It is always beneficial to have your pruning shears close at hand when you are out gardening. The best way to keep them safe, secure, and nearby is with a holster. If you use a pruning shear holster, it’ll be quick and easy to reach for your pruners, whatever the job.

Once you find the best pruners for you, look after them. That includes not just leaving them on the ground when you’re not using them, or throwing them in a bucket or trug. All too many gardeners have unwittingly misplaced their pruners by forgetting where they put them, or lost them to the compost heap in a bucket of garden material.

Pruning shear holsters are not just practical, but also stylish. Leather holsters (like this sheath on The Home Depot made from thick USA leather) are strong, look good, and feel comfortable, and you can get ones that also carry additional tools, like this three-pocket holster from Amazon – perfect for carrying a portable tool sharpener and gardening knife too, for example. Alternatively, canvas or rubber pruning shear holsters offer a sturdy, flexible, budget-friendly option.

The best pruning shears holsters will have a metal belt clip so it stays attached to you at all times. However, some offer a bit more. This gardening holster on Amazon is a full belt, with three functional pockets for tools and a removable pouch. Or you can opt for a gardening tool belt with lots of carrying space for tools, gloves, and other essentials.

In a holster or belt, you can carry both your pruning shears and pruning snips – perfect if you want to switch between general and precise trimming, such as going from deadheading or picking crops to cutting back perennials or pruning shrubs.

If you’ve just treated yourself to some new pruning tools, or want to stop losing any essential gardening tools again, here are some of the best pruning shear holsters to keep them attached to you while you are out in the garden.

To keep your tools in the best condition, you should also know how to clean and sharpen pruning shears. Well-maintained pruning tools make trimming easier and won’t damage your precious plants. Things like a sharpening stone, flat metal file, or whetstone are garden tool sharpening essentials, along with lubricating oil or protective spray to apply to the blades to prevent rust. Look after your pruning shears well, and they’ll give you many years of enjoyable cutting.

If you carry your tools on a belt, why not look for practical small garden tools — those that are compact but mighty. Small enough to carry easily and versatile enough for lots of different jobs.

The likes of a hori hori knife and micro garden snips perfectly fit into this category. They can be kept in a protective holster on a tool belt, close at hand for lots of pruning, harvesting, or weeding.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

You need a pruning saw for thicker stems and branches that are too big for pruners or loppers but do not require a chainsaw. You will discover lots of such wood when pruning trees and large shrubs in fall or winter.

Different pruning saws have curved or straight blades, and those blades are either folding or fixed. Each has pros and cons. Picking the best pruning saw depends on how much pruning you’ll be doing each year, the size of the wood, and whether you need to access tight spaces.

The best pruning tools fit your needs and budget. When you pick the right one and know how to use a pruning saw, it becomes an essential gardening tool for years to come. Below, we look at some of the best pruning saws on the market.

Best Folding Pruning Saw

I have always had a folding pruning saw in my pruning toolkit. I was given an older FELCO folding pruning saw when I started as a professional gardener – and that tool lasted me for many years. Now I have upgraded to a FELCO 602 and think it is one of the best pruning saws you can get.

A folding pruning saw has a blade that folds into the handle. They save storage space, are compact enough to carry in a tool bag or attach to a tool belt, and are great for general pruning around the garden. If you don’t have lots of shed storage space, you can’t go wrong with a folding pruning saw.

I have used my folding pruning saw for many different tasks over the years, including pruning fruit trees and ornamental trees and cutting thicker stems when rejuvenating old shrubs.

The FELCO 602 has a 4.7-inch chrome-plated blade that is designed to reduce friction and cut through branches easily. Its pull-cut teeth are also heat-treated to stay sharper for longer. As with all FELCO tools, all parts are replaceable, including the blade, so this tool can last for many years.

If you want a general-purpose pruning saw you can rely on each winter pruning season, this is a great option. At just 160g, it is light to use for long periods. The soft-touch coating on the handle makes pruning comfortable, and a contoured grip keeps you in control when cutting.

A good alternative I have also used and would recommend is the Stihl PR 16 folding saw available on Amazon. It is virtually the same as the FELCO in terms of length and weight, with sharp, three-sided chrome-plated Japanese teeth that glide through thick branches up to 65mm.

The only downside I have found with folding pruning saws is that the safety catch can be cumbersome. It always starts off stiff when you get a new tool, but it does loosen over time. It is an efficient opening and locking mechanism, but some brands do it better than others, so you may want to try out a tool before committing.

Best Curved Blade Fixed Pruning Saw

A fixed-blade pruning saw, as the name suggests, has a permanently secured blade and handle. They take up more space in a tool shed – but do have a hole in the handle to hang the tool if you want to declutter a shed – and aren’t as easy to carry around the garden in a bag or on a belt, but that extra size does mean more power.

If you do a lot of heavy pruning, a fixed-blade pruning saw is worth the investment. The Corona RazorTOOTH pruning saw is a powerful choice for pruning tree branches up to eight inches in diameter. The high-carbon Japanese steel blade has triple-hardened teeth to cut powerfully and stay sharp.

This pruning saw has a long 14-inch blade that cuts on the pull stroke. The extra length not only helps cut thicker wood, but the curved blade is great for cutting lower or higher branches and reduces bending and stretching.

The tool may look unwieldy if you’ve never used a fixed blade pruning saw before. However, I think it is suitable for gardeners of any level. The tool feels lightweight, and it has an ergonomic, non-slip grip that keeps you feeling in constant control while pruning even tough wood.

Best Straight Blade Fixed Pruning Saw

Curved blades help with power, but straight blades are best for precision. A straight-blade pruning saw is a great option for precise trimming of smaller branches between shoulder and waist height. It is also a better tool for tight spaces, where you need to trim at more awkward angles.

Japanese pruning tools are very popular nowadays. The brands Niwaki and Okatsune make some of the best pruners, and there are quality Japanese hedge shears and loppers available.

This Saboten Japanese pruning saw is also made with the same quality craftsmanship, with a straight Japanese high-carbon 240mm steel blade. It has a premium look, with a wooden grip – rather than the rubber ones you see on most Western pruning tools – and a wooden sheath to store the saw in.

The blade is fixed in place on the Saboten Japanese pruning saw, but you can get folding straight-blade pruning saws. That includes the FELCO 602 and this ARS folding turbocut saw on Amazon, which has a 5-3/4-inch folding chrome-plated blade. It is sharp, compact, and portable, plus the blade is replaceable.

Best Premium Pruning Saw

A pruning saw with a curved blade should be your go-to tool for cutting branches lower down or higher up. Whether that means pruning shrubs at the base or trimming higher tree branches, a curved blade is better and gives you a better purchase for efficiently pruning thicker wood.

Also, a good rule of thumb is that longer blades can cut thicker wood. The Silky Professional Series Sugoi pruning saw has a 16.5-inch curved blade capable of cutting branches up to 8.3 inches in diameter. The razor-sharp teeth are set at four angles along the blade for progressive cutting throughout each stroke, delivering strength from start to finish.

The rubber handle is designed to offer a strong grip even in wet or cold conditions. The tool comes with a protective sheath that has a locking mechanism to stop the saw from slipping out.

It is a powerful, professional Japanese gardening tool. Indeed, Sugoi actually means ‘incredible’ in Japanese. The blades can be resharpened or replaced; however, there is no denying it is an expensive option for any home gardener.

A more budget-friendly alternative is the Corona RazorTOOTH pruning saw, or the Fiskars Pro pruning saw, available at Lowe’s, if you want a strong curved TaperTooth blade that folds away for convenient storage.

There are two other categories of best pruning saws to consider. You can also get electric pruning saws and pole pruners, which offer specific benefits in terms of ease of use and reach.

These are beneficial in certain circumstances, but not all gardeners will have the need or budget to have one in their shed. Most can fulfil all their trimming needs with any of the tools above.

Electric pruners and pole pruners both have either shear or saw heads (or you can get extendable pruners with both for versatility) and can be crucial winter garden tools for all manner of trimming if you have a large garden.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

We have officially entered fall, but in many parts of the US, mild temperatures can continue for a few more weeks. And while some summer plants are beginning to slow down, lantana is usually still putting on a rather remarkable show, covered in clusters of brilliantly colored flowers that seem determined to keep summer going for just a little bit longer.

I particularly like the fiery varieties at this time of year. ‘Dallas Red’, typically grown in zones 8 to 11, produces vibrant clusters of orange and red flowers that provide a welcome pop of color as the rest of the yard begins its gradual transition into fall. After months of growth, however, even the toughest lantana can benefit from a little attention to keep it looking its best.

Knowing how to grow lantana and what to do with lantana in October will depend largely on where you live. In warmer regions, plants can have weeks or even months of flowering still to come, whereas gardeners farther north might already be thinking about the first frost and whether to overwinter container-grown plants. And, if you want to add more late-season color to your yard, its not too late, as live lantana plants are available from Walmart.

1. Watering

October can be deceptive when it comes to watering. Mornings might feel noticeably cooler in northerly regions, but a lantana sitting in full sun can still dry out remarkably quickly by the end of a warm day, particularly when growing in pots by the front door, for example.

Lantana is fairly drought-tolerant perennial once established, so plants growing in the ground shouldn't need constant attention.

As mentioned, however, container-grown lantana will need checking more regularly. Push a finger into the potting mix and water thoroughly if it feels dry, allowing excess water to escape from the drainage holes. As temperatures fall, growth will begin to slow and you can gradually reduce watering accordingly.

For easy watering, try this garden hose from Walmart.

2. Deadheading

A quick tidy of your lantana plants every week or so will keep plants looking much fresher.

Using clean pruners, snip off spent flower clusters just above a healthy pair of leaves. Try these Felco pruners from Walmart if you need a new pair.

There is another good reason to do this. Lantana camara is considered one of the most invasive species in the world. Birds can spread the seeds contained in its berries, so, by removing spent blooms before berries develop can help to limit unwanted self-seeding in your yard and beyond.

Deadheading isn't essential for all modern lantana varieties however. For example, 'New Gold' is totally sterile cultivar.

'New Gold' live lantana plants can be ordered via Amazon now.

3. Pruning

Lantana in October can be looking a little unruly. After an entire summer of growth, long stems can sprawl across paths, flop over the sides of containers or begin to muscle in on neighboring plants.

You can shorten particularly long or wayward stems, cutting just above a healthy pair of leaves to encourage a neater shape.

Keep this fairly restrained, however. October isn't the time for a dramatic renovation prune, particularly in regions like zone 4 where cooler weather is only a few weeks away.

4. Stop feeding

During spring and summer, a container-grown lantana can benefit from occasional feeding to support all that vigorous growth and flowering, but there comes a point when encouraging more growth does more harm than good. That point is now.

In warmer regions, you might continue to use feed for a few weeks yet, particularly if plants are still growing well. But, in cooler zones, I would stop feeding.

5. Think about Overwintering

What happens next depends very much on where you garden. In warmer regions (like zone 10), lantana can behave as a perennial, surviving winter outdoors and keeping much of its green growth.

In colder zones, however, the first hard frost will usually spell the end for plants left outside. This is no bad thing if you treat lantana as an annual, of course.

But, if your lantana is growing in a container, October is a good time to decide whether you want to overwinter it. Before bringing any plant indoors to a greenhouse, you want to give the leaves and stems a thorough inspection. Whiteflies and spider mites can easily go unnoticed outside, and the last thing you want is to introduce them to sheltered greenhouse.

What to Shop

October doesn't have to signal the end of flowers in the yard. While lantana can keep warmer gardens filled with color well into fall, there are plenty of hardy perennials that are only just reaching their peak.

For another late-season job, see our guide to caring for asters in September, with simple tips to keep plants healthy and flowering for as long as possible.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If there's one houseplant task to get right in fall, it's watering. Cooler temperatures and lower sunlight levels mean soil is drying out much slower this season, ultimately meaning your plants need less watering.

It's an essential part of fall houseplant care, where our precious indoor plants are susceptible to root rot, pest damage, and fungal diseases from too much water. At the same time, you don't want to pull back on watering altogether. Allowing plants to sit in drought through fall can cause dehydration and cause them to fade away.

Striking the balance can be tricky to figure out, but with the right houseplant care kit to hand you'll soon master this skill. Here, I talk through everything you need to know about identifying when to water your plants, how to do it, and the tools I often rely on to avoid watering mistakes this season (this Amazon soil moisture meter is a good place to start).

When to Water Houseplants in Fall

The best lesson I ever learned about watering houseplants is that you should abandon a set schedule. Environmental and seasonal factors constantly change how frequently houseplant soil is drying out and therefore how much water your plant needs. Instead, I always check the soil before picking up my watering can.

You can either use a soil moisture meter (which is also available from Walmart) or feel the soil with your finger. The crucial part is to not trust the moisture level of soil surface only, you need to check how wet the soil is further down to determine whether the roots have access to moisture.

In fact, it's a common fall problem for houseplant soil to form a crust on the surface, generally from indoor heating drying it out too quickly. It doesn't necessarily mean the soil below is dry and there may actually be moisture trapped beneath. It can also be the result of a build-up of salts and minerals from tap water and summer fertilizer.

If this is the case, I recommend removing the top layer, flushing the soil, and applying a fresh top layer. You may also want to consider not using tap water for houseplants to avoid this happening again.

Generally speaking, you should water houseplants once the top 1-2 inches have dried out. However, I encourage doing some deeper research into the specific needs of your plants – thirsty houseplants will need much more water than those who tolerate drought, like succulents and cacti.

How to Water Houseplants in Fall

There are a few methods you can use to water houseplants in fall.

Of course, you can use a houseplant watering can (one like this from Amazon with a narrow spout helps reach the base of your plants). Though, this is often the method most likely to result in overwatering.

Bottom watering houseplants is more effective in terms of hydrating plant roots without oversaturating them. This requires a plant pot with a saucer (like this ceramic one from Wayfair), where plants soak up just as much water as needed. A self-watering planter has a space for a reservoir which works in the same way (Amazon has sets of self-watering planters so you can use them for your entire indoor garden).

You can also use the deep watering method, soaking houseplants in a sink for 20 minutes before allowing them to drain. In fall, you'll only need to do this every other week. This will allow houseplants to fully hydrate, but take care not to do this with the houseplants most susceptible to root rot – with soil drying out slowly this season, too much water in the pot can put them at risk.

There are also some watering gadgets that can help keep houseplants watered to the right level in fall. A houseplant irrigation system (like this from Amazon) will water plants when it detects dry soil, so you don't have to remember to.

Self-watering spikes (like these from Walmart) are also handy, though I would recommend these for summer more so than fall. They provide a gradual release of moisture, ensuring plants don't dry out.

What to Shop

Alongside adjusting watering, there are indoor plant jobs many gardeners forget to do in fall. This includes checking underneath foliage for pests and moving houseplants away from heat sources.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

If you have shrubs, trees, and hedges in your yard, you'll need a good pair of loppers as part of your pruning toolkit. Loppers are long-handled tools designed to cut thicker stems than pruning shears and are primarily used to trim overgrown shrubs and smaller tree branches.

Loppers have either bypass or anvil blades, which are better for live or dead material, respectively. Different types of loppers also have telescopic handles to prune harder-to-reach places or ratchet mechanisms for additional cutting power. The best pruning tool for you depends on what you’ll be cutting, whether you need extra reach, and your budget.

This guide to the best loppers highlights the best options on the market. Each has features to help you tackle a wide range of pruning jobs around the garden and the potential to be a go-to tool for years to come.

Best Bypass Loppers

Most gardeners need a standard set of bypass loppers for the bulk of their pruning. If you have a property with shrubs and small ornamental or fruit trees, a strong, durable tool with bypass blades will be the best loppers for you. There are lots of these on the market, but few (if any) do it better than the Fiskars PowerGear2 loppers.

A bypass pair of loppers has a sharp, curved upper blade that glides past a lower blade. It is the best blade type for cutting living stems or branches without damaging or crushing them.

The Fiskars PowerGear2 loppers can prune branches up to two inches thick with their fully hardened steel blade. To make cutting easier, a low-friction titanium coating ensures the blade cuts smoothly through stems and PowerGear technology optimizes the tool’s cutting power.

It all adds up to it being a powerful tool for pruning shrubs, trees, or hedges with ease. And the trimming should be comfortable, as the loppers have ergonomic steel handles with soft grips.

Best Extendable Loppers

By design, the longer handles of loppers make them useful for reaching awkward spots, such as the center of dense shrubs to reach tricky stems or higher branches, and for cutting thicker stems than even the best pruners.

For further extended reach, extendable or telescopic loppers allow you to get even further into tall shrubs or trees, without needing to scale a ladder to prune from.

The Corona ComfortGEL extendable loppers have bypass blades for cutting live or dead branches up to 1 ½-inches in diameter and handles that extend from 28 to 35 inches. The extra reach allows you to work safely from the ground and feel in control when pruning higher branches.

The handles have an ergonomic shape and cushioning gel material to prevent any pain or fatigue when trimming. While many telescopic pruning tools have handles that extend via a twisting system, these have lightweight steel handles with easy-flip latches to extend and lock them in place.

A pricier alternative that can cut branches up to two inches thick is this Zenport telescoping ratchet bypass lopper at The Home Depot. The ratchet mechanism gives more cutting power and the handles can be extended up to 35 inches via a mechanism where you press a button and lock the handle into one of six holes.

Best Anvil Loppers

An anvil blade has a single cutting blade that meets a flat metal base. It works great at cutting thicker or tougher material. However, anvil loppers don’t make clean cuts and bruise live, delicate plant tissue, so they are suitable only for cutting dead stems or branches.

It is a pruning mistake to use anvil loppers on living tissue; it damages stems and can leave plants susceptible to pests or diseases.

If you regularly deal with lots of deadwood on your property, a set of anvil loppers may be an essential gardening tool. They can do the brunt of the hard work rather than relying on a single pair of bypass loppers for everything.

The Tabor Tools anvil loppers make light work of dead wood up to two inches thick. The tool has carbon steel blades with a non-stick coating and extra-long 30-inch handles for extra leverage. The loppers also have a compound cutting system for extra power.

With good care, the tool should last you many years. But you can get replacement cutting blades if needed.

Best Ratchet Loppers

For the toughest pruning tasks, ratchet loppers help make cutting easier. These tools have a ratchet mechanism that divides the cut into shorter steps. It amplifies the force, making it easier to cut thicker branches.

The Spear & Jackson 8290RS loppers feature carbon steel anvil blades for cutting branches up to two inches in diameter. The ratcheting action cuts in four short steps rather than a single action, increasing the force and making trimming tougher deadwood much simpler.

The lightweight aluminum handles are telescopic, ranging from 27 to 41 inches to reach taller growth, and have soft, non-slip grips for enjoyable pruning.

If you invest in good tools, you want to make sure to look after them. That includes cleaning garden tools after use, sharpening pruning tools so they work efficiently, and storing them away properly. Any cutting implements need sharpening and oiling before you store tools for winter to keep them in good condition. Any time you use them over the winter months, clean and oil them again before putting them back in the shed.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

That tricky ground under trees presents so many challenges. Firstly, there's shade to contend with, all year round if evergreen trees are involved. Then, with all those roots competing for nutrients and water there's little left for anything else. Add to that the fact that a tree's canopy is a very effective umbrella, keeping rainwater from reaching the soil below and you have a rather inhospitable spot for most plants.

Nevertheless, there are options. And one of the best and most interesting planting solutions is heuchera. Also known as coral bells, I love these tough ground cover plants for their year-round foliage, which comes in a rainbow of shades, from deep purple-black to pale apricot, zesty lime green, and claret. An added bonus are the delicate little flower spikes they send up over summer.

While heuchera is without a double one of the best plants for growing under trees, that doesn't mean narrowing down your selection will be easy. If I had to play favorites with heucheras, I might have to opt for 'Dressed Up Bal Gown' from Plant Addicts. With its ruffled, scalloped leaves in chartreuse green, it's far from the retiring plant personalities we usually associate with foliage plants. Preferring a spot in light rather than deep shade, it's one I nestle in at the further reaches of my tree canopies, where it will brighten up the scene. Here I share more of my top heuchera picks, and plenty of practical tips for planting and growing.

How To Plant Heucheras Under Trees

There's no denying it, planting under trees can be a tough job. When you're digging holes for your new heucheras, you need to find the gaps between the roots without causing damage to the tree, which can be tricky and time consuming.

I recommend arming yourself with all the comforts of the gardening world before you begin. Good padding, in the form of this Burgon & Ball kneeler from Lowes is vital, as is a small, sharp tool like the stainless steel transplanter from Burpee.

If you're tackling a large planting project in quite deep shade near to mature trees, in my experience the ground can be dry and hard. In which case, a garden auger drill bit, available at Amazon, could be useful. You can attach it to a cordless drill for some powerful, targeted help with hole-digging (as always, proceed with caution – you still need to find the gaps in the roots rather than drill through them!).

A quick note on tree roots and which will tolerate a degree of disturbance. Every tree is different, so do check before you dig. Acers, for example, tend to resent any kind of root disturbance as they have such an intricate and relatively shallow system. Those with deeper roots tolerate more planting, closer to the tree itself.

At this time of year it's a good idea to soak your planting areas well beforehand. Damp soil is so much easier to dig than rock-hard. Then find your planting spaces and dig out holes a little larger than the heucheras you're going to put in, twice the width and depth ideally. If you do this, you can add plenty of rich organic matter to the planting hole, which will improve conditions for your plants. You could use homemade leaf mould, compost or a bagged product.

Whichever heuchera varieties you choose, make sure you plant them at the same depth as they were at in their nursery pots, with the crown of the plant sitting on the surface. Water in really well and keep a good eye on moisture levels at least during their first year, and over summer.

How To Choose The Best Heucheras For Your Space

Apart from being some of the most colorful ground cover plants money can buy, heucheras are also tough, resilient and low maintenance. The majority are also evergreen, so while the rest of the backyard is tailing off in fall, coral bells really come into their own, brightening everything up brilliantly at ground level.

I like to make use of heucheras at this time of year to pick out more fall colors elsewhere: the rich reds and oranges of sorbus berries (one of the best trees for fall color), firethorn and crab apples, for example. Underplanted with similar toned heucheras, they really shine.

Under the light, deciduous branches of trees like sorbus and crab apples, the majority of heucheras will do just fine. When trees are larger and the shade canopy denser, you'll need to pick your varieties carefully, as not all heucheras do well in deeper shade. As a general rule of thumb, the darker the leaves, the more shade tolerant the heuchera.

Ongoing heuchera care is minimal. When learning how to care for heucheras, an important aspect is mulching annually in spring. Then prune out any old leaves and flower stems as they appear, and every few years divide and replant in early fall to keep them vigorous and healthy.

The Best Heuchera Varieties

'Caramel'
This is one for light shade, perhaps under a deciduous tree with similarly colored fall foliage, like a crab apple, amelanchier or Persion ironwood. The burnished bark of Prunus serrula is a match made in heaven. Also try planting in groups with other coral bells in deep wine and mahogany shades for a rich, harmonious tapestry of color.
USDA Zones 4-9
Buy Heuchera 'caramel' at Plant Addicts

'Plum Pudding'
With silvered plum-purple foliage, this is a dark, shade-tolerant heuchera that will brighten up a gloomy spot under a tree. Use it in groups for impact, paired perhaps with a white periwinkle or astrantia to pick out the silvering on the leaves. The rich pink blossom of a cherry tree in spring is also a lovely combination.
USDA Zones 4-9
Buy Heuchera 'Plum Pudding' at Garden Goods Direct

'Berry Smoothie'
Gorgeous raspberry-colored foliage that deepens to burgundy in fall. Plant it in shade or semi shade, although it'll have more flowers with higher light levels. It has a full, mounded shape and is very easygoing. I particularly love it under pink-berried rowan trees, amelanchier, cherries and North American redbud (Cercis).
USDA Zones 4-9
Shop Heuchera 'Berry Smoothie' at Nature Hills Nursery

'Autumn Bride'
One of the larger varieties, growing to around 3ft (45cm) in height and spread. 'Autumn Bride' is one of the best for dry shade, although do still add some organic matter to help it along when planting. The leaves are less showy than others, but its fresh green is always welcome under trees, where it's evergreen in milder winters.
Buy Heuchera 'Autumn Bridge' at Garden Goods Direct

What to Shop

Whether you're planning a garden for the first time or refreshing the space under some trees, I do recommend you take a look at lovely, low-maintenance coral bells, or heucheras.

They really are some of the most obliging and constantly colorful perennials available. Take your time picking your favorite varieties and you'll be rewarded for years to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Houseplants go through a seasonal shift come September, as the growing season wraps up and they prepare for winter dormancy. Chinese money plants (Pilea peperomioides) are no different and come with their own set of needs this month.

If you grow a Chinese money plant, the good news is September tasks aren't hard to do. It's all about moving your plant back indoors (if it spent summer in the garden), adjusting watering to avoid issues like root rot, and rotating it so it copes with lower light levels in fall. You can even propagate your Chinese money plant this month if it has 'pups.'

Everything you need to carry out this essential care is in our houseplant care kit collection. So, with your Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's to hand, here's what to do with a Chinese money plant in September.

1. Move It Back Indoors

It's beneficial to place houseplants outdoors in summer, allowing them to soak up sun, warmth, and the breeze. But, when temperatures start to turn in September, it's important to move houseplants back indoors so they aren't caught in the cold.

'Temperatures below 50°F cause die back. You’ll want to keep it safe as temperatures dip,' explains Juliet Howe, award-winning horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design.

When preventing pests when moving houseplants back indoors, remember to check underneath foliage. I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon) to give foliage a wipe clean.

2. Reduce Watering

One of the most important parts of fall houseplant care is adjusting watering frequency.

'Cooler days with less light, bring slower growth and less water consumption. Now is the time to stop watering on a schedule and water only when needed,' says Juliet.

Watering too frequently where the soil is taking longer to dry out can make your Chinese money plant susceptible to houseplant root rot and fungal issues.

'A good way to know when to water is to touch the soil. If the soil is dry up to the knuckle, it is time to water. Alternatively, try the bottom watering technique. When the soil is dry down to the bottom of the pot and the leaves have begun to droop slightly, place the plant in a saucer, pan or even a sink of water for about 30 minutes or until the soil is moist up to the top, then remove it from the water,' Juliet advises.

I like to use my Amazon soil moisture meter to check my houseplants' soil every time before watering.

3. Protect From Drafts

When choosing where to place your Chinese money plant for fall and winter, consider two things: light and temperature.

'A place with abundant, indirect light is ideal, like a south or southeast facing window,' says Juliet.

'Be careful of drafty windows that will expose your plant to freezing temperatures or radiators that will blast it with hot, dry air,' she adds.

Ideally, your Chinese money plant should receive 6-8 hours of bright light. You can use this grow light from Walmart to supplement light if needed.

Likewise, its ideal temperature is 60-75°F, but in fall and winter you should focus on avoiding freezing temps, as Juliet advises. This could cause browning foliage, drooping, and leaf drop.

This simple room thermometer from Walmart can help keep an eye on temperatures for your Chinese money plant.

4. Rotate Weekly

Houseplant rotation is one of the best things you can practice for your indoor plants in fall and winter.

'Rotate the pot once a week so the plant grows evenly,' Juliet describes.

By rotating your Chinese money plant's pot once a week, you ensure it receives equal exposure and encourages a more symmetrical silhouette.

It can help avoid leggy growth in September and beyond, strengthen your plant, and maintain a much more aesthetic shape.

A plant caddy (this one from Amazon has an integrated water saucer) makes it much more convenient to turn the pot regularly.

5. Propagate Pups

September is a good time to propagate Chinese money plants if they have 'pups,' or offsets

'The Pilea peperomioides is also known as the Friendship Plant. This is because it is exceptionally easy to propagate and share,' says Juliet.

'This plant produces little offsets or 'pups' around its base which are extremely easy to separate, pot and give to friends.

September is the perfect time to pot-up pups while there is still plenty of natural light and warmth for them to take root before winter,' she explains.

You may need clean and sharp pruning tools (like these pruning snips from Amazon) to remove the offsets. Optionally, you can use this rooting hormone powder from Walmart to speed up houseplant propagation.

What to Shop

Chinese money plants are also among the luckiest houseplants in some cultures, including Feng Shui. You can reap these rewards by keeping on top of optimal care and ensuring your Chinese money plant's needs are met in every season. Our guide to Feng Shui houseplant mistakes has more information you may find useful.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There really isn't such a thing as heading out into the garden for just five minutes. For us garden-enthusiasts, strolling by flower beds can result in 10 new tasks that need attending to. This is where having pocket-sized tools is handy for quick jobs.

Many essential gardening tools are small enough to carry around with you as you work in the yard. Even better, they can solve some pretty annoying problems, from removing diseased foliage, to loosening compacted soil, and even stopping birds getting to your strawberries. This includes multipurpose tools, like this hori hori knife from Amazon, which can be used for all things pruning, planting, and weeding.

So, no more trapsing back and forth to the potting shed all afternoon – pop these tiny garden tools in your pocket, garden belt, or tool caddy.

Hori Hori Knife

If there's just one Japanese gardening tool to get your hands on, it's a hori hori knife.

As mentioned above, this multipurpose tool can weed, prune, dig holes for planting, cut garden twine, and more. This is thanks to its serrated cutting edge and pointed blade – you can even get ones with a toothed edge for pulling up weeds easily.

They're often much more lightweight than pruning shears and are far less less awkward to carry than most weeding tools.

The best part is, many hori hori knives come with their own protective holster that you can connect to belt loops or store safely in a pocket without cutting yourself.

Micro Garden Snips

There are so many pruning tools on the market, that it can feel overwhelming to know where to start. But, for tiny garden tools, a pair of micro-tip garden snips is the best pick.

It's perfect for quick deadheading, removing broken stems, and even harvesting tomatoes if you want to avoid pulling the vine.

I also find garden snips are useful for taking herb cuttings and harvesting smaller cut flowers.

Soil Scoop

Of course, you can use a trowel when it comes to potting up and repotting houseplants, but it can get a little messy. That's where one of the best tools for potting comes in: a soil scoop.

A soil scoop is a specific kind of trowel that is much rounder to contain soil. Its slender shape makes it perfect for filling smaller, narrower pots, ultimately avoiding lots of mess and saving waste..

Paired with a potting mat (like this striped one from IKEA), you can avoid losing lots of soil and keep your floor or patio clean.

Fruit Protection Bags

One of the biggest disappointments to experience when growing your own fruit is discovering that birds and rodents have to got to your crop before you could harvest. A simple fruit protection bag, however, can make all the difference.

Organza bags are breathable and allow light through, so make the perfect barrier to protect the likes of strawberries, tomatoes, and other smaller fruits from being eaten by wildlife. They often come in green or are transparent, so they don't create an eyesore in your garden.

You can even get larger bags to use on figs, peaches, plums, and more. They have a drawstring design, so you can securely fit them without damaging your plants.

Pot Feet

It's a common problem for container garden plants to become oversaturated during the wet and cold conditions of fall and winter. Even if they have drainage holes, sitting flush to the ground can restrict drainage.

Enter, pot feet. These tiny garden tools are simply feet to prop up your containers, elevating them off the ground and allowing excess water to drain more freely.

They're effective winterizing tools, offering reassurance your container plants' roots won't be sitting in soggy conditions.

Pot feet come in a wide range of styles, including terracotta and black rubber.

If you're short on storage space, consider also stocking up on collapsible garden tools. These all fold down to a smaller size to store with ease, including this Walmart garden kneeler seat and Amazon portable cold frames.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The warm soils and seasonal rainfall make early fall an ideal window to add trees, shrubs, and perennials to spruce up a garden. However, garden centers, nurseries, and online retailers can sell potentially troublesome plants that will leave you with gardener’s remorse.

Accidentally adding invasive plants to your garden can cause problems for many years to come, as they aggressively spread and overpower other plants in your yard. They can also cause damage to buildings and even escape from your garden, disrupting local ecosystems.

This list of invasive plants to avoid in fall reveals some of the worst contenders you may see for sale – and the expert-recommended alternatives to put in your shopping trolley instead. It even includes popular plants that are invasive; ones that many gardeners enjoy but don’t realize are troublesome.

6 Invasive Plants to Avoid in Fall

The first step to avoiding regret is to check what is invasive in your area. The labels in nurseries or garden centers won’t always contain this information. You can check the USDA invasive species list, consult your own state's list, or contact your local Extension office to find out what is invasive or noxious in your area.

Bamboo

Bamboos add structure and drama to any garden, but far too many gardeners have fallen foul of planting the wrong bamboo over the years and been left to rue the mistake.

There are two types of bamboo to grow. Clump-forming bamboos, as the name suggests, grow in tightly-packed clumps – these are less risky. Running bamboos, however, produce strong, long underground rhizomes that quickly spread. These take over the garden and can even cause structural damage to buildings.

David McCary, owner at Seattle Sustainable Landscapes, says that many people add bamboo to their yards ‘because it looks good’. He adds: ‘But it spreads quickly and is very hard to get rid of and most of the time ends up coming back.’

You can dig barriers into the ground to stop bamboo from spreading, but this is not always 100% reliable. ‘No matter how carefully you contain it, it always seems to find its way outside of your intended boundaries,’ warns Jose Lopez, the owner and founder of Williams Landscaping in Chicago.

Bamboo can be very versatile, as a screening plant for privacy or as part of a Japanese garden. But it is imperative to pick the right bamboo to prevent issues

A beautiful alternative to bamboo is Calamagrostis (reed grass). The popular ‘Karl Foerster' variety adds vertical drama as it sways in the breeze and won’t flop in winds or heavy rain. You can get a live ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass at Nature Hills.

Nandina

Nandina, or heavenly bamboo, is often a popular choice for homeowners as it is a low-maintenance shrub with lovely foliage and vivid red berries in the fall. Its stems resemble bamboo (hence the name), but it is not a true bamboo; rather, it is part of the barberry family.

Despite its name also claiming it is heavenly, it is far from angelic. Instead, it is classed as an invasive plant across the southeastern United States.

As Stephen Janacek, founder of Pollinator Patch, explains: ‘Nandina domestica is common in foundation plantings across the South. The Florida Invasive Species Council lists it in Category I, and Florida's Natural Areas Inventory notes it spreads by wildlife-dispersed seeds and vegetatively through rhizomes and suckers.’

The risks from adding heavenly bamboo to your backyard are two-fold. It both suckers and spreads in your yard, and also escapes into the local habitat to inhibit native plants. It is better to opt for a native alternative that is also low-maintenance and produces vivid fall berries.

The American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) is a perfect alternative, with its stunning purple berries that really stand out during the colder months. You can get a live American beautyberry plant on Amazon.

Japanese Barberry

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) has been widely used in landscaping for many years. It is tolerant of many soil types and low-maintenance – two factors that homeowners look for when planting shrubs or adding hedges to a property.

However, it is an invasive shrub that grows into a large mass, which can hide a nasty surprise.

‘They are common in nurseries due to the color offerings, but these thorny bushes can also become a headache for a new gardener,’ warns Sara Gottlieb, Founder and CEO of Liminal Gardens.

‘Ticks, known to spread Lyme disease, love to hide and live in this shrub along with small rodents like mice.

‘Barberry has also been known to spread fungal disease, Black Stem Rust, to wheat, oat, barley and rye populations in your area. Though sold as an easy-to-grow and maintain shrub, I would stay away from them in my home garden.’

If you plant Japanese barberry, it all-too-easily spreads outside the confines of a garden and forms thick groves that crowd out native plants.

Its invasive nature has led many states to ban or restrict its sale and planting. For example, Lindsay Chastain, homesteader and founder of Waddle & Cluck, says: ‘Japanese Barberry can't be sold or cultivated in Pennsylvania because of how it disrupts natural ecosystems.’

Stephen Janacek recommends growing ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) as an alternative to Japanese barberry. You can get a live ‘Summer Wine’ black ninebark at Nature Hills to plant for a pollinator-friendly shrub with deep burgundy foliage.

Montbretia

Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora, also known as monbretia, is a hybrid variety of crocosmia that has gotten itself a troublesome reputation for escaping from gardens and crowding out native plants in wild areas.

‘Montbretia has striking orange (or red) flowers but spreads fast underground. Left unchecked, it can dominate garden beds and creep into wild areas,’ warns Jennifer Holmes at Environment Control.

‘Digging out corms before flowering can help, though large infestations may require chemical treatment by a qualified contractor.’

Crocosmia spreads in two ways, through underground corms and by seeds. After planting, it drifts and spreads across flower beds, dominating more delicate plants. Once it escapes the garden, it starts forming dense patches and outmuscling native plants.

In the US, it is classed as an invasive plant in North Carolina and across the West Coast.

You can plant crocosmia to enjoy their bold flowers and distinctive foliage, but choose the types wisely. Container-grown plants are often available in fall in nurseries or online. Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ is a popular variety with scarlet flowers and is better-behaved than monbretia.

English Ivy

English ivy (Hedera helix), or common ivy, is a popular evergreen climber, though it is sometimes sold as an easy ground cover plant too. It is fast-growing and unfussy, capable of growing in any conditions from sun to deep shade. The versatility and ease of growing English ivy have made it a popular plant for many years, but it does not come without serious potential issues.

‘English ivy is a pretty popular plant that I would not add to your garden this fall,’ claims Lindsey Chastain.

This sentiment is echoed by Sara Gottlieb. She says: ‘It can be a picturesque, fast-growing addition to your garden, but the rapid growth can come at tremendous cost to a gardener. It is a strong species that easily out-competes surrounding species; it also loves to climb and choke other plant life to gain supremacy.’

Ivy spreads rapidly as an invasive ground cover, swamping other plants and creating a perfect hiding place for rats, mice, and other pests. As a climber, it has developed a reputation for damaging fences and buildings, with its aerial roots capable of boring into bricks and mortar.

The plant also escapes gardens and grows aggressively, including dominating and shading trees. Ivy’s bad behaviour has made it a destructive invasive species in the UK. Stephen Janacek adds: ‘Washington's Noxious Weed Control Board lists it as a Class C noxious weed.’

Stephen recommends kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), also known as bearberry, as an alternative native evergreen ground cover plant. You can get a live Massachusetts Hybrid kinnikinnick plant at Plant Addicts that will grow no taller than 18 inches but spread up to six feet. The foliage changes from deep green to red-purple in fall, the pink blooms are adored by bees, and the red fall berries are popular with wildlife.

Three-Cornered Leek

Three-cornered leek (Allium triquetrum) is part of the allium family and, once it gets into your yard, you’ll struggle to get rid of it. Foragers adore these plants as a sweeter alternative to wild garlic, but they’re an invasive bulb you won’t want in your garden because they spread ferociously.

‘Three-cornered leek spreads quickly via bulbs,’ says Jennifer Holmes. ‘It can overrun garden borders and escape into woodlands, displacing native flora. Pulling up bulbs before flowering and careful disposal is essential. Persistent infestations may require repeated removal or herbicide treatment.’

It is hard to eliminate the plant as they grow from small bulblets. Any tiny bit left in the soil sees it resprout, ensuring a long battle to remove three-cornered leek if you have it in the garden.

Instead, grow an allium that isn’t as problematic, and there are many to choose from. Such as the native one-leaf onion (Allium unifolium). It is an ornamental allium with pinky-purple summer flowers in late spring. You can get Allium unifolium bulbs at White Flower Farm.

What to Shop

Renovating flower beds is a great task for any fall gardening checklist. For inspiration, our guide to the best perennials to plant in fall includes 10 great options you can plant in September or October, including the likes of hostas, coreopsis, phlox, coral bells, and more to fill any beds or borders with color and texture for seasons to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Over the last 20 years, landscape designer and antiques collector Stephen Block has carefully curated a lush, tropical escape in his Californian backyard. With a passion for wabi-sabi and finding beauty in imperfection, his garden is a treasure trove of collected antiques, each with a history of its own.

Through his design company, Inner Gardens, Stephen approaches his clients' garden ideas with an open mind, allowing the space, plants, and collected pieces to shape his creation. He applies the same philosophy to his own garden, where horticulture and antiques come together in the form of oversized plants, timeworn vessels, one-of-a-kind sculptures, and garden furniture sourced from flea markets across the world. Nestled beneath breathtaking foliage, each piece feels as though it has always belonged among the planting, just waiting to be discovered.

Even as friends and family gather here to enjoy the space, Stephen's mind continues to work. As the plants mature, newly acquired antiques weave into the garden's tapestry and become part of its story. For Stephen, it's this continual evolution that gives the garden its sense of abundance, character, and soul.

I Built It From the Ground Up

We've been in this garden for 20 years now, and it looks very different from when we arrived. There was practically nothing here, just 9,000 square feet of dirt and Melaleuca trees. When it came to designing the garden, I really was starting from scratch.

I haven't got a green thumb inherently. There was actually an exact moment I can recall when I became infatuated with plants. I watched a new leaf unfurl from a little rubber plant and it just blew me away. I suddenly wanted to know everything, and ended up studying horticulture at the University of Florida.

I've always approached design from the perspective of the plant world, even indoors. I joke with my architect friends that where they see a wall, I see a hedge.

This way of looking at space has stayed with me, along with the influence of the great designers and landscape architects I've worked with over the years. I've learned a tremendous amount from them, and I recognize their influence as I walk through the garden.

It's a shade garden, so I planted large Philodendron selloum on the left side, with Ligularia beneath them – one of my favorite plants, with its beautiful, unusual round leaves.

I've also been collecting staghorn ferns since college, so hanging them from the trees was non-negotiable. Amazingly, they were only a third of their current size when I first brought them here. Now, they've become one of the garden's signature oversized features.

This sense of scale is one of the things I think makes the garden. It may be a smaller space than other gardens, but the plantings are huge. It sounds a bit counterintuitive, but if you have a tiny space, you don't necessarily want to plant small – you want to plant big to make the space feel grand.

Antiques Are at the Center

My love of collecting goes right back to childhood. My parents were in the junk and used furniture business in Florida, and my mother had a great eye. That instinct to find something unusual and see its potential has become the foundation of my work.

So when I started Inner Gardens, I wanted to do something different and began collecting things. I would literally find an old bucket in the Los Angeles River, combine it with an interesting plant, and lo and behold, people snapped it up.

Over time, this grew into one of the largest collections of garden antiques in the country, spread across two locations: our main showroom in Culver City and a nursery showroom in Malibu.

In my own garden, many of these collected pieces define the space.

The thing that actually sparked my vision for the garden was a fountain I bought in South Carolina. It's classical, but has great strength and character. It became the axis of the design, and then everything else seemed to follow.

I continue to travel to flea markets around the world in search of new treasures, particularly in the south of France, Paris and Italy, and sometimes southern Spain. I love finding odd and unusual pieces that I know can be transformed when they're paired with the right plants.

Whether I'm working in a garden or an interior, my inspiration can come from a singular tree or plant, just as easily as it can from a bench or a fountain. It takes just one piece to ignite my creative vision for a space.

Wabi-Sabi Inspires Me

The garden is split in two, with an entertaining area and pool divided by a 1920s iron gate I found. I built a wall and pilasters to complete this boundary, and two antique vessels sit on top either side. They don't actually match, and vines are growing all over them, which gives them a lived-in feel that I love.

Everything in my garden is a bit wabi-sabi – the Japanese concept of embracing imperfection and accepting impermanence. It's a principle that's really important to my design and the pieces I collect. I don't like things that are perfect. If they're too perfect, I don't buy them.

I'll never forget when someone sent me a pair of 18th-century terracotta busts from Italy. They were obviously really good pieces, but they didn't show their age at all. It was as if they'd been kept in a sealed container inside a house, and I really didn't care for them.

With any garden element, whether it's a table, a bench, or a fountain, I like the fact that the gardener has knocked it over 200 times and it's got marks, broken pieces, and old paint. The more of that, the better.

In my clients' gardens, I'm always seeking to bring a feeling of age and character. If something's too shiny, I feel like it's my job to knock it down a bit.

In terms of wabi-sabi in my own garden, the fountain isn't really put together perfectly. It's actually sinking on one side, but I'm not going to straighten it.

I also have three heart-shaped stones by the pool. Those were originally tables that I found in Texas. They had old, rusty iron bases, so I repurposed them here to pay homage to my three daughters.

The table in the garden is an old farm table that's halfway falling apart. Even the turquoise-blue chairs are a collection from the south of France. They're worn, and you can see where they've been sat on for years.

This idea of being worn and lived-in is really what I think of with wabi-sabi. It's not to everyone's taste, but I think it gives these items soul and a story.

Working with the Californian Climate

One of the most challenging things about gardening in the hot summers of our Californian climate is trying to maintain a perfectly manicured lawn. It's simply too difficult to keep up with the water demand.

I've been incorporating native grasses and drought-tolerant plants because, ultimately, you can't have an English garden here. I think embracing this is driving a shift in how Californian gardens look – you don't just have to settle for desert plants; with the right plant choices, you can create a lush, abundant green garden.

In fact, many of my shade-tolerant tropical plants (including the philodendrons and ferns) have not needed much water since becoming established.

I've actually become quite anti-automatic irrigation because I find it waters indiscriminately. The right way to do it is to stick your finger in the ground or use a probe to determine whether a plant needs water or not.

As gardens age, they need less water. The issue is that a lot of people don't turn the water down, so we're wasting a lot of water in our yards.

It's Never Really Finished

The garden is mature now, so I've been able to watch it through different stages. It was once very small and bare, now abundant and full of plants. It's taught me how dynamic designing a garden really is – you have to prepare for plants to grow and change.

And I'm really proud of what I've achieved. Our friends all have their birthday parties in our garden because it feels warm, nurturing, and full. It's not stark, and it's not so highly-designed that that you feel like you're sitting on the garden, not in the garden.

I'm an inveterate collector, so I'll always be seeking out new plants and antiques to bring together here. I'm actually planning to add more staghorn ferns. There are about 18 different species and I would love to have all of them in my garden. Any spot I have on a tree is saved for them.

For me, a garden should never feel finished. It should carry the signs of the life it's lived and leave room for new things to take root.

Garden Diaries is our series where we share inspiring stories of designing and cultivating a stunning garden space. We explore how creatives, designers and tastemakers have grown a deeply personal space, inviting creativity, learning and happiness in their gardens, and how they live in these spaces.

Love beautiful design ideas, expert advice, and inspiring garden trends? Sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox.

Suburban streets blooming with fall porch displays are a charming sight. However, if you would like to switch up your store-bought mums this year, we have some design tricks from floral experts.

With their array of colors and bloom forms, potted chrysanthemums are an attractive and inexpensive way to celebrate the season. Yet they can look so much better with some simple tweaks. It's not necessary to have a large porch or a huge budget to create an arrangement with high-end energy.

Discover what floral designers do to give budget mums a tasteful glow up with these outdoor fall décor ideas – and create a fall porch display that we'd bet Martha Stewart would approve of. This garden mums quart pot from Plant Addicts would be a great foundation for a beautiful front door feature.

Team Mums With Other Late-Bloomers

Mums are popular during the fall, as they thrive when many other plants are starting to fade. However, there are some other species that can work with these floral favorites in porch displays this time of year.

'Adding woody plant material will take potted mum displays to a whole new level,' says Jim Sutton, Associate Director of Display Design, Longwood Gardens.

'Choose perennial plants that can later be incorporated into your permanent landscaping. There are several varieties of hydrangeas, such as paniculata or oakleaf, that have been bred for fall interest. These can prove to be a very good investment.'

This Little Lime Punch Hydrangea from Plant Addicts can flower into fall with spectacular color.

Ornamental kale mixed with pansies can add an unexpected flourish to containers that persist well into cold weather too.

'Kale and pansies mixed with mums in different pots make a display far more interesting,' says Jim. 'Conifers, especially yellow foliage ones, are another way to elevate a simple mums display into something much more sophisticated.'

Add Contrasting Foliage And Texture

Mixing ornamental grasses, foliage or branches with mums is a striking option that's gaining popularity. Floral designers like to mix other eye-catching stems into displays too.

'Adding cut branches, fresh or dried, will add interest, texture and height to these displays,' says Jim. 'Colored dogwood stems (yellow or red) will stay fresh in a fall container that’s well watered, can transition to a holiday container, and often will root in giving you another plant the following year.'

This Arctic Fire Red Twig Dogwood from Plant Addicts is suitable for a container – and would look gorgeous in the garden during the winter.

'Curly willow can generally be purchased from a local florist and, if fresh, will act the same,' says Jim. 'For more drama, birch branches or birch white poles can be added to containers if large enough.

'There are several new cultivars of Heuchera on the market with nice fall foliage. Taller grasses work well too.'

'Using architectural foliage and branches is a great way to elevate your display,' says Calvert Crary, Executive Director, FlowerSchool New York. 'Tall stems can draw the eye to certain focal points, where you group your arrangement for maximum impact.

'If you want the mums to be the star, use grasses to create a “backdrop” that lets the mums stand out front and center.'

This Feather Falls Carex Plant from Burpee would add structure to a container display.

Opt for Oversized Pots

Leaving mums in their nursery pots can look a little lacklustre. Aside from placing individual plants in smart outer pots, floral designers have other tricks to make store-bought mums look more sophisticated.

Calvert likes to remove the nursery pots and group small plants together in an oversized container for a more impactful display. This also allows you to replace plants if necessary.

'Plant your store-bought mums in standard black pots and place those pots inside a larger vessel,' says Calvert. 'This way you can easily change the look of your display without needing to repot the mums when you want a fresh look.'

With their golden yellow flowers and firey red tips, these Matchsticks Chrysanthemums from Burpee offer fabulous fall color.

Group Containers And Repeat Colors

Grouping containers in coordinating shapes and sizes together is a trusted technique for garden designers. This method can work well for front porch displays too. Jim likes to place mums in attractive planters of different sizes to bring extra pazazz to the look and feel of the plants.

'Whichever plant composition you choose, putting a common chrysanthemum in a beautiful pot elevates its position,' says Jim. 'Grouping containers of varying sizes and heights adds to the impact of any mum display.'

It's not necessary to have huge numbers of potted mums for an impressive arrangement. Odd numbers are a faithful formula, so just three mums grouped together in coordinating containers will look far more impressive than one plant on its own.

'When selecting your plants, bear in mind that repeating a hue or staying within the same color family typically lends more impact to an arrangement,' adds Calvert.

Shop Decorative Pots

As you can see, it doesn't take too much time or effort to switch up basic store-bought potted mums into an expensive-looking outdoor arrangement.

'Chrysanthemums bloom all at once for a strong late-season color statement,' says Jim. 'They are also very economical, giving you a lot of value for the cost.

'Adding gourds and/or pumpkins in and around the containers is often pleasing to the eye. Grapevine can also be artfully intertwined around the containers to draw the eye through the whole composition.

'And since front porches generally offer some cover, it's easy to extend the season elegantly with these plants.'

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Terracotta pots bring a warm beauty and character to any deck or patio. They evoke a Mediterranean allure, but also create specific growing conditions that don’t suit all plants. Knowing what grows well in terracotta pots and what doesn’t guarantees happy plants and prevents fatalities.

Terracotta planters and pots are porous and allow air and moisture to pass through their walls, which means the soil dries out faster. This is perfect for any plants that don’t like sitting wet for long periods, but not for moisture-loving ones. Plants that thrive in terracotta pots like warmer soil and fast-draining conditions that dry out between waterings.

If you want a thriving container garden, this guide to the best plants for terracotta pots helps you understand which plants prefer clay and which do better in plastic or ceramic. Terracotta pots do come in many different shapes and sizes, from classic straight-sided pots and urns (like this terracotta urn jar at Target) to more modern designs. If you invest in an eye-catching pot, you always want your plants to impress too.

Rosemary

Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, a locale of hot, dry summers and rocky, well-draining soils. This natural habitat mirrors the conditions plants experience in a terracotta pot, making rosemary one of the best plants to grow in terracotta pots.

Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder of The Waddle and Cluck, says that rosemary’s preference for warm soil, along with its trait of being a drought-tolerant herb, makes it a ‘good option’ for the growing conditions created by terracotta.

‘Terracotta works best for plants that like to dry out a little between waterings,’ says Lindsey. ‘Because it's clay, it also loses moisture faster.’

When you grow rosemary in pots, it is important to avoid ‘wet feet’, as the plant is prone to root rot if it sits in soggy soil for long periods. Any container for rosemary needs drainage holes, and an amendment such as grit or perlite added to the potting mix.

If you want to harvest rosemary for cooking or cocktails, this live ‘Chef's Choice’ rosemary plant at Trees.com, formerly known as Fast Growing Trees, is perfect. With a higher oil content than other varieties, it offers an astounding flavor profile.

Lavender

Lavender is another hugely popular herb, and its native heritage suits it perfectly to terracotta pots. It hails from mountainous areas of the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and Asia (yes, English lavender is not native to England) and thrives in drier, fast-draining soil.

It ticks all the right boxes for growing in terracotta pots or planters, plus growing lavender in clay just looks right. It might just be me, but I think lavender in containers stands out far more as a statement maker in terracotta than plastic pots.

This ‘Phenomenal’ lavender plant from Trees.com is compact and perfect for pots. The purple blooms will look stunning against the earthy orange tones of terracotta and attract lots of pollinators.

When lavender sits in soggy, poorly draining soil, it succumbs to root rot, which often means the end for your plants. If you grow lavender in pots and it looks sad with grey leaves or wilted stems, it may be in the wrong pot or need more gravel added to the soil for drainage. The best soil for lavender is always free-draining.

Also, check that the container has a hole; if not, it is easy to add drainage holes to planters.

Pelargoniums

Pelargoniums, also known as tender geraniums, make a stunning show in pots. I used to work at one garden that displayed its pelargoniums every summer on tables adorned with groups of plants in terracotta pots. It was a great mixed display of colorful, fragrant blooms and foliage, and the plants loved their lives in terracotta.

The tender plants hail predominantly from southern Africa (though some are from Asia or Australasia) and have been popular in gardens for centuries. Pelargoniums come in a range of bright colors, and there are varieties with textured or scented foliage.

This collection of two live pelargonium plants at Amazon combines a Pelargonium ‘Citrosum’ and a Pelargonium crispum ‘Mosquito Shocker’, and both put out a delicious lemon aroma to enjoy.

Overall, there is a real diversity of pelargoniums available for gardeners to grow, but all types need specific growing conditions found in terracotta pots.

Pelargoniums love free-draining soil and are happy for the compost to dry out between waterings. They also thrive when they get good airflow around the roots. This combination makes them one of the best plants to grow in terracotta pots.

Having them in a pot also makes it easy to overwinter geraniums, as you can bring them indoors for the colder months.

Agastache

‘For terracotta pots, I'd recommend Agastache because they prefer drying out between waterings and not having soggy roots,’ says David McCary, owner at Seattle Sustainable Landscapes.

Agastache, also known as hummingbird mint, is a drought-tolerant perennial that grows in free-draining, rocky, and arid soils in their native habitats. They like sun and warmth and needs to be in soil that drains well. Growing hummingbird mint in wetter conditions comes with a real risk of rot.

If you want a pretty container plant for pollinators, agastache ticks all the right boxes. As the name hummingbird mint suggests, it attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds to its fragrant spikes of tubular flowers, which can be purple, blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, or white.

This live ‘Kudos Red Dwarf’ hummingbird mint plant from Plant Addicts is a compact variety perfectly suited for pots. It produces scarlet blooms from June and will continue to flower all summer and well into fall with deadheading. If you want to grow hummingbird mint in pots, this is a fabulous variety to consider.

Citrus Trees

I also worked at a historic garden that had a large display of citrus trees. These were grown in terracotta pots of different sizes and brought out to create formal displays during the summer.

Such a show of citrus trees was popular in 17th-century European gardens and still looks impressive today. I am not recommending taking that grand approach, but even growing a single lemon tree in a terracotta pot makes a showpiece on a patio and fills the air with fragrance. The dark green foliage and bright fruits blend well with the earthy tones of terracotta and the combo brings a real Mediterranean garden feel to any space.

Citrus trees are plants that thrive in terracotta pots, as they need good drainage and loathe overwatering to perform at their best. They like sun, but the roots want to breathe and remain cooler.

They don’t like to bake in hotter plastic containers. Fill your terracotta pot with a good potting mix and feed citrus trees weekly in summer with a dedicated citrus fertilizer, such as this liquid citrus fertilizer on Amazon.

Terracotta pots are also heavier than their plastic counterparts, so your trees are less likely to fall over on windy days.

A ‘Meyer’ lemon tree like this on Trees.com is one of the best fruit trees to grow in pots. The thin-skinned fruit is a cross between a lemon and an orange. It has a unique sweet and savory taste, and you won’t find such fruit in stores.

What to Shop

As mentioned at the start, some plants simply won’t ever thrive in terracotta containers – no matter how hard you try. Moisture-lovers, plants with delicate roots, and others aren’t suitable for life in clay. Avoid falling foul of this with our guide to 12 plants to never put in terracotta pots.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

It's a common problem for houseplants to look a little leggy as we go through seasonal shifts. In September, straggly, weak growth is usually the result of significantly darker conditions, causing your plants to become stressed.

It's a indoor plant problem I've dealt with many times, but the good news is it's fairly straightforward to fix. When houseplants are accustomed to brighter light in summer, suddenly receiving much less light (for example, if they're tucked away from a window) can result in leggy growth as the plant searches for more light.

I turn to my houseplant care kit to prune away this weak growth and gradually acclimate my houseplants to a more optimal position with more light exposure. And it's really as simple as that – you just need a pair of reliable houseplant pruning snips to hand (like these from Amazon).

What Causes Leggy Houseplants in September?

An essential part of fall houseplant care is helping plants adjust to changing growing conditions. This includes lower light and less hours of light exposure.

When houseplants that thrive in brighter light suddenly receive far less, it can result in a stress response: stretched, weak growth that is searching for light. The fact many houseplants are still actively growing in September means there is one last growth spurt that is not being supported with sufficient light levels.

You can use this houseplant meter from Amazon to determine if your plants are receiving enough light.

The problem with leggy houseplant growth is that not only does it weaken the plant and result in long stems more susceptible to snapping, it looks unsightly. This is particular the case when it causes plant stems to be long and sparse, with big gaps between leaves (a common problem for succulents).

In turn, your houseplant becoming weak right before the coldest months makes it much more vulnerable to the cooler room temperatures and houseplant pest damage.

That's why I act as soon as I notice my houseplant's starting to look a little lopsided and leggy.

How to Fix It

There are a few steps I follow when trying to revive a houseplant from leggy growth. Just remember some patience is needed to nurture it back to good health, so don't expect an instant improvement.

1. To help a leggy houseplant recover properly, it's important to acclimate it to a more optimal position. Each houseplant has its own specific light needs, but fall and winter generally call for positioning closer to windows – you can also use a grow light to supplement light if needed (this grow light from Amazon has a convenient timer). You can gradually reposition it by moving your houseplant closer to a window for a few hours each day, giving it a gentle introduction to its new home.
2. Once acclimated, use houseplant pruning snips (these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's are a good choice) to cut back the leggy growth. You should cut just below a leaf node where new growth will emerge. Just take care not to prune more than one third of the plant, which may cause further stress. And keep in mind the shape you're creating when pruning, so you get a more aesthetic end result.
3. Practice houseplant rotation going forward. This is where you simply rotate your houseplants, say once a week, so each side receives equal exposure to light. In fall and winter especially, this can help create a more symmetrical shape and prevent further leggy growth. I find a plant caddy (like this wooden one from Wayfair) makes this much easier to do.

Bonus: Propagate Your Cuttings

Depending on the condition of the stems you prune off your leggy houseplants, you can grow houseplants with cuttings to multiply your collection.

You may find rooting hormone (like this rooting hormone powder from Amazon) helps speed up houseplant propagation. However, September is a favorable time to root cuttings, with lingering warmer temperatures and the final days of summer daylight.

What to Shop

Houseplants can be such a joy in fall and winter when the garden has gone to sleep. As well as ensuring they stay healthy, you can use houseplants for fall color to create a beautiful botanical spectacle for your home.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

A good tool caddy can make gardening feel more organized, keeping your most-used tools within easy reach as you move around the garden. Instead of making repeated trips to the shed to pick up an essential gardening tool, a well-designed caddy keeps everything in one place and ready when you need it.

If you regularly find yourself moving between different flower beds, borders and containers, a portable caddy will save you carrying all your tools separately. There's no shortage of styles and designs to suit different gardening needs, either, from open-sided totes that make it easier to see and grab bigger tools to bags with multiple pockets that keep smaller hand tools organised.

If you're looking for inspiration, we've rounded up some of the best tool caddies that you can pick up in time for fall gardening. Gardenheir's Waxed Canvas Origami Harvesting Trug has a traditional, premium feel with its sturdy, waxed canvas construction, while West Elm's Chilewich Hachiman Garden Tool Bag feels more contemporary with its sleek, waterproof design. In contrast, the Kings County Tools Wood Box Caddy from Home Depot brings the look of a traditional carpenter's toolbox to the garden, with its simple wooden design, and enough room to store essential tools.

From traditional wooden carriers to hardworking canvas totes, these 16 picks of the best tool caddies will make it easier to keep your gardening essentials close at hand.

As the season changes, a tool caddy can prove even more useful. Having all your tools for fall gardening to hand - from bulb planters to leaf scoops - means less time hunting for what you need, and more time ticking off jobs on your fall gardening checklist before the weather turns.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

September is the time to prep Japanese maple for the colder months ahead. With the hot and sun baked days behind us, these plants need to recover their energy reserves quickly before heading into their dormant period.

Known for their spectacular fall color and intricately cut foliage, Japanese maple trees are a standout feature in gardens of every shape and size. Grown as bonsai trees, and as sculptural centerpieces in a border or planter, these deciduous, slow-growing trees have exquisite lines and a delicate charm that instantly elevate any outside space.

With shallow root systems and tender leaves, these versatile plants are susceptible to changeable temperatures and weather, so they do require a degree of care. This month essential tasks include judicious pruning, irrigation monitoring and prepping for cold weather (for which these large zip-up shrub protectors from Lowe's are very handy).

Prune Lightly To Maintain Shape

September is a poignant moment in the gardening year, when perennials, trees and shrubs have established, put on new growth and are settling in for the dormant period. Having nurtured them to this point, now is the time to nip Japanese maples into shape.

'Japanese maples are relatively problem free and require a very light hand in creating a graceful figure. The majority of the pruning done to maintain a graceful shape is done after the spring growth has hardened off. This period of time is the end of July into the beginning of October,' explains Daniel Schachner, horticulturist working in the Japanese Garden, Seiwa-En, at the Missouri Botanical Garden.

'During this period, any distracting or structurally problematic new growth can be controlled. The most important pruning tip is to prevent branches that will overlap or rub. A light hand is best.' Daniel also adds.

'If you have questions on pruning or are looking for a professional, the Aesthetic Pruner Association (APA) trains and certifies professionals on this type of pruning.'

A sharp, clean pair of Pro Bypass Secateurs such as these from Amazon, will make this job a joy. Plus if you love a dramatic and sculptural tree, be sure to consider Coral Bark Japanese Maple from Garden Goods Direct with it's contrasting red bark and lime foliage.

Protect From Fast Cooling Temperatures

Japanese maples often need protection in winter. Ice and snow particularly take their toll, with frozen soil preventing roots from absorbing essential nutrients and rot from setting in. The sheer weight of snow can also cause fragile branches to snap and stems to split, causing irreparable damage.

Knowing how to protect plants from frost, and taking action before cold, stormy weather arrives is a smart move, but options vary depending on the size of the tree plus where and how it is planted.

'If growing a Japanese maple in a pot in a climate that experiences freezing temperatures, it would be best to bury the pot in mulch to protect the root ball from freezing or they may be overwintered in an unheated garage,' he continues. Other preventative measures include lifting the plant off frozen ground using heavy duty rubber pot feet or a smart rolling plant caddy, both from Amazon.

For in-ground trees, winter tree care options can be limited. Frost cloths whether made from burlap, spun polysterene or breathable polypropylene fiber, all from Lowe's, can all be useful.

'Cold protection is tricky. If the tree is exposed to the wild in the winter and is small, you could do a wrapping in burlap during dormancy,' says Daniel. 'This is a difficult task, as the trees get larger and it usually is not feasible. Right plant, right place.'

Choosing a Japanese maple cultivar that suited to your climate is all important. Varieties with red leaves tend to cope with more sun in cooler climates, while those with green foliage prefer a shadier spot. 'Acer palmatum 'Emperor One' has also shown promise in cold tolerance in lower hardiness zones,' says Daniel. Find this Japanese maple variety at Lowe's.

Keep A Watch On Watering

Now is the ideal time to review your watering routine, whether you are nurturing an established Japanese maple or newly planted tree. Whether you are growing Japanese maple in a pot or planted in-ground , deep watering is invaluable and maybe not as often as you think.

'When it comes to watering, trees–in general–prefer a long, deep watering period on less frequent intervals,' says Daniel. 'Setting a sprinkler or irrigation system to run for a long period of time but only once a week or every other week is a safe choice.'

It is worth monitoring how much water is being distributed during each session, with Daniel's ideal being 2 to 4 inches. 'Testing your sprinkler system for the rate of application will help apply water properly. An irrigation audit is possible by setting out a container within the irrigated zone that can capture water to be measured.

'Most turf irrigation systems will water for a short period of time, but multiple applications per day. This can be problematic as the soil cannot properly drain moisture, and it encourages fungal pathogens in the root system. It is important to observe the soil around the tree; irrigation should only be applied if the soil is draining properly.'

If you don't wish to install an irrigation system, there are other watering solutions to try. We like the look of the Dew Right Tree Watering Donut from Garden Goods Direct or the Element Kink-Free Soaker Hose from Lowe's.

Time To Plant New Trees

September marks a short window for planting Japanese maples in the ground. With cooling air temperatures, a mellowing sun and still-warm soil, conditions are perfect for a tree's root system to settle before wintry weather kicks in.

'If you are planting a maple in the ground, early spring and mid-fall, typically in September and early October are the best times,' says Daniel. 'However, if planting a small tree, it can be done any time in the growing season with success if water is applied properly.'

Soil preparation for good drainage, is all important, and can vary depending on soil type. Loosen clay by mixing in topsoil, well aged compost or pine bark or bolster sandy soil's water retention with well rotted compost. Also, be sure to break up heavily compacted soil. This sturdy garden digging fork or Spear Head Spade, both Amazon, will easily handle the task.

Plant the tree so the graft line is above the surface and in a hole that is slightly shallower than the tree's root ball. This will discourage water from pooling around the main stem and to drain efficiently.

Top Up Mulch

This month, prior to leaf fall, is the perfect time to top up a tree's mulch layer. 'Mulch keeps soil temperature lower and helps retain moisture. When applied to an appropriate depth, it develops a fungal mat that helps to suppress weeds and break down the mulch for nutrient use in the tree,' explains Daniel.

While a mulch depth of around 4 in( 20cm) is ideal, a shallower depth will still aid plant growth and limit weed growth.

'It is important when applying mulch to any tree that the mulch must not be touching the trunk and bark of the tree. Any area above the basal flare, where the roots meet the trunk, does not handle the persistent moisture that the mulch retains and can lead to the death of the cambial layer and therefore the tree,' Daniel adds.

Organic mulch options can include homemade compost, grass clippings or fallen leaves but bought-in products such as Cleanstraw Pine Needles from Trees.comand Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets from Target will create a professional and polished finish.

What To Shop

One of the best trees for fall color, Japanese maples are just the start of a cool season garden filled with impact. Take a look at these native alternatives trees to expand your collection, and snap up some of these plants for pots in September for winter color.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Gardeners can get lots of free plants by taking cuttings in September. Early fall is a great time to take semi-ripe cuttings and get exact clones of your favorite plants. Whether to expand a collection or as a contingency in case you lose any to winter frosts, take cuttings this month and plant them out next spring.

If you are new to taking plant cuttings, it may sound confusing. In a nutshell, semi-ripe material is current-season wood that has started to harden but not fully firmed. The base is hard, but the tip is soft, and shrubs should have a lot of this material in September. As they are still actively growing in early fall, these cuttings should take relatively quickly.

There are still ornamentals and edibles you can plant in September, but there is always a real satisfaction to growing plants from cuttings. Here is a lovely selection of semi-ripe cuttings to take in September, along with expert tips for success. Get started with a pair of sharp, clean pruning snips (available on Amazon) to take your cuttings.

1. Rosemary

Rosemary is a staple herb for any keen cook to have in their herb or kitchen garden. The aromatic foliage also makes it very popular outside a herb garden, such as lining pathways or making a statement in a container.

Despite being a cold-hardy plant, rosemary will struggle sitting in cold, wet soil over winter. You can grow rosemary indoors in colder climates (US hardiness zone 6 and lower) to protect it from frosts. Or you can propagate rosemary from cuttings and overwinter these indoors, just in case anything happens to your parent plants over winter.

Select healthy, straight, non-flowering shoots 4-6 inches long and remove the lower leaves so only an inch of foliage remains on the soft tip. Dip the end in rooting hormone (such as this rooting powder at Walmart) and insert up to four cuttings around the edge of a small pot filled with well-draining cutting compost.

Keep the cutting somewhere protected over winter, such as in a greenhouse or on a bright windowsill. Ensure the soil remains moist, but not waterlogged, so the cutting can be planted outside come spring.

2. Lavender

Gardeners can easily propagate lavender from semi-ripe cuttings in September. It is a great option if you have a particular type of lavender you love, or have a woody lavender that may need replacing in the future.

As some lavenders are also more susceptible to frosts or damage during cold, wet winters, it is a sensible way to plan for potential losses. If your existing plants survive winter unharmed, you can gift young lavenders to friends and family.

Pick shoots that are brown and woody at the base, yet green and flexible at the tip. Trim them to 3-4 inches long and remove the lower sets of leaves. Dip them in rooting hormone and place them around the edge of small pots; this propagation potting mix on Amazon makes a suitable free-draining soil for cuttings.

Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a humid atmosphere that helps keep the cuttings moist. The cuttings should overwinter in a greenhouse or on a windowsill where they can get bright, but indirect, light. The plastic bag should be removed after the first few weeks, and the cuttings should be potted on once roots have formed.

3. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas are easy to propagate from cuttings in the fall. If you have a hydrangea variety you really enjoy, or want to encourage a friend or family member to grow hydrangeas by gifting them a plant, taking semi-ripe cuttings in September is a great way to do so.

To multiply hydrangeas from cuttings in fall, select a non-flowering shoot and cut it into a 6-8 inch piece. Snip off all the lower leaves, leaving just one set at the top, and cut the remaining leaves in half to help reduce moisture loss. Dip the cuttings into rooting hormone and place them into a pot filled with well-draining compost.

Alternatively, you can propagate hydrangeas in water. To do so, follow the steps above but, instead of a pot of soil, place the cuttings in a container of water and put that in a warm, bright spot on a windowsill. Keep changing the water at least weekly and wait until the cutting has developed two-inch roots before potting it up.

4. Salvia

Gardeners in the know appreciate that not all salvias are winter-hardy. There is a wide range of borderline or half-hardy salvias to grow, including the popular Salvia ‘Amistad’, which flowers for a long time to delight onlookers and attract pollinators throughout the season.

Taking salvia cuttings in fall insures against any potential winter losses and expands a collection. If your salvias are getting older and woody, propagating salvias in this way gives you exact clones to add to borders or pots as replacements.

Pick healthy, non-flowering stems and take 4-6 inch cuttings. Remove the lower leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and pop a number of cuttings around the edges of small pots. Each cutting should have two-thirds of its length submerged under the soil.

Water gently and cover the container with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid to boost the humidity (you can get nursery pots with humidity domes at Amazon that are ideal for cuttings). Place it somewhere warm and bright, such as a greenhouse or windowsill, and then overwinter the rooted cuttings in a frost-free place.

5. Hebe

Hebes are among some of the prettiest evergreen plants for a garden. The genus contains around 90 different species of low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that flower in summer. It includes varieties with different sizes, leaf colors, and flowers.

Not all hebes are fully winter-hardy, and many are short-lived perennial plants. If you have a unique variegated hebe or a particularly colorful variety that you adore, it pays to take cuttings so you always have plants in your collection, just in case. As hebes will impress in borders or as evergreen container plants for structure and interest, why not propagate new ones?

Take 4-6 inch cuttings of stems where the base is firm, but the tip is soft. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the base into rooting hormone, and put the cuttings into pots of compost – again, you can put more than one per pot.

Once the cuttings have rooted and been potted up into individual pots, keep them in a greenhouse, cold frame, or on a windowsill over winter. But be careful not to overwater the plants, as young hebes are known to rot sitting in sodden soil. A soil moisture tester like this at Walmart can be used to quickly test individual pots to judge when to water plants.

6. Forsythia

The sight of bright yellow forsythia flowers heralds the end of winter. Their blooms are a welcome sight at an otherwise relatively barren time of year.

Such spring-flowering shrubs bursting into life make a big impact and lift the spirits – it is understandable why any gardeners might want to add more to their yard, whether as eye-catching stand-alone shrubs or a vivid hedge. It is not only us who revel in seeing forsythia blooms, as the flowers are also vital early-season nectar for pollinators.

If you grow forsythia, there are lots of options for cultivating new plants. You can take softwood cuttings in late spring, hardwood cuttings in winter, or semi-ripe cuttings in early fall.

When you go down the latter route of taking forsythia cuttings – September is an ideal month for doing this – the plants will develop roots quickly and can be potted on in spring. These plants should then be large enough to plant out later in the year.

7. Fuchsia

There is a diverse range of fuchsias, including hardy and half-hardy varieties. Fuchsias bring vivid color and interest to yards from midsummer through to the frosts, whether in flower beds, container gardens, or hanging baskets.

Gardeners can take fuchsia cuttings of hardy and tender plants in early fall. It is a reliable way to get new clones of your favorite plants, and an easy fallback if any half-hardy fuchsias are unfortunately lost during the winter months.

Select healthy, non-flowering shoots and take 4-6 inch cuttings with pruning snips or a sharp knife, such as this horticultural knife at Lowe’s. As with others on this list, remove the lower leaves, dip the cutting in rooting hormone, and place it in a pot filled with cutting compost – you can get 3-4 around the edge of one pot.

Cover the container with a clear plastic bag or propagator lid and put it somewhere warm and bright, but out of direct sunlight.

What to Shop

September makes a great month for planning the future garden. It is a month for planting shrubs and perennials in early fall to get them established before winter, along with thinking about seeds.

The best seeds to order in September include hardy annuals to sow directly straight away – they’ll put down roots, go dormant, then burst into life and flower early come spring – and perennials that need a period of cold stratification to germinate. Also, there are cold-hardy vegetables to plant in fall that can be sown straight into the soil.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There's nothing more welcoming in fall than a well-composed porch planter, and glorious ornamental peppers are the way to go in this season of plenty. These dramatic container favorites combine to spectacular effect with other seasonal plants to deliver a porch container with real wow factor.

Whether you've got a single statement container to fill, or you're planning on going all out with your fall porch display, I've got some practical and super-creative tips to help you make the most of ornamental pepper plants.

Ornamental peppers are among the best fall decor ideas, and learning just a little about their growing conditions will give you an odds-on chance of a dramatic, color-packed display for weeks, possibly months, to come. To kick things off, I'm sharing my favorite large brown Saabira textured planter from Crate & Barrel; it will set off those brilliant fiery colors to perfection.

Planting Companions For Ornamental Peppers

If you're in the market for some great container gardening ideas, ornamental peppers offer so many possibilities . When you're choosing plants to sit alongside them in a mixed planter, let yourself be guided by the foliage color of your chosen pepper varieties and, of course, the bright pops of red, yellow, orange and even purple that the peppers bring.

Consider also complementary plants that bring different heights and habits: in every top fall container recipe you'll need something tall for impact, something to bring movement and tacticle qualities (eg grasses) and something trailing to soften the edges of the pot.

Some of my favorites include chrysanthemums in toning shades of orange, red and yellow – especially this fabulous 'Matchsticks' chrysanthemum from Burpee, whose dramatic flower heads with quilled petals would make a wonderful contrast to the rounded baubles of some of the ornamental pepper varieties.

Grasses that work well with ornamental peppers include one of my top choices, 'Red Baron' Japanese blood grass, which you can buy at Nature Hills. Its blades are tipped with deep crimson, so it makes a brilliant partner to the deep red peppers. Carex 'Prairie Fire' from RHS is also another ornamental grass with suitably rich tones, with its cascade of arching orange-green foliage in fall.

Look to heucheras too, which will work brilliantly at the edges of mixed containers. They come in such a wide range of foliage colors – check out the heuchera selection at Garden Goods – that you're bound to find a heuchera variety that's just right for your planting combo.

A highly under-rated plant in my opinion is the viola, whose lovely cheery faces would look amazing alongside your ornamental peppers. Look for violas in tones of red, yellow and orange, or try dramatic black-veined 'Tiger Eyes' viola from RHS with black-foliage ornamental peppers.

How to Care For Your Containers of Ornamental Peppers

Ongoing care for your ornamental pepper porch container is fairly straightforward. But there are a few little jobs you'll need to do to get the most from your plants and keep them looking colorful and dramatic for weeks to come.

First of all, keep an eye on irrigation, as watering plants in containers can be a little trickier than it might seem. Ornamental peppers don't generally need heaps of water, but do water deeply once the top couple of inches of compost have dried out.

Every two to three weeks, feed your ornamental peppers with a balanced liquid fertiliser, to encourage fruit production over foliage growth. This means choosing something like Luiquinox from Lowes, which isn't too high in Nitrogen.

Keep an eye out for aphids and spider mites, which can colonise ornamental peppers, especially if the weather is warm and dry. Blast them away with a hose spray or use an insecticidal soap such as Smart Grower Neem oil & Peppermint Spray from Amazon.

How to Grow Ornamental Peppers in Pots

Providing the right conditions is crucial for a color-packed, plentiful display of ornamental peppers. These plants are members of the Solanaceae (nightshades) family, which also contains potatoes, tomatoes and, less surprisingly, edible chillies and peppers. They are natives of northern regions of South America and southwestern North America, thriving in mostly dry, sunny conditions.

To replicate those conditions in a pot on the porch, to grow ornamental peppers, you'll need to provide them with a good potting mix like Wakefiled Biochar Organic from Lowes, mixed with 20-30% vermiculite, such as Sta-Green Organic Vermiculite from Lowes, which will give ornamental peppers the decent drainage they need. Remember to plant your peppers at the same depth as they were in their nursery pots.

You'll also need to pick a spot that gets around 6-8 hours of sun per day, which means you'll likely need a south or west-facing porch, depending on what zone you're growing in. The more sun you give your ornamental peppers, the brighter your peppers will be, which is key to a dramatic fall display.

Hardy to 70°F (21°C), ornamental peppers tend to be grown as tender annuals. However, if you're in USDA Zones 9-11, you'll be able to grow them all year round. For the rest of us, we'll make the most of their upright, flame-like fruits to bring energy to our containers in a special-occasion fall and Halloween planters set piece.

In terms of container material, it's wise to go for terracotta pots, as this porous material helps to keep the soil inside from getting too soggy. Its earthen color also works brilliantly with those hot pepper tones.

Pot feet are a good idea at this time of year, as they keep containers raised off the ground where they're less likely to become waterlogged. I love these round terracotta LemonRoad feet from Amazon.

For something a little bit different, why not try a hanging basket arrangement. I adore this super modern remake, the Sphere Rust Patina from Anthropologie. Add in some complementary trailing plants (see below) and you're good to go.

Ornamental Pepper Varieties to Try

The great thing about flame-like, upward-shooting ornamental peppers – and perhaps one of the reasons why they're beginning to nudge traditional September chrysanthemums out of top spot for fall container plants – is they come in so many shapes and colors, which often shift beautifully as they mature.

Chilly Chili
The long, tapered fruits of this handsome variety extend straight up like spooky yellow and red fingers (they start off greeny yellow, developing to red but you get all stages of maturatity on the plant at once). It's a compact pepper at around 10in (25cm) tall.
You can buy Chilly Chili at Garden Goods Direct

Basket of Fire
This is an edible, compact ornamental pepper with medium heat and gorgeous fruits in red, orange, cream and yellow all at the same time. To 12 in (30cm), so brilliant for small pots or planting at the front of a larger display.
Buy Basket of Fire from Nature Hills Nursery

Black Pearl
Nothing if not dramatic, this pepper has glossy near-black foliage and clusters of small, berry-like fruits that turn from black to bright red. It's sizeable too, at around 18in (45cm), and grows into a fabulous pyramid shape.
You can buy Black Pearl at Garden Goods Direct

Sangria
A beautiful spreading, slightly trailing plant to around 12in (30cm) tall and 18in (45cm) wide with very mild fruit (useful if you're concerned about children) and stunning finger-like purple and red peppers.
Buy Sangria at Garden Goods Direct

Hot Pops
A really fun plant with small, egg-shaped fruits that point up, in colours that mature from pale yellow-green to yellow, orange and red, all at once on the same plant. Super cute at just 6in (15cm) tall.
Buy Hot Pops at Garden Goods Direct

While many ornamental peppers are edible, they can be anything from bland to bitter or extremely hot, so it's best not to eat them, unless you know exactly what you're dealing with.

Putting together a dramatic container for fall interest is one of the joys of the season. A little planning now – and make sure you put ornamental peppers at the centre of your display – and you'll have a wow-factor porchway for weeks to come .

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

When it comes to winterizing the garden, young trees are among the plants most in need of protection from frost and wildlife damage. Failing to put precautions in place could result in severe damage that results in the death of your tree.

Luckily, there are lots of winterizing tools you can use to protect young trees before winter, such as this Amazon tree guard which stops hungry wildlife attacking tree trunks.

Tree expert Carrie McClain also notes you can mulch your trees to offer insulation and should do one last water in fall to ensure they stay hydrated through winter. Here, with Carrie's insights, we explain three things to do to protect young trees before winter.

1. Keep Watering in Fall

It can be easy to assume you don't need to water plants as we progress into the colder conditions of fall and winter, but dry spells during these seasons call for watering and keeping plants hydrated.

'One of the most important and often overlooked steps is making sure young trees go into winter adequately hydrated,' says Carrie.

'Evergreens in particular continue to lose moisture through their needles during winter, so going into winter with adequate soil moisture can help reduce winter drying and browning,' she explains.

If you're concerned about overwatering during fall, you can use an Amazon soil moisture meter to check the soil and water accordingly. You should also give your trees a final deep watering before hard frosts arrive.

Our guide to watering trees in winter has more information on how to water them correctly during the coldest months.

2. Mulch Around the Base

'If you only do one thing to protect a young tree before winter, add a good layer of mulch around its base,' says Carrie.

Mulching is an essential part of overwintering a garden, where you use a layer of organic material to lock-in moisture and insulate plant roots as frost protection.

'Young trees are still developing their root systems, and mulch helps insulate those roots from extreme temperature fluctuations while also helping the soil retain moisture,' Carrie explains.

'Apply about 2-4 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded bark, wood chips or pine bark, over the root zone. Spread it outward around the tree rather than piling it against the trunk,' she advises.

It's problematic to pile mulch up against tree bark because it can trap excess moisture and encourage rot and disease. Providing a gap around the base allows for airflow and will help keep the tree healthy.

You can gather fall mulching materials from your yard, purchase brown mulch from Lowe's, or even use mulching mats (like these from Amazon) which are suited to smaller trunks of young trees.

3. Install a Tree Guard

Winter wildlife, notably deer, rabbits, and rodents, can also pose a threat to garden trees. When other food sources are scarce in fall, they may start to chew on bark and damage tree trunks. It can leave trees girdled and exposed to frost damage.

'Young trees are especially vulnerable to browsing and rubbing during the winter months. A simple wire cage or tree guard can create a physical barrier around the tree,' says Carrie.

'Make sure the protection is tall and wide enough that deer can't easily reach over or through it to browse the branches. And don't be too quick to remove that protection in spring. Tender new buds and fresh growth can be particularly attractive to browsing deer, so continue to keep an eye on young trees as they break dormancy and put on new growth,' she advises.

These Amazon tree guards are a good choice because they're expandable and can ensure trees are fully protected. They also have a mesh design that provides plenty of airflow.

Alternatively, use a simple mesh wire tree guard (like this from Walmart) to put a barrier in place and stop wildlife getting to the tree trunks.

You can help keep deer away from your yard by growing deer-resistant plants, too.

What to Shop

As well as following these steps to protect young trees before winter, it's worth reading up on how to protect trees from winter weather. This includes removing any damaged branches, wrapping tree trunks with a breathable material, and protecting potted trees.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

There comes a point in September when the garden begins to change. It isn't quite fall, but summer is undoubtedly slipping away. The evenings draw in a little earlier, just a few minutes each night. The greens aren't quite so fresh, and browning seedheads begin to outnumber flowers in parts of the border. It is a creeping change rather than a sudden one.

Perhaps that is why I appreciate the bold colors of heleniums. Their burnt oranges, rusty reds and brilliant yellows seem almost to compensate for the diminishing light and dropping temperatures. I have grown several over the years, but Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’ remains a favorite, with copper-red petals surrounding a great chocolate-brown center. For something brighter, yellow-flowered varieties such as ‘Zimbelstern’ can positively glow in the low September light.

And there are plenty of other types of helenium to choose from, whether you want something tall and dramatic or compact enough for a smaller yard. Planting helenium in fall can help fill the gaps left behind by fading summer flowers, while providing valuable late-season food for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Helenium autumnale is a good choice, available from Nature Hills. If your borders are looking a little bare this September, here are my top tips for planting heleniums now and helping them settle in before winter.

How to Plant Helenium in Fall

Heleniums, sometimes known by their rather unfortunate common name of sneezeweed, are tough perennials. Many varieties are hardy down to zone 3, although this can vary depending on the cultivar, making them a good option for gardeners across northern regions.

In their native North America, heleniums thrive in open, sunny areas, and I would always give them as much light as possible. While some varieties can tolerate a little shade for part of the day, most need plenty of sunshine to flower well.

Helenium plants are available to order now via Amazon.

Heleniums don't appreciate drying out completely, so before planting work a little compost or well-rotted organic matter into poorer soils. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball and position your plant at roughly the same depth it was growing in its nursery pot. Firm the soil gently around the roots before giving it a thorough watering.

Organic mulch is available to order now via Walmart.

September is a good time to do this because the soil is still warm, while cooler fall weather places less stress on newly planted perennials. The aim is to give your helenium enough time to establish new roots before winter arrives. In colder northern zones, however, I wouldn't leave planting too late in fall; the earlier you can get plants settled into the ground, the better.

Ongoing Care For Helenium in Fall

For newly planted heleniums, watering is the most important job during the first few weeks. While established plants are relatively tough, new additions shouldn't be allowed to dry out while their roots are settling in. Water deeply during warm or dry spells in September and October, directing the water towards the soil rather than giving the foliage a light sprinkle.

Taller varieties might also need a little support, particularly as fall brings heavier rain and stronger winds. If your helenium is leaning, a few bamboo canes or metal plant supports, available via Walmart, can help to keep those flower-laden stems upright.

I wouldn't worry about feeding newly planted heleniums in fall. If you have added compost when planting, leave them to concentrate on establishing roots rather than encouraging lots of fresh growth just as temperatures begin to fall. In fact, if you do not notice any new growth in the first fall after planting, it is nothing to worry about.

Finally, once flowering ends, there is no great rush to cut everything down. I prefer to leave at least some stems and seedheads standing through winter, where they add structure to otherwise bare borders and can provide food and shelter for wildlife. You can then cut the old growth back in late winter or early spring, ready for new shoots to emerge.

What to Shop

For more inspiration, see our guide to fall container recipes. The arrival of September and October certainly doesn't mean the end of color in the garden. Fiery flowers, changing foliage and evergreen topiary can keep borders and containers looking full of interest as the seasons turn.

In fact, I think this is one of the most enjoyable times to experiment with planting. As summer retreats, those umbers, oranges and yellows suddenly seem at home, particularly when combined with ornamental grasses and the first burnished leaves of fall (like ginkgo or aspens). Heleniums are just one way to embrace that change rather than fight it. After all, shorter days needn't mean a duller garden.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

After a summer of high temperatures, little rainfall, and more action than at any other time of year, your lawn may be struggling come September. It may look far from the lush, green carpet of your dreams and more like a patchwork quilt. However, September is an ideal window to show your lawn some love.

Lawns naturally start to recover from their summer exhaustion once the temperatures drop and they get more moisture. If you aerate, scarify, and feed as part of your fall lawn care, you can support this recuperation. The conditions in early fall are also ideal for overseeding and repairing any bare patches that opened up.

Here are our picks of crucial September lawn care tasks that will help your lawn recover from a tiring summer, be ready for winter, and come back stronger so you have a beautiful lawn next year. If you regularly invest time in lawn care, this electric aerator and dethatcher from The Home Depot is one machine in the shed for two essential seasonal tasks year after year.

1. Increase Mowing Height

A brown, patchy lawn in September means your grass is stressed. The combination of heat, dryness, and constant activity, from recreational activities to summer gatherings, takes its toll.

You do need to continue mowing your lawn in September, as the grass will keep growing until the frosts arrive. Mowing the lawn in fall keeps it neat, but you should increase the height of the lawn mower deck from what you’ve been doing in summer. It is advisable to raise the cutting height to around two to three inches.

Doing this helps the grass retain more moisture, which is vital as it recovers from the summer stress. Mowing too short in the fall can lead to weaker turf and more lawn weeds. Raise the height gradually throughout fall to prepare the lawn for the final mow of the year. This process conserves energy and helps your lawn survive the winter.

2. Aerate to Relieve Compaction

All the activity your lawn sees over the summer, from parties to playing, compacts the soil and the thatch. This compacted soil restricts the amount of water and nutrients that penetrate into the ground for the lawn to benefit from. It can be the reason for brown or bare patches of grass, or a waterlogged lawn where water struggles to soak in.

Allison Koenig, a lawn and garden expert at Tractor Supply, recommends aerating the soil in September to help it recover and bounce back again next year. ‘It is a great time to aerate your soil, which relieves compaction while also allowing oxygen, nutrients, and water to reach the roots before the ground hardens, especially for cool-season grasses like fescue or bluegrass, which thrive in the spring and fall growing seasons,’ she says.

Gardeners should aerate a lawn if they have cool-season grasses, as Allison mentioned, but not if their lawn is made up of warm-season grasses, like Bermudagrass, zoysia, and St. Augustine grass. These want aerating in late spring or early summer.

This four-row lawn aerator at Amazon has 20 steel spikes and is ideal for small lawns. For larger lawns, a rolling spiked aerator like this from Lowe’s can save time.

3. Scarify the Grass

Thatch, such as dead grass stems, roots, and moss, can accumulate during the summer. A thin layer is part of a healthy lawn, but once it gets too thick (usually over half an inch), it starts to affect your grass’ health.

September can be a time to scarify a lawn to remove thatch and prevent it from building up to excessive levels. It helps increase the water and nutrients that penetrate the soil, improves drainage, and avoids winter compaction.

Again, knowing the type of grass dictates when to scarify a lawn. Fall is a good time for cool-season grasses, but not for a warm-season lawn.

You can scarify with a spring-tined rake – a tough but rewarding job. To make things easier for a large lawn, you can get an electric scarifier. This 2-1 electric dethatcher and scarifier at The Home Depot clears 16-inch paths and includes a bag for collecting the thatch.

4. Fertilize to Strengthen the Roots

Fertilizing a lawn in fall supports the grass’s recovery and the transition into winter and beyond.

A dose of nutrients in September helps the grass strengthen its roots for winter and store food to use over the colder months. Fertilizing a lawn this month also puts it in a healthier position to grow quickly come spring, usually greening up several weeks faster than turf that was not fed in the fall.

‘We recommend fall fertilization for cool-season grasses, but less so for warm-season grasses,’ warns Jason McCausland, Technical Coordinator at Weed Man. ‘For cool-season grasses, fall is often an ideal time to feed your lawn essential nutrients. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are crucial for root development, energy storage, and overall plant health.’

This fall lawn food on Amazon restores lost nutrients and continues to feed for up to eight weeks. Apply it with a lawn spreader for even results, like this mini broadcast spreader at Walmart.

If you are planning your fall gardening checklist, it is recommended to aerate the lawn before fertilizing.

5. Overseed to Fill Patches

The conditions in September are ideal for grass seed to germinate. Warm soil, cool air, and abundant moisture make a perfect trifecta for grass seeds. Gardeners can take advantage of this by overseeding the lawn in fall to fill in any troublesome bare patches in the turf.

‘If you’re noticing bare spots in your yard, overseeding will help to fill these in – giving you a lush, green lawn come springtime,’ recommends Theresa Smith from NaturaLawn of America. ‘Doing it yourself? Apply a high-quality grass seed in the right amount using a checkerboard or crisscross pattern.’

Spreading fast-growing grass seed in September also plugs thin patches where weeds can potentially take hold.

Overseeding is best done after aerating and scarifying. Raking the grass removes thatch and identifies additional bare or thin patches, while aerating before seeding improves seed-to-soil contact to help improve germination.

The best grass seed for overseeding in the fall is fescue (Available at Amazon) or Kentucky bluegrass (available at Walmart). Spread it by hand or with a spreader. If you do it in a crisscross pattern as Theresa recommended, this helps ensure even coverage.

6. Remove Leaves

Every fall marks the start of leaves dropping from the trees. Collecting leaves is an important task that keeps your lawn healthy over winter. Leaving them in place can smother grass. This causes patchy or dying areas where the lawn can’t get sunlight or oxygen. Also, a layer of leaves stops water from reaching the roots and becomes a breeding ground for diseases.

Theresa Smith warns homeowners to ‘be mindful’ of leaves on the lawn. ‘If leaves start to fall and mat down areas, delicately remove them,’ she advises. ‘A leaf blower on a low setting is an effective tool for the task.’

A battery handheld leaf blower like this at Ace Hardware can make collecting leaves a quick task. The manual alternative is using a leaf rake.

Or, a leaf vacuum (like this 3-in-1 leaf vacuum, blower, and mulcher at Amazon) can bag up the leaves for you. It is worth making leaf mulch with them, or you can use fallen leaves to protect plants by using them as mulch on borders.

One September lawn care task that nature tends to take care of for you is watering.

If you live in a temperate climate and have a particularly warm, dry September, you may need to water the lawn in fall. However, homeowners who regularly have wetter, milder falls are unlikely to need to get the sprinklers out.

A lawn needs around an inch of water per week in September. Check how much natural irrigation your lawn gets with a rain gauge (like this rain gauge at Walmart with large, easy-to-read numbers).

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Cranesbills or hardy geraniums (not to be mistaken with pelargoniums) have a long blooming period, often lasting into fall until the first frost. In September, they start to slow down, are past their peak display, and begin preparing for fall and winter – but, they do need a little help.

If you have hardy geraniums in your yard, you'll know they can spread fast and bloom profusely, but they're fairly low-maintenance. Come September, it's important to give them a bit of a tidy up. You should remove any damaged and diseased plant matter (with something like these sharp Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon), divide overcrowded plants, and adjust your watering regime according to the seasonal shift.

As a hardy perennial (USDA zones 4-8), fall care is all about prepping these cottage garden staples for winter so they make a reliable return next spring. Here, with the help of garden pros, I talk through three key tasks to do this month.

1. Remove Disease and Damage

The first thing to do is tidy up your geraniums to remove anything damaged or diseased. This will strengthen these plants and ensure no diseases overwinter to re-emerge in spring and potentially spread elsewhere in your garden.

'You want to remove any brown or damaged leaves or any stems that have been damaged. If your geranium still looks healthy and it still has full color, then leave it alone. Cutting it back to encourage fresh growth is usually more useful right after its main flowering period than this late in the season,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

As Lindsey notes, heavy pruning should be avoided. It can encourage soft new growth that is vulnerable to frost damage, so it's best to stick to light pruning this month.

Hot and humid summer conditions can cause a few problems like bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew. If you spot these, use essential pruning tools like the Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's to remove infected plant material.

'Diseased, decaying material needs to go, and when removed, that should not go in your compost because it will just transfer that to your compost. It needs to be bagged and trashed. Healthy foliage and stems just need to be left alone. Some hardy geraniums have a fall bloom, so you want to make sure that you're not doing a full clean-up of your area until they're done,' Lindsey advises.

2. Divide Hardy Geraniums

With hardy geraniums growing so quickly (they're an excellent choice of fast-growing groundcover), they can become overcrowded in time. Every few years, it's a good idea to divide these plants to keep them productive. You'll also end up with new clumps to plant elsewhere in the garden.

'These plants respond well to division in fall (best divided every 3-5 years). Make sure each new division has healthy growth points and some roots, keep the root collar level with the ground, and prepare planting holes matching the root system size,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

September (before hard fall frosts) is a good time to divide hardy geraniums, as you want the ground to be workable for lifting and replanting.

You can use a garden trowel (like this from Burpee) or a hori hori knife (like this from Amazon) to cleanly cut and separate the clumps.

3. Water During Dry Spells

Hardy geraniums are considered fairly drought-tolerant once established and are susceptible to issues of root rot and oversaturated soil.

'In September, as temperatures drop and evaporation slows, reduce the watering schedule to prevent soggy soil and root rot before the plant enters winter dormancy,' Marina advises.

However, if there are any late-summer heatwaves or prolonged periods of drought in September, give your hardy geraniums a soaking.

Using a soil moisture meter (I like this one from Amazon), check the soil before watering if you're unsure. Ideally, you should allow the top 1-2 inches dry out before watering again.

What to Shop

Before frost, it can be a good idea to lightly mulch your hardy geraniums. There are plenty of fall mulching materials you can use, including fallen leaves, wood chips, and grass clippings. This will provide some insulation during particularly icy periods.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Black-eyed Susan, or rudbeckia, is one of the most cheerful yellow blooms to grow. When may other summer perennials fade, it continues to put on a display into fall. But, by mid-September your Black-eyed Susans may be starting to look a little tired and worse for wear – that's when it's time to give them a bit of attention.

Black-eyed Susans are hardy perennials across USDA zones 3-9, but require some post-summer care to prepare for frosts and make it through winter unscathed. Now is a good time to collect seeds and sow them for brand new plants, though you also want to ensure you leave some seedheads for wildlife to enjoy. Likewise, you can divide your rudbeckia now to reinvigorate your plants and grow more elsewhere in the garden.

Ultimately, what to do with black-eyed Susans in September is all to do with a bit of tidy up at the end of its flowering season to ensure it comes back better and stronger next year. So, with your Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's in one hand, here's what the garden experts recommend.

1. Collect Seeds

September is a good time to start harvesting black-eyed Susan seeds if the flowers have produced seedheads. You may find it has a few remaining flowers, in which case you may want to wait until October to collect seeds.

'You want to wait until the petals have fallen off and the central cone is brown, crispy, and completely dry,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck. This indicates the seeds have ripened.

'Cut off the heads and place them in a brown paper bag to allow them to keep drying,' Lindsey continues.

You should use clean and sharp essential pruning tools for this, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon.

'Once dry, you can use your hands to shake the heads and loosen the seeds. Store them somewhere dry and cool. I usually just keep mine on a shelf in the garage,' Lindsey explains.

To store seeds correctly, use a sealed seed envelope (you can pick up DIY ones from Walmart) or seed tin (like this green one rom Amazon). This will keep moisture out and ensure the seeds stay viable for planting.

2. Leave Some Seedheads for Wildlife

The best plants for seedheads not only bring architectural value to the fall and winter landscape, they also help feed birds in winter (as well as other wildlife, like squirrels) where other natural food sources are scarce.

For this reason, Lindsey recommends leaving some seedheads for wildlife to enjoy.

'After the seedheads completely dry out, the seeds tend to fall to the ground. The birds, squirrels, and chipmunks will come and eat them, which gives them food later in the season,' she explains.

In particular, American Goldfinches and House Finches are the primary birds that eat black-eyed Susan seeds.

Growing other native plants that feed birds in winter also provides a food source for wildlife. This includes chokeberry (which you can find at Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees) and coneflowers (you can find coneflower seeds at Botanical Interests).

3. Sow New Seeds

If you're wondering when to plant black-eyed Susan seeds, September is a great time to directly sow the seeds outdoors.

You can use the seeds you harvested or pick up rudbeckia seeds from True Leaf Market, and use your seed sowing kit to start growing a brand new plant from scratch.

'You can go ahead and sow them outdoors this month because fall and winter provides the cold stratification they need to germinate,' Lindsey explains.

If sowing in fall, it's best to do so on prepared ground with a well-draining, nutrient rich compost. Thinly scatter the seeds on the surface and don't bury them. Rudbeckia seeds need light to germinate. Do this before frost, when the ground is still workable.

Alternatively, you can sow seeds indoors in late winter or early spring, harden off seedlings after the risk of frost has passed, and transplant them.

This seed sowing tray from Amazon makes transplanting easy, thanks to the integrated lifting handle to remove the seedlings without disturbing roots.

4. Remove Any Diseased Plants

One of the things to clear from the yard in September before frost is diseased plants to prevent spreading. For Lindsey, black-eyed Susan is one of the most important to check.

'My black-eyed Susans are chaos gardened among other blooms, so at the end of the flowering season I always go through and remove anything diseased and dead,' Lindsey describes.

Doing so will protect your planting from overwintering diseases like powdery mildew, ensuring next year's display comes back strong and healthy.

You can use various tools to remove such plants, including this transplanting trowel from Amazon.

Anything that is dead but not diseased can be placed in your compost bin. However, there isn't a need to cut back black-eyed Susan until early spring if you would like to leave seedheads for wildlife and winter interest.

5. Divide Plants

If you want more black-eyed Susans to fill your borders and flower beds, you can divide these plants. There are two opportunities to do so: spring or fall.

'You can divide black-eyed Susans either as they enter dormancy in the fall or as they emerge from it in the spring,' says Nastya Vasylchyshyna, plant expert at Botan App.

'Divide them every few years, depending on their growth rate. To do this, simply dig up the plant, preferably digging a little away from the stems to preserve as many roots as possible. Then, use the edge of a shovel to divide it into 2-4 sections, depending on the size of the clump, and replant them in new locations,' she advises.

Dividing perennials like this every few years helps keep plants productive and reduces overcrowding. As Nastya notes, you can use a shovel or you can pick up a hori hori knife from Amazon for a more specialist tool to make clean cuts when dividing plants.

When you have replanted the new clumps of your rudbeckia, ensure to water well to help the roots settle and establish.

What to Shop

As we move later into fall, it will be important to winterize black-eyed Susans to ensure they survive the coldest conditions and re-emerge in spring with growth. This includes mulching around the base of the plant to provide insulation for plant roots. Luckily, there are plenty of free fall mulching materials you can gather from your yard.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

September is a turning point for agapanthus. After months of producing its spectacular globes of blue, purple, or white flowers, this sun-loving perennial is beginning to wind down for the season. But don't put away your gardening gloves just yet.

A little attention now can help agapanthus transition into fall and winter safely – and set the stage for healthy growth and abundant flowers next year. Whether you're familiar with the different agapanthus varieties or are learning to grow agapanthus for the first time, September is an important month to get your plants ready for the months ahead.

What you need to do in September depends largely on where you garden and which type of agapanthus you grow. In warmer parts of the US, plants may remain actively growing well into fall, while gardeners in colder USDA Hardiness Zones will need to start thinking about frost and winter protection. Here are the agapanthus jobs worth tackling this month.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers

If your agapanthus has finished blooming, September is a good time to remove faded flower stalks. To deadhead agapanthus, use clean, sharp bypass pruners and cut each spent flower stem back to the base of the plant. Removing faded stems keeps the plant looking tidy and prevents it from putting unnecessary energy into seed production.

For this job, a lightweight pair of bypass pruners is all you need. The Fiskars 5/8-Inch Bypass Pruner, available at Amazon, is a practical choice for making clean cuts through green stems. Another option is the Fiskars 8-Inch Bypass Pruner, available at Walmart, which has a 5/8-inch cutting capacity.

However, you don't have to remove every spent flowerhead. The dried seedheads can add attractive structure to a fall garden, particularly when backlit by low autumn sunshine. If you enjoy the architectural look of agapanthus seedheads, leave a few in place and remove the rest.

2. Keep Watering – but Adjust Your Routine

Don't assume cooler September temperatures mean your agapanthus no longer needs water. If you're wondering how often to water agapanthus, it depends on your climate, rainfall, and whether the plant is in the ground or a container.

Container-grown plants can dry out quickly, particularly during a warm, dry fall. Check the soil regularly and water deeply when the top few inches have dried out, making sure excess water can drain freely. For controlled watering, the Ames 7-Pattern Garden Hose Nozzle Sprayer, available at The Home Depot, offers adjustable spray settings. For smaller pots, the Fiskars Indoor and More Watering Can, available at Walmart, makes precise watering easy.

Avoid keeping the soil constantly soggy. Agapanthus prefers well-drained soil, and excess moisture around the roots can become problematic as temperatures fall.

Gardeners in hot, dry regions may need to continue watering regularly, while those in cooler or wetter areas can gradually reduce the frequency.

3. Don't Cut Back Healthy Foliage Too Early

One of the easiest mistakes to make with agapanthus in fall is cutting the foliage down simply because flowering has finished. Instead, let the leaves continue to grow for as long as they remain green and healthy. Those leaves are still capturing energy that the plant can store in its roots for the following growing season. If you need to remove dead or damaged foliage later, a pair of Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruning Shears from Home Depot can make the job easier.

If you grow a deciduous variety, the foliage will naturally yellow and die back as temperatures fall. Once it has completely died back, you can remove it. Evergreen types retain their foliage and generally shouldn't be cut to the ground in fall.

4. Know Your USDA Hardiness Zone

September is an ideal time to check your agapanthus's cold hardiness before the first frost arrives. Agapanthus varies considerably in its tolerance of cold. Some varieties can survive winters in relatively mild climates, while others need significant protection – or are best grown in containers that can be moved indoors.

Your USDA Hardiness Zone is an important starting point, but it's also worth checking the specific hardiness information for your cultivar. If you garden in a colder zone, don't wait until the first freeze is forecast to decide what you're going to do. September is the time to make a winter-protection plan.

5. Start Preparing Container Plants for Winter

One of the advantages of growing agapanthus in containers is that you can move them to a more protected location when temperatures drop. If you need to winterize agapanthus because your variety isn't reliably hardy in your area, identify a suitable winter location now. Depending on your climate and the plant's hardiness, this could be a cool garage, greenhouse, porch, or another protected space. Don't move plants into a warm, dark room for the entire winter. A cool, bright location is generally preferable, particularly for evergreen types.

Before moving a container, check it for pests and disease, remove dead foliage, and make sure the pot has adequate drainage. Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix from Amazon can be useful if a container needs fresh potting mix before being moved indoors. If the pot needs better drainage, Miracle-Gro Potting Mix is another practical container-gardening staple to have on hand when preparing plants for winter.

6. Protect Plants in Colder Climates

If your agapanthus is growing in the ground and you're in an area where winter temperatures regularly fall below its recommended hardiness range, September is the month to prepare to protect plants from frost. A layer of organic mulch around the plant can help insulate the roots when temperatures fall. Compost, shredded bark, or leaf mold are useful options. Vigoro Premium Wood Mulch from Home Depot is one option for creating a protective layer around the root zone.

Avoid burying the crown under a thick layer of wet material, however. Agapanthus needs good drainage, and prolonged cold and moisture can encourage rot. In particularly cold areas, gardeners may choose to grow less-hardy agapanthus in containers so they can be moved to shelter before winter.

7. Hold Off on Dividing Your Agapanthus

September can feel like a natural time to tackle overcrowded perennials, but resist the urge to divide plants now. Agapanthus generally benefits from being left undisturbed, and division is usually best carried out in spring as new growth begins. There's also no need to divide a healthy, flowering clump simply because it looks crowded. Agapanthus can produce impressive displays when grown as substantial clumps.

If your plant has completely filled its container, however, it may eventually need repotting. Choose a container only slightly larger than the existing one rather than dramatically increasing the pot size. A Self-Watering Planter from West Elm can be a practical choice when moving an established agapanthus into a slightly larger container.

September isn't about giving agapanthus a drastic haircut. Instead, think of it as a transition month: tidy the plant where necessary, keep the roots healthy, and prepare for the conditions your local winter is likely to bring.

Get those basics right now, and your agapanthus will have a much better chance of returning next year ready to produce the dramatic, globe-shaped blooms that make it such a standout in the summer garden.

Fall brings a huge volume of plant material and garden waste, but the good news is everything doesn't automatically need to be thrown in the trash. From composting and mulching to creating leaf mold and leaving waste to support wildlife, there are plenty of eco-friendly ways to clear yard debris.

Adding these jobs to your fall gardening checklist can help make the most of leaves, branches, stems and other garden debris, instead of simply bagging everything up. A compost bin is a good place to start (such as this 80 gallon compost bin from Amazon), helping to put healthy garden waste to good use and reduce the amount of organic material that needs to leave your yard.

Here, our experts explain the best ways to dispose of yard debris, from what to compost and what to leave in your garden for wildlife, to what should stay and what needs to go.

1. Compost Healthy Garden Waste

Knowing when to clear up garden leaves is one thing, but what to do with them is another. As tempting as it may be, you don't actually need to rake and bag up all of the fallen leaves and grass cuttings from your garden.

In fact, one of the biggest mistakes you can make is cleaning up too much, says Anna Ohler, horticulturist and owner of Bright Lane Gardens.

'We’ve been taught that gardens should be cut down and raked completely clean in fall, but that removes a lot of valuable habitat,' she says. 'Extra leaves and healthy debris can be composted.'

Composting keeps healthy, organic material in place while converting it into a valuable soil conditioner for your garden.

'Healthy leaves, grass clippings, and many disease-free garden trimmings can become a valuable soil amendment instead of ending up in a landfill,' explains Brandy Hall, regenerative landscape designer.

2. Create Wildlife Habitat From Garden Debris

Some of the materials that get cleared away can actually provide valuable shelter and food for wildlife in your garden throughout the colder months.

'Most things don’t need to be removed. In fact, a lot of what we think of as "garden debris" is actually habitat,' says Brandy.

Hollow stems can shelter overwintering native bees and other beneficial insects, while seed heads feed birds. Leaf litter also protects and nourishes the soil food web.

A healthy garden is a messy one, agrees Marcus Griswold, founder of Your Bug Club. 'Dead flowers provide food for birds. Old stems and leaves provide habitat for butterfly larvae, beetles, and many more.'

Fallen leaves are particularly valuable to overwintering insects, including firefly larvae, so Marcus recommends taking a selective approach and leaving some leaves in less-used areas, while keeping paths and other high-footfall areas tidy.

'Leave some, rake some,' he advises. 'Even a thin layer of leaves protects the insect we need to pollinate our gardens. Opt for raking or using a leaf vacuum to capture whole leaves, rather than shredding them with a mower.'

What to shop:

Adjustable Metal Leaf Rake from Amazon is ideal if you need to clear leaves from paths and other high-footfall areas.

3-in-1 Electric Leaf Blower / Vacuum / Mulcher, also from Amazon works well for larger areas, and can collect leaves without relying on a mower.

3. Build A Brush Pile From Branches And Prunings

Don't overlook larger garden debris either, says Basil Camu, a treelcologist and co-founder of Leaf & Limb. 'I'd recommend extracting the large branches and using those to create a brush pile. Then let the leaves and smaller stems and twigs rot, or add them to a bed under trees or shrubs.'

Beetles, frogs, and other small wildlife love these spaces, and beetles are especially great at preying on unwelcome pests, like aphids, says Basil.

You don't necessarily need to sort every piece of a mixed pile, either. Basil says that a mixture of different materials provides a wider range of food sources for the soil organisms and roots. So if separating the pile feels like another job, leaving smaller pieces to break down together is also an option.

4. Use Fallen Leaves As Mulch

If you have more fallen leaves than you want to leave on your lawn, moving them onto your garden beds can be a simple way to put them to good use.

'Fallen leaves are one of the best free mulches we have,' says Anna. 'They protect soil, suppress weeds, add organic matter and provide important overwintering habitat.'

Similarly, Brandy recommends moving leaves into beds and beneath trees rather than keeping them as waste.

'You don't have to leave every leaf exactly where it falls,' she says. 'Move them into garden beds, beneath trees, or other planted areas where they can protect the soil, retain moisture, provide habitat, and eventually return nutrients and organic matter to the landscape.'

5. Make Leaf Mold From Fallen Leaves

If you have more fallen leaves than you can use as mulch or leave in place for wildlife, leaf mold is another way to turn leftover leaves into a soil improver for your garden.

'Pile any extra leaves in a forgotten corner to rot', says Basil. 'After a year or so, they turn into excellent leaf compost you can use to grow vegetables, build flower beds, and feed plants.'

You don't need a dedicated setup to get started, either. A simple contained pile, ideally somewhere out of the way will work, leaving the leaves to break down naturally.

6. Remove Diseased Or Invasive Material

While there is a lot you can do with garden debris, there are some things that are better removed rather than added to compost, mulch or wildlife areas.

'The first thing we look for is anything that is clearly diseased, heavily pest-infested, or aggressively invasive,' says Brandy. 'Before deciding how to reuse organic material, you want to make sure you're not unintentionally spreading something that will be disruptive later throughout the garden.'

Anna follows a simple rule of thumb: 'I mostly reserve disposal for diseased material, invasive plants, or weeds with lots of viable seed.'

So, before adding a big pile of garden debris or spreading it around the yard, check you're not giving a disease, pest or invasive plant chance to spread.

Before burning yard debris, it's also worth checking your local rules, as regulations vary by city, county and state. Some areas restrict or ban open burning, while others require a permit when and where it can take place. If burning isn't an option, look for local yard-waste collection or drop-off sites. Check your city or county website or local fire department for the rules in your area.

What To Shop

Fall cleanup doesn't mean stripping your garden bare to feel tidy. More often than not, when it comes to what to do with fallen leaves and other garden debris, leaving more in place is often better.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

September is make or break time for fuchsias. As the weather cools, and the threat of frost is nearing, it is crucial to know how to properly care for these charming plants and prepare them for the cold months ahead.

Loved and recognised instantly for their ornate, hanging flowers, fuchsias are one of the most versatile garden plants. Producing a dazzling array of summer blooms. From slender droplets to ornate ballerinas-like blooms, they can be found filling out garden borders, adorning hedges, trained into formal standards or found spilling from window boxes, hanging baskets and planters.

From the pale and blush tinged blooms of Fuchsia 'Annabel' through to the vivid two-toned Fuchsia 'DebRon's Black Cherry, it's well worth knowing how to care for fuchsia in the fall, so you can enjoy their fascinating blooms the following year. For your potted fuchsias, our top tip is to wrap horticultural fleece from Walmart around containers before the first frost.

Continue To Remove Spent Blooms

September can bring changeable weather conditions and, depending on your location, your fuchsia's may still be flowering profusely or halting and getting ready for dormancy.

As cut-and-come-again flowers, fuchsia's readily form new buds on the tips of their branches. Look carefully and, if present, remove spent flowers knowing that new blooms will take their place.

Deadheading fuchsias can be easily done with your fingers or using garden snips, such as these micro-tipped pair from Walmart. Just be sure to pinch off the green seed pods, located just behind the flower, as well as the fading bloom.

Ease Off Watering

Early fall is the time to ease off watering fuchsia to help prepare them for the dormant season ahead. Whether you are going to lift and store tender varieties or leave hardy fuchsia in situ, stopping regular watering now is recommended to avoid root rot.

'It isn’t necessary to water in-ground Fuchsia during the Winter months as there is generally enough moisture in the soil to provide enough hydration,' explains plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'You should start taper the watering once temperatures begin to fall below 50F,' she continues.

Tender varieties that have been lifted and stored may need the occasional watering, but more on this below. If you need help monitoring moisture levels opt for a hydrometer such as this from Walmart.

Ready Hardy Fuchsia For Fall

Hardy fuchsia, such as Fuchsia magellanica are recognised and loved for their dainty and slender blooms that dangle from upright stems. Cold tolerant, perennial shrubs these plants can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9, losing their golden or dark green foliage in fall before reshooting the following spring.

When September arrives these nostalgic plants need little preparation for dormancy, as Katie explains. 'Hardy Fuchsia can be kept in the ground over Winter,' explains Katie. 'Stop fertilizing in September to prevent tender new growth from emerging. Once the first frost hits in Fall, the foliage will naturally die back. Once this happens, you can prune the stems back 4-6” from the soil level.'

Sharp and clean bypass secateurs, such as these from Amazon are ideal for this task. Katie also suggests to, 'keep the plant's base intact and insulate the crown with mulch or leaves.' Miracle Gro's Organic mulch from Walmart is great for tucking in between the pruned stems.

Prep And Move Half Hardy Fuchsia Indoors

One of the best plants for hanging baskets and filling garden containers, half hardy or tender fuchsias make for a spectacular summer and early fall display.

With their mostly ruffled and ballerina style blooms inviting close inspection, raising these plants off the ground displays them to best effect, but it can present problems when cold weather arrives. Knowing how to overwinter fuchsias is key to enjoying these fuchsias again next season.

'It’s best to stop feeding container grown fuchsia in September to stop new growth from emerging,' advises Katie. 'Clean the base of the plant, any debris such as leaves and spent blooms. This will help prevent fungal diseases and rotting over Winter. Prune the stems back about ½ to 2/3 and remove all flower buds and remaining foliage to help force the plant into dormancy before bringing the plant indoors.'

Katie adds, 'Store in a cool, dry, dark location but make sure it doesn’t freeze. The ideal temperatures are 40-50F. Water the soil just once a month to keep the roots moist but be sure to not saturate or soak the soil.'

It's worth knowing that three-leaved fuchsia or Fuchsia triphylla, with it's slim, elongated flowers, will need extra warmth to survive through prolonged cold weather.

Move indoors and consider covering with garden fleece, available from Walmart for extra insulation.

What To Shop

While summer flowering fuchsias maybe fading there are plenty of fall flowering perennials and fall flowering bulbs that can takeover and provide color and interest for months to come.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Colorful chrysanthemums blooming from porch displays on suburban U.S. streets are as much a sign that fall is here as crisp mornings and carpets of crunchy leaves.

If your usual go-to is a couple of potted mums on your doorstep, it's time to take things up a notch with this eye-catching 3-plant combo. For an outdoor fall decor idea that's instantly more stylish, mix classic mums with structural ornamental grasses and vibrant ornamental peppers.

We spoke to floral designers about how to choose the best color combinations, planting positions and complementary containers (just like this beautiful white concrete Fleur-de-Lis pedestal urn-style planter from Lowe's) for a polished porch display.

With their array of hot and spicy colors, it's not surprising that ornamental peppers (bred for their hues rather than their heat) have become more popular in fall displays. However, teaming potted chrysanthemums with these colorful plants – and tall ornamental grasses – is a sure way to turn an ordinary outdoor autumnal arrangement into a fabulous fall feature.

The 'Sangria' ornamental pepper from Plant Addicts would work perfectly in a display like this.

'Both ornamental peppers and grasses are a great addition for those who are looking to elevate their style,' says Jim Sutton, associate director of display design at Longwood Gardens.

'The red, purple, and orange hues of the peppers work well with chrysanthemums, offering a complimentary filler in a contrasting texture.

'Ornamental grasses go hand-in-hand with chrysanthemums too, adding height to otherwise low-level displays.'

This Little Bunny Dwarf Fountain Grass from Plant Addicts is a fabulous spiller, growing to around 16-20' tall. It can also be planted in flower beds as perennial.

1. Keep to a Consistent Color Palette

Working these plants into your outdoor fall decor ideas doesn't have to be difficult. Simply decide on a color palette and choose complementary tones across your chosen spectrum.

'Typically, an elevated design is one with impact, which can be achieved by using all one color or sticking to the same color family,' explains florist, Calvert Crary, founder, FlowerSchool New York.

'There’s a ton of variety in color that you can choose from to create the perfect front porch display, with fall hues aligning naturally for the season.

'Avoid using multiple colors or "polka-dotting" the blooms, unless you’re going for a wildflower farm look, which can appear messy, unless done in volume. Color consistency adds to the impact.'

This Acapulco Multicolor Ornamental Pepper from Plant Addicts offers a spectrum of firey tones from red and orange to purple.

'Chrysanthemums are the quintessential flower for the fall season and there are so many reasons to love them,' says Jim. 'Lean into fall colors of red, orange, yellow and purple. Coordinate classic fall potted mums with your front door to welcome your guests.'

2. Add Height and Texture

Once you have a color palette in mind, this will naturally influence the type or types of ornamental grasses you decide to include in your display. Think about the textures too, ornamental grasses can vary from delicate and feathery to slender and structural.

This Standing Ovation Little Bluestem Grass from Plant Addicts is a native species with a firey ombre effect.

'Texture can instantly bring depth and dimension to your design,' says Calvert. 'Using unexpected materials together, such as ornamental grasses, also offers a visual edge.

'We teach students to understand the materials they are working with (soft-stemmed vs hard-stemmed flowers; face flowers vs line or textural flowers) and to be mindful when choosing the correct vessel to support the design.'

3. Choosing The Containers

The color and design of the containers for your porch decor will be led by the hues of the plants you have selected, the size of the space and by the style of your home's exterior.

'Choose vessels with the exact same or similar shape and color versus using multiple different styles and sizes to hold your plants,' says Calvert. 'This will provide a cleaner, more intentional look.'

When choosing pots for this type of fall porch display, Jim likes to use earth tones. 'They work really well and fit the color palette,' says Jim. 'Overly bright colored containers will detract from the autumnal feel you are trying to create.'

Jim is also a fan of multiple containers of varying sizes and heights within a particular color palette.

'I find this adds to the volume and interest of any mum display,' says Jim. 'Don’t be afraid to use small blocks to raise the containers slightly and stairs to achieve height changes. Adding single pots with one specimen plant in them can also be effective.'

This pack of three terracotta planter feet from Lowe's is a simple way to increase the height of outdoor pots.

4. Putting The Display Together

When arranging chrysanthemums with ornamental grasses and peppers, you can either plant them together in one or two large pots to flank your front door in a thriller, filler, spiller formation, group the plants in individual pots or stagger them down some steps, with or without, other decorative items.

'To bring a stunning display of mums, ornamental grasses, and ornamental peppers together, start by placing the tallest plant in the back,' says Jim. 'If the tallest plant is not in a display pot, it can often be obscured by more decorative pots in front.'

'Don’t be afraid to repurpose pots from the summer season either. Remove tired summer plants to make room for fall plants,' continues Jim. 'When planting chrysanthemums, make sure that the root ball is covered over with soil.'

'Keep in mind that mums are generally going to be pot bound and be careful not to let them dry out as they will not root into the surrounding media. Drying out will shorten their display life.'

Shop Beautiful Pots

This three-plant combination is a beautiful way to elevate the classic chrysanthemum display and bring a beautiful boost of coordinated color and texture to your front porch.

'Chrysanthemums are the quintessential flower for the fall season and there are so many reasons to love them,' says Jim.

'Plant perennial varieties in the ground once they’re finished in your display, and they’ll overwinter and return the next year.'

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Fall means just one thing to us garden enthusiasts: it's time to get spring bulbs in the ground. But, before you head out to the garden center, garden experts urge you to think twice about your selection.

While the classic spring bulbs will always be cheerful with colorful blooms that have become synonymous with the start of the season, the experts say it can make planting feel a little predictable. Likewise, hybrid varieties that don't reliably return each year can be a costly habit that some find not worth it. They also advise to avoid planting any bulbs that spread so aggressively they become unmanageable.

It's for these reasons the experts avoid certain bulbs and rather opt for choices that elevate the garden, are easier to maintain, and only need planting once for multiple years of blooms. Here, they talk through five bulbs they never plant, plus what to grow instead (Burpee's range of spring bulbs is a good place to start browsing, and don't forget to stock up on essential bulb planting tools to get the job done).

1. Grape Hyacinth

Grape hyacinth, or Muscari, is a charming miniature bulb with bunches of florets that look like grapes, hence its name. However, Ian Mendoza, horticulture expert from the Botan app, says to plant them with caution.

‘Grape hyacinth spreads readily by seed and offsets and can also invade lawns if left unchecked,’ says Ian.

Muscari botryoides is even listed in the Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States and has been reported as invasive in natural areas in several states.

One of the ways to avoid this naturalizing bulb spreading is by growing it in pots, or even forcing these bulbs indoors for Christmas displays. Keeping it contained can help avoid unwanted spreading, so you can enjoy these blooms without the hassle later on.

You can pick up grape hyacinth bulbs to grow in pots on Burpee.

2. Crocus

For Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck, crocus is a spring bulb she doesn't bother with anymore.

'That's not to say everyone should avoid planting them. I have a lot of wildlife where I live, and the squirrels and mice get to the crocus bulbs before they have a chance to bloom,' she explains.

'Of course, you can plant them and stop squirrels digging up bulbs and eating them by using protective measures like wire mesh cloches (like these from Amazon),' Lindsey adds.

However, if you want something more reliable that doesn't require these extra precautions, opt for bulbs squirrels don't eat instead. This includes winter aconite, camassia, and daffodils (see the range at Plant Addicts).

3. Hybrid Tulips

There are so many different types of tulip to choose from for spring, but many are not reliable perennials. For Lindsey, it's not worth the money to keep purchasing these hybrid varieties.

'While hybrid tulips are absolutely gorgeous, most of them really decline after a year or two. It means you have to keep replanting them each year, which gets pretty expensive considering they aren't the most affordable bulbs in the first place,' Lindsey says.

'I prefer just regular tulips. I find the wildlife tends to leave those alone a little bit more, and they're much more affordable. My tulips come back year after year, yet the hybrids I've previously planted never came back more than one year after,' she continues.

Explore the tulip bulbs available at True Leaf Market.

4. Giant Allium

Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist from Flowerbulb.eu, notes that while tulips and daffodils are always beautiful to grow, her spring garden wouldn't be complete with alliums. However, instead of opting for the popular and common Allium giganteum (Giant Allium), she'd rather plant something more unexpected.

'While Giant Allium might seem common, it’s a stunner in my pollinator garden and brings that garden to life long before the perennials bloom. But, there is an allium I believe is relatively unknown and sorely underused: Allium schubertii (Tumbleweed Onion),' she says.

'Few flowers are as memorable as Tumbleweed Onion. Its spectacular blooms resemble exploding fireworks, 9-12” in diameter, with rosy-purple florets radiating from the center on long stalks to create an eye-catching starburst effect. I value the dried flower heads as much as the blooms,' Peggy Anne describes.

You can find tumbleweed onion allium bulbs on Amazon.

5. Star of Bethlehem

Another bulb the experts say to avoid is Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum), which is native to Europe, north-west Africa, and south-west Asia.

‘I will avoid planting this anywhere and everywhere because they spread aggressively and they're hard to get under control. Every bulb you plant and leave in the ground will produce another plant,’ says Lindsey. ‘There are so many other bulbs that are much better behaved,’ she adds.

In many parts of the US, Star of Bethlehem is considered an invasive bulb, where it can quickly naturalize and form dense colonies. It can dominate woodlands, meadows, and prairies, and is difficult to remove once established. For this reason, it's best to avoid and opt for native alternatives with a similar appearance.

A top choice is wood anemone (Anemonoides quinquefolia). This North American native has delicate, star-shaped white flowers and spreads naturally by underground rhizomes, making it a good choice for a woodland-style planting.

Plant Addicts has a wide range of spring flowering bulbs to explore.

What to Shop

There are quite a few bulb planting mistakes to be aware of before you get started with planting this season. It's important to space the bulbs correctly to ensure they can grow to their full potential. Likewise, ensure your soil is well-draining and nutrient-rich to give your bulbs the best chance.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

Our yards have taken a beating over the summer with relentless high temperatures and scorching sun. But if there's one plant that can revive them, it has to be Mexican sunflower.

Known botanically as tithonia rotundifolia, this tall, branching annual glows bright with its many orange and red daisy-like flowers, well until the first frosts arrive. Sending out a succession of blooms, it's vibrant presence peps up tired borders and container alike all while attracting a range of pollinators seeking out energising nectar.

A true showstopper that is surprisingly easy to grow and care for, Mexican sunflower is one of a few late summer resilient plants that no yard should be without. Check your local garden center for plants this month, or you can find Mexican sunflower seeds at True Leaf Market and get ready to sow them next spring, after the final frost.

Why Mexican Sunflowers Will Revitalize Your Late Summer Yard

The definitive, late summer yard reviver, Mexican sunflower is a joy to behold. It's tall stands of cheery orange-red flowers re-energize tired, parched borders, and mix effortlessly with fast-fading summer blooms and sun-bleached grasses.

Native to Mexico and Central America, this flowering beauty loves heat, direct sun and absolutely thrives in poor soil. A low-maintenance drought tolerant plant, it can be grown in USDA Hardiness zones 2-11, although it is best treated as an annual in zones 7 and colder.

Producing many, successive blooms, often measuring 2 to 3 inches (5 - 7.5cm) across, tithonia rotundifolia is an important source of late season nectar for bees, butterflies and other hardworking pollinators.

Reaching heights of around 28-42'' (71-106cm), these tall, branching plants make a big and useful addition to the garden.

'Tithonia is excellent at the back of a mixed border, along a fence line, or in a loose row where it can act as an informal late-summer screen,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'Compact varieties like ‘Fiesta del Sol’ are better choices for containers, but any pot should have excellent drainage and heavy enough to support the plant.'

She also adds, 'tithonia is also a strong choice for cutting gardens, because the flowers are showy, pollinator-friendly, and useful in late-season arrangements,' continues Laura.

Try sowing Tithonia Goldfinger Seed from True Leaf Market for bloom laden branches and pair them with this 3D Garden Vase from Anthropologie for a bold centerpiece.

How To Grow Mexican Sunflower

Straightforward and undemanding to grow, this specialist pollinator plant is best sown undercover 6 to 8 weeks before the final frost. 'In most regions, the most dependable approach is to start fresh seed each spring after frost danger has passed or start seed indoors for earlier blooms,' says Laura. 'Mexican sunflower can self-seed where conditions allow, but gardeners should not rely on it as a guaranteed returner in colder climates,'

Thriving in a sunny spot with well drained soil, Mexican sunflower needs little watering once established and is ideal for xeriscaping. 'One of the surprising things about Tithonia is that it does not need rich soil to grow well,' explains Laura. 'Poor to average soil is often better, because too much fertility, especially nitrogen, can push leafy, leggy growth at the expense of flowers.'

A tall plant with a spread of 14-16'' (35-40cm), tithonia's brittle stems will benefit from support, especially when occupying an exposed position. Try grow-through grids, from Lowe's installed early in summer or opt for ring supports, also from Lowes that can easily fit around taller stems.

Alternatively, surround the plant with sturdy wooden stakes firmly knocked into the ground, such as these from Amazon, and using Walmart's natural jute twine, create a supportive cats cradle or mesh to contain the stems.

Make Mexican Sunflowers Bloom For Longer

Mexican sunflowers need minimal encouragement to keep producing their cheery blooms. 'Deadheading is the best way to keep Mexican sunflower blooming. Removing spent flowers encourages the plant to keep producing buds rather than putting its energy into seed,' says Laura.

These slender-nosed snips from Walmart make nipping off spent and fading flowerheads a quick task, but for tackling a large area of flowers you could use a sharp pair of hedge shears, such as these wavy-edged ones from Walmart. Aim to cut just above a leaf node as this will encourage healing and new flower buds to form.

Leaving some seedheads to fade and ripen naturally will not only provide garden birds and small mammals, such as chipmunks and squirrels, with a nutritious food source but it can also be handy for gardeners too.

'If gardeners leave a few late-season seedheads, they may be able to collect seed for the following year,' Laura explains. 'Just note that saved seed from hybrid or selected varieties may not produce plants identical to the parent, so fresh seed is the best route when you want consistent height, habit, and flower color.'

If you do want to try collecting your own seeds, why not use these nifty Seed Packet Envelopes from Walmart and gift them to friends.

What To Shop

Extend your yard's floral display well into the cooler months with these best fall-blooming native plants and the pot plants to grow now for blooms through fall.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?

The Garden Media Group says ‘Ancient Blue’ is the Color of the Year 2027 in its Garden Trends Report. It predicts that the deep indigo hue will make a striking appearance in gardens over the coming year. While blue is a familiar color in the garden, this especially rich shade is less commonly seen and is expected to bring drama to borders and container displays, from blue hydrangeas to brightly glazed pots.

Ancient Blue is rooted in the Egyptian history of synthetic pigments. As the report describes, it's a 'deep, storied color' associated with 'gods, emperors, and empires.' According to the 2027 Garden Trends Report, the popularity of Ancient Blue reflects a growing desire for 'rich, timeless hues over fads.'

It's the perfect pick to create striking focal points among any garden color scheme in the coming year. Think statement blue hydrangea hedges, spikes of delphiniums and lupines in sweeping borders, and cornflowers filling gaps in flower beds (it can be as easy as scattering these cornflower seeds from Amazon).

What is Ancient Blue?

As the Garden Media Group puts it, 'the world's oldest color is having a moment.'

Blue is considered the oldest synthetic color, dating back to Egyptian blue or 'artificial lapis lazuli' painted on tombs and in Raphael's frescoes. Alongside it, another color carried high status.

'Tyrian purple, which takes 12,000 sea snails to make one gram, was worth more than gold, reserved for emperors,' the report explains.

'For 5,000 years, blue belonged to gods and emperors. And now, for the first time in centuries, the ancient world's two greatest colors are being reborn by modern science,' it continues.

In 2027, this indigo-blue shade is set to be the most elevating choice to add richness and timelessness to planting. Through blue flowers and garden accessories, Ancient Blue can create breathtaking moments in outdoor spaces.

'Blue reduces stress, lowers blood pressure, and increases relaxation, which is why spas are built around it. In a world of dopamine overload, people like how it makes them feel,' the report writes.

It naturally falls under garden design to improve mental health and is an obvious choice for a wellness garden, creating an outdoor space that is visually calming and offers an escape from hectic everyday life.

'Blue is 'the new neutral' in interiors,' the report states. 'Designers are drenching entire rooms in it for serene, cocoon-like environments. What happens inside always comes outside next.'

Ancient Blue in the Garden

Finding Ancient Blue in the garden isn't so easy as pinks and yellows. 'True blue appears in less than 10% of all flowering plants, the hardest color to breed, the most coveted to grow,' the Garden Trends Report notes.

Among the choice are blue hydrangeas (like this Nikko Blue Hydrangea from Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees), 'Little Blue Fountain' agapanthus (available at Plant Addicts), Starflower 'Jessie' (bulbs available on Amazon), and delphiniums (see the range available at Nature Hills).

You can also incorporate Ancient Blue into the garden through accessories. This blue vintage-style flower pot on Amazon would look charming potted up with orange marigolds as a complementary color. Or, style this metal blue watering can from Amazon on your potting bench to double as decor between use.

You can bring it indoors, too. Blue houseplants have been known to have a calming effect in interiors, like this blue echeveria from Walmart. Houseplant care accessories, like this blue glass plant mister from Amazon, can also be styled on shelves and coffee tables.

If you are considering adding a blue hydrangea to your garden to embrace Ancient Blue, our guide to keeping a hydrangea blue may be useful. It can be worthwhile to invest in aluminium sulfate for hydrangeas (like this from Amazon) if you're keen to maintain its bright, beautiful hue.

If you love inspiring garden ideas, outdoor advice, and the latest news, why not sign up for our newsletter and get the latest features delivered straight to your inbox?