September is a transitional month in the indoor garden, as many houseplants are slowing down and preparing for dormancy. It means that care for the likes of a jade plant starts to change from the routine you kept in summer.

Growing a jade plant is very straightforward and low-effort year-round, but it is important to adjust how often you water it and where it's located as daylight and temperature changes this month. Failing to do so can unintentionally harm your jade plant, weaking it before the most challenging winter conditions arrive, potentially killing it off.

That's why I always tick off a few key tasks in September to rejuvenate my jade plant after a tiring summer of growth and set it up for the incoming cooler season. So, with an Amazon soil moisture meter to hand (and the rest of your houseplant care kit), here's where to start.

1. Relocate It Somewhere Brighter

As my attention turns to fall houseplant care in September, one of the first things I do is reposition my jade plant so it receives adequate light.

While a jade plant may turn red in a south-facing windowsill during scorching summer heat, this spot during fall can provide the 4-6 hours of bright light these succulents need.

Further away from a windowsill may be too dark as daylight hours deplete. Leaving a jade plant in this position with too little light can encourage leggy and stretched growth, weakening it and causing a less aesthetic silhouette.

If you do find your jade plant becoming leggy, cut back to just above a leaf node and gradually improve light exposure to encourage fuller growth. You can use these Fiskars micro-tip snips on Amazon to do this.

2. Reduce Watering

Jade plants actively grow during spring and summer, during which they require regular watering to stay hydrated in hotter weather. Come late summer and early fall, they require much less water.

As succulents, jade plants are susceptible to overwatering and root rot, so it's best to allow them to dry out completely between watering. The thing to be aware of this month is cooler temperatures will dry out the soil more slowly, so you won't need to pick up the watering can as frequently.

For this reason, I always use my soil moisture meter (which you can also find at Walmart) before watering my jade plant. You can also use the bottom watering houseplants method to properly hydrate the roots if you're nervous about overwatering.

3. Check For Pests

After a hot, dry summer, September is a good time to check over your jade plants for pest and diseases. Mealybugs, scale and spider mites in particular thrive in the drier conditions of summer and if not stopped, can quickly take over and kill houseplants.

Fall can also bring a lot of houseplant pests indoors and populations can explode. I like to regularly check underneath my jade plant's foliage for any hiding pests and handle it as soon as its spotted.

Cleaning houseplant leaves with these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon can help deter pests, as well as using organic neem oil (you can use this neem oil for plants from Walmart) to make your plants less habitable for them.

4. Stop Fertilizing

You only need to fertilize your jade plant when it's actively growing, supporting it with a boost of essential plant nutrients.

In September, fertilizing is no longer needed as roots aren't soaking up the nutrients so readily. In fact, chemical feeds can burn roots and oversaturate the soil during this time, resulting in discoloring foliage, leaf drop, and even death of the plant.

It can also encourage lots of new, tender growth that won't cope well with colder conditions in fall and winter, ultimately weakening your jade plant.

Instead, stock up on jade plant fertilizer from Amazon now to apply in early spring when your plant shows signs of new growth.

5. Propagate Your Jade Plant

I always like to propagate houseplants in September, as the lingering warm temperatures and longer daylight hours provide the perfect conditions to support rooting before fall.

You can propagate your jade plant by taking a cutting of a 3-4 inch stem with these gardening snips from Lowe's. Always cut just below a leaf node as this is where roots will emerge.

As with propagating other succulents, allow your jade plant cutting to form a callus before dipping it in rooting hormone powder (available at Walmart). You can then insert it in potting mix, keep it on a warm windowsill and watered to encourage rooting.

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There are several challenges of caring for houseplants in fall and winter. If your jade plant starts dropping leaves over the coming weeks, for example, it could indicate a watering issue. You may also find you need to repot your jade plant if it has outgrown its current container. Fall is a good time to do this.

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My orchids have finished flowering for the year and spent summer pouring their energy into root and foliage growth before the next bloom cycle begins. To help them reliably rebloom in spring, and even encourage earlier blooming, there's always one thing I do in September: move my orchids somewhere cooler.

Moth orchids, or Phalaenopsis, are the most common indoor orchid to grow (take a look at The Sill's collection of moth orchids). Their flower buds typically open in spring but they first require cool nights in fall to trigger new flower spikes, replicating what happens in their natural tropical habitat. The problem is in the warm shelter of our homes orchids don't always experience this cold exposure, which can explain why you may have previously struggled to get an orchid to rebloom. By simply relocating your orchid to a cooler spot in the house in September you can encourage the growth of new flower spikes, resulting in blooms as early as late winter.

But, there a few warnings that come with this September orchid trick. You need to place your orchid in a spot with optimal cool temperatures and then know when to relocate it somewhere warmer again, otherwise you risk bud drop. Here, with the help of a houseplant expert, I talk through everything you need to know.

Why Move Orchids Somewhere Cooler?

In their native habitat of tropical and subtropical rainforests across Asia, New Guinea, and northern Australia, moth orchids experience a significant temperature change as summer turns to fall – it typically drops to 55-65°F at night for several weeks.

This signals to the plant to start growing a new flower spike for spring blooming.

'Since most orchids are kept indoors, the temperature change that comes with fall isn’t as noticeable. You’re giving it enough of a temperature change that it recognizes fall and starts preparing a flower spike,' explains Adrian Aviles, houseplant expert and owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop.

This is especially true if you have consistent heating on through fall and winter. It can result in delayed blooming or a lack of blooms in spring.

That's why placing your orchid in a cooler spot of the home this month can help replicate these natural conditions. Having a room thermometer (like this from Walmart) to hand can help you find the perfect location.

Where to Move Orchids

This September orchid trick for earlier reblooming requires a careful approach, as simply taking your orchid off a sunny windowsill and putting in the path of a draft could shock and cause stress, stunting growth altogether.

'I recommend moving the orchid to a room that naturally has a bigger difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures. A bright room that cools down a little in the evening is usually a good option,' Adrian suggests.

'I would avoid keeping them by the AC or heater. Direct hot or cold air isn’t beneficial. Try to find a room with a balance between light and a cooler evening temperature. I wouldn’t put it in a dark room just because it gets colder at night,' he continues.

While cooler temperatures will help trigger the growth of a new flower spike, it is important not to neglect your orchid's other needs. For example, bright light is still required to ensure essential processes like photosynthesis continue. Likewise, don't forget to increase humidity for these indoor plants, especially in the often drier air of fall. You can use this pebble humidity tray from Amazon, for example.

This 4-in-1 plant meter on Amazon can help monitor the temperature for your orchid. You're looking for a room that sits at 55-65°F at night. Near a bright east-facing windowsill can be a good spot, so long as there aren't icy drafts

You want to keep your orchid in this spot for several weeks until you spot a flower spike emerging from its base. At this point, you can reposition your orchid to a more stable, warm environment, where you should leave it to bloom. Avoid major temperature or light fluctuations at this point, which may hinder bud development or shock your plant and cause orchid flowers to fall off.

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While orchid care is particular and there are some major mistakes to avoid, like watering orchids incorrectly, there are a handful of orchid myths that aren't true. This includes the belief you need to constantly mist orchids to boost humidity levels.

It's not the most effective method and won't make a huge difference, unlike simply placing your orchid in a bathroom with a steamy shower or using a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart).

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With summer coming to an end, it's time to turn our attention to fall houseplant care. Shorter days and cooler room temperatures call for reduced watering, relocating plants, and – crucially – no more fertilizing.

Arguably, it's the biggest September houseplant mistake you can make. Feeding plants when they're slowing down and entering a period of dormancy will only cause more harm. Chemical fertilizers in particular can burn roots, leading to foliage damage and the overall decline of your plant. Ultimately, fertilizing houseplants now can weaken and kill them off.

Having said that, it's important to note that every houseplant has its own set of needs and in some cases you can give houseplants one final feed in September before fall. Here, houseplant pros explain everything you need to know.

Why You Should Stop Fertilizing in September

Even though fertilizer is a key element of your houseplant care kit, it should only be used when houseplants are actively growing. This is because fertilizer (like this indoor plant feed from Walmart) contains essential plant nutrients that support plant growth. When a plant isn't actively growing, this can overload plant roots and damage the plant.

'When a plant’s growth slows, it cannot use nutrients as quickly. Continuing to fertilize at the same frequency can cause excess salts to build up in the soil. Over time, this may damage the roots and lead to brown leaf tips, yellowing leaves, or a white crust on the surface of the soil,' explains houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

As part of fall houseplant care, it's also important to help your houseplants adjust to the changing conditions. Many houseplants struggle with sudden changes in light and temperature, which can cause drooping, leaf drop, and the general decline in health. Fertilizer on top of this can cause shock, resulting in damage like discoloring foliage.

'Too much fertilizer can also encourage weak growth when the plant does not have enough natural light to support it. More fertilizer will not make up for a lack of light. It may actually place more stress on the plant,' Rosalin explains.

For this reason, it's best not to fertilize houseplants come September – though there are a few exceptions.

The One Exception

With different indoor plants having different needs and behaviours, there are occasions where you can do one last feed in September.

'I recommend watching the plant rather than relying only on the calendar. If it has stopped producing new leaves, the soil is drying much more slowly, or its overall growth has noticeably slowed, it is probably time to pause fertilizing until spring,' says Rosalin.

'Some tropical indoor plants, including pothos, philodendrons, monsteras, and spider plants, may continue producing new growth through fall if they are kept in a warm room with plenty of light. These plants may still benefit from occasional feeding, but I would reduce the frequency and use a balanced fertilizer at half strength,' she continues.

'Other plants are more likely to slow down significantly as the days get shorter. Alocasias and caladiums may begin entering dormancy, while naturally slow growers such as ZZ plants and snake plants will usually need little or no fertilizer once their growth pauses,' Rosalin adds.

The best thing to do is research your specific plant's growing needs, and observe for new growth. But, if you are unsure, the safest option is to put the fertilizer away until spring.

'The conditions inside the home still matter. Plants growing under a full spectrum LED light (like this grow light from Amazon) may remain active longer than plants relying only on limited fall and winter sunlight,' Rosalin adds.

When to Start Fertilizing Again

To know when to start fertilizing your houseplants again, look for signs of new growth in early spring.

'Regular fertilization is necessary during the period of active growth: spring and summer. You’ll need to gradually increase feeding throughout this period, starting with small doses to help your plant awaken and adjust to new conditions,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

If you have particularly fast-growing, low-maintenance houseplants (like monsteras, palms, and pothos), you might want to opt for a slow-release, granular fertilizer over a concentrated liquid feed. This slow-release houseplant feed from Amazon, for example, can be applied in early spring, providing a consistent supply of nutrients over multiple weeks.

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Don't be fooled. Despite the garden settling down for fall, there's much to do in our indoor gardens. In particular, there are a few indoor plant jobs many people forget to do. This includes checking on the underside of leaves for common indoor plant pests and getting rid of them quickly to stop infestations taking over your entire houseplant collection.

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My Monstera deliciosa is my most prized houseplant, towering above others in my indoor garden. I follow meticulous care to keep its statement foliage looking glossy and healthy, and come September this calls for a gentle transition into fall.

If you also have a monstera in your home, you'll know sudden environmental changes (like temperature and moisture) can trigger some dramatic reactions, like drooping and yellowing foliage. To avoid this in late summer, it's important to adjust watering as your monstera's growth is slowing down, clean leaves to brighten them up, and possibly relocate your plant as daylight hours reduce.

You may even want to consider adding a humidifier to your houseplant care kit (like this portable humidifier from Walmart) as the air may become drier over the coming weeks, which these tropical plants dislike. Here, with the help of a houseplant expert, I talk through what to do with a monstera in September with five key tasks.

1. Clean Your Monstera's Foliage

I adore the huge fenestrated leaves of my monstera, but this also makes them one of the houseplants that captures dust quickly. Leaving this layer of dust on your monstera leaves can block pores, hinder photosynthesis, and make the foliage look dull.

'September is a good time to clean the leaves, especially after a summer of open windows, fans, or extra dust in the home,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

'I recommend gently wiping each leaf with a soft, damp cloth while supporting it from underneath. I also like to add a small amount of diluted neem oil (available at Walmart), which helps remove build-up and can help discourage common pests,' she adds.

Another way to clean houseplant leaves is with houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon). I like to use these because they're made of soft microfiber and wipe dust away in one swipe.

2. Reduce Watering

When it comes to watering houseplants, it's no secret a lot can go wrong. One of the biggest indoor plant mistakes is maintaining a consistent watering schedule year-round. Instead, you should adjust how often you water your plants with the seasons.

'As the days become shorter and temperatures begin to cool, the soil may take longer to dry. This usually means the monstera will need water less often than it did during summer,' says Rosalin.

'I suggest checking the soil before watering and waiting until the top two inches feel dry. The important thing is to follow the soil rather than continuing with the same summer schedule,' she advises.

I always use my Amazon soil moisture meter before watering any of my plants. The probe detects the moisture level and gives you an instant reading, so you know when it's time to pick up your watering can.

Overwatering in fall can result in houseplant root rot, turn monstera leaves yellow, and generally lead to the decline of your plant.

3. Stop Fertilizing

One of the biggest parts of fall houseplant care is putting down the fertilizer, at least as a general rule of thumb. As your monstera slows down in September, there's not necessarily a need to provide a boost of essential plant nutrients that encourage growth.

'If the monstera is still actively producing new leaves, it can continue receiving a light feeding in September. I prefer a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength (like this Miracle-Gro indoor plant fertilizer from Lowe's). However, if growth has started to slow, you can reduce the frequency or stop fertilizing until spring,' says Rosalin.

'There is no need to force new growth when the plant is naturally beginning to slow down,' she adds.

It can be a fertilizing mistake to feed your monstera during fall and winter, where the feed can burn roots, oversaturate the soil, and encourage weak growth that can't cope with the shorter and cooler days.

In the meantime, you can pick up a specific monstera fertilizer from Amazon, ready for spring.

4. Relocate Your Monstera Somewhere Brighter

In their native habitat of the tropical rainforests of Central and South America, monstera grow beneath tree canopies where they experience dappled light. This means they can tolerate lower light, but will grow best in bright, indirect light.

As daylight hours start to reduce in September, you monstera will benefit from moving to a brighter spot. This will ensure it can still perform essential processes like photosynthesis.

'A spot that provided enough light in summer may become too dim as the days get shorter. If the monstera begins leaning, stretching, or producing smaller leaves, I recommend moving it a little closer to a bright window,' says Rosalin.

'Make the change gradually and continue protecting the leaves from strong direct afternoon sun which can cause leaf scorch. If natural light is limited, a full spectrum LED grow light can help provide the extra light the plant needs during the shorter days. Rotating the plant every week or two will also help it grow more evenly,' she adds.

You can get a grow light with a timer (like this from Amazon) for more convenience, and as Rosalin notes, houseplant rotation will encourage a more symmetrical silhouette.

5. Remove Damaged Foliage

If your monstera experienced any damage over summer, such as scorched leaves, fungal leaf spot, or discolored foliage from incorrect watering, September is a good time to remove the leaves.

Damaged leaves won't recover and could be draining the plant's energy. With September conditions being milder, it's a good opportunity to use essential pruning tools (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon) to cut off the damaged foliage at the base of the plant.

Take care not to prune more than one third of the plant, as this can cause shock and result in more stress symptoms. Likewise, clean your tools afterwards to prevent the risk of pests and diseases spreading.

Removing this from the plant will also strengthen it and make it less susceptible to houseplant pest damage over fall and winter, when pest populations often surge.

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September is a good time to get your indoor garden in shape for fall. If you need to train an overgrown monstera, pick up a moss pole (like this from Amazon) to give it a support. Likewise, our tips on layering houseplants can transform your plant corner into a botanical spectacle for the home.

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Nature's own fireworks, crotons shine bright with their striking multi-colored, paddle-shaped leaves. Dazzling in vivid shades of crimson, green, ochre and pink, these tropical rainforest natives of south-east Asia pep up bright and sunlit interiors with their bold patterning and glossy foliage.

One of the showiest and best indoor plants you can grow, crotons - botanically known as Codiaeum variegatum - reward endlessly for very little attention. Requiring stable, warm and humid conditions, these indoor plants can grow to between three and six feet tall, but are governed by the size of their container.

With many intriguing variations to consider, you can find croton cultivars with narrow, broad, oak-shaped and even curly corkscrew leaves. Take a look at Croton 'Mammy' available at Walmart. A great way to kick-start any houseplant collection, they also inspire the perfect interior decorating palette this fall.

Why You Will Fall For Crotons

There are many reasons to grow crotons, but visual impact and flamboyant foliage featuring dramatic color combinations place them at the top of most plant lovers' wish lists. Bearing patches of crimson, burgundy, green, ochre and pink, they are quick to charm new and dedicated plant parents alike.

Like many of the best air-cleaning indoor plants, crotons can also filter out harmful airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene and xylene, which occur in many household materials. They help maintain air quality and moisture levels through transpiration and are a stunning, positive addition to any room.

How To Care For Crotons

Originating from Southeast Asia's tropical rainforests, crotons love a constantly bright, warm, and humid environment. They can suffer from stress and sudden leaf drop if conditions vary, but thankfully they are not one of the hardest houseplants to keep alive. Follow these simple requirements they need to thrive:

• Light: Crotons love high light levels and need them to produce their vivid foliage. 'A bright spot - so it casts a medium to strong shadow most of the day - is key,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'I think it really is the most important thing to keep in mind when growing a croton because the more light it gets, the more a croton will generally be able to tolerate other stressors.'
• Humidity & Temperature: As you would expect of a rainforest native, crotons like humid conditions. 'Average to above-average relative humidity levels are ideal - if you can keep humidity above 40/45 percent or so, you should be good,' Justin notes. 'Croton does like warm temperatures - keeping it over 65 degrees (F) or so is optimal.'
• Fertilizer: Feed with a liquid fertilizer every four to six weeks during the active growing period of late spring to early fall. Try this kelp-infused liquid feed from Amazon.
• Watering: Crotons are not the thirstiest of indoor plants, which helps to keep care simple. 'I generally water when the top 25 to 33 percent or so of the potting mix dries to the touch,' says Justin. 'If in doubt, keep your croton on the dry side rather than too wet.' This water level pot indicator from Walmart can help.
• Stability: 'Try to avoid any big changes to a croton's environment,' says Justin. 'In nature, crotons are rooted into the ground and don’t move from place to place, so moving from a bright sunroom to a dim dining room, for example, can stress it out, causing leaf loss.'

Enhance Your Decor With Crotons

One of the simplest ways to style houseplants and boost a croton's impact comes through the choice of pot.

'I’m a big fan of blue pots because blue creates a stunning contrast to the red/orange/yellow variegation in the foliage,' says Justin. 'But if a more coordinated, harmonious look suits you, you might go for a bright yellow or orange pot, for example, to echo and hype up the color the plant already has.'

He also adds: 'The same goes for the backdrop; you’ll find your croton may have a totally different (but equally beautiful) look up against a soft blue wall as an orange one.'

Mixing these houseplants for maximalists with other indoor plants with contrasting, dark green foliage makes for an eye-catching focal point. Consider grouping monstera, peace lily, Bird of Paradise and pothos with crotons and arrange on a tiered plant stand - such as this gold design from Lowe's or along a mantelpiece.

Thanks to their large, technicolor leaves, crotons are perfect for filtering sunlight. 'I’m a big fan of backlighting crotons - placing the plant where it’s in between me and the light source,' explains Justin. 'The way the light can come through the leaves is almost like a stained-glass window. So crotons are perfect for large windowsills or plant stands in front of a window. Plus, they love the light.'

It's well worth knowing how to clean houseplant leaves to keep crotons bright and healthy. As Justin explains: 'Any dust that accumulates on the leaf both decreases the plant’s appearance and decreases the amount of light it’s getting (dust acts like a filter), as well as provides habitat for pests.

'So it’s a good idea to regularly clean your croton’s leaves with a soft cloth. Cotton or microfiber should be just fine.' Try Lowe's microfibre cloths.

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No doubt you are now smitten with crotons. Why not discover our favorite houseplants to make your home feel cozy for fall, plus learn about 7 of the best houseplants with dark foliage to make your croton foliage shine even brighter?

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As we transition into fall, something very exciting happens to our Christmas cactus plants – little flower buds start to appear, gearing up for a spectacular festive display later on. But this also marks a super fragile period for these favorite houseplants. Make the wrong move now, and you could lose all of the buds and sabotage the display.

The truth is, Christmas cactus care is quite particular. Not only do you need to keep your Christmas cactus in the dark in the lead-up to its flowering season, but once you spot those flower buds, it's crucial not to move your plant. Sudden changes in light and temperature can cause the buds to drop off, leaving you with no blooms this holiday season.

It may sound simple, but there are actually quite a few factors to juggle once those buds appear. With the help of houseplant experts, I talk through the one mistake to avoid when you spot buds on your Christmas cactus and what to do instead this fall (hint: you might want to pick up this glass plant mister from Amazon if it isn't already in your houseplant care kit).

Why You Shouldn't Move Your Christmas Cactus in Fall

Christmas cacti produce flower buds between mid- to late fall, triggered by cool nights and a period of darkness. Once those buds appear at the end of the long segmented stems, it's important not to change your plant's environment too drastically.

'Moving the plant changes the angle of light hitting it, as well as the temperature and humidity the plant was previously used to,' says Nikki Norris of Root & Reach Botanicals.

'This plant's bud count is reliant on the conditions the plant is in as the buds are forming. Moving it stresses the plant out,' she adds.

Ultimately, it's a Christmas cactus mistake to change the environment suddenly. Along with bud drop, you may notice your Christmas cactus wilt, droop, or discolor.

'This is the plant signalling stress. When the Christmas cactus is stressed, it triggers ethylene production and the plant starts to form an abscission layer at the base of the buds, causing them to start dropping.'

'Moving the plant from a breezy windowsill to a warm mantel, for example, will cause the buds to start dropping within a few days. Turning the pot on that same breezy windowsill just a half turn, even when the buds are just pea-sized, can cause the buds to drop because the buds orient to the light as well as the environment they are formed in,' Nikki explains.

'The plant will redirect its energy toward adapting to new conditions rather than blooming,' adds Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

Instead, once you spot Christmas cactus buds, you should focus on providing the best fall care.

Fall Care Tips for Christmas Cactus

During fall, our Christmas cactus plants start to wake up and get ready for winter blooming. To ensure you get that much-anticipated display, the experts say there are a few environmental conditions to maintain:

• Light: After 6-8 weeks of 12-hour daily darkness to trigger flowering in early fall, gradually acclimate your Christmas cactus to bright, indirect light. This will help the flower buds swell and eventually open. 'Place the pot on an east- or west-facing windowsill. If it's located next to a south-facing window, shield the plant from direct sunlight in the afternoon,' advises Marina. If needed, you can use this Amazon grow light for some extra exposure or use these Wayfair sheer curtains to diffuse direct sun.
• Temperature: To encourage blooming, provide your Christmas cactus with cooler nights. 'Your Christmas cactus needs lower temperatures (around 55–65°F) from September to November to ensure abundant blooming,' says Marina. But, you should avoid sudden temperature fluctuations and drafts, which can cause bud drop. This Walmart room thermometer can help you monitor this.
• Humidity: Another way to help your Christmas cactus retain its buds is by increasing humidity for these indoor plants, especially as indoor heating significantly dries the air in fall. 'You can boost humidity by placing a pebble tray (like this from Amazon) filled with water near the pot or use a room humidifier,' suggests Marina.
• Fertilizing: Once fall comes along, you can stop fertilizing your Christmas cactus. 'Pause feeding throughout fall and the blooming period to allow the plant to focus its energy on flower buds,' Marina says. Continuing to feed your plant will encourage growth over blooming.
• Watering: Don't forget a Christmas cactus is a succulent and stores water in its fleshy stems. However, Marina notes you should 'keep the soil consistently moist once buds appear.' You can use this Amazon soil moisture meter to check its potting mix regularly and add some water when the top inch or so of soil has dried out.

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As well as finding the optimal spot for your Christmas cactus to bloom, you can place a Christmas cactus in the best spot for Feng Shui, where it is thought to bring good luck this holiday season. And if you're struggling to get your Christmas cactus to bloom, it might be that you need to adjust its growing environment – luckily, there's plenty of time to do this now before the holidays.

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Houseplants play an important part in interior design schemes. Much like artwork and books, a well-chosen plant or indoor tree can elevate a room – and quite literally add life.

What plant to place where requires thought. Obviously, different species and sizes of plants evoke different moods – and most importantly thrive in different conditions.

One plant that has attracted attention recently is the beautiful indoor olive tree grown in pots. Whether you're after a Mediterranean aesthetic, prefer a chic minimalist approach or something more traditional, this sculptural beauty, with its silvery-green foliage, will give a room a sense of grandeur.

Discover from experts how to choose the best spot, size and scale for an indoor Olea europea, like this Koroneiki Greek Olive Tree from Trees.com (formerly Fast Growing Trees) and how to style it for maximum impact.

1. Why Opt For An Olive Tree?

A staple in sun-loving Mediterranean gardens, olive trees (Olea europaea) are having a moment in interior design schemes, bringing their old world charm to our homes.

'There’s something inherently romantic about an olive tree — it evokes an old vineyard, the French countryside, places that feel timeless and connected to the landscape,' says Marina Hanisch, founder, Marina Hanisch Interiors.

'It’s a quiet gesture, but one that gives a room a sense of history and soul, as though it has always belonged there.'

Marina also likes the way an indoor olive tree allows the outdoors to speak to the interior. 'It's the idea of nature meeting architecture,' she says. 'It can become a statement in the center of a space or read almost as a sculpture in the corner, bringing height, movement and dimension without feeling overly green or leafy.'

This Maurino olive tree from Trees.com can be grown indoors in a pot or outside.

Interior designer, Marie Flanigan, founder, Marie Flanigan Interiors loves the way an olive tree brings an immediate sense of life, warmth, and natural beauty to an interior.

'Its sculptural form and silvery foliage add softness and movement while still feeling refined and architectural,' says Marie. 'By nature of its branching structure, an olive tree allows beautiful natural light to filter through, making it a wonderful way to fill a space without visually blocking it.'

2. How To Choose the Best Place

The best location for an indoor olive tree aesthetically and the best place for it to thrive may not be the same. However, it's important to marry the two. Constantly picking up dried leaves from a suffering plant is not a good look. So first consider where you would like your tree to go, then check whether the conditions are optimal before settling on that spot.

'Standing an olive tree alone in a corner, beside a window, or even centered in a larger space where it can really be treated as sculpture looks beautiful,' says Marina. 'However, with a living olive tree, natural light is essential. So I always consider where it will thrive before deciding on placement.'

'An indoor olive tree craves full sun,' says Marina Prokaten, plant expert at Plantum. 'Place it in your sunniest south-facing window, and don’t deny it the opportunity to bask in the sunlight - otherwise it will respond with stunted growth and cheerless looks.'

Hilton Carter, author, Living Wild suggests a south or west-facing room for an olive tree. 'A northern-facing room will never receive direct sunlight, so plants that require direct sun won’t thrive there,' he says.

At H45cm x D33cm, this rustic braided rattan pedestal planter from Anthropologie would look beautiful with a small olive tree.

3. Choosing the Size And Scale

Once you've identified the best spot for your olive tree, you can consider the size and scale. This type of indoor tree, won't grow quickly, so you don't need to be concerned about your Olea europa outgrowing the space, like some other houseplants would.

'I consider the architecture and scale of the room first, making sure the tree feels intentional rather than simply filling an empty corner,' says Marie. 'I love a substantial olive tree with an interesting trunk and an organic, slightly imperfect shape, especially when it has enough room to breathe.'

Marina also prefers a larger, more mature-looking tree with an irregular trunk and an airy canopy. 'Something that has character and feels as though it could have been there for years,' says Marina. 'The scale should feel intentional and architectural rather than decorative.'

This Arbequina olive tree from Trees.com can be grown indoors all year round.

4. How To Style An Olive Tree

The way you style an olive tree and the pot you choose, even if it's a stylish oversized planter, obviously depends on what else is in the room. Olive trees are the perfect specimen for a refined Mediterranean aesthetic. Yet they can work in modern and traditional interior schemes too.

'This plant can move between aesthetics; it looks completely at home with limestone, plaster, aged woods and linen, but it can also soften very clean, contemporary architecture,' says Marina.

'An aged limestone planter is beautiful for grounding an olive tree; the weight, texture and patina bring in that lived-in, historic quality and add to that sense of age and romance.

'There is an old-world quality to it that feels classic and romantic, almost transporting, while the sparseness of the branches keeps it feeling modern.

'That juxtaposition is what makes it so beautiful to me: it can make a new space feel more storied, or a traditional space feel a little more relaxed. To me, it’s that mix of nature, architecture and history that makes an olive tree such a good choice.'

This Barnacle Skorpio planter from Anthropologie has a weathered appearance that would suit a mature tree.

Marie also tends to keep the styling quite simple. 'I often place an olive tree in a beautiful antique ceramic vessel with age and patina, which adds another layer of texture and interest,' says Marie. 'The goal is for the arrangement to feel collected and effortless, as though it has naturally found its place within the room.'

In one of Hilton Carter's projects, the interior stylist selected a small olive tree for the kitchen table in a light-filled room. He dressed it in a white clay pedestal planter and styled the top of the soil with tonally compatible small white stones.

'I chose an olive because it’s a perfect tie-in with food, as well as a great indoor plant in a room with abundant direct sunlight,' he says. 'When working with small planters that will sit on a table where guests may be eating, I typically like to hide the soil with stones or moss. This gives it a clean, polished look and helps to deter pests.'

5. How to Care For An Indoor Olive Tree

Accustomed to hot dry summers, olive trees can adapt well to dry indoor air. 'Simply keep your plant away from harsh heating vents or cold window drafts,' says Marina at Plantum.

During the vegetative period, a potted olive tree requires regular, but moderate watering.

'As a drought-tolerant plant, it handles underwatering far better than overwatering,' says Marina. 'Always allow the top inch of soil to dry out between soakings.

'In winter, reduce irrigation significantly, but never allow the root ball to dry out completely. If your tree looks sparse, leggy, or cheerless from a lack of energy, transition it outdoors once nighttime temperatures stay above 50°F (10°C) - acclimating it gradually to full sun.'

Alternatively, maximize indoor exposure using a sun-drenched south-facing window paired with a full-spectrum grow light.

Shop Beautiful Planters

However you choose to style your indoor olive tree, ensure it's large enough for the space and it will infuse it with elegance – and more.

'An olive tree brings an organic quality that helps a room feel layered, collected, and connected to the outdoors,' says Marie, perfectly summing up why this plant instantly makes a room feel more expensive.

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As summer comes to an end and we start to retreat indoors, all of my attention turns to my beloved houseplants. Fall can be a challenging time for them, with lower light levels being the biggest hurdle. So, to navigate this seasonal shift, I always work through a fall houseplant care checklist that takes care of my plants' needs.

These tasks look after indoor plants of all kinds during the fall season. From less frequent watering, to pruning away summer damage, and even improving humidity for your moisture-loving plants, there's much to do over the coming weeks to keep your indoor garden looking happy and healthy.

With this summer having been particularly scorching, you might find your houseplants are a little more worn out than in previous years. So, with your houseplant care kit in hand (especially a houseplant watering can, like this metal one on Amazon), now is the time to start rejuvenating them before the harshest conditions of winter arrive – you might even get one last burst of new leaves.

1. Clean Houseplant Leaves

If you're anything like me, remembering to clean your houseplant leaves can fall to the back of your mind until you suddenly spot a layer of dust dulling their foliage.

'Fall is a great time to clean the leaves of your indoor plants. Dust can block your plants from doing all the great photosynthesis they need to. So, before the says get shorter, take a damp microfiber cloth (from Walmart) and wipe down all the leaves,' says Lindsey Chastain, plant expert and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

'If you have fuzzy leaves like African violets, don't spray or use water. Just use a soft brush (like this one from Amazon)' she adds.

I picked up these soft Amazon houseplant dusting gloves last year and they've made it super simple to remove dust from leaves in one swipe.

Another reason fall is a good time to clean houseplants is because it's a busy time for houseplant pests, as they retreat indoors to the warmth of your home.

Check underneath plant leaves for any hiding insects (especially spider mites which like dust) and act accordingly to get rid of them. Our guide to getting rid of spider mites has more advice you may find helpful.

2. Prune Damaged Leaves Only

Even if you follow summer houseplant care correctly, many indoor plants can experience leaf scorch, droop, and generally look tired after a hot summer. In early fall, it's time to remove these damaged leaves.

'Stick to a light clean-up, just snipping off dry, yellow leaves, or dead blooms to let more light reach the healthy parts of the plant,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'Hold off on heavy shaping or cutting back main stems right now. Big cuts prompt fresh, weak growth, and your plant won't have the energy to keep those new shoots alive through winter,' she explains.

While it's true some houseplants will put out the last few new leaves for the season in early fall, major pruning may only weaken the plant before winter. If you need to shape your plant to encourage more growth, it's best to wait until spring.

Instead, keep your pruning minimal. Focus on removing damaged and diseased plant material using essential pruning tools, like these bypass pruning shears from Amazon. I also like these micro-tip plant snips from Lowe's for more precise cuts, such as removing spent orchid blooms.

3. Bring Houseplants Back Indoors

Houseplants love to spend some time outdoors in summer, soaking up the sun and some fresh air. But, in late summer-early fall, it's important to move your houseplants back indoors to protect them from colder conditions.

'Check them very carefully before bringing them inside,' advises Lindsey. 'Check the undersides of leaves, look at the stems, and look at the surface of your dirt. Look for things like spider mites, mealy bugs, and gnats. Anything that would be easier to deal with outside before you bring the plant in and bring all of those pests inside,' she says.

It can be a good idea to shower your houseplants when you bring them back in, removing pests, dirt, and debris, and refreshing them for fall indoors.

You may also want to use this organic neem oil spray from Amazon on your plant's leaves as a precaution. It deters and gets rid of a wide range of houseplant pests.

4. Reposition Your Plants for Better Light

Although daylight doesn't deplete in fall as much as in winter, it will gradually decline with fewer hours of the bright light your plants need to perform essential plant processes. For this reason, it's important to reposition houseplants accordingly.

'Light is the biggest seasonal change indoors. A plant that was happy a few feet from a window in summer may need to move closer in fall,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

'I like to rotate houseplants, clean dusty leaves, and move sun-loving plants closer to bright, indirect light,' she adds.

Houseplant rotation in particular can be a useful method in fall. It consists of turning your plants around every few days so they receive equal light, resulting in a more symmetrical, healthy shape.

Grow lights for houseplants can also help boost light levels at this time of year (I like this Amazon grow light with a timer). Or, use a tiered plant shelf (like this from Wayfair) to create more space for plants by your brightest windows.

5. Water Less Frequently

You may have found your houseplants were extra thirsty in the summer heat, with soil drying out more quickly and active growth requiring lots of hydration (though, more water is not always the solution to why your houseplants are thirstier).

As we move into fall, and room temperatures cool down, your houseplants will naturally need less water. It's important to reduce your watering frequency accordingly to prevent houseplant root rot and pest problems.

'In fall, I start checking the soil before watering instead of following a fixed schedule. Plants usually dry out more slowly because there is less light and less active growth. I still water deeply when needed, but I wait until the top inch or two of soil feels dry for most common houseplants,' Rosalin suggests.

Checking soil before watering houseplants is the best method to ensure your plants stay hydrated without waterlogging the soil and causing hydrophobic houseplants.

I prefer to use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check the soil, as it can give me a reading for further down in the pot. You can also opt for a plant pot with a saucer (Wayfair has lovely glazed ceramic ones) to use the bottom watering houseplants method.

6. Boost Humidity Levels

Indoor humidity levels can be problematic in fall and winter.

'Fall is usually associated with poor humidity: it either drops too low or rises to the point of dampness,' says Marina Prokaten.

It's the drier air that can be tricky for tropical indoor plants in particular. To save foliage going wrinkly and crisping up, consider ways to increase humidity for indoor plants in fall.

This includes installing this portable humidifier from Walmart, placing your plants on this Amazon pebble humidity tray, or moving your plants closer together.

Just remember excess moisture can attract certain pests, so it's wise to use this humidity meter from Amazon to monitor levels in your home.

7. Stop Fertilizing Your Plants

While houseplant fertilizer (like this Miracle-Gro indoor plant feed from Walmart) provides a boost of essential plant nutrients through the active growth season of spring and summer, fall calls for less feeding because our plants are slowing down.

'Houseplants do not need fertilizer on a set schedule. As we move into the fall and plants are growing less because there's lower light and shorter days, it does not need the same feeding schedule as it does during the growing seasons of spring and summer,' Lindsey Chastain explains. 'Fertilizer is intended to encourage growth, and fall is not a growth period,' she adds.

It can actually cause your plants harm to fertilize them in fall, as Marina Prokaten notes: 'The roots aren’t able to absorb all the nutrients they receive from fertilization, so extra feeding doesn't do it any good.'

A build-up of salts can burn plant roots and cause discolored foliage.

Shop Our Houseplant Edit

You can embrace the incoming season by incorporating some of the best houseplants for fall color in your home. They're all simple enough to care for and bring fiery hues to your interiors.

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Create an easy flow between your home and nature with a layered approach to using houseplants for biophilic design. Using plenty of green leafy foliage in your home has well-established benefits and has become one of the most popular biophilic design trends recently. It's part of the growing trend to boost wellbeing through nature, either inside or out.

Biophilic design is the science-backed principle based on the fact that we are innately drawn to nature, and that environments designed around that connection drive measurable gains in wellbeing. It's an easy win, tapping into bold, contemporary plant styling and immersive living environments to redefine your interior aesthetic, and works however small your space.

Think of it as the intentional integration of nature into your home. The latest biophilic garden design trends focus on lush, sculptural, and calming varieties of plants. Aim to replicate the sense of immersion in nature you feel outside. One tall, leafy houseplant in a woven basket planter (using natural materials is important too) has the ability to transform a room as well as reduce stress and improve your mood.

Why Using Houseplants For Biophilic Design Is Good For You

'As our lives become increasingly fast-paced and overstimulating, people are looking to their homes as places to unplug, recharge, and reconnect with nature,' says Giovanni Medina Marenco, Miami-based design director at 1508 London. 'In turn, designers are embracing thoughtful choices that create more meaningful emotional and sensory experiences.'

Giovanni incorporates biophilic design principles into his work, most recently at Mandarin Oriental Residences, Beverly Hills, where jade plants were used in the private courtyards that serve as tranquil sanctuaries, offering a peaceful retreat from the energy of the city while bringing nature directly into the home.

Using houseplants for biophilic design is a big trend in interior design, as it lets you create a seamless connection between indoor and outdoor living, fostering a sense of serenity and reflection. Some houseplants are better than others at achieving this. Here's our expert list of the best houseplants for biophilic design to tap into this trend in your own home.

1. Jade Plant

'The jade plant is intentionally selected not only for its resilience and sculptural form, but also for its symbolism,' says Giovanni. 'Long associated with prosperity, endurance, growth, balance, calm, and stability, this plant is revered across different cultures as a symbol of fortune.

'In Feng Shui and Chinese culture, the jade plant is often referred to as the “money plant” because of its coin-shaped leaves and deep green hue, and is considered by some to be one of the luckiest indoor plants to keep in the home.'

Larger jade plants with a shapely outline resemble miniature trees, so this can be used to great advantage in biophilic design. Smaller plants can be arranged on shelves and side tables to layer up indoor greenery in a way that enhances the space.

Try this vibrant Sunset Jade Plant with red-orange accents from The Sill to enhance your indoor plant collection

2. Fern

'I have a special interest in biophilic design and the positive impact it can have on our mental health,' says interior designer Jane Atherton. 'In a world where we spend 80-90% of our time indoors, bringing the outdoors into our homes can actually help to reduce stress and improve our cognitive function and creativity.'

One of the most direct ways of doing this is by growing houseplants. 'My personal favorites are ferns as they're fairly easy to grow, are very forgiving and the textural quality of the fronds creates visual and tactile interest,' says Jane. 'Not only do plants help to improve air quality, but they can have a powerful effect on our mood too.'

Try a Boston fern like this one from The Sill, which Jane suggests planting in a lovely Bergs Potter Terracotta planter as it makes the perfect combination with the leafy greens. These durable pots are designed for both indoor and outdoor use.

Other ways to incorporate biophilic design principles in your interior are by creating an indirect connection to nature. 'This can be through using natural materials, shapes and patterns,' says Jane. 'Wood grain, wicker, and rope are all evocative of nature. Naturalistic shapes, colors and patterns form the foundations of biophilic design.'

3. Dragon Tree

Indoor plants are an important element in biophilic design because they truly bring nature into your interior space. Bringing nature inside adds a nice touch to your home, making it more aesthetically pleasing and welcoming.

'Live plants have been shown to reduce stress and anxiety, increase productivity, and boost mood,' says Tanya Shively, creator of Well Designed Homes. 'They also contribute to a healthier indoor environment by not only absorbing CO₂ but also emitting oxygen. Plants are natural air purifiers that can effectively remove harmful toxins, making them a simple yet effective solution for improving your home's air quality.'

Tanya is a fan of Dracaena marginata (also known as dragon tree plant) to add a strong vertical element and a lush tropical look. 'This popular plant has slender woody stems and spiky green leaves edged with deep red. It can grow up to 6 feet tall, making it ideal for filling a corner with a high ceiling without feeling overwhelming, thanks to its airy foliage.'

You don't need a jungle in your home to reap the benefits of plants, according to Tanya. 'Even a few well-placed plants can significantly improve indoor air quality and your sense of well-being. A tall plant in an otherwise empty corner is a soft touch of nature that feels more welcoming than a lamp or a piece of furniture. A smaller plant on a countertop or a shelf adds that spot of greenery that breaks up the hard surfaces and sharp edges of books or other typical shelf décor.'

4. Fig Plant

'True biophilic designs immerse people with plants and nature,' says Shane Pliska, CEO of Planterra Interior Landscaping. 'Plants soften an interior, but also give it life. My company provides plants for interiors to contribute to biophilia.'

Shane is also the creator of the Planterra Conservatory, a glass-enclosed botanical venue in West Bloomfield, Michigan. This architectural landmark has become one of the most sought-after event spaces in the region and a living embodiment of Shane's biophilic design philosophy.

For a true statement plant, a mature Ficus is top of Shane's list. 'The beautiful leaf canopy immediately changes the scale of the room, while the twists, turns and imperfections in an older trunk give the plant character. It should look like a living sculpture, not a clone from a nursery. Perfect plants can feel artificial. It's the twists and irregular growth of a mature specimen that make it interesting.'

The Ficus family includes not only the iconic fiddle leaf fig (like this one available at The Sill), but also rubber plants and weeping figs.

5. Monstera

There are Monsteras; then there is 'Thai Constellation', a variegated mutation of the standard green Monstera deliciosa. This plant has been the “it plant” for years now, and this trend shows no sign of slowing down. It's a natural choice as one of the best houseplants for biophilic design, as it oozes feel-good vibes.

Easy to grow, the leaves grow to 2 feet in length and almost as wide. The unfurling of each leaf is an exciting event, with ever-evolving fenestrations and variegation patterns, which makes it a must-have for anyone seeking the best houseplants for biophilic design.

It's also a personal favorite of Chuck Pavlich, director of new product development at Terra Nova Nurseries. 'Thai Constellation' has been the undisputed king of the houseplant craze in recent years, and it's still one of the most dramatic of all houseplants on the market. It's easy to grow, and very showy in a good way.

'I think biophilic interiors continue to resonate with homeowners because of the feeling associated with plants. Houseplants are the antidote to modern life. For Millennials and Gen Z, life is complicated, but houseplants aren’t.'

6. Fittonia

If you're looking for a small and colorful option for indoor plant shelf ideas, as a side table detail or a bedside cupboard, get acquainted with the benefits of the lovely fittonia plant. As well as adding a beautiful detail to your interior, it helps improve indoor air quality by filtering minor impurities. If you live in a small apartment, it's one of the best houseplants for biophilic design.

'The fittonia, also known as nerve plant, has showy, jewel-like foliage that makes it a good fit for tabletops and terrariums. Bred to be compact, nerve plants feature spectacular variegations in green, ruby, white, pink and silver,' says Chuck.

'The leaves are small, usually not more than an inch long and half an inch across. When dry, this plant feigns death, yet when watered, does a “miraculous” recovery. So much drama for one houseplant,' adds Chuck. Ignore these diva-ish tendencies and add one (or two) to your plant collection.

Try a bundle of three red, pink, and white fittonia plants from Amazon to add visual interest to your plant display

7. Philodendron

Philodendrons are gorgeously lush and infinitely adaptable tropical plants with hundreds of varieties, with the hanging heartleaf Philodendron one of the most popular.

'These easy-care plants have softer, more diverse leaf shapes and colors,' says Tanya. 'They can be upright, climbers, or trailing from high shelves. They like humidity, so a shelf in a bathroom with ample light can be a perfect spot to add one of these for a touch of natural greenery.'

Chuck is a big fan of Philodendron ‘Pink Princess’, an unusual black-leaf Philodendron with hot pink variegation.

'This variety is certainly one of the most tolerant of all philodendrons in cultivation. It thrives in low light, although it will show its true ‘Pink Princess’ colors in moderately bright light. It has a vining habit, though not rampant, and is easy to propagate in a glass of water if you want to multiply your plant collection.'

Biophilic Design: Think Of Your Home As A Mini Eco-System

Using houseplants for biophilic design will continue to resonate, as it offers a way to bring the benefits of nature indoors, especially for those living in the city. Here are some final thoughts from Mahwish Syed, an interior designer specializing in biophilic and circadian-aligned spaces.

'Our homes are living ecosystems. They are not a passive backdrop but an active participant in our health. Modern lifestyle divorces us from nature. I believe we are undergoing a paradigm shift in bringing nature back into our homes. This is why biophilic design continues to resonate, because we are not just decorating with nature but honoring our ancient biology.'

Mahwish has used Ficus Benjamina, a calamondin orange tree, Dracaena, and palms in her own home to evoke the lush tropical oasis that is synonymous with biophilic design. 'I had a large calamondin tree that my canary Sunny loved to perch in. For table tops, I also love the architecturally elegant snake plant. I adore orchids too – particularly scented oncidiums, fragrant cattleyas, and dendrobiums.'

You may also be interested in the latest houseplant trends as well as indoor plant styling ideas to find out more about how to turn your precious collection into a real design feature.

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When the air conditioning is running all summer, your home can become a challenging environment for houseplants. Constantly moving air can dry foliage, while rooms with closed windows may have less humidity than tropical plants would encounter outdoors. And yet there is one group of houseplants that can handle these modern indoor conditions surprisingly well: philodendrons.

Not every philodendron is equally adaptable, but many of the familiar varieties are remarkably forgiving. They can cope with the lower light found in many homes, tolerate average household humidity, and generally don't fall apart if you occasionally forget to water them. That makes them particularly well suited to the way we actually live now, when keeping the house comfortable for people can mean creating conditions that aren't quite so comfortable for tropical plants.

There's another reason philodendrons work so well indoors: There is a variety for almost every decorating style and available space. Trailing types can spill from a shelf or hanging planter, while self-heading varieties make handsome tabletop or floor plants. Choose the right philodendron, give it good indirect light, and keep it out of the direct path of your AC vent, and you have a popular indoor houseplant that is healthy and can look good without demanding a lot of attention. Eager to get started? Shop The Sill for a classic Heartleaf Philodendron as an easy-care addition to your home.

Why Philodendrons Are So Adaptable

‘Philodendrons are some of my favorite plants for indoor spaces because they are just really forgiving,’ says Dee Ferguson, owner and founder of rOOTS KC, an independent houseplant shop in Kansas City, Missouri.

‘A lot of them naturally grow under the canopy of larger plants and trees, so they are used to getting filtered light instead of direct sun, making them a perfect placement for a living space. They can adapt to different light levels and normal household humidity.’

Horticulturist Justin Hancock of Costa Farms agrees, pointing out that philodendrons are a large and diverse group. ‘It’s a little tough to generalize because Philodendrons are a big group of plants and not all are as adaptable as others,’ he explained.

‘But the super-adaptable ones, such as Philodendron hederaceum, Philodendron Birkin, and others, offer the one-two punch of tolerating both the lower light levels commonly found in homes and the humidity levels that are lower than the tropical environments they’re native to.’

That tolerance makes common philodendrons especially useful in air-conditioned rooms. They don't require you to turn your home into a greenhouse just to keep them happy. Still, lower humidity tolerance isn't the same as loving bone-dry air.

‘Yes, it is true that they’re tolerant of low humidity, but with a caveat: It totally depends on the variety,’ Hancock says. ‘As a general rule of thumb, the thicker or waxier the leaf, the better that variety will hold up to low humidity.’

Ferguson also recommends choosing varieties carefully. ‘Many of the common philodendrons tolerate normal household humidity really well, which is one of the reasons they make such good houseplants and ship so successfully,’ she explained.

‘I would not say that every philodendron loves low humidity though. Some of the velvet leaf and more unusual varieties are going to look and grow better with a higher-level humidity.’

Keep Them Away From the AC Vent

The fact that philodendrons tolerate air-conditioned homes doesn't mean they should sit directly underneath an air vent. A continuous blast of cold air can stress the foliage, particularly when the air coming from the vent is substantially colder than the rest of the room.

‘Ideally, they should be far enough away that the air coming out of the vent doesn’t move their leaves,’ says Justin. ‘Since plants in their natural environs aren’t exposed to situations where they suddenly get blasts of air that are hotter or colder than the ambient temperature, this can stress them, causing the leaves to yellow, brown, or drop prematurely.’

Ferguson says you don't have to banish your plant to the opposite side of the room. ‘A few feet away is usually fine as long as the plant is not getting that constant blast of dry air.’

Choose the Right Philodendron For Your Space

For a beginner, Ferguson recommends the classic heartleaf philodendron, Philodendron hederaceum. ‘It is really forgiving and can handle a lot of different spaces.’

She also likes Philodendron Brasil for its variegated foliage and Philodendron micans for its dark, velvety leaves. Her favorite, however, is Philodendron Birkin. ‘I love the white pinstriping on the leaves and it looks so good as a home decor piece. It feels a little fancy without being a plant that’s impossible to take care of.’

Hancock points to heartleaf, Brasil, Birkin and other adaptable varieties as good choices, while noting that different growth habits suit different locations. Trailing types can work in hanging planters or on shelves, while self-heading varieties such as Birkin are better suited to tabletops, windowsills and, as they mature, the floor.

Find Philodendron Brasil and a range of other philodendrons at The Home Depot.

Water According To The Plant, Not The Calendar

Philodendrons are forgiving, but they aren't indestructible. Ferguson recommends allowing the top couple of inches of soil to dry before watering again, while Hancock lets most philodendrons get about 50 percent dry before watering. Either way, don't keep the roots constantly soggy, and use a pot with a drainage hole.

In winter, pay particular attention to watering. ‘Our homes get darker, plants grow more slowly, and people sometimes continue watering on the same schedule they used all summer,’ Ferguson says.

‘That can cause problems really quickly. I always tell people to check the soil instead of watering just because it is Sunday or because it has been a week.’

Take the guesswork out of watering with the Simply Conserve Moisture Meter found at Target.

For a modern home where the AC runs much of the summer, the biggest advantage of all may be this: A philodendron doesn't need perfect conditions.

Just be sure to take care of the five summer houseplant care mistakes and your philodendron can fit comfortably into the way you already live.

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Few indoor plants have the impact and appeal of an areca palm, especially during hot summer months. This graceful, arching palm has an alluring, visual charm coupled with mood boosting benefits that can help revitalise your inside space and transport you to restful, tropical climes.

More refined than other indoor palms, with their strong, architectural lines, these relatively slow growing plants exude calmness, peace and serenity, and thankfully are pretty easy to look after.

One of the most elegant houseplants that can cool your house and purify the air, these palms (also known as the butterfly palm, or botanically Areca catechu) are celebrated by home stylists, interior designers and plant experts alike. Whether you opt for a small plant, such as this 12''areca palm from Walmart on a sunny desk top or large specimen, try this areca palm from The Sill displayed proudly in a vacant corner, you can revitalize your living space into a cool, leafy retreat and soak up the benefits.

How Areca Palms Can Transform a Home in Summer

A fabulous choice for looks alone, this palm also has valuable cooling and air cleaning properties that makes it useful and beneficial to have in our homes, especially during hot summer months.

'I think the areca palm is the ultimate summer statement plant because it easily brings tropical vibes indoors with its feathery, arching fronds,' says plant expert Paris Lalicata. 'It also purifies the air giving your home that fresh outdoor air feeling even when you’re stuck inside on a sunny day!'

Using a process known as transpiration, these tropical indoor plants can help rebalance humidity levels within the home.

'Like all houseplants, Areca palm absorbs moisture from the potting mix via its roots and then releases much of that moisture (along with fresh oxygen) into the air via its fronds,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'This is especially helpful for rooms that have an air conditioner running a lot, as the palm replenishes humidity stripped out by the air conditioning unit.'

'It’s noticeably more delicate looking than a kentia palm, lady palm, or majesty palm, for example,' says Justin. 'It also has a sense of fullness you don’t necessarily see with other palms because it’s typically grown with multiple plants per pot, rather than just having a trunk or two.'

'Since the palm has so many fronds and leaflets, it may be adding more humidity than a smaller, less leafy plant,' says houseplant expert Lisa Eldred Steinkopf.

How To Keep Your Areca Palm Thriving

Native to the tropical forests of Singapore, Malaysia and Papua New Guinea, these palms love warmth, high light levels and humidity. Knowing this background is key to these indoor tropical plants thriving.

'In summer, your Areca Palm can do double-duty in front of a bright window by absorbing solar radiation coming in, rather than having it heat up your room, and giving you natural privacy with its size,' explains Justin. 'As a houseplant, the more light it gets, the better.'

He also cautions that, 'Areca Palm isn’t a fan of low-light areas, so it’s probably not going to be happy in a windowless bathroom or the far side of a living room, den, or bedroom.' An Aspect LED Grow Light from The Sill will bring light to darker spots.

Moisture levels around the plant and its roots need to monitored, so investing in a meter such as this Probe Moisture Meter from Amazon, can be useful.

'Don’t let your palm dry out and keep the humidity up around the plant,' says Lisa. 'Add more plants around the palm or place it on a pebble tray to help. A humidifier would also help.' Paris also adds that, 'palms grow best in a warm, humid environment so avoid rooms that get too cold or dry,' says Paris. 'Consider a space heater if the room will get below 65F degrees.'

Find plastic plant humidity saucers at Walmart.

How An Areca Palm Can Refresh Your Interior Decor

The Areca palm is the indoor plant that will instantly transform a light filled room. 'The secret is in those beautiful soft fronds that arch out gracefully. They help to break up hard lines in your space and fill empty areas with airy foliage. Just having those big tropical leaves indoors makes a room feel closer to nature,' says Paris.

This tall indoor plant makes an impressive statement displayed on its own, as Paris explains. 'Large specimens are great as floor plants, filling empty corners or elevated with plant stands depending on the space and window size, but smaller varieties look great on desks and side tables.'

Alternatively, try showcasing this palm as part of a curated plant collection.

'If you want to up the biophilic effect, give it some friends and create a grouping; either multiple areca palms or an areca palm paired with some of your other favorite houseplants. In nature, you never see a single plant all by itself,' says Justin.

'The effect of having more, smaller fronds compared to fewer, larger fronds is perfect for adding a tropical touch in a softer way , and for contrasting coarser-leafed houseplants like Monstera, Bird of Paradise, or Fiddle Leaf Fig,' he adds.

Walmart's Easy Care Air Purifying 12 Plant collection is a great starting point and multi-tiered metal plant stand such as this from Target makes arranging them easy.

With their vibrant green fronds breaking into many slender leaflets, the butterfly palm is a firm favorite with interior designers.

'The foliage is adaptable and can complement almost any color,' explains Paris. 'I personally like a tropical turquoise to make the foliage pop or burnt oranges and warm yellows for an earthy feel.'

Indoor planters come in all sizes, finishes and materials. This Large Pallas Floor Planter from The Sill comes with a bamboo stand for added height and drama. Alternatively try Anthropologie's striking Slatted Acacia Diamond planter.

If you've fallen for the charms of an areca palm, discover How to grow a palm tree to ensure the best results and consider adding a sago palm to your collection.

And our curated houseplant care kit will show you everything you need to give them the best care possible.

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It's all well and good knowing a thing or two about how to look after and propagate houseplants. But if you really want your indoor plants to bring the wow factor, there are a few styling tricks you need to learn. Once mastered, friends and neighbors will be convinced you've hired a professional to achieve such a manicured, high-end look.

I've spoken to interior designers to find out how they work with houseplants to get that polished, curated feel without spending a fortune. Their advice is incredibly easy to follow in any home, with any indoor plants – and some of it might surprise you.

First up, pots. Yes, that's where to begin. Start with the pots and the rest will follow. Search out the most desirable houseplant containers (my money's on this Footed Bowl Concrete Planter from Anthropologie), then we'll move on to all the tricks of the trade, including everything you need to style your houseplants with finesse.

Choose Pots Wisely

Your choice of houseplant pots can make or break a plant. Size, material, color and shape all make a huge difference. This is where to begin if you want houseplants that make your home look high end.

If there's even an inch of plastic on display, you'll instantly cheapen your collection. Make sure any inner nursery pots sit well below the rims of your ceramic pots – and don't even think of using plastic as a pot holder.

Consider the style of your space and match your pots to that look. Cohesion is key if you want to achieve a classy result, and your plant pots should continue the design narrative that's already in place.

So a mid-century style living room is perfectly enhanced by planters with a 1950s or 1960s feel, either vintage finds or something like the shapely Hasselbukett from Ikea. Or you can always play it safe and classy with a collection of neutral pots, adding interest with texture: this glazed terracotta plant pot from H&M is a good example

Interior designer Gargi Joglekar of Modern Design Homes shares her approach when designing with houseplants:

'Starting with a pot, not a plant is a wise decision. When selecting a planter I think about material and finish. Matte black ceramic gives a modern, minimalist look. and if your window frames are in the same finish, that creates cohesion. Rattan baskets can also work if there are a lot of wooden elements in the room.'

Shane Pliska is CEO of Planterra Interior Landscaping also begins with the pots when dressing a room:

'Keep planter tones consistent in a room. If you decide on terracotta for example, have all the plants in terracotta, even if the rims and decorative finishes are different. A common color theme makes the plantscape feel more cohesive.'

If you're planning to use a large plant as a centrepiece – for a large coffee table perhaps – then that pot needs to be spotlight-worthy. Look for statement pots like this Low Evoke Pot from Lulu and Georgia that are works of art in their own right and you can't fail to elevate your space.

Think About Scale

Styling your indoor plants using scale simply means matching the size of your houseplants to your room dimensions, furniture and neighboring objects. This creates balance and harmony within a space. It also means choosing a pot that's the right size for the plant. Shane explains:

'Invest in pots with appropriate scale. The biggest amateur give-away is a pot that looks too small, even if it's technically large enough for the plant's roots.'

Scale is also about relative size, which is why a tiny money plant placed next to a large fiddle-leaf fig never works. Instead, group your plants according to similar sizes, or step them down gradually to lead the eye peacefully around the room. Ikea has a good basic range of pots ranging from 2-18in (5cm-44cm) in diameter.

Make Use of Vertical Space

We all know about floor space and the mantelpiece, but there's much more vertical space available in our homes that's perfect for plants. Just like in a garden, that third dimension offers so much flexibility, linking your indoor greenery within a room and inviting the eye to travel up into corners and across all four walls of a space.

Be inventive with plant shelf ideas. Open shelving like the classic Kallax range from Ikea makes a brilliant gallery for smaller plants like Peperomia, South African violets and money plant, or use individual floating shelves – I love the Cario Shelf from Lulu and Georgia – to group plants. These work specially well for some of the best trailing houseplants like pothos and string of pearls, creating beautifully lush green walls..

Purpose-made plant stands like Ikea's are a great help in creating impactful tiered planting. Anthropologie's Holland Burl Wood Plinth will make any healthy plant look super expensive.

And don't forget about the ceiling and horizontal beams/ledges, where you can hang plants in macramé holders. For a high-end look, keep your displays intentional and curated; too many plants crammed in can simply end up looking cluttered.

Group Plants Together

Always arrange your plants in groups of varying heights and textures, as it creates a focal point with interest, something where the eye can land and linger. The exception to this rule is a large statement plant, which can stand alone.

Shane explains: 'Think in statement pieces and clusters, rather than scattering plants everywhere. A statement plant should create a focal point in a sightline, like a 6ft tree, a Monstera with sculptural aerial roots, or a fabulous old collector's jade with a thick woody trunk.

'When it comes to smaller plants I suggest curating a collection. It's more impactful than tiny plants scattered around the room. It is also practical because the best natural light is usually concentrated in only a few places in a room.'

Statement plants come in all shapes and sizes but I particularly love the look of this elegant Ficus Audrey from Home Depot.

Gargi also recommends giving some thought to the number of plants that are in each group.

'Cluster your houseplants in odd numbers, for example three or five plants together: I swear by this old design rule. This keeps a sense of cohesion, even when there are different types of plants.'

It's the same rule when planting the same varieties outdoors. Even numbers can look too regimented, so garden designers always recommend planting in blocks containing odd numbers of the same plant.

Do Sweat the Details

Ultimately, for a stylish, expensive look, it's the details that count. Gargi points out that the success of a room can hinge on the smallest elements:

'I see this all the time in my clients' homes. The plants themselves are almost never a problem, but everything around it is.'

One of these seemingly minor details is top-dressing. Which is particularly important if plants are at or below eye level and a must-do when learning to style your houseplants like a pro. Bare soil is not a high-end look, and it costs very little to add a layer of decorative stones or Ikea clay pellets around the base of your plants.

'Dressing pots gives them a personality and I see people skip this all the time. It makes such a big difference as bare potting soil looks unfinished. I always consider a layer of Spanish moss (you can buy Spanish moss at Home Depot), small river stones or crushed lava rocks to finish a pot. It's the small details that give your planter and plants the loveliest look.'

Shane agrees: 'Topdress like a professional plantscaper. Cover the entire soil surface all the way to the edge of the planter. I prefer stone or moss.'

Try the white River Rocks from Home Depot for your larger specimens.

Finally a note on plant care from Shane: 'Grooming matters. A plant can technically be healthy but if it’s not groomed, it won’t look great. Be sure to remove yellow leaves, any damaged foliage, and clean away and water spots and dust.'

I hope you've been inspired to give your indoor plants a little TLC and up your houseplant game. It's amazing what a little care and attention can achieve, not just in terms of how you look after your plants but also in placement and visual merchandising. Our ultimate houseplant care kit give your inspiration for everything you need to keep your plants in perfect health.

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You better believe it; it's just four months until the Christmas holiday season, and now is the perfect window for propagating houseplants. They really do make great (and free!) green gifts – guaranteed to be appreciated by friends and family. And so much more beautiful than another scented candle or novelty sweater.

Propagating houseplants is much simpler than you might imagine. If you've not tried it before, you're in for a treat. Cuttings, offsets, and even leaf tips of your favorite indoor plants can be transformed easily and quickly into mini plants ready for gifting by the end of December. Add a carefully selected pot, a pretty label, and a gift tag, and you have the perfect package for a green-leaning friend, neighbor, or relative.

Some of the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings include fountain-like spider plants, lush, trailing pothos, delicate string of pearls and super-cute pilea. I'll guide you through the methods, compost, and care that will take you from novice to seasoned cuttings grower. First up, the compost – The Sill's premium potting mix is a great one for most houseplants.

1. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)

Plain, lush green or variegated, the spider plant is one of our best-loved indoor plants, and spider plant care couldn't be simpler. It's also one of the easiest indoor plants to propagate.

In summer it sends out a cascade of arching stems that each produce their own plantlets at the tip: mini versions of the parent plant just waiting for their own pot to grow.

The baby plants are actually called spiderettes or pups (how cute is that?) and all they need to make new plants is to be snipped off with a pair of small clean, sharp pruners like these from Wayfair, and popped into water. In fact, we have a guide to the essential houseplant care kit, which will show you everything you need for the job.

To propagate spider plants, use a shallow glass or jar and make sure that just the base of each pup is submerged. This way the leaves won't rot. Pop the jar in a bright spot out of direct sunlight and refresh the water every few days.

Once the roots are 2-3in (6-8cm) long, transfer the pups to small pots of well-drained potting compost and grow them on, watering lightly until established, then reducing your watering. It really couldn't be simpler.

Top Tip: If your plant hasn't produced any pups this year but it's a decent size, ease it out of its pot and gently tease away the different plant sections. Repot the new pieces in fresh compost and give them a little water.

2. Pothos (Epipremnum)

Pothos is a lush trailing plant that I grow in macramé plant hangers at home – you can buy macramé plant hangers at Amazon. The long stems seem to go on and on, creating abundant veils of greenery with very little in the way of traditional pothos care or attention (I admit, I do tend to neglect my houseplants).

To propagate pothos, snip off one or two long, healthy stems just below a leaf node (the little bumps where new roots will grow), then snip that stem into 8in (20cm) sections and place in a bowl or wide glass of water (stems in, leaves out of the water). Leave this in a warm, light place.

Change the water every week and in a few weeks you'll see roots. Once these are a decent size, say 2in (5cm), transfer to pots of compost – for a fuller, bushier look plant three per pot – and grow them on.

Good to know: If you have philodendron plants, the propagation method is exactly the same.

3. Chinese Money Plant (Pilea)

I love Chinese money plant. With its sprays of little round leaves, each with a central pale dot, it's one of the cutest houseplants there is. How to grow Chinese money plant? Well, it's almost foolproof. So more is most definitely more with Pilea and I'm all for propagating this little beauty.

You can propagate money plants for free in two ways. The first is to find baby pups at the base of mature plants and cut them out (a pair of Fiskars Detailer Snips from Amazon are really useful here).

Then you either submerge the stems in water or plant them directly into small pots of well-drained potting compost (keep the compost moist, of course). The pups are pretty small so this can be fiddly – I find a set of succulent tweezers from Amazon helpful here for backfilling the compost.

Bonus method: This is a great solution if your plants have become a bit leggy. You cut off the tops of those leggy stems, remove the lower leaves, then root the stem in a jar of water (just like before, with spider plants), before potting them up. If you have a jar with a narrow opening, that will help to keep the leaves above the water line.

4. String of Pearls (Senecio)

Stem cuttings are the best and easiest way to make new string of pearls plants for free. Your friends will love the sweet little plants, their long, trailing stems decked with glossy green buttons from root to tip. They're deservedly popular and learning how to look after string of pearls is a synch.

But back to string of pearls propagation. Using sharp disinfected snips, cut 3-6in (8-16cm) stems from your plants, then carefully pull off the bottom three or four pearls to expose the nodes.

Pop the ends of the stems into pots filled with moist succulent or cactus compost (string of pearls is a succulent, so it needs a particularly sharp-draining growing medium – try Hoffman Cactus & Succulent Soil Mix from Amazon), three or four to a pot to get nice bushy pots, and leave in a bright spot out of direct sunlight.

Every day or two mist the plants lightly – a simple spray bottle like this one from Amazon will do the trick – and you should see roots making their way down into the soil in around six weeks.

5. Snake Plant (Dracaena)

Propagating snake plants is a little different, as you have to take pieces of the leaf and encourage these to produce roots. It's a simple process, however, and you'll need a large jar of water to begin with.

First choose a healthy leaf from your snake plant (expert tips for healthy snake plants include bright light and low watering), then use a pair of sharp pruners to cut it near the base making an inverted V cut. Next, cut the leaf down into 4in (10cm) pieces, again using the inverted V cut and remembering to keep the sections of leaf the right way up.

Pop the leaf sections into your jar of water, add a a few drops of Root Drops from Amazon and be patient. The wait is a little longer here – it'll be around three months until you have roots big enough to pot them up.

Do this into light, sharply draining houseplant compost, three sections to a pot. Water them in well, letting the pots drain, then keep watering to a minimum after that.

Time To Get Festive

When you've got your newly propagated houseplants all ready to go, you'll want to make them look the business, and there are a few little additions that will do just that.

First off, some pretty plant labels and a lovely pot – The Sill has a great selection. Make sure the pot is the right size – your plastic pot should fit snugly inside with all the plastic hidden beneath the rim.

Then gift wrap, either neutral (Shinok paper roll from Amazon will wrap plenty of pots) or these Botanical Gift Bags from Amazon are fun, as is this Potted Plant gift Wrap, also from Amazon. And I love tying things together with simple jute string, although a few lengths of something sparkly look fabulous too.

A simple but classy gift tag design like this one from Amazon will finish the whole package off perfectly.

I adore receiving home-grown or homemade gifts. It's personal, and so thoughtful. The gift of a houseplant, carefully propagated and packaged is one any green-loving friend or relative will cherish for years to come.

My advice is to make a date with yourself in the diary, stock up on houseplant compost and your essential houseplant care kit, then enjoy a few hours of snipping and potting. You'll have armfuls of free gifts come December.

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This summer has been scorching and I've watched my houseplants struggle with it. You may have also found your indoor plants have been extra thirsty this month due to the warmer conditions, but what if I told you giving them more water isn't actually what they need?

Summer houseplant care can be challenging. Warmer room temperatures, dry air from AC, and intense sunlight can increase foliage water loss. Combined, these conditions cause potting soil to dry out far faster than usual, sometimes seemingly overnight. But, instead of constantly watering your plants to keep the soil moist, you should rather focus on helping your plant and its soil retain moisture for longer. This includes relocating your houseplants out of direct sun, boosting humidity levels, and adding soil amendments.

In fact, it can be harmful to water your houseplants too frequently, even if the soil appears dry. Below the surface, you could be waterlogging and compacting the soil, encouraging a weaker root system – I always use my soil moisture meter from Amazon to check how wet the soil is further down in the pot before watering. Here, I explain more about why your houseplants are thirstier in August and what to do to fix it without using more water.

Why Houseplants Are Extra Thirsty in August

It might sound obvious, but houseplants are thirstier in summer because it's warmer and they're actively growing. However, if your houseplants are taking up excessive water and you're having to top them up as often as daily or every other day, it's an indication that something is wrong in their growing environment.

For example, I have some succulents on a south-facing windowsill. During the recent heatwaves their soil was drying within a day and their plump foliage turned wrinkly. Considering succulents store water in their fleshy leaves, this didn't seem right.

The combination of scorching direct sun and higher room temperatures meant their soil was drying out too fast and their foliage was transpiring quickly. But, watering them more frequently wasn't the solution, especially because succulents are susceptible to houseplant root rot.

Excessive water can compact houseplant soil, make it waterlogged, and reduce airflow, causing longer-term problems for your indoor plants, such as suffocating and rotting roots.

Not to mention, you might not realize that below the dry surface the soil is actually moistened. Summer conditions may just be causing the surface to dry out and create a hard crust that is stopping additional water from soaking in.

As well as using a soil moisture meter (also available at Walmart) to monitor your plant's soil, you can look for heat stress symptoms to determine the exact issue. This includes discoloring foliage, wilting, and leaf scorch.

Another cause could be that your houseplants are root-bound from a summer growth spurt, with less soil to hold onto water. To check this, gently lift your plant out of its pot and look for roots wrapping around each other.

If you notice any of these symptoms, it's time to adjust your plant's growing environment to make it less thirsty.

How to Fix It

To stop your houseplants drying out so quickly and demanding so much water, you need to adjust their growing environment. There are a few ways to do this:

• Reduce sunlight: If your plants are drying out quickly and showing signs of heat stress, move them away from a direct sun position – even if it's an indoor plant that loves sun. If needed, you can use these sheer curtains from Wayfair to diffuse the intensity of sunlight.
• Boost humidity: If you have an AC unit that is in use throughout summer, you might not realize you're drawing moisture out of the air for your plants. To counter this, use methods to increase humidity for indoor plants. For example, you can place them on this pebble humidity tray from Amazon or place this Walmart portable humidifier next to them.
• Repot your plant: Whether your houseplant has become root-bound or has a poor potting soil that doesn't hold onto moisture, repotting can be an effective solution to reducing its demand for water. To provide more room, choose a planter one size up (this set of plant pots from Amazon is perfect for this, with different sizes in the same style). Use a good quality houseplant potting mix that is moisture-retentive and well-draining. You can also use amendments like this coco coir from Amazon, vermiculite from Walmart, or clay growing medium pellets from IKEA to make your soil more moisture-retentive.
• Change your watering technique: Going forward, you can improve how you water houseplants so it's a less demanding. There are two methods I find work best for longer hydration: bottom watering houseplants and deep watering. The former requires a plant pot with a saucer (like this glazed one from Amazon) where you water the saucer and allow plant roots to soak up as much water as needed. The latter requires giving your houseplants a long soaking less frequently (once a week in extreme heat), rather than watering little and often. This will protect the soil structure and make it more moisture-retentive. Alternatively, use these terracotta watering spikes from Walmart to provide gradual, consistent moisture to your plants so they don't dry out.

What to Shop

Watering isn't the only summer houseplant care mistake to steer clear of. You should also clean houseplant leaves regularly (I like to use these microfiber houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon) to keep pests away and take care not to overfertilize your plants, especially in hot weather.

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Summer is a glorious yet challenging time in the indoor garden, as our houseplants enjoy a growth spurt while battling pests that can quickly destroy them. One of the most common to find in August are spider mites, which form fine webs over plants, feed on their leaves, and significantly weaken them.

The reason so many of us have the challenge of getting rid of spider mites on houseplants this month is because these sap-sucking insects thrive in summer conditions. Dry air and dehydrated plants are what spider mites seek and they multiply quickly in this environment. The problem is spider mites can be easy to miss because they're tiny.

That's why it's so important to monitor your plants for any signs of mites, keep them hydrated, and clean their leaves regularly through summer. Even using this plant mister from Amazon daily can help keep plant leaves clean pest-free. Here, I explain more about why these little red insects are taking over your houseplants in August and what to do about them.

Spider Mites in August

Spider mites are one of the most common houseplant pests to spot in August for one reason: they love the summer heat.

With humidity low and temperatures high, spider mites thrive in our homes during the summer months. It's when their natural predators are less active and plants are more susceptible to heat-stress, which these mites target to feed on.

This means underwatered houseplants next to open sunny windows are most at risk of attracting spider mites in summer (I always use a soil moisture meter, like this from Amazon, to monitor my plants' soil and water correctly).

The warmer conditions also result in fast reproduction, so spider mite populations an multiply fast and spread to more plants in your houseplant collection.

If you don't catch a spider mite infestation quickly, it can result in leaf drop, discoloration, and stunted growth, as plants become significantly weak from the damage.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to deter and get rid of them.

How to Get Rid of Them

To avoid spider mites on houseplants in August, I always do a few things to make my indoor garden less appealing to them.

This includes moving houseplants away from scorching sunny windows, especially the windows I have constantly open in summer as this offers a direct access point for pests.

This will also help prevent leaf scorch on your most sensitive houseplants. Alternatively, you can use these sheer curtains from Wayfair to diffuse the sunlight and protect foliage from damage.

I also clean my houseplant leaves weekly during summer. You can use these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon to gently wipe the surface and remove any dust. This is a good opportunity to observe foliage and look out for pests, especially on the underside of leaves where they often hide.

You can also increase humidity for indoor plants to deter spider mites. As well as misting your plant, an effective solution is placing your plant on a pebble humidity tray (from Amazon) or even installing a humidifier (like this portable one from Walmart).

If you do spot any spider mites on your houseplants, it's important to isolate them from other plants to stop spreading. Cut off any heavily-infested foliage (using clean and sharp houseplant snips from Amazon) and then shower your plant to wash away the majority of the mites.

When I've dealt with these destructive insects before, I've found individually wiping each leaf is super effective. You can use water on a microfiber cloth, insecticidal soap (like this from Amazon), or even organic neem oil (like this spray from Walmart).

What to Shop

Not checking for pests is just one summer houseplant care mistake to watch out for. You should also take care to adjust watering frequency during hot spells and avoid overfertilizing your plants, which can burn roots.

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I've had my jade plant for many years now and love it for its low maintenance and sculptural foliage. To keep it looking its best, I always give my jade plant a quick check in August. Doing a few simple tasks this month keeps these plants healthy and prepare them for the incoming fall.

Growing a jade plant is straightforward and really, these succulents thrive on neglect. But, a little TLC in summer can go a long way. Hotter temperatures can cause a jade plant's plump leaves to shrivel, so it's important to keep on top of watering. You should also watch out for leaf burn in intense sunlight, and monitor for pests that love the current dry conditions.

All of these things apply to a large jade plant and jade bonsai tree (like this one I love from Amazon) alike, leaving your plant looking bright and glossy. Here, I talk through exactly what to do with a jade plant in August.

1. Water Deeply in Summer

When a jade plant is dehydrated, its iconic plump leaves (which store water) become wrinkled and turn limp. Jade plant leaves may even drop off and its stems can become brittle and break off.

This is one of the biggest risks in summer, where warmer temperatures are drying out the soil more quickly. That's why it's so important to keep on top of watering your jade plant in August.

I like to use the deep watering method to ensure my jade plant is sufficiently hydrated. This helps avoid overwatering, which can cause a jade plant to suffer from root rot.

I opt for this method over a self-watering planter (like this pretty set of green ones from Amazon) because jade plants need their soil to dry out in between watering. For this reason, I also use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to monitor the soil before picking up my watering can.

2. Protect It from Scorching Sun

In August, there's still plenty of summer sun to enjoy. For jade plants, however, the intense afternoon sunlight can cause discoloration and sun burn.

In fact, too much sun exposure can cause your jade plant to turn red as a stress response. Though, native to southern Africa, these succulents thrive in 4-6 hours of bright light daily and enjoy a spot near a south-facing window.

You can use a sheer curtain (like this from Wayfair) to filter direct sunlight from your window and protect your plant.

Any jade plant leaves with leaf scorch won't turn green again, so it's best to snip them off with clean and sharp houseplant snips (like these from Amazon).

3. Monitor for Pests

Many common houseplant pests thrive in warm, dry summer conditions. For jade plants, spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects are among the biggest culprits.

Damage includes dropping leaves, discoloration, distorted growth, and the general decline of your plant's health.

That's why it's important to regularly check your jade plant for pests. In particular, monitor the leaves and stem joints for clusters of white mealybugs, fine webbing of spider mites, and sooty mold or raised bumps for sap-sucking pests.

You should then take the necessary steps to get rid of spider mites on houseplants or the other pests you're dealing with. The first thing I always do is isolate pest-infested plants to ensure the problem doesn't spread to other houseplants.

Getting on top of pest problems early will give your plant the best chance. You can use diluted organic neem oil spray (available on Amazon) to make your houseplants less inhabitable to pests as a precaution.

Shop Our Jade Plant Edit

Another thing you can do this month is propagate your jade plant to multiply your houseplant collection for free. You can do this with stem cuttings, which can be taken using these houseplant snips on Amazon. Summer is a good time to do this, as the plant is in its active growth season and the warm, bright conditions encourage rooting.

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If you struggle to keep houseplants alive because you can't seem to get watering right, you might want to swap soil for Lightweight Expanded Clay Aggregate (LECA).

It's an alternative potting mix for houseplants that has increasingly become popular for easier watering. Essentially, it's expanded clay balls that have air pockets which are able to retain moisture while providing plenty of airflow and drainage – pretty ideal for growing tropical indoor plants. By using it instead of soil, your plant's roots are less likely to rot and you won't have to water so often.

Though it isn't as easy as chucking a bag of LECA (which you can buy on Amazon) in your plant's pot. LECA isn't as nutrient-rich as standard houseplant potting soil, so it's rather used in a semi-hydroponic set-up, along with a special fertilizer to support growth. That's why it also isn't a reliable option for all houseplants. Here, we explain all you need to know about using LECA in your indoor garden.

What is LECA?

LECA is made by heating clay at a high temperature, resulting in it expanding into lightweight porous balls.

They can be used to grow many plants instead of houseplant potting mix (which you can pick up at Walmart) because they provide plenty of moisture, airflow, and drainage.

The best part is they retain moisture and gradually release it, a bit like a sponge. This makes it much easier to avoid the indoor plant mistake of overwatering or underwatering your plants.

This moisture management and airflow also helps to deter houseplant pests like fungus gnats, which thrive in oversaturated soil.

Overall, it's a great pick for tropical plants that love consistent moisture and hate drying out, but are also susceptible to root rot and dislike excessive water.

In particular, many people have been successfully using LECA on orchids, monsteras, anthuriums, philodendrons, and alocasia.

But it isn't as simple as swapping for soil. There is a particular method to use LECA correctly.

How to Use LECA

To use LECA properly, there are a few steps to follow. Simply swapping soil for LECA won't provide enough nutrients for your plants to grow healthily.

That's why the typical set-up is semi-hydroponic, i.e., a plant sitting in LECA balls with a small reservoir below. In the reservoir, hydroponic feed (like this from Amazon) provides the essential plant nutrients needed.

The clay balls then soak up moisture from the reservoir and release it to the plant roots in a capillary action.

1. The first thing to do is get your LECA clay balls (also available at Walmart) and wash them to remove the dust. You also want to soak them thoroughly before planting.
2. You should then remove your houseplant from its current soil, gently brushing away any soil on its roots. You want to remove as much as possible, as it can be a source of rot once in the LECA.
3. Plant your houseplant in a self-watering plant pot (like these green ones from Amazon) using the LECA. You may need to add extra LECA to secure it in place.
4. Fill the bottom reservoir compartment with water and a hydroponic fertilizer (like this from Walmart), following manufacturer instructions for strength.
5. Monitor your plant. There may be an adjustment period where your plant may droop slightly. It will perk back up as it settles into its new home. You should then keep the reservoir topped up with water and feed as needed.

Something to be aware of: The successful use of LECA requires you to balance the nutrient levels correctly.

Too little can cause a deficiency, resulting in discoloring foliage and a general decline of your plant's health. Too much can cause a salt build-up and burn the roots.

It's worth looking into the needs of your specific plant to get the balance right, as well as regularly flushing your plant's roots with clean water to prevent a mineral build-up.

That's why it isn't a reliable choice for hungry plants that need a consistent source of nutrients. Likewise, it isn't a good choice for plants that prefer a drier environment, like succulents and cacti.

What to Shop

Another low-effort way to keep your tropical houseplants happy is by placing them in a bathroom or using a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) to increase humidity for indoor plants.

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August is the perfect time to spruce up a spider plant and treat it to a little TLC. Hopefully your spider plant will have been growing vigorously over the past few months, putting out lush new foliage, searching roots and even cascades of fascinating spiderettes.

However, high temperatures, hardworking AC units and changes in watering routines can all impact the health of your indoor plants and your spider plant care, so it's worth knowing more about growing habits and needs to keep them flourishing.

Here, we delve into five tricks you need to know this month to help your plant, from propagation (using a kit such as these glass propagation stations from Walmart) to watering, repotting and more.

Pot Up Spiderettes And Grow New Plants

With plant growth accelerating this month, it's likely your spider plant has produced multiple babies.

Known as spiderettes or pups, these can easily be separated from the parent plant and potted up to grow on, making Chlorophytum comosum one of the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings.

'August is a great time to propagate because the warmer, brighter conditions help the plantlets get rooted and established more quickly than in the cooler, darker months of winter,' explains horticulturalist Justin Hancock.

Start the process 'by pruning the baby plantlets from the stalk and submerging their roots or base in a shallow vessel of water until they reach about 1 inch long before potting,' explains plant expert Paris Lalicata.

'Alternatively, you can just root them directly into a new pot with moist potting mix and place them in an area that gets bright light and higher humidity,' she continues.

Delay Repotting In A Heatwave

One of the best fast growing indoor plants, this month is the ideal time to upgrade your spider plant to a larger plant pot.

'August can be a good time to repot your spider plant if it has currently outgrown its container and you notice either roots growing out of the drainage hole, or the plant appears 2-3 times larger than its current planter,' says Paris.

Gently tap around the pot, loosening roots and soil before removing the plant. Fill the new, slightly larger container a third full of well-draining compost, such as this specialist Gardenera compost from Amazon.

Place the plant in the new pot, ensuring the crown sits just above the soil line, and fill around the roots with more compost. Water and leave to drain thoroughly before moving back into position.

This indoor plant task can surprisingly be weather-dependent. 'I’d avoid repotting during a heatwave, especially if your plant is exposed to high temperatures, and wait until the temperatures get cooler,' cautions Paris.

Water On Demand Rather Than By Routine

August's high temperatures can disrupt how you water all types of spider plants.

'If you’re experiencing heat waves in your area and you don’t keep your indoor air cool with an AC, plants can certainly start to drink up water faster, so your spider plant may need additional watering,' explains Paris.

If the top 1-2 inches of potting compost are dry to the touch, then it's time to water, but other telltale signs don't involve dirtying your hands.

'Your plant will tell you it’s starting to get thirsty by subtle changes in the leaves - they’ll be less glossy and more matte and the deep green tones may appear more blue-green in color,' says Justin. 'As the thirst continues, you may start to see leaf tips/edges go yellow and then brown.'

Watering these small indoor plants from the top or bottom is a matter of personal preference. Just be sure to soak and drain thoroughly to avoid root rot.

'During heatwaves, check the soil every few days rather than watering on a fixed schedule,' he continues.

A simple soil hydrometer - such as this from Amazon - will eliminate any watering guesswork. While a Bluetooth Hygrometer will monitor light levels and temperature too.

Boost Humidity Levels

Hailing from South Africa, spider plants need some humidity to thrive. With August's rising temperatures, maintaining a degree of moisture in the air in our homes can prove tricky.

As plant expert Ofra Gaito explains: 'Summer heat and air conditioning can both reduce indoor humidity. If you notice brown leaf tips, placing the pot on a pebble tray or grouping it with other plants can provide a modest boost in humidity.'

Find eco-friendly clay pebbles at Lowe's and team them with a humidity saucer such as this one from Amazon.

Watch Out For Leaf Bleach

August's fierce sunlight can severely harm the strappy leaves of a spider plant, resulting in crispy, brown patches that the plant cannot recover from. Recognising exactly what leaf scorch is and how to avoid it is key to keeping these classic indoor plants healthy.

Early warning signs that the plant is in too bright a spot are that the foliage will lose its color, with classic cream and green stripes becoming pale. Known as 'sun stress', this is the sign to promptly move these otherwise low-maintenance indoor plants to a cooler, shadier spot before permanent damage occurs.

Keep an eye on where direct afternoon sun falls within your home and consider fitting a UV-blocking sheet at windows - such as this from Lowe's - to stop harmful burning rays.

What to Shop:

Hopefully, by knowing how to care for your spider plant in August, you will be inspired to add to your indoor plant collection. Discover more ideas for decorating with plants and learn how to speed up houseplant propagation.

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My moth orchids are starting to look a little sorry for themselves by the time August arrives, which is why I do several things to revive them and set them up for strong blooming next year.

Even though orchid care is highly particular, I've learned that less is more for these indoor flowering houseplants. However, warmer temperatures in August require more frequent watering and protection from intense afternoon sunlight. Nevertheless, a bit of pruning (with these houseplant snips from Amazon) and placing your orchid somewhere humid will help support it through the rest of its active growth season.

Here, I talk through what to do with orchids in August, with five tasks that will give yours a late-summer boost.

1. Remove Faded Stems

It's common for orchid stems to be turning yellow by the end of July and into August, as they come to the end of their summer display and prepare for their resting period in fall.

Instead of leaving the stems attached, you can prune your orchid to redirect its energy and encourage new stems.

Where you cut your orchid flower spike depends on how it's looking.

If there is still a green, firm part, you can trim it back to just above a healthy node. This will actually encourage branching and new blooms in late summer or fall – though they're likely to be smaller than flowers on a brand new stem.

If, however, the entire stem has turned brown, you can cut it at the base of the plant to remove it. This will redirect the plant's energy into producing a new spike later on (typically late winter into early spring, where dropping room temperatures trigger flowering).

Always use clean, sharp pruning tools for this. I like these houseplant pruning snips from Amazon, as they're the perfect size for quickly tending to orchids.

2. Keep Your Orchid Hydrated

Watering orchids is a skill that takes time to master, and it's often the number one thing that goes wrong and kills off these houseplants. This is because they dislike prolonged drought but are equally susceptible to orchid root rot.

In summer, keep in mind that orchids will dry out much more quickly than in other seasons. This is both because they're actively growing and the air is warmer.

My trick to always getting orchid watering right is observing the roots. If the chunky aerial roots appear silver, it's time to water. If green, leave your plant alone.

I use a small houseplant watering can (like this from Walmart) to add just a bit of water at a time. You don't want to oversaturate the roots and let them sit in a pool of water, but rather ensure they have been soaked all over.

3. Boost Humidity

When it comes to helping houseplants in a heatwave, increasing the humidity for indoor plants is key – especially for tropical plants like orchids.

Heatwaves can significantly dry out the air and orchid bark (which you can find at Walmart), resulting in dehydration, damaged tissue, and an overall decline of the plant.

Orchids love 40-70% humidity, which can be hard to achieve in the home. But placing your orchid in the bathroom to soak up extra moisture from the shower, or using a pebble humidity tray (like this from Amazon) can help.

You can also regularly mist your orchid with this plant mister from Wayfair.

This will also stop orchid leaves from becoming wrinkly.

4. Feed Your Orchid

Fertilizing your orchid throughout its active growth season is important if you want to encourage glossy foliage and long-lasting blooms.

Even if your orchid has finished flowering in August, applying a specific orchid fertilizer (like this TPS one from Amazon) can support foliage growth and give it a boost of essential plant nutrients to encourage flowering later on.

Aim to feed your orchids every couple of weeks during summer, flushing its roots once a month to remove a build-up of salts. Fertilizing more frequently can burn your orchid's sensitive roots, resulting in premature fading and even death of the plant.

Alternatively, you can use an organic orchid feed, such as making your own orchid fertilizer with coffee grounds and rice water.

5. Check for Pests

Many houseplant pests thrive in dry summer conditions, so it's important to check for them regularly and act fast before they spread.

For orchids, some of the most common pests include mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, and aphids.

You should check for symptoms like yellowing leaves, spotting, and fine webbing. Always inspect the underside of the leaves, as this is where pests like to hide.

If you do spot any, isolate your orchid from other plants to stop them spreading. You should then act accordingly to get rid of spider mites, get rid of thrips, and so on.

I find regularly misting my orchid's leaves helps keep them glossy and clean, which makes them less inviting to pests.

Lots of houseplant owners also like to use neem oil (which you can find as a neem oil plant spray at Amazon) to protect their plants from pests organically.

What to Shop

Even though orchids are undoubtedly tricky, several orchid myths aren't true and could be misinforming how you care for yours. Though, it is important to place your orchid correctly to support its growth and overall health.

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Pothos has earned its reputation as one of the easiest houseplants to grow, but even this famously low-maintenance plant benefits from a little extra attention during the height of summer. July is when pothos is actively growing, making it the perfect time to tackle a few simple maintenance jobs that will encourage fuller foliage and longer, healthier vines.

Whether your pothos is trailing from a bookshelf, climbing a moss pole, or brightening a bathroom shelf, these seasonal care tasks can help it look its best. From watering and feeding to pruning and propagation, here's what plant experts recommend doing with pothos in July.

If you're looking to improve your pothos plant care routine, these simple July jobs will help keep your plant healthy during its peak growing season, encouraging stronger vines, lusher foliage, and vigorous new growth throughout the summer months.

1. Water More Consistently

As temperatures rise, pothos will usually need watering more often than it does in spring or winter. Rather than sticking to a strict schedule, check the top 1–2 inches of soil with your finger before reaching for the watering can. If it feels dry, give the plant a thorough soak until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot. If you're unsure when to water, the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is a handy tool that takes the guesswork out of watering by measuring moisture levels below the soil surface.

‘One of the biggest mistakes people make with pothos in summer is watering on autopilot,’ says Tenielle Jordison, Houseplant Expert and Editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘Your plant's needs will change as temperatures rise, so it's always better to check the soil before watering rather than following a set schedule. Pothos are much happier with evenly moist soil than roots that are constantly saturated.’

If you're heading away for a few days during the summer, the Iridescent Self Watering Globes from Amazon can help maintain more consistent soil moisture between waterings, reducing the risk of your pothos drying out in warm weather.

Always empty decorative cachepots or saucers after watering to prevent water from pooling around the roots, as consistently wet soil can quickly lead to root rot.

2. Feed Your Plant

July is an ideal time to fertilize pothos, as the plant is putting on plenty of fresh new growth. During its active growing season, a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer applied every four to six weeks will usually provide all the nutrients it needs to produce lush foliage and healthy trailing vines throughout summer. Miracle-Gro Pour & Feed Plant Food from Amazon is a convenient ready-to-use option that requires no mixing, making it an easy way to support healthy summer growth.

Avoid overfeeding, however, as too much houseplant fertilizer can lead to a build-up of salts in the soil, potentially damaging the roots and causing brown leaf tips. Following the recommended dosage on the label is always better than applying more than your pothos needs.

3. Give the Leaves a Clean

Dust quickly accumulates on pothos leaves, reducing the amount of light they can absorb. Wipe each leaf gently with a damp microfiber cloth or rinse the plant in a lukewarm shower to remove dirt and debris.

A pack of Amazon Basics Microfiber Cleaning Cloths from Amazon is ideal for gently removing dust without scratching delicate foliage, while the 2 Pack Glass Spray Bottles with Silicone Sleeve from Amazon makes it easy to lightly mist leaves before wiping them clean.

'Keeping foliage clean doesn't just improve appearance,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'It also allows the leaves to photosynthesize more efficiently, helping support healthy summer growth.'

4. Prune Leggy Vines

If your pothos has become long and sparse, July is the perfect time to prune pothos and encourage fuller, bushier growth. Trim stems just above a leaf node using clean, sharp pruning tools, as this stimulates new shoots to develop from the cut point, resulting in a denser plant over the following weeks.

For larger or thicker vines, the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears are a reliable choice, while the compact Felco F322 Pruning Snips from Amazon are ideal for making precise cuts on delicate houseplants. Using clean tools also helps reduce the risk of spreading disease between plants.

Don't throw away the cuttings, either – they're perfect for propagation and can be rooted in water or potting mix to grow new pothos plants for your home or to share with friends.

5. Propagate New Plants

Summer warmth makes July one of the easiest months to propagate pothos, as the plant is actively growing and quick to produce new roots. Simply cut a healthy vine just below a node and place the cutting in water, ensuring at least one node remains submerged. Roots often begin developing within a couple of weeks, after which the cutting can be planted into potting mix or left growing in water as part of a decorative display.

‘Pothos is one of the most rewarding houseplants to propagate,’ says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. ‘It's an easy way to turn one healthy plant into several, whether you want to create a fuller-looking pot, add more greenery to other rooms, or share cuttings with friends and family.’

6. Rotate the Pot

Pothos naturally grows toward its light source, so it's common for stems to lean or stretch in one direction during the bright days of summer. To encourage balanced, even growth, rotate the pot by around a quarter turn every week or two. This simple habit helps maintain a fuller, more symmetrical plant and prevents it from becoming lopsided over time.

For the healthiest foliage and the best leaf variegation, position your pothos in bright, indirect light. Too little light can lead to leggy growth and faded markings, while prolonged direct sun may scorch the leaves.

7. Check for Pests

Warm weather can encourage common houseplant pests, including spider mites, mealybugs, and scale insects. Inspect the undersides of leaves and along stems every week, especially if your pothos spends time outdoors during summer. Early detection makes infestations much easier to control before pests become established.

For treatment, Bonide Captain Jack's Neem Max Ready-to-Use Spray from Amazon is a popular choice for tackling many common houseplant pests, including spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Simply spray according to the label directions, taking care to coat both the tops and undersides of the leaves where pests often hide.

Regular inspections and prompt treatment will help keep your pothos healthy and growing vigorously throughout the summer.

It's never too early to be thinking about the holidays, especially when it comes to getting your holiday houseplants in shape, like a poinsettia. Giving it some attention now will ensure a vibrant display for Christmas.

The truth is poinsettia care is very particular, but doing some essential summer care will set it up for a healthy and strong winter season. From consistent watering to pruning for a fuller shape (using these houseplant snips from Amazon), your poinsettia will appreciate a bit of TLC over the next couple of weeks, especially in the heat of summer.

You can even propagate your poinsettia this month to create new plants for free, ideal for gifting once the holiday season comes around. Here, I talk through exactly what to do with a poinsettia in July.

1. Keep Watering Consistently

If there's one thing to know about poinsettias, it's that they're incredibly dramatic and don't respond well to environmental changes. So, in the heat of summer, it's important to keep yours hydrated.

You should water your poinsettia consistently, topping it up when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Letting it sit in prolonged drought will cause your poinsettia to wilt and drop leaves.

I like to use my soil moisture meter (which you can find on Amazon) to check my poinsettia regularly. This ensures I water it when it's starting to get thirsty and don't let it sit in dry soil for too long.

At the same time, avoid the common poinsettia mistake of overwatering. These houseplants are susceptible to root rot, which can kill off the plant.

One way to ensure your poinsettia stays hydrated is by growing it in a plant pot with a saucer, like this from Amazon. You can then use the bottom watering method to keep your plant sufficiently hydrated.

2. Prune for New Growth

Poinsettia's active growth season is from spring to fall, making it the perfect window to prune your poinsettia and encourage bushier growth by the time the holidays arrive.

The main period to cut back your poinsettia after is colorful bracts fade is during late winter to early spring. But, in summer, you can encourage a fuller silhouette by doing some careful pruning.

Pinch off the growing tip of the main stems, i.e. the fresh, soft green growth. You want to follow the stem down and cut above a leaf node, using clean and sharp pruning snips (like these from Amazon).

This encourages new growth to emerge in a branching habit, providing a bushier plant.

Take care to wear gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) when doing this, as poinsettias bleed a milky sap that can be irritating to skin.

3. Fertilize Regularly

Poinsettias are known to be hungry plants which means they need a boost of essential plant nutrients when using all of their energy to grow during spring and summer.

It's best to fertilize your poinsettia with a liquid houseplant feed (like this from Walmart) or a specific poinsettia fertilizer (like this from Amazon) every 2-4 weeks up until late summer.

This will encourage leafy growth and support the development of the colorful bracts for winter.

Take care not to overfertilize your poinsettia, though, as their sensitive roots can burn and your poinsettia leaves may turn yellow.

4. Propagate Your Poinsettia

You can propagate your poinsettia in July to grow new plants for free by taking softwood cuttings.

You should take stem cuttings 3-6" in length with each one having 3-4 leaves on it. Once again, where gloves to protect your skin from the sap when doing this.

It can help to use a rooting hormone to speed up the process. This rooting hormone powder from Amazon is a good choice, simply dip the end of the cutting into it.

You can then plant it into a pot of well-draining houseplant potting mix (which you can find at Walmart) and use a plastic bag to lock in humidity. Keep it somewhere bright and warm (ideally 70-75°F) and maintain moisture to support rooting.

Your new plant should have rooted within 3-6 weeks, which you can check by gently pulling it for resistance.

5. Check for Pests

Lots of common houseplant pests are active in summer, as they thrive in the warm conditions. For poinsettias, this means looking out for fungus gnats, thrips, and whiteflies in particular.

Pests like to hide on the underside of leaves, so I regularly check as part of my summer houseplant care regime.

As poinsettias are humidity-lovers, regularly misting the plant with this plant mister from Wayfair can help keep leaves clean and deter pests. Or, you can pop your poinsettia on this pebble humidity tray from Amazon.

If you do find any pests, it's best to act fast before they cause too much damage and weaken the plant. Our guides to getting rid of thrips and getting rid of fungus gnats have more guidance on dealing with specific pests.

Many houseplant owners like to use neem oil (like this from Amazon) as an organic spray to deter and get rid of plant pests.

What to Shop

If you're finding poinsettias a little too high-maintenance and tricky to care for, try opting for a poinsettia alternative instead. There are plenty of houseplants that bring just as much color and joy as poinsettias which far less fuss.

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The fiddle leaf fig is one of the most beautiful statement houseplants to grow, with its iconic lobed foliage. But, it is considered dramatic and – at times – needy. And now we're in July, it demands some essential summer care to look brighter and fuller.

Growing a fiddle leaf fig is undoubtedly rewarding, but you need to get its care just right for it to stay happy. These figs are currently in a season of active growth, meaning they're using up lots of energy and appreciate a boost of fertilizer. It's also a great time to prune your fig to encourage a bushier shape – just make sure to have these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon to hand. And don't forget to check its leaves for any hiding pests that are thriving in this month's warmth.

Here, with insights from a plant expert, I talk through exactly what to do with a fiddle leaf fig in July so you can encourage even more growth this summer.

1. Fertilize Regularly

Fiddle leaf figs are hungry houseplants and their growth will slow down as the nutrients in their soil deplete. You may even spot discoloring foliage from a nutrient deficiency.

'Fertilize your fiddle leaf fig every two to four weeks through the warm growing months,' says Kellie Brown of Fig & Bloom. 'You should stop entirely once growth slows in late summer,' she adds.

You can use a specific fiddle leaf fig fertilizer (like this one from Amazon) which is nitrogen-rich to encourage foliage growth. Simply dilute with water to apply.

Fiddle leaf fig's roots are sensitive, so I recommend first dampening the soil when using liquid feeds. This ensures the roots are hydrated and able to absorb the fertilizer without getting burned.

For an organic option, you can use a coffee ground fertilizer which is rich in nitrogen.

2. Encourage Branching

July is an ideal time to do some fiddle leaf fig pruning, especially if you want to encourage a fuller shape. Doing this in the active growth season means your plant has lots of energy to use and time to recover before cooler conditions in fall.

Fiddle leaf figs have a main trunk-like stem, but some careful pruning can encourage side shoots, resulting in multiple branches and a bushier habit.

'Cut about half-an-inch above a leaf node,' says Kellie. This is where a leaf connects to the main stem, where those new branches will emerge.

You should make a clean cut with pruning tools like these Felco F2 pruning shears from Amazon, which are the right size to cut through the thicker stems of the fiddle leaf fig.

Removing the main growing tip will also help redirect the plant's energy into the side shoots – this is known as apical pruning.

Take care to avoid pruning mistakes, however, such as removing more than one third of the plant which can shock the plant and stunt growth.

'And always wear gloves, as the sap can irritate skin,' Kellie warns.

3. Clean the Foliage

The large lobed foliage of fiddle leaf figs is what makes them so popular, but this also means they're one of the houseplants that collect dust easily.

Dusty conditions attract common houseplant pests and dull your fiddle leaf fig's appearance. It can even hinder its ability to photosynthesize.

That's why it's important to clean your houseplant leaves regularly throughout the year.

I like to use houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon), but you can also gently wipe the leaves with a slightly damp microfiber cloth from Walmart.

'Skip silicone leaf shines, they clog the leaf’s pores,' Kellie warns. 'And those white specks that won’t rub off aren’t a disease, they’re natural mineral cells,' she adds.

You can also clean your fiddle leaf fig leaves to make them glossier by regularly misting your plant, with this Wayfair plant mister.

Shop Fiddle Leaf Fig Essentials

While these are undoubtedly some of the most impressive plants to have in your home, there are lots of fiddle leaf figs problems to be aware of. This includes drooping leaves from overly wet soil. I avoid this issue by always checking my houseplant's soil with my soil moisture meter from Amazon, which lets me know when it's time to top up water.

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As much as I adore my moth orchids, there's no doubt they are some of the fussiest houseplants. To achieve a gorgeous display of long-lasting blooms, you have to get the conditions just right. And if anything in their growing environment slightly changes, they'll drop all of their flowers and quickly wilt.

It's for this reason I've been considering some alternatives to growing orchids – enter the anthurium, also known as the flamingo flower. It's another indoor flowering plant that puts on a display for several months at a time, in fact often longer than orchids. It's demands far less maintenance and has intriguing waxy blooms (or spathes, which are modified leaves) in bright colors – you're likely most familiar with the red anthurium (like this from The Sill).

They tolerate neglect much more than orchids and can adapt to a wider range of conditions. Though, anthuriums still needs a few essential needs met to thrive for months on end. Here, plant experts share their thoughts on why anthuriums are replacing orchids and why they're a better option for beginners.

The Trouble with Orchids

It's no secret that orchids are fussy houseplants with very particular care.

One of the biggest things houseplant owners struggle with is watering orchids correctly. Too much water and your orchid will turn yellow, too little and your orchid will wilt from dehydration.

Having said that, I have now mastered orchid watering by following one rule: only water with its roots look silver, not green. It's the easiest way to prevent orchid root rot, as well as using a well-draining potting mix like this orchid bark from Walmart.

Another problem with orchids is their lighting requirements. Natively, many moth orchids are found growing in tropical rainforest environments. This means they're accustomed to dappled light, rather than intense direct sun which can scorch their leaves.

At the same time, you'll notice your orchid's flowers falling off and drooping if it receives too little light. Mixed with the fact they thrive in high humidity, it can be hard to find a spot with the optimal balance – though this pebble humidity tray from Amazon can help boost humidity levels for your orchid.

Repotting orchid aerial roots can also be an awkward task, as you don't want to snap any. They also need repotting every couple of years, making it somewhat frequent compared to other houseplants that like being root-bound.

And as for their blooms, it is possible to get an orchid to rebloom, however this requires some specific care. More commonly they bloom just once a year, leaving you with a leafy, unassuming plant for the majority of the year.

For these reasons, orchids aren't necessarily the best plant for beginners or if you're looking for a showy flowering houseplant to display year-round.

Why Anthuriums Are Easier

While anthuriums come with their own list of care requirements, they are so much more straightforward and less fussy than orchids.

'Give them bright, indirect light, occasional fertilizer and keep them evenly moist, and they will reward you with beautiful long-lasting blooms,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

Anthuriums have waxy spathes in a wide range of colors, from red and pink, to purple and white. They tend to bloom from spring to fall, with each flower spike lasting for a few months at a time.

'The anthurium keeps sending up blooms as long as it is in the correct light. The orchid flowers last a long time but will have a resting period when it has no flowers,' says Lisa Eldred Steinkopf from the Houseplant Guru.

Unlike delicate orchid blooms, anthurium flowers are much more robust. Though, direct sun can cause sunburn, so it's best to keep them in an indirect light spot or behind a sheer curtain to filter light (like this one from Wayfair).

Anthuriums are also better suited to adapting to low light than orchids, but they will flower most prolifically in brighter light.

When it comes to watering, Lisa notes anthuriums are also much easier to manage:

'Anthuriums are forgiving of drying out a bit, but an orchid isn’t as forgiving. Its leaves may wrinkle, and its roots dry up,' she explains.

Having said that, anthuriums prefer consistent moisture, so you should water them when your soil moisture meter (which you can get from Amazon) indicates the top couple of inches of soil have dried out.

As for repotting, anthuriums need rehoming less frequently than orchids.

'Anthuriums only need to be repotted when they are rootbound or have grown tall, and the stem needs to be lowered in the pot,' Lisa says. 'Also, in my opinion, anthuriums are still a beautiful plant when they aren’t blooming. Orchids, not so much,' she adds.

With waxy foliage, anthuriums are also super easy to keep clean and keep pest-free. You can simply wipe them gently with these houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon.

Shop Anthurium Essentials

Best Anthurium Varieties

While you may picture red anthuriums when you think of flamingo flowers, there are actually so many other colors to consider to brighten up your home. Here are our top picks:

FAQs

Do Anthuriums Need Fertilizer?

Yes, anthuriums benefit from monthly fertilizing during spring and summer. A high-phosphorus anthurium feed (like this from Walmart) will support flowering. You should stop fertilizing in fall and winter. Our guide to fertilizing anthuriums has more guidance.

Once you anthurium is finished flowering, you can get an anthurium to bloom again but cutting the faded flower spikes at the base (you can use these sharp Fiskars micro snips from Amazon), and prioritizing optimal growing conditions.

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When you discover how easy it is to propagate a Christmas cactus, I guarantee you will not be able to stop. It is so simple to duplicate these holiday favorites and create new plants for your home for free.

If you already know how to grow a Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera, it will come as no surprise that these unique plants are wonderful winter indoor plants, exploding into flower when there is a distinct lack of color outside. Summer is a great time to grow houseplants from cuttings because the warmer conditions support fast rooting. Taking Christmas cactus cuttings now will reward you with a brand new plant by the time the holidays arrive.

So, whether you're looking to expand your own collection or create cuttings to give as holiday gifts, this expert guide to Christmas cactus propagation takes you through the process step-by-step. Just make sure to have your houseplant snips to hand – we recommend these Fiskars micro snips on Amazon.

1. Take a Healthy Cutting

Much like propagating a snake plant, propagating a Christmas cactus involves taking a segment of the stem to develop new roots. While you can take a few cuttings from a plant at a time, make sure not to cut back too much growth.

Removing too many leaves at once could cause stress or weakness and cause the parent plant to ultimately die.

When taking plant cuttings, it is also important to make sure your parent plant is healthy and free from disease or decay, as this will delay or even prevent root development altogether.

As with propagating succulents generally, it is also a good idea to sterilize your pruning scissors first to ensure you do not damage the plant.

You can use this rubbing alcohol from Walmart to clean your pruning tools.

You want to look for a short, Y-shaped cutting from your adult plant. This segment should contain at least two or three joined segments to ensure it is large enough to sustain growing its own roots.

2. Let the Cutting Dry

One of the biggest houseplant propagation mistakes is oversaturating cuttings, especially succulents like Christmas cactus which is susceptible to rot.

That's why it's important to let the cutting dry.

'Let the cutting sit out for a day so the cut end can callus over, which helps prevent rot,' says houseplant expert, Krystal Duran.

The callus acts as a protective layer for when the cutting is in soil or water, stopping it from rotting and allowing it to successfully root.

We recommend placing the cuttings on a piece of paper kitchen towel (just like what you would pick up from Walmart) to dry on a window ledge.

3. Place the Cutting in Soil

The easiest way to propagate a Christmas cactus from cuttings is by rooting it in soil, though it is also possible to propagate in water.

You should prepare the right potting mix for your succulent cuttings. This Miracle-Gro succulent potting mix from Amazon is ideal. Or, you can mix houseplant compost with perlite (which is also available on Amazon) and some bark to aid drainage and aeration.

Insert the callused end of your cutting into the potting mix, and firm it in gently to prevent it from falling over.

'You can also plant a few cuttings together in one pot for a fuller-looking plant,' suggests Krystal.

'Keep the soil lightly moist, but never soggy, and place it in bright space in front of a window,' she adds.

Water sparingly, and only increase as your cutting grows and develops. For extra reassurance, use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to avoid overwatering.

4. Or Propagate in Water

It can sometimes be a bit trickier, but it is entirely possible to root a Christmas cactus in water with the right care and conditions.

It's not necessary to let the cutting callus in this case.

Place the cut end of the stem with the bottom nodes of the two Y-shaped segments just below the water line, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight.

Make sure to avoid water propagation mistakes by refreshing the water regularly to keep it cleaned and topped up.

You may find a dedicated propagation station (I love this beaker-style one on Amazon) makes it easier to hold the cuttings in place and observe root growth.

5. Check Root Growth

'Roots usually begin to form within a few weeks. You will know when your soil-planted cutting has started rooting when a slight tug on the cutting will not budge and come out of the soil,' Krystal describes.

For water propagated cuttings, you should look for when the roots have grown as long as the stem itself, usually around six to eight weeks.

Once your plant displays signs of growth, such as small red buds on the end of stems, it may be time to repot a Christmas cactus and give it a bit more room to thrive.

Plant pots with drainage holes are best for a Christmas cactus because it ensures excess water can drain away and doesn't oversaturate the roots.

Wayfair have beautiful vintage-style floral planters that would look beautiful potted up with these holiday houseplants.

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Because Christmas cacti root so readily, propagating them is an ideal beginner-friendly project that can build confidence when it comes to multiplying more of your houseplant collection. It's true that some indoor plants are easier to grow than others, but there are a lot of houseplant myths out there that you needn't pay attention to – as we reveal here.

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Summer is such an exciting time in the indoor garden, with houseplants looking bright and having lots of new growth. But, without careful maintenance, the hotter room temperatures and humid air can cause problems. This is especially true for sensitive plants like the peace lily.

If you grow a peace lily in your home, then July calls for some close attention. Spring flower spikes may be fading, so some light pruning is needed to encourage reblooming later in the season. Likewise, regular watering and fertilizing will help encourage glossy foliage and new flowers (especially if you use a specific peace lily fertilizer, like this from Amazon). It's also important to check for pests this month, as they thrive in warmer conditions.

Really, this month is all about rejuvenating your peace lily after tiring spring blooming and encouraging it to flower again. Here, with insights from plant experts, I talk through exactly what to do with a peace lily in July with seven key tasks to tick off.

1. Remove Spent Flowers

Peace lilies tend to bloom once or twice a year, with spring being the main flowering period. This means by the time July comes around, it's typical for flower spikes to be fading.

If you want to get your peace lily to rebloom in late summer or fall, you need to remove faded flower spikes. Leaving them attached drains energy from the plant.

'As flowers fade, prune your peace lily by cutting the spent blooms off at the base. This tells the plant to redirect its energy toward producing new flowers rather than holding onto fading ones,' describes Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'If any older leaves are yellowing, trim those off too. This keeps the plant looking nice and removes foliage that's no longer needed,' she explains.

You should use clean and sharp pruning tools for this, like these Fiskars micro snips from Amazon.

2. Fertilize Your Peace Lily

With peace lilies actively growing in spring and summer, it's the perfect time to fertilize your peace lily and give it a boost of essential plant nutrients to support new growth and encourage new blooms.

'If the peace lily is actively growing, a light feeding can help. I prefer a balanced houseplant fertilizer at half strength about once every four to six weeks during spring and summer,' says houseplant expert Rosalin Ortega.

As Rosalin notes, you can use a balanced houseplant feed (like this Miracle Gro one from Walmart), or you can use a specific peace lily fertilizer (like this one from Amazon) which is a special blend to encourage blooming.

You can also try a DIY to make your own peace lily fertilizer, which can provide a gentler feed.

'The key is not to overfertilize, because peace lilies can be sensitive and too much fertilizer may cause brown tips or salt build-up in the soil,' Rosalin warns.

As we progress into mid-late summer, you should reduce fertilizing frequency for this reason.

3. Water Your Peace Lily Deeply

One of the most important parts of summer houseplant care is getting watering right. As temperatures rise, houseplant soil dries out more quickly and plants become susceptible to drought.

'In July, watering usually becomes more important because warmer temperatures and longer days make the soil dry faster,' Rosalin says.

'Peace lilies like evenly moist soil, but not soggy soil. I suggest watering your peace lily when the top inch of soil feels dry. If the peace lily starts to droop, that is often its way of asking for water, but ideally you do not want to wait until it collapses every time,' she adds.

I suggest using a soil moisture meter (I use this one from Amazon) to check your peace lily's soil a couple times a week during heatwaves. This will allow you to identify when your plant needs watering in such hot temperatures.

A handy tool to use during hot weather is a houseplant irrigation system. This digital houseplant irrigation kit from Amazon actually automatically waters plants when it identifies dry soil. This ensures roots stay consistently hydrated, ideal for plants like peace lilies.

4. Avoid Direct Sun

Peace lilies are native to tropical rainforests in Central and South America, where they grow in dappled light under tree canopies. While bright, indirect light is essential to encourage healthy growth, intense afternoon sun in summer can cause leaf scorch.

'July sunlight can be intense enough to scorch the leaves, turning peace lily leaves brown. If the plant has been sitting on a sunny windowsill all spring, move it back a few feet or filter the light with a sheer curtain,' Marina advises.

Something as simple as this Wayfair sheer curtain can effectively filter intense sunlight to protect your peace lily's sensitive foliage.

Take care not to move it to a super dark spot, however, as this will slow down growth and make reblooming less likely.

Because peace lilies enjoy extra humidity (50-70%), a bright bathroom can be an ideal home for them.

5. Check for Pests

Houseplant pests thrive in summer with warm conditions and consistently wet soil. That's why it's important to check foliage regularly to catch any pests as soon as you can.

'July is a smart time to check for common pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and fungus gnats. I like to inspect the undersides of leaves, look closely at new growth, and check whether the soil is staying wet for too long,' Rosalin describes.

'Cleaning houseplant leaves also makes it easier to catch early problems,' she adds.

You can use microfiber cloths from Walmart to gently wipe leaves, or houseplant dusting gloves (like these from Amazon).

'Spider mites love low humidity and can spread quickly on a stressed plant. If you notice fine webbing or tiny dusty specks, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth or give the plant a gentle shower. The earlier you catch them, the easier they are to deal with,' Marina says.

Regularly misting your peace lily with this houseplant mister from Walmart can also raise humidity and make plants less inhabitable to pests. To take it a step further, install a humidifier (like this from Amazon).

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As well as keeping on top of summer care for your peace lily, you can support its health by placing it in the right spot. Somewhere bright and humid is a good spot, but take care to avoid the places to never grow a peace lily, including on a scorching south-facing windowsill and in the path of a cold AC draft.

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My home increasingly looks like an indoor jungle and I love it. Though, I'm the first to admit I've made my fair few houseplant mistakes along the way, including overwatering. This causes a lot of problems for plants, including discoloring foliage and – perhaps the most annoying – the tiny black flies known as fungus gnats.

Common indoor plant mistakes like incorrect watering often attract fungus gnats because it creates a damp and moldy environment for them to thrive in. The worst part? These little bugs multiply quickly and will take up residence in every indoor plant you have if you don't act fast (I find these yellow sticky fly traps from Amazon work every time for catching them.)

This happened to me when a houseplant gnat infestation got a little out of control, so I began researching how to get rid of gnats in plants. Ever since, I've made some adjustments to my indoor plant care regime and they're now looking the best they ever have – my indoor garden has been free of gnats ever since. So, to help you conquer these tiny pests, I've compiled my top tips to keep them away.

1. Always Use Houseplant Potting Mix

It all starts in the soil, as not every soil type will be right for every plant. For example, growing orchids, require a very light potting mix that allows for proper drainage and for aerial roots to have good airflow. This orchid potting bark from Walmart is a top choice.

So, what is the best potting soil for indoor plants? It really does depend on the specific requirements of your plant, however you should always use a well-draining potting mix for potted plants so that excess moisture doesn't become trapped in the container and cause houseplant root rot.

This is where I made my first error. In the excitement of adding new plants to my home, I used quite a dense potting soil that wasn't quite right for each of my plants – especially those that don't like soggy soil, like calatheas.

This incorrect potting mix not only creates a damp environment for fungus gnats to thrive, but it also causes foliage to turn yellow and curl.

The first thing I did in an attempt to rid my plants of gnats is change out the soil, rinsing roots down before repotting them to get rid of any fungus larvae that may be lurking below soil level.

I then sought out well-draining houseplant soil, like this indoor potting mix from Amazon, to ensure my plants wouldn't be sitting in oversaturated soil and excess water good drain easily.

'You can also amend your soil with chunky amendments like perlite (like this from Amazon) or pumice to optimize drainage,' notes Vladan Nikolic from Mr. Houseplant.

2. Maintain Good Airflow

It's a no-brainer that having good air circulation will prevent a damp environment and stop a build-up of fungus and mold in your houseplant soil – things that will attract fungus gnats and other common houseplant pests.

While it's true that placing houseplants close together can beneficially increase humidity for indoor plants, I also take care to ensure my plants have good air circulation by giving them space and regularly opening windows.

'Proper room ventilation is another good preventive measure against gnats. It’ll bring down excess humidity and help the soil dry faster, reducing gnat numbers as a result,' notes Julia Omelchenko, botany expert for the Plantum app.

'Aside from regularly opening your windows, you can also run a fan on low speeds where your plants are situated. Avoid cold drafts and don’t point the fan at the plants,' she adds.

You might want to invest in a fan like this tower fan from Walmart, although it's also worth researching how much it costs to run a fan 24/7 and adjust how long you have your fan on accordingly.

Ensuring there is good air circulation around my houseplants has also helped to keep larger plants, like my monstera, looking brighter, as my houseplants capture less dust.

3. Allow Houseplant Soil to Dry

The root of all gnat problems is dampness and incorrect moisture levels in soil, so I learned very quickly that you need to give your plants time to dry out in order to effectively get rid of a houseplant gnat infestation.

This may sound concerning if you have particularly thirsty houseplants that don't like to sit in dry soil, however allowing a period of dryness to clean up your gnat problem will leave your plants happier in the long term.

'The first and easiest remedy for a gnat infestation is to allow the soil to dry out. Hold off watering until at least the top half of the soil has dried. Let the soil dry completely if you have succulents,' says Vladan.

'Fungus gnats dislike dry soil, and they can’t survive in dry conditions. To help your plants absorb water faster and speed up soil drying, give your plants more light,' he adds.

I also opt for terracotta indoor planters and pots with drainage holes for my indoor plants, which aids drainage and speeds up the drying out process. These terracotta pots from Amazon are a good example.

Get Rid of Fungus Gnats for Good

4. Ditch a Watering Schedule

Not only do you need to allow your soil to dry out to get rid of a houseplant gnat infestation, but it's also important to improve your watering regime going forward to avoid creating a damp environment again.

Knowing when to water plants is something that took me a little while to master, and every novice houseplant owner will have to tackle the hurdle of becoming familiar with the watering requirements of new plants.

The rule of thumb is to always check your soil before watering your houseplants, as there is no set frequency for every plant.

'The watering frequency depends on plant species and environmental factors, but you should always let at least the top inch of the soil dry out,' notes Vladan.

'Optimal watering is important not only to ensure good plant health but to prevent fungus gnat infestations as well. Water each plant according to its requirements, allowing the topsoil to dry off between watering,' says Julia.

'Check the soil moisture level with your finger or a wooden stick,' she adds.

Before I experienced gnat infestation, I tried establishing a watering schedule – often once a week for most of my plants. Now, I never water my houseplants without a moisture meter (like this soil moisture meter from Amazon.) It allows you to check how much of the soil has dried in your plant pot, ensuring you don't over or underwater again.

5. Use Sticky Fly Traps

Amending the moisture levels in your soil isn't enough to get rid of adult fungus gnats that are already flying around. Instead, they need to be captured to stop them lay any more eggs in your houseplants' soil.

These sticky fly traps from Amazon helped me to rid my indoor garden of gnats quickly. They're simple to use, as you just place them in your plant pot and it will capture flying gnats.

'Since gnats are attracted to yellow color, they fly towards the sticky traps and get stuck,' explains Vladan.

Depending on how severe your infestation is, you may find you need to swap out your sticky fly traps with new ones a few times. Just take care to not get them stuck to the foliage of your plants, as it could rip leaves and cause damage.

These traps will also help with other pests and can be used outdoors, too. Going forward, it can be a good idea to pop these fly traps in plants as soon as you spot gnats to prevent an infestation developing.

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FAQs

How Long Does It Take to Get Rid of a Gnat Infestation?

Fungus gnats have a lifespan of one to two weeks, so it is recommend to persistently tackle a gnat infestation for up to two months to get rid of the problem entirely. This means not only capturing the adult gnats that are flying around, but also tackling the larvae and eggs in the soil that are yet to hatch. Maintain an uninhabitable environment in your plant's soil for a few weeks at a time and you should see your gnat problem disappear.

Can I Use Insecticides to Get Rid of Gnats?

Yes, you can use insecticides to get rid of gnats. However, be aware that some of these products contain chemicals that many are hesitant to release into their plant's soil. Some products that experts recommend include neem oil spray, like this neem oil from Amazon, and mosquito bits, like these mosquito bits from Amazon.

'Mosquito bits are pellets made of corn cob. They contain the bacteria Bacillus Thurigiensis israelensis (BTI), which is effective against fungus gnats,' notes Vladan Nikolic from Mr. Houseplant.

'Put Mosquito bits in water that you use to water your plants. Mix 4 tablespoons of mosquito bits per half a gallon of water. Leave them in for about 30 minutes so BTI can separate from corn cobs and be released into the water. Gnat larvae will eat BTI and die,' he adds.

We recommend always researching insecticides before use and following manufacturer instructions.

After around six weeks of consistently tackling my gnat infestation, there wasn't a gnat to be seen. I have since continued to provide my houseplants with this optimal care and they look healthier than ever.

If you're struggling to tackle a gnat infestation, try one of these DIY gnat traps to help eliminate them from your home. Alternatively, you can try the hack to get rid of fungus gnats using a potato.

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As a brutal heat dome shatters temperature records across the Midwest, South, and East Coast, keeping our homes cool and comfortable has become a top priority. While blasting the AC is a standard go-to, certain houseplants offer a natural, budget-friendly way to help bring down indoor temperatures.

Plants achieve this through transpiration; a process where water travels up from the roots and evaporates through the leaves, acting like a built-in evaporative cooling system for your living space. Much like air-cleaning varieties, some houseplants are far more efficient at cooling their surroundings than others.

Here are five exceptional, air-cooling plants to bring into your home to beat the heat. And if you want to act fast with heat-beating indoor plants, this Aglaonema Wishes (or Chinese evergreen) from The Sill is a stunning place to start.

1. Snake Plant

It is no surprise that the snake plant tops the list. While famously celebrated for its air-purifying qualities and being the answer to better sleep, it is equally efficient at cooling down indoor spaces.

'The snake plant, known for its resilience and air purification abilities, releases oxygen at night and filters out toxins, making it a fantastic cooling bedroom plant,' explains Autumn Janus of Perfect Plants.

Because it does its heavy lifting at night, keeping one on your nightstand helps lower the ambient temperature right where you sleep. It is also an incredibly forgiving option for beginners.

'It is an easy indoor plant, requiring very little water, and grows well in medium light,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants. However, she warns to take care not to overwater, as excessive moisture will quickly cause the leaves to turn yellow and rot.

This impressive snake plant at Fast Growing Trees tolerates irregular watering.

2. Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is also a succulent that can help to cool down surrounding air; although experts note that this group of plants transpire in a different way to other plants.

'Because these are desert plants, they've adapted to be able to close their stomatas during the daytime to prevent moisture loss during the hottest part of the day. Instead, they absorb water and transpire at night,' says Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything.

'This is how they've adapted to living in the most intense desert conditions. Thus, while succulents are great at transpiration, you may not notice the effect during the daytime,' she adds.

As a result, aloe vera can be a great plant to have in your bedroom to help keep things cool during summer nights.

You can find aloe vera plants grown by Costa Farms at Amazon.

3. Boston Fern

Succulents and hardy statement plants are not your only options for beating the heat. Indoor ferns are exceptionally skilled at cooling down a room.

Specifically, the dense, feathery fronds of the Boston fern offer a massive surface area, allowing the plant to pump significant moisture into the air through transpiration.

'A good air-cooling plant when happy,' notes Julie Bawden-Davis. "However, this plant will struggle in low-humidity homes, which will cause leaflet drop."

Because it actively humidifies its surroundings to cool the air, a dry indoor environment can backfire on the plant itself, causing its vibrant fronds to turn crisp and brown. To keep it thriving, position your fern in a bright spot with indirect sunlight and keep its moisture levels up.

Give your fern a helping hand by regularly misting it to mimic its native tropical environment. You can pick up a stylish, fine-mist Glass Plant Mister on Amazon to boost the surrounding humidity.

You can find beautiful Boston fern plants at Walmart.

We are also obsessed with this foxtail fern from The Sill, which works in much the same way.

4. Peace Lily

If indoor flowering plants are your thing, then opting for a peace lily this summer can be a great way to keep your interiors cool. These beautiful plants have luscious foliage that can aid transpiration and evaporation.

You can find a Costa Farms peace lily available from Amazon.

'Featuring elegant white flowers and glossy green leaves, peace lilies not only enhance the aesthetics of a room but also acts as a natural humidifier, ultimately helping to cool the air and improve air quality,' says Autumn Janus.

These plants will flower for months at a time, but make sure to prune your peace lily after flowering to encourage returning blooms.

5. Chinese Evergreen

If you are looking for a striking foliage plant that pulls double duty as a room cooler, the Chinese evergreen is an exceptional choice. Famous for its patterned, variegated leaves, this plant is a powerhouse when it comes to improving indoor air quality and regulating ambient room temperatures.

The secret to its cooling success lies in its broad, large leaves. Because it has plenty of surface area to work with, the Chinese evergreen has a high transpiration rate, steadily releasing moisture back into hot, dry rooms to create a localized cooling effect.

Even better, it thrives in low-to-medium indirect light, meaning you can place it in warmer corners of the house that do not get direct sun.

Keep the soil evenly moist but well-drained during the peak summer months. If you notice the leaf tips beginning to turn brown, it is a sign that the ambient air is too dry, and a quick misting or placing it near a pebble tray will easily fix the issue.

You can add some lush, temperature-regulating color to your home office with a vibrant Chinese Evergreen from Bloomscape or explore this pink-leaf variety of aglaonema on Amazon.

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FAQs

How Many Plants do I Need to Cool the Air?

There are many houseplants that can help keep the air in your home cool through the process of transpiration. However, it should be noted that you will need multiple plants for the effect to take place.

'You'd need to be living amongst a lot of plants for the effect of transpiration to be felt,' says Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything. 'Each small plant's transpiration only effects the immediate area around the plant,' she adds.

If you want to create an effective cooling system using houseplants, it's a good idea to create an indoor jungle with some of the most efficient air-cooling plants.

As extreme heat kicks in, you might want to consider turning to plants to help keep you cool. Team with some large leafed tropical plants, such as a kentia palm or a strelitzia, to create some natural shade in your home, too.

If you're looking for other ways houseplants can enhance our interior spaces, you find out how houseplants can reduce dust in your home in our guide.

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My string of hearts is undoubtedly the cutest houseplant in my collection. Long strings adorned with heart-shaped leaves never fail to capture my guests' attention. But, when these plants drop their leaves, the bare strands aren't so attractive.

It's a common problem when growing a string of hearts (whether a standard variety or a variegated string of hearts, like this from Walmart). Prolonged drought, incorrect lighting, pest problems, and other issues can all result in leaves dropping quickly and even contribute to the gradual decline of the the plant.

The good news is a simple adjustment in its growing environment will help your string of hearts recover quickly and stop it from happening again. Here, a houseplant expert explains the five common causes behind a string of hearts dropping leaves and what to do to fix it.

1. Severe Dehydration

The number one cause behind a string of hearts dropping leaves is a lack of water.

Sing of hearts is a semi-succulent plant with fleshy leaves and tubers that store water. This means they can cope with some drought, but prolonged periods will result in symptoms like leaf drop.

'If the plant hasn’t been watered for several weeks or months, it’ll go into survival mode. The leaves will become thin, wrinkled, and limp,' explains Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'To conserve its remaining moisture, the string of hearts begins sacrificing older leaves (usually near the base), which dry up and fall off,' she describes.

To fix this, use houseplant gardening snips (these Fiskars ones on Amazon are a reliable choice) to prune away any damaged, dehydrated foliage. You should then adjust your houseplant watering approach.

'Water the plant thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes. If the houseplant soil has become so dry that it doesn't absorb water and has pulled away from the sides of the pot, use the bottom watering method: place the pot in a container of water for 15–20 minutes so the root ball can fully rehydrate,' Marina suggests.

2. Root Rot

The other end of watering mistakes is oversaturating your string of hearts' soil. These delicate trailing plants don't cope with soggy conditions and are susceptible to houseplant root rot from sitting in waterlogged soil.

'Without a healthy root system, the leaves turn yellow, become soft, and fall off,' Marina notes.

'The best thing to do is let the soil dry out completely, all the way to the bottom of the pot, before watering again. Use pots with drainage holes and a light, well-draining potting mix (a succulent mix with added perlite is ideal, like this succulent potting mix from Walmart),' she adds.

If your string of hearts' roots are really mushy, you may need to prune houseplant roots. Focus on removing the most damaged ones, leaving a sufficient root system with firm roots and tubers.

I also suggest picking up a soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon) weekly to check your string of hearts' soil. This will identify just how wet the soil is and if it's time to top up water or let it dry out for a bit longer.

3. Insufficient Light

It's common to style these houseplants on a high shelf or bookcase, with its vines cascading down. While no doubt beautiful, this often leaves the top of the plant in a darker spot.

'As a result, the long stems hang beautifully in the light, while the base of the plant in the pot remains in complete shade. The leaves at the base begin to thin and drop,' Marina says.

'The top of the plant becomes completely bare, even though the vines below may continue growing,' she explains.

Ideally, string of hearts need 4-6 hours of bright light, with exposure over all of the plant. Though, you should avoid a direct sun position which can cause sunburn and leaf scorch.

'Lower the pot. Light should fall from above, illuminating the soil surface and the bases of the stems,' Marina suggests.

You can also supplement daylight with a grow light. This houseplant grow light from Amazon with an automatic timer is low-effort to use.

4. Cold Drafts

Temperature fluctuations can shock plants and cause symptoms like stunted growth and leaf drop. When it comes to string of hearts, its sudden cold drafts that cause such symptoms.

'Native to South Africa, this semi-succulent loves stable warmth, around 64-77°F and reacts immediately to sudden environmental changes. Leaves may drop in large numbers while still green, sometimes within just a few days,' Marina says.

'The cause may be a cold draft from an open window in winter, from an air conditioner, or proximity to a hot radiator, which dries out the stems,' she notes.

For this reason, you should position your string of hearts in a warm corner of the home, out of the path of a draft. Don't forget to also follow winter houseplant care by moving your string of hearts away from cold windows.

'Avoid rotating or moving the pot unnecessarily over the next few weeks while it recovers,' Marina advises.

You can use this room thermometer from Walmart to monitor the temperature for your string of hearts going forward.

5. Pest Damage

String of hearts can come under attack of a range of houseplant pests, most notably spider mites and mealybugs, as well as aphids and scale insects.

'The string of hearts is resistant to many problems, but dry air and weakened vigor can make it vulnerable to pests,' says Marina. 'If infested, the leaves develop yellow patches, become deformed, curl, and eventually fall off,' she explains.

It's important to determine which pest is attacking your string of hearts to know how to get rid of them. Fine webbing is a sign of spider mites, while white, sticky clumps on stem nodes may indicate mealybugs.

You should isolate the plant so the pests don't spread to other houseplants, and deal with the infestation accordingly. Our guide to getting rid of spider mites on houseplants has more information, for example.

To avoid a pest problem in the future, regularly check your string of hearts, including underneath its leaves where they can be found hiding, and take care to clean your houseplant leaves.

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Once your string of hearts has bounced back from dropping leaves, you can try propagating your string of hearts to get more plants for free. Take care to read up on water propagation mistakes before doing this, to boost your chances of success.

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In my experience, getting watering right is the number one thing houseplant owners struggle with. One common occurrence is when incorrect watering turns soil hydrophobic, meaning it won't absorb any water or it dries unevenly.

This is the result of common indoor plant mistakes where soil is left to stay dry for too long, the potting mix is old, or it can be the result of intense heat. These things actually turn soil repellent to water, so you'll see it pool on the surface and struggle to absorb.

The good news is it's super easy to resolve hydrophobic soil and improve your houseplant's growing environment. Here, I share the steps I take when my houseplant soil won't absorb water and how I avoid it happening again.

What Causes Hydrophobic Soil?

There are several causes behind why houseplant soil won't absorb water.

While there are several houseplants that thrive on neglect, leaving soil to sit in a prolonged period of drought can result in houseplant potting mix becoming unable to absorb water.

This is especially the case when potting mix has peat moss or coco coir in it, both of which turn waxy and water-repellent when left to dry out entirely.

Likewise, drought can shrink and shrivel your plant's root ball, resulting in it pulling the soil away from the edges of the pot. When you then water your houseplants, you'll spot the water trickling down the sides of the pot, rather than being absorbed from the surface.

This is worsened during hot spells, where room temperature is significantly higher and dries soil out faster. Without increasing watering frequency to support this, your plants are at risk of heat stress, leaf scorch, and hydrophobic soil.

Another cause behind why houseplant soil won't absorb water is the age of the potting mix. Organic components in the soil break down over time and the soil becomes compacted, making it trickier to absorb water.

Fertilizing mistakes and excess plant food can likewise be a cause. This is because it can create crystalized barriers in the soil, stopping full absorption.

Whatever the case, it's best to act immediately when you spot water isn't absorbing properly, so your plants aren't left to dehydrate and excess pooling water doesn't cause mold on the soil surface.

How to Fix It

I personally like to give my houseplants struggling with hydrophobic soil fresh new houseplant potting mix.

The best potting mix for indoor plants is a peat-free, well-draining, and moisture retentive blend (like this Miracle-Gro houseplant potting mix from Lowe's). Though, you can also opt for specific blends for plants, like this monstera potting mix from Amazon.

When repotting with the new mix, gently brush away any soil on the roots. The new soil will then provide a brand new, healthy and nutrient-rich growing environment for your plants.

If your houseplants are severely dehydrated, try soaking the root ball in a bowl of water for 20 minutes before repotting to rehydrate it.

You should also use the pencil trick to aerate houseplant soil. I like to do this every so often to ensure the soil remains well-draining and breathable for roots. If you're houseplant soil is only just starting to absorb water slowly, this can be enough to fix it.

Going forward, make sure to also use a soil moisture meter (I have this one on Amazon) every time you pick up your houseplant watering can. This will tell you just how wet the soil is, so you never over or underwater again.

Bottom watering houseplants can also improve moisture management. It allows the roots to soak up sufficient water without becoming oversaturated. Using a self-watering planter (like these pretty green ones on Amazon) provides a reservoir so plants don't become dehydrated.

What to Shop

There are quite a few summer houseplant care mistakes to be aware of as we approach the hottest months of the year. This includes watering too often and not checking for pests regularly. Getting into a routine with checking your houseplants weekly during summer can help prevent bigger issues developing.

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June is when jade plants (Crassula ovata) really start to respond to the changing conditions. The days are longer, the light is stronger, and temperatures are starting to rise, which usually nudges them into more active growth.

If your jade plant care is on track at this point, the plant will generally stay compact, healthy, and well-shaped. If something’s off, though, it shows fairly quickly – you’ll start to notice leggy stems or a slightly uneven look.

The good news is that jade plants are forgiving. Trust me, I've often neglected mine in the past, and it has continued to thrive.

When thinking about what to do with a jade plant in June, it usually comes down to a few small, timely adjustments rather than anything complicated. Those simple tweaks now can make a real difference in how the plant looks throughout summer.

1. Move It Into Brighter Light

If your jade plant has been sitting in a lower-light spot through spring, June is a good time to give it a little more sun. One of the biggest parts of where to place a jade plant is finding a spot with plenty of bright light, ideally with a few hours of gentle direct sun each day.

A south- or west-facing windowsill is usually a good fit. Just avoid moving it straight into intense midday sun too quickly, as the leaves can scorch if the change is too sudden.

If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, a simple grow light can help. Something like the full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon works well for supplementing light levels, especially in darker rooms or apartments.

If you’re moving your jade outdoors for summer, ease it in gradually. Start it in light shade for a few days, then slowly increase the amount of sun it gets over the course of a week or so. That gentle adjustment helps prevent stress and keeps the leaves looking healthy.

2. Water More Thoughtfully, Not More Frequently

It’s easy to assume warmer weather means you need to water a jade plant more often, but that’s usually where people go wrong. Even in June, jade plants still prefer a 'soak and dry' routine rather than frequent watering. Wait until the soil has dried out, then water thoroughly so the roots get a proper soak. In most homes, that works out to roughly every 10–14 days during summer, though it’s always better to check the soil than follow a strict schedule.

If you tend to forget to water, I actually love using the best-selling Iridescent Self-Watering Globes from Amazon as a little backup during warmer months. They help keep moisture levels steadier without leaving the compost soggy, and they’re far nicer to look at than most practical plant accessories.

The leaves are a useful guide, too. Healthy jade leaves should feel firm and plump. If they start looking soft, thin, or slightly wrinkled, the plant is usually trying to tell you something is off – often either too much water or not enough.

3. Give It A Light Prune To Shape Growth

If your jade is starting to look a little uneven or top-heavy, June is a good time to prune a jade plant and tidy up its shape. You don’t need to be heavy-handed with it, either. Simply pinching back a few newer stems just above a leaf node is often enough to encourage fuller, bushier growth.

Over time, this helps create the thicker, more tree-like structure jade plants are loved for. I like using the Felco Snip Pruning Shears from The Home Depot for quick shaping jobs, though the Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Stems from Amazon are great too if you want something smaller and easier to manoeuvre indoors.

While you’re pruning, it’s also worth removing any weak, crowded, or drooping stems. Opening the plant up slightly improves airflow and helps keep the overall shape looking healthier and more even.

4. Feed Lightly For Steady Growth

Jade plants don’t need much feeding, but a little support in June can help them along. When you fertilize a container plant, such as jade, less really is more – a diluted cactus or succulent fertilizer once a month is usually plenty. I’ve had good results with something like TPS Jade Fertilizer from Amazon, which is formulated specifically for succulents and keeps things simple without encouraging overly soft growth.

The key here is restraint. Too much feed can lead to leggy, weak stems that don’t hold their shape well, which is the opposite of what you want. It’s better to think of it as a gentle nudge to support steady growth, rather than anything more forceful.

5. Keep An Eye On What It’s Telling You

One of the easiest ways to care for jade plants well is simply to keep an eye on them. They’re more expressive than you might expect, and they’ll usually show you pretty quickly if something’s not right.

If the light is too low, you’ll often notice stretched stems and wider gaps between the leaves. On the other hand, too much harsh sun can leave the edges looking dry or slightly red and crispy. When conditions are just right, growth stays compact, and the leaves take on a rich, glossy green, sometimes with a subtle red tint in stronger light.

It is important to note that Jade plants don’t love sudden changes, so a gradual move always works better than a sudden change.

June isn’t really about trying to push jade plants into fast growth – it’s more about helping them settle into a steady, balanced rhythm for summer. If you get the light right, water a little more thoughtfully, and give it a light tidy-up where needed, you’re most of the way there.

Follow this advice, and your jade should stay compact, glossy, and nicely structured well into the warmer months.

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While there's no doubt adding some live plants to your home will bring joy, knowing how to arrange them is key to transforming interiors into an indoor garden. Just like curating a garden border, designers say you can layer houseplants for lush greenery that turns your home into an oasis.

It's one technique you can use to style houseplants that specifically focuses on bringing together varying heights, textures, and colors for an indoor botanical spectacle. The best part is you can personalize this for your desired outcome, from creating some screening for a quiet reading nook, to displaying houseplants as artwork.

Here, the experts share their favorite tips for taking your houseplant display to the next level.

1. Start With a Focal Plant

If you're feeling lost with how to layer houseplants, the experts recommend starting with a statement tall indoor plant to act as a focal point.

'Layering houseplants can be done the same way as furniture, really,' says Ann Marie Winkler, designer from Huron Interiors.

'You start with the bigger statement plant, a fiddle leaf fig, an olive tree, whatever has the desired presence, and you build the medium ones around that,' she describes.

Some of the best indoor trees work well for a focal plant, including this Fiddle Leaf Fig from The Sill or this Majesty Palm from Lowe's.

This provides some height and architectural structure for your display. Consider positioning them at the back of the arrangement, or to the sides, ensuring the shorter plants stay visible.

2. Use Plant Stands

Don't underestimate the value of plant stands when layering houseplants. These handy tools can (literally) elevate the smallest houseplants.

'One mistake we often see is people placing plants at the same level. Everything ends up looking like one big mass,' says Adrian Aviles, houseplant expert and owner of Athletic Club Flower Shop.

'Putting plants at different heights usually looks better. You can use plant stands, shelves, and even simple risers to create layers and make the plants feel more natural,' he adds.

The great news is there are so many different plant stands available on the market to choose from.

You can opt for a tiered one, like this large tiered wooden plant stand from Amazon, to hold multiple plants at different levels. Or, use a singular plant stand (like this pretty white one from IKEA) to put your favorite plant on a pedestal.

3. Mix a Range of Leaf Shapes

One of the best things about collecting houseplants is the never-ending shapes and silhouettes to discover. From indoor ferns' feathery foliage, to statement succulents with unique curved shapes.

'Don't stick with all the same type of plant, it reads kind of flat,' says Ann Marie. 'You want different leaf shapes and different sizes for a more collected feel,' she describes.

You can also add in indoor variegated foliage for pops of color. 'Thai Constellation' Monstera (available at The Sill) is a popular choice, with cream-green patterned leaves.

You may also want to explore houseplants with heart-shaped leaves for a playful addition, like this Heartleaf Philodendron from Amazon.