be confused with marigolds that are part of the tagetes family. How to grow marigolds of this variety is quite different.

Sow calendula seeds in September where they are to flower. First improve the soil with well-rotted compost, or use a peat-free multi-purpose compost if planting in containers. Sow the seed thinly in rows, 1/2 inch (1cm) deep, and cover lightly with soil. Keep them weed-free while they germinate, and once seedlings have grown, thin them to 4-6 inches (10-15cm) apart. They should flower in May when sown in the fall.

Loved by bees and butterflies, calendula also makes an excellent flower choice for companion planting if you are planning a kitchen garden, as its strong scent also confuses pests.

'If you want a plant that works hard and looks great, you need calendula in your garden,' says Amy Enfield of Bonnies Plants.

5. Daffodils

The harbingers of spring, daffodils and narcissi fill beds and borders with their gently nodding yellow or white heads, or can be naturalised in lawns and meadows. With myriad varieties available, you'll be spoilt for choice when deciding what to plant in September.

It is easy to learn how to plant daffodil bulbs, which are best planted in fall, in sun or part shade.

'You need to plant the bulbs deep so that they have stronger stems, but also so there is less chance of damaging the bulbs when you dig in new plants next year,' explains gardening expert Monty Don in a video for Gardeners' World.

'Daffodils should stay and flower for years and years,' adds Monty.

Also ideal for spring container gardening displays, ensure the daffodils are planted in a pot has adequate drainage by putting some broken crockery or stones in the bottom, and then fill with multi-purpose compost. Water thoroughly and leave the pots in a cool spot until leaves appear, and plant along with other best winter plants for pots and borders.

6. Pansies

Winter pansies can breathe new life into your fall garden and brighten up garden beds and containers through the colder and darker months with their pretty blooms available in a huge array of colorful combinations.

It is easy to learn how to grow pansies 'and they require only a minimum of care to provide a very long flowering season,' explains Simon Crawford at Burpee Europe.

Start planting these small perennials in September to give their roots time to grow enough to survive winter. Plus, by planting pansies in fall, you'll get to enjoy their flowers through winter and again in spring.

Fertilize after planting and add a thick layer of mulch around them once the ground freezes to help them overwinter.

To keep them looking their best, find out how to deadhead pansies and they will bloom for longer.

What vegetables should I be planting in September?

September is a bumper harvest month, so it can be hard to think ahead for future crops. There are, however, many vegetables to plant in September, so take the opportunity to plant crops that will provide winter harvests and earlier spring and summer veg, and which are also great additions for small vegetable garden ideas.

It is particularly important to make the most of every available space and time for planting for small vegetable garden ideas.

1. Spring onions

Spring onions sown now will give you a lovely start to the spring harvest. Learn how to grow spring onions and start off seeds in a seed tray and then transplant to their final area when seedlings are large enough to handle.

If you have a shady garden, spring onions are also among the easiest vegetables to grow in shade.

2. Garlic

Garlic is such a versatile vegetable and used as an ingredient in so many dishes it is a worthwhile crop to grow. Growing garlic does take some time as it needs a long growing season to thrive – sowing in September will ensure a bigger and better crop is produced.

It will take about 10 months from planting the cloves in fall, until you can harvest your homegrown garlic bulbs and replenish your stocks of this essential kitchen ingredient.

Plant in rows spaced 30cm apart just below the soil surface, spacing each clove 15cm apart.

Once you have grown your own pungent bulbs, also ensure you know how to store garlic to keep it fresh.

3. Shallots

Shallots have a long growing cycle, so planting these seeds now will ensure a summer harvest. Space them 20cm apart, allowing 30cm between rows. Cover with fleece or netting to protect the bulbs from birds.

4. Spinach

Tasty, nutritious and easy to grow, plant hardy winter varieties of spinach in September for a winter harvest. The versatile veg is great for adding to warming curries, pies or stews.

The key to success in how to grow spinach is to first enrich the soil by digging in some good quality garden compost. 'There is no such thing as putting too much compost in garden soil. Vigorous spinach is tasty spinach,' advises Simon Crawford.

You could be harvesting spinach leaves within 6 to 10 weeks. Spinach is also a good crop for growing in containers.

5. Radishes

With their fresh, peppery taste and colorful skins, radishes can be added to salads or roasted for a more subtle, earthier flavor.

Fall grown radishes can be bigger and better as they are less likely to bolt quickly like their spring grown cousins.

A quick and easy fall crop, how to grow radishes successfully is to ensure they have a sunny position in moist well drained soil - as long as they have those conditions they can cope with most soil types.

September is an ideal month for when to plant radishes. They are quick to grow so sow radish seeds sparingly, but often, to enjoy a continual harvest through fall and winter. There are signs for when to harvest radishes to pick them at their best.

They are also among the easiest vegetables to grow.

6. Turnips

If you get them in early at the beginning of the month, there is still time to sow turnips for a fall or winter harvest.

This fast growing crop is best sown little and often. Grow in cool, moisture-retentive soil, in a sunny location, or in large containers to harvest as baby veg – lovely for roasting or using in salads.

Shrubs and trees to plant in September

Early fall is nature's planting time - so when deciding what to plant in September look to evergreen trees and shrubs.

If planted at this time, trees and shrubs will require minimal attention as the roots should take well and establish while the soil is still warm and moist.

'Chances are, if you plant now you will have less aftercare to administer next season,' explains gardening writer Andy McIndoe and author of Shrubs: Discover the Perfect Plant for Every Place in Your Garden.

Ground preparation is the key to successful planting. Dig in plenty of homemade garden compost or a shrub and tree compost.

Many options for shrubs and trees to plant in September will also offer color through the season.

1. Cotinus – smoke bush

Cotinus varieties offer a range of leaf color, ranging from green to purple and lovely fiery hues of yellow to deep scarlet in fall.

Also known as the smoke bush, due to the soft pink summer flowers that resemble clouds of smoke, continus can grow quite large, although can be pruned to manage their size.

Be sure to water the plant thoroughly before removing from its pot and dig a hole deep and wide enough to fit the rootball with space around. Backfill and then firm the soil around the roots.

2. Hydrangeas

The striking flowerheads of hydrangeas are a common sight in gardens and come in a range of shapes and in shades of blue, pink and white.

'Hydrangeas are a beautiful choice for color throughout summer into fall and do best in dappled shade. Plant in swathes of mixed hues, or repeated varieties for impact,' says gardening expert Leigh Clapp.

If you are growing hydrangeas, this deciduous hardy flowering shrub should be planted in September when the ground is warm and moist.

They do well in most soil types, as long as it is well drained, but the pH of the soil will change the color of the flowers of some varieties. Some plants that usually have pink flowers will appear blue if the soil is acidic rather than alkaline.

'As their names suggest, hydrangeas like moisture, so give the new plants a mulch with leaf mold to help keep the moisture in,' explains Monty Don.

With many different species, it is important to know when to plant hydrangeas of different varieties and how to prune hydrangeas so that you enjoy success with your plants.

3. Japanese maple – acer palmatum

Varieties of Acer palmatum or Japanese maple trees offer wonderful choices of color in fall and the trees have a variety of shapes. They are among the best trees for fall color.

'I would always choose a purple-leaved variety like ‘Bloodgood’ or ‘Fireglow’. These give you colorful foliage through spring and summer and a splendid show in fall,' says Andy McIndoe.

For a Japanese garden, plant acers in September, choosing a sheltered, lightly shaded spot. Dig a hole twice as wide and a bit deeper than the root ball. If the soil is heavy add a layer of planting compost mixed with grit. Water well once planted and keep well watered in first growing season.

Herbs and salads to plant in September

At this time of year, the warm soil, cooler weather, and moisture in the ground help herb and salad plants to establish quickly.

There are some herbs that actually grow better in fall as part of your herb garden ideas than in spring as they are less likely to bolt with the weather is not so warm. This means September is a good time to plant certain herbs.

1. Cilantro – coriander

Cilantro is used widely in eastern and Indian cooking and also adds a distinctive, pungent flavor to salad dishes,

It's easy to grow cilantro, which can be sown directly in the soil in September. Choose a spot close to the kitchen so that you can quickly pop out and harvest the leaves of this popular herb regularly for use in many dishes. It is best to sow the seeds little and often.

Learn how to harvest cilantro so that you can enjoy a continual harvest of the tasty and versatile leaves.

2. Rocket

Although we commonly associate them with summer dishes, salad leaves should not be discounted when considering what to plant in September as part of your kitchen garden ideas.

Spicy and peppery rocket leaves are a great choice when you're thinking about what to plant in September, and add a distinctive taste to salads, or added to pasta dishes before serving.

Sow a small amount of seeds in a sunny, weed-free patch with well-draining soil, every couple of weeks for successional harvests. Space seeds about 1 inch (3cm) apart, and cover lightly with soil, then water in well. Cover crops with horticultural fleece when the temperature drops.

You will be able to harvest leaves about 4 weeks after sowing, and pick the younger leaves, which are milder and more tender.

3. Winter lettuce

Lettuces can be grown in fall and are always a winner on the vegetable patch. If you sow them every few weeks through September and October, you should be able to enjoy a supply of fresh leaves through to spring.

Growing winter lettuce is no different from how to grow lettuce in the spring and summer. In fact, as cool-season crops, the germination and growth rates of lettuce can be better when they are planted in September.

You need to know how to harvest lettuce to ensure you get a continual supply of tasty and nutritious leaves.

This is a great selection of crops and plants to start you off, but there are many more options you could choose for what to plant in September.

Jobs to do in the garden in September

Lift, divide and replant clumps of herbaceous perennials when they have finished flowering, such as geraniums, delphiniums and lupins, to keep them healthy and multiply numbers

Trim hedges to maintain their shape, prevent them from becoming untidy and keep them growing well, but take care not to disturb any birds’ nests

Clean the greenhouse glass inside and out using warm, soapy water, and disinfect flooring and shelving with an environmentally friendly disinfectant to control pests and diseases

Deadhead late summer flowers, such as dahlias, roses and penstemons, to keep them blooming into autumn, by cutting just below the spent flowerhead

Discover which are the best rabbit repellent plants so you can prevent your prize plants and crops from being ravaged by these pesky critters. Yes, they have an insatiable appetite but there are plenty of tasty herbs, beautiful blooms and gorgeous foliage plants to fill your yard that rabbits simply won’t go near. 

From early flourishing hellebores, with their delicate nodding heads to cheery daffodils, statement drumstick alliums through to ostentatious dahlias that continually bloom right through to the first frosts, it’s possible to protect your patch year-round.

We’ve put together a hot list of the most effective plants so you can grow them around the perimeter of your plot, surround your veg beds or just dot them amongst your borders. Like mosquito-repellent plants, they're gorgeous to look at and will keep pests (or pets) away.

Rabbit-repellent plants

Whether your backyard is regularly invaded by wild rabbits or your pets are turning your pretty patch into a wasteland, these are the rabbit-repellent plants that will grow undisturbed by bunnies. Take note, though: many of these are poisonous plants that you may want to avoid if you have pets that like to nibble in the garden, too.

1. Peonies

Beautiful and blowsy, herbaceous peonies are real showstoppers and generally given a wide berth by rabbits. 

If you are growing peonies, they are best planted in spring or fall, and these long-lived perennials thrive in a sunny spot with free draining soil and contrary to common belief, are hardy and easy to grow. 

As plant expert Claire Austin explains, 'Peonies thrive almost anywhere in parts of the world where the temperature drops below freezing in winter and they need almost no attention once established.' 

Planting at the right depth is crucial, ideally just 3cm below the surface. Water well when first planted and throughout the following summer but do avoid overwatering. The heavy blooms appear in May/June and do need supporting – choose from simple metal hoops or more decorative baskets.

Discover when to cut back peonies to get the best blooms the following year.

2. Foxgloves

Adored by bees and pollinators, the deep pink spires of foxgloves are a majestic sight in any yard or border. They are detested by rabbits however and this may be to do with the fact that all parts of the plant are toxic; in fact they are poisonous for pets and plants that are toxic to cats. 

A short-lived perennial, plant foxgloves in full sun, acidic or alkaline soil but it must be free draining. These elegant blooms do self-seed freely, so you may find that you have a mass display in subsequent years. Hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10.

3. Daffodils and narcissus

Rabbits stay clear of munching these cheery bulbs as they contain poisonous substance called lycorine (note: they are toxic for cats, poisonous plants for dogs and children, too).

Lycorine is also present in many species of bush lily, and digesting a large amount of this toxin can prove lethal and even a small amount, is a strong irritant. 

Capitalize on this natural bunny deterrent by planting daffodil bulbs in swathes along the edges of your yard. 

There are many varieties to choose from, so it’s possible to enjoy a prolonged and varied display if you plant successionally. Like most flowering bulbs, Narcissi dislike sitting in wet, soggy conditions so if planting on damp ground do add a handful of grit into each planting hole first.

4. Snowdrops

Like other flowering bulbs, snowdrops are toxic (to cats and dogs) and unattractive to constantly nibbling rabbits. In most cases, these pesky munchers will stay well clear and move on, so why not take advantage of their natural instincts and plant them in large numbers around your patch? 

Amongst the best shade plants, they do well if planted when they have just finished flowering but still in leaf – also known as being ‘in the green’, pop them in pots, troughs or generous clumps amongst grass and flower borders. 

Plant expert Sarah Raven says, 'Snowdrops like dappled shade and thrive in reliably moist, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter so add plenty of leaf mould or garden compost to the soil prior to planting. 

'Plant at a depth of about 4in and space them about 4in apart. Once you have planted them, leave undisturbed for a few years until they start to look overcrowded. Then, just after flowering, lift split them by hand into smaller clumps.’

5. Allium

Thanks to their high sulfonic content and pungent smell, alliums are very effective at keeping rabbits at bay. Fortunately, they are stunning flowers too, with their deep purple pom-poms perched atop of straight stems. 

Scatter them in the flower border, amongst ground cover plants or grow in shallow dish shaped planters for an eye-catching display. 

One word of warning though, the wide strappy leaves are less than lovely and the perfect spot for hiding slugs and snails, so do keep them away from delicate salad leaves and bedding plants. However, they are easy to grow and make fantastic low maintenance garden border ideas.

6. Lavender

We grow lavender because it's divine in both looks and fragrance, but did you know that lavender is also brilliant at keeping rabbits at bay? Thanks to the high concentration of linalool in the plant’s natural oil, it is simply too strong for rabbits to handle, overloading their sensitive olfactory organs. As a result, they stay well clear, leaving us to enjoy the heady scent and gorgeous sight of these tiny mauve blooms swaying above the silvery-green leaves.

Depending on your HDSA Zone you can take your pick from the many different varieties. French lavender is less hardy preferring temperatures above 10°F while the smaller English varieties can cope with a brisk -12°F. It’s also worth pruning lavender straight after flowering to promote fresh new growth.

7. Hellebores

Good news – these early flowering beauties are not only the best winter plants for pots and borders, they also offer early spring color and interest, while most other plants are lying dormant. And, they keep rabbits away too. 

Grow hellebores for flowering from January to May. Hellebores will tolerate most positions from part shade to full sun but once planted they dislike being moved.

Flower color varies from white, rose pink, green to deepest burgundy and many have markings such as delicate freckles, stripes, spots to fine contrast edging. There are also single and double blooms and different plants freely self-seed resulting in many unique and fascinating variations. Suitable for growing in USDA zones 3-9.

8. Mint

Adored by most but hated by rabbits, growing mint is hard to beat for sheer summer charm. Sun and part shade loving, there are many different varieties to grow, each with their own distinct flavor and fragrance. 

Peppermint and spearmint are two of the strongest scented mints so are well worth growing to keep rabbits at bay. These herbs will shoot in spring, to reach around 3ft (1m) before dying back to ground level in fall. 

For the best results cut stems back to 2 inches (5cm) after flowering and keep container grown plants well-watered. A word of warning from the team at Crocus: ‘Initially upright, the stems become lax as they grow, and begin to root where they touch the ground, so in time large clumps will be formed. If you prefer to keep them under control, they are best planted in large pots or containers.’

9. Rosemary

Despite hailing from warm, Mediterranean climes this distinctive culinary herb is pretty tough, and thanks to its delicious woody scent and slightly spiky habit is excellent at keeping rabbits away. Hardy down to Zone 6-20°F it will happily thrive in full sun and free draining soil. Covered in tiny purple flowers in early spring and summer, it looks stunning too and is a real nectar rich magnet for bees. 

If you are growing  rosemary, you will have to clip it back every spring to promote fresh new growth, as it’s these that shoots are packed with the strongest concentration of oils, resulting in the most potent flavor and fragrance. Whilst mostly hardy it may lose some leaves during the winter, unless protected, but the plant should re shoot in spring. Avoid letting soil become waterlogged though as this is rosemary’s No.1 pet hate.

10. Dahlias

Whether it’s their high sugar content or the woody texture of the stems, dahlias tend to be left well alone by rabbits, though they are great plants for pollinators. 

Okay, when the juicy shoots first appear in spring one or two furry critters may be tempted to have a nibble, but largely these showy blooms don’t appeal at all. All good news for anyone looking to fill their yards with vibrant color and dazzling flowers. In fact, these beauties are pretty popular right now. 

'Dahlias have been enjoying a resurgence in popularity, with the rich jewel shades, pollinator-friendly singles and bold structural forms topping wishlists. Nothing can beat them for their abundance of summer flowers,' says Helen Derrin, In-House designer at Crocus.

Grow dahlias from tubers; these tender perennials will quickly mature into 4ft (1.2m) high plants – perfect for borders and large planters. Preferring a sunny spot in moist but well drained soil, these prolific flowerers will perform from mid-summer through to the first frosts. Best suited to HDSA zones 8-11. You can learn to overwinter dahlias for a fine show next year, too.

Which plants will rabbits not eat?

Besides strong smelling plants – including aromatic herbs and flowers – those sporting spines and prickles are also pretty useful for repelling these nuisance critters. Holly, Cotoneaster, Pyracantha, Acanthus, Echinops and Sea Holly all work well and look fantastic too. 

Grasses such as Pampas, Miscanthus sinesis and flax can be effective too due to both their rustling habit and sharp-edged leaves.

Toxic bulbs and plants are also a good deterrent, as rabbits instinctively know to stay well clear, but it’s worth acknowledging that the fresh shoots of most plants can sometimes prove irresistible to a curious bunny.

How to keep rabbits at bay?

Rabbits can cause utter devastation in your yard in a surprisingly short time, so it’s well worth investigating how to keep them away from your plants and crops. Besides growing rabbit repellent plants that they can’t stand – either due to their strong smell, toxicity or prickly habits – there are other critter friendly methods you can use.

Creating a physical barrier between them and your crops and precious plants is a good starting point. Happy to much their way through plastic mesh, it’s best to go for a wire version with 1inches (2.5cm) holes. Make sure the fence is at least 30 inches (75cm) high plus an extra 6 inches (15cm) buried underground to prevent burrowing.

Biodegradable rabbit repellent sprays and pellets are also effective. Giving off a smell that rabbits can’t stand but that is undetectable to humans, it is best sprinkled as a continuous barrier and remains effective for 6-8 weeks.

Although beautiful to look at, many of our favorites are poisonous plants for dogs and are best avoided. Puppies and young dogs are particularly curious and love to nibble, so stay well clear of any accidents by knowing which plants pose a real threat. 

Like many animals, dogs tend to learn and explore with their mouths. Licking, chewing and chomping on plant material and other items found in their immediate surroundings all comes naturally, but unfortunately this can cause stomach upsets, infections or more serious health issues, even death. 

While most dogs learn from experience or develop an instinctive wariness for strong-smelling plants or those that are high in toxins, there are some poisonous plants for dogs that are persistent, so take a close look at your yard and swap the prime plants culprits for safer varieties. 

Poisonous plants for dogs

From shrubs with stunning foliage to delicate seasonal beauties such as narcissus, tulips and cyclamen, poisonous plants are not always obvious, so we’ve put together a guide to the most popular, so you and your pooch can enjoy home life outside stress free.

1. Castor oil plant

A striking architectural beauty, the castor oil plant thrives in USDA zones 8-12. Reaching heights of 4-5ft (120-150cm) with their stunning palmate lobed leaves and showy flower spikes, they make a real statement in pots and borders and adores a spot in full sun. All part of the plant contains ricin – one of the world’s strongest toxins – so are best avoided by owners of curious dogs. 

As described by the ASPCA, ‘Ricin is a highly toxic component that inhibits protein synthesis; ingestion of as little as one ounce of seeds can be lethal. Signs typically develop 12 to 48 hours after ingestion, and include loss of appetite, excessive thirst, weakness, colic, trembling. As syndrome progresses, bloody diarrhea may occur, and convulsions and coma can precede death.’

Watch out for the seeds as these have the strongest concentration of toxins and be wary of any stray pruning’s that your pet may come across.

2. Cyclamen

Some of the best winter plants for pots and borders, cyclamen are grown from tempting bite-sized corms. While cyclamens are beautiful and delicate to look at, they can cause serious sickness and even death in dogs. 

Sitting near or slightly proud of the soil’s surface they can become a source of curiosity and even a morsel of leaf, stem or flower can result in a stomach upset. It’s the corms or tubers that have the highest concentration of toxic terpenoid saponins and can be really harmful, but most canines will need to devour a large quantity of these spring and fall blooming beauties to be fatal. 

3. English ivy

Commonly found both in the wild and sprawling through backyards, this attractive evergreen climber and ground cover plant is a stalwart of the northern hemisphere. 

Often sold in plant nurseries and online retailers, ivy is a popular choice for window boxes, planters and hanging baskets but is best avoided if you have a curious canine at home. And if you have it already, it is best to get rid of ivy if your dog likes to chew on vegetation.

Experts at the Pet Poison Helpline advise: ‘The leaves and berries of English Ivy contain the toxin pentacyclic terpenoids. Clinical signs drooling, vomiting, and diarrhea are expected following ingestion by pets.’ 

4. Oleander

Oleander made our list of Mediterranean plants to grow. A handsome evergreen shrub that thrives in warmer climates, such as Hawaii, California and Texas, oleander is tough and happy growing in most soil conditions, with sunny aspect. 

Smothered in red, pink or white blooms in summer they make useful hedging and boundary plants as well as low maintenance focal points for large planters and borders. 

Unfortunately, they are highly toxic to dogs, most animals and can cause skin irritation to us too. Containing cardiac glycosides, contact with or eating any part of these plants can result severe breathing problems and heart palpitations.

5. Lily of the valley

Growing widely in USDA Zone 2-9, the delicate nodding white bells of Lily-of-the-valley are a frequent sight in the wild and gardens. These plants make some of the best shade plants – provided they have enough moisture – and can spread rapidly too. These fragrant beauties are not feline-friendly however, and cat parents should be aware. 

Containing over 38 cardenolides, all parts of the plant are toxic to most animals and cause severe heart irregularities and gastro irritation even if the tiniest part is digested. 

FirstVet advises that ‘if you suspect that your pet may have ingested lily of the valley in part or in whole, see a veterinarian immediately, as your pet’s life may be in danger. Prognosis depends on the size and health status of the pet, the amount consumed, and the part of the plant that was eaten. Although all parts are toxic, consumption of the bulb may lead to death within a couple of hours.’

6. Yew

Recognizable for its fine, dark green foliage and juicy red fruits yew can be widely found growing wild, as topiary and is grown as privacy hedging. 

A long-lived evergreen, the needles and seeds – contained with the bright red berry-like covering – are hugely lethal to pets, animals and humans. Containing a poisonous alkaloid, the taxanes, that are particularly concentrated in the tips of the leaves, disrupt the division of cells within the body leading to disruption of blood pressure, heart rate and breathing difficulties. 

The effects are so powerful and reliable that scientists have explored these effects further and successfully used these toxins to treat prostrate and breast cancers. 

7. Foxgloves

A common sight in early summer, these purple floral spires put on a stunning display along woodland fringes and dotted amongst herbaceous borders. Instantly recognizable, we plant foxgloves for their beauty but they are dangerously toxic.

Containing digitalis and other cardiac glycosides that can affect heart rate, they are a common cause of pet poisonings. While most dogs will give these plants a wide berth, some can be tempted to nibble the leaves and fallen blooms.  

‘Foxglove poisoning most often occurs from sucking the flowers or eating the seeds, stems, or leaves of the foxglove,’ say the experts at Pet Partners. ‘To treat a plant-poisoning problem, it’s important for you and your veterinarian to know specifically what plant your dog consumed. If you’re unsure, it might be good to go to a nursery or florist, or bring the plant to your veterinarian for identification.’

8. Daffodils

If your dog is loves nibbling plants, then avoid planting daffodil bulbs and narcissus, because they – like many other flowering bulbs – contain lycorine, a vomit-inducing chemical that can cause severe illness if licked, chewed or swallowed. 

Contained in all parts of the bulb, stem, leaves and flower in varying quantities, even the smallest number of crystals can result in drooling and skin irritation. 

9. Tulips

‘Severe poisoning from hyacinth or tulip poisoning is often seen when dogs dig up freshly planted bulbs or having access to a large bag of them,’ say the experts at Pet Poison Helpline. 

‘When the plant parts or bulbs are chewed or ingested, it can result in tissue irritation to the mouth and esophagus. Typical signs include profuse drooling, vomiting, or even diarrhea, depending on the amount consumed. With large ingestions, more severe symptoms such as an increase in heart rate, changes in respiration, and difficulty breathing may be seen.’

So, avoid planting tulip bulbs if you have a dog that likes to eat just about anything.

10. Azalea and rhododendron

Producing showy blooms from spring to early summer these closely-related plants are a firm fixture in many yards. While larger specimens are known as rhododendrons and tend to be large evergreen shrubs, smaller varieties are classified as azaleas and can be evergreen or deciduous. Unfortunately, both are toxic to animals. 

‘All parts of the plant are considered poisonous, and as little as ingestion of 0.2% of an animal’s body weight can result in poisoning,’ say Pet Poison Helpline.

Containing neuro toxin called grayanotoxin, this harms the skeletal and central nervous system and ultimately, the heart.  

What plants and grasses are toxic to dogs?

While there are numerous plants that are poisonous to dogs, some are more lethal and appealing than others. Flower bulbs are often seen as curious playthings to dogs, and many pets will happily chomp away on any left lying around prior to planting or that have been recently lifted. These can, at the least, cause a stomach upset and drowsiness and at worst prove fatal, so take care to keep them hidden or out of reach.

While most ornamental grasses are dog-friendly there are a couple of exceptions. While non-toxic the fluffy seed heads of pampas grass can severely irritate dogs’ throats and digestive systems. Grass palm or Cordyline australis however does contain saponins and can be extremely harmful if eaten.

How do I stop my dog eating my plants?

There are a few tricks you can try to stop your dog eating your plants. Spray your dog’s favorite plant with a dilution of water and lemon juice. It’s non-toxic to both pet and plant but canines just can’t stand the citrus smell. Orange and lemon peel on the soil beneath the plant are said to have the same effect.

Try offering new stimulating toys as a distraction and always reward good behavior such as leaving tempting plants alone. 

As a last resort, restrict access to the plant area using fencing or lift and replace the plant with a dog-friendly alternative.

Want to know which garden plants are toxic to cats? Many of our favorite, and showiest, outdoor blooms are in fact harmful to our feline friends, so if your pet is particularly curious and is tempted to nibble, it may be well worth removing them from your yard. 

From flowering bulbs, seasonal showstoppers to backyard staples such as castor oil plants and clematis, these poisonous plants are not always obvious, so do your research before you buy anything new for the garden.  

While most cats are wary of eating anything unusual, brushing against a plant or walking over the leaves just before grooming can cause them to ingest toxins which then leads to sickness, fitting or even collapse. Of course, calling the vet is your first point of call in an emergency but why not save yourself the worry and expense by reading up and learning which plants can cause harm? Below, we list 10 plants that are toxic to cats.

Plants that are toxic to cats

Beautiful yet toxic to cats, these are the 10 outdoor plants best avoided in your yard.

1. Day Lily / Hemerocallis

Gardeners grow daylilies for their sweet perfume and showy blooms, but unfortunately every part of the stately lily is highly toxic to cats. ‘Even ingestions of very small amounts of the plant can cause severe kidney damage,’ say the experts at ASPCA. 

Even if your pet is wary enough not to eat any part of the plant, just brushing against or getting the pollen on their paws, before licking or grooming themselves can be enough to cause severe illness. Eliminate the risk and not only avoid growing them in the yard but don't display them as indoor cut flowers, either. 

2. Foxgloves

We plant foxgloves, tall purple spires are a common sight in early summer, for their stunning display along woodland fringes and dotted amongst herbaceous borders; they are instantly recognizable, but these elegant blooms are not all good news. 

Containing digitalis and other cardiac glycosides that can affect heart rate, they are a common cause of pet poisonings. While most cats will give these plants a wide berth, some can be tempted to nibble the leaves and fallen blooms.  

‘Foxglove poisoning most often occurs from sucking the flowers or eating the seeds, stems, or leaves of the foxglove plant,’ say the team at Pet Partners. ‘In order to treat a plant-poisoning problem, it’s important for you and your veterinarian to know specifically what plant your cat consumed. If you’re unsure, it might be good to go to a nursery or florist, or bring the plant to your veterinarian for identification.’

3. Allium

An ornamental member of the onion family, which includes chives, wild and cultivated garlic, leeks and shallots, alliums in bloom look stunning and are amongst the best spring bulbs. They are also to be found on our list of snake-repellent plants, but are potentially harmful to people and pets if any part of the plant or bulb is eaten. 

Containing organo sulfoxides, these toxins can damage blood cells causing anaemia which can prove fatal. 

4. Lily of the valley

Growing widely in USDA Zone 2-9, the delicate nodding white bells of Lily of the valley are a frequent sight in the wild and gardens, and are amongst the best shade plants. These plants will thrive happily in dry shade and full sun – provided they have enough moisture – and can spread rapidly too. These fragrant beauties are not feline-friendly however, and cat parents should be aware. 

Containing over 38 cardenolides, all parts of the plant are toxic to most animals and cause severe heart irregularities and gastro irritation even if the tiniest part is digested. 

FirstVet advises: ‘If you suspect that your pet may have ingested the lily of the valley plant in part or in whole, see a veterinarian immediately, as your pet’s life may be in danger. Prognosis depends on the size and health status of the pet, the amount consumed, and the part of the plant that was eaten. Although all parts are toxic, consumption of the bulb may lead to death within a couple of hours.’

5. Daffodils

If your feline is particularly curious and prone to nibbling plants, then rethink planting daffodil bulbs and narcissus; they are another plant well worth avoiding. Cheery harbingers of spring, easy-to-grow and affordable cut blooms they – like many other flowering bulbs – contain lycorine, a vomit-inducing chemical that can cause severe illness if licked, chewed or swallowed. 

Contained in all parts of the bulb, stem, leaves and flower in varying quantities, even the smallest amount of crystals can result in drooling and skin irritation. 

6. Clematis

Most of us grow clematis for their abundance of late spring/early summer flowers. These woody, twining vines with their huge variety of flower shapes and styles are a staple of most backyards, but did you know their roots, leaves and stems are toxic to cats? 

Containing an irritant glycoside called anemonin, this plant can cause diarrhea, hypersalivation, purging, vomiting and weakness.

7. Castor oil plant

With their stunning palmate lobed leaves and showy flower spikes, the castor oil plant is a striking architectural beauty that thrives in USDA zones 8-12. Reaching heights of 4-5ft (120-150cm) they make a real statement in pots and borders and adores a spot in full sun. All part of the plant do, however, contain ricin – one of the world’s strongest toxins – so are best avoided by owners of curious cats. 

As described by the ASPCA, ‘Ricin is a highly toxic component that inhibits protein synthesis; ingestion of as little as one ounce of seeds can be lethal. Signs typically develop 12 to 48 hours after ingestion, and include loss of appetite, excessive thirst, weakness, colic, trembling. As syndrome progresses, bloody diarrhea may occur, and convulsions and coma can precede death.’

Watch out for the seeds as these have the strongest concentration of toxins and be wary of any stray pruning’s that your pet may come across.

8. Snake's head fritillary

Widely planted in pots, planters and naturalized in lawns, these nodding, white and purple bell-shaped flowers put on a charming display in spring. With wiry stems and thin, grass-like leaves they blend in beautifully in a meadow-like setting but can prove tempting for cats to nibble. 

Containing Imperialine, Tuliplin A and Tuliposide A, these allergens can cause pets irritation leading to sickness and drowsiness. Although unlikely, if a cat eats a large amount, this plant can prove fatal, so immediate veterinary attention is essential.

9. Madagascar periwinkle

Easy-to-grow either as a perennial or hardy annual in HDSA Zones 7 to 11, the Madagascar periwinkle is a low growing plant smothered with red, pink or white, five petalled blooms set against glossy, deep green leaves. 

Preferring full sun, this charming plant is popular for baskets, planters and lining walkways and has many hidden medical properties. Jake Newitt at Royal Botanic Gardens Kew says, ‘This periwinkle plant consists of vinca alkaloids which are sometimes used to prepare medicines for people suffering from diabetes and high blood pressure. It contains alkaloids which are often used in chemotherapy for selective poisoning of the cancer cells in humans and animals.’ 

Due to these potent effects overdoses are possible for plant munching pets, resulting in severe poisoning.

10. Bare naked ladies

Also known as colchicum, naked ladies and meadow saffron, these large crocus-like lavender blooms share the same toxicity as found in many other flowering bulbs. Containing alkaloid colchicine, it can cause pets to develop excessive drooling, sickness, seizures and breathing problems after eating, immediately or over the following days. This can prove fatal if left untreated. 

What plants to avoid if you have cats?

Some felines have a tendency to nibble plants – leaves, stems or roots – and many can do them great harm. Whether its due to them seeking out extra vegetation and fibre to help with digestion or just pure curiosity, the results can, in some cases cause extreme sickness or fatalities. Take a note of which outdoor plants are the highest risk, eliminate them from your yard and strike them off your plant nursery wish-list.

The experts at International Cat Care also suggest, ‘Free-roaming cats have access to many gardens so it will be impossible to prevent all possible contact with potentially harmful plants. You can, however, remove the most toxic plants from your garden and make a note of any in your neighbors’ gardens that are potentially dangerous. List common and Latin names. This list may help your vet if poisoning is suspected.’

If you have indoor plants make sure you avoid certain species as plants like rubber trees are toxic to cats.

What plants are safe for cats?

There are some outdoor plants our feline friends simply adore, so why not treat them and grow a patch especially for them. Thanks to their natural occurring chemicals, many types of nepeta or catmint send our furry pals in to a non-toxic state of euphoria. 

Common valerian has a similar effect due to the actinidine present while Teucrium marum or Cat Thyme is a real favourite with a more select number. Closely related to the germander plant it has small grey-green leaves, fragrant pink blooms in summer and a musty scent. Happy in USDA zones 7b – 10b, it reaches up to 2-3ft high (61-91cm).

Depending on where you live, your spring flower beds may already be starting to look a little faded, but if you are wondering when to cut back daffodils, you will need to wait a little longer.

'While you can safely remove spent daffodil flowers as they die off, you should not cut back daffodil leaves just yet. Unlike deadheading, cutting back daffodils too early will damage the plant,' says Rachel Crow, Homes & Gardens' gardening expert. 

So, while you have already mastered how to plant daffodil bulbs in fall, now is the time to discover when to cut back daffodils in spring to ensure they return next year, as they will if treated properly.

When to cut back daffodils?

You can cut back daffodils only once the leaves have turned yellow. 'It's important to leave daffodils to die down naturally to put energy back into the bulb to produce the following spring's flowers,' continues Rachel Crow. 'If you cut the leaves back before they have turned yellow, you will not get any flowers next year.'

If you are looking for a more accurate timing for cutting back daffodils, the experts at the American Daffodil Society suggest that this will be 'from six weeks to six months, depending on where you live and the cultivars you grow.'

They clarify: 'Daffodils continue to absorb nutrients for about six weeks after the blooms have died. During this time they need plenty of sunshine and a regular supply of water. As daffodil bulbs are built, the leaves on the plant turn yellow and eventually die back.'

When should daffodils be deadheaded?

Daffodils can be deadheaded as and when the flowers die off. Doing this will help keep your flower beds looking neater and won't hurt the plants, though it won't encourage more flowering either. That said, if you see seedpods forming, remove them, since they will 'steal' energy that could be better directed back at the bulbs. 

Should I tie up daffodils before cutting them back?

You should not tie up daffodils while waiting for the foliage to yellow before cutting them back, as this will inhibit the leaves' absorption of sunlight and water. Instead, let them die back naturally. 

If you find the daffodils' yellowing leaves are spoiling the look of your flower beds, the best option is to surround daffodils with other spring plants that will hide the dying leaves.

Spring bulbs are a joyous sight, bringing life and color back to the garden after the long, cold months of winter.

There is a wonderful choice of flowering spring bulbs that will carry the floral display in your backyard all the way through the season into the colourful riot of summer, so they are one of the best backyard ideas. 

There are lots of ways you can add spring bulbs to your garden, whether they are used to plug the gaps in herbaceous borders as flower bed ideas, or planted in pots to enliven patios and courtyards. 

'Many spring bulbs will naturalize in turf, while ‘tulips, daffodils and most other bulbs do well in containers planted to 1 ½ times their depth,’ advises Guy Barter, chief horticulturist at RHS Garden Wisley.

'If you're feeling ambitious, you can can try planting layers of different bulbs, with perhaps Anemone blanda for early flowers, grape hyacinths for mid-season and late tulips for May,' adds Guy.

Best spring bulbs

If you can't bear to wait until spring for a burst of color, you could even learn how to force bulbs for a winter treat of the likes of hyacinths, grape hyacinths, narcissus or crocus.

1. Crocus

For spring bulbs to plant you can't go wrong with crocuses. These are one of the first bulbs to brighten up lawns and are excellent for naturalizing in grass. 

'Crocus like full sun, suiting rockeries, raised beds and turf where they can persist for many years, especially the large Dutch crocus. They are also charming for pots on sunny patios, too,' says Guy Barter.

Plant them in well-draining soil and let the foliage die back completely after flowering. 

Crocuses will multiply once established, so to propagate them, dig up large clumps in fall and split them into smaller ones.

2. Snowdrops – galanthus

With their dainty flowers that carpet gardens from late winter through to spring, snowdrops are available in myriad varieties.

Once you know how to plant snowdrops you can learn to recognize and enjoy their many different sizes, shapes, markings and colorings.

'Snowdrops grow well under deciduous trees and shrubs and can persist and spread,' explains Guy Barter.

 3. Alliums

Alliums make an amazing spring bulb for late spring into early summer displays, and come in shades from cerise and purple through to white. 

'They are reliably perennial and will bulk up well in most herbaceous borders,' explains Jess Evans.

A classic is Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’, which will flower around May and grow to about 40 inches (100cm) tall. 'They go well in a mixed herbaceous border or are often grown with roses as part of rose garden ideas,' Jess adds. 

'One of my favourite alliums is Allium cristophii. This has huge flower heads and stands at about 23 inches (60cm) tall. It is an almost metallic lilac color and the flower heads can be dried for winter decorations if they are cut and dried after the flowers have lost their color but before they start to drop,' she explains. 

She advises that due to the size of the flower heads they should be grown with plants that are low growing to get the best out of the flower head size. 

'Some of the taller flowering alliums tend to have long blue-green leaves that can look untidy, certainly as they begin to die down. To prevent this ruining a beautiful display in your garden, plant them further back into a border so that their leaves can be hidden by the other plants,' Jess says.

4. Daffodils – narcissus

A spring backyard would not be the same without the cheery nodding flowers heads of daffodils.

In the process of learning how to grow daffodils you'll become aware that they are among the easiest spring bulbs to grow, and also the huge variety there is to choose from – more than 25,000, if you're asking. They range from dwarf varieties lining pathways or brightening patios in containers, to giant daffodils planted en masse in beds and borders for real impact. 

'Daffodils bring the brightest and longest color to the spring garden. Fortunately they are also inexpensive and tolerate a wide range of conditions, although no bulb likes water-logged soil,' says Guy Barter.

Wonderfully obliging, daffodils are happy to grow just about anywhere.

'Extend the season with Narcissus cyclamineus, such ‘February Gold’ with later flowers from old pheasants' eye daffodils, Guy adds.

5. Tulips – tulipa

One of the most popular spring bulbs, it is worth every gardener learning how to plant tulip bulbs.

'It's wonderful to see tulips create a spectacular show in spring after all the planning and planting and hard work,' says Greg Ovenden.

At Pashley Manor Garden they plant later flowering bulbs for the Tulip Festival, but there are varieties that will flower from early through to late spring. Check the flowering period when buying them and make sure you get the longest flowering period possible.

'We always look at heights as we are planting to create the effects we want in the displays and we would always advise using top quality bulbs,' says Greg.

Among some of his favorites that he has included in displays over the years are:

• T. 'Queen of Night' – 'because it is such a lovely deep, velvety purple, almost black, and combines so well with other tulips – it goes well in with hot colored herbaceous flowers in reds and oranges, too'
• Tulipa 'Menton' – a classic shaped tulip that starts a pink and gradually blushes with salmon orange as it is in flower
• T. Firey Club – a deep red, slightly shorter variety that looks good at the end of long borders
• T. 'Angélique' – a romantic, pink peony-flowered tulip that is reliable and looks gorgeous in pots and in a rose garden
• T. 'White Triumphator' – an elegant, white lily flowered tulip

6. Fritillary – fritillaria

There are many different species of fritillaria that can be grown in the garden as spring bulbs. 

'One of the best known ones is the Crown Imperial, Fritillaria imperialis, which stands at around 30 inches (80cm) tall with a ring of yellow, orange or red flowers at the top,' explains Jess Evans.

'This one likes to be in a herbaceous border with good sun. it smells a bit foxy when it is in growth, which can put some people off, but the flower is definitely worth it,' she adds.  

Different fritillaries have different soil needs, so check the labels before planting them.

'One I have grown before alongside the Crown Imperial is Fritillaria persica. This one also likes sun and moist, free draining soil, so the two can grow well together. It has almost black bell-shaped flowers on a tall stem of about 80cm so contrasts well with the red or orange of the Crown Imperial ones,' advises Jess.

7. Snake's head fritillary – F. meleagris

Worthy of its own entry due to its beautiful flowers that can pepper lawns is the snake’s head fritillary. 

'They are possibly my favourite spring flowering bulb, the patterns on the petals are very intricate and detailed,' explains Jess.

The snake's head fritillary can be challenging to naturalize, but will like a damper soil. 

'While it can be naturalized into grassy areas or woodland garden style plantings, it can also be outcompeted so the grass or other plants need to be thinner or knocked back before the fritillaries will thrive,' Jess advises.

8. Dog’s tooth violets – erythroniums

Erythroniums, or dog’s tooth violets, are one of the loveliest spring bulbs to naturalize in your garden. 

'They will spread over years to create carpets in your borders. I particularly like Erythronium ‘Pagoda’, which is a little plant, up to around 8 inches (20cm) tall. The leaves are broad and can be marked with purple color markings, while the flowers have 5 reflexed yellow-green petals that stand up just above the leaves in April and hang downwards,' says Jess Evans.

Dog's tooth violets enjoy a slightly damper area in the garden with soil rich in organic humus so are well suited to a woodland garden type border. 'I would avoid planting them with too many other herbaceous plants so that they don’t get outcompeted, although they will handle some shade,' says Jess.

Jess also recommends the pink species Erythronium dens-canis 'which has a slightly more closed flower but is just as pretty.'

9. Lily – lilium

'Lily bulbs are expensive, but arguably the finest bulbs,' explains Guy Barter.

They do very well in pots of rich, peat free potting compost, and should be planted as early as they become available, he advises. 

Lilium henryii – Henry's lily – is a good choice.

'Keep pots where they can be inspected regularly to allow lily beetles to be dealt with,' adds Guy.

10. Hyacinths

These popular spring bulbs are prized for their impressive and fragrant spikes of flowers.

'Plant new bulbs every year or two to ensure a good display,' advises gardening writer Leigh Clapp.

Hyacinths are also ideal as potted plants and can be layered with other spring bulbs that flower at different times for 'lasagne planting', such as between tulips and daffodils.

'Wear gloves when planting hyacinths as they can irritate skin,' advises Leigh Clapp.

How to choose the best spring bulbs for your garden

You are spoilt for choice when it comes to flowering spring bulbs to plant. But bear in mind the weather and conditions in the zone where you live to try and carefully orchestrate a flowering bulb bonanza with a changeable display.

If you plan carefully and plant a succession of bulbs you can have a blooming display from late winter right through to summer.

To enjoy a burst of spring flowers, you need to plan ahead because spring bulbs must be planted in fall to early winter. 

'Bulbs are shipped when it's time to plant them, and choose varieties of early, mid and late-season bulbs to add color that will last until summer blooms take over,' advise the experts at American Meadows.

When buying bulbs from a nursery or garden center, check the flowering month to try and make sure you get the longest flowering period possible. 

'A challenge I really enjoy is trying to come up with a bulb planting scheme that will keep flowering for months but that will change color as the weeks go past,' says Jess Evans, head gardener at the National Trust's Knightshayes garden.

Different bulbs are planted at different depths, but generally three times their height, with the pointed growing tip facing upwards. 'In sandy soils go a little deeper to ensure bulbs find the summer moisture they need to thrive,' advises Guy Barter.

Make sure the beds are all well forked over before planting to make it easier to dig the holes. 

'Mulch the beds after planting, but before they start showing new growth  – especially if you mulch with manure, as it can burn the new tips of the foliage,' advises Greg Ovenden, head gardener at Pashley Manor Gardens.

If you're a busy or forgetful gardener, you will be pleased to know that a very great number and a fair range of well-grown potted bulbs are offered by nurseries and garden centers from January. 'These are generally inexpensive and can even be cheaper than buying and potting bulbs yourself in fall,' says Guy Barter.

'Some bulbs, such as snowdrops, aconites and anemones, don't like drying out and are also offered in leaf – ‘in-the-green’ – in the spring. Dried bulbs of these species can do well but bulbs in the green are preferable,' he adds.

When should spring bulbs be planted?

Spring bulbs should be planted in fall or early winter, between October to February depending on the variety. 

Order and plant your spring bulbs early. ‘Get them in before they start to shoot. If you can't plant bulbs soon after they are delivered, store them in a cool dark place until you are ready to plant them,’ advises Greg Ovenden.

When to plant spring bulbs will obviously differ slightly depending on the zone where you live. If you live in a cooler area, 'plant them by late September for the best results, although flowering of October planted bulbs is usually satisfactory. November planted tulips and hyacinths are also satisfactory and arguably better than earlier planted ones,' advises Guy Barter.

Which spring bulbs come back year after year?

Many spring bulbs, such as daffodil, narcissus, crocus, snowflakes, anemones, fritillaries and others, will naturalize in turf, coming back year after year,' advises Guy Bater.

Most bulbs are, by definition, are perennials, but you need to ensure that they enjoy the right soil, climatic and other conditions to perform well.

There are some bulbs that need lifting and storing, such as tulips, 'while the rest need clumps divided the replanted in the green,' advises gardening writer Leigh Clapp. 

'The dense clumps won’t flower as prolifically and may create large empty patches in your bed with they die down,' adds Jess Evans.

It is easy to learn how to divide plants to keep them healthy and fill your garden with color year after year.

Do you soak bulbs before you plant them?

You do not need to soak most bulbs before you plant them, although make sure the bulbs have not completely dried out or they will not take.

The exception to this is small anemone bulbs which should always be soaked before planting to soften them up, as it gives a much better chance of growth.

Some bulbs, such as snake's head fritillaries, need damp soil to thrive, but most will rot if they are left sitting in water. 

For large bulbs, such as tulips, try adding a scoop of grit into the bottom of the planting hole, to help drainage.  

Learning how to plant daffodil bulbs and grow daffodils is a must for any gardener who wants to see their backyard spring back into life when winter is nearing an end. The sight of masses of the cheery flowers is sure to lift your spirits. 

Among the most recognisable perennial bulbs, daffodils is the common name of the backyard forms of the genus narcissus, which has more than 50 species and 25,000 varieties.  

There are thousands of cultivars and great diversity in the shapes and colors of daffodils, from the common yellows, to pastel pinks and white.

There are many different forms of daffodil flowers, too, such as trumpet, large-cupped, single, double or split-corona – so why not try growing different varieties in separate areas of your yard as one of your flower bed ideas?

How to grow daffodils in your backyard

By carefully choosing and learning how to grow daffodils of different varieties, you can have early to late flowering blooms and enjoy the show from February through to May. 

The dwarf varieties look fabulous lining paths or in containers, while at the other end of the scale are giant daffodils with their golden nodding blooms that can create a big impact in beds and borders. 

‘When mixing daffodils, check the flowering heights to avoid the taller cultivars swamping dwarf cultivars,' suggests Becky Mealey, RHS horticultural advisor.

As a bulbous perennial, daffodils will keep coming back year after year and will slowly spread, so choose an area to plant them where you want them to naturalize. Planting snowdrops and daffodils with other spring bulbs in the same area can produce wonderful results.

What is the best month to plant daffodil bulbs?

You should plant daffodil bulbs from early fall. Like all flowering bulbs, if you are growing daffodils they need a cold period to develop their roots and get ready for spring. 

'Plant the bulbs when grounds have cooled, in some climates September and for warmer climates in November,' advise the experts at the The American Daffodil Society.

For a succession of varieties that flower at different times, you could plant a series of bulbs from late August to early November.  

‘September to October is the best time for planting narcissi, while the soil still has a bit of summer warmth. The flowering times are usually indicated on the packet or plant profiles,’ recommends Becky Mealey. 

If you can't wait until spring is nearing to enjoy these cheery flowers, then you could always learn how to force bulbs to enjoy them in the dead of winter, too.

Are daffodils easy to grow?

Daffodils are easy and fuss-free to grow. Narcissi can be grown in beds and borders, naturalized in grass, planted in pots or planters, and will keep coming back year after year with little care and attention needed.

Where to plant daffodil bulbs

Scattering bulbs and planting where they fall will give you a natural look in lawns, meadows, on banks or in beds. Bold drifts in beds and borders give impact, and clumps under trees with a cascade of blossom confetti look charming. They are also wonderful for filling gaps between shrubs and plants in herbaceous beds. This is definitely not a less is more flower. 

One of the most important points to remember where learning how to to grow daffodils is to choose a well-drained soil. 'Drainage is key,' agree the American Daffodil Society experts.

All varieties of narcissus prefer moderately fertile, well-drained slightly acidic soil, with most preferring sunny spots and some light shade. 

They need plenty of sunlight to grow, are tough, but hate getting their feet wet so don’t let them bathe in water in soggy soils as they will rot. One way to avoid this is by planting them on a bed of grit, 'as this prevents them sitting in water,' advises Monty Don in a video for Gardeners' World.

How to plant daffodil bulbs

A very important point to be aware of when learning how to plant daffodils is that the sap from the plants can irritate your skin, so wear gloves when planting the bulbs. 

Always choose firm, large daffodil bulbs and plant them deep enough that they are not affected by temperature variations. 

The rule is generally to dig your holes at least three times as deep as the bulb is high, using a hand trowel or bulb planter. 'Plant bulbs deeper in sandy soil than in clay,' advise the American Daffodil Society experts.

'When growing daffodils, you need to plant the bulbs deep because they will develop better, and also then there is less likelihood of you digging them up,' explains Monty Don.

Plant the bulbs deeper in lawns, at about 6 inches (15cm).

Place the bulb at the bottom of the hole with its pointy end up, spaced about 4-5 inches (10 to 12 cm) apart so they don’t compete for nutrients in the soil. 

Most bulbs will produce one to three flowers the first spring, however, 'if they do not bloom in one season, it might be best to move them to a new location,' says the American Daffodil Society.

How to grow daffodils from seed

Daffodils spread by producing seed and pollen, which is dispersed giving rise to new flowers and also by the bulb dividing and cloning itself after about three to five years.

If you want to try growing from seed, then rather than deadheading flowers, leave the seeds to ripen, sow them and then you will need to wait a few years before they flower.

Growing daffodils in containers

Growing daffodils as one of your container gardening ideas is straightforward, and they can be layered for a succession of blooms, or lasagne-planted with other spring bulbs that will flower at different times. 

To grow daffodils in pots:

• Make sure the container you choose is deep enough to accommodate the bulbs.
• Drainage is key, as bulbs will rot if water logged, so choose a container with drainage holes and put some gravel or broken pieces of terracotta pots at the bottom.
• Fill half the pot with loamless, peat-free compost, and spread the bulbs evenly over the surface, pointy end up.
• Space bulbs about 2 inches (5 cm apart), as they can be closer in a pot than in the ground to give a full look.
• Top up with compost and top-dress with mulch.
• It is a good idea to raise your pots on bricks or pot feet to ensure free drainage and air to circulate.
• Water them well, but do not feed the daffodil bulbs. 
• Keep the container in a dark, cool spot for about 12 to 15 weeks or bury the pot in the ground, then move it into a sunny but cool spot and water them.
• Once the leaves appear, move the container into direct sunlight but still in a cool spot, and water if dry.

‘My top tip for planting daffodil bulbs in a pot is to place the bulbs out like the face of a clock, starting with 12, 6, 3 and 9 to get your display all evenly spaced and looking good on all sides,’ says Becky Mealey. 

Layering the same or different varieties, or with other bulbs, two or even three layers, will prolong the display.

When the flowers fade on daffodils in containers, snip them off but let the foliage die down. They will continue to flower for about three years, but it's a good idea to remove the bulbs from the pot and replant them in the ground to make a fresh display for each spring.

How to care for daffodils

Easy to care for, daffodils will last for years and years. Preserve the strength of the bulb by deadheading spent blooms, nipping off at the neck behind the seedpod, and allowing the foliage to die down naturally. 

'Daffodils need lots of water,' says the American Daffodil Society experts, so keep them moist during the growing season and fertilize daffodils after flowering with a low nitrogen feed for a good show next year. 

If you have mastered the art of how to divide plants, you can lift and divide overcrowded clumps in late June or July, or in fall and replant straight away. 

If you are cutting blooms for vase displays, be aware that the sap is toxic and can make other flowers wilt, so display them separately to other blooms, or put them in water on their own for 24 hours, and then mix with other flowers in a vase.

Good companion plants for daffodils

Companion planting daffodils can create a wonderful display. Daffodils combine with the first of the tulips, contrast dramatically with violet muscari, bright blue scilla or iridescent hyacinths, and look attractive popping up through spring bedding, such as polyanthus, bellis and erysimum. 

Planting bulbs under deciduous trees is a natural choice. From glorious prunus and malus blossom to the range of magnolias, you are assured of a reliable and colorful display. 

Do daffodils grow back year after year?

Daffodils should grow back year after year. They will naturalize and the display will get better from one year to the next, making them great value bulbs to buy. 

'Daffodil bulbs should continue flowering year after year, so it's worth taking care when planting them,' explains Monty Don.

How to store daffodil bulbs

Daffodil bulbs can be stored anywhere cook, dry and out of direct sunlight and temperature fluctuations. This might be in a cellar, garage or even in a drawer in a cool room indoors.

Growing randomly in their natural settings as well as made-made environments, British wildflowers add sprinklings of bountiful colour and joy wherever they bloom.

Wildflowers are carefree, simple and abundant providing an ever-changing panorama of colours, shapes, sizes and textures. It is precisely the informal spontaneity of wild flowers – the random mingling of colours and species, and the way that they change through the seasons – that delights us. 

Learning how to identify wildflowers is essentially a question of simple observation combined with knowledge of plant structure.

• Also read How to identify British trees

How to identify wildflowers

1. Start with the flowers themselves

There are many flower types, differing in size, shape and colour, and flowers are possibly the most important part of a plant for identification. However, most flowers have the same basic parts. 

The arrangement of the female part (the pistil) and the male part (the stamen) is important in determining which family and genus the plant belongs to. 

Petals are also important in identification. Many plants have brightly coloured petals to attract pollinators, such as bees and butterflies. 

Behind the petals are smaller, green, leaf-like parts called sepals. These protect the flower when it is in the bud. In some species the petals are very small and insignificant, and the flowers are accentuated by showy, coloured modified leaves called bracts.

2. Look at the leaves

Almost as variable as flowers, leaves come in many different shapes and sizes. They are the plant’s food factories, where carbon dioxide and water are converted through the process called photosynthesis into sugar. 

This energy-rich sugar is the food used by most plants, and is also the basic foodstuff that helps support all other forms of life. As well as supplying food for the plant, photosynthesis provides the oxygen that we all breathe.

3. Study the stems

Plant stems carry the water and nutrients taken up by the roots to the leaves; the food produced by the leaves then moves along the stems to other parts of the plant. 

Stems also provide support, allowing the leaves to reach the sunlight they need to produce food. Stems may be very distinctively shaped and are frequently helpful in identifying plants.

20 common wildflowers in Britain

1. Meadow Buttercup

Meadow buttercup Ranunculus acris is a tall erect herb with smooth or slightly hairy flower stalks that are held high above the foliage. 

The lower leaves are strongly divided into three to seven lobes. They are toothed, hairy and occasionally marked with black, with none of the lobes stalked. 

The showy yellow flowers are to 20mm across, with five rounded, glossy petals, which are produced in great profusion from late spring to early autumn. 

2. Lenten Rose

Lenten rose Hellebore, Helleborus orientalis has smooth or slightly hairy stems with large, leathery, evergreen leaves which are mainly basal, divided into seven or nine lance-shaped segments with highly serrated edges and purple stalks. 

The branched flower stalks bear one to four nodding or outward-facing, saucer-shaped, unscented flowers, each 60–70mm across. T

he overlapping petals are cream tinged green flushed with purple, gradually changing to green following fertilization. The nodding, saucer-shaped blooms appear from late winter onward, before the new foliage. 

Photography / Alamy

3. Delphinium Larkspur

Delphinium Larkspur (Delphinium elatum) has large rounded leaves which are fairly deeply divided into five to seven or more coarsely toothed lobes. 

Each flower is 25– 40mm long and up to 25mm, with golden filaments in the centre and five petal-like sepals, the rear one elongated into a long, slender, curving spur; the two upper petals are united. 

Photography / Alamy

4. Love-in-a-mist

Love-in-a-mist Nigella damascena has short-stalked pale blue flowers which are 20–30mm across with a ring of small, finely divided leaves beneath. There are normally five perianth segments and numerous blue stamens.

Photography / Future PLC

5. Wood Anemone

Wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) is hairless and has upright flowering stems with a whorl of three leaves two-thirds up the stem. The large basal leaves appear after the flowers. The leaves are palmate, with toothed lobes.

Photography / Jonathan Buckley, Wood anemone available from Sarah Raven 

6. Alpine Clematis

Alpine clematis (Clematis alpina) leaves are divided into three segments, each with three, toothed leaflets. The flowers are usually solitary and nodding, with four perianth segments.

Photography / Alamy

7. Sweet Briar

Sweet Briar Eglantine (Rosa rubiginosa) is a vigorous, arching, prickly- stemmed, deciduous shrub. The leaves are dark green, with five to nine oval leaflets 25 -40mm long, with a finely- toothed margin. 

Cupped, single flowers up to 25mm across, usually bright pink, appear in early to midsummer, and are followed by oval to spherical, orange- scarlet hips in late summer.

Photography / Frank Hecker at Alamy

8. Field Poppy

Field Poppy or Common poppy (Papaver rhoeas) has erect or semi-erect with branching stems, which are sparsely bristled and exude a white sap when cut. The oblong, light green, downy leaves, 15cm long, are deeply segmented with lance-shaped lobes. 

Solitary, bowl-shaped, brilliant red flowers, sometimes marked black at the petal bases are borne on short, downy stalks from early to late summer. 

The flowers are followed by hairless, spherical seed capsules, which release the seed from an upper ring of pores which ripen from late summer to early autumn.

Photography / Future PLC

9. Maiden Pink

Maiden pink Dianthus deltoides is a shortly-hairy plant with prostrate shoots bearing short leaves and usually single flowers on erect, rough, tufted, green or grey-green stems. 

The flowers are 12– 20mm across with usually pink petals that are toothed with whitish spots. The leaves are linear-lanceolate, blunt on non- flowering shoots, pointed and narrower on flowering shoots.

Photography / Alamy

10. Primrose

Primrose Primula vulgaris has leaves which are egg-shaped to oblong, about 12.5cm long and 40mm across in the middle, smooth above with prominent, hairy veins and veinlets beneath, the margins are irregularly toothed, tapering into a winged stalk. 

The fragrant flowers are pale yellow with a darker centre and sepals forming a bell-shaped, pleated tube. They appear from late winter to late spring, each borne on a separate stalk.

Photography / Paul Quagliana for Future PLC

11. Heartsease or Wild pansy

Heartsease or Wild pansy (Viola tricolor) stems are generally very angular, erect to ascending and free branching. The leaves are deeply cut into rounded lobes, the terminal one being largest, with blunt tips and round-toothed margins; the upper leaves are lance-shaped to oval. 

The flat-faced flowers, 6–30mm across, vary a great deal in size and colour: they are purple, yellow or white, and most commonly a combination of all three. 

The upper petals are generally the most showy and purple, with the lowest and broadest petal usually yellow. The base of the lowest petal is elongated into a spur, as in the violet.

Photography / Future PLC

12. Sweet Violet

Sweet violet Viola odorata leaves are heart-shaped, with scalloped or slightly serrated edges, dark green, smooth and sometimes downy underneath. The flower stalks arise from the leaf axils from early spring to early summer, each bearing a single deep purple, blue to pinkish or even yellow-white bloom. 

The flower is five-petalled. The lower petal lengthens into a hollow spur beneath and the lateral petals have a hairy centre line.

Photography / Alamy

13. Large-flowered Orlaya

Large-flowered orlaya Orlaya grandiflora has a stem which is simple or branched and hairy at its base, but hairless elsewhere. The leaves are two to three times pinnate with oval segments; and the upper leaves are lobed. The flowers are white (or pink), the outer petals of the outer flowers are up to eight times longer than the others. 

Photography / Annaick Guitteny for Future PLC

14. Wood Forget-Me-Not

Wood Forget-Me-Not, (Myosotis sylvatica) has pale blue flowers with yellow centres which are borne on slender stalks that curl downwards towards the tips. The flat corollas are 6–10mm across.

According to plant expert Sarah Raven, 'Their botanical name, Myosotis, comes from the Greek mus (mouse) and ous (ear), due to the perception that the plant’s leaves are shaped like mouse’s ears.'

''As for the common name, forget-me-not, it is said to have come from a German legend in which a lover, while gathering the flowers fell into a river and cried ‘forget me not’ as he drowned.'

Forget-Me-Nots can also come with white, pink and striped petals, flowering from April to June.

Photography / Nigel Cattlin for Alamy

15. Foxglove

Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea) is rosette-forming and very variable, it has oval to lance-shaped, usually toothed, sometimes white, woolly, dark green leaves, 10 -25cm long. 

Tall stems with alternate leaves support one-sided spikes of purple, pink or white, inflated, tubular, bell-shaped, two-lipped flowers, to 60mm long, spotted maroon to purple inside, and produced in early summer. 

Photography / Future PLC

16. Daffodil

Daffodil Lenten lily (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) has thick, linear, mid-green, grass-like leaves, up to 20cm high, which appear at the same time as the flowers. 

The pale yellow flowers are usually solitary, held horizontally, and consist of six similar, yellow or white spreading perianth segments and a tubular golden-yellow corolla. 

Cultivated varieties of this species are widely planted and are naturalised in the wild, so distinguishing true wild populations can be difficult. 

The native plants always have a darker yellow flower tube and slightly twisted tepals, and the flowers are generally smaller and more nodding than in cultivated varieties.

Photography / Alun Callender for Future PLC

17. Snowdrop

Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) has narrow, linear to strap-shaped, blue-green leaves appearing at the same time as the flowers. The faintly honey- scented flowers are solitary, pendulous, to 20mm long, and appear in winter to early spring depending upon their location. 

The outer perianth segments are much larger than the inner ones, which do not spread on opening but form a cup containing the stamens; the inner perianth segments have a green patch towards their tip.

Photography / Marc Rosenberg for Future PLC

18. English Bluebell

English bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scriptus) is vigorous and clump-forming, with spreading, linear to lance - shaped, glossy, dark green leaves, 20–45cm long. 

In spring, one-sided racemes that bend over at the top bear 6–12 pendent, narrowly bell-shaped, scented, mid-blue, sometimes white, flowers, up to 20mm long, with cream anthers. 

Blooms appear (according to local climate and conditions) from mid- to late spring.

Photography / Mark Bolton for Future PLC

19. Ramsons

Ramsons Wild Garlic (Allium ursinum) is a common species of wild onion, found in damp, fertile woodlands across much of Europe, where it can form spectacular displays of gleaming white flowers in spring. 

Each bulb produces two or three elliptic-oval, up to 20cm long, leaves, and a single inflorescence with a terminal, more or less flat-topped head of starry white flowers. Individual flowers have six perianth segments.

Each flower is up to 25mm across. The whole plant smells strongly of garlic.

Photography / Crocus

20. Meadow Vetchling

Meadow Vetchling Lady’s Slipper (Lathyrus pratensis) is favored by farmers who encourage this slender, scrambling plant to grow in their meadows as the nodules on its roots fix nitrogen from the air into the soil and so increase the richness of the earth. 

With its typical bright yellow flowers, it also contributes to the food value of hay and it is rich in protein, particularly the seeds. The leaves are divided into a pair of leaflets measuring 10–30mm long and tipped with a tendril. 

Photography / Alamy

For further reading we recommend:

The World Encyclopedia Of Wild Flowers & Flora by Michael Lavelle & Martin Walters

Published by Lorenz Books

Our list of the best flowers to plant for Spring is all about optimism – and because we take serious note of everything Monty Don tells us. 2020 has – aside from the obvious – been the year for discovering new hobbies. From watching Gardener's World like hawks to baking sourdough from scratch and reinventing our entire homes, another one of the biggest pastimes that we have embraced in this most stressful of years has been tending our gardens.  

While gardening is often seen as being a fair weather hobby, the work doesn't necessarily stop when the temperature drops. In fact, winter is the ideal time to hone your newfound skills, as if you put the groundwork in now, so to speak, you can reap the rewards come springtime. 

But where to start? With Monty Don's advice (obviously) and this list of the bulbs and seeds that you need to plant up now to guarantee blooms in early 2021. By planting these now, they will have months to establish before the warmer weather kicks, ensuring a garden bursting with color and warmth.

The GardeningExpress.co.uk experts say: 'These colder months are the perfect time to be preparing the garden for the warmer climes of spring. By spending a little bit of time outside now, you’ll be able to reap the rewards and have a beautiful garden in just a few month's time. It’s important to choose the right bulbs to plant however, as only hardy bulbs, seeds and plants will survive the bitterness of winter.'

• Find out which are the best winter flowers to plant to guarantee color in your garden throughout winter

Best flowers to plant for Spring

Read on to discover the six flowers you need to plant now to ensure your garden is packed with color by spring.

1. Tulips

'November it is tulip-planting time,' says Monty Don in his latest blog. 'This is, to my mind, the most important and best job of the month. It is actually something that can be done at any time between now and Christmas although the earlier they get into the ground the earlier they will flower.

'The essential thing with all tulips is to make sure that they have good drainage. This matters less if they are to be treated as annuals and dug up after they have flowered but even so they will be happier with plenty of grit or sand added to heavy soil. If they are to be permanent it is important to plant them as deep as you can - I’ll often use a crowbar to make a hole 12 inches or more deep - and the deeper they are the stronger and straighter the stem will be.'

Flowering between March and May, tulips are very easy to grow from bulb. 

They need plenty of sunshine, though it's worth choosing a spot that is well sheltered from strong winds. They make ideal bedding plants and are great for planting in windowboxes and pots, too.

• Browse tulip bulbs to buy now

2. Daffodils

Often thought of as the ultimate spring flower, daffodils are a hugely popular bloom and are extremely easy to grow. 

Also known as narcissus, they come in many variations and color combinations range from pale cream to sunshine yellow. Bulbs should be planted in a sheltered spot, in full or partial sunshine.

• Browse daffodil bulbs to buy now

3. Crocus 'Ruby Giant'

Flowering in February, crocuses - along with snowdrops - are some of the earliest flowering plants of spring. They need full sun and a sheltered spot to grow to their best potential so they would work well in a sunny window box, too. 

• Browse Crocus bulbs to buy now

4. Primroses

These colorful, early blooming plants are perfect for planters and borders alike. You can grow them from bulb or seed and they're best placed in a spot that receives full to partial sunlight. Colors can vary from bright pinks to sunny yellows.

• Browse Primrose bulbs to buy now

5. Hyacinths

Deeply fragranced and are very bee-friendly, hyacinths flower from early to mid spring (and even earlier if you bring them indoors).

They won't flower unless they're placed in a spot that enjoys plenty of sunshine, and their soil should be kept moist. after flowering, be sure to cut the flower stalk off at the base so encourage repeat growth.

• Browse Hyacinth bulbs to buy now

6. Snowdrops

Along with crocuses, snowdrops flower very early in the year, even with frost or snow on the ground. They thrive in partially-shaded areas, especially around the base of trees, and with the right soil, with naturally multiply and spread out in drifts.

• Browse snowdrop bulbs to buy now

We are already looking forward to Spring – for all the obvious reasons – and with these blooms planted up, it will be even brighter! 

Thanks to Gardening Express for compiling this list.