November is an important month for poinsettias, particularly if you want to enjoy a beautiful display of red, pink or cream bracts throughout the festive season. Whether you've recently brought home a new plant or are hoping to encourage one you've kept from last Christmas to develop its colorful foliage again, a few seasonal adjustments can make all the difference.

Native to Mexico, poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are tropical plants that respond to changes in daylight to produce their distinctive colorful bracts. These are actually modified leaves, rather than flowers, which surround the plant's tiny yellow blooms. As temperatures drop and central heating comes on, it's important to recreate the warm, consistent growing conditions they naturally prefer.

Getting your poinsettia care right in November means paying particular attention to light, warmth and watering. With the right conditions, you can help maintain healthy foliage and vibrant bracts throughout the festive season. Here are five essential things to do this month.

1. Make Sure Your Poinsettia Gets Enough Daylight

As the days become shorter, providing enough natural light is particularly important for keeping poinsettia foliage healthy and colorful. When considering where to place a poinsettia, choose somewhere bright, ideally near an east- or west-facing window, where it can enjoy plenty of indirect daylight without being exposed to harsh direct sunshine. A sheer voile curtain from Target can help filter stronger sunlight, while the OLIVBLAD plant stand from IKEA is useful for positioning your poinsettia closer to a window if needed.

If you're trying to encourage a poinsettia you've kept from last Christmas to develop its colorful bracts again, November is also an important stage in its flowering cycle. These tropical plants need long, uninterrupted periods of darkness to trigger their seasonal display, typically around 14 hours each night for eight to 10 weeks. If you began this process in October, continue the routine until you see the bracts developing color. Once they start to turn red, pink or cream, you can stop covering the plant at night and return it to its usual bright position. Even small amounts of artificial light during the dark period can interfere with this process, so consistency is essential.

2. Keep Your Poinsettia Warm and Away From Drafts

Poinsettias are sensitive to temperature changes, so finding a suitable position is one of the most important things you can do for them in November. They prefer consistent warmth, ideally around 65–70°F (18–21°C), and should be kept away from cold drafts, open doors and chilly windowsills. If your home tends to feel chilly, the Govee Indoor Hygrometer Thermometer from Amazon can help you monitor the temperature and find a comfortable spot for your plant.

It's equally important to avoid placing your poinsettia too close to radiators, fireplaces or heating vents. Although poinsettias appreciate warmth, hot, dry air can cause their leaves and colorful bracts to deteriorate and drop prematurely. If your home is particularly dry during the heating season, the Homedics Portable Humidifier from Amazon can help improve indoor conditions.

If you've recently bought a poinsettia, be particularly careful when bringing it home. Exposure to cold temperatures on the journey can cause considerable stress, so ask for it to be wrapped before leaving the store and take it indoors promptly.

3. Adjust How You Water Your Poinsettia

As your poinsettia settles into its winter display, pay attention to its watering requirements. Knowing when and how to water a poinsettia is important for keeping its foliage healthy and preventing premature leaf drop. The aim is to keep the compost lightly moist without allowing the roots to become waterlogged.

Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, check the surface of the compost regularly. When the top inch feels dry to the touch, water thoroughly using room-temperature water, allowing any excess to drain away. A long-spout indoor watering can from Amazon makes it easier to direct water onto the compost without splashing the foliage.

Never leave the plant sitting in a saucer or decorative outer pot filled with water, as this can encourage root rot. If your poinsettia is displayed in a decorative Christmas container, remove the nursery pot before watering and let it drain completely before putting it back. A plant pot drip tray can also help catch excess water and protect your furniture.

4. Check the Leaves and Remove Any Damaged Growth

November is a good time to give your poinsettia a quick health check, particularly if you've had it for several weeks or are bringing an older plant back into flower. Look for yellowing leaves, wilting, damaged foliage or signs of pests, which can indicate that its growing conditions need adjusting.

Remove any fallen leaves from the surface of the compost and carefully take away foliage that has become yellow or damaged. Use clean, sharp houseplant pruning scissors to avoid unnecessarily disturbing the plant. It's also worth checking underneath the leaves and around the stems for common houseplant pests, including whitefly and mealybugs. If you spot any, deal with them promptly using an appropriate houseplant insecticidal soap spray, such as the Garden Safe option from Amazon, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Avoid extensive pruning at this stage, as your priority should be maintaining the plant's foliage and colorful bracts rather than encouraging lots of new growth.

5. Give Your Poinsettia the Right Conditions to Last Until Christmas

If you want your poinsettia to remain a beautiful part of your Christmas decorating, consistency is more important than giving it lots of additional attention. Keep it in a bright, warm position, maintain an even watering routine and avoid moving it between rooms with significantly different temperatures. A decorative ceramic plant pot, such as this ceramic design from Target, can also help create an attractive festive display, as long as you can easily remove the nursery pot for watering.

There is generally no need to feed a newly purchased poinsettia during its festive display period. If you're growing an older plant you've encouraged to flower again, you can continue an appropriate feeding routine, using a balanced liquid, such as the TPS Poinsettia Fertilizer from Amazon, according to the manufacturer's instructions.

A little attention to poinsettia care in November will help keep its foliage healthy and colorful bracts looking vibrant throughout the festive season. Focus on consistent warmth, good light and careful watering, and your plant should remain a beautiful part of your home well into the New Year.

Removing pine needles and other tiny debris from a gravel path or driveway is painstaking, as they get everywhere. It can also be infuriating, as you try in vain to clear the needles without dragging piles of gravel around

I spent many years working as a professional gardener in major public gardens. During that time, I raked and tidied gravel paths every Friday to prepare them for huge numbers of weekend visitors. After countless hours on this task, I found a spring-tine rake to be the best tool for raking gravel paths.

If I had to tell anyone how to remove pine needles from gravel, I would always say to use a spring-tine rake above any other gardening tool. This Husky wooden-handled steel rake at The Home Depot is a perfect example of the kit I used. With it, you can skim over the gravel and work through the stones to clear paths without disturbing the gravel too much.

Why You Should Remove Pine Needles From Gravel

A few pine needles might not seem like a big problem. True, it starts as a small issue, but as your pine tree continues to drop needles through fall, the potential problems add up. As a layer builds up, it becomes a job for your fall gardening checklist.

Pine needles become an eyesore in gravel landscaping. If you leave them to accumulate, they mat together, forming larger clumps that are difficult to get rid of. These matted needles also become a slip hazard, turning a garden path into a slimy threat.

As the pine needles break down, they release nutrients into the soil between and underneath the gravel. This creates a desirable and welcoming home for weed seeds to germinate, risking your gravel patio, driveway, or path becoming inundated with weeds.

Remove Pine Needles From Gravel Paths Like a Pro

What makes a spring-tine garden rake the most efficient way to remove pine needles from gravel paths? The clue is in the name; the flexible steel tines make them the best.

If you use other types of rakes, such as a bow rake or leaf rake with solid teeth, they are designed to grip and drag materials. Use them on a gravel path, and these rakes will dig into the surface and shift a mass of gravel as well as the needles.

The Husky wooden-handled steel rake has a 22-inch-wide head with 22 robust steel tines. These tines are perfect for lightly skimming across the gravel with short strokes to lift and flick pine needles from among the aggregate, rather than drag the gravel around.

I always found that short strokes that just swept the top layer of the gravel let the tines shift the needles and other debris. Some smaller pieces of gravel may be disturbed, but the base layer should remain undisturbed.

The technique takes some getting used to, but with a bit of practice you can sweep across the path or patio with a succession of short strokes to create a pile of needles and debris at the end to pick up.

The Husky wooden-handled steel rake has a 53-inch varnished eucalyptus hardwood handle – ideal for raking paths without bending excessively, which is great news if you have lots of gravel landscaping to deal with. The long handle makes it simple to flick the pine needles with short strokes along the path.

The tool is bolted together for heavy use and features a reinforced spring at the back for a long lifespan.

Beyond just raking paths, this spring-tine rake comes in handy for lots of seasonal gardening tasks, such as scarifying a lawn, collecting leaves, and gathering debris after pruning. Given how much action it’ll see, the fact that it comes with a lifetime guarantee is a major plus.

If you have a leaf blower, you can use it to remove pine needles from gravel, but it takes some finesse. It must be used on a low setting and angled so the air blows over the surface of the gravel. If you use a high setting or point the blower down into the gravel, you risk scattering the gravel far and wide.

Shop for Spring-Tine Rakes:

Don’t just throw away pine needles you collect from paths or driveways. Instead, add them to a compost heap or use them as fall mulch around shrubs and trees.

There was previously a concern about using pine needles as mulch because they were thought to make the soil more acidic. However, in recent years, this has been debunked, so you can use them without worrying about affecting your soil health.

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An autumn garden doesn't have to follow convention to be beautiful. In this garden in Tunbridge Wells, UK, the designer dared to be different, planting exotic tropicals alongside traditional perennials to create an immersive landscape that's full of surprises.

The brief was to transform a traditional 1980s lawned garden into an urban jungle where the client – a passionate plantsman – could indulge his love of bold foliage and rich textures found in both tropical plants and native planting. But there was one challenge for designer Karen McClure to overcome: the garden sits on a steep slope.

Rather than trying to disguise the gradient, Karen chose to work with it, making use of the existing borders and turning a previously underused space into an abundant planting scheme. Now, there's something unexpected to discover at every turn, making the garden feel a world away from its suburban setting.

‘When we first embarked on the design journey, the client had already recognised an opportunity to reimagine not just the garden itself, but its boundaries,’ says Karen McClure.

Beyond the existing fence was an overlooked area of land, where a magnificent mature tulip tree stood. It immediately became the anchor for the design, inspiring Karen to incorporate this unused space and extend the garden.

‘The tulip tree became the inspiration for an entirely new planting experience, allowing us to create an immersive, jungle-inspired landscape that feels both established and wonderfully unexpected,’ Karen says.

From there, the planting scheme took shape, bringing oversized foliage from tree ferns, palms, and Tetrapanax together with more familiar English garden favorites, including hydrangeas, ornamental grasses, and rudbeckia.

‘It was equally important to keep this bold landscape connected to the architecture of the house. The balance between strong, contemporary design and abundant, naturalistic planting gives it a distinctive character. A secret jungle in the heart of suburbia,’ Karen describes.

The natural sloping of the garden turned out to be a blessing when thinking about movement through the layout.

'We embraced the changes in level as an opportunity to introduce rhythm and a sense of journey through the space,' Karen says.

The garden unfolds across these different levels, with statement Schellevis garden steps guiding you through the layered planting.

‘We needed steps that provide both a strong architectural presence and a sense of understated simplicity. The large-format Schellevis steps offered the perfect solution,' Karen says.

Their generous proportions make the steps sculptural features in their own right, complementing the oversized tropical specimens. Yet naturalistic planting surrounds them and softens their edges, creating the impression that they are almost floating within the landscape.

‘We carefully considered the height, scale and structure of each planting layer, ensuring that the garden could be appreciated from multiple viewpoints – whether looking out across the landscape from the upper floors of the house or experiencing the planting at close quarters from within the garden itself,’ Karen says.

From above, the different layers of planting overlap and intertwine. At ground level, the experience is more immersive, with gravel paths leading you beneath the plant canopies that envelop you.

Tucked among the planting, three garden zones wait to be discovered. Each has its own purpose but they're all connected through a cohesive design.

‘The elevated dining terrace occupies the highest level, providing a wonderful vantage point from which to enjoy the garden. In contrast, the cozy seating area offers a place to retreat and pause. Here, the experience is quieter and more enclosed, with foliage creating a sense of privacy and escape,’ Karen explains.

At the lowest level, the client's love of horticulture is reflected in a non-negotiable potting shed, which provides both a practical workspace and a personal retreat for them to nurture plants and experiment with growing.

‘The functional spaces are carefully woven into the landscape, rather than the landscape simply providing a backdrop to them,’ Karen says.

The client's passion for experimentation is fundamental to the dramatic planting palette.

‘Every design begins with understanding the client, their personality, their relationship with the outdoors and, importantly, how they want their garden to make them feel,’ Karen explains.

‘For this project, we had the freedom to bring together the familiarity of traditional herbaceous perennials and ornamental grasses with the bold, architectural presence of more exotic species,’ she continues.

Red hot pokers stand among purple coneflowers and verbena, while fiery Helenium bring vivid splashes of color among fall planting. These flowers and seedheads sit alongside the oversized leaves of tropical plants, creating a rich landscape.

‘Rather than creating a garden that follows one particular horticultural style, we wanted to celebrate the diversity of plants and the beauty of combining them. The result feels characterful and joyful, yet considered,’ Karen says.

As with any garden, this extraordinary outdoor space will never quite be finished. With a client who is so enthusiastic and knowledgeable about plants, there are always new varieties to discover and unconventional planting combinations to experiment with.

For Karen, the garden is not a completed design, but a living landscape, shaped by the seasons, and the people who enjoy it.

‘We feel incredibly fortunate to have a client who shares that philosophy. Our relationship with this garden has continued long beyond its initial creation, and that ongoing collaboration is perhaps the most rewarding part of all.’

Garden design: Karen McClure Garden Design @karenmccluregardendesign

Main supplier: Corker

Photography: Rob Curd Got the Shot @gottheshotmedia

Salvias are a diverse range of plants with colorful flowers, textural and aromatic foliage, and an ability to attract pollinators in droves during the season. They are low-maintenance perennials that require some TLC in late fall to guarantee the best display next year, but exactly what they need in November depends on certain factors.

You should start preparing salvias for winter in November, if you haven’t already. The amount of care and protection required will be influenced by the type of salvia and your climate. Hardy salvias may need little more than mulching in colder zones, while tender varieties will want a little extra protection. If you grow salvias, make sure you know what category they fit into before doing anything this month.

Here is what to do with salvias in November, including hardy, borderline-hardy, and tender types. We outline four key tasks, not all of which will be relevant in every garden or for every salvia. If you are on the lookout for a really hardy salvia, consider Salvia nemorosa, such as this Salvia nemorosa ‘Marcus’ at Nature Hills, which is cold hardy down to zone 4.

1. Mulch All Salvias

Both hardy and tender salvias benefit from mulching this month. A thick layer of mulch protects plants from frost, like a thermal blanket insulating the roots against freezing temperatures. Mulch not only retains much-needed warmth in the ground, but also prevents frost heave from lifting a salvia out of the ground.

Wait, there is more. Two additional benefits of mulching are that it helps retain soil moisture and boosts soil nutrients as it breaks down. Your salvias will have access to essential nutrients and moisture when they wake in spring, so they’ll develop quickly and healthily. Combine this with some balanced fertilizer in early spring (like this all-purpose plant food at Burpee), and you’ll get a fantastic display next year.

Mulching is a win-win, helping both to winterize salvias and promote strong development come spring. The best types of mulch to apply this month are organic matter. This includes compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold. For example, this bag of compost and manure blend at The Home Depot is ideal for mulching salvias.

Apply a 2-4 inch layer around the salvia plants, but avoid piling it against the stems or the crown. Covering the plant retains excess moisture in the crown, which can lead to rot.

2. Cover or Lift Tender Salvias

Mulching salvias in flower beds is essential for tender varieties, including Salvia guaranitica, Salvia leucanths, and the extremely popular Salvia ‘Amistad’.

Their root systems will be eternally thankful for a thick layer of mulch to act as a barrier between them and freezing temperatures. Without winter protection, you can kiss goodbye to any chances of seeing their glorious flowers next year.

For extra protection, cover semi-hardy and tender salvias with frost cloth (also called row covers or horticultural fleece) ahead of winter. Ideally, pick a heavy-grade frost cloth, such as this heavyweight 2.0 oz/sq² cover on Amazon. Use garden hoops or bamboo poles (available at The Home Depot) to create a structure over the salvias, and secure the cover over the plants as well as to the ground.

Alternatively, if you have the space, lift tender salvias and bring plants indoors in November to escape the winter elements. Carefully lift the plants from the ground and put them into containers filled with well-draining compost, such as this Miracle-Gro potting mix on Amazon. The plants can spend winter in an unheated, frost-free greenhouse.

3. Move Any Salvia in Pots

If you grow salvias in pots, a simple way to protect them ahead of winter is to move pots together. Grouping pots creates a natural microclimate that traps heat and helps to insulate the delicate roots. It is important to winterize any salvias in pots, even hardy varieties, as their roots are more susceptible to frost in containers.

So where is best to put them? Gathering them against a fence or wall blocks cold winds, while keeping the pots next to the home allows them to take advantage of the warmth that permeates through the walls. Keeping them under an overhang or the eaves protects them against freezing rain.

If extremely cold nights are forecast, you can always wrap the pots in frost cloth or burlap. Insulated pot covers are available for winter use, such as these winter pot covers on Amazon.

To stop your salvias from waterlogging or sitting directly on cold, wet surfaces that can freeze over winter, raise them on pot feet. You can get a pack of 12 rubber pot feet at Walmart.

4. Gently Trim For Health Reasons

You shouldn’t heavily prune salvias at this time of year. The old growth helps protect the crown from winter damage, so it's best to keep it in place. However, some small-scale trimming can be done, but only in certain circumstances.

This includes removing dead, damaged, and diseased material, including any growth that shows signs of powdery mildew and grey mould. Those fungal diseases can overwinter on the plant and on any debris left around it to infect new growth when it starts coming through in spring.

Removing affected material and clearing away plant debris, such as leaves or stems that surround the salvia, stops next year’s stems from facing a battle with disease straight away.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools to cut down infected stems, and disinfect the pruners after use with household disinfectant to prevent spreading the disease when you do any other trimming.

What to Shop

Come November, most attention focuses on protecting plants for winter. There are still planting opportunities, though, so don’t overlook the potential to add to your garden this month.

If the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged, you can plant in November. These include spring bulbs like tulips, hyacinths, crocuses, and daffodils, along with bare-root shrubs, trees, or hedging plants.

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Pothos is one of the easiest houseplants to care for, but even this famously forgiving plant needs a little extra attention as November brings shorter days, cooler temperatures, and the start of the heating season. Also known as devil’s ivy, its trailing stems and glossy, heart-shaped leaves make it a popular choice for adding greenery to shelves, hanging planters and empty corners. However, the change in seasons can affect how well it grows, meaning a few adjustments to its usual care routine are worthwhile.

When it comes to pothos plant care, understanding how the changing seasons affect its growing conditions is key to keeping it healthy. As daylight becomes increasingly limited, pothos naturally slows its growth and needs less water and nourishment than it does during the warmer months. Indoor heating can also create drier conditions, while cold drafts from windows and doors can put this tropical plant under unnecessary stress.

Fortunately, there is no need for an extensive winter care routine. A little attention to watering, light and temperature will help keep your pothos looking its best throughout November and into the colder months ahead.

1. Reduce Watering as Growth Slows

One of the most important things to do with pothos in November is adjust your watering routine. As daylight hours decrease and temperatures cool, the plant's growth naturally slows, meaning it will use less water than it did during the growing season. Continuing to water as frequently as you did during spring and summer can leave the potting mix excessively wet, increasing the risk of root rot. Instead, check the soil before reaching for your watering can.

A good rule is to allow the top 1–2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. An XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a useful little investment if you're unsure when to water, giving you a clearer indication of how much moisture remains around the roots. Alternatively, a Bloem watering can from Target makes it easier to water directly into the soil without splashing the foliage or surrounding surfaces.

When it is time to water, give the plant a thorough drink until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot, then empty the saucer so the roots are not left sitting in water. Avoid following a rigid watering schedule, as the amount of moisture your pothos needs will depend on its position, pot size and indoor temperature. A plant in a bright, warm room may need watering more frequently than one in a cooler, shadier spot.

2. Move Your Pothos Somewhere Brighter

Although pothos is well known for tolerating lower-light conditions, November is a good time to reconsider where to place pothos in your home. With shorter days and weaker winter sunlight, a spot that provided plenty of light during summer may now be too dark.

Ideally, place your pothos somewhere that receives bright, indirect light. An east-facing window is a particularly good choice, while south- or west-facing windows can also work if the foliage is protected from harsh direct sunlight. If your plant needs raising closer to a window, an attractive plant stand from IKEA is a practical addition.

Variegated pothos varieties, such as Marble Queen and Pearls and Jade, need sufficient indirect light to maintain their distinctive leaf patterns. If your home is particularly dark, an LED grow light from Amazon can provide some additional illumination. Avoid leaving pothos in a dark corner simply because it tolerates shade, as its growth may slow and its foliage may lose some vibrancy.

3. Keep It Away From Cold Drafts and Radiators

Pothos is a tropical plant, so maintaining a relatively warm and consistent indoor temperature is important as November temperatures drop. Check where your plant is positioned, particularly if it sits on a windowsill, near an exterior door or close to a heating vent. Cold drafts can damage the foliage, while the hot, dry air from radiators and heating systems can cause leaves to develop brown, crispy edges.

Try to keep your pothos at a comfortable room temperature and avoid moving it between particularly warm and cold environments. A digital indoor thermometer and hygrometer from Amazon can help you monitor temperature and humidity around your plant.

If indoor heating makes the air particularly dry, a small Levoit cool-mist humidifier from Amazon can help improve the surrounding conditions. If you usually keep your pothos near a window, make sure its leaves are not touching cold glass, especially overnight.

4. Give the Leaves a Little Extra Attention

With less natural light in November, keeping your pothos leaves clean helps it make the most of the daylight it gets. Dust gradually accumulates on the broad, glossy leaves, so take a few minutes to wipe them gently with a soft, damp cloth, supporting each leaf as you clean. Alternatively, microfiber plant-cleaning gloves from Amazon make it easy to reach around delicate leaves and remove dust without damaging the foliage.

This is also a useful opportunity to inspect the plant more closely. Look underneath the leaves and along the stems for signs of common houseplant pests, including spider mites and mealybugs. If you spot an infestation, Bonide Insecticidal Soap can help tackle common pests, as long as the label lists your plant and the pest. Test on a small area first.

5. Hold Back on Fertilizer Until Spring

It can be tempting to keep feeding your pothos throughout the year, particularly if you are keen to encourage long, trailing stems. However, November is generally a good time to reduce or stop fertilizing. As the plant enters a period of slower growth, it has less need for the additional nutrients supplied by houseplant fertilizer. Continuing to feed when it is not actively growing can result in an unnecessary build-up of nutrients in the soil.

Put your regular feeding routine on hold for the winter, then resume using a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer once new growth begins to appear in spring. A Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from Walmart or Espoma Organic Indoor and Outdoor Plant Food from Amazon are both options to consider when it's time to restart feeding.

There is no need to compensate for slower growth by giving your plant additional fertilizer. Maintaining suitable light, temperature and watering conditions is far more important at this time of year.

6. Tidy Up Long or Damaged Vines

November is not the time for extensive pruning, but you can still prune pothos lightly if its stems have become particularly long, straggly or uneven. Use a pair of Fiskars Loop Micro-Tip Garden Snips from Amazon to remove damaged leaves and trim back any vines that have outgrown their space. This can help keep the plant looking neat, particularly if you grow it in a hanging basket or on a high shelf.

If you want to encourage a fuller appearance, you can also take a few stem cuttings to propagate new pothos plants. Each cutting should include at least one node, which is the small bump on the stem where roots can develop. Place the cuttings in a Fiskars glass propagation station filled with water until roots form.

However, if your pothos is looking healthy and you are happy with its shape, there is no need to prune it simply because November has arrived. More substantial pruning and repotting are generally best left until spring, when the plant is returning to active growth.

Pothos is easy to care for, but a few seasonal adjustments in November will help it through the winter. Focus on maintaining healthy foliage, avoiding overwatering and providing consistent warmth and light. With the right care now, your plant will be ready for fresh growth when spring arrives.

North America is not short of captivating birds. Whether resident species or fleeting migratory visitors from elsewhere, U.S. birdlife is rich and rewarding.

One native species that gardeners in some regions may see more of now, is the cedar waxwing (Bombycilla cedrorum). Why? Because these birds 'flock up' in the fall – and love berries. What's more, fall fruits can sustain them for some time.

Growing plants for birds is one of the best ways to encourage cedar waxwings to your yard. From shrubs, like this silky dogwood from Plant Addicts, to hawthorns and serviceberries, find out the fall favorites for these fruit-loving birds, according to experts.

Why You May Notice More Cedar Waxwings in the Fall

Cedar waxwings are resident year-round in the U.S., but their presence can be seen in different regions at different times – and not always predictably.

'As with many birds, when they are breeding in the summer, cedar waxwings may become quite difficult to spot, or may even leave your area,' explains Mhairi McFarlane, PhD, Habitat Stewardship Manager, Cornell Lab of Ornithology.

'However, they often start to congregate by late summer and can be found in quite large flocks during the winter. In general, during November, they are present from southern Canada coast to coast and as far south as northern Mexico and the Florida coast. They are sparse or absent in higher and drier desert systems in the west.'

Michael L. P. Retter, Editor, North American Birds, explains that in the summer when cedar waxwings are paired off, they are less likely to flock. 'In fall, they start to flock up, and as fall progresses, the flocks get larger. By winter you can see hundreds of birds together,' he says.

'Generally, cedar waxwings are around in the southern tier in the winter and in the northern tier in the summer. However, these frugivorous birds have to go where the fruit is,' says Michael.

'If it's been a good year for setting fruit, they will stick around, but if there has been a drought and there isn't much, they will move on, even to somewhere new. Their movements can be rather nomadic.'

What Attracts Cedar Waxwings?

As already outlined, these birds love fruit – and unlike many other avians – can survive on this diet for several months. Native trees, shrubs and plants with fall or winter berries are a "must-have" if you want to encourage cedar waxwings to your yard in November.

'Native fruit producing trees, shrubs and vines will attract and support cedar waxwings, and other birds,' says Mhairi. 'Select native plants which have fruit which persists as late as possible, including cedar, hawthorn and winterberry.

'Ideally, if you have space, include different native species which flower and fruit at different times, so you can support birds for longer.'

Native to North America, the appropriately named winterberry from Plant Addicts produces bright red berries through fall into winter. While the black berries on this Autumn Brilliance serviceberry tree from Nature Hill's attracts multiple bird species.

'Mulberries, native grapes, blackberries, hackberries, serviceberries and raspberries are their favorites,' says Michael. 'On the west coast, cedar waxwings love Toyon; they also eat juniper. In the eastern US and Canada, they love eastern red cedar, which is where they get their name from as they're often seen eating the cones.'

'Ornamental shrubs and trees in gardens with fruit and berries that remain on the plant into the late fall or winter could be a magnet for this nomadic species,' says Steve Roels, program director, American Bird Conservancy. 'A flock of waxwings could potentially show up in your garden if such fruit is abundant.'

How to Make Your Yard More Welcoming for Cedar Waxwings

Growing the trees and shrubs mentioned (that are native to your region), with staggered fruiting times, is the best way to support and encourage these charming creatures.

'Succession planting is ideal,' says Michael. 'We have a lot of native hollies in the U.S., so those are a good choice. In southern parts cedar waxwings adore Yaupon holly. In cooler areas out west, they love mountain ash too.'

Although cedar waxwings can survive on fruit alone for a while, they do eat insects and invertebrates too. Creating a welcoming habitat where these social birds can flock and forage for a protein source will also bring more of them to your yard.

'Cedar waxwings love fruit and eat it year-round, but they also supplement their diet with insects,' says Mhairi. 'Growing a suite of native plants supports the insect community which they and other birds need. A good mix would be native trees and shrubs which produce fruit, along with some native grasses and wildflowers to support a more complete ecosystem.'

Native to large swathes of the USA, this Blond Ambition Blue Grama Grass from Nature Hill's thrives in zones 3-10 and attracts pollinators and songbirds.

Provide A Water Source

Garden ponds, water features and bird baths all offer opportunities for cedar waxwings and other overwintering avians to sip and splash around, which is integral for their survival.

'Of course, the best thing we can do is plant their native food sources,' says Michael. 'But water is important, and particularly so for waxwings because of their fruit diet. When it's cold they start eating desiccated, dried and even fermented fruits. So they need to be hydrated in order to process it.'

Bird baths that are large, wide, and relatively shallow are best for these andmay other birds. 'At this time of year, cedar waxwings often rove around in flocks, so that gives everyone some space to bathe,' says Mhairi.

'In general, large water features, with a variety of depths, can support the largest variety of wildlife. Just make sure there are some shallow spots, with some rocks or logs in deeper zones to help smaller species clamber in and out.'

Mhairi recommends that any ground-mounted systems have some open, clear sides. 'This is so that birds have a good view of any approaching predators, and a clear escape route,' she says.

This large river stone bird bath from Etsy can be placed on the ground and can withstand all of the elements.

Plants To Avoid Growing

As worthwhile as growing the native trees, shrubs and plants that cedar waxwings thrive on, is avoiding those that harm them. These tend to be non-native species.

'Given the chance, cedar waxwings will eat nandina (heavenly bamboo),' says Michael. 'It has beautiful coral red fruits, but they are toxic to cedar waxwings as these birds didn't evolve to eat them.

'Another imported plant to avoid, that they love, is privet. It's not toxic to them but it's destructive to their habitat. Privet destroys woodlands and smothers out native plants that fruit at different times, leaving a monoculture that fruits for three weeks, so there is nothing left for them to eat.

'The same thing happens in the north with amur honeysuckle and tatarian honeysuckle, so they are best avoided too.'

'Taking care to plant only native shrubs for this species is best, because waxwings will readily disperse seeds and can facilitate the spread of non-native invasive shrubs like Japanese Barberry (Berberis thunbergii) and Amur Honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii),' adds Steve.

'Chemical analyses of fruits have shown that native shrubs tend to produce more nutrient-rich fruits than invasive plant species as well. Servicebery (Amelanchier spp.) Winterberry (Ilex verticillata), American Mountain Ash (Sorbus americana), and native hawthorns (Crataegus spp.) are attractive shrubs and small trees that will bring in Cedar Waxwings.'

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Prevent Window Strikes

Michael explains that because these birds eat fermented fruit and travel in big flocks, they're sometimes inebriated and distracted by their flock mates. 'A tipsy waxwing is more likely to fly into your window and kill itself than other bird species,' he says. 'It's common in late winter when fruit has fermented to find a group of waxwings that have perished from hitting a window.'

Michael recommends creating patterns of dots or lines on windows, whether applied with stickers, transfers or just a marker pen.

'Spacing dots or lines around 1.5-2 inches apart is very effective,' he says. 'Having a regular pattern breaks up the reflection that they are seeing. Windows and cats are the biggest cause of bird fatalities.'

'As a species that is very comfortable around our homes, it is important to note that waxwings are at risk from outdoor cats,' says Steve. 'They are especially vulnerable when feeding on low shrubs close to the ground. The easiest way to keep wild birds safe is to keep pet cats indoors.

'The landscaping that brings waxwings into our yards also increases the risk of window collisions. Treating home windows is an easy, inexpensive step and a problem anyone can help solve.'

This Avi-Dot bird saver window stencil from Etsy enables you to easily mark windows with removable dots, during migration seasons and other times when birds flock in large groups and are more prone to window strikes.

If cedar waxwings are resident in your region this season, the best way to feed these birds in winter is by growing their favorite native fruits and berries. Consider other ways to help them too, such as preventing window strikes, providing water, keeping cats indoors and removing harmful plants.

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Just because the days are getting shorter and temperatures are dropping, it doesn’t mean you can’t still have a colorful, textural garden.

I have been on a quest for winter garden ideas and found some special heucheras that are guaranteed to impress. The new Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series is inspired by dragon lore and features deep, rich foliage and unique serrated foliage like dragon wings.

If you want something different for year-round color and a plant sure to become a talking point in your garden, any of the seven new heuchera varieties in the line tick all the right boxes. Of all of them, I am a fan of the heuchera Fyre Wing ‘Heliodor’ (available at Plant Addicts) with lime-green foliage tinted with orange when young. The foliage appears to glow and will remain evergreen in milder climates.

What Are Heuchera Fyre Wing Plants

Heuchera, also known as coral bells, makes a great winter plant for pots and borders. The gorgeous perennial plants are suited to a wide variety of climates, from USDA hardiness zones 4-9

When planning a winter garden, some of the best plants have vibrant foliage year-round for interest and structure. Plants like heuchera, winter heather, ophiopogon, and bergenia tick all those boxes.

Heuchera are evergreen in milder climates and semi-evergreen in colder areas. The wide palette of foliage makes heuchera so popular. The color spectrum runs from neon green to warm peach to almost black, with varieties like Heuchera 'Caramel' (available at Nature Hills) and Heuchera 'Palace Purple' among the most popular.

The foliage of different heucheras can be smooth, ruffled, lacy, or hand-shaped. However, the Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series has been bred to showcase a new, unique foliage form. This sets it apart from others and will really stand out in any garden.

The series is a range inspired by dragon lore and precious gemstones. Each has foliage that echoes its namesake gem and unfurls like finely laced dragon wings.

Speaking about the heuchera Fyre Wing series, Chuck Pavlich, director of new product development at Terra Nova Nurseries, claims the series has a ‘one in a million quality’. He said upon release: ‘The deeply cut, lace-like foliage creates a level of texture and dimension that hasn't existed until now.’

How to Use Fyre Wing Plants

The seven varieties in the Terra Nova heuchera Fyre Wing series range in shade from the lime green ‘Heliodor’ to the black ‘Jet’.

There is likely a plant to match any garden style or planting scheme. The emerald-green ‘Jadeite’ (get a Fyre Wing Jadeite Heuchera at Plant Addicts) will freshen up mixed plantings, while the purple-bronze ‘Spinel’ can provide real contrast against brighter colors or white blooms in flower beds or containers.

In seasonal plantings, the rich golden ‘Amber’ and the copper of ‘Hematite’ (get a Fyre Wing Hematite Heuchera at Plant Addicts) complement existing fall color around the yard and work well with the blue, burgundy, or cream blooms of winter-flowering violas, pansies, or primroses.

Each in the Fyre Wing series features the eye-catching, deeply cut, dragon wing-like foliage, with many leaf colors developing over the season. The plants suit zones 4-9, can grow in sun or part-shade, and range from 7-11 inches tall and 12-14 inches wide, depending on the variety.

This makes them suitable for beds, borders, or growing coral bells in pots. If you are looking to add a bit of magic to your yard, these dramatic heucheras are guaranteed to do just that. Plant them along the edges of flower beds for drama, or as focal pieces in a large container or planter. You can rely on them to put on a show year-round and attract the attention of guests.

If you're after a bit of magic or lore in your yard, each variety in the Fyre Wing range comes with a birth certificate detailing the dragon’s provenance and claw print illustrations which are indicative of the foliage and the gemstone.

This added depth and mythology, along with the rare textural foliage, can support other enchanting backyard spaces, such as fairy gardens or the moonlighting trend that creates a magical feel when the sun goes down. Imagine some subtle lighting showcasing the dragon wing foliage on a darker evening.

Shop the Terra Nova Heuchera Fyre Wing Series

By carefully curating your garden with unique plants that offer vibrant color and interesting visuals year-round, you can have a beautiful space throughout the colder months.

A key part of maintaining heucheras or coral bells (whatever you prefer to call them) is knowing when to trim them each season.

As evergreen plants, pruning them in the fall robs you of any winter color. Fall trimming also exposes the tender crown to frost. The take-home message is to never cut back coral bells in the fall; instead, always do it in spring. Enjoy the plant’s winter color and texture, and add the task to your spring gardening checklist.

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Finding the perfect gift for the gardener in your life is all about choosing something that makes time spent outdoors even more enjoyable. Whether they love getting their hands dirty with planting and pruning, growing their own flowers and vegetables, or simply unwinding in the garden with a good book, there are plenty of thoughtful gifts to suit every kind of outdoor enthusiast.

In this gift guide, you'll find everything from the essential gardening tools that are often overlooked to stylish accessories and thoughtful finishing touches that make time spent outdoors even more enjoyable. We've brought together ideas to suit every kind of gardener, whether they enjoy tending to flower beds, growing their own produce or creating a beautiful space in which to relax.

Whether you're shopping for a keen grower, a garden design enthusiast or someone who simply loves spending time outside, we've curated 20 thoughtful garden gifts to inspire you – each one chosen to bring a little more joy to their favourite outdoor space.

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Now is a crucial time for the Christmas cactus, with its blooming period just around the corner. What you do over the coming weeks could make or break your display, so it's more important than ever to protect this holiday houseplant and stop its buds from falling off.

Christmas cactus care can be particular, with it needing a dark period and stable conditions to guarantee blooms by the holidays. Humidity is a key part of this to ensure those buds stay attached; if yours are dropping off, it likely means the air in its current room is too dry. That's why houseplant pros recommend keeping your Christmas cactus in the bathroom, where it can soak up extra moisture.

Here, they explain why this can make a difference and save your festive blooms – don't forget to also pick up one of the best pots to display a trailing Christmas cactus and a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to support your plant care.

The Problem with Fall

Despite its name, the Christmas cactus is actually a succulent. It's native to tropical rainforests in coastal mountain regions of south-eastern Brazil, where it thrives in higher humidity levels.

As per fall houseplant care, it's important to be aware of how our indoor heating can dry out the air and dehydrate moisture-loving houseplants, like Christmas cacti. As a result, these plants can drop their buds before they get the chance to open up, sabotaging your holiday blooms.

But, it isn't a lack of humidity alone that can cause bud drop: moving your Christmas cactus can result in bud drop if the conditions significantly change, due to these succulents needing a stable growing environment.

'The trick with a Christmas cactus is to leave it alone once the buds appear. Moving it, or letting the temperature swing when the heating turns on and off, makes it drop buds before they open,' explains Morgan Brooks, the Founder and Editor at Plant Style Home.

This means that moving your already-budded Christmas cactus to a bathroom that is significantly cooler and darker than its current position is risky and may also result in bud drop. However, if your Christmas cactus is struggling with humidity, relocating to a bathroom with stable conditions can be a lifeline – or relocate it to the bathroom after this flowering season for more success next year.

You can use this humidity meter from Walmart to determine where is best for your Christmas cactus, with 50-70% being the ideal window.

Why Keep Your Christmas Cactus in the Bathroom?

One of the easiest ways to increase humidity for indoor plants is by keeping them in the bathroom. The best bathroom plants are those that love some extra moisture, as they can handle the humidity from shower steam.

'As long as the bathroom has good natural light a Christmas cactus will thrive there. They love mist and humidity,' says plant expert and interior plant designer, Shane Pliska.

'Many people assume because 'cactus' is in the name that the Christmas cactus must require an arid environment. These are in fact epiphytes native to tropical rainforests and love humidity,' he explains.

Don't forget, however, that this won't automatically fix your Christmas cacti's bud drop. Your bathroom still needs to be bright and warm (between 60-70°F) to help your plant retain its buds and stay happy.

Likewise, if your Christmas cactus is already budding and your bathroom is too cool or dark, it's best to turn to other methods to boost humidity. This includes using a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) or even a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

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There are a few other Christmas cactus mistakes to be aware of to ensure you still get a beautiful festive display. This includes watering your plant too frequently – these succulents are susceptible to houseplant root rot, so it's best to let the top few inches of soil dry out.

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New houseplant varieties are constantly being introduced, bringing fabulous silhouettes, colors, and patterns that quickly become must-haves for indoor plant collectors. One trend that's been steadily gaining popularity is golden houseplants, with vibrant yellow-toned foliage standing out amongst more familiar deep greens.

Costa Farms' indoor plant expert and author of the upcoming book The New Complete Guide to Houseplants (available to pre-order from Amazon), Justin Hancock, says golden foliage is a trend he's seen gradually finding its way into households over the past year, and one he expects to continue growing as we head into 2027. Think chartreuse foliage brightening up darker corners and lime-green vines cascading down bookshelves. For Justin, the appeal reflects a growing understanding of the mood-boosting effects houseplants can have.

'The stereotypical deep green leaves of popular houseplants are starting to fade into the background, while golden foliage calls your attention and can't be ignored,' he says.

Brightening Up Interiors

In recent years, variegated houseplants have been all the rage, bringing intriguing colors and patterns into our homes. Now, another foliage trend is catching the attention of plant parents: golden leaves.

'I've been seeing gold houseplants slowly rise in popularity,' says Justin. 'It makes sense. In darker homes, bright golden foliage really adds something, while deep green leaves don't stand out,' he continues.

This is especially true considering many golden plants (like this golden pothos from Amazon) can tolerate lower light, making them ideal picks for duller spots in the home – though, they will usually grow best in bright, indirect light.

There's also a growing interest in the ways houseplants can influence our mental and physical wellbeing. From the principles of Feng Shui, which associate certain plants with abundance and positive energy, to research into houseplants that improve our microbiome, and even indoor plants that clean the air.

'I really appreciate having houseplants all around me. There's just something about taking a moment to look away from your work screen and observe plant leaves in your office, for example. It can soothe the eyes,' Justin describes.

Golden houseplants add to this, offering a visual lift through their brighter foliage. Their vibrant leaves bring a sense of light to interiors, exuding a richness that is emphasized when paired with a sophisticated vessel, like golden hammered plant pot from Wayfair (our collection of stylish houseplant pots has more to discover).

The Best Golden Houseplants

As for finding the perfect golden houseplant for your home, Justin has a few recommendations (and don't forget to stock up on your essential houseplant care kit to help keep your new plant happy).

Neon Pothos

'Neon pothos is a classic,' says Justin.

With bright chartreuse foliage and a fast-growing trailing habit, this is one of the best pothos varieties for golden and lime-green foliage. The best part? It's super straightforward to care for.

'I have been seeing more interest and uptake in a lot of the, the easy care varieties. As our collections grow, there's something to be said for having those plants that I don't need to fuss over,' Justin says.

Find a neon pothos at Walmart. Give it a bright-medium light position out of direct sun (which may scorch its delicate leaves), allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before watering, and use a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) to give it a humidity boost.

Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile'

Something a little bit more unusual, Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile' is Justin's favorite golden houseplant.

'It's really fun. It has toothed leaves that are long and narrow,' he describes.

Only introduced to the market within the last three years, this philodendron is one of the best for bright yellow color and interesting texture. It's almost fern-like in its foliage, doing best in bright light, out of direct sunlight and cold drafts.

You can find a Philodendron 'Golden Crocodile' at Lowe's.

Dracaena 'Limelight'

As for an indoor tree, Dracaena 'Limelight' reaches a height of 5-7ft, topped with sword-shaped glossy golden foliage.

These golden houseplants are best kept in brighter light to maintain their vibrancy and should be kept warm in temperatures between 65-85°F to avoid discoloration and drooping. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) can also help identify when the top 1-2 inches of soil have dried out, indicating it's time to water again.

Pick up a Dracaena 'Limelight' from Amazon.

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The bonus of introducing some golden houseplants to your interiors now is that it'll bring some fall color indoors. Alongside the best indoor plants for fall, and even golden fall plants in your yard, you can turn your home and garden into the ultimate seasonal display.

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As its name suggests, Mother of Thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) is a succulent with a reputation for multiplying. Hailing from Madagascar and also known as the alligator plant or Mexican hat plant, it readily reproduces on its own and is also incredibly easy to propagate.

Commonly grown as an indoor succulent, a Mother of Thousands grows to three feet tall and its fleshy leaves are edged with small plantlets. These plantlets fall from the plant but also offer the quickest way to propagate Mother of Thousands, as they are readily available and root easily.

Mother of Thousands differs from Mother of Millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis), but both plants are straightforward to propagate. If you know how to propagate Mother of Thousands, you can expand your indoor plant collection and have new plants for friends, family, and neighbors. Here are two ways to do it: from plantlets and from cuttings. For both, you need a good houseplant soil, like this organic indoor potting mix on Amazon.

How to Propagate Mother of Thousands From Plantlets

It is easy to get lots of new Mother of Thousands plants using the baby plantlets that form all along the leaf margins. These small offsets root easily, so effortlessly that they often fall from the plant and root wherever they land.

This is not desirable; you can end up with lots of babies where you don’t want them. Thankfully, you can propagate Mother of Thousands in a less chaotic way using these baby plantlets in 4 simple steps:

• Remove the baby plantlets: Mother of Thousands is an easy houseplant to propagate in fall and winter, when the plantlets are mature and drop naturally. It is not limited to then, though, as you can propagate mature plantlets throughout the year. Mature plantlets have tiny leaves and some mini roots. When they show all the right characteristics, gently remove them from the leaves with your fingers or tweezers (available at Walmart) before they fall off on their own. To boost your chances of success, make sure they have at least two or three roots when you detach them.
• Put the plantlets in soil: Prepare trays or small pots with a well-draining potting mix. The best material to propagate plants in is a mix formulated especially for cuttings, like this plant propagation potting mix on Amazon. Put the separated plantlets on the surface and gently push the roots into the potting mix. Don’t bury the plantlets deeply; they just need contact with the soil to establish roots. They naturally fall from the plant and root wherever they land, which is evidence they don’t need precision planting to start growing. Place the container of plantlets where they can get lots of bright, indirect sunlight.
• Mist the plantlets: Keep the soil damp, but not too wet. The safest way is to mist the soil after you plant the babies, then repeat when the soil dries out. It would be a houseplant propagation mistake to waterlog the soil, as that will certainly result in the plantlet rotting rather than rooting. You can get a vintage glass mister at Walmart that makes a beautiful addition to any propagation station.
• Replant once roots form: After a few weeks, the plantlets will likely have developed a new root system. At this point, pot them up into an individual container. Always wait for a good root system to develop. A good sign they have rooted is when you feel some resistance when you gently pull – only gently, as you don’t want to risk snapping those fresh roots. Use a well-draining potting soil for indoor plants, like this houseplant potting soil at Amazon. Carefully lever the baby plant out of the soil and place it into the new pot. Bury the roots, but keep the foliage above the soil line. Water gently and keep the soil moist but not too wet going forward.

How to Propagate Mother of Thousands From Cuttings

Mother of Thousands is also an easy houseplant to grow from stem cuttings in late spring to early summer. It is a slower way to start new plants than by plantlets, but it is a reliable method.

Taking plant cuttings is a way to trim back tall or leggy plants and get new specimens for a houseplant collection. Here’s how to propagate Mother of Thousands from cuttings:

1. Take a 2-4 inch cutting of a healthy stem with a pair of sharp pruning snips (available at Amazon)
2. Place the cutting somewhere warm and dry to callus over for a few days
3. Dip the base of the cutting in rooting hormone (you can get rooting hormone powder from Walmart)
4. Place the cutting into a pot filled with a succulent potting mix (like this at Amazon)
5. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity
6. Place the container where it can get lots of bright, indirect light
7. Water lightly and don’t water again until the soil starts drying out
8. Once the cutting has developed roots after a few weeks, it can be potted up

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Growing Mother of Thousands might not be for every household, as the foliage is toxic to pets. All parts of the plant are toxic if ingested by cats, dogs, or humans.

If you have an inquisitive pet at home, our guide to the best pet-safe indoor plants includes alternatives you may prefer.

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Rosemary is a glorious, almost universally popular Mediterranean shrub. It offers a wonderful combination of evergreen foliage, delicate flowers, and, of course, the aromatic foliage it is famous for. Whether you use rosemary for culinary, medicinal, or skincare purposes, the plant often needs TLC to prepare it for winter, and November is a prime time to put a plan in place.

The plant, now known as Salvia rosmarinus rather than the Rosmarinus officinalis name it was known by for many years, can be moved indoors for winter or left outdoors and given protection from the elements. Cold, wet winter conditions do pose a danger to plants, but they are fairly easy to prevent – especially if you know what to do with rosemary plants in November.

Rosemary is hardy in US hardiness zones 8-10 and can overwinter outdoors in zone 7 with some protection. Gardeners in colder climates need to protect their plants this month. If you want to grow rosemary in these zones without the extra effort, plant a cold-hardy variety like ‘Arp’. You can buy a pack of 4 live Rosemary ‘Arp’ plants on Amazon suitable for cold climates down to US hardiness zone 6.

Move Potted Rosemary Indoors

Growing herbs in pots is a vital way for anyone with small spaces or heavy soil to cultivate Mediterranean plants like rosemary, thyme, and oregano. If you get cold winters, you can overwinter rosemary in containers by bringing it indoors to see it through the freezing months.

It is an ideal solution for anyone in US hardiness zone 7 or below, where winters get too cold for rosemary. Even in milder climates, it is recommended to at least move pots to a protected area in the yard, as plants in containers are never as hardy as their in-ground counterparts.

Bring potted plants indoors to a bright position where they can get six to eight hours of sunlight daily, such as a sunny windowsill. Do this in November before nighttime temperatures consistently get down to under 45°F. You should check the plant for pests before bringing it indoors – any unwanted guests can be dealt with by spraying the plant with insecticidal soap, available at Walmart.

Large rosemary shrubs will need to remain outdoors and be protected in another way – which we’ll get to next. But smaller plants can be lifted from the ground and potted up into containers filled with a well-draining potting mix, such as this organic potting mix from Burpee.

Cover Plants for Cold Nights

In zones 7 and below, rosemary plants are grateful for added protection against freezing temperatures that can blacken the evergreen foliage or cause dieback.

This can be done in several ways in November. A strong solution is to cover smaller rosemary plants with a portable cold frame (like this polycarbonate cold frame at The Home Depot) to provide essential insulation and safeguard against plunging temperatures, cold wind, and freezing rain over winter.

Such a fix doesn’t need to be permanent for the entire season, especially if you don’t get prolonged deep freezes. Frost cloth or old sheets can be put over the plants for freezing nights and taken off again during the day.

In preparation, build a tent-like structure over the rosemary plants with bamboo canes (also available at The Home Depot). Then you can put the material over that and tie it in place when needed, rather than place it directly onto the rosemary, as the frost cloth can freeze itself to the plant and rip the leaves or bark when you attempt to remove it.

You can use frost cloth (also known as horticultural fleece), burlap, blankets, or old bed sheets to protect against frost. The one material to avoid is plastic, as it encourages moisture and makes the plant more susceptible to mold.

Mulch Plants

Mulching around the roots is a proven way to protect rosemary plants’ roots from freezing winter weather. It’s a job to do before the ground freezes this month, so add it to your fall gardening checklist for the coming weeks.

It is a sound tactic in zone 7 and below, especially key in zones 6 and 5, because it insulates the roots, prevents frost heave, and helps smother weeds. Even in zone 8, where the plant may not need winter protection so urgently, mulching rosemary in the fall brings benefits, especially for younger plants that may not be fully established.

The crucial aspect with rosemary is choosing the right type of mulch. Many plants want compost or well-rotted manure, but these hold lots of moisture over winter, and rosemary dislikes sitting in cold, wet soil.

Instead, use lighter materials for rosemary, such as straw (you can get a bag of garden straw mulch at Lowe’s), shredded leaves, pine needles, or bark chips. These insulate the ground and protect the roots, without risking holding excess water and causing rot.

Lightly Prune Plants

You can lightly trim rosemary in November, but definitely don’t do any hard pruning. It is a quick tidy rather than a major overhaul, and certainly never prune into the oldest woody stems at this time of year.

If the plant will be outdoors in winter, keep your rosemary pruning this month to removing dead, damaged, or diseased stems. This will help keep it healthy over the upcoming winter.

If you are bringing the plant indoors for winter, you can do a bit more shaping or trimming to make it fit better on a windowsill. You should still be able to carefully harvest rosemary over winter indoors, but do so sparingly and don’t cut large swathes of stems.

Always use clean, sharp pruning tools for any pruning in November. A pocket-sized tool sharpener like this from Amazon can quickly sharpen the blade of any pruners or loppers.

Reduce Watering

It has been mentioned more than once here that rosemary doesn’t like sitting in wet soil. Come November, you can most likely stop watering rosemary plants growing outdoors, unless they are in a cold frame or a protected area where they don’t get much natural rainfall.

It can be easy to overwater outdoor plants – unfortunately, rosemary and waterlogged soil don’t play well together, and the usual result is root rot. Take extra care with watering plants this month and consider using a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, to see how much water is already in the soil before adding any more.

Lift rosemary in outdoor containers on pot feet so they drain well, and remove any saucers from underneath to stop them sitting in water. You can get a pack of rubber, non-slip pot feet at Walmart.

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Rosemary plants can get woody and leggy over the years. You can do some hard pruning in spring and early summer to revitalize woody rosemary plants, cutting as low as possible without going into the bare wood.

Around the same time, it may also be advisable to propagate rosemary from cuttings in case your shrubs don’t respond as you’d like. You’ll get exact clones of the existing bush that can replace your old ones down the line.

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Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus) are one of the most popular Christmas bulbs, with slender stems topped by dainty white, highly fragrant blooms. They brighten up interiors for the holidays and make for exquisite living arrangements, but success in growing them is all to do with planting the bulbs at the right time.

If you're considering forcing bulbs indoors for the holidays, now is the time to pick up your paperwhite bulbs (which you can find at Walmart). Growing paperwhites is fairly straightforward: plant them 4-6 weeks before you want blooms, provide plenty of bright light, and keep them consistently watered.

But, it isn't as straightforward as planting and leaving them alone. Here, a flower growing expert talks through the exact window to plant your paperwhite bulbs for Christmas and two different methods to use (pick up an elegant bulb vase to get started).

When to Plant Paperwhites

Paperwhites are some of the best indoor bulbs to force for Christmas, and you can grow them in both soil and water. Either way, a bit of planning is needed to time planting in time for a holiday display.

'I grow hundreds of paperwhites each year to keep the flowers blooming over winter. Most paperwhites start blooming 4-6 weeks from planting,' says flower farmer-florist, Joey McFarland.

'Since the blooms themselves will last for a week or more once they’ve opened, it’s best to start on the earlier side. I recommend starting Christmas paperwhites by mid-November,' she continues.

Forcing spring-flowering bulbs essentially works by providing the bulbs with an ideal growing environment indoors prior to the natural, seasonal conditions. It tricks them into breaking dormancy and blooming earlier than they're meant to.

Unlike other indoor bulbs, like hyacinths (this hyacinth forcing vase from Amazon is ideal for these bulbs), crocus, and tulips, paperwhites don't require a chilling period to trigger growth. This is thanks to their Mediterranean native habitat, where the milder winter conditions are enough to trigger growth – warmth and moisture indoors does the trick.

If you want flowering paperwhites indoors throughout the holiday season and beyond, plant new bulbs every two weeks from October to January and enjoy staggered blooming.

Keep in mind that temperature can also influence the speed of growth. Warmer temperatures between 68-75°F can encourage faster blooming, sometimes as soon as three weeks after planting. If you want to delay blooming, position your planted paperwhites in a cooler spot (between 65-70°F, which you can monitor with this Walmart room thermometer). This will also help encourage sturdier stems as the shoots appear.

As for how to go about planting them, there are two different techniques to use: either in water or soil.

How to Grow Paperwhites in Water

'My preferred planting method is in water. Select a vessel at least four inches tall. Fill the bottom 2-3 inches with pebbles or stones. Nestle your paperwhite bulbs into the stones. Fill with water until it’s just touching the bottom of the bulbs. Soon the bulbs will start forming roots,' says Joey.

To force bulbs in water successfully, Joey says to take care not to submerge the bulbs in the water, as this can cause rot.

'Paperwhites can grow quite tall so using a taller vessel can help support the heavy stems. You can also stake them or tie them together with a festive ribbon,' Joey recommends.

This tall bulb forcing glass from Amazon is designed to keep the paperwhite bulb out the water to avoid this issue.

Don't forget to refresh the water frequently to keep it clean and topped up. A houseplant watering can with a narrow spout (like this black metal one from Amazon) can make this much more convenient to do.

How to Grow Paperwhites in Soil

Even though paperwhites are one of the best indoor bulbs to grow in water, it is just as straightforward to force bulbs in soil – opt for this Wayfair terracotta pot to get the rustic look above.

It's best to choose a shallow container with a drainage hole to manage moisture. A well-draining potting mix is also wise, like this Miracle-Gro potting mix from Lowe's.

The pointed side of the bulb should be facing upwards, but you don't need to bury the bulb – leave the neck exposed.

Keep the bulbs well-watered but not soggy. Brighter light will also keep the stems upright and avoid flopping.

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As well as using forced bulbs for festive arrangements, consider adding some holiday houseplants into the mix. Paperwhites look beautiful among red poinsettias, for example, and can add some height alongside your Christmas cactus.

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With a sprinkling of luck and a little low sunlight to set off your star plants, November can be a beautiful month in the garden. In fact, it can be golden. Which is exactly what we need to keep the spirits high when the nights are drawing in.

To help your backyard shine this month, I've picked a stellar line-up of trees, shrubs, perennials and grasses for a November glow. From the butter-yellows of fall foliage stars and the last dahlias to the burnished buff and amber of some of my favourite ornamental grasses, it's a palette to warm and soothe the soul.

While it may be tempting to leave the fall gardening jobs at the gate and hunker down inside, I promise you won't regret getting out there on a sunny day and appreciating what's looking good. And if you find your garden lacking, it's not too late. There's still time to plant before the frosts set in, whether that's for fall interest or for the gardening year to come. I've got my eye on a 'Brooks Road' Ginkgo tree from Garden Good Direct – its neat upright shape is perfect for smaller gardens like mine.

Mahonia

For golden late-fall colour in flower form, top prize has to go to the wonderful group of shrubs that are mahonias.

Most begin flowering in late autumn and continue until early spring, with long flower spikes decked in lily-of-the-valley-scented yellow-orange blooms, which are a magnet for hungry late-season pollinators. In fact, they're one of a select group of plants that look better in fall than summer.

So what comes first in any mahonia growing guide? You need to know that they're ideal for the back of a shaded or partly shaded border, where their dramatic glossy green evergreen spiked foliage creates a handsome foil for a huge range of other shade-tolerant shrubs and perennials.

They're tough, easygoing plants too, thriving in most kinds of soil and needing very little in the way of pruning or shaping. Just let them get on with it and they'll flower for years.

Some of the best varieties for the earliest flowers include Mahonia nitens 'Cabaret' (USDA Zones 6-8), which begins its flowering display in late summer, its orange buds opening to cheerful yellow. Mahonia 'Volcano' (USDA Zones 7-9) begins to bloom in September, with coppery buds opening to golden yellow.

Then there's Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun', (USDA Zones 5-9) a November starter with sunny yellow flowers – its grows to around 16ft (5m), so it's one for a big garden. Finally, try Mahonia 'Soft Caress' (USDA Zones 5-9) from Perfect Plants, a more compact variety with no prickles and bright yellow flowers from late autumn to early spring.

Ginkgo Biloba

Plant a Ginkgo biloba and you'll be investing in one of the most ancient trees to exist, its fossils dating back 170 million years.

More importantly perhaps, you'll be providing year-round joy in the garden, with a spectacular burst of butter-yellow fall foliage to enjoy in November.

Ginkgo, or the maidenhair tree, is one for a large garden, as it will eventually grow to around (25m). How to grow a ginkgo tree? Well, the basics are that it thrives in a sunny spot in any kind of soil and won't need pruning, but do put in some decent tree stakes to stabilise it in its formative years. 'Autumn Gold', available from Nature Hills, is a particularly colorful cultivar.

Feather Reed Grass

'Karl Foerster' is one of my favorite ornamental grasses, brilliant in smaller backyards too as it's very neat and upright, shooting up in early spring, flowering in summer then holding on to its handsome soft yellow-buff seedheads right into winter.

When you're thinking about landscaping with ornamental grasses, planted en masse (find feather reed grass at Nature Hills), it makes a useful and beautiful feathery screen to around 6ft (1.8m) in height in a sunny spot. Ideal for USDA Zones 5-9.

It needs nothing more than to be cut down to the ground in late winter so it can begin its growth cycle once more.

Carex Testacea

One of the brightest, most vibrant ornamental grasses in fall, Carex testacea is a tough New Zealand native with elegant arching leaves that turn yellow-orange in fall.

Most aren't too challenging in terms of how to grow ornamental grasses. This one is no exception, growing to around 2ft (60cm) in height and spread – the cultivar 'Prairie Fire', available at Nature Hills, is particularly colorful.

Plant it towards the front of a border, somewhere the low fall sun will light up its foliage – it deserves that forethought, and you'll love the glowing result.

Combined with dahlias in fall tones (see below) it's glorious. It's also good in a pot, ideally a nice tall one so the fountain-like foliage can cascade unimpeded over the sides.

USDA Zones 6-10

Witch Hazel

This large shrub or small tree is one of the best witch hazel varieties – you can buy American witch hazel at Garden Goods Direct.

It's stunning during the cooler months of the year when, from mid fall, its flowers open like pale yellow crumpled pompoms or spiders, with a sweet, almost clove-like perfume, and the leaves turn to golden tones.

This is the witch hazel from which medicinal witch-hazel extract is made, and it's a fantastic plant, reaching around 23ft (7m) with handsome spreading branches.

Plant it in sun or part shade, in a sheltered spot tucked away from harsh winds. Underplanted with Carex testacea it makes a stunning fall focal point in a large backyard.

Hydrangea Petiolaris

A much underrated plant in my opinion, the climbing hydrangea offers so much throughout the seasons. In summer, its flat white sprays of flowers cover the plant, while in fall its leaves turn a charming soft yellow before they fall. Even in winter its deep rust-brown textured stems bring interest.

It's super useful too, growing up and over a north-facing wall or fence with grace and elegance where little else thrives. I have one covering a deeply shaded fence, where it's incredibly happy.

In the border below it Mahonias add to the golden glow in fall. You can buy climbing hydrangea at Garden Goods Direct. How to grow a climbing hydrangea really isn't too challenging either, it just needs some decent soil and a touch of patience.

USDA Zones 4-8

Dahlias

It's true that most dahlias are at their peak in around September, but there are plenty that are going strong into November, especially if you live in a sheltered spot or one of the warmer, more western US Zones.

In mid to late autumn it's mainly the pompom, ball and smaller dahlias that are still flowering – simply because the huge dinnerplate varieties use up their flowering energy more quickly.

And they'll go on until the first frosts if you keep cutting back the spent flower stems – one of the most important aspects of learning how to grow dahlias. 'Yellow Jill', 'Golden torch', 'Sunny Boy' are particularly well known for their extended flowering periods, so look out for them online.

I tend to grow my dahlias in pots, then at this time of year pop them into gaps in borders. The yellow ones combine particularly well with the ornamental grasses I mentioned earlier, Carex testacea and Calamagrostis 'Karl Foerster', creating pools of honeyed light in the garden.

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A big mistake a lot of gardeners make at this time of year is to give up on their outdoor space. There's still so much pleasure to be had, and fall is the perfect time of year to plant.

Enjoy the pleasures of the late season garden with my seven glorious picks for a golden fall garden. They'll bring joy to the garden and happiness to your soul.

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Alpines are tough plants, popular for being pretty, hardy, versatile, and low-maintenance. You may not think that this rugged group of plants needs winter protection, but neglect them at your own risk. The one thing that harms alpines in winter more than anything else is wetness.

Cold isn’t usually an issue over winter, but waterlogging during the colder months is an alpine plant’s nemesis. Stopping them from sitting wet for extended periods is key to overwintering alpine plants.

Thankfully, overwintering alpine plants isn’t too difficult. Either cover rock garden plants in situ with a cold frame, mini greenhouse (such as this at The Home Depot), or a cloche, and move potted ones indoors for winter. This prevents the roots or crown from rotting. Maintaining airflow is vital too, so fungal issues don’t build up and affect plants over winter.

The Hidden Danger of Winter Wet

Alpine plants naturally grow in tough conditions, often at high altitudes and in climates with intense sun, strong winds, and cold winters. Over the years, they have evolved to cope with these harsh environments.

For home gardens, this means alpines are drought-tolerant plants that can thrive in poorer soils. These low-maintenance plants need little watering or feeding once established, which has helped make them popular choices over the years.

With that in mind, overwintering alpine plants might sound unnecessary. However, one key difference between their natural habitats and most home gardens makes overwintering plants a balancing act – and one you need to get right.

It is not freezing temperatures that usually kill alpine plants in winter; it is waterlogging. Alpine plants usually grow at altitude and sit under an insulating layer of snow over winter. These winters are cold and dry. The snow protects them from icy winds and rain, and when it melts, the lean, rocky soil drains quickly.

This is not often the case in home gardens, where winters are usually wet and mild. Alpines aren’t protected from freezing rain, waterlogged soil, or repeated freezing and thawing, which can lift plants from the soil (known as frost heave). Long periods of sitting in cold, sodden soil can signal the demise of alpines.

The danger stems from the fact that alpines don’t absorb much moisture during winter. Jessica Mercer, Horticulturist at Plant Addicts, explains: ‘During wet winters, water fills the air spaces around the roots and deprives the roots of oxygen. Over time, the roots and crown can rot.’

‘Plants with hairy or woolly foliage (e.g. edelweiss, pussytoes, and partridge feather) trap more water near the crown and thus are more susceptible to crown rot,' she adds.

Such hairy or woolly plants, including spring-flowering alpine varieties of pulsatilla and saxifraga, won’t use all that extra water they store during winter and can quickly decay unless protected from the elements.

How to Protect Plants From Rot

Overwintering alpine plants will differ depending on where you grow them. Plants in a rock or crevice garden need protection in place, while potted plants in container gardens can be transferred to a sheltered spot.

Alpines in the Ground

Sensitive hairy and woolly foliage plants in rock, crevice, or gravel gardens can be covered for winter. This can be done with a cold frame, a garden cloche, glass panes, or plastic sheeting. The latter two need securing in place, and plastic sheets should be staked to keep them from blowing away.

‘When I lived in Seattle, where winters are mild but wet, I grew cold-hardy dryland plants in my rock garden under clear mini cloches all winter,’ claims Jessica Mercer. ‘These included sulfur buckwheat (Eriogonum umbellatum), beavertail cactus (Opuntia basilaris), and Agave ‘Blue Glow’.’

A portable cold frame like this on The Home Depot protects plants from the worst winter weather. On warmer days, remember to open the vents for essential air circulation.

Garden cloches (like these at Walmart) offer the same protection. Any leftover glass panes from renovations and plastic sheets over garden hoops make budget-friendly DIY cloche alternatives.

Alpines in Pots

Move potted alpines for winter to protect containers from frost and freezing rain. Plants are more susceptible to freezes in containers and should not be left outdoors, as they risk sitting waterlogged when temperatures plunge during winter.

An ideal place to overwinter alpine plants in pots is an unheated greenhouse, alpine house, cold frame, or porch. Keep plants somewhere warm and dry. On warm days, open the doors or lids of the greenhouse or cold frame so air circulates freely, rather than sitting damp and humid to risk fungal problems.

If you don’t have an indoor structure, you can move pots under the eaves. For extra drainage, Morgan Brooks, the Founder and Editor at Plant Style Home, advises: ‘I raise every pot on pot feet or bricks and tilt it slightly so rain runs off, and I plant in a gritty mix of compost, sharp sand and fine gravel.’

You can get a pack of pot feet at Walmart to raise containers over winter. To prevent waterlogging, check each pot’s drainage holes before winter to make sure they are not blocked and are allowing excess water to flow away.

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FAQs

Do You Need to Water Alpines Over Winter?

Watering is a very delicate balance when overwintering alpine plants. The general rule is that they require very little water over winter, as you don’t want them sitting in waterlogged soil. Check the moisture levels every few weeks to avoid the soil drying out, especially when plants are protected from the elements.

‘Water when the mix feels dry about an inch or two down,' advises Jessica Mercer from Plant Addicts. ‘Pots in a cold frame or greenhouse can heat up quickly in afternoon sun and may dry out more quickly as a result.’

You can check the soil beneath the surface with your fingers, or a soil moisture meter available on Amazon is an alternative option that gives instant results.

November is a prime month to look around the garden, think about which plants you need to protect from frost, and how best to do it. Useful kit like cold frames, frost cloth, and mulch helps protect plants in beds and borders.

Plants both large and small need some TLC ahead of winter. It may be that larger tender plants need wrapping in November, such as tree ferns, banana trees, or tropical hibiscus. For this, use frost cloth, burlap, or special winter plant covers.

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Growing amaryllis and paperwhites in bulb vases is a lovely way to bring some life indoors over winter, particularly during the holiday season. While you can force bulbs in pots of soil, growing them in glass means you can watch every stage, from the first roots to the blooms, and specially designed vases make it easy to get started.

For planting amaryllis, a classic bulb vase works well. These are designed with a cup or narrow neck to hold the bulb so its base sits just above the water, while the roots grow down into the vase below. Amaryllis bulbs tend to be large, so look for an opening that's wide enough to hold the bulb securely, with enough height to balance the tall flower stems, like this hand-blown bulb vase from Terrain or this recycled glass amaryllis vase from Wayfair.

Paperwhites are more flexible. You can plant a single bulb in a narrow-necked vase, but when growing paperwhites, they usually look best planted in a cluster on a bed of pebbles. Glass hurricane vases work particularly well, as their tall sides help to support the stems as they grow. This green pine-etched glass hurricane from Crate & Barrel feels suitably seasonal, while a glass hurricane with a woven rattan base (like this one from Target), brings a natural texture to the display.

We've rounded up 16 of the best bulb vases for growing amaryllis and paperwhites, from premium hand-blown designs to simple, more practical vases for under $10. Most will work for cut stems once the bulbs have finished flowering, too.

Once your bulbs are in, keep the water topped up to just below the base of each bulb, and move the vase somewhere bright as the shoots appear so the stems don't stretch. And if you'd like even more color indoors over the coming months, it's worth planting indoor hyacinths now. They'll flower in late winter, just as your amaryllis and paperwhites are fading.

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Temperatures are dropping and the nights are drawing in. Before the first frosts arrive, some tender, tropical, or subtropical plants in your garden might need to be put to bed for the winter. Wrapping these frost-sensitive plants keeps them safely tucked up and protected from freezing conditions.

Giving popular trees and shrubs like tree ferns, bananas, citrus, tender palms, or tropical hibiscus a cozy, insulated layer of frost cloth or burlap protects the plants from frost. It is an alternative way to shield them from potentially damaging winter weather if you don’t have space to lift and bring them indoors.

Here are five tender plants to wrap in November, along with easy-to-follow recommendations for how to keep them protected. If you plan to use frost cloth, also known as horticultural fleece or row covers, choose a thicker heavyweight type, such as this super heavyweight row cover on Amazon, which protects down to 20°F.

1. Tree Fern

Statuesque, textural tree ferns are always dramatic additions to any garden. They are hardy in zones 9 and 10 but will need protection from the winter cold in zone 8.

If you have the space, you can lift the plants and overwinter them in a greenhouse or frost-free spot. Otherwise, wrapping tree ferns is the best way to protect them from frost. This is what we did every winter at one historic garden I worked in.

When you grow tree ferns, their crowns are highly vulnerable to cold and wet, so the growing point is the priority when wrapping plants for winter.

To winterize tree ferns, tie the fronds together (you can cut them off in climates with milder winters, but I prefer to keep them for extra protection) and then pack the crown with straw or hessian to insulate it.

With the crown packed and protected, wrap the entire trunk in frost cloth or burlap (you can get a natural burlap roll at Walmart) and tie it in place with string to keep it secure.

2. Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical hibiscus varieties only survive outdoors in zones 9-11. To enjoy the vivid trumpet-shaped blooms of the tropical plants year after year, you need to learn how to winterize hibiscus.

The simplest way is to grow hibiscus that need winter protection in pots; then move them indoors once the temperatures drop. However, this is not always possible, but it is not impossible to overwinter these hibiscus outdoors in areas that get light frosts each winter.

In colder climates, a key job to do with hibiscus in the fall is to mulch the roots. Then you can prune the hibiscus back by up to a third with sharp pruners and wrap the plants with thick-grade frost cloth to insulate them from frosts.

Use bamboo poles (available at The Home Depot) to build a tent structure around the hibiscus, and drape the frost cloth over it. Secure the covering to the ground with bricks or landscaping staples (available at Lowe’s) to keep it in place and prevent cold drafts from getting in.

3. Citrus Trees

Some citrus trees are hardier than others. However, any citrus tree will only tolerate temperatures down to 25-28°F for a short time before suffering damage in the form of wilting leaves or blackened tips.

The hardier citrus trees can live year-round outdoors in zone 8, but more tender types will need protection, and all citrus need extra winter care in zones 7 and below. Plus, young trees are not as hardy as older ones, so newly planted trees need winter protection in their early years.

People usually overwinter citrus trees in one of two ways. One is to grow citrus trees in pots and move them indoors before the frosts arrive. The other is to leave them outdoors and use frost cloth, burlap, or tree covers (available at Amazon) to wrap them and protect them from frost damage.

4. Banana

Bananas can be dug up and overwintered indoors, or wrapped and protected in place before the first hard frost. Tender banana trees always need protection, while even popular cold-hardy banana trees in the Musa genus need to be wrapped in US hardiness zones 5-8.

The extent to which you need to overwinter banana trees will depend on your climate. It all starts with removing the leaves and making a sloping cut above the top of the stem, so moisture runs away over winter.

When you grow banana trees in milder climates, a layer of frost cloth topped with a layer of burlap can suffice.

However, in colder zones with deep winter cold, it needs to be something a bit more insulating. This comes in the form of a chicken wire cage around the trunk that you pack with straw, leaves, or fleece. You can get a roll of galvanized steel chicken wire fencing at Lowe’s.

A layer of mulch around the tree is also recommended to insulate the roots from frost.

5. Tender Palms

Tropical and subtropical palm trees are frost-sensitive. Some hardy palms, such as the Trachycarpus species, can overwinter outdoors down to zone 6, but most fall into the tropical or subtropical category and need winter protection.

The crown is the most delicate part. To protect the palm trees in winter, stuff fleece around the crown, bundle the fronds together, and wrap them with string or twine. This keeps them in place and prevents frost from penetrating the growing point.

Then, wrap the tied fronds and the trunk in frost cloth to insulate against the cold. You can also use burlap or blankets, but never wrap trees in plastic, as it traps moisture and causes mold.

A pop-up plant protection tent from Amazon can be used to cover smaller palm trees and other borderline-hardy shrubs that need winter protection.

Mulching around palm trees in winter with two inches or more of bark (such as this bag of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s), wood chips, or compost offers a beneficial layer of insulation for the roots.

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It is not all about simply putting the garden to bed in November. It is also a month for adding trees, shrubs, perennials, and spring bulbs to the garden.

You can plant in November, as long as the soil is workable and not waterlogged or frozen. Yes, spend time protecting and preparing before winter, but also set some aside for new additions to add to the display next year.

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While the garden settles down for winter, our indoor plants still need plenty of attention. From overwatering to reduced daylight, there are several seasonal challenges to navigate. One that often gets overlooked is indoor heating.

While many indoor plant parents know to protect their plants from cold drafts, Justin Hancock, horticulturist at Costa Farms and author of the upcoming book The New Complete Guide to Houseplants (available to pre-order from Amazon), warns that turning on the heat can bring a different challenge. Warm, dry air can dehydrate plants, cause yellowing leaves, pest problems, and even plant death – and Justin reveals houseplants with thinner leaves are among those most at risk.

Speaking to Homes & Gardens, he explains why thin-leaved plants are particularly vulnerable, which houseplants to look out for, and how to protect them in winter (don't forget to have your houseplant care kit to hand).

The Danger of Heating

Winter houseplant care can be easy to neglect, particularly when plants aren't showing many signs of growth. However, this doesn't mean they should be ignored – winter is the time to pay attention to challenging indoor conditions that put your plants at risk.

'We tend to think of our homes as being a consistent environment and disconnected from the outside world, but this isn't true,' Justin says. 'The biggest thing is that the light and temperature change in winter,' he explains.

Justin points out that houseplants experience much more sudden temperature changes indoors than in their natural environment, particularly when exposed to direct heat. This can cause heat stress, dehydration, and yellowing and crisping leaves.

'If you have a plant next to a fireplace or a heating vent, the air coming out of there is so much warmer because it has to heat the room, and it can be stressful on the plant,' he explains.

Prolonged exposure to this dry air can even create ideal conditions for houseplant pests (particularly spider mites) putting your houseplant at even greater risk.

'As our heaters go on, we see spider mites reproduce a little bit faster. An egg can hatch into an adult, mature, and lay more eggs all in just seven days. So if you're really not monitoring it, those populations explode fast,' Justin notes.

But this doesn't mean you need to keep your heating off to protect your houseplants. Instead, it's about managing their environment carefully, especially for those most vulnerable.

Which Houseplants Are Most at Risk?

'As a general rule, the thinner the leaf, the more delicate a plant tends to be. So, plants like your ferns and calatheas are going to be a little bit more temperamental to those type of environment changes,' Justin explains.

Plants with fleshy, waxy leaves, such as succulents, ZZ plants, and snake plants, tend to store more water in their foliage, helping them cope better with drier periods. In contrast, plants with thinner leaves have less capacity to retain moisture, making them more susceptible to water loss when exposed to the dry air caused by indoor heating.

These are some of the houseplants most at risk:

• Ferns
• Calatheas
• Peace lily
• Prayer plant
• Ivy
• Polka dot plant
• Nerve plant

How to Protect Them

To protect houseplants from central heating, Justin says the solution is simple.

'It's best to watch the draft sources, both cold and warm. Pay attention to things like your heating vent and where the air is coming out. That can often be as simple as moving your plant just a tiny bit so it's no longer in the path of the air.

'If you have a fireplace, the mantle could be a terrible place for a houseplant, even though it looks beautiful there,' he adds.

A room thermometer (like this from Walmart) can help monitor temperatures more accurately. Generally speaking, 60-75°F is the sweet spot for the majority of plants.

Watering correctly during can also help with moisture management and ensure your houseplants don't become dehydrated or oversaturated. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) is essential for this, giving you an instant reading to determine if your plant needs watering.

Likewise, increasing humidity for indoor plants can help counter dry winter air. You can move plants close together, use a pebble humidity tray, or a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

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It's important to also protect your houseplants from cold temperatures this season, as cold damage can likewise weaken plants. Luckily there are plenty of ways to keep houseplants warm in winter without relying on harsh heaters. Burlap (like this from Amazon), for example, is a breathable material that can be used to insulate plant pots in particularly chilly rooms.

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A drip irrigation system is a great tool for watering plants in the warmer months. It can get neglected once the temperatures drop, though, and this can be a big mistake. It risks the system breaking or, worse, hitting you with a surprise repair bill.

You need to know when and how to winterize a drip irrigation system, as freezing temperatures can crack pipes, fittings, and valves. It can even result in large water leaks in your garden or home. To avoid this, any outdoor drip irrigation system should be shut down and drained before the first hard frost.

Winterizing any outside irrigation systems, such as drip irrigation and sprinklers, is an important part of overwintering a garden. I spoke with irrigation specialists about winterizing a drip irrigation system and the five key steps to follow.

Why You Need to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System

A drip irrigation system is an efficient way to reduce water waste in your yard while also watering your plants deeply. However, if you don’t winterize drip irrigation, you risk wasting water, damaging your system, and incurring a hefty repair bill.

Winterizing the system protects it from freeze damage, which can affect many different components.

‘Water left in irrigation lines or backflow preventers can freeze and expand, potentially cracking pipes, damaging valves, or causing backflow assembly failures,’ warns Heather Todd, brand president of Conserva Irrigation.

When the system is still connected to the tap and left full of water in winter, the damage can affect more than just the drip irrigation. It can extend into your garden or property.

Justin Wilson, owner of American Irrigation Repair, highlights brass backflow preventers as ‘usually the first things to burst’ when cold weather hits. He adds: ‘If a pipe or backflow preventer freezes and bursts, you could end up having to shut off the water supply to your entire home to stop the leak.’

Properly winterizing the system prevents damage to your home or garden from frozen pipes, which can add up depending on the extent of the repairs needed. It also ensures that the drip irrigation system is ready to use again come spring.

You can get an industrial-grade insulated winter pipe cover on Amazon to protect pipes and backflow preventers from freezing.

When to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System

Be proactive and have your system drained and shut down for winter well before temperatures drop to a level that could damage it.

‘Ideally, you should winterize your irrigation system before the first freeze of the year,’ recommends Heather Todd.

Depending on your location and US hardiness zone, the first frosts can be anywhere from early October to December.

Justin Wilson looks after irrigation systems in Central Texas, where the frosts hit late, and some years there are none at all. He says: ‘Our hardest freezes typically come in January and February. What I do is to watch the forecast and get ahead of those hard freezes.’

Monitor your local short- and long-term forecasts to get ahead of the frosts. A digital weather station, like this one on Amazon, can be installed, and sensors can be put in the garden to provide current information and forecasts for your location.

How to Winterize a Drip Irrigation System in 5 Steps

1. Turn off the water supply – Before doing anything else, switch off the water supply to the drip irrigation system at the main source, at the tap, or at a shut-off valve.
2. Open the ends and drain the irrigation lines – Remove any water in the irrigation lines. If you have end caps or plugs, remove them from the pipes and raise the tubing to allow gravity to drain the lines. Allow time for it all to drain by elevating sections and letting any residual water escape. To blow out the lines, Heather Todd adds: ‘A professional winterization service can evacuate water from the lines using pressurized air.’ An expert should blow out an irrigation system. It is an effective way to remove all the water, but compressed air can damage pipes if not done properly.
3. Remove the timer – If you have a timer on your drip irrigation system, disconnect and remove all water from it. Take out the batteries and store it in a dry, protected place for winter.
4. Protect exposed backflow preventers and valves – If your system has a backflow preventer, it needs to be drained and protected for winter. ‘Leave one exposed during a hard freeze for six or eight hours, and you’re asking for trouble,’ warns Justin Wilson. ‘Make sure it’s properly drained and insulated. Better yet, if your setup allows it, have it removed and stored somewhere warm.’ He adds: ‘Bottom line, folks, protect what’s above ground, drain what you can.’ You can insulate pipes and valves with foam pipe insulation (from Ace Hardware) or insulating tape (available at The Home Depot).
5. Store away components – tubing, drippers, control valves, fittings, and controllers are best stored for winter. Non-electrical parts can stay outside, but they risk being damaged over winter. Check each part for any cracks or damage, then store in a dry, frost-free place, such as a shed or garage. Label any storage boxes so you can easily find all the components again come spring.

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Now you know when and how to winterize a drip irrigation system; you won’t forget each year.

However, for added peace of mind, Justin Wilson from American Irrigation Repair adds: ‘We also highly recommend a rain/freeze sensor. It’ll automatically shut your system down when it rains or freezes, giving you a little insurance in case you forget.’

You can get a rain/freeze sensor from Amazon for any home irrigation system. Just in case you forget to winterize a sprinkler system or drip irrigation.

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You can plant container-grown fruit trees and bushes throughout the main growing season, but planting bare-root specimens over the winter months can prove far more cost-effective.

From apple trees to raspberries, I have regularly used the dormant season to plant fruit, especially in large numbers, at the gardens I have managed over the years. Not only because bare-root trees and bushes tend to be cheaper, but also because they have time to develop root systems before new growth in spring.

However, if you are wondering what else you can plant in November, the list is surprisingly long and includes hardy vegetables, flowers, and spring-flowering bulbs. Having gardened professionally year-round for nearly two decades, I’ve learned the hard way that the wrong kit, especially gloves, can make tasks miserable. When choosing winter gloves, choose something warm and waterproof but with enough dexterity for the task at hand, like these Thinsulate waterproof insulated gloves, available from Amazon.

Apples

Picking a fresh, crisp apple straight off the tree is something I always look forward to. From ‘Honeycrisp’ to ‘Fuji’, there is a wide array of varieties to choose from, and that is before you even consider cooking types. Furthermore, you can choose between standards, cordons and espaliers, depending on the space you have available.

For the best yields, you will want to plant your apple tree in full sun and on fertile, well-drained soil. If your apple tree requires cross-pollination, make sure you plant it in close proximity to a compatible tree.

You can plant a bare-root apple tree anytime during its dormancy, which typically falls between November and March, depending on your USDA zone. However, don't plant when the soil is frozen, as this can damage roots and keep trees from thriving.

When planting any tree, you will want to support it and prevent any wind rock until its roots establish a strong anchoring system. A single slanted stake and tree tie strap, available from Amazon, is generally adequate. For exposed areas and taller trees, a crossbar attached to two posts will provide more support.

Bare-root dwarf apple ‘Fuji’ trees are available to purchase from The Home Depot.

Pears

Pear trees are surprisingly easy to look after and growing one in your backyard will mean you can pick your own sweet fruit come harvest time.

Thriving in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 10, pear trees are available on different rootstocks, which determine their final size. You can choose free-standing specimens, trained trees to grow along a wall or fence, or dwarf varieties suitable for a container.

With trees just entering dormancy now, November is an ideal time to plant bare-root specimens. This is because dormant plants' root systems continue to grow during winter, albeit far more slowly than in the growing season, unless the ground freezes.

To aid root penetration and establishment, dig a hole two to three times as wide as the roots and as deep. Digging can be laborious, but a sharp spade, like this AgroPro flat shovel, available from Amazon, will help make the task easier.

For the best yields, plant pear trees in full sun and on fertile, free-draining soil. You can purchase bare-root dwarf ‘Comice’ pear trees from The Home Depot.

Plums

Another fruit tree to plant in November is the plum. Delicious when eaten fresh or in compotes or jams, a plum tree is a great investment in your garden.

Container-grown plum trees can be planted throughout most of the year, but November is a great month for bare-root planting as long as the ground is not frozen hard.

Plum trees grow best in a sunny spot, but being one of the first trees to blossom in spring, you will want to protect them from harsh winds and late frosts.

When choosing a plum variety, you can pick between those for eating fresh and those intended for cooking, although there are some that are dual-purpose.

Plum trees generally require less pruning than other top fruit, but knowing when to prune them is key. Spring is usually considered best for pruning young trees and mid-summer for established specimens. Either way, sharp and sanitized secateurs, like these Okatsune 103 bypass pruners, available from Amazon, will help make clean cuts and minimize the risk of infection.

Cherries

Cherries are a seasonal delight and taste so much better when they are eaten straight off a tree. Furthermore, their blossom will add interest and beauty to your spring garden.

Cherry trees vary in hardiness, so before buying, it is wise to check that the variety suits your hardiness zone.

As with the other trees mentioned, November is a perfect time to plant a bare-root cherry tree as the ground, depending on your location, is generally not frozen solid and allows time for roots to establish before spring arrives. That said, in colder areas, where hard freezes have already begun, you may want to wait until early spring or when the soil is more workable.

To give your cherry tree (sweet types) the best chance of fruiting well, plant it in a sunny, sheltered spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Water in after planting and keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, if conditions are dry until established.

If your soil is poor, you can mix some well-rotted manure into the planting soil, which will help enrich it. You can purchase Harvest Company premium aged manure from Lowe’s.

Raspberries

You can plant container-grown raspberries at any time during the growing season. However, a far more cost-effective way to grow raspberries is to buy them as bare-root plants and plant them anytime during dormancy, from November to March.

Raspberries are well suited USDA zones 3-9 (depending on variety) and you can choose between summer-fruiting and fall-fruiting varieties or a combination of the two to provide a succession of fruits over the growing season.

Raspberries thrive when they are grown in full sun and on a fertile soil. If your soil is lacking in nutrients, you can amend the soil by digging in garden compost or well-rotted manure ahead of planting.

Bare-root raspberries are often on sale from your local garden nursery. Alternatively, you can purchase pot-grown plants such as Carolina Raspberry from Plant Addicts.

Currants

Currants (or Ribes) are healthy, delicious fruits that are easy to grow. I have planted them in nearly all the kitchen gardens I have managed over my career and have found currants to be among the most reliable croppers and great for making cordials and desserts.

Currant growing was banned nationwide in the US in the past because they can harbor a fungus which harms native pine trees. Although this ban was lifted in 1966, some states still restrict them, so check with your local horticultural extension office before purchasing. Some current varieties are incredibly cold-hardy and can be grown in USDA zones 2-3, which makes them an excellent choice for cooler areas.

Currants fruit best in full sun and fertile soil. When planting bare root, November is a great month, as this allows time for roots to establish before new growth bursts forth in spring.

Bare-root ‘Red Lake’ currant plants are available to purchase from Burpee.

Gooseberries

Another Ribes banned until 1966, you can now grow gooseberries in most states, but it is worth checking with your local extension first. Traditionally bright, translucent green, gooseberries are now available in shades of red, yellow and purple. Typically tasting sharp and tangy, they are used in both sweet and savory dishes.

Although they will tolerate some shade, they grow best in full sun and in fertile, well-drained soil. You can buy pot-grown gooseberries throughout the growing season, but why not take advantage of the cheaper bare-root plants available now? Having just entered dormancy, November is a good time to plant bare-root specimens, as long as the soil is workable.

Gooseberries are generally grown as bushes. However, you can also train them against a wall or grow them in a container. If growing in a pot, choose a container around 16 inches wide and deep with plenty of drainage holes and backfill with a soil-based compost.

Suitable for growing in zones 3-8, Bare-root gooseberry ‘Pixwell’ is available to purchase from Burpee.

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Using sharp and clean tools not only makes gardening tasks easier but can also reduce the risk of plants or trees becoming infected. With less to do in the garden, this time of year is ideal for a stock check and any garden tool maintenance.

From cleaning off dried mud to oiling and sharpening, our guide to servicing tools will help your pruners and hedge cutters be something you will look forward to using when the time comes.

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I have always enjoyed taking cuttings and find hardwood cuttings the most reliable way to propagate new shrubs. They are easy to take and usually have a high success rate. If you want new plants, November is an ideal time to take hardwood cuttings, when shrubs lose their leaves and enter dormancy.

You can take hardwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs, fruit bushes, roses, and trees from late fall to late winter. It is a satisfying, cost-efficient way to expand your plant collection, and you’ll get exact clones of your favorite shrubs. They do require patience, but on the plus side, these rugged cuttings require little maintenance, especially if you plant them directly into the ground.

Yes, you can buy new shrubs or trees to plant in November. But also examine what you already have that impresses. You can clone them to add more color or texture to the garden. Here are seven hardwood cuttings to take in November, along with expert tips to help yours root successfully. I always use rooting hormone powder (available at Walmart) when I take plant cuttings. As hardwood cuttings can take months to root, anything that speeds up that process is worth using.

Taking Hardwood Cuttings in November

Once you know how to take hardwood cuttings, you can propagate shrubs, climbers, fruit, and trees for years. You can take cuttings from mid-fall to late winter, while plants are dormant. The good news is that they are reliable, forgiving, and often need little attention after being started.

Take 8-12 inch cuttings of healthy one-year-old wood, making a straight cut at the base below a bud and an angled cut at the top above a bud. Remove any remaining leaves and dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone. The hormone powder or gel is optional but recommended, as it helps speed up root development.

Hardwood cuttings can be put in pots or directly into outdoor trenches. Whichever you choose, bury two-thirds of the cutting below the soil line. Keep the cutting moist, but not waterlogged. It needs to be carefully monitored and kept moist to develop roots and be ready to plant next fall.

1. Gooseberries

When you grow gooseberries, hardwood cuttings are the most reliable way to add more bushes to your garden without buying more. As fresh gooseberries aren’t always common in stores, growing your own heavy-cropping bushes is a go-to way to get fruit for desserts, preserves, or savory dishes.

Yes, you can invest in new bushes, but they won’t bring the satisfaction of picking gooseberries from bushes you propagated yourself. That joy can’t be measured. It does need a bit more patience, but trust me, it is worth it.

Gooseberries want pruning during dormancy, so you can take material for cuttings while trimming the bush. Before you cut anything, ensure your pruning tools are clean and sharp. A good pair of pruners is essential for taking cuttings and pruning fruit bushes – I have used a trusty pair of Felco F2 pruning shears (available at Amazon) for years.

2. American Beautyberry

An American beautyberry is an absolute stunner in the fall. Its arching branches are covered with dazzling purple winter berries that stop you in your tracks. If you want more native shrubs with winter berries, this should be near the top of any list.

If you have a shrub, or a friend or neighbor has one, you can collect seeds or take cuttings to grow another beautyberry. Don’t worry about ruining the display by removing stems; you only need to take a few this month. You usually don’t prune beautyberry shrubs until late winter or early spring, but taking the odd stem or two for cuttings is fine.

The best option for American beautyberry cuttings is to place them in a deep pot filled with a well-draining potting mix for cuttings. One such example is this 3-in-1 soil mix for seeds and cuttings at Amazon. Keep the pots in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame over winter.

3. Spirea

Spirea makes a great landscaping shrub as it puts on a show throughout the seasons. The flowers appear in spring and summer – with different spirea varieties coming in shades of white, pink, or light purple – and the blooms are followed by vibrant fall foliage. The flowering shrubs both look fabulous and are a beacon for pollinators.

The low-maintenance shrubs are very popular and versatile. You can use them in flower beds and borders, planted in large containers, or as a colorful hedge. If you want to use spirea as a hedging plant, it can be cost-efficient to grow many plants from cuttings.

When you are planting a large number of cuttings, the easiest way to do this is to put them straight in the ground. Pick a sheltered spot with well-draining soil and use a garden spade (Available at Ace Hardware) to make a slit in the ground, into which you bury your cuttings around six inches apart. Firm the soil down around the cutting, water it well, and keep the soil moist over the coming months.

4. Elderberry

Elderberry, or sambucas, is a stunning flowering shrub with dramatic foliage, white flowers, and dark berries that are popular for pies, jellies, jams, syrup, juices, and more. It is one of the best shrubs for dark foliage, which can be purple to almost block.

An elderberry is a simple woody plant to propagate from hardwood cuttings. If you can get cuttings from an elderberry bush – whether in your yard, a neighbor’s, or a plant in the wild – there is a very high chance it’ll root successfully. To give it the best chance, make sure each cutting is around the thickness of a pencil and contains two to four buds.

It is possible to root elderberry cuttings in water. Prepare the cutting as outlined above and submerge it in a glass of water, with at least half underneath the water line. Change the water every few days, and wait for roots to form. Once the roots are a few inches long, you can pot it up in containers filled with soil.

5. Forsythia

The bright yellow blooms of a spring-flowering shrub are a welcome sight after a long, hard winter. Forsythia is one of the first to burst into bloom in the new year and warm the soul. For that reason, you may choose to take forsythia cuttings to add more of these attractive, vibrant plants to your yard.

The right time to prune forsythia shrubs is after the blooms fade for the season. But you can take cuttings without hugely affecting the upcoming spring display. Take 6-8 inch cuttings of one-year-old stems, trim them, and dip them in rooting hormone. Place these cuttings into pots and keep them in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame.

You can get a strong polycarbonate cold frame at The Home Depot that is ideal for overwintering cuttings. The cuttings will be protected from frost and heavy rain to develop roots and be ready to plant in the garden next fall.

6. Blueberries

Blueberries are highly nutritious and rich in vitamins and antioxidants. There are many health benefits that come from growing this superfood at home and enjoying the rich blueberry harvests you get each summer.

As you prune blueberries while the bushes are dormant, you can tick two jobs off a fall gardening checklist by pruning and propagating blueberries from cuttings at the same time.

Take 12-inch stems of the previous season’s growth that are pencil-thick. These can be processed into 4-6 inch cuttings and put in pots filled with a well-draining potting mix. It helps to cover the pots with a clear plastic bag to maintain humidity, or you can use nursery pots with humidity domes from Amazon for cuttings.

7. Weigela

Lots of people like growing weigela because the shrubs are easy, reliable, and showy. The tubular spring and early summer flowers are bright, come in a range of vivid colors, and attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees.

Weigelas come in different colors and sizes. But often you see a limited range available to buy. The potential uses for weigela include planting the shrub as a wildlife-friendly screening plant. If you have a variety you adore, taking weigela cuttings is a budget-friendly way to get identical plants to expand any shrub collection.

If you opt to put weigela cuttings into an outdoor nursery bed, take care with watering plants over winter and spring. The soil needs to be kept consistently moist, but not waterlogged, as this can cause the cutting to rot in sodden soil. A soil moisture meter, available on Amazon, can be used to check the levels and avoid overwatering the cuttings.

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November is a prime month for tidying the garden and also preparing for next year. This includes pruning deciduous shrubs and trees as they enter dormancy to shape them and deal with any dead, damaged, or diseased growth that may pose winter dangers.

Or trimming perennial plants that show signs of disease to stop bacteria or fungi from overwintering in old growth. Our guide to plants to prune in November highlights seven plants that may need attention this month.

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Peace lilies are relatively easy houseplants to care for, but they need a few seasonal adjustments as the weather cools. November brings shorter days, lower temperatures, and the start of the heating season, all of which can affect how well your plant grows indoors.

I have the Peace Lily Plant from Trees.com in my own home, and good peace lily care at this time of year is largely about adapting to these changing conditions. From adjusting your watering routine to finding a spot away from cold drafts and heating vents, a few simple jobs will help keep your plant healthy through winter.

1. Move Your Peace Lily Somewhere With Plenty of Indirect Light

As daylight hours shorten in November, your peace lily may benefit from a change of position. These tropical plants naturally grow beneath larger trees, so they prefer bright, indirect light rather than direct sunshine. When considering where to place a peace lily, an east-facing window is often ideal, while a spot slightly back from a south- or west-facing window can also work well.

If your plant has been sitting in a shady corner over summer, move it somewhere brighter for winter, but avoid strong direct sunlight, which can scorch its leaves. A lightweight plant stand, such as IKEA's OLIVBLAD, can help lift your peace lily closer to a window, while an LED grow light from Amazon is worth considering if your home doesn't get much natural daylight.

2. Adjust How Often You Water

One of the most important parts of peace lily care in November is adjusting your watering routine. As temperatures drop and growth slows, your plant won't use water as quickly as it does in spring and summer. Rather than following a fixed schedule, check the soil first. Peace lilies prefer consistently lightly moist soil, but don't like sitting in waterlogged soil. Allow the top inch to dry out slightly before you water a peace lily again, then let any excess water drain away.

Peace lilies are expressive plants, and their leaves often droop when they're thirsty, but that shouldn't be your only sign they need a drink. Regularly checking the soil will help you avoid both underwatering and overwatering. An Amazon indoor watering can with a long, narrow spout makes it easier to direct water towards the soil, while an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you check moisture levels before watering.

3. Keep It Away From Cold Drafts and Heating Vents

Peace lilies are tropical plants, so they don't appreciate sudden temperature changes. November is when many of us start turning on the heating, but the warm, dry air from radiators and heating vents can be particularly uncomfortable for these humidity-loving houseplants. Try to keep your peace lily somewhere with a relatively consistent temperature, ideally between 65°F and 80°F.

Some of the places to never grow a peace lily include spots beside exterior doors, drafty windows, radiators and fireplaces. While a little extra warmth is welcome, direct heat can dry out the leaves and surrounding soil much faster than you might expect. If your home gets particularly dry during winter, the DREO cool-mist humidifier can help maintain a more comfortable level of humidity around your plant.

4. Give the Leaves a Little Attention

Peace lilies are loved for their glossy, deep-green foliage, so November is a good time to give the leaves a little attention. Dust can collect on their broad leaves, particularly when windows are kept closed more often during winter. Gently wipe each leaf with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust and help keep the foliage looking fresh. A microfiber cleaning cloth is a useful addition to your houseplant kit for this job.

This is also a good opportunity to check for yellowing leaves, brown tips or any signs of pests. Remove dead or badly damaged foliage using clean, sharp scissors, such as a pair of Fiskars Steel Micro-Tip Pruning Scissors from Amazon, cutting close to the base of the stem. If you notice brown tips, don't immediately assume your plant needs more water. Low humidity, inconsistent watering and mineral buildup from tap water can all contribute to this problem.

5. Increase Humidity Around Your Plant

Indoor heating can make the air particularly dry during November, which isn't ideal for a tropical plant like a peace lily. Although they can adapt to average household conditions, peace lilies appreciate higher humidity. If the air in your home feels particularly dry, you could use a glass plant mister from Walmart to lightly mist the surrounding air.

Another simple trick is to group your peace lily with other houseplants, helping to create a slightly more humid microclimate around their foliage. Just make sure there is enough space between plants for good airflow.

6. Hold Off on Fertilizing

If you've been feeding your peace lily regularly throughout spring and summer, November is the time to slow down. Peace lilies naturally grow less during the colder months, particularly when daylight is limited, so they don't need the same amount of nutrients as they do during their active growing season. If you're wondering when to fertilize a peace lily, I'd avoid feeding throughout winter and resume in early spring when you begin to see fresh growth.

Applying too much fertilizer when a plant isn't actively growing can lead to a buildup of salts in the soil, potentially damaging its roots. When it's time to start feeding again, the Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food for All Plants from Amazon is a good option.

You could also choose a balanced, water-soluble plant food, such as the Miracle-Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food from Amazon, diluted according to the instructions, to support healthy foliage and new growth.

7. Remove Spent Flowers and Check for New Growth

Although peace lilies are best known for their beautiful green foliage, their distinctive white flowers are another reason they're such popular houseplants. Flowering can become less frequent as daylight hours decrease, so don't worry if your plant isn't producing new blooms in November. This is a natural part of its seasonal growth cycle.

If your peace lily has any flowers that have turned green or brown and begun to fade, remove them by cutting the flower stalk down near the base. A pair of precision Fiskars Pruning Shears from The Home Depot will help you make a clean cut without damaging the surrounding foliage. This also keeps the plant looking tidy and allows it to focus its energy on maintaining healthy leaves.

Avoid forcing new flowers with additional fertilizer or moving the plant into direct sunlight. Instead, focus on providing consistent care until growing conditions improve in spring.

What to Avoid With Your Peace Lily in November

While peace lilies are generally forgiving tropical houseplants, there are a few common mistakes to avoid as winter approaches:

Don't overwater: Cooler temperatures and slower growth mean the soil takes longer to dry out. Always check the soil before watering.

Don't leave it in a dark corner: Shorter days mean your plant needs to make the most of available indirect light.

Don't repot unnecessarily: November isn't the ideal time to disturb the roots. Unless there is an urgent issue, wait until spring to repot.

Don't place it next to a radiator: Direct heat can dry out the foliage and create uncomfortable growing conditions.

Don't worry about fewer flowers: Reduced flowering is normal during the darker months, and your plant may naturally bloom more readily again in spring.

With a few simple seasonal adjustments, your peace lily should make an easy transition into winter. Focus on providing the right light, adjusting your watering routine and keeping it away from cold drafts and dry heat. There's no need to overdo things – consistent, gentle care through the colder months will help keep its foliage healthy and give it the best chance of producing fresh growth when spring arrives.

Winter brassicas are hardy, but that doesn’t mean plunging temperatures and hungry pests don’t trouble them during the colder months. The simplest way to protect winter brassicas and preserve your harvest is to cover the plants.

Kale, winter cabbages, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts can survive winter in the vegetable garden and provide a bounty of crops for hearty seasonal meals. They even taste sweeter after a frost, but tough winter weather can harm them. They're also a target for hungry birds in winter, and pests such as slugs and snails can still be an issue.

To avoid losing any harvests, keep using physical barriers like netting when overwintering vegetables. They let light and moisture through but keep pests out. As a professional kitchen gardener, I routinely used covers like this ultrafine mesh netting at Walmart over my winter brassicas for many years to keep the harvests coming. I have also always staked taller brassicas to stop them from falling in strong winter weather.

Do You Need to Fleece Winter Brassicas?

Winter brassicas are tough crops that can overwinter outdoors without an issue. They have evolved to handle cold weather and freezes, including extended hard frosts.

For example, the hardiest kales can handle temperatures down to -10°F, and savoy winter cabbages and sprouts can tolerate down to around 10°F. The exact hardiness depends on the specific variety, and while the plants can tolerate those temperatures, they may suffer some damage, which affects the harvest.

Growers in USDA hardiness zone 5 are usually able to overwinter these crops without worrying too much about potential damage. However, in zones 3 or 4, you need to pick the hardiest varieties and consider covering them with thick-grade frost cloth, like this 2.0 oz thick frost cloth at Amazon.

In cold, northern climates, a thick layer of snow actually insulates plants. It does make harvesting vegetables trickier, but it can help protect vegetables from frost over winter.

Netting Winter Brassicas

Over winter, vegetables become targets for hungry wildlife, particularly birds, who like to graze on crops. Canada geese, pigeons, goldfinches, and more can do damage ranging from pecking holes in leaves to stripping whole plants.

Birds are the worst culprits over winter, but winter backyard pests like rodents, deer, and rabbits will also eat winter brassicas if given the opportunity. Slugs and snails are also active in winter and will nibble holes in leaves.

The simplest way to combat birds and protect winter brassicas from damage is to keep them covered with a physical barrier, namely bird-proof netting. The garden netting will allow essential light and water to reach your brassicas, but will, of course, stop the birds from getting at the plants and ruining your winter crop.

Typical bird netting has a mesh size of half to three-quarters of an inch. You can get heavy-duty bird netting with ¾ inch mesh at Amazon that can cover crops and stop birds, squirrels, deer, or rabbits from eating your crops.

If, like me, you use fine netting to stop caterpillars and other pests in a vegetable garden during summer, particularly cabbage worms and cabbage loppers, this netting can be left in place for winter and will provide perfect protection against cold-season pests. A good example of such a product is this insect barrier netting at The Home Depot, which also comes with 10 pegs.

Any netting needs to be put over a set of hoops or posts, rather than just laid directly over the top of the vegetables. You can get a hoop kit at Amazon that is easy to install and perfect for holding netting.

If you put the netting directly on the crops, birds or other pests can nibble the leaves through the material, unless you use the smallest mesh size. On frosty nights, the netting can also freeze directly to the vegetables and damage them.

Drape the netting over hoops or posts and secure the sides down with landscape staples (available at Lowe’s) or bricks. This guarantees birds don’t get underneath the netting, or the material doesn’t blow away in high winds and uncover a brassica buffet for local wildlife to enjoy.

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Staking Winter Brassicas

Tall winter brassicas, including Brussels sprouts, broccolini, and some types of kale, are vulnerable in strong winter winds. They can suffer wind rock if left to sway back and forth in the wind, which loosens and damages the roots. In a worst-case scenario, the plants can be completely toppled.

To support these winter brassicas and avoid losing any harvests, I opt to stake them with bamboo or wooden stakes, like this bundle of 25 garden stakes at The Home Depot. Tie the main stem to the stake with soft, flexible plant ties. I like these VELCRO plant ties at Walmart as they are strong, soft, adjustable, and reusable.

If you still have root vegetables in the ground, such as carrots, parsnips, celeriac, or rutabaga, you can easily overwinter them to keep the harvests coming through the winter.

You can overwinter root vegetables by covering them with frost cloth put over hoops to create a protective tunnel. Alternatively, I often put a thick layer of straw over the top of the crops to insulate the soil and make it easier to lift them when harvesting over winter.

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Come November, our houseplants are desperate for a bit for a bit of TLC to cope with lower light levels and colder room temperatures. Spider plants, despite being one of the easiest houseplants to care for, are among those that need a bit of help to settle into the incoming winter season.

It's true that spider plant care is straightforward, which is why it's such a beginner-friendly houseplant. However, drafts, soggy soil, and dry air all put it at risk through the fall and winter months. These problems could cause root rot, pest problems, and foliage damage.

That's why I always do a handful of things in fall to keep my spider plant bright and healthy. With your houseplant care kit to hand (particularly a soil moisture meter, like this from Amazon), here's what to do with a spider plant in November.

1. Avoid Drafts

Spider plants are tropical houseplants, native to tropical and southern Africa. For this reason, they don't cope well with cold temperatures and sudden temperature fluctuations.

'Spider plants thrive at temperatures between 65-75°F. Avoid drastic temperature changes, like drafts. While the plant can tolerate short drops to 50–55°F, prolonged exposure to cold can kill it,' says Plantum plant expert, Marina Prokaten.

'If you put it on a windowsill, make sure the leaves don’t touch the cold glass,' she adds.

You can use a room thermometer (like this from Walmart) to monitor this. If needed, use a seedling heat mat (which you can pick up from Amazon) to keep your spider plant sufficiently warm.

2. Move It Closer to a Window

As well as watching out for sudden cold temperatures, take note of how much daylight exposure your spider plant gets in its current position. To little light during fall and winter's shorter days can result in a loss of variegation, leggy growth, and even stunted growth.

'Place your spider plant near a west or east-facing window so it receives bright, indirect light,' Marina suggests.

Houseplant rotation can help provide balanced light exposure and result in more symmetrical growth. A plant caddy (like this wooden one from Wayfair) can make this much more convenient to do.

'Watch for pale and wilted foliage, which may indicate the plant lacks sunlight. If you see this, move the pot closer to a window or use a grow light,' Marina adds.

If you do need to boost lighting, a grow light with a timer can make it low effort. This bamboo grow light from Amazon doesn't compromise on aesthetics.

3. Reduce Watering

One of the biggest things to do when it comes to fall houseplant care is reduce watering. Soil dries out much slower in the colder room temperatures, and plants are entering dormancy so don't need so much water to support growth.

'Be careful not to overwater the spider plant, especially if it’s kept in a cool spot, since roots are more likely to get stressed in wet soil,' says Marina.

Overwatering now can risk houseplant root rot, houseplant pest problems, and the death of your houseplant.

You should use your finger or a soil moisture meter (which you can pick up from Walmart) to identify when around 50% has dried out before watering again.

'It's also best to choose a pot with drainage holes at the bottom so excess water can drain freely, and empty the saucer afterward,' Marina advises.

4. Check for Brown Tips

It's a common problem for a spider plant's tips to turn brown over winter, especially when your plant is located near radiators and heating vents, or indoor humidity has dropped.

'Brown leaf tips often signal low humidity or sensitivity to tap water chemicals. The damaged parts won’t recover, but increasing the humidity will prevent new leaves from drying at the edges,' Marina suggests.

Tap water can be bad for houseplants that are particularly sensitive to the chemicals and minerals in the water. Spider plants are fairly tolerate of tap water, but a build-up of minerals can cause brown tips and discoloring foliage. You can purchase distilled water from Walmart to use instead.

'To increase humidity for indoor plants, consider using a humidifier (like this portable humidifier from Amazon). You can also group your houseplants and place a container filled with water nearby,' Marina suggests.

Another easy way to boost humidity is placing your spider plant on a pebble humidity tray, which you can find at Amazon. As the water evaporates around the pebbles, it increases moisture in the air around your plant.

5. Don't Fertilize Your Plant

Now that your spider plant is entering dormancy, it's slowing down and isn't growing so actively as in spring and summer. This means it doesn't need fertilizer – in fact, fertilizing your spider plant now can cause more harm than good.

'In cooler temperatures and with less light, the spider plant slows its growth and uses very few resources, so fertilizing is unnecessary. Hold off on any fertilizers until early spring to prevent chemical burns to the roots,' says Marina.

You could risk killing off your spider plant by burning roots when it isn't taking up essential plant nutrients.

Instead, use this time to stock up on spider plant fertilizer (like this TPS spider plant fertilizer from Amazon), ready to use monthly in spring when your plant starts to grow again.

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As the coldest temperatures settle in, it's important to keep your most sensitive houseplants warm in winter. If needed, you can wrap houseplant pots with a breathable material like burlap (available on Amazon) for extra insulation.

Our guide to winter houseplant care has more insights to consider for healthy and happy houseplants over the coming months.

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There's no denying winter is settling in, with fewer daylight hours and cooler temps. Our houseplants can struggle with this seasonal shift, which is why I always do a few things to help them cope. One of the easiest things to do? Wash your windows.

It may sounds strange at first, but I find washing my windows every November makes a huge difference for fall houseplant care. It removes debris and dirt, letting more light in and improving exposure for my houseplants. As a result, it contributes to keeping leggy growth at bay and supports houseplants through challenging seasonal conditions.

It's one of the reasons I keep a microfiber cloth in my houseplant care kit (as well as an Amazon soil moisture meter, which is an essential for winter). Here's why this quick hack shouldn't be underestimated.

Why Does It Work?

One of the main problems houseplants face in fall and winter is fewer daylight hours. It leaves indoor plants with less natural light exposure, which is needed for essential plant processes like photosynthesis, even when the plant is in dormancy and growing much more slowly during the cooler months.

Insufficient lighting during fall and winter can cause houseplants to grow leggy. Long, sparse stems are weak and can break easily, generally draining the plant's energy.

That's why washing your windows can make a real difference. It's a fall indoor plant task often forgotten about, but removing grime and dirt from your windows will allow for more light to pass through.

I find it's especially useful for my larger houseplants that have a permanent position further away from windows and can't be easily moved.

When doing this, wash both the inside and outside of your windows for the full benefit (you can pick up a window squeegee from Amazon). However, it's important to keep in mind this won't drastically improve light levels alone – combining it with other methods will benefit your indoor garden most.

Other Methods to Boost Light Levels

I always move some of my houseplants in fall, relocating those that need more light closer to bright windows.

However, you should be aware of harsh winter sun that can still cause leaf scorch for the most sensitive houseplants.

Cleaning houseplants leaves also helps by removing any dust blocking your plant's pores. You can use a microfiber cloth, or special houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Walmart) which pick up dust in one swipe.

I also practice houseplant rotation, turning houseplants weekly so they get equal exposure. It results in more symmetrical growth.

If needed, supplement lighting with grow lights for houseplants. This grow light from Amazon has a beautiful bamboo finish and a timer for convenient use.

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Look out for other common indoor plant mistakes this season. This includes watering too frequently, where soil takes longer to dry out in winter conditions. It could risk houseplant root rot and attracts pests like fungus gnats.

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Citronella (Pelargonium citrosum) is a popular scented-leaf pelargonium with a strong citrus-like smell. This scent is thought to deter mosquitoes, but that has never been proven; still, citronella remains a sought-after plant for summer with its textured foliage, delicate pink flowers, and that intoxicating scent when the leaves are crushed.

The plant is only hardy in US hardiness zones 9-11. When you grow citronella in warmer climates, it can be a perennial. In colder climates, it can either be treated as an annual or brought indoors for winter. Overwintering citronella plants indoors is simple and more sustainable than throwing away perfectly good plants at the end of each season.

Here is a straightforward guide to overwintering citronella plants indoors, including what to do and when, and a few common pitfalls to avoid. If your citronella plants spend summer in the ground, they need to be dug up and put into pots for winter. I always use terracotta pots for pelargoniums, like these eight-inch terracotta pots at Walmart.

How to Overwinter Citronella Plants in 4 Easy Steps

It may be unproven that citronella repels mosquitoes – even though you may see it marked as the ‘mosquito plant’ by retailers – but there are still plenty of good reasons to grow this scented pelargonium.

The sweet lemon fragrance from the serrated foliage is released when the leaves are crushed or brushed past and fills the air with a beautiful blast of citrus.

Citronella plants are ideal low-maintenance plants for pots that can live on a table, deck, or patio over summer, then retreat indoors for winter. Don’t be wasteful and let them succumb to winter; bring the tender plant indoors in November before the frosts.

Overwintering citronella plants saves you from needing to buy new plants annually and is a more sustainable way to garden than throwing everything away at the end of each season.

1. Bring the Plant Indoors

In climates that experience frost, overwintering citronella plants indoors is crucial. Only in US hardiness zones 9-11 is it likely to overwinter outdoors successfully with a layer of mulch to protect the roots.

The time to bring citronella plants indoors is when nighttime temperatures start falling to 45°F. Extended periods below this cause wilting and yellowing leaves. If frost touches a citronella plant, it will be severely damaged or killed. Monitor your local forecasts to act quickly when the nights get cold. This wireless weather station on Amazon provides accurate readings and weather forecasts.

Plants growing in containers can be easily brought indoors to a bright, cool location for winter. They will be happy at temperatures of 45°F to 50°F over winter, such as in a frost-free greenhouse or conservatory. Steady temperatures are best, so keep them away from fluctuating temperatures from radiators, air ducts, or heating vents.

Any citronella plants in flower beds or raised beds need to be dug up and put into containers to overwinter indoors. Fill your pots with well-draining potting soil, like this organic potting mix at Burpee.

It's worth bearing in mind that citronella is toxic to both humans and pets. If you're overwintering your plants indoors, then keep them well away from any nosy household pets.

2. Cut the Plants Back

The plants will continue to slowly grow at 45°F to 50°F through winter. It may feel harsh, but good practice is to cut the plant back by up to half when you bring it indoors for winter.

Use clean, sharp pruning shears (like these pruning snips at Burpee) and cut the stems back to just above a leaf node. You can use some of this material for pelargonium cuttings if you want to expand your citronella collection or act as an insurance policy in case you lose any over winter.

After trimming plants, check thoroughly for any pests or their eggs. When overwintering citronella plants, you don’t want to invite pests indoors to spread to other indoor plants.

You can combat any pest problems with insecticidal soap, available at Walmart.

3. Give Them Good Light

When overwintering citronella plants, they need light, air circulation, and frost protection to stay safe and healthy. Light ensures healthy growth, ventilation stops mold, and frost-free conditions keep them alive.

Pelargoniums need a bright, sunny spot for winter. This can be in a greenhouse, conservatory, porch, or on a west- or south-facing windowsill. Ideally, they will get at least six hours of light per day.

If they cannot get enough natural light during the colder, darker months, LED grow lights can supplement the levels over winter.

Grow lights are often useful for houseplants during winter to support healthy growth and keep them vibrant. Use a full-spectrum grow light like this on Amazon and position it at least six inches above the plant.

4. Reduce Watering Over Winter

Overwintering citronella plants need careful watering. Pelargoniums always require a delicate touch with a watering can. The soil needs to dry out between waterings, even during summer.

Citronella does not like sitting in wet soil for long periods – it can be easy to overwater indoor plants. The risks are especially high during the winter, when you need to water much less often than at other times of year. It can mean watering only every 2-4 weeks while the plant is indoors for winter.

Soak the plant, then keep a close eye on the soil and don’t water again until it dries out. A soil moisture meter, available on Amazon, can help you judge when to water plants over winter.

What you shouldn’t do over winter is feed plants. When early spring arrives, increase the watering and give the citronella its first feed of the year.

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Any tender houseplants that come outdoors for summer also need to be moved back indoors well before the first frost. Along with pelargoniums, the likes of begonias, succulents, bromeliads, pothos, and Boston ferns should be among the plants you protect first before frost arrives. When the temperatures dip to 45-50°F, that is time to bring them indoors.

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Hostas are low-maintenance perennials. They don’t need hours of painstaking attention to produce a rich, decorative display of foliage in all their different shades or patterns. But they are not no-maintenance, and once the plants die down at the end of the season, a trio of tasks can protect your hostas from pests, disease, frost, and rot.

The key hosta care tasks to remember for this month are removing old leaves and debris, mulching, and protecting potted plants. These simple maintenance tasks keep the plants in the best shape over winter and primed to return strongly in spring.

Here is what to do with hostas in November so plants survive winter frosts and freezing rain, and don’t face an immediate risk of slugs, snails, or disease when they start regrowing next year. You will need a good pair of gardening gloves (available at Amazon) to winterize hostas, as the old growth can be slimy, especially after frost.

1. Remove Old Leaves

Slugs and snails are the bane of any hosta grower’s life. The common winter garden pests are notorious for nibbling hosta foliage, turning what should be glorious leaves into a patchwork of holes and skeletal remains.

Getting rid of all slugs and snails in the garden is a pipe dream, but one important job stops them overwintering around the hostas and coming back with a vengeance to eat all the new growth straight away in the spring. That is by removing all the old leaves and debris from around the plant.

This leaf litter is a protected space where pests can shelter and lay their eggs. Removing it stops the fresh generation from running amok come spring and destroying your hostas before they’ve had a chance to get going.

Evicting them from their winter hiding hole is also an efficient slug control method because it puts them out in the open for birds to see and potentially eat.

If you haven’t already, remove any dead or yellow hosta leaves from flower beds or containers along with any other nearby leaf litter. Dead leaves or debris may also harbor disease – removing them stops bacteria or spores from overwintering and infecting your hostas next year.

My go-to gardening tool for clearing beds is a hand rake, such as this stainless steel hand rake at The Home Depot. It takes little time to run the rake around the base of plants to gather debris.

It is usually easy to cut back hostas in the fall, as most old hosta leaves are stringy or mushy come November and come away easily. If any don’t, snip them at ground level with sharp pruners, like these titanium bypass pruning shears at Amazon.

2. Apply Mulch

Hostas are cold-hardy down to US hardiness zone 3; they die back in the fall and come back to life in the spring. To get your hosta in the best possible shape to grow again next year and put on a really good show, mulching can be an enormously beneficial task.

Mulching retains warmth in the soil and protects the hostas' roots from the cold temperatures. It prevents frost heave, when repeated freezing and thawing lift a plant from the soil. In the worst case, frost heave can lift a hosta from the ground, leaving its unprotected roots vulnerable to the elements.

If you recently planted hostas and they haven’t had time to form a strong, deep root system, they are at increased risk of frost heave. Also, if you divided hostas in the fall to get new plants and rejuvenate older clumps, they are more susceptible.

Other mulching benefits include discouraging weeds that compete with your hostas for water and nutrients and retaining moisture in the soil. Hostas are thirsty plants, and well-watered ones traditionally come back stronger in the spring.

After cutting back hostas in the fall, add a thin layer of compost, wood chips, or bark mulch. But don’t make the mulching mistake of piling this material over the crown, as it can trap moisture and encourage rot.

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3. Move Pots

Hostas, as a whole, are very hardy plants that don’t need winter protection. The two exceptions are newly planted hostas and those growing in pots.

If you grow miniature hostas in pots, they need extra attention to get through winter unscathed. Plants are more susceptible in containers, with only a thin layer of compost and the pot providing insulation between the roots and frost.

The easiest way to protect garden pots for winter is moving them together into a sheltered area, like against a south-facing wall or under the eaves. It creates a warmer microclimate, blocks cold winds, and protects them from winter rain.

If you have just a pot or two of miniature hostas growing in containers, though, put them in an unheated greenhouse, cold frame, or porch for winter. Or you can wrap them in winter pot covers (like these on Walmart) to insulate the roots.

However, they are not indoor plants and shouldn’t be brought into the home. Hostas need to remain dormant but sheltered from frost and freezing rain.

To prevent waterlogging and hostas rotting over winter, raise them on pot feet so the container drains efficiently over the colder months. The last thing you want is plants sitting in waterlogged soil, which then freezes solid. You can get a 24-pack of rubber pot feet on Amazon for all your container plants.

Now that you know what to do with hostas in November, it is worth pointing out one important task not to do this month. That is fertilizing hostas. Don’t think about feeding hosta plants until new growth starts to emerge in the spring.

This timing is perfect; a spring feed gives the plant all the essential nutrients it needs to develop its lush foliage for the season.

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As fall arrives, the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) comes into its own, producing vibrant flowers in shades of pink, red, orange, purple, and white. This popular holiday houseplant is relatively easy to care for, but getting Thanksgiving cactus care right starts with choosing the best position. Where you place your plant can make all the difference when it comes to encouraging healthy growth and protecting its delicate flower buds.

Native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil, the Thanksgiving cactus grows in conditions quite different from those preferred by desert-dwelling cacti. Rather than baking in direct sunlight, it naturally thrives in sheltered spots where it receives filtered light and benefits from humidity.

Recreating these conditions at home is key to keeping your Thanksgiving cactus happy in November, particularly as it prepares to flower. Choosing the right position can also help prevent common problems, including yellowing stems and flower buds dropping before they have a chance to open.

Whether you're displaying a Thanksgiving cactus on a windowsill, adding one to a living room shelf, or using it as a seasonal centerpiece, here's where to position this beautiful holiday plant for the best results.

1. Near an East-Facing Window for Bright, Indirect Light

One of the best places for a Thanksgiving cactus is near an east-facing window, where it can enjoy gentle morning sunlight without being exposed to the harsh afternoon rays that can scorch its stems.

Thanksgiving cacti are adapted to the dappled light of their natural rainforest habitat, so they prefer bright, indirect light over prolonged direct sun. A spot a short distance from a bright window works well, as long as the plant still gets plenty of natural light throughout the day.

If you don't have enough windowsill space, a plant stand can help position your Thanksgiving cactus closer to a natural light source. The Hearth & Hand with Magnolia Wood Plant Stand at Target is a practical and stylish option for elevating your plant.

A north-facing window may also work, although you may need to position the plant closer to the glass if the room is particularly dim. During fall and winter, weaker sunlight makes a bright windowsill more suitable, but watch out for intense direct rays through south- or west-facing windows. Sheer curtains, such as those from Target's Room Essentials range, can help soften strong sunlight while still allowing natural light into the room.

2. In a Living Room With a Consistent Temperature

A warm, comfortable living room can be an excellent place to display a Thanksgiving cactus, provided you choose a spot away from heating vents, fireplaces, and frequently opened exterior doors.

These tropical plants prefer stable conditions and can react poorly to sudden temperature changes. Cold drafts and hot air from heating vents can contribute to flower bud drop. Aim for a comfortable room temperature of around 60–70°F, with slightly cooler conditions at night to support flowering.

A side table near a bright window can be a good compromise, giving your Thanksgiving cactus sufficient light without exposing it to direct heat. A digital indoor thermometer from Amazon is also a useful addition, helping you monitor room temperatures and spot fluctuations that could affect your plant.

If your home becomes particularly dry during the colder months, a small cool-mist humidifier from Walmart can help maintain more comfortable humidity levels.

If you notice buds forming, try to keep your Thanksgiving cactus in its chosen position rather than moving it repeatedly between rooms. Consistency is especially important during this stage.

3. On a Shelf or Plant Stand Where Its Stems Can Trail

Thanksgiving cacti have an attractive, cascading growth habit, with segmented stems that become increasingly elegant as the plant matures.

Placing one on a shelf, sideboard, or plant stand allows its stems to spill naturally over the edge while keeping its flowers at eye level. A raised position can be particularly effective if you're working with limited space or want to incorporate your Thanksgiving cactus into a seasonal display. Choose a shelf close to a window or another bright area of the home, rather than a dark corner where insufficient light could affect growth and flowering.

A decorative ceramic planter with a drainage hole from Amazon is a lovely way to display your Thanksgiving cactus while supporting its growing needs. Just make sure excess water can drain freely into a saucer and is emptied regularly. Thanksgiving cacti appreciate consistent moisture while growing and flowering, but their roots should never sit in waterlogged potting mix.

4. In a Humid Room Away From Cold Drafts

Although Thanksgiving cacti can adapt to typical indoor conditions, they appreciate a little extra humidity. In their native rainforest environment, they grow in humid surroundings rather than the dry air associated with desert cacti. A bright bathroom can be a suitable position if it has a window and receives enough natural light. The humidity may be beneficial, particularly during the colder months when indoor heating can dry the air. A kitchen may also work, provided the plant is kept away from hot appliances, cooking fumes, and sudden temperature fluctuations.

If your home is particularly dry, consider placing the pot on a humidity pebble tray, available from Amazon, filled with water. Just ensure the bottom of the pot sits above the waterline. Alternatively, a Canopy Bedside Humidifier can help increase moisture in the air around your plant, particularly during the colder months when indoor heating can make conditions too dry.

Avoid positioning your Thanksgiving cactus beside a heating vent or fireplace, even if the spot appears bright. Warm, dry air can create an unsuitable environment, and the plant may respond by dropping its developing buds.

5. In a Dining Room as a Thanksgiving Centerpiece

With its colorful seasonal flowers, a Thanksgiving cactus can make a beautiful addition to a dining room, particularly when you're hosting friends and family for Thanksgiving.

Place it on a table, sideboard, or console near a bright window to create an attractive display and let the flowers become part of your seasonal decorating scheme. If you'd like to use your plant as a centerpiece, place it where it gets enough indirect light and where guests won't accidentally knock its stems or spill water into the pot.

A decorative planter can also make your Thanksgiving cactus feel like part of your seasonal tablescape. The Tessanne Planter Pot from Lulu and Georgia has a beautiful scalloped ceramic design that adds a subtle decorative touch to a sideboard or dining table. Use it as a cover pot for your cactus, keeping it in its original container to ensure proper drainage.

For a more natural look, a woven plant stand from Target can also help dress up a simple nursery pot, adding texture to your Thanksgiving display while complementing seasonal decor.

Keep in mind that a dining table in the middle of a room may not provide enough light for the plant to thrive over the longer term. You can always move it to a brighter position after entertaining, but avoid frequent changes once flower buds have formed.

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Where Not to Place a Thanksgiving Cactus

Knowing where to avoid placing your Thanksgiving cactus is just as important as choosing the right position.

Avoid intense, direct sunlight. Prolonged exposure to strong sunshine, particularly during the warmer months, can scorch the stems and cause them to look pale or discolored. Bright, filtered light is a safer choice.

Keep it away from heating vents and fireplaces. Hot, dry air can stress the plant, while sudden changes in temperature may cause flower buds to drop before opening.

Avoid cold, drafty windowsills. Thanksgiving cacti are tropical plants and do not tolerate freezing conditions. A chilly windowsill may be problematic during cold weather, particularly if the plant is exposed to cold air overnight.

Don't leave it in a dark corner. Although the plant needs uninterrupted darkness at night to initiate flowering, it still requires bright light during the day. A permanently dim position is unlikely to provide the conditions needed for healthy growth and an impressive display.

Avoid moving it unnecessarily once buds appear. Changes in light, temperature, and humidity can affect developing buds. Once you find a suitable spot, try to keep conditions as consistent as possible throughout flowering.

What Feng Shui Says About Thanksgiving Cactus Placement

Beyond its seasonal appeal, a Thanksgiving cactus can bring color and a sense of vitality to your home during the colder months. Its rounded, arching stems and vivid flowers make it a natural focal point in a living room or another shared space.

In Feng Shui, plants are often used to represent growth, renewal, and vitality. A healthy, flowering Thanksgiving cactus can fit naturally into this approach, particularly when displayed in an area where family and friends gather.

A living room or bright dining area can therefore be a meaningful place for the plant, combining its decorative appeal with the welcoming atmosphere associated with the holiday season.

However, Feng Shui placement should be considered a personal or cultural preference rather than a scientifically established way to influence prosperity or relationships. From a horticultural perspective, adequate light, suitable temperatures, and consistent care remain the most important factors.

While the bright red blooms of amaryllis may be what we all patiently anticipate, there is beauty in the bulbs yet to flower – and styling them with their tall green stems on show shouldn't be overlooked.

If you planted amaryllis bulbs for a festive display, don't wait until they bloom to put them out. You can display amaryllis bulbs before they flower in so many beautiful ways, celebrating each stage of their growth. From kokedama to rustic vessels, putting amaryllis shoots on display makes it all the more exciting to watch them grow taller and eventually burst open with vibrant color.

Plus, the impressive height of amaryllis stems (typically 12-24") can bring structure to living centerpieces, especially when paired with other indoor bulbs like paperwhites (which you can pick up from Walmart). Here, we look at seven of the most elegant styling ideas for the holiday season.

1. Use a Clear Vase

One of the easiest ways to force bulbs indoors is with a special bulb forcing vase (like this from Amazon). It holds the bulbs above a water reservoir where the roots grow.

The best part is these vases are usually clear glass (you can even get a green amaryllis bulb vase from Amazon for extra color), so you can observe root growth. Having a few lined up on a windowsill is effortlessly impressive.

Alternatively, you can recreate the styling in the image above by planting your amaryllis bulb in a clear vase (like this oval glass vase from Wayfair). Moss can be added to provide moisture-retention and for an aesthetic finish.

In whatever case, the transparent vessel offers a look beneath the surface while your amaryllis is growing.

2. Kokedama Style

Kokedama is a Japanese tradition of growing plants in a moss ball, typically used as a hanging basket alternative, though you can also display them atop a table surface.

By wrapping your amaryllis bulbs in moss (which you can order from Walmart) and following the steps to make kokedama, you can instantly make your amaryllis look more interesting.

Take it a step further by hanging your amaryllis kokedama from the ceiling above your dining table or in bright windows, which will support blooming. Mixing in festive kokedama using other popular holiday plants (like this poinsettia from Walmart) will offer an even more breathtaking display.

3. Style Up Waxed Bulbs

The joy of waxed amaryllis bulbs is that they're super low-maintenance and don't need any watering to grow. The wax holds in moisture, so you can simply set it up and enjoy the blooms open up.

While it is effortlessly beautiful to simply position your waxed amaryllis bulbs (which you can purchase from Walmart) on a coffee table, shelf, or elsewhere, adding some decorative touches can bring the display to life.

One idea is using wood slice centerpieces (like these from Amazon) to place the bulbs at different heights. Add some fairy lights and foraged moss, foliage, and pinecones to create a dreamy woodland display.

4. Group Terracotta Pots

Festive bulbs in rustic pots is timelessly sophisticated and super easy. You simply have to plant your bulbs in a selection of clay and terracotta planters – mixing different tones often makes the most impressive display.

You can then arrange your different pots together for an en masse display, whether as a centerpiece or in your living room as living Christmas decor.

When growing amaryllis in pots like this, use moss on the surface level to bring the look together, as well as lock in moisture for healthy growth.

5. Repurpose Vintage Ceramics

An alternative to amaryllis bulbs in terracotta pots is planting them in a range of vintage ceramics.

You can repurpose thrifted vessels, kitchen pots, old decorative tins, and more. I love the range of vintage-style floral pots on Amazon which would naturally slot into this look.

Once again, mixing planter heights can help create a more curated look. You could also place different bulbs in different spots around your home to tie your decor together.

6. Pair with Paperwhites

When it comes to the best bulbs for Christmas flowering, paperwhites tend to bloom much sooner than amaryllis. When paired together, this offers a successional display through the holiday season and beyond.

You can simply arrange your potted paperwhites among your potted amaryllis bulbs. The result will be dainty white blooms among tall amaryllis stems getting ready for their moment to flower. Once the paperwhites finish, you'll still have the showy amaryllis flowers to enjoy.

If you want them to bloom at the same time, a bit of pre-planning is required. You can stagger their planting by first planting amaryllis bulbs 6-8 weeks before your desired bloom period and paperwhites 3-4 weeks before.

7. Add Companion Plants

To make your non-blooming amaryllis shoots more interesting, plant them up with accompanying, textural companions.

Some of the best choices include moss, ferns, ivy, and cyclamen, which are low-growing and typically start to flower before amaryllis and right through to early spring.

You can even use the thriller, spiller, filler container method for an abundant arrangement, with the amaryllis being the showstopper thriller and surrounding plants offering a green foundation.

Find indoor cyclamen at Walmart.

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These are just a few ideas to incorporate amaryllis bulbs into your festive floral centerpiece, but there are plenty of other possibilities for these holiday staples.

Towards the end of your amaryllis' display this year, don't forget to read up on when to cut back amaryllis and how to store amaryllis bulbs to plant again next year.

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Blueberries are low-maintenance fruit bushes producing highly nutritious, tasty berries. Some varieties can tolerate extremely low temperatures, but all blueberry bushes have one thing in common: shallow root systems. This means mulching becomes a winter task to keep them safe and prospering.

Mulching when you grow blueberries provides multiple benefits. It protects roots from freezing temperatures, while also improving the soil to suit the blueberries' needs. Do this key task each late fall or early winter, and your plants will be healthy year after year and provide a bountiful crop.

Here is how to winterize blueberry bushes quickly using only mulch, which you can do in many climates, though some plants may need a bit more attention. Be prepared to mulch blueberries in the ground and in pots – the latter of which need extra protection for winter, which we cover here too. A bag of pine bark mulch, like this one at Lowe’s, is a perfect mulch for blueberries.

Mulch Blueberries Thickly to Protect the Roots

Blueberries are very cold-hardy fruits, but their exact tolerance depends on the variety. The hardiest, northern highbush, can tolerate temperatures below -20°F and is suitable for colder regions. At the other end of the scale, southern highbush blueberries can get damaged once temperatures go below freezing, and are better suited to climates with milder winters.

When you plant blueberries, they will always need protection for their first winter in the ground, as the plants will not be fully established. Going forward, even hardy blueberries can reap the rewards of a layer of winter mulch to protect the plant’s shallow roots. A layer of mulch each fall insulates the soil from freezing, retains moisture, smothers weeds, and provides essential nutrients as it breaks down.

Because most of a blueberry's root system is in the top 12 inches of soil, it is vulnerable to deep winter frosts and to drying out in summer.

The addition of organic matter as mulch each year gives them a buffer against the cold – which is vital if you live in climates with deep winter frosts – and improves the soil structure, allowing it to hold onto more moisture at the warmer times of year.

Blueberries prefer acidic soil, with a pH around 4.5-5.5. You can help create the ideal conditions for them by using certain types of mulch each winter.

Mulching with pine bark, pine needles, or wood chips (such as this Miracle-Gro wood mulch at The Home Depot) helps to make the soil more acidic. It won’t dramatically lower the pH alone, though, so it is recommended to test the pH of the soil every few years (get a soil test kit at Amazon) to make sure it is right for your blueberries.

Spread a layer 3-4 inches deep right out to the drip line – the circle on the ground underneath the bush’s branches. But leave a small gap a few inches wide around the base. When you pile the mulch against the stem, it usually leads to rot over winter.

If you grow blueberries in a climate that gets extremely cold winters, you can give plants an added insurance policy against the cold by wrapping them in frost cloth or burlap. You can get horticultural fleece at Walmart to protect plants from frost.

You Must Protect Blueberries in Pots

Growing blueberries in pots is an achievable way for anyone with alkaline soil to cultivate the fruit. You can grow the berries in containers filled with ericaceous compost (available on Amazon) and get a harvest of blueberries to enjoy.

However, while bushes in the ground can tolerate freezing temperatures, it is a different story in pots. You always need to winterize blueberry bushes in containers, as the roots are far more susceptible to cold and frost than when growing in the ground.

Depending on your garden and climate, it may be as simple as moving pots together for winter against a protected wall where they can benefit from a warmer microclimate.

Alternatively, you can mulch over the surface of the soil and wrap the pots in frost cloth, burlap, or use winter pot covers, such as the pot protection bags on Amazon.

However you winterize blueberry bushes in containers, always raise them off the ground with pot feet to ensure the pots drain well over the colder months. You can get a pack of rubber pot feet at Walmart.

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To encourage new growth and get a blueberry bush to fruit strongly, you do want to prune blueberries each winter. However, it is not a job for early winter. Instead, do it in late winter or early spring, just before the plant is starting to wake up for the new season.

If you want new bushes to add to your collection, you can do two jobs at once and propagate blueberries from hardwood cuttings at the same time as pruning the plants.

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