Sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind. In gardening, as in many walks of life, tough love has long-term benefits. By pinching out the growing tips of plants in early summer, you’ll get bushier growth and more flowers later in the season.

Popular flowers like cosmos, dahlias, zinnias, chrysanthemums, and asters all benefit from being pinched out in June. It is a quick, easy job for your summer gardening checklist that you can do with your fingertips or a set of sharp pruning tools.

Pinching out plants might seem counterintuitive, but it is a vital way to get more flowers, better blooms, and stronger stems. It can even stop plants from getting leggy and flopping during the summer. For all those perfectly good reasons, here are 7 flowers to pinch out in June.

1. Dahlias

If left untouched, a dahlia will produce a single stem. It’ll be nice, but it could be much more. However, pinch out dahlias, and you’ll get more stems and more flowers. That’s what you want when you grow dahlias, strong plants with lots of stems covered in glorious blooms.

Don’t be afraid to pinch back the plants; it is what you want to do with dahlias in June, and the rewards are worth it. Not only do you get more flowers, but the plants overall will be sturdier and less prone to snapping.

Once the main stem of the plant reaches 12-16 inches tall and has three sets of leaves, pinch out the central growing tip above a set of leaves. You can use your fingers, but I prefer a pair of pruning snips to guarantee a clean cut.

These Fiskars pruning snips, available at Amazon, have a micro-tip blade for precise pruning jobs like this.

2. Cosmos

Cosmos are reliable, productive annual plants for any flower beds or container gardens. They’ll consistently have bright, saucer-shaped blooms. But why settle for that when you can ramp up that display even further by pinching out cosmos in early summer?

If you grow cosmos, these low-maintenance plants can be spurred into vigorous branching by being pinched out. Left to their own devices, cosmos can get leggy and just bloom at the top. Pinch them out, especially tall types of cosmos, and you’ll have bushier plants covered in flowers all summer long.

Pinch them out once they reach 8 to 10 inches all. Even if yours are a bit bigger, if you haven’t pinched them, do it ASAP this month. They recover quickly from being pinched, and you’ll see the first new side shoots appear within a week.

You can use a pair of gardening scissors to pinch out all kinds of annual plants, such as these Miracle-Gro steel garden scissors at Walmart.

3. Zinnias

Zinnias are popular, proven annuals to provide vivid pops of summer color. They are quick, easy flowers to grow, and pinching out zinnias can increase the number of blooms you get and the quality of the stems – ideal if you are growing zinnias for cut flowers.

Once the plants are 10-15 inches tall and have 2-3 sets of true leaves, that is the ideal time to pinch out the main stem above a leaf node. The plant will respond by quickly developing side shoots, meaning a bushier plant that can carry more flowers through summer and fall.

If your plant is a bit too tall, you can cut the stem back to the second set of leaves to encourage the plant to branch lower down and prevent the zinnia from getting too leggy.

4. Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums can get tall, leggy, and even flop over if they are not pinched. Taking the time to pinch the tips encourages a more compact habit and branching to carry more flowers in the fall.

You should start pinching chrysanthemums when they are around 6-8 inches tall, and then again when new stems reach the same length. June is the perfect time to start pinching when growing chrysanthemums, as the more side shoots you encourage, the more flowers you get to enjoy.

It would be a chrysanthemum mistake not to pinch, but you do also need to know when to stop. You can pinch plants until midsummer, then stand back and watch those glorious blooms burst from late summer through fall.

While you can simply use your fingers to pinch out stems, these gardening gloves available at Amazon have an innovative integrated thumb knife for quick pruning. They also have a protective sheath for added safety.

5. Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums, also known as bedding or tender geraniums, make fantastic summer plants for patio containers or hanging baskets. You can get pelargoniums in a wide range of colors, with lots of options when it comes to variegated, decorative, and fragrant foliage.

I am a fan of this Pelargonium citrosum, available at Amazon, that has a strong citrus fragrance and tooth-edged leaves.

There are bushy and trailing types of pelargoniums – the latter of which make great cascading plants for containers – and both can be encouraged to branch by pinching out the stems.

Once a plant reaches 6-8 inches, pinch or snip the tip above a node so the stem branches into many side shoots. You’ll end up with a bushier plant with many more flowers during the summer.

To keep the flowers coming for the longest possible time, it is advisable to deadhead geraniums throughout the summer. Remove the spent flower stems all the way back to their base with your fingers or a pair of snips.

6. Fuchsias

Hardy and half-hardy fuchsias both benefit from pinching out to create bushier plants with lots of flowering stems. Ideally, when you care for fuchsias, pinching out should start in spring and be done a couple of times before early summer.

However, if you are growing fuchsias and haven’t touched yours yet, there is still time to stimulate side shoots by removing the tips of shoots. You don’t want to pinch out after the end of June – so if you need to, make it a job for the coming days.

The new shoots usually develop quickly, within two weeks. If you have pinched yours, there will be an opportunity to pinch out the new soft shoots that have developed before the window closes. Fingers crossed you’ll have a bushy plant with lots of blooms to enjoy.

Although not a necessity, you can encourage the plants to bloom for longer by deadheading fuchsia plants through the summer.

7. Aster

Asters offer a valuable service in gardens. They come to the fore in late summer, when some other summer-blooming plants start to wane, and their bright daisy-like blooms brighten up fall beds and borders.

Some aster varieties get very tall, up to six feet. They can fall over and split during the season, which isn’t an attractive trait. To combat this, plants can be kept more compact and bushier by pinching them back in June.

If you are growing asters in large numbers in your borders and don’t fancy painstakingly pinching every stem, you can opt to cut back the plant’s overall growth by a third.

This technique, known as the ‘Chelsea Chop’, delays flowering, but you’ll get lots of flowers on shorter, sturdier plants than if you’d left your asters alone. You can do this with pruning shears or a pair of hedge shears, such as these Fiskars steel serrated hedge shears at Ace Hardware.

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June is a busy month, and there is almost always some pruning to be done somewhere in the garden. Our guide to plants to prune in June reveals seven such plants that will benefit from some TLC this month.

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Supporting tall or top-heavy perennial and annual flowers is a crucial task early in the season. Knowing when to support perennials and other flowering plants ensures you get your supports or stakes in place at the perfect time to keep them safe.

Acting fast in spring is always the best course of action, ideally when the flowering perennials are 6-12 inches tall. This is a crucial moment to support flowers, as it gives them time to grow naturally through the structure and avoids causing unnecessary harm, which can all too easily happen if you try to put supports in later.

To help you understand when to support perennials, I spoke to two gardening experts about the size plants should be when you put supports or stakes in place in spring, along with the potential damage you can cause if you do it too late. You’ll see why supporting perennials needs to be on your spring gardening checklist.

When to Support Perennials – This Is the Best Time

It is well-known that you need to support flowers early. Acting sooner in the season is always the best practice, as it prevents causing damage by trying to install supports further down the line. Early-season action to support flowers also helps hide the supports themselves in the flower bed.

Staking or supporting perennial plants is vital to prevent stems from dropping or flopping, especially under the weight of heavier blooms. It also stops stems from snapping during strong winds. While supports are important, you don’t want them to harm or take away from the plant’s beauty – an ideal support will aid but not stand out.

This is why Jessica Mercer, Horticulturist at Plant Addicts, advocates for putting supports in place in spring, while the plants are less than 12 inches tall.

‘It is better to install plant supports early because the stems grow up through them and hide the structure as they fill out,’ she says. ‘The support becomes part of the plant and distracts less from the view.’

If you support flowers near the start of the plant's active growth in the spring, it also makes it easier to train or tie stems as required. Aim for that critical period when the plant reaches 6-12 inches tall, when the fresh growth is more amenable.

‘At this stage, the shoots are still young and flexible, so they can be easily guided where needed,’ says Halina Shamshur, resident botany expert at Plantum. ‘Plants are also still relatively short, making them easier to manage.’

The message is clear. If you are growing tall, top-heavy, or thin-stemmed flowering plants to stake, including delphiniums, peonies, dahlias, sunflowers, black-eyed Susans, or asters, then get your supports in early in the season. It is an important time to keep them looking at their best and undamaged for the season ahead.

The Damage You Can Do by Putting Supports in Later

As mentioned, staking later in the season is not advisable, as trying to support flowers once they have put on lots of lush growth is not only more difficult but increasingly likely to damage roots, stems, and leaves.

Putting canes or supports into the ground once a perennial is established risks piercing the root ball. Halina Shamshur warns that installing supports at the wrong time can ‘seriously harm the plant’ and set it back, or even worse.

‘Driving a stake into the soil next to a well-developed plant can severely damage the root system,’ she warns. ‘The later you install a support, the larger the root system will be, and the greater the risk of harming major roots.’

When contemplating the worst-case scenario, Halina adds: ‘Significant root damage can even lead to plant death.’

It is not just the roots that are more at risk of damage, as Jessica Mercer foresees a greater likelihood of gardeners mistakenly ‘jabbing’ the support into bulbs or the crown, as they all expand during the season.

Those risks are all on top of damaging top growth in the form of flowers, leaves, and stems by wrestling with developed plants, trying to support plants during the prime growing season.

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FAQs

How Should You Support Flopping Flowers?

There are some flowers notorious for flopping, such as peonies, delphiniums, shasta daisies, and tall phlox. Ideally, any flowers are supported in early spring once the growth is under 12 inches. However, you can support them once they have flopped, provided they are not damaged. As Jessica Mercer from Plant Addicts warns: ‘Blooms that have been lying on the ground too long are often splashed with soil or damaged beyond any repair with staking.’

When flowers have dropped but aren’t too damaged, carefully lift them from the ground and add hoop supports, such as these metal plant supports at Amazon, taking care not to jab the it into the roots or the crown. Alternatively, individual stems can be gently tied to a carefully placed bamboo stake with string, soft twine, or soft plant ties (like these soft plant ties, also at Amazon).

When I worked in open gardens in the UK, it was common to build plant supports from hazel stems. These supports or cages looked natural and blended in with the foliage among the flower beds. If this inspires you, our guide to building hazel plant supports talks you through the process of making natural structures for your perennials or flowering climbers.

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A flower bed jam-packed with vivid early summer blooms sounds dreamy – a perfect start to the season. There are fast-growing flowers to plant in April to bring that vision to reality, and they are all super-simple to grow. If you want lots of flowers by early summer, these picks are for you.

The likes of alyssum, cosmos, gaillardia, nasturtiums, sunflowers, zinnia, and more can go from sowing to flowering in 10 weeks or less. If you sow seeds in April, you can look forward to beds or containers bristling with blooms come June.

For the last decade-plus, I have always grown flowers from seed. Whether it was for displays in the gardens I worked in, for cutting, or for my home garden, I always found immense joy in homegrown blooms. I have chosen seven of the fastest-growing flowers to plant in April, those that germinate fast and bloom in 6-10 weeks.

Where to Sow Fast-Growing Flowers

Whether you sow seeds indoors or outdoors will depend on your climate. If your soil has warmed to 50-55°F in April, you can sow many seeds outdoors and enjoy fast germination.

But those in milder climates are best sowing seeds indoors to get a head start. For each of these flowers to plant in April, I reveal some of my own sowing tips to help you have bustling flower beds or container gardens come early summer.

1. Sunflowers

Sunflowers are a classic summer flower. The mention of sunflowers may make you envision the quintessential bright yellow blooms, but you can find varieties with red, orange, or brown flowers.

Whether you grow statuesque sunflower varieties, dwarf sunflowers for pots, or something in between, they are show-stopping and one of the fastest-growing flowers to plant in spring.

Germinating in around a week in ideal conditions, and going from sowing to blooming in 8-10 weeks, plant sunflower seeds in April and you’ll be enjoying their flowers in early summer.

I have always started growing sunflowers indoors in early spring. As a half-hardy annual, it protects the seedlings from late frosts and cold snaps. Sow the seeds in small pots – biodegradable pots (like these Jiffy biodegradable pots on Amazon) are a great solution as they reduce root disturbance when you transplant seedlings.

If your soil has warmed enough this month, sow sunflower seeds in half-inch deep drills and try to space them 4-6 inches apart. Covering them with a cut recycled plastic bottle as a DIY cloche creates a mini greenhouse and stops slugs or snails from nibbling the seedlings.

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Amazon

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Walmart

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Burpee

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at True Leaf Market

2. Zinnias

Zinnias are bright, cheery flowers that come in a variety of dazzling colors to uplift beds, borders, or pots. There are zinnia varieties in countless shades to bloom from early summer through to the first frost. As half-hardy annuals, you need to decide when to plant zinnia seeds carefully. Choose well, and your zinnias can potentially start blooming in 8-12 weeks.

An important point to remember when growing zinnias is that they dislike root disturbance. As many gardeners won’t be able to sow outdoors this month, because zinnias need the soil temperature to reach 60ºF to germinate, biodegradable pots are crucial to prevent troubling the roots when transplanting.

Fill the containers with a quality potting mix and place them in a greenhouse or warm windowsill where they can enjoy temperatures of 68-75°F. A heated propagator or heat mat (you can get a seed starting heat mat at Walmart) may be required to ensure good, speedy germination.

If your soil is warm enough in April, and the risk of cold snaps has passed, sow seeds a quarter-inch deep and 10-12 inches apart in the ground. When the seedlings reach 10 inches, pinch out your zinnias to encourage branching and more flowers.

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Amazon

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Walmart

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Burpee

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Botanical Interests

3. Nasturtiums

What is there not to love about growing nasturtiums? They look stunning, nasturtium varieties come in a kaleidoscope of colors, they are really easy to grow, the whole plant is edible, plus they are great for companion planting and keeping unwanted pests off your other flowers or vegetables. Can you tell I am a fan?

Add to that the fact that nasturtiums germinate reliably and grow fast. In ideal conditions, you’ll see the sprouts appear in a week, and the first flowers can be enjoyed 6-8 weeks from sowing. You can appreciate nasturtium blooms from summer into the fall.

Gardeners can plant nasturtium seeds directly into the garden after the frosts, once the soil temperature reaches at least 55°F. Sow them an inch deep and at least six inches apart, thinning to 10-12 inches once they germinate.

To grow the easy edible flower from seed indoors, fill three-inch biodegradable pots with potting mix and sow two seeds per pot. Put the pot in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill, and the seeds will germinate quickly at 55-65°F. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, and harden off the seedlings before planting them outside later in spring.

Many gardeners recommend soaking seeds for a few hours before planting their nasturtiums. It is not something I have done myself, and I still enjoyed good results. But it is worth experimenting with, as soaking seeds can speed up germination.

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Amazon

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Walmart

See the range of nasturtium seeds at True Leaf Market

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Botanical Interests

4. Marigolds

Marigolds are easy-to-grow annual plants you can grow in borders or pots to brighten up any space. They germinate quickly and bloom in bright shades of orange, gold, or red for many months. As great plants for pollinators and perfect flowers to plant in a vegetable garden to deter pests, they are great additions to any yard.

Gardeners can start marigold seeds indoors in April by filling seed trays or modules with a good potting mix and lightly covering them with a thin layer of more soil or vermiculite. The seeds will sprout in a week at temperatures of 70-75°F in a greenhouse, propagator, or on a warm windowsill.

In warmer gardens, the annual can be sown directly into half-inch drills, covered, and kept moist. Direct-sown marigolds may need protection from slugs and snails, either by using physical barriers (sharp materials like gravel or broken eggshells discourage them) to stop slugs from destroying plants, or by using beer traps (you can get slug and snail traps at Amazon) as a form of slug control.

See the range of marigold seeds at Amazon

See the range of marigold seeds at Walmart

See the range of marigold seeds at Burpee

See the range of marigold seeds at True Leaf Market

5. Gaillardia

Also known as blanket flower, gaillardia is a fast-growing flower choice for filling borders with exuberant orange, red, yellow, or white flowers. They take 6-8 weeks to start flowering and continue to do so from early summer through to late fall.

Most varieties of gaillardia are native plants that attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators throughout the blooming season – making them a great choice for a wildlife garden.

Direct sow gaillardia seeds in the garden after the last frost. These seeds need light to germinate, so it is as simple as clearing weeds from your chosen spot, raking the soil level, and scattering the seeds over the surface. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, and the seeds should reliably germinate.

The alternative is to plant the seeds indoors in April. Sow them onto the surface of trays, modules, and individual pots and keep them warm and moist. At temperatures of 70-75°F, gaillardia seeds should germinate within two weeks.

Once the plants start blooming, deadhead blanket flowers regularly to give yourself and your garden wildlife the longest-lasting display to enjoy.

See gaillardia seeds at Amazon

See gaillardia seeds at Walmart

See gaillardia seeds at True Leaf Market

See gaillardia seeds at Botanical Interests

6. Alyssum

Alyssum, also commonly called sweet alyssum, is a fast growing tiny flower that develops carpets of blooms within 9-12 weeks from sowing. It is an easy-to-grow annual with a sweet scent and masses of blooms, most often they are white, but you can also get pink and purple varieties.

Alyssum often makes a great choice for a plant to edge a flower bed with, or to grow alongside garden paths to spill over onto the hard landscaping. As well as looking highly decorative, alyssum also makes an attractive, fast growing ground cover to smother weeds while also attracting pollinators.

In early spring, sow alyssum seeds indoors or outdoors, depending on your climate. If you still have a risk of frosts, sow indoors as the seeds will germinate very quickly in warmer conditions.

Alyssum seeds are tiny and need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with any soil. They want 55-70°F for speedy germination, and can be transplanted outside after the frosts.

See the range of alyssum seeds at Amazon

See the range of alyssum seeds at Walmart

See the range of alyssum seeds at Burpee

See the range of alyssum seeds at True Leaf Market

7. Cosmos

Cosmos are hugely popular summer flowers, and for good reason. I have grown them year-after-year, hence their spot in this list of the top flowers to sow in April.

Let’s quickly rattle off some great traits about growing cosmos; they are easy-to grow, flower in 10-12 weeks from sowing, and continue to bloom for long periods of time. Gardeners can pick between types of cosmos in many bright colors, and the blooms make great cut flowers as they offer a long vase life. It all sounds good, right?

Plant cosmos seeds indoors in April if your soil temperature is below 60°F, as it will not germinate happily in colder soils. You’ll get much better success planting seeds indoors this month, and transplanting the seedlings outdoors once the soil warms.

Sow cosmos into trays, modules, or pots and sow the small seeds a quarter of an inch deep. For strong germination, use a greenhouse, propagator, or warm windowsill, where the seeds can get a temperature of 64-75°F, and keep the soil consistently moist.

When your plants reach 6-10 inches tall, pinch out cosmos to encourage lots of sideshoots and a prolific display of summer flowers. And to keep cosmos blooming, the secret is deadheading throughout the summer.

See the range of cosmos seeds at Amazon

See the range of cosmos seeds at Walmart

See the range of cosmos seeds at Burpee

See the range of cosmos seeds at True Leaf Market

See the range of cosmos seeds at Botanical Interests

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If you are in search of more monthly planting inspiration, we’ve got you covered. You can see our guide on native perennials to plant in April to add more flowers to your garden for years to come, or check out this on fruits to plant in April for a garden full of homegrown fruit to enjoy straight from the tree or bush.

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Edible flowers have soared in popularity in recent years. They are no longer confined to fine dining, as home gardeners are enjoying the trend of adding them to salads, using them in cocktails, or garnishing with edible flowers. Here, I highlight some of the easiest edible flowers to grow from seed, helping you get in on the trend.

My experience with edible flowers goes back many years. I have grown edible flowers for restaurants in several different gardens throughout my career. I grew and carefully picked blooms for a Michelin-star restaurant, eateries at the renowned Soho Farmhouse, and in historic public gardens.

There is a great variety of plants you can grow for blooms and use in a variety of ways, from topping cakes to stuffing and frying. And you can be enjoying homegrown edible flowers in just a few months. I have picked some of my easiest edible flowers to grow from seed, many of which you can sow in late winter and start picking in spring or early summer. I even include some professional sowing tips to get you started.

1. Nasturtiums

Nasturtiums are the most popular edible flowers I have ever grown for restaurants, and I have spent many an hour selecting and carefully picking perfect-looking nasturtium flowers to adorn plates.

The flowers taste sweet and floral, with a slightly peppery note, but are not as spicy as the leaves (which are also edible). You can add the flowers whole to salads or use any of the range of bright nasturtium varieties to add a bold splash of color as a garnish.

As well as being wholly edible plants, another plus point for nasturtiums is that they rank among the easiest flowers to grow from seed. You can plant nasturtium seeds indoors in late winter or early spring for the earliest blooms, and sow throughout spring and summer.

I have always found it is better to sow seeds indoors, as slugs and snails love to nibble the seedlings as they emerge in late spring and summer. The seeds germinate reliably in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill and develop quickly once planted outside.

Alaska Mix is one variety I had success with, and this heirloom variety produces a range of flower colors. You can get packets of Alaska Mix nasturtium seeds at Burpee.

2. Calendula

Calendula flowers have a slightly peppery flavor and can add color and an extra layer to salads, soups, salsas, and quiches. The petals can also adorn cakes as decorations or be added to ice cubes to give color in cocktails.

One key thing to remember with calendula is that you ideally want to remove the petals individually to use, as the base of the flower head is bitter.

If you want to grow any of the wide range of calendula varieties out there to enjoy the bright blooms in sweet or savory dishes, you can start sowing seeds indoors 4-6 weeks before your last frost.

The seeds germinate reliably quickly, and you can transplant seedlings outdoors after the last frost. Alternatively, you can sow seeds outdoors in spring where they are to flower.

Calendulas often start blooming only a few weeks after planting young seedlings outdoors. Regular deadheading throughout the season will encourage the plant to keep flowering for a longer blooming period.

For a stunning variety, try this Pacific Beauty Blend of calendula seeds at Botanical Interests. The combination of gold and orange flowers will look great, attract pollinators, and add glorious color as decorations.

3. Violas

Violas are another edible flower I have vivid memories of, tirelessly examining the blooms to pick the perfect ones to send to the chefs. These fast-growing flowers thrive in the cooler weather and can bring early and late color to flower beds or containers.

Viola flowers can be added to salads or used as a garnish. They have a sweet flavor and crisp texture. It is also common for the blooms to be candied and used as cake decorations, or frozen in ice cubes to add to cocktails.

You can start growing violas in late winter/early spring or late summer/early fall. To propagate violas from seed earlier in the year, sow them 6-8 weeks before your last frost into trays or modules filled with a soil for starting seeds.

They are very fine, so sow them onto the surface and cover with a fine layer of soil or vermiculite. Keep them warm (60-70°F) and plant them outdoors after the last frost.

For a compact, durable viola to grow in beds, pots, or hanging baskets, the Sorbet Series makes a great choice. You can get Sorbet Series viola seeds at True Leaf Market. This series is commonly used as edible flowers by chefs.

4. Zucchini

Most gardeners only grow zucchini for the fruit, but you can also harvest zucchini flowers to stuff or fry, or add to soups or salads. They are a delicacy, with a delicate, mild flavor and a soft texture.

You can start growing zucchini, sometimes known as summer squash, by sowing seeds indoors around a month before your last frost date. They are tender plants, so don’t rush things, as when planted outside, they do grow quickly and prolifically. The plants are reliable and high-yielding, so you should not be short of edible flowers to pick.

The first flowers should start to open around 50 days after sowing zucchini seeds. Male flowers appear first and are more plentiful than female flowers. The male flowers are attached to the plant by a thin, hairy stem and don’t develop fruit, so they are best for picking.

Pick the blossoms early in the morning by snipping them from the plant with pruning shears, garden snips, or a sharp harvesting knife, with a half-inch of stem attached. Handle them carefully, keep them out of direct sunlight to avoid wilting, and use them within 24 hours.

Black Beauty is a classic, popular zucchini variety because it is a prolific plant that grows lots of fruits with deep green skin. You can get packets of Black Beauty zucchini seeds at Amazon to start sowing in spring.

5. Borage

Borage is a herb that produces delicate star-shaped blue flowers from early summer through fall.

These blooms are edible and have a mild cucumber flavor and a succulent texture that works well as a garnish for both sweet and savory dishes. Borage flowers also make an excellent addition to summer drinks, or the blooms can be added to salads.

You can start growing borage in spring after the last frost for your location. The herb doesn’t like being transplanted, so you enjoy more success by sowing it directly into a sunny spot in the yard. You can sow in rows or disperse it over an area, just make sure to lightly cover the seeds and keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged.

As well as being fabulous for edible flowers, borage is also a great plant for pollinators, especially bees that love the nectar-rich blooms.

You can get packets of borage seeds at Burpee to sow outdoors in spring.

On top of sowing some of the easiest edible flowers to grow, you can also plant many other flower seeds in late winter and early spring to fill your garden with glorious blooms.

For example, this guide to flowers to sow in February features seven plants you can start indoors in late winter for earlier blooms come spring and summer. It includes sweet peas, alyssum, asters, cornflower, and more.

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You can make a great head start on summer blooms by sowing flower seeds in February indoors. It may be too soon to sow outdoors in most climates, but there is a great selection of flower seeds to sow in February, as popular flowers like alyssum, asters, larkspur, sweet peas, and more can be started in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill this month.

Sowing flowers indoors now means strong plants ready to go outside once the last frosts have passed. You get a great combo of healthy plants and earlier blooms, with lots of flowers for you and the local wildlife to enjoy sooner than if you’d waited to sow once the soil has warmed. If you find yourself wondering what to plant in February, the answer definitely needs to include flowers.

I have always sown flower seeds early in the year to get ahead, whether they were for formal displays in gardens I worked in, cut flowers to send to restaurants or sell to garden visitors, or just to enjoy at home. Not only is seed sowing a wholly satisfying experience in late winter, but the rewards of starting early make any effort worthwhile. Here are my picks for seven flower seeds to sow in February.

1. Alyssum

Alyssum is a classic half-hardy annual that can be used as a fragrant ground cover plant or for soft displays in containers. Producing a cloud of gentle, white flowers throughout the summer, it is a reliable, low-maintenance plant that is simple to grow from seed indoors.

Start sowing seeds indoors in February. It may sound early for a summer-flowering annual, but it is good to get ahead with alyssum, as the seeds can take up to four weeks to appear.

Gently sow the seeds onto the surface of the seed compost, and cover lightly with vermiculite. Don’t cover seeds thickly, as alyssum seeds need light to germinate.

Give the seed temperatures of 50-60°F and keep the soil moist, but, as mentioned, don’t get disheartened if you don’t see seedlings appearing quickly.

It can take a while. Transplant the seedlings into individual pots once they are large enough to handle, and plant them outside after the last frost.

You can get snow alyssum seeds at Burpee to sow for carpets of crisp, white blooms

2. Asters

Asters, often called Michaelmas Daisies, come to the fore in late summer, with their bright daisy-like blooms bringing dazzling color and continuing through cooler months. They will make great plants for fall pollinators if you want to attract wildlife to your beds throughout the seasons.

There are many aster varieties, in a wide range of colors and sizes, many of which can be grown from seed as a budget-friendly alternative to buying container plants. And they are among the flower seeds to sow in February, to give the plants plenty of time to build up strength and put on a cracking summer and fall show.

Start sowing aster seeds six to eight weeks before your last frost. Sow the seeds 1/8 inch deep into trays or pots filled with a good seed compost, and place the container in a heated propagator or on a heat mat (you can get a heat mat at Amazon to provide essential warmth to your seeds), where the seeds can enjoy consistent temperatures of 65-75°F.

In ideal conditions, the seeds should germinate within 10-14 days. Continue to grow them in a warm, bright spot, and consider using LED grow lights if the natural levels are low. Plant them in a sunny position after the last frost for your climate.

You can get a cool mix of single-flowered China asters at Botanical Interests for cut flowers in shades of red, pink, purple, and white

3. Cornflower

Bachelor's buttons, also known as cornflowers, are delicate wildflowers with tiny ruffled petals that sit atop thin stems. Most commonly recognized for their blue flowers, there are also varieties that produce pink, white, and dark red blooms.

While they are perfect for wildflower gardens, bachelor's buttons also work well in cottage garden ideas, where they add a delicate touch of color and the flowers attract bees and butterflies.

A common way to grow bachelor's buttons is to sow seeds outdoors once the soil has warmed up. However, you can get ahead of the season and sow indoors in February to benefit from earlier blooms.

To do this, sow the seeds onto the surface of modules or pots filled with seed compost, and give them only a light covering of more soil or vermiculite (get a bag of organic vermiculite at Burpee). The seeds will germinate within two weeks at temperatures of 60-70°F.

You can get a mix of cornflower blooms to enjoy with this packet of mixed color Bachelor Buttons seeds at Amazon.

4. Impatiens

Impatiens are popular annual bedding plants and make excellent shade plants for beds, containers, and hanging baskets. If you are after compact part-shade annuals to brighten up slightly darker corners of the yard, impatiens can do just that with their vibrant red, pink, purple, or orange blooms.

You commonly get impatiens as small plants, but it can be cost-effective to grow impatiens from seed. This isn’t difficult to do, but it does require patience as they are slow-growing. It makes the first half of February the best time to start seeds indoors.

Impatiens seeds are tiny, so you must sow them carefully. Do so on the surface of modules or individual pots and lightly press them into the material.

The seeds need light, so cover thinly with soil or vermiculite. Place the containers in a propagator in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill where they can reach temperatures of 70-75°F.

After the seeds germinate, which should take a few weeks, grow the seedlings somewhere warm (they still want temperatures of 60-65°F) and bright. Plant them outdoors after the last frost. Remember to deadhead impatiens for a long-lasting display of blooms.

You can get a great mix of impatiens seeds at Burpee for bright flowers to enjoy

5. Larkspur

Larkspur is a traditional cottage garden plant. Its tall, bright stems bring height and interest to flower beds. But that flowering spike also makes it a useful cutting garden flower, and it can be a great flower for drying.

Larkspur is undoubtedly stunning and versatile, but it has a reputation for being tricky to germinate. Luckily, we are here to attempt to dispel that myth.

Larkspur seeds need a period of cold stratification, which is one hurdle to overcome. You can do this by sowing them in the fall, and use the winter cold to your advantage. Or, you can artificially stratify the seeds by popping them in the fridge for a week or two before sowing.

After their spell in the refrigerator, sow the seeds onto trays or pots and cover with a fine layer of compost or vermiculite. For the greatest chance of success, sow them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, rather than a warm environment, as larkspur prefers cooler temperatures for germination.

You can get a 'shades of blue' mix of Larkspur seeds at Botanical Interests for a glorious collection of dark and light blue blooms

6. Nicotiana

Nicotiana, also known as flowering tobacco, is a dramatic ornamental plant that adds color and structure to summer flower borders. The annual plants produce tall bunches of fragrant trumpet-like flowers that can come in a variety of colors from bright pink to lime green.

Growing nicotiana is fairly simple, as they are among the easiest flowers to grow from seed. Starting in February, the fine seeds are sown onto the surface of compost and covered with a fine layer of more soil or vermiculite. A temperature of 60-68°F is ideal, and the seeds can take up to two weeks to germinate.

The seedlings should be pricked out carefully and potted into their own containers once they are large enough to handle. Keep the plants consistently moist, but not waterlogged, and plant them outdoors (after a period of hardening off seedlings) once the temperatures warm in the spring.

This mixed packet of nicotiana seeds at True Leaf Market can be sown for blooms in shades of pink, purple, red, and white

7. Sweet Peas

Gardeners around the globe adore growing sweet peas. It is understandable why people love these nostalgic plants. They are easy to grow, bloom prolifically, can be intoxicatingly fragrant, and there are literally hundreds of sweet pea varieties to pick from.

Traditionally, you can plant sweet peas in the fall or spring. However, if you haven’t done it yet, February makes an ideal time to sow them indoors. Do it this month, and you have healthy plants ready to go out into the garden come spring.

It is advantageous to soak the seeds for 24 hours to soften their hard exterior, which helps to speed up the germination process. Another good tip is to use deep pots or root trainers (such as these deep root trainers at Amazon), as sweet peas quickly produce roots.

This avoids a common sweet pea seedling problem of being restricted during the early stages, which affects growth at a vital time in the plant’s life.

Plant sweet pea seeds a half-inch deep into the compost and place the trays or pots in an unheated greenhouse, cold frame, or on a bright windowsill inside the home. Pinching out the central tip of seedlings when they are 4-6 inches tall will encourage bushy plants.

You can get a range of sweet pea seeds at Amazon to suit any desires

To help you plan the rest of your month in the yard, this guide to February gardening jobs includes nine key tasks to get done, as recommended by an experienced professional horticulturist.

Shop Flower Seeds to Sow in February

Just like birthstones, birth month flowers offer a unique floral fingerprint for every individual. While we all have our garden favorites, these specific blooms carry a deeper symbolic connection to the time of year we were born.

Just like birth stones, each month of the year has a birth flower, or rather birth flowers as there are two for each month.

Maybe you’re looking to plant a living autobiography in your flower beds or design a meaningful memory garden. Perhaps you're just looking for a unique touch for your flower beds with a bloom to represent each month of the year. Here, we outline birth month flowers for every month, with advice from flower growing experts on how to grow them successfully.

What Are Birth Month Flowers?

The history of birth month flowers is actually a little uncertain. Some sources suggest the tradition of birth month flowers dates back to ancient Roman times.

The practice of floral symbolism found its true footing in the Victorian era. During this time, the language of flowers allowed people to communicate secret sentiments through carefully chosen stems.

Much like zodiac signs, they're now popular symbols of personalization. This makes them great cut flowers for a home decorated according to your zodiac sign, or they can be used to enhance the ethereal feel of fairy gardens and moon gardens.

The birth month flowers are:

• January: Carnation and snowdrop
• February: Iris and violet
• March: Jonquil and daffodil
• April: Daisy and sweet pea
• May: Lily of the valley and hawthorn
• June: Honeysuckle and rose
• July: Larkspur and waterlily
• August: Poppy and gladiolus
• September: Aster and morning glory
• October: Cosmos and marigold
• November: Chrysanthemum and peony
• December: Holly and narcissus

How To Grow Your Own Birth Month Flowers

Just like planning a cut flower garden, you need to determine a few factors before jumping in and growing birth month flowers.

For example, not all of the birth month flowers will grow well across every US hardiness zone. Likewise, different flowers will need to be planted at different times of year.

That being said, here are our expert tips for growing birth month flowers.

January: Carnation and Snowdrop

Carnations are classic springtime flowers. They're perfect for cottage garden styles and can be grown either annuals or perennials.

Snowdrops are just as impressive. There are so many types of snowdrops to grow, offering lots of choice for a range of backyard aesthetics. They're brilliant as winter flowers for pots and they're often the perennials associated with the first sign of spring.

Tips for Growing Carnations

• US hardiness zone: Zone 5 to zone 10
• Flowers in: Late spring to summer
• Plant in: Sow seeds indoors in spring around two months before the last frost, or sow seeds outdoors in late summer.
• Position: Full sun to partial shade. Make sure to use well-draining soil, like this potting mix for flowers from Amazon.

Tips for Growing Snowdrops

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 7
• Flowers in: Mid winter to early spring
• Plant in: Plant snowdrop bulbs between August and November, or plant snowdrops 'in the green' in spring once blooms have faded.
• Position: Partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. They're ideal as ground cover plants for shade, brightening up the ground beneath trees in your yard.

February: Iris and Violet

Whether you opt for one of the best bearded iris varieties or the best non-bearded iris varieties, these are stunning perennial plants that will return year-on-year with their elegant petals.

Likewise, violets are versatile perennials that can be used in container gardens or borders. 'Depending on your hardiness zone, they are great candidates for succession planting to keep flowers year-round,' says Christen Waddell, gardening expert at Blackberry Farm.

'After they have gotten established, pluck the flower heads daily to encourage the plants to grow and spread out,' she advises.

Tips for Growing Irises

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Early spring to summer
• Plant in: Grow irises by planting bulbs between September and November.
• Position: Full-sun in well-drained soil. Some varieties tolerate partial shade, and you should opt for a sheltered position to protect their tall stems from wind damage.

Discover the iris collection available at Nature Hills.

Tips for Growing Violets

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Spring
• Plant in: Grow violas by sowing violet seeds in early spring indoors or in a cold frame. If you're growing a species that needs a period of cold for seed stratification, sow seeds in fall in a sheltered spot.
• Position: Partial shade in damp soil with good drainage. These flowers are perfect as woodland plants and work well in garden shade areas.

March: Jonquil and Daffodil

Although they look similar, due to both belonging to the narcissus genus, jonquil and daffodil are actually two different perennials with slightly different care needs.

Jonquil comes in shades of yellow and white, and is most loved for its sweet scent. It's a valuable addition to fragrant gardens for this reason. Typically, jonquils are smaller than daffodils.

With a similar appearance, but arguably showier blooms, daffodils are some of the most classic varieties of narcissi bulbs to grow. There are also plenty of plants that complement daffodils to choose from when planting these flowers in your yard. Just remember to deadhead daffodils to encourage new blooms.

There are plenty of jonquil and daffodil bulbs available at Burpee.

Tips for Growing Jonquils

• US hardiness zone: Zone 4 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Late winter to spring
• Plant in: Plant bulbs in fall when the ground has started to cool.
• Position: Full sun to partial shade. It's best to plant in well-draining, fertile soil in pots or the ground.

Tips for Growing Daffodils

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Late winter to spring
• Plant in: Plant daffodil bulbs in fall when the ground has cooled down.
• Position: Full sun in fertile, well-draining soil. Many gardeners enjoy planting daffodil bulbs in lawns to add a pop of color.

April: Daisy and Sweet Pea

English daisies, or lawn daisies, are actually widely considered weeds, cropping up in lawns unexpectedly.

However, there is no denying their white blooms are beautiful and bring a sense of nostalgia for those of us who made daisy chains in our childhood. There are also other types of daisy that offer bigger blooms - like gerbera daisies. Discover the range of daisies available at Nature Hills.

Meanwhile, annual sweet peas are some of the most fragrant flowers you can grow. 'With their seductive fragrance, sweet peas make great flowers for gardens,' says flower growing expert, says Lisa Fontanarosa.

'Despite their delicate look, sweet peas are quite hardy,' she adds. There are plenty of sweet pea varieties you can choose from and they can even be trained to climb a trellis.

Tips for Growing English Daisies

• US hardiness zone: Zone 4 to zone 10
• Flowers in: Spring to early fall
• Plant in: You can sow English daisies, or lawn daisies, directly on lawns in spring or fall.
• Position: Full sun to partial shade. These flowering weeds for pollinators self-seed, so you're likely to see them crop up elsewhere in your lawn and return next year.

Tips for Growing Sweet Peas

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 8
• Flowers in: Summer
• Plant in: To grow sweet peas, sow seeds directly in the ground in cool weather during spring or fall. You can also sow them indoors and then plant them out in mid-spring.
• Position: Full sun. Sweet peas do best in a well-draining soil type that is moisture retentive, as they won't cope well with drying out completely.

May: Lily of the valley and Hawthorn

'I was delighted to find out my birth month flower is lily of the valley, Convallaria majalis, as these delicate, diminutive perennials are among my absolute favourite flowers,' says H&G's Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull. 'I don’t have to do anything to help them grow; they seem to have found their ideal spot. They may be tiny, but they are surprisingly resilient,' she adds.

Hawthorns are just as beautiful. They're often used as hedging plants, but are also popularly grown as flowering trees. See this White Indian Hawthorn Shrub at Fast-growing Trees.

Tips for Growing Lily of the Valley

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 8
• Flowers in: Spring
• Plant in: You can grow lily of the valley in pots and borders alike by planting bulbs in fall after the ground has cooled.
• Position: Partial to full shade. These are a good choice as plants for under trees or for a container garden in a north-facing yard.

Tips for Growing Hawthorn

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Spring
• Plant in: The best time to plant trees and shrubs like hawthorn is fall before frost. Familiarize yourself with tree planting mistakes to avoid before planting.
• Position: Part shade to full sun. These trees are versatile and can grow well in a range of positions. To encourage hawthorns to flower, position the shrub somewhere with plenty of sunlight.

June: Honeysuckle and Rose

'When growing honeysuckle, you will likely want to set up precautions to keep it
contained to an area, as it can be very invasive,' warns Christen Waddell. 'Many of the best honeysuckles like to climb, so give them a trellis to lift themselves off of the ground,' she suggests.

Similarly, there are plenty of climbing roses to choose from, as well as other beautiful rose varieties growing in a shrub form for a classic summer border. Be aware there are some common rose mistakes to watch out for.

Tips for Growing Honeysuckle

• US hardiness zone: Zone 5 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Summer to early fall
• Plant in: You can grow honeysuckle in pots or the ground. Plant deciduous honeysuckles in winter and evergreen honeysuckles in spring or fall when the ground is cool.
• Position: Partial shade in moist, well-drained soil. Climbing honeysuckles do well in the majority of soil types.

Find a honeysuckle bush at Nature Hills.

Tips for Growing Roses

• US hardiness zone: Zone 5 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Late spring to early fall
• Plant in: As a general rule of thumb, plant roses in late fall. Although, it is possible to grow roses in pots at any point in the year.
• Position: Full sun with shelter from strong and cold wind. Opt for well-draining soil to help roses bloom well and ensure they have enough space to grow, as many varieties have a large spread.

Explore the rose bushes available at Nature Hills.

July: Larkspur and Waterlily

Larkspur is also known as delphinium, adored for its bright colors and tall spikes of blooms. Larkspur is often the name used to refer to the annual varieties of this plant. They come in blue, purple, white, and even red, adding drama to summer borders.

Meanwhile, waterlilies are the perfect pond plant. They grow from rhizomes in the bottom of the pond, emerging with graceful creamy flowers, often in white and pink hues.

Tips for Growing Larkspur

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 7
• Flowers in: Summer
• Plant in: Grow delphinium from seed by sowing indoors in early spring. Larkspur varieties can be planted out in spring or fall when the ground has cooled from summer.
• Position: Partial shade to full sun. Keep them sheltered from strong winds and optionally use these plant stakes from Amazon to support their tall spikes, as these are often plants that need staking.

There are lots of delphiniums available at Nature Hills.

Tips for Growing Waterlilies

• US hardiness zone: Zone 4 to zone 11
• Flowers in: Summer
• Plant in: These water garden plants should be planted in late spring using aquatic planting baskets (from Amazon).
• Position: Full sun on calm, still water. Garden ponds are perfect for growing waterlilies, provided the pond gets sufficient light levels to promote blooming.

Water lily rhizomes are available at Amazon.

August: Poppy and Gladiolus

It may surprise you to learn there are several types of poppies, even some that come in shades of blue. Not only are these easy-to-grow flowers popular for wildflower gardens, but they are also often found in cottage gardens.

Gladiolus is also a sophisticated flower often used in cottage-style planting schemes. It has tall stems adorned with soft blooms of all different colors. There's a type of gladioli for every backyard color palette.

Tips for Growing Poppies

• US hardiness zone: Zone 4 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Spring to summer
• Plant in: Grow poppies by sprinkling seeds directly in your yard during spring or fall. They will self-seed and crop up again in the following year.
• Position: Partial shade to full sun. These are some of the easiest flowers to grow because they will tolerate a range of growing environments. Generally, though, they prefer a sunnier spot in well-draining soil.

Find a poppy flower for your yard at Burpee.

Tips for Growing Gladiolus

• US hardiness zone: Zone 7 to zone 10
• Flowers in: Summer
• Plant in: Plant gladioli bulbs in spring. You can also grow gladioli in pots by planting in spring after the risk of frost has passed.
• Position: Full sun, open spot. It's best to ensure gladioli isn't surrounded by other plants that may cast shade over them, and ensure they are growing in well-draining, slightly acidic soil. You can use this soil test kit from Amazon to identify the pH and nutrient levels in your soil.

September: Aster and Morning Glory

With plenty of aster varieties to choose from, you can also grow climbing asters on a trellis or pergola. They have daisy-like blooms which are a stunning choice for plants for fall color. These perennials are also popular with pollinators, so they're a valuable plant to grow in a garden for pollinators.

Morning glory is also a special plant, earning its name from the fact it opens it's delicate blooms early in the morning before they close again in the afternoon. These annual climbing plants can be grown up a house, trellis, or a pergola roof, too.

Tips for Growing Asters

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 8
• Flowers in: Late summer to fall
• Plant in: Sow aster seeds indoors in early spring and plant out after threat of late frost has passed. When sowing flower seeds, take care to avoid seed sowing mistakes.
• Position: Full sun is optimal. However, asters will tolerate light shade. They're perfect for growing in pots, so long as their soil is maintained at a consistent moisture level and not left to dry out.

Tips for Growing Morning Glory

• US hardiness zone: Zone 2 to zone 11
• Flowers in: Mid to late summer
• Plant in: Grow morning glory from seed, sowing them in indoors around four to six weeks before the last frost in spring. They can then be planted out after the last frost.
• Position: Full sun for flowers to open. They do best with six to eight hours of sun a day, thriving in moist but well-draining soil.

October: Cosmos and Marigold

Available in a range of colors, there are both annual and perennial cosmos varieties. You can keep cosmos blooming by deadheading through its flowering season as its blooms fade. They're likely to self-seed if left alone, too, so you might spot some new cosmos growing in your yard the following year.

Marigolds are also a valuable addition to the yard: 'They will bush out and fill an area quite nicely, and they can handle being planted more thickly as well,' says Christen Waddell. Not only this, but you can plant marigolds in a vegetable garden to repel pests that can't stand the scent these flowers give off.

Tips for Growing Cosmos

• US hardiness zone: Zone 7 to zone 11
• Flowers in: Mid summer to fall
• Plant in: Grow cosmos flowers by sowing seeds indoors in early spring, or directly in the ground in late spring when the late frosts have passed.
• Position: Full sun in well-drained soil. Insufficient light levels can cause leggy growth. They work especially well in pots and can make a great thriller in thriller, filler, spiller containers.

Tips for Growing Marigolds

• US hardiness zone: Zone 2 to zone 11
• Flowers in: Late spring to fall
• Plant in: Grow marigolds by starting marigold seeds indoors in early spring. You can then plant marigolds outdoors once frost has passed and the ground has warmed up.
• Position: Full sun, but tolerant of partial shade. They tolerate drought, heat and, humidity. You might also choose to grow marigolds in a vegetable greenhouse to help keep pests at bay.

Marigold seeds are available at Amazon.

November: Chrysanthemum and Peony

Chrysanthemums are arguably the most popular fall flower thanks to their fall hues of orange, red, and yellow. How long chrysanthemums last depend on when they're grown.

Early-flowering mums can be enjoyed from September into October, while late-flowering mums bloom generally through October and sometimes into November.

Peonies show off their display much earlier in the year, at their peak during summer. They have long been associated with love. They are prone to flopping over, but luckily there are plenty of ways to support peonies.

Tips for Growing Chrysanthemums

• US hardiness zone: Zone 5 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Fall
• Plant in: It's easy to grow chrysanthemums by planting them out in late spring, after the risk of late frosts has passed. It's also very easy to propagate chrysanthemums from cuttings.
• Position: Full sun with shelter from strong winds. Chrysanthemums work well in a sunny border, but they're also popular choices for a fall planter. Opt for well-draining, fertile soil for for best blooming results.

For ultimate fall color, plant these Chrysanthemum Matchstick seeds from Burpee.

Tips for Growing Peonies

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 8
• Flowers in: Mid spring to summer
• Plant in: When to grow peonies depends on the type you're growing. Herbaceous peonies and tree peonies should be planted between October and March, while peonies in pots should be planted in spring.
• Position: Full sun, tolerant of partial shade. These sun-lovers thrive in a spot where they get lots of sunlight, but will still grow well in partial shade. They should be grown in a sheltered position where possible.

December: Holly and Narcissus

Not only is holly a popular shrub for its winter berries, it also has uses as a pest-repellent plant and an evergreen shrub providing year-round interest. Its spring and summer flowers are lesser known, but appear as tiny, delicate white blooms.

It may be surprising for narcissus to be a December birth month flower, considering this group of plants (including daffodils) tend to bloom in spring, but paperwhite narcissus is often grown as an indoor bulb to force for Christmas.

With so many types of narcissus, there's certainly one for every yard.

Tips for Growing Holly

• US hardiness zone: Zone 5 to zone 11
• Flowers in: Spring to summer. Berries from late fall to winter.
• Plant in: To grow holly, it's best to plant when the weather is milder in spring or fall. Although, you can plant holly in pots all year round.
• Position: Full sun to partial shade. In spring and summer, holly shrubs are more likely to bloom when they are receiving plenty of sunlight.

Explore the holly bushes available at Nature Hills.

Tips for Growing Narcissus

• US hardiness zone: Zone 3 to zone 9
• Flowers in: Spring
• Plant in: Plant bulbs of narcissus flowers in early fall or plant potted narcissus bulbs in spring before they bloom. This will give them sufficient time to put roots down before flowering.
• Position: This will depend on the type of narcissus you are growing. Generally speaking, however, narcissus plants prefer a sunny spot for bright blooms. It's best to grow them in a well-draining soil.

If you're keen to learn to experiment with forcing bulbs in water, try using these narcissus paperwhite bulbs from Amazon.

FAQs

Do birth month flowers bloom in the month they're associated with?

Generally speaking, the majority of birth month flowers bloom in the month they represent. However, this isn't always the case - for example, peony is a November birth month flower but it tends to bloom during spring and summer.

There are also the factors of region and hardiness zone that impact when birth month flowers bloom. If you're keen to grow your own birth month flower, make sure to research when it needs to be planted and when it will bloom in your local climate.

Each one of the 24 birth month flowers is special in their own way. Whether you choose to plant them in your yard or grow them to gift to loved ones, incorporating birth month flowers in your yard makes for a unique addition to flower gardens.

Before you get planting, make sure to do some planning and read up on resources like our guide to when to start planting flowers for spring and which plants you shouldn't deadhead to ensure growing success.

You may think that December is far too late in the year to plant flower seeds, but that is not the case. There are many flowers you can sow in winter to bring you earlier blooms in spring and summer.

Most flower sowing in December is done indoors, and plants are started in a greenhouse or a heated propagator. Some, though, do need a period of cold and can be planted in a cold frame or directly in the ground, provided it is not frozen.

We aim to show you that December is not too late to sow flower seeds. This list features seven flowers to sow in December to fill your garden with blooms over the next season. A little bit of sowing can provide light relief from other seasonal stresses, and the rewards are bountiful blooms come spring. Let’s see what to plant in December.

7 flowers to sow in December

Many of the flowers on this list are best sown indoors, such as in a greenhouse or on a bright windowsill. Some can be sown in a cold frame or sown outdoors, and we’ll make sure to point out those that can be started in colder conditions.

Getting the heat and light levels right for seeds is a trickier aspect of winter sowings, as natural levels are lower in December. The likes of heat mats, heated propagators, or grow lights are useful when you sow seeds indoors in winter to help you get good germination rates and healthy seedlings.

1. Cranesbill

Cranesbill, also known as hardy geraniums, are low-maintenance perennial plants and simple to grow from seed. There are thousands of hardy geranium varieties, ranging from small alpine plants to ground-cover plants and large specimens for flower beds and borders.

Cranesbill seeds can be germinated in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. They require a period of cold stratification, which can be achieved by storing the pots in a colder, but protected, location over the winter.

Sow seeds into pots or large modules and cover them with a thin layer of soil. Keep the seeds moist, but not waterlogged, and wait for them to germinate in late winter or early spring once the temperatures rise.

See the range of cranesbill geranium seeds at Amazon

See the range of cranesbill geranium seeds at Walmart

2. Dusty miller

Dusty Miller, also known as Silver Ragwort or Silverdust, is a mounding perennial plant with silver foliage and small, yellow flowers.

Dusty Miller can be cultivated as a perennial in zones 8 to 11 or grown as an annual in colder climates. It makes an excellent addition to container gardens or hanging baskets, while it can also be planted in borders, where its silver foliage provides a striking contrast with other plants.

You can sow dusty miller seeds indoors in December in trays or pots filled with seed starting compost. Do not cover the seeds, as light is essential for germination. And provide them with temperatures between 65°F and 75°F, ideally in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill.

Pot up the seedlings as required once they are large enough to handle or outgrow their pots or modules, and plant them outside after the last spring frosts.

See dusty miller seeds at Amazon

See dusty miller seeds at Burpee

See dusty miller seeds at True Leaf Market

3. Impatiens

Impatiens are popular bedding plants that come in vibrant colors to perk up flower beds (including shadier corners of borders), containers, and hanging baskets. They are bright, cheery, prolific, and low-maintenance, especially as they are self-cleaning annuals that don’t need deadheading.

Impatiens are great for mass plantings, but the cost can add up if you get them all from garden centers. You can grow impatiens from seed, but it is a long process, and you need to start early. It usually means starting in winter, and earlier sowings mean earlier flowers.

Sow impatiens seeds into module trays, which is preferable to avoid root disturbance. Another option is using biodegradable pots, such as these 3.15-inch biodegradable pots on Amazon.

The seeds want temperatures of 70-75°F to germinate, and then 62-68°F for the seedlings to develop healthily. Grow lights will also be required in the absence of a greenhouse or a bright window.

See the range of impatiens seeds at Amazon

See the range of impatiens seeds at Walmart

See the range of impatiens seeds at Burpee

See the range of impatiens seeds at True Leaf Market

4. Meconopsis

Meconopsis, commonly known as the Himalayan Blue Poppy, is a glorious poppy with elusive blue flowers. It is not the easiest type of poppy to grow, but if you fancy a challenge with a stunning reward, they are sown from December to February.

Meconopsis do require stratification over winter, but also need protecting from excessive winter wet. Sow seeds onto the surface in pots or trays, but only cover them with a fine layer of compost or grit. Place the containers in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse; they want the cold and frosts but not the winter rain.

Aside from meconopsis, December is also a great month to start growing poppies, with the likes of Icelandic poppies, Oriental poppies, and Shirley poppies suitable for sowing in winter. Follow the above instructions for any of these.

You can get meconopsis seeds at Amazon to sow this month

5. Snapdragons

Snapdragons, or antirrhinums, have been popular for many years, as they can offer a multitude of colors and heights in border displays, plus they make great cutting garden flowers that can last up to two weeks in a vase.

These cottage garden favorites are not the easiest flowers to grow from seed, but they do offer the chance to grow a much wider variety of snapdragons than you typically find sold as transplants in garden centers or nurseries.

Snapdragon seeds are tiny, so take care when sowing them thinly over the surface of seed compost in trays, modules, or pots. Gently press the seeds into the compost and cover with a very fine layer of soil or vermiculite. Take care to water plants from the bottom, to prevent disturbing the tiny seeds.

Snapdragon seeds prefer temperatures of 68-75°F for germination, but they can take some time to germinate, so it often pays to start early. Pot up seedlings into individual pots, and pinch out plants once they have four sets of true leaves to encourage branching and get snapdragons flowering to their full potential.

See the range of snapdragon seeds at Amazon

See the range of snapdragon seeds at Walmart

See the range of snapdragon seeds at Burpee

See the range of snapdragon seeds at True Leaf Market

6. Sweet peas

It may surprise some gardeners to know that you can start growing sweet peas in December to get a head start on the growing year and get earlier blooms of these summer-flowering favorites.

Planting sweet pea seeds indoors in winter rewards you with strong plants to transplant outside in spring and earlier, fragrant blooms to enjoy and pick from May onwards. And it can be done with any sweet pea varieties.

Plant sweet pea seeds in deep pots or root trainers in December, as their fast-growing roots dislike disturbance when transplanting. Plant the seeds around an inch deep into the soil and keep them moist. The seeds need temperatures of 60-65°F for good germination, which can be done in a greenhouse or on a bright windowsill.

See the range of sweet pea seeds at Amazon

See the range of sweet pea seeds at Walmart

See the range of sweet pea seeds at True Leaf Market

7. Violas

Violas are a great choice for delicate, bright plants to bring color in the cooler months of the year. There are perennial and annual varieties, and many types will return year after year as they are self-seeding flowers.

Violas are related to pansies, but have smaller flowers. They come in all different colors, and viola blooms are edible flowers that are perfect for garnishing cakes, adding to salads, or putting in cocktails.

To propagate violas in December, sow seeds lightly into trays, modules, or pots and cover them with a layer of compost or vermiculite. Unlike others in this list, viola seeds want darkness for germination.

Give the seeds temperatures of 60-70°F. If you use a heat mat, pick one with a thermostat. Viola seeds fail to germinate if the temperatures get too high, so control is essential. Pot up the seedlings once they have their first set of true leaves, or thin seedlings in pots, and grow them on at temperatures of 55-60°F.

See the range of viola seeds at Amazon

See the range of viola seeds at Walmart

See the range of viola seeds at Burpee

See the range of viola seeds at True Leaf Market

If you want more inspiration for seed sowing this month, why not start some crops too? Our guide to vegetables to plant in December highlights a great selection of crops you can sow this month. Sowing vegetables in December rewards you with earlier harvests next year.

Did you know there are flower seeds for every month of the year? Your birth month flower can be sown and grown in the month you are born, and yes – there really are flowers you can sow 12 months of the year. If you're struggling to find a meaningful hostess gift for the holidays, this could just be the perfect idea.

Unlike birth month flowers, which are founded in historic and modern cultural traditions, my list of birth month flower seeds refers to a set of flower seeds to sow in every month of the year. The best part is sowing your birth month flower seed will reward you with enjoyment that extends beyond your birthday month, as you get to watch your seeds sprout, grow bigger, and eventually bloom.

What's more, the majority of birth month flower seeds are on the list of easiest flowers to grow from seed, so you can't go too far wrong with them. To help you out, I've compiled all 12 right here alongside expert tips on how to grow them successfully.

Discover your birth month flower seeds

Add these birth month seeds to your roster of birth month plants, including birth month fruit trees and birth month herbs – you can grow an entire garden personalized to your birthday.

FAQs

Why are my flower seeds not growing?

There are many reasons why your flower seeds are not growing. It may be that you've sown them at the wrong time of year, so the temperature and lighting are not optimal for germination, or your seeds may have been unviable to begin with. Overwatering is also a common seed sowing mistake that stops flower seeds from germinating.

They key to success with growing these birth month flower seeds is knowing whether you need to sow indoors or sow outdoors for the time of year you're planting them and your US hardiness zone. Don't forget to also use the below essential seed sowing tools to help your efforts:

It's hard to believe October is already coming to a close, and as November starts, us gardeners are wary of impending frost. But, there's still time to tick off one important task for this month: flowers to sow in October.

Many of these blooms land on the list of flowers to sow in fall, and the truth is, you can get away with planting them in early November. But, for the best results, getting them sown sooner rather than later is ideal.

Sowing these flowers now will allow plenty of time for the seeds to establish, offering earlier blooms come spring. Many of them also require an essential cold period, so sowing them now is the perfect thing to add to your fall gardening checklist.

7 Flowers to Sow in October

Many of these flowers to sow in October are annuals, and you can plant them both now and in spring for an extended display. Others are perennials, and sowing them this month will reward you with returning blooms every year, once established.

1. Nigella

You can grow nigella by sowing seeds in the fall before frost.

It's a hardy annual across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 11. In the majority of climates, you can sow directly outdoors this month. The seeds will then overwinter and start sprouting in early spring.

However, in the harshest and wettest climates, it's best to protect nigella seedlings with methods to protect plants from frost. For example, with these cloches from Amazon.

Find nigella seeds at Walmart.

Find nigella seeds on Amazon.

2. Sweet Peas

If there's one spring flower to get a head start on in fall, it's growing sweet peas. This is especially true if you want early spring blooms.

Sweet pea varieties are generally hardy across US hardiness zone 2 to zone 10. When sown in the fall, it's best to sow seeds indoors or in a greenhouse. You'll need a seed starter tray (from Amazon) for this.

You can then plant out your sweet pea seedlings in spring, after the risk of hard frost has passed. It's best to first harden off seedlings before this to ensure robust growth.

Find sweet pea seeds at Burpee.

Find sweet pea seeds on Amazon.

3. Larkspur

Larkspur is one of the best self-seeding flowers, meaning you will only need to sow seeds once for returning blooms, as these annuals tend to disperse their own seed after flowering in late summer.

When sowing larkspur seeds in fall, you can sow them directly outdoors. The winter temperatures provide essential seed stratification to kickstart growth come spring, resulting in stronger plants.

These blooms are hardy across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 11 and prefer a sunny, sheltered position in a well-draining soil type. Bear in mind they can grow up to six feet (depending on variety), so a position at the back of a border is ideal.

Find larkspur seeds on Amazon.

4. Coneflowers

This is a perennial you can grow from seed and sowing in fall provides the perfect amount of time for cold stratification, germination, and root establishment.

Coneflowers can be sown directly outdoors in fall, best in a spot that is well-draining and sunny. They're best grown across US hardiness zones 3 to zone 9.

Sowing in fall will result in blooms in spring, though you should be aware that the plant won't have lots of blooms in its first year, rather focusing on establishing a strong root system. It should have a more impressive flower display in the following years.

Find coneflower seeds on Amazon.

Find coneflower seeds at Burpee.

5. Queen Anne's Lace

For a filler for borders and beds, consider sowing Queen Anne's Lace in fall.

This short-loved perennial (often treated like a biennial) is best sown directly outdoors this season for strong establishment and growth in spring. Plus, it develops a deep taproot that is not ideal for transplanting, so it's best sown outdoors in its final position.

The seeds should be planted six to 12 inches apart, just below the surface and covered with a thin layer of soil.

It's hardy across US hardiness zones 3 to zone 9, and you can expect to see blooms in its second year before it sets seed for another round of growth.

Find Queen Anne's Lace seeds on Amazon.

6. Nemesia

While you commonly purchase nemesia plants in flower in spring, you can also grow this tender perennial (commonly grown as an annual) from seed. It's best grown across US hardiness zones 2 to zone 10.

It's best to sow nemesia seeds in the fall under shelter, such as in cold frame or a greenhouse. This will protect from frost and allow germination for earlier blooming in spring, all the way to late summer.

When the seedlings appear, you should thin them out and keep them potted under shelter until the risk of late frost has passed.

Find nemesia seeds on Amazon.

7. Grape Hyacinth

Grape hyacinths (muscari) are some of the best miniature bulbs you can grow, but you can challenge yourself by growing them from seed. The best time to sow? Fall, before frost.

Something to be aware of is the fact that this is not a quick process. When growing grape hyacinth from seed, it could take two or three years before you see any blooms. Nevertheless, seeing those charming cone-shaped flowers will be a rewarding sight.

Sow the seeds directly in their final position, just below the surface and around three inches apart. You should make sure the soil is well-draining and slightly alkaline (use this soil test kit from Amazon to find out more about your soil's pH).

In spring, you will see just a few leaves as the seeds focus on developing a bulb in the first year. You don't need to cut these back at the end of the season; rather, wait until they have yellowed and died back naturally, providing the bulb with as much energy as possible.

Alternatively, plant grape hyacinth bulbs (from Amazon) this month for spring blooming next year.

When planting these flowers to sow in October, make sure to avoid seed sowing mistakes that could hinder your success with them. Likewise, stock up on the following seed sowing essentials to make this job more efficient:

Chrysanthemums, or 'mums', are quite the controversial topic amongst flower growers, gardeners, and florists. The seventies 'chrysanth' is often thought of as a fairly ugly, prissy thing, with static, unmoving petals in garish hues. But, the tide is changing, as well as there being many delightful, new dahlia-like varieties of 'mums' which are becoming increasingly trendy.

Although fairly ubiquitous flowers, growing mums isn't necessarily straightforward. If you're wondering how to grow chrysanthemums successfully, maybe for late-season cut flowers (they can last over a month in a vase) or simply for some neat pompom bursts of intense color, then you need to be aware that there are some common mistakes you should avoid.

So, if you're heart is set on growing these blooms, it's worth taking heed of these six chrysanthemum mistakes before you set out, or, if you are already growing mum's and finding it an uphill battle, you may just recognize one of these pitfalls and turn your mum growing mishaps into a masterpiece.

1. Misidentifying the variety you're growing

The first thing you should consider when growing mums is the variety that you are growing and its specific needs.

There are perennial garden chrysanthemums and perennial cut flower chrysanthemums, which will return year after year if they are overwintered inside. These are perfect for a cut flower garden or to grow in pots once the summer dwindles and your summer pot is over.

There are annual chrysanthemums, which only last a single season and should be composted once they have finished for the year. These are, more often than not, found in nurseries sporting vivid colors and in shorter, bushier mounts.

Before setting out, it's worth ensuring you know which variety you are growing, or wish to grow, so you can both grow them successfully and manage your expectations.

2. Over feeding your chrysanthemums

Whilst it is tempting to throw on a lashing of concentrated fertilizer on your mums to keep them happy and healthy, it's very easy to overfertilize them.

Whilst it serves as a boon to your chrysanthemums to feed in their early growing stages, once they begin to grow and bud up, you really needn't feed them anymore.

Stay away from high-nitrogen fertilizers because it promote excessive, tender leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Not only will you have fewer flowers, but you will also increase their susceptibility to frost damage.

Instead, for your 'mums' to flower prolifically, use a high potassium fertilizer like this one available at Amazon, whilst they grow in the spring.

3. Underwatering

Chrysanthemums need consistent watering because of their very shallow root systems, which dry out quickly and cannot access a large water supply

Deep and regular watering is even more important if you are growing chrysanthemums in pots, since their restricted root space and limited soil volume mean they will very quickly dry out.

Ensure the soil never dries out fully and water every day in warm weather, reducing to weekly watering once the weather cools.

4. Forgetting to pinch out your plants

Pinching out your young chrysanthemums is the main key to prolific blooms that don't grow too leggy and spindly.

The idea is to remove the growing tip so the plant is encouraged to send out new side shoots. The more side shoots the plant produces, the more flowers it will produce.

Your 'mums' should be pinched when they are young to encourage them to develop a more bushy growing habit. Forgetting to do this is one of the most common chrysanthemum growing mistakes that leaves your chrysanthemum plants tall, scraggly, and lacking in flowers.

5. Planting mums in pots without adequate drainage

When you bring your plant home and add it to the flower bed or house it in a pot, its important to think about good drainage.

Although, as forementioned, 'mums' are big water drinkers, they need both plenty of water and good drainage to thrive, and if they are watered heavily in an environment without adequate drainage, they will perish shockingly fast.

If you are potting up your chrysanthemums, the pot must have drainage holes at the bottom. Even if you do have drainage holes in your pot, and it is sitting flush to the ground, the water may not be able to drain well. If this is the case, it is worth getting some modestly priced pot raisers like these available at Amazon, which will lift your pots slightly from the ground, allowing water to drain.

6. Not giving them enough natural sunlight

Chrysanthemums need full sun. Not partial sun or dappled shade, but full sun - at least six hours of daylight per day.

If they get less than 6 hours of sunlight or spend time in the dappled shade, they will be far weaker and their blooms far more tepid. That's why they're great for south-facing garden ideas, but if you have a garden deprived of light, you may struggle with mums, so consider planting them in a pot and moving them to a position in your home that receives the most amount of direct sunlight.

7. Forgetting to deadhead spent blooms

Many people don't realise that mums are fantastic cut and come again flowers, so the more you cut them for the vase, the more ebullient blooms they will produce.

As well as regularly cutting your chrysanthemums, you should also be deadheading any spent blooms as often as you can.

At the end of the summer, when the rest of the garden is brown and mushy, chrysanthemums fill up borders with color at a gallop. But if you are finding that after a few fantastic flowers, they seem to be losing their vigour, and not quite as thrilling as those first few weeks, then you need to be deadheading more often.

Deadheading will prevent the plant from making seed and encourage further blooming. The idea is to deadhead the spent flowers before the plant drops the petals and makes the seed head. Interrupting this process will prevent the message from returning to the plant that its flowering job is done.

It will throw out more flowers as a result. If you haven't already been deadheading your mums, now's the time to dust off those gardening snips and get out there.

Chrysanthemum growing essentials

As well as mums, there are many chrysanthemum alternatives, like asters and rudbeckia, to try in your flower garden too. If you love mums and have never grown rudbeckias, let this be your sign. Starting to bloom in summer, they are one of those rare flowers that will last until December, or even later, if you treat them well.

Have you ever noticed bouquets of flowers from the supermarket often have yellow blooms? Or that you can't help but smile as you pass by daffodils in spring? It's by no coincidence.

In many traditions and cultures yellow flowers symbolize joy and friendship, which is why they are such cheerful blooms to grow in the yard and gift to others. These connotations are founded in both modern culture and ancient traditions. There are even specific yellow flowers associated with different events and emotions.

Just like birth month flowers, the symbolism behind yellow flowers makes them an easy way to brighten up your planting and mood. Here, we take a closer look at what exactly yellow flowers symbolize and our top three yellow flowers to grow for cutting, so you can bring the joy of them indoors and share them with others.

What do yellow flowers symbolize?

There are a few ancient traditions where yellow flowers hold specific meanings.

For example, in Ancient Egypt, yellow was associated with rebirth and and eternal life. For this reason, yellow marigolds (like these marigold plants from Walmart), were often used at burial grounds.

In Ancient Chinese traditions, yellow flowers were associated with wealth and and good fortune. Often yellow chrysanthemums (plants from Amazon) in particular were symbolic of longevity and resilience.

You'll also find yellow daffodils (like these bulbs from Amazon) when the Welsh holiday of St David's Day comes around every 1 March. In Welsh tradition, daffodils are the national flower.

Interestingly, though, in Victorian floriography (the language of flowers), yellow flowers were more of a negative symbol. Yellow roses implied suspicion, infidelity, and unfaithfulness.

As for modern tradition, yellow flowers are a cultural symbol of happiness, friendship, new beginnings, and more. In fact, 21 September is celebrated as Yellow Flower Day in Mexico and Latin countries, where yellow blooms are gifted to express happiness, joy, and a desire for strong friendship.

3 yellow cut flowers to grow in your garden

With yellow flowers being a cultural symbol of positive emotions, they make for touching gifts on special occasions.

With this in mind, yellow blooms can make a lovely addition to a cut flower garden, ready to harvest and share with others. Here, Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull, shares her top three yellow cut flowers to grow:

1. Sunflowers

There are few flowers more cheerful than sunflowers, and the good news is it's incredibly easy to grow sunflowers at home.

'Sunflowers are some of the easiest annuals to grow in spring,' Rachel says. 'You can plant sunflower seeds (from Amazon) directly in the ground after the risk of late frost and have blooms just a few months later.

'Depending on the sunflower variety you choose, these plants will need staking. You can use these bamboo plant stakes from Amazon to help support the tall stems and stop the flowerheads flopping over,' Rachel describes.

When you harvest them, you can make cut sunflowers last longer by regularly making a fresh diagonal cut at the bottom of the stem.

'Don't forget to harvest sunflower seeds also, so you can grow them again next year for free,' Rachel adds.

2. Billy buttons

If you dream of a blobbery (a garden full of spherical shapes), then opt for growing Billy buttons in your cutting patch. They're also known craspedia and originate from Australia and New Zealand.

'Billy buttons are some of the most cute and charming blooms to incorporate in a cutting patch,' says Rachel. 'They're best started from seed (like with these Billy button seeds from Amazon), and will provide you with bright spherical blooms from spring to fall.

'They make for great architectural plants and will also attract lots of pollinators. When cutting them, make sure to use essential pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to make clean, sharp cuts,' Rachel adds.

3. Black-eyed Susans

Black-eyed Susans are adored for their long blooming period, typically from mid-summer until frost. What makes them extra special for a cutting patch is that they're cut-and-come-again flowers.

'You can harvest black-eyed Susan flowers numerous times throughout summer and fall,' says Rachel. 'Take pruning shears and cut at a 45° angle at the base of the stem. This will encourage the plant to produce more blooms until frost.

'These are also perennial plants, so it's important to cut back black-eyed Susans in fall and winterize black-eyed Susans by mulching to ensure they make it through the harshest season,' Rachel adds.

You can purchase black-eyed Susan seeds from Amazon. They're best started indoors in early spring.

FAQs

Are there any yellow flowering houseplants?

Yes, there are yellow flowering houseplants. The most notable include zebra plant (from Walmart) and yellow kalanchoe (from Walmart). You can also grow yellow mini rose plants indoors, and even yellow chrysanthemums.

If you're looking for more symbolic plants to grow and gift, check out our guide to birth month trees and zodiac houseplants. These can make special additions to memory gardens for loved ones, too.

Shop flower growing accessories

If you happen to love chrysanthemums or 'mums' and want to grow them in pots, then happily, it is straightforward and very rewarding.

Since they are such generous flowerers, and they bloom later in the year than most others in the garden, growing chrysanthemums has been, for many generations, a long-established way to inject color into an otherwise bland scene, in the chillier months.

Here's all you need to know to grow happy and healthy chrysanthemums in pots.

1. Get the soil conditions right

First and foremost, ensure you are using a suitable soil type that chrysanthemums thrive in.

Moist but well-drained, fertile soil is best for chrysanthemums. I recommend using any normal peat-free compost you have to hand and adding a little bit of coco peat, available at Amazon, which will prevent root rot and keep it draining well.

2. Position and aspect

Choose a sunny but sheltered spot for your pot-grown chrysanthemums. Apart from a few late summer flowering varieties, the majority of mums flower around September or October right through to Christmas.

By the time the flowers are at their peak and the stems are at their tallest, which tends to be around this time, the wind, rain, and autumnal weather will be looming large.

With this in mind, a sheltered spot would serve best so they don't suffer or snap. You may find that staking, which can look really beautiful. For this, consider something from the garden or small bamboo canes that can be found on Amazon.

To avoid them toppling over, snapping, or getting damaged, keep them stocky and healthy and prevent them from shooting up and getting leggy. This is where pinching out plants is vital.

Once your pot-grown mums get to about 5 inches tall, simply use your fingers to 'pinch out' the top to remove the growing tip so the plant is encouraged to send out new side shoots. This is the key to successfully growing mums in pots.

3. Feeding

Feeding chrysanthemums will ensure you are maximising their flowering potential and prolong their flowering season.

Feeding the soil every two weeks throughout the growing season will also help set them up for a healthy winter, so they don't die when the temperature plummets.

Simply add a little amount of organic plant food like this one available at Amazon, regularly and any homemade compost from your garden, too.

4. Watering

Chrysanthemums are very thirsty flowers since they are very shallow-rooted.

With this in mind, if you are growing them in pots, they will need deep watering daily throughout summer, and once the weather cools, once a fortnight should be more than sufficient.

5. Which 'mums' to pick?

Chrysanthemums can be both annual and perennial. Simply check the plant information on the tag when purchasing, to ensure you pick the right variety for you.

Most chrysanthemums are annual varieties, and will just do one single season. If grown in a pot, they will deliver months of brightly colored flowers and then be composted at the end of the season. If you are simply after a riot of color during the cooler months, then these are perfect for you.

Perennial varieties, often referred to as 'hardy mums' are, in my opinion at least, far superior, and they will return year after year, getting better with each year they grow. But there is one caveat to this: they tend to sulk once the weather turns really nasty.

6. Overwintering

Potted plants are more susceptible to frost damage because they don't have the insulated benefits of those planted in the ground.

Once the winter weather really sets in and the mild autumnal days dwindle, and the evenings become very chilly and frosty, you will need to protect your hardy chrysanthemums, or they may die.

As soon as you see that the first frost is forecast, you should overwinter plants indoors by moving the potted chrysanthemums into a greenhouse, polytunnel, garage, or porch until the risk of frost has passed. If you have nowhere suitable to move them to, you can protect plants from frost with a frost cloth of horticultural fleece. You can also use bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

Our pick of chrysanthemum varieties

There are many chrysanthemum alternatives you could try instead, or alongside mums, too, and dahlias, such as Dahlia 'Nicholas', available at Eden Brothers, and Dahlia 'Brown Sugar' are particularly stunning when planted in pots with mums. Just be sure to add a lovely trailing plant to stick to the thriller, filler, and spiller rule.

Four o'clocks (Mirabilis jalapa) are bright, fragrant, attractive to pollinators, and you can grow them in containers. If you garden in a smaller space and want to enjoy these stunning plants, here is all you need to know for growing four o'clocks in containers successfully.

Growing four o'clocks in containers offers something different to the annual bedding plants typically found occupying pots and planters in summer. Juliet Howe, award-winning horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design, is one of many who adore four o'clocks in pots, as she says: 'They can be placed on patios or entrance ways where their evening scent and vibrant color can be best enjoyed.'

If you want to grow four o'clock plants to add vibrancy and fragrance to your yard, there are a few key areas to get right so the plants thrive in a container. We reveal how to select the right pot and spot in your yard for four o'clocks in containers, along with some expert tips for maintaining plants so they thrive and give you the best display.

Can you plant four o'clocks in containers?

You can grow four o'clocks in container gardens for a spectacular flowering display to attract hummingbirds, butterflies, bees and nocturnal pollinators. The fragrant flowers open late in the afternoon and often stay open all night, making them fantastic flowers for enjoying in the evening with a drink.

Most gardeners will grow four o'clocks in containers as annual plants. But you may even be able to enjoy your displays for longer.

You can overwinter the plants indoors, or as Edwin Dysinger from Seedtime explains: 'Four o'clocks are warm-weather flowering plants that originated in the regions between Mexico and Nicaragua, although some sources say they originated in Peru. In warm climates (zone 9 and warmer), it is a perennial, while in colder climates it is an annual.'

Expert tips for success with four o'clocks in containers – 5 crucial steps

When you grow four o'clocks as container plants for pollinators, some aspects can make a difference between a glorious display and a disappointing one. They are not necessarily low-maintenance plants for pots, but you can make life easier for yourself by getting the following aspects right:

1. Pot size

Four o'clocks can grow to 2-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide, and, when grown as perennial plants, develop large tubers. It means they need a large container to have the space to grow into.

You can grow four o'clocks in pots, planters, troughs, raised beds, or even self-watering planters if you want to make maintenance a little bit easier. Any container should be at least 20 inches in diameter and large enough to hold five gallons of soil. The container can be of any material, but must have holes in the bottom for drainage to prevent the plant from suffering from root rot.

Fill your container with a fertile, well-draining potting mix, which is always the best soil for container gardening. Such as this premium organic potting mix from Burpee, which feeds plants for up to three months and contains coconut coir to maintain moisture.

2. Location

Four o'clocks do best in full sun. Find a spot in your yard where they can get six hours of sun each day, and they will flower well, even in pots.

Juliet Howe describes them as a 'sun-loving flower' but adds one caveat to keeping them happy. 'In particularly hot climates, the harsh afternoon sun may be too much, so some late-day shade is preferable,' she advises.

You can grow four o'clocks in containers on a porch, deck, patio, or balcony. Juliet has one other key piece of advice for picking the best spot for your pots.

'Perhaps most importantly, four o'clocks have this name because of the joy they bring when they open in the late afternoon, releasing their delicious, intoxicating scent,' says the expert.

'Be sure you plant these where you will most enjoy them.'

3. Watering

Juliet Howe warns gardeners growing four o'clocks in containers that 'pots will dry out much more quickly than a garden bed'. Therefore, she recommends: 'In the summer heat, one will most likely need to water deeply and daily.'

Four o'clocks in containers will perform their best in moist soil. Keep a close eye on the pot and avoid the top two inches of soil drying out. And when watering plants in containers, water deeply until it starts to run out of the drainage holes.

4. Feeding

Just as more watering is required with pots, you also need to fertilize container plants more regularly than plants outdoors in a flower bed.

Juliet advises adding a bloom booster fertilizer weekly to the container to replenish the soil and get more flowers. A liquid bloom booster is a great fertilizer for flowers in pots. Such products contain higher levels of phosphorus and potassium to promote the production of lots of flowers.

5. Pruning

Four o'clocks in containers will benefit from some light pruning throughout the growing season. Giving them some TLC with clean and sharp pruning shears or garden snips will reward you with bushier plants and more blooms.

'When your young plant is about a foot tall, clip the top few inches of the main stem, just above a set of leaves,' advises Juliet.

'And don’t forget to deadhead,' she adds. 'Throughout the flowering season, deadhead the spent flowers to encourage not only more flowers, but also a longer blooming season.'

If you want a lovely-smelling patio, growing a range of fragrant flowers and herbs in pots will bring a gorgeous scent to outdoor spaces of any size. The likes of rosemary, lavender, sweet peas, and nicotiana are all plants that will make a patio smell nice, and all of which are perfectly suitable for growing in containers.

Four o'clock plants (Mirabilis jalapa) truly live up to their name. They got their moniker from the fact that their flowers don't open until late afternoon and last into the night. The plants are also known as the 'Marvel of Peru' due to their native origin in the Andes regions of South America.

They are tender perennials that produce bright, sweet-smelling tubular flowers in summer and fall. The spectacular blooms come in many colors, and you can even get multiple colors on a stem. They make great plants for pollinators, attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees during the day, plus nocturnal pollinators after the sun goes down.

Four o'clock plants are simple, low-maintenance plants for flower beds or containers. You can grow them in most climates, as even though they are tender, they can be grown as annuals or lifted and overwintered in cooler climates, similar to dahlias. If you want to grow four o'clock plants, I spoke to some experienced gardeners to reveal their tips and tricks for sowing seeds and having happy and healthy four o'clock plants.

All you need to know to grow four o'clock plants

The easiest and most inexpensive way to grow four o'clock plants is to sow seeds in spring. Alternatively, you can propagate the plants by purchasing tubers or taking plant cuttings from established clumps.

Before growing four o'clock plants, it is important to recognize that they are toxic to both people and animals. If you worry about potentially poisonous plants in your yard, due to an overly curious pet, for example, steer clear of this plant.

How and when to plant four o'clock seeds

Four o'clock plants are simple flowers to grow from seed, but before you start sowing, they do need to be both scarified and soaked – it takes a bit more effort but is well worth it.

Juliet Howe, award-winning horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design, recommends both these steps, as they speed up germination and increase the number of seeds that will sprout.

'Mirabilis jalapa seeds have a hard outer coating,' she explains. 'Thinning or scarifying this seed coating will speed up germination by allowing water into the seed. To scarify a seed, either rub gently with a piece of sandpaper or, using a small blade, cut the seed, creating an entry point for water.

'Then, place the seeds in a bowl of lukewarm water for eight hours. This hydrates the embryo inside the seed, signalling that it’s time to begin growing.'

After completing the above steps, the seeds can be sown. In warmer climates, this can be done outdoors after the risk of frost has passed. In cooler zones with shorter seasons, starting seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost is advisable to give them a protected start and avoid any unexpected late frosts.

• To sow seeds indoors – Sow seeds on the surface of well-draining seed compost and give a light covering of more compost or vermiculite – but keep it thin as they need light for germination. Place the container in a bright spot where it can receive temperatures between 65 and 75°F. The seedling should appear in 7-14 days, and you can transplant the seedlings outside after the frost, after a period of hardening off.
• To sow seeds outdoors – Once the soil temperature reaches at least 65°F, sow seeds directly into their growing position a quarter inch deep in the soil and at least six inches apart. Gently cover them with a thin layer of soil and keep them moist for good germination. Thin the seedlings as they develop to 18-24 inches apart to give plants adequate space to grow.

Where to grow four o'clock plants

Four o'clocks do best in full sun; they are a sun-loving flower that does its best blooming planted in a sunny spot in the yard. However, in very hot climates, they may benefit from some protection from the intense afternoon sun.

'Four o'clocks can take some shade,' claims Edwin Dysinger from Seedtime. 'As long as they have at least six hours of full sun each day, they'll bloom well.'

On an ideal location for four o'clocks, Edwin adds: 'They don't require a special soil and can do well in poor soils, but they will do best in a neutral to slightly acidic soil.'

The truth is that four o'clock plants can prosper in a variety of soil types, provided the drainage is sufficient.

'While four o'clock plants need water to thrive, their tubers will rot if they are in waterlogged soil,' says Juliet. 'Choose a site where the soil is well-drained, or amend the soil accordingly.'

Such amendments to improve the garden soil include adding organic matter, such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold, to boost drainage and provide essential nutrients to plants.

How to grow four o'clock plants – maintenance tips

• Watering – The key with four o'clock plants is consistency; the soil wants to be moist but not waterlogged, especially if you want the best flowers. 'If the top inch of the soil is dry to the touch, it is time to water,' says Juliet. 'During summer's hottest days, this may be at least every other day. In early fall, this may drop to once or twice a week.' Keep a close eye on when to water plants, but avoid overwatering as four o'clocks can suffer from root rot in waterlogged soils. Consider using a soil moisture meter to judge when your plants need moisture and avoid making the watering mistake of over-saturating the soil.
• Feeding – If you are fortunate enough to have rich, fertile soil, extra feeding may not be essential. Plants will benefit from an application of an organic balanced fertilizer in the spring, followed by feeding with a bloom booster in midsummer. One fertilizing mistake to avoid is continuing to feed past summer, as Juliet warns: 'Stop fertilizing in the fall. You'll want your plant to put its energy into its tuber, shutting down for the season rather than sending up new growth.'
• Pruning – Edwin recommends 'pinch back or trim young shoots to make them more bushy'. This is best done when the plant is young, around six inches tall, and beneficial as pinching out plants promotes bushier growth and increased flowering. The flowers of four o'clock plants themselves are short-lived and not self-shedding. Deadheading isn't essential, but it is recommended to tidy the plant, encourage more flowers, and have a longer blooming season. Deadheading also prevents the plant from self-seeding around the garden.
• Overwintering – Four o'clocks are fully hardy in zones 9-11. If you live in the US hardiness zone 8, you can attempt to overwinter tender plants by adding two inches of protective mulch before the first freeze. For gardeners in cooler climates with cold winters, you can lift the tubers to store for winter. Simply cut back the plant, lift the tubers, and, like with overwintering dahlias, store them in a dry, cool, frost-free place. If you aren't fussed about overwintering four o'clocks, you can treat them as an annual and remove them once the frosts kill the plant.

FAQs

Can you plant four o'clock seeds in the fall?

No, fall is not an ideal time to plant seeds. If you want to grow four o'clock plants from seed, stick to sowing in spring, either outdoors after your last frost or indoors 6-8 weeks before the final frost for your location.

How do you collect seeds from four o'clocks?

Four o'clocks are self-seeding flowers. You can prevent this by deadheading, or embrace it and get new plants for free. Either let nature do its course, or collect seeds before the plant disperses them. Four o'clocks produce large black seeds at the tips of the stems. You want to pick them and lay them out on a flat surface to dry, before storing the seeds in paper envelopes or glass jars to sow next spring.

As mentioned earlier, four o'clock plants flower into the night and make great plants for nocturnal pollinators. If you are looking for more plants that bloom at night, the likes of moonflowers, night-blooming Jasmine, and evening primrose all make fantastic choices. They are perfect if you want to create a moon garden to be enjoyed after dusk by humans and pollinators alike.

There’s something odd and beautiful about Dodecatheon, or shooting star, with unusual petals flung back like they’re caught in the wind. They remind me of cyclamen or erythronium in shape and form.

Native to North America, these dainty blooms are pretty hardy, usually forming clumps of rosettes and throwing up their flower stalks in early spring. In the right spot – somewhere a little shady and with moist soil – they should naturalize without any need for intervention from you.

So, if you’re after a new perennial but fancy something that your next-door neighbor won't have in their yard, not just another hosta or fern, I’d give Dodecatheon a go. Here, one expert plant expert from Wisconsin reveals why she loves this native species, and the tips of the trade to ensure they spread across your plot.

How to grow shooting star

These part-shade perennials are native to North America, growing in damp environments such as alpine meadows and moist prairies. There are many different species and varieties, ranging from white to pink to purple.

Growing habits for shooting star

'Shooting star is a hardy woodland plant that can be grown from zone 4 plus,' says plant expert, Katie Sunderlage.

Shooting star seeds are available from Amazon.

'The simplest way to grow them? From Seed,' Katie continues. 'I would do this in the fall to allow time for root development.

'The seeds need light to germinate successfully, so it’s important to sow them right on the surface of the soil. A great method to use is mixing seeds with sand and scattering them throughout the planting area.

'Choose a location in part sun, avoiding the hot afternoon sun, and well-drained soil. It is also crucial to water well after seeds are sown and continue regular watering throughout the sprouting season, keeping the soil moist but not saturated.

'Once established, Dodecatheons are generally very low maintenance, and you should be enjoying a carpet of delicate blooms for the years to come.'

Care guide for shooting star

Soil: Shooting star plants tend to do best in damp, fertile soil. I would avoid growing them or scattering seed in dry, rocky or poor soils, to avoid disappointment. Instead, opt for woodland-like borders. 'Some mulching around plants to help retain moisture,' Katie advises, 'and keep your soil in good condition.' Try using something like this organic mulch from Back to the Roots, available now via Walmart.

Light: Part-shade is best for these short-lived perennials, ideally in the dappled light under a shrub or tree. While you can try deep shade, chances are their growth will be very slow.

Watering: Shooting star plants need consistently moist soil to thrive. 'Watering during drought times is necessary to maintain overall health,' Katie says. 'Ideally, supplemental watering won't be necessary as the soil will retain moisture in a damp bed.'

Fertilizing: 'Mulching will feed and nourish the soil with organic matter,' Katie says, 'and other than that, I would not advise any supplemental feeding.'

Pruning: No pruning or deadheading is required for this species. Allow plants to set seed so that they spread across the yard. Any yellow or brown leaves can be removed in early spring to tidy up, too.

Toxicity: They are generally not considered toxic for either humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow shooting star in pots?

I would not recommend growing shooting star in pots, simply because this perennial has a short season. So, once the spring blooms have been and gone, you will be left staring at pots with rosettes of green leaves, and little else. So, keep them in borders where you can combine them with successor perennials to continue the colorful show.

'Since shooting star plants tend to start dying back when temperatures start to rise in spring, it’s good to choose companion plants that require the same general needs but will also help fill in the gap once this plant is dormant,' says Katie.

'Some great options are wild geranium, woodland phlox, ferns and trillium, all of which like a damp, shadier spot.'

For more inspiration, see our guide on the best plants for under trees, and fill your yard with joyful perennials.

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Modern breeding techniques and mass production have meant that the chrysanthemum genus, frequently spotted in gas stations, funeral parlours, and granny's gardens, has, unfairly or not, fallen miserably out of fashion. It has got a reputation as a cheap garden filler, yet few care to remember just how useful it is for extending the garden's season of interest.

As garden trends go, this one is sticking, and it is hard for 'mums' to earn their way back into our hearts. So, if we are to move on, we're looking for substitutes that offer the following: late-flowering blooms that offer an injection of color, beautiful movement in the borders, textural interest, and a good vase life as a cut flower.

These three superb chrysanthemum alternatives deliver on all of these vows, and then some.

1. Asters

Asters are some of the best perennial plants, for growing in place of the chrysanthemum.

Happily, asters flower at the same time as chrysanthemums, though they outperform them in terms of looks.

Their ubiquity should not put you off them one bit. Asters can be relied upon for extending your season's tapestry of colors and texture; they're dependably colorful, attractive to pollinators, thrive in any soil type, and easy to grow from seed.

As the garden falls into a hushed lull in late summer, asters put on a terrific display. There are several aster varieties, namely the New England asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) and the asters commonly known as Michaelmas daisies.

An annual variety, called China Asters, will only survive for one season, though they are exceptionally pretty, almost peony-like with their cloud-like blooms and flower prolifically for months on end.

Hardiness: Perennial asters are extremely hardy and can survive in US hardiness zones 3-9.

Height: 40cm (16in) to 1.2m (4ft)

Planting position: Because they are native plants of North America, asters work very well in naturalistic or prairie planting schemes. Ensure they have maximum sun exposure, and in terms of height, they work best in the middle of the border. Asters can be grown in containers in well-drained compost.

2. Dahlias

If weaning yourself off chrysanthemums, then let me prescribe you a dose of dahlias instead. It's the range of dahlia varieties that is so astonishing. There are around 36 species of dahlias, with thousands of various cultivars and hybrids.

There are the dainty pompon dahlias, cactus dahlias, waterlily dahlias, dinnerplate dahlias, peony dahlias, collarette dahlias, the list goes on. Once you start growing them, you find you find it hard to stop.

Dahlias have a broad tolerance to soil types, but like it to be fertile, so add homemade compost to the soil to keep them happy. If you don't make compost, then add a small amount of organic seaweed fertilizer like this one available at Amazon.

All dahlias are bountiful cut flower croppers, so if you are planning a cut flower garden, you simply must get some in the ground.

Hardiness: Hardy in zones 8 and above, though in zones 7, you will find a good mulch, and they will overwinter in the ground. Any lower, lift them and overwinter them indoors.

Height: Depending on the type of dahlia you grow, height will vary dramatically. Compact dahlia varieties reach about 40cm (15in), and the taller varieties can grow up to 6ft tall.

Planting position: Dahlias are wonderful when grown in pots. In a border, they want a sunny and sheltered position.

3. Rudbeckias

If it's true staying power you're after, then rudbeckias win, hands down. Starting to bloom in summer, they are one of those rare flowers that will last until December, or even later, if you treat them well.

Butterflies, bees, and other pollinators are wildly passionate about rudbeckias, and they are always teeming with honeybees, ladybugs, and goldfinches.

It's probably much to do with how these flowers simply glow, while much of the garden is brown and bare. On the grey, gloomy days that kick in once summer has tailed off, rudbeckias keep the theatrics alive.

Hardiness: Annual rudbeckias, derived from Rudbeckia hirta, are grown from seed each year, cost next to nothing, and grow prolifically for a good six months. Whilst they aren't hardy, so they will complete their whole life cycle in one year, they are phenomenal bloomers.

You may find that if you overwinter them in a shed, greenhouse, or out of frost, they last more than one year and flower even more prolifically the second year.

Longer-lived perennial rudbeckias are notoriously bombproof. They're derived from Rudbeckia fulgida, Rudbeckia laciniata, and a few others, and they will survive almost any weather conditions, even in zones 2 and 3.

Height: Dependent on the variety you grow. The smallest will grow to about 25cm (10in), and the loftiest can reach well over 5ft.

Planting position: Rudbeckias have very few requirements. They want a full-sun position, but that's really it. They can be grown in pots or in a border; just be aware of the eventual height of the type you are growing when deciding whether to place it at the front, middle, or back of a border.

You may find the only issue is that slugs tend to like them just as much, so use a slug repellent like this one available at Amazon to prevent such a tragedy.

Its true that chrysanthemums produce tidy, dense mounds of spectacular color, but these qualities certainly aren't limited to this group of plants.

To my mind, the dahlia trumps the chrysanthemum every time. Not just for aesthetic reasons, but for practical ones too. They return year after year, and if you choose the varieties that pollinators are less fond of, such as pompons, they will keep flowering into winter without issue.

It may be that mums are one of those wonderfully nostalgic plants your grandparents used to grow. I know petunias will forever conjure up images of gardening with my grandmother. Though would I permit petunias in my own garden? The answer is a resounding no. So, unless mums are sparking joy, remove them and replace them with one of these alternatives, unless of course, the nostalgia is just too strong.

Native to eastern North America, golden Alexander, or Zizia aurea, is an impressive wildflower that is prized for producing acid-yellow umbels during spring, usually around May and June. And, not only do they look good, but pollinators love this spring-flowering wildflower, including bees and butterflies.

In its native range, golden Alexander grows in wild meadows and wetlands, although it can thrive in backyard planting schemes that veer towards the wild side. If you enjoy loose, freer prairie-style planting, this wildflower is surely one to add to your plot.

So, if you are wondering how to plant a wildflower meadow in your backyard, golden Alexander is a good species to start with. This easy-to-grow plant will fill your space with color and wildlife – what's not to love?

How to grow golden Alexander

Yellow flowers, like golden Alexander, can inject life into planting schemes, particularly during springtime, when daffodils and dandelions are a common sight. Here's how to grow golden Alexander, including expert tips from a pro gardener.

Growing habits for golden Alexander

'Golden Alexanders are tough, US-native perennials that brighten up garden borders,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening.

'They’re perfect if you are looking for wildflower garden ideas,' Reese continues.

'Hardy down to zone 4, they require little maintenance once established, and, what's more, they are self-seeding flowers, so with any luck, they will spread across the wild pockets of your yard.'

'Sow seeds in fall or stratify indoors (cold/moist for 60 days) before spring sowing.

'Once sprouted, they prefer full sun to light shade and tolerate a range of soils, ideally moist, loamy, and well-draining,' Reese says.

Golden Alexander seeds are now available from Amazon.

Care guide for golden Alexander

Soil: Golden Alexanders do best in a neutral to fertile soil, so it is a good idea to spend a little time mulching to enhance the richness of your borders. Try this organic mulch from Back to the Roots, available now via Walmart. However, if you have clay soil or even poor soil, do not fret, this wildflower can grow in most situations.

Light: In general, this short-lived perennial thrives in full sun, but will tolerate part-shade. However, to enjoy the best floral show, I would recommend planting in borders or meadows with at least four hours of sunshine.

Watering: Deep watering is recommended during the first few weeks to help your new plants settle. In their native range, they enjoy consistently moist soil (typically thriving in boggy and even waterlogged soil), so a little water will go a long way in helping your golden Alexander plants to thrive.

Fertilizing: There is no need to fertilize golden Alexander flowers. As with other wildflowers, they can usually access what they need from the soil. Do not be tempted to apply excess feed, which can do more harm than good.

Pruning: Golden Alexander does not require much management or pruning. All you need to do is cut your perennial down to the base after it has flowered, sometime in summer, once the foliage and flowers have faded. However, the seedheads can be left if you are keen to encourage self-seeding in your yard.

Toxicity: Golden Alexander is considered non-toxic, although the roots, if ingested, can cause sickness, so keep an eye on pets who might be tempted to dig around your plants.

FAQs

Can I grow golden Alexander flowers in pots?

Yes, you can grow golden Alexander blooms in pots, particularly if you enjoy that wildflower, natural aesthetic. Be sure to keep pots well-watered during spring and summer, which can mean a good soaking every day when the mercury is high.

'I would suggest planting Zizia aurea alongside other plants that attract pollinators,' says Reese. 'Pair it with milkweed, purple coneflower, or liatris to support wildlife garden ideas with a layered native border.'

For more information, see our guide to companion planting.

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Despite being less verdurous, there is always winter interest in the garden, with beautiful architectural seed heads, evergreen perennials, and the sculptural branches of trees and shrubs that have fallen into a slumber. But there are flowers to be found, too. Real, live, blooming, abundant flowers, if you know what to plant.

Amongst the best winter flowers, there are, believe it or not, several flowers that will last until December, and I have found that there are always enough flowers in the garden to fill at least a jam jar and bring it into the house, even in the darkest, gloomiest months. Christmas isn't merely reserved for holly, ivy, and mistletoe. I have been able to bring in large pewter jugs filled with colorful flowers, tall, cascading, a riot of color. It simply takes knowing what plants will keep chugging on as the temperatures drop.

Here are seven flowers that last right up to, and in some cases beyond Christmas, brought indoors with handfuls of rosemary and ivy, brighten and warm the darkest, iciest of December days.

1. Rosa 'Hot Chocolate'

Rosa 'Hot Chocolate' is a force to be reckoned with. Out of all the long-flowering rose varieties, 'Hot Chocolate' flowers long after the others have packed up shop.

It blooms in May and continues through summer, showing no signs of slowing down by Halloween. By early December, it's still producing flowers, and by Christmas, there are still many beautiful roses to be picked. It is both highly floriferous and highly scented, with incredibly dark, glossy foliage.

The orange flame buds open to reveal warm, velvety, chocolate-brown flowers, which look simply divine in Christmas floral displays during the festive period.

Height: 3.5 ft

Planting Location: In mixed borders or in containers

USDA zones 5-9

2. Daphne bholua 'Darjeeling'

This evergreen daphne is intensely fragrant and provides year-round green structure in the garden.

Whilst it looks fantastic all year round, come November, it bears masses of white flowers, and by Christmas, they are in full swing.

They're a doddle to grow, so long as they are fed in February or March with a little bit of organic fertilizer, like this organic sea kelp fertilizer available at Amazon, they will keep flourishing for decades.

Height: 8ft

Planting location: Plant 'Darjeeling' where you can brush past it regularly to experience its intoxicating fragrance. By front doors, back doors, gates, or near patios. Due to their considerable root system, they prefer to be planted in the ground and are not very container-tolerant. Daphnes do not like to be moved, so pick their forever location from the outset.

USDA zones 5-10

3. Rudbeckia hirta 'cherry brandy'

The slightest mention of Rudbeckia and many of us instantly think of the garish canary yellow plants that can be a little hard to love. But not 'Cherry Brandy'.

'Cherry Brandy' is one of the very best Rudbeckias on many counts, not least for its rich and highly unusual crimson blooms that appear in July, and so long as you pick them regularly, they will continue to appear without hesitation right through December.

Rather astonishingly, it has a vase life of ten days to two weeks, and I have been known to pick this on Christmas Eve and have it still perky in the vase by New Year's Day.

You can find Rudbeckia ‘Cherry Brandy’ at Nature Hills.

Height: 60cm (24in)

Planting location: Extremely pot-compatible, so one of the best plants for container gardening. Works well in mixed borders as long as the soil is fertile, so keep it well fed. If you have a cutting garden, this is a must-grow flower.

USDA Zones 4-7

4. Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel)

The joys of growing a witch hazel plant are relatively new to me, and now I regret not growing one sooner.

It's a rather ethereal, magical plant, with little flame-colored flowers that look like strewn ribbons across the otherwise bare branches.

When brought inside during the cold winter days, it has a sensational, room-filling fragrance that renders scented candles and home fragrance sprays totally useless.

The flowers continue through the whole of December and are a marvellous addition to a homemade Christmas wreath, or, as I do, add it to a pewter jug with ivy and hellebores for a beautiful festive display.

Hamamelis virginiana is a US native variety and can be purchased from Nature Hills.

Height: 15 ft

Planting location: Pick a location in partial shade. Growing witch hazel in pots is just as easy as planting it in the ground. They are incredibly easy-going plants. Just be sure there is good drainage, as they loathe waterlogged soil.

USDA Zones 3-9

5. Cobaea scandens

Cobaea, often referred to as cup and saucer vine, is one of the very best fast-growing climbing plants for a plethora of reasons. Its eagerness to grow very loftily is, of course, a non-negotiable when it comes to good climbers, and it can soar up to staggering heights of 10-15ft without issue.

But its merits don't stop there, cobaea flowers hard from summer and through winter, and although it should technically stop flowering come the end of October, if it is in a nice sheltered position without intense cold, it will continue to bloom right through to late December or early January.

You can purchase cobaea seeds from Amazon

Height: 10ft

Planting location: Plant on a climbing support in moist soil. It also trails beautifully, so it works at the edge of a pot, and it will cascade beautifully down the side.

USDA Zones 8-11

6. Viola 'Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy'

Viola 'Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy' has both a charming name and a charming character, since its perky double ruffled flowers bloom happily from February to November/December, even when drenched in snow.

To ensure this level of flowering, be sure to deadhead regularly. The intense velvet flowers look lovely on a crisp, cold winter's day, and will keep otherwise empty pots filled through months where little else grows.

Just be sure to keep the slugs at bay, as they like to munch away on violas. Keeping slugs away is the gardener's never-ending headache, but a copper barrier tape like this one available at Amazon will stop them from approaching.

You can purchase Frizzle Sizzle Burgundy seeds from Amazon

Height: 15cm (6in)

Planting location: Grows perfectly in pots. Use a simple organic potting mix enriched with earthworm castings, like this potting mix available from Amazon, and keep deadheading regularly. Works wonderfully on

USDA Zones 3-9

7. Dahlia 'Moor Place'

Most dahlias will die back when the first hard frost hits in November. But certain types of dahlias can continue to flower even as the temperatures plummet, and if you're looking to grow dahlias specifically for their staying power, then it's the pompon dahlias, like this one, you want to keep an eye out for.

'Moor Place' is the most weather-resistant of them all, and it is easily kept going (with regular deadheading, of course) for use in Christmas bouquets.

It is extraordinarily productive and produces flowers of the most saturated deep purplish-burgundy hue. In the summer, they look beautiful next to Knautia macedonica and acid-green euphorbia. Come wintertime, most other plants will have finished flowering, and this dahlia has enough presence and color to still make a serious impact.

You can purchase Dahlia 'Moor Place' tubers from Eden Brothers

Height: 1.2m (4ft)

Planting location: Dahlia 'Moor Place' works well in a mixed herbaceous border, cutting garden, and really looks terrific in large containers.

You must feed this plant with a potash-rich fertiliser to prolong flowering. This potash supplement available at Amazon will ensure your dahlias will be perfect at ensuring they keep blooming for as long as possible.

USDA Zones 7-10

Even many of the best-performing, longest-flowering perennials, like catmint and geums, won't keep blooming by December, even if you do give them all the TLC in the world.

All of these flowers like to see the sun during the summer months, so if your garden is cloaked in deep shade, you may find that you need to stick to full-shade perennials to deal with these tricky areas.

In September, many gardeners start eyeing spent stems and brown petals with a bit of unease. Naturally, you might be tempted to reach for the snips and give your borders and pots a tidy. But, for some species, it is not a good idea to trim, especially not when it comes to tubular flowers that are popular with hungry hummingbirds still passing through.

Some flowers – salvias, agastaches, penstemons – don’t tend to send out more blooms this late in the year. Once they’re cut, that’s it. You’re trimming away nectar that birds might have needed on a final stop. So, while some blooms might look a little brown, there is still sweetness in these stems that migrating birds will be grateful for.

So, this year, why not leave these seven plants well alone and support hummingbirds as they make their long, epic journey south? Here are seven annuals and perennials to never deadhead for hummingbirds.

7 tubular flowers to never deadhead in September

During the hummingbird migration in September, certain nectar-rich flowers can still serve a vital role – even when faded. So, even if your blooms look a little brown or past their best, avoid deadheading them and just let nature run its course.

Here are seven plants you should not deadhead this month.

1. Hummingbird mint

You might be tempted to trim your hummingbird mint, or Agastache spp., especially if the purple flowers have turned brown, but I would recommend leaving stalks in place from September onwards.

These spires are full of tiny trumpet-like blooms, which are nectar reserves, or, best thought of as late-season pit stops for hummingbirds and other pollinators.

So, don’t deadhead this perennial, as no new stalks will come this late in the season. Let the golden and bronze hues go on for a few weeks more.

If you want to add a new variety to plant in the fall, try Agastache 'Royal Raspberry', with live plants available from Burpee.

2. Penstemon

I’ve grown penstemons in many different gardens, from sun-baked terraces in Tuscany to wind-swept rural plots in Wales. They are remarkably hardy and keep the floral show going late into the growing season.

As you might know, penstemons are some of the best perennials to attract hummingbirds, popular for their nectar-rich blooms.

But, in terms of how to deadhead penstemon, I would suggest stopping now. Chances are, you won't get any more shoots. So, enjoy what you have, in all its fading glory, and let migrating birds feast on the last blooms.

Fancy a new penstemon this coming year? Try growing the blue-flowering Rocky Mountain Penstemon, with seeds available now via Amazon.

3. Cigar flower

The unusual cigar plant, or Cuphea ignea, has brilliant, tiny flowers that open in shades of orange.

In pots and beds, these are unbeatable flowers to attract hummingbirds, and can often go on blooming through until October in sunny, sheltered yards.

Regardless of where you grow this annual, in September, don’t touch it. The flowers might be fading, yes, but it won't rebloom this late in the year. Those browning petals can still offer sustenance to migrating hummingbirds, so hold off pruning for a little while yet.

Want to watch hummingbirds up close in your yard? Try these Occer wildlife binoculars, available now via Amazon.

4. Bee balm

Deadheading bee balm, or Monarda spp., is a good idea earlier in the growing season, but by September, it is best to put the pruners away and leave your perennial to do its thing.

Even when the flowers have browned, you'll see hummingbirds hover and sip at bee balm blooms, clearly still valuable even past their prime.

If you fancy adding a new Monarda variety to your yard, try this 'Balmy Rose' bee balm plant from Amazon.

5. Salvia

If you grow salvia in pots or borders, you'll know that these perennials can go on flowering for many months of the year, typically producing many thousands of tiny tubular, nectar-rich flowers that will attract pollinators.

While deadheading salvias is a good idea earlier in the season, from September, it is not worth the effort, as no new flower stems will emerge. Plus, hummingbirds adore even the faded stems.

If you want to add another variety to your yard, try Salvia nemorosa 'May Night', with live plants available at Amazon.

6. Cardinal flower

Cardinal flowers, or Lobelia cardinalis, are perhaps the ultimate plant to attract hummingbirds. But, come September, leave any remaining flower stems in place, even if they are more brown than scarlet.

While you might think deadheading is a good idea earlier in the summer, at this stage, it is not worth it.

If you want to add a few more clumps to your borders, September is a good time to plant. Try these live cardinal flower plants from Amazon.

7. Cardinal creeper

The cardinal creeper, or Ipomoea quamoclit, is one of the best climbers to attract hummingbirds, producing masses of red blooms throughout the growing season.

However, by September, I suggest leaving this annual vine in place. Forget deadheading, pruning or tidying up. Just leave it alone for a few more weeks, and insects and birds will be able to feed on any remaining nectar as the weather drops and fewer flowers can be found.

You can then cut back and compost the plant in the winter months, when hummingbirds have safely made their way south.

One final bit of advice – if you have lots of hummingbird feeders in your yard, be sure to keep them clean even in September to avoid any diseases or infections spreading.

And, remember to keep them topped up with nectar solution to fuel any hummingbirds passing by.

For more information, see our guide on how to remove black mold on hummingbird feeders.

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As with all realms of design, there are prevailing themes that have long held their place in the design canon, and new, emerging trends that are utterly redefining. Garden trends are determined by a whole host of influences, including designers, aesthetes, tastemakers, and horticultural buffs. Some are short-lived micro trends, and some trends really take root and dominate the entire garden scene for years, or even decades, without flinching.

However, the particular plants that become fashionable can be harder to predict, but know where to look and keep your finger on the pulse and immerse yourself, as I do, in the gardening world, and you will see the allure of the future it-girl plants very clearly, and these are set to influence our garden ideas in 2026 and beyond.

Here, I read the tea leaves on the plants that are expected to have their time in the limelight next year, each earning its place on the roster, I feel, for good reason, and each I expect will be the most coveted plants next year, the next Geum 'Totally Tangerine' or Dahlia 'Café au lait', it's just a case of identifying them. Finger to the wind, here are seven plants I predict are set to soar in 2026.

1. Cephalaria gigantea

There has been an emerging trend for the use of butter yellow flowers and acid yellow plants, to cut through the oftentimes sickly sweet layer upon layer of ballet slipper pink and dusky purples that dominate so many cottage gardens.

The soft lemon shade of these giant scabious is utterly delightful, and I have seen more and more gardens favour it over its magenta pink and lavender blue sisters.

Honeybees are passionate about this plant, and it is always aflutter with butterflies, too. I plan on filling my sun-drenched border with several of these plants, in anticipation that they will be very hard to come by next year, as everyone catches on.

Height: 80" (200cm)

Position: Full sun or part shade

Hardiness: Zones 4-11

Where to buy: You can purchase Cephalaria gigantea seeds from Ferri Seeds

2. Verbascum phoeniceum

Great Mullein (Verbascum thapsus), sometimes known as 'fluffweed', is a very tall and statuesque biennial, and I rarely see it growing in the gardens I visit.

It has marvellous furry leaves and a tall woolly grey-green stem, from which little canary yellow flowers pop out. Verbascum phoeniceum, known as purple mullein, is one of those plants that has flown under the radar when it comes to garden designers' top picks.

Still, in the last year, I have seen that there has been a collective awareness, or perhaps a re-jogging of the memory, amongst gardeners and garden designers of this impressive plant. It provides immense vertical interest and architectural seedheads for months after it finishes flowering.

It has a reputation for being tricky to grow, but so long as it is drenched in sunshine, it is actually very easy to grow. It is a promiscuous self-seeder, which makes some gardeners nervous, but to me, it simply adds to its charm. I expect to see a lot more Verbascum in 2026. Watch this space.

Height: 100cm (40in)

Position: Full sun only

Hardiness: Zones 5-9

Where to buy: You can purchase mixed Verbascum seeds from Amazon

3. Cornus kousa and Cornus venus

Flowering dogwoods, or cornus, seemed to be the star of the show at this year's RHS Chelsea Flower Show. I spied it in the supporting cast in several show gardens, popping up again and again, clearly a firm favourite. As such, it makes the roster for my predictions on the plants we will see everywhere in 2026.

The cultivars of Cornus kousa, to be more specific. There are a few fantastic cultivars that are becoming incredibly popular and highly coveted. Cornus kousa ‘Teutonia’, which is bred in Europe and turns to a fantastic shade of deep, rich auburn in autumn.

The hybridisation of dogwoods has led to the development of several more shrubs that are becoming highly desirable. Cornus Venus, bred in the USA, produces masses of gargantuan white flowers which really don't stop until the first frost.

Height: 140cm (55in)

Position: Partial shade or full shade

Hardiness: Zones 5-8

Where to buy: You can purchase Cornus Florida from Fast Growing Trees

4. Lilium 'Nightrider'

Growing lilies fell out of fashion somewhat; perhaps many of us think of them as an '80s throwback, reminding us of power suits and nauseating chintzy patterns.

But now lilies have been redefined by a new wave of designers and tastemakers, who are embracing their retro charm and unapologetic flamboyance.

As such, I have seen a proliferation of the most exquisite lily varieties grown in highly prestigious gardens. But which lily do I predict will be all the rage in 2026? Nightrider.

The gothic garden is on the rise: dark purple, burgundy, deep moss green, and inky blues are key to creating the melancholy that is set to overtake the sweet-as-pie cottage garden aesthetic in 2026. Nightrider is the bulb to order now and plant in borders for a bang on trend but still highly unusual plant. You heard it here first.

Height: 36-48 inches

Position: Full sun or partial shade

Hardiness: Zones 3-9

Where to buy: You can purchase Lily Night Rider bulbs from Eden Brothers

5. Artichoke 'Violet de Provence' (Cynara cardunculus var. scolymus)

I am utterly lovestruck with this artichoke. Not just an edible for a kitchen garden, really, I think it is best grown as an ornamental in a mixed flower bed, with its handsome, deeply cut leaves and thistle-like purple flower heads.

Growing artichokes is becoming more and more popular, and this year, the most prolific designers are using them, which is a sure sign that nurseries and garden centres will catch on, and a flurry of young plants will hit the shelves.

Although knowing how to grow artichokes from seed will make it far more economical.

Height: 35-40 in

Position: Full sun

Hardiness: Zones 2-10

Where to buy: You can purchase Artichoke Violet de Provence seeds at Eden Brothers

6. Briza maxima

Greater Quaking Grass (Briza maxima) is one of my all-time favourite ornamental grasses, and I am glad to see that the fan club for this plant is expanding, making this delicate beauty the soon-to-be it-girl for 2026.

Briza maxima makes for the most stunning fresh or dried cut flower, and my cut flower arrangements wouldn't be the same without it.

It is a must-have for mixed grass plantings or in a prairie garden scheme, with its unusual heart-shaped heads that nod in the breeze and structurally dramatic seedheads that look magnificent against the fine-textured foliage.

It's drought-tolerant and unfussy when it comes to soil types, tolerating heavy clay soils and sandy soils with the same unwavering optimism.

Height: 45cm (18in)

Position: Full sun

Hardiness: Zones 4-11

Where to buy: You can purchase Quaking Grass Ornamental Grass Seeds from True Leaf Market

7. Helianthus annuus 'ProCut Plum'

Think you don't like sunflowers? Out of all the sunflower varieties out there, this is the one that will almost definitely change your mind.

As we become more and more aware of the vital role our gardens play in feeding pollinators, garden centers and wholesalers are seeing a dramatic increase in demand for plants for pollinators and a subsiding demand for non-pollinator-friendly plants. There is also a dramatic realisation, especially among young gardeners, that we need to plant with birds in mind, too, to support the overall ecosystem of our gardens.

Plants for birds, such as sunflowers, which have hundreds of calorie-dense seeds, are becoming more and more attractive to naturalistic gardeners, and they're becoming far more ubiquitous than they were even a year ago.

One of the most beautiful cultivars that I predict will be highly sought-after in 2026 is Helianthus annuus 'ProCut Plum', which has the most stunning peach-colored leaves with a wonderful, unusual antiqued tone.

In terms of care, the only thing to bear in mind is that ProCut Plum is a hungry feeder, so plant out with plenty of garden compost and feed regularly with an organic plant food like this fertilizer available at Amazon.

Height: 1.5m (5ft)

Position: Full sun

Hardiness: Zones 1-10

Where to buy: You can purchase ProCut Plum sunflower seeds at Eden Brothers

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If you're weighing up investment plant purchases to make, or not to make, in the coming weeks and months, these should all be top of your list.

As ever, though, trend or no trend, ultimately you should plant what you love and avoid what you don't love, to plant authentically in your plot.

Sweet William, or Dianthus barbatus, are the ultimate cottage garden plant. A riot of pinks, whites, purples and reds with charming, old-fashioned blooms. In recent years, I have been a little obsessed with the 'Nigricens' group, which produces stems of solid purple-brown (almost black) blooms. Grown in a pot with something punchy like Viola ‘Tiger Eye’, this sweet William is hard to beat.

While all sweet William varieties are low-maintenance and relatively easy to grow, a little deadheading can go a long way in terms of longevity and keeping your borders and pots in good shape. Spending five minutes trimming every few days can really make all the difference, in my experience.

So, if you know how to grow sweet William but want some advice on trimming the blooms, you have come to the right place. Here's everything I know about how to deadhead sweet William.

Is it necessary to deadhead sweet William?

Whatever varieties of sweet William you enjoy, deadheading is an important job to add to your summer gardening checklist. Not only will it keep your yard looking good, but you can squeeze out as many new flowering stems as possible, sometimes right through until September and October.

If you enjoy bubblegum pink blooms, try this 'Baby Doll' sweet William variety, with seeds now available to order from Amazon.

When and how to deadhead sweet William

Sweet Williams can be grown in most regions and US hardiness zones, regardless of climate. They can either be sown as biennials, meaning they will flower the following year, or picked up from garden stores and treated as an annual that will last only until the first frost.

Deadheading dianthus and sweet Williams is one of those easy garden tasks that can have a big payoff. Once those first domes of flowers start to go over, usually around early summer, when the petals are dropping or browning, that is a good time to snip.

Doing so will hopefully coax the plant to keep going, often giving you a second, slightly smaller flush of flowers later in the season.

I tend to deadhead sweet William in borders and in pots, especially if I’ve gone to the trouble of pairing it with other cottage garden plants in containers, as you want to keep things looking neat and tidy.

Use something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available from Amazon, which will easily cut through flower stems. Cut green stems down to the base of the plant, which should encourage new flowers to shoot.

Of course, you can leave these fading flowers to stand, but if you want to encourage more flowers, it is a good idea to trim these stems earlier in the summer.

If you’re lucky, the plant will push out new stems, giving you a second flush. Not always guaranteed, but definitely possible, especially if the summer’s been mild or you’ve kept your plants well-watered and fed.

For feeding, I would suggest a bloom booster or an organic tomato feed, like this fertilizer from Dr Earth, available from Amazon now.

Once we reach late summer, however, that is the point I would suggest leaving the faded flowers in place.

With any luck, these stalks will produce seeds you can collect and sow for next year's displays. So, from September onwards, it is probably best to stop deadheading and enjoy the end of the growing season.

FAQs

Can you compost trimmed sweet William stems?

Yes, all sweet William flowers, stems and leaves can be added to your compost heap. This green waste will quickly break down, just be sure to snip longer stems up into small bits (no more than a few inches), which will help with the composting rate.

While sweet Williams are tough plants, during hot summers, it can help to complete some deep watering as well as deadheading, which should boost flower production for as long as possible.

For more yard maintenance inspiration, see our guide on deadheading agapanthus, to keep your borders looking good late into the fall months.

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If you think you hate orange, I urge you to reconsider. The aesthetic success of a truly mesmerizing garden is all about the layering of tonal palettes. It's why I rhapsodize non-stop about adding different shades in any space, be it earthy, organic, rustic, inky, saturated jewel tones, and scatterings of punchy bright colors, like fiery orange.

The best and most impressive gardens in the world never shy away from orange. Avoiding bright hues like bold oranges altogether in garden color schemes makes for a color palette mishap rather than a masterpiece, which can look rather insipid.

So, if you want to add a little bit of impact to your borders or pots this year, here are the ten best orange flowers for elevating your planting schemes this year.

10 best orange flowers

I love using color in my garden. Deep reds, royal purples, burnt umbers. Color is your friend, after all, and can really be transformative in any sized yard.

1. Dahlia 'Bantling'

'Bantling' is a beautifully-formed Pompon Dahlia that earns its keep in any cut flower garden. These are cut and come again, so the more you cut them to add to a vase, the more flowers they will produce.

This dahlia variety has an extremely long season of interest, flowering through to fall.

Hardiness: 7-11

Height: 60cm (24in)

Season of interest: July-November

Where to buy: You can purchase Dahlia 'Bantling' tubers from Eden Brothers.

2. Tulip 'Valdivia'

If you plan on planting just one type of tulip this October (though we hope you intend to plant many, many more), then let it be this one.

Peony-flowered tulips like these are always showstoppers when grown in containers or in a border, and make for some of the best cut flowers.

It begins as a gentle apricot, turning to a delicious shade of burnt orange, and then flushes with a deep red. A truly beautiful tulip.

Hardiness: 3-9

Height: 50cm (20in)

Season of interest: April and May

Where to buy: You can purchase Tulip 'Valdivia' bulbs from Eden Brothers.

3. Rosa 'Lady of Shallot'

One of the best rose varieties for attracting pollinators and for repeat flowering all summer long, 'Lady of Shallot' looks wonderful planted en masse and amongst other cottage garden plants. Happily, it is tolerant of partial shade and all soil types.

Hardiness: 4-11

Height: 125cm (49in)

Season of interest: Repeat flowering from May-November

Where to buy: You can purchase 'Lady of Shallot' from David Austin Roses as a potted shrub rose or a bare root rose.

4. Geum avens ‘Totally Tangerine’

Geums are key players in the garden in May, along with alliums and aquilegias; they look staggeringly pretty and offer a great source of nectar for butterflies and bees.

'Totally Tangerine' flowers prolifically, and returns year after year even stronger and more vivacious than before.

Hardiness: 3-8

Height: 90cm (36in)

Season of interest: May-September

Where to buy: You can purchase Geum 'Totally Tangerine' at Amazon.

5. Fritillaria imperialis 'Aurora'

Plant these bulbs in October or November, and come April, when the garden begins to take its first gasp for spring air, magnificent spires of Fritillaria imperialis 'Aurora' will blaze orange up to waist height.

If you are looking for spring garden ideas, these should certainly make the roster. They're lofty, so they work best at the back of the border, and look superb when planted with other spring bulbs, rather than in isolation.

Hardiness: 3-7

Height: 100cm (39in)

Season of interest: April and May

Where to buy: You can purchase Fritillaria imperialis bulbs from Eden Brothers.

6. Zinnia elegans 'Lilliput Orange'

Zinnias are fantastically generous plants, throwing out flowers all summer long. What's more, they are very tolerant of almost all conditions.

'Lilliput Orange' is such an intense shade of flame orange, it is quite remarkable.

They're fantastic low-maintenance plants that require very little attention. Cut the flowers regularly to encourage more growth and bring the cut flowers indoors.

Because the dazzling orange petals dry to a rusty terracotta color, they are among the best flowers to grow for drying.

Hardiness: 3-10

Height: 60cm (24in)

Season of interest: July-October

Where to buy: You can purchase Zinnia Lilliput Orange seeds from Eden Brothers.

7. Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker)

Red hot pokers: you either love them or you hate them. Famously, Vita Sackville West loved growing them in her famous garden at Sissinghurst Castle, though her husband despised them and wanted them banished.

If you're inclined to agree with the latter school of thought, it's worth trying them in the garden, and you may be surprised how quickly you begin to love them.

Towering, incandescent, and imposing, kniphofias lend a strong vertical line to gardens that need harder shapes to cut through their softness.

They look particularly staggering when planted in great swathes among ornamental grasses. Plant in full sun and a free-draining soil.

Hardiness: 4-10

Height: 150cm (59in)

Season of interest: June-October

Where to buy: You can purchase Kniphofia live plants from Amazon.

8. Crocosmia 'Star of the East'

If you are looking for ways to attract hummingbirds to your garden, then there's little else they will flock to quite as readily as 'Star of the East'.

The crocosmia produces the largest star-shaped flowers of all crocosmia varieties and spreads quite slowly when compared to its more thuggish siblings.

Each slender flame bud opens into huge, four-inch, brilliant orange flowers, citrus yellow in the throat. They continue to flower in my garden well past Halloween, truly dazzling.

Hardiness: 6-9

Height: 60cm (24in)

Season of interest: August-October

Where to buy: You can purchase crocosmia bulbs from Eden Brothers.

9. Nasturtium 'Vesuvius'

I think all gardens should have nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus). 'Vesuvius' is a trailing variety with beautiful dark blue-green leaves and pale orange flowers that flush to a deeper orange over time.

Nasturtiums are great edging plants and trail over walls or raised beds. They also look beautiful in containers and window boxes, so long as they have a little respite from the sun, since they resent intense heat.

Nasturtiums have a strong flavor and all parts of the plant are edible, so I grow them in my herb garden and throw the leaves in salads and scatter the flower heads on cakes.

Hardiness: 3-10

Height: 25cm (10in)

Season of interest: June-October

Where to buy: 'Vesuvius' seeds are available to order now from Burpee.

10. Papaver rupifragum 'Orange Feathers'

If any flower is going to win you over to become obsessed with orange blooms, it's the 'Orange Feathers' perennial poppy.

It's a riot of the most amazing orange hue, with ruffled, double-petaled, paper-thin flowers that bloom non-stop from early June, throughout the whole of summer, and well into October.

This poppy self-seeds generously, which is very much part of its charm. It prefers well-drained soil and full sun, but despite its delicate appearance, it will tolerate almost any conditions, preferring leaner soils devoid of nutrients.

Hardiness: 6-9

Height: 60cm (24in)

Season of interest: June-October

Where to buy: Find orange poppy seeds online via Amazon.

If you like the idea of a naturalistic planting design, whereby plants are allowed to self-seed and wildflowers crop up on their own accord, then try an orange wildflower seed mix to really get the desired aesthetic.

Throw handfuls of this sunset wildflower mix from Eden Brothers into sunny borders and watch them erupt into a riot of color.

Coreopsis, otherwise known as tickseed, is a genus of flowering plants native to North and South America, with over 100 species available and countless hybrids. Its off-putting common name, 'tickseed,' belies its character, since it is a charming, fine-textured, fairy-like plant with a flowering period that is hard to rival and very little to loathe – and despite what you might assume, happily, it does not attract ticks.

Its popularity with honeybees, bumblebees, and butterflies has secured its place on the roster of must-have perennials for adding a dash of color, without relying on traditional tawdry bedding plants. Their propensity to deliver kaleidoscopic color to borders with very little watering makes it well-suited for prairie planting and drought-tolerant planting schemes, as well as being superb cut flowers with a long vase life.

Here, we look at everything you need to know about how to grow Coreopsis successfully in your garden.

Best varieties of tickseed

Tickseed comes in a wide variety of colors from canary yellow and vermillion red to the gentlest of ballet slipper pink and lemon-hued whites.

Whilst there are many varieties of Coreopsis, and it can feel somewhat overwhelming to wrap your head around, more broadly speaking, they can be divided into these groups.

Most tickseed plants are perennials and return year after year. Though some Coreopsis varieties are annuals over perennials (completing their lifecycle in one year), they tend to come in extremely dramatic colors.

All types, whether they be perennial or annual, attract pollinators and are choc-full of nectar, and all are fantastic stress-tolerators.

Some of the best varieties to grow include:

• Coreopsis 'Amulet', looks terrific in a wildflower meadow, with its deep, rich crimson flowers that look as though they're made of velvet. You can purchase Coreopsis Amulet seeds on Amazon.
• Coreopsis 'Creme Brulee' is a beautiful soft butter yellow flower with feathery threadleaf foliage and a fantastically long season of interest, starting its flowering in spring and continuing to bloom throughout the entirety of summer and fall. You can purchase Coreopsis 'Creme Brulee' plants at Nature Hills.
• Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam' is one of the nation's favourites for a reason; it's an award-winning cultivar that plays pied piper to hordes of butterflies and bumblebees. It only reaches around 1.5 ft, so it is best grown near the front of a border or in beautiful terracotta pots. You can purchase Coreopsis 'Moonbeam' as a container plant from Garden Goods Direct.

How to grow tickseed

Before you jump in with learning how to grow coreopsis, it is worth knowing where it will perform best. Tickseed is one of those wonderful perennials that thrive on neglect, so as long as it gets plenty of sunshine, the memo is: plant it and let it do its thing.

Hardiness zones: Although this varies by species, those in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 10 will be able to grow most tickseed without issue.

Exposure: Tickseed likes to be positioned in full sun. Ensure you find a spot that gets at least six hours of sunshine per day for tickseed to reach its full potential. Whilst it can happily tolerate dappled shade, it simply won't bloom as prolifically as it would in a spot drenched in sunlight.

Soil: Tickseed has a broad tolerance to almost every soil, so there is no need to amend your soil in preparation for planting. So long as the roots don't get waterlogged, it will tolerate all soil types. Tickseed tends to perform better in infertile soil, so adding fertilizer is not recommended.

How to grow tickseed in borders and pots

In borders: Tickseed is ideally suited to low-maintenance garden borders, and is right at home with other cutting garden flowers like cosmos, dahlias, zinnias, and achillea.

Take heed of the aforementioned positioning advice, and bear in mind the eventual height your plant will grow to, as some varieties will be lost when put at the back of the border, and some will be far too lofty for the front of the border.

Simply analyze the height of your plant once fully grown and make a judgment as to where it would be best positioned. In terms of companion planting, I would opt for those plants that, like coreopsis, catch the slightest wind, adding a magical kinetic energy to your garden.

In containers: If you're on the prowl for container gardening ideas, then tickseed is a marvellous performer, most definitely worth considering and curiously undergrown in pots, in my opinion.

As long as the container you chose has drainage holes (tickseed won't tolerate waterlogged soil) and is positioned in a sun-filled spot that you know can meet tickseed's needs, it will flower abundantly for months on end.

The best soil type for potted tickseed is all-purpose potting soil, like this organic potting soil available at Amazon.

How to plant tickseed

Plant tickseed in the spring or summer when the threat of frost has passed, spacing each plant around ten inches apart, to allow them space to grow.

Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the plant and place the plant in the hole and fill with soil.

Water newly planted tickseed plants regularly until they establish. Once established, they are drought-tolerant and will not like heavy or regular watering.

Use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check if it's time to top up water levels.

How to care for tickseed

Deadheading: You can deadhead Coreopsis to encourage more blooming, but they are such prolific bloomers, forgetting to do so won't deter them from throwing out more flowers.

Pruning: You can extend the season of blooms by pruning your perennial tickseed plants in August, or if they tend to start flowering early, then you do the Hampton hack, and can prune as early as July.

Trim one-third of the plant back. You'll tidy up the foliage and encourage a new flush of flowers for fall decoration.

Overwintering: Happily, you don't need to take any additional steps to protect tickseed as the temperatures plummet and winter sets in. Whilst you may be tempted to bring them inside, it is not recommended.

FAQs

How do you propagate tickseed?

Dividing: Perennial coreopsis that are several years old (at least two to three years old) and have formed large clumps can be lifted, divided, and replanted immediately. Do so in the spring when there is warm weather ahead to help the new, smaller plants establish.

Propagating tickseed from cuttings: Cut a six-inch piece of the stem beneath a node. Once you have your cutting, insert it into a pot of perlite, like this perlite available at Amazon, until only the top leaves are showing.

Water the pot and place it in a warm, sunny spot. After approximately a month, it should have developed roots, and once the plant is established, it can be planted in the garden.

Is tickseed deer-resistant?

Yes, tickseed (Coreopsis) is a deer-resistant plant, as they do not fit the profile for a delicious deer buffet. One of the benefits of this is that you can use tickseed plants to hide smaller plants that are vulnerable to deer.

Do tickseed plants suffer from any pests or problems?

Tickseed plants are notoriously unflustered and unbothered by any common garden pests.

In some cases, they can be susceptible to powdery mildew but this is fairly uncommon. A neem oil spray like this one available at Amazon tends to remedy the issue quickly.

Now you know how to grow coreopsis, you can add it to your low-maintenance backyard ideas. If you find yourself without endless hours to dedicate to the upkeep of your space, then these happy little flowers should be top of your list.

I’ve been lucky enough that my horticultural career has been wide and varied. From maintaining high-end private gardens to managing therapeutic and community spaces, I’ve also experienced the joy of growing cut flowers commercially.

Flower farming, grown almost totally from seed, taught me many valuable lessons and skills that I am more than happy to share. From choosing the best varieties to preventing leggy seedlings, here are my lessons from a flower farmer to help ensure your flower growing is a success.

So, whether you are growing a few flowers in containers or want to turn some of your backyard over to cultivation so you can adorn your home with cut flowers all season long, our helpful guide compiled by horticultural experts on planning a cut flower garden is full of advice and inspiration.

Lessons from a flower farmer

As any flower farmer will tell you, growing cut flowers commercially is unfortunately not just about picking and arranging beautiful blooms and photographing them for Instagram.

To get to that point, the amount of preparation, planning, manual labor and deep disappointment over species failures is surprisingly large.

That being said, growing flowers is one of life’s great pleasures and I’m not sure anything beats seeing the joy in a client’s or friend's face when you hand over a stunning bouquet that you have grown yourself.

Only grow what you love

It may seem obvious, but perhaps one of the biggest lessons I learnt when flower farming was to only grow what you love.

Flowers are a very personal choice and unless you adore the varieties you choose to grow, then you may well end up resenting the time spent watering, fertilizing and deadheading them.

If you are growing cut flowers commercially, there is obviously a case for growing what sells well, but considering how much of your heart and soul is poured into growing them, to me, at a domestic level, it makes sense only to grow the flowers you love.

For the flower farm, that meant finding the happy medium of growing flowers like Cosmos bipinnatus ‘Purity’, Queen Anne's lace (Daucus carota) and Antirrhinum majus 'Madame Butterfly Bronze', which I, the florists and our customers adored.

Cosmos seeds are available via Amazon.

It’s all about the soil

I was lucky enough to be able to use a beautiful walled garden on the south coast of England to grow my cut flowers.

A site roughly half an acre in size, most of which required intensive preparation to get it ready for the first season.

Following no-dig principles, yards upon yards of weed membrane were laid out to suppress the weeds before mulching with a thick layer of well-rotted manure and garden compost to boost the soil’s fertility and structure.

Lugging wheelbarrows for hours on end in the October rain was certainly not glamorous, but I know that the soil preparation was key to everything growing so well the following year and making the yields so high.

Before you begin a cut flower patch, you can test the soil using a soil meter such as this Garden Tutor Soil pH Test Kit from Amazon, which will indicate whether the soil is acidic, neutral, or alkaline and which plants will grow best in that area.

Ericaceous soil can be limiting for cut flower growing, and if tests show that your soil is acidic, you may want to choose to install raised beds filled with a more neutral growing medium to grow cut flowers more successfully.

Lighting

Having previously grown ornamentals and vegetables from seed in glasshouses for over two decades, I was aware of the importance of light required at the germination stage to prevent leggy seedlings.

However, it was not until I invested in LED grow lights that I understood what a difference they could make, especially in late winter.

Producing healthier and stockier young plants that could be planted out sooner was a game-changer, and this, along with only sowing seeds without grow lights when the longer days arrived, with enough daylight hours to support vigorous growth, meant they were robust enough to handle any slug damage when planted out.

However, focusing mainly on the soil preparation and sales outlets in the first year, I foolishly gave too little thought to the plants' final planting position.

Being short of space and desperate to get the young plants in the ground after hardening them off, I did not take into account how tall each plant row would get and if some plants would be overshadowed by others.

Unfortunately, the rows of multi-stemmed sunflowers (Helianthus) and bishop’s flower (Ammi majus) grew so well and tall that they shaded out the shorter lace flowers (Orlaya grandiflora) and snapdragons (Antirrhinum), causing them to produce fewer blooms. It was a costly but valuable lesson that reminded me of the importance of giving more thought to where things should be planted before doing so.

Supporting plants

As a flower farmer, you are often up against the weather. Hot dry summers one year and endless gales and rain the next taught me to prepare for every eventuality.

However, it was only through the insistence of a fellow flower farmer that I escaped near-entire crop failures due to high winds. Thinking the flowers would be safe and protected within the confines of the walled garden, I originally did not think too much about staking all but the tallest varieties.

Thankfully, though I was advised to support almost every plant using netting that would last for years to come, such as this Tenax Hortonova Plant Trellis Net from Amazon.

Attached to wooden stakes and laid horizontally along the plant rows at height intervals of 18 inches before the plants grew meant that the precious flower stems were supported and survived unseasonally high summer winds that would have otherwise damaged the flowers.

With changing weather patterns, staking plants, whether using the method above or by installing bamboo canes or metal plant supports such as this Eberns Design Plant Support Stake available from Wayfair, can help prevent broken stems or flopping plants come unfavourable weather and keep plants looking their best.

Having gardened professionally for almost two decades, I already knew how crucial watering plants correctly is for them to thrive.

However, it was not until I realised how laborious watering the site by hand was going to be that I installed a drip irrigation system, such as this Dripworks Drip Tape Irrigation Kit available from Amazon.

Even though it was an initial investment, the system proved sustainable and saved me countless hours and watered the plants more efficiently, directly to their roots. Furthermore, using a timer meant that it could be set to automatically irrigate the plants first thing in the morning when the chance of evaporation and water loss was at its lowest.

Deadheading

Along with the correct fertilization and irrigation of flowering plants, deadheading each variety correctly is key to stopping your flowering plants from going to seed and a subsequent lack of blooms.

With hundreds of flowering plants to look after, deadheading quickly went from being a short task in early summer to a lengthy chore when everything came into bloom.

Managing this task with a little and often approach, along with calling in extra hands to help, made it all feasible, but I was astounded by how many hours it required that first year.

It was also surprising how quickly pruners became blunt and how a wrong-fitting pair could cause hand blisters.

Sharpening pruners regularly and using quality tools such as these Felco F-12 Pruning Shears available from Amazon, thankfully, made a big difference.

Working at the flower farm at the right time of day also made deadheading and harvesting the stems more manageable. Avoiding the strong sun in the middle of the day meant early mornings and later evenings, but this was also beneficial for the cut flowers as it meant they had a longer vase life.

Harvesting cut flowers early in the morning when they are most hydrated and plunging them immediately into a bucket of water can make all the difference when it comes to their longevity.

However, if you are unable to pick your cut flowers first thing, the next best time is after the sun sets, when the plants have recovered from the heat of the day.

Although non-essential, fertilizing cut flowers can encourage new blooms, especially for cut and come again varieties. Organic, synthetic and DIY versions are all available and you can find further advice in our specialist article on do cut beds need fertilizing.

Long-lasting and very much on trend, dried flowers can also be incorporated into a cut flower patch. For some inspiration on what to grow and to enjoy your flowers even after the growing season has finished, here are the 9 best flowers to grow for drying.

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Creeping phlox is a low-growing perennial that you’ll often spot tumbling over walls, carpeting a bank, or stitching itself between rock crevices. What I like about it is its sheer determination, thriving in scrappy corners, producing a patchwork of pink, purple, white and even the odd sky-blue.

The name 'creeping phlox' gets thrown around for a handful of ground-hugging species, but the two you’ll bump into most are Phlox subulata and Phlox stolonifera. Both are North American natives, both are ridiculously resilient and both are capable of putting on a riot of bloom through spring into early summer.

So, if you’re hunting for one of the best perennials to smother a slope or soften a rocky edge, I’d say learning how to grow phlox is a good idea. Here’s what I know after years of seeing it used in cottage gardens, rockeries and in between cracks and crevices, where it always seems to find its moment.

How to grow creeping phlox

I think creeping phlox is one of the best perennials for spring and summer color. And who wouldn’t want borders or slopes covered in sheets of jewel-toned flowers?

The good news is that learning how to grow creeping phlox is not complicated. Once planted, it asks for very little, apart from sunshine and reasonably well-draining soil.

Growing habits of creeping phlox

'Ground cover plants are perhaps my favorite category of plants,' says plant expert Lauren Carvalho. 'I think of them as the true workhorses of the garden.

'Creeping phlox, I think, is one of the best. It can help to knit a design together, adding interest to the edges of borders and paths, and adding a pop of color or texture to cracks and crevices where other plants might perish.'

These two native plant species, Phlox subulata and Phlox stolonifera, are both hardy down to zone 5, thriving fairly far north so long as they enjoy a little bit of sunshine.

'The benefits of this gorgeous ground cover species don’t just stop with weed suppression, however, they can also be extremely valuable for pollinators too,' Lauren adds.

'One of my favorites is Phlox nana 'Perfect Pink', native to the southern regions of North America.'

'It is an outstanding performer and isn't picky about soil type. This native starts blooming in spring, offering a carpet of pink flowers with wide petals perfect for pollinating butterflies and moths who tend to rest while they nourish.'

Live pink creeping phlox plants can be ordered via Amazon.

Care guide for creeping phlox

Soil: In my experience, creeping phlox do not tend to be fussy as to the soil they grow in, tolerating rocky and even poor soil, so long as there is good drainage. To help improve soil structure, mulching in the fall months is a good idea.

Light: In warmer regions, like zone 9, these cottage garden plants can be grown as part-shade perennials, doing best in places where they will enjoy a couple of hours of sunshine each day but where they are protected from the afternoon sun. In cooler regions, like zone 5, full sun is best to ensure you get as many blooms as possible.

Watering: Creeping phlox, as with most perennials, prefers a spot of water every now and then. In fact, they do best with consistent deep watering every few days during summer when the temperature can be high. This is important during the first year as they settle into your yard.

Fertilizing: In my experience, it is not really necessary to feed creeping phlox, and these perennials can do just fine without supplemental fertilizer. However, if you do want to give plants a little boost, use an organic, all-purpose fertilizer, available from Amazon, in early spring. But remember, less is more – a light feed is far preferable.

Pruning: After blooming has finished with your creeping phlox, usually sometime in late summer, you can grab your pruners from the shed and simply snip off any faded blooms to tidy the appearance. Beyond that, I would recommend leaving stems and leaves in place through fall and winter, before cutting back all brown and yellow foliage in early spring, before new growth emerges.

Toxicity: Creeping phlox (both Phlox subulata and Phlox stolonifera) are not considered toxic to humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow creeping phlox in pots?

Yes, creeping phlox can be grown in containers, though I’ve found it performs best when it can spread in borders. If you do grow it in pots, pick a wide container and opt for a gritty, free-draining mix, using it to carpet the soil underneath a larger shrub or tree in sun or part shade. And, it goes without saying, but be sure to keep pots well watered during July and August.

Once creeping phlox is settled in your yard, after a year or two, you’ll find it easy to manage. If it gets too thick or starts to spread a little too much for your liking, you can lift and divide clumps in the fall.

For more information, see our guide on how to divide plants to easily grow your phlox collection. Or, alternatively, if you are feeling generous, you could gift a divided plant to a gardening friend. The choice is up to you.

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My garden is looking the best it's ever looked, if I do say so myself. The plants are throwing out the very last of their summer blooms, and all the chlorophyll-rich foliage is looking lush and verdant after having been drenched in sunshine and rain for the past few months. I like to think of my little city garden as a little slice of paradise. That said, there's always a serpent lurking in Eden.

My beloved agapanthus are not flowering, and haven't done so this summer at all. I grow four agapanthus varieties in my garden, and all of them have sulked and refused to flower. Panic set in when I noticed maggot-like bugs creeping all over them, so I took to the internet, ears steaming. My agapanthus, it would seem, has succumbed to the agapanthus gall midge. Its diminutive size belies its character, since this garden pest is particularly damaging and incredibly hard to get rid of.

It would appear that many agapanthus growers find themselves in the same boat – stuck with miserable agapanthus plants and a pest colony running amok in their garden. Here, I explain what I did to tackle the issue, and how you can identify and combat these vexing little bugs.

How to identify the agapanthus all midge

If you're wondering how to determine if the agapanthus gall midge has established a presence in and amongst your agapanthus plants, likely, they haven't done so, since their presence is made very obvious but the disastrous turnout of the agapanthus flowers they live on.

If your agapanthus are looking worse for wear, and you think you might have a bout of agapanthus gall midge, look out for the following symptoms:

• The entire flower head is failing to develop at all
• The flower buds that do form won't open and look as though they have simply dried up and lost all coloring
• Any flower buds that do open are deformed in shape and often begin to rot very quickly
• Small maggot-shaped larvae inside the individual flower buds

When it dawned on me that this small fly had started squatting in my agapanthus flowers, I naively assumed that spraying a little bit of dish soap mixed with water would sort out the issue, and failing that, I would step in with a bottle of insecticide and really wipe them out for good.

As it turns out, it's not quite that simple.

So far, no insecticide spray seems to deter the agapanthus gall midge one bit.

This common garden pest was only fairly recently discovered and recognised as a new species. It stands to reason, then, that its cryptonite has not yet been uncovered.

How to get rid of the agapanthus gall midge

The first port of call should be to apply strulch (a mulch made of straw), which will reduce the number of larvae that successfully pupate once they have dropped off from the agapanthus flower and onto the soil.

A great stulch I have used in the past is this organic Strulch available at Amazon.

At present, the only tried and tested pest control method to eradicate the agapanthus gall midge is to remove all of the flowers on all of the agapanthus plants in the garden and destroy them.

This is because the agapanthus gall midge lays many thousands of eggs, and the larvae form and grow in the flower buds.

So, to reproduce, the agapanthus gall midge needs agapanthus flowers. With this in mind, even healthy agapanthus flowers need to be sacrificed, too, if you are to really conquer the issue once and for all.

It is worth bearing in mind that these flowers need to be removed from the garden and destroyed completely. Don't add them to your compost pile, as this will keep the larvae alive and breeding in your garden.

What to do to combat the gall midge in winter?

It is highly likely that the agapanthus gall midge overwinters below the soil and pupates the following spring.

With this in mind, many agapanthus owners who have been plagued by the presence of the dreaded gall midge decide to remove and destroy all of their agapanthus plants altogether, roots and all, to totally eliminate any traces of any eggs.

This is the course of action that I, regretfully, felt I ought to take. Although this has been costly (painfully so), there is no product available as of yet that kills the agapanthus gall midge, and so I cannot risk an infection lasting throughout winter and destroying my display next summer, too.

I removed all my agapanthus plants, even those that seemed visibly healthy and unaffected, including the flowers, stems, and root balls, and removed them from my garden and destroyed them.

To err on the side of caution, I replaced the soil that lived in my agapanthus border, to be sure I was evicting all unwelcome tenants.

I added new soil, to which I added plenty of organic fertilizer, and chose one high in potash for strong and healthy agapanthus flowers. I used this sulphate of potash fertiliser, available at Amazon.

So, while it might seem extreme, sometimes it is best to bite the bullet, and take radical action. I know that my future agapanthus plants will more than make up for this rather glum (and flowerless) year.

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Gardens are made only more beautiful by the presence of organic, earthy shades like terracotta. The best terracotta colored flowers look as though they have their own patina, their own aging process, a bronze, dark, orange-fired hue that you can't help but gawk at.

Even the most reserved garden color schemes need depth to balance out the oh-so-pretty sweetness of pale pastels and saccharine baby pinks.

Here are seven stunning terracotta colored flowers for adding a golden, fall-like touch to your garden.

7 best terracotta colored plants to grow

1. Achillea 'Terracotta'

As its name suggests, this achillea variety is a beautiful shade of deep terracotta. This perennial blooms from June to September, and even longer if drenched in sunlight.

Achillea 'terracotta' is perfect for prairie planting or even meadowscaping while providing valuable nectar and pollen for pollinators.

Height: 80cm (31in)

Hardiness zones: 3-9

Where to plant: Full sun/partial shade. Best in a sunny spot.

Goes well with: Salvia, Echinops, Dahlias

2. Dahlia 'Creme de Cognac'

Almost all dahlias are stalwarts of the cutting garden, and this sumptuously rich terracotta colored dahlia is a particularly strong performer, blooming with profusion all summer long until the first frost.

Dahlia 'Creme de Cognac' is one of the best plants for pollinators and looks terrific in large (terracotta) pots, where they tower overhead and dance in the wind. You can purchase Dahlia 'Creme de Cognac' tubers from Eden Brothers.

Height: 120cm (48in)

Hardiness zones: 8-11

Where to plant: Full sun

Goes well with: Ammi, Loosestrife, Rudbeckia

3. Heuchera 'Caramel'

Heuchera 'Caramel', sometimes named Heuchera 'Marmalade', has fantastic ruffled foliage that emerges in the summer and spills over the side of containers.

It looks particularly fantastic mixed with several other heuchera varieties in pots, or at the front of a border. You can purchase Heuchera 'Caramel' as a container plant from Nature Hills.

Height: 30cm (12in)

Hardiness zones: 4-9

Where to plant: Partial shade

Goes well with: Heuchera 'Plum Pudding', Hostas, Ferns

4. Zinnia elegans 'Queeny Lime Orange'

Zinnia elegans 'Queeny Lime Orange' is a superb mix of zesty lime and rich earthy orange, that starts as a flame of orangey red and mellows to a rich rusty terracotta.

It flowers socks off from early July through to the very end of October. Deadheading is necessary to prolong blooming and encourage branching. You can purchase Zinnia 'Queeny Lime Orange' seeds from Eden Brothers.

Height: 90cm (36in)

Hardiness zones: 8-11

Where to plant: Full sun

Goes well with: Cosmos, Sunflowers, Nepeta

5. Iris 'Lovely Senorita'

I have a penchant for irises, and this is one of those addictive varieties that once you grow one, you can't stop until you are somewhat overwhelmed by them.

Iris 'Lovely Senorita' is aptly named, with large, highly ruffled tangerine orange standards and short, bushy burnt orange, almost paprika colored beards. You can purchase Iris 'Lovely Senorita' bulbs from Eden Brothers.

Height: 100cm (39in)

Hardiness zones: 3-9

Where to plant: Full sun

Goes well with: Allium, Delphinium, Sedum

6. Geum ‘Petticoats Peach’

These beautiful geums have highly unusual semi-double flowers with gloriously frilly petals that sit atop red stems. If you're looking for blousy, ethereal cottage garden ideas, then these need to be planted in great swathes.

‘Petticoats Peach’ flowers for a remarkably long time, from May and right through the summer months to fall. It is a perennial, so it can be left in the ground and will return year after year with no qualms whatsoever. A wonderfully easy and faff-free plant to grow.

You can purchase Geum Petticoats Peach from Nature Hills.

Height: 25cm (10in)

Hardiness zones: 5-9

Where to plant: Partial shade

Goes well with: Heuchera, anemones, mascari

7. Ranunculus 'Picotee Café'

Ranunculus 'Picotee Café' produces masses of enormous Peony-shaped blooms throughout the summer, in a mesmerising shade of brownish orange.

Beautifully rich, feathered, packed choc-full of petals and with remarkably strong stems, ranunculus make for the perfect cut flower arrangement. You can purchase Ranunculus 'Picotee Café' bulbs from Dutch Grown.

Height: 60cm (24in)

Hardiness zones: 4-10

Where to plant: Full sun

Goes well with: Anemones

The best terracotta colored flowers look sensational mixed in with chocolate colored flowers and interspersed with acid green, often found in euphorbia, nicotiana, and amaranth. Be brave with your color combinations and companion planting – not everything needs to be in the same color family to get along.

Thalictrum has to be one of the most beautiful garden plants. It's lacy, elegant foliage precedes the dainty cumulonimbus clouds of flowers that grow in great froths and swathes.

Knowing how to grow thalictrum is, happily, very straightforward, and they're amongst the very best perennials for top performance flowering that doesn't give in until the very last gasp of summer.

Here is a comprehensive guide to everything you need to know on how to grow thalictrum for masses of dainty, elegant flowers in your garden.

How to grow thalictrum

If you are seeking one of the very best perennials to grow in garden borders, you won't find much better than thalictrum. All you need to do is follow a few very simple growing steps.

Can you grow thalictrum from seed?

Knowing how to grow thalictrum from seed might seem like a worthwhile and highly cost-effective method, but in fact, it can be far trickier than other plants.

Because many thalictrum varieties are sterile, the germination conditions required can be very tricky, and seed-raised plants can take over three years to get to flowering size.

With that in mind, it stands to reason why most people tend to grow thalictrum from a plant.

But, if you did want to try growing thalictrum from seed, this can be done by sowing seed indoors (in a greenhouse, for example) in spring.

Thalictrum seeds are available from Amazon.

Where to grow thalictrum

The genus Thalictrum contains 200 species, and all have varying needs. Though on the whole, their needs can be generalized and distilled into the following rules:

• Although you can grow some thalictrum from seed, it is far easier to buy it as a plant, as germination of seeds is not always straightforward.
• Thalictrum grows well in all soil types, though it prefers moist, well-drained soil.
• Thalictrum likes partial shade, although it can grow in full sun so long as it is watered frequently and never dries out. It is not drought-tolerant.
• If deciding where to plant thalictrum, bear in mind it can reach up to 8 ft, so it is not suitable for the front of a border.
• Hardiness zones vary by species and cultivar, but many common varieties are hardy in USDA Zones 3 through zone 9.
• Unlike some other perennials, it does not need regular division.
• Most thalictrum flowers from June to September and then, once flowers are over, have beautiful structural seed heads which last all fall.
• Thalictrum is herbaceous, so it dies back at the end of summer, leaving bare earth in the winter, from which fresh new growth appears in the spring. It will reappear each year.

How to care for thalictrum

In the spring, when your thalictrum plant(s) jolt back into life, it is worth mulching them with some organic mulch, like this peat-free mulch available at Amazon.

Although this isn't vital, it will keep your thalictrum plant happy and stop it from drying out.

Throughout the summer, continue deadheading your thalictrum plants every week to prolong their flowering season. They also make beautiful cut flowers, so do cut them to bring indoors, and they will continue to throw out more flowers.

When your thalictrum is well and truly over by mid-fall, cut down the stems to the ground, and leave them be until next year.

What to grow with thalictrum

In spring, when most plants are awakening but not yet fully in action, thalictrum is already soaring to a considerable height, and its beautiful foliage is a wonderful prelude to its floral element. This pretty foliage is a great foil for tulips, hyacinths, and other spring-flowering bulbs.

Thalictrum's shape and texture make it ideal for cottage garden borders, and they're central to the cottage style of planting and typical of its soft abundance.

Thalictrum looks beautiful alongside poppies, campanulas, towering spires of delphiniums, and when planted cheek by jowl with rose shrubs.

The plant is also pollinated by bees, butterflies, and other insects that visit the nectar spur, so it is a terrific flower for prairie planting and meadowscaping, mixed in amongst a tapestry of various grasses.

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Thalictrum is a joy to grow in the garden, not least because of its low-maintenance fuss-free nature.

They don't tend to get bothered by pests, although occasionally you might see aphids on their stems and flowers. In which case, it is best to leave them be.

Try not to use an insecticide, since thalictrum is always teeming with honey bees and butterflies; these chemicals can be a death sentence for these wonderful pollinators.

The aphids won't do any harm to the thalictrum plant, and they are a great food source for ladybugs.

In summer, be sure to pick thalictrum and bring it indoors for seasonal displays, and as the season shifts a gear into fall, I would leave the seed heads in place and then pick them for fall wreaths and seasonal displays.

I was recently gifted a mini rose plant and while I love having it on my kitchen windowsill, the thought of having it in my garden, alongside my other roses, did cross my mind. But, then I thought, can I actually grow a mini rose plant outdoors?

After doing some research, I was delighted to learn you can grow a mini rose plant outdoors. But, it isn't as simple as just placing it outside. It turns out you need to do a few things to ensure it is acclimatized before growing your rose in your garden.

It's also easy to make a few rose growing mistakes with mini rose plants, so it's important to take the time to first understand how to grow it outdoors correctly. To help you out, I've put together a guide on how to grow a mini rose plant outdoors with the steps I'm following to ensure it's a success.

How to grow a mini rose plant outdoors

Miniature rose plants are often intended to be indoor plants, usually bought from supermarkets or florists. Just like florist hydrangeas, these plants are usually forced to bloom or are grown from cuttings with weaker root systems.

This means transitioning them outdoors into a colder climate could shock them, stunt growth, or even kill them off. But, it isn't impossible to grow a mini rose plant outdoors. You just need to follow a few simple steps.

Something to be aware of, however, is that not all climates will be able to support a mini rose plant. They will do best across US hardiness zones 4 to zone 11, and will need winterizing to survive frosty winters.

1. Acclimatize your mini rose plant

Just like many of the easiest houseplants to grow outdoors, a mini rose plant needs acclimatizing to ensure it adapts to the temperatures, light, and wind of outdoor conditions.

To do this, I have gradually exposed my mini rose plant to increased sunlight (as it's blocked from sun indoors) by placing it in my yard.

First, I put it in a shaded, sheltered spot for a few hours of the day. When intense afternoon sunlight came out, I moved my mini rose plant back indoors, as to not cause leaf scorch or shock it.

Every few days, I moved my mini rose plant to a slightly sunnier spot for a longer amount of time.

While doing this, I monitored for any signs of stress, such as my rose leaves turning yellow or wilting. If your mini rose plant does show stress, move it back indoors to recover. You can prune your rose with these micro pruning snips from Amazon to remove any damaged leaves or blooms.

After several weeks have passed and your mini rose plant is showing signs of being happy and healthy outdoors, you can move it to its final spot.

These plants aren't likely to grow as big as rose shrubs or climbing roses, so it makes sense to continue growing it in a container garden, although you can also add it to a garden border.

2. Provide plenty of sunlight

Wherever you do decide to grow a mini rose plant outdoors, make sure it's a sunny spot. Just like regular roses, mini rose plants are sun-lovers, so they're less likely to perform well if you grow this rose in shade.

Aim to place it somewhere it will get at least six hours of direct sun a day and you'll watch it rebloom through the summer months.

If you're struggling to find a sunny spot in your yard, however, consider pruning tree branches that are casting shade. You might need essential pruning tools to do this, like these loppers from Amazon.

3. Water your mini rose plant deeply

It's also important to water your rose correctly to help it settle in to an outdoor environment. This means maintaining consistent moisture levels for your mini rose.

To avoid root rot and other rose diseases, it's best to water your rose deeply and less frequently. This will help encourage a stronger, deeper root system and reduce the likelihood of waterlogged soil.

At the same time, you should take care not to overwater your mini rose plant. I personally use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check when my plants need watering and avoid watering mistakes.

FAQs

Should I fertilize my mini rose plant?

Yes, it's a good idea to fertilize your rose, even if it is a mini indoor plant. Roses are heavy feeders and fertilizing (with a rose fertilizer from Amazon) provides the essential plant nutrients needed for longer blooming and more profuse flowers. You should, however, only fertilize your mini rose plant when it is actively growing in spring and summer, to avoid roots burning and oversaturating soil.

Don't forget to winterize your mini rose plant when the colder seasons come round. I'm leaving mine growing in a pot, so plan to just bring it under cover for the winter, but you can also use frost cloths (from Amazon) or mulch to protect it from freezing temperatures.

Flossflower, or Ageratum spp., is one of those plants that really does punch above its weight. With their fluffy pom-pom blooms in lilac and blue, they flower from July right through to the first frost, and even come with the added bonus of a mosquito-repelling aroma. Not bad for such a compact little plant.

I first came across flossflowers years ago, tucking them into a jumble of late-summer bedding alongside other bright, low-maintenance annuals. These half-hardy plants are often sold in nurseries through summer, and I’ve found they’re best in generous drifts. Mass them near a seating area, and you’ll get clouds of powder-blue flowers humming with pollinators long into the season.

Easy to grow and surprisingly versatile, flossflowers are annuals that thrive on neglect and will work in almost any-sized yard. Here’s everything I know about this colorful, useful little plant.

How to grow flossflower

This half-hardy annual, also known as the Mexican paintbrush, has been a bedding staple for decades. Its name is from the Greek 'ageratos', meaning 'not growing old', a nod to how well its blooms hold their color.

Cheerful, forgiving and largely self-sufficient, these fast-growing flowering annuals are ideal for injecting color and impact into any space.

Growing habits of flossflowers

Flossflowers might look delicate, but these purple plants are tough little annuals.

Native to Central America, namely Mexico, Guatemala and Belize, these plants – as you might imagine – do best in bright, sunny yards. In fact, the more sun, the better.

So, if you are toying with where to plant them in your yard, I would suggest finding a spot with six hours of direct sunshine each day, whether in borders or pots.

While they can be treated as perennials in zone 9 or zone 10, for the majority of us in cooler northerly spots, it is best to think of them as annuals that we enjoy for just a few months of the growing season.

In addition, flossflowers contain a compound called coumarin, which is considered to ward off mosquitoes and other biting insects, and is typically found in some insecticides.

Of course, it's not a foolproof way to a pest-free yard, but it might help if you grow in drifts around your patio.

Most varieties are best considered ground cover plants, although one or two, such as Ageratum houstonianum ‘Blue Horizon’, are taller and best suited to the middle or back of the border.

Flossflower seeds can be ordered via Amazon.

Care guide for flossflowers

Soil: While these underrated bedding plants are simple to grow, they do best in fertile soil. So, to help them on their way, I recommend spending a little time improving the soil health and structure by mulching. This easy job can be done at any time of year, but it is a good idea to get in the habit of mulching beds and borders in the fall or winter months (I find it easier when perennials have been cut back). Try this organic mulch from Back to the Roots, available now via Walmart.

Light: Ageratum spp. thrive in full sun, but will tolerate part-shade in warmer regions, such as zone 8 or 9. The best (and most vibrant) lilac flowers are produced in bright conditions; however, so try to find a spot with at least six hours of direct sunshine for your bedding plants. In a pot near the patio of the front door is often a good idea.

Watering: Flossflowers can tolerate heat just fine, but to do so, they need consistently moist soil, especially when grown in pots. You want to avoid waterlogging, but give them a good, deep watering every few days to keep those blooms coming.

Fertilizing: Use something like this bloom booster fertilizer by Dr. Earth, available via Walmart, on a three-weekly basis. Applying a liquid feed during the growing season can extend and boost flowering through to fall.

Pruning: You can pinch out growing tips earlier in the summer to keep plants compact and bushy (for taller varieties). Otherwise, deadheading will help to keep plants looking tidy and encourage more flowers later in the season.

Toxicity: Ageratum spp. are considered toxic for both humans and pets, having a nasty effect if ingested. So, it is best to keep it away from inquisitive hands and mouths.

FAQs

Can I grow flossflower in pots?

Yes, flossflowers can be grown in pots. In fact, this tender plant is perfect for adding pops of lilac to your container displays. In summer, I would recommend keeping the soil well-watered, and be sure to fertilize once every few weeks with a bloom booster feed, which will encourage the plant to keep producing flowers through to fall.

If you have a greenhouse, you can take softwood cuttings of flossflowers in summer, protecting them in the warmth until spring, when they can then be planted outside as the temperature rises.

For a lilac-blue low-growing plant, see our guide on how to grow lungwort.

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All agapanthus varieties are beautiful, that's the long and short of it. To this day, I've never seen one I dislike or one that has disappointed. That is a rare thing to be able to say about any plant species.

Knowing how to grow agapanthus and understanding the rudiments of this genus boils down to two main rules: they like sun, they dislike cold. But what particular agapanthus cultivar to pick when heading to the nursery? There are whoppers, reaching well over four feet tall, and dainty, compact varieties that offer a different aesthetic appeal altogether.

Here, I have chosen the six best agapanthus varieties I would keep my eyes peeled for before any others, each chosen for its ornamental, structural, and wildlife benefits.

1. Agapanthus africanus 'Black Jack'

Agapanthus africanus 'Black Jack' is a true phenomenon. Named the RHS Chelsea Flower Show plant of the year 2023, it's not hard to see why.

Its huge one metre high stems are topped with intensely velvety, dark violet inflorescences. These globe-like flowers are denser and more abundant than usually seen in most agapanthus varieties, and last an astonishingly long time, blooming non-stop all summer long as if compelled to do so.

Best for: The best statement-making Agapanthus with an abundance of long-lasting flower heads

Height: 90cm (36in)

Flowers: June - September

Where to buy: You can buy Agapanthus 'Black Jack' from Edenerseeds.

2. Agapanthus 'Delft Blue'

Agapanthus 'Delft Blue', named after the Delft pottery from the Netherlands, with which it shares the same color palette, produces spherical clusters of stunning, trumpet-shaped blossoms flushed with pale blue. It is truly one of the prettiest agapanthus varieties out there.

In well-drained soil and full sun, it is extremely free-flowering from June to October. Although it prefers to be covered in winter, as it dislikes frost, it will return year after year with even more vigor and flowering potential.

Best for: The most beautiful pottery blue color that attracts pollinators in their droves

Height: 80cm (31in)

Flowers: June - October

Where to buy: You can buy Agapanthus 'Delf Blue' from Easy to Grow Bulbs.

3. Agapanthus 'Emerald Ice'

Agapanthus 'Emerald Ice' is an impossibly beautiful lime green and white Agapanthus - the only one of its kind.

It looks stunning in white garden schemes and even more captivating when grown in large terracotta pots. Agapanthus 'Emerald Ice' has masses of strappy leaves that will be on display for most of the summer, so when it comes to companion planting, especially in pots, be sure to pick something that won't compete for space.

Best for: White gardens, white borders, and container gardening

Height: 50cm (19in)

Flowers: July- October

Where to buy:

4. Agapanthus 'Queen Mum'

‘Queen Mum’ is a particularly impressive agapanthus variety with explosions of enormous firework-like clusters of dual colored flowers. When planted en masse, it is simply sumptuous.

The sculptural seed heads look beautiful even after the flowers fade, so it is great at providing winter architectural shapes in the garden.

The only downside to this remarkable plant is that it is particularly unsettled by frost, so covering it in some horticultural fleece over the coldest months is wise. You can buy garden fleece at Amazon.

Best for: Mass planting in large drifts throughout borders and walkways

Height: 1.2m (47in)

Flowers: July - late September

Where to Buy: You can purchase Agapanthus 'Queen Mum' at Wilson Bros. Nurseries.

5. Agapanthus 'Twister'

Despite its ubiquity, 'Twister' continues to be one of the most favored agapanthus varieties among designers. It is somewhat similar to 'Queen Mum' in coloring, but other than that, the two agapanthus varieties share very few other characteristics.

'Twister' has far more compact flowers, so it is less visually arresting than 'Queen Mum', but no less pretty.

It lasts well over three weeks in a vase, so it makes the perfect cut flower, and is a magnet for hummingbirds, honey bees, and always seems to be aflutter with colorful butterflies.

One of the most graceful container ideas I have seen is 'Twister' paired with the sparkly, butterfly shapes of oenothera and the silvery gray foliage of artemisia. A stunner of a pot.

Best for: Cut flower displays

Height: 60cm (23in)

Flowers: June - early September

Where to Buy: You can purchase Agapanthus 'Twister' at Dutch Grown

6. Agapanthus 'Dr Brouwer'

Agapanthus 'Dr Brouwer' is a handsome, dark-stemmed variety which flushes into flower late in the summer. The umbel-shaped blossoms morph from a pretty lilac shade to a dashing royal blue.

It is hardier than other cultivars, so you will most likely find that it needs no winter protection at all. Its robust nature makes it perfect for coastal gardens and more exposed plots.

Best for: Coastal gardens

Height: 80cm (31in)

Flowers: July - September

Where to Buy: You can purchase Agapanthus 'Dr Brouwer' from Great Garden Plants

For the best flower displays, feed weekly or fortnightly during the growing season. This is helpful no matter what variety of agapanthus you are growing. An organic, all-purpose plant food like this one available at Amazon is best.

For many of us gardeners, mid-August is when our fall thinking caps come on and we start to make plans for putting the garden to bed and adding colder season interest to the yard. But, there is one simple thing you can do to enjoy your summer planting for a little while longer: deadheading.

It's not too late to encourage an extended display by deadheading fading flowers to encourage plants to rebloom before the coldest temperatures kick in. Rather than leaving those wilting plants to wait out the rest of the summer season, make the most of the warm temperatures we're still experiencing by helping your plants to redirect their energy into reblooming.

Of course, it can be tricky to know what to deadhead when, as not all plants will reliably provide a second flush of flowers. To help you out, I've compiled a list of seven plants to deadhead in August, with advice from a gardening expert on how to do it, so you can tick this job off your summer gardening checklist.

Why deadhead plants in August?

Not all plants should be deadheaded in August. In fact, doing so is a deadheading mistake that can leave you without any plants for seedheads for winter interest and it can take away fading flowers wildlife are still using.

But, there are other plants that will benefit from being deadheaded because they still have plenty of energy they can use to put out a second round of flowers in the same season.

Here, experts shed light on seven plants to deadhead in August to help your summer display last a while longer, ahead of fall.

1. Pelargonium

Sometimes better known as bedding geraniums, pelargoniums are fantastic tender perennials that can bloom from spring through to fall. They come in a wide range of bright colors and variegations, and regularly removing their faded blooms will encourage a more abundant display.

'As soon as flower heads begin to fade or petals drop, follow the stem down to the main stem and snip off the entire flower stalk, not just the spent flower,' advises gardening expert Michael Clarke.

'Use scissors or pinch with your fingers to cleanly remove the old flower. This will encourage continuous blooming and prevent seed development,' he continues.

As Michael notes, these are quite easy blooms to pinch off with your fingers, but you can also use essential pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to make a clean cut.

2. Veronica

Veronica is a stunning plant that certainly makes an impact in a purple plant scheme with its vibrant flower spikes. It typically starts blooming in June and by deadheading in August, you can enjoy flowers into fall.

It'll be obvious that it's time to deadhead veronica because the usually bright flowers will have dulled in color and may have browning or greening tips. Remove spent flower stalks just above a healthy set of leaves to ensure the plant puts on new growth.

Not deadheading plants above leaf nodes or new buds is a pruning mistake that can hinder your plant's ability to put on a second display of blooms.

3. Nepeta

Another lavender alternative, nepeta (or catmint) is often loved for its profuse flowering. But, it can start to look a little worse for wear by the time August comes around. The good news is it makes the list of plants to deadhead in August, tidying it up and encouraging new growth.

'After the first big bloom flush fades in early to mid-summer, use a pair of garden hedge shears (from Amazon) to shear the whole plant back by a third,' Michael recommends. 'Focus on removing spent blooms and some foliage to promote a second flush of flowers and keep the plant compact and tidy,' he says.

Read our guide on how and when to prune catmint for more information on different techniques to use.

4. Zinnia

Plants to deadhead in August don't just involve must-have perennials, you can get also more out of your annuals by giving them a bit of attention this month.

Zinnias are cut-and-come-again flowers, so it makes sense removing the flower stalks will encourage a returning display while the summer temperatures stick around.

I have zinnias growing in my cut flower garden and have been enjoying harvesting them to display in vases in my home. But, I have also allowed many of them to stay on display in my yard, offering a bright and cheery view.

When the blooms begin to fade and shrivel, I deadhead my zinnias. In just a matter of days, new flower buds appear. To do this correctly, cut the zinnia flower stem down to just above a set of leaves.

I find the stems of zinnias too tough for snips or scissors, and rather use pruning shears (from Amazon) to make clean cuts.

5. Lantana

This is another plant typically grown as one of the best fast-growing annuals, but it is actually a tender perennial. Lantana is a charming plant with clusters of multi-colored blooms. It belongs to the verbena varieties family and is popular with pollinators, flowering from early summer up until the first frost.

Deadheading is a key aspect of growing lantana if you want to promote a longer blooming period. Look out for when flowers start to form seedpods and then snip down to a leaf node.

When deadheading lantana, you may also wish to take lantana cuttings to propagate and get even more of these beautiful plants for free. You should also fertilize lantana throughout summer to aid flower growth (using this flower fertilizer from Amazon).

6. Coneflower

Coneflower is one of the easiest plants to deadhead in August to spot. It dramatically darkens in color, wilts, and its petals may even fall off.

'Cut the flower stalk down to a set of leaves or a side bud. Deadheading coneflowers will extend the bloom period and encourage branching with more flowers,' says Michael.

But, you may also want to consider leaving some of your fading coneflowers for your winter garden, as their seedheads make the list of the best architectural plants.

'Seedheads will also feed birds in winter and help other wildlife into fall,' Michael adds.

7. Lavender

It can be easy to mistake your lavender being done for the year when those iconic purple flowers become dull in mid-summer. But, getting out your pruners and deadheading lavender in August can reward you with a late summer, fragrant display that pollinators will thank you for.

'Once most flowers are faded or dried in mid to late summer, snip the stems down to just above the foliage mound,' Michael advises.

You want to avoid cutting into woody stems as this isn't likely to regrow. Although, there are a few things you can do to revive woody lavender plants. Reading up on our guide to lavender growing mistakes can also help you prevent your plant becoming so woody.

FAQs

Should I deadhead any shrubs in August?

Yes, there are many benefits to deadheading some flowering shrubs in August. Examples include butterfly bush, roses, and caryopteris, which can all typically provide a second flush of blooms if deadheaded during this month. Not all shrubs will benefit from deadheading in August, however, so it's best to do some research around the specific flowering shrub you have in your yard.

Once your second flush of blooms start to fade in fall, consider collecting seeds to replant next year. You can also using dried seedheads for decorating with dried flowers and indoor arrangements.

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In any plant-rich garden, it's crucial to get the colors just right. If you are a color-phobe, I urge you to liberate yourself from the 'everything white' noughties throwback, and include color, rhythmically and judiciously placed through borders. That doesn't mean you have to add jolts of saccharine Barbie pink and canary yellow. Shades like that found in the best chocolate colored flowers, can be moody and sultry, rather than playful and juvenile.

My love affair with dark and moody garden color schemes continues unabated, and the protagonist in any dark and rich palette is a dark, sumptuous, chocolate brown. In the plant world, chocolate brown plants lean either slightly milky with a dash of ballet slipper pink, or an intensely dark violet. Regardless, each has a distinct cocoa undertone, and I am compelled to recommend every one as a remarkably beautiful and unusual plant.

Here are the eight best chocolate brown flowers to grow in your garden.

8 chocolate brown flowers to grow in your garden

1. Tulip 'Black Hero'

Tulip 'Black Hero' is undoubtedly one of the very best tulip varieties for delivering a superb display of stunning dark blooms.

Seemingly made from deep, near-black, rich velvet, the flowers themselves are simply huge, opening up to something that looks similar to a peony. These lovely flowers have such a delicious, deep honey smell, it's almost hypnotic.

They can be grown in pots, borders, or cut flower gardens and will tolerate full sun to partial shade.

Height: 45cm (18in)

You can buy Tulip 'Black Hero' bulbs at John Scheepers.

2. Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Knight'

I have never seen butterflies swarm to a plant more than they do to scabious. These pincushion flowers are stunning, easy to grow, and packed full of nectar.

Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Knight' is a deep maroon variety, which, from afar, appears almost jet black, and it grows in broad waist-high swathes.

When this deeply saturated color is combined with acid lime green, the color combination is nothing short of pulse-racing.

Height: 90cm (3 feet)

You can buy Scabiosa atropurpurea 'Black Knight' at Eden Brothers.

3. Gladiolus 'Espresso'

Grow this deliciously decadent dark gladioli variety amongst piles of citrus green euphorbia, and sit back and let your guests oggle at the beautiful sight.

These flowers are a deep chocolate red, almost black, and will flower from summer into the fall. To maximise their potential, grow them in full sun, and ensure the soil is well-drained, as they hate to be waterlogged.

Height: Grows up to 5ft tall (150cm)

You can buy Gladiolus 'Espresso' bulbs at Eden Brothers.

4. Aquilegia vulgaris 'Black Barlow'

'Black Barlow' is particularly stunning with its fully double, upward-facing, spurless, dark plum chocolate flowers.

Blooming in late spring to early summer, these are in my book, a cottage garden staple, and every garden is vastly enriched by their presence, not just from an aesthetic standpoint, but it is one of the best plants for pollinators in springtime.

‘Black Barlow’ thrives in well-drained soil and partial shade and self-seeds readily, which means you will get naturalized drifts year after year.

Height: Reaches around 20 inches in height.

You can buy 'Black Barlow' seeds from Select Seeds.

5. Angelica Sylvetris 'Ebony'

If your initial response to this plant featuring on this list is tinged with suspicion, let me assure you that when planted in a border, this wildly beautiful angelica is decidedly coco colored.

The tall milk chocolate stems hold up large umbels of architectural flowers, which look just as stunning when dried and used as indoor decoration as when in the garden.

It thrives in moist, fertile soil with good drainage. While preferring cooler temperatures, it is adaptable to more temperate conditions.

Height: Reached around 7ft tall

You can buy Angelica Sylvetris 'Ebony' at Ferri Seeds.

6. Oxalis Triangularis

Be still, my beating heart. Oh, how I love oxalis. I grow masses of dark chocolate purple oxalis as houseplants inside my home. The dark, delicate leaves close at night and open again in the morning, and the flowers are edible.

This plant is a decorative, low-growing perennial that thrives with bright, indirect light and well-draining soil. A word of warning: growing them can become quite addictive, so proceed with caution.

Height: 6-12 inches

You can buy oxalis bulbs on Amazon.

7. Digitalis parviflora 'Milk Chocolate'

As befits its name, this most interesting foxglove variety looks like, well, chocolate. It soars to the sky with silvery foliage and lance-shaped blonde chocolate flowers. It is quite the vision, and nothing at all like it's oh-so-pretty flouncy girlish cousins.

'Milk Chocolate' quite literally stops people in their tracks, and as far as flowers that attract bees go, nothing is set to beet this giant.

'Milk Chocolate' prefers partial sun but will grow in full sun and flowers from mid April or early May right through to the tail end of July.

Height: 60cm (24in)

You can buy Foxglove 'Milk Chocolate' seeds from Seedville.

8. Cosmos atrosanguineus 'Chocolate Cosmos'

Cosmos atrosanguineus, known as the chocolate cosmos is a wonderfully velvety, dahlia-like plant with chocolate-maroon flowers that, quite incredibly, has an unmistakable smell of hot chocolate - heavenly.

There might not be a cosmos as special as this, so its worth getting your hands on the seeds as they are astounding when they sway about in the garden, in all their decadent glory.

It loves full sun, just remember to deadhead to prolong flowering.

Height: 24", 60cm

You can buy Cosmos atrosanguineus from Ferri Seeds.

This selection includes muted and dusky chocolate tones that feel particularly well suited to summer's transition into fall. All are easily grown in a garden, but perhaps interspersed amongst other hushed tones.

An element of green is always essential when working with dark and moody tones, so don't be afraid to add lighter tones to lift the palette, like peachy salmons and butter yellow flowers.

For taller perennial plants that can always be relied on to inject a punch of color in summer borders and pots, red hot pokers, or Kniphofia spp., are a strong option. Native to sub-Saharan Africa, these fiery perennials will always turn heads with pops of orange, red, peach and white. One of my favorites is 'Tawny King', which is a salmon-peach pastel variety that, to me, is a little less busy than the two-tone options.

Red hot pokers are incredibly tough once they’ve settled in to your yard, thriving in poor soil and asking for very little. But one task that will extend the floral show in summer is deadheading. A simple snip every few days can encourage your plants to produce more flowers for as long as possible.

So, if you already know how to grow red hot pokers but want a little advice on deadheading, you've come to the right place. Here, I explain when and how to deadhead red hot pokers to keep your perennials looking spectacular for as long as possible this year.

Deadheading red hot pokers – my top tips

Whatever varieties of red hot poker you enjoy, deadheading is a great way to encourage your plants to produce as many flowering stems as possible. So, make sure to add this to your summer gardening checklist this year.

If you fancy adding an unusual dwarf variety to your containers or borders, try this crimson 'Red Hot Popsicle' red hot pokers, with live plants available now via Nature Hills.

How to deadhead red hot pokers

In most regions, red hot pokers tend to flower sometime in summer, usually around June, July and August, depending on the variety, local climate and your US hardiness zone.

While individual blooms will last about three weeks (around the 18 days mark), with consistent and regular deadheading, these tall perennial flowers will keep emerging right through until fall, particularly during mild years. While their numbers will dwindle, you can still eek out an extra one or two stems even in late September.

Red hot pokers flower from the bottom up, so those petals that open first (lower down the stem) will have fallen by the time the petals at the top of the flower have seen the light of day.

And, where the flowers have turned brown and the petals have fallen, small green seedpods will begin to swell.

Of course, you can leave these fading flowers and seed pods to stand, but if you want to encourage more flowers, it is a good idea to trim these stems, cutting right down to the base of the plant.

Use something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available from Amazon, which will easily slice through red hot poker stems.

While you can wait until all petals have dropped, I would probably suggest pruning red hot pokers a little sooner than this, to redirect energy into flower production as opposed to seed production as soon as possible.

To note, many red hot poker cultivars are actually sterile and won't actually produce seeds. But, even for sterile plants, deadheading will encourage more flower stems to form, so really, it is worth doing for all varieties.

FAQs

Can you compost trimmed red hot poker stems?

Yes, all red hot poker flowers, stems and leaves can be added to your compost heap. This green waste will quickly break down, just be sure to snip any chunky or longer stems up into smaller pieces (no more than a few inches), which will help with the composting rate.

Red hot pokers are remarkably drought-tolerant, surviving in arid-like conditions without rainfall in their native habitat. However, deep watering once a week can help with flower production, particularly if the summer is incredibly hot.

For more flower inspiration, see our guide on deadheading agapanthus, to get the most out of your yard this summer.

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If you love finding ways to add personal touches to your garden, or perhaps love filling your home with beautiful blooms, there's no better addition than your zodiac flower. That's right, there's a special bloom for each of the 12 star signs.

As someone already growing my birth month flower in my garden, I'm so excited to learn there is also a flower associated with my zodiac sign. It's a beautiful way to make your flower bed personal, and an even more meaningful gift for loved ones.

Keen to discover yours? Here, I outline all 12 zodiac flowers, explore the meaning behind them, and share some tips on how to grow them successfully in your garden.

What are zodiac flowers?

So, where exactly do zodiac flowers come from? While birth month trees are linked to the Celtic Tree Calendar, zodiac flowers are rather linked to astrology, much like zodiac houseplants.

It's a tradition that derives from the symbolism and personality traits associated with zodiac signs, connecting them with flowers that have similar traits and bloom in that star sign's season.

The 12 zodiac flowers are:

• Aries: Honeysuckle
• Taurus: Poppy
• Gemini: Lavender
• Cancer: White rose
• Leo: Sunflower
• Virgo: Buttercup
• Libra: Rose
• Scorpio: Geranium (pelargonium)
• Sagittarius: Carnation
• Capricorn: Pansy
• Aquarius: Orchid
• Pisces: Water lily

Aries (March 21 to April 19): Honeysuckle

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9
• Find a honeysuckle bush at Nature Hills

For Aries, the zodiac flower is honeysuckle. This is a gorgeous trumpet-shaped bloom, often in yellow or white and with a sweet fragrance. It's strong and resilient, much like the traits associated with Aries.

There are lots of types of honeysuckles to choose from, including honeysuckle vines (from Nature Hills) and honeysuckle bushes.

One variety to note in particular is 'Mandarin' honeysuckle vine (from Walmart), which is loved for its climbing habit, beautiful orange hue, and highly sweet scent.

Grow honeysuckle alongside the best roses for instant impact in a cottage garden.

Taurus (April 20 to May 20): Poppy

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11
• Find red poppy seeds at Amazon

Poppy is the zodiac flower for Taurus, a timeless wildflower that holds a lot of symbolism around rebirth, peace, and passion.

'I'm pleased to learn poppy is my zodiac flower because there are so many types of poppies I adore,' says Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull.

Red poppies are the classic choice, but you may also want to consider the showy, colorful oriental poppies (like this pink variety from Amazon).

Or, you can try growing California poppies, a striking orange variety.

'It's easy to grow poppies to add to your yard, too. You can sprinkle poppy seeds (from Amazon) to add to wildflower meadow planting in your garden,' Rachel explains.

Gemini (May 21 to June 20): Lavender

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9
• Find a lavender plant at Nature Hills

Gemini's zodiac flower is one popular with pollinators: lavender. It's a popular, aromatic, drought-tolerant plant that works in borders, flower beds, and pots alike.

There are so many lavender varieties to choose from for your yard, too. I particularly love having French lavender (seeds from Amazon) in my yard, with its delicate butterfly-shaped bracts that sit at the top of the flowerhead. It also has a strong scent that infuses my patio.

While it's straightforward to grow lavender (especially if you provide a sunny spot), there are a few lavender growing mistakes to be aware of.

There are plenty of lavender companion plants to pair it with, this includes drought-tolerant rosemary, or alliums to create an impactful purple display.

Cancer (June 21 to July 22): White rose

• Hardiness: Depends on variety
• Find a white rose in Nature Hills' rose collection

Just like the sincerity and gentleness associated with the Cancer sign, white roses are often thought to be symbolic of purity and protection.

There's something unexpected and charming about a white rose variety, especially as a centerpiece in a minimalist garden. This white Knock Out rose shrub from Nature Hills is one certain to make an impact.

Growing and caring for roses is a bit of a science, so make sure to read up on our guide, as well as rose growing mistakes to avoid.

Many roses are thorny, so it's worth wearing these thorn-proof garden gloves with sleeves from Amazon when working with them, too.

Leo (July 23 to August 22): Sunflower

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11
• Find sunflower seeds at True Leaf Market

On to my own zodiac flower: sunflowers. This is one of the most joyful flowers you can grow and it's associated with the confidence and boldness of the Leo star sign.

I love the classic yellow sunflowers, but my favorite sunflower varieties are the more unusual types. These red sunflower seeds from Amazon are a striking choice, for example.

Whether you want to grow sunflowers in a border or grow sunflowers in pots, these blooms need direct sun to thrive.

For a display to wow your guests, try growing sunflowers as the backdrop to vibrant zinnias (seeds from Amazon).

Virgo (August 23 to September 22): Buttercup

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 8 to zone 11
• Find buttercup seeds on Amazon

Virgo also gets a yellow flower: buttercups. You may usually overlook these lawn weeds, but they can actually bring a lot to an outdoor space.

They represent the modesty and quiet strength of Virgos, and are often spotted in the yard attracting lots of pollinators.

If you don't already have them growing among your grass, you can easily grow them with these buttercup seeds from Amazon. Pair them with white clover (seeds from Amazon) for a truly whimsical lawn alternative.

Libra (September 23 to October 22): Rose

• Hardiness: Depends on variety
• Shop roses at Nature Hills

Rose is the zodiac flower for Libra - a romantic flower for the star sign ruled by Venus. This takes into account all types of roses, though we particularly love long-blooming Knock Out rose varieties.

There are also plenty of roses for small spaces and those you can grow in pots. You can even embrace this Libra flower with a rose tree (from Nature Hills).

To ensure success with your roses, make sure to familiarize yourself with when to plant roses, as well as where to never plant roses.

Make sure to also fertilize roses (with this rose fertilizer from Amazon), as they tend to be heavy feeders.

Scorpio (October 23 to November 21): Geranium (pelargonium)

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 9 to zone 11
• You can find tender geraniums on Amazon, like this white one

As for Scorpio, the zodiac flower is geranium, referring to pelargoniums rather than hardy geraniums. It's a stunning bloom, popular as plants for hanging baskets. It has clusters of petals and layered leaves, linking to the protective nature of Scorpios.

Also known as tender geraniums, pelargoniums come in a wide range of colors. From neutral tones to the vivid tones in this pack of geranium seeds on Amazon.

As mentioned, these plants work well in hanging baskets, making an excellent addition to thriller, spiller, filler containers. Pair it with other flowers for pots, like petunias (shop the collection at True Leaf Market).

Sagittarius (November 22 to December 21): Carnation

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9
• Shop carnation seeds at True Leaf Market

For Sagittarius, carnation is the zodiac flower. It's a brilliant bloom to include in a cut flower garden, so long as you provide plenty of sun. For Sagittarius, they represent optimism and resilience, as they flower into the colder seasons.

These are also quite nostalgic plants your grandparents used to grow, evoking warm and happy feeling during darker days of fall. Plus, they come in a wide range of colors, from pink and red, to white and orange, and even green.

Grow them alongside other flowers for arranging, like dahlias and cosmos (seeds from True Leaf Market).

Capricorn (December 22 to January 19): Pansy

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10
• Find pansy flower seed from True Leaf Market

Pansy is the zodiac flower for Capricorns, a nostalgic bloom that never fails to charm in hanging baskets and pots, and as bedding plants. It's linked to Capricorns not only for its seasonal blooming, but also as a symbol of endurance and strength through the colder months.

There are lots of winter pansies to choose from if you're keen to grow them during Capricorn season. For example, this pack of seeds from Amazon offers a wide variety of winter flowering pansies.

Grow pansies anywhere with full sun to partial shade, ensuring they are protected from intense afternoon heat. They pair particularly well with other cool-season blooms, like hellebores and cyclamen (from Nature Hills).

Aquarius (January 20 to February 18): Orchid

• Hardiness: Depends on variety
• Shop for orchids at The Sill

Aquarius has an exotic zodiac flower of orchid. This includes houseplant orchids (most commonly moth orchids), and wild types of orchid that come in all sorts of wonderful shapes and colors.

You may not have thought of orchids as wildflowers, but they are commonly found growing among grass across much of the US and UK.

One particularly interesting variety is the vanilla bean orchid (starter plant from Walmart), which produces vanilla seed pods. You can even grow vanilla bean orchid indoors.

If you don't have the right local climate to grow orchids outdoors, you can opt for an orchid houseplant (from The Sill) and enjoy your zodiac flower indoors, or gift it to the Aquarius in your life.

Pisces (February 19 to March 20): Water lily

• Hardiness: US hardiness zone 3 to zone 11
• Shop water lily tubers on Amazon

The final zodiac flower is for Pisces: a water lily, fitting for this water star sign. Water lilies have long represented peace and enlightenment.

Of course, the easiest way to incorporate water lilies in your yard is by having a garden pond. Growing water lilies is best successful in full sun.

Alongside other water garden plants, you can use water lilies to create a magnificent display atop the water feature in your yard. Try incorporating water iris (from Nature Hills) in your planting scheme, for example.

FAQs

Why are birth flowers and zodiac flowers different?

Birth flowers and zodiac flowers are different because they're based on two different symbolic systems. While zodiac flowers are tied to astrology and the traits of star signs, birth flowers are rather linked to the calendar months and cultural traditions, largely Western and Victorian traditions.

Looking for other ways to use plants in a personal way in your yard and home? Discover your birth month houseplant in our guide to all 12, as well as our guide to birth month herbs.

Shasta daisies, or Leucanthemum spp., are stalwarts of the summer garden. Often producing masses of daisy flowers during July, August and September, these perennials are both tough and reliable, returning year after year without fail. But, while they are remarkably easy to grow, it can help to learn how to fertilize Shasta daisies during spring and summer, particularly if yours aren't flowering as well as they used to.

I’ve loved Shasta daisies for many years, although I am particularly fond of the aptly named 'Banana Cream' variety, which produces masses of pale lemon blooms and looks great in pots. With a light feed and regular deadheading, I have enjoyed 'Banana Cream' flowers right through until the first frost.

So, if you already know how to grow Shasta daisies, but want to get the most out of your prized perennials this summer, applying a little feed can go a long way. Here's everything I know about when and how to fertilize Shasta daisies, including tips on the best products for the best results.

How to get the most out of your shasta daisies

I think that Shasta daisies are some of the best perennials, happily growing in sunny yards from zone 5 to zone 9 without much effort required.

If you want to enjoy a pale yellow variety this summer, I highly recommend the 'Banana Cream' variety, with live plants available from Amazon now.

While not always necessary, a light feed every now and then can give your plants a boost during summer. Here's when and how to fertilize Shasta daisies.

When to fertilize shasta daisies

It is not always necessary to feed Shasta daisies, and I would caution against using fertilizer for the sake of it.

So, if your Shasta daisies look healthy and happy, and they are full of flowers in summer, chances are you do not need to fertilize.

If, however, your clump is a little light on blooms this year, or perhaps you are worried about growing perennials in poor soil, then it can certainly help to lightly feed during the growing season.

Do so sparingly, feeding once at the start of spring and once during the summer. Anymore is probably not needed and would be considered a fertilizing mistake.

But for any Shasta daisies growing in pots, there is a different approach. I would suggest feeding once every two or three weeks, largely because container plants are entirely reliant on you for water and nutrition.

How to fertilize shasta daisies

For Shasta daisies, you can feed once using a general-purpose fertilizer in spring. Using a slow-release product can be a good idea and will reduce any need for further fertilizer use later in the summer.

Try something like this organic slow-release feed, available from Amazon.

If you are feeding later in the growing season, you will want to opt for a bloom booster feed that is designed to maximize the number of flowers.

In terms of plant fertilizer numbers, you are looking for a product with a higher potash value, which is the third figure in the fertilizer ratio. So, this means sourcing something like 4-5-8 or 5-5-9.

Something like this organic tomato fertilizer from Burpee, available from Amazon now, is a good idea to maximize blooms.

You can also mulch your borders once a year during fall or winter, once you have cut back your perennials down to the base.

A good layer (around two to three inches) of organic mulch will help to improve the nutrition and structure of your soil.

And, finally, remember to keep deadheading Shasta daisies. Spending ten minutes every couple of days removing any faded blooms will help to prolong the flowering season.

FAQs

When should I stop feeding Shasta daisies?

Usually, plant growth and flower production will begin to wane by early September, and it is at this time that you should stop feeding. Sadly, no amount of feed can prolong the summer or prevent the change in seasons, and so fertilizing late in the season will do no good.

In terms of when to cut back Shasta daisies, I would suggest leaving them to stand until the New Year.

Even when they are brown, wildlife will be grateful for shelter and sustenance during the colder months of the year, and I think browning plants help to keep interest in the yard, too.

For more fertilizing information, see our guide on how to fertilize daylilies to discover how to get the most out of your plants this summer.

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If you enjoy tall flower spikes in backyard borders, for height and structure alongside your low-growing perennials, then I do not think you can do much better than Veronica spp.. Also known as speedwells, veronica plants erupt in colorful flowers from midsummer, oftentimes lasting right up until October or even November.

A few years back, I grew a pale pink variety in a London garden, Veronica spicata 'Heidekind', which produced pastel-colored blooms for much of July and August. Alongside white dahlias (I love the star-shaped Dahlia 'Honka Fragile') and Cosmos 'Pink Lemonade', it was blush perfection.

There are many different varieties of veronica to choose from, including lofty purple bloomers and low-growing whites and magentas. So, whatever your preference for size, shape and style, you are sure to find one that is perfect for your backyard. Here's everything I know about growing these perennials, including tips on how to grow veronica in pots and borders, pruning and feeding.

How to grow veronica

I think that veronica are some of the best tall perennial flowers, helping to plug gaps in borders with height and color. And, not only do they look good, but they are also some of the best plants for pollinators, valued by bees and butterflies for their nectar.

Fortunately for us, learning how to grow veronica is relatively simple, so long as you follow a handful of rules as set out here, with advice from one plant expert based in Wisconsin.

Growing habits for veronica

'Veronica, or speedwell, is a tough and hardy perennial that I adore,' says Katie Sunderlage, a garden expert based in Wisconsin.

'It can be grown down to zone 3, and is very adaptable to many types of conditions and climates.

'I find they do best in full sun but can also be grown as part-shade perennials,' Katie adds, 'as they can tolerate some light shade or filtered sunlight.

'You can grow veronica from seeds, cuttings, divisions and also pre-potted young plants from nurseries.

'One of my favorite groups is the 'Skyward' series,' Katie says. 'This variety comes in lilac, blue, pink and light pink – take your pick!

'They are a fairly newer group of plants that have the same upright blooms of other varieties, but they are resistant to deer and powdery mildew and are bred to be more durable and hardy.

'What's more, most Veronica spp. have a high bloom count, attracting essential pollinators, which is wonderful to see.'

Live 'Pink Potion' veronica plants can be ordered now via Walmart, and will inject plenty of colorful pink blooms into your yard this year.

Care guide for veronica

Soil: 'Plant in well-drained, fertile soil, as poor drainage can cause some potential issues such as leaf spot, root rot and powdery mildew,' Katie says. 'You can add some grit to the soil when planting, or remember to complete some mulching every year in the fall to improve the structure of your beds.'

Light: Veronica do best in full-sun situations, preferring at least six hours of direct sun each day. However, in warmer regions, like zone 8 or zone 9, you can get away with part-sun-part-shade, so long as they get a good few hours of light in the morning.

Watering: 'When planting, it’s important to complete some deep watering, thoroughly and regularly soaking your plants until established,' Katie adds. 'Once established, veronica can tolerate more drought-like conditions, but occasional watering is recommended during peak bloom time to help prolong flowers.'

Fertilizing: 'Using a slow-release, balanced fertilizer in spring is recommended to help them come out of dormancy,' Katie says. 'A bloom-booster can also help produce more flowers during August and September.' Try this organic bloom booster feed, available from Amazon.

Pruning: 'Deadheading or cutting back spent blooms is a great way to help encourage secondary blooms in the summer,' Katie adds. 'Then, you can leave brown stems to stand through the winter (for interest and to support wildlife), before trimming down to the base in February or March.'

Toxicity: Veronica is not reported as having any toxic effects on humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow veronica in pots?

Yes, you can grow Veronica spp. in pots. In fact, these colorful perennials are perfect for adding color and impact to container displays. Just be sure to keep pots well watered and fed during spring and summer, as they can quickly dry out and loose nutrients. For smaller containers, I would suggest growing a shorter variety, something like Veronica spicata 'Ulster Blue Dwarf', which grows no taller than one foot.

'It is a good idea to divide veronica plants every three years,' Katie says, 'which is beneficial for the overall health of the plant.

'Plants tend to start to die back in the center, which is an indication it’s time to divide. Divisions should be done in the fall when temperatures are a bit cooler.'

For more easy-to-grow blooms, check out our guide on the perennials that thrive on neglect, and fill your borders with low-effort but high-impact plants this year.

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Learning how to take forsythia cuttings in summer is one of the easiest ways to double your shrub collection (at zero cost). While softwood cuttings can be taken in spring, when forsythias are producing plenty of fresh growth, semi-ripe cuttings can be taken anytime from midsummer, and August is a perfect time to do this.

I’ve grown forsythias for many years, annually pruning several large (and unruly) specimens grown as hedges in South Wales. And, while they do require a good trim every year after flowering to keep them compact, they are otherwise fuss-free shrubs that deliver high impact in spring. I mean, who wouldn't love that yellow pop of color early in the growing season?

So, if you already know how to grow forsythia and have one in your yard, whether growing as a statement shrub or as a hedge, why not also learn how to take forsythia cuttings this summer? Follow my simple step-by-step guide to take semi-ripe cuttings in the following weeks.

How to take forsythia cuttings

Native to eastern Asia, there are approximately 13 species of forsythia, most of which can be grown from zone 5 and zone 9.

There are even dwarf varieties, such as this 'Gold Tide' forsythia, with live shrubs available now via Nature Hills.

And, so long as they enjoy a good amount of sunshine, these flowering shrubs will put on a spectacular spring show.

Here's how to take forsythia cuttings during summer.

When to take forsythia cuttings

In terms of when to propagate these flowering shrubs for full sun, semi-ripe cuttings can be taken during summer when the new growth produced this year is still flexible (i.e., bendy), but not fully hard. So, forsythia are best thought of as plants to propagate in August or September.

I would suggest doing this during a cool, mild morning, as plants tend to be more hydrated at this time of day.

While you can take cuttings at any time during these months, you probably want to avoid a day or week when there is a heatwave, which might stress the plant and result in propagation failure.

How to take forsythia cuttings

1. Before you get cracking with your forsythia cuttings, you will need to source some clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars snips from Walmart. Then, identify a handful of healthy stems on your shrub. While they are beautiful, you don't want any stems with yellow flowers. Simply snip six to eight-inch stems with leaves on, that are flexible but slightly hard, too, dropping them in a bucket of water as you work.
2. Next, take your bucket to the potting shed. Strip the foliage from each forsythia cutting, leaving just one or two leaves at the top of each stem. Make the bottom cut diagonal, slicing just underneath a leaf joint, as this is where (with any luck) roots will grow from. You may find it easier to use a handy pocket knife for this, something like this Fiskars gardening folding knife, available from Walmart.
3. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help with the development of roots for your cuttings. Simply dip the bottom inch or so of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon, shaking the excess by tapping the cutting on the side of the pot.
4. Then, you can plant the bottom of the cutting (roughly two or so inches) into small pots filled with well-drained potting mix. I find that adding a bit of grit to the potting mix is a good idea to ensure there is sufficient drainage. You can plant four or more cuttings in a single pot, but just be sure they aren't touching.
5. Give your forsythia pot/s a good watering, either using a can or soaking from the bottom. Then, place them in a cold frame or greenhouse, ensuring they are not in direct sunlight.
6. Monitor the soil every few days to ascertain whether you need to water. In August, the soil can quickly dry out, so regularly checking is a good idea.
7. Of course, it varies from cutting to cutting, but you should hopefully spot roots within four or more weeks, at which point, you can carefully lift them and move the forsythia stems into small pots of their own. You can then wait until next spring or summer (or even the following year), when the cuttings are more established, to plant them out into the yard.

FAQs

Can I root forsythia cuttings in water?

Yes, you can root forsythia in water, although this is usually done during late winter, sometime around February. Winter is a good time for rooting hardwood cuttings in water, as the plant is not focused on leaf production at this time, so for those first few weeks, all energy will be focused on root development. Simply place a handful of six-inch stems in a vase, and with any luck, small white roots will appear in a matter of weeks.

There are many other plants to take cuttings from during summer, including honeysuckle and lantana. Just be sure to monitor their hydration, as small pots can quickly dry out during summer.

And, if your cuttings fail, fear not, forsythia plants are readily available and can be found in nurseries and online. Try this 'Lynwood Gold' variety, with live plants available from Nature Hills now.

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Love them or hate them, you cannot deny that red hot pokers are plants of impact. Those red, orange or yellow blooms inject a little bit of summer drama that few other perennials can match.

Red hot pokers, or Kniphofia spp., are famously tough, the sort of plant that will tolerate a degree of neglect, and, in my experience, feeding them is not really necessary. I have seen them growing on rocky outcrops and in gravel gardens, and they seem to grow just fine without much nutrition.

If, however, your red hot poker has lacked blooms this year, a small amount of feed can help to encourage flower stem production. Here’s exactly what I know about how to grow red hot pokers, including when and how to fertilize them so they look their best from summer right into fall.

Growing red hot pokers

Red hot pokers are native to South Africa, thriving in sunny situations and dry soils. There are over 70 red hot poker varieties, most of which can be grown between zone 5 and zone 9, ranging in color from zingy yellow to deep red.

If you are looking for a new plant to grow this year, try this 'Solar Flare' yellow variety, with live plants available to order now via Amazon.

Most gardeners would consider red hot pokers as perennials that thrive on neglect, typically not needing any supplemental feeding.

However, if yours are lacking red, orange or yellow flowers, giving a (very) light feed using the right product can make a big difference.

When to fertilize red hot pokers

I have found that these tall perennial flowers tend to grow just fine without much need for fertilizer.

So, there generally isn't much need to add this as a regular monthly job on your summer gardening checklist.

Instead, I would suggest only feeding red hot pokers if there is a noticeable problem, such as they are lacking in flowers during the growing season, anytime between June and August.

A single application is all that would be needed, and feeding any more than this would be a fertilizing mistake.

How to fertilize red hot pokers

If your red hot poker is lacking in blooms, then it will respond best to a balanced or potash-high feed.

Potash, or potassium (the last number in an NPK plant fertilizer number ratio), is what fuels flower production, so you want something like a 4-6-8 or 5-5-10 formula.

For a high-potash feed, try something like this organic tomato fertilizer from Burpee, available from Amazon now, which should do the job nicely.

I would warn against using any products that are high in nitrogen, which will encourage plenty of lush green growth at the expense of flowers.

For potted kniphofias, and yes, they do surprisingly well in large containers if kept watered, I would recommend a liquid feed every two weeks during active growth.

A tomato fertilizer, like the product listed above, works perfectly here, as it’s naturally high in potash.

In fall and winter, once the foliage and flower stems have died back, I would suggest mulching, using a thick layer of well-rotted compost or leaf mold. This will help to improve the structure and quality of your soil and might reduce any need for feeding during the following season.

But, a word of warning, do not smother the crown with mulch, as kniphofias dislike sitting wet over winter, and can rot if the crown stays damp.

FAQs

Can I use bone meal to feed red hot pokers?

Bonemeal is high in phosphorus, which is one of three major nutrients that plants require for healthy growth. This can be used for any perennials, including red hot pokers, although if you want more flowers, aim for a feed that is also high in potash.

In general, red hot pokers tend to get on just fine without much need for fertilizer. So, feed sparingly only if necessary, and with an annual mulch, your plants should get on just fine without supplemental fertilizer.

For more information, see our guide on how to prune red hot pokers.

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By August, some plants begin to look a little sad or past their best. But, fortunately, there are many late-season bloomers that keep the summer show going. Not only are these plants colorful and impactful, but they are also vital for wildlife, not least for migrating hummingbirds travelling thousands of miles south as the growing season winds down.

Late-summer wildflowers and prairie stalwarts are some of my favorites. They’re the kinds of plants you see thriving in the least likely places, along roadsides, in the middle of traffic roundabouts, or sprinkled through sun-baked verges. Still blooming, still buzzing with life and requiring almost no fuss from us.

Goldenrod is one of my August favourites, lighting up with shafts of deep yellow that catch the low, late-summer sun. The same goes for tall purple asters that bloom across August and September, irresistible to hungry wildlife. So, if you want to support the hummingbird migration this summer, these seven flowers are a must. And, the good news? It’s not too late to plant them now.

7 flowers to plant in August for hummingbirds

Many hummingbird species (that overwinter in warmer US hardiness zones) begin their migration south during August. And, for this reason, adding one, two or several late-blooming flowers to attract hummingbirds is a good idea.

Here are seven flowers to plant in August for hummingbirds that will be sure to provide a nectar-rich energy boost for travelling wildlife.

1. Coral honeysuckle

Few flowers are as perfectly shaped for a hummingbird’s beak as coral honeysuckle.

Native to much of the US, its slender, trumpet-like blooms are an open invitation to nectar-seeking birds.

'Coral honeysuckle, or Lonicera sempervirens, is a tough flowering climber that can grow in almost any plot from zone 4 plus,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening.

'They thrive in pots and borders, with a preference for full sun or part shade, and can flower from spring right through to fall in ideal conditions.'

Live coral honeysuckle starter plants are available from Amazon.

2. Valerian

One of the best drought-tolerant flowering perennials, valerian is another ideal summer bloomer for pollinators, including migrating hummingbirds.

Hardy down to zone 5, valerian can grow almost anywhere. When I worked as a gardener in Italy, for example, it grew in cracks and crevice gardens, filling walls and rockeries with long-lasting color.

With regular deadheading, clumps of valerian will go on blooming late into fall.

Red valerian seeds can be ordered from Amazon, and can be sown at any time through the spring and summer months.

3. Ironweed

Ironweed, or Vernonia noveboracensis, is loved by pollinators (hummingbirds included), highly prized for its nectar-rich purple flowers.

Hardy down to zone 4, ironweed is native to the Midwest and several southern states, and will thrive in most yards, so long as it enjoys plenty of sunshine and moist but well-draining soil.

In August, ironweed is a magnet for hungry hummingbirds and native bees alike.

For the best (and most enjoyable) results, I would recommend planting it where you can easily watch hummingbirds darting in and out of the dense purple blooms.

Ironweed live plants are available from Amazon.

4. Goldenrod

In the right spot, goldenrod, also known as Solidago, can look pretty spectacular, with tall stems of gold that blaze in the August sunshine.

Goldenrod is a native North American perennial and is fully hardy down to zone 3. In meadows and wild borders, it can easily reach up to six feet tall, providing good interest at the back of garden borders.

And, the best part? Hummingbirds are known to enjoy goldenrod nectar on offer, which can last long into fall.

Live goldenrod plants can be ordered via Walmart.

5. Aster

Many different aster varieties are perfect for adding late-summer color and nectar to backyard borders.

I have grown asters in several gardens, and in mild years, I have known them to go on flowering until December.

Although, a word of advice, it is usually a good idea to stake them, as many species are a little top-heavy and can flop over in the rain.

For a native variety, try these New England asters; live plants can be ordered via Walmart.

Hardy down to zone 4, New England asters, or Symphyotrichum novae-angliae, will grow happily in sunny spots with little care needed, and migrating hummingbirds will be grateful for a spot of nectar, too.

6. Pineapple sage

I’ve grown many different types of salvias over the years, but pineapple sage is in a league of its own. It is a late-season beacon for hummingbirds and a bit of a show-off in the garden.

Hardy only to around zone 8, it’s best in milder spots or grown in big pots on the patio.

I would recommend positioning them somewhere with at least six hours of direct light if possible, in soil that drains freely.

For planting inspiration, opt for bold, maximalist displays, perhaps with orange zinnias or yellow cosmos, alongside textural ornamental grasses.

Live pineapple sage plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

7. Milkweed

Milkweed, or Asclepias spp., is an impressive plant when it comes to wildlife. Ask any gardener, and they will tell you the same: milkweed more than earns its spot when it comes to pollinators.

However, beyond growing milkweed for monarch butterflies, the nectar-rich blooms are also ideal for hungry hummingbirds as they are on the move during August.

You can grow milkweed in borders or pots, but I would suggest providing plenty of sunshine to enjoy the most blooms.

If you are keen on injecting some zingy color into your yard, try the classic butterfly weed, or Asclepias tuberosa, which can also be grown down to zone 3. I love the orange flowers, and this variety should last until October.

Live milkweed plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

Once the weather starts to dip, towards the end of August, be cautious of cutting all of your flower stems. I would recommend leaving some to stand, even if they go brown.

There will still be nectar inside brown blooms, and many plants won't produce any new stems at this stage of the growing season. And, brown flower stems are better than no flower stems for hungry migrating hummingbirds.

Our guide on the perennials to never deadhead for hummingbirds has more information.

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Bee balm is one of the best perennials you can add to your flower beds if you want to enjoy seeing lots of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds visiting your borders. A key part of annual maintenance is cutting back bee balm, but when is the best time to do this?

There are benefits to consider from taking time to cut back bee balm more than once. This includes before blooming, which can help boost the shape and create masses of the stunning firework-like flowers that both gardeners and pollinators adore, and after the flowering is over for the season.

When you grow bee balm, there are decisions you need to make about cutting back that come down to personal preference. To help you decide, let’s take a look at the options available, including the best course of action if your plants succumb to disease.

Discover when to cut back bee balm

Bee balm makes a fantastic plant for pollinators, ideal for those who aspire for a wildlife garden, and with a range of monarda varieties to choose from.

'Bee balm, as its name suggests, is also a pollinator magnet and a valuable addition to any pollinator garden,' says Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'It is a favorite of not only bees, but also butterflies and hummingbirds, and comes in a range of colors, from bold reds and pinks to cool purples and whites.'

No matter which monarda you pick as part of your backyard ideas, understanding when to cut back bee balm rewards you with increased flowering, tidier plants, and fewer fungal issues.

Let's delve into the key times of year to cut back bee balm, along with a few pointers for how to prune.

Cut back bee balm in spring

Bee balm begins to grow in spring as temperatures increase. Pruning the plant during spring offers the benefits of encouraging bushier growth and a more impressive display of blooms.

There are two ways to do this, and one is more severe than the other. The first method is to pinch back the tips of the growing stems once they reach 12 inches.

If you combine pinching back with thinning stems, you can improve air circulation and light penetration through the plant, which helps prevent powdery mildew. This is a common fungal issue that blights bee balm and appears as a white coating on the foliage.

The other option is to do what is often referred to as the 'Chelsea Chop'. This technique is named after the RHS Chelsea Flower Show, which takes place in late May, and involves cutting back perennials by around one-third to one-half.

It may sound drastic, but bee balm will quickly recover, and the reward is more compact plants, less flopping, and a great flowering display. It is possible to chop half the plants and leave the other half, which will give you a long, staggered season of blooms.

Cut back bee balm after blooming

You should deadhead bee balm throughout the flowering season to keep the plant looking tidy and blooming for a long period. Deadheading and thinning also help combat powdery mildew and prevent lots of self-seeding, for which bee balm is well-known

Once the bee balm plant dies back in late fall, you can cut it back. However, you can choose whether to cut back bee balm in the fall or wait until spring. Whichever option you pick may depend on your gardening style and ethos, but there are also a few caveats which may force your hand to opt for fall.

Cutting bee balm back in fall tidies the yard and flower bed ahead of winter and helps to limit the amount of self-seeding that may occur.

Opting for a fall cutback is recommended if your bee balm has experienced powdery mildew. In this situation, cut the stems right back to the ground and remove any debris, as powdery mildew spores can overwinter on both live and dead plant material. Always bin diseased plant material, and never use it to make compost.

Choosing to leave disease-free stems, seedheads and leaves standing over winter benefits wildlife. Birds can feed on the dried seedheads, and insects and invertebrates can shelter in the crown of the plant. Leaving the plant material in place can also protect the crown from winter colds.

If you choose this route, cut back the remaining stems to the ground in late winter or early spring with a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or garden shears, before the new growth starts to appear.

Whether you cut back bee balm in fall or spring, applying a two-inch thick layer of mulch around the plant after trimming will help to retain moisture in the soil, smother weeds, and provide nutrients as the organic material breaks down.

FAQs

Can I cut back bee balm in summer?

It is advisable to add regular deadheading of bee balm to your summer gardening checklist. However, cutting the plant back is best left until after it has finished blooming for the season.

Should I prune bee balm with powdery mildew?

If your bee balm shows signs of powdery mildew, it is advisable to trim off any affected leaves and stems or cut the entire plant to the ground. In both circumstances, as mentioned above, get rid of any affected material, never compost it, and always thoroughly disinfect any pruning tools.

We have mentioned the dreaded powdery mildew a lot above, but there are ways to stop it from troubling your bee balm.

'To help prevent powdery mildew, make sure your bee balm plants have plenty of space to grow to help promote good air circulation,' adds Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. 'Newer cultivars are also being developed that have improved powdery mildew resistance.'

Another way to prevent powdery mildew is to make sure you understand how to water plants to prevent fungal issues from occurring. This includes watering early in the day to avoid the foliage sitting wet for long periods.

Along with picking the right planting spot, proper spacing, and pruning to boost air circulation, it all combines to help control powdery mildew.

Daylilies have both a good and bad reputation. On the one hand, they are highly valued as long-lasting, reliable and tough perennials. Yet, on the other, some species, such as Hemerocallis fulva, with its fiery red-orange flowers, are considered invasive in several US states, including Florida and Virginia. Thankfully, there are many varieties, like Hemerocallis 'Stella de Oro', which strike a happy balance and are free-flowering and full of charm, but without dominating borders.

While daylilies are often considered workhorses of the garden, they can sometimes benefit from an application or two of feed. Of course, I would always advise limiting fertilizer use if it is not needed. For example, if you are currently enjoying masses of blooms, it is safe to assume that you don't need to fertilize. That said, if your daylilies are all green blades and no flowers, then a well-timed feed can work wonders, in my experience.

So, while you might know how to grow daylilies, learning how to fertilize them is also important. Here’s my guide to getting the most from these garden stalwarts, after several years of trial and error.

How to fertilize daylilies

Daylilies are some of the best perennials that thrive on neglect, typically blooming for long periods of summer with little effort needed.

However, if your daylilies are lacking orange or yellow flowers, giving a light feed during the growing season can make all the difference.

'Stella D'Oro' live daylily plants are available to order now via Amazon.

When to fertilize daylilies

For daylilies (including 'Stella D'Oro'), it is usually not necessary to follow a feeding schedule.

I have found that these perennials tend to grow just fine without regular and consistent applications of fertilizer.

Instead, I would stick to feeding daylilies just once or twice during the growing season if they are lacking in flowers. So, anytime between June and August is recommended. I would not feed them any later than August or September as the growing season begins to wind down.

If you are growing daylilies in pots, I would suggest a monthly or three-weekly feed during the growing season. This is because container plants are entirely reliant on you for nutrition.

How to fertilize daylilies

There’s nothing overly complicated about learning how to fertilize daylilies, but it is important to use the right products with suitable plant fertilizer numbers.

If your daylily clump has more leaves than flowers, then I would suggest using an organic tomato fertilizer that will boost flower production. This will have a higher potash (or potassium) value, so on the fertilizer packaging, you are looking for a high third value, such as 5-5-8.

Something like this organic tomato fertilizer from Burpee, available from Amazon now, should do the job nicely.

I would avoid using any products that are high in nitrogen, which will encourage your daylilies to produce more foliage at the expense of flowers.

If you have poor soil, I would suggest mulching in the fall or winter, once you have cut back the foliage. I find it is far easier to mulch once the yellow and brown blades have been cleared. A simple layer of well-rotted compost or leaf mold around the base of the plant keeps moisture in and will improve the quality of the soil over time.

FAQs

Can I use coffee grounds to fertilize daylilies?

Coffee grounds tend to be high in nitrogen, and so will encourage leafy green growth. If your daylilies are lacking in blooms, I would not recommend using coffee grounds. Stick to tomato feed or bloom boosters that will encourage flower production.

My best advice? Daylilies tend to get on just fine without much need for fertilizer. So, feed in moderation, sticking to a high-potassium solution, and be sure to mulch in fall and winter. This approach should suffice, and your daylilies will put on an impressive floral fireworks display.

For more information, see our guide on how to divide daylilies to manage the spread and size of your perennials this year.

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Agapanthus, sometimes referred to as African lily or Lily of the Nile, are stars of the summer garden. Over my time as a gardener, I have developed a growing appreciation for them, particularly as they tolerate heat so well (as a plant native to the Cape of South Africa).

However, while they are relatively easy to grow, they can often have an off-season in terms of flowers, sometimes producing only lush green blades without a flower stem in sight.

So, if you want plenty of those towering umbels of blue and white flowers when growing agapanthus (I mean, who wouldn't?), there are three conditions you need to get right – namely, plenty of sunshine, adequate water and the right nutrition. Here’s everything I’ve learned from trial and error about coaxing agapanthus into bloom.

Why is my agapanthus not flowering?

There are many different varieties of agapanthus, most of which are hardy down to zone 7.

There are many popular blue flower varieties, such as 'Evening Star' and 'Dawn Star', as well as many with white flowers, such as 'Albatross', all of which are impactful in backyards.

Whatever variety you grow, there are three golden rules to follow if you want to enjoy maximum blooms.

1. Lack of sunlight

Agapanthus require direct sunlight for at least six hours of the day to flower well. If they are planted in shade, the flower stems – if there are any – will become weak and extended as the plant searches for light.

So, if you are growing perennial agapanthus in a pot or border that is shady, it is a good idea to move it to a position where it receives more light.

To note, the best time to lift and transplant agapanthus is in early spring, sometime during March or April, before the flowering season is underway. Pots, on the other hand, are far easier to swap around.

If your agapanthus pot is heavy, try using something like this plant caddy on wheels, available from Amazon, which will make any container relocation far easier.

If you do move your agapanthus, it can take a year or two of good sunshine for the plant to settle and produce a good floral display. The trick, then, is to get the amount of sunshine right, but also to be patient.

2. Too much or not enough water

Watering is another balancing act when it comes to these tall perennial flowers.

Despite being drought-tolerant once established, I have found that agapanthus prefer consistently moist conditions (but never waterlogged), and this can have an impact on flower production.

In addition, long, dry spells during bud formation (usually sometime between March and May) can cause them to sadly give up on flowering altogether, so deep watering is a good idea, especially for those plants grown in pots.

In addition, they can be reluctant to bloom if subjected to drought conditions after flowering.

To ensure a good display the following year, keep plants moist until fall (usually until October), which should hopefully ensure the development of new flower buds the following year.

3. Lack of nutrients

It is important to fertilize agapanthus through spring and summer, and a lack of nutrients can often result in a few blooms.

When growing in pots, this is particularly important, as your plant will be reliant on you for its nutrition.

I would suggest using a high-potash feed (like a tomato feed), once every three weeks through the growing season, stopping around August.

In terms of plant fertilizer numbers, you are looking for a product with a high third number, so something like 5-5-10 or 3-3-5.

Try this organic tomato fertilizer from Burpee, available via Amazon.

FAQs

Should I divide congested agapanthus pots?

Yes, dividing congested agapanthus pots is a good idea. I would encourage you to be brave and reduce clumps by half (or even more), but when replanting in pots, avoid growing them in containers that are too spacious, as this will encourage leaf growth rather than blooms.

Are agapanthus frost-tolerant?

While it will depend on your variety, most agapanthus are hardy down to zone 7 or zone 8, and established clumps can withstand winter temperatures down to 14°F to 5°F (-10ºC to -15ºC), but be warned, the number of flowers may be reduced the following year if there is an extended period of frost and snow.

It is also a good idea to learn how to deadhead agapanthus by cutting down any faded flower stems.

This will help the plant concentrate on flower bud formation rather than seed production. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

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As a professional gardener, there are certain bulbs I return to every year without fail. Take ‘Apricot Beauty’ tulips, for example. These pastel peach blooms have followed me from garden to garden during different placements working in the UK and Italy. Importantly, however, popular bulb varieties, including 'Apricot Beauty', sell out fast, and gardeners seem to be ordering earlier and earlier each year. So, if you want your first choice of tulips and daffodils, now is the time to act.

While I do have my favorites, I like to use bulb selection and ordering as an opportunity to try something new each season. A bold hyacinth, a ruffled parrot tulip that feels a bit over the top. That's the joy of bulbs – they allow you to play. You can chip and change and try something a little different.

So, whether you want to try something new or stick to the classics, now is a great time to get ordering to avoid disappointment. Here, I reveal all I know about how to order bulbs in August, and seven of my must-have varieties of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and more that will inject color and joy into your spring garden.

7 flower bulbs to order in August before it is too late

Ordering spring bulbs in August is a wise move if you want the best varieties, but it does mean that knowing how to store bulbs is important, as you might not be planting them for a few weeks or even months.

I would always suggest keeping your bulbs in a cool, dry and well-ventilated spot in the garden shed. Do not, I repeat, do not, store bulbs in sealed plastic bags or leave them baking in direct sunshine.

Pest-proofing should also be a consideration. I once made the mistake of storing several hundred tulip bulbs in a cardboard box in a garden shed in Wales, only to return and find the local mice had enjoyed a weekend-long feast.

So, learn from me, find a cool spot that is ventilated, using solid trays or baskets that are kept off the ground. This approach will save you a lot of heartbreak.

Here are seven high-impact bulbs to order in August.

1. Hyacinth 'Purple Sensation'

I’ve grown many hyacinth varieties over my career. Years ago, when working in South Wales, we lined the path to the kitchen garden with rows of ‘City of Bradford’ hyacinths. Not only did these lilac-blue flowers look impressive, but the scent in the veg beds was unmatched.

‘Purple Sensation’ is another popular variety that I return to. The color is that perfect royal purple, and the scent, as with all hyacinths, is an ideal late winter accompaniment.

Order 'Purple Sensation' hyacinth bulbs from Burpee now, while stocks last.

I would usually plant hyacinths anytime in October or November, but don't worry too much about sticking rigidly to this time frame. So long as the bulbs are firm and they are in the ground by the end of December, you should be fine.

2. Pheasant’s Eye daffodil

If you are looking for one of the best bulbs for naturalizing in a lawn or meadow, the pheasant's eye daffodil, or Narcissus poeticus, is a good choice.

Pheasant’s Eye daffodil bulbs are available to order from Nature Hills.

This narcissus has simple, clean white flowers with tiny red eyes that look impressive when planted in drifts across a backyard.

Plant them anytime from September, aiming to get the bulbs as deep into the ground as possible (but aiming for at least four inches).

I’ve always liked pairing them with dark snakeshead fritillaries for a meadow-like mix that combines dark purple and ivory white pops.

3. Tulip 'Orange Emperor'

There’s nothing shy about ‘Orange Emperor.’ While there are many different tulip types and colors, this simple and impactful orange option seemingly glows against fresh green spring foliage, which is why I have returned to use it again and again.

They flower in mid-spring and go particularly well with darker purples like ‘Queen of Night’ for contrast.

You can plant them anytime from September through January, but just be sure to learn how to store tulip bulbs correctly, ideally in a dark, well-ventilated room that is pest-free.

'Orange Emperor' tulip bulbs can be ordered from the Garden State Bulb Store via Amazon.

4. Crown imperial fritillaries

While imperial fritillaries, or Fritillaria imperialis, are undoubtedly good-looking, they do have a downside. They are often labelled as some of the worst-smelling plants, although, with flowers like this, they get away with it.

Crown imperial fritillaries are available to order now via Burpee.

Those towering stems (that can reach upwards of three or four feet) are topped with flamboyant orange or yellow bells that look like something from a painting.

In terms of how to plant imperial fritillaries, I always recommend digging deep, about eight inches or more, and laying them on their side with a handful of grit underneath to prevent rot within the bulb.

It is also important to note that these bulbs are toxic, so when handling, use something like these long-sleeve gardening gloves, available from Amazon.

5. Daffodil 'Cheerfulness'

There are many different bulb planting trends every year, but I always come back to multi-headed daffodils. A little old-fashioned, a little traditional, but daffodil varieties like ‘Cheerfulness’ are, in my opinion, hard to beat, offering a winning combination of scent and floral beauty.

As you can see from the image here, each stem carries clusters of white-cream flowers with a heady fragrance (perfect for adding to vases indoors).

I have grown them in borders and pots, but I find containers far better, as you can then move them around, from the patio table to the steps by the front door, or wherever you might want to enjoy their scent.

They flower slightly later in spring, which makes them perfect for extending the daffodil season.

For a different multi-headed variety, try this white and peach 'Kapiti' daffodil, with bulbs available to order now from Burpee.

For an earlier-flowering container companion, try planting these copper colored 'Orange Monarch' crocus, with bulbs available from Nature Hills.

6. Tulip 'Black Parrot'

I adore fringed tulip varieties, and Tulipa ‘Black Parrot’ is one of the best. The deep maroon, near-black color adds a bit of drama to any spring display, working particularly well with coppers and pinks, some of which I have listed here.

'Black Parrot' also has good stem length, so it is a good option if you are looking to snip a few blooms to use for vases indoors.

You can plant tulips anytime between October and January, aiming for about six inches deep in borders or pots.

Tulipa ‘Black Parrot’ bulbs are available to order now via Nature Hills.

7. Tulip 'Princess Irene'

Another tulip variety that is no shrinking violet, ‘Princess Irene’ has copper-orange petals with dark, almost purple markings at the base of the flower, which look good both outside and in a vase.

This variety blooms from mid to late spring, so it is a good option for containers that you might want to erupt in a joyful and colorful display for the month of May.

But, as with all of these varieties, popular tulips tend to sell out fast, so make sure to add this to your list of bulbs to order in August.

Tulip 'Princess Irene' bulbs are available now via Burpee.

If you haven’t guessed already, I love rich tones and maximalist themes in the spring garden. All those Venetian colors of purples, oranges and burnished reds.

Whatever your preferences, be bold and play with different colors and shapes. Just don’t wait too long... the best varieties sell out fast.

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August is the perfect time to take cuttings of many popular shrubs and perennials. By this point in the growing season, all of your plants will have produced a good amount of healthy green growth, most of which should be semi-ripe (in other words, not too soft but not too woody or hard). It is this growth that is perfect for propagation during August.

As a professional gardener, I have spent countless hours propagating plants in both private and public gardens where I have worked (and for myself, of course). From fragrant pelargoniums growing in pots to reliable perennials such as verbena and salvia, summer cuttings are not to be missed.

So, if you are keen to have a few more rosemary or lavender plants in your yard, all without spending any money, grab yourself a pair of snips, some pots and soil, and get to work in the garden shed this month. Here, I reveal seven plants to propagate in August to add to your summer gardening checklist, with tips and tricks I have learned along the way.

7 plants to propagate in August: tips for taking cuttings

Learning how to take plant cuttings is remarkably easy, but you do need to get the basics right. You'll need clean, sharp snips, and I tend to take a bucket with some fresh water around with me, so you can keep cuttings hydrated as you work.

As with all cuttings, roots will form from leaf nodes (or joints), so you want to snip just below a joint, and then strip the bottom leaves to create a clean cutting, with just one or two leaves atop the stem.

I would also recommend using a gritty, well-draining compost when potting and placing your cuttings in a warm, bright spot, but out of direct sun. And, with any luck, within a few weeks, you should spot some little white roots forming.

Here are seven of my favorite plants to propagate in August.

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is one of the best flowering shrubs for full sun. I have grown it in many different gardens where I have worked, and even in challenging, rocky, poor soils in Tuscany, it seemingly thrived with very little attention.

Propagate rosemary during August, trimming half a dozen stems that are still green but also just firm enough to give you a solid cutting.

Try using this highly rated Fiskars pruning knife, available now from Amazon, which is perfect for snipping and stripping stems.

Choose non-flowering shoots if you can, and snip lengths to about four to six inches long. I strip the lower leaves, leaving just a few at the tip, and often dip the cut base into rooting powder before placing it in free-draining soil.

You can add six or so cuttings to a container, but they will need potting on when the roots begin to develop. And, by next year, your young aromatic herbs can be planted out into borders and pots.

If you are worried about woody rosemary plants, taking cuttings is a good insurance policy. Or, alternatively, you can order live rosemary plants via Walmart.

2. Lantana

Lantana is considered an invasive perennial in several US states, including Florida and Texas, so always do your homework before taking cuttings or adding one to your yard.

Choose fresh green shoots that haven’t flowered yet, and cut four-inch sections just below a leaf node. Strip the lower leaves and plant in a gritty mix.

While rooting hormone is not always needed, I have found it can help with propagation success rates. To use it, simply dip the bottom inch of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon, shaking off any excess.

Lantana is perennial in zone 8 plus, and loves sunny, warm situations. However, for young lantana cuttings, keep them out of the harsh afternoon sun whilst they establish.

Within six or so weeks, cuttings should produce tiny white roots, and you can pot them individually. I would suggest keeping these protected in a cold frame or greenhouse during winter, and then moving outdoors in spring.

3. Potentilla

Potentilla is an underrated family of flowering shrubs and perennials, in my humble opinion. I am a big potentilla fan, having grown them on several occasions.

I adore Potentilla nepalensis 'Miss Wilmott's Ghost', which produces masses of pink blooms with crimson-red eyes.

However, it is only the shrubby potentillas that can be propagated in August. So, if you (or a gardening friend) have a specimen that is established, now is a great time to take cuttings.

Drainage is really important, so make sure to use seed and cuttings soil, like this from Amazon, to prevent your cuttings from rotting in waterlogged pots.

There are hundreds of cultivars, all ranging in color from white to pink, red to orange. Or for a yellow shrub option, try this 'Goldfinger' potentilla, with live plants available from Walmart, which will tolerate poor soil and flower for much of the summer.

4. Ribes

Ribes, also referred to as flowering currants, are ideal for injecting some color into the yard during March, April and May.

August is a good moment to take cuttings, as the year’s growth has ripened enough to hold its shape.

All you need to do is snip semi-ripe stems, around six to eight inches long. You can root them in pots of gritty compost, keeping them moist but not waterlogged, and they’ll be ready to plant out next spring.

While shrub propagation does require a little patience, given time, this is a great way to fill out hedgerows or the back of borders.

There are many attractive varieties of this spring-flowering shrub, such as Ribes sanguineum 'Albescens', which is one of my go-to plants. With fragrant pink flowers that open on long branches, stems can be snipped and used in vases in spring alongside daffodils and tulips, if you fancy having a go at some floral artistry.

5. Lavender

Lavender is perfect for taking cuttings in August, particularly if you give them a little trim after flowering this month. Two birds with one stone, after all.

To propagate lavender, choose fresh, silver-green shoots from the outer edges of the plant, avoiding any that have gone overly woody or that have flowers.

With lavender, you can use rooting powder, but I have found it doesn't really need it, and will often root happily on its own.

Just remember that this is a Mediterranean herb, so drainage is key. Use a gritty compost, combining grit, sand or perlite, before placing cuttings in a warm, bright location that avoids full midday sun.

And, with any luck, by spring, you’ll have young lavender plants ready to fill borders or pots.

If you want to try adding a new variety to your plot this summer, try these live French lavender starter plants, which can be ordered from Walmart.

6. Forsythia

Forsythia might not be your first thought when thinking about plants to propagate in August, but this yellow flowering shrub is suitable for taking semi-ripe cuttings this month.

It is a good idea to prepare a pot filled with soil (amended with sand or perlite to improve drainage) prior to taking your forsythia cuttings.

Then, you can snip six-inch stems from this year's growth, removing the lower leaves, before dipping the bottom in rooting hormone.

Next, grab your pre-prepared pot, inserting the cuttings in holes made in the soil (you can use a pencil or dibber, like this wooden model available via Amazon).

One tip is to place your forsythia cuttings pot inside a plastic bag and seal it with an elastic band. This greenhouse-like structure will prevent these cuttings from drying out, which can improve success rates.

The cuttings should have roots after about six to eight weeks, and you can transplant them to a larger pot once roots have developed.

And, if your cuttings fail, do not fret. You can always stock up on new plants, like this Forsythia 'Lynwood', with live starter plants available from Nature Hills.

7. Sage

Sage is one of my favorite herbs to propagate. Tough, reliable, and it leaves your hands smelling rather herbal.

I have taken sage cuttings on numerous occasions, most recently in Italy, which was to replace old and woody specimens in the kitchen garden.

It is crucial to prune these herbs regularly to prevent them from going leggy, so be sure to remember to add sage pruning to your spring gardening checklist.

You can take sage cuttings throughout the summer months, either in June, July or August, via soil propagation or in water, using something like these propagation vases available from Amazon.

Just be sure to change the water every few days if you are attempting to root cuttings in water, to encourage your stems to develop little roots in record time.

Whatever plants you decide to propagate, just be sure to keep an eye on watering during those hot summer days. You don't want the soil (or vase of water) to dry out, so monitor this on a regular basis.

For more inspiration, see our guide on vegetables to plant in August, and keep your kitchen garden productive and full of crops this year.

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Each summer, monarch butterflies begin an extraordinary journey. They travel 3,000 miles across parts of the U.S. and Canada all the way to central Mexico. Undeniably, an impressive feat, and one of the great wonders of insect and animal migration.

But this miracle is in danger. Monarch numbers have been in a very sharp decline in recent years. Alarmingly so. And habitat loss is one of the biggest culprits. Luckily, there’s something simple every gardener can do: plant milkweed. Milkweed is the host plant for the insect’s caterpillars, but habitat loss from a combination of agricultural development, wildfires and urban sprawl has seen this plant seemingly disappear in recent decades. Where once it flourished across North America, it is now impossible to find.

So, if the decline of this species is a worry to you (and it should be), and you want to do one thing to help the monarch butterfly migration and population, then planting one or two milkweeds in a corner of the yard, or even in a pot, will make a real difference. If more backyards allowed space for this native plant, the collective impact for monarchs could be game-changing.

Growing milkweed for monarch butterflies

One recent study by the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation revealed that the overwintering population of monarchs found along the California coast and in Arizona had plummeted by 96% from 2023 to 2024.

Of course, this is alarming, but the good news is that insect populations can quickly respond to environmental and habitat changes.

So, if you want to support wildlife garden ideas in your plot this year, growing milkweed for monarch butterflies is vital.

Habitat loss has greatly impacted monarch butterflies

'One of the biggest reasons that monarch butterfly numbers are dropping is due to a reduction of habitat, especially the loss of our native milkweeds, which is the only host plant for the species,' says Kylee Baumle, butterfly expert and writer, based in Northwest Ohio.

'Of course, the stats are alarming, but the monarch is an extremely resilient insect, which has recovered in the past,' Kylee says.

'All of this depends not only on the restoration of their native habitat in the US and Canada, but also on the weather. All stages of their life cycle are affected by weather trends, including winds, temperature, drought, etc. If the weather is favorable during their breeding season, they can recover from lower numbers, too.'

Planting milkweed in backyards

While spring is ideal, you can still plant milkweed at any time. In fact, getting these native plants in the ground now allows the plants time to settle before the cool weather arrives in fall. And, as perennials, they should return next spring.

Choose a milkweed variety that suits your region and US hardiness zone. For example, swamp milkweed, or Asclepias incarnata, has stunning pink blooms, seen in the image above, and can be grown down to zone 3, thriving in damper soils (as you might have guessed by the name).

The classic orange butterfly weed, or Asclepias tuberosa, can also be grown down to zone 3 but prefers a dry and sunny spot.

If you are planting in containers, just be sure to use a large enough pot and give them plenty of sun on a patio or terrace, and leave the flowers to stand through to fall.

You might not see monarch caterpillars this week, but rest assured, if you grow milkweed, the butterflies will come.

Live milkweed plants are available now via Amazon.

And, the good news? Milkweed is not just good for monarch butterflies. If you leave the flowerheads to go to seed, they will be visited by orioles and redwing blackbirds during October and November.

For more information, see our guide on how to attract orioles to your yard.

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In the first winter after moving to rural Connecticut, Pom Shillingford stood at her kitchen window each morning and stared out at very little. There were no flower beds. No hedges. Just a barren scene of bare earth and old, haunting trees pressing in against a wide, empty sky. 'There was very little in the way of a garden, it was just grass,' she remembers.

'All winter, I looked out from that kitchen window, thinking about what I wanted to see. A garden of my own, made from nothing.' Every sightline, every idea began from that view. 'The whole garden was imagined and designed from that kitchen window,' Pom says. What began as bare soil that first winter would eventually become a deeply personal English flower garden. A nostalgic, romantic space, full of tumbling sweet peas and dinner plate dahlias.