Midsummer is a time when rich bounties are coming from the vegetable garden. August is also a perfect time to sow vegetables that will provide glorious harvests through fall and potentially into winter. Here we look at some fantastic vegetables to sow in August.

Crops like lettuce, carrots, turnips, arugula, kohlrabi, and oriental leaves germinate and grow quickly in the late-summer sunshine. They can easily fill empty spaces left by crops you have already picked and keep your plot productive late into the year.

When planting a second crop in vegetable garden beds or raised beds, it is important to supplement the soil with additional nutrients. Add some compost, balanced fertilizer, or chicken manure pellets (like these on Amazon) to ensure your new crops have the nutrients they need to thrive. Add some of our vegetables to sow in August to be enjoying homegrown harvests within weeks.

Carrots

August is the last window to plant carrots for a homegrown crop of succulent roots. Sowing carrots in August can give you a fall crop from October.

When growing carrots outside, pick smaller, fast-growing varieties, such as ‘Early Nantes’, ‘Short n Sweet’, or ‘Parisian’. These speedier carrots produce shorter or round roots, but they go from sowing to harvesting in 12-18 weeks.

Weed, prepare, and rake the soil to a fine tilth beforehand. Sow carrot seeds thinly in shallow drills. I water the drills before sowing the seeds to help get them off to a strong start. Keep the soil consistently moist after sowing, as carrot seeds won’t germinate if the soil dries out fully.

Be careful thinning seedlings to avoid carrot fly (you can cover the crop with insect netting to stop the pests, such as this mesh netting at Walmart). Come late fall, you can cover the crop with fleece or straw to protect them against the early frosts.

Get ‘Short n Sweet’ carrot seeds at Burpee

Get ‘Parisian’ carrot seeds at True Leaf Market

Turnips

Turnips are never seen as the most glamorous root crops, but they have always been a staple in my plots. They are fast-growing vegetables ready in 6-10 weeks from sowing and a great choice for filling gaps in the kitchen garden. Or, you can get a quick crop of baby turnips between other slower-growing vegetables.

You can get yellow, white, or purple-topped varieties of turnips. I always tend to pick the white-skinned varieties, such as these silky sweet turnip seeds at Burpee, at home, but grew lots of purple-topped turnips (usually these purple top white globe seeds at True Leaf Market) for chefs during my time as a specialist kitchen gardener.

Always directly sow seeds outdoors when growing turnips. They don’t like root disturbance, so won’t react well to being started indoors and transplanted. Sow the seeds thinly into a half-inch deep drill, cover them, and keep moist. Thin the seedlings to six inches apart.

Kohlrabi

This unique vegetable may look like a spaceship from a sci-fi movie, but it is a delicious, versatile crop becoming increasingly popular in modern vegetable gardens. Kohlrabi is a brassica that comes in purple or white forms and produces a swollen base. It can be eaten raw or roasted, steamed, or sautéed.

Sow kohlrabi seeds into half-inch deep drills and keep the ground moist. The seeds tend to germinate quickly and need to be thinned to six inches apart. It is recommended to cover the crop with netting to protect against pests such as cabbage white butterflies, caterpillars, and loppers.

Kohlrabi takes 50-70 days to develop and is ready when the swollen stems are 3-4 inches in diameter. The best size for texture and flavor is to harvest kohlrabi when the crop is larger than a golf ball but not as big as a tennis ball. When kohlrabi gets too large, it turns woody and loses the sweet flavor.

Get White Vienna kohlrabi seeds at Amazon

Get Purple Vienna kohlrabi seeds at Burpee

Lettuce

A wide variety of lettuce seeds can be sown in August to provide you with harvests into fall and early winter.

After the summer peak begins to wind down, cool-weather crops can thrive, especially when you plant lettuce in a shady spot or cover it with shade cloth (you can get 55% shade cloth at Walmart) to protect it during hot periods.

Sow seeds a few inches apart in half-inch drills, keep them moist, and then thin the seedlings to 6-12 inches apart. Any exact distance will depend on the variety, so refer to the seed packets for guidance.

Slugs and snails are notorious for nibbling on lettuce seedlings as they germinate, so cover plants with cloches or place rough surfaces or beer traps (get beer traps for snails and slugs at Amazon) around your crops.

You can start harvesting cut-and-come-again lettuces once the leaves are large enough to use. And they will continue to provide pickings well into fall.

This lettuce seed collection at Amazon features 10 different varieties of lettuce, many of which can be planted in August for fall harvests.

Swiss Chard

Swiss chard is a hardy thoroughbred for the vegetable garden. A sowing in August first provides you with harvests of tasty baby leaves in fall. Plus the vegetable can overwinter outdoors with ease. It means you can enjoy harvests of Swiss chard leaves throughout winter and into spring.

I really enjoy growing Swiss chard. I always love the ‘Bright Lights’ variety as it adds a rainbow of colorful leaves to the vegetable garden. And this year I am also growing ‘Fordhook Giant’ and am impressed by the size of the leaves (I know, the giant in the name should’ve given it away).

Get Bright Light Swiss chard seeds at Burpee

Get Fordhook Giant Swiss chard seeds at Burpee

Plant Swiss chard seeds thinly (at least four inches apart) in drills that are an inch deep. Keep them consistently moist, and thin seedlings to 18 inches apart so the plants have room to reach full size and don’t suffer from fungal issues caused by poor air circulation.

Oriental Greens

Oriental greens are great vegetables to sow in August as they can provide flavorful harvests to perk up plates in fall.

Whether it is mizuna or mustard greens for peppery leaves or bok choy (get baby choi bok choy seeds at Botanical Interests) and tatsoi for sweet, earthy tones, these crops can be eaten raw or cooked in a wide variety of dishes.

I have always found mizuna a reliable performer, and these Mizuna Red Streaks seeds at True Leaf Market can go from sowing to cropping in 45 days. And I’ve always enjoyed the darker, textured leaves of some mustards, which stand out in the garden. A good example is these Red Giant mustard seeds at Burpee.

Not only are they easy-growing and attractive, but you can pick these two above as cut-and-come-again vegetables.

Oriental greens are cool-weather crops suited to sowing in late summer or early fall. They can successfully grow in raised beds or containers, making them perfect for fall harvests in smaller spaces.

Fill any pot, planter, or windowbox with a well-draining potting mix, like this organic potting mix at Walmart, and sow the seeds directly into the soil.

Radish

August is a great time for growing radishes, primarily as there are three different types you can sow this month.

Many gardeners often stick to planting salad radishes. But August is an opportunity to broaden your horizons, as it is also time for both oriental varieties, known as daikon or mooli, and winter radishes.

The classic salad radishes, such as ‘Cherry Belle’, ‘Early Scarlet Globe’ and ‘French Breakfast ’ (get French Breakfast seeds at Burpee), can be sown and will be ready to harvest in less than a month. Sow them into drills and thin the seedlings to 4-6 inches apart.

Asian radishes are also fast-growing and take 7-8 weeks from sowing to harvesting. Sow the seeds thinly and thin the seedlings to 6-8 inches apart. You can get Daikon radish seeds at Amazon.

Finally, winter radishes are larger than the salad types and take longer to grow. Sow them into drills in August and thin them to 6-8 inches apart. These types will be ready to harvest in late fall or winter.

This collection of radish seeds at Amazon has five varieties of summer radishes, plus Black Spanish round winter radish.

It is also not too late to plant flowers this month to add color and interest to the garden later in the fall. Our guide to flowers to sow in August includes fast-growing blooms, such as calendula, sweet alyssum, and viola, that will give you beautiful flowers this year.

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Tomato leaf curl is a common problem during the growing season and a sign that your plants are not happy. It is typically a physiological response to a lack of moisture, nutrients, or temperature, but sometimes can be caused by pests.

Gardeners want a smooth process when growing tomatoes, from sowing or planting to picking the ripe fruits at harvest time. Tomato leaves curling may send a shiver down the spine, but it does not mean it is time to panic. There are quick, simple changes you can make to keep your tomato plants happy.

Tomato leaf curl typically affects the oldest foliage first, and these affected leaves are best removed with sharp pruning tools (such as these Felco F2 pruning shears at Amazon) to keep the plant healthy. At the first sign of curling, consider it a call to action. Here we look at the four most common causes of tomato leaf curl, along with easy fixes to address the issue and preserve your tomato crop.

1. Watering

Tomatoes prefer consistently moist soil throughout the season. A lack of water can cause plants to curl their foliage as they try to conserve moisture, especially during warmer periods. Drying out is especially risky when you grow tomatoes in pots.

At the other end of the scale, overwatering can also cause leaf curl. In addition to curling, yellowing tomato leaves is another tell-tale sign of excess moisture in the soil.

Consistency is key when watering tomatoes. This includes regularly checking the moisture levels and deep watering rather than a little-and-often approach.

One effective way to achieve this consistency is to use a soil moisture meter to check the moisture levels beneath the surface. A meter like this soil moisture meter on Amazon can provide quick readings to help you confidently determine when to water plants.

Such an approach ensures evenness and can help alleviate blossom-end rot affecting the fruits.

Mulching around plants is also a recommended method for retaining moisture in the soil and preventing it from drying out too quickly. The best materials for mulching tomato plants include bark, compost, or straw. You can get bags of pine bark mulch at Lowe's.

2. Temperature

Tomatoes are known to thrive in warmth and sun. However, there can be too much of a good thing.

The plants get stressed when temperatures go over 90°F. This causes them to curl their leaves to conserve water. Reducing the surface area means less transpiration, as the plant tries to hold onto the moisture it has.

It can be an issue if you are growing tomatoes in warmer climates or plant them in a greenhouse that can heat up over summer.

In hotter climates, it can be beneficial to plant tomatoes in a spot that gets afternoon shade to protect them from the scorching temperatures. Or you can cover plants from intense sunlight with shade cloth, such as this 50% shade cloth at Amazon.

If you grow tomatoes in buckets, pots, or grow bags, move them out of direct sunlight during a heatwave to prevent leaves from curling.

Tomato leaf curl can also be caused by cold, too. If temperatures drop below 54°F, the leaves can curl inwards as a protective measure. To prevent this, don’t plant tomatoes outdoors too early. And always harden off plants to get them accustomed to outdoor temperatures.

If you are growing tomatoes in windy sites, giving them a protected spot is beneficial, as cold winds can scorch the edges of leaves and cause them to curl.

3. Nutrition

Tomatoes are hungry plants that require lots of nutrients to grow and produce fruit throughout the season. If they don’t get the essential nutrients they need, the leaves start to curl as a result.

Fertilizing tomatoes is a vital task for healthy plants and bumper yields. The trick is to start with a balanced fertilizer (such as this organic all-purpose plant food at Burpee) and switch to a feed higher in phosphorus and potassium (like this tomato booster at Walmart) once the plants start flowering.

You don’t want to give tomato plants too much nitrogen. Plants with an excess of nitrogen produce too much foliage, making it unsustainable for the plant to support all this lush growth. So the leaves curl.

Regular feeding avoids issues linked to a lack of certain nutrients. For example, a deficiency of potassium or phosphorus can result in stunted growth or curling leaves.

Use a liquid tomato feed once flowering begins and feed plants every two or three weeks until late summer. Such products are fast-acting and deliver nutrients quickly to plants, but need to be applied often to be most effective.

There are also opportunities to make your own tomato fertilizer, such as a comfrey tea or nettle feed.

4. Pest or Disease

Tomato leaf curl is often the result of environmental stress, but not always. Tomato pests can cause the issue, particularly aphids, whiteflies, thrips, spider mites, and broad mites, which all suck sap from leaves and stems.

Small sap-sucking summer pests like these can be squashed between your finger and thumb, removed from the plant with a jet of water, or sprayed with insecticidal soap (like this ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart).

A way to avoid pest problems is to use tomato companion plants, which can repel pests or attract beneficial natural predators. The likes of marigolds or chives can deter many pests, while sweet alyssum and dill can draw in predators to feast on pests and protect your plants.

Pests also bring the risk of spreading tomato diseases. And leaf spot, mosaic virus, and tomato yellow leaf curl virus all have leaf curl among their symptoms. Unfortunately, such viral diseases need plants to be removed to prevent any spread.

It is advisable to look for disease-resistant tomato varieties when planning which types to grow to mitigate the potential risks during the season. For example, these ‘Bodacious’ tomato seeds from Burpee are disease-resistant and produce large, round fruits.

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FAQs

How Do You Tell if Tomatoes Are Overwatered?

When it comes to how much water tomato plants need, they generally need about an inch or two of water weekly. However, this can vary depending on the weather, rainfall, and whether the plants are in the ground, raised beds, or containers.

Overwatered tomato plants can wilt, droop, and have yellow leaves. In addition, the fruit can crack or split, and there may be green mold on the soil surface due to excess moisture.

Tomato leaves curling is frustrating, but so is a plant that flowers but doesn’t fruit. If your tomato plants are not fruiting, it is usually due to blossom drop, where the flowers fall before being pollinated.

Blossom-end drop can be caused by temperatures too high or too low. Or it can be due to a lack of pollinators. If you want to hand-pollinate plants to get fruit, you can move pollen with cotton swabs or a toothbrush, or try the tomato tapping trick and shake plants to distribute pollen from flower to flower

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I’ll start by admitting that 2026 has not been a great year for my eggplant plants so far. I sowed them indoors in spring, as usual, but progress has been really slow. I still have high hopes for them, though, and I will pinch the eggplants to encourage (hopefully) bushier growth and more fruits.

When you pinch eggplant plants, it encourages side branches rather than a straight, upright plant. A bushier plant will be stronger and can grow more fruits. As the plant develops, it is also beneficial to pinch eggplant side shoots and flowers.

If you know how to grow eggplant, you may already know the benefits of pinching. But not all growers do. So here I look at the reasons to pinch eggplant and how to do it for robust and productive plants. If you haven’t planted yours yet, you can get a four-pack of ‘Black Beauty’ eggplant seedlings at Amazon to add to your vegetable garden and pinch them for bushier plants.

How to Pinch Eggplant for More Fruits

If you pinch eggplant, you’ll get lots of side shoots, which helps make the plant more productive. Pinching out the main growing tip encourages branching, rather than upright growth. The reward is a bushier plant, rather than a straight-up one, with more stems that give you lots of eggplant to pick.

A bushy plant will also be sturdier and better at supporting fruits. You’ll still need to support plants with a strong bamboo cane or vegetable garden trellis, but there will be less risk of upright stems snapping under the weight of the fruits.

The ideal time to pinch eggplant is when it is at least one foot tall and has six or more sets of healthy leaves. Don’t be tempted to pinch when transplanting seedlings, as you need the plant to settle and develop strong roots in its new home before you pinch. It wants to be actively growing, so it responds well to being pinched rather than getting stressed.

To pinch eggplant, simply remove the top growing point. This can be done with your fingers or with sharp pruning tools, such as pruning shears or snips, like these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Walmart.

You don’t want to pinch eggplant if you are growing naturally compact or dwarf varieties. These types, such as this Patio Baby eggplant from Burpee, don’t need encouraging to produce a more branching structure; that is their natural growth habit.

How to Pinch Eggplant Suckers

Pinching the tip encourages lots of branching, but ultimately you don’t want too many stems all competing for water and nutrients. A good ballpark figure is to aim for four or five fruiting stems to focus on.

Once you have identified your main stems, prune eggplant suckers throughout the season to focus the energy onto your fruiting branches.

Just like when growing tomatoes, suckers grow between the main stem and the leaf axis and divert energy away from the rest of the plant. I tend to check plants weekly to spot these unwanted shoots and pinch them off when they are small.

For a healthy, productive plant, also remove any weaker or inward-growing branches and trim off the lowest sets of leaves to protect against soil-borne diseases.

Always use clean, sharp pruning shears to remove foliage. I use a pair of Felco F2 pruners, available from Amazon, to prune the eggplant, tomato, cucumber, and melon plants in my greenhouse.

FAQs

Should I Pinch off Eggplant Flowers?

It is beneficial to pinch eggplant flowers to limit the number of fruits. More than six to eight fruits on any plant risks the stems getting too stressed under the weight and snapping. Once you have enough fruits developing, pinch off the extra flowers that appear.

It is also best to pinch eggplant flowers that appear in the last four weeks of the season, as there isn’t time for the fruits to mature. This keeps the plant’s energy focused on developing the fruits that are much further ahead.

At the start of the season, pinch off the first flowers that appear. In the early stages, it is better to allow the plant time to produce stems and roots. It may seem cruel, but remove the first flowers – it won’t be long until more appear and the plant will be more prepared to carry flowers and fruit.

An ideal way to help have healthy eggplant plants and avoid pest problems is to companion plant your crop with beneficial neighbors. Some of the best picks for eggplant companion planting include legumes to add nitrogen to the soil, dill to attract predators to kill armyworms, and marigolds or onions to deter a wide variety of pests.

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Do you see friends and growers on social media with tomato plants well ahead of yours? Are you concerned yours are being left behind? If so, there is one product you can use to spark new life into your plants. Discover how using fish emulsion on tomato plants gives them a real boost during their early growth.

Fish emulsion, or fish fertilizer, is a product made from the by-products of the fishing industry. It is not glamorous, made from the likes of ground-up carcasses, bones, and scales, but it is high in nitrogen and encourages vital, strong growth when used at the right time.

If you are growing tomatoes and your plants are still small, fish emulsion can give them a much-needed dose of nutrients. However, you only want to use it on young plants and not once they start flowering. The window to use it is closing and may be shut for some gardeners, but if your tomato plants need a much-needed boost, it could be the solution you’re looking for.

This Alaska Fish Fertilizer from Amazon is certified for organic gardening and comes in concentrated form to mix with water and feed your tomato plants.

Why Use Fish Emulsion on Tomato Plants

Understanding how to fertilize tomatoes ensures you use any products at the right time, for the desired results – healthy plants and bumper crops. When it comes to using fish emulsion on tomato plants, there is a right and wrong time to use it. It boils down to what the fertilizer does for the plants.

Fish emulsion (like this liquid salmon feed, available on Amazon) is primarily rich in nitrogen (it also includes phosphorus, potassium, and many other trace elements), and it releases it quickly, encouraging the development of stems and foliage.

If your plants are a bit stunted or behind where you’d ideally like them this month, an application of fish emulsion can be a vital pick-me-up to get them back on track. It makes a perfect organic feed for the early stages of growth; you want strong stems and leaves at this time.

However, don’t use fish emulsion once the plants have started flowering. At this stage, you use a tomato feed with more phosphorus and potassium. Giving tomato plants too much nitrogen will encourage more leaves and stems, rather than flowers and fruit.

How to Use Fish Emulsion on Tomato Plants

Fish emulsion is a simple product to use, but there are a few recommendations to follow and fertilizing mistakes to avoid when using it:

• Fish emulsion must be applied to damp soil to avoid shocking the roots. Before using the product, water the tomato plants lightly to ensure the soil is moist and the plants aren’t badly affected by the feed.
• Always use the product at the recommended rate. It is a concentrated liquid fertilizer, and each product will state the dilution rates. Don’t be tempted to add a bit more, as too much will over-fertilize the plants and potentially burn their roots.
• The best results will come from a set routine. Mix the product with water and feed plants every 2-3 weeks from transplanting tomato seedlings until they start flowering.
• Apply the feed to the soil, rather than the tomato plant’s leaves. Watering the soil ensures no product is wasted and it efficiently reaches the roots.
• The product does have a strong odor, and watering the soil limits the spread and also the likelihood of attracting pests. If you worry about the smell, rest assured it disappears within a day or two of using the product.
• As mentioned above, stop using fish emulsion on tomato plants once the first flowers appear. Switch to a tomato feed, which includes organic solutions such as seaweed extract, comfrey feed, or a certified organic tomato fertilizer.

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It is not just tomatoes that can benefit from fish emulsion. Its high nitrogen levels make it a perfect solution for any seedlings and young plants – both flowers and vegetables – that need a punch of essential nutrients in the early stages. It offers a strong, natural way to add nitrogen to your soil, along with adding homemade compost, manure, or blood meal, like this organic blood meal, available at Burpee.

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I currently have a watermelon plant growing in my greenhouse. Am I crazy, trying to grow a watermelon in a container in zone 8 (the north-west of the UK)? Maybe I am, but god loves a trier. It may be difficult, but you can grow watermelon in pots, provided you make the right choices.

Those decisions include picking the right variety, container, and soil. Then there is the need to give the plants the right amount of sun, water, and nutrients. It is tricky, but not impossible if you are willing to put in the effort.

Here I take a look at some vital factors you must consider if you want to grow watermelon in a container, whether indoors or outdoors. Who knows if I will get a crop of juicy, sweet fruits from my watermelon, but I am up for the challenge.

1. Pick the Right Type

Watermelon plants can grow up to 10 feet. In reality, that is too big for containers. If you want to grow watermelon in pots, don’t complicate things. You can make life easier on yourself by growing compact and bush varieties.

These types are more manageable, and the fruit is just as tasty and juicy as that of the larger types. The vines grow shorter – often reaching 2 or 3 feet rather than 10 – and you can end up with a few good-sized watermelons per plant to pick.

The likes of ‘Sugar Baby’, ‘Bush Sugar Baby’ or ‘Golden Midget’ are perfect compact varieties of watermelon that thrive in containers.

Get ‘Sugar Baby’ watermelon seeds at True Leaf Market

Get ‘Bush Sugar Baby’ watermelon seeds at Burpee

Get ‘Golden Midget’ watermelon seeds at True Leaf Market

2. Use a Large Pot

When you decide to grow watermelon in pots, you need to pick a large container to have any chance of success. This is crucial as watermelons have extensive root systems and need room to develop. Pick a pot that is too small and the plant will get root-bound and stressed, plus you’ll end up watering more.

For the best chances of success, a dwarf or compact watermelon variety needs at least a 10-gallon pot. But to be safe, aim for 15 to 20 gallons. It should ideally be 18 to 24 inches deep and wide. This gives the roots ample space to grow and helps make maintenance easier.

The other non-negotiable is drainage holes. The pot needs to drain excess water. Otherwise, the plant will sulk and can succumb to root rot sitting in sodden soil for long periods.

Most pots should come with drainage holes, but it is best practise to check. Thankfully, it is not difficult to add drainage holes to planters to give watermelons the drainage they need.

You can use large pots (like these 15-gallon nursery pots at Amazon) or grow bags (you can also get 15-gallon grow bags at Amazon).

3. Fill the Pot With Fertile, Well-Draining Soil

Watermelons are heavy feeders, making it important to use the right soil in the containers. For a rich mix, combine a quality potting soil with compost at an 80:20 ratio.

This blend will drain well. It will also provide essential nutrients so the watermelon grows healthily in the container.

This organic potting mix at Walmart is a great option. If you don’t have any homemade compost to mix with it, you can buy bags. For example, you can get a 10lb bag of organic compost at Amazon.

4. Plant Your Watermelon

There are two options for planting the watermelon into the soil. You can sow seeds or buy transplants.

If you opt for the former, it is best to sow seeds directly into the container to reduce any potential risk of transplant shock. Sow two or three seeds an inch deep in the soil and keep it moist. Once the seedlings emerge, thin them to keep the strongest one.

You can buy transplants from a garden center, nursery, or online – which is what I did. Dig a large hole in the soil and carefully transplant the seedlings ASAP into the large pot to avoid them getting pot-bound or shocked.

Watermelon plants can be left to trail across the ground, or be trained up a strong trellis. Growing watermelons vertically is perfect for smaller spaces, and it is recommended to have the supports in place when you plant them.

5. Give Them Sun

To grow watermelon in pots successfully, you need to put them somewhere where they can bask in lots of sunlight over the summer.

Watermelon plants need heat and sunshine to grow and develop the sweet fruits. Place the container somewhere that gets 8 to 10 hours of sunlight each day and temperatures over 70°F.

Gardeners in cooler climates may need to grow watermelon in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame to guarantee the temperatures required for optimum growth.

This four-foot-tall portable greenhouse at Wayfair could house a compact watermelon plant (it has removable shelves) and provide a warm, protected place to grow.

6. Water Regularly and Consistently

The name gives it away – watermelons need a lot of watering throughout the season. This is especially true when you grow watermelons in pots, as the soil can dry out really quickly. And you never want to let the soil dry out completely.

The key is to keep the soil consistently moist, which can mean watering once or twice a day during the season. Check the moisture a few inches under the soil surface every day – and water if it feels dry. When you do water plants, water deeply, until it starts to flow out of the drainage holes.

As the season progresses, reduce the watering when the fruits are nearly ripe.

If you aren’t confident and worry about overwatering plants, a soil moisture meter is an essential tool. You can place it into the soil to get instant information about when to water plants in hot weather.

Get a soil moisture meter at Amazon.

7. Fertilize Every 2 Weeks

Watermelons are hungry plants and need lots of nutrients throughout the season to develop their vines and ripen fruit. If you grow watermelon in pots, committing to a regular fertilizing schedule is crucial to have any chance of a good harvest.

If you added compost at planting, there will be nutrients to get plants off to a good start. In the absence of compost, add some balanced, slow-release fertilizer at planting, such as this all-purpose plant food at Burpee.

Once the plant starts flowering, start feeding it with a product higher in phosphorus and potassium, which encourages the development of fruits and flowers. An ideal fertilizer is a tomato feed, such as this tomato booster at Amazon.

Alternatively, you can use seaweed fertilizer or make your own comfrey fertilizer. Apply this fertilizer every two weeks during the summer.

8. Harvest the Watermelons

Watermelons take 70-90 days from planting to harvesting. You may need to hand-pollinate plants if they are growing indoors to guarantee fruit.

The signs to look for to know a watermelon is ready to be picked are that the curly tendril near the fruit turns brown, the rind is hard and matte rather than shiny, and the watermelon gives a deep, hollow sound when tapped.

If a fruit ticks all these boxes, cut the melon from the vine with a sharp knife, like this Fiskars harvesting knife on Amazon.

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Other sprawling vegetables you can grow in pots include pumpkins and squash. As with watermelons, growing squash in containers means using compact varieties, a large pot, and remembering to water and feed regularly.

The good news is that it is not as tricky as watermelons, and you can get good harvests of squash in smaller, urban gardens or on a deck or patio.

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If your tomato plants are like mine at the moment, they’ll be growing strongly, producing flowers, and maybe even showing the first fruits. It is a crucial time in the season, and there are certain things you need to do with tomato plants in July to keep them healthy; the most important is watering.

As the focus shifts from producing foliage to developing and ripening fruit, it is pivotal to keep the plants well-watered, especially when the temperatures soar. If they dry out, they will drop flowers, and inconsistent watering can lead to split fruits and blossom-end rot. Tomato plants also need to be fed and pruned this month to ensure no energy is wasted and to help your plants avoid succumbing to disease.

When growing tomatoes, July is an exciting month as you see the first glimpses of those tantalizing harvests to come. A few crucial maintenance tasks this month ensure your plants remain in perfect health and you can enjoy rich pickings in the weeks to come. With watering a key concern, expandable hose like the Flexzilla one on Amazon is perfect for the job and stores super easily.

Stay on Top of Watering

Tomatoes are thirsty plants. They usually need one or two inches of water a week, but this requirement increases during a heatwave, especially when the plants are flowering and fruiting. If yours, like mine, are now just starting to bloom and showing the first fruits, it is a crucial time to keep up regular watering.

Use your fingers or a soil moisture meter (available at Amazon) to measure the water levels an inch or two under the surface of the soil. If it is dry, then water plants deeply. This may need to be done daily, or more often if the tomatoes are in containers.

Another useful tip is to always water the soil, and not the foliage. Soaking the leaves puts the plant at risk of common fungal tomato diseases, such as powdery mildew.

It is hard to be exact about how much water tomato plants need; it can vary depending on your climate, where the plants are growing, and whether they are in the ground or in containers – tomatoes in pots are going to dry out much faster than those in the ground.

Staying on top of watering is important. If the soil dries out completely, plants can drop their flowers. And consistency is key, as inconsistent watering causes tomatoes to split or the fruits to suffer from blossom-end rot.

Feed Plants Regularly

The best plants and harvests always come from fertilizing tomatoes at least weekly during the summer with a fertilizer that is rich in phosphorus and potassium.

All advice for growing tomatoes will tell you to feed plants regularly with tomato feed once they start flowering, which mine are now doing, as will many gardeners’ at this point in the season.

I am using a seaweed-based fertilizer this year, but you can use any liquid tomato feed for the task. This tomato booster at Walmart, for example, is a great liquid feed and has an NPK of 3:8:7.

It is up to you how often you wish to feed them, but my preference is every week or two, depending on where the plants are growing.

If you grow tomatoes in pots or grow bags, like I am in my greenhouse at home and did for many years as a professional gardener, I always think it is important to have a regular weekly feeding regime. I have steadfastly stuck by this routine for years and got big harvests from plants in greenhouses when I was growing for restaurants – and I still do it at home.

You can opt to feed tomatoes growing in the ground weekly, or stretch it to every two weeks as the soil doesn’t leach nutrients as quickly as potting soil in containers.

Prune to Focus the Plants Energy

Tomatoes grow vigorously when they get the sun and warmth they desire. Sometimes it can be too vigorous, and they need controlling.

Check your plants at least weekly in July to prune tomato plants and remove suckers. These shoots form between the main stem and the leaves on vining or indeterminate tomato varieties, and they do grow quickly. But they take energy away from the rest of the plant.

Snip away these side shoots before they get too large, so the plant’s energy is focused on forming flowers and developing fruits rather than unnecessary extra shoots.

Side shoots can be nipped off with your fingers if they are small. Otherwise, you want to use pruning snips or pruning shears to remove shoots and leaves. I use a pair of these Felco pruning snips, available at Amazon, and they are ideal for precise pruning tasks like these.

Too many stems also impair airflow and increase the risk of disease, as fungal diseases can take hold if plants are congested.

Talking of disease, you should also prune away the lowest leaves this month, as well as any yellow tomato leaves. Removing the bottom foliage stops soil-borne fungal and bacterial spores from splashing up onto the plant, and helps with airflow, too.

Provide Support and Shade

When a heatwave strikes, it may be important to shade plants, especially if they are growing in a greenhouse. Tomatoes love heat, but not too much. They get stressed when the temperatures exceed 90°F, and this can cause them to drop flowers.

If it looks like your temperatures may be hitting those dangerous levels, cover plants with shade cloth. A 30-50% shade cloth (such as this shade cloth at Amazon) can provide sufficient protection from the excessive heat and sun scorch.

Tomato plants will be growing quickly at this stage of the season. You should already have supports in place for them, as ideally you put them in place when you transplant tomato seedlings.

However, if yours are not yet supported, remember to do this quickly. The plants get tall and top-heavy, and not supporting them leads to flopping stems and, in a worst-case scenario, snapping.

Use a stake or bamboo pole and tie the plants in with soft ties to prevent damaging the stems. Or you can use tomato cages to surround the plants and keep them upright.

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FAQs

Can You Plant Tomatoes in July?

July is late to plant tomatoes, but you can still plant fast-growing determinate or bush varieties of tomatoes and get a crop before the end of the season. You can get a four-pack of live patio tomato plants at Amazon that are determinate varieties and fruit quickly.

Any list of what to do with tomato plants in July may include picking for those gardeners who started their plants off early in the year. The harvesting season starts in July, so keep a close eye on when to harvest tomatoes so you get those first fruits at the right time. Once the color deepens and the fruits have a little give when squeezed, they are ready to pick.

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Rhubarb season is relatively short, at around 8-10 weeks, and the window for picking is winding down. You need to know when to stop picking rhubarb each year to have strong crops next year. And that cutoff should be to stop in early July.

You can theoretically harvest rhubarb throughout the growing season. This is not advisable, though, as the plants need some time to recover from harvesting and replenish their energy reserves for the following year.

When you grow rhubarb, the end of June or early July is usually the end of the picking season. There may be time for one more harvest if you act quickly, but don’t push your luck and keep picking well into summer.

I used to work in the walled garden at a large, historic public garden. We harvested some rhubarb for the on-site café, but the vast majority of the stalks were sold to the public on a donation stall in the garden. There was a lot of rhubarb in this vegetable garden, and the stalks sold like hot cakes.

Year after year, I had to tell our enthusiastic volunteers when to stop harvesting rhubarb. It made sense to keep picking as long as stalks were available. But the risk of continuing harvesting for too long outweighed the benefits of making some extra cash.

In truth, my head gardener always wanted the picking to stop at the end of June, but we may have pushed it an extra week or 10 days into July.

When to Stop Picking Rhubarb

Knowing how to harvest rhubarb means you have the technique to pick flavorful stems without damaging your plants, but carrying on picking too long will affect the long-term health of your clumps.

While you do need to wait a few years after planting rhubarb to get a crop (you can get a live Rhubarb 'Victoria' plant at Plant Addicts), the temptation may be to pick as many stems for as long as possible in future years. That is a rhubarb growing mistake to avoid, or your plants won’t have the lifespan they may otherwise.

If cared for correctly, rhubarb plants can be productive for decades. And a key part of proper maintenance is understanding when to stop picking rhubarb.

The last harvests should be in early July. The window should last 8-10 weeks in late spring and early summer, when you can pick lots of stalks. However, stopping picking in early July gives plants lots of time to replenish their energy for the future.

Your rhubarb can spend the rest of summer photosynthesizing and building up energy supplies in its roots. This guarantees the plant has the reserves needed to burst into growth again next spring.

If you continued harvesting into summer, the stalks would get thinner as the plant lacked the energy to produce thick, flavorful stems. And you certainly wouldn’t get a good crop of stems to pick next year.

The sight of thin, spindly stalks on your plants is definitely a sign you need to stop picking if you haven’t already. A weakened rhubarb plant won’t have the energy to keep providing you with stems for years to come.

Rhubarb needs lots of nutrients to produce the large stalks and leaves. To ensure your plants have the essential nutrients they need, stop picking in early summer to store energy and fertilize with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like this tomato and vegetable fertilizer at Burpee) in fall and a nitrogen-rich fertilizer in spring.

For the best long-term harvests, it is also important to divide rhubarb plants every five years. The clumps get congested over the years, and produce weaker, thinner stems as a result. Lifting and dividing them reinvigorates the clumps and gives you new ones to add to the garden.

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There are so many different ways to grow tomatoes. But, the latest idea I've found is ingenious if your tomatoes are looking tall, thin and floppy: you can grow tomatoes sideways to make them stronger.

It may sound a little strange at first because this method of growing tomatoes requires burying the tomato stem in a trench. Roots then grow from the buried leaf nodes, resulting in a stronger root system. It's the perfect solution to saving leggy or weak tomatoes, so you can still have a good harvest.

But, this method will only work if you use it in the right circumstances and manage it correctly. Here, we talk through how this tomato growing hack works.

Why Grow Tomatoes Sideways?

It's not uncommon for tomato plants to grow a little bit leggy and weak, either due to tomato growing mistakes or unpredictable weather. But, you can still save your harvest by using the method to grow tomatoes sideways.

'Planting tomatoes in a trench is an ideal solution if your plants have gotten a bit leggy, which happens regularly due to high temperatures or a lack of sunlight,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'Planting them sideways into a trench takes advantage of a clever trait tomatoes have: growing extra roots along the stem. A stronger overall root system means the plant can take in more water and nutrients, and you’ll get a sturdier and more drought-tolerant plant,' he explains.

But, it isn't as simple as burying your tomato plant. There is some careful preparation and management required to ensure you still harvest tomatoes this summer.

How to Grow Tomatoes Sideways

To grow tomatoes sideways you first need to clean the stem by removing all the leaves, except those at the very top.

You should use clean and sharp pruning tools when doing this to ensure the plant stays healthy. These Fiskars pruning snips from Amazon are a reliable choice.

To actually plant the stem sideways, create a trench in your planting bed. You want it to be just 4-6" deep in nutrient-rich compost, accommodating the length of the stem.

Then, lay the stem down sideways and bury it, gently bending the top of the stem upwards so the leaves stick out above surface level. Make sure the existing root ball is covered.

'Don’t worry about the stem curving or bending; the plant will quickly find its way and start growing upwards towards the sun after planting,' says Drew.

Putting a support in place to help train the exposed part of the stem will encourage it to climb upwards. These bamboo stakes from Amazon work well, or you can use the tomato string method.

Water well to help it settle. In as little as 1-2 weeks, the buried leaf nodes will develop new roots.

'Sideways planting buries a large portion of the stem, and the tomato plant will respond to that by growing lots of roots along the buried section,' Drew explains.

As the bigger root system develops, your tomato plant will become more drought-tolerant, cope better with hot summer days, and will be less likely to become leggy.

Don't forget to continue pruning tomato plants when growing them like this. Removing side shoots (or 'suckers' which appear between the main stem and branches) helps redirect the plant's energy to fruiting, resulting in a bigger harvest.

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This is just one way to increase tomato yields if your tomato plant is struggling. Fertilizing your tomatoes with a high-potash feed (like this tomato fertilizer from Amazon) also supports flowering and fruit production.

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July is a significant month for growing okra. The heat-loving crop, also known as ladies’ fingers, is highly productive in summer, and a few crucial tasks this month will bring you a bumper harvest of pods to pick.

Regular harvesting is the most important job for July if you are growing okra in your vegetable garden. Along with picking, take time to water, feed, support, and keep plants pest-free to ensure the harvests keep coming. If you garden in the hottest climates, though, there is an extra task you can do that will reward you with extra crops.

Okra does need regular attention this month, and keeping on top of these tasks is important for the best yield throughout the summer and onwards. Here’s what to do with okra in July to pick the finest pods and to have healthy plants that will keep on producing new ones to pick in the future.

1. Harvest Pods Every Few Days

July is a peak time for harvesting okra pods, and you want to get them at their prime. Good timing is imperative, as young pods are tender and a delicacy, while older ones are tough and woody.

Regular harvesting is an important part of what to do with okra in July. It is advisable to pick them little and often every few days rather than opting for more infrequent, larger harvests.

The perfect pods are 2-3 inches long. Picking them often encourages the plant to keep producing new ones, whereas leaving mature pods slows down the development.

Use small pruners (like these Fiskars pruning snips at Walmart) or a sharp knife to harvest okra pods. Don’t pull the pods, as okra plants have very shallow roots, and you risk damaging the entire plant.

It is also advisable to wear gloves and long sleeves (you can get gardening sleeves at Amazon to stay protected) when working with okra plants. The stems, leaves, and pods have fine hairs that can irritate the skin.

2. Keep the Soil Moist

Okra is a fairly drought-tolerant vegetable once established in its planting spot, but this doesn’t mean it doesn’t need to be kept hydrated during July.

When okra is flowering and fruiting, it is a key time to keep the soil consistently moist to guarantee the best harvests. For the best yield, give okra at least one inch of water per week, though this amount can increase in hotter climates.

Keep a close eye on when to water plants, checking at least once a day during the summer months. Check the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, and water plants deeply to soak the root zone.

Always water the soil around the plants, rather than soaking them from above. Watering the foliage increases the risk of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew. A soaker hose (such as this 25 ft flat soaker hose, available at Amazon) or drip irrigation is an efficient way to direct water into the soil and to the roots of the plants.

3. Feed Okra Plants in Pots

Okra plants benefit from balanced fertilizer at the time of planting. Those growing in the ground don’t tend to need extra feeding during the season, unless they show signs of struggling, such as slow growth or yellowing foliage. In this case, use a balanced liquid fertilizer, like this all-purpose plant food from Amazon.

If you are growing okra in pots in a vegetable container garden, these plants will need regular feeding throughout July and the rest of summer. The best fertilizers for these plants are higher in potassium, such as this Farmer’s Secret fruit and bloom booster fertilizer, also at Amazon. Apply this fertilizer every two or three weeks once the okra starts flowering.

The big fertilizing mistake to avoid is giving okra plants too much nitrogen this month. Using high-nitrogen feeds will result in a mass of foliage and leafy growth, but few flowers or pods.

4. Support Plants if Needed

Okra can reach four to six feet tall, depending on the variety, so they ideally need to be staked, especially in windy gardens. The plants are often self-supporting, thanks to their woody stems, but taller varieties do need staking to keep them secure during the season, especially when they are top-heavy.

The easiest type of plant support for okra is a sturdy bamboo cane (like these eight-foot bamboo plant stakes at Home Depot) or landscape stake.

A single support is required per plant, as they are not the types of plants that will climb a vegetable garden trellis. Alternatively, you can construct a tall tomato cage around plants to contain and stop them from falling over when laden with pods.

Use thin plant ties when attaching the okra stem to the support, such as twine, cloth, or Velcro straps, and don’t tie it too tightly.

5. Check for Pests

July is a time when okra can be under attack from many different summer garden pests, whether the crop is growing indoors or outdoors. Aphids, spider mites, flea beetles, stink bugs, and caterpillars are all known to trouble okra and can feed on leaves, stems, and pods.

Look out for signs of pest issues and take prompt action to stop populations from increasing quickly. It is recommended to pay particular close attention to the underside of foliage.

Smaller pests can be knocked off the plant with a strong blast of water from a garden hose, and insecticidal soap can combat populations (you can get ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart, but use it with care as it can also kill beneficial insects). Larger pests can be manually picked off by hand and placed into a container filled with soapy water.

To reduce pest populations, try companion planting okra with aromatic herbs like chives, dill, and chamomile to repel insects or beneficial flowers such as marigolds or nasturtiums, which both deter pests from okra and attract natural predators.

6. Cut Okra Plants Back

In the hottest US hardiness zones, okra plants tend to slow down and stop producing flowers and pods. This can happen in late July or early August in the warmest southern climates, and growers often prune plants as a result.

It may sound brutal, but cutting okra plants back to around one or two feet from the ground in midsummer encourages the plants to produce a smaller, second crop of pods. If you do this technique, fertilize the plants with a balanced feed after pruning, and keep on top of watering to encourage healthy new growth.

A granular, balanced feed, such as this organic, all-purpose plant food from Burpee, is the best product. It offers plants all the essential nutrients they need to regrow and provide a second round of pods from late summer into fall.

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If you enjoy collecting seeds to regrow your own vegetables next year, you can do this with okra. However, wait until later in the season to start. To harvest okra seeds, leave some pods to develop later in the fall. If you leave them in the summer, the plant will stop producing new ones to harvest.

So wait until the picking is winding down for the season; only then leave some pods to grow large, brown, and brittle. You can snip these from the plants and collect the seeds to sow again.

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Plucking homegrown fruit from your backyard is one of the summer joys many of us gardeners look forward to. By the time July comes around, our peach trees are producing delicious, juicy fruits, so they require a bit of attention.

If you're growing a peach tree in your garden, then you'll need to do some light pruning, keep on top of watering during hot spells, and check the fruit to see if it's ready to harvest this month, as well as remove any diseased fruit.

Neglecting these tasks now could hinder your harvest and the overall health of your tree. So, grab your harvest basket (I love the look of this wooden garden hod from Burpee) and head out to the yard. Here's what to do with a peach tree in July.

1. Prune Lightly

Knowing when to prune a peach tree is very important. Do it at the wrong time and you could remove flower buds, meaning no fruit.

Likewise, heavy pruning in summer can stress your tree and lead to its decline. That's why arborist Levi Williams advises only doing some light maintenance in July.

'As a rule of thumb, diseased or dead branches can be removed at any time and that includes July. Do not heavily prune trees during the summer months,' he says.

You should focus on removing the damaged branches and also thinning out any overcrowded, crossing branches. This will improve airflow and reduce the likelihood of disease, including peach leaf curl which distorts the leaves from excess moisture and causes them to drop off.

These Fiskars bypass loppers from Amazon can help you reach higher up your peach tree, and they'll make clean cuts.

2. Water Deeply

Watering is key when it comes to growing any fruit tree, but it's even more important to keep on top of during the hot summer months.

Letting a peach tree dry out in July can result in heat stress, stunting growth, dropping fruit and flowers, and even death in prolonged drought.

'Make sure to water trees heavily 1-2 inches of water per week,' Levi advises.

At the same time, you want to avoid excessive moisture when your peach tree is fruiting. This can cause the fruit to split and rot before you get the chance to harvest.

If in doubt, you can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check how wet your peach tree's soil is.

And if you're growing a peach tree in a pot (like this 'Elberta' peach tree from Plant Addicts), remember it will dry out much more quickly than those planted in the ground.

3. Check the Fruit

July to September is the typical harvest time for peaches, which means it's time to check your fruit for ripeness.

Peaches are ready to pick when there is no trace of green on the fruit and it has a creamy yellow or white hue, starting to blush. You can leave peaches attached until they fully blush for the sweetest taste, but because they're climacteric, they will carry on ripening off the branch.

They should also give a little when gently squeezed. Hard fruit is not yet ready to pick. Likewise, the peaches should come away from the stems with a gentle twist, and have a sweet aroma.

'Don't forget to also remove any fallen or rotten fruit to avoid pests,' Levi advises.

'And if a branch is full of fruit and causing them to bend, it is recommended to provide support for branches with props,' he adds.

You can use these fruit tree crutches from Amazon or create your own natural plant support by repurposing tree branches.

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FAQs

Do You Fertilize Peach Trees While They're Fruiting?

No, there isn't a need to fertilize peach trees while they're fruiting, unless it is nutrient deficient (which can be spotted by pale leaves and poor shoot growth). Instead, you should fertilize your peach tree in early spring to give it a boost of nutrients ahead of fruit production.

If you're struggling to get your peach tree to fruit, there are a few things you can do. This includes providing full sun exposure by pruning branches.

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As the temperatures soar in the summer, cool-season crops are always likely to bolt. It is a frustrating yet natural process, and one that gardeners consistently battle with year after year.

Vegetables, including lettuce, spinach, arugula, radishes, and Asian greens, bolt and start to flower when temperatures pass 70°F. However, there are ways to prevent bolting vegetables, such as proper watering, mulching, providing shade to your crops, and planting them at the right time.

I have seen many crops bolt over my years growing vegetables. While I have lost many potential harvests, I have also picked up a few tips to reduce the chances of bolting vegetables blotting your kitchen garden. Whatever the size of your vegetable garden, these five factors can make a difference each season.

1. Be Consistent With Watering

Regular, consistent watering can reduce stress on your crops and lessen the chances of you looking at rows and rows of bolting vegetables you need to remove from the garden.

True, temperatures will affect when a vegetable bolts. But the likelihood of it happening increases when a crop is under stress from a lack of moisture. Vegetables suffering from drought stress will also start to bolt at lower temperatures.

To avoid this happening, check your plants often (a moisture meter can make it obvious when it is time to water – you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) and keep them well hydrated. Infrequent deep watering is more beneficial than little-and-often watering, and offers the best way to keep soil moist in the summer.

So your watering makes the most impact; water the vegetable garden in the morning on hot days. This helps prevent the soil from drying out and gives crops time to take up moisture before the temperatures rise.

2. Mulch to Regulate Temperature and Moisture

Heat and moisture are two factors that cause bolting of vegetables. An efficient way to combat both is by mulching the vegetable garden.

Mulching around crops regulates soil temperature. The thick barrier keeps the rays at bay, so the soil around the roots stays cool rather than getting baking hot. The layer also locks moisture in the ground, meaning less water is lost to evaporation, and your plants can take advantage.

Use organic products for this. The best organic mulch for a vegetable garden includes compost, straw, bark (you can get bags of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s), or shredded leaves. Spread it in a nice, thick 2-3 inch layer around your vegetables.

3. Give Crops Some Shade

High temperatures usually kick-start cool-season vegetables into survival mode, where they bolt in an attempt to flower and produce seed before their time is nigh. Giving crops some shade from the sun reduces the temperature by several degrees and can be the difference between bolting and non-bolting vegetables.

Gardeners can use shade cloth to cover plants. It is ideal to opt for a shade cloth that keeps out 50% of the light, such as this breathable shade cloth at Amazon.

You need to install the cloth over some hoops (like these fiberglass hoops at Walmart) to keep it raised off the crops. As the cloth heats up, if it is touching the vegetables, it can burn them.

An alternative way of providing more natural shade is through companion planting. You can plant cool-season, heat-sensitive crops under the partial shade of taller vegetables, including pole beans, tomatoes, or corn.

4. Pick Bolt-Resistant Varieties

One efficient way to avoid the issue of bolting vegetables is to be savvy when shopping for seeds. There are bolt-resistant varieties of many vegetables to plant, including spinach, lettuces, and Asian greens.

In truth, bolt-resistant varieties aren’t a guarantee. They have been bred using modern techniques to be more resilient to temperatures or inconsistent watering, but they can still bolt under extreme conditions.

Adding some bolt-resistant or heat-tolerant varieties of cool-season crops to your seed sowing schedule can help alleviate potential worries about vegetables bolting.

For example, you can get bolt-resistant Seaside spinach seeds at Burpee and bolt-resistant Jericho lettuce seeds at True Leaf Market to try out if you regularly suffer from these crops bolting each season.

5. Time Your Planting Right

Often, gardeners see their crops bolt because they have been planted a bit outside of the ideal.

We have all sown cool-season crops a bit too late in spring, which leads them to bolt once the summer temperatures arrive. Even fast-growing vegetables can lack the time to go from sowing to cropping if sown in late spring or early summer.

Ensure you give them enough time to mature. Work out the days to maturity – which you can often find on seed packets or online – and sow them at the appropriate time. If you miss the spring sowing, you can often sow again in late summer for harvests in the fall.

To avoid complete losses, radishes, lettuce, spinach, and arugula can be planted successively.

Starting early in spring (once the ground is warm enough, or even sowing seeds indoors) and sowing these every few weeks will give you different ages of crop in the kitchen garden. If they do bolt in the summer, you should have already had some harvests, and you don’t lose an entire crop.

Sometimes, bolting happens, and you have to deal with it. However, it doesn’t always mean you need to throw the crop away.

With some crops, like lettuce and spinach, the larger leaves can turn bitter, yet the smaller ones remain flavorful – it is not a total loss.

When it comes to bolting onions, though, you can lift the bulb and use it straight away in the kitchen. The bulbs may be smaller than ideal, but you can still harvest the onions and eat them.

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Growing your own fruit has to be one of the most rewarding things to do as a gardener. One way to get more out of your crops is by propagating them, i.e. multiplying them and growing double as much fruit.

If you grow blueberries, you can propagate them through cuttings. It might seem daunting compared to propagating ornamentals, but the truth is blueberry plants are straightforward to multiply, especially through softwood summer cuttings. It is also possible to propagate via hardwood cuttings in fall, though this takes much longer.

There are only a handful of steps to successfully propagate blueberries from cuttings, and you don't need loads of tools either (though, picking up this rooting hormone powder from Amazon will boost your chances of success). Here, with insights from a professional gardener, I talk through each step so you can harvest even more juicy berries from your backyard.

1. Take Healthy Cuttings

'Blueberries can be propagated from hardwood (old growth) or softwood (new growth),' says market gardener, Cody Deluisio.

'Softwood cuttings can be taken from early spring into mid-summer. Hardwood cuttings are taken after the leaves have fallen off in the fall,' he explains.

Softwood cuttings tend to provide faster results, as they take root much more easily. But, hardwood cuttings are thought to be more low-maintenance to manage, so there are benefits to both.

Whichever you choose, the first step is to identify and take healthy cuttings.

'Start by cleaning sharp gardening snips with rubbing alcohol. You want them to be very clean,' Cody says.

This will prevent the spread of pests and diseases, and ensure plant health is maintained. These Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon will easily cut through both old and new growth.

For softwood, look for new growth that is flexible and green, and has several sets of leaves. 'Cut 4-6 inches of healthy stem right where it goes to hardwood at a 45° angle,' Cody describes. Take care to cut just below a leaf node, as this is where roots will emerge.

To take hardwood cuttings later in the year, rather focus on last year's growth. This will be the woodier stems, around a pencil's thickness, and 6-10 inches in length. You should cut half-an-inch above a bud, also at a 45° angle.

2. Prepare the Stems

The next step to propagate blueberries from cuttings is cleaning the stems, i.e. removing unnecessary foliage.

'Strip all leaves of but the top two,' Cody advises.

Leaving lower leaves can risk rotting when the cutting is in soil, and also drain's the plant's energy. You can use your fingers to pinch them off or these gardening micro snips from Lowe's to cut them off cleanly, redirecting the cutting's energy into rooting.

For hardwood cuttings, there won't be foliage to remove as the plant is dormant.

For both types of cutting, it's recommended to dip the end in rooting hormone. This is a powder (it also comes in gel form, like this rooting hormone gel from Amazon) that contains plant auxins responsible for rooting.

'Rooting hormone is optional but greatly improves success,' Cody notes.

3. Plant the Stems

With your cuttings prepped, the next step is to plant them in a well-draining, acidic soil to help them root.

'Put the cutting into an acidic mix, either a store-bought acidic potting mix (like this from Walmart) or 50/50 peat moss and perlite (which you can purchase from Amazon),' says Cody. 'Place the end of the cutting approximately two inches deep and firm the soil around it,' he describes.

Blueberries are acidic-loving plants, so if needed you can make your soil more acidic for both your existing shrubs and new plants.

'Soak the soil and let it drain for 15-30 minutes,' Cody says.

4. Find a Home For Your Cuttings

Where you keep your blueberry cuttings depends on whether they're hardwood or softwood.

'For softwood cuttings, place the container in a greenhouse or a bag to keep humidity up. Make sure it gets indirect sunlight,' Cody describes.

You should maintain consistent moisture and a temperature between 68-77°F. These humidity domes from Amazon can be useful to use if you aren't able to provide a greenhouse. Take care to place the cuttings somewhere with bright light.

Hardwood cuttings don't need so much humidity because they are dormant and leafless. Instead, keep them somewhere bright and cool, and maintain consistent moisture without becoming soggy in winter conditions.

A cold frame (you can find affordable portable cold frames at Walmart), unheated greenhouse, or a sheltered wall are the best options for hardwood cuttings.

5. Regularly Check Your Cuttings

One of the biggest propagation mistakes for any plant is neglecting your cuttings and expecting them to still take root. Instead, you should be regularly checking on cuttings.

Softwood blueberry cuttings usually root within six to 10 weeks, while hardwood cuttings take several months.

You should maintain high humidity and moisture for softwood cuttings, while watching out for overly wet soil and temperature fluctuations for hardwood cuttings.

This soil moisture meter from Amazon can help you get watering right by identifying the moisture level in soil for you.

Give your cutting a gentle pull to check whether it has rooted before planting up.

'Take care not to tug for at least six weeks, the roots will be very weak and can be easily broken,' Cody warns.

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If you're struggling to get a harvest out of your blueberries, read up on our guide to getting a blueberry bush to fruit. One of the most important aspects to get blueberry bush pruning right, to keep your plant healthy and strong.

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My tomato plants have been off to a slow start this year, so I've been looking for organic solutions to encourage faster growth. That's when I stumbled across a hack: making nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes.

It's an old-school gardening trick to fertilize tomatoes with nettle-infused water, which is packed with nutrients, including nitrogen for vegetative growth. Giving your tomatoes nettle tea fertilizer from spring to early summer encourages strong leaves and stems, setting the plant up for healthy flowering and fruit production later on.

It's really best used before flowers appear, at which point you can switch to a specific tomato fertilizer to support fruiting (like this tomato fertilizer on Amazon). The best part is it's really easy to make your own tomato fertilizer with nettle tea, though it does need to be used correctly to be effective. Here's how it works.

Why Use Nettle Tea for Tomatoes?

It's surprisingly effective to make plant fertilizer using weeds, as they're packed with essential plant nutrients. Nettles in particular are a popular choice for giving plants like tomatoes a boost of nitrogen.

What nitrogen does for plants is aid vegetative, leafy growth. For tomatoes, this means encouraging strong stems and foliage ahead of flowering.

'When tomatoes start to flower, you want the focus to be on fruit production rather than vegetative growth,' explains Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'At this point, the best tomato fertilizer is high in potassium, like this tomato feed on Amazon.

'So, you should only use nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes during early growth, up until flowers appear; otherwise, it could encourage excessive foliage and reduce your yield,' he adds.

Of course, the benefits of nettle tea fertilizer also extend to the fact it's free to make and eco-friendly, with no chemicals required.

But you do have to make it carefully and use it correctly to get the desired results – here's what you need to know.

How to Make Nettle Tea Fertilizer

There are just a handful of steps to make nettle tea fertilizer for tomatoes:

1. Put on thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these floral ones from Walmart) to protect your skin. You can then collect fresh nettles from your garden, picking tender tops. You can use pruning shears as an extra precaution to prevent stinging (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon). You should collect enough to fill a bucket halfway (this can be any size bucket, but a 5-gallon bucket is a good choice – like this one from Lowe's).
2. Rinse the nettles to clean off dirt and insects, and then begin chopping them. You can use a kitchen knife or pruning shears to cut them up into smaller pieces. This helps release the nutrients for the fertilizer.
3. Then, fill your bucket. The leaves should come up halfway and you can fill the rest of it with water, making sure the leaves are submerged.
4. You should then leave it to steep for 2-3 weeks, stirring occasionally. It's best to put a breathable cover on the bucket to stop debris and insects getting in, and to contain the strong smell from fermentation. This mesh garden cover from Amazon works well.
5. The tea is ready to use when it is dark and doesn't bubble after being stirred. You should dilute it one cup nettle tea to 10 parts water before applying to your tomato plants every couple of weeks until they flower. Any stronger or more frequent risks root burn from an overload of nutrients.

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This is just one way to increase your tomato yields. You can also use tomato tapping to ensure every flower is pollinated and turns into fruit, and prune tomato plants to remove side shoots draining energy.

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There's something undeniably Nancy Meyers about a wooden white raised garden bed. It instantly conjures images of a dreamy kitchen garden brimming with fragrant herbs, climbing flowers, and baskets of sun-ripened tomatoes just steps from the back door.

If you're searching for raised bed garden ideas that feel both practical and beautiful, Costco's latest gardening find is worth a look. The retailer is now selling the Vita Garden Bed with Fencing, a charming white raised planter framed by foldable fence panels that help keep curious critters at bay while maintaining an effortlessly elegant, cottage-inspired look. I don't own this one myself, but after spotting it, I definitely want it.

For a similar alternative, I have the Elevated Raised Garden Bed with Wheels from Amazon, and I absolutely love it. I bought it to help recreate that classic Nancy Meyers aesthetic in my own garden, and its clean white finish gives it the same charming, kitchen garden feel.

It Looks More Like Garden Furniture Than a Vegetable Bed

The enclosed design makes this planter especially practical for smaller yards, patios, and suburban gardens where rabbits, squirrels, and even neighborhood pets can make quick work of tender seedlings. The fence panels feature slide latches and fold down for easy access from every side, so you don't have to sacrifice convenience for protection.

What I particularly like about raised beds is how well they work for small spaces and amateur gardeners. They instantly create a dedicated growing area, making the whole process feel more approachable and less overwhelming. Instead of trying to amend poor soil or carve out a large section of lawn, you can fill a raised bed with nutrient-rich compost and start planting.

Many of the plants that grow better in raised beds are also some of the most popular choices for home gardeners. You can grow kitchen staples like lettuce, kale, spinach, tomatoes, peppers, and strawberries, all of which grow in a raised bed with ease thanks to the improved drainage and fertile soil. You can also create a cutting garden filled with zinnias, cosmos, and dahlias. Herbs such as basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme also thrive in raised beds, keeping fresh ingredients within easy reach of the kitchen.

The white fencing gives this planter an elevated feel, too. Many raised beds are purely functional, but this one has a timeless cottage garden look that wouldn't feel out of place in a traditional English garden or the sun-soaked backyard of a Nancy Meyers movie.

A Practical Design That Makes Gardening Easier

Raised beds aren't just attractive; they come with plenty of practical benefits. Because the soil warms up faster in spring and drains more effectively, many plants establish themselves more quickly and are less likely to suffer from waterlogged roots. The contained growing area also makes it easier to control weeds and monitor soil quality, which can take some of the guesswork out of container gardening for beginners.

The bed itself sits at a comfortable working height, meaning less bending and kneeling while planting, watering, and harvesting. It's made from food-grade, BPA- and phthalate-free vinyl, making it suitable for growing everything from leafy greens and herbs to flowers and deep-rooted vegetables.

One of the most thoughtful features is the inclusion of two central compost baskets. Gardeners can add kitchen scraps directly into the bed, where they gradually decompose and enrich the soil. It's a simple but clever addition that combines raised-bed gardening with composting, helping to reduce household waste while naturally feeding your plants.

If you've been looking for a way to start growing vegetables in a compact outdoor space without compromising on aesthetics, Costco's Vita Garden Bed with Fencing may be one of the prettiest raised beds to land this season. It delivers all the romance of a kitchen garden, with the added reassurance that your herbs, lettuce, and strawberries stand a much better chance against hungry garden visitors.

Shop Alternative Raised Bed Planters

Costco's raised garden planter is one of those seasonal finds that rarely stay in stock for long. When it does return, it tends to sell out quickly, particularly at this time of year when gardeners are looking to maximize their growing space. If you're not already a member, a digital Costco membership gives you access to its ever-changing lineup of sought-after garden buys.

That said, you don't need a Costco membership to create the same elevated look. Amazon has plenty of raised garden beds that combine practicality with style, from compact options for patios and small yards to larger statement planters that can anchor an entire kitchen garden.

I’ve hand-picked a few well-chosen alternatives below that work particularly well in stylish, easy-to-maintain outdoor spaces.

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Just because you have a small garden, doesn't mean you can't grow your own fruit. I've been longing to add fruit trees to my garden, but simply don't have the space for the likes of a towering apple tree. That's why I've been looking at alternatives and finally landed on the perfect pick: blueberry bushes.

Of course blueberries don't directly replace apples as a crop, but to fulfil my kitchen garden fantasy, they're much easier to work with in a small garden. They take up less space, can be easily grown in pots (especially the native variety 'Lowbush' blueberry from Plant Addicts), and they don't rely on multiple shrubs for cross-pollination. Plus, they crop far sooner than apples, providing quicker gratification.

Just like large apple trees, blueberry bushes even have their own beautiful spring blossoms and fall foliage, ticking the box for ornamental value. So, if you're also tight on space and want a reliable, productive fruit to grow, keep reading – here's why you should consider blueberries over apples.

The Problem with Apple Trees in Small Gardens

There are several reasons why apple trees aren't the most ideal fruit trees for small gardens.

The most obvious point being they can tower with large canopies. Not only does this take up ground space with large trunks, it also casts shade over your limited outdoor space, taking away opportunities to grow sun-loving plants elsewhere.

Of course, there are compact apple tree varieties (like this 'Scarlet Sentinel' columnar apple tree at Fast Growing Trees), but maintenance is still very particular.

Apple tree pruning is quite specific, for example. You need to prune these trees in a way that improves air circulation, maintains shape, and encourages fruiting wood. This is laborious (although made easier by an electric pruner, like the Felco 2e pruning shears on Amazon), and if you get it wrong, you could stunt your apple harvest.

The majority of apple trees also don't self-pollinate, so you often need a second tree nearby for a reliable and higher yield. When you're tight on space, this isn't an easy thing to achieve.

Another common issue with apple trees in small gardens is they have a few pests and diseases to keep an eye out for. Apple scab, powdery mildew, and woolly apple aphids are particularly problematic. In a smaller garden, these issues are at a higher risk of spreading fast.

With all of this in mind, I've decided blueberries are a more achievable and manageable fruit to grow successfully in my small backyard. Here's why.

Why Blueberries Are Better for Small Gardens

For someone like me with a smaller yard, every inch of outdoor space counts. That's why blueberries are replacing apples in small gardens, as it demands much less space.

Blueberry shrubs are typically self-fertile and can produce a crop without a second plant for cross-pollination, though planting two or more varieties will boost your harvest. You should pick two varieties blooming at the same time, for example this 'Blue Jay' blueberry from Nature Hills and this 'Patriot' blueberry from Plant Addicts both blossom between April and May.

Not needing multiple shrubs, is a lot less demanding of space than needing to grow multiple apple trees.

Plus, blueberries are one of the easiest fruit to grow in pots (compact varieties are the best choice for containers), which is more favorable in a smaller yard, courtyard garden, or even on a balcony garden.

In fact, blueberry shrubs are often best grown in containers because they require an acidic soil type to thrive and bear fruit. This is far easier to control when growing in pots.

Blueberry bush pruning is also more forgiving than apple trees. It focuses on removing damaged and dead wood to encourage new growth.

And when it comes to pests and diseases, blueberry bushes are susceptible to the likes of mummy berry, botrytis blight, and more. However, it's easier to keep these at bay than apple tree problems, for example by maintaining good air circulation (you can use these Fiskars bypass pruning shears to remove crossing branches) and drainage in pots.

If you're battling with birds eating your blueberries, simply place this fruit bush netting from Lowe's over the shrub.

Blueberry Varieties to Try

There are so many different types of blueberries to grow, with pretty much all of them being suited to some form of a smaller garden, whether a tiny yard, balcony, or even in a window box.

If you like to prioritize native planting, then 'Blue Jay' blueberry (available at Plant Addicts) is a good choice. It's a larger shrub with a mounded habit, reaching 6-7ft in height, so it can work in borders and large pots. In fall, its dark green foliage turns a beautiful purple-red.

'Patriot' blueberry (also available at Plant Addicts) is an early-season option, ready to harvest from late June. It's loved for being a particularly productive shrub, yielding 10lbs or more of fruit once mature. This blueberry shrub typically reaches 4-5 feet, once again working well for gaps in planting or larger pots.

For a variety to grow in hanging baskets, window boxes, and vertical gardens, 'Sapphire Cascade' blueberry (which you can find at Plant Addicts) is the option for you. It was bred specifically for smaller spaces, with a trailing habit that turns it into an edible botanical spectacle.

You can use this vertical garden pocket plant on Amazon to create an edible living wall with 'Sapphire Cascade.'

'Sunshine Blue' blueberry (which you can find on Amazon) is another popular choice for container growing. It's a semi-evergreen compact shrub with pink-white spring flowers. It has a sweet, sugary berries ready to harvest in summer.

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If you have embarked on growing blueberries for the first time, read our guide on how to get a blueberry bush to fruit. There are a few tricks you can do to increase your yield.

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Thyme is a highly versatile herb that can be used in savory dishes, baking, oils, and marinades in the kitchen, or for its health and medicinal benefits as a tea, massage oil, or soap. Harvesting thyme is a crucial way to keep plants bushy and stop them from becoming woody, but there are right and wrong ways to do it.

Thyme is at its most flavorful in early summer, but you are not limited to picking during that period; you can potentially harvest thyme year-round. When you grow thyme, you can make regular light pickings throughout the year or a few larger harvests, depending on how you intend to use the herb.

It is important to understand how to harvest thyme, as you can damage the plant by picking too much or cutting too far back into the woody portion. Here, we look at when and how to harvest thyme so it keeps growing, so your plants are healthy and productive for years to come.

When to Harvest Thyme

Thyme can be picked lightly and regularly throughout the growing season, for particular recipes or to brew your own herbal tea. Larger harvests, however, are best left to just two or three times a year. These can be done if you want to dry or freeze an abundance of leaves at their most flavorful.

The peak time for harvesting thyme is in early summer, just before the plant flowers. At this stage of the herb’s life cycle, the oils it contains are most concentrated, giving the best taste.

If you want to preserve the aromatic herb at its absolute best, head out in the morning to pick the leaves. Harvesting thyme after the morning dew has dried is when the flavor is most intense, and it ensures the fresh leaves dry quickly, locking in that flavor.

You can pick thyme from spring until late summer, and there is even scope for small harvests over fall and winter – though the flavor isn’t the same as earlier in the year. And as the plant goes dormant when the temperatures drop, there won’t be much growth to snip.

To extend the season, grow thyme indoors in containers. You can continue picking through winter as the plant keeps growing in the warmer, protected conditions.

To avoid killing young plants, they should only be picked sparingly. If you’ve grown plants from seed, let them establish in the herb garden for their first year, then only lightly harvest in year two. The plants need a year to develop before you can start snipping them regularly.

How to Harvest Thyme

Understanding how to harvest thyme so it keeps growing ensures you snip the right parts of the stem and avoid any pruning mistakes that may leave the plant unable to recover.

To start with, you need sharp, clean pruning tools to harvest thyme. This can be a pair of pruning shears, garden snips (like these Felco pruning snips, available at Amazon), or scissors – whatever you use, make sure it is sharp and makes clean cuts and sanitized so you are not spreading diseases around the garden.

When you are taking just a few sprigs for a recipe, simply snip the stems above a leaf node. This will encourage branching and keep the plant bushy. New stems will quickly regrow, and the plant can easily handle this kind of regular trimming.

If you are taking larger harvests for drying, you need to be more careful about what and how much you pick. This is where it is important to know how to harvest thyme without killing the plant.

You can cut up to a third of the outermost foliage of the plant in one go. Remember the one-third pruning rule and don’t take more than this at once.

The plant can recover from this level of trimming, but taking more becomes a gamble. Excessive pruning past this point can stress and weaken the plant. It may struggle to recover, and any growth it does put on can be unpredictable.

You also need to avoid cutting into the thick, woody stems at the base of the plant. Stick to cutting the green, leafy growth, as the plant is unlikely to regrow from the woody stems.

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FAQs

Can You Harvest Thyme With Flowers?

Yes, you can harvest thyme stems that have flowers. In fact, the edible flowers have the same flavor as the leaves and can be used as a garnish. Or you can leave flowering stems on the plant as the blooms are great for pollinators.

Can You Harvest Thyme in the Winter?

Yes, you can harvest thyme during the colder months. As the plant goes dormant, there are limited opportunities to snip green stems if the plants are outdoors, and the leaves are less flavorful than in spring or summer. If you have thyme in pots in an indoor herb garden, you can pick fresh growth through winter.

We mentioned that thyme flowers are great for pollinators, but they are not alone among herbs. Many herbs begin to flower in early summer and provide vital food for bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and other beneficial insects.

Other herbs to let flower in June for pollinators include borage, cilantro, bee balm, and marjoram. Why not let a few of these bloom this month to help support local wildlife?

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Even the most lovingly tended yards can feel strangely flat in June. The highly anticipated spring bulbs have faded, and many perennials have had their first flush of blooms and it’s just too early for high summer favorites such as heleniums, rubeckias and kniphofia to make an appearance.

Known as the June garden gap, this crossover period can expose gaps in the most carefully curated planting plans. However, by studying how designers build a garden that looks full by June, it is easy to remedy.

With just a handful of thoughtfully chosen, hardworking annuals and perennials you can progress through the seasons. Discover these border heroes in our guide below.

Salvia

One of the hardest working perennials in any sun filled garden, salvias are a trusted designer pick-me-up for solving the June garden gap.

A diverse group of species and cultivars, thanks to their long-lasting summer blooms, these are one of the best plants for pollinators and need minimal upkeep.

There are many types of salvia, from short lived bedding and annual salvias – which include the striking painted sage, Salvia viridis, with its blue, pink or white bracts through to frost hardy, border types such as the ghostly S. yangii ‘Blue Spire’ (previously known as Perovskia atriplicifolia) and low growing Salvia nemorosa 'Caradonna'.

Salvia 'Hot Lips', with it's attention grabbing red and white blooms, are also hugely popular. Find these salvia plants at Amazon.com.

Penstemon

With their mass of eye catching tubular blooms born proudly on spires, penstemons are an easy and hard to beat border gap filler.

'Many penstemons, or beardtongue, are in peak bloom in June, with an abundance of ornamental and native types to choose from,' says plant expert and Director of Product at Applewood Seed Co. Jessica Romer.

'Depending on the species, Penstemons may attract a range of wild bees including mason and bumble bees, as well as honeybees and hummingbirds, providing crucial pollen and nectar during the early season. With 150 native penstemons in the U.S., bloom colors range from blue-purple, pink, white, to scarlet and some cultivars like Penstemon digitalis ‘Husker Red’ have maroon foliage for added interest'

Jessica's favorite penstemon varieties include Penstemon strictus of the Rocky Mountain region, Smooth Penstemon, Penstemon digitalis with it's dainty slightly pointed tubular blooms, and the desert mountain native Palmer’s Penstemon.

Find Dakota Verde Penstemon and other penstemon varieties at Nature Hills.

Allium

Flowering bulbs are a useful option when it comes adding early summer interest to a fading late spring border.

'Allium and its variants have simply exploded recently and are always a great choice to bridge the June gap,' says leading landscape architect Eric Groft. 'Choosing an early bold variety (A. Globemaster), mid-season sculptural variety (A. Christophii), and the late-season, statuesque (A. Summer Drummer) will make a statement and give your garden continuity throughout the warm weather months.'

Eric continues, 'the variety of sizes and color and bloom times make these bulbs worth the wait. Interplant them among emerging summer perennials that haven’t reached their peak, planting in groups of 3-5 across the entire bed.'

The only flower you need to attract bees, allium bulbs are widely available to buy and plant in fall. Discover a wide selection of alliums at Burpee.

Gaura

Bearing its long wands of floating pink and white four-petalled flowers, gaura or Oenothera lindheimeri is fast becoming a staple of many summer gardens. Not only in romantic and cottage style yards, but also within chic, contemporary designs too where they often mingle with sculpted evergreens and tactile grasses.

Their popularity is not just down to their ephemeral charm and easy-going nature, but also because they bloom in June, ahead of many other summer favorites.

Perennial in USDA hardiness zones 7-9, and best treated as annuals in cooler zones 5-6, these sun loving plants can tolerate part shade. Reaching up to 2 to 3 feet (60–90 cm) tall with a similar spread, gaura also known as bee blossom or 'whirling butterflies', is the perfect border filler amongst clump-forming perennials.

Coleus

There’s nothing shy and retiring about this foliage plant, which makes it perfect for pepping up a between-seasons border. Often know as painted nettle, this member of the mint family is loved for its distinctively patterned velvety leaves and less so for its tubular blue or white flowers.

‘Coleus is a beautiful annual grown for it’s interesting foliage colors and textures,’ says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. ‘A great way to add color to a shady area, coleus or Plectranthus scutellarioides does very well in heat and will stay colorful though the first frost!’

When filling a gap, choose a variety that harmonises with the surrounding flowers and foliage. Dark leaved Chocolate Mint coleus – available from Burpee – adds depth and drama and works well with burgundy and near-black stems and blooms, while Electric Lime from Burpee or Wasabi – also from Burpee – revitalize neighbouring plants with their zingy citrus notes.

Hosta

One of the best plants for shade, hostas are an elegant pick-me-up for lacklustre borders. Introducing mounds of chic tapering leaves in a range of verdant tones, from cream and green through to lime and blue-gray, they quietly lift surrounding plants.

Suited to USDA zones 3-9, hostas are amongst the best ground cover plants for dappled shade and prefer moist but well-draining soil. Reaching up to 3-4ft, depending on variety, each crown sends out slender stems with tubular white or lilac flowers in summer.

Find a six pack of mixed hosta plants at Amazon.

Spirea

Often-overlooked yet a trusted low-effort cottage garden plant, spirea quietly fills any border gaps with vibrant color-changing leaves, born on wiry stems, and flat-topped pink or white blooms that appear in June and last for weeks.

Cold hardy and thriving in USDA Hardiness Zones 3a to 9, deciduous spirea is loved by pollinators, grows to 1 to 2ft (30-61cm) tall and wide, and is happy in full sun or part shade.

‘This shrub is a plant it and forget it variety that’s low-maintenance and heat tolerant and drought tolerant,’ says Katie. ‘Spirea have been a widely used shrub that is versatile in a wide range of growing climates. They also maintain an even, mounding habit, making it easy to add to even smaller locations.’

Spirea varieties to consider, include Spirea japonica 'Walbuma' aka Magia Carpet Spirea with leaves that emerge as burgundy, graduate to lime before fading to russet in fall. Find spirea plants at Nature Hills.

For more ideas on how to lift and refresh your future summer garden, consider introducing one or two of the best flowering shrubs and learn how to create a foliage border.

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If you're wondering whether it's too late to plant grass seed in June, the answer is no. Lawn experts say you can successfully sow grass seed at this time of year, but choosing the right grass variety for summer conditions is crucial to achieving good results.

While spring and fall are traditionally considered the best seasons for sowing grass seed, June's warm soil temperatures can help seed germinate quickly. The key is selecting a suitable mix and giving new seedlings the care they need to establish during warmer weather.

To find out exactly when to sow grass seed and which grass seed varieties experts recommend, we asked lawn care professionals to share their advice.

Planting Grass Seed in June

If your lawn has bare patches of grass that require overseeding in June, the good news is you can definitely sow grass seed this month – if you pick the right variety.

Warm-season grasses are better to sow in June, due to their increased heat tolerance over cool-season grasses.

‘Generally, warm-season grass is best planted in the late spring or early summer, so June often falls into that category, while cool-season grass is best planted in the late summer or early fall,’ says Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love.

Warm-season grasses include Zoysia grass, which you can find at Walmart, Bermuda grass, centipede grass, available from Amazon, or St. Augustine grass.

So, should cooler-season grasses be avoided completely, or could you give planting this type of grass seed a go?

Jason Keeley, founder of Mowing Magic, says: ‘For cool-season grasses like fescue or Kentucky bluegrass, fall is preferable, but June can still work if you're prepared to water regularly and manage heat stress.'

Planting grass seed in June

Choosing the right grass seed is only part of the equation.

If you're planting grass seed in June, the biggest challenge is managing heat and moisture while new seedlings establish.

Warm soil temperatures can encourage rapid germination, but prolonged heat and dry conditions can quickly dry out the soil and stress young grass.

Protecting newly sown areas from intense sunlight is a good idea. Harsh, direct sun can dry out the soil and scorch emerging seedlings. In particularly sunny locations, a shade cloth, such as this one from Amazon, can help protect young grass.

Consistent watering is equally important. Grass seed needs reliably moist soil to germinate successfully, which may mean watering daily during warm spells to prevent the top inch of soil from drying out.

'As things heat up in June, your water can start to evaporate rather than penetrating deep into the soil like you want it to,' says Ryan Farley, CEO of LawnStarter. 'To get around this, I'd recommend setting up your water scheduling so you're avoiding the hottest parts of the day.

'Stick to thorough, deep watering in the early morning, early afternoon, and evening.'

Once the seed is down, protect the area from children, pets and heavy foot traffic while the grass establishes. When it comes to cutting new grass, wait until the new grass reaches at least three inches tall, and never remove more than one-third of the blade height in a single cut.

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FAQs

Can I Scarify a Lawn in June?

June is not an ideal time to scarify a lawn. The right times of year are as part of fall or spring lawn care. June is too late and it can damage or stress the lawn if you scarify or dethatch a lawn in warmer months.

What Are The Key Lawn Care Jobs for June?

You want to mow the lawn every week or two to keep it neat, ideally in a different mowing pattern each time rather than the same up-and-down routine, to keep the grass healthy.

Taking time to edge a lawn after cutting will give a slick, neat outline and create separation from flower beds or a kitchen garden. And, finally, watering the lawn during spells of hot weather will keep it green and healthy rather than brown and patchy.

Lawn care is a year-round requirement to keep any grass looking at its best, and there are some common errors that people make.

To avoid making any of them yourself, our guide to five common lawn care mistakes highlights issues such as overwatering, over-fertilizing, and mowing too low, not to fall foul of.

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Biennials are the often-overlooked middle sibling of flowers. They don’t make the yearly displays of perennials or offer the immediate impact of annuals. But don't overlook how important biennials are; you should embrace them, and June is an ideal time to sow lots of biennial flowers.

Sowing biennials in early summer fits their life cycle perfectly. They’ve got many months ahead to produce strong roots and foliage, before going dormant for winter and then bursting into life and flowering in spring or summer. With a bit of planning, you can get lots of gorgeous blooms to enhance your flower beds or container displays at a crucial time, with many flowering after the spring bulbs and before the annuals.

In mild and northern hardiness zones, biennials are ideal for planting in June. You can sow seeds either indoors or outdoors, depending on your preference, and there are some fantastic plants to choose from. I prefer the former – sowing indoors and planting them outdoors in fall – and here are some of my favorite biennials to sow in June.

Foxgloves

Foxgloves, or Digitalis, bring vertical drama to any flower bed in spring and early summer, with their tall spikes of flowers demanding attention before many other perennials or annuals really get going. The flowers are good for pollinators and also look stunning in a vase when used as cut flowers.

I usually start foxglove varieties indoors in June. The seeds are very fine and only need to be scattered on the surface and pressed into the compost. Don’t cover them though, as they need light to germinate.

Give them temperatures of 50–60°F in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, and they’ll germinate in a few weeks. Then, you can transplant seedlings into the garden in early fall.

See foxglove seeds at True Leaf Market

See foxglove seeds at Burpee

Canterbury Bells

Canterbury Bells is a biennial type of campanula and a popular cottage garden plant. They have fragrant, bell-shaped flowers in shades of white, pink, blue, and purple that sit on tall spires and gently nod in the summer breeze.

This biennial flower prefers milder climates, rather than the hottest, southern US hardiness zones.

To sow seeds indoors in early summer, finely scatter the seeds in trays and press them into the compost. You can top with a very fine layer of vermiculite, but the seeds do require light to germinate. At temperatures of 70-75°F, the seeds will germinate in two to three weeks.

Gently pot up the seedlings into individual pots filled with well-draining potting soil once they are large enough to handle. Plant them outside in the fall or next spring into a sunny spot in the garden.

Shop Canterbury Bells seeds at Amazon

Shop Canterbury Bells seeds at Walmart

Wallflowers

Biennial wallflowers are popular spring flowering plants to use in large numbers for bright, highly fragrant displays. They come in vivid shades, which make a real impact when planted in mass, and are really simple to grow from seeds sown in early summer.

Wallflowers are one biennial that buck the trend for me. As I said at the start, I usually start my biennials off in trays or pots, but not when I grow wallflowers. For them, I still use the traditional way of starting them off a nursery seedbed.

To do this, I prepare the bed and rake it to a fine tilth. I then sow seeds into rows, let them germinate, and them transplant them from this bed to their final position in the fall.

You can, however, still start them off in trays if you want to and prick them out into pots to grow on before planting out. Wallflowers reliably germinate quickly and benefit from pinching out once they reach six inches tall, to encourage bushing and more blooms.

Shop wallflower seeds at Amazon

Shop wallflower seeds at Walmart

Sweet Williams

Sweet William, or Dianthus barbatus, is a nostalgic plant, and one that I grew in large numbers for displays in one historic garden I worked in for several years. The plant played an important role in the summer formal parterre display each season, and I always sowed the seeds of the biennial in summer.

Sweet Williams burst into flower in late spring and summer. The colorful blooms, which can be red, pink, purple, or white, are clusters of many flowers, each with serrated petals, that sit atop thin stems, and attract bees and butterflies during the flowering season.

To grow Sweet Williams, sow seeds onto the surface of pots filled with compost. These pots can go into a cold frame or an unheated greenhouse to germinate. The location is important, as for the best results, Sweet Williams need cool temperatures rather than too much warmth.

If you don’t have a suitable location to start the plants off, the seeds can be sown directly into their growing position onto the soil surface and thinned to 12 inches apart.

See the range of Sweet William seeds at Botanical Interests

See the range of Sweet William seeds at True Leaf Market

Honesty

Honesty, Lunaria annua, has been popular for centuries, primarily for its translucent seedheads that can either be cut and used for dried flower arrangements or left on the plant to add glorious interest in a winter garden.

But don’t overlook the flowers, too, as the delicate four-petalled purple blooms (you can get white varieties, too) are a beautiful addition to any space in late spring or early summer.

June is the last month to sow honesty seeds each year, to ensure they have the time to develop strong roots this year to see them through winter and burst into life come spring.

Sow the seeds into pots and cover with a light layer of soil or vermiculite and germinate them in a cold frame, or make shallow drills into your beds and sow directly into them.

Whether you transplant young plants or thin seedlings, honesty plants ultimately want to be spaced 12 inches apart and grown in full sun or partial shade.

See honesty seeds at True Leaf Market

See honesty seeds at Amazon

Hollyhock

Hollyhocks are grown as biennials, but once you plant them in a garden, you may consider them a perennial as they will make themselves properly at home and self-seed around. Like a guest who simply won’t leave, but one you are happy to have stay.

The plants are adored for the tall flowering spikes that can reach up to six feet in summer. They won’t flower this year, but planting hollyhock seeds in June will give you stunning blooms next year.

And if you sow next summer, they’ll bloom the following year. From that point on, your self-seeded hollyhocks can take over for year after year of charming flowers.

Sow the seeds directly into the soil this month. Gently scatter them and barely cover them with soil, as they need light to germinate. If you keep them moist, but not waterlogged, they’ll germinate readily in early summer temperatures.

Hollyhocks do make good plants for pollinators. If you do want to grow them in a wildlife garden, pick single-flowered varieties, whose nectar is easier to access by bees and butterflies.

See the range of hollyhock seeds at Botanical Interests

See the range of hollyhock seeds at True Leaf Market

See the range of hollyhock seeds at Burpee

Evening Primrose

This native plant has decorative, fragrant, bowl-shaped, yellow flowers that open in the evening and attract night-time pollinators, including moths and nocturnal bees.

It is a very pretty night-scented plant, but it has a reputation for being aggressive. Evening primrose does self-seed, so deadheading is advisable if you want to stop it from spreading around your garden or into your neighbor's property.

And you can plant it in containers to stop the rhizome spreading. Control is something to consider before sowing this biennial plant.

Directly sow the seeds outdoors onto the soil surface and tamp them down, then thin seedlings to around 12 inches apart once they germinate. If you start the plants off indoors, which you can do, sow into biodegradable pots this month and plant them out in the fall to reduce any root disturbance.

Shop evening primrose seeds at Amazon

Shop evening primrose seeds at Walmart

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June is a busy month for sowing and planting. As well as biennials to sow in June, there are still annuals and vegetables to plant this month. For inspiration, our in-depth guide to what to plant in June contains fast annuals, heat-loving vegetables, summer bedding, herbs, and more that you can add to your garden in early summer.

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Weeding can feel relentless during the growing season. Leave the garden unattended for even a few days in spring or summer, and you'll likely return to find dandelions, docks and other self-seeding weeds taking hold in your borders.

Rather than relying on chemical weed killers, which can harm wildlife and the wider ecosystem, a more sustainable solution is to grow plants that naturally suppress unwanted growth. By forming a dense canopy over the soil, these varieties limit the space and light that weeds need to germinate and thrive.

As a professional gardener, I have grown many of the following plants, selecting them for their ability to crowd out weeds while adding ornamental value. Much like the best ground cover plants to stop weeds, these evergreen and perennial picks are proven to keep borders looking fuller, healthier and largely weed-free. Here, I share six of the best plants to stop weeds.

1. Monkey Grass

When considering how to grow monkey grass, or Liriope muscari, this tough and versatile ground cover can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10, tolerating a wide range of climates and conditions.

Over time, this part-shade perennial forms a lush carpet of evergreen foliage that covers bare soil and naturally crowds out weeds, helping to reduce maintenance while keeping borders looking full and tidy throughout the year.

'If you are looking for a plant that will form a dense carpet and keep weeds at bay, monkey grass is a superb option,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

'While this low-growing plant might take a year or two to establish, once it is settled and happy, it does not require much attention, easily tolerating dry periods in summer.'

You can find great value 'big blue' liriope plants at Nature Hills.

2. Juniper

If you are looking for low-growing evergreen ground cover plants to choke out weeds, juniper should be at the top of your wish list.

Juniperus horizontalis, commonly known as the creeping juniper, is an attractive foliage shrub that will provide year-round greenery, useful in challenging areas under large trees.

One of the best native plants to stop weeds, juniper can be grown in US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 9, doing best in a sunny spot. If you are wondering how to get rid of weeds without using sprays or chemicals, then planting juniper is a good option.

The 'blue rug' groundcover juniper from Fast Growing Trees is a great option.

3. Carex

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant that will naturally crowd out weeds, carex is hard to beat. Considered one of the best native grasses, many carex species spread steadily to form dense clumps that cover bare soil and leave little room for unwanted growth.

One attractive option is Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pennsylvanica), a fast-growing native with fine-textured foliage that turns warm shades of orange and copper in fall. It can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 8, and thrives in partially shaded locations.

Many carex species spread via rhizomes, producing underground stems that send up new shoots and gradually knit together into a weed-suppressing carpet. For the best results, avoid one common weeding mistake and plant carex in generous drifts rather than as isolated specimens, allowing the foliage to quickly fill gaps and shade the soil.

You can find Carex 'feather falls' plants at Burpee.

4. Ground Cover Roses

If you are looking for the best course of action to keep weeds out of flowerbeds, growing resilient plants with dense canopies is a good option.

Ground cover roses, otherwise known as procumbent roses, can be very useful for gardeners seeking to suppress weeds. 'Ground cover roses are low-growing, typically reaching 1 to 2 feet tall,' says garden expert Katie Sunderlage.

'These roses, when planted close together, can form a dense and thick rose carpet,' Katie adds. 'Not only will this mean a sea of blooms, but it will help to keep weeds out of the yard, unable to compete with the canopy and root networks of your roses.

There is a wide selection of groundcover roses, including this beautiful Peach Drift® Groundcover Rose at Nature Hills.

As with all roses, when considering how to grow ground cover roses, it is optimal to select a sunny site with well-draining soil. Fertilize your plants during the growing season using a rose feed, available from Walmart.

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5. Pinus Mugo

Often considered one of the best pine trees, Pinus mugo, commonly known as the dwarf pine, is notable for its compact and dense habit.

When planted in groups, small mounded shrubs will eventually connect, forming a cloud-like structure. However, the dwarf pine is a slow-growing shrub, so be warned, it might take several years to fill a border.

You can find dwarf mugo pine shrubs at Fast Growing Trees.

Growing best in US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 7, this low-growing shrub is ideal for those cooler yards in northerly locations.

Helpfully, fallen pine needles form a mulch layer on the surface of the soil which can prevent weeds from germinating. So, while these diminutive shrubs might be slow-growing, they will eventually prove very useful in your fight against weeds.

6. Hellebores

Hellebores are usually grown for their elegant winter and early spring flowers, but they can also be surprisingly effective at keeping weeds at bay. These shade-loving perennials produce large, leathery evergreen leaves that cover the soil for much of the year, helping to block light and reduce opportunities for weed seeds to germinate.

If weed suppression is your goal, plant hellebores in generous drifts rather than as individual specimens. As the plants mature, their foliage will knit together to form a canopy that shades the ground and limits unwanted growth, particularly in woodland-style borders and other shady corners.

There are many hellebore varieties and species to choose from, offering flowers in shades of white, pink, purple and near-black. Most perform best in US hardiness zones 4 to 8, often blooming through frost and snow when little else is in flower.

Why not consider learning how to propagate hellebores, increasing your plant collection for free by dividing established clumps?

Alternatively, hellebore plants are available to buy online from Amazon.

Preventing weeds from germinating is the best course of action in any yard, and all of these weed-suppressing plants will help to stop weeds from taking hold in your borders.

While weeds can be troublesome in any yard, remember that these plants are a valuable food source for pollinators such as birds and bees. If you can, consider leaving a small patch of ground where weeds can grow to attract hungry pollinators to your plot. For more information, see our guide on flowering weeds for pollinators.

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Planting choices make a big difference to whether you feed or starve a wild fire. The truth is all plants can burn but low growing, ground hugging ones are less likely to cause a problem, especially if they're varieties that hold a lot of moisture in their leaves. Native perennials can be a good choice in an area where fire risk is prevalent as they grow there naturally anyway.

Where plants are placed and how they're maintained including pruning and debris removal can make a huge difference in reducing your fire risk. Adequate spacing between plants, shrubs and trees, and ensuring plenty of landscaping materials like gravel or rocks in between them is an important element in firescaping designs too.

When it's extremely hot, such as in the event of a wild fire, plants to consider are those that even though they burn won't contribute to the spread from plant to plant. So the planting choices you make can potentially have a big effect on the outcome. Here are 7 heat and spark resistant plants that will be a beautiful asset in your garden as part of your fire-smart landscaping ideas.

1. Rock Soapwort

This low-growing plant contains natural soap in its leaves that decreases flammability. Also known as Saponaria ocymoides, this pretty plant thrives in Zones 3-8, is drought tolerant, and does well in sandy or poor soil once established.

Soapwort forms a spreading mat of small semi-evergreen leaves that stays compact, so it's ideal if you're looking for heat and spark resistant plants to space evenly in the garden as part of your firewise landscaping.

'Some plants are fire retardant, in that they don’t tend to burn, depriving a fire of fuel, or they are fire resistant, being difficult to ignite,' according to Adrienne Edwards and Rachel Schleiger, authors of Firescaping Your Home: A Manual for Readiness in Wildfire Country, available on Amazon.

'Fire-resistant plants are able to act as radiant heat screens and absorb more of the heat of an approaching fire without burning. Fire-resistant ground covers can also capture burning embers without catching fire themselves.'

Abundant clusters of rose-pink blooms cover rock soapwort during summer, and the trailing stems will weave naturally through gravel and sunny borders, as well as over rocks and crevices to soften hard edges. Find rock soapwort seeds here at Amazon that are super-quick to germinate in as little as 14 days.

2. White Sage

Drought-tolerant white sage (Salvia apiana) belongs to the mint family, and has distinctive visual characteristics that immediately distinguish it from common culinary sage.

The evergreen perennial shrub enhances any garden with its silvery-white foliage, and has the beautiful distinctive scent you traditionally find with sage plants. It's also a native plant.

It's one of the best fire resistant plants too. This low-growing, long-lived variety of sage is particularly good if you're looking to add heat and spark resistant plants to your garden. Soft herbaceous varieties like white sage are a good choice for both fire remediation and water conservation.

They require very little water but have a high water content in their leaves that makes them more fire resistant.

'A bonus of planting natives is they almost always require less water than non-natives to stay healthy,' according to Adrienne and Rachel. 'Healthy plants that are sufficiently hydrated are less likely to ignite. And slow-growing, locally adapted plants can reduce your maintenance burden.'

During flowering season tall white flowers rise dramatically above foliage that attracts swarms of bees, making it invaluable for drought-tolerant pollinator gardens. White sage thrives in Zones 3-9 in sandy, gravelly, well-drained soil.

Find white sage seeds here at Walmart, then give them a headstart with a germination kit like the Smart Seed Starter available from Amazon, which has grow lights and a heat option combined to speed up seed development times.

3. Snow-In-Summer

Beautiful and low growing, snow-in-summer (Cerastium tomentosum) blooms in sunbaked spots even when it's very hot, often thriving where little else will grow.

A creeping groundcover that spreads 2-3 feet, it will soon form a dense mat of silver foliage covered with a profusion of white flowers that is perfect for hot borders, dry slopes and gravel gardens.

This is one of the heat and spark resistant plants that can handle some of the toughest droughts. In addition the leaves have a high water content that can help suppress the spread of fire. Thriving in Zones 3-7, it offers a nice contrast in the landscape with its pretty silvery-gray foliage and summer flowers.

Sow snow-in-summer seeds like this variety from Walmart directly in the ground in spring and they will germinate in 14-21 days. The good news is they will self-seed too, and they also attract butterflies.

4. Blanket Flower

The long blooming perennial also known as Gaillardia loves sunlight and is very drought tolerant. It grows low on the ground and will spread to fill your fire-wise landscape with daisy-like flowers that come in a range of colors frequently featuring red petals tipped in gold.

If you're looking for easy heat and spark resistant plants that will add a bold splash of color make these resilient, sun-loving dwarf perennials your first choice. They do best in sunny, dry locations and are hardy in zones 3–10, growing to a compact height of around 15 inches.

Another plus is they will attract pollinators all summer long. They require minimal maintenance. In fact, they made it onto our list of the best low-maintenance drought-tolerant plants.

Widely considered a good choice if you're looking for firewise planting ideas, blanket flowers have low flammability, high moisture retention in their foliage, and grow low to the ground, meaning they tick all the boxes we look for when choosing heat and spark resistant plants. Find vibrant dwarf 'Arizona Red Shades' blanket flower plants here at Amazon.

5. Daylilies

Vibrant daylilies are another great choice for heat and spark resistant plants for fire smart landscaping, especially as they have masses of lush leaves full of moisture, so they don't easily catch fire. In general, plants that are green and well-irrigated burn more slowly.

Thriving in Zones 3-10, they can easily be cut down once the leaves begin to die off, meaning they don't accumulate dry, woody material that is easily ignited.

Another plus is that they are a clumping plant that can be landscaped around with gravel or sand to create islands of planting that reduce the risk of fire spreading between them easily. In fact, these tough and hardy plants are pretty indestructible.

Find a selection of gorgeous yellow, orange, pink and purple daylilies to choose from here at Nature Hills. Plant in well-draining soil but daylilies also adapt well to various conditions, including xeriscaping.

6. Yucca

Generally considered to be fire-resistant, the succulent leaves on yucca plants store a lot of water that can slow the spread of flames.

They don't have much woody growth either, which means they're a good choice if you're looking for heat and spark resistant plants for fire-smart landscaping.

Experts say many native plants like yucca take longer to burn and recover much more quickly. Local native plant societies and nurseries can provide information. The Native Plant Society of Oregon, for example, supplies advice about landscaping with native plants. Meanwhile the California Native Plant Society’s online tool Calscape is a useful research aid when you're choosing plants.

Yuccas come in a variety of shapes from small to supersized. Thriving in Zones 4-10, they can cope with harsh, dry conditions, and their long roots access water stored deep in the soil. This means they're able to withstand long periods of drought.

Yuccas introduce an architectural quality to landscaping design and are often used as specimen plants to add a shapely focal point. Leaves come in various shades of green, gray-green, and green and yellow.

During the growing season the tall stalks of white flowers add another point of interest. For something a little more unusual try the red yucca available here from Nature Hills, which has tubular deep pink flowers that attract hummingbirds.

7. Lamb's Ears

The drought-resistant perennial lamb's ears, also known as Stachys byzantina, thrives in difficult conditions including dry shade and poor soils. It has silver-gray leaves with a high water content that resists fire, which makes it a good choice for firescaping.

To use lamb’s ear effectively in a fire-resistant landscape, plant it in the low-fuel "defensible space" zone around your home, and keep the plant trimmed back and free of any build up of dead material. This plant looks beautiful in gravel landscaping and rock garden ideas.

Lamb’s ears also spreads very well so is a great option if you're filling gaps in your fire-smart planting design. Find 'Helene Von Stein' lamb's ears here at Nature Hills, a compact spreading form that is ideal if you're looking for heat and spark resistant plants.

You may also be interested in finding out how to avoid common firescaping mistakes when planning fire-smart landscaping. Find more inspiration too in our guide to desert landscaping ideas to help you come up with a design that really works for you.

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If your fig tree is producing plenty of leafy growth but no fruit, it is usually a sign that something is missing from its growing conditions. While figs are among the easiest fruit trees to grow in warm, sunny gardens, they need the right balance of light, warmth, water and pruning to produce an abundant crop.

The good news is that a fruitless fig tree can often be encouraged to crop with a few simple adjustments. And with figs developing and ripening through summer, now is the perfect time to check whether your tree is getting everything it needs to set fruit successfully.

To find out how to boost your harvest, we asked expert growers to share the three most effective ways to encourage a fig tree to fruit, from maximizing sunlight to avoiding common pruning mistakes. (And in case you're not growing a fig trees yet, the Fignomenal Fig Tree from Fast Growing Trees is a wonderful dwarf option, which is perfect for pots and smaller yards.)

1. Make Sure Your Fig is Getting the Heat it Needs

For successful growth of any plant, you need to provide growing conditions that are similar to their native environment.

With fig trees being native to Mediterranean climates, it's best to grow them in the warmer climates of US hardiness zone 7 to zone 11. They really need heat and warmth.

Unless it is specifically bred for colder climates, it is unlikely that a fig tree will produce fruit in cooler locations. This Chicago fig tree from Fast Growing Trees is cold hardy to zone 5, and still produces masses of fruit, so look out for this option if you don't always get the hottest summers.

'Fig trees need hot and fairly dry summer weather to produce fruit. They need plenty of sunlight to produce their delicious fruits,' says Annette Hird, expert gardener and fruit grower at Easy Urban Gardens.

'Being a Mediterranean plant, it doesn't like too much water in summer,' she adds.

If you are growing a fig tree in a container, try to move it to the warmest areas of your yard or next to a heat-retaining brick wall, to give it the best chance possible of producing fruit.

2. Prune Dead And Damaged Plant Material

Pruning a fig tree is one of the most effective ways to encourage it to produce more fruit. Left unchecked, vigorous growth can result in a dense canopy of branches and leaves, with the tree directing its energy into foliage rather than developing figs.

'Regular pruning encourages fruit production by directing the tree's energy. Trim off any excess branches that might be stealing resources from potential figs,' notes Evan Torchio, tree expert and CEO of Tree Mender.

Removing overcrowded, dead, damaged, or poorly positioned branches improves airflow and light penetration throughout the canopy while helping the tree concentrate its resources on fruiting growth. The result is often a healthier tree and a more reliable harvest.

Investing in quality pruning tools can also make the job easier. Sharp bypass pruners are ideal for smaller stems, such as these Corona bypass pruning shears from Amazon, while mature trees may require long-handled loppers or a pruning saw to tackle thicker branches. Gardening gloves, such as these Fiskars ones from Target are also an essential when doing any pruning.

3. Use a Potassium-Rich Fertilizer For Your Fig Tree

Just like fertilizing any fruit tree, providing your fig tree with the right food really makes a difference when it comes to productivity.

Not every fertilizer is right for every plant. Watch for the NPK plant fertilizer numbers and check the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in it. Each nutrient has a different boosting effect on plants, and you want to use one that is stronger in potassium and lower in nitrogen. A ratio of 10-10-20 would work.

'Fertilizer will help but it needs to have a decent amount of potassium to encourage fruiting and not be too high in nitrogen,' says Annette.

'Fertilizers that have somewhat similar ratios of potassium and nitrogen will work well. Fertilizers that are specifically formulated for citrus trees will also work well,' Annette suggests.

This specific fig tree fertilizer from Amazon is idea. You could also use citrus tree fertilizer, also from Amazon to help boost your delicious yields.

It can sometimes feel impossible to achieve, but with just a little bit of patience and by making the right adjustments, you can encourage your fig tree to produce delicious fruit.

Make sure to also winterize fig trees during colder months to protect them from harsher temperatures that may hinder their ability to produce fruit in summer.

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Early summer is a perfect opportunity to expand your plant collection. Plants are in prime growing mode in June, so cuttings reliably root quickly. As growing from cuttings is fun and budget-friendly, there is no better time to try, and there is a wide variety of potential plants to propagate in June.

There are shrubs, perennials, climbers, vegetables, and herbs suitable for cuttings this month. Most plants will establish this season and be ready to be planted out next spring, but some on this list offer more immediate rewards than others. Either way, you get lots of new plants for free to add to your backyard flower beds or kitchen garden.

If you are in the mood to get lots of new plants and enjoy the immense satisfaction that comes from taking plant cuttings and raising these new babies, here are seven candidates for plants to propagate in June, along with some tips to help you on your way.

Nepeta

There are so many wonderful reasons to grow catmint, or Nepeta, in your garden. Its attractive, and fragrant, silver-green foliage topped with purple blooms just looks fabulous, and it is low-maintenance and great for pollinators.

Plus, it is versatile, capable of thriving and serving looks in anything from cottage gardens to rock gardens. So taking cuttings to get more nepeta just makes sense.

Early summer is a perfect time to take catmint cuttings. Take 4-6-inch cuttings from healthy, non-flowering stems, and remove the lower sets of leaves. Dip the bottom of the cutting in rooting hormone before placing it into a small pot filled with potting soil.

This Bontone II rooting powder at Garden Goods Direct can be used for any type of cuttings to help speed up root development.

This pot wants to be kept in a bright spot, but not in direct sunlight. In ideal conditions, the cutting should root in a few weeks.

Salvia and Russian sage are similar plants to Nepeta in that they have silvery foliage, blue or purple flowers, and are regarded as drought-tolerant perennials. They are also both plants to propagate in June.

Buttonbush

Buttonbush shrubs are unique native plants. Have one in your garden, and it will demand attention with its unusual spherical blooms that look like pincushions. While it usually draws plaudits for its looks, it is useful too, as those blooms are a beacon for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds throughout summer.

If you have a wetter corner of the yard, such as a rain garden, growing buttonbush is ideal as it is often found in the wild in wetlands, bogs, or near the edges of ponds and streams.

In June, you can take 4-6-inch cuttings of soft stems at the end of branches. Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears, garden snips, or a knife to take cuttings and remove the lowest sets of leaves.

Dip it in rooting hormone, then put it into a small pot filled with well-draining potting mix. When kept somewhere warm and in indirect sunlight, the cutting should develop roots within a few weeks.

This pocket-sized garden tool sharpener, available at Amazon, can be used on any pruning tools with a straight blade to get them sharp ahead of trimming or taking cuttings.

Bee Balm

If you want to add more aromatic plants to attract wildlife to your garden, you can do a lot worse than taking cuttings from bee balm. To put it simply, these attractive native perennials are among the best plants for pollinators and guaranteed to attract bees, butterflies, and moths in droves to their tubular nectar-rich blooms.

All monarda varieties can be propagated from seed, cuttings, or division. Come early summer, taking cuttings is the best way to go. Your new plants will establish over the rest of this year, be ready to plant out next year, and then burst into a plethora of flowers the following summer.

Pick stems that are non-blooming and free from any signs of disease or pest damage to use as your propagation material. Remove the lower leaves, dip them in rooting hormone, then insert them into a well-draining potting mix, like this organic potting mix from Burpee.

The cutting wants to be kept moist, but not overwatered. To retain moisture and create a humid environment that helps with rooting, cover the pot with a clear lid or a plastic bag. Remove this once the roots have established, and pot up the cutting.

Clematis

You can propagate clematis plants from cuttings in June. However, they are done a little bit differently from some others on this list. Whereas you use the tips of the shoots for most shrubs and perennials, for this flowering climber, you use the middle sections of vines as the propagation material – these are called internodal cuttings.

The key when you grow clematis is to find a strong stem around three feet long to take cuttings from. Within this, the tips of the vine will be too soft, while it’ll be too woody at the bottom. The sweet spot is in the middle, where the stem is flexible but not too firm.

Prepare it into 3-4-inch sections, cutting above a pair of leaves and also a few inches below that node and the next one down the stem. Dip the base of the cutting into rooting hormone and place it in a small pot filled with compost.

You can place up to five clematis cuttings around the edge of the four or five-inch pot – it is better to take several cuttings as fuchsias can be temperamental.

Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag and put it on a bright windowsill. Alternatively, using nursery pots with humidity domes, like these at Amazon, creates an ideal environment for cuttings to prosper.

Lavender

Lavender remains one of the most treasured plants. For many years, homeowners have added it to their gardens for low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, fragrant foliage and flowers that can simply be enjoyed or used for culinary or medicinal uses.

Growing lavender also boosts local biodiversity, as pollinators and beneficial insects are attracted to the plants. That is all the more reason to add to your lavender collection, whether you place your plants in borders, containers, or use them as edging to create an elegant, fragrant garden path.

To propagate lavender, softwood cuttings can be taken in June from the current season’s shoots. Take 3-4-inch cuttings and remove the lower leaves – you will be left with a few inches of bare stem to go in the soil.

Dip the end in rooting hormone and place four or five cuttings into a small pot filled with well-draining potting mix. Water the container well and cover it with a clear bag or plastic lid.

You must use sharp pruning tools when trimming. A pair of garden snips, like these Fiskar pruning scissors at Amazon, is always a great option for making precise cuts when taking cuttings.

Tomato

Tomatoes are a crop that all gardeners love growing. Traditionally, you buy young plants or start your own tomato varieties from seed. However, there is a third way to start growing tomatoes – taking cuttings.

Once tomato plants are planted and growing, it is time to prune the tomatoes to remove the side shoots that grow between the main stem and the leaf branches. If any of these shoots reach six inches long, they can be snipped off and placed in a glass of water to produce roots.

This cutting will quickly develop shoots and can then be planted into pots to grow on. These new tomato plants will produce fruit later in the season, offering a handy way to extend your tomato harvests for little work or cost.

Basil

For this one, you don’t even need to have a plant in your own garden. If you are growing basil at home, it helps. Otherwise, you can take cuttings from store-bought basil plants for new plants that offer fresh leaves for your cooking.

Growing basil from cuttings is made all the simpler by the fact that the aromatic herb is one of the simplest plants to root in water. Take 6-8-inch cuttings from healthy stems, ensuring there is at least one healthy node at the base after you trim.

Remove the lower leaves and place the cutting in a container filled with water. Place it on a bright windowsill and watch as the roots start to appear within a week.

If you get a stylish propagation station like this at Walmart, you can propagate different stems or plants in water at the same time and see how the roots develop.

Change the water every few days and put the cutting in a container filled with potting mix once the roots reach 1-2 inches long.

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June is a great time to transform flower beds, borders, and backyard container displays. As the days get sunnier and the soil remains warm and moist, the conditions are ideal to add lots of plants to your garden. Our guide to what to plant in June reveals a long list of flowers and edibles you can plant this month to get your garden ready for summer.

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A pergola draped in colorful flowering vines isn't just a spectacular sight, it provides much needed shade during the hottest months of the year. One of our favorite plants for this task, is Clematis – and there are so many beauties to choose from.

Each of the groups and species has different merits, but for a profusion of blooms throughout the summer, look to Group 3. Within this group, Clematis 'Viticella' offers a range of pretty varieties, crosses and cultivars in colors from subtle to striking that will provide a long-lasting floral canopy.

These fast-growing climbers will keep your pergola looking fabulous, fragrant and more comfortable while you dine or entertain outside, until the fall. In addition, Clematis 'Viticella' are low-maintenance, loved by pollinators and hardy, so it's a reliable variety for a range of regions. This Violette Etoile Clematis from Lowe's is a Viticella that should reach 8-12', with deep purple-violet blooms that last until early fall.

Why we love Clematis

The scope of flower shapes and hues is vast across the various Clematis species. Colors span the palest cream and pastel tones through to vibrant reds, pinks and yellows to the deepest purples, on tiny delicate flowers and those with pretty nodding heads, to big blousy blooms with striped petals or contrasting stamens. And if you plant more than one variety, you could have continual blooms from spring to fall.

'If you're starting out with Clematis, I would recommend growing a 'Montana' from Group one, embellished with a 'Viticella' or 'Flammula' from Group three,' says Heather Carr, co-owner, Thorncroft Clematis.

'Consider how big your pergola is and choose a group 1 that will cover but not swamp the structure. Group 1 species groups to consider would be spring flowering Montana, the spring flowering and Evergreen Armandii or winter flowering Evergreen Cirrhosa.

'This will give you generous coverage and a succession of blooms. Montanas grow fast, so can cover a pergola quickly with foliage and early spring flowers, while the Viticellas will reward you with beautiful blooms from June or July through to September or October, depending on the variety.

'Flammula offer more scent and they're easy to grow in any aspect, although their perfume will be stronger in a sunny spot.'

For fragrance and color, this 'Sweet Summer Love' Clematis from Nature Hill's is a scented 'Flammula' from Group three. It grows 10-15' tall and 6-10' wide, with vibrant magenta-purple flowers, a sweet perfume, and it's suitable for hardiness zones 3a-9b.

'Clematis wrap their tendrils around their host, so if the structure is wider than ½” by ½” they need a little help,' explains Rob Wein, owner, Clearview Horticultural Products.

'Sweet summer Love is a rapid grower, so wrapping a sweet pea netting or stapling a netting will work well. Alternatively, running wire or even string up the posts is useful for the clematis to climb on.'

This Pink Mink Clematis from Plant Addicts is a Group 3 hybrid that will grow to 10' and attract butterflies and hummingbirds to its vivid pink summer blooms. It will do best in a sunny to partially sunny location in USDA planting zones 4 to 9.

What to Consider When Choosing Clematis For Your Pergola

With over 4000 varieties, choosing the best Clematis for your pergola – and the growing conditions in your garden – is an individual endeavour. Some varieties are reliable, hardy and easy-to-grow while others have more requirements. Not all grow to great heights and some can spread a little too vigorously.

There are Clematis that are early bloomers, and those that flower later. The former tend to be from Group one (or A), which flower April-June, while the latter are usually Group 3 (or C), which bloom from June/July to September/October. Group 2 (or B) generally flower in the spring, with a second flourish at the end of the summer.

There is also the enormous range of colors and flower shapes available. How to grow Clematis will differ slightly according to these factors, however most retailers enable you to select on these criteria to make choosing simpler.

'Taste and colour schemes are so personal, so when customers ask me which clematis for a pergola, I direct them to something in the group 1’s that will get up and over the pergola and then Viticella’s to embellish the remaining pergola legs,' says Heather.

'The biggest consideration is choosing a variety that is relatively vigorous,' says Rob. 'Many (but not all) of the newer varieties are relatively compact and so are not suitable for pergolas. Most growers note a mature height on their plant labels so look for 9’ or more.'

Although it's tempting to start with the aesthetics, start with the practicalities. Knowing your US Hardiness zone, the conditions in your garden and when and how tall you would like the blooms, will narrow down the options.

This Rouge Cardinal Clematis from Plant Addicts has vibrant pinkish-reddish blooms, a vigorous growth habit and is suitable for zones 4-11.

Across the Zones

The majority of Clematis varieties can be grown across zones 4-9, but there are some that can tolerate hotter or colder zones, and there are still plenty of options for chillier regions.

'The earliest to bloom that are both hardy and provide adequate height would be the macropetalas,' says Rob. 'In zone 3 these can be coupled with group C which start to bloom in early summer or bloom into the fall.

'In zones 4-9, any of the groups B varieties such as Clematis Vancouver™ Blue Lion are suitable to pair with an early bloomer such as a macropetala or a late bloomer Group C such as Viticella Venosa aka Violette Stargazer.

'In warmer zones, the options are more plentiful. The Group A Montana varieties are a great choice for early color. They are available in pink or white and many are fragrant. Those can be paired with a mid season group B similar or group C as already suggested.'

This Nelly Moser Clematis from Nature Hill's is a Goup 2 (B), with pretty pink striped flowers that blooms on old and new wood, for an early spring flush and a later summer one.

Both Heather and Rob recommend choosing a range of flowering times. 'This way you'll have interest throughout the year,' says Heather. 'And don't be afraid of the pruning, the worst that can happen is the blooms will be late.'

'There are numerous colours and flower forms to add interest to a pergola, you can also plant two or three together.

Heather's top seller is Etoile Violette, (dark bluey-purple with pale yellow stamens), which reaches an average height of 9 feet. 'Clematis Purpurea Plena Elegans is a lovely double with dusky-magenta rosette shaped flowers,' she adds. 'Clematis Betty Corning is a personal favourite with the delicate pale bluey-mauvey nodding bell-shaped flowers and delicate perfume.'

This Jolly Good Clematis from Plant Addicts is another Group 3. It'll climb to around 8', with long-blooming purple flowers in zones 4-9.

For a fuller spread of flowers from top to bottom, add this Ithemba Clematis from Nature Hill's at the foot of your pergola for a pretty display of long-lasting candy stripe blooms around the posts. It'll reach around 3-4', thrives in zones 4-9 and likes six hours of sunlight per day.

The best Clematis for your pergola will depend on many factors, from how cold your zone gets in winter and how hot in the summer, to whether it's planted somewhere sunny or shady, damp or dry.

Just make sure the varieties you choose are appropriate for your zone, and good climbers, with summer (or staggered) flowering times – and your pergola will be a beautiful floral haven, perfect for hosting throughout the season, until fall.

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Ground cover plants do more than fill gaps in borders – many are highly effective at suppressing weeds, helping to keep your yard looking tidy with less effort. By forming a dense carpet of foliage, these low-growing plants cover bare soil, reducing opportunities for weed seeds to germinate and establish.

As well as providing attractive foliage and flowers, the best ground cover plants act as a living mulch, blocking light from reaching the soil and crowding out unwanted growth. While this green covering is attractive, these are some of the best plants to stop weeds, and so are more than just an aesthetic addition.

When planted correctly, they can create a thick, resilient layer that keeps maintenance to a minimum throughout the growing season. Here, I share seven of the best ground cover plants to stop weeds.

1. Lamb's Ear

If you are looking for a drought-tolerant ground cover to suppress weeds in sunny borders, gravel gardens or dry slopes, Lamb's ear (Stachys byzantina) is hard to beat.

This low-growing perennial forms a dense mat of soft, silver foliage that shades the soil and helps prevent weeds from establishing.

A member of the mint family, Lamiaceae, lamb's ear is native to Turkey, Armenia and Iran, making it well adapted to hot, dry conditions. It is often considered one of the best drought-tolerant ground cover plants for warm and southern regions, although it is surprisingly hardy and performs well across a wide range of climates.

'One of the best plants with silver foliage, lamb's ear is a great hardy species that can be grown in cooler regions, such as US hardiness zone 4, and warm regions, like US hardiness zone 9,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center.

'I recommend planting on mass, creating a ground cover layer to keep weeds away,' Bert adds. 'What's more, the silver foliage will compliment any flowering perennials in your yard, working well with pink and purple blooms.'

Lamb's ear is particularly effective at the front of sunny borders, in Mediterranean-style plantings, rock gardens and gravel landscapes, where its spreading habit can soften edges while keeping unwanted plants under control.

Lamb's Ear starter plants are available from Amazon.

2. Pachysandra

For evergreen ground cover plants, I do not think there is a better plant to grow than pachysandra. Growing best in US hardiness zone 5 and above, Japanese spurge, or Pachysandra terminalis, has an attractive serrated leaf that adds year-round greenery to any beds and borders.

I have grown pachysandra in many gardens across London, many of them in part-shade or full-shade. While this plant can be grown in sunny spots, I would advise against it, as the foliage can turn yellow in direct sunlight.

Pachysandra can be slow to establish, but within 1 to 2 years it will form an evergreen matting with a dense root network that makes life very difficult for opportunistic weeds.

While this plant is mostly known for its foliage, once established and happy, it can produce a bounty of small white flowers in spring. Pachysandra bare-root plants can be ordered online from Walmart.

3. Mind-Your-Own-Business

Another option for a ground cover plant to stop weeds is Soleirolia soleirolii, otherwise known as mind-your-own-business.

It works best when planted in between stepping stones or along the edge of pathways.

In cooler regions, mind-your-own-business will not survive frost and snow, so this plant is best suited to warmer and humid climates found in southern regions such as US hardiness zone 10. While this plant does prefer mild weather, it also grows best in shade, so using this plant in woodland gardens or darker spots in the yard is a good idea.

Mind-your-own-business plants are available to buy online from Amazon.

Shop Essential Weeding Kit

4. Pittosporum

There are over 200 species of pittosporums, commonly referred to as cheesewoods.

While the plant family is large, several pittosporums have a low-growing habit, making them suitable for growing as ground cover plants to stop weeds.

Pittosporum tobira 'Nanum', as can be seen in the image above. This variety is ideal to grow as ground cover, with a bushy and compact habit that will fill borders.

Pittosporum are tender plants, able to withstand temperatures no less than -5°C/23°F. For this reason, these evergreen shrubs are best suited to mild regions, growing best in US hardiness zone 8 and above.

5. Phlomis

For a drought-tolerant ground cover that can thrive in hot, sunny borders, Phlomis russeliana, commonly known as Turkish sage or Jerusalem sage, is a reliable choice. One of the best Mediterranean plants to grow, it is hardy to US hardiness zone 7 and, in mild climates, retains its foliage year-round.

When planted in groups, the heart-shaped leaves form a dense ground cover that helps suppress weeds, before sending up tall spikes of yellow flowers in spring. It works particularly well in gravel gardens, Mediterranean-style planting and dry perennial borders.

To encourage self-seeding and natural spread, avoid deadheading after flowering. While the fading seedheads can look untidy for a short period, leaving them in place will help your phlomis colony expand over time.

Phlomis seeds are available to buy online from Amazon.

6. Bugleweed

Bugleweed is a highly attractive but subtle plant that can add a purple or bronze twist to backyard borders. Growing no taller than a few inches off the ground, bugleweed is often thought of as one of the best walkable ground cover plants, useful for those gardeners seeking grass and lawn alternatives.

What's more, purple flower spikes emerge in spring, known to attract bees, butterflies and moths. It can be grown almost anywhere, from US hardiness zone 3 to zone 10.

Bugleweed, Ajuga reptans, grows best in part shade. I have found that morning sunshine with afternoon shade is the best combination for this woodland plant, a common sight across much of the UK.

I have grown this vigorous plant in gardens across England, and while it has been manageable here, it is considered invasive in parts of North America, so it is best to check with your local municipality before planting.

Bugleweed 'chocolate chip' starter plants are available to buy from Amazon.

7. Bunchberry Dogwood

For a shade-loving ground cover that can help keep weeds under control, bunchberry dogwood (Cornus canadensis) is an excellent option. Native to North America and hardy in US hardiness zone 3-6, this woodland plant gradually spreads to form a dense carpet that shades the soil and reduces opportunities for unwanted plants to establish.

how to grow bunchberry dogwood is relatively straightforward, as it prefers a shady spot and moisture-retentive soil. 'Bunchberry dogwoods will quickly form a relatively dense carpet,' says Dr Ross Bayton, Director at Heronswood Garden in Kingston, Washington.

'Gardeners should be advised that bunchberry dogwoods are deciduous plants, losing their foliage in the fall,' Ross adds. 'In spring, each low growing stem produces a large white-bracted flower, before red berries emerge later in the growing season.'

While not overly vigorous, bunchberry dogwood slowly expands through rhizomatous roots, thickening its weed-suppressing cover year after year. It is particularly useful beneath trees, along woodland paths and in shaded borders where grass and many other ground covers struggle.

What to Shop

Incorporating these weed-suppressing ground cover plants in your borders is a surefire way to keep unwanted plants out of the yard.

What's more, many of these options have striking foliage and flowers, adding color to those challenging areas under established shrubs and trees.

For more low-growing planting, see our guide on how to grow ground cover roses, for romantic blooms in your borders this year.

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Potatoes are among the simplest vegetables to grow, but a step often forgotten or neglected is earthing them up. It is as simple as regularly drawing soil, straw, or other materials around the plants to encourage more shoots and tubers to develop. Yes, it is a bit of extra maintenance, but it more than pays off come harvest time.

This simple task goes by several names; depending on where you grow your crops, it may be known as earthing, mounding, or hilling up potatoes. No matter what you call it, it is a really important part of growing potatoes, as it gives you a better yield. If you bypass hilling up potatoes, you end up with fewer potatoes to harvest and are more likely to have inedible green tubers.

Experienced growers are likely to earth up potatoes with regularity. Those new to it may look at others covering healthy potato plants with soil with confusion, or see this traditional step in the process as unnecessary. It is vital, though, and you should earth up potatoes in the ground, as well as those in raised beds, pots, buckets, or grow bags.

Why Growers Earth up Potatoes

Early in the potato growing calendar, the key jobs are chitting tubers and planting them at the right time in spring. After you plant potato tubers in the ground, you usually need to do very little until stems show through the soil – except watering the crop during an unusually dry spell.

Once they do show, hilling up offers several advantages, and you should do it with all types of potatoes.

Primarily, there is more space for side shoots, which means more tubers to harvest. When you earth up potatoes, you give the plant space to grow extra tubers from the buried parts of the stems, increasing your total yield come the end of the season.

As tubers develop, they can get pushed upwards and break through the soil surface. This is not ideal; you want tubers to develop in the dark. If the tubers are exposed to light, they turn green and inedible.

Green potatoes contain poisonous toxins and need to be discarded. By hilling up potatoes regularly, the tubers remain covered as they develop. Covering them prevents greening, so your tubers stay edible, and helps you grow bigger potatoes.

When you earth up potatoes, it also protects young shoots from late frosts and smothers weeds that may pop up around your crop. Potato crops can recover from light frosts, though it sets them back, but deep frosts can signal the end for the plants. If a frost is forecast, hilling up potatoes prevents unnecessary harm.

When to Earth up Potatoes

Don’t start hilling up potatoes too early. Just as placing the tubers too deep is a potato planting mistake, covering them with extra soil too early is too. It can delay the emergence of stems and create an unnecessarily thick layer that young stems may struggle to break through.

The right time is when the plants reach 6 to 8 inches tall. Whenever I see the stems showing that much from the soil in my vegetable garden, I know it is time to head out and earth up potatoes.

You should do the task every few weeks, each time once the plants poke that same amount out of the pile of earth. I usually earth up potatoes three times during the season, but, depending on their growth, some gardeners may do it a fourth.

If you ever see the ground heaving around plants or tubers starting to show through the soil, it is beneficial to mound around the plants to prevent issues.

How to Earth up Potatoes

The easiest way to earth up potatoes is to use the soil around the plants and drag it up around them. Draw the soil up and pile it around the stems, leaving just an inch or two of stems poking out the top of the mound, and gently pack the soil down around the plants.

I would say that the best tool for hilling up potatoes (and my go-to gardening tool for this task) is a garden hoe, more specifically a draw hoe, like this garden hoe at Lowe’s. This type of hoe has a metal head attached at a right angle to the handle, and it is ideal for breaking up and drawing soil around the plants.

Alternatively, I have used a garden spade (like this steel spade at Ace Hardware) before to scoop dirt from between the rows of potatoes and draw it around my potato plants. This tactic works, but you do need to be careful not to remove too much soil too close to the plants.

Or, if you don’t have a hoe or spade to hand, you could use a sturdy metal rake (ideally one like this steel bow rake, also at Ace Hardware) to drag soil into piles.

The Best Materials for Hilling up Potatoes

As mentioned above, using soil is the easiest and most obvious way to earth up potatoes. The resource is close by and easy to draw into place around plants. But there are other alternatives for hilling up potatoes that some gardeners may want to consider:

• Compost is one choice, such as shop-bought compost like this at premium organic compost at Walmart. I have used compost for this task when growing potatoes in containers (I go into detail about hilling up potatoes in pots below). It might end up costly to use compost for long rows of potatoes, so it may only be a realistic option for a few potato plants.
• Grass clippings can be used to earth up potatoes. If you ever wonder what to do with grass clippings after mowing, one potential is to use for hilling up potatoes. Let them dry for a day or two, and then apply them to your potatoes in thin layers, usually just an inch or two thick at a time.
• Straw is another natural material that gardeners can use for earthing up potatoes. It is important to use straw, not hay, as the latter can harbor unwanted grass and weed seeds. You can get a box of USA pine straw at Lowe's. Cover the stems as they appear and wet the straw to keep it in place. One advantage of hilling up potatoes with straw is that it makes harvesting potatoes easier than digging through lots of soil.

FAQs

How Do I Earth up Potatoes in Containers?

If you grow potatoes in a bucket, pot, or grow bag, there is an easy way to earth up potatoes. Start the process off by covering your planted potatoes with a few inches of soil. Once the stems have grown through the soil, cover them with more compost, and repeat this until the container is full. This regular process of hilling potatoes in containers helps you get the best yields.

Hilling up potatoes helps you have strong yields, but so does feeding the crop. For the best results, start fertilizing potatoes ahead of planting. A great way to do this is to add a slow-release all-purpose fertilizer to the site, such as this organic all-purpose granular plant food at Burpee. You can also feed plants once you start earthing up with a tomato feed high in phosphorus and potassium. Do this every two or three weeks until the month before you intend to harvest the crop.

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Growing your own food can be a hugely satisfying experience. Healthy and nutritious, pesticide-free food on your doorstep with zero food miles and no plastic packaging, the benefits are huge. But how can you ensure a continuous supply through the fall?

Having managed kitchen gardens and community food growing projects for over a decade, I share my tips and advice on the best vegetables to sow in June to make sure you have enough produce to last until autumn.

With the temperature and number of daylight hours increasing, June is a busy month for any gardener, filled with planting, watering and weeding. However, if you are wondering what you can plant in June, here are seven vegetables to sow this month that will supply you with a delicious bounty before the season is out.

Vegetables to sow in June

For many gardeners, the main sowing period is late spring, or possibly earlier, with the help of a greenhouse.

However, to ensure a continuous supply of fresh produce over the growing season, you can practice succession sowing or sowing the following crops in June, which will provide a harvest before winter arrives.

1. Dwarf French Beans

Prized for their flavorsome, tender pods, French beans are a staple of vegetable gardens. Similar to climbing or pole beans grown up a support, dwarf French beans, or bush beans as they are also called, mature and crop quickly, making them ideal for later sowings.

However, given their generally shorter harvesting period, successional sowing every 2-3 weeks will help guarantee a continuous supply.

Being small and compact, dwarf French beans are a great vegetable for growing in containers or any spare gaps in your vegetable patch. Preferring full sun and a fertile, moisture-retentive soil, sow 1-2 inches deep and allow 8-10 inches between plants to give them room to mature.

Furthermore, with impressive yields come harvest time, dwarf beans are perfect for freezing and stocking up for the winter. Maturing in as little as 55 days, you can purchase ‘Porch Pick’ bush bean seeds from Burpee.

2. Zucchini

Zucchini are easy to grow and, being prolific croppers, will supply a bountiful harvest for you to enjoy. Like summer squash, courgettes are tender and cannot tolerate frost, which makes June an ideal time to sow or plant them out, with the soil warmed up and any risk of frost past.

With green and golden colors and bush, climbing and trailing varieties available to grow, there is a zucchini to suit every growing space. Sow roughly half an inch deep where they are to grow or in a pot to plant out later. Courgettes thrive best in full sun and a moist and rich soil with lots of room to grow.

Producing dark green, tender fruits, you can purchase zucchini ‘Black Beauty’ seeds from True Leaf Market.

3. Corn

Although often sown under glass for a head start, June is a good time to sow corn. Requiring full sun and a fertile soil, corn generally takes 8-12 weeks to harvest from sowing, meaning a June crop should be ready to pick around August or September.

A perfect vegetable to plant in early June, sow direct where they are to grow 1 inch deep and in a grid pattern to aid pollination. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, protect young seedlings from slugs and snails and fertilize to increase yields.

Maturing in as little as 74 days, Corn Nirvana F1 hybrid is available to purchase from True Leaf Market.

4. Pumpkin

Maturing in 90-120 days, pumpkins require a long growing season to reach their impressive size. Commonly started off earlier in the year under cover to plant out after any risk of frost has passed, you can still sow pumpkins in early-to-mid June. However, to allow them time to ripen before winter arrives, selecting a fast-maturing variety is wise.

Versatile, sweet-tasting and with great carving potential, pumpkins grow best in rich, fertile soil where they receive 6-8 hours of sun per day.

Harvestable in around 90 days and ideal for making pumpkin pie, you can purchase Early Sweet Sugar Pie pumpkin seeds from Burpee.

5. Kohlrabi

Faster-growing than most other brassicas, kohlrabi can be ready to harvest in 50 to 70 days, depending on the variety and if successionally sown can provide an ongoing supply. Grown for its bulbous stems, kohlrabi is usually harvested when the stems reach 4 inches in diameter.

Perfect for sowing outdoors in June, sow half an inch deep and space around 6-8 inches apart. However, as a cool-season brassica, growing it in partial shade during the hottest months can help protect it from the worst of the summer heat.

For a striking variety, you can purchase Organic Purple Vienna kohl rabi seeds from Amazon.

6. Butternut Squash

Another vegetable to sow early in June is butternut squash. Loved for its sweet, nutty flavor and orange flesh, butternuts are commonly used for baking, roasting and making curries and soups. Furthermore, with a long shelf life, they are great for storing and enjoying over the fall and winter.

In cooler parts, butternut squash are often sown indoors in spring to give them a head start. However, in warmer climates with a long growing season, you can sow the seeds outdoors where they are to grow.

As trailing plants, often in excess of 12 feet or more, butternut squash can take up valuable growing space. If space is at a premium, they can also be grown vertically up a support.

That being said, once laden with multiple, heavy fruits, any supports need to be sturdy and secure to hold their weight. Options to support a butternut squash plant include the Outsunny steel garden arch and Concord composite vinyl trellis, both available from Amazon.

7. Lettuce

My last vegetable to sow in June is lettuce. Easy to grow and quick to harvest, lettuce is a perfect crop for any gaps you might have or for a container. Depending on where to live, lettuce can be grown outdoors from spring until the fall. However, for midsummer sowings when it is hottest, growing bolt-resistant varieties is recommended.

Having grown lettuce in every garden I have managed over my career, I have found summer crisp and romaine types to be among the best to grow in summer.

When sowing lettuce in June, choosing a site that receives some afternoon shade will help protect your lettuce crop from the harshest heat. You can purchase Heatwave Blend lettuce seeds from Burpee. Alternatively, and if you would rather plant out garden-ready lettuce plants, you can buy lettuce plug plants from a local garden center.

Depending on your local climate, you may think of June as the height of summer and believe the window for sowing flowering plants has closed.

Thankfully, this is not the case and there are many fast-growing annuals to sow in June that will provide you with bountiful blooms before the summer is out.

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June is a month of (almost) endless possibilities. The soil is warm, and there is lots of sunlight, a perfect combo of conditions that makes it an ideal time to get planting. For any gardeners eager to add to their space this month, the good news is that there is a long list of suitable ornamental and edible plants.

It is a time to plant summer bedding, flowering perennials, quick-growing annuals, vegetables for summer (and later) harvests, herbs, and even some fruit. Provided you aren’t in the midst of a heat wave, you can plant young plants into the soil or sow seeds directly into the ground, raised beds, pots, or hanging baskets.

If you worry you are late with your planting, or want to transform your backyard ideas for summer, time is still on your side. This guide to what to plant in June is ideal for any gardener who aspires for more flowers or edibles this year. Just remember to water anything you plant deeply, and check regularly to keep the soil moist around any new plantings or sowings.

Plant Speedy Annuals

There is a glorious range of fast-growing annual flowers you can plant in June to add vibrant color to flower beds, containers, and hanging baskets for the summer months.

These flowering annuals reliably germinate and can go from sowing to blooming in a matter of weeks – plus they can go on flowering for an age with deadheading.

Marigolds, zinnia, sunflowers, cosmos, nasturtiums, and celosia are among the best fast-growing annual flowers to sow in June.

You can sow the flowers directly into a sunny border, or start them off indoors (though nasturtiums and sunflowers dislike root disturbance, so will do better sown directly in their growing position).

If you do prefer indoor sowings, using biodegradable pots is a clever way to reduce root disturbance when transplanting seedlings, since you plant the pot along with the plant. You can get biodegradable fiber pots at Burpee.

Plant Summer Bedding

Bedding plants are a tried-and-trusted way for many gardeners to add color to their yard from summer right through until the frosts. You see many a suburban flower bed, container, or municipal space adored with such annuals or tender perennials year after year.

If you sow your summer bedding plants indoors in spring, or head to the garden center or nursery to stock up on trays of plants, June is the time to finally get them planted out into the garden.

Classic bedding plants like geraniums, begonias, petunias, lobelias, marigolds, coleus, and impatiens all offer bright colors and can be planted in full sun or part shade. Give the sun-loving plants at least six hours a day, though keep the likes of impatiens, begonias, and coleus in a shadier spot, especially in warmer US hardiness zones.

It is beneficial to amend the soil beforehand; trust me, the plants will appreciate it. Add compost or well-rotted manure to boost soil nutrients and help with drainage.

The most important care tip is to water plants regularly after planting to help them establish. Water deeply every few days, rather than shallow daily watering, as it helps the plants develop a strong root network.

Plant Perennials

In milder climates, there is still time to transform your flower beds and borders for not just this season, but for years to come, by planting flowering perennials in June.

There is a wide variety of perennials you can plant this month, coming in a plethora of colors and sizes. The list includes classic favorites like coneflower, shasta daisy, black-eyed Susan, astilbe, penstemon, milkweed, and hardy geraniums.

The secret to success with planting perennials in June is (like all on this list) to water them every few days and mulch around the plants with organic matter to retain moisture and protect the roots from temperature spikes.

If a heatwave is predicted after planting perennials, consider using shade cloth to provide temporary shade to avoid stress or scorching (you can get 80% shade cloth at Walmart). It is a quick, easy way to protect plants in a heatwave and stop your new plants from succumbing before you’ve got a chance to enjoy them.

Plant Heat-loving Vegetables

With warmer temperatures here and days only going to get hotter, June is the perfect time to plant warmth-loving crops into their final position in the vegetable garden. In hotter climates, this can be outdoors, but gardeners in milder areas may still plant them in an unheated greenhouse or polytunnel.

Whether you sowed seeds indoors and are transplanting seedlings, or bought young plants, it is the ideal month to plant the likes of tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, okra, corn, squash, and pumpkin plants. These plants all adore warmth and sun, and once the soil reaches 65-70°F, conditions are perfect to plant them out.

Water deeply after planting and keep a close eye on the soil moisture over the coming days and weeks, especially on hot days. A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, is a quick and easy way to check the levels. Watering plants in the morning gives the most time to soak up the moisture before temperatures rise later in the day.

Plant Fast-Growing Crops

If you live in cooler climates, there is time to get one more sowing of fast-growing vegetables to provide speedy harvests before the temperatures peak in midsummer.

The likes of radish, lettuce, beets, arugula, spinach, mizuna, and pak choi can be sown or planted out for cropping. As the plants tend to bolt and turn bitter in the summer heat, there may be an opportunity for one last quick crop before the window to sow closes until early fall.

In June and throughout the summer, you can also keep successively sowing crops like peas, carrots, and green onions. Doing so means you get continuous harvests, rather than gluts.

Plant Fall and Winter Vegetables

It may seem odd to be thinking of cold-season harvests, but planning reaps rewards in the kitchen garden.

June is the perfect time to plant fall and winter vegetables, such as Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, celeriac, and leeks. These plants are slow-growing and need a minimum of 10-12 weeks from planting to harvesting.

Planting in late spring or early summer will mean fall harvests, and the plants can remain in the ground for picking right through fall and winter.

You can sow seeds outdoors directly in late spring, but I find starting plants indoors and planting out yields the best results – and without the risk of slugs or snails nibbling seedlings.

Mulching around the crops after planting will keep the soil cool and retain moisture throughout the summer. Use organic matter for mulching vegetables, such as compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or bark chippings, like this pine bark mulch at Lowe's.

Plant Herbs and Medicinal Flowers

Whether you want to snip herbs for cooking and baking, to elevate summer drinks, or to harvest for their medicinal properties, June is a fantastic month to add seeds and young plants to your herb garden.

The warm conditions are suitable for tender herbs like basil, tarragon, parsley, dill, and coriander, and there is still time to add hardier herbs like mint, thyme, rosemary, and oregano into any bed or herb planter.

(Of course, as you’ll likely have heard countless times, always grow mint into a pot or restricted space to stop this thuggish plant from spreading.)

There are other medicinal plants you can add to your yard in June, too, including the likes of calendula, lavender, coneflower, and chamomile.

Plant Fruit

Finally, there are still opportunities to plant fruit in June. It is not the ideal time for planting fruit trees or bushes, but there are some fruits you can add to your yard in late spring or early summer.

For example, you can plant strawberries, with potted plants routinely seen for sale throughout the month, and you can start growing melons in June. See the range of live strawberry plants at Burpee.

When you grow cantaloupes or honeydew melons, the soil needs to be at least 70°F to plant out melon seedlings.

If you haven’t sown seeds, that window is shut, but look for young plants. Such as this live cantaloupe starter plant at Amazon.

June can feel like a very busy time in the gardening calendar. As well as planting, there is always weeding, watering, feeding, and pruning to do.

It can be hard to keep on top of any summer gardening checklist, but there are some June gardening mistakes to avoid. They include incorrect watering, not supporting your plants, ignoring weeds, and not feeding plants at this key time in the gardening calendar.

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Getting the spacing right with tomatoes is critical to having healthy plants and abundant harvests of tasty fruits. The distances do vary by type and variety, and it can get confusing, so let’s focus on how far apart to plant tomatoes.

Tomatoes come in different groups, and trained vining varieties can be planted closer together than bush tomatoes. But with any type, the danger of putting plants too close together is that they battle for water, nutrients, and sunlight, which ultimately affects yield, and they are at risk of disease.

To keep your crop healthy, plan the spacing carefully when growing tomatoes. I have grown many different tomato plants both in the ground and containers, planting them in greenhouses, polytunnels, and outdoors. While the temptation is always there to squeeze more plants into a space in search of extra fruits, you’ll get better harvests by spacing them properly. If you’ve ever wondered how far apart to plant tomatoes, here we look at the right spacings for different types and scenarios, and examine why space is so important.

Why Is Plant Spacing Crucial With Tomatoes?

Planting tomatoes so each one has sufficient room to develop ensures your plants have the perfect conditions to grow. Get it right, and every plant has the space it needs, gets enough water and nutrients, and rewards you with healthy growth and abundant fruits. However, get it wrong, and it can lead to several worrying issues.

Tomato plants produce deep root networks, with bigger varieties capable of roots reaching three feet long. Packing plants too close means lots of roots competing for water and essential nutrients in the soil.

Ultimately, it can lead to all plants going short. It can cause plants to remain small or stunted, make tomato leaves turn yellow, and leave plants lacking energy to produce and ripen fruit. You’ll end up with a disappointing harvest.

On top of fighting for water and nutrients, plants will also compete for light. Indeed, plants too close together can shade one another, depriving their neighbors of vital sunlight for photosynthesis. They’ll never be able to get to their full potential with a lack of sunlight.

And, when plants are stressed due to a lack of water, nutrients, and light, they are more vulnerable to tomato pests like aphids, tomato hornworms, spider mites, fruitworms, and more.

Not leaving enough space between tomato plants affects air circulation. A lack of air movement increases the likelihood of many tomato diseases, in particular fungal problems such as powdery mildew, leaf spot, and tomato blight.

Finally, you, as a gardener, can struggle when plants are packed too close together. It’ll make simple jobs like weeding, watering, feeding, and pruning tomato plants difficult. It ups the chances of you accidentally damaging one plant while trying to look after another.

Ideal Spacing for Different Types of Tomatoes

The best place to start explaining is to look at the different types of plants. The two main groups are indeterminate and determinate tomatoes, or vining and bush tomatoes, as they are often known. The different growth habits affect how far apart to plant tomatoes.

Below is a general guide, but it is recommended to check seed packets and plant descriptions for the recommended spacings for any tomato varieties.

How Far Apart to Plant Vining Tomatoes

Indeterminate (vining) tomatoes grow throughout the season and continue to produce fruit. They grow tall, up to 10 feet, depending on the variety, and their vertical growth habits do impact the spacing.

The ideal spacing for indeterminate varieties being trained to grow vertically is 18-24 inches apart.

A key part of successfully growing these types is providing support for the plants to grow upward. This can be stakes, trellises, or tomato cages (you can get a four-pack of sturdy, 64-inch tall tomato cages at Garden in Minutes).

If you stake a tomato plant or opt for growing tomatoes up a string, follow the spacing above. However, if the crops are in cages, they will need a bit more space, so plant them 30-36 inches apart.

Some gardeners do allow indeterminate tomatoes to sprawl on the ground. If you adopt this approach, increase the plant spacing to 4-5 feet apart.

How Far Apart to Plant Bush Tomatoes

Determinate tomatoes, also commonly known as bush tomatoes, are shorter than indeterminate varieties, usually reaching just 3-4 feet tall. These compact varieties fruit over a few weeks rather than throughout the season.

These bushier plants require more space than vertical-growing tomatoes. They still need support to keep them upright, especially when laden with fruit, and this is often with a tomato cage or small stake.

The ideal spacing for determinate varieties is 24-36 inches apart.

You can get dwarf bush tomato varieties that reach 12-18 inches tall, and they can be planted 10-12 inches apart as they don’t spread so far. One example of such a dwarf variety is this prolific Veranda Red Hybrid tomato at Burpee.

FAQs

How Far Apart Should You Plant Tomatoes in Containers?

You shouldn’t pack plants in tightly when you are growing tomatoes in pots, either. It is best to plant a single tomato plant per 12 to 18-inch pot or grow bag. It is the same when growing tomatoes in buckets; put one plant per container to avoid them competing.

The best tomatoes for growing in pots are dwarf varieties that can be highly productive, but in a smaller space, such as a patio, deck, or balcony, like this Patio Hybrid tomato at True Leaf Market.

How Far Apart Should You Plant Tomatoes in Raised Beds?

If your tomatoes are growing in raised beds, stick to the same spacings outlined above for determinate or indeterminate varieties. It ensures your plants have the right conditions in which to thrive.

How Far Apart Should You Plant Tomatoes in Square-Foot Gardening?

Square-foot gardening is an efficient way to grow vegetables in small spaces. It involves planting into square-foot sections, mapped out in a grid. Different vegetables are assigned a certain amount of space, and tomatoes are planted at one plant per square foot segment.

Do Tomatoes Like to Be Planted Deep?

Tomatoes have a nifty trick up their sleeve, and that is they can produce roots up their stem. For the strongest plants, you can plant tomatoes right up to the first set of leaves.

Remove those bottom leaves and plant to just above that level. They’ll produce new roots right up the buried section, anchoring them to the ground and enabling them to take in more water and nutrients.

A lack of moisture or sunlight caused by planting too closely can lead to a lack of tomatoes. However, there are other reasons your tomato plants may not be fruiting. Blossom drop is a symptom where the flowers fall before being pollinated.

Temperature is a common cause, both cold nighttime temperatures below 55°F or high temperature spikes of over 95°F, but fertilizing tomatoes with too much nitrogen can mean tomato plants with lots of foliage and stems but not many blooms or fruits.

It is advisable to fertilize tomatoes with a balanced fertilizer or bone meal (get organic bone meal at Burpee) after planting, then transition to a tomato feed high in phosphorus and potassium once the plants start flowering.

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Self-seeding plants are the quiet heroes of most cottage-style and naturalistic yards. Gently weaving through borders, enriching them with tactile foliage, height and blooms these perennials, grasses and bulbs create swathes of interest that continually shift through seasons, year-on-year.

By knowing which plants happily self-seed in your yard, you can enjoy a beautiful garden that needs little effort, other than occasionally pulling out over-keen seedlings that appear in inconvenient spots.

One of the advantages of encouraging these self-seeding flowers and grasses is that nature becomes the designer, with seeds only surviving where conditions allow and therefore resulting in strong, healthy plants. We take a look at some of the lesser known varieties that will pep up your yard with their easy-going charm.

Columbine

One of the most charming flowers of the cottage garden has to be the spring flowering Aquilegia vulgaris. Also known as columbine, this beauty, with it's bell-like blooms, effortlessly fills gaps in borders and pathways thanks to its generous self-seeding habit.

'Columbine forms delicate, nodding flowers above soft mounds of lacy foliage from April to June,' says plant expert Elin Harryson. 'The blooms change color and shape due to cross-pollination, producing unique, often unpredictable hybrid flowers.

'Its ability to self-seed into small openings, woodland edges, and between other perennials helps gardens feel fuller and more established without appearing overly crowded.'

Thriving in damp areas of dappled shade in USDA Hardiness zones 3-9, this fairy garden plant is happy in most soil types.

Nature Hills have an inspiring selection of columbine plants including the Winky Purple and White Columbine.

Pink Muhly Grass

Pink Muhly Grass is densely tufted, fast-growing grass, producing a mass of slender green blades throughout summer that are topped with frothy pink panicles in fall, that last through winter. One of the best ornamental grasses for winter interest, this laid back beauty mingles gracefully with other grasses and other full sun ground cover plants.

‘Muhlenbergia capillaris is an excellent choice for a self-seeding grass,’ says Plant Expert Nikki Bruner. ‘It brings cloud-like pink plumes in the fall and gently re-seeds without being aggressive. Muhly Grass is low maintenance and drought tolerant, making it perfect for filling space and adding texture.’

Reaching heights of 3ft 3in (1m) with a spread of 1ft 8in (50cm), this sun-loving grass will thread its way through a planted border via its tendency to self-seed and its network of underground rhizomes.

Find live Pink Muhly Grass plants at Walmart.

Spangle Grass

Spangle Grass, also known as Chasmanthium latifolium and North American Wild Oats, is a designer favorite, with its bamboo-like leaves and distinctive, tan-colored flat seedheads cascading from 3ft 3in (1m) tall arching stems in late summer.

These ornamental grasses take on a purplish hue in fall before dying back in winter.

A deciduous grass that quickly fills planting gaps, spangle grass is a larval host plant for butterflies as well as source of food for small mammals and birds.

‘Chasmanthium latifolium is a wonderful ornamental grass for seaside gardens and semi-shade gardens,’ says landscape architect, Stacilyn Feldman. ‘It will spread quickly and produces lovely drooping, poetic seed heads that whisper in the wind.’

Tolerant of both full sun and part shade, this native plant prefers damp to moist conditions and thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9.

Find container grown Chasmanthium latifolium at Nature Hills.

Black Eyed Susan

Instantly recognised for their sunshine daisy-like blooms with striking brown-black centre, Black eyed Susan or Rudbeckia hirta is a short-lived perennial native to the Mid west and central US states. Often grown as an annual, these stout and bristly plants are drought tolerant once established.

'Black eyed Susans are another good trad garden flower to include in your planting that readily self seeds,' Continues Nikki. 'They are good for naturalized areas and the pollinators love them!'

Sun loving and growing up to 12-39 inches (30-100cm) tall, these plants are ideal for filling containers and weaving through cottage and prairie style borders. Some of the best rudbeckias include Rudbeckia Goldsturm. Live plants available from Perfect Plants.

Golden Alexander

If you are looking for a tall and architectural border-filling perennial that needs next to no effort, consider Zizia aurea, or golden Alexander. Growing up to 3 feet (91cm) high, these vibrant blooms have a touch of the wild-side about them, forming clouds of tiny acid-yellow florets on top of glossy pinnate leaves.

'Golden Alexander produces clusters of bright golden-yellow flowers above deep green foliage from April to June, bringing a meadow-like feel to the garden early in the season,' explains Elin.

'Its ability to self-seed naturally into open spaces and along garden edges helps soften planting transitions and create a fuller, more established landscape over time. Ideal for Zones 3 - 8 in full sun to part shade with average to moist, well-drained soil.'

These meadow flowers are an essential choice for wildflower garden ideas and the latest mosaic planting trend.

Find Golden Alexander seeds at Amazon.

Blue Fescue

Clump forming, undemanding and a year-round dazzler there's everything to love about ornamental grass Festuca glauca. With it's fine silver-blue foliage and gentle self-seeding habit, this sun loving perennial provides a beautiful fast-growing contrast to other cottage, prairie and coastal style plantings.

Suited to growing in USDA Hardiness zones 4-8, this grass will flower most prolifically in sandy and loamy soil in direct sun. If flowers are allowed to fully ripen, seedlings will form around the parent plant.

Keep the grassy clumps in good shape with the occasional comb through to remove dead foliage. Plants can also benefit from lifting and division every two or three years. The serrated edge of a Hori Hori Garden Knife, such as this from Lowe's, makes this a simple task.

Find live Blue Fescue plants at Walmart.

If you've fallen for these easy-going, self-seeding heroes, make sure you discover more minimal effort, gardening tricks such as the window box plants that thrive on neglect and native plants for a drought-tolerant pollinator garden.

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At the RHS Chelsea Flower Show this week, there was one plant that instantly captured my curiosity: the blue kangaroo paw (or Anigozanthos 'Masquerade'). Perhaps the rarest plant to spot at the show this year, it intrigues with teal-blue tubular blooms.

Located on the Journey Beyond the Tracks: From Adelaide to Perth Garden, this exotic beauty sits low to the ground. It's a close cousin of the standard red kangaroo paw (which is available as starter plants on Amazon), so it's incredibly resilient, thrives in the hottest climes, and even bounces back from wildfires.

For those living in USDA zones 9-11, it's a striking perennial to consider, or you can opt to grow it as a colorful annual in cooler climes. Plus, it's nectar-rich and a great hummingbird magnet in summer.

What is Blue Kangaroo Paw?

The blue kangaroo paw originates from Western Australia, though it doesn't occur naturally. Rather, 'Masquerade' is a hybrid of the standard kangaroo paw and is considered the first true blue flower kangaroo paw to ever exist.

It blooms from late spring through summer, complemented by its blue-green sword-shaped foliage.

On Max Parker-Smith's RHS Chelsea garden, your eyes are drawn to its bright color amidst the arid and earth-toned growing environment. It makes for a vibrant focal point in border planting.

It's clump-forming and compact in height, typically reaching around 20" tall, just like other varieties such as the burgundy kangaroo paw (which is available on Amazon).

Blue kangaroo paw is a remarkably drought-tolerant plant and is a great pick for fire-resistant plants, thanks to its fleshy, moisture-retentive stems and the fact its rhizomes are protected underground. After wildfire damage, it can regenerate with fresh new growth quickly.

Over time, it spreads through rhizomes, though this is slow, controlled, and non-aggressive.

How to Grow Blue Kangaroo Paw

The blue kangaroo paw can be grown across USDA zones 9-11 as a hardy perennial. In cooler regions (zones 2-8), some gardeners grow it as an annual, or you can bring it inside to overwinter.

Due its bright nectar-rich tubular blooms, it's proven to be effective at attracting hummingbirds when grown in the US.

Here are some top care tips if you're thinking about adding the blue kangaroo paw (or indeed other varieties, like this pink kangaroo paw plant on Amazon) to your garden:

• Soil: This plant thrives in sandy, low-nutrient soil types, though it does require good drainage to prevent root and rhizome rot. If your garden soil is heavy and doesn't drain well, it's best to grow blue kangaroo paw in raised beds and containers. You can also mix in horticultural perlite (available at Lowe's) to improve drainage further.
• Light: To maintain that unique blue hue, full sun is essential for blue kangaroo paw. It needs 6-8 hours of direct sun daily to produce stronger stems and to flower more prolifically. In lower light, the blooms and foliage may become paler.
• Water: During its first growing season, you should water this plant regularly to help it establish. It then becomes quite drought-tolerant, so you can allow it to dry out between watering. This is especially important to stop root and crown rot, though you should water deeply weekly during hot spells in summer.
• Fertilizing: Blue kangaroo paw is a light feeder, so an all-purpose feed can be damaging. Instead, you should look for a fertilizer low in phosphorus which is suited to Australian plants, supporting healthy growth without being overpowering. This sulfate of potash feed from Amazon is a good option. You should apply it in early spring, just as the growing season begins.
• Deadheading: You can deadhead blue kangaroo paw as blooms fade to encourage another flush of flowers. When doing this, use sharp pruning tools (like these gardening snips from Lowe's) to cut at the base of the flower stems.
• Overwintering: If you live in cooler zones, it is possible to grow blue kangaroo paw as an annual or you can bring it indoors to protect it from frost during winter. Maintain bright light wherever you move it too. A conservatory and a greenhouse are excellent locations for this.

Growing the likes of blue kangaroo paw is one of the best ways to boost garden resilience in extreme weather. You can also incorporate methods to reduce water run-off in the yard, including using a French drain.

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Low-effort cottage garden plants are the secret to achieving that romantic, billowing border look without weekends lost to staking, dividing, and digging out thugs. The best varieties hold their shape through summer storms, shrug off drought, return reliably year after year, and most importantly, stay exactly where you put them.

For busy gardeners, the balance is everything. Traditional cottage classics like lupins, hollyhocks and delphiniums may be beautiful, but they can also be short-lived, flop after rain, or take over borders once established.

We asked three garden designers and nursery experts to share the low-effort cottage garden plants they return to time and time again. Those dependable performers that won't collapse, spread out of control, or demand constant attention. Whether you're refining an existing space, or looking for brand new cottage garden ideas, these long-flowering perennials and easy-care shrubs bring the softness and romance of the style without the usual upkeep.

Best Low-Effort Cottage Garden Plants

While there's no shortage of beautiful cottage garden plants, there are specific varieties chosen for their structure, resilience, and ability to thrive without constant intervention.

They cover spring through fall, mix shrubs with perennials and bulbs, and suit a wide range of US hardiness zones. Most are drought-tolerant once established and ask very little beyond a good first-season of watering.

1. Panicle Hydrangea 'Bobo'

If you want cottage garden romance without the rust, black spot and demanding pruning schedule that often comes with roses, compact panicle hydrangea Bobo is an ideal option. Growing to around 4ft tall, it flowers for months, with fluffy white blooms that gradually soften to pink.

'Bobo hydrangea is my go-to for fluffy romance that blooms from spring to fall,' says Caroline Maurer, garden designer and owner of Figment Cottage Gardens. 'It's a great rose alternative for a similar effect.

'The panicle flower clusters are a bright white all season and the shrub doesn’t wilt, requires little water, resists disease and turns a lovely pink in fall. It’s also bunny and deer resistant too, which can't be said for many hydrangeas.'

Hardy in zones 3-9, Bobo is one of the easiest flowering shrubs you can grow. Pruning bobo hydrangeas is minimal too - a light cut back in spring is all it needs.

Where to buy: Buy Bobo Panicle Hydrangea from Nature Hills.

2. Baptisia (False Indigo)

A favorite among cottage garden designers for its shrub-like structure and deep blue-purple spring flower spikes, baptisia is also one of the most underrated plants.

Anna Ohler, owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery says baptisia - or False Indigo as it's also known - is one of the best structural plants for a cottage garden. 'It emerges slowly in spring, but once mature it forms a beautiful shrub-like mound that rarely flops. Deep roots make it extremely drought tolerant and long-lived. No staking, minimal pests, and it handles weather extremes incredibly well.'

The foliage also earns its keep long after flowering, and it's one of Caroline's favorites. 'Baptisia makes the most beautiful bouquet filler with its foliage,' she says. 'It’s also drought tolerant once established and rabbit and deer resistant. I add it to most gardens.'

Hardy in zones 3-9, baptisia thrives in full sun and well-drained soil.

It's worth planting it where you want it to stay from the start, as Laura Janney of The Inspired Garden points out that baptisia develops a deep taproot. 'Once planted it is very difficult to move because of its taproot system. It can also get very large and requires a hoop if you don’t want the long stems to flop over,' she warns.

Where to buy: This Twilight Prairieblues Baptisia Plant from Burpee is blanketed with hundreds of bicolor blooms.

3. Geum

For early-season color when most of the border is just waking up, geum is hard to beat. Its airy stems carry soft orange, coral and yellow blooms from May onwards, bridging the gap between spring bulbs and summer perennials.

'Geum is known for its stunning soft orange blooms,' says Laura. 'Its airy blossoms effortlessly evoke a romantic feel in any garden setting. Emerging in early to mid-May when few other perennials are in bloom.'

Beyond the flowers, geums earn their place for their easy-going nature. Laura points out they're hardy, deer‑resistant, pest resistant, require no staking and tolerate a range of soil conditions with very little maintenance.

Hardy in zones 5-9, geums thrive in full sun to part-shade. If you're learning how to grow geums, the main thing to know is they dislike sitting in overly wet soil through winter. Deadheading will extend the flower season, but it's not essential.

Geums aren't heavy feeders, but benefit from a slow-release fertilizer applied in spring. Enriching plant food, like this slow-release fertilizer is available at Amazon, can help support healthy growth and flowering.

Where to buy: You can purchase Tempo Orange Geum from Nature Hills, which blooms in vibrant citrus tones.

4. Amsonia (Bluestar)

A genuine hidden gem, and one our experts wish more gardeners knew about. Amsonia produces delicate blue star-shaped flowers in late spring, then earns its keep all summer with fine, willowy foliage that turns gold in fall, making it one of the best fall flowering perennials.

'Amsonia is criminally underused," believes Anna. "It has soft blue spring flowers, fine-textured foliage that looks attractive all season, incredible golden fall color, and almost no maintenance requirements. It behaves beautifully in mixed borders.'

Caroline recommends choosing a variety to suit your space. 'I love 'Butterscotch' for its fall interest and pretty blue flower clusters in spring. There are a variety of sizes, from 'Storm Cloud' at a large 4’x4’, to dwarf varieties that are closer to 2’x2.'

For a fine-textured native option, Arkansas blue star is the species with the most show-stopping fall color.

Once established, amsonia is drought-resistant, pest resistant and rarely needs dividing; it's the kind of low-maintenance plant that quietly gets on with its job.

Where to buy: You can buy amsonia varieties, including Starstruck Blue Star from Nature Hills.

5. Echinacea (Coneflower)

A cottage garden staple, with cast-iron resilience. Native to the prairies of North America, echinacea, or coneflowers, handle heat, drought and poor soil with ease, while the dried seed heads feed goldfinches and other garden birds through winter and add structure long after the flower fades.

'Coneflowers are another great cottage garden option when you need plants that work well with heat," says Laura. "We love using coneflowers with double blooms, like 'Raspberry Truffle' to lend a romantic touch. A prolific bloomer, can handle poor soil and the dried seed heads give beautiful winter interest.'

Anna favors the straight species over heavily-bred cultivars. 'Native coneflowers tend to be tougher and longer-lived than many heavily bred cultivars,' she says. 'Strong stems, excellent drought tolerance, reliable re-blooming, and seed heads that feed birds through winter.'

Hardy in zones 3-9, coneflowers thrive in full sun and need very little once established.

Leave the seed heads standing through winter for wildlife, and for the structural beauty of frost-covered stems in January.

Where to buy: There's no shortage of coneflower varieties to elevate your cottage garden, including Raspberry Truffle and Cheyenne Spirit, both available from Nature Hills.

6. Agastache (Hummingbird Mint)

This is the plant that quietly does everything. Also known as hummingbird mint, agastache produces tall blue-purple flower spikes from summer through to the first frost, alongside aromatic foliage that smells faintly of root beer when brushed.

'Blue Fortune' agastache is one of Caroline's favorite perennial fillers. 'It’s tall, deer resistant, edible, and the loveliest blue spike that mixes beautifully with coneflower, daisies, dahlias, thistle, hydrangea, roses, and other fan and mound-shaped plants.'

It also doesn’t flop or need staking, and is drought resistant, making it one of the best low-maintenance cottage garden plants.

Where to buy: Agastache Blue Fortune plants are available to buy from Amazon.

7. Alliums

Few flowers deliver more impact for less effort than alliums. They're particularly low-effort as you can plant alliums in fall, forget about them and by late-spring you'll be rewarded with striking globe-shaped flowers floating above the border in shades of purple, white and silver.

'Alliums are by far one of the lowest maintenance and most whimsical cottage garden flowers,' says Caroline. 'From giant alliums you plant as bulbs in fall to shorter border varieties like 'Millenium', 'Medusa', and 'Bubble Bath', they form clumps non invasively, serve as pollinator magnets, and can be dried for everlasting arrangements.'

They're also highly deer and rabbit resistant.

Hardy in zones 4-9, they need full sun to part-sun and well-drained soil.

Where to buy: You can pick up different varieties, such as Millenium Allium Flower Root from Walmart.

Shop Cottage Garden Planting Essentials

The key to low-effort cottage garden plants is to choose flowers that earn their place every season. Add these seven into your cottage garden planning and before long you'll have a soft, romantic border that returns reliably each spring with very little intervention - leaving you more time to enjoy the season rather than spend it on upkeep.

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You'll likely be familiar with the growing habits of the humble cucumber, but if you want to bring some intrigue to your yard this year, there's one species that you need to try. Master gardener Niki Jabbour recently took to Instagram to share a peek into her own vegetable patch, and you'll notice a surprising addition: the dragon's egg cucumber.

As the name suggests, dragon's egg cucumbers yield round, pale green fruits that are egg-shaped rather than cylindrical. They are early-maturing, prolific growers, and the cucumbers themselves are renowned for their mild, faintly sweet taste.

So, while you might know how to grow cucumbers, you may be less acquainted with this intriguing variety – but you'll find plenty of tips on how to grow a dragon's egg cucumber below. (And if you're tempted, you can find dragon's egg cucumber seeds at Etsy.)

How to Grow a Dragon's Egg Cucumber, According to Niki Jabbour

In an Instagram video posted in early May, Niki Jabbour offered a glimpse into her thriving vegetable garden – and the dragon's egg cucumber takes center stage.

'Here's a fun veggie to grow: dragon's egg cucumber,' she writes in the caption. 'The unique fruits are cream to pale green, perfectly oval, and smooth skinned.'

Dragon's egg cucumbers also claim a spot in Niki's guide to heirloom seeds, which she shared on her blog, Savvy Gardening.

'In my own vegetable garden, many of our favorite crops are heirloom varieties,' she explains. 'There are many vegetables with varieties having unusual hues and/or shapes, such as Dragon’s Egg cucumber.'

Niki's biggest tip? 'As you select seeds to grow, don’t forget to pay attention to information like days to maturity, plant size, and disease resistance,' she advises.

When to Plant Dragon's Egg Cucumbers

Knowing when to plant cucumber seeds is key – and just like more common varieties, dragon's egg cucumbers should be planted once the risk of frost has passed. Sow the seeds indoors or in a greenhouse, then transplant in warm weather (after hardening off the seedlings for a few days).

You can grow these cucumbers in pots in small spaces, if you like; plus, dragon's egg cucumbers can also be grown vertically, for a more striking display in your yard.

Make sure to use rich, well-draining soil (like Burpee's organic potting mix) and position your cucumbers in full sun. Keep the soil consistently moist, watering little but often; you can use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart, to prevent any second-guessing.

When to Harvest the Fruit

As Niki notes, dragon's egg cucumbers are an early-maturing heirloom species that you can harvest after just a few months.

'They form long vines that start to yield crispy cukes just 60 days from seeding,' she writes. 'Pick the cucumbers when they’re 3 to 4 inches long and pick often to promote the largest harvest.'

What to Shop

Want to get the most out of your vegetable patch this year? Check out our guide to cucumber companion planting, or read up on the best vegetables to choose to get the biggest yields.

Cooking and eating outdoors are among the joys of summer. Whether it is enjoying a BBQ or homemade pizza, I always look forward to months of hosting friends and family in the garden. But what can you plant now that you can enjoy over the summer?

From sowing and planting to weeding and watering, May is always a busy time in the garden. However, with just a few plants in a container or two, you can have an abundance of fresh produce, from aromatic herbs to succulent vegetables, in just a few weeks.

With the soil warming up and the risk of frost more or less past, May is the perfect time for planting, ready for the season ahead. I have always liked growing my own produce, and with over a decade of professional kitchen gardening experience, here are my top five edibles to plant in May.

Edibles to plant in May

You can grow the following edibles in just a couple of containers or planters, which means even those with limited outside space can still enjoy their own home-grown produce this summer. From delicious Greek basil to vibrant, peppery nasturtiums, there is something for everyone, and they can be used in many ways.

1. Greek Basil

Having been introduced to Greek basil (Ocimum basilicum var. minimum) several years ago by a chef friend, I have grown it ever since, and it has become one of my favorite go-to herbs for summer entertaining.

An easy-to-grow annual, Greek basil is prized for its strongly flavored, small leaves and is perfect for snipping and adding to a summer salad or garnishing a grilled steak.

Unlike growing sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum), Greek basil remains small and compact, reaching a final size of just 8-10 inches, making it ideal for a container. A tender herb, it thrives in full sun and germinates readily from seed.

Less commonly grown than sweet basil, you can purchase Greek basil seeds from Burpee.

2. Golden Zucchini

Widely grown for their versatile fruits, zucchini are summer squash that not only taste delicious but also look attractive. Characteristically known for their green color, why not try a golden variety for something different?

Forming a neat bushy habit, golden zucchini look great when grown in a large planter with their contrasting yellow fruit and ornate dark green foliage. Perfect for roasting and steaming, zucchini are ideal for barbecuing on a summer’s day and adding to a summer salad or accompanying a main.

Zucchini are known to be prolific, especially when grown in full sun and on consistently moist soil, and will keep producing when picked regularly. Harvestable in as little as 50-60 days, if sown now, you could be appreciating the fruits of these Golden zucchini seeds, available from Amazon, in just a few weeks.

As the largest plant here, you may want to give a zucchini its own generous container to support its vigorous growth and fruiting.

3. Salad Leaves

As a kitchen gardener, I love to be able to quickly snip a few salad leaves to add to a plate. Although growing lettuce and other salads can be done year-round under glass, they thrive over the summer months and are easy to grow from seed and plug plants.

Furthermore, being available in almost every shade of green and red, salad leaves can look highly ornamental and brighten up any container. Whether you choose to grow butterhead, crisphead, cos, or cut-and-come-again varieties, lettuce is quick to germinate and grow, and when succession sown can provide you with tasty leaves for months on end.

With shallow roots, you can grow salad leaves in almost any container, from window boxes to hanging baskets, and they can be thinly sown in any gaps you might have.

For a lettuce that is not only delicious but stunning as well, why not try the red and green bicolored Yugoslavian red lettuce available from Burpee?

4. Mint

Summer would not be the same without mint in all its various guises. Whether to jazz up a refreshing summer salad, garnish a dessert, or flavor a pasta dish, mint has a remarkable array of culinary uses and is also perfect for adding to a summer drink or mojito for those upcoming parties.

With mint varieties including pineapple, Moroccan, and orange, you are not solely limited to the classic spearmint or peppermint. Suitable for growing outdoors or indoors, you will want to plant mint in its own pot to prevent it from spreading and taking over its neighbors or your borders.

Plant containers are now available in an overwhelming range of colors, materials, and shapes. When choosing a container for these edibles to plant in May, it is wise to ensure your plants have room to grow and will not look top-heavy when fully grown. If you plan to grow purely over the summer months, frost-hardy materials are not strictly necessary, but if you think you might leave them outdoors over the winter, you will either need to protect them or choose frost-proof options.

For those in colder areas, this Crescent Garden brunello pot in terracotta, available from Amazon, will be admired for its rustic style and still be able to withstand low temperatures.

5. Nasturtium

Well-known for their hot, peppery flavor and use as a companion plant, nasturtiums are ideal for a kitchen garden or a pot on a patio. With both their leaves and flowers edible, nasturtiums are a great addition to a salad bowl or to garnish a pizza straight out of your outdoor pizza oven.

With large, easy-to-handle seeds and a solid germination rate, I often sow nasturtiums with the children I run gardening sessions for at a community garden. Available in compact, trailing, and climbing forms in various colors, there is a wide array of nasturtium varieties to choose from.

Where space is at a premium, you could choose to grow the bush-shaped heritage Nasturtium ‘Empress of India’, available from True Leaf Market, whose crimson-scarlet flowers contrast strongly against its green foliage.

As a fast-growing annual, May is perfect for sowing nasturtiums, as even if planted in June, they will still flower later that season. Once the risk of frost has passed, sow directly into a freshly filled planter, or start undercover and plant out when robust enough to handle slug attacks.

If you are looking at certain gaps in your borders and wondering if you still have time to sow some flowering annuals to bloom this summer, the answer is most definitely yes. From the whimsical elegance of white umbellifers to the vivid hues of vibrant zinnias, there are many fast-growing flowers to sow in May, which will be blooming in a matter of weeks.

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Herbaceous perennials fill borders with flowers, form, and textures, and can do so for many years. To keep them performing at their best season after season, you should divide them every few years – and May offers a final chance to divide summer-flowering perennials.

Dividing perennials is a quick, simple task for spring. The conditions are ideal, with the soil warm and moist, and the plants are full of energy at the start of the growing season. Splitting perennials early in May gives them time to establish before the summer temperatures arrive. Dividing plants not only keeps clumps vigorous, but is a sustainable task that gives you new plants for free, rather than spending money on new ones to fill your borders with blooms.

I helped to maintain large flower beds and borders for many years while working in historic gardens as a professional gardener. Each spring, we lifted and divided some of our best perennials to fill spaces in beds and keep each plant healthy. There are many plants you can divide this month, but here is a selection of perennials to divide in May to add to your spring gardening checklist.

1. Hostas

Hostas are really easy to grow and make stunning ornamental additions to any flower bed, with their dramatic foliage coming in a range of colors and sizes.

As clumps get congested over time, the plant’s performance can suffer. And if you want to grow hostas that are strong enough to hold out against slug attacks, your clumps need to be as healthy and vigorous as possible.

Thankfully, hostas are easy perennials to divide, and they respond well to this operation. Divide hostas every four or five years, either in the spring or early fall – though I do prefer it as a springtime task.

Once they are starting to grow and you can see buds appearing, lift the clump, remove lots of the soil, and divide it with a spade or sharp knife (like this garden knife from Amazon).

Plant the hostas into your borders as quickly as possible, and water them in well.

2. Yarrow

Yarrow (Achillea) is a long-flowering perennial with flat-topped blooms made up of lots of little flower heads. The flowers come in a range colors and are nectar-rich, which makes them great plants for pollinators.

When you grow yarrow in your flower beds, clumps do spread. This can mean they end up with dead centers, get congested, or spread further than you want. The best way to prevent this issue is to divide clumps every 3-5 years.

Do this in spring, just as new growth is appearing. Use a sharp spade to dig around the clump and lift it from the soil. Shake off the excess soil, and cut the root ball into sections. Depending on the size of the clump, you can get up to 4-6 different sections – just ensure that any division has a decent amount of roots and shoots.

Plant the new sections into gaps in your borders, or into containers if they are smaller divisions. Water the new plants deeply to help them establish in their new home.

3. Daylilies

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are showy perennial plants. Despite their name, which comes from the fact that individual flowers last just a single day, clumps can continually produce lots of vivid blooms for around a month or more.

You can grow daylilies of many colors or patterns, and the plants will form large clumps over time. As the clumps enlarge, it causes congestion, leading to weaker growth and fewer blooms. For healthy clumps and the best flowers, it is advisable to divide daylilies every four or five years.

Springtime is an opportune moment to divide the clumps, and then you can plant daylilies into your borders for future displays. However, it is worth remembering that any new clumps may take one or two years to start blooming.

Daylilies do produce fibrous roots. This means you may need to deal with a mass of these roots if you haven’t divided them for a few years.

A sharp knife will be your best friend here; use it to slice through the clumps. Cut them into sections with established stems and roots, and replant with the crown an inch below the soil surface.

4. Asters

Asters come to the fore later in the season, blooming in late summer and fall. As fall-blooming plants, the ideal window to split these perennials is in spring, when new growth is appearing for the season ahead.

Over time, clumps of asters can get leggy, and they are another perennial that suffers from dieback in the center of the plant as it spreads outwards. As this central portion of the plant is exhausted, the best plan of action is to divide your asters every 3-4 years and replant divisions of the vigorous outer sections of the clump.

To divide any aster varieties, carefully lift the clump and use a spade, sharp knife, or two garden forks placed back-to-back in the center to split it into new sections.

Remove any older, unproductive sections. Keep hold of new pieces that have several healthy shoots and roots, and replant them immediately into gaps in your borders.

Keep a close eye on when to water plants, as you need to keep the soil consistently moist to stop your asters from suffering from transplant shock and help them bed in.

5. Phlox

Phlox includes a huge range of different plant species and forms. In this scenario, the focus is on perennial border phlox, such as those tall varieties of Phlox paniculata that stand out in borders with their domed flower heads atop sturdy stems.

These stalwarts of cottage garden ideas do become less vigorous over the years. Congestion and competition mean fewer flowers, and the clump can get bare in the center. It is advisable to divide phlox every 3-4 years to keep your plants healthy and productive for the best blooms come summer.

It is beneficial to water plants ahead of dividing to keep the roots hydrated. Lift the clump and divide it into sections that have a good selection of roots and at least three shoots. These can be replanted into borders.

There is a good chance that the new clumps will flower that season. To give them the best chance, feed them with a vitamin solution such as Superthrive, available on Amazon. It can help the plants develop roots and recover from dividing.

6. Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susans bring warming colors to borders in summer and early fall, with their daisy-like flowers in shades of orange and red standing out against the dark center that gives them their name.

When you grow black-eyed Susan, the plants do spread and self-seed around a border. It can lead to large clumps and congestions, with fewer or smaller flowers as a result.

Divide plants every 3-4 years in the spring to reinvigorate clumps and stop the spread, and get new plants to fill in spaces in your flower beds.

Like others on this list, dig up the clump once it starts growing and concentrate on splitting the younger, outer, more productive part of the plant into new, smaller sections.

Plant the black-eyed Susans right away elsewhere in your borders, at the same depth they were planted.

7. Ornamental Grasses

When you grow ornamental grasses among your flowering perennials, they add height, texture, and movement to borders.

Just like other plants, a substantial clump can lose vigor over the years as it spreads. Grasses can also end up with bare centers. To avoid this happening to your grasses, aim to divide them every few years.

The grasses want to be actively growing when divided. Cool-climate grasses start growing in early spring, while warm-season grasses start later but should be waking up in time for dividing in May. This month can be an ideal time for warm-season types, like miscanthus, pennisetum, and panicum.

Smaller ornamental grasses may be pulled apart by hand, but, at the other end of the scale, expect larger specimens to have tough roots to cut through.

A sharp knife or hori-hori may be needed in those cases, and you can get a Japanese hori-hori knife at Amazon.

Shop Tools for Dividing Perennials

Another simple way to fill any gaps in your borders is to sow speedy annual flowers this month. This guide to fast-growing flowers to sow in May includes seven fantastic annuals that can fill your beds with vibrant color come summer.

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Pollinators play a crucial role in any garden, and their work moving pollen and producing fruits, vegetables, and seeds cannot be undervalued. May is a great time to get lots of new pollinator-friendly plants for your garden for free by taking cuttings of existing ones.

Spring is a perfect opportunity to take softwood cuttings of shrubs, perennials, and herbs adored by bees, butterflies, moths, and hummingbirds. New growth on these plants is ideal for taking plant cuttings that root quickly, and you can add these new pollinator-friendly plants to your garden in early fall or next spring.

Here, I look at some of the best plants to propagate in May for free pollinator plants. I also reveal some tips I have picked up over my years as a professional gardener to ensure your cuttings root well and grow healthily. New plants at no cost – what’s not to love?

1. Lavender

The dreamy purple flower spikes of lavender are rich in nectar. When you grow lavender in a garden, you’ll often see lots of bees and butterflies flock to the fragrant flowers during the long blooming season.

Gardeners can propagate lavender from softwood cuttings in spring and early summer, with May an ideal time to get new bushes for free. You can buy lavender plants or plant lavender seeds (if you have patience), but taking cuttings offers a great way to get clones of your favorite types.

TIP: The ideal stems for softwood cuttings are 4-6 inches long and this year’s growth. They should not be flowering and should be free from any sign of damage, pests, or disease. And you remove the lower leaves, leaving the top few on a few inches of bare stem.

2. Bee Balm

The name gives this one away, as, unsurprisingly, bee balm is very attractive to many different types of bees. But wait, there is more. Bee balm, also known as monarda or bergamot, is also popular with hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.

It means you’ll see a range of pollinators around this native plant whether you grow it in flower beds or pick compact monarda varieties to grow in containers. All types of bee balm are prime for softwood cuttings in late spring to early summer when they are actively growing.

TIP: Make a cut at the bottom of the cutting, just below a node, and dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone. Such a product mimics the plant’s natural hormones and helps to speed up rooting. It is an optional but recommended stage of cuttings.

You can get gel or powder rooting hormone – an example of the latter is this rooting powder on Amazon.

3. Salvia

Salvia is a large plant genus, which includes perennials and annuals in a wide range of colors, sizes, and forms. If you do want to grow salvia in your garden, there is such a variety that there will be one for any size or style – you can even grow salvia in pots on a deck or patio.

Most gardeners love them as one of the best perennials for vivid color in flower beds. They are also a magnet for pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, which love the nectar-rich tubular flowers of salvia.

If you have a favorite type of salvia in your garden, taking softwood cuttings guarantees you identical plants. It is a great way to propagate salvia this month. Whereas if you collect seed, you can suffer from cross-pollination, and there is no guarantee you’ll get the same blooms you adored on the parent plant.

TIP: After taking and preparing your cuttings, place them in a small container filled with a good potting soil, such as this premium potting soil at Amazon designed for seedlings and cuttings. You can place up to six cuttings in one four-inch pot.

4. Mint

Even though mint has a reputation for being thuggish (which, admittedly, it can be), there are ways to control it, and growing mint is a staple for any herb garden or kitchen garden.

The leaves can be used in cooking and medicine, plus the flowers of the aromatic herb attract lots of pollinators. If you have a patch of flowering mint in your yard, you’ll see bees, butterflies, and moths going after the nectar.

Of all the different mint varieties, mountain mint (you can get live mountain mint plants at Nature Hills) and spearmint (get spearmint seeds and plants at Burpee) are great options if you want to attract lots of pollinators. And you can propagate these, along with any other types of mint, quickly and easily from softwood cuttings in May.

TIP: A simple way to propagate mint is to place the cuttings in water. Take your cuttings the same way as explained above, then submerge the cutting into a container or glass filled with water. Place it somewhere it can get warm, indirect sunlight, and roots should appear within 1-2 weeks. You can plant the young mint into a pot once the roots are a few inches long.

5. Nepeta

Catmint, or Nepeta, always impresses with grey-green foliage, trumpet-shaped lilac blooms, and a citrussy fragrance. It is well-known as being attractive to cats, but do all gardeners appreciate how adored nepeta is by pollinators?

The plant has nectar-rich flowers for bees and butterflies. The pollinators will appreciate the plentiful, long-lasting food source, as nepeta is one of the longest-flowering perennials and can bloom from late spring to early fall.

You should act fast to take nepeta cuttings to get healthy non-flowering shoots before the plants start bursting into bloom for the season. Thankfully, nepeta has a reputation for rooting in just a matter of weeks.

For success, take 4-6-inch cuttings of healthy shoots, snip just below a node, and dip them into rooting hormone. Place the cutting in a small pot filled with free-draining potting mix.

TIP: You can improve the chances of successful rooting by covering the pots with a clear plastic lid or bag. Doing so creates a warmer, mini-greenhouse environment and increases the humidity levels. This reduces moisture loss and stops the cutting from drying out.

You can get nursery pots with humidity domes at Amazon that are perfect for raising healthy cuttings.

6. Buttonbush

There are at least three good reasons to grow buttonbush. Firstly, the native flowering shrub has some of the most unique, spherical, pin-cushion-like flowers. Secondly, it is a low-maintenance shrub to add seasonal interest to borders. And, thirdly, it attracts a plethora of pollinators.

The fragrant white blooms are made up of lots of smaller flowers and are a magnet for many types of bees and butterflies. Furthermore, buttonbush is a host plant for several types of moths. Later in the year, the shrub develops fruits that provide food for lots of species of birds – all in all, these factors make buttonbush an underrated shrub for any wildlife garden.

An existing buttonbush can provide many softwood cuttings in spring. As the shrubs naturally thrive in moister conditions, cuttings tend to root quickly. Plant the cuttings in a moist, well-draining potting mix, and keep the compost moist but not waterlogged. The shrub should happily root in two to four weeks.

TIP: Any cuttings must be taken with clean, sharp pruning tools, such as pruning shears or garden snips, such as these micro-tip plant shears at Walmart.

Heading out with your sharp tools early in the day to collect material for cuttings is recommended, as the stems contain more moisture in the morning. As you collect cutting material, place the stems in a clear plastic bag to prevent them from drying out.

7. Weigela

Weigela shrubs have trumpet-shaped blooms in vibrant shades of pink, purple, or red. These traits make the flowers hugely attractive to bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds throughout the season.

If you want more of these flowering shrubs, the window to take weigela cuttings is open in May. Taking softwood cuttings is a reliable, cost-effective way to expand your collection of these striking shrubs and fill any space with flowers that pollinators adore.

TIP: The cuttings want warmth and bright, indirect sunlight. These ideal conditions can be achieved by placing them into an unheated greenhouse or cold frame to root. However, to speed up rooting, you can place the pots in a propagator or onto a heat mat (like this seedling heat mat at Burpee) for extra warmth.

Shop Gardening Essentials

May is a busy time for any gardener. As well as understanding which plants to propagate in May, it is also a prime month for sowing, planting, and pruning.

Thankfully, we’ve got you covered with expert guides to a range of seasonal tasks. One such example is this guide on what to plant in May for a low-maintenance summer garden. You can also find pieces on easy vegetables to plant in May and fast-growing flowers to sow this month.

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If you want reliable color and impact without the upkeep, and as a time-poor gardener I know I do, these low-maintenance perennials are some of the easiest plants you can grow. Chosen for their resilience and ability to thrive with little to no attention, they are ideal for busy homeowners or anyone who prefers a gentler approach, delivering year-after-year color and beauty.

Not all gardens need constant deadheading, staking, and pruning. Some of the most effective planting schemes rely on tough, adaptable species that quietly get on with the job, whether in formal borders or more relaxed, drought-prone settings. These dependable perennials often go overlooked, yet they are among the most useful plants you can grow.

If you are looking for fuss-free options that can handle a bit of neglect and still perform, the following picks are hard to beat. These are five of the most reliable, easy-care perennials for effortless color and structure.

1. Persicaria

Persicaria (knotweed) are among the longest-flowering perennials, often providing colour from mid-spring until the first frost.

Reliable and unfussy, most species are hardy in zones 4–8 and will grow in sun or shade, tolerating a wide range of soil conditions.

One standout example is Persicaria virginiana, a North American species. It draws attention for its distinctive lime-green foliage marked with dark chevrons, followed by airy pink flower spikes from midsummer onwards.

These delicate, upright blooms work well in both borders and containers, adding movement and texture without demanding much care. Persicaria is widely regarded as one of the most reliable perennials that thrive on neglect.

You can find Persicaria tinctoria seeds at Amazon, with a distinctive magenta flower that is often used in natural dyes.

However, many species can self-seed freely and, outside their native range, may become overly vigorous and invasive. While this has not been a major issue in managed gardens, occasional thinning and deadheading is recommended to keep growth in check.

2. Sedums

Sedums (or stonecrops) are drought-tolerant, succulent perennials that provide reliable structure and late-season colour with very little maintenance. Upright forms produce tall pink-red flower heads in summer and early autumn, adding height and interest to sunny, free-draining borders.

This is a plant with proven resilience, thanks to its fleshy leaves that store water and help it withstand long, dry spells in mid-summer.

Hardy down to zone 4, stonecrops perform best in full sun and are particularly well suited to south-facing sites with sharp drainage. They should be avoided in heavy or waterlogged soils, where root rot can become an issue.

You can find the most striking 'Back in Black' sedum from Burpee.

For maintenance, a light cutback in early spring is usually sufficient and encourages compact, bushy growth through April and May. Beyond that, sedums are among the most dependable, low-effort perennials for time-poor gardeners.

3. Aster

If you are looking for fall-blooming native plants that are low-maintenance but high-impact, then learning how to grow and care for asters is a good idea.

It varies between different aster varieties, but many are cold hardy down to zone 3, requiring little care even in chilly northern regions.

Most asters do best in part-shade, with a few hours of sunshine each day, although some can tolerate full-shade, too. For example, the white wood aster, Eurybia divaricata, is one species that can handle darker settings.

For a purple-flowering option, try the 'Grape Crush' New England aster, with live plants available from Nature Hills. These native plants are a great option if you enjoy colorful, vibrant pots and borders.

4. Yarrow

Yarrow is a hardy, frost-hardy perennial grown in zones 3–9, valued for its finely cut, feathery foliage and flat-topped flower clusters in shades of white, yellow, pink, and red.

It performs reliably in both formal borders and naturalistic planting, and is notably low-maintenance once established. In most cases, it thrives without supplemental water or feeding. Provided it has a sunny position, yarrow will grow well in sandy, loamy, or even clay soils.

It is also a strong pollinator plant, attracting bees and butterflies throughout its long flowering season, making it a useful addition to wildlife-friendly gardens.

Maintenance is minimal, with the main task being deadheading in summer to encourage repeat flowering later in the season.

One standout variety is Achillea ‘Credo’, a soft pale lemon form that combines well with white, yellow, and purple planting schemes. In Italy, it proved particularly attractive to butterflies when in bloom.

For a more vivid option, try this 'Strawberry Seduction' yarrow, available from Nature Hills.

5. Sisyrinchium

Sisyrinchium striatum, commonly known as the yellow Mexican satin flower, is another self-seeding flower that thrives with little input needed.

With attractive spiked foliage that looks similar to that of an iris, this tall perennial is perfect for adding height to cottage garden borders.

These low-maintenance plants grow best in zone 5 plus, with a preference for a sunny spot and free-draining soil.

Delicate yellow flowers will bloom in late spring and should self-seed freely across your borders. Regular deadheading will help to limit its spread and can help to encourage a few late-season flower spikes, too.

There are other species of Sisyrinchium to try, such as the blue-flowering Sisyrinchium angustifolium, available to order online at Walmart, which would work well in cool-colored yards.

What to Shop

Some of the toughest perennials that thrive on neglect are native to North America. For an unusual option, one of my favorites from North America is Sanguisorba canadensis, also known as white burnet.

Hardy down to zone 4, this clump-forming perennial can be grown in a range of soil and light conditions, and will produce masses of lofty blooms that move in the breeze.

For more low-effort and high-impact native plant inspiration, see our guide on the best shrubs that thrive on neglect, and populate your borders with even more easy-to-grow species this year.

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The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day; it is a perfect time to plant a tree. It is an ideal moment to add a low-maintenance tree with fragrant flowers that supports pollinators and wildlife in your garden. So let me introduce you to a sweetbay magnolia.

With citrus-scented white flowers that pollinators adore, and fruits and seeds that provide food for birds, this compact native tree is perfect for any wildlife garden. It is impressively flexible and can be grown in full sun or partial shade and is more tolerant of wetter conditions than other magnolias.

To extol the virtues of a sweetbay magnolia tree, I spoke to specialist horticulturists who believe this easy-to-grow addition is the perfect choice if you want a tree that brings together wildlife value, fragrant blooms, and low maintenance. (And you can find live sweetbay magnolia tree from the Arbor Day Foundation store at Amazon)

What is National Arbor Day?

National Arbor Day is celebrated annually on the last Friday in April. It encourages people to celebrate and plant a tree on this celebratory day.

Across the US, trees are planted in parks, schools, and streets to celebrate National Arbor Day.

It is also a perfect time for homeowners to plant a tree, and what could be better than a native tree like sweetbay magnolia?

Why Plant a Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is native to the coastal plains of the eastern US and can be either evergreen or deciduous, depending on climate. When you plant this magnolia tree, it will be evergreen in milder climates (US hardiness zone 7 and above) and deciduous in colder locations.

It can be grown as a large shrub or small fragrant tree, making it a flexible choice for landscapes, and, due to its common habitat in shaded woodlands and swamps, it is tolerant of wetter sites.

A sweetbay magnolia produces fragrant, creamy white flowers in late spring and early summer. The flowers are fleeting, each lasting for only a few days, and Sharon Yiesla, Plant Knowledge Specialist at The Morton Arboretum, says the timing of these ‘lemon-scented’ flowers makes a sweetbay magnolia perfect for milder climates.

‘A sweetbay magnolia flowers a bit later than other magnolias, in mid-June in the Midwest, which means we get to enjoy its flowers longer as they won't be lost to frosts and freezes,’ she adds.

The flowers, which open and close each day, support many pollinators. The tree makes an ideal addition to a bustling wildlife garden, providing food for many local wildlife species throughout the year.

Ana Herrera-Ruiz, Director of Buildings, Gardens & Grounds at DC’s Historic Tudor Place, highlights: ‘Sweetbay magnolia supports pollinators such as bees and beetles, while its seeds provide interest for birds later in the season.’

Songbirds and squirrels are also attracted to the small fruits, while the tree offers valuable shade and nesting spots for birds.

Sweetbay magnolia is also perfect for a butterfly garden, as it is a host tree for swallowtail butterflies.

You can get a live sweetbay magnolia tree at Fast Growing Trees

Where to Plant a Sweetbay Magnolia

A sweetbay magnolia is adaptable and easy to maintain. Ana Herrera-Ruiz says it ‘thrives in full sun to partial shade’ and performs best where it gets six hours of sunlight a day.

The tree can tolerate as little as four hours of light daily, but the more sun it gets, the more flowers there will be for you and the wildlife to enjoy.

The flowering tree likes moist, well-drained soils. It can tolerate wetter planting conditions than other magnolias and prefers a slightly acidic soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. A simple soil test (you can get a soil test kit at Amazon) before planting will reveal whether the ground conditions suit a sweetbay magnolia, or if you need to amend the soil to make it more acidic.

A sweetbay magnolia can reach 10-20 feet tall and wide. It grows at a slow pace, but it does need room to develop.

As Katie Watkins, a certified arborist for Miller's Tree Service, advises. ‘To keep it performing year-to-year, you’ll need to plant it with plenty of space for the roots and stay consistent with watering during the first year.’

How to Care for a Sweetbay Magnolia

As well as its flowers and benefits to wildlife, another big tick in the box for growing a sweetbay magnolia is that the tree is low-maintenance and fairly drought-resistant once established.

‘What makes a sweetbay magnolia especially valuable in both residential and historic landscapes is its relatively low-maintenance nature,’ says Ana. ‘Once established, it requires minimal intervention beyond routine care and adapts well to partial sun and varied soil types.’

Typical sweetbay magnolia care includes regular deep watering during establishment and during extended drought periods. The tree can tolerate periods of wet soil and drier weather, but the ground shouldn’t be allowed to dry completely for extended periods.

The tree doesn’t need regular fertilizing, but will benefit from mulching with organic matter annually to retain moisture in the ground and keep the soil healthy.

Ana adds that ‘minimal pruning’ is required for shapely, healthy trees. ‘Focus on removing dead or damaged branches to maintain structure,’ she explains.

A sweetbay magnolia tree tends to be hardy to the US hardiness zones 4-10. However, Sharon Yiesla recommends ‘some winter protection’ at the lower ends of its tolerance, as well as avoiding windswept winter planting sites.

The specialist recommends ‘Moonglow’ sweetbay magnolia for gardeners in colder climates, as she says: ‘This cultivar is more tolerant of cold and can retain some of its semi-evergreen foliage more successfully in northern climates. The habit is more upright, and the flowers are slightly larger than the species.’

You can get a ‘Moonglow’ sweetbay magnolia at Nature Hills.

FAQs

What Is the Lifespan of a Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia tends to live anywhere between 50 and 130 years, depending on the conditions.

How Far Apart Should I Plant Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia grows to 10-20 feet tall and wide, but is capable of having a spread of 30 feet. It is advisable to plant them at least 20 feet apart, and the same distance away from houses or other structures.

If you aspire for a garden full of trees that attract and supports lots of wildlife, there are trees suitable for spaces of all sizes. Our guide to the best trees for wildlife highlight 10 great candidates that can provide food and shelter for wildlife, and color and texture for you to enjoy

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Growing fruit trees comes with many perils. As well as the unpredictable weather, there is always the risk of pests nibbling your fruit and diseases that can harm trees and wreck harvests. Disease-resistant fruit trees can ease some worries, be easy to maintain, and yield reliable crops.

There are disease-resistant varieties of all of the best fruit trees. Whether you want to grow apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, or more, there are some great choices resistant to common issues, including scab, fire blight, leaf curl, and bacterial spot. It takes some of the stress away and eliminates the need for regular chemical spraying.

If you seek a more low-maintenance garden, disease-resistant fruit trees tick all the right boxes. Here, we reveal some of the best cultivars that offer a perfect combination of resilience and productivity, so you’ll get harvests without the worry.

5 of the Best Disease-Resistant Fruit Trees

Disease-resistant fruit trees offer great solutions, but they are not a miracle cure. They are bred to be resistant to diseases and will be more immune to specific issues, but they are not completely immune to all potential diseases.

They can still get diseases, especially when stressed by other issues. However, they are low-maintenance and easy fruit trees to grow at home.

1. Liberty Apple

A Liberty apple tree comes with a reputation as one of the most disease-resistant fruit trees you can add to a garden.

It is very resistant to scab, fire blight, powdery mildew, and cedar apple rust – some of the most common diseases that trouble apple trees and can wreck harvests.

If you want to plant an apple and be confident it will stay healthy and productive, look no further than Liberty. You can get a live Liberty apple tree at Amazon.

The cultivar was bred in New York and introduced in the late 1970s. Suitable for US hardiness zones 4-7, Liberty produces medium-sized yellow-green crisp, juicy apples perfect for cooking, baking, and eating fresh from the tree.

The fruits, which are ready to pick in mid-to-late September, also store well for up to three months.

There are many other disease-resistant apple tree varieties to look out for, including Enterprise, Freedom, and Triumph. The latter, developed by the University of Minnesota, is highly resistant to scab and fire blight, and you can get a Triumph apple tree at Fast Growing Trees.

2. Ayers Pear

Fire blight is a common and potentially destructive problem for pear trees. The bacterial disease also affects apple trees, killing branches, flowers, and fruits. In extreme cases, fire blight can even kill an entire tree.

Looking for disease-resistant pear trees is advisable when you want to grow a pear tree, and one of the most resistant is Ayers. You can get a live Ayers pear tree at Amazon

As well as having a great reputation for being resistant to fire blight, Ayers is also resistant to black spot and powdery mildew.

It is a self-pollinating pear tree (though if you want to get a pear tree to fruit profusely, it will yield more if planted near another tree) with juicy, sweet pears to harvest in mid-to-late summer. The fruits can be eaten fresh and are also perfect for cooking.

Other fire blight-resistant pear trees include Warren, Blake’s Pride, Harrow, and Hosui Asian. You can get a live Hosui Asian pear tree at Amazon, and this Asian variety produces crisp, golden fruits.

3. Frost Peach

Gardeners in colder, wetter climes may struggle to grow peach trees or be put off trying completely.

This is because a wet spring can trigger peach leaf curl, and late freezes will kill blossoms and ruin harvests. The Frost peach is a perfect variety for such growers, as it can withstand cold temperatures and is highly resistant to leaf curl.

Peach leaf curl is a common fungal issue. It strikes young leaves in spring, causing them to become lumpy, curl, and fall from the tree. You need to cover trees, prune the peach tree to rid it of infected areas, or spray. But if you plant a Frost peach tree, the risks are reduced as it is resistant and requires less maintenance.

A Frost peach is also bred to withstand cold temperatures, so you don’t need to be concerned about late frosts ruining your fruit. The peaches themself are golden-yellow and juicy. You can get a Frost peach tree at Fast Growing Trees that will grow to 12-15 feet.

Other disease-resistant peach trees less susceptible to leaf curl include Contender and Avalon Pride.

4. Harcot Apricot

Harcot was bred in Canada in the 1970s to perform in colder climates. It offers several advantages compared to other varieties on the market, and is particularly appealing to gardeners who aspire to grow an apricot tree in northern regions.

This is because Harcot blooms later than other apricots, and it can tolerate colder spring temperatures, but may need covering with frost cloth ahead of a deep cold snap. As well as being better suited to the cold, the variety is disease-resistant to bacterial spot, brown rot, and canker, making it a reliable, low-maintenance apricot to grow.

A Harcot apricot tree produces medium to large orange fruits with a red blush, and the flesh is firm and juicy when ripe.

This disease-resistant variety is suitable for smaller spaces. It is a compact semi-dwarf tree, and regular apricot tree pruning can keep it on the smaller side. While self-pollinating, another nearby tree will help the apricot produce fruit better.

You can get a Harcot apricot tree at Fast Growing Trees to plant in a sunny spot. You can even grow the fruit tree in a large pot.

5. Persimmon Trees

If you seek a more unusual fruit tree with an excellent reputation for being both pest and disease-resistant, look no further than a persimmon. Despite not being a common fruit tree, persimmon trees offer year-round beauty and exotic, sweet fruits.

There are Asian persimmon trees (Diospyros kaki) and American persimmon trees (Diospyros virginiana). Luckily, both are regarded as being very disease-resistant fruit trees.

Asian persimmons produce larger fruit, while American varieties are more cold-hardy, and you can get dwarf cultivars suitable for growing a persimmon tree in a container.

You can get a live Asian Fuyu persimmon tree at Fast Growing Trees. This variety is the most popular persimmon globally and is naturally pest and disease-resistant.

Alternatively, you can get a live American persimmon tree at Amazon.

What to Shop

Disease-resistant fruit trees are undoubtedly going to be more low-maintenance than other varieties. Another aspect to consider when choosing fruit trees is their level of drought tolerance.

The most drought-tolerant fruit trees include fig, pomegranate, persimmon, and loquat trees. These types are more suited to warmer climates and will require less watering during the hotter months, saving you time and effort.

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This creative container idea is all about packing in the delight, with something to see, taste, touch, smell – and even stop and listen to – in one cleverly thought out pot. It's the ultimate sensory experience for green-thumbed nature lovers. Here I share five plants (and a cute little water feature) that are guaranteed to get all the senses tingling, no matter how small your outdoor space.

We're all well versed in considering gardens in terms of how they look, but a planting combo that stimulates all five senses can really enhance the therapeutic effects of your outdoor space. Plant up this container and place it in your yard, or on your balcony, and it will invite you slow down, linger and savor every minute detail.

Coming together in moments, this is one of the simplest and most rewarding sensory garden ideas you'll find. I've designed this planter on a Mediterranean theme, choosing plants that will thrive together in a container in a sunny spot. I've also given you a few alternatives for swapping things in and out as you fancy. Fill your container with multipurpose compost mixed with plenty of horticultural grit, and you'll be away.

Choosing the Right Container

If you follow this planting recipe, you'll have a container of five perennial plants that will look, smell, taste, sound and feel great for years to come. The pot you choose will need to be at least 20in (60cm) in diameter and 12in (30cm) deep to give them space to mature.

If you're going to include the water feature idea, go for something more like 3ft (90cm) in diameter.

This is a planting combination that enjoys sun and well-drained soil, so unglazed terracotta is a good option, as it allows the soil to breathe and water to evaporate quickly.

It's also aesthetically perfect, conjuring up sun-baked earth and hot, lazy days on the Mediterranean coast. If your planter doesn't come with drainage holes, make sure you drill some in.

Try this Acanthus pot from Home Depot for a classic country house look. You can also shop outdoor planters at Lowes.

1. Lavender

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is a go-to plant for perfume, and for good reason. It flowers from mid to late summer with those classic upright spikes of headily scented purple, pink or white blooms.

The evergreen foliage is aromatic too, containing oils that release a fresh, pine-like fragrance all year round. It'll reach around 2-3ft (60cm-1m) in two to three years.

French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is also a great option. The plant is stouter, growing to around 16-24 in (40-50cm), with each fat flowerhead topped with a tuft of purple bracts.

On to how to grow lavender… All varieties need sharply drained soil and plenty of sunshine, so some crocks placed at the bottom of your container will help here. Position your lavender in the centre of your pot or at the back, slightly off centre, making sure you give it space to reach its ultimate spread.

Lavender is an evergreen shrub that will come back year after year. To keep it looking good, make sure you prune it back by around a third shortly after the flowers have faded in late summer.

Bonus: the lazy buzz of bees will soon add to the sensory appeal of your lavender.

Shop lavender plants at Fast Growing Trees.

2. Briza Media

Briza media, or common quaking grass, is a pretty ornamental grass with a diaphanous, ethereal quality. It's fairly tall, at around 3ft (90cm), with arching stems decked from late spring with locket-shaped flowerheads (emerging with a purplish tint and maturing to a golden sand color) that bob around jauntily in a breeze.

Listen ever so carefully (or run a hand through its wiry stems) and you'll hear those flowerheads gently rustle and chime. You can leave these stems standing over winter for interest.

This is a semi-evergreen perennial, hardy in USDA zones 4-10, so it'll give you colour through most of the year, along with the lavender. Also like the lavender, it's happy in well-drained, fairly poor soil, so no need to fertilize here.

There are as many uses for ornamental grasses as there are good alternatives. For an ornamental grass with movement and texture, you could also include Stipa teniussima or purple-flushed Festuca amethystina, either of which will tone beautifully with your lavender.

Shop ornamental grasses at Fast Growing Trees.

If you're keen to take the 'sound' aspect of your sensory container a step further, why not include a small solar powered water feature? Try the blue glazed koi design from Amazon, which will bring a calming gurgle in full sun without the need for complicated wiring or set-up.

3. Lamb's Ears

The ultimate tactile perennial, lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina) forms a soft carpet of silver foliage that's irresistible to touch. There are a few different forms available, but for this container I recommend 'Silver Carpet' as it's one of the best plants for silver foliage.

Other cultivars flower more (at the expense of the foliage), but for the understorey of our sensory container, it's the soft, downy leaves we're after here.

Lamb's ears are suitable for USDA Zones 4-9 and thrive, like the lavender and grasses, in full sun and sharply drained soil.

Nature Hills Nursery stocks a pretty lamb's ear called Helene Von Stein.

For a totally different tactile sensation, swap in – or add – a sea holly (Eryngium). Their stems are topped with prickly teasel-like flowers in midsummer that come in ghostly shades of white and silver, as well as blue.

They're around 60cm tall and enjoy the same Mediterranean conditions of sharply drained soil and full sun.

Shop 'Blue Glitter' sea holly at Nature Hills Nursery

4. Thyme

This one's for the kitchen. The taste element of our sensory container. I've chosen thyme here (USDA Zones 4-9), as it has so many foodie uses and it looks fabulous too.

There are many different kinds, but learning how to grow thyme is simple. They all share the same love of direct sunshine and well-drained soil, so whichever you choose, it'll fit right in in our sensory container.

Choose a silver-leaved variety such as 'Silver Posie' to tone with the grey-greens of the lavender and lamb's ears, or introduce an element of citrus bright with 'Lemon Variegated' or 'Archers Gold'. Thyme is one of the best plants for pollinators too. All have small pinkish flowers from late spring into summer, which the bees adore.

Thyme is a low grower, to around 6in (30cm), so use a few plants and pop them around the edges of the pot where they will spill gently over the sides and soften the outline of your container.

In terms of upkeep, all it needs is a little trim after flowering to keep it neat.

You could go for another sun-loving Mediterranean herb, like oregano or sage.

Shop herb plants at Nature Hills Nursery

5. Cosmos

The two most widely grown cosmos are the annual Cosmos bipinnatus and the perennial Cosmos atrosanguineus (chocolate cosmos). I'm recommending the latter here, as it means you'll have a container that will last for years to come.

I particularly love the new award-winning variety, 'Cherry Chocolate', which has deep pink flowers and shorter stems than the original chocolate cosmos, at around 1-2ft (45-50cm). With its rich cocoa fragrance and beautiful cherry red petals, it's a winner in both looks and scent.

It's suitable for USDA Zones 7-11, and borderline hardy, its tuberous roots being susceptible to frosts, just like dahlias.

So treat it the same way in USDA Zones 7-8 and either mulch it well in autumn, or bring the pot somewhere in winter where it will escape from the worst of the freezing temperatures.

There are so many ways to treat the senses in a garden setting, but making up a planter is certainly one of the quickest and simplest. This container idea can take all kinds of variation, so just let your imagination run wild. Just make sure your selected plants all enjoy the same or similar conditions of light, soil and watering and it's hard to go wrong.

Then just sit back and enjoy the sights, scents and sounds of your creativity.

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Ground cover plants that thrive on neglect are some of the hardest-working additions you can make to a garden. These low-maintenance spreaders quickly cover bare soil, suppress weeds, and help lock in moisture – all while delivering a carpet of foliage and, in many cases, flowers. And right now, in spring, is an ideal time to plant them, giving roots a chance to establish before the heat and dryness of summer.

In every garden I’ve worked in, from large Italian estates to compact city plots in London, I’ve come to rely on these resilient plants to fill awkward gaps and soften challenging spaces. That said, no plant is entirely maintenance-free. While these varieties will tolerate drought, poor soil and shade, they still benefit from the occasional trim or tidy. Some, like vinca or wild ginger, can also spread more vigorously than expected, so it’s always worth checking what’s suitable for your region.

Below are five of the best ground cover plants I’ve grown and trusted over the years as a professional gardener. From the silver foliage of lamb’s ear softening a stone path to Japanese spurge filling bare spots beneath shrubs, these reliable performers prove that beauty and resilience can go hand in hand.

A Note on Groundcovers You Can Neglect

Once they’re established, these are tough and versatile species that will manage without regular watering, feeding, or attention.

That said, plant with caution. Many of these plants are vigorous, and while they like to be left alone to scramble and crawl and creep, in some regions, they can get out of control, and may be considered invasive ground cover plants to avoid in your region.

1. Wild Ginger

One of the best native ground cover plants to stop weeds has to be wild ginger. Hardy down to zone 3, this tough North American species thrives in dark and damp woodlands across much of Canada and the United States.

You can purchase live wild ginger starter plants from Amazon, which will be fast to establish, and also find wild ginger seeds at Walmart.

In terms of how to grow wild ginger, or Asarum canadense, this plant does best in shady spots and in soils that retain a little bit of moisture.

However, I have known this species to thrive in moist, swamp-like soils, as well as dry, rooted soil under large trees. So wherever you plant it, wild ginger tends to grow just fine.

Be warned, however, that this vigor can be a problem, and if left alone to spread, wild ginger can be considered an invasive plant outside of its native range. For this reason, always do your homework before planting in your yard.

2. Periwinkle

If you are seeking evergreen ground cover plants to fill beds and borders year-round, periwinkle is a fast-growing, reliable choice. Vinca minor and Vinca major form low, spreading mats that are particularly useful on slopes, where their creeping habit helps bind soil and reduce soil erosion.

Exceptionally tough, periwinkle is hardy to zone 4 and thrives in dry shade, though in my experience it will grow almost anywhere – from hot, exposed beds to dark, tricky corners.

Periwinkle can be purchased online at Nature Hills. You can also find live starter periwinkle plants at Amazon.

It spreads by rooting where stems touch the soil, making it ideal for quickly covering large areas. However, this vigorous growth can also be a drawback. In many parts of the eastern US, periwinkle is considered an invasive perennial, so only plant it if you are prepared to manage and contain its spread.

3. Wild geranium

For a hardy geranium variety, you will not find much better than wild geranium. Native to woodlands across North America, wild geraniums, or Geranium maculatum, are some of the easiest ground cover plants to grow.

In terms of how to grow wild geraniums, this hardy and pest-resistant species can be planted from zone 3 to zone 8.

This lilac 'Rozanne' variety of wild geranium from Nature Hills is stunning and has fragrant flowers that bees love.

These are considered perennials that thrive on neglect, and can be left alone to root and spread under large trees and woodland beds.

They are remarkably adaptable to a wide range of climates and situations, growing just fine in both shade and sun. In cooler, northern regions, including zone 3 and 4, I would suggest providing some sunshine, but in southern areas, shady protection is best.

Once settled, wild geraniums will produce masses of pale pink blooms in spring, whilst the attractive palmate foliage will last right through to the first frost.

4. Japanese Spurge

Japanese spurge, or Pachysandra terminalis, is an evergreen ground cover plant I have used in several backyards.

Garden designers love this species, and it is easy to see why. It’s not flashy, but it offers reliable, year-round coverage with thick, waxy green leaves that hold up well in shade.

I think Japanese spurge is one of the best plants for under trees, thriving in a situation where little else survives.

Growing best from zone 4 to zone 8, it is ideal for spaces where you want coverage without fuss.

A word of caution, however, is that Japanese spurge can be slow to get going. Often, it can take a year or two to establish, but with time, it will cover bare soil and fill challenging areas with dense foliage.

Japanese spurge plants are available at Walmart.

As with other plants in this list, Japanese spurge is considered thuggish in the right situation, growing a little too well for low-maintenance gardeners.

In both Washington and Virginia, it is classified as an invasive plant, so check with your local government office before planting in your yard.

5. Lamb's ears

Stachys byzantina (lamb’s ears) is an excellent ground cover for full sun, where it thrives in full sun and copes well with drought once established. Its soft, silvery foliage makes it one of the most reliable and ornamental low-growing plants for dry, exposed areas.

You can find this tactile Stachys byzantina 'Helene Von Stein' at Nature Hills.

I’ve grown it in a Tuscan gravel garden where it crept naturally along the edges of sun-baked paths, thriving in poor, free-draining soil with almost no attention. It’s one of the best silver-foliaged plants for both beauty and resilience, forming dense mats that suppress weeds and tolerate light foot traffic in the right conditions.

Hardy from zones 4–10, lamb's ears also produce upright pink flower spikes in late spring and early summer, although these can be removed if they start to look untidy. Late spring is an ideal time to plant, giving it the full season to establish before peak summer heat.

Tools for Planting Groundcovers

When adding ground cover plants that thrive on neglect to your yard, be sure to firm them before deep watering, giving these tough species the best start in your yard. And, in no time at all, they will begin to settle and spread.

Once established, most of these species can be ignored, save for the odd spot of pruning and dividing on an annual basis.

For more plant inspiration, see our guide on the best flowering ground cover plants, and fill your yard with color. Our list has some unusual and bright species to try this year.

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Small-space gardening doesn't have to mean limited planting. In fact, having a window box is sufficient space to create a vibrant display that lasts from spring to fall – especially when you choose the right flowers.

If you're feeling stumped for inspiration for spring window box ideas, then turn your attention to window box flowers to plant in April. Adding these blooms now will reward you with a bright display that offers color right through summer to fall. You don't need a huge window box either, as there are lots of compact flowers that will thrive in a vessel the size of this IKEA white window box planter.

From petunias to lantana, there are options to suit every clime. Here, gardening expert and landscape designer Brandon McCormick shares his top picks of window box blooms to plant now for a dazzling display that will last for months.

1. Petunias

'Petunias are one of the most reliable choices for long-lasting window box displays,' says Brandon. 'Modern varieties, especially trailing types, will continuously bloom and spill over the edges, creating a full, lush look that lasts for months.'

Petunias are hardy across USDA zones 2-8, and it's super easy to grow petunias in pots. They're a great spiller in thriller, spiller, filler container ideas, and also work well in a hanging basket (like this coco coir lined one from Amazon).

'Remember to deadhead lightly and feed every 2–3 weeks to keep petunias blooming into fall,' Brandon advises.

You can remove spent blooms with gardening snips, like these on Amazon.

These pink petunia starter plants from Walmart are a great size to pot up in your window box.

2. Verbena

'Verbena is a heat-tolerant, trailing bloomer that thrives in containers and continues flowering well into late summer and early fall,' Brandon describes.

There are lots of types of verbena to grow, with the tallest varieties (such as 'Argentinian Vervain' at 5-7ft) making great back-of-border plants. For a window box or container, opt for a more compact, bedding plant variety, like the 'Quartz' verbena (seeds available on Amazon), which is hardy across USDA zones 7-11.

'Place it in full sun and deadhead verbena lightly mid-season to refresh growth and encourage a second flush of blooms,' Brandon advises.

You can grow verbena from seed (with these verbena seeds from Burpee), starting them early indoors between late winter and early spring.

Bonus: This is a great plant for pollinators, so you can expect bees and butterflies to flutter around your window box all spring and summer.

3. Lantana

'Lantana is an excellent choice for warmer climates, producing vibrant clusters of flowers that attract pollinators and persist through heat and drought conditions,' Brandon says.

You can grow lantana across USDA zones 8-11, and it thrives in pots, appreciating good drainage. It comes in a wide range of colors, including the two-tone pink and yellow lantana photographed above.

'Ensure excellent drainage and full sun,' says Brandon. 'Lantana performs best when slightly stressed rather than overwatered.'

Don't forget to prune lantana with clean and sharp pruning shears (like these Fiskars ones on Amazon) to keep it shapely and to remove dying and leggy stems.

Find a lantana plant at Burpee.

4. Pelargoniums

'This is another standout for sustained color,' says Brandon. 'Their upright growth adds structure, and they tolerate sun and heat exceptionally well, making them a dependable anchor plant in window boxes.'

You can grow pelargoniums across a wide range of climates, but they thrive best in USDA zones 9-11.

They come in a wide range of color combinations, from these red pelargoniums on Amazon to these white pelargoniums on Amazon. For an enticing fragrance every time you open the window, opt for scented pelargoniums (you can find a citronella plant at Walmart, for example).

'Always allow the soil to dry slightly between watering to avoid over-saturation and encourage stronger flowering,' Brandon advises.

You can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to identify when your window box's soil has sufficiently dried out.

5. Million Bells

'Calibrachoa, or million bells, offers a smaller, petunia-like bloom but with even more prolific flowering,' says Brandon.

'It’s ideal for creating dense, cascading color that holds up through the entire season,' he describes.

Containers like window boxes are ideal for growing million bells because these blooms need lots of drainage.

'Use a well-draining potting mix (like this Miracle-Gro potting mix at Walmart) and avoid overwatering. These perform best when roots stay evenly moist, not soggy,' Brandon advises.

Million bells come in endless color options, including this yellow million bells plant on Amazon and this tangerine million bells plant at Walmart. They do best across USDA zones 9-11.

What to Shop

FAQs

How Often Should I Water My Window Box?

This all depends on the plants you have growing in your window box, but keep in mind the soil will dry out more quickly because it's elevated and has extra drainage. You can conduct a moisture test either with your finger or your soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to identify whether the soil has dried sufficiently for the specific plants you're growing in it.

If your window box isn't sitting on a sunny side of the house, our guide to planting a window box for shade has plenty of solutions. And don't forget to bring a sensory feel with fragrant herbs for a window box.

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Fertilizing in April is one of the most helpful things you can do for plants. As spring is a time of rapid growth across the garden, feeding plants gives trees, shrubs, and perennials a beneficial boost at a key time in the season.

Shrubs, perennials, fruits, and container plants will thank you for providing them with that vital dose of nutrients by fertilizing this month. It’ll help them grow strongly and have the energy to produce foliage and flowers in the coming weeks and months. Your TLC is more than repaid with a stunning display.

There is no denying how important fertilizing is in April – it needs to be near the top of any spring gardening checklist if you want beds and pots brimming with beautiful blooms this year. Here we look at some of the most important plants to fertilize in April, and reveal the feeds to use to guarantee the best results.

1. Roses

Growing roses remains globally popular, and feeding plants guarantees the best display of those sought-after blooms.

In most climates, they will have started developing new growth for the season ahead. After they wake from their winter slumber is a perfect time to fertilize roses and give them a dose of essential nutrients for strong spring growth and to produce flowers.

These hungry plants always want feeding in spring with a balanced slow-release fertilizer once they start to grow again. A product like this Espoma organic rose-tone food at Walmart is ideal for the job and will give you healthy shrubs and bigger blooms come summer.

Apply the product to the soil around the drip line and gently work it into the top inch of soil before watering well. Avoid the fertilizer coming into contact with the woody stems.

2. Shrubs

Flowering shrubs need annual feeding to perform at their best. As deciduous shrubs start to leaf out for the new season, they are hungry for nutrients to guarantee healthy growth and strong flowering.

At this stage in their annual cycle, fertilize shrubs with a slow-release fertilizer that contains the primary nutrients needed for strong plant growth.

A rounded NPK ratio means the feed has a good mix of nitrogen for strong foliage, phosphorus to stimulate the production of blooms, and potassium for healthy roots.

If you worry about potentially over-feeding shrubs, these tree and shrub fertilizer spikes at Amazon are pre-formulated to feed shrubs and simply need to be hammered into the soil near the plants in spring.

Plus, if your shrubs prefer acidic soils, like rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, and Japanese maples, use a feed specifically for such plants instead, like this acid mix at Amazon.

3. Evergreens

Evergreen shrubs also produce new foliage in spring and require a valuable dose of nutrients. However, they prefer a slightly different type of fertilizer at this time of year.

Firstly, they only require a light feeding. Indeed, unless the shrub shows signs of slow growth, yellow leaves, or ill health, it may not need fertilizing at all in spring. Evergreens in healthy, fertile soil types may not need feeding every year, but will benefit from an application of spring fertilizer at times, and April is an ideal window for this.

A suitable fertilizer for evergreen shrubs is higher in nitrogen to boost strong foliage growth. You can use high-nitrogen products like chicken manure pellets (you can get organic chicken manure plant food at Walmart), or a product formulated especially for evergreens, such as this Evergreen-tone plant food at Amazon.

4. Fruit

Fruit trees and bushes are bursting into new growth in spring and want lots of nutrients to leaf out, flower profusely, and provide you with a bumper harvest of fruits.

There is a sweet spot between the buds breaking and the flowers opening to fertilize fruit trees and guarantee yourself a great crop.

You can see this guide to fruit trees to fertilize in April for specific advice on groups of trees you may have in your yard.

As for a quick overview of how to fertilize fruit trees this month, they want a product with a balanced NPK ratio, such as this 10-10-10 slow-release fertilizer from Amazon. Spread it around the area under the tree as wide as the canopy and water it into the soil.

If you are growing fruit bushes, such as berries and currants, they also need feeding in early spring to get them on the right track to a great harvest. A balanced feed is ideal, except if you are growing blueberries, as they prefer acidic soil and want a feed for acid-loving plants.

You can get a specially formulated liquid blueberry fertilizer at Amazon

5. Perennials

Many gardeners are likely to see the first shoots of perennial plants in their flower beds appearing in April.

Once the plants start actively growing in spring is a perfect time to fertilize flower beds. It gives them a great boost of nutrients at a time when they are exerting a lot of energy producing stems, buds, and flowers.

A balanced, slow-release product is the best fertilizer for flowers in April, such as this 10-10-10 all-purpose flower and vegetable food at Amazon. As clumps expand and lose vigor over the years, annual feeding and dividing plants every few years keep any perennials performing year after year.

Only ever feed perennial plants gently; never go over the recommended rates. Over-fertilizing plants is always a mistake to avoid. But when it comes to perennials, you will get lots of lush growth rather than blooms, and that excess is likely to flop and look unsightly come summer.

Spring mulching is also advisable after fertilizing. Spread a 1-2 inch layer of organic matter, such as compost, leaf mold, or bark chippings (you can get bags of pine bark mulch at Lowe’s), to smother weeds, retain moisture, and feed plants as it decomposes.

6. Container Plants

Plants in container gardens always need more feeding and watering than those in the ground, as they can use up all the nutrients in the compost. After planting, the nutrients in the mix tend to last a couple of months, and so the plants need feeding going forward.

It means that any plants that have overwintered in pots and are entering a new season will be desperately in need of an additional dose of nutrients in early spring for the food they need to grow and flower over the weeks and months ahead.

To fertilize container plants, it is advisable to opt for a slow-release fertilizer in spring, supplemented with regular liquid feeds every week or two going forward.

This Osmocote plant food on Amazon can feed for up to six months and is a great source of spring nutrients. Sprinkle the recommended amount onto the soil surface and mix into the top inches of soil.

Follow this up with a liquid feed starting at least two weeks after the initial application. For this, you can use a general liquid product, homemade comfrey tea, or a seaweed fertilizer, such as this sea magic extract at Burpee.

What to Shop:

April can be a really busy time in any garden. But it is also an exciting time of year as the temperatures rise and the garden really bursts into life.

To help you plan your month, our guide to what to plant in April shows what range of plants you can add to your garden as the soil warms in spring. And, this piece on plants to prune in April will tell you what you should and shouldn’t trim this month, too.

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Azaleas can make a stunning addition to any smaller space. Knowing how to grow azaleas in pots allows you to enjoy their spring displays, glossy foliage, and fall color in gardens of any size. Indeed, they are low-maintenance shrubs, provided you get a few key factors correct.

Pots not only open up opportunities to grow azaleas if you aren’t blessed with large beds or borders, but, as acid-loving plants, containers can be an ideal solution if you have alkaline soil. Getting that soil right is key to success, along with picking the right variety, pot size, and location to ensure your shrubs thrive.

Any shrubs in containers require a bit more care and attention than when in the ground. But that shouldn’t put you off. To reveal how to grow azaleas in pots, I chatted with two azalea experts to show how you can easily create the perfect conditions for healthy flowering shrubs and beautiful displays.

Can Azaleas Grow in Pots?

Yes, you can grow azaleas in pots in many different climates and spaces. With the National Gardening Bureau naming 2026 the ‘Year of the Azalea’, there is no better time to add one to your yard. Provided you get the following right, you can enjoy beautiful displays from the shrubs in containers.

1. Pick the Right Type of Azalea

There are reputedly over 10,000 cultivars and hybrids of azaleas in existence worldwide. Among that wide variety are lots of compact types, which make the best azaleas for pots.

These types offer all the beauty of larger azaleas, but in a compact size. Dwarf varieties, which you may see sold as ‘patio azaleas’, are much easier to grow in a container garden, and you will find both evergreen and deciduous types.

Encore azaleas are perfect for pots. These types grow to just 2-3 feet tall and are bred to rebloom. You get a beautiful spring display, followed by more flushes of blooms in summer and fall.

You can get an Autumn Bonfire® Encore® Azalea Shrub at Fast Growing Trees that impresses with bright red flowers throughout the year.

2. Choose the Perfect Pot

To successfully grow azaleas in pots, choosing the right pot is critical. There are a few important factors to get right, primarily concerning size and drainage.

When it comes to size, don’t go too large. Jim Putnam, plant expert on behalf of Encore Azalea, says the plants need ‘room to grow’ but can suffer if the pot is oversized, as the soil sits too wet.

‘I typically recommend a container that’s 2–4” wider than the root ball to start. From there, the size can be increased as needed over time,’ says the azalea expert.

‘Azaleas have shallow, fibrous roots, so width matters more than depth. A wider container, such as an azalea pot, is always better than a deep, narrow one,' he adds.

To ensure good drainage, any container must have drainage holes in the bottom for excess moisture to escape. To further boost the drainage, Kathy Jentz, editor of The Azalean for the Azalea Society of America, adds: ‘You can also elevate pots on bricks or pot-feet to ensure it keeps draining properly.’

The pot can be any material, but opting for ceramic or terracotta pots will allow air circulation and prevent the soil from staying too wet. You can get a premium handmade Tuscan terracotta planter at Wayfair for an azalea that can bring beauty and warmth to any garden.

3. Use the Correct Soil

Azaleas prefer a more acidic soil, with a pH of 4.5-5.5. Most potting soils commonly sold in garden centers or online are more neutral, usually with a soil pH of 5.5-7.

This is not ideal for growing azaleas, so Jim Putnam offers two options to ensure you create a perfect environment for the shrubs – and one is likely easier and more appealing to many home gardeners.

‘In containers, use a high-quality potting mix blended with shredded pine bark. That will add necessary drainage while still holding enough moisture,’ he says.

‘Another great choice would be a potting mix labeled for azaleas, camellias, or rhododendrons.’

A bag such as this natural planting soil for acid-loving plants at Amazon offers the simplest way to fill containers with a soil type perfectly suitable for your azaleas.

4. Place It in Part Shade

Azaleas have somewhat specific needs that must be accommodated for them to thrive. The advantage of growing azaleas in pots is that you can move the containers around to pick the perfect spot for them in the yard.

You should plant azaleas in partial or dappled shade. Kathy Jentz highlights a spot with ‘4-6 hours of morning sun and afternoon shade’ as a perfect spot for a happy azalea.

Shade is especially important in hotter climates, as too much direct sun can cause leaf scorch and stress the shrub. Never plant an azalea in direct sun in warmer US hardiness zones.

Depending on your US hardiness zone, you may need to overwinter azaleas to ensure they survive year-round in pots. The roots are more exposed in containers, so they may need insulating against winter temperatures.

‘Azaleas in containers can overwinter without any protection in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and higher,’ advises Kathy. ‘If you are in Zone 6 or lower, you may wish to group the containers against a wall or fence out of direct winds.

‘Alternatively, you can sink them in a hole in your compost pile or wrap them loosely in burlap and fill in around them with leaves. You can also add extra mulch on the soil surface around the azalea's root zones in the container.’

5. Be Careful With Watering

Azaleas in pots will need regular watering, especially during the summer. To care for azaleas in the summer, it is recommended to keep a close eye on the shrubs to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.

‘Monitor how much rain you have and only water it if needed,’ says Kathy. ‘Most azaleas will need an inch of rain or water per week.’

As mentioned earlier, azaleas have shallow, fibrous roots, so the soil must not be allowed to dry out completely. You can check moisture levels under the soil surface with your fingers, or use a soil moisture meter to see whether you need to water plants.

As for a good watering regime, Jim recommends: ‘Water thoroughly, then let the top inch or so dry slightly before watering again. It’s better to water deeply and less often than to keep the soil soggy all the time.’

It is best to harvest rainwater and use that to water azaleas, as tap water can be too alkaline for the shrubs. You can use a rain barrel or rain chain to collect rainwater, or see this guide on harvesting rainwater without a gutter for some novel ways to gather this valuable natural resource.

Finally, you should fertilize azaleas growing in pots in spring and summer. Use a slow-release food specially formulated for acid-loving plants, such as this organic Azalea-tone plant food at Amazon.

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You may wonder, do you need to deadhead azalea flowers during the season? Well, the answer is yes and no, and here’s why.

Deadheading azaleas doesn’t encourage new blooms like other shrubs (such as deadheading roses), but it does preserve the attractive look of the plant. It all depends on whether you mind the look of brown, spent blooms or prefer a cleaner azalea.

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Herbs are some of the most rewarding plants to grow, delivering aromatic and delicious leaves to cook with. The best part is you don't need a sweeping kitchen garden to grow them, as many are suited to growing right on your windowsill. April in particular is a great time to plant herbs, getting them started for spring and summer harvests.

From basil to rosemary and even chives, there are several herbs to plant in April to kickstart your herb garden. With warmer temperatures and more hours of daylight arriving this month, it won't take long for these fragrant beauties to sprout and fill your home with their enticing scents and flavors.

Growing herbs on your windowsill is super straightforward, too. You can use pots or opt for repurposing jars to grow them in water (i.e., hydroponically). However you choose to grow them, the following five herbs can be planted this month.

How to Grow Herbs on Your Windowsill

There are so many ways to start an indoor herb garden all year round.

The controlled conditions of the indoor environment even make it possible to grow herbs in fall and winter (with the help of indoor growing systems, like this bamboo grow light from Amazon).

In spring, you can make the most of warmer room temperatures and longer daylight to grow herbs indoors with much more ease.

As long as you have a bright windowsill, you can use anything from nursery pots (like this pack on Amazon) to mason jars (from Walmart) to grow herbs indoors successfully.

Below are five easy herbs to plant in April to get you started:

1. Basil

You can grow basil indoors at any time, but April is a particularly ideal month to start seeds.

This is true if you want to add basil to your outdoor garden, too.

Starting basil seeds indoors now provides enough warmth and protection from lingering cold spring temperatures so that it becomes established enough to add to the yard once the risk of frost has passed.

'If provided with proper conditions, basil will bring in a rich harvest within a few weeks,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

You should sow basil seeds (like these from Burpee) thinly on the surface of well-draining herb potting mix (like this from Amazon).

'Plenty of sun is the prerequisite for basil’s lush growth. Ensure that your plant has 6-8 hours of full sun daily and it will get larger and stronger,' Marina says.

'Initially, basil needs a lot of water, so water it every five days in spring, every 2-3 days in summer,' she adds.

If you want to grow basil in water, you can grow basil from cuttings in a glass vessel or experiment with the Kratky method using these Kratky hydroponic pots from Amazon.

2. Rosemary

Rosemary is a slower growing herb, so it's a good idea to start seeds indoors in April to get a head start.

The good thing about growing rosemary is that it's a hardy herb with varieties like 'Arp' (seeds from Burpee) surviving winters down to USDA zone 6. So, once it becomes established, it's a reliable addition to your outdoor herb garden.

Indoors, you can keep rosemary productive year-round by using a seedling heat mat (like this from Walmart) and a grow light to maintain optimal conditions during winter.

When growing rosemary indoors, bear in mind it will take 3-4 weeks for seeds to germinate, so patience is key.

Provide rosemary with a direct sun position (a south-facing windowsill is best) and make sure to harvest rosemary correctly to encourage more growth, i.e., don't cut into the woody base as this may stunt growth.

3. Parsley

Parsley is another of the best herbs to plant in April, typically germinating in 2-4 weeks when grown indoors.

It's fairly simple to grow parsley from seed (like with these parsley seeds at Burpee). If you soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting, the seed shell will soften, and it can accelerate germination.

'Parsley grows best when it gets water on a regular basis,' Marina notes. 'And avoid full sun in the afternoon, which may turn its leaves yellow from leaf scorch.'

Once established, you can prune parsley to encourage bushier growth. Harvesting parsley regularly will encourage more vigorous growth.

These herb harvesting scissors from Amazon make clean cuts that maintain plant health.

4. Peppermint

One of the best mint varieties to grow in April is peppermint. Starting seeds now will allow them to establish in time for summer.

While you can grow peppermint from seed (like these peppermint seeds from Burpee), it is often faster to grow cuttings of peppermint, for example, from this peppermint starter plant from Walmart.

When growing from seed, simply push them into the surface of the soil gently, as they need light to germinate.

'Ideally, you need to maintain average or high humidity of 40–80% around peppermint,' says Marina.

'Use a humidifier or a pebble trays (like this from Amazon) to increase humidity indoors,' she advises.

Once established, don't forget to keep moisture levels up for this herb.

'This herb can’t stand dry soil and will probably wilt if you forget to water it. To make your peppermint happy, keep the soil consistently moist,' Marina says.

You can use a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to identify when it's time to water your peppermint.

5. Chives

You can grow chives by planting seeds in April, and they'll be ready to harvest in 60-90 days.

'Despite being drought-tolerant, chives thrive if watered regularly, especially during hot periods. To get the best harvest, keep the soil slightly moist and don’t let it dry out completely,' says Marina.

Outdoors, these herbs do well across USDA zones 3-9 in a full sun position. Indoors, a direct sun window sill is recommended to encourage more vigorous growth.

'Chives require moist and nutrient-rich soil to thrive. Good drainage is also a must – it helps prevent fungal diseases,' Marina adds.

When harvesting chives, it's best to cut a small clump of leaves at a time, cutting just an inch or so above the soil line.

What to Shop

Once you have your indoor herbs established, you may be considering moving them outdoors for the spring and summer. But, don't be too hasty, early-mid spring can be too early to move herbs outdoors.

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A well-designed outdoor space has the power to reduce stress, elevate mood, and enhance mindfulness. The concept of emotional landscaping is a key trend that has grown out of this. It sets out to tap into these positives more fully to support your wellbeing.

Using the scents, colors, and textures of plants can have many positive benefits to help manage stress and boost how we feel. It's an easy way of nurturing our emotional health with mindful gardening techniques. Nothing is so beneficial as working out a life-enhancing planting scheme, then getting your hands in the soil to make it happen.

It can be as simple as creating a garden with breathtaking plants that delight you, or choosing to grow plants that nurture a sense of calm so you feel your garden is a place to retreat from the world. Our selection of the key plants for emotional landscaping will help you find ways of boosting your mood whenever you're outside.

1. Lily of the Valley

In spring, I'm lucky that lily of the valley grows abundantly in a shady corner of my garden. These precious little plants thrive beneath a lilac tree, where they offer an easy-care ground cover choice that looks beautiful, too.

Find petite lily of the valley bulbs here at Wayfair. The best time to plant them is in the spring.

Often associated with springtime renewal, wellbeing and happiness, I find it so uplifting when I see the first green leaves shooting up in April, followed by the delicate flowers that fill the air with such an intoxicating scent. Green and sweet with hints of lemon, it's hard to imagine a more spring-like scent. Or one that's so comforting if you're looking for wellness garden ideas.

These delicate flowers thrive in dry or damp shade, in Zones 3-8. Every few years, I dig up some of the plants to thin them out and regenerate the clumps. While lily of the valley can be invasive, this isn't the case in my garden, but it's good to be aware.

2. Angelica

One of my favorite feel-good moments in the spring garden is when the majestic angelica plants come into bloom. Grown from one tiny seed several years ago (you can buy angelica seeds here at True Leaf Market), my original has now multiplied into several more handsome plants to create an eye-catching statement.

For me, this statuesque beauty is one of the standouts of the new season. Known for centuries for its medicinal qualities, the masses of lime-green umbellifer flowers on tall, branching stems are a real wake-up in the garden. Growing up to six feet tall in Zones 4-7, these starburst flowers are a magnet for pollinators who love the delicious scent, and it's lovely to see the bees getting busy on them.

My angelica plants make a strong architectural statement at the back of a deep border, flowering right into midsummer, when the ornamental grasses and flowering perennials planted with them start to catch up.

The flowers turn a lovely pale yellow as the weather gets warmer, and I love to pick them for flower displays in the house, too. I mix them with other big blooms like peonies and hydrangea flowers to bring more of those positive garden vibes indoors.

3. Parrot Tulips

Is there anything more joyful to behold than a mass of tulips in the spring garden? In particular, I love the flamboyant parrot tulips, the ones with ruffled and fringed petals that add an explosion of the most vibrant colors. Just the sight of them is balm to the soul.

Parrot tulips have such a decadent and luxurious feel. I'm a big fan of the 'Apricot Parrot' cultivar, so pack in as many as I can, in both flower beds and spring planter ideas. A lovely sugary pink with flashes of contrasting lime green on the outer petals, they're a pure serotonin hit when you catch a glimpse of them in the garden. Find a parrot tulip bulb bundle of four different varieties here at Amazon.

These are a mid to late blooming variety, and as I'm such a big fan of tulips in general, I like to mix in other types with different flowering times to ensure a succession of blooms that will take me from the beginning of April right through to the end of May to extend the feel-good factor for as long as possible. The good news is that tulips thrive as perennials in Zones 3–7, so they will bloom year after year.

4. Lemon Balm

If you love the idea of adding a plant with scented leaves you can pick to brew a soothing tea, make lemon balm your go-to. This aromatic plant, which is a member of the mint family, is known for promoting relaxation and a sense of calm, and the oil is used for meditation.

I love the ritual of snipping the leaves and steeping them in boiling water. Drinking a cup of this before bedtime can promote relaxation and help you get a good night’s sleep. It's best to harvest the leaves during the spring season, though, as this is when they're at their freshest and most flavorful.

It's possibly the easiest plant I've ever grown, and it flourishes in Zones 4-9. Find lemon balm seeds here at True Leaf Market, and you will be harvesting leaves in six weeks.

As well as making sure I have plenty of lemon balm in the herb garden, I like to add it to flowerbed ideas too, as it's a great leafy perennial to fill out any gaps in the planting.

5. Lamb's Ears

The tactile qualities of some plants can be especially soothing, and none more so than lamb's ears (Stachys byzantina). Touching the soft velvety leaves is such a soothing experience that I have some planted up in patio pots, so I can stroke the leaves whenever I'm relaxing in the garden. It's a great way to enhance those mindfulness moments.

The muted gray leaves are so calming; it's no surprise this plant is the number one choice for emotional landscaping in any sensory garden design. Thriving in Zones 4-9, lamb's ears will be covered in pretty pink flowers from spring through summer, making it a good addition to a relaxed planting scheme.

It's also one of the best plants for pollinators, for more of the feel-good factor. Plant one of these, and the butterflies will come in droves. Find the Helene Von Stein cultivar of lamb's ears here at Nature Hills to add delightful texture to your borders.

6. Sweet Peas

Nostalgia plays a big role in emotional landscaping, and this is often connected to associations triggered by scent. Gorgeously fragranced sweet peas take me right back, as my grandmother always grew rows of them in her garden. Now, when I smell that sweet powdery fragrance, I'm instantly transported back to childhood with an emotional connection. It's such a lovely memory, I get a real dopamine boost.

I grow sweet peas for their beautiful ruffled flowers too, which come in both delicate pastels and bold shades. I start sweet pea seeds indoors in early spring, then transfer them outside to the garden when the young plants are sturdy enough. Sweet peas flourish in Zones 2-11, and you can find 'Royal Family' sweet pea seeds in strong mauve and red colors here at True Leaf Market, just like the ones we've pictured here.

It's a rush when the first flowers unfurl, and the tendrils start to race up the sweet pea teepee, and for me, it's the first real scent of summer. To keep the blooms coming, I pick them regularly to arrange in vases and bring that gorgeous fragrance indoors to enhance the mood inside the house, too.

7. Dahlias

Color is everything in emotional landscaping, and this is where dahlias are something of a superstar. They come in a huge range of colors (as well as shapes and sizes). Once you've cracked how to grow them – sunny position and plenty of fertilizer – the adrenaline rush keeps coming all summer and into fall as a multitude of blooms follow one after another.

There’s a smorgasbord of different types to choose from in every color, from hot pink, orange, and red to faded coral, soft lilac, and blush.

I have had most success with the decorative dinner-plate dahlia varieties with their massive blooms, such as Cafe au Lait. These add such joyful, eye-popping detail to your flowerbeds that everything else tends to pale into significance. Find Cafe au Lait dahlia tubers here at Amazon.

Dahlias are tender perennials hardy in Zones 8–11, while in Zones 3–7, they need to be lifted and stored for winter.

When you experience success with your planting choices, as I have with dahlias, it's such a thrill. For me, this is one of the biggest dopamine hits of all in terms of the well-being benefits of emotional landscaping.

Find out more about how gardening can improve your physical and mental wellbeing, and check out other plants with soothing properties for emotional landscaping such as lavender, chamomile, and aloe.

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Serviceberry, or amelanchier, is a deciduous, spring-flowering tree or shrub that offers year-round interest in the form of profuse spring blossom, edible berries, and bright fall foliage. It also attracts lots of wildlife to a yard, with many bird species known to eat the berries. Compact varieties of serviceberry can offer all this beauty growing in pots in small spaces, provided you get the conditions right.

If you want to grow a serviceberry in a pot, there are some important points to consider. As well as picking compact forms of these under-rated trees, you also need a large pot, slightly acidic soil, a sunny corner of a deck or patio, and regular watering and feeding. It may sound tricky, but in reality, it isn’t difficult. Get the basics right, and you can have happy shrubs for years.

This guide looks in-depth at how to grow serviceberry in pots, deep-diving into each of the aforementioned aspects to help you have healthy, thriving shrubs and a fantastic seasonal display in a container garden.

1. Pick a Compact Variety

Even a dwarf or compact serviceberry can make a stunning tree for spring blossom. Many serviceberries are native plants to North America and can grow between three and eight feet tall.

These are ideal varieties for growing in containers in smaller spaces, compared with larger-growing trees that reach up to 30 feet.

The dwarf serviceberry (Amelanchier spicata), varieties of saskatoon serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), or Amelanchier laevis 'Snowflakes' are all suitable for container growing.

They are low-maintenance small trees that remain compact and can put on a lovely display in containers in a small garden, or on a deck or patio.

You can get live Amelanchier alnifolia plants at Amazon

2. Use a Large Container

Even compact shrubs for containers benefit from larger pots. They need sizable containers to prevent a 4-6-foot shrub from topping over as the plant grows, especially during windy weather.

Start by planting a serviceberry into a container 18-24 inches wide and deep. Any pot must have drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain away and prevent root rot.

As the serviceberry shrub matures, it may need repotting every few years into a larger container. A large terracotta planter like this handmade Tuscan roll rim planter at Wayfair can be a beautiful, sturdy option for a serviceberry shrub.

Best practise is to pot plants up into slightly larger pots as they mature, rather than using a huge container right away. This avoids excess soil that holds lots of water, which increases the risk of rot.

3. Use Ericaceous Soil

Any chosen container wants to be filled with a light, well-draining potting soil formulated for container gardening. The key with a serviceberry in a pot is to pick an ericaceous loam-based potting compost, as the shrubs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.

You can get a bag of planting soil for acid-loving plants at Amazon that is formulated for a low pH to suit those that prefer slightly acidic conditions.

If you opt for a more general-purpose potting mix, there are ways to make the soil more acidic. These include adding homemade compost, aluminium sulfate, or coffee grounds, which can help lower the pH over time.

4. Give the Plant Sun

A serviceberry in a pot likes sun and will perform best in a spot that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. The plant can tolerate part-shade, but the flowering and fruiting will be affected. Less sunlight will mean less flowering and fewer berries.

An ideal spot could be a south-facing garden deck or patio, somewhere without large periods of shade from overhanging trees, buildings, or neighboring fences.

Gardeners in warmer southern climates may prefer to locate their containers in a spot that provides afternoon shade. The plant can get a respite from scorching afternoon sun, and it can reduce how often you need to water to keep the soil moist during the summer.

5. Water and Feed Regularly

Watering and feeding are key to successfully growing serviceberry in pots, especially to keep plants happy for years. A key point to remember is that plants in containers dry out faster than those in the ground, especially during warm summers. You need to check plants in containers regularly to keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged.

When watering plants in containers, check the moisture level a few inches under the soil surface. This can be done with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon), and you water deeply if the soil feels dry. Water the container until excess moisture runs out of the drainage holes.

To keep the soil more acidic, it is advisable to harvest rainwater. As rainwater typically has a slightly acidic pH, using this natural resource when you water plants helps keep conditions perfect for serviceberry.

When it comes to fertilizing, use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring formulated for acid-loving plants, such as this 8-4-8 acidic fertilizer at Amazon. In addition, a liquid fertilizer, such as this Miracle-Gro plant food, also at Amazon, can be used for supplemental feedings throughout the growing season.

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Serviceberries can be hardy down to US hardiness zone 2, depending on the species, but the roots of container plants are more vulnerable to cold.

Gardeners in colder climates may need to protect container plants from winter weather by moving them to a sheltered spot or wrapping potted plants for winter with horticultural fleece or burlap. It is also advisable to use pot feet (such as these no-slip pot feet at Walmart) to lift the container off the ground and improve the drainage to prevent waterlogging over winter.

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The Arts and Crafts movement of the late 19th century was all about botanical imagery, in an effort to unite the garden and the home. William Morris wallpapers became the epitome of this, with winding stems, layers of leaves, petals and fruits all making up instantly recognizable patterns. One of the best ways to bring this sense of whimsy to your own yard is by growing the plants behind the designs – from strawberries to honeysuckle.

William Morris was a British writer, designer and craftsman. His influence became critical during the increasing industrialization of the Victorian era, where he advocated for a return to traditional crafts and meaningful work – both principles that became central to the Arts and Crafts movement. Through his company, Morris and Co., he created detailed patterns inspired by nature, having researched historical printing and dyeing methods.

Many of William’s designs feature species that are grown today across temperate climates. By looking at the plants behind the famous patterns, it's possible to gain an appreciation of how nature influences decorative design. Here, I talk through five special flowers in Arts and Crafts wallpapers, and how you can grow them in your own garden.

1. Strawberry Thief – Inspired By Woodland Strawberry

The Strawberry Thief pattern depicts a thrush amongst strawberry plants.

William was inspired to design this print after witnessing this garden bird stealing strawberries from his own garden at Kelmscott Manor in Oxfordshire, England.

It's thought that the strawberries in question are what is commonly known as woodland or alpine strawberry, Fragaria vesca. This variety is a low-growing perennial ground-cover plant that spreads by putting out runners.

The leaves and white five-petalled flowers are the same as the standard strawberry and the edible fruits produced are sweet and delicately perfumed.

The alpine or woodland strawberry grows best in light shade, preferring moist, well drained soil and like a standard strawberry, enjoys soil rich in organic matter. Native to Europe where they grow wild and in gardens, they are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4-8.

Explore the Strawberry Thief collection at Morris & Co.

Find woodland strawberry seeds on Amazon.

2. Honeysuckle – Inspired By Common Honeysuckle

The honeysuckle in this William Morris design is most likely to be the common honeysuckle, again a European woodland plant.

It’s a twining, deciduous climbing vine that grows by wrapping its stems around supports such as trees, or in gardens can be grown along a fence or trellis.

The honeysuckle produces highly fragrant, two-lipped, tubular flowers in a white to cream shade, attractively flushed pink on the outside, which provide nectar for insects.

It flowers from mid-late summer, followed by glossy red berries in the fall. Honeysuckle grows successfully in USDA hardiness zones 4-9, preferring a well-drained soil and either full-sun or partial shade.

Explore the Honeysuckle collection at Morris & Co.

Find a honeysuckle plant at Fast Growing Trees.

3. Pimpernel – Inspired By Scarlet Pimpernel

Spiralling stems, curling leaves and full-blown tulips are the main focus of this print, but look closely and you will notice smaller flowers.

Designed in 1876, it seems counterintuitive to have named the print ‘pimpernel’ when in fact the larger tulip blooms are the main emphasis, but clearly William had his own reason for dotting this tiny flower into his design.

The scarlet pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis) is a native wildflower in Great Britain. It’s a low-growing, creeping annual that produces tiny orangey-red star-shaped flowers and can be grown from seed.

The pimpernel thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5-10, blooming from mid-summer to early fall.

Explore the Pimpernel collection at Morris & Co.

Find scarlet pimpernel seeds on Amazon.

4. Woodbell and Anenome – Inspired By Bluebell and Wood Anemone

The English bluebell (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) is grown from bulbs and spreads quickly in part-shade. In spring, the 12-18" tall, erect stems bear arching racemes of mid-violet blue tubular flowers and glossy linear dark green leaves.

The bluebell is a native wildflower in England and thrives beneath deciduous trees, particularly Fagus sylvatica (beech) where it forms a carpet of color in the spring.

This bee-friendly bluebell is easy to grow either in a woodland setting or mixed with other spring flowering bulbs in a part-shaded plot in hardiness zone 4-8.

As for Anemone nemorosa, wood anenome is a low-growing perennial bearing small white petalled flowers with a pale yellow center. The flowers open during the day but close at night and during colder weather.

Look closely and the flowers will be flushed pinkish lilac on the reverse.

The palmately-lobed leaves are usually bright-mid green and the plant will spread happily beneath trees where there is plenty of soil rich in leaf litter.

The wood anemone can be grown in USDA hardiness zones 5-7.

Explore Woodbell and Anenome wallpaper at Morris & Co.

Find English bluebell bulbs on Amazon and wood anemone seeds on Amazon.

5. Golden Lily – Inspired By Martagon Lily

Interestingly, this famous print which is so often attributed to William Morris was designed in 1899, three years after William’s death, by John Henry Dearle, head designer at Morris & Co.

The design depicts a lily with reflexed petals amongst swirling stems and other blooms. Martagon or Turk’s Cap lilies are tall (3-5 feet) and need a lot of space.

They should be planted 6-8 inches apart in a part-shade position in well-drained, hummus rich soil.

In early summer, they bear large racemes of elegant, downward-facing flowers with outward-curved petals in colors varying from red through to pale pink, and in shades of pale yellow to gold.

Martagon lilies are a great plant for pollinators and attractive to beneficial insects.

Tolerant of cooler temperatures, this lily is suitable for growing in hardiness zones 3-9. Beware though, the Martagon lily is a plant toxic to cats.

Explore the Gold Lily collection at Morris & Co.

Find martagon lily bulbs on Amazon.

Shop William Morris Garden Accessories

The flowers in Arts and Crafts wallpapers reflect William Morris's appreciation of the natural world and the traditional craftsmanship, which was the heart of the Arts and Crafts movement that he helped to shape.

The real plants that he observed in his own garden, transformed into the familiar prints we know today, show that his creations are more than just ornament. They serve as a celebration of nature and a quiet reminder of his stand against industrialization and a commitment to preserving skilled crafts.

For more inspiration, read our article on Gravetye Manor's Arts and Crafts garden ideas – one of the most important British gardens in the movement.

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A flower bed jam-packed with vivid early summer blooms sounds dreamy – a perfect start to the season. There are fast-growing flowers to plant in April to bring that vision to reality, and they are all super-simple to grow. If you want lots of flowers by early summer, these picks are for you.

The likes of alyssum, cosmos, gaillardia, nasturtiums, sunflowers, zinnia, and more can go from sowing to flowering in 10 weeks or less. If you sow seeds in April, you can look forward to beds or containers bristling with blooms come June.

For the last decade-plus, I have always grown flowers from seed. Whether it was for displays in the gardens I worked in, for cutting, or for my home garden, I always found immense joy in homegrown blooms. I have chosen seven of the fastest-growing flowers to plant in April, those that germinate fast and bloom in 6-10 weeks.

Where to Sow Fast-Growing Flowers

Whether you sow seeds indoors or outdoors will depend on your climate. If your soil has warmed to 50-55°F in April, you can sow many seeds outdoors and enjoy fast germination.

But those in milder climates are best sowing seeds indoors to get a head start. For each of these flowers to plant in April, I reveal some of my own sowing tips to help you have bustling flower beds or container gardens come early summer.

1. Sunflowers

Sunflowers are a classic summer flower. The mention of sunflowers may make you envision the quintessential bright yellow blooms, but you can find varieties with red, orange, or brown flowers.

Whether you grow statuesque sunflower varieties, dwarf sunflowers for pots, or something in between, they are show-stopping and one of the fastest-growing flowers to plant in spring.

Germinating in around a week in ideal conditions, and going from sowing to blooming in 8-10 weeks, plant sunflower seeds in April and you’ll be enjoying their flowers in early summer.

I have always started growing sunflowers indoors in early spring. As a half-hardy annual, it protects the seedlings from late frosts and cold snaps. Sow the seeds in small pots – biodegradable pots (like these Jiffy biodegradable pots on Amazon) are a great solution as they reduce root disturbance when you transplant seedlings.

If your soil has warmed enough this month, sow sunflower seeds in half-inch deep drills and try to space them 4-6 inches apart. Covering them with a cut recycled plastic bottle as a DIY cloche creates a mini greenhouse and stops slugs or snails from nibbling the seedlings.

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Amazon

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Walmart

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at Burpee

See the range of sunflower seeds to plant at True Leaf Market

2. Zinnias

Zinnias are bright, cheery flowers that come in a variety of dazzling colors to uplift beds, borders, or pots. There are zinnia varieties in countless shades to bloom from early summer through to the first frost. As half-hardy annuals, you need to decide when to plant zinnia seeds carefully. Choose well, and your zinnias can potentially start blooming in 8-12 weeks.

An important point to remember when growing zinnias is that they dislike root disturbance. As many gardeners won’t be able to sow outdoors this month, because zinnias need the soil temperature to reach 60ºF to germinate, biodegradable pots are crucial to prevent troubling the roots when transplanting.

Fill the containers with a quality potting mix and place them in a greenhouse or warm windowsill where they can enjoy temperatures of 68-75°F. A heated propagator or heat mat (you can get a seed starting heat mat at Walmart) may be required to ensure good, speedy germination.

If your soil is warm enough in April, and the risk of cold snaps has passed, sow seeds a quarter-inch deep and 10-12 inches apart in the ground. When the seedlings reach 10 inches, pinch out your zinnias to encourage branching and more flowers.

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Amazon

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Walmart

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Burpee

See the range of zinnia seeds to plant at Botanical Interests

3. Nasturtiums

What is there not to love about growing nasturtiums? They look stunning, nasturtium varieties come in a kaleidoscope of colors, they are really easy to grow, the whole plant is edible, plus they are great for companion planting and keeping unwanted pests off your other flowers or vegetables. Can you tell I am a fan?

Add to that the fact that nasturtiums germinate reliably and grow fast. In ideal conditions, you’ll see the sprouts appear in a week, and the first flowers can be enjoyed 6-8 weeks from sowing. You can appreciate nasturtium blooms from summer into the fall.

Gardeners can plant nasturtium seeds directly into the garden after the frosts, once the soil temperature reaches at least 55°F. Sow them an inch deep and at least six inches apart, thinning to 10-12 inches once they germinate.

To grow the easy edible flower from seed indoors, fill three-inch biodegradable pots with potting mix and sow two seeds per pot. Put the pot in a greenhouse or on a warm windowsill, and the seeds will germinate quickly at 55-65°F. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, and harden off the seedlings before planting them outside later in spring.

Many gardeners recommend soaking seeds for a few hours before planting their nasturtiums. It is not something I have done myself, and I still enjoyed good results. But it is worth experimenting with, as soaking seeds can speed up germination.

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Amazon

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Walmart

See the range of nasturtium seeds at True Leaf Market

See the range of nasturtium seeds at Botanical Interests

4. Marigolds

Marigolds are easy-to-grow annual plants you can grow in borders or pots to brighten up any space. They germinate quickly and bloom in bright shades of orange, gold, or red for many months. As great plants for pollinators and perfect flowers to plant in a vegetable garden to deter pests, they are great additions to any yard.

Gardeners can start marigold seeds indoors in April by filling seed trays or modules with a good potting mix and lightly covering them with a thin layer of more soil or vermiculite. The seeds will sprout in a week at temperatures of 70-75°F in a greenhouse, propagator, or on a warm windowsill.

In warmer gardens, the annual can be sown directly into half-inch drills, covered, and kept moist. Direct-sown marigolds may need protection from slugs and snails, either by using physical barriers (sharp materials like gravel or broken eggshells discourage them) to stop slugs from destroying plants, or by using beer traps (you can get slug and snail traps at Amazon) as a form of slug control.

See the range of marigold seeds at Amazon

See the range of marigold seeds at Walmart

See the range of marigold seeds at Burpee

See the range of marigold seeds at True Leaf Market

5. Gaillardia

Also known as blanket flower, gaillardia is a fast-growing flower choice for filling borders with exuberant orange, red, yellow, or white flowers. They take 6-8 weeks to start flowering and continue to do so from early summer through to late fall.

Most varieties of gaillardia are native plants that attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators throughout the blooming season – making them a great choice for a wildlife garden.

Direct sow gaillardia seeds in the garden after the last frost. These seeds need light to germinate, so it is as simple as clearing weeds from your chosen spot, raking the soil level, and scattering the seeds over the surface. Keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged, and the seeds should reliably germinate.

The alternative is to plant the seeds indoors in April. Sow them onto the surface of trays, modules, and individual pots and keep them warm and moist. At temperatures of 70-75°F, gaillardia seeds should germinate within two weeks.

Once the plants start blooming, deadhead blanket flowers regularly to give yourself and your garden wildlife the longest-lasting display to enjoy.

See gaillardia seeds at Amazon

See gaillardia seeds at Walmart

See gaillardia seeds at True Leaf Market

See gaillardia seeds at Botanical Interests

6. Alyssum

Alyssum, also commonly called sweet alyssum, is a fast growing tiny flower that develops carpets of blooms within 9-12 weeks from sowing. It is an easy-to-grow annual with a sweet scent and masses of blooms, most often they are white, but you can also get pink and purple varieties.

Alyssum often makes a great choice for a plant to edge a flower bed with, or to grow alongside garden paths to spill over onto the hard landscaping. As well as looking highly decorative, alyssum also makes an attractive, fast growing ground cover to smother weeds while also attracting pollinators.

In early spring, sow alyssum seeds indoors or outdoors, depending on your climate. If you still have a risk of frosts, sow indoors as the seeds will germinate very quickly in warmer conditions.

Alyssum seeds are tiny and need light to germinate, so don’t cover them with any soil. They want 55-70°F for speedy germination, and can be transplanted outside after the frosts.

See the range of alyssum seeds at Amazon

See the range of alyssum seeds at Walmart

See the range of alyssum seeds at Burpee

See the range of alyssum seeds at True Leaf Market

7. Cosmos

Cosmos are hugely popular summer flowers, and for good reason. I have grown them year-after-year, hence their spot in this list of the top flowers to sow in April.

Let’s quickly rattle off some great traits about growing cosmos; they are easy-to grow, flower in 10-12 weeks from sowing, and continue to bloom for long periods of time. Gardeners can pick between types of cosmos in many bright colors, and the blooms make great cut flowers as they offer a long vase life. It all sounds good, right?

Plant cosmos seeds indoors in April if your soil temperature is below 60°F, as it will not germinate happily in colder soils. You’ll get much better success planting seeds indoors this month, and transplanting the seedlings outdoors once the soil warms.

Sow cosmos into trays, modules, or pots and sow the small seeds a quarter of an inch deep. For strong germination, use a greenhouse, propagator, or warm windowsill, where the seeds can get a temperature of 64-75°F, and keep the soil consistently moist.

When your plants reach 6-10 inches tall, pinch out cosmos to encourage lots of sideshoots and a prolific display of summer flowers. And to keep cosmos blooming, the secret is deadheading throughout the summer.

See the range of cosmos seeds at Amazon

See the range of cosmos seeds at Walmart

See the range of cosmos seeds at Burpee

See the range of cosmos seeds at True Leaf Market

See the range of cosmos seeds at Botanical Interests

What to Shop

If you are in search of more monthly planting inspiration, we’ve got you covered. You can see our guide on native perennials to plant in April to add more flowers to your garden for years to come, or check out this on fruits to plant in April for a garden full of homegrown fruit to enjoy straight from the tree or bush.

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Stevia is a herb known as a sugar-free sweetener. It is a popular sugar substitute, but commercial stevia is heavily processed and often mixed with other ingredients to resemble sugar. Growing your own stevia plant (Stevia rebaudiana) means you can enjoy a 100% natural, zero-calorie sweetener from your own garden.

Stevia, also commonly known as candyleaf, sweetleaf, or sugarleaf, can be used fresh to sweeten food or drinks, or may be added dried or as a liquid. The leaves of the small, bushy plant are 200-300 times sweeter than sugar, yet calorie-free, and have been used as a natural sweetener in Southern America for centuries.

If you want a natural, super-sweet plant for your herb garden, stevia is definitely worth considering. This guide focuses on how to grow stevia at home, from buying plants or sowing seeds, to the ideal conditions, to how to care for and harvest it.

How to Grow Stevia – Seeds or Starter Plants

Stevia is a warm-weather, tender crop. It is commonly grown as an annual plant outdoors in US hardiness zones 3-8, but can be grown year-round in certain situations.

Ashleigh Smith from True Leaf Market claims that stevia grows best in temperatures of 70-85°F. She adds: ‘In frost-free areas of zones 9-11, it can be grown as a tender perennial, but it will not grow much when temperatures are below 60°F.’

Gardeners in warmer US hardiness zones can grow stevia outdoors year-round in the milder temperatures. Or, those in colder climates can overwinter plants indoors on a sunny windowsill to extend the growing season.

If you want to grow stevia, you can either buy starter plants (you can get live stevia plants at Amazon) or sow seeds (get stevia seeds at True Leaf Market).

Stevia can be finicky to grow from seeds, and it is best to sow seeds indoors around 8-10 weeks before your last frost. Sow seeds into trays or pots filled with seed compost (you can get a seed starting mix at Burpee) and cover them with a thin layer of soil or vermiculite.

The seeds need 68-75°F to germinate, so a heated propagator or heat mat may be required to provide those consistent temperatures. Even in ideal conditions, they can take up to three weeks to germinate. Keep them moist, but not waterlogged, and transplant seedlings after the last frosts.

Ideal Growing Conditions for Stevia

Young stevia plants should be spaced 18 inches apart in their final location. This should be a sunny area where they can receive at least six hours of direct sunlight daily.

However, in the warmest US hardiness zones, they may prefer a spot with afternoon shade. As Ashleigh Smith advises: ‘If grown outdoors in hot weather, a little afternoon shade can reduce water stress.’

You should grow stevia in a loose, well-draining soil type, one rich in organic matter. This means incorporating some compost (either homemade or a bag of organic compost like this from Amazon), leaf mold, or well-rotted manure before planting.

The unusual herb prefers a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.5, but can tolerate a range of 5.0 to 8.0. It can be worth doing a soil test beforehand to check the soil pH and make any amendments.

Stevia is suitable for container gardens or herb planters if you don’t have sufficient ground space. Fill a container with a quality potting soil for herbs, like this organic potting mix at Burpee.

‘Stevia can also be successfully grown indoors in soil or hydroponically with ample sunlight,’ adds Ashleigh. ‘Grow in a bright south-facing window, or aim for 14 hours per day of bright grow lights.’

Care Tips

Careful watering is essential when you grow stevia. The plants need consistent moisture, but don’t enjoy sitting in soggy soil for long periods. Check the moisture levels regularly, and water once the top inch dries out.

As stevia plants have shallow roots, they benefit from regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist. A soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) can instantly tell you the moisture levels and help you make informed decisions about when to water your plants.

Stevia plants do not need lots of feeding. If you added compost before planting, no additional feed is required. If you didn’t, add a handful of balanced, slow-release fertilizer when planting stevia, like this all-purpose granular plant food at Burpee.

The plants may then benefit from an additional feed from a water-soluble plant food during the season. This can come in the form of a fish or seaweed fertilizer, or a comfrey or compost tea (such as this instant compost tea at True Leaf Market). Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which reduce the leaves' sweetness.

Once stevia plants reach around eight inches in height, they benefit from being pinched back. Pinching out plants promotes bushy growth and the development of lots of leaves. Doing it regularly also stops the stems from flowering, which causes the leaves to develop a bitter taste.

You can pinch back plants either with your fingers or a pair of garden snips, such as these straight-edge garden snips at Amazon.

Harvesting

You can start harvesting stevia leaves once they are large enough to use, which doesn’t take too long from planting. ‘You can begin to harvest stevia leaves in as little as 30-40 days if harvested sparingly,’ says Ashleigh. ‘The plant will generally reach full size in 60-90 days.’

The leaves can be harvested individually as required, or entire stems can be removed. However, it is important not to remove too much at one time. ‘If you only remove less than a third at a time, it will continue growing and provide multiple harvests,’ adds Ashleigh.

Stevia leaves are reputed to be at their sweetest in the fall, and you need to pick the leaves before the plant blooms. If you do see flower buds forming, pinch them off.

The leaves can be used fresh. To do so, chop or crush them for a sweet addition to drinks. You can also dry the leaves by laying them on fabric or a screen somewhere warm and sunny, or by hanging stems upside down, for a day or two. Alternatively, you can use a dehydrator.

As discussed earlier, stevia plants can survive winters outdoors in warmer climates or indoors in milder ones. However, even if you can overwinter tender plants, the vigor of stevia plants drops after the first year.

A key way to keep growing stevia year after year is to take cuttings. You can take 4-6-inch cuttings of non-flowering stems in spring or summer. Strip leaves from the bottom half, dip the bottom end in rooting hormone (you can get rooting powder at Garden Goods Direct), and place the cuttings in pots filled with potting mix.

These plants can be maintained indoors over the colder months and planted outside after the last frost in spring.