Warm summer temperatures call for evenings spent outside, and evenings spent outside call for ample outdoor lighting ideas – to set the mood, to create an inviting atmosphere outdoors, and to keep things illuminated after the sun goes down.

Though traditional outdoor light styles like pendants, string lights, and portable lamps are essential for brightening dark outdoor areas, I've found a portable light that blends so effortlessly into the landscape. It's called the Solar Pebble Light from Anthropologie, and as the name suggests, it looks just like a glowing pebble – an organic shape that would be perfectly disguised on a lawn, patio or poolside.

This pebble light is one of the most unique outdoor lights I've seen this summer with its organic, stone-inspired shape and soft light output. Unassuming during the day, its solar panels will soak up the sun, and at nightfall, its magical glow will subtly illuminate your patio, yard, or garden.

Being portable and solar powered, it can be positioned anywhere you want it to – so long as it has access to the sun to charge. Get a few and use them as chic walkway lights or patio perimeter lights, or scatter some within your flower beds to create a whimsical garden scene. This solar light will look best when it's naturally integrated with your existing plants and backyard decor, as if it were always meant to be there.

This solar pebble lamp reminds me of how important it is to plan outdoor lighting with the same thought and intention as indoor lighting. It's not all about having one big light; in fact, most spaces – inside or out – look better when light is layered with other light features and at varying levels.

Since this light is meant to rest on the ground, it creates a base layer of lighting for your outdoor space. I'd complement it with some mid-level lighting, like an outdoor wall sconce or a table lamp, and complete the scene with overhead lighting. Each of these layers can set the mood for different scenarios – the table lamps and overheads for outdoor events like dinner parties or game nights outside, and the ground-level pebble lights for quiet, cozy evenings outdoors.

If you're looking for more solar light ideas to complete your outdoor lighting scheme, find my favorites below. From hanging lanterns to sparkler-like stake lights, these solar light choices are bound to light up your outdoor space in style.

Shop More Solar Garden Lighting

Though some may not see it as a necessity, I think Anthropologie's Pebble Solar Light is exactly the light source you need to make your outdoor space come to life this summer. It's a whimsical secondary lighting detail that'll bring layers to your garden – making it look and feel much more complete.

But it's not the only outdoor light I have on my wish list. Check out IKEA's chrome portable outdoor lamp – arguably the chicest way to light up any outdoor dinner table after the sun goes down.

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Keystone planting is all about designing your yard with the needs of your local ecosystem at its heart. Many garden trees and plants bring very little to the biodiversity party. Others, and here I'm mainly talking native species, are critical to the survival of local wildlife and, ultimately, the entire food chain. They're the vital pillars of our ecosystem.

This important approach to landscaping isn't necessarily about rewilding, or allowing your backyard to be reclaimed by nature. It's firmly rooted in common sense – planting the right plants for your zone in the right place. Not only will it bring all the wildlife to your yard, but it will also gift you with a climate-resilient outdoor space that thrives on neglect without the need for chemical intervention.

If you worry you don't have the knowledge for this new direction, which is one of the easiest of backyard ideas, there is always time to learn new skills. I guarantee this quick and simple crib sheet will have you rethinking your planting and embracing a brilliant and biodiverse way of gardening.

What is Keystone Planting?

As Mirela Bajic of House Designer explains, you needn't worry about compromising the aesthetics of your space if you're keen to incorporate keystone planting:

'Homeowners have started to realize that a beautiful garden and an ecologically useful garden do not have to be different things. This is also changing the way designers actually specify plants, moving away from purely ornamental choices toward plants that earn their place ecologically.

'Keystone planting doesn't mean a wild or messy garden. It's about choosing more carefully, not designing less.'

Of course those plants that are most beneficial to your particular wildlife will vary hugely, depending on where you live. Plants that draw in the pollinators in Florida won't thrive in northern regions of the US and vice versa. In the UK, wildlife-supporting native species are different again.

It's also important to bear in mind that plants can be beneficial for insects in various ways, as hosts and food sources for butterflies and moths, for example, as food sources for their caterpillars, or shelter over winter.

The Benefits of Keystone Planting

It's a given that keystone planting in your backyard is a failsafe way to support your local ecosystem (which will in turn keep pests at bay). But did you know that by planting trees, shrubs and perennials that literally have their roots in local soil, you will make your life easier too?

Mirela is keen to stress that by no means do you need to start from scratch when considering introducing a few keystone species.

'Keystone plants are species that have a large ecological impact relative to their abundance. In garden design it means choosing plants that support the widest possible range of wildlife, particularly insects and pollinators.

'You don't need to redesign your whole garden to implement keystone planting. You can simply swap one ornamental shrub for a native alternative. Add a small wildflower patch in an existing border. Another tip is to leave ivy on a fence rather than cutting it back.'

So keystone planting is about a shift in thinking, towards native planting, rather than a whole new way of gardening. You will also find that your native species need much less, if any, pampering, as they are innately adapted to your particular soil and weather conditions. This means less watering, pruning and tidying for you.

Shop native plants at Nature Hills Nursery

Some of the Best US Keystone Plants

Sunflowers (Helianthus)
Not just the tall single-flowered annual varieties, Helianthus is a genus that includes around 50 wild species native to North America. They support a vital network of birds, pollinators and insects with their seeds and pollen.

Shop 'Autumn Gold' helianthus at Burpee

Goldenrod (Solidago)
A pollinator magnet with more than 100 different US species, this is a vital plant in the US ecosystem, supporting migrating butterflies, moths and bees in late summer and into fall. It's South Carolina's state wildflower too.

Buy 'Fireworks' goldenrod at Nature Hills Nursery

Oak (Quercus)
Officially designated the National Tree of the United States in 2004, it has more than 60 native species and is an ecological powerhouse supporting hundreds of insect species with food and shelter. Remember it's huge, so only for sizeable backyards!

Shop oak trees at Fast Growing Trees

Hydrangeas (abrborescens and quercifolia)
The colorful mophead varieties are in fact from Asia and of far less importance in terms of biodiversity. Midwestern US natives oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) and smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) are some of the best hydrangeas to grow, supporting a wide range of pollinators and wildlife.

Buy Hydrangea arborescens at Burpee

Shop oakleaf hydrangeas at Nature Hills Nursery

Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia)
Some of the best rudbeckias are included in around 30 species native North America (mainly central and eastern areas), supporting biodiversity as vital pollen sources for insects and food sources (the seedheads) for goldfinches and other birds.

Buy 'Goldsturm' Rudbeckia at Burpee

Cherries & plums (Prunus)
There are around 20 native cherry and plum species in the US, including American plum (Prunus americana), which thrives in eastern and central regions, and the beach plum (Prunus maritima), native to the Atlantic coast and famously resilient even in sandy and salt-laden coastal environments.

Browse cherry trees at Fast Growing Trees

Maples (Acer)
The red maple (Acer rubrum) is the most abundant tree in Eastern North America, but for the most fiery fall foliage – and maple syrup – try the sugar maple (Acer saccharum).

Browse maples at Nature Hills Nursery

Asters (Symphyotrichum)
There are a staggering 120 native species of aster in North America, making them a crucial keystone plant, providing vital late-summer nectar and pollen for pollinators (notably Monarch butterflies) and supporting more than 100 species of moth and butterfly caterpillar.

Find asters at Nature Hills Nursery

Milkweed (Asclepias)
A specialist insect magnet, milkweed is present in more than 100 native species across the US. It's also the exclusive host plant for monarch butterfly caterpillars. How to grow milkweed is an easy enough garden task.

Shop milkweed at Amazon

Birch (Betula)
Known as a pioneer species, there are around 12 native birch in the US, mainly in temperate northern zones. This pioneering quality means they thrive in disturbed ground, quickly colonising and improving shallow soils .

Crabapple (Malus)
A keystone species with a long season of wildlife interest, their spring flowers feed native butterflies and bees, the leaves host caterpillars and their long-lasting fall fruit are essential food for birds, deer and other mammals. Learning how to grow a crabapple is within the reach of any gardener.

Find crabapples at Fast Growing Trees

Lupine (Lupinus)
A staggering 150 native species exist in the US, mainly in western zones. They're vital for dozens of endemic and rare species of insects, and crucial atmospheric nitrogen 'fixers', which enrich the soil. Sundial lupine (Lupinus perennis) is the exclusive host plant for the caterpillars of the endangered Karner blue butterfly.

Shop lupines at Burpee

How to Introduce Keystone Favourites to Your Yard

So to the practical design elements involved in creating a harmonioius backyard with keystone planting. As always in garden design, less is more. By this I mean not fewer plants (cram in as many as you can – there's no limit to the number of plants you should include in your outdoor space!), but fewer species.

A garden with large, bold blocks of planting (like the simple three-plant formula for a more designed backyard) will be more calming and harmonious, leading the eye naturally through the whole space with long, slow pauses.

Then repeat your planting blocks throughout the space to create grounding visual links. Not only will this make your garen feel more coherent, it's also a boon for butterflies and bees, which makes it easier for them to find their favourite plants.

The species you turn to to create a beautiful yard majoring in keystone plants will depend on your area and its native trees, shrubs and perennials. Be sure to research your localized keystone species and make a list of your favourites – this way you'll support local species and have a garden full of thriving, easy-to-care-for plants.

'Homeowners are becoming more aware of biodiversity loss and want their gardens to contribute something,' says Mirela. With a changing climate and so much of our wildlife under threat, it's more important then ever to consider biodiversity in our backyards. Every space, large or small, makes a difference.

So whether you're adding a few sunflowers or swapping mophead hydrangeas for more beneficial arborescens or quercifolia species, every little helps – and you'll be tapping into a movement that landscapers and garden designers everywhere are picking up on with enthusiasm.

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Christmas cacti aren't just festive houseplants. With the right year-round care, they can thrive for decades – even more than 100 years – rewarding you with healthy summer growth and vibrant winter blooms.

Often dismissed as a seasonal decoration, a Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is actually a long-lived, easy-going houseplant that earns its place in your home all year round. This guide to Christmas cactus care covers the essentials, while what to do with a Christmas cactus in July focuses on the key midsummer tasks that support strong, healthy growth.

July is one of the most important months in its growing calendar. While flowers are still months away, your Christmas cactus is actively producing the healthy new stem segments that will support this year's display. The care you give it now – from watering and feeding to light and pest checks – lays the foundation for vigorous summer growth and abundant winter blooms.

If you're looking to add one to your collection, the Christmas Cactus from Plant Addicts is a beautiful, established plant that's ready to thrive with the right care. It's already made its way into my shopping cart.

1. Water Consistently, but Let the Compost Dry Slightly First

Christmas cacti appreciate more moisture than desert cacti, but they still dislike sitting in wet compost. During July, warmer temperatures usually mean they need watering a little more often, especially if they’re growing in a bright spot. Before you water a Christmas cactus, check that the top inch of compost feels dry – tools like the Xlux Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can take the guesswork out of timing.

If you find it tricky to keep up during peak summer heat, Iridescent Self-Watering Globes offer a simple, stylish way to maintain steady moisture levels while helping to avoid overwatering.

When you water, do so thoroughly, allowing any excess to drain away completely. Never leave the pot sitting in water, as prolonged soggy conditions can quickly lead to root rot. In particularly warm homes, the plant may dry out faster than expected, so it’s best to respond to the compost rather than stick to a fixed schedule.

2. Feed During Active Growth

July falls within your Christmas cactus’s active growing season, making it a good time to fertilize a Christmas cactus. A balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer applied every two to four weeks provides the nutrients needed for healthy stem development – products such as TPS Christmas Cactus Fertilizer from Amazon are specially designed for this stage of growth. For a lighter, more convenient option between feeds, Gardenera Professional Succulent Spray Fertilizer Mist can also be used to gently support healthy growth.

Avoid overfeeding, however, as too much fertilizer can encourage weak, leggy growth rather than strong, compact plants. Stop feeding toward the end of summer, before the plant begins preparing for its flowering period.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Light levels are at their strongest in July, so now is a good opportunity to check whether your Christmas cactus is receiving the right amount. A bright room with filtered light is ideal – place a Christmas cactus a few feet back from a sunny window if needed to soften the intensity.

Too little light, or keeping a Christmas cactus in the dark, can slow growth significantly, while intense afternoon sunshine may scorch the flattened stems, leaving them bleached or reddish.

If your plant has been sitting on a south-facing windowsill, consider moving it slightly back from the glass or using a sheer curtain to diffuse the light during the hottest part of the day.

4. Move It Outdoors if Conditions Are Right

Many gardeners successfully move their Christmas cactus outdoors for the summer, where higher humidity and better air circulation can encourage vigorous growth. If you choose to place a Christmas cactus outside, select a sheltered position in dappled shade, protected from strong winds and direct midday sun. Morning sunshine is generally fine, but harsh afternoon rays can scorch the flattened stems and damage the foliage.

Before moving a Christmas cactus outdoors, wait until nighttime temperatures stay consistently above 55°F (13°C). Once outside, continue checking the compost regularly, as pots tend to dry out more quickly than they do indoors, especially in warm or breezy conditions.

5. Check Regularly for Summer Pests

Warm weather can bring unwanted visitors, particularly if your Christmas cactus spends time outdoors. Christmas cactus pests such as mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites can quickly take hold in summer conditions, so inspect the stems every week. Pay particular attention to the joints between stem segments, where pests often hide.

If you notice an infestation, isolate the plant and remove insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or treat more widespread issues with a horticultural spray such as Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil. Catching problems early helps prevent damage and keeps the plant strong ahead of the flowering season.

6. Propagate Healthy Stem Segments

July isn't usually the time for heavy pruning, but it is an excellent month to propagate a Christmas cactus. Healthy stem segments root readily in warm temperatures. Simply twist off a section containing two or three stem segments, allow it to callus for 24 hours, then insert it into a free-draining cactus or succulent potting mix.

Keep the compost lightly moist while roots develop. Not only is propagation an easy way to expand your collection, but removing a few healthy segments can also encourage a fuller, bushier plant over time.

Shop Christmas Catcus Essentials for July

July is all about giving your Christmas cactus the care it needs to grow well. Do it right now, and you’ll get healthier growth through summer and better blooms at Christmas.

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The best outdoor gatherings aren't always about lavish decor in grand settings; some of the most memorable occasions take place in the smallest spaces, which create intimacy, warmth, and conviviality.

However small your outdoor entertaining area – whether a tiny terrace, a bijou balcony or a petite patio – there are plenty of clever styling and hosting tricks that you can try to transform it into a wonderfully inviting and transportive al fresco entertaining space.

We've asked designers to share their best outdoor dining ideas for making small terraces work harder, from clever layouts and foldable furniture to creating ambiance with light and fire, as well as vertical styling tricks with planting and storage.

With just a few cleverly thought-out styling ideas, you can create a space that will emulate lush Mediterranean terraces, chic brownstone patios, and elegant Parisian balconies, which are just perfect for entertaining.

1. Maximize Space with Built-in Seating

When your outdoor space is small, built-in seating can be a practical and stylish option. The dual-level wooden bench seating shown above has been combined with a bistro set, allowing for flexibility depending on the number of guests, and the bench can double as surface space for small plates and glasses. Plus, it makes an excellent outdoor storage solution for spare throw pillows and blankets that you can pull out if the evening gets cooler.

Gardener and landscaper Lilly-Joan Richardson explains, 'Built-in seating can be an excellent solution for small patios, as it maximizes available space while providing valuable storage. The key is getting the proportions right, so the design feels welcoming rather than overly structured or clinical. Timber helps soften the overall aesthetic and, when combined with other materials, creates a more layered and visually interesting scheme. Adding cushions can further enhance the sense of comfort.'

2. Add Statement Furniture for a Boutique Hotel Look

You don't need an outdoor dining table to be able to entertain al fresco stylishly. This balcony features some of the best outdoor furniture, bringing a boutique hotel vibe with statement seating and bold print cushions, and a luxe marble coffee table – a chic alternative to a dining table with a smaller and lower profile. Serving sharing-style platters from a coffee table makes for a more intimate and relaxed evening, and doesn't have to sacrifice on style if you choose the right pieces.

Interior designer and founder of Studio Formichella, Rebecca Formichella explains, 'Instead of dedicating valuable terrace space to a dining setup that’s only used occasionally, we’re increasingly opting for a more intimate, less formal approach to outdoor entertaining. Think oversized seating, sculptural lounge chairs, and substantial outdoor coffee tables that encourage guests to settle in, relax, and connect. This effortless setting creates a more relaxed, hospitality-driven experience where conversation naturally takes center stage.'

3. Opt for Picnic-Style Bench Seating with Tactile Touches

Bench-style seating invites everyone to squeeze in, get cozy, and come together over conversation and good food. Interior designer and founder of Rediger Design, Brittany Rediger, says, 'When you're working with a small terrace, bench seating is one of the smartest moves you can make. It doesn't require the same pull-out clearance as a chair, which immediately gives you more flexibility around the dining table. You can also seat three people on a bench in the same footprint that two chairs would occupy.'

It's not always the most comfortable if you're sitting for a while, though, so providing some cushions (like this long outdoor seat cushion from H&M Home) and blankets will make it feel more welcoming. As Brittany adds, 'The comfort concern is easy to solve. A good cushion changes everything, and layering in outdoor pillows and a throw softens the whole space without adding bulk.'

Other elements like an outdoor rug bring softness underfoot, and a pergola with optional shade or rain cover will mean the gathering can go ahead whatever the weather. 'An outdoor rug grounds the space the same way it would indoors. Overhead lighting, whether pendant fixtures or string lights, creates an anchor point above the table and extends the space well into the evening,' concludes Brittany.

4. Use Natural Texture to Add Interest in Small Spaces

Choosing outdoor furniture in natural materials such as rattan or woven textures ensures that it blends with its al fresco surroundings – so it doesn't feel too big for the space – and brings a welcome tactility. Combined with textural planting and pots, this small terrace has been transformed from a characterless box to an elegant Mediterranean-inspired entertaining space. You can also create an instant natural backdrop with something like this mixed willow privacy fencing from Anthropologie, while you're waiting for the taller plants to grow in.

Aly Morford, co-founder and principal designer at Pure Salt Interiors, says, 'For petite patios, thoughtful furniture makes the greatest impact. While a smaller footprint calls for fewer pieces, a sculptural table and chair set can anchor the space with character and presence. Natural materials and rich textures lend an organic, effortless feel, while layers of greenery soften the design and create a sense of abundance without overwhelming the eye.'

5. Create Defined Zones with Clever Landscaping

Clever landscaping is one way to make a small patio feel expensive. Splitting a square plot over different levels can help you to zone it into defined areas. Above, for example, the barbecue is on the lower level, while the seating area is slightly higher up, allowing the host to serve their guests easily, without everyone feeling on top of each other.

Hay Hwang Kitchin, co-founder of The Gardenists, explains, 'Level changes are one of the most effective tools we have in a small backyard, because they let you define separate areas without building walls that close the space down. This creates a natural sense of journey and gives each zone its own character, meaning that a modest footprint feels considered and generous rather than cramped.'

An effective way to maximize the space is by making the landscaping work harder. 'Steps and raised edges can double as casual seating and concealed storage, so every level earns its keep. Counterintuitively, dividing a small space well is what makes it feel bigger – it reads as a series of rooms rather than one tight square,' adds Hay.

The irregular paving and planting also add interest and a subtle border between the upper and lower levels. 'A shift in the paving material – or simply changing the direction it's laid – signals that you're moving from one space to another, and a band of planting acts as a soft, living threshold. It's a gentler way to zone a garden, and it ages far better than hard divisions,' Hay explains.

6. Choose Furniture That Blends in For the Illusion of Space

Colorful furniture is a big outdoor furniture trend for 2026, and this look both taps into that and serves the additional function of drawing the eye to the natural planting. The streamlined profile of the chairs and table is the perfect choice for this small terrace, while the leafy green hue blends in with the surrounding greenery so that it almost disappears into the background.

This 3-piece bistro set from Target is a great choice as it slots together neatly in a space-saving silhouette when not in use. Metal furniture is also a really practical choice for entertaining as it's wipe-clean and waterproof, so won't be damaged by any spills.

Lilly-Joan Richardson explains, 'Green powder-coated metal furniture has made a comeback in recent years and has become a popular choice. Its appeal lies in its ability to blend effortlessly into a garden setting without overwhelming the space. The design is equally important; many pieces have a light, open structure rather than a solid appearance, helping to create an airy and uncluttered feel. The result is a cohesive look that helps tie the entire garden together.'

7. Make it Warm and Intimate with Mood Lighting

However small your space, knowing how to plan outdoor lighting can be totally transformative. In the above example, the small terrace with its high wall could feel a little oppressive; however the addition of warm lighting behind the artificial living wall feature brings an amber glow and an almost tropical vibe to the space.

'In a small outdoor space, lighting does more than almost any planting choice,' explains Hay Hwang Kitchin. 'It's what turns a daytime terrace into somewhere you actually want to be after dark. We avoid flat overhead light entirely and layer it instead: warm uplighters grazing the trees and living wall to catch texture and throw soft shadow; low glows along the seating and steps, all on dimmable circuits, so the space can shift from a working light to a candlelit mood in seconds.' These rust-colored outdoor uplighters from Home Depot are ideal for highlighting a feature without jarring with the natural aesthetic.

Hay adds, 'Keeping the color temperature warm – around 2700K, and concealing the fittings makes it feel intimate rather than functional.' The artificial wall adds 'depth, texture and greenery at eye level so the high wall recedes and the enclosure starts to feel like a cocoon rather than a constraint,' Hay explains. A good-quality artificial option is low-maintenance, too, and stays green all year round. Comfortable seating in earthy hues and a green velvet cushion add texture and complete this inviting space.

8. Switch to a Round Table and Low-Slung Seating

If you want to elevate your outdoor living room and dining space but don't have the room to create defined zones for each, opt for a furniture setup that works for both. A small-footprint round table should be large enough for a sharing platter and a few glasses, while some relaxed, yet stylish, low-slung seating works equally well for dining and lounging.

Cindy McKay, founder of Cindy McKay Interiors, explains, 'A smaller round table offers an ideal conversation zone vs a longer rectangular table, where you can’t see or chat with everyone. Round tables often fit better in smaller spaces and are much more intimate. I love the flexibility of low-slung seating, as by day it can serve as an outdoor living room or reading zone, and by evening it can be easily transformed for cocktails and dining.'

9. Create a Multifunctional Space With a Fire Pit Table

When space is at a premium, pieces that work twice as hard are essential, which is why a multifunctional item like a fire pit table is a wonderful choice. It's one of the best backyard fire pit ideas as it not only works as an alternative table space by day, but can transform a small terrace into a warm and atmospheric space by night, creating a focal point and a reason for guests to linger.

Ushi Schick and Zoe Pinksa, co-founders of Sidemark Studio explain, 'A fire pit table is especially well suited to a small terrace because it does double duty without taking up extra space. By day, it functions as a useful surface for drinks, small plates, or casual entertaining, and by night, it instantly creates a natural gathering point. It allows a compact outdoor space to feel more layered, inviting, and usable across different times of day and seasons.'

Entertaining Essentials for Your Small Outdoor Space

There's no need to be limited by a small square footage when you love to host outdoors. With thoughtful styling and flexible furniture, you can create a layered ambiance and a multi-functional space for elevated gatherings. To recreate this same intimacy in a bigger space, you'll need our 3-zone outdoor hosting guide for inspiration.

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July offers gardeners ideal conditions for planting many ornamental and edible plants. The summer days are warm and long, making it a very productive time for sowing, as seeds will germinate and grow quickly. Whether you aspire to grow flowers, vegetables, herbs, or all three, we look at what to plant in July.

The truth is, there is a fantastic range of plants to sow that can provide blooms or crops for a very long period of time. From fast annuals for late summer to perennials for spring blooms. And speedy crops for quick harvests to hardier winter crops for food during the colder months. The one task you’ll need to remember this month is to water any sowings deeply after planting to stop the soil drying out.

To fill your garden with plants, why not take advantage of the great conditions in July? This guide to what to plant in July covers vegetables, flowers, bulbs, and herbs to boost your backyard ideas. You’ll get beautiful displays, bountiful harvests, and a colorful, packed garden to enjoy for many months, or even years.

Plant Fast-Growing Annuals for Summer Color

You may look out across your garden and see flowers in full bloom, but it is not too late to add to this year’s display.

A great selection of fast-growing annual flowers, including zinnias, marigolds, cosmos, viola, and nasturtium, can be sown this month into beds or containers and give you a beautiful display in the weeks and months to come.

These plants can be sown directly into their growing position, or started indoors and transplanted.

If you opt for the latter, biodegradable pots offer an ideal solution, as you’ll avoid disturbing the roots when you transplant the seedlings. You can get biodegradable fiber pots at Burpee.

Plant Perennials For Future Displays

July offers a chance to plan for the future and start growing perennials that can bring color and texture to flower beds for years to come.

Starting perennials from seed is a cost-effective way to bolster and boost your future displays, and you can admire the blooms each year with the satisfaction that you have grown that plant from scratch.

You can sow seeds of delphinium, columbine, coneflower, foxgloves, and lupins in July. These are best sown into trays or pots filled with a quality seed compost, like this organic seed starter at Amazon. The plants can be potted up after they germinate and planted out either in fall or the following spring.

Plant Biennials

July is also the window for planting biennials that will bloom in 12 months. These plants will develop foliage this season, and burst into flower next year – often coming to the fore in the gap between the spring bulbs and the summer perennials.

Biennials are very useful yet often underrated plants, usually overshadowed by their annual or perennial counterparts. But they do offer a valuable role to gardeners looking for color and texture throughout the seasons.

Biennials you can sow this month include sweet williams, foxgloves, honesty, and wallflower.

Plant Fast-Maturing Vegetables

In July, the warm soils and air provide an ideal environment for sowing fast-growing vegetables directly into the ground with a view to enjoying harvests in summer and early fall.

Summer lettuces, turnips, radishes, beets, and fast-maturing varieties of carrots top the list of speedy crops to sow.

Keep the soil consistently moist for great germination and healthy growth, and thin seedlings as they develop to give the veggies room to grow.

Also, regularly weed around plants with a garden hoe to eliminate any unwanted competition for water and nutrients. Depending on the crop, you’ll be able to start harvesting in as little as 30-40 days.

Plant Winter Crops

As well as short-term harvests, you can think longer term by sowing and planting vegetables in July that will reward you with harvests throughout the colder months.

While temperatures may be warm, a good number of hardy vegetables can be planted this month to pick well into fall and winter, and potentially even in spring.

Brassicas like kale, cabbage, and cauliflower, as well as Swiss chard, leeks, and corn salad, will get going in summer, and their growth slows come fall.

But the crops continue to develop and will be ready for picking in late fall or winter, or they can be left to overwinter in the vegetable garden for spring harvests.

Plant Fall-Flowering Bulbs

When you mention bulbs, most people will first think of spring bulbs, then potentially summer bulbs.

Unfortunately, fall-flowering bulbs are often overlooked. Don’t let that be the case, as July is an ideal time to plant them while they are dormant, and they will burst into glorious flower come fall.

Colchicums, also known as autumn crocus, are my favorite, offering delicate pink or purple flowers before any foliage (which appears in spring). Also, cyclamen, oxalis, and nerine can all be planted this month to bring color to the garden later in the year.

The planting rules for fall-flowering bulbs are the same as any others – plant them in well-draining soil and at a depth two to three times their height.

Plant Speedy Herbs

It is not too late to plant herbs for picking this season to use in the kitchen. Whether in a herb garden, herb planter, or on a windowsill, there is still time for homegrown pickings, all thanks to some of the fastest-growing herb plants.

The likes of cilantro, dill, basil, chives, and parsley all germinate speedily and can go from sowing to picking in 60 days or under.

All of those mentioned can be sown directly into the soil this month. Sow the seeds thinly in rows spaced about 12 inches apart, cover them with a thin layer of soil, and keep the soil consistently moist.

Direct sowing is best, as some of those mentioned, particularly dill and cilantro, have taproots and dislike being transplanted.

When discussing what to plant in July, we need to touch on shrubs and trees. While container-grown plants can theoretically be planted in July, it is not a recommended time for planting shrubs or trees.

The hot temperatures and dry conditions not only put the plants at risk of stress but places extra responsibility and workload on the shoulders of gardeners to keep the soil moist in summer. It is better to wait until conditions are cooler to add these larger plants to your garden.

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Aside from their beauty, we love Mediterranean gardens for their ability to transport us to sunnier places, with slower paces, reminding us to relax and take it easy. And while it helps to live somewhere hot to create one, it's not essential.

From white-washed casitas and rustic stone to terracotta pots and gravel surfaces, there are certain elements that broadly capture this look – which, of course, spans many different cultures.

However, particular plants are a common thread in many Mediterranean gardens too, whether they are in Italy, Spain, France, Greece or any of the other countries that border this stretch of sea and encapsulate this style. Some of these plants will even grow in more temperate places – and you don't need a large garden either. If you would like to create a Mediterranean retreat in a small space, these are the best seven plants to grow, according to horticultural experts.

'A Mediterranean garden draws its character from the climate it comes from (long, hot, dry summers and mild winters) and the plants that evolved to thrive in those conditions,' says Tabar Gifford Master Gardener and representative, High Country Gardens.

'The hallmarks are silvery and grey-green foliage (nature’s way of reflecting heat and conserving moisture), aromatic leaves that release their fragrance in the warmth of the sun, flowers in warm whites, purples, and blues, and a structural quality that looks just as good in winter as it does in the height of summer.'

1. Lavender (Lavandula)

Originating from the Mediterranean region, lavender is unsurprisingly a plant many associate with Mediterranean garden ideas. Attractive, aromatic and with medicinal properties, lavender is also drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and a wonderful pollinator plant to grow. Some species and cultivars are more compact and suitable for smaller spaces too.

'If I had to choose just one plant to define the Mediterranean garden aesthetic, lavender would be it,' says Tabar. 'It’s also beautifully fragrant and offers structural interest year-round even when not in flower. Bees cannot resist it.

'The silvery-grey foliage is architecturally beautiful even out of bloom, and when those purple spires emerge in early summer, the fragrance is incomparable. For small spaces, compact varieties like ‘Hidcote’ (18 inches tall and wide) or ‘Munstead’ are ideal — tidy, well-behaved, and reliably floriferous.

'In containers, lavender thrives with the excellent drainage a pot naturally provides, and a grouping of three in terracotta pots is one of the simplest and most effective ways to create a Mediterranean patio feeling.'

Give lavender full sun and good drainage. Cut plants back by about a third after flowering to maintain a tidy shape and encourage longevity. 'Lavender actually prefers lean soil, so avoid the temptation to over-enrich,' adds Tabar.

This Hidcote Lavender from Plant Addicts will grow in zones 5-8 to around 2-3' tall and wide. To contain its growth, plant it in this pale granite clay D7" x H8" terracotta pot from Ace Hardware.

2. Catmint (Nepeta)

Another pretty plant with aromatic foliage, Catmint (Nepata) originates in North Africa, Southern and Eastern Europe. As such, these plants love full sun, well-drained soil and often feature in gardens in these regions (as well as those with warm, dry climates), delivering the Mediterranean aesthetic.

'Catmint carries that same sun-warmed, slightly wild quality that makes Mediterranean landscapes so appealing,' says Tabar. 'It forms loose, spilling mounds of silver-grey foliage topped with clouds of lavender-blue flowers that bloom from late spring well into summer.

'It's the perfect soft foil for lavender’s upright structure, and one of the most versatile plants in a Mediterranean-style palette.

'For small spaces and containers, the variety ‘Little Trudy®’ stays compact at just 10–12 inches tall and spreads to about 16 inches wide — it's perfect for edging a path, softening the base of a container grouping, or spilling over the edge of a raised bed.'

Nepeta is extremely drought-tolerant once established, deer-resistant, aromatic, and a favorite of bees and butterflies.

'It’s a plant that works hard and asks for very little in return,' says Tabar. 'Shear back by half after the first bloom for fresh growth and a second flush of flowers.'

For a cold hardy catmint, try this dwarf Nepeta from Nature Hill's, which also grows to one foot tall, and thrives in zones 4-10.

3. Hummingbird Mint (Agastache)

If you would prefer to use low-maintenance native plants to create a Mediterranean vibe, Agastache has a varied color palette, which ranges from similar lilac hues to Lavender and Catmint to other warmer tones, such as pink and yellow. However it originates from the American Southwest and Mexico rather than the Mediterranean basin, so will easily thrive in hot, sunny regions and support pollinators.

'Agastache thrives in identical conditions: blazing sun, lean dry soil, excellent drainage, and heat,' says Tabar. 'It's a plant I reach for again and again when designing for hot, dry conditions.

'In a Mediterranean-style garden, it brings vertical structure and vibrant color that the palette genuinely benefits from. Compact varieties like ‘Acapulco Salmon & Pink’, ‘Kudos Coral’, and ‘Pineapple Sunrise’ stay under two feet and bring warm sunset tones of coral, peach, deep orange, that layer beautifully with the blues and purples of lavender and catmint.

'The aromatic foliage has a wonderful anise-mint fragrance, and the flower spikes are irresistible to hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies. It’s also spectacular in containers, where its upright habit and long bloom season (often early summer right through to frost) make it a reliable focal point.'

Ensure your plant has good drainage and cut back in early spring as new growth emerges from the base to keep it flourishing.

This Summerlong Peach Agastache from Plant Addicts is another compact variety that will do well in pots. Plant it in this D10" x H12" terracotta pot from Ace Hardware for Mediterranean style.

4. Salvia

There are so many types of Salvia, you can easily find one to suit your US hardiness zone, a particular color palette or specific style. Although, in colder regions, you may need to grow this plant as an annual, rather than a perennial.

The grey-green foliage is classically Mediterranean and looks beautiful even between bloom cycles.

'No plant genus is more quintessentially Mediterranean than Salvia,' says Tabar. 'Hundreds of species originate from the dry, rocky, sun-drenched hillsides of the Mediterranean basin and surrounding regions, and the genus has been in cultivation for centuries for very good reason.

'For a small-space Mediterranean garden, Salvia Greggii varieties (Autumn Sage) are ideal; compact, floriferous, and reliably drought-tolerant with a long bloom season from late spring through fall. ‘Furman’s Red’, ‘Lipstick’, and ‘Raspberry Wine’ bring rich color in a plant that stays tidy at 18–24 inches.

'For the classic blue-purple spike, Salvia Nemorosa varieties like ‘May Night’ and ‘Caradonna’ pair perfectly with silvery lavender and catmint foliage.'

Aromatic, drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and one of the best pollinator plants available, Salvia thrives in full sun and well-drained soil. A light trim after the first bloom flush encourages a second wave of flowers and keeps the plant looking its best through the rest of the season.

This pretty Marcus Meadow Sage from Plant Addicts is a Salvia Nemorosa with a mature height of 8-12" and spread of 10-12" so will stay contained in a small garden.

5. Mediterranean Spurge (Euphorbia)

Euphorbia is another classic Mediterranean plant species, with evergreen foliage, for year round interest. There are numerous varieties and cultivars to suit different climates and each can be grown in the ground or containers to suit small spaces.

With its gray-green, succulent-like foliage, Euphorbia looks particularly beautiful trailing from aged terracotta pots.

'If you want to create a Mediterranean retreat in a small space in a zone with cool, damp winters, I would recommend Euphorbia × myrsinites,' says Matt Manus, Senior Director of Horticulture, AHS.

'It needs a well-drained site, however, it is quite cold hardy and will reseed in northern gravel gardens as a lovely gray-green groundcover, especially in sharply-draining gravel gardens.

This Euphorbia Myrsinites from Lowe's has a mature height of 6-8", is suitable for zones 5-10 and would add interest to rock gardens.

For shadier sites in warmer climates Matt recommends Euphorbia. characias (Zones 6b–8b), or the colorful cultivar Euphorbia. amygdaloides.

'If you aren't blessed with full sun, some of the many drought-tolerant Euphorbia species, can handle shade and are always welcome when one still wants a Mediterranean feel in the garden,' he says.

'Look for cultivars such as 'Ruby Glow', with dark red foliage and lime-green blooms, or 'Miner's Merlot', with even darker wine-tinted foliage set off by acid-green, long-lasting flowers.'

Whichever Euphorbia you choose, grow it in this gorgeous tall, pale gray terracotta pot from Lowe's to create an eye-catching contrast and enliven a small space.

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6. Giant Fennel (Ferula Communis)

Despite the name, Giant Fennel (Ferula communis), is suited to a small garden, as it grows tall rather than wide. Like its edible cousin, this Mediterranean plant bears beautiful umbels with tiny yellow flowers and would make a bold statement in a small space.

'Giant Fennel (Ferula communis) is kind of having a moment right now and not many know about it,' explains Matt. 'Many gardeners are finding success in Zones 5–8 with this giant fennel species, which is essentially a textural gem, with ferny foliage for three to five years before sending up an 8-foot flowering stalk.

'Another giant fennel, Ferula tingitana, is a shorter-lived species that can be a real showstopper and often reseeds freely. This is not a plant you'll find at most garden centers, so it also makes a welcome seed gift for adventurous gardening friends,' adds Matt.

Plants may die after blooming, so save seed to replant in future years.

If you grow your Ferula in a container, it will need a sturdy base like this beautiful Safavieh large planter pot from Lowe's.

7. Olive Tree (Olea europaea)

No Mediterranean garden is complete without an Olive tree, not even a small one. Olive trees grown in pots will remain compact in size, and while they may not produce as much fruit, as those grown in the ground, will provide shade, vertical interest and that all-important Mediterranean aesthetic.

'For those in a hotter, drier climate (Zones 7–10), I would recommend any number of plants for a small garden or sunny courtyard in this style,' says Matt.

'Woody Mediterranean standbys such as olive trees (Olea europaea) are always a great choice, and look good in pots, grouped alongside rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus), thyme (Thymus spp.), lavender (Lavandula spp.) and many Salvia species, which can all be grown in containers.'

This Pendolino Olive Tree from Fast-Growing Trees is a slow-growing variety, that's easy to maintain and suitable as a patio plant in zones 3-11. When container-planted and pruned, it will stay small in stature.

Whatever the size of your space, whether a small garden or compact city courtyard, select one or more of the plant choices above and display them with pots of herbs that originate from the region, to bring your Mediterranean retreat to life.

'There’s something deeply satisfying about a Mediterranean garden,' says Tabar. 'The way aromatic plants, silvery foliage, and sun-baked textures combine to create a sense of place that feels both effortless and intentional.

'Mediterranean-climate plants are some of the most garden-worthy plants in the world, and you don’t need a sprawling estate to make them feel right at home.'

July is a significant month for growing okra. The heat-loving crop, also known as ladies’ fingers, is highly productive in summer, and a few crucial tasks this month will bring you a bumper harvest of pods to pick.

Regular harvesting is the most important job for July if you are growing okra in your vegetable garden. Along with picking, take time to water, feed, support, and keep plants pest-free to ensure the harvests keep coming. If you garden in the hottest climates, though, there is an extra task you can do that will reward you with extra crops.

Okra does need regular attention this month, and keeping on top of these tasks is important for the best yield throughout the summer and onwards. Here’s what to do with okra in July to pick the finest pods and to have healthy plants that will keep on producing new ones to pick in the future.

1. Harvest Pods Every Few Days

July is a peak time for harvesting okra pods, and you want to get them at their prime. Good timing is imperative, as young pods are tender and a delicacy, while older ones are tough and woody.

Regular harvesting is an important part of what to do with okra in July. It is advisable to pick them little and often every few days rather than opting for more infrequent, larger harvests.

The perfect pods are 2-3 inches long. Picking them often encourages the plant to keep producing new ones, whereas leaving mature pods slows down the development.

Use small pruners (like these Fiskars pruning snips at Walmart) or a sharp knife to harvest okra pods. Don’t pull the pods, as okra plants have very shallow roots, and you risk damaging the entire plant.

It is also advisable to wear gloves and long sleeves (you can get gardening sleeves at Amazon to stay protected) when working with okra plants. The stems, leaves, and pods have fine hairs that can irritate the skin.

2. Keep the Soil Moist

Okra is a fairly drought-tolerant vegetable once established in its planting spot, but this doesn’t mean it doesn’t need to be kept hydrated during July.

When okra is flowering and fruiting, it is a key time to keep the soil consistently moist to guarantee the best harvests. For the best yield, give okra at least one inch of water per week, though this amount can increase in hotter climates.

Keep a close eye on when to water plants, checking at least once a day during the summer months. Check the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, and water plants deeply to soak the root zone.

Always water the soil around the plants, rather than soaking them from above. Watering the foliage increases the risk of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew. A soaker hose (such as this 25 ft flat soaker hose, available at Amazon) or drip irrigation is an efficient way to direct water into the soil and to the roots of the plants.

3. Feed Okra Plants in Pots

Okra plants benefit from balanced fertilizer at the time of planting. Those growing in the ground don’t tend to need extra feeding during the season, unless they show signs of struggling, such as slow growth or yellowing foliage. In this case, use a balanced liquid fertilizer, like this all-purpose plant food from Amazon.

If you are growing okra in pots in a vegetable container garden, these plants will need regular feeding throughout July and the rest of summer. The best fertilizers for these plants are higher in potassium, such as this Farmer’s Secret fruit and bloom booster fertilizer, also at Amazon. Apply this fertilizer every two or three weeks once the okra starts flowering.

The big fertilizing mistake to avoid is giving okra plants too much nitrogen this month. Using high-nitrogen feeds will result in a mass of foliage and leafy growth, but few flowers or pods.

4. Support Plants if Needed

Okra can reach four to six feet tall, depending on the variety, so they ideally need to be staked, especially in windy gardens. The plants are often self-supporting, thanks to their woody stems, but taller varieties do need staking to keep them secure during the season, especially when they are top-heavy.

The easiest type of plant support for okra is a sturdy bamboo cane (like these eight-foot bamboo plant stakes at Home Depot) or landscape stake.

A single support is required per plant, as they are not the types of plants that will climb a vegetable garden trellis. Alternatively, you can construct a tall tomato cage around plants to contain and stop them from falling over when laden with pods.

Use thin plant ties when attaching the okra stem to the support, such as twine, cloth, or Velcro straps, and don’t tie it too tightly.

5. Check for Pests

July is a time when okra can be under attack from many different summer garden pests, whether the crop is growing indoors or outdoors. Aphids, spider mites, flea beetles, stink bugs, and caterpillars are all known to trouble okra and can feed on leaves, stems, and pods.

Look out for signs of pest issues and take prompt action to stop populations from increasing quickly. It is recommended to pay particular close attention to the underside of foliage.

Smaller pests can be knocked off the plant with a strong blast of water from a garden hose, and insecticidal soap can combat populations (you can get ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart, but use it with care as it can also kill beneficial insects). Larger pests can be manually picked off by hand and placed into a container filled with soapy water.

To reduce pest populations, try companion planting okra with aromatic herbs like chives, dill, and chamomile to repel insects or beneficial flowers such as marigolds or nasturtiums, which both deter pests from okra and attract natural predators.

6. Cut Okra Plants Back

In the hottest US hardiness zones, okra plants tend to slow down and stop producing flowers and pods. This can happen in late July or early August in the warmest southern climates, and growers often prune plants as a result.

It may sound brutal, but cutting okra plants back to around one or two feet from the ground in midsummer encourages the plants to produce a smaller, second crop of pods. If you do this technique, fertilize the plants with a balanced feed after pruning, and keep on top of watering to encourage healthy new growth.

A granular, balanced feed, such as this organic, all-purpose plant food from Burpee, is the best product. It offers plants all the essential nutrients they need to regrow and provide a second round of pods from late summer into fall.

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If you enjoy collecting seeds to regrow your own vegetables next year, you can do this with okra. However, wait until later in the season to start. To harvest okra seeds, leave some pods to develop later in the fall. If you leave them in the summer, the plant will stop producing new ones to harvest.

So wait until the picking is winding down for the season; only then leave some pods to grow large, brown, and brittle. You can snip these from the plants and collect the seeds to sow again.

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Plucking homegrown fruit from your backyard is one of the summer joys many of us gardeners look forward to. By the time July comes around, our peach trees are producing delicious, juicy fruits, so they require a bit of attention.

If you're growing a peach tree in your garden, then you'll need to do some light pruning, keep on top of watering during hot spells, and check the fruit to see if it's ready to harvest this month, as well as remove any diseased fruit.

Neglecting these tasks now could hinder your harvest and the overall health of your tree. So, grab your harvest basket (I love the look of this wooden garden hod from Burpee) and head out to the yard. Here's what to do with a peach tree in July.

1. Prune Lightly

Knowing when to prune a peach tree is very important. Do it at the wrong time and you could remove flower buds, meaning no fruit.

Likewise, heavy pruning in summer can stress your tree and lead to its decline. That's why arborist Levi Williams advises only doing some light maintenance in July.

'As a rule of thumb, diseased or dead branches can be removed at any time and that includes July. Do not heavily prune trees during the summer months,' he says.

You should focus on removing the damaged branches and also thinning out any overcrowded, crossing branches. This will improve airflow and reduce the likelihood of disease, including peach leaf curl which distorts the leaves from excess moisture and causes them to drop off.

These Fiskars bypass loppers from Amazon can help you reach higher up your peach tree, and they'll make clean cuts.

2. Water Deeply

Watering is key when it comes to growing any fruit tree, but it's even more important to keep on top of during the hot summer months.

Letting a peach tree dry out in July can result in heat stress, stunting growth, dropping fruit and flowers, and even death in prolonged drought.

'Make sure to water trees heavily 1-2 inches of water per week,' Levi advises.

At the same time, you want to avoid excessive moisture when your peach tree is fruiting. This can cause the fruit to split and rot before you get the chance to harvest.

If in doubt, you can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check how wet your peach tree's soil is.

And if you're growing a peach tree in a pot (like this 'Contender' peach tree from Plant Addicts), remember it will dry out much more quickly than those planted in the ground.

3. Check the Fruit

July to September is the typical harvest time for peaches, which means it's time to check your fruit for ripeness.

Peaches are ready to pick when there is no trace of green on the fruit and it has a creamy yellow or white hue, starting to blush. You can leave peaches attached until they fully blush for the sweetest taste, but because they're climacteric, they will carry on ripening off the branch.

They should also give a little when gently squeezed. Hard fruit is not yet ready to pick. Likewise, the peaches should come away from the stems with a gentle twist, and have a sweet aroma.

'Don't forget to also remove any fallen or rotten fruit to avoid pests,' Levi advises.

'And if a branch is full of fruit and causing them to bend, it is recommended to provide support for branches with props,' he adds.

You can use these fruit tree crutches from Amazon or create your own natural plant support by repurposing tree branches.

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FAQs

Do You Fertilize Peach Trees While They're Fruiting?

No, there isn't a need to fertilize peach trees while they're fruiting, unless it is nutrient deficient (which can be spotted by pale leaves and poor shoot growth). Instead, you should fertilize your peach tree in early spring to give it a boost of nutrients ahead of fruit production.

If you're struggling to get your peach tree to fruit, there are a few things you can do. This includes providing full sun exposure by pruning branches.

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As the temperatures soar in the summer, cool-season crops are always likely to bolt. It is a frustrating yet natural process, and one that gardeners consistently battle with year after year.

Vegetables, including lettuce, spinach, arugula, radishes, and Asian greens, bolt and start to flower when temperatures pass 70°F. However, there are ways to prevent bolting vegetables, such as proper watering, mulching, providing shade to your crops, and planting them at the right time.

I have seen many crops bolt over my years growing vegetables. While I have lost many potential harvests, I have also picked up a few tips to reduce the chances of bolting vegetables blotting your kitchen garden. Whatever the size of your vegetable garden, these five factors can make a difference each season.

1. Be Consistent With Watering

Regular, consistent watering can reduce stress on your crops and lessen the chances of you looking at rows and rows of bolting vegetables you need to remove from the garden.

True, temperatures will affect when a vegetable bolts. But the likelihood of it happening increases when a crop is under stress from a lack of moisture. Vegetables suffering from drought stress will also start to bolt at lower temperatures.

To avoid this happening, check your plants often (a moisture meter can make it obvious when it is time to water – you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) and keep them well hydrated. Infrequent deep watering is more beneficial than little-and-often watering, and offers the best way to keep soil moist in the summer.

So your watering makes the most impact; water the vegetable garden in the morning on hot days. This helps prevent the soil from drying out and gives crops time to take up moisture before the temperatures rise.

2. Mulch to Regulate Temperature and Moisture

Heat and moisture are two factors that cause bolting of vegetables. An efficient way to combat both is by mulching the vegetable garden.

Mulching around crops regulates soil temperature. The thick barrier keeps the rays at bay, so the soil around the roots stays cool rather than getting baking hot. The layer also locks moisture in the ground, meaning less water is lost to evaporation, and your plants can take advantage.

Use organic products for this. The best organic mulch for a vegetable garden includes compost, straw, bark (you can get bags of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s), or shredded leaves. Spread it in a nice, thick 2-3 inch layer around your vegetables.

3. Give Crops Some Shade

High temperatures usually kick-start cool-season vegetables into survival mode, where they bolt in an attempt to flower and produce seed before their time is nigh. Giving crops some shade from the sun reduces the temperature by several degrees and can be the difference between bolting and non-bolting vegetables.

Gardeners can use shade cloth to cover plants. It is ideal to opt for a shade cloth that keeps out 50% of the light, such as this breathable shade cloth at Amazon.

You need to install the cloth over some hoops (like these fiberglass hoops at Walmart) to keep it raised off the crops. As the cloth heats up, if it is touching the vegetables, it can burn them.

An alternative way of providing more natural shade is through companion planting. You can plant cool-season, heat-sensitive crops under the partial shade of taller vegetables, including pole beans, tomatoes, or corn.

4. Pick Bolt-Resistant Varieties

One efficient way to avoid the issue of bolting vegetables is to be savvy when shopping for seeds. There are bolt-resistant varieties of many vegetables to plant, including spinach, lettuces, and Asian greens.

In truth, bolt-resistant varieties aren’t a guarantee. They have been bred using modern techniques to be more resilient to temperatures or inconsistent watering, but they can still bolt under extreme conditions.

Adding some bolt-resistant or heat-tolerant varieties of cool-season crops to your seed sowing schedule can help alleviate potential worries about vegetables bolting.

For example, you can get bolt-resistant Seaside spinach seeds at Burpee and bolt-resistant Jericho lettuce seeds at True Leaf Market to try out if you regularly suffer from these crops bolting each season.

5. Time Your Planting Right

Often, gardeners see their crops bolt because they have been planted a bit outside of the ideal.

We have all sown cool-season crops a bit too late in spring, which leads them to bolt once the summer temperatures arrive. Even fast-growing vegetables can lack the time to go from sowing to cropping if sown in late spring or early summer.

Ensure you give them enough time to mature. Work out the days to maturity – which you can often find on seed packets or online – and sow them at the appropriate time. If you miss the spring sowing, you can often sow again in late summer for harvests in the fall.

To avoid complete losses, radishes, lettuce, spinach, and arugula can be planted successively.

Starting early in spring (once the ground is warm enough, or even sowing seeds indoors) and sowing these every few weeks will give you different ages of crop in the kitchen garden. If they do bolt in the summer, you should have already had some harvests, and you don’t lose an entire crop.

Sometimes, bolting happens, and you have to deal with it. However, it doesn’t always mean you need to throw the crop away.

With some crops, like lettuce and spinach, the larger leaves can turn bitter, yet the smaller ones remain flavorful – it is not a total loss.

When it comes to bolting onions, though, you can lift the bulb and use it straight away in the kitchen. The bulbs may be smaller than ideal, but you can still harvest the onions and eat them.

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I always love hosting spontaneous gatherings with friends and family when unexpected good weather comes around, but it does mean frantically running round to pull everything together. That's why I rely on my patio plants to do some heavy lifting and ensure my outdoor seating is always ready for action.

By choosing table container plants to elevate garden furniture, you can be assured that the seating is already taken care of. I'm talking about fragrant, low-effort, showy plants that impress all summer long while needing minimal attention.

From aromatic herbs (Walmart offer a herb variety pack to create a herb planter), to vibrant flowers that bring elegance to the table, there are some particular table container plants that bring outdoor living spaces together with little fuss. Here, with insights from a garden designer, I talk through five easy options for effortless summer hosting.

1. Chocolate Mint

Aromatic herbs are always a good idea to have on a dining table or even a coffee table. One of the more unusual mint varieties is chocolate mint which has a distinct chocolatey scent and peppermint flavor.

Not only is having it in easy reach make it an excellent and surprising sweet treat for your guests, but its sweet scent will be released when hands brush past it.

Like growing other types of mint, it's actually best to keep chocolate mint in a pot. It's a vigorous grower, so keeping it contained stops aggressive spreading.

Just take care to grow it in a pot with a drainage hole and saucer, as overly wet conditions can oversaturate and rot roots. This distressed terracotta planter with a saucer from Wayfair has rustic charm.

Take advantage of chocolate mint's unusual flavor by regularly harvesting the mint leaves. This will encourage new, bushy growth and keep it tidy in its pot.

Find a chocolate mint plant on Amazon.

2. Calamondin Orange

I love giving my patio a Mediterranean-feel, so it feels like a bit of a vacation every summer evening. One of the best plants to style for this is a citrus trees.

More specifically, the calamondin orange tree (which you can find at Fast Growing Trees) is a super easy addition. Simply placing it on your outdoor dining table can make the perfect summer tabletop garden, especially when laden with mini oranges from late summer.

It's surprisingly low-maintenance to grow citrus trees in pots, with the main task being fertilizing through spring and summer (this citrus feed from Amazon is a good option).

Oranges are also self-pollinating, so you can get a good crop with just one plant.

Pairing it with brightly colored pots can bring the joyful look together, like this blue stripe scalloped pots from Wayfair.

3. Euphorbia 'Diamond Snow'

If you love tiny flowers, then there's no better choice for a tabletop container than 'Diamond Snow' euphorbia.

'When designing an elegant, low-maintenance garden, I naturally gravitate toward a palette of blue, purple, and white, and 'Diamond Snow' is hard to beat,' says garden designer Kate Schneider.

'This heat and drought-tolerant annual forms a tidy 12–18-inch mound and performs best in full sun, though it can tolerate partial shade. Its delicate white flowers bloom continuously throughout the season without the need for deadheading, making it a carefree addition,' she explains.

It has a fairy garden-feel with its small bracts and fine-textured foliage.

You can find 'Diamond Snow' euphorbia on Amazon.

4. Echeveria

One of my favorite things about summer is that you can move houseplants outdoors, and for those of us living in milder climes this means you can style heat-loving succulents outdoors.

To bring some texture to your outdoor furniture, you can create a succulent bowl with lots of different rosette echeverias.

By mixing and matching different varieties (see this pack of 12 echeverias from Walmart), you can create a chocolate box of succulents that is not only fun to look at but also run your hands over and feel.

Even better, succulents are incredibly low-maintenance. You can let them dry out entirely before watering again, and they won't need fertilizing as they thrive in poorer soil conditions.

I love the look of this raised succulent planter on a stand, perfect for a table centerpiece, or even styling at a lower level next to a chair leg.

5. Texas Lantana

Another bright bloom to make your outdoor living area more vibrant is Texas lantana.

'It produces cheerful blooms in shades of yellow, orange, pink, and red. My kids insist it smells like tropical fruit punch, and I have to agree,' Kate says.

'Native to Texas as its name implies, this plant thrives in intense summer heat and blooms continuously throughout the season,' she notes.

To grow lantana in pots successfully, make sure to provide well-draining soil and you place it somewhere with lots of direct sun.

Deadheading your lantana will also extend its display all the way to fall. Just take care to use sharp and clean gardening snips, like these Fiskars ones from Amazon.

This 'Havana Sunset' lantana on Amazon has a dreamy mix of pink, orange, and yellow colors.

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Our guide to summer table centerpiece ideas has more inspiration for bringing your outdoor living area to life. And if you want to use cut flowers to decorate for gatherings, check out our Petals & Roots allium floral design tutorial for an elegant arrangement.

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Climbing plants add so much value to the garden, maximizing vertical space and adding dimension to patio planting. But, having a simple trellis to support your climbing blooms can look a little flat, which is why I've started exploring more unusual ways to grow climbers.

From training evergreen climbers into a roof for your pergola, to repurposing this Wayfair rustic ladder as a plant support, there are so many clever design tricks to turn climbers into living botanical spectacles for the yard. Really, you can use nearly anything as a structure to train climbers, so long as their built for the weight of plants and you have the right growing environment in place to support healthy growth.

So if you're bored of standard vertical garden ideas, keep reading. Here, I talk through five of our favorite unusual ways to grow climbers to instantly make your garden more interesting.

1. Train Climbers Up a Tree

If you're looking for a unique take on a natural support for climbing plants, why not train your vines up a tree?

This is the perfect addition to romantic cottage garden planting, especially if you choose a rambling rose (like the beautiful pink 'Super Dorothy' rose from Amazon) to climb a large tree.

It naturally integrates your planting, especially as the plants mature and increasingly coexist with each other.

To make this a success, you need to choose the right climber. Avoid any particularly vigorous plants that could overwhelm the host tree and outcompete it for nutrients.

You should also plant the climber at a sufficient distance to the tree, ideally around 3ft away. This ensures the tree's root system is protected and the climber is accessing its own nutrients and water.

You'll also want to select climbing plants for shade, as they'll be growing beneath a tree canopy. 'Rebecca' clematis (available at Plant Addicts) is also a good choice for this.

When tying in the climber, use soft jute twine (like this from Amazon). This looks subtle in color and won't cut into the tree or the plant.

2. Cover a Wall

While we often think of living walls being constructed of hanging wall pocket planters (like this from Amazon), you can also get the look with climbers alone.

More specifically, you can use self-clinging climbers to grow a little unruly and cover a wall.

The best approach is by using multiple plants for more coverage, planting 3-10ft apart, depending on how much big the space is.

You can use wire or put up a wall trellises (like this wall trellis panel from Wayfair) to help train them and support their weight. It's also wise to avoid vigorous climbers on weaker walls.

Just like training and tying in wisteria shoots, you should carefully train new shoots horizontally, rather than letting them grow upwards.

You can use the likes of star jasmine (available at Plant Addicts) and wisteria (like 'Blue Moon' wisteria from Plant Addicts) for a floral display, or use something like English ivy for evergreen coverage.

Take care to prune these wall climbers annually prevent them invading windows and gutters.

3. Create a Living Roof

Just like a living wall, you can create an impactful living roof above your outdoor seating. It provides some privacy and garden shade, while creating an immersive feel as you sit beneath.

For this, you'll need a pergola to form a support structure. Using wire rope (available on Amazon), you can train climbers up each post and across the top, like in the image above.

If your pergola is in a sunny spot, one of the best plants to use is a grape vine (see the collection at Nature Hills), adding an edible element to this spectacle.

Wisteria is also a popular choice for something like this, with the iconic racemes cascading downwards and even making your patio smell nice with its heady fragrance.

4. Bring a Sculpture to Life

One of the best ways to turn climbers into botanical art is by literally combining them with yard art.

You can use garden sculptures as frames for your climbers, allowing the vines to dress them and turn a stationary art piece into a dynamic display that changes with the seasons.

Self-clinging climbers, like ivy, are best for this look as they'll naturally climb and support themselves.

In many ways, this exudes formal-style garden or regency-style garden. It can also make garden features feel a bit more lived-in, as though the vines have found their way up the sculptures over may years.

Just remember to consider the material of your sculptures very carefully. You don't want to put any at risk of damage. Stone and metal tend to be reliable foundations, able to take the weight of vines, but you should always do research around your specific sculpture.

You can explore the wide range of fascinating garden sculptures at Wayfair to find the right fir for your garden.

This spectacle will also need regular pruning to maintain the desired look, otherwise you risk the climbers completely taking over the sculpture to the point that you can't see it. Use these lightweight Fiskars loppers from Amazon for quick maintenance.

5. Let Them Cascade

Many of the best climbers can also be grown as trailers, and can be used to create a cascading display, rather than an growing upright.

Without supports to climb, some climbers naturally produce long, arching stems that spill over walls and containers. This includes climbing roses, creeping fig (which you can purchase in a pack of six from Amazon), and potato vine.

A small support at the base can help young plants establish, but once the stems reach the edge of the container or wall, simply let gravity turn them into a waterfall of foliage and blooms.

Keep on top of pruning to maintain the desired length of your trailers (these Felco F2 pruning shears from Amazon are good to have to hand). Light trimming also encourages branching, helping to create a fuller, denser display.

What to Shop

There really is a climber for every garden, whether you're looking for easy climbing plants that thrive of neglect or easy climbing plants for pots to grow on a small patio. There are also plenty of invasive climbers to never grow that are good to be aware of.

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Depending on where you live, July is often considered the height of summer. With almost everything already planted out for this year’s season, you may be wondering if there is any point in sowing any flowers in July?

Among the deadheading, fertilizing, weeding, and watering, if you can find time for some sowing, you could be looking forward to some stunning blooms next season.

Having grown ornamentals and cut flowers both commercially on a flower farm and at home in my gardens over the years, here are seven of the easiest flowers to sow in July for your beds and borders, or to cut and enjoy in a vase.

Foxgloves

A stalwart of wild and cottage gardens, foxgloves (Digitalis) are adored for their tall flowering spires. Generally flowering from late spring to early summer, foxglove varieties are available as biennials, perennials, and shrubs.

An easy-to-grow biennial, Digitalis purpurea is a prolific self-seeder and can often leave you with more plants for the following year than you need. However, if you would like to grow them for the first time, July is the perfect time to sow them so you can enjoy them the following year.

To sow, simply scatter thinly onto moist seed compost, but do not cover as they require light to germinate. You can purchase mixed-color foxglove seeds from Amazon. However, being toxic, gloves must be worn when handling all foxglove parts, including the seeds.

Coneflowers

Also known as Echinacea, coneflowers are a stunning addition to your container or borders.

A native plant, coneflowers adore full sun and are a magnet for bees and butterflies. They are available in an array of colors and sizes, and there is a wealth of coneflower varieties to choose from.

Ideal for sowing at this time of year, you can sow coneflower seeds either in a seed tray or in a small pot. Keeping the soil moist, pot on the young plants as they mature and plant out in the fall or the following spring.

With its striking pale petals, you can purchase Echinacea ‘Wild Swan’ from True Leaf Market.

Columbine

Another easy-to-grow cottage garden favorite is columbine, or Aquilegia as it is botanically known. An elegant and stunning perennial with dainty-looking flowers, it is available in calming pastels to vibrant hues.

Considered cold-hardy in zone 3 and above, Columbine is tough and a plant I have consistently grown over the years. Nevertheless, it is also a poisonous plant for which care must be taken.

A natural self-seeder, you can sow Aquilegia seeds at various times throughout the year, including July. To sow outdoors, prepare an area by weeding and raking to a fine tilth, then scatter the seed thinly and water in. Keep the soil moist and the seeds should germinate within 3 weeks.

Producing purple and white delicate flowers Aquilegia vulgaris 'Winky Purple & White' is available to purchase from Nature Hills.

Honesty

Prized for its vivid-purple or classical white flowers and stunning seed pods that stand over the winter, honesty (Lunaria) is an ideal border biennial plant. Growing to around 2-3 feet tall, it is perfect for the middle of a bed and self-seeds when given the chance.

Thriving in both full sun and partial shade, it prefers a fertile and moist, yet free-draining soil.

To sow honesty in July, prepare a seedbed and sow the seeds, covering with a light dusting of soil. Keeping the soil moist, the seeds should germinate within 1-2 weeks and form young plants that will bloom the following year.

Cold hardy in USDA zones 7 and above, you can purchase honesty seeds from True Leaf Market.

Sweet Rocket

Perfectly suited to a backyard or a cut-flower patch, Sweet Rocket (Hesperis matronalis) is a scented biennial, or short-lived perennial, that produces sweet-smelling flowers in its second year.

Available with purple or white flowers that are irresistible to pollinators, it grows to around 2-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide. To grow from seed, sow indoors in modules or direct outdoors from late spring through to July. If started undercover, plant out early in the fall to establish before winter sets in.

Suitable for growing in zones 3-9, you can purchase Dame’s Rocket Seeds from Amazon.

Delphinium

Grown for their tall flowering spikes that add height and impact to a border, delphiniums are ideal for cottage gardens. Flowering in early summer, delphinium varieties are commonly available in blue and purple, or in paler pastel hues such as pink and white.

Commonly sown undercover in the spring, you can also sow delphinium seed outdoors this month. To sow in July, sow the seeds where they are to grow and cover them thinly with a layer of soil. Keep the soil moist until germination, which generally takes 2-3 weeks.

Preferring full sun to partial shade, delphiniums grow best in a fertile, well-drained soil. However, to protect their delicate blooms from any harsh winds, a sheltered site is recommended.

As it is a highly toxic plant, gloves must be worn when handling any part of the plant, and care must be taken if children or pets are present.

Available in an array of colors, you can purchase Delphinium ‘Magic Fountain Series’ seeds from True Leaf Market.

Wallflowers

Generally, a biennial plant, wallflowers (Erysimum) can also be perennial, though short-lived.

Considered hardy in USDA zones 4-9, wallflowers come in a range of vivid shades from red and orange to yellow and purple and are perfect for a garden border and equally at home in a container.

Sown from spring until the summer, you can sow wallflowers in July either in a greenhouse or where they are to grow outside. However, germination is most successful at temperatures below 70°F, so a cooler spot is preferable.

If sowing outside, sow sparingly in rows spaced 12-18 inches apart and water in gently to avoid dispersing the seed. With the soil kept moist but not overly wet, seedlings should appear in 10-14 days. As it is a poisonous plant, gloves should be worn when handling any plant material, and caution should be exercised if children or pets are present.

For mixed colors, English Aegean Wallflower Seeds are available to purchase from Walmart.

What to Shop

Along with flowers, there are also vegetables you can sow now to ensure a bounty of produce to pick later this summer or in the fall. From French beans to Florence fennel, discover which vegetables our expert recommends planting in July.

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In the US fire zone landscaping shows a growing emphasis on distance-based planting zones as the way to go. This means following the 0–5–30 planting rule, which is fast becoming design shorthand to help you get ahead of a wildfire before it gets to you. And while it might seem counter-intuitive you may be surprised to find out that removing as much vegetation as possible is not necessarily the best course of action.

The successful creation of a fire-resilient property largely depends on how you manage the space around your home. But how do you stay safe yet still achieve a certain landscaping aesthetic that looks elevated and considered? The trick is to create a cohesive outdoor space where planting, materials, and layout work harmoniously together with the goal of firescaping your property first and foremost, yet with the resulting design still feeling balanced, natural and connected to the landscape.

It is possible to have beautiful landscaping around your home that includes a managed planting zone that fulfils all the criteria for creating a defensive space. First we spoke to leading wildfire mitigation experts to get the latest take on fire zone landscaping and how to make it work for you, then we explain the planting rule everyone's talking about.

The 0-5-30 Planting Rule: Fire-Smart Landscaping

Fire-smart landscaping goes beyond looks. It’s about function. In wildfire-prone areas, the right plants and thoughtful design can slow fire spread, reduce radiant heat, and block embers from reaching your home.

Defensible space can be organized into three main zones where the density of vegetation is closely controlled. The planting formula is pretty straightforward. In the zones closer to your property, plant density should be low; in the zones further away the acceptable plant density increases.

Here's a little more information on how exactly the 0-5-30 planting rule works (thanks to Jim Sprouse for the guidelines below).

Zone 0
0-5 feet around your home or to property line
Choose non-wood, low-growing herbaceous vegetation such as succulents or other fire-resistant plants. Prune any touching or over-hanging branches to a distance of at least 10 feet from the roof. Rake and remove flammable vegetation, such as leaves and needles or wood mulch, from underneath your deck and away from your home.

Zone 1
5-30 feet around your home or to property line
Create vegetation groups or islands to break up continuous fuels around your home. Remove ladder fuels to create a separation between low-level vegetation and tree canopies to keep fire from climbing into trees. Remove leaf and needle debris from the yard. Keep lawns, native grasses, and wildflowers less than four inches in height.

Zone 2
30-100 feet around your home or to property line
Create and maintain a minimum of 10 feet between the tops of trees. Safely remove ladder fuels up to a height of 10 feet, while retaining at least 75 percent of the foliage, to create separation between the ground and tree branches. This keeps fire from climbing into the tree canopies. Create space between shrubs and trees to eliminate a continuous fuel bed at the ground level. Remove dead trees, shrubs, and all other dead or dry vegetation.

The Landscaper's POV: Take Your Cue From Regional Character

'In fire-prone areas, thoughtful design incorporates fuel breaks, such as pathways, gravel, and hardscape interruptions, so that beauty and fire safety work together rather than against each other,' says landscape architect and design director Kevin Lenhart.

Resilient native planting is always a good option. Ideally your landscape will include a diverse mix of native trees, shrubs, grasses and flowers that bloom over a long time period to attract pollinators.

Choose heat and fire spark resistant plants wherever possible, such as white sage available from Walmart, and snow-in-summer, also available from Walmart.

'The best plant palettes take their cues from local wild lands, including meadows, chaparral, woodland edges, and the high desert of each region, then do something new with those "ingredients",' says Kevin. "In the arid Southwest, for example, this tends to result in an open and textural look. Regional character is the starting point, not a constraint.'

Choosing a high-quality stone color drawn from the regional palette can root a design in its local landscape more effectively than almost any other material decision, says Kevin. It gives your space a sense of belonging to its place, its ecology, and its climate.

The Fire Mitigation Expert's POV: Establish A Defensible Space

'Getting ready for wildfire starts with creating a defensible space and installing a wildfire defense system (WDS),' says wildfire mitigation specialist Jim Sprouse. 'Defensible space means creating and maintaining a buffer between buildings and the plants, brush, trees and other combustible items in the vicinity.

This buffer helps to keep wildfire away from your home by reducing the fire’s intensity and slowing or halting the spread.'

Creating an area of defensible space is critical for increasing the resistance of your property to wildfire in addition to safeguarding the lives of firefighters as they protect your home.

Implementing fire zone landscaping practices where plants and hardscape are selected and maintained so that they do not transmit fire is key. Not adhering to the guidance on the zones within this defensible space is one of the firescaping mistakes to avoid at all costs.

There is a need for more intense reduction of wildfire fuels within the 100-foot perimeter of a home, advises Jim. 'Start at the house and work your way out 100 feet or to your property line, whichever is closer. Many local government agencies have ordinances for defensible space. These will often be more stringent than the state of California’s minimum requirement.'

Check with your local fire department or fire protection district for additional information.

The Plant Ecologist's POV: Plant Placement Is Everything

'How you manage the space around your home can have a tremendous influence on the behavior of embers, as well as potential sources of radiant heat or direct flame exposure,' according to plant ecologists Adrienne Edwards and Rachel Schleiger, authors of Firescaping Your Home: A Manual for Readiness in Wildfire Country, available on Amazon.

'A major misconception about defensible space is that all vegetation (dead or alive) surrounding your home increases fire risk, so you must remove as much vegetation as possible. Unfortunately, fire risk is not that simple.'

Structures can burn because of too much surrounding vegetation, too little surrounding vegetation, or completely independently of vegetation, according to the plant ecologists. 'Embers cause the majority of exterior-ignited structure fires and require no contribution from adjacent vegetation at all. Radiant heat and direct flame contact are of greater concern when too much vegetation is immediately adjacent to structures.'

Keep Goldilocks in mind when planning defensible space for your property: aim for a “just right” number and placement of plants, not too many or too few. 'Live, healthy green vegetation can capture, block, and/or slow windborne embers from reaching structures. Considered placement of plants can decrease and change wind speeds around structures, and potentially shield structures from embers for some time.'

What to Shop For a More Fire-Safe Yard

These fire zone landscaping suggestions will go a long way towards helping you protect your home. It's also a good idea to find out how to design a drought-tolerant yard as well as familiarizing yourself with drought-tolerant landscaping ideas and landscaping with gravel ideas to enable you to take a 360 approach.

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For glorious, show-stopping displays of summer flowers, savvy gardeners always change up their fertilizing game once plants start forming buds or displaying those first blooms. To follow suit and get the best show, a perfect summer flower fertilizer will be rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Those two essential plant nutrients encourage strong flowering or fruiting, making them perfect for early summer for any perennial or annual flowers, or fruiting crops like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. On the contrary, it would be a mistake to feed these plants too much nitrogen.

Gardeners need to pick their summer flower fertilizer wisely. A product such as a bloom booster or tomato feed will be perfect, while a nitrogen-rich product will give more foliage and fewer flowers. That is not what you want in your summer flower beds, so don’t make this fertilizing mistake.

To help you find the right summer flower fertilizer for a dazzling display of flowers or a bountiful harvest of fruit, I drew on what I used while working as a professional horticulturist in public and private gardens and spoke with plant experts.

The Ideal Summer Flower Fertilizer for Flowers and Fruits

A key part of picking the right summer flower fertilizer is understanding what the different nutrients in a typical fertilizer do for plants.

After plants have worked hard to establish strong foliage earlier in the season, the focus needs to shift to developing strong roots (to cope with summer heat) and producing flowers or fruit. These two ambitions become more important in early summer than producing lots of leaves for plants grown predominantly for flowers and fruits, and targeted nutrients help fulfill these.

Tyler Potts from Tractor Supply Company claims that annual flowers, flowering perennials, flowering shrubs (including roses and hydrangeas), and fruiting crops (like tomatoes and peppers) are all plants whose nutrient needs change. He adds: ‘They need less nitrogen in summer and more phosphorus and potassium once flowering or fruiting begins’.

What is it about these two nutrients that makes them so vital in the summer to such a large number of plants? Lotte Berendsen, an expert from the plant care app PlantIn, explains why feeds with phosphorus and potassium are recommended at this time.

‘Both nutrients are crucial parts in the production of flowers,’ says Lotte. ‘Phosphorus aids in the transfer of energy throughout the plant, while potassium regulates water transport.

‘When shopping for fertilizers, look for the NPK ratio, which stands for the amount of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus in the feed. For flowering and fruiting plants, a fertilizer with an NPK ratio where the first letter (N) is the lowest is ideal.’

The best types of summer flower fertilizer, with the nutrient levels and plant fertilizer numbers outlined above, are ‘bloom booster’ products or feeds tailored for growing tomatoes. Products formulated for blooming and tomato feeds have higher amounts of P and K to stimulate flowering and fruiting.

Shop For Summer Flower Fertilizer

When To Switch To Summer Feeds

There are telltale signs that the time is right to change to summer flower fertilizers in your summer gardening checklist. Primarily, look for when the plants are starting to flower or set fruit – this is a key indicator that their nutrient needs have changed and the perfect time to switch feeds.

However, there are some less desirable signs you may see in summer that suggest your plants need a pick-me-up. As James Swartzentruber, CFO for HyR BRIX Fertilizer, suggests: ‘If you have large, healthy-looking plants but few flowers or fruit, it may be lacking in the nutrients required to develop them.’

A plant that looks leafy and green, but is not flowering or fruiting well, may be getting too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus or potassium to develop lots of healthy buds and blooms. A dose of summer flower fertilizer can help provide these essential nutrients that it may be lacking.

To ensure your soil doesn’t lack any particular nutrients, it is often recommended to do a soil test every few years to check the levels. You can get a simple soil test kit to discover the soil’s nutrient levels and identify any amendments that may be needed before planting.

‘When you notice signs of deficiencies, such as pale green or purple discoloration, it’s time to apply fertilizers to your flowering and fruiting plants,’ says Lotte. ‘If you find any foliar symptoms on your plants, consider performing a soil test to see if your plant is lacking any vital nutrients.’

This soil test kit at Amazon offers a mail-in laboratory analysis and shows 13 different nutrient levels in your soil.

The Mistake To Avoid

It is important not to feed flowering or fruiting plants with too much nitrogen during the summer.

If you are growing ornamental grasses, foliage plants (like coleus or hostas), or leafy greens (such as lettuce or chard), they do require lots of nitrogen, but the types of plants listed earlier won’t thrive with it.

Tyler Potts advises: ‘Too much nitrogen promotes leaves and stems instead of flowers and fruit. It can also cause weaker growth, delayed blooming, and increased pest and disease issues.’

Be careful when browsing the shelves or websites for products, as you can all too easily fall foul of giving flowering plants too much nitrogen. As Lotte warns, even balanced, all-purpose fertilizer often has more nitrogen than potassium or phosphorus.

‘This can lead to a reduction of flowers on your plants, as excess nitrogen encourages vegetative growth and inhibits the production of blooms,’ she says.

To stay safe, read any packaging carefully to see the nutrient make-up, and only ever use the products at the recommended rates.

Perennial and annual flowers will always perform at their best when gardeners regularly fertilize flower beds. An ideal routine involves feeding when plants start actively growing in the spring with a balanced feed, and then giving plants regular liquid feeds as above until early fall. Mulching around plants with organic matter also helps to boost the soil nutrients and retain moisture in the ground.

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Wicker outdoor furniture is having a revival this summer, and if your set is authentically vintage, you are even more on trend. Like with so many things, the best styles are steeped in history and patina. But there's a difference between weatherworn and gracefully aged when it comes to embracing the wicker outdoor furniture trend, and the secret lies in one easily overlooked thing – how you clean it.

'Vintage wicker is often made from natural rattan, rush, or willow rather than the synthetic resin wicker used in modern outdoor furniture nowadays, so cleaning methods should be different as natural wicker is vulnerable to excess moisture,' advises Samantha-Jane Agbontaen, Interior Designer and Founder of House Designer. 'It can warp, crack, loosen joints, and grow mould if it gets too wet.'

Whether you're thrifting rattan furniture or you've been holding on to an old set that needs some love, cleaning vintage patio wicker is all about care and careful consideration.

1. Remove Dirt and Dust

'Both natural and painted wicker can be cleaned in a similar manner. You start by removing any dirt or dust with either a vacuum fitted with a brush attachment (like these Soft Bristle Round Brushes from Amazon) or a dry microfiber cloth,' explains KC Collins of Chair King Backyard Store.

2. Gently Wipe Down with Warm Water

It's all about taking things slowly when caring for your patio wicker, so once the dust has gone, it's time to bring in the soapy water. Dab your cloth (use a finely woven cloth to ensure you don't scratch the surface of your wicker) and wipe.

'Once all the dust has been removed, add a small amount of dish soap to warm water and apply to the furniture with a damp microfiber rag,' continues KC. 'It’s important not to use too much water. The rag should be damp, not soaked.'

3. Steer Clear of the Hose

While it might be tempting to use a hose, it's best to clean your wicker by hand to prevent any cracking, warping, or snapping. 'Using anything with pressure, such as a hose or pressure washer, could be damaging,' says Samantha-Jane. 'It's perhaps the worst thing you could do as it could damage the weave.'

4. Clean Away Soap With a Soft Rag

'If you want to gently clean your wicker furniture, you'll have to do it by hand,' agrees Rafi Friedman, President of Coastal Luxury Outdoors. 'Water with a bit of dish soap is strong enough to get most dirt off, but gentle enough not to damage the rattan or strip the paint. For especially tough dirt, try putting some of this solution in a spray bottle (these Amazon Leakproof Spray Bottles are a great example) and spraying down the furniture. Let it sit for several minutes, then wipe it with a soft rag. For especially tough spots, a toothbrush or soft-bristled brush can work well.'

5. Allow to Airdry

Once you've washed away your soap residue with water, pat your furniture with a cloth to soak up excess moisture and proceed to let your furniture air-dry in the fresh air. 'Natural wicker becomes flexible when wet, so be sure to let it completely dry before sitting,' says KC. The beauty of this vintage furniture trend is its age and story, so to ensure your set stands the test of time, it's best to approach cleaning with caution rather than haste.

Shop Chic Patio Wicker

The key to keeping your vintage patio wicker in good condition lies in how you care for it. Ensuring you clean your pieces by hand and with care will prevent damage and keep your outdoor set looking good for years to come.

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In summer 2026, if it’s not chrome, I don’t want it – a tricky proposition when we’re all living outdoors. I’d accepted that my chrome obsession would remain confined to the living room, kitchen, and dining table – seashell caviar servers and whatnot – until IKEA quietly dropped a weatherproof silver portable lamp that’s letting me take what is, in my opinion, the coolest look of the season onto my balcony.

And this new IKEA launch costs just $30. Officially, IKEA calls the finish polished nickel, but outdoors, this is about as close as we’re getting to that mirror-like chrome effect without worrying about the elements. Frankly, I didn’t think it was possible.

One reviewer calls it their (very chic) insurance policy against the near-inevitability of a summer power outage. ‘I already have similar lights that cost so much more, so when I saw this one for the price, I purchased two,’ they write. ‘They are nice and heavy and give great light.’

Another reason I’m paying attention? The designer: Carl Öjerstam, one of IKEA’s most celebrated talents, whose 1990s KARLSKRONA rattan lounge chair regularly resells for thousands on the secondhand market. If history repeats itself, this little lamp might prove to be more than just a good summer buy.

Chrome has largely stopped at the patio door, for obvious reasons. But if IKEA has figured out how to make a mirror-like finish that isn’t afraid of a summer storm, I have a feeling this is only the beginning.

More Outdoor Chrome Portable Lamps

Everything’s cooler in chrome. Here are a few more portable lamps helping the metallic trend mosey outdoors.

It may be sweltering, but at least my outdoor lighting looks cool. If you’d like the temperature to follow suit, I also asked designers to share their favorite heat-beating small balcony tricks.

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Growing your own fruit has to be one of the most rewarding things to do as a gardener. One way to get more out of your crops is by propagating them, i.e. multiplying them and growing double as much fruit.

If you grow blueberries, you can propagate them through cuttings. It might seem daunting compared to propagating ornamentals, but the truth is blueberry plants are straightforward to multiply, especially through softwood summer cuttings. It is also possible to propagate via hardwood cuttings in fall, though this takes much longer.

There are only a handful of steps to successfully propagate blueberries from cuttings, and you don't need loads of tools either (though, picking up this rooting hormone powder from Amazon will boost your chances of success). Here, with insights from a professional gardener, I talk through each step so you can harvest even more juicy berries from your backyard.

1. Take Healthy Cuttings

'Blueberries can be propagated from hardwood (old growth) or softwood (new growth),' says market gardener, Cody Deluisio.

'Softwood cuttings can be taken from early spring into mid-summer. Hardwood cuttings are taken after the leaves have fallen off in the fall,' he explains.

Softwood cuttings tend to provide faster results, as they take root much more easily. But, hardwood cuttings are thought to be more low-maintenance to manage, so there are benefits to both.

Whichever you choose, the first step is to identify and take healthy cuttings.

'Start by cleaning sharp gardening snips with rubbing alcohol. You want them to be very clean,' Cody says.

This will prevent the spread of pests and diseases, and ensure plant health is maintained. These Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon will easily cut through both old and new growth.

For softwood, look for new growth that is flexible and green, and has several sets of leaves. 'Cut 4-6 inches of healthy stem right where it goes to hardwood at a 45° angle,' Cody describes. Take care to cut just below a leaf node, as this is where roots will emerge.

To take hardwood cuttings later in the year, rather focus on last year's growth. This will be the woodier stems, around a pencil's thickness, and 6-10 inches in length. You should cut half-an-inch above a bud, also at a 45° angle.

2. Prepare the Stems

The next step to propagate blueberries from cuttings is cleaning the stems, i.e. removing unnecessary foliage.

'Strip all leaves of but the top two,' Cody advises.

Leaving lower leaves can risk rotting when the cutting is in soil, and also drain's the plant's energy. You can use your fingers to pinch them off or these gardening micro snips from Lowe's to cut them off cleanly, redirecting the cutting's energy into rooting.

For hardwood cuttings, there won't be foliage to remove as the plant is dormant.

For both types of cutting, it's recommended to dip the end in rooting hormone. This is a powder (it also comes in gel form, like this rooting hormone gel from Amazon) that contains plant auxins responsible for rooting.

'Rooting hormone is optional but greatly improves success,' Cody notes.

3. Plant the Stems

With your cuttings prepped, the next step is to plant them in a well-draining, acidic soil to help them root.

'Put the cutting into an acidic mix, either a store-bought acidic potting mix (like this from Walmart) or 50/50 peat moss and perlite (which you can purchase from Amazon),' says Cody. 'Place the end of the cutting approximately two inches deep and firm the soil around it,' he describes.

Blueberries are acidic-loving plants, so if needed you can make your soil more acidic for both your existing shrubs and new plants.

'Soak the soil and let it drain for 15-30 minutes,' Cody says.

4. Find a Home For Your Cuttings

Where you keep your blueberry cuttings depends on whether they're hardwood or softwood.

'For softwood cuttings, place the container in a greenhouse or a bag to keep humidity up. Make sure it gets indirect sunlight,' Cody describes.

You should maintain consistent moisture and a temperature between 68-77°F. These humidity domes from Amazon can be useful to use if you aren't able to provide a greenhouse. Take care to place the cuttings somewhere with bright light.

Hardwood cuttings don't need so much humidity because they are dormant and leafless. Instead, keep them somewhere bright and cool, and maintain consistent moisture without becoming soggy in winter conditions.

A cold frame (you can find affordable portable cold frames at Walmart), unheated greenhouse, or a sheltered wall are the best options for hardwood cuttings.

5. Regularly Check Your Cuttings

One of the biggest propagation mistakes for any plant is neglecting your cuttings and expecting them to still take root. Instead, you should be regularly checking on cuttings.

Softwood blueberry cuttings usually root within six to 10 weeks, while hardwood cuttings take several months.

You should maintain high humidity and moisture for softwood cuttings, while watching out for overly wet soil and temperature fluctuations for hardwood cuttings.

This soil moisture meter from Amazon can help you get watering right by identifying the moisture level in soil for you.

Give your cutting a gentle pull to check whether it has rooted before planting up.

'Take care not to tug for at least six weeks, the roots will be very weak and can be easily broken,' Cody warns.

What to Shop

If you're struggling to get a harvest out of your blueberries, read up on our guide to getting a blueberry bush to fruit. One of the most important aspects to get blueberry bush pruning right, to keep your plant healthy and strong.

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There's a huge shift in the way we see and design our outdoor spaces. Instead of being separate from our homes, they are becoming an extension of indoor living spaces, and one of the coveted features is the outdoor kitchen. And as renovation costs continue to increase, modular designs are rising as the ultimate solution.

It's a new way to create a luxurious cooking space for hosting and socialising. While people are entertaining al fresco far more than ever before, outdoor kitchens are being used more frequently as a backyard living space for everyday activities and enjoyment.

And it's clear that built-in designs are no longer the most coveted look. 2026 is the year modular outdoor kitchens get the recognition they deserve, offering flexible luxury that evolves with you at a more affordable price point. And it turns out, designers are totally on board with this emerging approach.

The Appeal of Modular Outdoor Kitchens

Installing an outdoor kitchen is no small endeavour, especially if you choose a custom, built-in design. The costs are high, with the price of an outdoor kitchen ranging from $10,000 to $50,000, while the cost of installation can vary from $15,000 to $25,000, not to mention the disruption of groundworks and the ever-growing contractor timelines.

The truth is, few people want to commit to such an expense, nor do they want to wait that long for an outdoor kitchen. We crave instant gratification, and a modular outdoor kitchen is the closest design we can get to that. Plus, modular designs have become just as luxurious and high-end.

'The market has matured enormously,' says Adam Arya, co-founder of Arya Douge. 'A few years ago, the choice was fairly limited, whereas today there are incredibly sophisticated modular systems that can be tailored to the way you actually live and entertain.'

The rise in this outdoor kitchen idea also comes with the changing attitudes to our outdoor spaces and how we use them. Once reserved for the summer months, backyards are now becoming destinations year-round, so kitchen designs need to be flexible to serve a purpose through the seasons.

Perhaps the biggest draw, choosing a modular design gives homeowners the option to change their minds later, giving a luxurious addition to their home greater flexibility. You might want to extend the kitchen later down the line, or rethink the layout. By choosing a modular outdoor kitchen, it's easier to make those changes or upgrades without having to reinvest in a whole new outdoor kitchen.

'The beauty of a modular kitchen is that you don’t have to do everything at once – you can begin with what you need and build your dream outdoor kitchen one piece at a time. A little planning can go a long way. Considering how you want to use your outdoor kitchen, whether for cooking, entertaining, or both, can help guide you to the perfect solution,' adds Karen Haas, IKEA US Home Furnishings Business Leader, Workspaces & Outdoor.

How Ensure a Modular Outdoor Kitchen Looks Elevated

Because so much time is spent here, modular outdoor kitchen designs have had to evolve from basic, function-first aesthetics to feel more in-keeping with the styles and materials we would embrace inside our homes. They feel more reminiscent of a freestanding kitchen, a style proving enduringly popular indoors. But it's also the materials and finishes that make a difference to how luxurious it feels.

Think powder-coated cabinetry that looks sleek but remains durable, paneled wood doors that add a rustic, natural feel, and even beautiful stone outdoor kitchen countertops, sometimes finished in a waterfall design. There's also more creativity when it comes to cooking appliances, with many designers opting for pizza ovens over a traditional grill.

'As with any interior, the materials make all the difference. Natural stone and beautifully detailed joinery help elevate a modular kitchen beyond something purely functional. The most successful schemes feel as though they belong to the architecture and landscape, rather than appearing as a standalone piece of garden equipment,' says Claire Sá, Co-Founder of De Rosee Sa.

Think of it as creating a hospitality-inspired backyard, the sort of landscape and luxury you find at your favorite hotels. The kitchen should feel as beautiful and considered as the plants in your borders, or the outdoor living room you've created beside it. A modular outdoor kitchen gives you added flexibility to create something that perfectly fits your space, but can be altered as your landscaping changes.

Don't stop at the practical details. Introduce beautiful hardware or a faucet with a more elegant silhouette. Think about the ambiance – charming lamps on the countertops, or even integrated lighting that adds a soft glow as the evening grows darker. It's the small details that take a modular outdoor kitchen to the next level.

How to Maximize Function With a Modular Outdoor Kitchen

Function still has to be a key consideration – something designers say won't negatively affect the elevated style of your modular kitchen. 'True functionality is achieved with practical, well-planned elements,' says Mark Latchford, Director of Landscaping at HollandGreen.

'These include durable, weather-resistant work surfaces, integrated refrigeration and storage, and a sink for convenience, all arranged in a logical workflow to make cooking outdoors effortless and enjoyable,' he explains, adding that you need to make key layout considerations, including whether you wish to face guests as you cook, have the sink hidden from view, and if you want to include bar seating as well as a more formal dining set up.

Outdoor kitchens are the hub of cooking, so really think about the materials you are choosing, both aesthetically and in terms of durability. 'For outdoor cooking, materials need to be durable and easy to clean,' says Karen.

'Stainless steel is a great choice for countertops and cooking areas as it’s hygienic and resistant to rust. Powder-coated or galvanized steel also helps create sturdy, weather-ready frames, while pre-treated acacia wood adds warmth and a natural look while protecting against weather, stains, and wear.'

If you desire the flexibility of an outdoor kitchen island that can be moved when you require more floor space, a portable design fits in beautifully with a modular scheme – it also allows you to move the island between outdoor living spaces if you need it to double as an outdoor bar or poolside snack station. It's these subtle versatilities that make modular designs so appealing.

Make sure you consider storage, too. A modular outdoor kitchen feels most successful with a mix of styles, including closed cabinetry to keep ingredients protected, as well as some open shelving for easy access to cooking essentials.

'The best modular outdoor kitchens combine practical materials with small yet smart details, including hooks for utensils, adjustable shelves, closed storage, and enough workspace to prepare, cook, and serve without having to run back inside,' Karen adds.

Don't forget to think about the bigger picture, though, like how your modular outdoor kitchen fits within the wider landscape of your backyard. Location is really important, both in terms of its location and the kitchen's architecture. Just because you are going modular with the design doesn't mean you shouldn't factor in a shade cover.

'One of the biggest mistakes people make is placing a kitchen in full afternoon sun. Whether it's a pergola, canopy, or carefully positioned planting, creating a shaded preparation area while allowing the dining space to enjoy the evening light transforms how comfortable-and how frequently-the space is used,' suggests Adam.

Shop Modular Outdoor Kitchens and Accessories

A modular outdoor kitchen is all about flexibility of design and instant gratification. Every backyard is different, so the kitchen you install should reflect that, allowing you to make changes as you need them.

'The appeal isn't simply that the kitchen is modular; it's that it allows outdoor living to be designed with the same level of thought as the interior of the home,' says Adam. 'The kitchen becomes one element within a much larger outdoor room.'

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As Coco Chanel famously coined, simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance. I believe this sentiment stretches much further than fashion, and certainly into the world of floral design.

Designing with only one variety of flower is not only simpler for you, it creates an effortlessly stylish effect that can elevate a room or patio dining table in seconds. It was a trick I used a lot when I was a wedding florist (provided the client agreed), as it was especially useful for simplifying large, statement floral arrangements.

The key to this is in your flower selection and the vase you choose. In the most recent episode of Petals & Roots, I show you how to create a high-impact summer design using alliums in one of my favorite vintage vases.

What You Need For This Allium Floral Design

• For this design I used 17 allium stems
• Floristry snips, such as these ones from Amazon are vital. Spending a bit more on a really good pair of sharp snips or shears pays off as they will last and make light work when cutting through any stem
• A tall, vintage vase. You can scroll down to see my vase edit for inspiration. I also love this blue and white vintage-style vase from Amazon, which would look beautiful on an outdoor table.

How To Create This Design Yourself

As I mentioned, this design relies on the right choice of vase, and a statement variety of flower.

Let's talk about the flowers first. I chose seasonal alliums because they are naturally a sculptural flower, with long, straight stems and also minute layers of interest within their flower heads.

Other flowers you could consider for this kind of design (depending on the season) are hydrangeas, Icelandic poppies, peonies, snapdragons and orchids.

Large alliums come in shades of purple and white, and I chose to keep mine to purple only, selecting three different varieties in the design: gladiator, pinball wizard and schubertii. The latter being the most distinctive and adding a different dimension to the textures and forms in the vase.

If your flowers are more or less the same in shape, you could vary the color options and keep them to a tonal palette or three simple, complementary shades.

Your vase selection will be a personal choice, and possibly governed by what you own already. I wanted something that reflected the curves in the alliums, and a vessel that offered a different color into the floral arrangement.

Choose something that is fairly tall and has a narrow neck, to make it easier to hold your stems in place.

If you can, look at the colors on your vase and see if you can pick any out or complement them with the flowers you choose.

To create a design like this, start by adding three to five of your tallest stems into the vase, which will give you a structure to build from.

Next, introduce another color or variety of flower and bring these lower down into the design, starting to fill out the space.

I added the largest alliums in last as they had shorter stems, and I slotted these into the grid I'd created with the taller ones, to place them higher up in the design.

Then it's simply a case of adding flowers to make the design bigger and create interest from all sides. (I told you it was easy, didn't I?) Make sure you have some shorter flowers lower down, vary the sizes, and if you have a particularly curvy stem, keep it long and let it dance above the rest of the design.

Top Tip: To reduce the onion smell that naturally comes from alliums, change the water in the vase regularly. This will also help to keep your flowers as fresh as possible.

Shop My Vase Edit

Petals & Roots is a weekly video series fronted by me, Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. Every weekend on social, I share my seasonal gardening and flower arranging expertise and advice.

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Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is one of my favorite evergreen climbers. It looks beautiful all year thanks to its glossy green foliage, but by early summer it really comes into its own, producing masses of delicate, pinwheel-shaped white flowers with an unmistakably sweet fragrance. If you're looking to grow and care for star jasmine for year-round interest, June is when you'll really start to reap the rewards.

It's also one of the most important months for keeping the plant healthy. A few simple jobs now will encourage stronger growth, extend the flowering season, and help it cope if temperatures climb later in the summer. Whether you're training it over a pergola, up a sunny wall, or growing it in a large container to make your patio smell nice, these are the June tasks I'd never skip.

1. Water Deeply During Dry Spells

Keeping star jasmine consistently watered is one of the best ways to encourage healthy growth and a long flowering season, especially during hot, dry spells.

I like using the Flexi Hose Expandable Garden Hose from Amazon because it's lightweight, doesn't kink, and stretches as you water before shrinking back down for easy storage. It makes deep watering around climbers, borders, and containers much less of a chore, particularly if you're watering regularly throughout summer.

2. Feed to Support Flowering

If you want to fertilize jasmine for the best possible display, June is the time to do it. Feeding every couple of weeks during peak flowering gives star jasmine the extra energy it needs to keep producing buds and blooming for longer. Once flowers begin to appear, I like to use a fertilizer that's slightly higher in potash, as this encourages more blooms rather than excess leafy growth.

For an easy boost, Miracle-Gro 1-Pound Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food is a great option to maximize blooms. At the same time, Perfect Plants Liquid Jasmine Fertilizer from Amazon is specially formulated to support healthy foliage, vigorous growth, and abundant blooms throughout the growing season. Just avoid overfeeding with nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which can encourage lush leaves at the expense of flowers.

3. Tie In New Shoots

Star jasmine grows surprisingly quickly once temperatures rise, so June is the moment to stay on top of new growth. Any fresh stems should be gently guided and secured to their support while they’re still soft and flexible – left unchecked, they can easily tangle or drift away from the structure you’re trying to cover.

For this, I like using VELCRO Brand Adjustable Plant Ties because they’re soft, reusable, and won’t damage delicate stems as they thicken. For trickier sections or longer runs, Green Garden Wire from Amazon is also a handy option, offering more flexibility when shaping and training growth. Keeping stems evenly spaced not only prevents congestion, but also encourages fuller coverage over walls, fences, and pergolas for a more balanced, established look over time.

4. Remove Finished Flowers

As the earliest blooms begin to fade, it’s worth lightly pruning star jasmine to keep things looking neat and encourage continued flowering. Deadheading isn’t essential for star jasmine, but removing spent blooms where you can helps tidy the plant and can support a longer, more consistent display of fresh flowers through the season.

For quick, precise snips, Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems are ideal, especially for reaching into dense growth without damaging nearby stems. A little regular attention goes a long way in keeping the plant looking its best.

5. Watch for Pests

Although star jasmine is generally low-maintenance, it’s worth keeping an eye out for summer pests as temperatures rise. Aphids and scale insects can occasionally appear during warm weather, especially on soft new growth.

Check young shoots and the undersides of leaves every week or so, particularly on plants growing against warm, sheltered walls where infestations tend to build up more quickly. Catching problems early makes them much easier to manage and helps prevent them from spreading further into the plant.

For a simple, effective treatment option, Natria Neem Oil Spray from Amazon can be used to help control common pests while supporting healthier, more resilient growth.

Star jasmine has a reputation for being wonderfully easy to grow, and that’s certainly been my experience. It’s one of my favorite plants to grow, partly for how little it asks for, but mostly for how much it gives back in return. It also grows beautifully in containers, so if you want to grow star jasmine in pots, it’s just as happy in a large planter as it is in the ground.

There’s something deeply nostalgic about it for me – the first time I grew it, I remember stepping outside in the evening and being completely taken by its scent. Now, every time it blooms, it instantly brings that feeling back. It also does something no other plant quite manages in the same way: it makes my patio smell incredible, especially on warm nights when the fragrance really carries.

Keep it well watered, especially during dry spells, and feed it regularly to support steady growth and flowering. Take a little time to guide those fast-growing stems where you want them to go, and you’ll quickly see a fuller, better-structured plant taking shape.

Handled this way, star jasmine rewards you with glossy evergreen foliage and weeks of beautifully scented flowers that turn even a simple patio into a space you want to linger in a little longer.

Thinning fruit trees is an important summer task that helps you get the best harvests. It may sound counterintuitive, but removing small fruitlets means higher-quality fruits come picking time.

If you are growing apples, pears, plums, peaches, or apricots, thinning fruit trees between mid-June and mid-July rewards you with larger harvests and reduces the risk of branches snapping due to the stress of excess fruit. Up to 50%-75% of small fruitlets can be removed by hand or with small pruning tools.

Thinning fruit trees may sound daunting, but it needn’t be. To remove any potential confusion, I spoke with fruit tree experts about why, when, and how to thin. This guide also reveals the ideal spacing for the most popular types of fruit trees.

An Expert Guide to Thinning Fruit Trees

Many fruit trees, including apples, pears, plums, and peaches, do a ‘June drop’, whereby they naturally shed small fruits in early summer. They do this to focus on a select number of fruits, and gardeners shouldn’t panic if it happens to their trees.

However, even after a ‘June drop,’ you may still need to go out thinning fruit trees to guarantee you get the best yield.

A good pair of pruning shears, like these Felco F2 pruners at Amazon, can make a sound investment and be used for thinning and pruning fruit trees for many years.

Benefits of Thinning Fruit Trees

Even though it may sound counterintuitive, intentionally thinning the number of young fruits developing offers several benefits for any fruit tree. Whether you have an orchard or a few fruit trees in pots on a patio, thinning fruit trees helps them produce the best crop possible year after year.

Primarily, the main reason for thinning fruit trees is to maximise the harvest. It is required because, as Susan Poizner, fruit tree expert and founder of Orchard People, notes, the trees have a habit of producing ‘more fruitlets than they can realistically support’.

‘If you leave them all on the tree, you’ll usually end up with lots of fruit, but the quality won’t be great. The fruit tends to be smaller, and the branches can become overloaded,’ explains Susan.

‘Thinning helps the tree focus its energy on fewer fruits, which means larger, better-quality, and sweeter harvests.’

Thinning fruit trees not only boosts this year’s crop, but can help next year’s, too. It is especially the case with apple or pear trees, which can start to crop biennially – this is when a heavy crop one year is followed by a small or no crop the next. Thinning fruit trees helps prevent the trees from falling into this cropping habit.

Also, thinning fruit trees reduces the risk of branches snapping under the weight of lots of developing fruits. If lots of fruit are left, the branches (which naturally bend but can only take so much strain) can break under the stress. Not only does this mean you lose a productive arm, but the resulting wound is susceptible to pests and diseases.

You can help protect fruit-laden branches with supports, such as these tree crutches at Amazon.

What Fruit Trees Need Thinning

Most fruit trees benefit from thinning, but not all. The likes of apples, peaches, pears, plums, nectarines, apricots, and persimmons all respond well to thinning. If you have any of these, add thinning fruit trees to your early summer gardening checklist.

Some fruit trees don’t need thinning, though. For example, Susan advises: ‘Cherries generally don’t need it because they don’t tend to overproduce in the same way.’

When to Thin Fruit Trees

Young trees can suffer from being cropped too heavily in their tender years. Susan recommends gardeners to remove all baby fruit from apple, peach, apricot, pear, and plum trees for the first two years after planting the fruit tree in your yard.

‘It can feel heart-breaking, but it allows the tree to put its energy into establishing strong roots and healthy branches rather than producing fruit too soon,’ she adds.

Going forward, timing is key when thinning fruit trees. The ideal moment for thinning fruit trees comes after they have done their natural ‘June drop’. Allowing the trees to first naturally shed fruits and then thinning as required prevents you from ending up with little to no fruit.

It is best to go soon after you spot evidence of the ‘June drop’ around your trees. Susan advises: ‘A good rule of thumb is to thin when the fruit is about the size of a nickel.’

If you wait too long, and the fruit gets larger, the benefits of thinning aren’t felt as much. As Loren Taylor, a seasoned landscaper and gardener, says: ‘Doing it early means the tree has not wasted energy on fruit you are going to remove anyway.’

The take-home advice is to wait until after the ‘June drop’ and aim to finish thinning fruit trees in early July.

How to Thin Fruit Trees

The goal with thinning fruit trees is to leave as much fruit as the tree can ripen and the branch can support. It will depend on each particular tree, but don’t be afraid of thinning fruit trees – you have got to be cruel to be kind.

‘It sounds a lot, but aim to remove between 50% and 75% of the fruit so those that are left are better quality,’ Chris Bonnett, plant expert and founder of Gardening Express.

While this may seem a lot, if the fruits are crowded when young, it’ll only get worse as they develop, and they will never reach full size.

Look to keep the largest fruit and first remove any that are small, damaged, or misshapen. This can be done with your hands, by pinching or twisting the fruit off the stem. But do so carefully, as pulling too hard on small fruits can damage the branches.

Or, you can use small pruning tools, such as shears or pruning snips – this is advisable with apples and pears, which both have woodier stems than other young fruits. A perfect tool for the task would be these Fiskars pruning snips, available at Amazon.

The Ideal Spacings When Thinning Fruit Trees by Type:

• Apples: When growing apple trees, the fruits should be thinned to one fruit per cluster. Good apple fruit thinning should leave one fruit every six to eight inches along the branch. It is advisable to remove the ‘king’ fruit at the center of the cluster, as this habitually ends up deformed.
• Pears: Pear trees are best thinned to leave one or two fruits per cluster, with around six inches between developing fruits.
• Peaches: For peaches and nectarines, thin the fruits to one every four to six inches apart. This level of peach tree thinning gives the remaining fruits adequate space to reach a good size.
• Apricots: Thin apricot trees so there are two to four inches between each developing fruit
• Plums: Thinning plum trees should be done so there is one fruit every three or four inches along the branch

What to Shop

To keep them healthy, understanding when to prune fruit trees ensures you trim them at the right time of year. There are differences between trees, and it is not always a winter task. While the likes of apples, pears, and figs want pruning in late winter or early spring, stone fruits, such as cherries, peaches, nectarines, and plums, are best pruned in late spring or summer to prevent silver leaf disease.

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Before Shea McGee moved into her home, she had a very specific dream: hydrangeas. Planted en masse and lining the front of the house in abundance. For someone whose entire creative life is built on translating vision into reality, this was never going to be just a passing thought.

Nearly seven years ago, when the interior designer and her family moved into their home, there was no established garden. Just potential. Shea, who describes herself as 'not a gardener' when she started, began creating the space from scratch. She approached it the way she approaches everything: with intention, restraint, and an eye for how the garden could become an extension of her interior design aesthetic.

Today, those hydrangeas (hydrangea paniculata 'limelight', to be precise) – that took six years to establish their current magnificent scale – line the front of her home just as she'd imagined. But they're only part of a much larger story about how a tastemaker's garden can become a laboratory for creativity, and a daily practice in understanding that a garden, like design itself, is always evolving.

Hydrangeas And What They Taught Me

When we moved into our home, I literally dreamed about having hydrangeas in front of it. They bloom in late summer, so I wait all year, and when they finally pop, they just kind of overtake our house.

Every single year when those flowers finally come, that gratification doesn't get old. And I think it's because I held that vision for so long before I actually had it. I knew exactly what I wanted, and now that it's here, it feels so fulfilling every single year that they bloom.

It took six years for them to reach the scale they're at now. Six years of patience, which is interesting because I'm naturally impatient, especially as a designer. I want things to look beautiful right away.

Now I have hydrangeas lining the front of our home, and I also have them in a small area in the back against our mudroom. They get so big they actually start to cover our windows, and I don't even care. I love it so much. Then I go out and just clip mounds of them.

This past year I dried some of the hydrangea stems and put them in our Christmas tree. I love that antique pink color they turn at the end of the season.

Creating A Garden From Scratch

When we built this home, I wasn't a gardener, but I had a lot of aspirations to become one. I loved the process of learning.

When we first moved in, I created the garden from scratch. I like a restrained palette: greens and whites, and lavenders. That really informed my planting decisions, as well as wanting the hydrangeas, roses and lavender that I clip from regularly.

As an interior designer, I'm always thinking about how the garden works with my home. I want to be inside and look out and feel like it's an extension of my style on the interiors. But also, I love hosting, and I want fresh flowers around my home. So those planting decisions were largely informed around what would be a natural fit in the interior design.

That first year of gardening, I was very nervous. Something about gardening feels intimidating when you don't know what you're doing. But once I just started, I realized I'm going to make mistakes and I'm also going to have beautiful discoveries every single year.

I think a lot of people hesitate to start a garden because they're afraid of failure. And that fear held me back when I was first getting into interior design as well. But then the exact same thing happened in both cases: I just started, I learned, and I became comfortable with the idea that it's okay for something not to work out.

The Designer's Approach

Because I'm impatient and I want something to look beautiful right away, I have a strategy.

When I'm planting my garden beds, I line all of them with little flowers; insect-repelling plants that look beautiful, such as petunias, things that are good right out of the gate.

That gives me that immediate visual impact I'm craving while I'm waiting for everything else to establish. It was wonderful to have a beautiful flower border trailing and spilling over from the very beginning.

Even the colors I choose carry my design aesthetic into the garden. If I'm going to do a marigold, I'm not choosing the vibrant orange. I'm choosing a soft yellow because that's my natural palette, and what I'm drawn to.

I do this on purpose now, but even when I wasn't thinking about it consciously, I was selecting colors and plants that felt aligned with my interior design sensibility.

However, when it comes to the actual vegetables in my kitchen garden, I'm not selecting based on color or design. I'm selecting based on what I actually want to eat and what I can use in my cooking.

The Kitchen Garden Inspiration

I knew I wanted to try my hand at growing food, so I built some raised garden beds, and that was the start. That first year I just went for it.

Now there's a clear path from my kitchen out to that garden. I really enjoy cooking, and I garnish everything with herbs. So herbs and vegetables live in that space, and they're constantly being used.

My new cookbook, Around The Table, available from Amazon, is deeply connected to what I grow. When I was approaching the book, I had a lot of discoveries about myself and how I like to cook. I realized that a lot of it is an extension of how I approach design.

There's something so special about being able to go out and snip fresh herbs and add them into salads. One of my favorite recipes in the book is a garden couscous salad just filled with dill and all sorts of fresh herbs from the garden.

But I also got creative with what I could grow and make. I have a bay leaf cheesecake recipe in the book, where I blend up the bay leaves into a really fine powder and sprinkle it throughout. It's herbaceous but sweet; a totally different way of thinking about a dessert.

Family Time In The Garden

We all have different jobs in the garden, different things we're paying attention to, but what I love most is that we're just occupying a space together outside.

My four-year-old spends the most time with me. She toddles around, loves to find the bugs and the earthworms and the snails and slugs. She's curious about all of it. She spends a lot of time just at my heels.

My older children approach it differently. They'll say, 'This is my cucumber', or 'this is my tomato'. They claim plants. They want to check on that one specific plant, and they take great care of it. They love to harvest, even if it means picking carrots way before they're ready. We end up with these tiny baby carrots, but they taste delicious.

What I love about our time in the garden as a family is that everyone's hands are busy, so there are no screens, no phones. You're just together. And something about being in nature; everyone's nervous system just relaxes and calms down.

With our busy lives, I think we all crave that feeling of being next to the earth, even if we don't realize it at the time. When we come back inside, there's been a little reset.

What The Garden Teaches The Designer

The garden mirrors a lot about what I've learned in interior design. It's taught me that you're constantly evolving. I can stay true to my favorite things in my design aesthetic at my core, but that continues to evolve.

Every year I'm trying a new plant, and I learn things and file them away for later. And I do that with every single project that I undertake as a designer. The garden is that for me, too.

I had hesitation about starting a garden because I was nervous I would fail. And that was something that held me back when I was first starting to get into interior design as well. But I just started and learned. You get comfortable with the idea that it's okay for something not to work out. And there's pride that comes from what does work, and you get to enjoy it.

I'd say to anyone wanting to get their garden started: it doesn't have to be perfect. You don't need to research every single thing. Just go and you'll find out really quickly what your garden needs. It's such a work in progress.

When you plant something, it's going to look way different in a year's time. A garden evolves, just like a home evolves as people grow within it.

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Garden Diaries is our series where we share inspiring stories of designing and cultivating a stunning garden space. We explore how creatives, designers and tastemakers have grown a deeply personal space, inviting creativity, learning and happiness in their gardens, and how they live in these spaces.

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My tomato plants have been off to a slow start this year, so I've been looking for organic solutions to encourage faster growth. That's when I stumbled across a hack: making nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes.

It's an old-school gardening trick to fertilize tomatoes with nettle-infused water, which is packed with nutrients, including nitrogen for vegetative growth. Giving your tomatoes nettle tea fertilizer from spring to early summer encourages strong leaves and stems, setting the plant up for healthy flowering and fruit production later on.

It's really best used before flowers appear, at which point you can switch to a specific tomato fertilizer to support fruiting (like this tomato fertilizer on Amazon). The best part is it's really easy to make your own tomato fertilizer with nettle tea, though it does need to be used correctly to be effective. Here's how it works.

Why Use Nettle Tea for Tomatoes?

It's surprisingly effective to make plant fertilizer using weeds, as they're packed with essential plant nutrients. Nettles in particular are a popular choice for giving plants like tomatoes a boost of nitrogen.

What nitrogen does for plants is aid vegetative, leafy growth. For tomatoes, this means encouraging strong stems and foliage ahead of flowering.

'When tomatoes start to flower, you want the focus to be on fruit production rather than vegetative growth,' explains Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'At this point, the best tomato fertilizer is high in potassium, like this tomato feed on Amazon.

'So, you should only use nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes during early growth, up until flowers appear; otherwise, it could encourage excessive foliage and reduce your yield,' he adds.

Of course, the benefits of nettle tea fertilizer also extend to the fact it's free to make and eco-friendly, with no chemicals required.

But you do have to make it carefully and use it correctly to get the desired results – here's what you need to know.

How to Make Nettle Tea Fertilizer

There are just a handful of steps to make nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes:

1. Put on thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these floral ones from Walmart) to protect your skin. You can then collect fresh nettles from your garden, picking tender tops. You can use pruning shears as an extra precaution to prevent stinging (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon). You should collect enough to fill a bucket halfway (this can be any size bucket, but a 5-gallon bucket is a good choice – like this one from Lowe's).
2. Rinse the nettles to clean off dirt and insects, and then begin chopping them. You can use a kitchen knife or pruning shears to cut them up into smaller pieces. This helps release the nutrients for the fertilizer.
3. Then, fill your bucket. The leaves should come up halfway and you can fill the rest of it with water, making sure the leaves are submerged.
4. You should then leave it to steep for 2-3 weeks, stirring occasionally. It's best to put a breathable cover on the bucket to stop debris and insects getting in, and to contain the strong smell from fermentation. This mesh garden cover from Amazon works well.
5. The tea is ready to use when it is dark and doesn't bubble after being stirred. You should dilute it one cup nettle tea to 10 parts water before applying to your tomato plants every couple of weeks until they flower. Any stronger or more frequent risks root burn from an overload of nutrients.

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This is just one way to increase your tomato yields. You can also use tomato tapping to ensure every flower is pollinated and turns into fruit, and prune tomato plants to remove side shoots draining energy.

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No patio is complete without an outdoor rug. It's the grounding feature that ties the scene together – the decor element that makes the space feel just as design-driven as interior set-ups. So when it comes to choosing the right outdoor rug, you only want the best of the best.

Amazon may not be the first place you would head to buy an outdoor rug, but as a Style Editor, with impeccable taste and a sharp eye for a bargain, I am never one to shun a brand until I have done all the research. And Amazon actually has an amazing selection of chic, well-known brands and affordable options. From neutral picks with subtle patterns to bold floral styles that bloom with energy, these rugs tap into some of the chicest summer trends and can make your patio look like a true outdoor living room.

Plus, you'll even find some of our favorite designer outdoor rug collaborations on Amazon, including Loloi's line with Amber Lewis (I'm obsessed with the subtle texture of the Malibu Rug), Safavieh's outdoor rug range with Martha Stewart (this floral terracotta rug is such a playful pick), and even Nicole Miller's collection of outdoor rugs (this geometric rug is my favorite).

Though I'm certain that Amazon has an outdoor rug for every patio, there are simply so many to choose from – and that can make it hard to find the one that's right for your home. That's why I've perused Amazon's offerings to find what I consider the best outdoor rugs that the retailer has to offer – that is, the most timeless, well-made, and highly-rated picks.

So below, shop nine outdoor rugs from Amazon that'll make your patio feel complete this summer.

Shop The Chicest Outdoor Rugs From Amazon

Once you've chosen your outdoor rug, it's time to turn your attention to Amazon's outdoor furniture range which boasts some surprisingly stylish and well-made picks – including this vintage-inspired bistro set and this cozy loveseat. Between the rugs and the outdoor furniture, you won't need to shop anywhere other than Amazon to prep your patio for summertime.

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The air in enclosed courtyards and urban walled gardens can feel humid and stagnant in summer. High walls, fences and dense planting can restrict air movement and create the perfect conditions for fungal disease, pest infestations and struggling plants.

Knowing how to increase airflow in a courtyard can make a significant difference to plant health, even if you just use these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon to thin out overcrowded stems. According to landscape designer Caroline Ervin, there are several visible signs that indicate that plants are not getting enough air circulation. 'The appearance of powdery mildew or mold is a very obvious sign that the air is stagnant. Additionally, the leaves of plants will curl or turn yellow if they are not getting enough air and oxygen around them,' she explains.

The good news is you don't need to completely redesign your garden to improve the airflow in an urban courtyard. A few simple changes to how you plant, water and arrange your space can create a healthier growing environment. These easy, expert-approved solutions will help protect your plants from summer heat issues and can be incorporated into your favorite summer courtyard garden ideas.

1. Prune Plants To Create A More Open Structure

When leaves and stems become tightly packed together, moisture lingers for longer after rain or watering, which creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, to take hold.

'Proper pruning and thinning of plants can reduce the risk of moisture buildup and increase airflow around the plants,' says Caroline Ervin. 'This does not mean shearing the plants to a smaller size or shape, but rather hand pruning to allow for air circulation into the interior portions of the plants.'

Landscape designer Brooke Addison recommends taking a similar approach. 'Strategic pruning will help open plant structure and keep air from becoming trapped,' she says. 'Open space encourages better airflow. I would also clear lower branches and leaves to provide separation from the soil. This will help with airflow and decrease soil-spread diseases.'

The same thinking applies when introducing new plants to a courtyard. Plants that appear neatly spaced when first planted can quickly grow together and restrict airflow as they mature.

'Be sure to space plants based upon their mature size, not the size that they are when planted,' adds Caroline. 'If a shrub is 4 feet wide at maturity, there should be at least 4 feet of space between the center of that plant and the center of the plant next to it.'

Allowing enough room for plants to reach their full spread will help maintain healthy airflow and reduce the need for corrective pruning at a later stage.

Where to buy: These Felco Secateurs from Amazon have an ergonomic hand fitting design and are suitable for every type of pruning.

2. Rethink Where You Place Furniture And Containers

It's easy to focus solely on plants when you're trying to increase airflow in a courtyard, but simple design tweaks, such as where you place furniture and containers, can have an impact too.

'Do not crowd furniture, especially dense furniture with cushions, next to plants that prevents or impedes airflow around the plants,' says Caroline. In small courtyards, bulky seating, outdoor sofas and large patio umbrellas can unintentionally block natural air from moving and trap humidity around nearby foliage.

If your courtyard has windows or decorative openings in the walls, Brooke recommends keeping those areas clear. 'Keep these areas clear of potted trees or umbrellas to maximize airflow into the garden,' she says. These areas act as natural ventilation points, helping fresh air move through the space.

When arranging a courtyard, think about how air will move through the space in the same way you'd think about sunlight. Leaving clear routes between furniture, containers and planting can make a noticeable difference to plant health during the summer months.

Where to buy: Shop outdoor planters, such as this Bloem Terracotta design from The Home Depot, which is available in various sizes.

3. Water Plants Earlier In The Day

One simple but effective way to look after your plants in a stagnant courtyard is to make sure you are watering plants at the best time of day.

As Brooke explains, watering technique can unintentionally make fungal disease situations worse. 'The best method is to water plants early in the morning. This allows your plant to absorb the moisture it needs before the sun evaporates the water and dries the soil.'

Brooke also points out that mid-day watering increases the chance of the sun burning wet leaves and decreases water efficiency. Watering in the evening isn't always harmful, but repeatedly leaving leaves damp overnight can create conditions that diseases and pests thrive in. This is particularly important if you're growing plants that need more water in a heatwave, where high temperatures can put them under more pressure.

How you water plants matters too. 'Overhead watering where we splash soil up onto the leaves spreads fungal spores,' adds Brooke. Directing water at the base of plants rather than spraying foliage can also help reduce moisture build-up.

Where to buy: A long-spouting watering can make it easier to direct water at the base of the roots. This 1 gallon metal watering can is available from Amazon, and comes in a variety of colours.

4. Keep Shrubs Away From Walls

Where you position shrubs can have a noticeable impact on airflow in a courtyard garden. While it might be tempting to use them to soften walls and boundaries, planting them too close to buildings can create areas of stagnant, humid air where fungal diseases can then spread.

'Avoid placing shrubs directly against an exterior wall,' advises Brooke. 'It can be difficult to prune if your house is blocking access to half the plant. The lack of light to the whole shrub will also cause dieback in those areas that aren’t getting sunlight - and the lack of airflow means an increased risk for plant diseases.'

For those with a planting area outside the courtyard wall, Brooke suggests layering plants at increasing heights outside the boundary; a technique she calls a wind ladder. 'If we can plant in a succession of plant heights, groundcover, perennial, shrub, tree, this disrupts the flow of the wind and produces more turbulent wind patterns that encourage mixing swirls over the edge of the courtyard wall,' she explains. Rather than being deflected around the sides, air tumbles down into the garden instead.

Giving shrubs enough space also makes routine maintenance easier, allowing you to prune and thin growth as needed to keep air moving through the plant.

Where to buy: For heavier pruning of established shrubs, a good pair of loppers gives you the reach and leverage secateurs can't. These Fiskars Bypass Loppers from Amazon are lightweight, sharp and suited to thinning out dense courtyard shrubs.

5. Improve Drainage And Switch To Drip Irrigation

Excess moisture is one of the biggest contributors to humidity build-up in enclosed courtyard gardens, so it's important to ensure water can drain away freely.

'Make sure that any plants in containers have plenty of room for the roots to grow and allow for extra water to escape through proper drainage holes,' says Caroline. 'Preventing waterlogged soil is important as it can inhibit plant growth and promote fungal diseases.'

If you regularly find puddles forming after heavy rain, consider whether compacted soil, blocked drainage channels or overcrowded containers could be slowing water movement through the space.

Drip irrigation systems are worth considering for courtyard gardens with multiple containers. 'Drip irrigation or soaker hoses prevent the splashing of spores onto our plants.' says Brooke. By delivering water to the root zone rather than over foliage, they reduce the amount of moisture released into the surrounding air, making it easier to water consistently.

Where to buy: You can buy this Raindrip Drip Watering System from Amazon. It includes a timer and is specifically designed for hanging baskets and containers.

6. Remove Diseased Debris And Add Mulch

Good airflow can prevent fungal problems from developing, but if disease is already present, it's important to remove the source as quickly as possible.

'If you're dealing with plant diseases, you need to remove any fallen leaves or pruned materials from your property, or you'll be dealing with the issue year after year,' says Brooke.

Once the area is clear, a layer of mulch can prevent any remaining spores in the soil from splashing back onto the foliage during watering or rainfall.

Brooke suggests applying mulch around three inches deep around the base of plants, while keeping it pulled back from stems and trunks to avoid trapping moisture against the bark. 'Wet mulch holding moisture against your plant bark will just continue the fungi-loved growing conditions we're trying to avoid,' she says.

Bark mulch is a practical option for courtyard gardens, helping to suppress weeds, regulate soil moisture and reduce soil splash. Just make sure you leave a small gap around the base of the plant.

Where to buy: This Natural Pine Bark Mulch from Amazon can be used as a soil additive for drainage or as mulch to lock in soil moisture.

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Paying a little extra attention to the airflow in your courtyard can go a long way to keeping plants healthy and the space looking its best, particularly through the hottest months of the year.

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Cosmos are one of the hardest-working annual flowers in the summer garden. Easy to grow, drought tolerant once established, and loved by pollinators, they can flower continuously from early summer right through to the first fall frost. Whether you're growing classic Cosmos bipinnatus, sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), or one of the many newer compact varieties, a little attention in June can make a huge difference to just how spectacular that display becomes.

If you're learning how to grow cosmos successfully, June is an important month. Across much of the US, plants are now growing quickly, with many beginning to produce their first flowers. This is the ideal time to move beyond simply establishing your plants and start encouraging stronger growth, more blooms, and a longer flowering season.

With so many beautiful types of cosmos available, from tall cottage-garden favorites to container-friendly cultivars, a few simple maintenance tasks now will help ensure a show-stopping display throughout summer and into fall.

1. Deadhead Regularly to Encourage More Flowers

One of the most important jobs for cosmos in June is deadheading. If you're wondering how to deadhead cosmos, simply snip faded blooms off just above a healthy set of leaves or a side shoot. I like using the Felco F322 Pruning Snips from Amazon for this task – their slim, precise blades make it easy to remove spent flowers without disturbing nearby buds or foliage.

The more consistently you deadhead cosmos, the more flowers you're likely to get. It's a simple but highly effective task that can significantly extend the flowering season, keeping plants blooming freely and looking fresh well into late summer and even early fall.

2. Stake Tall Varieties Before Summer Storms Arrive

Many cosmos varieties can easily reach 4 to 6 feet tall by midsummer, especially in fertile soil. While their airy, cottage-garden habit is part of their charm, those tall stems can be vulnerable to heavy rain, strong winds, and summer thunderstorms.

Adding supports now – before plants become top-heavy – is much easier than trying to rescue fallen stems later. Bamboo stakes, grow-through supports, or discreet plant rings all work well while preserving the plant's natural, meadow-like appearance. I often use simple Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon, which blend seamlessly into borders and provide just enough support to keep stems upright without detracting from the plant's soft, billowing look.

3. Pinch Back Leggy Growth

If some of your cosmos are looking tall and sparse, June is still a good time to pinch out cosmos. Simply remove a few inches from the growing tips of young stems to encourage branching, creating a bushier plant with more flowering stems.

It can feel counterproductive to cut back a plant that's growing well, but the result is often a fuller, stronger plant with significantly more blooms later in the season. If you're wondering when to pinch out cosmos, early summer is ideal, giving plants plenty of time to produce fresh growth before they hit their peak flowering period.

4. Avoid Overfeeding

One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when they fertilize cosmos is treating them like heavy-feeding annuals. In reality, cosmos often perform best in relatively modest soil conditions.

Too much fertilizer – particularly high-nitrogen products – can encourage lush green foliage at the expense of flowers. If your soil is poor, a light application of a balanced fertilizer is usually plenty. I like using Osmocote Smart-Release Plant Food or Miracle-Gro Shake 'n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food, both available on Amazon, as they provide a gentle, steady supply of nutrients without overwhelming plants. Otherwise, many cosmos will happily bloom all summer with little additional feeding. When it comes to fertilizing cosmos, a lighter touch almost always delivers the best results.

5. Keep Plants Well Watered During Heatwaves

Although cosmos are relatively drought-tolerant once established, newly planted specimens and younger plants can struggle during prolonged periods of extreme heat. If you're wondering how often to water cosmos, deep, occasional watering is generally better than frequent shallow watering, as it encourages stronger root growth.

As temperatures climb across many parts of the US in June and July, knowing how to water plants in a heatwave becomes increasingly important. Deep watering during dry spells can help maintain healthy growth and support continuous flowering.

For larger beds, I like using the Husky Oscillating Sprinkler from The Home Depot, which provides even coverage and makes it easier to give plants a thorough soak during hot weather. Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead where possible, particularly during humid conditions, to reduce the risk of disease and ensure moisture reaches the roots where it's needed most.

6. Thin Crowded Plants for Better Airflow

By now, your cosmos can begin filling out rapidly. If plants are growing too close together, consider thinning them slightly to improve airflow. Good spacing helps reduce the risk of powdery mildew and allows each plant to develop stronger stems and a more attractive shape. It also makes deadheading and harvesting cut flowers much easier throughout the season.

Shop Cosmos Essentials for June

With just a few minutes of attention in June, cosmos will reward you with months of colorful blooms, attracting bees, butterflies, and other pollinators while bringing a relaxed, cottage-garden feel to borders, cutting gardens, and containers alike. Their pollinator-friendly qualities are one reason why Kate Moss planted cosmos in her garden to attract bees, proving that these easy-going annuals are as beneficial to wildlife as they are beautiful.

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When the sun is doing its absolute best (read: relentless) and your garden suddenly feels more like a suntrap than a sanctuary, shade becomes less of a luxury and more of a necessity.

That’s where ALDI’s Belavi Sun Shade Sail comes in. Priced at just $14.99, it offers a surprisingly design-led solution to one of summer’s most common outdoor living room problems: how to stay cool without resorting to bulky umbrellas or permanent structures. It’s already proving popular too, with the shade sail a best-seller and reportedly selling out fast as temperatures climb.

Available in dark slate and warm grey, it’s an understated upgrade that blends rather than dominates. Instead of interrupting the garden, it adds a soft architectural line overhead that instantly makes a patio feel more intentional, shaded, and usable in peak heat.

I’ve always found shade sails to be one of those small but transformative garden shade upgrades. In my own small patio garden, I use the LOVE STORY Triangle Sun Shade Sail Canopy from Amazon, and it’s genuinely been a bit of a saviour on hot days – turning what would otherwise be a heat-trapped, unusable space into somewhere I can actually sit, work, and unwind comfortably.

A Space-Saving Alternative to Umbrellas

What makes shade sails increasingly popular is their ability to solve a very modern problem: outdoor space is often limited, but we still want maximum comfort. Unlike traditional outdoor umbrellas that take up valuable floor space and need repositioning throughout the day, a shade sail is fixed overhead, freeing up room for seating, dining, or lounging underneath.

Design experts have long noted that overhead shading can actually feel more natural in small gardens, especially where pergolas or permanent structures aren’t an option. The Belavi design follows this same principle – lightweight, minimal, and easy to install between anchor points like walls, fences, or posts.

The result is a shaded 'outdoor room' effect, without the cost or commitment of built construction.

Designed for Real Summer Living

Beyond aesthetics, the real draw is practicality. Shade sails like this are designed to reduce direct sun exposure in key areas of the garden, helping to keep surfaces cooler and more comfortable to sit on during peak hours. That means less overheated furniture, more usable outdoor time, and a noticeable difference on hot afternoons.

It’s worth noting that, like most shade sails, performance depends on correct installation. A slight angle is key to allowing rainwater to run off and preventing pooling – something that’s especially important if you want it to last beyond a single season.

In smaller gardens, courtyards, or patio setups, this kind of simple overhead cover can completely change how the space is used. Instead of retreating indoors when temperatures spike, you can actually stay outside comfortably for longer stretches of the day.

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As is the case with every small space, there are tried and tested ways to highlight its potential, and easy-to-make mistakes that do the complete opposite.

Choosing the right colors, layouts, materials, and what you actually put in the space all give you the opportunity to 'expand' or 'shrink' your outdoor areas – and knowing what could be making your small patio feel smaller can be just as important as tips on making it look bigger.

From bulky outdoor furniture to overcrowding the space with too many small pieces, here's what designers warn could be making your tiny patio look even smaller, and what you should be doing instead.

1. Large Heavy Furniture – Choose More Compact Styles Instead

Before buying outdoor furniture, consider the size of your space and what suits it. A bulky dining set, for example, might sound like a good idea to seat all of your guests, but if they can't actually move around the space, it's not going to function properly.

'Stop using heavy, dark wood furniture with bulky arms when you have a small patio,' explains interior design Kira Young, founder of High Tide Design. 'Wide arms outdoor furniture is great for comfort and makes the space feel grand, substantial, and cozy. Dark furniture also visually appears bigger and heavier, and will make your patio look crowded and small.'

Whether you're creating an outdoor living room or a dining area for alfresco eating, embrace lighter, summery materials instead of heavier woods and more mobile shapes. 'My go-to is natural rattan or woven rope-design furniture that has an open back or spacing detail between them,' explains Kira. 'They make the space feel airy and appear larger. Add patterns or print outdoor pillows for a pop of color.'

2. Too Many Pieces – Keep Things Simple

'The most common faux pas I see people make when styling their small patio falls into one of two categories, and both are related to proper spatial planning,' explains Sophia deDomenico, founder of Et Sal Interiors. 'Either choosing furniture pieces that are way too large for the patio or trying to scale down and cluttering the patio with a myriad of smaller items that make the patio feel cramped.'

Whether it's a front patio or a private, small garden, filling your patio with too much furniture or decor will only make it feel more cramped. 'In both scenarios, that patio doesn't allow for any breathing room, which makes a small patio feel like a claustrophobic nightmare,' adds Sophia. 'A perfect balance of use, visuals, and feel is struck when items are present but not overwhelming, balanced to the size of the space, and set with enough intention that allows a room to feel open, airy, curated, and calm.'

'One of the biggest mistakes I see on small patios is simply trying to fit too much into the space,' agrees Burcu Ercetin of Design & Curations. 'Oversized sofas, multiple furniture pieces, and too many accessories can quickly make a patio feel crowded. In smaller outdoor spaces, I would encourage focusing on fewer, better pieces. Instead of a large sofa, a pair of bistro chairs with a small table can feel much more inviting while allowing for better circulation and flexibility.'

3. Tiny Furniture – Get the Scale Right

While bulky furniture can overwhelm a small outdoor dining room or lounge area, tiny chairs, tables, or sofas can also highlight how small your patio is.

'Tiny furniture can actually often highlight the confines of a small space,' explains interior designer Caroline Kopp. 'Don't make your small patio feel more tiny than it is by only using small pieces of furniture. Figure out the largest outdoor sofa or chair you can fit, and put that in, together with appropriately sized tables. Using larger pieces of furniture creates the impression of a larger space.'

There's a fine line between being overly generous and underdoing it when it comes to investing in the right furniture for your small patio. Before shopping for an outdoor dining table or a new set of deck chairs, consider how they'll look in the space and how much room they'll take up. For example, an outdoor sofa might not work in a small corner of your patio, whereas a narrow bench and low outdoor coffee table may feel more natural.

4. Lacking Cohesion – Connect Your Indoor and Outdoor Spaces

While your garden and interior might be literally divided, that's not to say they need to feel entirely different. 'Nothing makes a small space seem smaller than visual clutter from furnishings, tones, and textures that are inconsistent with the adjacent interior,' says Gina Elkins of Studio Casa Vita. 'While we certainly don't recommend matchy-matchy design, a total lack of cohesion between indoor and outdoor aesthetics creates a busy atmosphere that undermines the space and kills the patio vibe.'

Whether you're creating a coastal garden and layering nautical decorations to match your beachy home or are investing in permanent details like an angular outdoor coffee table to go with your midcentury modern interior, pulling inspiration from your home will ensure your garden feels connected to the overall design.

'And don't feel pressured to fit all of your seating and accessories under a covered area. It's okay to let pieces spread out and push past the shaded boundary to add dimension and visual interest,' adds Gina. 'We like to use design elements like stools, plants, and lanterns beyond the perimeter of the space to help it breathe. If you're set on shaded seating, try a free-standing umbrella or define height with potted plants and citrus trees.'

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Overcrowding your small patio with bulky furniture, too many accessories, or dramatic greenery will only draw attention to its size. Consider scale before investing in pieces, and look to create a sense of harmony with your indoor and outdoor settings.

'Using lighter colors, incorporating vertical greenery, and selecting furniture with exposed legs can help create a more open feeling,' explains Burcu. 'You can consider a player over the rails instead of a floor planter. I also love adding climbing plants, or a pergola element, to draw the eye upward and make the space feel larger than it is.'

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One of the most effective ways to make a patio and garden feel cooler is to surround it with the right plants. It's not a substitute for an air con unit, but leafy trees, vigorous climbers and moisture-loving foliage plants can help create a cooler microclimate by providing shade, reducing reflected heat and releasing moisture into the air.

For this reason, some of the best plants for cooling a patio combine height, dense foliage and large leaves. They create dappled shade, absorb heat and some even have beautifully scented flowers.

Together, the five plants suggestions below can transform a sun-baked patio into a greener, fresher and more comfortable outdoor retreat. Plus, you could grow them in a large self-watering planter, such as this set from Amazon. They are a gamechanger in hot weather and take the effort out of constant watering.

Bay Tree

I have a bay tree (Laurus nobilis) growing in the ground next to my backyard patio, and it is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants to look after.

Granted, it isn't big enough to take the place of a shade sail, but it has dense, evergreen foliage, that creates natural shade and helps create cooler microclimates on the patio.

It is easy to clip into the shape I want, and it grows vigorously every year after it's annual prune.

This bay laurel at Plant Addicts is where I would start if I didn't already have one, and you can use the leaves in cooking, too.

Bays are also ideal trees for pots, so you could even start small and move it around to help create shade at different parts of the day.

Star Jasmine

The thick vines of star jasmine (trachelospermum jasminoides) provides evergreen cover for hot walls, absorbing heat in the process. It can be trained over pergolas, fences and walls, helping to shade surfaces that would otherwise absorb and radiate heat throughout the day.

This incredible star jasmine vine from Plant Addicts comes in a wide variety of pot sizes, so it's fantastic option if you want to get a more established plant right from the get-go.

This headily fragrant climber thrives in hot conditions, and is often found growing in abundant swathes, adorning pergolas, walls, patio trellises and gazebos in Mediterranean climates.

Once established, star jasmine is also relatively drought tolerant, making it a practical choice for sunny patios in warmer regions.

Crape Mrytle

Crape myrtle (lagerstroemia indica) is an wonderful shrub to cool a patio as it has naturally airy canopy, creating dappled shade without making a space feel dark or blocking out the light.

In summer, it produces masses of flowers that can last for weeks, and the long leaves of crape myrtle help to soften hard landscaping.

Like all leafy plants, crape myrtle releases water vapour through its leaves. This transpiration can slightly cool the surrounding air, particularly when the tree is in full leaf during the summer.

This stunning crape myrtle from Nature Hills has vibrant hot pink flowers and dark burgundy foliage, and would also help to create privacy screen on a patio.

Hardy Banana

Nothing quite shouts tropical like a banana tree. With its huge leaves, whether grown in the ground or a pot, it creates instant shade, and a cooling visual effect.

You can find cold hardy banana trees at Plant Addicts, which will grow down to USDA hardiness zone 5.

In warmer weather, cold hardy bananas can grow fast, so if planting in the ground make sure you give it enough room to expand. A specific banana tree fertilizer, such as this one from Amazon, will also give it a boost and encourage fruits.

If you want an option that is perfect for a pot, this dwarf 'Cavendish' banana tree from Fast Growing Trees might be the perfect option for you.

Ostrich Fern

Thinking not just about height and shade, but also plants lower to the ground that can help to cool a patio, ostrich ferns are well worth a mention.

Ferns help to cool the areas around seating by increasing humidity from their large, feathery fronds. Their lush foliage can also lightly cover hard landscaping, reducing the amount of reflected heat from a patio and making seating areas feel fresher.

I have a lot of these ferns in my yard, and they are very easy to establish around a patio, preferring shade to a full sun position. They are also simple to grow in containers. My ostrich ferns can produce fronds that are between two and three feet in height, and with their beautiful texture the leaves are always a welcome addition when they begin to appear in spring.

You can find ostrich fern plants at Amazon.

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Creating a cooler patio doesn't have to rely on pricey outdoor upgrades. By choosing plants wisely, you can transform even the most sun-exposed space into a greener, more comfortable retreat for summer. And once you have your plants sorted, it's time to add those outdoor string lights, no?

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Summer has officially arrived and high temperatures are scorching our gardens. But it isn't just our plants that need some extra care during such extreme weather, hummingbirds also need some support to stay cool and hydrated.

If you want to attract hummingbirds to your yard during the summer, it's important to set up some precautions to keep them cool. This includes a shady retreat out of the sun, a fresh water source, and clean feeders full of nectar.

It's actually super easy to incorporate all of these things in your yard (picking up a red glass hummingbird feeder from Walmart is a good place to start). Here are three simple ways you can help these charming little birds during the hottest months of the year.

1. Provide a Cooling Mist

A big part of feeding birds in your garden is providing a water source, most commonly with a bird bath. But, hummingbirds actually prefer mist to a pool of water.

During the heat especially, morning dew and water vaopr from natural water sources is crucial to keeping them cool and clean. In your garden, you can offer mist by placing a solar fountain in your bird bath (this one from Amazon is highly rated).

This hanging solar fountain bird bath from Amazon is also a good option, as you can hang it in the shade to keep the water cool.

This will provide movement in your bird bath and a soft spray for the hummingbirds to fly through.

It's important to clean your bird bath regularly to ensure the water is topped up and hygienic for all the garden birds using it.

2. Refresh Feeders Regularly

Hummingbirds primarily get their hydration from the nectar they consume. That's why a hummingbird feeder (like this red one from Amazon) is an essential to have when trying to support these birds in your yard.

It's important to keep your hummingbird feeder topped up with nectar (you can purchase hummingbird nectar from Walmart) and to clean your hummingbird feeder more often in hot weather. The nectar will spoil more quickly, so refresh it everyday or at least every other day.

It can also be wise to place your hummingbird feeder in a shaded spot to stop it spoiling so quickly and to stop the nectar overheating.

This glass hummingbird feeder wind chime from Amazon is a perfect option for hanging from a tree branch in shade. It has multiple feeders which create a calming sound as the breeze hits. It's also currently just $28.79 in the Amazon Prime Day sale, so now is the time scoop it up.

This hummingbird feeder cleaning brush from Amazon is useful to pick up, too, so you can make sure the feeding ports are safe for birds to use.

3. Create a Shady Resting Spot

Another way to help hummingbirds beat the heat is by providing resting spots in shade.

Hummingbirds often look for perches in shaded areas to escape the sun, conserve energy, hide from predators, and preen their feathers.

You can add these hummingbird swings from Walmart to a low tree branch under shade. Likewise, take care not to prune tree branches back so much that all shade is eradicated.

By planting nectar-rich hummingbird plants for shade under these canopies, you can create the ultimate cool spot for them to rest and feed in.

Denser shrubs are also used by these birds, including these viburnums from Plant Addicts. It can be effective to position feeders near these shrubs.

Garden shade from structures can also help, so consider placing hummingbird resources under pergolas or in the shade cast by buildings.

What to Shop

Whether you already have a hummingbird feeder or you're planning to add one to your yard this summer, it's important to read up on hummingbird feeder mistakes to avoid. This includes leaving feeders out during cold nights where the nectar can freeze.

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I’ve been into rain chains for years now, and we’ve written about them on Homes & Gardens quite a bit because they sit in that nice middle ground between something practical and something that also genuinely improves how a garden feels when it rains.

They’ve been having a bit of a moment in outdoor design lately, but they’re actually far from new. Rain chains originate from ancient Japan, where they were used to guide and harvest rainwater, and you still see them used in traditional Japanese homes and gardens today.

I’ve got the Lotus Rain Chain from Amazon in my own garden, and one of the things I appreciate most about it is how useful it is beyond just looking good. Instead of rainwater disappearing straight into a drain, it can be directed into a water butt or container and reused around the garden, which feels especially worthwhile during dry spells.

If you're looking for a more budget-friendly way to achieve the same effect, the 6 Feet Small Metal Chain with Hooks offers a similar rainwater-collecting benefit for a fraction of the price.

That feels especially relevant right now, with the hotter, drier spells we’ve been seeing across both the US and Europe, followed by sudden, heavy downpours. When the weather swings like that, being able to capture and reuse rainwater properly starts to feel less like a nice extra and more like a simple habit worth keeping.

Why Rain Chains Work So Well

Costco’s Copper Rain Chain works in the same way, replacing a standard downpipe with something that slows the water down and makes collection more practical. Instead of rain disappearing instantly, it’s guided cup by cup, which makes it easier to channel into watering systems or barrels. And because it’s copper, it also develops that softer, weathered finish over time that blends into the planting rather than sitting as something new and shiny against the house.

There’s also a quieter benefit you only really notice after a while. The sound of rain changes – it’s softer, more broken up, almost rhythmic, rather than the harsh rush you get from guttering. On heavier days, the sound is rather calming and mesmerizing, especially if you’re by a window or outside under cover.

‘Rain chains work because they help you make better use of something that’s often wasted,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'They guide water in a way that makes it easier to collect and reuse for watering plants, which is a simple but meaningful step towards a more sustainable garden. And just as importantly, they change the sound of rain in the garden. Instead of a harsh rush, you get a softer, more layered noise that adds a sense of calm, especially during heavier weather.’

When it comes to placement, the best places for a rain chain are the ones where you can actually make the most of the water. Ideally, that means somewhere it can feed straight into a barrel or another collection point, so the rain isn’t just disappearing into drainage. They also work really well where runoff naturally moves into planting beds, especially gravel areas or established garden borders that can help soak it up rather than lose it.

What I like most is that you almost forget they're there. Then it starts raining, and suddenly they're quietly doing their thing – guiding water you can reuse in the garden and creating this lovely, gentle trickling sound in the background. It’s such a small detail, but it makes rainy days feel a bit more special.

Shop Alternative Rain Chains

Costco’s copper rain chain is one of those seasonal garden buys that tends to sell out quickly when it’s in stock, especially at this time of year when people are looking for easy outdoor upgrades. If you’re not already a member, a digital Costco membership gives you access to its rotating range of in-demand garden finds.

That said, you don’t need a membership to get the same look or effect. Amazon has plenty of rain chains that do the same job, helping you guide rainwater more gently while adding a more considered feel to heavy downpours.

I’ve rounded up a few good alternatives below that work well in simple, low-maintenance outdoor spaces.

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If you are watering your lawn at night to protect it from the summer heat, lawn care experts have a clear message for you: stop. While setting your smart sprinklers or hose timers to run after dark feels like a convenient, water-saving hack, drenching your grass overnight is actually a lawn care mistake that invites fungal diseases and pests.

The temptation makes sense. Watering away from the sun’s harsh glare and soaring daytime temperatures prevents evaporation. However, what is easy for your schedule is damaging to your grass, leaving moisture to sit on the blades for hours without sun to dry it.

To help with your summer lawn care, we asked leading turf specialists to break down the exact risks of nighttime watering. Plus, if a busy schedule means you must water after dark (and this tripod sprinkler in the Amazon Prime sale is ideal for the job), our experts share the essential damage-control tips to keep your grass healthy, lush, and disease-free.

Why You Shouldn't Water Grass At Night

Knowing when to water grass is often key to it growing well in periods of intense heat and when there's a lack of rainfall.

When it comes to caring for your lawn in June, whilst a timer on a hose or sprinkler system, such as this highly recommended Orbit model from Amazon, is a great idea for busy homeowners, running it overnight is not what the experts advise.

‘While watering your lawn at night might seem convenient, it's typically not the most recommended practice due to one major drawback: the potential for fungal diseases,’ says Ryan Farley, CEO of Lawn Starter.

‘Watering your lawn at night means the water doesn't have a chance to evaporate quickly due to lower temperatures and the absence of sunlight.

'This can leave your lawn damp for long periods, creating a perfect environment for fungi and other lawn diseases to thrive.’

The pores on the leaves of grass open during daylight to expel moisture. If the lawn is watered at night, this process will not happen and can lead to fungal and bacterial growth, plant rot, and even pest problems.

Besides the threat of encouraging diseases and fungi there are other important health and practical issues to consider too.

Gene Caballero, co founder of GreenPal says: ‘Watering at night can create a breeding ground for mosquitos and other pests.’

How to Prevent Lawn Damage When Watering

Sometimes, with our hectic lifestyles, we simply have no choice as and when to do essential chores and watering the lawn certainly falls into this category.

If you do find yourself in this situation, try to give at least a couple hours of sunlight after watering so the blades of grass can dry before nightfall.

Gene Caballero also warns against getting into the habit of watering late in the day. ‘Watering the lawn at night can be harmful if it is done too often or if the lawn is not properly maintained. If you do choose to water your lawn at night, it is important to follow these precautions.

• Water deeply and less often: This will help to encourage the roots of the grass to grow deeper, which will make the lawn more drought-tolerant.
• Water early in the evening: This ensures that the grass has time to dry before nightfall.
• Avoid watering if the temperature is below 50˚F: Low temperatures and cold water can shock the grass.
• Keep an eye out for signs of pests and disease: Treat the problems promptly if they occur.

Gene also advises, ‘If you are using a sprinkler, make sure to adjust the sprinkler head so that the water is not hitting the leaves of the grass.’

This great value sprinkler from Walmart allows you to customise the flow of water and control coverage, so you can use it in large or small yards.

Keeping the grass in your lawn slightly longer can also help to retain moisture so there is less need to water it as regularly. Longer grass traps dew and provides useful moisture for the roots.

Shop Lawn Watering Essentials

The Best Time to Water

‘For most lawns, watering between 6am and 10am is best,’ says Teri Valenzuela, Senior Content Strategist at lawn care specialists Sunday.

‘Watering at this time allows for the watering to be absorbed properly, and it’s particularly beneficial to deter disease and prevent heat stress during high temperatures.’

This four-hour window works like magic for two reasons: The morning air is still cool, and winds are usually calm. This means the water actually sinks deep into the soil and reaches the roots rather than evaporating instantly into thin air.

In addition, any water left clinging to the grass blades will dry off naturally as the sun rises. This keeps the lawn dry during the humid evening hours when fungi thrive, but well-hydrated before the afternoon scorching begins.

If you try to water during the blazing heat of midday, you can lose up to 30% of your water to evaporation before it ever hits the soil. Worse yet, water droplets sitting on the grass in intense midday sun can act like tiny magnifying glasses, scorching the blades.

Ultimately, if you are unsure whether or not it is a good idea to water your lawn at night, it is always best to consult with a professional to avoid making any serious lawn care mistakes.

Shop Lawn Care Kit

Of course, even if you want to make your lawn green and thick, there’s no need to water it if the grass simply doesn’t need it, especially in these times of limited water resources.

Michael Deaton, turf agronomist at Pennington Seed Inc adds, ‘Whatever watering regimen you choose, look to your lawn for the final word. Well-hydrated grass springs back up when stepped on. If grass stays depressed, it may need water. Curled grass blades or dull, blue-gray color are signs grasses are water stressed.’

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As heatwaves become more frequent across much of the US, it's easy to assume every plant in the yard needs extra water. In reality, many established perennials, native plants, and drought-tolerant shrubs are surprisingly resilient. Others, however, can quickly become stressed during periods of extreme heat, showing signs of wilting, scorched leaves, and reduced flowering, making it important to know exactly when and where to water plants.

The key is knowing which plants are most vulnerable and stepping in before they begin to struggle. From thirsty hydrangeas in the South to sun-baked containers on patios and decks, these are the plants worth checking first during a heatwave, and how to keep them looking their best. If you're wondering which plants to water in June as temperatures climb, these are the varieties to prioritize.

Before reaching for the hose, timing matters, too. The best time to water a garden during a heatwave is early in the morning, when cooler temperatures allow moisture to soak into the soil rather than evaporating quickly. In fact, the best time to water a garden is almost always before the day heats up, giving roots time to absorb moisture and helping plants cope better with soaring temperatures. Evening watering is the next best option during prolonged periods of extreme heat, but avoid watering in the middle of the day when much of that moisture is lost before roots can absorb it.

1. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are often the first plants to show signs of heat stress, and it’s not unusual to see hydrangeas wilting during the hottest part of summer. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, and blooms can start to droop dramatically in peak afternoon heat, making it especially important to water hydrangeas properly during a heatwave.

I like to water deeply at the base rather than relying on quick surface sprays, as a thorough soak every few days does far more for long-term plant health than frequent, shallow watering.

In my own backyard, I also use the Eden Weighted Essential Oscillating Sprinkler from Amazon, which delivers even, consistent coverage when I need to water larger areas without constantly moving the hose.

A layer of mulch around the base is another simple step that really helps lock in moisture and keep roots cooler, especially when temperatures stay high for several days in a row.

My favorite hydrangeas are the Limelight Hydrangea and Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea from Plant Addicts. Both have a romantic, billowy quality that makes a garden feel like a cottage fairytale. Limelight's blooms soften from lime green to blush tones, while Vanilla Strawberry's oversized flower heads gradually deepen from white to raspberry pink.

2. Container Plants

Patio pots and planters can dry out remarkably quickly in high temperatures, particularly when positioned on decks, balconies, driveways, or in south- or west-facing areas. If you have a container garden, it's worth paying particularly close attention during a heatwave, as pots tend to lose moisture far faster than plants growing in the ground.

Watering container plants may mean reaching for the hose once or even twice a day during periods of extreme heat. Check the soil regularly by inserting your finger a couple of inches into the potting mix. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Moving containers into afternoon shade can also make a noticeable difference, helping pots stay cooler and retain moisture for longer.

I've also become a big fan of self-watering solutions for summer containers. The Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pots from Amazon slowly release moisture directly to the roots, which can be a game-changer during prolonged hot spells.

I also love the look of the Square Self-Watering Planter Pot from Target, which combines a clean, modern design with a built-in reservoir that helps keep plants consistently hydrated with much less day-to-day fuss.

3. Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs

Even plant-and-forget shrubs that thrive on neglect and will eventually become drought-tolerant need extra care during their first year. Newly planted trees and shrubs haven't yet developed extensive root systems and can quickly become stressed during prolonged periods of heat.

Rather than watering little and often, give them a slow, deep soak once or twice a week. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil in search of moisture, helping plants establish more quickly and become far more resilient to hot, dry weather in the long term.

4. Vegetable Crops

A vegetable garden can quickly begin to struggle during extreme heat. Tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, peppers, and leafy greens all need consistent moisture to keep producing well, and allowing them to dry out can lead to poor harvests, stressed plants, and even blossom drop.

The best way to water a vegetable garden during a heatwave is early in the morning before temperatures climb. This gives roots time to absorb moisture before the heat of the day and minimizes water loss through evaporation. Mulching around crops will also help keep soil temperatures lower and moisture levels more consistent, allowing plants to cope much better with prolonged periods of hot weather.

If you're heading away for a summer trip, Plant Watering Stakes from Amazon are also worth considering. They slowly release water into the soil and can help keep thirsty crops hydrated while you're on vacation, giving you one less thing to worry about while you're away.

5. Hanging Baskets

Hanging baskets are among the thirstiest parts of any summer garden. Exposed to sun and moving air on all sides, they can dry out in a matter of hours during a heatwave.

To properly water hanging baskets, check them both morning and evening, watering thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes. One of the most common hanging basket mistakes is giving plants a quick splash of water and assuming it's enough. Instead, a deep soak is essential, particularly during periods of prolonged heat.

If you're worried about keeping up with watering, the Self-Watering Hanging Planters from Amazon are a best-seller for good reason. Their built-in reservoir helps regulate moisture levels and reduces how quickly baskets dry out, making them particularly useful during heatwaves or if you're spending time away from home.

6. Roses in Full Bloom

Established roses are fairly resilient, but plants covered in flowers use significant amounts of water. During prolonged hot spells, blooms may fade more quickly and plants can begin to struggle if the soil remains dry.

To water roses correctly, give them a deep soak around the base of the plant and avoid wetting the foliage where possible. One or two thorough waterings each week is usually enough to support healthy flowering during periods of extreme heat. Deep, infrequent watering encourages roots to grow further into the soil, helping roses become more resilient during long, hot summers.

I love the Pink Double Knock Out® Roses from Plant Addicts for how reliable and floriferous they are. However, even these resilient roses appreciate a deep drink during prolonged hot spells to keep those vibrant pink blooms coming all summer long.

7. Hostas

Hostas naturally thrive in cool, moisture-retentive conditions and can quickly suffer when temperatures rise. Their broad leaves are prone to scorching and can become limp if the soil dries out, which is why hosta care becomes especially important during a heatwave.

Water deeply whenever the top few inches of soil begin to feel dry and consider providing temporary shade during the hottest afternoons. A generous layer of mulch will also help retain moisture and keep roots cooler.

One of the most popular types in the US is the Liberty Hosta from Plant Addicts, known for its bold variegated foliage and reliable performance in shaded garden spaces. It’s a great example of a variety that looks its best when given the right moisture and protection from harsh sun.

It's also worth remembering that some of the places to never plant hostas include hot, exposed spots that receive intense afternoon sun or areas with fast-draining soil. In these locations, hostas are far more likely to scorch, wilt, and struggle during prolonged periods of extreme heat.

Shop Garden Watering Essentials

One of the biggest garden watering mistakes during a heatwave is watering little and often. Frequent, shallow watering encourages roots to stay near the surface, where soil dries out fastest, leaving plants more vulnerable when temperatures spike.

Instead, water deeply and less frequently, ideally early in the morning. By prioritizing the plants that genuinely need extra moisture and encouraging deeper root growth, you’ll help your yard stay healthier, more resilient, and looking its best, even during the hottest stretches of summer.

Finally, as temperatures soar, it’s more important than ever to support local wildlife by providing fresh water and food for garden birds. One of my favorite ways to keep an eye on visiting birds is with the Birdfy 2 Smart Bird Feeder with Camera, available on Amazon and currently discounted for Prime Day. It lets you watch, record, and identify the birds that visit your garden, giving you a fascinating insight into when and how they feed during the heatwave.

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By June, your statement wisteria climber is done flowering and focusing on foliage growth. While it's easy to assume it can be left alone for the rest of the year, neglecting wisteria summer care can set up next year's display for disaster.

The truth is wisteria care is year-round, even if its blooms only stick around for a few weeks at a time in May. After blooming, deadheading, light pruning, and tying in new growth is essential to keep this climber in top condition and support the vigorous growth it's putting out. Plus, a little TLC now will help your plant conserve energy for next spring's blooms.

So while there isn't anything major to do this month, there are still some key tasks to tick off. Here, with insights from a professional gardener, I talk through what to do with a wisteria in June – you'll want to have a reliable pair of pruning shears to hand, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

Wisteria has iconic purple (this 'Blue Moon' wisteria from Plant Addicts is a beautiful native choice), pink, and white raceme clusters that typically come out for around two to three weeks in spring. Once they start to fade, they lose their color and shrivel up.

You can tidy up its appearance by deadheading your wisteria to remove the spent blooms.

Not only does this give it a cleaner look, it also helps redirect the plant's energy from seed production to new growth, conserving energy for another showy display next spring.

You should do this by taking sharp pruning tools and cutting back to the first leaf node below the spent flower. If your wisteria is towering, you might find these long-handled Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon make it easier to reach.

2. Trim Whippy Shoots

Summer marks an important time for pruning your wisteria, as it has long, straggly green shoots from spring which need taming.

'In June, the focus should be on managing new herbaceous growth (known as whips) and keeping it neatly contained within the canopy you’re aiming to maintain,' says Dave Smith, Director of Estate Gardens and Grounds at The Inn at Little Washington.

You should trim this unwanted vegetative growth with clean and sharp shears (because it will be soft, you can use these Felco F2 bypass pruners from Lowe's), cutting back to about five or six leaves.

As well as redirecting the plant's energy, this helps improve airflow and sunlight exposure to the base of the stems. This allows the wood ripen in preparation for prolific flowering next year.

3. Tie In New Growth

With wisteria being a climber, many of us choose to grow it up a trellis (you can even use this Wayfair planter box trellis for a smaller wisteria variety) or on wire up the side of a wall. As new growth emerges in the spring and summer, it's important to train and tie in wisteria shoots.

This new growth is different to the long, whippy, tangled growth that needs pruning back. Instead, this is flexible new growth you want to form the plant's structure.

Generally speaking, this is the growth appearing in the right spot and growing in the right direction along your plant support.

'Summer care for wisteria is largely about control and structure, ensuring the plant doesn’t become overly vigorous or unruly,' Dave describes.

You want to use jute twine (like this from Lowe's) or soft ties (like this on Amazon) to create a figure-of-eight loop that provides space between the shoots and the support so it can thicken without becoming damaged.

It's popular to train wisterias in a fan shape, keeping foliage growth neat and providing more coverage of blooms by distributing the plant's energy more evenly.

What to Shop

As summer temperatures arrive, don't forget to also water your wisteria deeply to prevent heat stress and keep it hydrated. This is especially important if you're growing your wisteria in a pot, which will dry out much more quickly than ground-planted wisteria.

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National Pollinator Week (June 22 - 28) is here, shining the spotlight on the often unsung heroes of our backyards who help keep our plants and flowers blooming all summer long.

All too often it's the bees and the butterflies who get all the attention. And while they do a lot of the heavy lifting, our yards are alive with lots of other unsung heroes who are, albeit less celebrated, just as vital when it comes to pollination, quietly underpinning our food production and ensuring our yards are rich and biodiverse.

From night‑flying mammals to insects more often portrayed as pests, I've uncovered seven unexpected pollinators, which can be found in our yards. I'll explore how our yards can help play a crucial role in their survival and I'll share what you can do to help make sure your yard keeps on attracting them all year round. One idea to get you started is to add these beautiful ceramic bee cups from Amazon, to provide pollinators with water in the heat of summer.

Hoverflies

While they might often get mistaken for wasps or small bees, hoverflies are amongst some of the most efficient pollinators found in our yards.

They are drawn to open, flat flowers such as daisies, yarrow, fennel and alyssum, where nectar and pollen are easy to access. Their larvae feed on aphids, making them an extra valuable pollinator to have in your yard.

To encourage them, plant simple, nectar‑rich flowers in clusters. These sweet alyssum seeds available from Amazon are easily sown and not only provide great ground cover but are also a magnate for pollinators, including hoverflies.

The key is also to avoid using pesticides, and in fall through into winter leave some areas of your yard undisturbed where larvae can overwinter.

Hoverflies would also benefit from a bee watering station like this glass one from Amazon, providing vital water in the summer heat.

Beetles

This may come as a surprise to you but the beetle is in fact an ancient and vital pollinator, who unlike the bee is more interested in pollen than nectar.

The unassuming beetle will transfer pollen between fragrant plants with the pollen grains sticking to their coarse hairs and legs as then moves from plant to plant, more often than not fragrant plants, rich in pollen.

Beetles love plants which boast strong fruity, spicy or fermented scents and that are also open, flat or bowl shaped.

A good idea is to look at planting magnolias, or water lilies like these bold and beautiful plants available to buy from Amazon which will also add a splash of color to your pond.

Yards that that are also home to native shrubs and trees, along with leaf litter and decaying wood will help provide much needed shelter so beetles can thrive.

Moths

When the sun goes down and the butterflies retire for the day, its the turn of the moth to take over and carry out their pollinating duties on the night shift.

Many species of moths are attracted to pale, strongly scented, night‑blooming flowers such as evening primrose or honeysuckle.

Moths are instrumental to both of these plants which open or release scent after dusk. Star jasmine is also a great addition to your yard to consider, like this highly scented star jasmine from Nature Hills.

To help moths thrive it is also important to reduce outdoor lighting and again plant scented native species. This will ensure your yard is a welcoming destination for moths in the evening.

Wasps

Misunderstood but essential, wasps are commonly viewed as an aggressive pest. However the truth is there are many wasps species which regularly visit flowers and transfer pollen as they feed, making them another unexpected pollinator that we need to consider as a vital cog in the wheel when it comes to creating a rich ecosystem in our yards.

Wasps are part drawn to small, late‑season flowers such as ivy, which will provide nectar when other food sources are scarce.

By allowing plants to flower later in the year and avoiding unnecessary nest removal, you can really help to boost wasp populations and help the wider ecosystem too.

Ants

Although ants might not be the most efficient pollinators, they do play a role, particularly for low‑growing plants. and shouldn't be completely written off. As ants move between ground‑level flowers in search of nectar or honeydew, pollen is transferred in the process.

Chemical ant controls disrupt this contribution, so it is really important to avoid using chemical deterrents in your yard. Yards with ground‑covering flowers and a more natural structure are more supportive of ants and the their role in pollinating. Think chamomile and thyme planted in between the cracks of pavers and paths.

Thyme is a great ground cover and thrives in poorer soils too, plus there are so many different varieties to choose from like this variety called Wooly Thyme available to buy from Nature Hills, which puts on a beautiful showy pink flower in late spring into the summer.

Bats

In warmer regions of the southern United States, bats are among one of the most important nocturnal pollinators, pollinating after dark.

Bats rely on large, pale, night‑blooming flowers such as agave, yucca and certain cacti, many of which have actually evolved over time specifically for bat pollination. They are also a great way to add structure and character to your garden and thrive in dry warm conditions.

This yucca which you can buy from Nature Hills would be ideal to plant. AS well as providing a water station, consider adding a bat house to provide a safe shelter for bats that visit you yard like this one from Amazon. These steps will really help to support bat conservation and maintain these vital populations.

Birds

While hummingbirds are the most famous of the avian pollinators, other bird species including White - Winged Doves, Orioles and Finches also move pollen as they feed.

They are attracted to robust, nectar‑rich flowers such as salvias , a magnet for a wide range of pollinators, and also trumpet vine. While birds commonly feast on insects they often supplement insects with nectar, making them an unassuming but nevertheless important pollinator in our yards,

If you are looking to create a paradise for your feathered friends, keep pesticides out of your yard. A really useful addition would be a bird bath like this stylish metal one, available to buy from Amazon.

Ensuring there is a clean water supply in your garden will attract birds and help them to play their part in the pollination process.

Often misunderstood or overlooked, together these pollinators form an essential hidden workforce that supports ecosystems and food systems alike.

By planting a diverse mix of flowers, providing water sources and crucially reducing chemicals while also allowing our yards to become a little less tidy, these moves can make a huge impact.

This National Pollinator Week, it's clear that bees are not the only pollinator. We need to embrace and support the wide range of pollinators to ensure our yards are kept alive with life and vibrancy.

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Trees are among the most valuable plants we can grow, adding beauty, privacy, shade and wildlife interest to our yards. But some species can cause far more problems than they're worth.

Having worked as a professional gardener for many years, I've seen firsthand the damage that unsuitable trees can inflict. From invasive roots and relentless suckering to excessive self-seeding and toxic plant parts, certain trees can quickly become a headache in a home garden, and I now have a concise list of plants I’ll never grow again.

Guided by Beth Chatto's famous mantra, 'right plant, right place', these experiences have led me to a shortlist of five trees I'd never plant in a yard again, and the better alternatives I'd grow instead (one of which is the beautiful Arbequina Olive Tree, from Fast Growing Trees, which is my top recommendation for any yard).

Cherry Laurel

Grown for its rapid growth and dense evergreen foliage, the cherry laurel, Prunus laurocerasus, is often valued for its ability to provide effective garden screening and privacy. Producing up to 3 feet of new growth each year, this large, fast-growing shrub or small tree can reach 30 feet tall and wide.

Considered an invasive in parts of the Pacific Northwest, and a hedge to avoid due to its potential to shade over and displace other plants.

With memories of arduously hand-pruning great lengths of laurel hedging so as not to leave an untidy finish at a previous garden I managed, it is certainly a tree I would never plant again.

A much more manageable tree is the American holly, or Ilex opaca. This is the best deal I've ever seen on American holly, at Fast Growing Trees.

Suitable for growing down to USDA zone 5, this slow-growing evergreen tree generally reaches a final height of 30 feet and forms an attractive pyramidal shape.

Another option is the Densa Inkberry, from Plant Addicts, which is a slow-growing, dense evergreen and is very well suited as a hedge plant.

Black Walnut

Reaching a maximum height of around 100 feet, the black walnut tree, Juglans nigra, is a prized tree, not only for its stature and fruits, but also for its hardwood. Another North American native, a mature Juglans nigra can produce an impressive black walnut harvest in late September or October.

Undoubtedly beautiful, this vigorous and large tree is not without its problems. Firstly, to keep it productive and maintain its shape, regular walnut tree pruning is required. Bleeding sap when cut, the black walnut tree is best pruned in late winter, when the tree is dormant.

Secondly, and more unusually, the black walnut tree produces a chemical called juglone, which is toxic to many plants. Existing in the tree's foliage, fruits and roots, juglone can extend beyond the tree’s canopy and inhibit growth in other plants that are sensitive to it.

Having inherited a black walnut tree growing next to a kitchen garden, I admired it greatly for being a beautiful specimen, but found planting around it very limiting due to the toxic juglone it emitted.

With members of the nightshade family and fruits, especially apple trees, being some of the most susceptible to juglone, what could be grown in the vegetable garden was hugely restricted.

A flowering cherry tree with its spring blossom and fall foliage color could be a great alternative. This Kwanzan flowering cherry available at Nature Hills is currently 20% off and a beautiful specimen.

Suited to USDA zones 5-8 and reaching a maximum of 8 to 50 feet tall, there is a space to grow one in even the smallest of gardens.

You can also find the more compact Snow Fountains® Weeping Cherry Tree at Fast Growing Trees, which would be perfect for a front yard or any small backyard.

What to Shop

Staghorn sumac

A large shrub or small tree, staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is valued for its fern-like foliage and spectacular fall color. Growing up to 25 feet tall, this North American native thrives in open woodlands and along roadsides, where it spreads readily to form colonies.

Its crimson autumn display, wildlife value and ability to stabilize slopes have made it a popular choice for naturalistic and wildlife-friendly gardens.

However, its vigorous suckering habit can quickly become problematic. New shoots often emerge several feet from the parent plant, creating dense thickets that are difficult to control.

Considered invasive in some states, unmanaged staghorn sumac can outcompete and shade out native plants as it expands. Having managed a large private garden with an established specimen, I can attest to just how freely it suckers and how quickly new growth can appear well beyond its original planting site.

Instead, an often understated tree is the Serviceberry or Amelanchier. The Autumn Brilliance serviceberry is available at Plant Addicts.

Grown for its spring blossom and vibrant fall display, depending on the species, they can grow up to 30 feet tall and are generally suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9.

Another beautiful option for winter interest is the Berry Heavy® Gold Winterberry from Nature Hills. It is a native American deciduous holly and produces the largest golden-yellow berries of any winterberry holly for spectacular color.

Weeping Willow

A fast-growing tree and a full and dense canopy make the weeping willow a great shade tree for sitting under and a great choice for screening an unwanted view.

A deciduous tree, with a maximum height and spread of around 50 feet, means that the weeping willow is generally unsuitable for a domestic backyard. That, combined with its rapid growth and extensive moisture-seeking root system, which can damage underground drain and sewer pipes, makes it a tree to avoid planting close to a house.

A weeping willow growing alongside a riverbank in one of the gardens I used to work at was one of our favorite spots for a break or rest out of the midday sun. However, considering the size it matured into and the maintenance it needed to clear its fallen leaves, branches and twigs, I would not be in a hurry to plant one.

As an alternative, the native Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis, is illuminated by its pink blooms in early spring and before its green heart-shaped foliage emerges. You can find spectacular Eastern redbud tree at Fast Growing Trees.

Suitable for growing in zones 4-9, it grows to a maximum height of 30 feet, but can be easily managed.

More Beautiful Tree Alternatives

English Oak

Growing up to 130 feet tall and 80 feet wide, English oak (Quercus robur) is a magnificent tree. Supporting hundreds of wildlife species, absorbing significant amounts of carbon dioxide and casting generous shade, it is one of the most valuable native trees you can grow.

However, grown from a mere acorn, English oaks eventually require far more space than most residential yards can provide. For this reason alone, they are trees that should never be planted in a small yard..

Their extensive root systems can also create problems over time, with the potential to disrupt sidewalks, driveways and even building foundations if planted too close. In addition, mature oaks require ongoing maintenance, including periodic pruning to remove damaged branches and promote tree health, while fallen leaves, acorns and twigs can create a considerable cleanup job each fall.

There is no doubt that English oaks are exceptional trees when given the space they need to thrive. In the right setting, they can be a spectacular long-term investment, but they are often too large and demanding for the average yard.

For a front or backyard, a kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa, with its spring flowers, fall color and height up to 30 feet tall, makes for a wiser choice.

Suitable for growing in zones 5 to 9, this Kousa Dogwood Tree is available from Plant Addicts.

Choosing and planting a tree is a big decision that can benefit generations to come. But choosing the wrong tree might, as you have just read, have unfortunate consequences down the line. For some other more suitable small tree choices, here are the best trees to plant close to a house.

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Sunflowers are one of my favorite summer blooms. My plants start to fill the garden towards the end of June and the sunny splashes of yellow are always a welcome sight. While sunflowers are easy to grow there are a few jobs to keep on top of so the blooms continue for as long as possible.

As I love to pick sunflowers for the house I tend to lean more towards the many cultivars with shorter stems and a branching habit so I get multiple flowers from one plant. These make great cut flowers. The giant varieties with just one huge flower are always fun to grow too. I leave a few in situ for the birds to snack on the seeds, and they are always well received.

If you want to find out how to grow sunflowers the good news is these gorgeous blooms need very little attention in June to thrive, even in the relentless heat of summer. Here are six things to do to keep those flowers coming. (And you can still sow sunflower seeds, from this gorgeous Amazon mix, to flower by August!)

1. Keep Watering Your Sunflowers Especially In A Heatwave

My sunflower patch grows super fast in June and puts on inches at an amazing rate. This means any newly sunflower plants need plenty of water and they will suffer if allowed to dry out.

Once my plants are established their water needs ease up a little and they even tolerate some drought. As soon as the flowers open this is my cue to give them deep, regular watering if I want them to look their best.

Keep up a watering routine in hot weather, particularly if you're growing sunflowers in pots. Aim the water at the base of the plant rather than overhead to get moisture down to the root system. I love this 1 gallon green metal watering can from Amazon, which when not in use looks great on the patio.

Overhead watering can spread diseases and wets foliage without properly soaking the root system.

If you're away for the night, plant watering globes, like these beautiful glass ones from Amazon, are really useful. They maintain a constant, slow release of water over time, so it takes the worry out of not watering for a day or two in hot weather.

2. Feed Your Sunflowers To Get The Best Results

Before planting my sunflowers this year I remembered to add plenty of well-rotted manure to the bottom of the hole – I usually forget. Alternatively you can also use garden compost. Although sunflowers don't generally need fertilizer it's a good idea to do this to get them off to the best start.

If your soil is very poor you can use a slow-release granular fertilizer such as Organic Plant Magic available from Amazon to encourage flowering. Sunflower plants will also benefit from mulching around the roots with extra compost. Treat the leaves to a seaweed spray to give them a boost too.

While young sunflower plants are attractive to slugs and snails the good news is as they grow bigger they generally become less troubled by pests and disease. You may spot aphids on your sunflowers but as the plants grow it becomes less of an issue as they prefer young foliage.

3. Stake Sunflower Plants With Sturdy Supports

As your sunflowers grow bigger they will need some kind of support. Both giant single stem and multi-branching varieties of sunflower will benefit from staking, as they won’t stay upright for long unless you give them some help. I sometimes use a wire trellis for the multi-branching sunflower varieties as it's an easy way to keep them in check.

Tie in plants against sturdy stakes as they grow, remembering to check regularly to see if they need extra ties as they grow taller, as all it takes is one high wind to bring them down if they don't have the necessary support in place.

Start off with something like these heavy-duty single stem support stakes from Wayfair, which are ideal for tall or top-heavy plants like sunflowers. As plants grow taller switch to a longer stake such as these stylish metal plant supports, also from Wayfair, which add a design element to your planting too.

4. Carry Out Routine Deadheading To Keep Things Looking Fresh

Once sunflower blooms start to fade and the foliage dries up and shrivels around the base it can spoil the look of your flower display. But the good news is it's easy to tidy things up. The trick is to keep on top of deadheading with some handy shears like these Fiskars Plant Snips available from Target, which allow you to make precise cuts.

Regular deadheading encourages the growth of new flowers and this is one of the most important routine jobs to carry out on sunflowers in June. It's a surefire way to keep sunflowers blooming.

The goal is to cut off any part of the flower that is dead. You can also tidy up any faded foliage while you're doing it. Follow the stem back until you hit a place where it branches.

There is a good chance you will get more flowers if you do this to cut-and-come again varieties of sunflowers.

5. Keep Picking Flowers To Keep Blooms Coming

As well as deadheading it's important to start harvesting sunflowers in June. The formula is simple: the more you pick the flowers the more flowers you will get. The prolific flowering types that I like produce lots of smaller flowers that will fill vases for months, as cutting the central bloom sends a signal to the plant to send out new stems from the side.

Some of my favorite varieties for arranging indoors include 'Summer Nights' available here from Nature Hills,, which has deep burgundy stems and brilliant golden yellow blooms all summer long, and 'Strawberry Blonde', an unusual variety available here from Burpee, a combination of subtle lemon and rose-pink flowers surrounding a dark disc.

Pick the flowers just as they're beginning to open. It's a good idea to do this first thing in the morning when it's still cool. Alternatively cut stems in the evening once the heat has gone out of the day.

Condition the flower stems in a bucket of cool water for a couple of hours before transferring them to a vase. When arranging the sunflowers first remove any foliage that will sit below the waterline to avoid a build up of plant debris in the water. Trim stems and change the water every couple of days to keep things fresh.

6. Save Some Seeds For The Birds (And Next Year)

If you like the idea of saving some of your own seeds to grow next year leave one or two flowers in place to fade and allow the seeds to mature instead of deadheading them. Collecting seeds in this way means they will germinate and grow much better the following year.

Once the seeds have developed and are ready simply cut off the heads on a dry day then store them away in a brown bag where the seeds will be shed naturally so they are ready for sowing next year.

It's also a great way to provide a treat for the birds as part of your wildlife garden ideas. If you don’t want to collect any seeds to store you can always leave the seed head in place as a natural bird feeder in your garden.

That's my easy formula to keep sunflowers in June looking their best. Now find out what your rambling rose needs in June, as well as what to do with clematis in June to keep these other prolific garden flowerers looking good too.

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Salvias are among the hardest-working perennials in a summer garden, producing spikes of vivid blooms that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds for months on end. While these pollinator-friendly favorites are remarkably low maintenance, a little attention in June can make the difference between a brief flowering display and continuous color that lasts right through summer and into fall.

By mid-June, many salvia types are finishing their first major flush of blooms. Whether you grow salvia in sunny borders, pollinator gardens, or patio containers, now is the time to give plants a little care. A few simple tasks, including deadheading and light pruning, will encourage fresh growth and help keep salvias flowering repeatedly for the rest of the season.

In my own garden, I grow Pink Profusion Salvia, which I love for its subtle fragrance and rich, deep pink blooms. I also have my eye on the ‘Back to the Fuchsia’ Salvia – it’s a fantastic option if you’re after a real burst of vibrant color and long-lasting flowers. Both are available from Plant Addicts.

1. Deadhead Spent Flower Spikes

The most important job for salvias in June is deadheading. As the earliest flowers begin to fade, cut the spent flower stems back to the first set of healthy leaves or to a pair of developing side shoots. Deadheading salvia is one of the simplest ways to extend the flowering season, as removing old blooms prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and instead encourages it to produce fresh flower spikes.

Many popular salvias, particularly ornamental varieties, will reward you with a second and even third flush of flowers if you keep up with deadheading throughout the season. Check your plants every week or so and promptly remove any fading stems to keep plants looking tidy and blooming freely.

A pair of sharp, clean pruners will make the job much easier. The PrunePro Pruning Shears Gardening Scissors Set from Amazon features precision micro-tip blades that are ideal for snipping spent salvia flower spikes without damaging surrounding buds, making it a handy tool for deadheading salvia throughout the summer.

2. Give Plants a Light Trim

While the previous step is all about deadheading individual spent blooms, a light trim can also help refresh salvias that are starting to look a little untidy after their first flush of flowers. Cutting back up to one-third of the flowering stems encourages fresh growth from the base and helps plants maintain a compact, bushy shape.

To prune salvia, I use the Fiskars 6-Inch Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems to tackle this job, as the narrow blades make it easy to tidy up plants without causing too much of a stir.

This approach is especially useful for herbaceous salvias, which can become leggy by midsummer if left entirely to their own devices. Just avoid cutting into old, woody growth, particularly on shrubby salvias, as these stems can be slow to regenerate.

3. Water Deeply During Dry Spells

Although established salvias are generally drought-tolerant, June can bring periods of heat that place newly planted specimens under stress. If rainfall has been scarce, water deeply once or twice a week rather than giving plants frequent shallow drinks. This approach is especially important when watering plants in a heatwave, as deep soaking encourages roots to grow further into the soil, creating stronger, more resilient plants that are better able to cope with prolonged hot weather later in the season.

Try to water early in the morning so moisture has time to reach the roots before temperatures rise and the foliage can dry during the day. If you're watering by hand, the best-selling AUTOMAN Garden Hose Nozzle from Amazon is a handy option, with multiple spray settings that make it easy to give newly planted salvias a slow, deep soak during hot spells.

4. Feed Lightly to Encourage Repeat Blooms

Salvias are not particularly hungry plants, but a light application of balanced liquid fertilizer in June can support continuous flowering. If you're wondering how to fertilize salvias, the key is to feed lightly and avoid overdoing it. High-nitrogen fertilizers tend to encourage lush, leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so opt for a balanced feed or one formulated for flowering plants and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For most salvias, one light feeding after deadheading the first flush of blooms is often enough to keep plants performing strongly through the rest of the summer. Salvias also benefit from a potassium-rich tomato feed, which encourages more flowers rather than excess foliage. Products such as Miracle-Gro Shake 'N Feed All Purpose Plant Food from Amazon and Burpee 8 lbs. Organic Dry Fertilizer Tomato from The Home Depot are both good options for supporting repeat blooms and keeping plants flowering freely through the season.

5. Keep an Eye on Overcrowding

June is also a good time to take stock of the plants growing around your salvias. These sun-loving perennials thrive in open, airy positions, but neighboring plants can quickly begin to crowd them out as garden borders fill in.

If foliage is becoming congested, gently cut back nearby plants or remove any weeds competing for light, moisture, and nutrients. Giving salvias a little extra breathing room not only helps them flower more freely but also improves air circulation around the plants, reducing the risk of fungal issues during periods of heat and humidity.

The June Salvia Mistake to Avoid

The biggest mistake gardeners make with salvias in June is leaving spent flowers in place. It’s easy to let them go while the plant still looks good, but once flower spikes start setting seed, blooming often begins to slow down.

A few minutes spent deadheading salvia each week can make a real difference, encouraging wave after wave of fresh flowers and keeping these pollinator-friendly plants performing at their best through summer. With regular deadheading, a light trim, and the occasional watering during dry spells, salvias will keep producing colourful blooms well into late summer and, in many gardens, right up until the first frosts.

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There's something undeniably Nancy Meyers about a wooden white raised garden bed. It instantly conjures images of a dreamy kitchen garden brimming with fragrant herbs, climbing flowers, and baskets of sun-ripened tomatoes just steps from the back door.

If you're searching for raised bed garden ideas that feel both practical and beautiful, Costco's latest gardening find is worth a look. The retailer is now selling the Vita Garden Bed with Fencing, a charming white raised planter framed by foldable fence panels that help keep curious critters at bay while maintaining an effortlessly elegant, cottage-inspired look. I don't own this one myself, but after spotting it, I definitely want it.

For a similar alternative, I have the Elevated Raised Garden Bed with Wheels from Amazon, and I absolutely love it. I bought it to help recreate that classic Nancy Meyers aesthetic in my own garden, and its clean white finish gives it the same charming, kitchen garden feel.

It Looks More Like Garden Furniture Than a Vegetable Bed

The enclosed design makes this planter especially practical for smaller yards, patios, and suburban gardens where rabbits, squirrels, and even neighborhood pets can make quick work of tender seedlings. The fence panels feature slide latches and fold down for easy access from every side, so you don't have to sacrifice convenience for protection.

What I particularly like about raised beds is how well they work for small spaces and amateur gardeners. They instantly create a dedicated growing area, making the whole process feel more approachable and less overwhelming. Instead of trying to amend poor soil or carve out a large section of lawn, you can fill a raised bed with nutrient-rich compost and start planting.

Many of the plants that grow better in raised beds are also some of the most popular choices for home gardeners. You can grow kitchen staples like lettuce, kale, spinach, tomatoes, peppers, and strawberries, all of which grow in a raised bed with ease thanks to the improved drainage and fertile soil. You can also create a cutting garden filled with zinnias, cosmos, and dahlias. Herbs such as basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme also thrive in raised beds, keeping fresh ingredients within easy reach of the kitchen.

The white fencing gives this planter an elevated feel, too. Many raised beds are purely functional, but this one has a timeless cottage garden look that wouldn't feel out of place in a traditional English garden or the sun-soaked backyard of a Nancy Meyers movie.

A Practical Design That Makes Gardening Easier

Raised beds aren't just attractive; they come with plenty of practical benefits. Because the soil warms up faster in spring and drains more effectively, many plants establish themselves more quickly and are less likely to suffer from waterlogged roots. The contained growing area also makes it easier to control weeds and monitor soil quality, which can take some of the guesswork out of container gardening for beginners.

The bed itself sits at a comfortable working height, meaning less bending and kneeling while planting, watering, and harvesting. It's made from food-grade, BPA- and phthalate-free vinyl, making it suitable for growing everything from leafy greens and herbs to flowers and deep-rooted vegetables.

One of the most thoughtful features is the inclusion of two central compost baskets. Gardeners can add kitchen scraps directly into the bed, where they gradually decompose and enrich the soil. It's a simple but clever addition that combines raised-bed gardening with composting, helping to reduce household waste while naturally feeding your plants.

If you've been looking for a way to start growing vegetables in a compact outdoor space without compromising on aesthetics, Costco's Vita Garden Bed with Fencing may be one of the prettiest raised beds to land this season. It delivers all the romance of a kitchen garden, with the added reassurance that your herbs, lettuce, and strawberries stand a much better chance against hungry garden visitors.

Shop Alternative Raised Bed Planters

Costco's raised garden planter is one of those seasonal finds that rarely stay in stock for long. When it does return, it tends to sell out quickly, particularly at this time of year when gardeners are looking to maximize their growing space. If you're not already a member, a digital Costco membership gives you access to its ever-changing lineup of sought-after garden buys.

That said, you don't need a Costco membership to create the same elevated look. Amazon has plenty of raised garden beds that combine practicality with style, from compact options for patios and small yards to larger statement planters that can anchor an entire kitchen garden.

I’ve hand-picked a few well-chosen alternatives below that work particularly well in stylish, easy-to-maintain outdoor spaces.

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If you're a keen veg grower or new to the joys of home-grown produce, June can be a surprising month in the kitchen garden. The temperate months of spring – and with them all that lush, green growth full of hope – can suddenly disappear and you can be left with a plot that looks lacklustre and distinctly lacking in vigor.

This abrupt change in pace is so common it has a name: the 'early summer stall'. There are a number of reasons this happens, and the good news is there are solutions to them all. The five principal reasons vegetables stop thriving in June are changing temperatures, lack of water, nutrient imbalances, heat stress and the natural decline in cool-season crops. Any one of these (although it's often a combination) can cause growth to stall and veg plants to struggle.

To breathe new life back into your vegetable patch, I've dug deep into the five issues affecting your crops in midsummer to find the simplest, most reliable remedies. Your kitchen garden will soon be back to its burgeoning best, healthy and productive until fall or even beyond. And then you can turn your thoughts to what to plant in June.

Changing Temperatures

With June temperatures ranging from lows of around 60°F (16°C) in the Northeast of the US to 100°F (38°C) in the Southwest, and 54°F (12°C) to 86°F (30°C) in the UK, with even the occasional frost not unheard of, the extremes are a whole lot greater than 'gentle June' may suggest. It's no surprise then that your carefully tended vegetable plants could struggle to adjust.

When plants experience dramatic changes in temperature, it causes severe stress. Sudden periods of cold can damage plant tissues, cause yellowing of the leaves and result in stunted growth. Meanwhile, heat spikes lead to rapid water loss, which risks your plants going to seed, or 'bolting'. These sudden changes in temperature are more common in US zones where two different climates meet, and in hilly areas or deep valleys.

To avoid damage from cold temperatures, always keep some horticultural fleece handy (try these fleece jackets from Lowes). Check nighttime temperatures daily and throw fleece over vulnerable crops before nightfall. Cloches (whether DIY cloche ideas or store bought), veg row covers and coldframes are also super handy moveable options to minimise stress caused by extreme, sudden cold snaps.

Shop plant protection domes at Amazon.

Buy a portable mini greenhouse coldframe at Home Depot.

Lack of Water

June rainfall across the USA can vary drastically, but generally averages 3-6in (80-144mm) overall, with parts of the Midwest and Central Plains often dealing with dry spells and flash droughts. In the UK, summers are increasingly unpredictable, with a volatile mixture of showers, often very hot sunshine and an average monthly rainfall of just 2-3in (50-80mm). It's one of the driest months of the summer.

How best to water plants in June? An irrigation system, like this soaker hose from Amazon, set on a timer is a huge help if rainfall is unpredictable, failing that make watering part of your early morning routine. The best time to water the garden in summer is before 9am, when the sun is often hot enough to significantly affect water lost through evaporation.

Remember always to direct water to the base of your plants, using the spout rather than the sprinkler attachment of your watering can. Any crops growing in pots will need careful attention if they're not to dry out.

A generous 2-3 in mulch of organic matter (ideally applied after a good soak) will help to lock in moisture and prevent water loss through evaporation. It will also help to lock in nutrients, in fact adding goodness to the soil as it breaks down and decomposes.

Straw, compost, manure and grass clippings are some of the most effective and nutritious organic mulches to use in a veg garden. Avoid bark chippings as they can remove nitrogen from the soil as they decay: annuals such as veg plants need plenty of nitrogen to grow strongly.

Shop garden straw at Lowes.

Nutrient Imbalance

When you first plant veg in spring, with decent rainfall and seasonal sunshine, chances are they'll start to grow quickly. After a couple of months, if your soil is poor or presenting challenges, that will start to show in the health of your plants.

They're bigger, putting on more vegetative and root growth, and likely starting to develop fruit, so their needs are more complex. Overfeeding your plants is also a possible pitfall. Here's how to choose the best fertilizers for your veg garden.

Lack of nitrogen
If older plant leaves are yellowing or turning pale, chances are they're in need of a nitrogen boost. Use a nitrogen-rich feed such as nettle tea or other high-nitrogen fertilizer, or work in some well-rotted manure to boost levels and restore nitrogen to your soil.

Lack of phosphorus
Spotted a purple or reddish tint to young growth? Is it perhaps in addition to poor flowering and slow root growth? Then you may need to add phosphous to your soil. This is simply done with a sprinkling of bone meal or rock phosphate.

Lack of potassium
If the edges of leaves are browning or yellowing, or your harvest is poor quality, potassium could be the issue. You can fix this with a dose of wood ash, seaweed feed, or comfrey tea.

Lack of calcium
Blossom-end rot on your tomatoes and zucchini or tip burn on your lettuce? Then your soil's probably in need of a calcium boost. Fork in some crushed eggshells, garden lime or gypsum to rectify this deficiency.

Too many nutrients!
If you've gone a little OTT with synthetic fertilizers, it can have a detrimental effect on your young veg plants, burning their roots and creating an overly salty soil environment that actually draws moisture out of your plants. It's one of the most common fertilizing mistakes and signs include crisp, brown leaf margins, lush growth without any sign of fruit and yellowing leaves that can wither and drop.

Fix this by removing the top inch of soil and replacing with fresh compost (if it's slow-release granules or top-dressing that's the cause), or soaking your veg beds thoroughly and deeply to wash away excess fertilizer from the roots.

Shop plant food and fertilizer at Target.

Heat Stress

Across the US and in the UK too June isn't too early for vegetables to start showing heat stress, which tends to happen when the mercury hits around 85°F (30°C). When vegetable plants are stressed from too much heat, it can affect not only their growth but also pollination.

Signs your plants are suffering from heat stress include curling tomato and pepper leaves (usually upwards) in a bid to reduce water loss, tall 'bolting' stems emerging from lettuces, blossom drop and poor fruit set.

Deep, targeted watering will help (in the early morning), as will setting up shade sources. These can include shade cloths, which will lower temperatures around plants, reduce leaf scorch and stop plants like peppers and tomatoes stalling). 30-50% shade cloth is best for sun-lovers like tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, as well as young seedlings; 70%, like this one from Ace Hardware is best for other veg. But an old sheet is better than nothing at all!

Less costly is moving tougher, more heat-resistant containers in place to provide portable shade. Think large pots of geraniums, rosemary, lavender and salvias. Or try pots of sunflowers to shield seedlings from sunlight. Shift these to the south/southwest side of your veg beds (raise them up on bricks if you can) and you'll add an element of shade when the sun's at its hottest – to help with this try wheel plant caddies like these from Lowes.

For taller crops, it can be useful to place a large upturned pot on a stake to act as a parasol over individual plant. Remember too that moving container-grown veg into more shaded spots in the backyard. will help to reduce the effects of heat stress.

You can improve airflow around plants with some strategic June pruning. Removing the lower leaves from tomato plants will let in air and thinning out overcrowded foliage and crossing branches provides natural ventilation to help plants breeze through a heatwave.

Meanwhile, to help pollination, add in a few pollinator-friendly flowers to your veg plot. French marigolds (Tagetes), cosmos, zinnias and lavender are some of the best plants for pollinators.

One last tip: avoid fertilizing when the weather is very hot, as it will trigger a sudden onset of tender growth, which is difficult for the plant to sustain when temperatures are especially high.

Shop pollinator favorites at Burpee.

Decline in Cool-Season Crops

There are certain crops that just won't thrive in warm weather, whatever you do to combat it. And that's because they're simply not built to grow and fruit in high temperatures. So if your radishes have turned woody and won't germinate, fret not: their time has passed, but there's always next spring.

This is also partly true of other root veg including carrots, turnips and beetroot, which are often best sown early and harvested in early summer. They're what's known as cool-season crops, which need to be sown/planted early in the year for early harvests, before the weather turns scorching.

These crops, as well as salad leaves and alliums will naturally begin to decline from now until late summer, but to keep roots from turning woody continue with your deep watering, keep those salads shaded and mulch away to lock in moisture.

June is often a time when gardeners easily relax and think the garden will take care of itself. But it pays to be vigilant and aware of the challenges of vegetable growing in June, and bear watering and heat spikes in mind.

As you can see, there are plenty of low-effort ways to protect your veg crops and keep them thriving through early summer. Better still, your efforts now will pay dividends for the rest of the summer and into autumn as crops mature and harvests begin in earnest.

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Every backyard needs some form of storage. For holding patio decor in the off-season, stashing yard tools when hosting parties, or even simply for keeping your outdoor space organized, backyard storage ideas are essential.

But here's the caveat – outdoor storage is tracking a few decades behind indoor storage when it comes to designs that balance form and function. Finding affordable, easy-to-install, durable buys that also look nice is not always simple. However, on my hunt for some chic, affordable storage for my small patio, I came across an outlier that ticks all the boxes. The Wayfair Wood Storage Shed – an outdoor storage structure that manages to blend functional design with refined style for less than $200.

Not plastic, not metal – this storage shed is made from solid fir wood, which is my personal favorite material for outdoor furniture because of its natural look. It won't appear like an eyesore among the greenery in your backyard – instead, this shed will look like it truly belongs in an outdoor environment. And even if your patio isn't sprawling with plants, trees, or bushes, this shed can yield a grounding, naturally elegant, and rustic look outside.

Its main door (which can stay shut with a sliding latch) opens to reveal a spacious interior. Its three half-shelves are optional additions (depending on the needs of your outdoor space), but I think they'd be most useful for storing gardening tools. Plus, its top compartment provides even more space for hiding outdoor essentials.

Not only that, but this shed's slim frame makes it ideal for all sorts of outdoor spaces – from small backyards and tiny front porches to sprawling patios and lawns. It can help maintain organization so that you can host parties outside or simply relax outside without thinking about unsightly messes.

But don't just take it from me – nearly 230 people have given this outdoor storage shed a 5-star rating on Wayfair's site. Many remark on its easy assembly, its functionality, and its attractive appearance. Some even went so far as to customize it, painting it to match the aesthetic of their backyard or restyling it with different hardware. I'd customize it with this bronze gate bolt from Rejuvenation (to keep it securely closed) and this garden shed sign from Amazon (for some decorative appeal).

Wayfair's Wood Storage Shed is proof that chic and practical outdoor storage does, in fact, exist. But it's not the only one that I've got eyes on. Below, find six more outdoor storage pieces that tastefully blend functionality with stylistic appeal.

Shop More Surprisingly Chic Outdoor Storage

You don't have to settle for ugly outdoor storage just because it's practical. Functional and stylish outdoor storage boxes, sheds, and cabinets do exist, and though some can be expensive, Wayfair's Wood Storage Shed manages to deliver all of the best features on a budget.

But if a shed isn't enough to keep your backyard in check, don't worry. I asked interior designers to share their best outdoor storage ideas, and their tips are well worth reading.

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Coneflowers are one of the highlights of the summer garden. With their cheerful, daisy-like blooms, ability to attract bees and butterflies, and wonderfully resilient nature, it's easy to see why they're such popular perennials. I love growing them in my own garden because they're so reliable – once they start flowering, they seem to bring the whole border to life and quickly become a magnet for pollinators.

Whether you're growing some of the best coneflower varieties for vibrant color or you're still learning how to grow coneflowers successfully, a few simple jobs now can make a noticeable difference later in the season.

As temperatures increase and plants blossom, small tasks like watering deeply and deadheading early blooms can help keep coneflowers thriving. Spend a little time on them in June, and they'll reward you with a long-lasting display and a garden that's buzzing with bees, butterflies, and other welcome visitors.

1. Water Well During Dry Spells

Coneflowers (Echinacea) are famously drought-tolerant once they're established, which is one of the reasons I enjoy growing them so much. That said, newly planted coneflowers still need regular watering while they're settling in and developing strong root systems.

Rather than reaching for the watering can every day, it's better to give plants a deep, thorough soak whenever the top inch of soil feels dry. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the ground, helping plants become more resilient as summer progresses.

However, if you grow coneflowers in pots, you'll need to keep a closer eye on them. Containers dry out much more quickly than garden beds, especially during hot weather, so potted plants often need watering more frequently.

2. Feed Sparingly

One of the biggest mistakes I see gardeners make with coneflowers is overfeeding them. These North American prairie natives are naturally adapted to relatively lean soils, so they don't need much fertilizer to thrive.

If you're wondering how to fertilize coneflowers, my advice is to keep it simple. In my own garden, I usually leave established plants alone and only add a light layer of compost around the base in June if the soil seems particularly poor. More often than not, that's all they need to put on a beautiful display.

If your plants are struggling or you're gardening in sandy or nutrient-deficient soil, a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer can give them a gentle boost. Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food or Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food Fertilizer both available from Amazon, are popular options among US gardeners and can be used sparingly to support healthy growth and flowering.

Just be careful not to overdo it. High-nitrogen fertilizers tend to produce lots of lush foliage but fewer flowers, and with coneflowers, it's those long-lasting blooms that make them such a summer favorite.

3. Keep an Eye on Newly Emerging Buds

By June, many coneflowers are beginning to set flower buds, and I always make a point of checking in on them around this time. Healthy buds now usually mean a long season of blooms ahead, so it's worth taking a few minutes every week to inspect your plants.

Keep an eye out for signs of stress, such as yellowing leaves, spotted foliage, or distorted new growth. Catching problems early is always easier than dealing with them later. Good airflow is important, too. Removing any damaged leaves and making sure plants aren't overcrowded can help reduce the risk of fungal problems as summer progresses.

If you spot early signs of disease or pest damage, a product like Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Oil from Amazon can be a useful addition to your gardening toolkit and can help keep your coneflowers looking healthy and vigorous when used according to the label instructions.

4. Deadhead Early Flowers to Encourage More Blooms

Some coneflower varieties begin blooming in early summer, and once the first flowers start to fade, it's time to deadhead coneflowers to keep the display going. Removing spent blooms encourages the plant to put its energy into producing more flowers rather than setting seed, often extending the flowering season well into late summer.

Using a clean, sharp pair of secateurs, cut the stem back to the next set of leaves or a developing flower bud. I find the Fiskars Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems from Amazon are ideal for this job because they're lightweight and make precise cuts without damaging nearby growth. If you prefer a more traditional pair of pruners, the Viagrow Non-Slip Comfort Grip Pruning Shears from The Home Depot are another excellent option.

Regular deadheading also keeps plants looking neat and tidy throughout the season. That said, I always leave a few seed heads in place later in the year. Goldfinches absolutely love them, and the dried seed heads bring lovely texture and structure to the garden well into fall.

5. Mulch Carefully

A thin layer of mulch in June can make a big difference, especially if you're heading into a stretch of hot, dry weather. Mulching helps the soil retain moisture and suppresses weeds, so your coneflowers face less competition for water and nutrients. I like to spread a light layer of compost or leaf mold around the base of my plants at this time of year, as it helps keep moisture levels more consistent and gives the soil a gentle boost.

The trick is not to overdo it. Keep mulch a few inches away from the stems and avoid piling it on too thickly, as coneflowers dislike sitting in damp conditions. A product like Miracle-Gro Organic All Natural Mulch from The Home Depot can work well for this job, provided you apply it sparingly. A light, airy layer is all coneflowers need to stay happy through the heat of summer.

6. Support Taller Varieties if Necessary

Most coneflowers are perfectly capable of supporting themselves, but taller varieties can sometimes become a little top-heavy, particularly in windy gardens or rich soil. I've learned that it's much easier to add supports in June, before the flowers fully develop, than to try and rescue flopping stems later in the season.

Natural twig supports blend beautifully into the border, but slim stakes work just as well. I like to position them behind the foliage so they're barely noticeable once the plants fill out. Garden Plant Support Stakes from Amazon are a practical option, especially if you're growing taller cultivars and want to keep everything looking neat and upright through summer.

Shop Coneflower Care for June

Coneflowers are wonderfully low-maintenance perennials, but a little attention in June can make a noticeable difference later in the season. Water deeply during dry spells, go easy on the fertilizer, deadhead early flowers, and keep plants lightly mulched to help them cope with the summer heat.

It's also worth staying on top of weeds. Weeds compete with coneflowers for water and nutrients, and removing them regularly will help your plants thrive. I find tools like Grampa’s Weeder Tool from Amazon make the job much easier, especially when tackling deep-rooted weeds without disturbing nearby plants.

Spend a few minutes on these simple tasks now, and your coneflowers should reward you with months of colorful blooms and a garden that's buzzing with bees, butterflies, and other welcome pollinators all summer long.

We all know just how important pollinators are to our local ecosystem, biodiversity, and growing crops. But, even with the best intentions, it's easy to unknowingly make gardening mistakes that harm pollinators.

You don't have to hand over your entire yard as a pollinator garden to support bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other beneficial insects. Just making conscious choices when tending to your plants can go a long way in supporting wildlife and ensuring your outdoor space is a safe haven for them.

From using unnecessary chemicals to removing vital habitat, there are several errors that can put pollinators in harm's way. Here, we talk through the top three most common mistakes and what to do instead to achieve your dream garden while keeping buzzing bees and beautiful butterflies safe.

1. Only Planting Hybrids

Hybrid plant species are beautiful, but they aren't always the most resourceful for pollinators in search of nectar.

This is because many have been bred for aesthetic, ornamental purposes and don't necessarily have the abundant nectar available in naturally-occurring species.

That's why it's important to prioritize native planting where you can, as these are naturally-occurring plants in your region that coexist with the pollinators in need of their nectar.

Of course, there's nothing wrong with adding your favorite showy hybrids to your garden, just take care to also mix in lots of natives to serve the pollinators seeking resources in your yard.

If you don't know where to start, wildflower gardens are invaluable to pollinators. They're easy to grow, too, just take a pack of pollinator-friendly wildflower seeds (like this mix from Burpee) and sprinkle it in your borders or a wild part of your lawn.

You can take it a step further by introducing specialist pollinator plants in your garden, such as Heuchera americana (available at Nature Hills) for alumroot cellophane bee.

2. Using Chemical Pesticides

It can be easy and convenient to grab pesticides in the panic of spotting pests that destroy plants, but what we don't necessarily see is how these harmful chemicals impact the pollinators in our yards.

Chemical garden products can harm and kill bees, butterflies, and other insects that work in our favor in the yard. In fact, the beneficial insects that prey on pests can be wiped out by these pesticides.

Instead, consider natural pest control methods. This includes introducing predators, like these ladybugs from Amazon and other predators that eat aphids, for example.

You can also position the best pest-repellent plants around your yard to deter pests. This pack of marigolds from Walmart is a reliable choice, with the scent and chemical compounds of the blooms repelling a wide range of spring and summer garden pests.

3. Over-Tidying Your Yard

Many of us are eager to get out in the garden and remove spent flower blooms and stems as soon as they start to fade. But, this actually takes away vital habitat for pollinators.

Many types of bees, for example, are cavity nesters and use hollow stems for shelter. Likewise, fallen leaves, deadwood, and long grass provide habitats for other insects and even small mammals.

That's why you should avoid cutting down fading plants for as long as possible, and why you shouldn't over-tidy your yard in fall at the end of the growing season.

Instead, embrace this part of the plant's lifecycle. Many fading perennials are architectural and provide some structure and beautiful silhouettes to the late-season garden landscape.

When it is time to remove dead plant matter, make sure to use sharp and clean pruning tools to maintain plant health. These Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's are a popular choice.

You can also provide supplementary habitats for pollinators if you're keen to tidy up the yard. This bug hotel from Amazon, for example, has lots of nooks for them to find refuge in. Likewise, this mason bee house from Amazon doubles as a charming garden feature.

What to Shop

There are so many different ways to support pollinators in your garden. You can create a singular pollinator strip, for example, or even paint your fence the best color for pollinators to attract them.

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I added a 'Ghislaine de Féligonde' rambling rose to my garden last year and it has come back double the height and with even more blooms this spring. I've managed to achieve such a full and prolific display by keeping on top of seasonal tasks – and June comes with its own set to tick off.

If you also grow a rambling rose, you likely have a gorgeous, fragrant display right now (though, exact blooming time depends on the variety). This means some light pruning, tying in new growth, and deep watering is essential to do now for early summer care that extends your display until fall.

Here, I talk through exactly what to do with a rambling rose in June, so you can get the most out of this cottage garden staple.

1. Tie In Stems

While the main time to train a rambling rose (and indeed train a climbing rose) is when it isn't flowering (in spring and fall), you can do some light tying in June to protect any wayward stems that could snap in a sudden gust of wind.

One of the best pieces of advice I was given about my rambling rose was to train it into a fan shape on my trellis. The near-horizontal stems slow down the flow of sap and trick the plant into distributing energy all over, rather than rushing to the tips. This results in more bloom coverage and reduces bare, leafy patches.

It's best to use soft ties (like these from Amazon) or garden twine (like this from Lowe's) when attaching new growth to your plant support, leaving a finger's width between the stem and the support to ensure the ties don't cut into the plant.

2. Keep Deadheading

Although one of the biggest differences between climbing roses and rambling roses is that the former is much more likely to rebloom, there are some ramblers that have repeat displays.

This includes this 'Super Dorothy' rose from Amazon and 'Darwin's Enigma' rose from Amazon.

If your rambling rose is a repeat-flowering variety, then keep garden snips close to hand. These Fiskars gardening snips from Amazon are a good choice for the delicate rose stems.

You should deadhead your roses at the base of the flower stems, cutting at a node where new growth will emerge. This helps redirect the plant's energy into new growth and will extend your display.

If your rambling rose is a once-flowering variety, then there's no need to deadhead or tidy up the plant quickly. Leaving the spent blooms will often lead to the development of rosehips, which look particularly beautiful in fall.

You can find the best roses for rosehips in our expert guide.

3. Don't Fertilize Yet

There are a few rules to follow when it comes to fertilizing your rose (of any kind) to optimize its display.

If you provided your rose with a slow-release rose feed earlier in spring (March-April is the ideal window), then you don't need to top up with fertilizer in June – even if you are fertilizing the rest of your garden with an all-purpose feed (like this Miracle Gro one from Lowe's).

This is especially true for once-flowering varieties. In fact, fertilizing now could overload the plant, resulting in root burn, wilting, and a general decline in health.

However, for repeat-bloomers there is another opportunity to feed your rose. Once the first flush fades, you can use a liquid fertilizer (like this rose liquid feed from Amazon) to boost nutrients and support a second flush. You can also use a potash feed, like this tomato feed from Amazon.

This will happen later in the season, so for now just sit back and enjoy the early summer display.

4. Keep It Hydrated

With temperatures warming this month, it's important to keep on top of rose watering. Though, the age of your rose will determine just how much extra water it needs.

Newly planted roses will need some consistent watering as summer heat arrives to prevent heat stress and help them establish. Mature roses will be a lot more drought-tolerant, though weekly deep watering in warm spells will keep it hydrated and support its flowering.

Signs your rambling rose is underwatered include flowers fading quickly, wilting, and dropping leaves. Our guide to watering plants during a heatwave has more advice for keeping your rose happy through summer.

To ensure you also don't overwater your rose and cause root rot, use a soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon). I take regular readings to ensure my rose is sufficiently hydrated, as it helps me identify when to pick up my watering can without oversaturating the soil.

5. Check For Aphids

When I was watering my garden a couple of weeks ago I was horrified to see what's pictured in the image above: rose aphids all over new buds that are yet to open.

These spring and summer garden pests emerge around the same time as soft new growth on your rose, so now is the time to check for them (and other rose pests) and get rid of aphids as soon as you spot them.

You should inspect new shoot tips and the stems and buds just below them. These destructive pests cluster together and feed on soft growth, so also check on the underside of new foliage. They can be green, pink, or brown, depending on the species.

Some common signs of aphids on your rose include distorted and curling leaves, misshapen flower buds, sticky residue, and ant activity, as they 'farm' aphids for their honeydew. You may also spot the white cast shells of aphids as they shed their skin.

The good news is they rarely pose long-term damage to established roses, though blooms may be distorted in the short-term. They are also relatively easy to get rid of, especially if caught early.

I used my garden hose to blast them off my rose, which was effective and they didn't return. You can also pick them off and squish them or use a DIY aphid spray with dish soap and water to dry them out. You can also opt for insecticidal soap spray (available at Amazon).

I also relied on the natural pest control of beneficial insects to get rid of the aphids. I noticed quite a few ladybugs around my rose, which are aphid predators and help control their populations.

Keep inspecting your rose weekly throughout the summer months to catch aphid problems as early as possible.

What to Shop

The main thing to do with your rambling rose over the next couple of months is just enjoy. Light maintenance can help keep up aesthetics, but the summer isn't for major TLC. Once the end of summer rolls around, you'll want to prune your rambling rose and revive it after a tiring season of vigorous blooming.

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In the northern hemisphere, the summer solstice marks the longest day of the year, when the sun is at its furthest point from the equator. Historically, for many cultures, it was a magical time of celebration.

Whatever our lineage, it's likely our ancestors would have worshipped the sun. And whilst most of us enjoy the lighter evenings, few of us (outside of the Nordic nations) celebrate the longest day of the year with any type of ritual.

Although gardeners are more connected with the seasons than most, it's fair to say, in the modern world, we've lost our reverence to nature. Yet, there are many ways to restore this connection and one is the rise of those choosing to celebrate the solstices (and equinoxes in between). If you feel inclined to mark the summer solstice, which in 2026 is 21 June, there are a number of traditions being revived. One that struck a chord with the H&G team is the gathering of wildflowers.

Why Did People Gather Wildflowers On The Summer Solstice?

The summer solstice coincides with midsummer, a time when the earth - and the medicinal plants and healing herbs it has produced - are at their most potent.

The longest day also means the shortest night, and in ancient times, it was believed that the veil between the living and spirit worlds was particularly thin. In pagan celebrations, people wore crowns made with specific flowers and herbs or burned them on bonfires to protect themselves from evil spirits – or to attract elves and fairies.

While in Scandinavian folklore, legend had it that if a young girl picked seven types of wildflower and placed them under her pillow, she would dream of her future true love.

Plants and herbs, such as Rosemary, Mint, Verbena, Chamomile and Calendula were collected because it was believed they had attained the height of their medicinal value. These would be used in tinctures and teas, or dried for use throughout the year.

If you don't already have a herb garden, start one now, with this Chocolate Mint from Nature Hill's or this Roman Chamomile from Plant Addicts.

Why Create A Summer Solstice Ritual Now?

Some of those old traditions may no longer be relevant to us, but gathering wildflowers and herbs from our gardens (or where it's permitted) is a charming way to mark the summer solstice and connect with the seasons.

Aside from their beauty, plants contain plenty of potent medicinal and healing properties, which with the right guidance, can be used in home remedies and rituals.

'Creating a solstice ritual is a lovely way to slow down, mark the season and appreciate the time of year, when nature is abundant and the evenings are lighter,' says Aromatherapist & Educator, Tanya Moulding, aka The Perfume Mistress. 'I'm reminded that across much of Europe, midsummer was believed to be the moment when plants reached the height of their vitality.

'I also find it a gentle poignant nudge to be more observant – whether of ancestral traditions or to appreciate a plant and its link to traditional herbal knowledge. Being in nature can help foster creativity, flow state and sensory awareness.'

Psychic Medium, Sarah Potter, agrees and says the summer solstice is a beautiful time to gather wildflowers. 'It's a celebration of abundance, vitality, and the peak of the sun’s energy,' says Sarah. 'Each bloom has its own symbolism and energy but something I love about incorporating flowers into summer solstice rituals is that they allow us to pause and honor the beauty that is already growing around us.'

Which Flowers Were Gathered?

According to The University of Bristol Botanical Gardens, the Celts gathered St. John's Wort to harness the energy of the sun at its strongest, to protect against heartbreak and cultivate a brave heart.

Another plant that was gathered at the solstice was Lavender, which was harvested to honour midsummer, while Mugwort leaves were burned before bed, or placed under the pillow to induce prophetic dreams.

Sow these English Lavender seeds from Burpee or these Mugwort seeds from True Leaf Market this year, so you can gather sprigs next summer.

'The idea that certain plants can induce dreams sits at the crossroads of folklore, herbal medicine, scent and neuroscience,' says Tanya. 'Some plants have traditionally been associated with vivid dreams because they affect relaxation, sleep quality, memory, or the nervous system. Others have gained their reputation through centuries of folklore.

'There is also the effect of ‘expectation and ritual’, in that if someone gathers a herb or fragrant plant and then uses it in a bedtime ritual and goes to sleep expecting to dream, they are more likely to pay closer attention to their dream on waking, or enhance recall. Ritual, repetition and intention are powerful influencers.'

This Sunburst St John's Wort from Plant Addicts can be grown in zones 5-8 and will reach 2-3' tall.

Wildflowers And Herbs to Gather

Whether you want to influence your dreams, set an intention, or simply honour the summer solstice with a ritual, there are numerous wildflowers and herbs to collect. In European countries, Mullein, Meadowsweet, Rose, Sage, Elder and Thyme would also have been gathered.

'Some of my favorite flowers for the solstice include chamomile for peace, yarrow for protection, St. John’s wort for joy and vitality, lavender for calm and healing, and roses for love in all of its forms,' says Sarah.

'Let the flowers support your intention. I always encourage people to choose blooms that they feel drawn to and to harvest respectfully, taking only what is needed and leaving plenty behind for pollinators and the ecosystem.'

Here are some suggested plants to use.

Lavender: Traditionally associated with purification, rest, and peace

'This is a scent for settling an overactive mind and creating a sense of sanctuary,' says Tanya. 'It's a quintessential calming scent. Studies have found lavender aroma can reduce feelings of stress and promote relaxation Its scent often slows the pace of breathing and encourages rest.'

Rose: Historically linked with the heart, love, romance, beauty and consolation.

'Rose has a unique ability to feel both uplifting and comforting,' says Tanya. 'The scent is rich and complex, encouraging slower, deeper inhalation and is often associated with emotional wellbeing and positive mood. Its fragrance encourages tenderness, self-compassion, and gratitude.'

Chamomile: Known as much for its aroma as for its herbal uses in teas and tinctures

'The sweet, apple-like fragrance of chamomile is often associated with comfort and rest,' says Tanya. 'Many people experience it as nurturing and reassuring. Calming to the nervous system, this is a scent for reassurance and softness.'

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris): A famous European dream herb

'Mugwort was traditionally gathered at midsummer and placed beneath pillows, woven into wreaths, or used in teas,' says Tanya. 'In European folk traditions it is associated with prophecy, intuition and dream work.

'A sprig under the pillow was believed to encourage meaningful dreams and visions. There is some anecdotal reports of users having more vivid dreams and greater dream recall. It contains aromatic compounds that may influence the nervous system, although scientific evidence for dream enhancement remains limited.'

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris): Traditionally associated with courage and strength.

'A small herb with a surprisingly powerful aroma,' says Tanya. 'Thyme has a long history in European folklore and herbal traditions – used for respiratory support, associated with cleansing and purifying. It has a warm, aromatic herbal scent which can feel grounding and protective.'

This Woolly Thyme from Nature Hill's could be planted in a herb garden or in pots for its aromatic or culinary uses.

How to Create A Ritual With The Flowers and Herbs Collected

There are numerous ways to perform a summer solstice ritual with the flowers and herbs you have collected. Here are some of our favorites.

Dream Sachet: Gather a few sprigs of mugwort, lavender, rose, rosemary, lemon balm, geranium leaves or chamomile from your garden and create a small dream sachet.

'Use an organza, cotton muslin or paper bag and put the sprigs inside ,' says Tanya. ''Place the sachet beside your pillow or inside one corner of the pillowcase, before you go to sleep. Note any dreams immediately upon waking.'

These cotton linen bags from Lowe's come in a pack of 6, so you do the ritual with friends or family. These plain brown paper bags from Lowe's would be suitable too.

'Sleeping with flowers beneath your pillow will encourage vivid dreams, intuitive insight, and messages from your subconscious, your guides, and the Universe,' adds Sarah. 'Whether you view this as a magical act or mindfulness or even both, this ritual creates a moment of intention before ending your day and going to sleep.

'The flowers provide a beautiful invitation to listen more closely to your inner wisdom and the dreams that arise during this powerful seasonal threshold.'

Posy: A simple posy of gathered flowers is another way to mark the solstice. 'Create a posy of appreciation; sweet peas, lavender and fragrant rose would be lovely,' says Tanya. 'Arrange the flowers in a small vase or jar. As you add each stem, consider what quality it represents, for example: Lavender — peace, Rose — love etc and use as inspiration for seasonal writing or journaling.'

This Jam paper sunburst orange notebook from Lowe's would make a fitting place to record your thoughts or dreams.

Bath Tea: Take 3 -5 aromatic plants and make a solstice ‘tea’ to bathe in. 'Choose the plants to suit your intention,' says Tanya. 'Steep them for five minutes and add this floral-infused water to a drawn bath or foot bath. Soak and give thanks, mentally absorb the qualities of the plants to support you in your summer endeavours.'

Alternatively, you could also use the ‘infused water’ to cleanse your space, wash floors, surfaces etc – to welcome in summer abundance, joy and protection.

These garden snips from Ace Hardware are great for cutting roses and flowers with tougher stems.

Hanging bundle: Many folk traditions gathered a selection of herbs at midsummer, such as: Lavender, rosemary, mugwort, rose, thyme, sage, or lemon balm and hug them to dry to use in teas and tinctures. 'These plants are quite ‘robust’ and will dry quite well,' says Tanya. 'Tie them together with ribbon or twine and hang them as a fragrant reminder of summer and the season’s abundance.'

Scent your room by tying bundles of wildflowers and herbs with this twisted jute twine from Lowe's and hanging them upside down to dry.

Gratitude: 'Scatter fragrant flower petals single or combined – rose, jasmine, elderflower, honeysuckle, around a candle or add them to a bowl of water as an offering of gratitude,' says Tanya. 'Give yourself time to reflect and journal.'

These suggestions are not prescriptive, choose whichever wildflowers, herbs or native plants you are drawn to, or have access to.

You could also check out solstice traditions performed in your region or according to your ancestry. Take a slow walk around your garden or local area and see what you find. Just make sure you know what you are picking and have permission to take them.

Whether you observe any of the rituals suggested, or create your own, the point is to pause, reflect and celebrate the light and abundance at this time of year.

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Just because you have a small garden, doesn't mean you can't grow your own fruit. I've been longing to add fruit trees to my garden, but simply don't have the space for the likes of a towering apple tree. That's why I've been looking at alternatives and finally landed on the perfect pick: blueberry bushes.

Of course blueberries don't directly replace apples as a crop, but to fulfil my kitchen garden fantasy, they're much easier to work with in a small garden. They take up less space, can be easily grown in pots (especially the native variety 'Lowbush' blueberry from Plant Addicts), and they don't rely on multiple shrubs for cross-pollination. Plus, they crop far sooner than apples, providing quicker gratification.

Just like large apple trees, blueberry bushes even have their own beautiful spring blossoms and fall foliage, ticking the box for ornamental value. So, if you're also tight on space and want a reliable, productive fruit to grow, keep reading – here's why you should consider blueberries over apples.

The Problem with Apple Trees in Small Gardens

There are several reasons why apple trees aren't the most ideal fruit trees for small gardens.

The most obvious point being they can tower with large canopies. Not only does this take up ground space with large trunks, it also casts shade over your limited outdoor space, taking away opportunities to grow sun-loving plants elsewhere.

Of course, there are compact apple tree varieties (like this 'Scarlet Sentinel' columnar apple tree at Fast Growing Trees), but maintenance is still very particular.

Apple tree pruning is quite specific, for example. You need to prune these trees in a way that improves air circulation, maintains shape, and encourages fruiting wood. This is laborious (although made easier by an electric pruner, like the Felco 2e pruning shears on Amazon), and if you get it wrong, you could stunt your apple harvest.

The majority of apple trees also don't self-pollinate, so you often need a second tree nearby for a reliable and higher yield. When you're tight on space, this isn't an easy thing to achieve.

Another common issue with apple trees in small gardens is they have a few pests and diseases to keep an eye out for. Apple scab, powdery mildew, and woolly apple aphids are particularly problematic. In a smaller garden, these issues are at a higher risk of spreading fast.

With all of this in mind, I've decided blueberries are a more achievable and manageable fruit to grow successfully in my small backyard. Here's why.

Why Blueberries Are Better for Small Gardens

For someone like me with a smaller yard, every inch of outdoor space counts. That's why blueberries are replacing apples in small gardens, as it demands much less space.

Blueberry shrubs are typically self-fertile and can produce a crop without a second plant for cross-pollination, though planting two or more varieties will boost your harvest. You should pick two varieties blooming at the same time, for example this 'Blue Jay' blueberry from Nature Hills and this 'Patriot' blueberry from Plant Addicts both blossom between April and May.

Not needing multiple shrubs, is a lot less demanding of space than needing to grow multiple apple trees.

Plus, blueberries are one of the easiest fruit to grow in pots (compact varieties are the best choice for containers), which is more favorable in a smaller yard, courtyard garden, or even on a balcony garden.

In fact, blueberry shrubs are often best grown in containers because they require an acidic soil type to thrive and bear fruit. This is far easier to control when growing in pots.

Blueberry bush pruning is also more forgiving than apple trees. It focuses on removing damaged and dead wood to encourage new growth.

And when it comes to pests and diseases, blueberry bushes are susceptible to the likes of mummy berry, botrytis blight, and more. However, it's easier to keep these at bay than apple tree problems, for example by maintaining good air circulation (you can use these Fiskars bypass pruning shears to remove crossing branches) and drainage in pots.

If you're battling with birds eating your blueberries, simply place this fruit bush netting from Lowe's over the shrub.

Blueberry Varieties to Try

There are so many different types of blueberries to grow, with pretty much all of them being suited to some form of a smaller garden, whether a tiny yard, balcony, or even in a window box.

If you like to prioritize native planting, then 'Blue Jay' blueberry (available at Plant Addicts) is a good choice. It's a larger shrub with a mounded habit, reaching 6-7ft in height, so it can work in borders and large pots. In fall, its dark green foliage turns a beautiful purple-red.

'Patriot' blueberry (also available at Plant Addicts) is an early-season option, ready to harvest from late June. It's loved for being a particularly productive shrub, yielding 10lbs or more of fruit once mature. This blueberry shrub typically reaches 4-5 feet, once again working well for gaps in planting or larger pots.

For a variety to grow in hanging baskets, window boxes, and vertical gardens, 'Sapphire Cascade' blueberry (which you can find at Plant Addicts) is the option for you. It was bred specifically for smaller spaces, with a trailing habit that turns it into an edible botanical spectacle.

You can use this vertical garden pocket plant on Amazon to create an edible living wall with 'Sapphire Cascade.'

'Sunshine Blue' blueberry (which you can find on Amazon) is another popular choice for container growing. It's a semi-evergreen compact shrub with pink-white spring flowers. It has a sweet, sugary berries ready to harvest in summer.

What to Shop

If you have embarked on growing blueberries for the first time, read our guide on how to get a blueberry bush to fruit. There are a few tricks you can do to increase your yield.

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The arrival of summer means hosting outdoors, and preparing your garden shouldn't be a chore. A glorious burst of blooms, exuberant plant growth all buzzing with activity, the June yard can feel a little overwhelming and touch too chaotic for entertaining friends and family.

The secret to smarter hosting is to celebrate summer's abundance of plant growth yet maintain a restorative touch of calm. Sounds complicated? Well, actually it isn't. With a careful curation of clever garden design and thoughtful editing you can transform the most unruly yard into an inviting hosting space.

Landscaping experts and pro gardeners guide us through three key steps. From artfully blurring boundaries, using a repetitive plant palette through to selectively editing growth, discover how to achieve a desirable balance and make it look effortless, too.

Repeat Plants For Instant Calm And Harmony

Ever look at your summer yard and only see a chaotic jumble of foliage and flowers, well you are not alone, as landscape architect Gerardo Loayza explains. ‘When people go to the garden center, they tend to get one of everything, right?

'If you have 50 different plants mixed together, your guests' eyes have to work overtime to process all that visual noise. Repeating the same plant every few feet acts as a visual palate cleanser.’

Plant expert Corrina Stellitano Andrews adds, ‘One of the fastest ways to make a garden feel cohesive is repetition. Landscapes often feel larger, calmer, and more professionally designed when they rely on repetition. The key is to find a handful of plants that perform well and use them repeatedly.’

Balancing volume, texture and visual interest is all important when it comes to striking the desired balance. ‘Summer gardens are at their best when they feel lush but not overcrowded,’ adds Corrina.

‘Rather than creating dense masses of foliage, incorporate some plants with airy growth habits that add movement, texture, and a greater sense of openness.'

Gerardo continues, ‘It doesn't just have to be wispy grasses; we definitely want to mix textures. Alliums, with their pompom flowers and seedheads are amazing for this; there's brunnera with its sculpted leaves, and cushions of white sweet alyssums.’

It’s not just the must-have perennials and the easiest bulbs that repeat well, multiple shrubs also add a quiet grandeur.

‘A drift of White Wedding Hydrangea in sunny spaces or ‘Big Daddy’ Hydrangea in shade repeated throughout a property creates far more impact than scattering five or six unrelated flowering shrubs around the yard,’ says Corrina.

Create Soft Edges With Planting

Blurring the meeting of paving and planting gives any garden a welcoming softness and relaxed appeal. Carefully positioned underrated ground cover plants encourage the eye to skim across the yard, creating an illusion of extra space.

'Creating soft edges in a landscape generally means using plants with arching and weeping habits,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'Hakonechloa macra, or Japanese Forest Grass, is a beautiful option for shady areas while smaller fern varieties like Japanese Painted Fern and Lady Fern have a weeping habit and soft fronds in different hues.' You can find these live ferns at Walmart.

Blurring hard paved edges can also put guests at ease, encouraging them to explore the space and interact with their surroundings

‘I always tell people to use the ankle brush test: if a guest steps backward while holding a drink and bumps into the edge of your gardening, is it going to scratch a leg if you have stiff boxwoods right up against the patio edges?’ says Gerardo. ‘People also kind of subconsciously feel boxed in; it's almost like you're in a fortress.’

In addition to our best edging plants, Gerardo suggests include the dreamy blue shades of Nepeta racemosa 'Walker's Low' available at Nature Hills, Japanese Forest Grass and dazzling Calibrachoas, aka trailing petunia.

Landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman also advocates this way of planting. ‘Allowing Juniper and other low evergreens to creep into a hosting garden creates the most lovely informality to an otherwise rigid space.

'Chinese Marshflower; Mazus reptans and Thymus offer similar visuals, but with the comfort of being able to be stepped on occasionally, without the host’s need for concern.’

Juniper plants are available at Amazon.

Edit One-Third Of June Growth

While we dream of outdoor evening party ideas, the planting in our gardens can often feel strangely lackluster and underwhelming.

‘June is often when gardens transition from spring beauty to summer abundance. It's also when many landscapes begin to look overgrown,’ explains Corinna. ‘This is a great time to practice selective editing. Rather than shearing everything into submission, remove roughly one-third of the growth that's unsightly or causing problems.’

The thought of reducing foliage and highly anticipated blooms can feel counterproductive, but it’s really a case of taking it slow, being selective and using the essential pruning tools.

‘What's important is knowing when to cut and leave alone,’ says Gerardo. ‘You want to target the really heavy floppy ones and leave the early blooms alone. Don't touch the woody shrubs, but with the really overcrowded plants literally reach into the center and snip out a few stems to let the air flow through.’

Other candidates for the June edit are, ‘Any plant that is beginning to dominate its neighbors,’ says Corrina. ‘For example, if a loropetalum (Chinese Fringe Flower) is starting to engulf nearby perennials, selectively reduce a few longer branches rather than shearing the entire plant.

'If an abelia is producing dense interior growth, thin some stems to improve airflow and maintain its natural shape. This improves airflow, reduces disease risk, maintains sightlines, and ensures neighboring plants receive enough sunlight.’

When it comes to suitable tools, Corrina favors a pair of sharp bypass hand pruners at Lowe's and lightweight hedge shears, also at Lowe's.

Once you have cajoled your summer yard into shape, there's plenty of other outdoor hosting inspiration to savor. The 3-zone outdoor hosting guide will ensure every occasion goes smoothly, while our outdoor candle ideas and outdoor table lighting ideas add a stylish sparkle.

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My string of hearts is undoubtedly the cutest houseplant in my collection. Long strings adorned with heart-shaped leaves never fail to capture my guests' attention. But, when these plants drop their leaves, the bare strands aren't so attractive.

It's a common problem when growing a string of hearts (whether a standard variety or a variegated string of hearts, like this from Walmart). Prolonged drought, incorrect lighting, pest problems, and other issues can all result in leaves dropping quickly and even contribute to the gradual decline of the the plant.

The good news is a simple adjustment in its growing environment will help your string of hearts recover quickly and stop it from happening again. Here, a houseplant expert explains the five common causes behind a string of hearts dropping leaves and what to do to fix it.

1. Severe Dehydration

The number one cause behind a string of hearts dropping leaves is a lack of water.

Sing of hearts is a semi-succulent plant with fleshy leaves and tubers that store water. This means they can cope with some drought, but prolonged periods will result in symptoms like leaf drop.

'If the plant hasn’t been watered for several weeks or months, it’ll go into survival mode. The leaves will become thin, wrinkled, and limp,' explains Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'To conserve its remaining moisture, the string of hearts begins sacrificing older leaves (usually near the base), which dry up and fall off,' she describes.

To fix this, use houseplant gardening snips (these Fiskars ones on Amazon are a reliable choice) to prune away any damaged, dehydrated foliage. You should then adjust your houseplant watering approach.

'Water the plant thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. If the houseplant soil has become so dry that it doesn't absorb water and has pulled away from the sides of the pot, use the bottom watering method: place the pot in a container of water for 15–20 minutes so the root ball can fully rehydrate,' Marina suggests.

2. Root Rot

The other end of watering mistakes is oversaturating your string of hearts' soil. These delicate trailing plants don't cope with soggy conditions and are susceptible to houseplant root rot from sitting in waterlogged soil.

'Without a healthy root system, the leaves turn yellow, become soft, and fall off,' Marina notes.

'The best thing to do is let the soil dry out completely, all the way to the bottom of the pot, before watering again. Use pots with drainage holes and a light, well-draining potting mix (a succulent mix with added perlite is ideal, like this succulent potting mix from Walmart),' she adds.

If your string of hearts' roots are really mushy, you may need to prune houseplant roots. Focus on removing the most damaged ones, leaving a sufficient root system with firm roots and tubers.

I also suggest picking up a soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon) weekly to check your string of hearts' soil. This will identify just how wet the soil is and if it's time to top up water or let it dry out for a bit longer.

3. Insufficient Light

It's common to style these houseplants on a high shelf or bookcase, with its vines cascading down. While no doubt beautiful, this often leaves the top of the plant in a darker spot.

'As a result, the long stems hang beautifully in the light, while the base of the plant in the pot remains in complete shade. The leaves at the base begin to thin and drop,' Marina says.

'The top of the plant becomes completely bare, even though the vines below may continue growing,' she explains.

Ideally, string of hearts need 4-6 hours of bright light, with exposure over all of the plant. Though, you should avoid a direct sun position which can cause sunburn and leaf scorch.

'Lower the pot. Light should fall from above, illuminating the soil surface and the bases of the stems,' Marina suggests.

You can also supplement daylight with a grow light. This houseplant grow light from Amazon with an automatic timer is low-effort to use.

4. Cold Drafts

Temperature fluctuations can shock plants and cause symptoms like stunted growth and leaf drop. When it comes to string of hearts, its sudden cold drafts that cause such symptoms.

'Native to South Africa, this semi-succulent loves stable warmth, around 64-77°F and reacts immediately to sudden environmental changes. Leaves may drop in large numbers while still green, sometimes within just a few days,' Marina says.

'The cause may be a cold draft from an open window in winter, from an air conditioner, or proximity to a hot radiator, which dries out the stems,' she notes.

For this reason, you should position your string of hearts in a warm corner of the home, out of the path of a draft. Don't forget to also follow winter houseplant care by moving your string of hearts away from cold windows.

'Avoid rotating or moving the pot unnecessarily over the next few weeks while it recovers,' Marina advises.

You can use this room thermometer from Walmart to monitor the temperature for your string of hearts going forward.

5. Pest Damage

String of hearts can come under attack of a range of houseplant pests, most notably spider mites and mealybugs, as well as aphids and scale insects.

'The string of hearts is resistant to many problems, but dry air and weakened vigor can make it vulnerable to pests,' says Marina. 'If infested, the leaves develop yellow patches, become deformed, curl, and eventually fall off,' she explains.

It's important to determine which pest is attacking your string of hearts to know how to get rid of them. Fine webbing is a sign of spider mites, while white, sticky clumps on stem nodes may indicate mealybugs.

You should isolate the plant so the pests don't spread to other houseplants, and deal with the infestation accordingly. Our guide to getting rid of spider mites on houseplants has more information, for example.

To avoid a pest problem in the future, regularly check your string of hearts, including underneath its leaves where they can be found hiding, and take care to clean your houseplant leaves.

What to Shop

Once your string of hearts has bounced back from dropping leaves, you can try propagating your string of hearts to get more plants for free. Take care to read up on water propagation mistakes before doing this, to boost your chances of success.

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If you're deadheading perennials in June, it pays to be selective. While removing spent blooms can encourage repeat flowering, some nectar-rich plants are far more valuable left intact, providing a vital food source for hummingbirds as they prepare for their long migration south later in summer.

Take salvias, for example. A mature clump can produce dozens of flowering stems, each covered in nectar-rich tubular blooms. By mid to late summer, many of those flowers may look past their best, but they're still feeding wildlife. Cut every stem back, and any regrowth is likely to be limited, leaving far fewer flowers available in August and September when migrating hummingbirds need them most.

That's why I leave certain perennials well alone in late summer, particularly those still offering nectar to pollinators and migrating hummingbirds. If you're tempted to tidy up faded blooms, it might be worth waiting. Here are five perennials I never deadhead too soon.

1. Cardinal flower

Many late-blooming flowers to attract hummingbirds are considered plants you should not deadhead when the migration gets underway. Even brown and faded blooms can still contain plenty of sweet nectar, vital to help hummingbirds as they make their epic journey south.

The cardinal flower, or Lobelia cardinalis, is a scarlet-colored North American native wildflower that is an annual hit with pollinators.

If you’ve ever grown cardinal flowers, you’ll know just how fiercely hummingbirds adore them, and it is often considered one of the best perennials to attract hummingbirds.

You can find a beautiful, native cardinal flower at Plant Addicts.

It usually throws up vivid scarlet flower spikes from July through September, and there is no need for any deadheading. Once it’s blooming, leave it be. Unlike some perennials, I have found that cardinal flowers don't have a reliable rebloom late in the year, and every stem you cut is one less food source during migration.

Accessories Hummingbirds Will Adore

2. Bee balm

As you can see from the image above, bee balm typically produces masses of red, pink or purple flowers, and if you are looking to attract hummingbirds, you won't find a better perennial.

The tubular bee balm flowers are popular with hummingbirds (and a whole host of other pollinators, too), prized for their high nectar content. And, just remember, that even if the flower petals have turned brown, nectar will still be found inside each bloom.

If you fancy adding a new Monarda variety to your borders or pots, try this 'Leading Lady Plum' variety, with live plants available from Burpee.

Hardy down to zone 4, this lilac perennial will keep any visiting birds and butterflies happy during summer and fall.

3. Penstemon

Whatever penstemons you grow, you'll have noticed just how popular these perennials are with pollinators. Their nectar-rich, tubular flowers are perfectly shaped for hummingbirds, which can often be seen hovering between blooms throughout summer, alongside butterflies, bees and other long-tongued pollinators.

Learning how to deadhead penstemon is simple enough, and cutting flower spikes back in early summer can encourage a second flush of blooms. However, by summer, I prefer to put the secateurs away. Even if the flower spikes are beginning to fade, they can still offer valuable nectar at a time when hummingbirds are feeding heavily ahead of their fall migration.

The Summit Sweets™ Ruby Beardtongue penstemon from Plant Addicts has ruby flower spikes hummingbirds will adore.

Late in the season, every flower counts. Rather than cutting back entire stems, leave any spikes that are still carrying blooms and nectar. To support continued flowering, feed plants with an organic bloom booster feed by Espoma, available via Amazon, which may encourage a few extra flower spikes before the first frosts arrive.

4. Salvia

Whether you grow salvia in pots or borders, these are stalwarts of any wildlife garden, especially in late summer. As members of the mint family, or Lamiaceae, they typically produce tubular, nectar-rich flowers that will be utterly irresistible to hummingbirds during summer.

While deadheading salvias is a good idea, from summer I would put the pruners down, and leave your plants alone.

Deadheading from this point onwards might give you a sprig or two of new growth, but it’ll come at the cost of what’s already there.

Even faded blooms are still full of nectar, and seeing brown petals is a price worth paying, in my opinion, if it means supporting hungry birds and pollinators.

If you want to add another salvia to your collection this summer, try Salvia 'May Night', from Fast Growing Trees.

5. Hummingbird mint

Hummingbird mint, or Agastache, easily makes this list of perennials to never deadhead for hummingbirds during their migration.

My dad has been enjoying the flowers of hummingbird mint for many weeks now, and once in full swing, this North American perennial can produce lilac spires that smell heavenly (like aniseed) right through until fall.

Importantly, hummingbirds are constant visitors to this plant, as you might have guessed by the name.

And, while it might be tempting to deadhead now in hopes of another flush, I’ve found that by summer, what you see is often what you get.

If you want to add a new variety to your plot, I love this Summerlong™ Coral Agastache from Plant Addicts, which will thrive in zones 7-10.

What to Shop

If you have hummingbird feeders in your yard, be sure to keep them clean during the growing season, using something like this hummingbird cleaner, available from Amazon, which will help to keep pests and problems at bay.

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The tradition of harvesting herbs on the summer solstice stretches back through prehistoric ritual and European pagan culture, rooted in the belief that when the sun was at its most powerful, herbs would be at their most potent too. And there's some science behind that idea.

Many herbs reach their peak concentration of essential oils (the compounds responsible for flavor and fragrance) in late June, just before they flower. The solstice also falls before peak summer heat and drought begins to stress plants and divert their energy into seed production. 'Harvesting them before they start to decline makes sense,' says C.L. Fornari, National Garden Bureau member and host of The Garden Lady radio program. 'Additionally, many of the herbs have not yet started to divert their resources into making seeds.'

Gardeners in cooler climates, including much of the Northeast, may find some herbs aren't quite ready by June 21st. So the date should be treated as a guide rather than a strict deadline. If you do want to celebrate the summer solstice at home, these are the herbs gardening experts recommend harvesting first.

The Best Herbs To Harvest On Summer Solstice

From ancient ritual herbs burned in Midsummer bonfires to the culinary staples of the modern kitchen garden, the below plants all share one thing; they are either at or near their best around the summer solstice.

Some earn their place through folklore as much as flavor, while others purely because their essential oil content peaks at this point in the growing season.

1. St John's Wort

St John's Wort (Hypericum spp) is arguably the herb most closely associated with the summer solstice. Its name is tied directly to the feast of St John on June 24th, and the tradition of harvesting it during Midsummer runs deep through European culture and folklore.

Its very name reflects this history. Hypericum derives from the Greek for 'above an image'; a reference to the medieval practice of hanging the plant above icons to ward off evil spirits.

'The connection between an ancient sun herb and the saint born at the turning of the year was distinctive, and the two became inseparable in European folk tradition,' says Susan Betz, founder of Fresh Start Herbs, who has been growing and using herbs for over 35 years.

Harvest the flowering tops when the blooms first open and dry them quickly in a warm, airy spot.

2. Lavender

The summer solstice is when lavender flowers are usually just starting to open, making it the most beautiful (and potent) time to harvest lavender.

Cut stems just as the buds begin to open, before the flowers are fully out, for maximum fragrance and essential oil content. Once fully open, the oils begin to dissipate.

'Classic summer plants like lavender were linked to this time of year, and were sometimes used by Druids in their ceremonial Midsummer bonfires,' says C.L. Fornari.

Hang bundles upside down in a cool, dark spot to dry - lavender is one of the easiest herbs to preserve and will hold its scent for months in a glass jar or linen sachet.

Where to buy: Buy herb snips from Amazon for around $10.

3. Rosemary

Rosemary has been building its essential oil content through the long days of spring, and by the summer solstice, it is at its most aromatic and flavorful.

'Along the sunny coasts of the Mediterranean, rosemary and lavender were burned in solstice bonfires, their smoke considered purifying for both body and spirit,' says Susan.

Harvest generously (rosemary responds well to cutting and will regrow thicker) and dry it flat on a rack or bundled and hung. It's equally well preserved by blending with olive oil and freezing in small portions for use through the winter months.

Where to buy: Cotton twine for bundling is available from Amazon.

4. Mugwort

By the summer solstice, mugwort is typically approaching flower, making it an ideal time to gather the leaves and flowering tops for drying.

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) is one of the many plants with mythical origins, that has long been central to midsummer celebrations across European traditions. People wore garlands of it, danced around fires with it, and then threw the garlands into the flames to ensure protection for the coming year.

'Chinese tradition holds that mugwort reaches the peak of its medicinal power at the solstice, and it is still harvested at this time as a burning herb in traditional medicine,' says Susan. 'Dried, compressed, and smouldered over acupuncture points to warm the body and restore circulation.'

5. Elderflower

The elderflower window is short. The blooms are at their fragrant best around the solstice and quickly begin to fade, making it one of the most time-sensitive harvests of the year.

Throughout plant folklore, elder (also known as sambucus) is regarded as the mother of herbs, credited with a special power to protect all plants growing near it. Ancient gardeners planted elder at the corners of herb gardens and close to the house, believing it watched over both plants and family alike.

'Its flat white flower clusters (umbels of tiny stars) were regarded as a portal to the fairy realm, most potent at midsummer, when the boundary between worlds grew thin,' says Susan. 'According to legend, sprinkling elderflowers, berries, or leaves on a person or place could make wishes come true.'

Pick the flower heads in full sun when the tiny flower heads are just open, and use fresh for cordials or infusions, or dry flat on a rack for teas.

6. Sage

Sage reaches peak aromatic intensity in midsummer heat, making the solstice an ideal moment to cut it back hard and encourage a flush of fresh growth.

Harvest stems before flowering for the strongest flavor and to encourage fresh growth through the second half of summer.

For a more versatile form of preservation, Debra Knapke, an experienced gardener and designer at The Garden Sage, recommends freezing sage as part of a herb-pesto blend. Her favorite is a mix of rosemary, basil, sage, oregano, and thyme, processed with olive oil.

'I do not add nuts or cheese to my pestos before freezing,' she notes. 'There are too many people who have nut allergies, and cheese in the freezer makes a gummy pesto. It is easy to add nuts and cheese later.'

7. Mint

Mint is best harvested before it flowers, where the leaves are rich in essential oils and the flavor is at its freshest. By the summer solstice most mint plants are full and vigorous but have not yet started to bolt, making it an ideal time to cut them back.

Harvest stems generously, trimming up to a third of the plant at a time. Mint responds quickly to pruning, producing a fresh flush of growth within weeks. If you grow mint in pots to contain its spread, the solstice is a good time to cut it back hard.

Cut stems can be used fresh, dried or frozen, but freezing tends to preserve the brightest flavor. 'The mint family contains many culinary and medicinal herbs,' says Debra. 'Most are easy to hang dry or preserve in salts, sugars, and pestos which I then freeze.'

Shop Harvest Herbs

How To Harvest Herbs On The Summer Solstice

The best time of day to harvest herbs on the summer solstice is first thing in the morning, says Susan. 'In the early morning, after the dew has dried but before the heat builds, the leaves and flowers retain the maximum oil,' she says. 'On a hot afternoon, a significant portion has already been lost to the air.'

It's also worth remembering that the summer solstice isn't a hard deadline to harvest all herbs. Not every plant peaks at the solstice, timing varies by species, climates and growing conditions, meaning some herbs may reach their peak slightly before or after June 20th.

If you're already thinking about when to plant herbs for next season, now is a good time to see what's thriving and what you'd like to add. The solstice is better understood as the midpoint of a several-week window of peak potency rather than a single appointed day.

'What the traditional calendar got right was the season and the signal: full bloom, maximum light, the year at its height,' adds Susan. 'The legends and ceremonies grew from close observation, passed down through the regional traditions of peoples who had harvested these plants for generations.'

Shop Herb Drying Essentials

While the summer solstice isn't a strict deadline, it is a useful reminder that many herbs are entering their peak harvest window. Gather them now and you'll capture some of the best fragrance and flavor the growing season has to offer.

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