As winter temperatures drop, many of us focus on sealing up windows and doors, but there is a tiny, overlooked spot quietly draining your heat and hiking your energy bills – Your outlets.

As small as they may be, these weak points are ‘basically holes in your walls’, heating experts point out. Luckily, they are quick, easy, and cheap to draft-proof, our pros assure.

Here is how the pros take under five minutes to create a warmer, more comfortable home.

How To Insulate Outlets

Knowing how and where to insulate your home to keep it warm often requires thinking outside the box.

Dan Cronen, HVAC expert at SupplyHouse, says, ‘An outlet on an exterior wall is basically a hole in the wall. Sure, it’s covered, but it is not normally sealed. Year-round, your heated or air-conditioned air will be bleeding through those gaps, and that is heat or AC you paid for.

'If you live in new construction, it likely will be sealed up pretty tight already, but the older and poorer insulated and sealed your home is, the more money that is seeping through the cracks.’

To instantly make heating more efficient and insulate your wall to lower bills, Dan suggests finding pre-cut insulating foam pads. They are available at all big box stores, he assures – for instance, the Frost King Weatherstrip Plates from Lowe’s for light switches, or the MD Building Products Outlet Foam Sealers from The Home Depot.

You do not need to do this for outlets on interior walls, just those that lead outside.

The Five-Minute Fix

Unscrew the cover plate, slip the appropriate gasket behind it, and screw it back on. It’s a do-it-once, last forever home improvement that will save you money from that moment on,’ Dan explains. It is probably best to turn the electrics off at the main breaker first, for safety. This multi-head screwdriver kit from Walmart will also help to remove the covers.

To really seal off drafts, Jon Gilbertson, HVAC expert and president at Chris Heating & Cooling, also suggests, ‘a bead of silicone around the outside of the box works great for stopping those tiny drafts coming through exterior-wall outlets.’

You can find top-rated GE silicone at Walmart. Jon adds, ‘When picking a foam insulating gasket, make sure it matches your outlet type so it seals fully behind the wall plate: Single, double, two-gang, or three-gang. Foam gaskets around 3mm thick block drafts much better than paper-thin ones.'

When it comes to the outlet itself, Dan then suggests investing in some child-proof outlet covers, available at Walmart. ‘You know, the ones you put in to keep little Johnny from learning about electricity the hard way with a fork in the outlet? Air can leak through the holes for the prongs on the plug as well, so those safety covers will close them up.'

If you have a newer home or replace your receptacles with tamper-proof outlets, they close themselves off when not in use, so you don’t need to worry about it.

What to Shop

Meet the Experts

Adding insulation is a big part of keeping a poorly insulated home warm, but it isn’t the only upgrade worth investing in. Consider a smart thermostat to program the perfect winter heating schedule and avoid energy wastage that way, too.

Snowy rooftops can look magical in winter but did you know this winter display also offers you valuable, instant insight into the state of your home’s attic insulation?

Top contractors have explained that snow and frost are the single best diagnostic tool for your home’s insulation, offering a visual rundown of exactly where you might be losing money, all from a single glance.

Here, they explain exactly how to tell if your attic insulation is doing its job based on the snow patterns on your roof, and what to do if your insulation isn’t performing as it should.

How snow can help you check your attic insulation

Checking the snow on your roof is a great maintenance task to help lower energy bills.

Michael Feazel, CEO of Roof Maxx explains, ‘An evenly distributed snow load that takes longer to melt is a good indicator that the insulation is doing its job and keeping heat inside the home.’

On the other hand, Constantine Anest, roofing contractor and owner of Ethos Roofing and Restoration says, ‘If you notice that snow on the roof is melting unevenly, this could be a sign of insulation problems. Why? Because when the snow melts faster in certain areas of the roof, it most likely indicates that heat is escaping through these spots, and the insulation is not performing its role.’

If no snow has settled on your roof, then it might be a sign that you do not have any insulation whatsoever, signaling that you need to improve your EPC rating to reduce energy bills.

Sydney Archer of Kiser Construction continues, ‘Another telltale sign that your attic insulation may need updating is an ice dam forming on your roof.'

These occur when warm air escapes your attic, melting snow and ice on the roof. The water then accumulates in your gutters and downspouts, but when temperatures drop, it freezes and forms a dam. 'This cycle of freezing and thawing can cause damage to gutters and eaves,' explains Sydney, 'allowing moisture to seep into your attic beneath the roof shingles and decking. This leads to interior water damage.’

This makes cleaning your gutters to prevent gutters from clogging and insulating your attic vital when preparing a house for cold weather. Neglecting to check for ice dams through the colder months is a home maintenance mistake to never make in winter.

Sydney urges you to double check your roof after snow or frost for a quick visual indicator of its performance, even if you are confident that all is well. He explains, ‘Blanket fiberglass insulation is the most common type of insulation, but this only has an average lifespan of 15 years. So, if your home was built more than 15 years ago and you have fiberglass insulation that has never been replaced, it’s probably time to upgrade.’

Learn the tell tale signs it's time to replace your insulation.

Rather than continue to struggle to keep a poorly insulated home warm, Michael Feazel suggests, ‘If you do notice any of these issues, the next steps should be to inspect the roof and look closely for gaps in insulation, damage or "compressed" material, and (fingers crossed not) moisture and mold.

‘It's very critical to keep a close eye on these problems as sealing air leaks and ensuring proper ventilation is important when preventing future issues and improving efficiency. In reality, you are probably best served engaging with a professional who will make sure the fixes are done correctly.’

Sydney Archer has a preference on attic insulation types. He says, ‘Spray foam does the best job of insulating an attic. When it’s applied properly by a professional, spray foam insulation can last a lifetime, so you never have to worry about replacing it. It will help prevent ice dams and save money at home, too!’

FAQs

What happens if you don’t remove snow from your roof?

In areas with only a light smattering of snow (a few inches), your roof is one of the many places you shouldn’t clear snow, as the dangers outweigh the benefits. However, if lots of heavy snow has settled on your roof, then it can apply pressure to the structure, possibly causing damage or, in extreme cases, collapse. This generally only applies to packed snow thicker than two feet, especially on flat roofs and smaller roofs such as those on porches and sunrooms. It is usually best to call the pros, who will have right equipment and specialist safety measures to tackle this safely for you.

Can you put too much insulation in an attic?

While it is good to have a well-insulated attic, there is such a thing as too much insulation. Too much padding, or the wrong type, can cause moisture to accumulate in your attic space, especially if it doesn't have vents, resulting in mold growth on your walls and insulation, and increasing the risk of damage to anything stored up there.

It is always best to hire a professional to install your insulation to ensure a good balance between warmth and adequate attic ventilation.

Knowing how and where to insulate your home to keep it warm all winter won't just save you money on energy bills. A warmer home can also keep you happier and healthier through the cold months, too, making it a worthy investment.

While it's highly likely you've heard of double glazing – window made with two panes of glass separated by an air gap for insulation – you may be less familiar with triple pane windows.

These instead feature three panes of glass with two air gaps, boosting the insulating properties, and helping to keep a home warm and cozy without contributing to energy bills.

But, as this option is more expensive at the outset than its more popular double glazed counterpart, are triple pane windows worth the investment? Here, HVAC experts share their thoughts on this small upgrade that can boost home value.

Are triple pane windows worth the investment?

In short, yes. Triple pane windows are a solid spend. Chad Kleis, vice president of business development for Window World says, 'Windows with triple pane glass are worth the investment. Even though they may typically be associated with use in colder climates due to the increased energy efficiency triple pane glass provides, there are additional benefits that make them suitable in any market.'

For example, key benefits include increased energy efficiency, helping you to save money at home by cutting energy bills for both heating and cooling. Kleis points out that triple pane windows also reduce the potential for condensation inside windows during winter, keeping your house warm without turning up the heat, and are one of the best ways to add value to your home.

'Fortunately, replacement windows offer one of the higher ROI's among all types of remodeling project that will at value to your home at around 65% of cost versus value,' he says.

That means, whatever the cost of the triple pane windows, you can count on it bumping up your property's value by around 65% of that.

Triple pane windows also reduce sound transmission, although it is possible to soundproof windows without replacing them, by sealing gaps and cracks with caulk, such as the Gorilla Waterproof Caulk & Seal 100% Silicone Sealant available at Amazon, and using soundproof window dressings, or soundproof window insulation kits.

All prices correct at time of publication.

What are the drawbacks of triple pane windows?

Perhaps the most obvious drawback with triple pane windows is the cost, but, as Hans Ingram, New York-based project manager at JSM Project Management, assures, 'Savings on energy costs over time will outweigh the initial up-front investment and actually save you money in the long run.'

The most considerable cost consideration is installation, as highlighted by Kyle Scott from EcoTech Windows & Doors. 'Additional glass and materials make triple-pane windows heavier, which may require additional support and could increase installation costs,' he says. 'You can increase the effectiveness of triple-pane windows by getting them professionally installed,' although calling in the pros will obviously be reflected in the cost. 'This guarantees proper sealing, which improves performance and prevents air infiltration, and can enhance the overall energy-efficiency.'

It is also worth considering where you live when pondering the upgrade, or you may risk diminished returns, adds Scott. 'In regions where temperatures do not drop below freezing, the benefits may not be as noticeable compared to other options,' he explains.

If you're not sold on spending, or want to hold off on taking the plunge, Robert Hamerly, principal and CEO at GreenSavers, recommends using window sealing film, such as the Duck Brand Rolled Insulation Film available at Walmart. 'These kits lessen the clarity of windows, but do a decent job to make a difference in leakiness,' and work well for DIY draft-proofing to insulate windows and weatherproof your windows, too.

FAQs

How often should windows be replaced?

While a costly upgrade, windows should be replaced every ten to twenty years, as even the best quality windows won't last forever. In particular, taking the time (and money) to do so is a smart home improvement for winter, keeping your house cozy and energy bills low.

Is it better to replace all windows at once?

Putting aside the issue of cost, if you're unsure whether to repair or replace your windows, it is recommended to replace your windows all at once, even if you're not renovating.

While only one or two windows may show signs of damage and degradation, it's likely that the others will soon follow, and it's therefore far easier and cost-effective to get them all done in one fell swoop.

'For homeowners thinking about replacing their windows, triple pane glass windows should be considered,' says Kleis. 'Think of it like this: home improvement project should be viewed as an investment, and each comes with a return on investment.'

Did you know that energy efficient windows can slash your energy bills?

As the cold winter weather sets in, keeping your home warm and energy-efficient becomes a top priority. One of the biggest causes of heat loss in homes, particularly older ones, is poorly insulated windows.

Whether you’re dealing with drafty single panes or crafting solutions for quirky window shapes, finding the right window insulation method can make a noticeable difference in comfort and heating bills. Fortunately, there are plenty of practical, affordable, and even stylish options available to help you prepare a house for cold weather.

In this guide, we explore some of the most effective methods to insulate windows for the colder months. With five tips from our experts, suited to different types of windows, you're sure to find a method that fits your style, budget, and home design.

1. Install weatherstripping

'Weatherstripping is one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to block drafts around windows,' recommends Bob Berriz, owner of Berriz Design Build. 'This flexible material can be applied along the edges of sashes or frames to create a tight seal. It’s ideal for older homes where windows may not close tightly anymore, and it’s easy to install and remove without causing damage.'

According to Bob, Frost King’s Self-Adhesive Weatherstrip Tape available at Walmart is a reliable choice. 'It comes in different widths and materials, such as foam and rubber, to suit your window type. For homes with wooden window frames, consider a felt weatherstripping, which is gentler on the finish.'

To apply, clean the window surface thoroughly, measure the perimeter, cut the weatherstripping to size, and press it firmly into place. With its easy installation, you’ll notice a significant reduction heat loss immediately, and feel the benefits of DIY draft proofing. This works particularly well when paired with putting your windows in winter mode, to guarantee maximum heat retention.

2. Use a window Insulation film

Window insulation film is a popular solution to insulating windows because it’s almost invisible once applied. The film shrinks when heat is applied to it, and is stretched across the inside of your windowpane and secured using double-sided tape. This forms an airtight layer that reduces heat transfer and eliminates drafts.

'The 3M Indoor Window Insulation Kit is a best-seller for a reason,' continues Bob. 'It includes everything you need for installation and the product is known for its clarity and durability.'

'To install, attach the film to the frame, leaving some extra. Next, use a hairdryer to shrink the film until it’s taut and smooth. This method is especially effective for single-pane or older windows.'

Therefore, while triple pane windows are worth it, this is an affordable, budget-friendly option that's suitable for rental properties, too.

3. Hang thermal curtains or insulated drapes

Adding thermal curtains or insulated drapes is a great curtain hack for a warmer home in winter. They’re made with dense fabrics and often feature a thermal lining designed to trap heat inside the room. These are particularly useful for homes with large windows or patio doors, where other solutions might be less effective.

'INOVADAYs Thermal Insulated Blackout Curtains from Amazon are stylish, affordable, and come in a wide range of colors to match your decor,' continues Bob. 'For extra efficiency, look for curtains with triple-weave technology.'

To maximize their effectiveness, hang the curtains as close to the window as possible and ensure they extend a few inches beyond the frame on all sides. When drawn, they’ll create a snug barrier that keeps warm air inside and cold air out.

4. Install insulating cellular shades

'Cellular shades, also known as honeycomb shades, are an elegant and highly effective way to insulate your windows,' recommends Sabi Kampeas, CEO and founder of Kasa201 LLC. 'Their unique design features pockets of air trapped within the cells, which act as a barrier to heat transfer. Cellular shades are available in various levels of opacity, from sheer to blackout, making them a versatile choice for your windows in any room.'

Sabi recommends the Bali Cellular Shades from Home Depot, which are also rated 4.5 out of 5 by customers, as they offer excellent insulation properties and come in customizable sizes to fit your windows perfectly.

These shades are easy to install and operate, providing an attractive, low-maintenance solution for year-round insulation.

5. Draft snakes

Draft snakes are a charming and inexpensive way to block drafts at the base of your windows, and doors for that matter. These fabric tubes are filled with materials like sand, wheat, foam or rice and can be placed along window sills or between sashes to prevent cold air from seeping in.

'While you can buy ready-made draft snakes, such as the Fowong Twin Draft Guard from Amazon, making your own can be a fun and personalized project,' says Sabi. 'Simply sew a fabric tube and fill it with rice, beans, or even old socks for an eco-friendly solution.'

Place the draft snake snugly against the window to see an immediate difference. This solution is practical for quirky or hard-to-fit windows, as they can be customized to any size.

Similar to winterizing your home, winter-proofing your windows doesn’t have to be an arduous task as there’s a solution for every home and budget.

Insulating your windows not only keeps your home cozy but also helps reduce heating loss. So, why wait? Take the time to insulate your windows now and enjoy a warm, draft-free home all winter. Next, learn how to draft proof your living room or draft proof your bedroom for maximum comfort when relaxing.

Basements are notorious for letting in cold air, leading to higher heating costs. Draft-proofing your basement is a vital step toward creating a comfortable, energy-efficient home.

Our HVAC experts reveal exactly how to draft proof a basement – and the common mistakes to avoid. By sealing gaps and improving insulation, you can transform your basement into a cozy, functional space.

Knowing how to run and clean your HVAC system, as well as how to draft proof your basement, is key to managing your home climate efficiently.

Why you should always draft proof a basement

Drafts in a basement can make the space chilly and increase energy bills by forcing your heating system to work harder. Draft-proofing not only saves money but also keeps a basement warm, preventing cold air from seeping into other parts of your home. It’s an essential step for enhancing comfort, reducing you home's carbon footprint and is a key way to be more sustainable at home.

Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and founder of Air Conditioner Lab, says, 'Basements are prone to drafts because they often have older windows, gaps around pipes and ducts, and unfinished walls. These drafts can increase heating and cooling costs by up to 25%, making the floors above feel colder.'

Steve Pacholski, brand president of HVAC experts Varsity Zone adds, 'There’s also the issue of moisture that can come along with those drafts, and over time, that can lead to bigger problems like mold or damage to the structure.'

How to draft proof a basement

Effective draft-proofing begins with identifying problem areas, such as cracks in the foundation, gaps around windows, or air leaks around pipes and other utilities.

Pacholski says, 'If you’re tackling this, start by checking your windows and doors. If you feel a draft, you’ll want to seal it up. If you’re unsure where the drafts are coming from, try the candle test. Light a candle and move it slowly around windows, doors, and other suspected areas. If the flame flickers, you’ve found a spot that needs sealing.

'Weatherstripping around windows is a good first step, and using caulk to fill in any cracks can help a lot. For older windows, it might be worth looking into replacements with modern, energy-efficient options, especially if the drafts are severe.

'When it comes to doors, a door sweep at the bottom and some weatherstripping around the frame can block out most of the cold air. Any cracks you find on the walls or floor should be sealed. Smaller gaps can be handled with silicone caulk or expanding foam. Larger ones may need something stronger like a concrete filler.'

This multi-use GE Silicone All Purpose Caulk from Lowe's is great for sealing around basement windows and doors, while this M-D White Vinyl/Foam Door Weatherstrip, also from Lowe's, is flexible and easy to install – you can even cut it with scissors.

Pacholski continues, 'Finally, don’t forget about the ducts and vents – these are often overlooked but can let in cold air if they aren’t sealed properly. Using foil tape or a good sealant can help here.'

It's important to note the vents themselves should not be sealed up as they may leave your basement at increased risk of mold. Learn how often should air ducts be cleaned.

Mitchell adds, 'Spray foam insulation also works well for gaps around pipes and ducts because it expands to fill irregular spaces. Another common source of drafts is the rim joist – the area where the walls meet the floor joists. Seal it with rigid foam insulation and caulk.

'Foam board insulation on walls and insulated subfloor panels can make a big difference for unfinished basements. Adding a dehumidifier is also helpful to reduce moisture and maintain balanced indoor conditions.'

We've shared some of our top dehumidifiers below. First, there are things you need to know before buying a dehumidifier.

Prices correct at time of publication.

What to avoid when draft proofing a basement

From blocking ventilation openings to using low-grade sealants, there are certain errors that our HVAC experts frequently encounter in house basements.

Francisco Fuenmayor, a home improvement expert at LocalProBook, says, 'Avoid using cheap, temporary solutions like plastic wrap over windows. Not only can it look unattractive, but it doesn't provide long-term benefits. Also, don’t overdo the insulation. Too much insulation can create a sealed environment that causes other issues like condensation.'

For more tips, delve into our smart and easy basement insulation ideas.

Pacholski says, 'It’s important not to block vents or exhausts, as basements need proper airflow to avoid moisture buildup. Also, it’s worth investing in decent materials for sealing – cheaper weatherstripping or caulk might seem like a quick fix, but they don’t last and will likely need replacing in the long run.'

Check out our expert guide to whether you should close vents in unused rooms. and ways to avoid mold growing on your air vents. If you do find mold on your air vents, clean them immediately. You can use a 50/50 vinegar solution spray or soak (leave for an hour).

Pacholski adds, 'Finally, remember that sealing won’t do much good if your basement isn’t properly insulated. Insulation plays a big role in keeping the space warm.'

Top products for draft proofing a basement

High-quality products like foam sealants, weatherproofing strips, and caulking compounds are essential for sealing gaps.

Mitchell recommends this Duck MAX Strength Heavy Duty Insulating Film Window Kit from Amazon. He says, 'This heavy-duty insulating film is perfect for sealing basement windows. It blocks drafts and heat loss effectively, helping reduce energy bills by up to 20%. It’s also easy to install and remove without damaging your windows.'

Pacholski loves Frost King Clear Plastic Weatherseal Tape, available from Amazon, which is completely waterproof and can withstand extremes of heat and cold. It has a special adhesive system effective even at -10 degrees Fahrenheit. He says, 'It's affordable, easy to use, and does a great job of sealing gaps around windows and doors.'

Fuenmayor recommends this AGHITG Window Insulation for Winter from Amazon. He says, 'Specifically designed for basement windows, these insulated window coverings are ideal for reducing drafts and keeping the temperature regulated. The custom fit helps eliminate heat loss while also reducing noise.'

For larger insulation projects, rigid foam boards or spray foam insulation can be highly effective. You can find our pro recommendations below.

FAQs

How can I tell if my basement has drafts?

Check for drafts by feeling for cold air near windows, doors, and foundation cracks.

Mitchell says, 'Look for signs like cold spots, high humidity, or visible gaps around windows and pipes. You can use an infrared thermometer [available at Amazon] to detect temperature differences or a smoke stick to identify air movement.'

A simple candle test – holding a lit candle near suspected gaps – can also reveal air movement.

Do I need special insulation for basements?

Yes, use insulation designed for below-grade applications, like rigid foam boards, to prevent moisture damage. Avoid fiberglass in areas prone to dampness, as it can trap water and encourage mold growth.

Delve into the pros and cons of insulating a basement ceiling in our dedicated guide.

Can I draft proof my basement myself?

Yes, most draft-proofing tasks are an essential DIY skill and with affordable tools, like caulking guns and weatherstripping, it's straightforward to do yourself.

Mitchell says, 'Sealing windows and using spray foam for gaps are DIY-friendly tasks. However, more complex fixes like insulating the rim joist or sub-floor may require professional help.'

How often should I check my basement for drafts?

It’s a good idea to inspect your basement for drafts annually, especially before winter. Regular maintenance ensures gaps don’t worsen over time and keeps your home energy-efficient.

Check out our top tips for how to ventilate a basement.

Will draft proofing reduce moisture issues?

Draft proofing can help by sealing gaps that let in humid air, but it’s not a complete solution. Address underlying moisture problems, such as poor drainage or fix basement leaks, before sealing the basement.

Mitchell adds, 'Sealing drafts does help block humid air from entering the space, reducing condensation and the risk of mold. Pair this with a dehumidifier for better results.'

So there you have it, how to draft proof a basement like the pros. Draft proofing a basement improves energy efficiency, enhances comfort, and prevents drafts from affecting the rest of your home. With proper tools and techniques, you can create a warm, draft-free space without increasing the risk of mold. These are just some of the reasons you should also draft proof your garage.

Next, learn about the things people with nice-smelling basements always do.

Glass wool insulation is a popular choice for energy efficiency and comfort in homes, but how durable is it? Understanding its lifespan, benefits, and best applications can help homeowners maximize its value.

From sharing how to make it last up to half a century, to the best climate compatibility, our HVAC experts reveal everything you need to know about this popular form of insulation.

By knowing the signs its time to replace your insulation, what glass wool insulation is used for, and how long it lasts – you'll have an efficiently heated home in no time.

How long does glass wool insulation last?

Glass wool insulation typically lasts 25 to 50 years if installed and maintained properly.

Its durability depends on factors such as installation quality, exposure to moisture, and general wear and tear. Regular inspections can ensure its performance over the decades.

Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and owner of Air Conditioner Lab, says, 'Though highly durable, factors that can affect the lifespan of glass wool insulation include installation quality, moisture expose and maintenance.

'Proper installation ensures no gaps or compression, maintaining performance for decades. A 5% compression can reduce effectiveness by 10% or more. If exposed to water, its lifespan can drop to less than 10 years. Regular inspections for moisture, damage, or pest issues can extend its effectiveness.'

What is glass wool insulation?

Glass wool is made from recycled glass melted and spun into fibers, creating a fluffy, wool-like material. It is lightweight, non-combustible, and excellent for thermal and acoustic insulation.

Wayne Scherger, brand president of iFOAM says, 'Glass wool insulation – often called fiberglass – is a material made by spinning molten glass into fine fibers, which are then bound together to create a wool-like texture. It’s one of the most common choices for insulating homes because it works so well at trapping heat and blocking sound. By creating tiny air pockets, it helps keep the heat in during winter and the heat out during summer.'

Scherger recommends trying BATT insulation (pre-cut rectangular insulation often made from mineral or glass wool), adding, 'iFOAM Fiberglass BATT insulation is an affordable option that provides thermal insulation. It’s a practical choice for those working within a budget.'

Glass wool insulation's combination of affordability and effectiveness make it a popular insulation type in attics and other areas of the home you should insulate. It's not however recommended for areas that are prone to moisture.

What is glass wool insulation used for?

Glass wool insulation is widely used for improving thermal and acoustic comfort in residential and commercial buildings.

It reduces heat transfer in walls, attics, and floors, making it a key component in energy-efficient designs. Additionally, it’s often used in industrial settings for insulating pipes and ducts due to its fire-resistant properties.

Mitchell says, 'Glass wool is a go-to material for thermal insulation, soundproofing and fire safety. Its thermal conductivity reduces heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer, which can lower energy bills by up to 30% annually in poorly insulated homes. Its dense structure helps reduce noise transmission by 5-8 decibels, making it ideal for walls, floors, and ceilings. It's also non-combustible and often rated for Class A fire resistance.'

Mitchell recommends Owens Corning R-19 Fiberglass Insulation Batts, available from Insulation4US, adding, 'These are ideal for attics and walls, covering up to 40 square feet per roll. These batts are pre-cut for easy DIY installation and provide excellent fire resistance.'

Which areas of the home is glass wool insulation good for?

Glass wool is versatile and works well in walls, ceilings, attics, and floors – so for most rooms in your home. It can fit into tight spaces, making it suitable for both new construction and retrofitting.

Glass wool's soundproofing properties also make it ideal for bedrooms, home theaters, music studios and home offices.

Jon Christensen, CEO of home improvement hub Bidmii, says, 'During the pandemic, I built an office in my basement. I needed a quiet escape from the kids running around, so I used thick glass wool on the interior walls. It dramatically cut down on the amount of noise penetration.'

Where glass wool doesn't perform so well is where moisture is likely to occur.

Scherger says, 'Glass wool is not the best option for areas that are exposed to a lot of moisture, like damp basements or crawl spaces that don’t have proper ventilation. When glass wool gets wet, it loses its insulating ability because water fills the air pockets that make it effective. For those spaces, you’d need to pair it with a good moisture barrier or consider other materials.'

For areas with high moisture, our experts agree that closed-cell spray foam is better suited, as it’s water-resistant and maintains its insulating properties. Check out our guide to the six areas of your home you should never insulate.

Which climates suit glass wool insulation?

Glass wool performs well in both hot and cold climates. It reduces heat transfer in the summer and retains warmth during winter, ensuring year-round energy efficiency.

However, it is less effective in extremely humid areas unless moisture barriers are installed.

Scherger says, 'In very humid environments, you’ll want to make sure it’s well-protected to prevent it from becoming waterlogged, which can reduce its effectiveness and lead to other issues like mold.'

Mitchell recommends Rockwool Comfortbatt R-15 Wool Batt Insulation from Lowe's as a good water-resistant alternative for humid climates.

Glass wool insulation top tips

HVAC pro Josh Mitchell reveals four top tips if you're considering glass wool insulation for your home. He says:

• Combine with radiant barriers: Adding a radiant barrier in the attic can reduce heat transfer by up to 15%, especially in hot climates.
• Seal air leaks before installation: Use caulk or spray foam to seal cracks and gaps before adding insulation. This prevents airflow and can reduce its effectiveness by up to 30%.
• Install vapor barriers where needed: Use vapor barriers in humid areas to prevent moisture absorption. A vapor barrier protects the insulation from moisture in humid climates. This is especially important for basements and crawl spaces.
• Upgrade in stages: If budget is a concern, focus on the attic first, as 25-30% of a home’s heat loss typically happens there.

FAQs

How much maintenance does glass wool require?

Glass wool insulation requires minimal maintenance. Periodic inspections are recommended to check for signs of moisture, compression, or pest activity.

Mitchell says, 'Glass wool is mostly maintenance-free, but it’s a good idea to inspect it every 1-2 years for signs of moisture (look for discoloration, sagging, or a musty smell), pest activity (check for nests or droppings), or settling (check that the insulation hasn't shifted or compressed, which can reduce its effectiveness).'

Promptly addressing any issues will ensure it continues performing effectively for its full lifespan.

Is glass wool insulation environmentally friendly?

Yes, glass wool is eco-friendly as it’s made from recycled glass. Additionally, its energy-saving properties reduce greenhouse gas emissions.

Proper disposal and recycling at the end of its life cycle further minimize environmental impact.

What's the difference between glass wool and mineral wool?

Glass wool is made from recycled glass, while mineral wool is produced from molten rock or slag. Glass wool is lighter and more cost-effective, while mineral wool offers superior moisture resistance and fireproofing.

Both are effective insulators but serve slightly different needs.

Can glass wool insulation cause health issues?

When handled properly, glass wool is safe. During installation, it can release fibers that may irritate the skin, eyes, or respiratory system, so protective gear is essential.

Once installed, it poses no health risks as the fibers are contained.

How do I know if my insulation needs replacing?

Signs of aging insulation include reduced indoor comfort, higher energy bills, or visible damage like sagging or mold growth.

Mitchell adds, 'Also look out for temperature fluctuations. If certain areas of your home feel consistently colder or hotter, gaps or compressed insulation might be the cause.'

A professional inspection can confirm whether replacement is necessary. Regular assessments can help you address issues early.

Now you know how long glass insulation lasts and so much more with our pro tips. Glass wool insulation is a durable, versatile, and cost-effective solution for improving your home's energy efficiency and comfort. With proper care and maintenance, it can last up to half a century, making it a wise investment for any homeowner.

Next, check out these smart and easy basement insulation ideas.

As the outdoor temperatures drop and we retreat from our backyards indoors, it's important to give your houseplants a bit of care to help them through cold and dark days. Neglecting to do so can leave your houseplants exposed to too-cold room temperatures that hinder their health long-term.

If there's only one thing you do to care for houseplants in winter, put precautions in place to protect them from cold damage. It's no surprise that many houseplants can't cope with a lack of warmth, especially because so many popular indoor plants are native to tropical climes. Luckily, keeping houseplants warm is easy to achieve and very low-maintenance.

Those who forget that houseplants get cold just like us often find themselves making winter houseplant care mistakes that result in dying plants. That's why you should try any one of the below methods to give your houseplants a bit more warmth to help them through the winter season.

5 ways to keep houseplants warm in winter

The first thing to understand about winter houseplant care is that each type of houseplant is tolerant to different temperatures. For example, there are a range of cold-tolerant houseplants that can get by with minimal efforts to keep them warm. Nevertheless, it's worth taking on board some of these methods to ensure your houseplants survive the coldest season:

1. Move houseplants away from cold windows

The most obvious way to keep houseplants warm in winter is moving them away from cold spots. Windows are often the biggest culprit in making houseplants cold in winter. Try not to keep any houseplants on north-facing windowsills in particular.

'Unless your apartment is quite modern with double-pane windows that are good insulators, moving plants away from the cold source is one step to stabilizing the temperature around your plant and preventing possible cold stress or frost damage,' says Melvin Cubian from PlantIn.

Of course, there is a challenge in moving plants away from windows during darker days: 'This might compromise the plant’s photosynthesis now that it is away from the light source,' says Melvin. 'Ensure to supplement grow lights for houseplants, which can also offer warmth,' he advises.

Use grow lights in winter to support houseplants with boosted light levels. As Melvin notes, they can also give off some heat.

Other places to consider moving your plants include warm bathrooms and conservatories.

2. Wrap your planters to add a layer of insulation

This is a technique used to protect container plants from winter weather, but it can also benefit indoor plants if they are growing in particularly chilly rooms of your home.

'Wrapping the plant pots with an insulator will keep it warm and cozy during cold spells,' says Melvin. 'All you need is a bubble wrap, burlap net, or a high-end plant cover that conserves heat within, preventing the roots from freezing and protecting it from temperature fluctuations,' he explains.

Providing extra insulation for plant roots is important to protect plants from frost. While houseplant roots are unlikely to freeze indoors, the insulation will still aid root health during colder days and reduce chances of issues like houseplant root rot.

Something to note, however, is that foliage will still be exposed to cold air using this method. It's therefore best to pair it with another solution in this list to prevent your plants becoming stressed.

3. Use a heat mat for houseplants

Turning to indoor growing systems is an efficient way to keep houseplants warm in winter. A heat mat in particular is a great option, offering a heat source for houseplants.

'Heating mats are typically used in propagation to speed up the rate of root growth, but it can also keep your plants warmer during the winter months,' explains Raffaele Di Lallo, plant expert from Ohio Tropics.

A heat mat (like this one at Amazon) works by heating up to a temperature you set it. Your plants can then sit on top. As Raffaele mentions, this is typically used for propagating cuttings or when sowing seeds indoors to support seedling development.

'It is only practical for small indoor plants as heating mats won't do a good enough job to warm up the volume of soil in large pots,' Raffaele warns.

4. Use an indoor greenhouse

Another indoor growing system that can help keep houseplants warm in winter is an indoor greenhouse. Just like an outdoor greenhouse, these are designed to create a warm environment for plants and they're small enough to place in your home.

'They block the escape of water vapor and heat while preventing the entrance of the cold ones. This barrier will mimic the greenhouse effect that is especially beneficial for tropical indoor plants like orchids, monsteras, or prayer plants,' Melvin says.

While there are plenty mini indoor greenhouses available online (like this one from Walmart), you can also DIY it with glass jars and plastic tubs, for example.

'A bonus: as the vapors are trapped inside the chamber, worry not about the fungal growth on the walls that is often a problem during winter indoors,' Melvin adds.

5. Turn your heating on but don't blast it out

Perhaps the easiest way to keep houseplants warm in winter: put your heating on. It's not just us who thaw out when the heating comes on, houseplants are also appreciative. Nevertheless, there are some things to keep in mind about this method.

'While heating your home helps with the ambient temperature, and that can be good for houseplants that don’t like colder temperatures, it’s important to keep the plants away from the flow of heated air,' warns Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants. 'It is very drying in terms of decreasing humidity,' she explains.

Just like keeping houseplants away from cold windows and drafts, you should also take care not to place them next to heat sources. One solution to get the balance right is to increase humidity for houseplants by placing them closer together and using a humidifier (from Amazon).

If you're also concerned about the cost of having heating on, you might be surprised to learn that running heating constantly with a digital thermostat can save you money.

FAQs

How do you save a houseplant that got too cold?

If your houseplant has started to discolor or droop after being exposed to colder room temperatures, you'll be pleased to learn that you can revive houseplants from cold damage. Some of the steps you'll need to take include moving your plant somewhere warmer, pruning away damaged foliage and providing optimal care going forward. Make sure to wrap your plant's pot, place it in an indoor greenhouse or use a heat mat to prevent cold damage happening again.

You might also be tempted to rehome your houseplants somewhere with higher humidity to keep them going through winter. Before doing this, make sure to read up on the best bathroom plants to discover which plants will cope well with the typical conditions of this room. Similarly, some of your plants might benefit as kitchen plants during winter, soaking up the warmth from cooking and family gatherings.

Most homes have hot and cold spots. Rooms, or even just corners, that feel a drastically different temperature to the rest of the space – especially if you live in an older home.

This is more than just an ambient annoyance, however. It can be a sign that your home insulation needs replacing, or that your heating or cooling system is not sufficient for your home.

I’m an energy expert with 20 years experience in the business. Here, I’ll explain how to eliminate hot and cold spots in your home, and what can be causing them, to help make your heating more efficient year-round.

How to eliminate hot and cold spots in your home

Ultimately, it comes down to energy efficiency. Roughly 30% of our energy use is wasted due to building inefficiencies like inadequate insulation ideas, gaps or cracks around windows and doors, or outdated HVAC systems. These issues lead to energy waste through temperature loss, causing hot/cold spots throughout your home as well as more expensive energy bills.

I'm Mike Naughton, owner of Integrity Energy and I know that fortunately, most of these issues can be remedied through regular maintenance, a little bit of DIY, or a home efficiency upgrade.

Whether you are trying to cut energy bills when heating a home in winter or cool down a room more efficiently in summer, eliminating hot and cold spots will make your home more comfortable throughout the year, no matter the weather. Here's how.

1. Insulate your home

Frequent or severe hot and cold spots in a home could be a sign that you need to replace your insulation. Especially common in older homes, inadequate or outdated insulation can make your home much colder than you’d prefer. Proper insulation is key to keeping your home warm all day in the winter and cool in the summer.

It essentially acts as an airlock for your home, retaining your home heating and cooling and reducing energy waste.

Fortunately, you no longer have to remove drywall to add insulation as many contractors can supplement insulation already present with expanding foam insulation.

Attic insulation and attic doors are often overlooked areas, and usually need more insulation. You may also want to increase insulation in the walls that your home shares with the garage. Learn when you to insulate above a garage, and when you're better off leaving it alone.

2. Seal up gaps

The most common contributor to cold spots and your house from heating unevenly are small gaps and cracks around your windows and doors. Fortunately, you can make a big difference with about $25 and a little elbow grease. Sealing window gaps and spaces around doors with weatherstripping or caulk is simple with our guides and draft proofing tips:

• Draft proof an entryway
• Draft proof a bathroom
• Draft proof a sun room
• Draft proof a fireplace
• Draft proof a door
• Seal window gaps

For additional draft protection, consider adding a draft stopper to your window sills and doors. Most draft stoppers only cost around $10-$20 each, making it a quick and easy investment that works.

All prices correct at time of publication.

3. Upgrade your HVAC system

If your house is cooling unevenly, or not heating up despite DIY fixes, then it may be time to invest in a new HVAC system entirely.

If you’re in the market for a new home heating and cooling system, make sure it bears Energy Star certification. Energy Star is the government-backed symbol of energy efficiency, identifying high-performing systems and appliances that reduce your energy bills. If your HVAC system is more than 10 years old or not keeping your family comfortable, it’s likely time to upgrade.

Despite the large upfront cost, upgrading to an Energy Star-certified model can cut your home energy bills by $140 a year while improving the comfort of your home.

4. Clean and service your system

Another issue that could cause cold or hot spots throughout your home is blocked, dirty, or obstructed air vents and ducts.

Check over and clean your HVAC system regularly, including checking inside the ducts and vents and removing any clutter or debris. Additionally, make sure no vents are covered up by your furniture. This is a common cause of cold spots because the warm air can easily get trapped under couches, beds, or entertainment centers. Keeping vents clear of obstructions will make your home much more comfortable.

Now might also be a good time to consider how often you should get your HVAC system serviced. A professional service will ensure your system is working to maximum efficiency, and they may be able to point out the cause of hot and cold spots in your home. They can even alert you to minor faults you can fix now to avoid more urgent repairs in the future.

If you've been wondering whether you should close vents in unused rooms, the short answer is: no. Don't do it as it may damage the rest of your system.

5. Use a smart thermostat

Sometimes hot and cold spots occur because of an outdated thermostat. Older technologies are much less efficient. Upgrading to a smart thermostat is a mid-range investment that can drastically improve the comfort of your home.

Smart thermostats learn your household’s schedule and preferences, helping you optimize your home heating and cooling by using zone heating techniques to add additional heat to the rooms you’re currently using.

Additionally, you can program your heating and cooling to match your daily schedule, creating automated temperature setbacks that save money. Most smart thermostats cost between $150-$500, depending on the complexity of their smart features. This smart upgrade can help homeowners save up to $180 a year in energy expenses.

Head of Solved, Punteha van Terheyden, found switching from an analogue thermostat to a smart digital one reduced her energy bills by hundreds of dollars and kept her entire home comfortable through the winter.

6. Place a thermostat properly

One of the most common thermostat mistakes people make is putting them in the wrong place. Putting a thermostat in a particularly drafty spot, such as by a window or your front door, or conversely putting it in a very warm place like above a heating vent, will cause your heating and cooling systems to come on unnecessarily.

The best place for your thermostat is in a central part of your home on an interior wall of a room that is used frequently, away from obstructions and vents for accurate readings.

7. Use a fan to distribute air

We usually only think of using fans in the summer when we want to cool a room with fans. However, they can also be used to push warm air around a space and eliminate hot and cold spots.

If certain areas of your home have uncomfortable cold spots, your ceiling fans can improve the comfort of your home. While it sounds counter intuitive to use a ceiling fan in the winter, you can simply adjust some settings for surprising results.

All ceiling fans have a switch that changes the rotations of the fan blades. In the winter, flip the switch so your fan blades run clockwise. A clockwise rotation on a low-speed setting will help circulate warm air trapped against your ceiling. In the summer, flip the switch back counterclockwise for more cooling effects.

8. Choose the right window coverings

Your window treatment ideas do more than complete your decorating scheme. If certain rooms of your home are always cold, especially North-facing rooms, the proper window coverings can make a big difference.

Opt for insulating cellular shades, [available at Walmart] which have a honeycomb shape that creates an additional insulating barrier to help reduce heat loss through your windows by 40% or more. This can then reduce your home heating costs by about 10%.

Improve your window insulation even further with floor-length drapes. Thermal blackout curtains [also at Walmart] or heavier-weighted fabrics can also improve heat retention while adding style to your home.

These quick tricks to eliminate hot and cold spots around your home will also help to keep your home warm without turning up the heat while blocking out hot humid air in the height of summer, making them a worthy monetary and time investment for any property, regardless of where you live.

The garage is one of the most useful, functional areas of the home. From parking cars to storing seasonal decor, it's a space that really does it all. But, how do you keep it warm?

To avoid mold, condensation and burst pipes, it's important that garage temperatures don't drop too low in winter. As our HVAC experts warn, there's no point in turning your attention to heating the space before solving any insulation woes.

Here, our pros share the best way to heat a garage (and they're all in agreement) and give their tips on acing your insulation. While you may know how to keep your garage cool in hot weather, it's vital to get it right in winter, too.

The best way to heat a garage

Our HVAC pros all agree when deciding how to heat a garage efficiently and that's to make use of the best types of space heater.

HVAC expert Veggeberg says, 'For homeowners looking to heat their garage for short periods of time a few times per month, we recommend an electric space heater, such as the PELONIS PTH15A4BGB Ceramic Tower 1500W Indoor Space Heater with Oscillation available at Amazon.'

The only time you might want to opt for a more expensive solution is if you have converted your garage, and will therefore be spending a lot of time in it.

Home remodeling expert Barres explains, 'There’s no use putting in that much effort into heating this space, unless you’re going to be finishing it and spending significant time here, say, if you turned it into a studio. But otherwise, a good space heater takes care of all your needs.'

Bearing in mind that garage conversions are actually a DIY home improvement that could devalue your property, as most homeowners will be looking to buy a property with a functional garage, only undertake such projects if you're an accomplished DIY-er who can do it to an acceptable standard, or hire a handyman or professional contractor instead.

When running a space heater, do not place it on rugs, furniture it can topple off, and keep it away from other items to ensure adequate air flow. Do not run without supervision, never overnight and be mindful of moisture levels. If it's too high, the space heater can become an electrical risk in your home.

Don't neglect garage insulation

The best way to heat a garage is by using space heaters but Rick Berres, owner of Honey-Doers points out there's no point in heating your garage at all if it is not insulated correctly.

He says, 'I always say that there’s no use heating your garage if you’re going to allow the warm air to get out and the cold air to get in through the cracks, so the very first thing I want you to do is seal up all those bits around the door – I know you have them! And only then you can think about heating.'

So, to winterize a garage, begin by insulating the garage door, using insulation board, such as the FOAMULAR NGX F-250 2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. SSE R-10 XPS Rigid Foam Board Insulation available at Home Depot.

Then, seal gaps around doors and windows with caulk, such as the 18152 DAP Caulk available at Amazon, and sealant tape. You may also want to use spray insulation, suggests Max Veggeberg, CEO and founder of Tetra. For example, we recommend the Great Stuff 99108824 Smart Dispenser Gaps & Cracks available at Amazon, for precise control and maximum durability.

In extreme circumstances, if the damage is beyond DIY repair, it is worth considering replacing your garage door or windows altogether, which will help to cut energy bills.

Pair these insulation solutions with curtain hacks for a warmer home in winter and thermal-reflective insulation paint, suggests Francisco Fuenmayor, insured handyman at LocalProBook, for affordable, additional layers of insulation.

Learn when to insulate above a garage, and when to avoid in our dedicated guide.

Once your insulation is in place and all drafty spots have been sealed, get your space heater on the go.

All prices correct at time of publication.

FAQs

Where do garages lose the most heat?

Your garage will lose the most heat through the garage door, which is why, when necessary, you may need to get clued up on how much it costs to replace a garage door. Of course, this will be influenced heavily by size and material, but our expert guide dives into the details.

What temperature should a garage be kept at during winter?

Much like setting your thermostat to a consistent temperature in winter inside your home, you should aim to do the same in your garage. But, of course, this doesn't need to be kept at the same comfort level. Instead, aim to keep your garage at between 40°F and 50°F, and use a thermometer, such as the ThermoPro TP49 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer available at Amazon to accurately keep an eye on the temperature.

Struggling to organize a garage with too much stuff? Start by decluttering your space before investing in effective storage solutions to set yourself up for success.

If you live in a cold climate, then you have likely experienced opening your curtains in the morning to find your windows fogged up and dripping wet at least once. But is condensation inside windows bad?

While it is a normal sign your windows are working as intended to keep warm air inside, it is not the best for your home, and could lead to dampness and mold. That's why our top insulation pros recommending wiping it away or using a window vacuum.

If your condensation is showing up in between window panes, that's another potentially more costly story. Here, our pros delve into condensation inside windows and share advice to easily stop condensation in your windows for good.

Is condensation inside windows bad?

John Parks, Co-Owner and COO of Advanced Insulation System says condensation on the inside of a window can be a concern, especially if it happens often. He explains, 'It’s usually a sign that there’s too much humidity in your home. Left unchecked, it can increase the risk of mold, mildew, or even damage to the window frames or walls nearby. This is especially common in colder months when warm indoor air meets the cold surface of a window.’

In very cold climates or poorly insulated homes, unchecked condensation can also cause frost on the inside of windows, and this may leave it at risk of cracking.

Luckily, getting rid of condensation inside windows is easy. More often than not all you need to do is wipe it away and dry the window as soon as you get up for the day. You could also consider using window vacuums to curb condensation, or a cheap salt trick to get rid of condensation.

All prices correct at time of publication.

However, if you want to stop condensation on windows overnight and prevent mold and damaged window seals completely, you’ll want to consider the best dehumidifier, John says.

He explains, ‘A good dehumidifier, like the hOmeLabs 50-Pint Dehumidifier [available on Amazon] can bring down indoor humidity levels and help control condensation without having to leave windows open for long periods in freezing winter months, helping to make heating more efficient.

You can also improve ventilation in high-humidity areas like bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. Installing exhaust fans or using trickle vents on windows can help move moist air outside.’

Remember that dehumidifiers will not work with windows open, so shut them off if you are sleeping with windows open in winter.

Condensation in between window panes

Condensation inside double-glazed windows (i.e. sitting between the panes so you cannot wipe it away) is a far more serious problem.

Elizabeth Reilly, of Greensavers, explains, ‘This usually indicates a failure in the seal of the insulated glass unit. This is actually a more serious issue and is generally caused by extreme fluctuations in temperature, or simply just wear and tear over time.

‘Now, because a broken seal means the window is no longer working to insulate the home, this means any heating or cooling system in the home will be working less efficiently and you’ll be wasting energy and money.’

Our experts do warn there is no way of fixing condensation inside windows with a dehumidifier. Your options are to repair or replace a window, says Matthew Coates, architect at Coates Design Seattle Architects.

He explains, ‘The only real fix is to replace the insulated glass unit or replace the entire window. In older homes or for folks with a budget in mind, it is more common to simply have a glass company replace the glazing, however, it should be mentioned that old-school window frames lack the insulating technology and non-thermal bridging materials of today's windows, so it’s usually best to replace the entire window if that's within your budget.’

While this can incur a big upfront cost if being completed home-wide, it is a small home upgrade that can boost your home value by 20%, not to mention it will help you to cut energy bills so you are saving money and reaping the benefits over time.

While it might seem little more than a winter nuisance, condensation on the inside of windows can have a costly impact on both your wallet and your health. Reducing your home’s humidity and looking out for signs of mold in your home should be on your daily to-do list throughout the cold season.

For condensation between window panes, a consultation with a local trusted window fitting company is your best option as replacing windows is a household project you shouldn’t DIY.

As the temperatures drop, you might worry about your pipes freezing. Frozen pipes can cause significant damage, from home floods to costly repairs, so it’s crucial to take precautions as soon as cold weather sets in.

One of the simplest ways to protect your home is by maintaining the perfect indoor temperature to keep your pipes safe. Our plumbers all agree the ‘Goldilocks’ temperature range to keep both your pipes safe in a freeze is between 55-60° Fahrenheit.

Here, they share how to keep your pipes at this perfect temperature without breaking the bank to avoid the risk of frozen pipes.

The perfect temperature to avoid frozen pipes

Generally speaking, the time to worry about frozen pipes is when the temperature drops below 32°F outside, begins Robert Mazzacone, master plumber and owner of Mazzacone Plumbing & Heating.

Keeping your pipes at an ambient temperature of around 55-60°F will, therefore, keep them safe from blocks and bursts without sending your bills soaring. Robert also adds, ‘If your home is well-insulated and pipes are protected, you might be able to go slightly lower so long as outdoor temperatures do not drop below 20°F, and your pipes are not in exposed areas, such as crawl spaces, basements, or unheated areas.’

Mike Henderson, VP of operations at Mr. Rooter Plumbing, a Neighborly company, says, ‘Keeping your house thermostat at least 60° Fahrenheit when outside temperatures drop below freezing will prevent pipes from freezing; this range keeps water in the pipes above freezing, even in unheated areas, while minimizing energy use.’

Eduard Mirzoian, CEO at Restorerz agrees, but is a little more flexible, ‘I recommend keeping your home's temperature above 55°F during winter,’ he says. ‘This strategy helps prevent pipes from freezing without causing your energy costs to spike. Maintaining this temperature usually will make sure that water continues to flow freely and doesn't turn to ice in the pipes.

How to keep pipes warm and free-flowing

Luckily, our experts assure us that it is easy to maintain this temperature efficiently while cutting energy bills. A range of measures, such as draft-proofing your home, using smart thermostats, and insulating pipes and windows will all contribute to an overall warmer – and safer – ambient temperature.

• Keep faucets dripping: Mike Henderson, VP says, ‘You’ve likely heard the idiom, A rolling stone gathers no moss. A similar thing is true when it comes to running water and freezing. If you drip faucets around your home when the temperatures drop below freezing, the water won’t stay still in your pipes, preventing the likelihood of a freeze.’
• Insulate pipes: Eduard Mirzoian, plumber adds, ‘For an added layer of safety, I would add foam pipe insulation, available at Amazon, to any exposed pipes in basements, attics, and crawlspaces. When thinking about energy efficiency, I think about using heat tape or pipe warmers, such as the top-rated Vevor self-regulating heating cable from Walmart, especially for pipes situated in exterior walls or in especially cold parts of the house. These tools are great for keeping things warm without using too much power,' which is why they're the perfect October fix approved by heating experts to stop pipes freezing.
• Keep air flowing around pipes: Improving ventilation might be the last thing you consider when trying to keep hot air in the important areas of your home, however, Mike adds, ‘When temperatures plummet, it’s time to open up those cabinets and cupboards. Whenever possible, increase the airflow to your pipes. This allows warm air to regulate pipe temperatures and keep them from freezing. This strategy also works wonders for thawing frozen pipes.’
• Run your heating: Of course, the most obvious way to winterize your indoor plumbing is to keep your home warm, reminds Mike Henderson. ‘Hopefully, you’re already running the heater when it drops below freezing, but if you aren’t, you should. Increasing the temperature in your home can reduce the chance of a pipe freeze.’ Using a programmable thermostat will make maintaining the best temperature for a thermostat in winter easier and keep your home warm all day.

Your indoor pipes might be your priority in winter, but you cannot forget about stopping outdoor spigots from freezing, reminds Eduard Mirzoian, plumber. These freeze up very quickly and are connected to the same main water source. He says, ‘Covering outside faucets with pipe insulation sleeves is perfect and will help protect your whole system.’

You can also let an outdoor faucet drip to prevent freezing.

Insulation is crucial for energy efficiency, but there are areas in your home where insulation can do more harm than good. Misplaced insulation can create fire hazards, trap moisture, or block essential airflow.

From chimneys to ceiling lights, experts reveal six areas you should avoid insulating and why.

By knowing the most important areas to insulate and those not to, you'll soon be cozying up in a welcoming home fit for all seasons.

1. Chimneys and furnaces

Furnaces and chimney stacks require proper clearance to prevent overheating or fire. Insulating too close to these heat-producing areas can lead to dangerous situations.

Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and founder of Air Conditioner Lab, says, 'Furnace flues and chimneys get extremely hot, and adding insulation too close can create trapped heat and even cause fires. Insulation materials like fiberglass and spray foam are not designed for direct contact with high temperatures.

'To insulate safely, use a fire-resistant sealant instead of traditional insulation for areas around flues and chimneys. A fire-rated sealant can fill small gaps around the flue while ensuring safety. Building codes usually require a 1-2 inch gap between insulation and anything that gets hot, called 'clearance to combustibles' – so be sure to maintain the required buffer space to prevent heat buildup.'

2. Electrical wires

Insulating around electrical wires can pose a fire risk if done improperly. Overheating can occur if insulation restricts airflow around wires, especially older ones not rated for modern loads.

Francisco Fuenmayor, a home improvement expert at LocalProBook, says, 'Insulating too closely around electrical wiring can create a fire hazard. If insulation compresses around wires, especially those that may overheat, it can prevent them from cooling properly. This risk is higher with older wiring, like knob-and-tube systems.

'Instead, ensure a three-inch clearance around wiring, or opt for wire-safe, flame-resistant insulation sleeves.'

Always consult an electrician or use insulation specifically designed to accommodate electrical wiring. In this guide, electrical experts explain how to fix loose outlets safely.

3. Ceiling lights

Recessed lighting fixtures generate significant heat, making it unsafe to place insulation directly around them unless they are rated 'IC' – Insulation Contact).

Mitchell explains, 'Most recessed lights require space around them to dissipate heat. If insulation is placed over non-IC rated recessed lights, the heat gets trapped, which increases the risk of overheating or even fire.

'Non-IC rated lights aren't designed for direct insulation contact and can't handle the heat that gets trapped when covered, so always leave 3-5 inches of clearance around non-IC-rated recessed lights. The additional warmth can reduce the lifespan of the lighting and create a safety hazard.

'If you're concerned about heat loss in these areas, consider adding a recessed light cover specifically designed to handle insulation contact. These covers protect the light while allowing insulation to be placed nearby.'

Mitchell recommends this Tenmat Recessed Light Cover from Amazon, adding, 'This fire-rated cover allows insulation to be safely placed around recessed lights without overheating.'

Check out what our writer found when she asked experts: Should bedrooms have ceiling lights?

4. Floor crawl spaces

While insulating crawl space floors may seem beneficial, it can lead to mold and structural issues.

Mitchell explains, 'While insulating floor joists in a crawl space may seem effective for keeping floors warmer, in un-ventilated crawl spaces, insulation can trap moisture. Over time, this can lead to mold, mildew, and even wood rot. Damp insulation loses its effectiveness and becomes a breeding ground for mold, affecting air quality throughout the home. The trapped moisture can also weaken the wood structure, which might require costly repairs.

'Instead of adding insulation under the joists, install a vapor barrier on the ground of the crawl space. A thick plastic sheeting can prevent moisture from the earth from seeping upward, helping control dampness and humidity in the space without risking moldy insulation.'

Mitchell recommends Farm Plastic Supply Black Plastic Sheeting, available from Amazon, adding, 'This is an affordable vapor barrier that's durable enough for crawl spaces. Covering the ground with this will prevent moisture from rising and keep the crawl space drier, making insulation less necessary.'

5. Roof edges

Roof edges, particularly where soffits are located, must remain ventilated to ensure proper airflow in the attic. Insulating these areas can block ventilation, leading to trapped moisture, mold growth, and roof damage.

Fuenmayor says, 'If insulation is too close to the roof’s edge, it can prevent proper ice damming, which leads to water pooling and potential leaks. Insulation in these areas can trap warmth in the wrong spots, leading to ice dams on colder days.

'Instead, opt for specialized insulation in attic areas that won’t block airflow near roof edges. Personally, I'd recommend this Easy Heat ADKS-500 Roof/Gutter Kit from Amazon, which help reduce the risk of damming without needing insulation near edges.'

He adds, 'Keeping eaves well-ventilated will help prevent ice dams while maintaining attic warmth.'

Learn more about attic insulation types.

6. Basement foundation walls

Insulating basement foundation walls from the inside when considering basement insulation ideas can create condensation and encourage mold growth, especially in humid climates.

Wayne Scherger, brand president of iFOAM, says, 'Ventilating basement foundation walls might seem like a logical way to manage moisture, but it often creates more problems than it solves. For one, it can lead to significant heat loss – basements are responsible for up to 25% of a home’s total heat loss, and introducing outdoor air makes temperature regulation even harder.

'This is particularly noticeable in winter when the earth – already a poor insulator – can’t effectively stabilize the temperature around the foundation walls. Colder walls mean higher risks of condensation, dampness, and issues like mold, efflorescence, or even spalling [fragments of material breaking].

'Structural concerns are another factor. Ventilation can expose the walls to fluctuating temperatures and humidity, which weakens their integrity over time. In colder climates, cycles of freezing and thawing can cause cracking or frost heave, further compromising the foundation. Additionally, ventilating these spaces may increase air leakage through cracks and other penetrations, which could allow radon to seep in, affecting indoor air quality.'

Instead of ventilating, Scherger advises using closed-cell iFoam Spray Foam to seal, waterproof and insulate the foundation walls. He says, 'It offers excellent thermal and vapor barrier properties, reducing air leakage and minimizing condensation and moisture risks. Ultimately, it creates a strong, energy-efficient envelope around the home.'

Our guide to smart and easy basement insulation ideas contains more tips to boost your home's energy efficiency.

FAQs

Can insulation around water pipes prevent freezing?

Yes, insulation can protect water pipes from freezing in unheated spaces like basements or crawl spaces. Use pipe-specific insulation or foam sleeves and ensure pipes are properly sealed against drafts.

How can I ensure my attic is properly ventilated?

Maintain clear pathways between soffit vents and ridge vents. Use baffles to prevent insulation from blocking airflow, and check for proper air circulation to avoid moisture buildup and heat retention.

Is spray foam insulation safe for all areas?

Spray foam is versatile but not suitable for areas requiring ventilation, like attic eaves or near heat sources. Its airtight properties can trap moisture if applied incorrectly, so use it where airtight seals are necessary and avoid areas prone to condensation.

So there you have it – six areas of your home you should never insulate to help keep your home safe from unnecessary risk of mold, damp, fire or heat loss.

While insulation is essential, knowing where not to insulate is equally important. By avoiding these seven areas, you can prevent structural damage, maintain airflow, and ensure a safer, more energy-efficient home.

Next, check out the five signs it's time to replace your insulation.

As winter weather approaches, most homes will suffer from drafts, faulty furnaces, or air leaks. These can make your home feel far more cold than cozy and really affect the comfort of your space.

While there are many ways to keep your home warm, from radiators and reflectors to window treatments and curtains, the most effective method is nearly always investing in insulation. What you may not have considered, or even heard of, though, is insulation paint.

Here, I spoke to HVAC and paint pros to find out more about this affordable alternative to keeping your house warm without turning up the heat and to determine whether it's a worthwhile expense or simply an ineffective invention.

What is insulation paint?

Doing what it says on the tin – insulation paint is used on walls to create a thermal barrier and reduce heat loss in the home.

George Crew, principal painting contractor at Chicago Paint Crew, with over 30 years in the industry, explains, 'Insulation paint, often referred to as thermal paint, is a specialized coating aimed at enhancing a building's thermal properties.

'It features tiny ceramic or glass beads that form a thin, heat-resistant barrier, which helps to minimize heat transfer through surfaces. Marketed as a user-friendly solution for boosting energy efficiency, it can be applied to both interior and exterior walls to help maintain comfortable indoor temperatures and reduce heating or cooling expenses,' helping you to save money at home.

It is also a cheaper alternative to other insulation types, such as glass wool insulation, and can easily be done yourself, so long as you know how to paint a wall.

Does insulation paint work?

But, most importantly, does insulation paint actually work?

Andy Shu, HVAC specialist at ZapFixers, advises, 'Insulation paint can help improve energy efficiency, but its performance depends on the application, environment, and the paint's formulation. It is most effective when used in conjunction with proper insulation, as it's not a replacement for traditional insulating materials, like foam or fiberglass.

'Its ability to reduce heat transfer can be limited compared to these alternatives.'

That being said, while it won't necessarily hugely cut energy bills, Shu notes that the reflective properties of the paint can bounce radiant heat away, particularly in hot climates. Therefore, it's useful for adding a small, additional thermal barrier on surfaces already insulated, as an additional type of attic insulation, for example.

Where to use insulation paint

When it comes to where to use insulation paint ideas, keep in mind that it will be most efficient in particularly sunny spots. For example, in attics, the paint can help to reduce heat transfer through roofs in hot climates, while in sunroom ideas, it will reflect excess heat, particularly on south or west-facing walls.

Paint expert Crew also points out that insulation paint is often designed to resist moisture, which can help prevent dampness and mold in basement ideas or crawl spaces.

How to use insulation paint

If you do opt to use insulation paint, and determine that you have a suitable space to do so, paint expert Crew shares his top tips:

• Apply several coats (three to four is ideal) to achieve optimal performance
• Target areas that lack insulation, such as roofs, exterior walls, or spaces that lack insulation for the best outcome
• Pair with other insulation techniques to enhance energy savings

Alternatives to insulation paint

If you're considering insulation options for significant impact, Colin Matei, owner of Clean Air Heating & Cooling, recommends exploring traditional methods, like installing fiberglass or cellulose in walls and attics.

'These provide a more comprehensive thermal barrier, especially in climates with extreme temperatures,' he says. 'In our services, I've seen better results with these systems in diverse spaces like basements and living rooms,' particularly if you know which areas of your home you should always insulate, for maximum impact.

FAQs

Can you paint over thermal paint?

Thermal paint can be painted over or covered with any wallpaper ideas, as long as the insulation paint has been allowed to fully dry beforehand. This will improve its appearance, as well as increase the durability and energy efficiency of the insulating properties.

How long does thermal paint take to dry?

Much like normal paint, thermal paint should be touch dry within about two hours, depending on the temperature and humidity levels of where it is used, but always allow four hours between coats for an even finish. Our expert-led guide on how to make paint dry faster delves into speeding up the process without compromising on quality.

'In summary, while insulation paint can be beneficial, it shouldn't be relied upon as the sole method for achieving significant energy efficiency gains,' says paint expert Crew. 'For those living in extreme climates, traditional insulation methods are still the best option.

'However, when applied thoughtfully, insulation paint can work alongside existing solutions to help create a more comfortable and energy-efficient home. Always adhere to the manufacturer's instructions and consider combining products to meet your specific requirements.'

Next, learn about the signs it's time to replace your insulation, to ensure consistent efficiency.

Basement insulation is essential for energy efficiency, comfort, and cost savings.

Here, industry experts reveal nine insulation ideas to help maintain a balanced temperature in your basement.

By knowing these top tips for insulating your basement and keeping a basement warm, you'll be ready to enjoy comfortable temperatures all year round.

1. Spray foam

Spray foam insulation expands to fill gaps, offering a tight, moisture-resistant seal.

Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician at Air Conditioner Lab, says, 'Closed-cell spray foam is a great option for your basement ceiling because it expands to fill any gaps and blocks airflow between the basement and floors above, keeping your whole house more comfortable.

'Begin by clearing any items near the ceiling joists to give yourself room to work. Wear protective gear – such as a mask, gloves, and goggles since spray foam can get messy.

'After applying an even layer of foam between ceiling joists, let it harden and expand, then trim any excess. Add drywall or ceiling panels if you’d like a more polished look.'

Shu Saito, HVAC specialist at All Filters, adds, 'Spray foam works very well in multiple other areas of a basement too including in walls and between floor joists.'

2. Rigid foam board

Rigid foam board provides a durable, moisture-resistant barrier, is easy to install on walls and will help you make the most of your basement. It works well in this area of the home because it resists both heat transfer and moisture, essential for underground spaces. You can also apply foam boards under floors as it's one of the places in the home you can add insulation to keep it warm all winter.

Wayne Scherger, brand president of iFOAM, says, 'Rigid foam boards are versatile and efficient for basement insulation, and when you tape them properly, they double as both insulation and an air barrier, which helps keep warmth in and moisture out. This method is also practical for older basements where an immediate insulation solution is needed.

'Start by cutting and fitting rigid foam boards to cover the walls, securing them with a foam-compatible adhesive. Then, use tape made specifically for foam board insulation to cover each seam and edge, blocking any path for moisture to reach the concrete.'

Mitchell says, 'As well as locking in heat and keeping moisture out, rigid foam insulation is great for basements because it also prevents mold growth better than materials like fiberglass.'

Read more about preventing mold in insulation.

Saito adds, 'Rigid foam board isn't just for walls – it's great for basement floors too. Start by measuring and cutting the foam boards to fit snugly across your floor. Then, place a vapor barrier to prevent moisture issues, install the foam over that, and your choice of flooring over that.'

3. Fiberglass batts

Fiberglass batts are a popular, cost-effective choice for basement insulation. They’re relatively easy to install in walls or ceilings and offer excellent thermal resistance.

Saito says, 'Fiberglass batts are pretty easy to install, relatively inexpensive, and really good at preventing heat loss in winter and heat gain in summer. Measure the wall cavities and then cut the batts to fit each one perfectly. Staple them to the studs, making sure they are tight and have no gaps in them.'

Be sure to cover them with a vapor barrier to protect against moisture and improve their longevity. For more, check out our guide on five ways to insulate a wall.

4. Subfloor panels

Subfloor insulation panels help protect against cold floors, a common issue in basements. These interlocking panels create a barrier between the floor and the cold foundation, making the space warmer and more comfortable. Subfloor panels also provide a stable base for carpets or other floorings.

Jon Christensen, CEO of home improvement hub Bidmii, says, 'I recently helped my mom completely renovate her basement, and insulating the basement floor was a big difference-maker. These panels provide a thermal break between the cold concrete slab and your finished flooring, making the floor feel warmer underfoot and reducing overall heat loss.

'Installation is straightforward: you lay the panels directly on the concrete floor, clicking them together, and then install your choice of flooring on top. The difference in comfort was immediately noticeable!'

For more, check out our guide to the best basement floors and considering adding a rug, which is one way to insulate your home in winter and make it more comfortable to walk on.

5. Foam tubes

Foam tubes wrap around pipes, insulating them from extreme temperature fluctuations. This prevents pipes from freezing in winter and helps avoid condensation in summer.

Francisco Fuenmayor, a home improvement expert at LocalProBook, says, 'Insulating pipes in the basement helps reduce heat loss and prevent condensation, essential in both winter and summer.

'Simply measure the pipes, cut foam tubes to size, and secure them along any exposed hot water or HVAC pipes to keep the basement's ambient temperature stable.'

Foam tubes are affordable and easy to install, especially helpful for unfinished basements. For more, check out our guide on how to insulate pipes.

If your basement is not temperature controlled, insulating your pipes could also help avert the risk of frozen pipes, leaks and other winter havoc.

6. Thermal curtains

Thermal curtains provide insulation for basement windows, helping prevent heat loss in winter and blocking sun in summer. These heavy, insulated curtains add an extra layer to seal out drafts and reduce energy transfer. Learn more about how to insulate your windows for reduced heat loss.

Fuenmayor says, 'Thermal curtains create an added barrier against cold drafts from basement windows, adding both insulation and a bit of design. Simply hang thermal curtains over windows, closing them during colder months to retain heat, then opening them in summer to allow the basement to cool.'

For more top tips, check out our guide on the best ways to heat a basement.

7. Window sealant

Sealing windows is a quick and effective way to eliminate drafts and improve insulation. Use weather-resistant sealants or caulk, available on Amazon for quick delivery, around window edges to keep air from leaking in or out.

Christensen says, 'We addressed potential air leaks by sealing gaps and cracks around windows, doors, and utility penetrations with spray foam insulation. This step is crucial because even small drafts can significantly undermine your insulation efforts. Sealing these areas helps maintain a consistent indoor temperature and improves energy efficiency.'

This small investment helps maintain a stable temperature in your basement.

8. Heat barriers

Heat barriers reflect radiant heat away from the basement, making them especially useful in warm climates.

Installed on walls or ceilings, they prevent outside heat from entering the space, keeping it cool in the summer. In winter, they can help retain indoor heat when combined with other insulation types.

Fuenmayor says, 'A radiant heat barrier blocks heat transfer, which is great for unfinished basements with exposed joists. It’s particularly effective in hot climates. Staple the radiant barrier foil between the floor joists above to reflect heat back into the basement during winter and out in the summer.'

9. LiteSIP

LiteSIP, or lightweight structural insulated panels, offer superior insulation and strength. These panels consist of a foam core sandwiched between two rigid layers, providing high energy efficiency. LiteSIP panels are versatile and can be used on walls, floors, or ceilings to create a well-insulated basement.

Harrison Langley, CEO of MDLR Brands, says, 'Our LiteSIP products provide a unique, energy-efficient approach to insulation, making them ideal for basement environments where temperature control and moisture resistance are essential.'

FAQs

Is insulating my basement worth the cost?

Yes, basement insulation can lead to significant energy savings over time, which helps offset initial costs. Proper insulation reduces heating and cooling bills, making your home more comfortable year-round. A well-insulated basement also increases home resale value, as energy efficiency is a key selling point.

Do I need to insulate my basement ceiling as well?

Insulating the basement ceiling can help separate the thermal zones, especially if the basement is unheated. This keeps the upper floors warmer in winter and prevents cool air from escaping into the basement in summer. However, if your basement is heated and used frequently, insulating walls and floors may be more beneficial.

For more, see what happened when our writer investigated: Should you insulate a basement ceiling?

How can I prevent moisture issues in an insulated basement?

Moisture control is crucial in basements, as insulation can trap moisture if not properly managed. Use vapor barriers and choose moisture-resistant insulation types, such as rigid foam or spray foam, to prevent mold and mildew. Additionally, maintaining proper ventilation and addressing leaks or water seepage will help keep the basement dry and healthy.

So there you have it – nine basement insulation ideas to keep heat in during winter, and out in the summer. Insulating your basement offers multiple benefits, from energy savings to improved comfort.

Next, check out our guide on 'What is glass wool insulation?'

As the colder weather approaches, keeping your home cozy and warm becomes more and more difficult.

Between drafts, moisture, and frost, it seems that the outside temperatures get inside through every nook and cranny, so it's no surprise that heating bills increase. Window insulation kits feel like an affordable way to keep it at bay, but do they actually work?

Here, we spoke to HVAC pros to find out their thoughts about whether they're effective to keep your house warm without turning up the heat.

Do window insulation kits work?

The good news is that HVAC pros agree that, all in all, window insulation kits do work to weatherproof your windows and can make some difference to your energy bills and comfort.

Sabi Kampeas, CEO and founder of Kasa201 LLC, explains, 'Indeed, window insulation kits are effective. By adding an additional layer of insulation to your windows, window insulation kits lower drafts and increase your home's energy efficiency.

'Typically, these kits include a clear plastic film that is placed on the window frame and heated (either with a heat gun or a hair dryer) to tighten it. This increases home comfort by forming an air barrier that lowers heat loss,' therefore helping you to save money at home.

All prices correct at time of publication.

How to install window insulation kits

If you do want to try your hand at DIY draft proofing, this is what the experts recommend:

• Clean and dry your windows first: using a commercial product such as the Windex® Glass Window Cleaner available at Walmart, or a homemade window cleaner, with a microfiber cloth. Jame Marino, general manager at Pinnacle Home Improvements, says, 'For the best results with these kits, it’s all in the prep and installation. Make sure the window frames are clean and dry before you start sticking anything on.'
• Select an appropriate kit size: It may seem obvious, but there's no point in trying to use a kit that is far too big, or far too small, for your windows, as this won't work effectively. Home improvement expert Kampeas says, 'Before you buy a window insulation kit, take precise measurements of your windows. In order to accommodate various window types, kits usually come in a variety of sizes (such as 3' x 5' and 4' x 6'). To avoid any spaces where heat could escape, pick one that completely encloses the window area.
• Use a heat gun or hairdryer: This will usually be the recommended method on the product instructions and therefore will yield the best results.

What are the drawbacks of window insulation kits?

As with any hack to insulate a home, window insulation kits have their downsides. Firstly, they can be tedious to install for the first time as you get to grips with the kit, especially if you are working on your own. They can take a bit of practice to ensure a snug fit.

The next drawback is the efficiency. While they can make a small difference, they aren't that effective. I.E. you couldn't rely on them alone to keep a poorly insulated house warm. They are more an addition to your existing window treatment ideas than a standalone solution.

Glenn Wiseman from Top-Hat Comfort Services says, 'They're more of a quick fix than a game-changer for your energy bills. While they can make your home feel less drafty and a bit more comfortable, don’t expect them to dramatically cut your energy bills. The plastic doesn’t provide a lot of insulation, so the energy savings are usually modest.'

For example, window insulation kits are far less effective than investing in energy-efficient windows, or double-glazing. They will also deteriorate over time, especially when exposed to the sun which can make the plastic film wrinkle, tear, or yellow. As a result, it needs replacing regularly, approximately once a year.

Nevertheless, they will make a home feel warmer in a pinch, especially because they are much cheaper than investing in double-glazing, which is a small home upgrade that can boost home value.

FAQs

Do window kits help reduce energy consumption?

So, in terms of maintenance tasks to lower your energy bills, how well do window insulation kits work?

According to Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and founder of AirConditionerLab, they can actually reduce heat loss through windows by up to 35%. He advises, 'Since windows are responsible for up to 30% of heat loss in many homes, this added insulation can help reduce heating needs. Depending on how drafty your house is, you may save around 10-20% on your heating bill over the winter if you insulate all your windows.'

Andrii Gurskyi, HVAC expert and founder of Mr. Glazier, agrees with Mitchell, stating that, with proper insulation, they can easily help mitigate heating costs by around 10 to 15 percent. 'This is accomplished through improving the air circulation within the house and reducing air leakage,' he says. 'They work exceptionally well in older houses with single pane windows, where there is a high level of heat loss.

'Although these are not a substitute for a new window, these can be a good economical stop gap until new windows are fitted,' particularly if you seal gaps in windows to stop cold air leaks.

To do so, we recommend using caulk, such as the DAP® Alex Plus White Acrylic Latex All Purpose Caulk available at Walmart, which is flexible, durable, and 100% waterproof.

'If you’re dealing with major energy loss, though, these kits are more of a band-aid solution,' says HVAC expert Wiseman. 'For bigger savings and long-term comfort, you might want to think about upgrading insulation or sealing air leaks around the house.

Those changes tackle the problem at its source and can make a noticeable difference in your heating bills. But for a cheap and easy way to feel cozier this winter, window insulation kits aren’t a bad place to start.'

Next, learn about which areas of your home you should always insulate, for a warmer winter.

In winter, finding ways to keep a house cozy can often feel like an almost impossible task.

From radiators to log-burners, solutions are often expensive and, failing that, ineffective – particularly if you live in an older, or high-ceiling home. But, what if you could increase the insulation of your space, without breaking the bank?

Here, HVAC experts explain how to use your curtain ideas to keep your home toasty, without increasing your energy bills.

Curtain hacks for a warmer winter

1. Choose heavier fabrics

Just like clothing, opting for heavier fabrics for your living room curtain ideas or bedroom curtain ideas will help keep your home warmer.

Al Fouz, owner of Abaco Air Experts in Jacksonville, explains, 'To keep your home warmer in winter, opt for heavier fabrics like velvet or wool for your curtains.

'I've seen how even clients in less frigid climates benefit from these materials. They serve as insulating barriers, much like how properly maintained HVAC united preserve indoor temperature.'

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

2. Use magnetic strips or wooden pelmets

While you may consider pelmets a dated window treatment to avoid, they are an effective way to keep your home cozy. And, if you are really opposed to them, Malak Bellajdel, interior designer and current consultant for Metal Plex, who was recognized as one of Interior Design Magazine's '30 Under 30 Top Designers' in 2023, suggests magnetic strips.

She says, 'On those windy days where your curtains blow slightly, and where the heat floats away, you can use magnetic strips (such as the Blackout Blind Accessory 12 Pair Magnetic Closure with Adhesive for Blackout Curtains available at Amazon) along the top edge of your curtains to stick them to metal window frames.

'For wooden frames, using a simple wooden pelmet works wonders.'

3. Add curtain reflectors

Curtain reflectors work by reflecting your indoor heat back into the room, helping to keep warm air inside, rather than letting it be lost through the window.

Francis Kaspar, HVAC technician at The Chill Brothers, explains, 'They can be a game-changer, especially for older windows that might not be doing their fair share for insulation. Just attach them to your existing curtains, and you're all set.'

For this, Kaspar recommends the Warm Window Insulated Fabric available at The Warm Company, as 'it can keep up to 95% of heat from slipping out the window.'

4. Consider window insulation

HVAC expert Fouz recommends considering window insulation to help your curtains do their job better this winter.

He says, 'For those conscious about air quality, consider window treatments that integrate eco-friendly materials.' This not only helps to cut energy bills, but is also a great way to be sustainable at home.

HVAC expert Kaspar recommends the 3M Indoor Window Insulation available at Amazon, 'A bit of a bonus tip – it goes on your windows and works wonders when paired with thick curtains. This combo will block drafts and save energy!'

5. Layer your curtains

We love layering in interior design, and layering your large window curtain ideas not only looks great, it's practical and affordable, too.

Colin Matei, owner and president of Clean Air Heating & Cooling, says, 'Layering curtains is a practical method that adds not just to the aesthetic but also improves the thermal barrier.

'I recommend a doubled-up approach where a sheer curtain is combined with a heavier thermal layer. This traps air between the layers and acts as an insulating pocket.'

6. Choose longer curtains

Wondering how long curtains should be? Well, if it's warmth you're after, opt for longer, says interior designer Bellajdel.

She says, 'Let your curtains lightly touch the floor or even puddle slightly. Go for two to three inches longer than needed and just make sure they're not so long they become a tripping hazard.'

Conquer how to measure for curtains, and purchase ones with some extra length. This can reduce heat loss by up to 40%, and trap any drafts which may come through the window.

Caulk, such as the GE Momentive Performance Materials GE286 Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & Bath Sealant available at Amazon, can also be used to seal gaps in windows and stop cold air leaks. Just make sure you know the places you shouldn't caulk around windows before getting started – basically any moving parts.

7. Add thermal insulated lining

If you don't want to splurge on any new modern curtain ideas, HVAC expert Kaspar suggests insulated liners, instead. He says, 'Insulated liners clip right onto the back of your current curtains. They're like a secret later that works to trap heat inside.'

Kaspar recommends the Thermalogic Ultimate Thermal Energy Saving Blackout Window Curtain Liner available at Amazon, which fits with all curtain styles, as they are, 'simple to install, add weight, and are great at keeping rooms toasty.'

FAQs

Does keeping curtains closed keep heat in during winter?

Simply keeping your curtains closed in winter is a great way to keep your house warm without turning up the heat, helping you to save money at home.

High-quality curtains can reduce heat loss by up to 40%, particularly if they are floor length. Keeping thermal curtains closed will also increase their efficacy.

Still looking for ways to keep a poorly insulated house warm? Why not try using window film or heaters to keep your home feeling comfortable and cozy.

If you have a garage, you’ll know the temperature in there usually doesn't compare with the comfort of a well-insulated home. But, do you need to insulate your garage to bring it up to the same standard as your home?

We've spoken to garage, insulation and construction pros and who have shared the things to consider before insulating the space above your garage, what to use, and when to never insulate this area.

Learn where your particular garage setup is an area of your home you should always insulate, or avoid.

When to insulate above a garage

Just because you have a space above your garage, it doesn't immediately mean that it needs insulating. How you use your garage and what lies above, or inside it, will help you decide what you should do.

When to insulate:

• If you have living space above
• You use the space for a home gym, workshop or other useful living space
• Want better temperature control in the space over cold winters and hot summers
• Want to keep noise in

When you shouldn't insulate:

• If the above factors are not in play and you have a strict budget
• If it's not properly ventilated as the insulation could leave to condensation, and even mold
• It's just used as standard store

Timothy Wood, Founder and CEO of Fix It Today explains, 'Insulating your garage can be good, but it's not always a practical choice, or even necessary. If it’s just a place to stash your lawn tools, bikes, or other stuff that doesn’t need temperature control, insulation might be a waste of money.’

It could lead to other issues you're better off not having to deal with. Wood says, ‘If the garage doesn’t see much action, insulating it won’t make a noticeable difference, and you might even end up with condensation issues if it’s not ventilated properly.’

However, even if a garage doesn’t get a lot of use, it could still need insulating as Matthew Coates of Coates Design Architects + Interiors explains, ‘Insulation’s probably worth if it’s got living space above. You definitely want to insulate the floor between the garage and the room to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.’

Learn more about how to keep your garage cool in hot weather.

Coates adds, ‘Even if it’s just used for storage, adding insulation can still help regulate temps, though it’s not essential.’ Doing so might also expand the types of items you store there as the lack of temperature control is one of the issues professional organizers warn about when sharing the items to get rid of from your garage.

If you have a freestanding garage Coates suggests, ‘You usually only need insulation if you’re using the space regularly, like for a workshop or gym.’

Joe Meringolo, Founder & Principal at JSM Project Management adds it is always a good idea to consider site-specific conditions in any home improvement project.

He says, 'Whether you live in an area that is colder, hotter, more humid, loud, you should consider the local conditions of the products and quantities you choose. If your teenager wants to host band practice in the garage, the acoustical dampening properties of Rockwool's Safe and Sound product will provide considerable sound absorption benefits.’

Ways to insulate above a garage

When adding insulation above a garage, the installation methods are very similar to how you insulate a crawl space, insulate a ceiling or wall. But you need to make sure that you are choosing the right insulation to match with how the garage is being used, as detailed below.

1. For simple temperature control

If the space isn’t going to be used on a regular basis or as a living space, then you only need to have basic temperature control.

To achieve this, Meringolo says, ‘Pink fiberglass insulation, such as Owens Corning R-13 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Roll Insulation (available from Lowes), AKA Pink Panther, is suitable.’

2. All-round insulation

If you want greater control of the temperature in a garage, Coates suggests Rockwool, such as the ROCKWOOL COMFORTBATT R-23 from Lowe’s, as a good all-round solution.

He explains, ‘I usually recommend Rockwool, often referred to as mineral wool. It’s great for soundproofing, moisture resistance, and fire safety – all big pluses for garage setups.’

Plus, he adds, ‘It's awesome for ceiling or walls, especially if you’ve got a room above.’

3. Extra a warm insulation

If you are looking to use the space above a garage as a living space and you live in a colder climate, Coates has an alternative option to Rockwool.

‘Foam boards like Owens Corning’s XPS panels are also solid for high R-value insulation.’ This value is a measurement for how well an insulation material stops heat from moving through it. The higher the value, the better it is at the job.

Coates adds, ‘If you want a full seal, and a full thermal break in the building envelope, put the rigid panels on the exterior of the structure (under the siding) which gives a huge boost in performance.’

The best and most expensive

If you’ve got the budget to spend and want to insulate above your garage to the max, Coates recommends a professional finish.

‘Spray foam is ideal and works the best because it also seals up all the little cracks and holes, but it is the most expensive option.’ This is largely due to the labor costs and the machines needed to do a brilliant insulation installation.

Common insulation mistakes to avoid

As a general rule when adding insulation, consider the climate where you live. Coates advises, ‘In colder areas, go for a higher R-value, especially in the ceiling. The higher the R-value the better insulation you will have. In hot areas, reflective insulation can be a smart add-on to keep out the heat.’

The lack of a vapor barrier is also a common mistake. Woods adds, ‘Consider adding a vapor barrier, especially if you live in a humid area. It will help prevent moisture buildup, which can lead to mold or mildew over time.’ Discover how to reduce your homes humidity to help stop mold growth.

And finally, Coates warns us to remember the garage door. He explains, ‘Don’t forget the garage door itself – there is no point in insulating everything else if the door is just a big thermal gap.’

Find out How to insulate a garage door to plug that gap and what to avoid, too.

The pros and cons of insulating above a garage

Introducing insulation will bring some useful and obvious benefits. Coates says, ‘It keeps the space above a garage warmer in winter and cooler in summer, reduces noise from the garage, and cuts down on moisture.’ And as an added bonus, ‘It might also add a little value to the home if you’re ever looking to sell.’

Alongside these benefits there is consideration for those who are going to use as Meringolo shares, ‘Health and safety of the inhabitants should be a top consideration. Thus, insulating the space above a garage is essential if you are conditioning the space for inhabitants.’

Also consider how to insulates pipes in your garage or above to help stop them bursting in inclemental weather.

He adds, ‘You definitely want to create a protective barrier from chemicals, fuels and vehicles stored and used in the garage space below. If there are flammable materials, dangerous vapors, or other hazardous materials in the garage, then make sure you use the appropriate products that are fire resistant, breathable, or encapsulating in some cases.’

But there are downsides to insulating above a garage as Coates explains, ‘You won’t see massive energy savings here since it’s a garage, unless the garage is heated.’ And, there are more obvious unwanted issues he adds, ‘There is a risk if the insulation isn't not done right, you can trap moisture and end up with mold issues.’

Can insulation grow mold? Yes it can, and when it becomes noticeable there can be unwanted practical issues as well says Coates, ‘It can be tough to access the insulation if you need repairs later and the insulation is covered by drywall.’ This will need to be removed and replaced adding unwanted costs.

When you should avoid insulating above a garage

Adding insulation above a garage is not a cheap proposition, so you need to consider if it's a job worth doing. Coates says, ‘It can get pricey to do a good insulation job, especially if you use spray foam.’

Alongside cost the key decision not to insulate is straightforward. Is it worth it?

Coates says, ‘If the garage is pure storage or you’re in a mild climate with a detached garage, it’s often just not worth the cost.’

The benefits it will bring are minimal, with Coates having some final wise words. ‘If you’re on a tight budget, there are usually better places to invest in insulation around the house.’

Why not try different ways to insulate a wall, or delve into the different attic insulation types to help keep your home at the temperature you want and your energy bills down.

Next, learn how to winterize a garage. It's a good a time as any to learn how to declutter a garage to make space for tools and equipment. If your old one is past its prime and causing you problems with pests or condensation, it might be time to find how much it costs to replace a garage door.

Insulation is one of those annoying home renovation tasks. It is a must to keep your home energy efficient and regulate temperature, but it can be a pain to install, and pricey at that. The last thing you want is to have to do it twice.

But did you know that insulation sometimes needs replacing? While it isn't a common occurrence, insulation can start to break down or become less efficient over time, especially if it wasn't installed correctly or has become damaged.

Our HVAC and home-building pros reveal the five common signs you need to replace your insulation, no matter what type of insulation you have.

Signs you need to replace your insulation

Mehdi Khachani, owner of Sunny Bliss Plumbing & Air Conditioning begins by assuring us, 'Insulation doesn’t typically need replacing unless there are issues such as damage, moisture, or compression. The material and installation method can influence the longevity of insulation:

• Material: Different types of insulation have different lifespans. For example, fiberglass insulation can last up to 20 years or more if it’s properly maintained, whereas foam board insulation may last longer due to its superior sealing properties.
• Installation: If insulation was poorly installed or hasn’t been maintained over the years, it may need replacement sooner. Insulation that was not installed correctly (for example, it has gaps or improper sealing) will not perform efficiently and could lead to increased energy bills.

Replace your insulation, and you will be well on your way to keeping a home warm all day.

Here are the signs to watch out for that it's time to replace your home's insulation, and ideally, catch as early as possible:

1. Higher energy bills

Slashing energy bills is usually at the top of everyone's to-do list be it summer or winter, so if you notice yours creeping up but you aren't changing your habits, it might be your insulation.

Mehdi Khachani continues, 'Insulation plays a crucial role in maintaining a comfortable indoor temperature without excessive heating or cooling. If your energy bills are higher than usual despite normal usage, it could be because your insulation is insufficient or deteriorating.'

Keeping a poorly insulated home warm or cool is certainly possible, but it is far more expensive and more difficult than a home with quality insulation. The insulation replacement is a high up-front cost that will save you both in the long term.

2. Fluctuating temperatures or drafts

There is only so much you can do to draft-proof your home before you have to admit defeat and consider that fluctuating indoor temperatures or drafts could be down to insulation issues.

Guillaume Drew, founder of Or & Zon says, 'A significant increase in energy costs or cold drafts is, in many cases, an indicator that there is little or no insulation in a structure. A lot of these people can tell that in winter, some rooms are too cold or in summer, some rooms are uncomfortably warm, which is the effect of insulation becoming ineffective.'

Draft-proofing and turning up the heat is only a short-term fix for hot and cold spots in your house, but can be partially effective while you wait for a contractor.

3. Moisture issues

If you are stuck in a constant loop of trying to reduce humidity in a house or getting rid of black mold, it could be that your insulation has failed. This causes an increase in moisture throughout your property. In a vicious cycle, this can then make insulation degrade even faster, reducing your protection even further.

When this happens, it is wise to have an expert assess the damage and the cause of the moisture. They can then decide the best path forward to replace insulation and tackle any lingering moisture issues.

Bob Berriz, owner of Berriz Design Build adds, 'I can affirm that high-quality materials like spray foam or fiberglass installed by professionals can last longer if moisture issues are controlled. For instance, proper basement insulation using foam board in damp areas can prevent condensation and prolong the insulation’s effectiveness, a technique we employ in our remodeling projects.'

While waiting for a professional service, consider investing in the best dehumidifiers (such as the highly-rated NineSky Dehumidifier, from Amazon) to help tackle moisture before it causes serious mold issues.

Learn whether you should keep your crawl space vents open or closed for more insight on controlling your home's moisture and mold risk.

4. Visible damage or mold

Perhaps surprisingly, insulation can grow mold. It can also shift around if it is not properly installed, become bedding for pests, or generally degrade if subjected to fluctuating moisture and dryness.

Because of this, visible signs of damage are a sure sign your insulation needs replacing says Allan DeGuzman, founder and CEO of Home Purchasing Pros.

He explains, 'Visible signs of wear, like sagging or crumbling insulation, are also common in older homes. For properties we work on, I always keep an eye out for moisture buildup, mold, or signs of pests, as these issues can signal that the insulation has reached the end of its lifespan.'

Investing in a quality dehumidifier, such as the GE Smart Energy Star Portable Dehumidifier, rated the best overall dehumidifier by H&G is a good way to manage moisture while waiting for a contractor.

Cellulose-based attic insulation types are particularly prone to mold if they become wet.

5. Age

As with just about anything, the older something is, the less efficient it likely is. Older insulation is more prone to efficiency issues, leaving your home cold or damp. Experts advise adding checking your insulation to your winterizing a house checklist.

Jack Golini, contractor and owner of Golini Roofing shares, 'I’ve observed that older homes, especially those we’ve worked on in Wakefield, MA, often suffer from insulation degradation that contributes to such issues.

'It's vital to consider the type of insulation installed. In my experience, fiberglass tends to degrade faster than cellulose or spray foam. Proper installation from the outset is essential for longevity, which is why I highly recommend hiring professionals.

'When we re-roof, we ensure any insulation we replace is correctly installed to maximize its lifespan and energy efficiency benefits.'

Luckily, there are some ways to help improve the lifespan of your home insulation and make your home heating types more efficient assures Jack Golini, contractor.

He says, 'Maintaining insulation involves regular checks for moisture accumulation and pest infestations, which can deteriorate its effectiveness. I’ve seen clients benefit from periodic evaluations of their attic and wall insulation, which not only extend their lifespan but also lead to substantial savings on energy bills over time.'

Next, learn where to insulation your home to keep it warm in winter and how to use snow as a diagnostic for insulation.

Knowing where to insulate your home will keep it feeling cozy and snug throughout the colder months.

We talked to the experts about the six areas of the home people should focus their insulating efforts on, as well as their advice on where to avoid to avoid problems down the line.

As winter approaches, many homeowners will be keen to find out how to keep a poorly insulated home warm. However, if you want to keep your property feeling comfortable, as well as ensuring your fuel bills don't rise astronomically, learn where to add in new insulation with our expert-approved guide.

The places in your home to always insulate

'Insulation is also one of those things that you will not get the money back that you invested when selling,' says Geoff Walker, superintendent at ASAP Restoration, 'but you will be glad you purchased it every time you don’t feel that pesky draft in your favorite room.

1. Take care of windows and doors first

When looking at how to prepare a house for cold weather, you really want to make sure that you are insulating those spots in the home where heat loss is most likely to occur. This will prevent your time and money to being wasted.

'The most heat loss from a home occurs at the windows and doors,' advises Geoff Walker. 'Any openings you have in the sides of a home will be a source for heat loss and air transfer. Gaps and cracks in the trim and frame can let out a huge amount of air and thus increase your bills.

'There is no way of eliminating heat transfer through these mediums completely, but you can reduce the amount lost by shoring up any gaps and cracks with caulking to ensure there is less heat transfer to the outside world.'

Use weatherproof, crack-proof sealant, especially outdoors, such as Gorilla Silicone Waterproof sealant on Amazon. Indoors, if you want to be able to paint over the area gap you plug up, use this acrylic latex caulk that is paint-ready in 30 minutes.

'People tend to not realize when it is time to replace their windows and that goes for the caulking and glass seals – which makes sure there is a gasket separating the inside and outside air – as well,' further explains Andrew Prchal, president of Gunner. 'Without a tight seal separating the interior of your home from outside air infiltration, you can find yourself wasting money trying to heat or cool the outdoors without even officially opening a window.'

2. Don't neglect your loft space

Your loft is another area of the home that needs attention when it comes to insulation – lots of heat can be lost here if you don't insulate it properly. Luckily, there are some easy attic tweaks to make heating cheaper.

'After windows and doors, your attic will lose a lot of the heat that you produce in your home,' explains Geoff Walker. 'This is because hot air rises and, when it gets into the attic, it is trapped there until it flows out of the ventilation ducts, or until it is replaced by cooler air from below.'

You should focus on adding insulating between wall studs and between and over floor joists. You can also add insulation into the rafters. Don't neglect to insulate your loft access door either – this can be a real heat-loss hot spot.

Insulating a loft needs to be done with care though and it really will pay to investigate the various types of attic insulation first. While adding around 300 mm of insulation will really help lower household bills, you need to be careful not to over-insulate here.

'A big mistake that people make when insulating is not allowing the home to have proper ventilation,' confirms Andrew Prchal. 'This can cause issues with the roof or siding overheating and prematurely deteriorating.

If you ever have a leak in the roof, check your insulation as some types are prone to mold when they get wet.

3. Prioritize exterior walls

If you are winterizing a house, according to the experts we spoke to, insulating exterior walls is far more effective than adding insulation to the inside of your walls. All exterior walls should be insulated, including those that separate an unheated garage or outbuilding from the main house.

'Air could be sneaking in or out through gaps and cracks in the framing behind the siding,' says Andrew Prchal. 'While insulation is meant to trap the warm air inside your home and create a barrier between inside and outside, if you have gaps or cracks in the exterior framing, this can create another instance in which outside air is infiltrating your home and subsequently you will lose warm air to the elements. Siding can help seal it up, but what is best is an insulated barrier for insulated siding.

'The purpose of insulation is to keep the air from the exterior of the home from penetrating the interior,' continues Andrew Prchal. 'These parts are closest to the natural elements and more susceptible to infiltration from cold and warm air. This also included the roof.'

4. Some floor insulation is a good idea

If you have rooms that sit over an un-insulated garage, crawl space or overhang the ground floor, consider insulating the floors to keep them feeling comfortable once winter hits.

Fiberglass insulation or spray foams are both popular methods of insulating above a garage, and are easy to install on a DIY basis too.

Additionally, insulating a crawl space will help warm up the spaces it sits beneath. You can also add rugs to floors to add an extra layer to help with comfort and insulation.

Insulating interior walls can be a waste of time

While your exterior walls should be an area you focus on when insulating, if you don't want to end up over-spending on the task of keeping your home warm, it is best to leave your interior walls alone.

'Interior walls are one place that you don’t need to insulate,' says Geoff Walker. 'It likely won’t harm anything if you do, but the value is lost on doing so as this won’t affect the energy savings of your home at all. Insulating interior walls is like lighting a match inside of a broiler – you won’t even notice the effect.'

'Your interior walls you really don't need to insulate – it can be overkill and you will just be wasting money,' agrees Andrew Prchal. 'You want to focus more on the exterior because it is what is separating your home from the elements.'

Which areas shouldn't you insulate?

We can't talk about where to insulate without covering where not to insulate. Not only will insulating certain areas of the home be a complete waste of money, but it could also damage the structure of your property.

'You should avoid insulating walls made from materials that are designed to remain porous,' warns Geoff Walker. 'Bricks and old masonry structures are good examples of this. These materials are intended to absorb water and redistribute it in water vapor or to pass right through the medium. If you obstruct this flow, you may cause problems with moisture levels and evaporation issues that then lead to mold growth.'

Geoff goes on to point out that, damage aside, insulating some areas of your home is just a fruitless task that could, in some cases, lead to you starting to spot signs of mold in your home.

'You shouldn’t insulate areas of the home that you aren’t intending to use, as this will most likely just be a waste of money on your heating bill. These places might include your crawl space,' says Geoff. 'Beyond wasting money, these areas might need to remain uninsulated due to water evaporation needs or ventilation sources. If ducts and vents don’t get the proper airflow, they may not work properly. If these areas don’t get the proper moisture prevention, they may harbor mold growth.'

FAQs

What is the best insulation to keep a house warm?

Much of how to keep a home warm all day, no matter what the weather, comes down to choosing the best type of insulation for your budget and the area of your house you are addressing.

'There are several different types of insulation that can be used in one’s home,' explains Andrew Prchal. 'Some of them vary in costs and, when a specific type of installation is not needed, you can often take a more effective route to better insulate the home without involving a lot of additional work.

'For example, blown-in insulation (also known as loose fill) can be easier and more cost-effective than spray foam insulation but still provide similar benefits,' continues Andrew. 'Also, certain types of insulation are more invasive than others and may need to be done before putting on the drywall in the home.'

In the case of attics, blown-in or batt insulation (such as fiberglass, mineral wool and sheep's wool) is the most common. Loose-fill insulation tends to be less expensive than batt insulation and also provides better coverage.

What are the most common mistakes homeowners make when insulating?

Aside from failing to consider ways to improve ventilation in your home when adding insulation, what other mistakes do our experts warn against?

'An issue that can come out of insulating the home is not planning ahead as far as accounting for any electrical, plumbing or other wires that may need to be put in the wall in the future,' points out Andrew Prchal. 'A smart option is to add an empty PVC pipe behind the wall in specific locations that may require this in the future.'

Making sure you insulate your home effectively is just one step towards ensuring it is a pleasure to spend time in as winter begins to set in. Be sure to look into how to make a home cozy for fall through your decor too.

There’s nothing better than a warm home in winter or a cool house in summer, and insulating walls is one way to make that happen. It will improve energy efficiency, lower your energy bills and help protect the planet.

Our home maintenance and construction pros delve into five different ways to insulate your walls, and share their thoughts about which are easy to do yourself, and which ones might be better saved for the pros.

When installing wall insulation, it's worth taking a at the different types of attic insulation at the same time. Together, insulated walls and attics will your home better energy efficiently and reduce your energy bills.

Ways to insulate a wall

Adding wall insulation to your home is essential and there’s plenty of options to choose from. They all offer improved energy efficiency, but some are easier to install than others. Here the pros give the inside track on the insulation options and if it's a job you can do yourself.

1. Fiberglass insulation

Fiberglass is one of the most commonly used types of insulation in the construction industry. Made from tiny glass fibers, it’s mold and fire resistant and easy to install as Joe Meringolo, Principal of JSM Project Management shares. ‘Simply unroll it in between the studs with the paper side facing inside the home.’ He explains. ‘This is a do-it-yourself job if you prefer.’

If you decide to install yourself, it is pretty straightforward. Meringolo adds, ‘Assuming you have open bay framing, make sure the vapor barrier (the paper side) is on the inside of the home. Then staple the flanges to the framing.’

Crucially, you need to make sure that you get the correctly rated insulation as Meringolo points out, ‘Most homes require R-16 or higher. R-rating is how the level of insulation is measured. Walls are mostly R-16 or higher, ceilings and attics are mostly R-30 or higher. Other things to be considered are sound barriers and fire rating’.

Fitting fiberglass insulation is simple, unless you have to retrofit it, in which case, calling a pro is a good idea to avoid damaging wiring or other essentials by mistake when opening up the wall cavity.

2. Rockwell insulation

Rockwell is the brand name for a popular insulation used in construction. It is made from a rock-based mineral fiber insulation composed of basalt rock and recycled slag.

Al Ruggie from ASAP Restoration points out some of its benefits. He says, ‘It is a great material for reducing heat and energy loss through thermal transfer, and this results in lower energy bills and a more comfortable living environment.’

It is an ideal addition when looking at solutions on how to prepare your home for a freeze. He adds, ‘It is also remarkably resistant to fire and heat by being able to withstand very high temperatures without degradation, and has a strong ability to repel water.’

So how is it installed and can you do it yourself? Meringolo suggests that, ‘It can be a do-it-yourself project.’ Installation can be straightforward, but not always. He adds, ‘This will not have any flange (like fiberglass) to attach. An installer needs to make sure to purchase the right size that fits in the opening.’

If you can't find the right size, Meringolo says, ‘If the open area is an abnormal size, buy the next size larger and cut it to size. If used on an exterior wall, use a 6-mil plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier in-between the insulation and the sheet rock.’

If not confident tackling installation yourself, Meringolo suggests it’s best to call in a professional. ‘Installing insulation takes some skill, and a lot of expertise. This means that a DIYer who gets it wrong will be costing themselves more in energy bills than they’ll ever save by doing the job themselves.’

3. Cellulose insulation

Cellulose insulation is typically made from recycled paper making it a cost effective and more environmentally friendly insulation solution. The recycled paper is mixed with chemicals to help improve its fire resistance and avoid pest issues.

There are two ways to install it, Meringolo says, ‘Cellulose is either thrown in by hand or installed via a blowing machine.’ A blowing machine is the common pick, especially if being installed by a professional as it is quicker and easier.

He suggests you can install cellulose insulation yourself, but it will depend on how much is needed and what the application is. ‘A simple attic insulation is fine for DIY.’ But elsewhere, such as in walls, calling a pro in is a better choice.

Meringolo explains, ‘Inside walls, a hole needs to be drilled in between every stud and then the insulation blown in.’ He adds, ‘This equipment is usually too expensive to make sense to do it on a DIY basis.’

While installing cellulose is one way on how to keep a house warm all day it's not the cheapest insulation solution. So, if you do decide to do it yourself, Meringolo adds, ‘Ensure the correct thickness is installed.’ He adds, ‘The biggest mistake is to use too little or too much. Don’t intentionally block air channels (attic soffits for examples). Do not use in plenum ceilings, which is a common mistake and will clog up the HVAC units intake.’

4. Foam insulation

Foam is a more recent insulation option and is typically made from a low-density polymer. It boasts good insulation qualities, will seal up any air leaks and provide good sound insulation and protection against moisture. It's also a good option if you want to insulate a crawl space.

It is typically sprayed in using a machine, which as Meringolo explains, ‘Is a job best left to the pros.’ If you want to do it yourself you will need to invest in expensive equipment.

However, he adds, ‘Spray foam around windows and doors can be done by anyone.’ Meringolo recommends GREAT STUFF PRO Window and Door (available from Amazon) for adding around windows and doors. It comes as a kit and you simply screw the can onto the gun and you're ready to apply.

If determined to tackle the wall insulation project yourself, Meringolo says, ‘The correct thickness must be sprayed. Too much, and you will waste most of it making it highly cost ineffective. Too little will not accomplish the “R” rating desired.’ But he does point out, ‘This is not something the average DIYer should attempt’.

5. Natural fiber insulation

Natural fiber insulation is made from naturally occurring sources. Ruggie says, ‘These include wool, hemp, cork, cellulose dust, or spun wood fibers and strands held together in a glue matrix.’ He adds, ‘This makes it renewable, biodegradable, environmentally-friendly and non-hazardous when installing.’

Is it easy to install? Ruggie says, ‘Yes. It’s very DIY-friendly.’ Meringolo adds, ‘It can be installed as easily as fiberglass and Rockwool.’ It typically comes in a roll so you only need a knife to cut and install. However, while it's easy to install, it's not so easy to find, being typically sold at more specialist suppliers.

Given it's nature, it's really important to check any area with this sort of insulation if you have a leak, as it can lead to mold.

FAQs

What tools might be needed for insulation?

This will depend on what type of insulation is being installed. If using insulation that comes in a roll like fiberglass, Meringolo says, ‘A sharp knife, like this WORKPRO Premium Utility Knife from Amazon, and a staple gun are needed. He adds, ‘For Rockwool, typically, just a knife is needed.’ But for thicker insulation a hand saw is a good choice.'

Other insulation materials such as foam and cellulose will typically need a machine to blow the insulation into a wall. This can prove to be expensive and not cost effective, so it's often a better choice to call in a pro.

Do you insulate interior walls?

When insulating walls, it is typically the exterior walls that are filled with insulation. This helps improve energy efficiency and keeps in the heat in cold climates and the inside of a home cooler in warmer climates. This reduces costs on heating and air conditioning.

So, is there a reason to add insulation to interior walls? Joe Meringolo shares, ‘Home interior walls are only insulated if sound barriers are needed or different temperatures are being generated.’ He adds, ‘Typically, we insulate bedroom walls and ceilings, bathroom walls and ceilings and any other room where separation is needed.’

What do insulation R-values mean?

The R-value is how insulation is measured. It refers to the thermal performance of the insulation and its ability to resist heat or cold traveling through the insulation material. The higher the R-value the better its thermal performance is.

R-16 (or higher) is a common rating for walls though it can differ depending on location and climate. R-30 (or higher) is the common rating for attics. Check with your local authority for guidance in your area.

Keeping your home insulated will help keep down energy bills, but it's not just walls that need insulating. Check out our How to insulate a crawl space, and How to insulate pipes for a more energy efficient home. And, if looking to get your loft insulated check How much does it cost to insulate an attic

Draft-proofing sunrooms should be top of your to-do list before cold weather hits if you want to be able to continue to enjoy this space just as much through the winter as you did during the summer.

Sunrooms, sometimes also referred to as conservatories, solariums and garden rooms, are notoriously tricky spaces to get the temperature right in – often either overheating in the summer or feeling Arctic in the winter. Happily though, that needn't be the case.

We asked a range of experts for their top DIY draft-proofing tips to ensure that your sunroom stays cozy and warm no matter how low temperatures drop outside.

1. Fill in any gaps around windows and doors

Even if you have taken the time to ensure you aren't making any of the more common heating mistakes when it comes to your sunroom, you might still find it is too cold to spend time in during the winter if you don't address drafty windows and doors.

'All windows and doors have gaps and cracks in the trim and framing that keeps them held into the wall,' explains Josh Rudin, owner at ASAP Restoration LLC. 'Sunrooms, having many more windows that are bigger and often thinner or single paned, have more trouble keeping the internal temperature consistent and inside, where it belongs,' continues Josh. 'Sealing these gaps and cracks can go a long way towards thermal consistency. Simply add some caulking and weather sealant to these areas, sit back and enjoy the energy bill savings.'

'I suggest going heavy on flexible fillers, decorators' caulk, weatherstripping, or similar products to fill any gaps in the windows and wall space,' agrees Timothy Wood, founder and CEO of Fix It Today. 'You could also invest in spray foam insulation to keep heat from escaping the ceiling.'

All prices correct at time of publication.

2. Consider tinted glass or window film

Although often thought of as a method of preventing overheating in a sunroom, certain types of window film can actually help when it comes to keeping them warmer – and when you consider the cost of a sunroom, it makes sense to ensure you can use it as much as possible.

'Using clear plastic insulation film on your windows is the cheapest and easiest way to boost the windows' insulation – in some cases by up to 90%,' says Yaeir Moinzadeh, a MHIC licensed contractor and the owner of Blue Rise Baltimore Roofing.

3. Hang thermal curtains or blinds

While you might not want to block out all the light that your sunroom is designed to allow you to enjoy, as night falls, good quality, thick thermal curtains are the perfect way to keep snug and cozy. If you are dealing with small sunroom ideas, thermal blinds, available at Wayfair, can be a better option as they won't encroach on the space as much.

'If you’re trying to keep a sunroom warm throughout the night, when the most heat loss will occur, you can reduce this loss by adding thick thermal curtains to the windows and drawing them closed at night,' explains Josh Rudin. 'This will help to reduce the amount of contact the air in the sunroom has with the window glass and thus reduce heat transfer through it.'

'Thermal curtains or blinds are indeed a game-changer,' agrees Yaeir Moinzadeh. 'They can significantly reduce heat loss through those giant windows. And, above all, you can install them very easily. The trick is to choose curtains with light colors facing the window. This will help reflect the heat back into the room.'

4. Throw down some heavy floor coverings

This is a trick often used by homeowners looking at how to keep a poorly insulated house warm. Soft floor coverings can really help when it comes to draft-proofing and while you might not want to fit a wall-to-wall carpet in your sunroom, a large thick rug (or two) is a brilliant idea.

'Consider adding a thick, insulating rug – they're not just made to enhance looks,' says Yaeir Moinzadeh.

If your sunroom is often used as a route from your backyard into the rest of your home, be sure to choose a rug that is easy to clean or, even better, machine washable.

5. Don't forget about the ceiling

If your sunroom has a glazed ceiling, as opposed to a solid design, do be sure to check it for drafts in the same way you would your doors and windows.

When looking into how to prepare a house for cold weather, you should be aware that there are ways of drawing rising heat back down into the sunroom itself.

'A common mistake is forgetting about the ceiling,' says Yaeir Moinzadeh. 'As heat rises, warm air accumulates in the upper part of the room. Consider adding a ceiling fan set to rotate clockwise – it will help push warm air back down.'

FAQs

Does a sunroom need ventilation?

If you have been carefully researching ways to improve ventilation in your home, don't forget the importance of this when it comes to the design of your sunroom.

'A common mistake in keeping the sunroom warm is overdoing it,' warns Herbert Post VP of safety and health at Tradesafe. 'Often we are so focused on the task of sealing any gaps that we forget to leave room for proper ventilation. Without the right amount of ventilation, condensation can happen as well as mold growth.'

There are several ways to ventilate a sunroom. In some cases you can tie the sunroom into your HVAC system. However, if this is not an option, you can purchase a portable air conditioner.

This Portable Air Conditioner with Dehumidifier from Amazon balances humidity and helps introduce fresh air.

You could also consider adding a vent fan. These are similar to exhaust fans, but allow hot air in the ceiling space to be vented outside.

Meet the experts

As winter draws ever closer, be sure to familiarize yourself with how to prepare your home for a freeze – you don't want burst pipes and a faulty boiler to contend with.

It's normal for snow and ice to be a nuisance in winter, but bigger, more serious freezes can result in being trapped in your home, potentially with vital services cut out and supplies low.

Expert contractors say prepping your house for a big freeze is a vital task to carry out now, especially if you live somewhere that was hit badly last year. Their seven tips include insulating pipes and tanks, as well as stocking up on supplies and checking your insurance policy.

Here, they break down the best ways to prepare a house for cold weather and harsh freezes so you and your property stay safe until spring.

How to prepare your home for a freeze

Preparing your home for an intense freeze goes beyond when to worry about pipes freezing. It often involves prep work to ensure you will have everything you need to stay safe and healthy should you be snowed in, the power goes out, or local stores are closed due to adverse weather.

It has been documented that there is not only an increase in adverse weather events in the US, but also in the frequency.

1. Insulate pipes and tanks

Gordon Chalk, heating expert and owner of Next Level Underfloor Heating says, ‘One of the most important things to do when preparing for freezing temperatures is to insulate your pipes and water tanks. Un-insulated pipes are most prone to freezing which can cause bursts and water damage.’

Given that there will be few service engineers able to reach you should you be snowed in, this is essential to avoid and an easy fix now in milder weather.

Chalk adds, ‘I recommend using pipe insulation sleeves which are widely available and easy to install. Also, make sure to insulate or drain any outdoor faucets. Insulating your hot water tanks will keep the water warm and save you energy during the winter months.'

It pays to brush up on what to do if a pipe bursts, just in case your insulation fails, or the weather is more extreme than expected. This plan should include where to find your mains water shut off, and tools to help you dry out any affected areas.

2. Service your heating

Keeping a home warm all day will also be essential in a freeze. This not only keeps you safe and well, but limits damage to your property, too.

Gordon Chalk, heating expert, explains, ‘Don’t forget to service your heating system. Before the temperatures drop, have a professional inspect your boiler or heating system to make sure everything is working efficiently. A well-maintained system is less likely to fail during peak usage. Check your thermostat settings and replace any old or damaged filters to be efficient.'

This proactive approach will save you from emergency repairs when you need your heating most, and having it on your radar to complete means you will be able to find experts with availability. Leaving it too late can result in engineers and pros being out on emergency calls, meaning servicing and routine jobs get pushed down the list in terms of their availability.

How often you need to service HVAC system will depend on the age of your system and how often you use it. Generally speaking, older HVAC systems will need more frequent upkeep.

You might also want to brush up on heating your home when the power goes out, just in case, and consider investing in a digital temperature controller in the event of an extreme cold weather warning.

3. Stock up on supplies

It never hurts to have a stock of essential items to keep in your ‘junk drawer’ to help prepare for a freeze or prepare your house for hurricane season.

Gordon Chalk, heating expert adds, ‘In addition to preparing your home structurally, you should also stock up on supplies to ride out a freeze. Essential items are batteries for flashlights, warm blankets, nonperishable food, and bottled water. In the event of a power outage, these supplies will keep you and your family safe and warm. A first aid kit [available at Amazon] is also important as well as any necessary medication.’

4. Run your faucets

The best time to drip faucets is before a big freeze to prevent issues, rather than try to treat them.

Hendrik Vandepoll, co-owner of Service Force Plumbing says, ‘Whilst some suggest dripping the furthest faucet from the main shutoff is enough, simply letting the faucet furthest from the main valve drip will not prevent a vulnerable faucet that is closed from freezing.

'That specific faucet needs to be open to allow moving water through the vulnerable branch of the supply pipe, and to allow pressure buildup to release through it as well.’

You should also cover outdoor faucets to prevent spigots from freezing and cracking through winter, too.

5. Check your insurance policy

When futureproofing your home against extreme weather it is a good idea to check over your insurance policy and write the phone numbers somewhere easy to find so you know what to expect in an emergency. Keep your policy number and the company's contact or claims number saved in your phone, and in your phonebook.

Russell Vent, VP at Paul Davis Restoration, says, ‘You will want to understand your insurance policy and what is and is not covered by your insurer. Do not enter a freeze event assuming that every type of damage will be covered.

‘Call your insurance company or agent and review coverage for some of the types of issues listed above and others. Make sure you are keeping your home heated properly and you can prove it. Some insurance companies will require proof from your energy supplier that your home was being heated properly before affording coverage of a claim.

‘Finally, make sure you are checking on the property regularly. A good rule of thumb is every two weeks but it is best to clarify that with your insurance company. Failure to monitor your property, in my experience, has also led to insurance claim denials.’

Check the terms and conditions carefully too as sometimes historic events may make future claims impossible. Understanding your policy and securing the correct coverage, even if it comes at a premium may later prove to be a game-changer should the worst happen. Many new policies have an exclusionary time frame so make sure to check taking out a new policy doesn't disqualify you from making a claim in the next number of days, weeks, or months.

6. Invest in a portable generator

Part of preparing for a freeze is preparing a home for a power cut. This will be the most dangerous part of a deep freeze – especially if your heating is run on electricity.

Russell Vent, VP at Paul Davis Restoration strongly recommends ‘having a portable generator handy and with enough fuel (but never place it indoors).’

Joel Worthington, President of Mr. Electric, a Neighborly company, adds, ‘Standby generators should be serviced before the start of the cold season. This will help ensure the generator is ready to handle any outages that may occur due to the deep freeze.

A generator that has been serviced should be able to function when needed the most. Generators can keep the critical systems of the home, like the HVAC unit or heaters, running, which can help prevent frozen pipes, water damage, and other costly repairs from happening.’

7. Check your home insulation

Keeping a poorly insulated home warm is possible, but not recommended when in dangerously cold temperatures. Before a big freeze hits, consider having your home’s insulation bolstered, suggests Josh Rudin, owner of ASAP Restoration.

‘Your attic is a huge source of heat loss during the winter, but even more so during a deep freeze cycle. If you have enough time to prepare your attic with some additional insulation do so and reap the benefits of savings on your electric bill.

‘Additional insulation helps to keep the temperature that you set on the thermostat inside your home more constant. More insulation usually equals more heat retention as a general rule of thumb.’

Learn more about the types of attic insulation on offer to help you choose the right one for your home, and consider adding insulation to your garage door.

When a deep freeze hits, you might want to consider some other steps you might otherwise avoid during winter, such as leaving the heating on overnight to stay warm. It won’t help to cut energy bills, but it will ensure that you and your property are safe for the duration of the cold snap.

It is far from glamorous, but picking the right attic insulation for your home is crucial for keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer.

With so many types of attic insulation to choose from, however, it can be hard to know what to ask for when working with a contractor to improve your home. Picking the right one for your space can cut costs by 50% according to our construction pros.

To make the process easier, we spoke to professional contractors and roofing experts about six different types of insulation available, and how to pick the right one for your home to ensure your attic is safe and warm.

Types of attic insulation

Insulating an attic is, by far, the best technique to keep your attic at a comfortable temperature and lower your energy bills. Good insulation, however, is more than picking the right material, particularly if you want to avoid harmful types, which may be one of the toxic items in your attic. How you install it can also make a big difference, too.

Todd Miller, president at Isaiah Industries, Inc. says, ‘This is best done with insulation on top of the ceilings, not in the rafters. If you do choose to put insulation beneath the roof deck, you must be careful to not create a situation that traps moisture between the insulation and the roof deck. Such moisture will condense when the roof deck temperature drops cold, leading to potential mold and mildew.’

With the optimum location in mind, here is how to pick the right type for you.

1. Foam board insulation

Foam board insulation is one of the most common types of attic insulation. Also known as rigid foam insulation, it is made from a type of plastic and can be cut to size to insulate an attic.

Justin Kalcevic, owner of C. Kalcevic Roofing continues, ‘Foam board insulation provides the best insulation for attics, especially in extreme climates. Although initial costs are higher at $1 per square foot, the durability and ability to prevent air leaks can lower cooling costs up to 50% and provide long term savings.’

One downside to foam board insulation is it is incredibly flammable and can prove a fire hazard if it is not installed correctly. For this reason, we highly recommend hiring a highly-rated professional for the installation. Additionally, foam board installation is susceptible to moisture buildup, so good attic ventilation is a must to prevent mold.

2. Fiberglass insulation

The next most common type of attic insulation is fiberglass (also known as glass wool insulation).

Kevin McLaughlin, owner at Heritage Exterior says, ‘Fiberglass insulation is the most affordable but tends to settle over time, reducing effectiveness. It needs a vapor barrier and proper installation for the best results. While the upfront cost is low, around $0.25 to $0.35 per square foot, it may not save as much on energy costs long-term compared to spray foam or cellulose. For maximum efficiency, fiberglass often requires more frequent replacement by a professional contractor.’

Compared to foam board insulation, fiberglass insulation is a lot less flammable, meaning it might be safer for areas that have wiring. It is also a great sound-proofing material, helping to dampen outdoor sounds and make your home quieter.

Depending on the installation, fiberglass might need readjusting or replacing every 20 years as it shifts around over time. If it gets wet, it loses all effectiveness and becomes a breeding ground for mold.

3. Blanket insulation

Blanket insulation is simple to install, and is often cost-effective when trying to warm up a house. It is often made of fiberglass but is also available as mineral wool, or other plastic and natural fibers. It is rolled out flat and fitted between joists, studs, and beams that are free from wiring, pipes, and duct work.

Similarly to fiberglass, blanket insulation is a great soundproofing material, helping to block sound as well as keep heat in. More often than not, it can also help with moisture control (although you should still ensure your attic is well-ventilated to prevent mold and musty odors). Luckily, you can get rid of musty smells in the attic if any do develop.

Like most other insulation types, blanket insulation should be handled and installed by an expert, as it can be an irritant for both skin and airways if the correct protective equipment is not used.

4. Loose-fill insulation

Loose-fill insulation, also known as blown-in insulation, is a little less common, but it is a great option for awkward wall and ceiling cavities that you cannot easily reach to install foam panels or blanket insulation. It is usually made up of rock wool and is blown into place using a machine, ensuring maximum coverage with minimal effort.

Similarly to blanket insulation, it offers thermal insulation as well as soundproofing, while also being flame retardant, minimizing fire risks. That being said, it should still be installed by an expert who can use the machinery required safely.

Unlike blanket and foam board insulation, however, loose-fill is usually installed on the floor of the attic to stop heat from escaping from the rest of the home below, rather than in the roof joists. This means it is more suitable for an attic that is not being converted into an additional room.

5. Spray foam insulation

Todd Miller, roofing expert, says, ‘Closed cell spray urethane foam is a great option for attics. It has high R-Value [a number that tells you how good a material is at resisting the flow of heat] and is also a natural vapor barrier, helping to prevent condensation and mold in the attic.’

Spray foam insulation is useful as it can be sprayed straight onto the ceiling of a pitched attic, expanding to fit into every small gap to minimize heat loss and gain. With closed cell insulation firming up as it sets, it can reduce ventilation, so other considerations might need to be made to keep air flowing to prevent musty smells.

The downside to spray foam insulation, Todd adds, is ‘existing structures can be difficult to spray thoroughly,’ given the expansion space needed.

This insulation is quick to apply but needs to be installed by an expert who will have the correct safety equipment and required skill.

6. Thermal break

If you live in a climate that is hot all year-round and your main concern is insulating an attic to make a house cooler, then you might want to consider thermal break insulation instead.

Todd Miller, roofing expert, says, ‘In hot climates where you also want to keep heat outside during hot weather, opt for reflective roofing and thermal breaks in the roof system.

‘A thermal break is basically a dead airspace that stops the conduction of heat. When materials are tightly sandwiched together in a roof system, they conduct heat one to the next. However, adding a thermal break or dead airspace gap, no matter how small, can stop that heat transfer, similar to what happens with double-pane windows. There are some formed products such as metal shingles that have integral air spaces and that's great. In other cases, though, the thermal break can be achieved through certain roof assemblies.’

It is worth noting that this type of insulation is not best for those who live in cold or variable climates, as it is not designed to keep heat in, meaning you might find yourself trying to keep a poorly insulated house warm.

Attic insulation types can be difficult to wrap your head around. It is always worth doing some independent research and then talking to your contractor to make a fully informed decision. For those considering a larger renovation, be sure to check out our attic conversion guide for more tips on turning your attic into a functional, well-insulated space.

Be sure to check your insulation still works regularly, too. In winter, try the snow diagnostic for insulation to check the efficiency without having to go into the attic, and always make sure your windows are insulated.

We're always looking for ways to save money at home, particularly during costly renovations.

When it comes to keeping a house warm, glass wool insulation uses melted, spun glass for an eco-friendly alternative to traditional insulation options, such as mineral wool.

But how do you know if it's right for your home before investing? And what are the pros and cons? We spoke to construction and insulation experts for their thoughts, so you can keep your house warm without turning up the heat.

What is glass wool insulation – and how to know if it's right for your home

What is glass wool insulation?

During house-builds and renovations, one of the main things to consider is insulation to keep rising energy costs as low as possible. Consider all areas, including insulating a basement ceiling or even insulating a crawl space.

Using traditional materials such as mineral wool, available at Amazon can be costly, so glass wool is an effective, cheaper alternative you may not have heard of before.

'Glass wool insulation is a fun name for fiberglass insulation,' says Josh Rudin, owner at ASAP Restoration LLC, with over 20 years of experience in the construction industry. 'It is a blend of glass filaments and fibers made from spun melted glass at extremely high temperatures.'

The fine glass fibers then trap air to reduce heat transfer, holding warmth into your home. 'It's inexpensive, fire-resistant, and easy to install,' adds Jerome Bertuglia, owner of a residential construction company, Prime Homes, Inc., with over 30 years of experience with glass wool insulation.

What are the pros of glass wool insulation?

One of the most attractive pros of using glass wool insulation is that it is cheaper than traditional alternatives, and can be used to keep your attic at a comfortable temperature year round.

'Glass wool insulation is a very effective insulation, mainly for dry areas of the country,' says Matt Balducci, co-owner & CEO of HomeHero Roofing. 'The major "pro" of this material is that it insulates very well, keeping your home warm during the winter and cool during the summer.'

Martin Orefice, CEO of Rent to Own Labs also points out that it's simple to install, so can be used for any DIY renovation projects. He says, 'It's easy for homeowners to install themselves, making it a great option for DIY projects to retrofit attics and basements,' and it will save you money on home renovations and add value to your home, too. It's also highly fire resistant, so can be used to ensure your attic is safe.

And, if you're wondering why your heating is so expensive, Jason Hedtler, owner of Hedtler Roofing LLC, assures, 'I've found that in attics, glass wool cuts energy bills up to 25% in Massachusetts.'

What are the cons of glass wool insulation?

So, with so many pros, what are the cons of using glass wool insulation in your home?

Importantly, glass wool is not water-resistant. 'In fact if fiberglass insulation gets wet at all it will nearly instantly lose it’s insulation properties and at the same time become a substrate for old and mildew growth to run rampant,' says Rudin.

Owing to this, it loses effectiveness over time, and may need replacing more regularly than other alternatives. This is important if you live in a humid area. 'It is mainly suitable for areas without high humidity, since in damp conditions this insulating material will not work as well,' warns Balducci.

If you do attempt to DIY install this insulation, it is also prudent to note that glass wool insulation will cause extreme skin irritation. While there is no evidence that fiberglass poses severe risks like asbestos, there is still ongoing debate. 'One warning: protect yourself when handling this material,' says Orefice. 'The glass fibers can easily get into your skin, causing irritation.'

Be sure to wear fiberglass protection gloves, available at specialist stores, safety goggles such as the DEWALT DPG82-11 Concealer Clear Anti-Fog Dual Mold Safety Goggle available at Amazon, and a mask, such as the 8511 N95 Sanding and Fiberglass Disposable Respirator with Cool Flow Valve available at Home Depot.

Because of this, you may be wondering if you should hire a handyman. If you choose to, our essential guide to attic conversions is filled with handy advice from the pros, before you find a good contractor for your next project.

How do you know whether glass wool insulation is right for your home?

The first thing to consider is where you live – if your home is somewhere humid, rule out glass wool insulation immediately.

'To determine if it’s right for you, consider your budget, and whether you’re insulating an attic or walls,' says Bertuglia. 'In colder areas, higher R-values are better.'

The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance. The higher the R-value, the more thermally resistant your home will be. 'For attics, loose-fill glass wool is common; for walls, batts or blankets are typical,' adds Bertuglia.

'In my experience, glass wool suits many homes in Massachusetts if attic R-values of R-38 and wall R-values of R-13 are used,' says Hedtler. 'Higher R-values provide better insulation for the cost in cold weather. With proper thickness and professional installation, glass wool can lower heating bills despite downsides.

For the price, it's hard to beat if installed correctly.'

FAQs

What is the safest insulation to breathe in?

Insulation gets a bad reputation for being harmful to breathe in, but if you want a non-toxic option mineral wool or foam insulation inserts can be used, although foam inserts often contain formaldehyde. If you're looking for sustainable home renovation tips, our expert-led guide suggests ways to make your home more eco-friendly with features of sustainable design.

To stay safe, wear a protective mask during installation,

Did you know you can arrange a room to maximise heat and cut your energy costs?

Taking on a home addition can be exhilarating, exciting, and daunting all at the same time. Done right, it will transform your home and the way you live in it, plus add thousands, if not tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars onto the property value.

But if it goes wrong, it will feel like a never-ending nightmare. To help you avoid the pitfalls, and especially because prevention is better than a cure on a costly home building project, our construction and interior pros reveal the top five awful things they spot in home additions that make them wince and how you can avoid them.

From poor workmanship and flow to damp, ventilation and roof flashing problems, avoid these home addition issues in your upcoming building project.

Don't get caught out by these awful addition snags

1. Style clash

Austin Skoog, owner of Sky Side Exteriors, is a premier siding contractor in Kalispell, Montana and has seen his fair share of home additions that fail to impress.

He says, 'Let's just say they weren't exactly architectural masterpieces. While some additions are planned to be seamless and enhance a home's value, others are, frankly, an eyesore.'

Some of the common issues Austin has seen include a failure to integrate old and new well. He explains, 'One of the most glaring problems is a stark contrast in style between the original house and the addition. A modern box stuck onto a Victorian cottage, for instance, is a recipe for disaster. It’s like trying to force a square peg into a round hole.'

David Silva, interior designer of home remodeling company HomRem says, 'I've seen a lot of home additions, both good and bad and one of the immediate red flags for me is the feeling of the structure. For example, the floors in the rest of the house can feel sturdy and normal, but as soon as you walk into the addition, it feels cheap and hollow.

'Even if floors are the exact same material, the structure underneath makes them feel completely different. The same can be said for air quality. Bad additions usually have drafts and poor air conditioning that makes you feel like you stepped into a completely different house.'

Otherwise, poor integration of the original house and its new addition can stand out (badly) and impact function. Austin says, 'A good addition should flow seamlessly with the existing structure. It's about creating a cohesive look. When an addition sticks out like a sore thumb, it detracts from the overall appeal of the home.'

With his particular area of expertise, Austin is the first to spot any issues with the siding on a new home addition. He says, 'A poorly matched siding material or color can ruin the entire look of the house. It's essential to choose a siding that complements the existing exterior and withstands the local climate.'

Scot rounds, roofing expert, adds, 'I worked on a vinyl-sided addition awkwardly connected to the brick main house. The materials and style didn’t match, it was an eyesore.'

2. Poor insulation and ventilation

Relying on cheaper but shoddy workmanship can lead to problems where your insulation is concerned.

Scot Rounds, president of Sunray Roofing and Solar, says, 'I worked on a home where the existing addition was also poorly insulated, temperatures varied widely between the old and new sections.

In his experience, homeowners often focus too much on the cost of insulation materials without thinking of the quality that will be lost if this is an area that ends up being skimped on. Whilst budgeting well and realistically is the key to getting a project done on time without breaking the bank, you have to know where to pick your battles for the spread of the spend.

Scot says, 'The key to avoiding a terrible addition is thinking about how you’ll use the space and investing in high-quality, cohesive design and materials. Partner with an experienced contractor who cares about design, insulation, and seamlessly tying the addition into your existing home. Spending more upfront on skill and materials will save headaches and dollars for years to come.'

Joshua Riutta, owner of Mikku and Sons Roofing says, 'I often see ventilation issues, where there is insufficient or improper ventilation in the attic space in home additions. Poor ventilation can lead to moisture buildup, mold growth, and a reduced roof lifespan, as well as negatively affect indoor air quality.'

The experienced roofer explains this problem is often overlooked during the planning stages or neglected due to cost-cutting measures, with is a remodeling mistake. 'To avoid this, homeowners should ensure that adequate ventilation is included in their home addition plans and consult with a roofing professional to determine the appropriate amount of ventilation needed,' Joshua adds.

3. Lighting problems

Keeping your home bright and airy is a core facet of interior design, but what about when it comes to construction?

Austin Skoog says, 'Natural light is crucial for any living space. A poorly placed addition can block out light, creating dark, gloomy interiors. Conversely, too much light can lead to glare and overheating.'

Whilst you can pick one of the best paint colors for rooms without much natural light, it's not just aesthetics that you'll encounter.

In extreme cases, this can end up leading to damp and mold problems as well as ruining the flow and aesthetic of the original space.

4. Problems with the foundations

Having a solid foundation is the backbone of any structure and without a good one suitable for the additions materials, purpose and taking into consideration the ground, landscape, and regional weather, you might end up seriously paying the cost later. Structural issues are one thing you absolutely cannot afford to ignore.

Austin explains, 'If the addition's foundation isn't properly prepared or integrated with the existing one, it can lead to structural issues down the line. Wall and ceiling cracks, settling, and water damage are common consequences.'

This will not only cause you problems when living in it, but become a nightmare when it comes time to sell. Don't skip over highly-rated and experienced (and therefore more costly) construction experts to do the job. The architects and structural engineers who work on the plans and schematics are just as important.

If it means saving up for longer to get the better construction team (and the perfect architect) in, it'll be worth the wait – and extra spend.

5. Roofing errors

Joshua Riutta, a seasoned roofer, has seen many home additions that could have been executed much better.

He says, 'Some of the most common issues I notice include roofline discontinuity, where the roofline between the old and new sections doesn’t match. This mismatch in pitch, material, or style creates an unbalanced and unsightly look, and can lead to water damage if not properly addressed.'

This often happens due to poor planning or attempts to cut costs by using different materials. Joshua advises the best way to avoid this issue is to insist on a seamless transition between the old and new rooflines with your team and consulting with a roofing professional to ensure proper ventilation and drainage.

Another frequent problem is inadequate flashing, usually galvanized steel that is used to direct water away from areas where two materials meet. Joshua explains, 'I've seen flashing around chimneys, vents, and other roof penetrations either poorly installed or missing entirely. This is a major cause of leaks, which can result in water damage to walls, ceilings, and insulation inside the home.'

This usually comes about as a result of inexperienced or rushed workmanship. 'To prevent this,' Joshua says, 'it’s important to hire a qualified contractor with experience in roof flashing and regularly inspect the flashing for signs of wear or damage.'

Roof material mismatch can also lead to compatibility issues between the old and new areas of a home addition. This often happens because of cost differences or the availability of materials. Joshua adds, 'The best way to avoid this is to choose a consistent roofing material for the entire roof or select complementary materials that blend well together.'

Why do these things go wrong in home additions?

• Lack of planning: Insufficient planning is a major culprit., Austin says. Homeowners might focus on the interior without considering how the addition will look from the outside. Learn about the must-have things to consider before a remodel.
• Budget constraints: Sometimes, cost-cutting measures lead to compromises in quality and aesthetics. Instead, work on smart ways to source good building materials for less.
• Incompetent contractors: Unfortunately, not all contractors are created equal. A lack of experience or skill can result in a bad home addition.
• Ignoring local building codes: Building code violations can have serious consequences, including safety hazards and structural problems.

How to swerve these bad home addition problems

• Hire a qualified contractor: Research and choose a contractor with a proven track record and good reviews, Austin says.
• Create a detailed plan: Work with an architect or designer to develop a comprehensive plan for the addition and avoid renovation burnout.
• Consider the big picture: Think about how the addition will impact the overall look and feel of your home.
• Prioritize energy efficiency: Incorporate energy-efficient features like proper insulation and high-quality windows.
• Don't skimp on materials: Invest in quality materials for a long-lasting and attractive addition.
• Obtain Necessary Permits: Ensure all required permits are in place before starting construction.

By following these top spots from our panel of seasoned homebuilding and renovation professionals, you'll increase increase the chances of a successful home addition that enhances both the functionality and curb appeal of your property.

Next, delve into the things construction pros always spot in bad bathroom remodels.

A lot of homeowners now place a high premium on living sustainably. People are becoming more and more interested in finding sustainable and environmentally friendly ways to improve their homes as worries about climate change and the effects of human activity on the environment grow. 

Home remodeling is one of the most common ways to accomplish this. It might be difficult to choose the finest sustainable features for your house, though, because there are so many options available. 

When planning an eco-friendly remodel, learning how to be more sustainable in your interior design choices, as well as opting for sustainable garden ideas, will significantly enhance your home's efficiency and environmental impact. 

9 sustainable features for you to consider  

Below our experts have shared some key features for you to incorporate into an eco-friendly remodel. 

1. Energy-efficient windows

According to home renovation expert Rick Berres, energy-efficient windows are one of the first considerations for an eco-friendly home renovation project. These windows, often double or triple-pane with low-E coatings, significantly reduce heat loss during winter and help keep your home cooler in summer. 

By knowing what energy-efficient windows are and how they improve insulation, you can reduce the need for artificial heating and cooling, leading to lower energy consumption and reduced greenhouse gas emissions.

These windows come in a variety of styles, including casement, double-hung, and picture windows. They can be customized with different frame materials and finishes to match your home’s architectural style. This is a great way to increase natural light in your home and can make your interior feel more open and welcoming. 

2. Solar panels

Another key feature is the installation of solar panels. Solar panels are installed on the roof or other strategic locations to capture sunlight and convert it into electricity. They are composed of photovoltaic cells that generate direct current (DC) electricity, which is then converted to alternating current (AC) for household use.

Solar panels reduce dependence on fossil fuels, decrease electricity bills, and can even allow you to sell excess energy back to the grid. They contribute to a significant reduction in carbon footprint.

Modern solar panels are designed to be low-profile, easy to clean, and can be integrated with various roofing materials. Some options include solar shingles that blend seamlessly with traditional roofing. These panels can give your home a high-tech, environmentally-conscious appearance.

3. Reclaimed wood

Incorporating reclaimed wood into your remodel is both eco-friendly and visually appealing. Reclaimed wood, sourced from old structures or sustainably harvested forests, reduces deforestation and waste. This wood is often aged and weathered, and has a unique patina that adds character to any space.

Reusing wood reduces the demand for new lumber, helps preserve forests, and it also requires less energy to process compared to new wood.

Each piece of reclaimed wood is unique, offering rich textures, colors, and patterns that work well in both rustic and modern interiors. This sustainable material merges history with modern design, making it a standout feature in any eco-home improvement. 

4. Low-VOC Paints

 Opting for low-VOC paints such as Glidden Fundamentals Interior Paint from Walmart is another sustainable choice. Low-VOC (volatile organic compounds) paints have reduced levels of harmful chemicals that evaporate into the air as the paint dries, which reduces indoor air pollution and makes your home healthier. 

Low-VOC paints improve indoor air quality by reducing the release of toxins, which can cause respiratory issues and other health problems. They are safer for both the environment and the people living in the home.

With a wide range of colors and finishes, low-VOC paints can achieve any desired look, from bold accent walls to serene, neutral palettes. The improved indoor air quality also enhances the overall living experience.

5. Water-efficient fixtures

Water-efficient fixtures include low-flow faucets, showerheads, and dual-flush toilets. These fixtures use advanced technology to maintain performance while reducing water usage. For example, aerators in faucets mix air with water to maintain pressure while using less water.

These fixtures significantly reduce water consumption, conserving a precious resource and lowering utility bills. They also reduce the energy needed to heat water, further decreasing your environmental impact and cutting energy bills.

Water-efficient fixtures come in contemporary designs and finishes, such as brushed nickel, chrome, and matte black. They add a sleek, modern look to your bathrooms and kitchens, enhancing both functionality and style.

6. Green roofing

Green roofs, or living roofs, are partially or completely covered with vegetation, including a waterproof membrane, soil, and plants. They can be installed on flat or sloped roofs and are often designed with drainage and irrigation systems.

‘Green roofs provide natural insulation, reducing the need for heating and cooling,’ says Karl Harrison, founder of Karl Harrison Design. ‘They absorb rainwater, reducing runoff and mitigating the urban heat island effect. They also improve air quality and provide habitats for wildlife.’

Green roofs create a lush, natural landscape that can be enjoyed from both inside and outside the home. They offer a unique visual appeal and can be designed with a variety of plants, from grasses and succulents to flowers and shrubs, adding a vibrant touch to your home.

7. Sustainable insulation

If you are trying to incorporate eco-friendly practices into your remodel, home improvement expert Tommy Mello suggests you try using sustainable insulation. Sustainable insulation materials include recycled denim, sheep’s wool, cellulose (made from recycled paper), and cork. Once manufactured, these materials can then be treated to be both fire-resistant and pest-resistant.

‘These materials are renewable, biodegradable, and have a lower environmental impact compared to traditional insulation,’ says Tommy. ‘They provide excellent thermal performance, reducing the need for heating and cooling and thus lowering energy consumption.’

Although insulation is typically hidden, choosing sustainable materials enhances the overall health and comfort of your home. It contributes to a more sustainable lifestyle and can be a selling point for eco-conscious buyers.

8. Smart home technology

One way to make your remodel more eco-friendly is to convert it into a smart home. Smart home systems include programmable thermostats, automated lighting, and energy management systems that can be controlled remotely via smartphones or voice assistants. These systems often feature sensors and learning algorithms to optimize energy use.

Smart home technology allows you to monitor and control energy use more effectively, reducing waste and lowering utility bills. Automated systems ensure that lights and appliances are only used when needed, minimizing energy consumption.

These smart home devices, such as these EZVALO Under Cabinet Lights from Amazon, are designed to be sleek and unobtrusive, blending seamlessly with modern interiors. They add a layer of sophistication and convenience, enhancing the overall functionality and aesthetic appeal of your home.

9. Energy star appliances

Lastly, consider choosing energy-efficient appliances.

Appliances certified by the Energy Star program use less energy and water, which decreases utility bills and reduces environmental impact. 

Modern Energy Star appliances feature sleek designs that complement contemporary kitchens and laundry rooms, proving that eco-friendly choices can be both functional and stylish.

FAQs

An eco-friendly remodel should start by maximizing efficiency, and then add renewables and reclaimed materials for maximum impact. Making sustainable choices for your home helps the environment and saves money long-term. Find options that match your home's style so you can feel good about the changes you're making. 

During summer, keeping your space cool, particularly if you don’t have air conditioning, can seem an impossible task. There are many tips and tricks to be found online to beat the heat, but have you ever heard that keeping a bucket of water in a room can help to keep it cool?

If you have been researching how to keep a home cool in a heatwave, you might be wondering how this mysterious method works, or even if it works at all. Spoiler alert: it doesn’t.

From actually creating higher temperatures to increasing humidity, here are the reasons to put away your bucket for good, and what to do instead.

Does keeping a bucket of water in your room keep it cool?

The short answer is, unfortunately, no. ‘While cost-effective, a bucket of water in a room is sadly a myth,’ says Max Veggeberg, CEO and founder of Tetra. But why?

1. The effect is too minimal

In theory, keeping a bucket of water in your room helps to keep it cool as the air absorbs the water from the bucket as it evaporates, reducing the temperature. ‘This may, in the moment, cause an ever-so-slightly cooling effect, but this is typically minimal and not noticeable in larger spaces or over time,’ says Veggeberg.

As the temperature is not perceptibly reduced, it’s best to keep your bucket in the cupboard where it belongs. ‘The difference is negligible in a typical room, and won’t make a noticeable difference in temperature’ says Felicia Wilkes, home climate specialist at A-One Refrigeration & Heating Inc.

2. It will make the space feel more humid

By introducing a bucket of water into your space, you’re also inviting unwanted humidity, which will do the opposite of cooling your home.

‘It shall make the temperature a bit more humid,’ says Yashar Mosaferi, HVAC expert and president of Klondike AC. ‘This gives the impression of higher temperatures and feeling uncomfortable,’ he adds.

What to do instead

As a bucket of water is ineffective and, not to mention, unsightly, there are alternative ways to cool down your home which don’t have to break the bank (or your bucket).

1. Use fans or air-conditioning to control the temperature

A bucket of water might be more cost efficient than buying a fan or installing air conditioning, but, as it doesn’t work, it’s worth the investment elsewhere, particularly during a summer heatwave.

‘Temperature control, like an efficient AC or using a fan, is far more impactful,’ recommends Wilkes.

Fans can be bought on a budget, and once you’ve mastered how to cool a room with fans, you won’t need to battle with your bucket again.

2. Install proper insulation and ventilation

‘The effective ways of cooling include proper insulation and ventilation of the house,’ recommends Mosaferi.

Keep your windows open when the external temperature drops below that of your home, and create a cross breeze to maximize ventilation.

FAQs

How can I cool down my room cheaply?

Other options to reduce heat in your home include covering your windows with awnings or shutters to keep out sun rays and increase shaded areas, or using insulated curtains.

Consider installing a fan in rooms where you often spend time relaxing, such as your living room or bedroom, as a cheaper, more eco-friendly alternative to air conditioning.

How do I heat-proof my bed?

If the heat is affecting your ability to get a good night’s sleep, it might be time to heat-proof your bed.

Options for this include choosing a cooling mattress topper or trying cooling pillowcases. Swapping your winter duvet out for something lighter will also help keep heat at bay, so consider investing in summer bedding.

So, while keeping a bucket of water in a room won't keep it cool, there are plenty of other expert-approved options out there to beat the heat!

Keeping your home cool is essential during the summer months, and it is becoming more and more challenging for many of us. As summers bring ever hotter temperatures to more and more parts of the world, many homeowners are struggling to keep their homes cool even with air conditioning. 

And that’s before we even get to the question of rising energy costs. If you are building a new home, or redesigning or renovating a house, you may be wondering if there are things you can do to help your home stay cool naturally, without needing to run the AC all the time. 

The answer is a resounding 'yes!' From simple yet effective additions to existing homes to smart structural decisions for those embarking on building their own homes, these are the best ways to build or design a home that stays cool. Don’t take our word for it: all of the below advice comes courtesy of professional architects. 

 How to build a home that stays cool 

First, though, you may be wondering whether it’s worth the effort to plan your home design around keeping it cool, given that you probably will have a conventional HVAC system installed anyway. Kaelen Gulbranson, Southern Utah Home Builders Association Board Member and President of luxury custom home building company Cedar Pointe Homes is emphatic that, yes, maximizing your home’s self-cooling potential is well worth the extra planning and effort. 

As Gulbranson explains: 'Even the best HVAC products can become overloaded and can struggle to keep up in extreme summer conditions. To ensure an HVAC system does not become overloaded, home systems can be intentionally planned to work together efficiently to accomplish this.'

An extreme heatwave can wreak havoc on your AC units, but this is much less likely to happen if your home is designed to cope with higher temperatures. Of course, as Alessandro Ronfini, partner at DEMO Architects, points out, the exact approach to keeping a home cool will vary 'depending on the house's location. A hot and humid climate will be different from a hot and dry one.'

Nevertheless, 'some concepts will apply everywhere', and you should build or renovate your home with those guiding principles in mind. 

1. Insulate! 

There’s no way to overstate the importance of good insulation in keeping a home cool. And yet, many homeowners who live in hotter climates don’t think about it as much, because it’s often thought of as primarily a measure that’s important for keeping out cold weather. Alessandro breaks down the importance of insulation with an everyday example: To avoid burning our hands when touching a hot pan, 'we use a towel or an oven glove, which is nothing but insulation.'

As a bare minimum, our experts recommend insulating your roof, walls, and windows, and avoiding 'thermal bridges (ie: structural elements running from inside to outside) is the best way to avoid too much heat from transferring from the exterior to the interior of the house.'

The type of insulation you use matters too. Kaelen Gulbranson recommends opting for thicker insulation than the typical fiberglass options. If you’re building from scratch, build thicker walls. And if you have the budget for it, Gulbranson highly recommends using  ICF (Insulating Concrete Forms) construction as it 'provides excellent insulation from external heat.'

2. Work out your home’s Sun Path

This option is most efficient when you are building a home. Knowing exactly where the sun will hit during the hottest part of the day (typically, between 2 pm and 6 pm) will allow you to build in a way that avoids this exposure. 

Your architect or home builder will use software that can model 'the interaction between the sun and the home during the day and different seasons', says Gulbranson. This information is invaluable for positioning windows: you really don’t want a large west-facing window in an area with brutally hot summers. 

3. Add shading externally

If your home is already there and you do have west-facing windows that are making your home hot, there still are things you can do to reduce the impact. 'Using exterior screens, louvers, and overhangs to create shade is a great way to avoid too much solar heat gain inside a home', says Alessandro Ronfini. Have a patio? Explore patio shade ideas to make it absorb less heat. 

Note that the exterior additions will have much more of an impact than any indoor window treatments. 'Interior curtains do not work as effectively as they bounce radiation once it's already inside the house and most of it will still warm the interior air', cautions Ronfini. You’ll get better results with high-tech blinds specifically designed to repel UV radiation, but it’s still a good idea to try and block direct sunlight on the outside. 

Front porch awnings and screens aren’t the only way to block out the hot sun hitting from the west. Landscaping additions can go a long way here; Gulbranson and Ronfini both recommend adding shade trees to the sunny side of your property. Just make sure the plants you’re choosing can stand the heat. 

4. Focus on enhancing air exchange 

If you’ve ever lived through a heatwave you will know that opening the window to try and cool the house down will make things even worse. In situations where the heat is prolonged and/or extreme, any outside air that gets in without being cooled down first will make your home hotter. 

The solution? Gulbranson summarizes it as 'build tight and ventilate right.' First, you’ll want to make sure that your home isn’t leaking hot outside air in. A blower door test can be performed to check how much outside air is leaking into the home. Then, 'A Zip System® wall sheathing and tape helps keep hot, unfiltered, unconditioned air from entering your home and, if properly installed, can significantly reduce the home’s air leakage.'

Of course, as Alessandro points out, these steps do not mean 'that ventilation, natural or passive, should not be used’’; it’s just that ‘‘we want to make sure that if we introduce air in the house we also think about how to extract it and we can control its humidity.' So, we're looking to improve ventilation not eliminate it, like using this 3D-printed brick to cool your home.

Both of our experts recommend installing ventilation systems like ERV and HRV: these 'mechanically create a controlled airflow and regulate its temperature, providing fresh air and minimum heat gain from the exterior', says Alessandro. Both use a heat exchanger to convert hot outdoor air into cooler indoor air.

5. Rethink exterior materials 

Whether you are building or renovating a house, rethinking the exterior materials you use can make a dramatic difference to how well your home will cope with the heat. Gulbranson recommends focusing on concrete, brick, stone, and stucco as these materials 'slow the transmission of heat from the exterior to the interior of the home.'

If you were thinking about building a wooden home in a hot area, please reconsider. Equally, using wood cladding on an existing property isn't the best option in terms of keeping your home cool.

Roofing materials can also make a huge difference to the cooling ability of your house. 'Lighter color roofing does a better job reflecting heat away from the home. Concrete, slate, or clay tile is effective as they have good thermal insulating qualities.'

Do these heat reduction methods work in any climate? 

These are the steps you can take to build or design a home that stays cool. They are universal and will make a difference in any climate. Having said that, additional measures will depend on your exact location and building requirements and will require a mixture of expertise in building science, technology, and smart home solutions. Kaelen Gulbranson recommends 'working with local experienced professionals when considering how to increase the thermal efficiency of your home.'

Do ERV or HRV systems cost money to run? 

Yes, both ERV and HRV air ventilation systems require electricity to run. However, they are substantially cheaper than traditional air conditioning, because the energy they use is offset by the heat recovered from the exhaust air. 

The better insulated your home, the less your energy expenditure with these systems will be.

Undertaking renovations and repairs without professional help may seem a great way to save money and eliminate the hassle of calling in professional help, however, this can be a big mistake. 

Potential buyers are quick to spot shoddy workmanship and may perceive it as a red flag, affecting their willingness to invest. In addition to this, attempting household projects you shouldn't DIY can inadvertently lower a home's market value, result in non-compliance with local building codes, and pose safety risks.

We talked to real estate agents about the DIY projects that have left homeowners regretting their decision and losing money, so you can avoid making the same errors. 

The DIY projects real estate agents want you to stop doing yourself

'While a DIY project that has been well done could improve your home's marketability, a poorly executed DIY project could also scare off interested buyers or force them to negotiate,' warns Martin Boonzaayer, the CEO of Trusted Home Buyer. 

'Knowing how to do some DIY projects successfully doesn't mean that all projects require DIY skills.' Some DIY jobs would make an excellent weekend project, but in terms of increasing your asking price tag for your house, it might not be a good idea to do certain jobs on your own, including those below.

1. Roof jobs

'Replacing or re-shingling a roof seems easy enough from the ground. But once you are up there, issues like improper underlayment, ventilation mistakes, and poor flashing installation can quickly turn into disastrous leaks and rot that will have inspectors and buyers running for the hills,' warns Richard Mews, real estate agent and CEO of Sell With Richard. 'Roofing is best handled by professionals.'

2. Complex tiling jobs

While it is possible to tile a wall yourself, unless you are very confident in your ability to achieve professional-style results, attempting a DIY approach could be a costly error.

'Tiling requires a high degree of precision,' says Mike Wall, a real estate investor at EZ Sell Homebuyers. 'Poorly executed tiling in bathrooms or kitchens can lead to water damage and visually detract from the space.' 

And that's not all. Improper surface preparation and adhesive application means tiles won't adhere well, resulting in loose tiles. A poorly planned tile layout can lead to awkward cuts, misaligned patterns, and uneven grout lines. Other potential mishaps include poor grouting and a lack of expansion joints. 

Tiles can be a costly investment, but they can also increase the value of your property, so rather than adopting a DIY approach at the most essential stage, the installation of tiles, it's best to let professionals execute your tile ideas.

3. Basement finishing

'Turning that unfinished basement into usable living space seems straightforward, however, between properly waterproofing, installing egress windows, and running new electrical and HVAC – there are a million ways an amateur basement renovation can go off the rails,' warns Richard Mews. 'This can lead to moisture issues, code violations, and value-killing fixes down the road.'

For example, Jonathan Faccone, founder of Halo Homebuyers says: 'I think DIY basement waterproofing projects may provide temporary solutions but can fail to address underlying moisture issues and structural vulnerabilities. Inadequate waterproofing measures can result in basement flooding, mold growth, and foundation damage, compromising the habitability and value of your home.'

Due to the locations, positioned below ground, basements often require more extensive and specific measures than other spaces in the home, so to ensure they are properly waterproofed, ventilated, and insulted, consult a professional to prevent damage to your basement.

4. Exterior modifications and landscaping

Exterior modifications such as landscaping can significantly enhance curb appeal, yet poorly thought-out designs can deter potential buyers.

Michael Kootchick, real estate developer and leader at OneStop ADU says: 'Exterior modifications such as DIY decking or landscaping undertaken without proper foundation and drainage considerations can lead to significant issues. Poorly executed outdoor projects can lead to problems like water damage to the property’s foundation or suboptimal curb appeal, both of which play crucial roles in the valuation of a property. 

'DIY driveway paving projects may result in uneven surfaces, inadequate drainage, and premature deterioration, detracting from your home's curb appeal and overall aesthetic,' adds Alex Locklear, realtor and the founder of NC Cash Homebuyers. 

'It's important to hire a professional contractor who has the knowledge and resources to properly prepare the area, use high-quality materials, and ensure proper installation for a long-lasting and visually appealing driveway design.' 

Ensuring that such projects meet professional standards not only boosts aesthetic appeal but also secures the functional integrity of the property, safeguarding your investment.

5. DIY bathroom remodelling

Like with basements, DIY bathroom remodels are not a great idea unless you have professional grade knowledge, skills, and tools, since they are more complex than putting together flatpack furniture – they require complex installations.

The improper installation of water lines resulted in a severe leakage that compromised the integrity of the bathroom's structure. Going down this route may leave you having to not only redo the plumbing work but also address water damage and mold issues. These remediation expenses may double your initial remodel budget expectations, rather than cutting costs, plus it will make your home more unattractive to homebuyers.

6. Electrical work

'Dealing with a few light fixtures or outlet swaps is manageable for keen DIYers. But any major electrical work like upgrading panels, running new wiring through walls, or anything that could create fire risks is best left to licensed electricians who can ensure your home is safely up to code,' says Richard Mews.

Playing with wiring is a bad idea. It's bad for you, and bad for your pocketbook. Faulty electrical work is a major turnoff to buyers and could result in substantial repairs before you close. Leave wiring to the pros.

7. Exterior insulation

When it comes to re-insulating, installing new house wrap moisture barriers, or re-siding your home's exterior, cutting corners leads to moisture intrusion nightmares. From rot and mold to complete system failures, improper installation negates any resale value you hoped to gain with these cosmetic upgrades.

'Inexperienced DIYers often overlook the importance of proper permitting and adherence to building codes,' says Brett Johnson, real estate agent and owner of New Era Home Buyers. Without the proper permits, you risk facing fines, having to redo the work to meet code standards, and potentially even lowering your home's value if the work is subpar or not up to code.

As energy costs continue to rise, finding ways to make homes more energy-efficient has become increasingly important. One of the most effective ways to achieve this is by improving the Energy Performance Certificate (EPC) rating of your home, leading to significant savings on your energy bills.

An EPC rating measures a building's energy efficiency, rated on a scale from A to G, with A being the most energy-efficient and G being the least. This rating is based on factors such as insulation, heating systems, lighting, and renewable energy resources.

Implementing practical strategies to boost your home's EPC rating can cut energy bills and transform your property into an eco house. Whether with large or small changes, from adopting sustainable home renovation tips to choosing eco-friendly gadgets to be more sustainable at home, optimizing your home's energy efficiency not only reduces your environmental impact but also ensures long-term savings on utility bills and future-proofs your home.

How to improve your EPC rating and reduce energy costs 

The best tactics for improving energy efficiency will depend on the property. 

'Tailoring your approach to your home includes what is suitable for the property type (for example, solar panels can’t be installed for one flat in a block) and considering what preparatory work should be done before buying expensive energy-efficiency measures,' explains Kira Wolfe, digital operations manager at Easy EPC.

'For example, air source heat pumps are considered energy efficient, but these will not work effectively if there isn’t sufficient insulation in the home. Alternatively, installing a lot of insulation in a property without good ventilation can cause or exacerbate damp and mold problems.'

So, the first step should be to assess your current EPC rating. Obtain a copy of your home's EPC report to understand its current energy efficiency rating. This document provides valuable insights into areas where improvements can be made to enhance your home's performance and reduce energy consumption.

Then, consider which of these methods below you can incorporate to effectively make your home more energy efficient and reduce energy bills.

1. Install renewable energy sources

The most impactful way to increase your property’s EPC rating involves investing in renewable energy solutions. These often involve a high upfront cost but can significantly decrease energy consumption, reducing bills and paying for themselves long-term. 

Solar panels, for instance, can significantly increase your EPC rating, reducing reliance on the grid and lowering electricity bills (potentially by 50-70% depending on your location and the system's capacity), and potentially even earning you money back through feed-in tariffs if you generate excess power.

'Another significant impact on EPC rating comes from installing solar energy storage systems,' adds Robert Raffa, President and Owner of Sunergy Solutions LLC. 'These systems absorb and store excess solar energy during daylight and make it available for use at night or during peak tariff times, which directly reduces energy costs.' 

'Moreover, such installations are becoming more affordable and are a practical solution for many homeowners looking to improve their home's EPC rating and reduce energy bills substantially.'

2. Install heating controls

Heating controls, such as smart thermostats or energy-efficient appliances, can make it easier to manage your heating types efficiently, contributing to a better EPC rating for your property and lowering energy bills. They allow you to schedule your heating to run only when needed and can learn your schedule and adjust heating accordingly, reducing wasted energy. 

Additionally, appliances controlled by smart electric meters or home energy management systems can adjust their operations according to your usage patterns or energy demand to reduce unnecessary energy consumption. For example, your dishwasher can be scheduled to operate when electricity rates and demand are lower.

3. Improve insulation

Improving insulation is one of the most effective methods to enhance your home's EPC rating. Insulation is a key aspect of EPC assessment, as insulating your walls, attic, floors and hot water cylinder can help to trap heat in your home and reduce the need to crank up the heating. Checking and upgrading insulation in these key areas can improve heat retention by up to 25%, contributing to a more energy-efficient home overall.

Upgrading your insulation is not just beneficial for eco-heating purposes, it also means your home stays cooler in summer, reducing reliance on heating and cooling systems, and leading to lower energy consumption. 

Be sure to seal all cracks and gaps around windows and doors as part of this process. DIY draft-proofing is one of the cheapest and most effective ways to save energy and enhance the comfort of your home. This can improve overall energy efficiency by 5-10%, helping to maintain desired temperatures with less energy.

4. Energy efficient roofing

Energy-efficient roof materials can play a significant role in lowering your home's EPC rating. By choosing eco-friendly building materials designed to reduce heat absorption and minimize heat transfer, you can improve the overall energy efficiency of your home.

For instance, cool roof materials, such as reflective coatings or light-colored singles, can help reduce the amount of heat absorbed by the roof, thereby lowering the demand for air conditioning during warmer months. This results in less energy consumption for cooling, leading to a higher EPC rating and lower energy bills.

'One key option is metal roofing,' says Ben Connell, owner of Connell Roofing. 'Metal's durability also means reduced maintenance and replacement costs, which adds long-term value.

'Another effective approach includes the installation of Cool Roofs. Made with materials that reflect more sunlight, these roofs absorb less heat, significantly lowering a building's temperature.

'Lastly, Insulated Roofing Systems are invaluable for both warmth retention during winters and keeping homes cool in the summer. Implementing such systems on flat and pitched roofs has helped our clients slash heating costs by a substantial margin during colder months and similarly reduce air conditioning needs when it's warmer.'

5. Upgrade windows

'Around 18% of your home’s heat is lost through your windows, and heat is lost twice as fast if windows are single-glazed,' warns Jon Bonnar, Managing Director at Cotswold Energy. 

Replacing single-glazed windows with double or triple-glazed options can significantly improve thermal efficiency, meaning less heat will escape and allow you to keep your home warmer whilst using less energy. The more glazing your windows have, the higher your EPC rating will be.

'Look for windows with low-emissivity (low-E) glass and inert gas (like argon) fills between panes, which provide better insulation by reducing the amount of infrared and ultraviolet light that enters your home without minimizing the amount of light,' explains Josh Mitchell. 

'Upgrading to energy-efficient windows can improve your home’s energy efficiency by around 10-15%.' 

6. Consider ventilation and air quality

'Good ventilation helps control moisture and reduce the need for air conditioning, which can improve your EPC rating,' says HVAC technician, Josh Mitchell. 'Consider installing ventilation systems that don't compromise your home's thermal envelope, like heat recovery ventilators. Efficient ventilation systems, particularly those with heat recovery capabilities, can reduce the need to use heating systems by about 10-20%.'

Al Fouz at Abaco Air Experts also emphasizes the importance of HVAC updates to improve their home's EPC rating while enjoying decreased operational costs:

'One pivotal element involves the installation of high SEER-rated HVAC units. For instance, modern HVAC systems we've implemented with SEER ratings of 14 or above have helped homeowners cut their energy expenses by as much as 40%. This is primarily due to the units' enhanced efficiency compared to older, lower SEER-rated models.

'Another technique we focus on is the integration of variable speed compressors in these high-efficiency HVAC systems. These compressors adjust their speed to precisely meet the heating or cooling demands of the home, reducing unnecessary energy consumption. This not only stabilizes indoor temperatures but also diminishes overall energy usage, directly contributing to a higher EPC rating.

'Upgrading to newer, energy-efficient HVAC systems not only slashes monthly energy bills but also contributes to environmental benefits. Such systems utilize less electricity, which in turn reduces the dependency on fossil fuels, hence lowering greenhouse gas emissions. This sustainable approach not only aligns with increased efficiency standards but also enhances the overall marketability and comfort of the residence.'

Additionally, regularly engaging in some simple appliance maintenance tasks to lower your energy bills such as cleaning your HVAC system or getting it serviced can make it more energy efficient, lowering energy bills.

7. Switch to LED Lighting

Replace older incandescent and halogen bulbs with LED bulbs, which use up to 90% less energy and last much longer. This simple change can have a significant impact on your home's energy consumption. We recommend these DEGNJU LED bulbs from Amazon.

Improving your home’s EPC rating not only reduces your energy bills but also increases the value of your property. While some improvements may require upfront investment, the cost savings on energy bills can quickly offset these initial expenses.

If I trust anyone to make a good kettle, it's KitchenAid. Best known for making iconic stand mixers, the brand also produces some substantial kitchen essentials. This simple KitchenAid kettle is crafted from understated stainless steel, but it offers precision temperature variability, a steady pour, and a compact design.

Alongside a team of experts, I've been testing the best electric kettles on the market. I have one of KitchenAid’s other kettles in my kitchen, so I was keen to see how their more affordable option compared to mine. 

This retails at under $100 which is a steal if you want the KitchenAid name on your countertops. I tested this across a range of temperatures, brewing matcha, coffee, and different teas, so that I could see how accurate it was. I also tested the insulating properties, checking whether your water would still be warm if you brewed the kettle and came back to it more than a few minutes later.

Specifications

Unboxing

Unboxing the KitchenAid was easy. Kettles are rarely complex to set up, so I didn’t expect to struggle. Most of the packaging was cardboard, which is easy to recycle. There was some plastic coating, which is harder to recycle, but it meant that the kettle arrived in pristine condition.

From the pictures that I’d seen, I didn’t know whether the KitchenAid would feel like a super slick, premium kettle, or a somewhat overpriced basic. You’ll be pleased to know that it was the former. This is slim, with a brushed stainless steel finish. It's available in other signature KitchenAid colors, but I tested it in this understated style.

Overall, it feels like a well-made kettle. This boasts some substantial weight, but not so much that it feels heavy.

Who would it suit?

This is certainly one of KitchenAid’s basics. It retails around $100, which is cheap for a temperature variable kettle and an absolute steal for any appliance with the name 'KitchenAid' printed on it. You can choose from a range of color options and, you'll also be pleased to know that KitchenAid makes a coordinating toaster that matches the kettles aesthetic.

The KitchenAid is understated and simple, not for the likes of any ultra-glossy kitchen. However, it’s a great basic if you’re setting up a kitchen and just want a functional, reliable kettle.

The variable temperatures add an extra edge that makes the KitchenAid a good choice for those who like to drink matcha and tea. You can select fifty-degree increments, achieving hot water perfection. 

What is it like to use?

I tested all the temperatures on just one cup of water as well as the full 6.3 cup capacity. The lowest temperature on the KitchenAid’s settings is 122 degrees, perfect for mixing with yeast when baking. The KitchenAid heated one cup up to temperature in just 19 seconds, it was seriously speedy. 

At full capacity, it took a little longer, two minutes and twenty-three seconds. For this kind of capacity, that's not a slow boil. It’s about average actually, although it certainly felt slow to me. I'd recommend filling the kettle, setting it to boil, and then doing a task such as washing up.

Even though the exterior is stainless steel, it didn’t get hot, promising some great insulation. When both my single cup and full kettle boiled, I took their temperatures. They were spot on, if not a couple of degrees above on some of the tests. Most of them sat around the perfect temperature.

I checked back after one minute, two minutes, three minutes, four minutes, five minutes, and ten minutes, to see how well the kettle was keeping my coffee hot. The single serving had cooled by 30 degrees within one minute, 54 degrees within two, and it just kept getting cooler. After five minutes, it was too cool to class as even close to the temperature. The fuller carafe was slower to cool, but I still couldn’t use it after five minutes. 

75 degrees

If you like to drink matcha and white tea, you'll want your kettle to be precise when it's set to 176 degrees. I like to drink my matcha a little more mellow, so set the kettle to reach 158 degrees. The KitchenAid consistently overshot it, hitting 165 consistently. This didn't affect the flavors of my matcha much, so if you didn't have a temperature probe, you probably wouldn't notice it. However, in our tests, it came up as an issue.

If you're making coffee, which can be really sensitive to temperature changes, set the temperature to about 10 degrees lower than you want, so that you don't end up scalding your coffee grounds.

When I was aiming for 176 degrees, I set the temperature to 165. When I took the temperature of both my single cup serving and full kettle, they were close to spot on for 170 degrees. This is perfect for brewing with green teas and more delicate leaves. It's a knack that, once you've grown accustomed to, is easy to adjust for.

The hottest setting on the KitctchenAid is, of course, 212. My kettle boiled one cup to full temperature in just 34 seconds, which is almost as quick as the coolest setting. It took four minutes and fifty-two seconds to boil a full carafe. Some kettles can take up to eight minutes, so although this might sound like a long time, it's actually pretty speedy.

The kettle did a good job of keeping my boiling water close to a high temperature, across capacities. It was still usable for ‘boiling’ after my four-minute check. At five, it was on the edge, and by ten, it needed a quick re-boil to hit temperature. 

Cleaning, storage, and maintenance

Relative to the 6.3 cup capacity, this is a compact kettle. It’s easy to keep on the countertop and would look great in a kitchen with other stainless steel appliances. The finish didn’t mark with fingerprints, so it’s low maintenance and an easy kettle to put in a home where lots of people will use it. I could imagine this being a great kettle for a second home. 

I have a few notes for cleaning the KitchenAid, although these apply to all kettles. Make sure to use filtered water. Not only will this give you consistent flavors, it will also stop any scale from building up around the heating elements. If you don't use filtered water, it's worth learning how to clean an electric kettle for safe, hygienic boiling.

How does it rate online?

The KitchenAid is a popular kettle online. It's a relatively new addition to KitchenAid's collection and the small amount of reviews that are available online praise this highly. People like the simple aesthetic and speedy boiling times. I think the price had a big influence on people's perceptions of the KitchenAid too, as a number of the reviews had a slightly surprised tone when they were praising it.

There's very little criticism online. Some people found scale building up inside their kettle, but that's not really an issue with the KitchenAid, more with the user. Others questioned the time that it takes to boil, but the average time a full kettle can take is up to eight minutes. Given that this can be done in just four, it's super speedy. 

I was ready to agree with criticisms of functional aesthetics, but there weren't any. After scouring through the reviews, the KitchenAid comes off really well.

How does it compare?

I can’t help but compare this to KitchenAid’s Pro Line kettle. Of course, the Pro Line is more expensive and it can technically do the same, without any extra flourishes, but my oh my is it a looker. I have it in almond cream (to match my toaster) and it’s beautiful. However, the basic KitchenAid is half the price. Whilst you'll have a more practical-looking kettle, you can tuck $100 neatly aside to invest in other more fancy kitchen appliances. 

I wanted to compare a similar style kettle to this one and the Aarke immediately sprung to mind. The Aarke has a similar, stainless steel aesthetic and offers variable temperatures, but it’ll cost you a lot more money. It doesn't offer any more capacity or variety in the temperature settings and it'll cost you two and a half times the price. Compared to both of these highly covetable kettles, the KitchenAid is incredible value.

Should you buy it?

If you want a simple, inexpensive kettle that doesn’t compromise on quality, this is a great option. It is quick to brew, low maintenance, and can achieve accurate, variable temperatures. If you’re after something that’s more blessed in the looks department, I recommend giving the Pro Line kettle a try. It’s more expensive, but I know I’ll be keeping mine for life. 

How we test

We're stringent with our testing standards at H&G, and while electric kettles might seem straightforward, we don't let standards slip. We test our kettles at the minimum fill level and the maximum fill level. We record any variation in temperature from the claims of the manufacturer and what we actually find on our thermometers, and we also time how long it takes. We also record the noise level in decibels of kettles as they come to a boil. That's to say nothing of all our user tests, assessing how easy the kettle is to use, clean, maintain, and store. There's more information about our processes in our explainer of how we test. 

When you're a lover of indoor plants like me, you take pride in your houseplant display and a big part of how you style your style houseplants is choosing which containers to home them in.

There's a lot to be said about terracotta planters - their breathable nature have made them a reliable staple in container gardening. But have you ever considered using them indoors? It previously never crossed my mind to use terracotta indoor planters, purely for the fact I didn't think it would fit in with my interior aesthetic, but those dark orange hues actually add a rustic charm. After realising how beneficial terracotta pots are to houseplants, I'll never look back.

I've gathered expert advice to find out more about why terracotta indoor planters are beneficial to the health of our houseplants - plus the best terracotta indoor planters on the market.

Why use terracotta indoor pots?

Terracotta pots have long been loved by gardeners for their breathable nature. While they have always been in popularity for outdoor patios and container gardens, not as many plant lovers opt for them indoors. I've spoken to experts to find out why we should be using terracotta indoor planters for happy and healthy houseplants.

Better water drainage

One of the main reasons terracotta planters are used is because they help monitor moisture levels and water houseplants correctly.

'Houseplants can do well in terracotta pots,' says Sally Allsop, founder of All That Grows. 'Terracotta pots reduce the risk of overwatering your plants as they allow excess moisture to evaporate through the walls of the pot. This can help reduce the risk of houseplant root rot and fungal diseases,' she adds. 

This is one of the main reasons I decided to try terracotta indoor planters. It's really easy to overwater houseplants, in fact its one of the most common indoor plant mistakes. I found that my plants that were previously holding onto too much moisture in soil were now drying out in a terracotta planter.

Terracotta is efficient at managing water levels of plants because it is made from a porous clay which allows moisture to be released more easily than a pot made from plastic, for example, which may lock moisture in. 

This also makes terracotta indoor planters a great option for watering plants while on vacation because it will ensure your plants soak up as much moisture they need and don't sit in waterlogged soil. 

'The porous nature of terracotta also allows for better aeration, ensuring that plant roots receive sufficient oxygen for healthy growth,' says Sally.

Better insulation

If you have an indoor herb garden, want to propagate the easiest houseplants to grow from cuttings or plan to sow seeds indoors, terracotta indoor planters can help promote growth.

'Terracotta pots naturally insulate plant roots from extreme temperatures,' says Sally. 'Outdoors they keep roots cooler in hot weather and warmer in colder climates,' she adds.

'This is less of an issue for indoor plants, but even so, they can suffer from cold and warm temperatures depending on where they are kept in the home,' she says.

I found that my propagation cuttings benefited hugely by growing in terracotta pots a warm, sunny windowsill. The warmth was retained by the pots, providing optimal conditions for cuttings to root. Seeds sown indoors will likewise appreciate the insulation and germination will be encouraged.

Overall, I have found that terracotta indoor planters have qualities that make it easier to manage the health of houseplants. 

Best terracotta indoor pots

Not only are terracotta indoor planters beneficial for the care and health of your houseplants, they are also beautiful additions to your home. There are so many terracotta indoor planters available, in many shapes, sizes and patterns to fulfil different aesthetics and needs of plants. Here are our top picks.

FAQs

Which houseplants can go in terracotta pots?

Terracotta indoor planters are great for houseplants. They are extremely breathable and allow soil to drain well. Most houseplants will do well in terracotta plants, especially those that don't like sitting in waterlogged soil. This includes calatheas, orchids and monsteras to name a few. Although, you should avoid placing plants that enjoy consistently moist soil in terracotta planters as they may dry out too quickly, such as ferns.

Once you realise how beneficial terracotta indoor planters are to your houseplants, it can change the way you look after your indoor garden. If you enjoy using terracotta planters in your backyard, take care to keep on top of cleaning your terracotta pots to keep them fresh and prevent harmful bacteria entering the porous material.

Have you got a crawl space? If you have, is it insulated? A crawl space with no insulation is going to cause issues in your home, but they can go away with the right insulation installed.

Without proper insulation, condensation will form under your home which will eventually lead to dampness and mold taking hold, as well as structural problems and higher heating bills. Adding insulation will go a long way to reducing condensation, saving you from expensive repairs, and making your home more energy efficient, again cutting energy bills.

Here, two experts reveal why you need to insulate a crawl space, what materials you’ll need, and how to do it. 

Why is it important to insulate a crawl space?

'Insulating a crawl space is a critical aspect of maintaining a healthy, energy-efficient home,' declares John Parks, the COO at Advanced Insulation System whose company provides state-of-the-art insulation solutions.

But why? A crawl space is the space under the first floor of your home. The floor is typically one to three feet above the ground which is often a simple dirt floor or covered in gravel with uninsulated walls. This can lead to issues twelve months of the year if not dealt with properly. 

During the warmer months, warm air will get into a cold crawl space causing condensation and during the colder months, cold air will fill the crawl space leading to a colder less energy-efficient home and higher heating bills.  So adding insulation is one step on how to keep a home warm.

But the lack of insulation is often found in older homes as Jamin Katzer, Senior Construction Manager at Earth Saving Solutions explains: 'Code enforcement now requires any concrete or exterior wall to be insulated. If for any reason the house was built before this code requirement, one way to know if the crawl space needs to be insulated would be to check if there is any insulation present.' 

Installing the right insulation will reduce the risk of problems occurring and causing long-term issues in your home, but Katzer warns, 'It is always best to consult with a local contractor, as regions of the US have different requirements and conditions that will need to be met for insulation and moisture barrier applications.'

How can you tell if your crawl space requires insulation?

Your crawl space may not have any insulation, or old insulation that isn’t working as effectively as it should and needs replacing. Parks reveals the signs indicating a crawl space needs insulation.  

Dampness or Moisture 
If you notice water pooling or consistent dampness, it’s a sign that your crawl space is exposed to external moisture, which insulation can help mitigate. 

Mold or Mildew Growth 

The presence of mold or mildew indicates excess moisture and inadequate insulation. Proper insulation and vapor barriers can significantly reduce this risk. 

Cold Floors Above the Crawl Space 

If the floors above feel unusually cold, especially in winter, it's likely due to insufficient insulation in the crawl space below. 

Increased Heating and Cooling Bills 

Unexplained spikes in your energy bills can often be traced back to inadequate insulation, allowing heat to escape in the winter and enter in the summer. 

What are the best materials/types of insulation for a crawl space?

There are options when it comes to insulating a crawl space, each with its own pros and cons. Choosing the right insulation for your crawl space is pivotal to its effectiveness. John Parks recommends the following materials:

Closed-Cell Spray Foam Insulation 

This type of insulation offers excellent moisture resistance and a high R-value per inch, making it ideal for crawl spaces that require a vapor barrier and insulation in one. 

Rigid Foam Board 

Provides a moisture-resistant solution that can be cut to fit snugly against foundation walls. It's effective for insulating both the walls and floor of a crawl space. 

Fiberglass Batts 

While not always the first choice due to moisture concerns, fiberglass insulation can be suitable in crawl spaces with proper vapor barriers and, when installed correctly, avoid sagging and moisture accumulation. 

Mineral Wool (Rockwool) 

Known for its fire resistance and moisture repellency, mineral wool is another excellent option for crawl space insulation, providing both thermal and acoustic benefits. 

What are insulation R-values?

When installing insulation R values are an indicator of how good the insulation is, the higher the R value the better. But it can differ in different states as Jamin Katzer explains: 

'In Colorado (where Earth Saving Solutions are based) we are required to use R-11 or more for walls and R-13 for ceilings.' He suggests contacting a local general contractor for help if unsure. 

'Adding a rolled R-11 Owens Corning insulation on the walls of a basement is recommended,' Katzer continues. 'This is the easiest to attach and it keeps continuous protection. This needs to be 4" above the floor if it is dirt, to prevent deterioration.”

For ceilings, he suggests, 'Adding batt R-13 Owens Corning to the ceiling with added straps to prevent it from falling out will help keep the floor in your home at a more consistent temperature. And it will also help with some sound dampening.'

Adding a moisture barrier on the floor is also recommended. 

3 tips for insulating a crawl space

'Insulating a crawl space can be challenging since there is not a simple way to attach to concrete walls and/or keep them in the ceiling bays,' explains Katzer. But with the right tools and some pro-know-how, it's not as hard as you might think:  

1. Use a ram-set gun to install insulation on concrete walls, keeping the insulation 4" above the grade or dirt is ideal.  

2.  For ceilings, add a twine or strap every 12" that goes the opposite direction of your joists will help hold the insulation into the ceiling bays.

3. Adding a moisture barrier may be an option, but can be hard with plumbing, electrical, and venting being in the way. 

How much does it typically cost to insulate a crawl space?

There are a few factors at play when it comes to insulating a crawl space, which will see costs fluctuate, but as a general guideline expect to pay around $3500 for a contractor to do the job on a 1000 sq ft crawl space. The size of your crawl space will obviously make a difference. A larger/smaller space means more/less materials and time to fit.

Materials also play a big part in the overall cost with rigid foam board and batt and roll fiberglass being the low-cost options. Again prices vary depending on brand, but if you’re good at DIY you can install yourself to save a few dollars. 

Spray foam is typically the most expensive and you will need to get a contractor to install it. Check with a few local contractors to see what you can expect to pay in your area.  

Adding insulation to any part of your home helps make it a more comfortable place to live. Check out our guides on How to insulate pipes and How much does it cost to insulate an attic to make your home more energy efficient.  

Is it time to say goodbye to your old garage door? If yours is starting to look tired and struggling to open and close, now is the time to think about garage door replacement costs.

There is the option to smarten it up with a new lick of paint, stain, varnish, or some smart garage ideas, so you don’t have to spend big. And If it's a mechanical problem you can try and fix it yourself.

But, it might finally be time to get rid of the old and welcome in the new to add some much-needed curb appeal and security to your home.

Garage door replacement costs 

When it comes to replacing a garage door you need to know what you can get for your budget and what effects costs. You can expect to pay from $500-$5000 for a door, but if you want something special you can pay a lot more. Then you have to factor in labor costs if not doing it yourself. Here we look at the factors that define costs and get experts to reveal their money-saving tips. 

What factors will influence garage door costs?

When it comes to garage doors, there are a number of physical factors that will make a difference in the cost. Here Kara Watkins, residential garage door product manager at Clopay, reveals what determines cost: 

1. Size of garage door: Do you have a one-car garage, two-car garage, or even larger? The larger a garage door you need the more you should expect to pay for it.  

2. Garage door material: What material is your new garage door going to be constructed from? Steel? Composite? Wood? Aluminum? Different materials command different prices, with steel typically being the cheapest and wood commonly the most expensive. 

3. Type of finish: The type of finish can affect the cost. Standard paint or standard stain keeps the costs down, But choose a custom color or specialty finish and the cost will go up. 

4. Decorative door options: Standard doors with standard hardware and no windows will commonly be the base model in a range, meaning they will be the least expensive. Add in extras such as windows and specialist finishes and this will add hundreds of dollars to the cost of the door. 

What additional factors can increase costs?

The cost of a garage door is just one component of the cost. Other factors will add to the overall cost, which we look at here:

Labor costs vs DIY

DIY will be the cheaper option when replacing a garage door but is it a good choice? There’s a lot of heavy lifting and it's not a one-person job, so you will need the help of a buddy. Plus you need the right tools and the know-how. If you have never fitted a garage door before we suggest you look to hire a professional.

Manual or automatic garage door

An automatic garage door offers increased safety and convenience, but it will add to the overall cost. Converting a manual door to an automatic door will start at around $200 with a door opener like this Chamberlain MYQ Smart Garage Door Opener from Amazon, which offers smartphone control. 

But, the cost can easily surpass $1000 depending on the size of the door, the quality and complexity of components, and whether you are installing it yourself or getting a pro to do it. Plus, do you need electricity to run into your garage to power the opener? If you do, expect to pay at least $50 an hour, but this will vary depending on location and region.  

Garage door removal costs 

When fitting a new garage door, the old door needs to be removed and dispensed with. If you choose to remove it yourself it will only cost you your time and any tools you might need to purchase. But removing a garage door isn’t a simple task, so you might want to consider getting a professional in. 

The company/contractor fitting a garage door often includes this service in the overall cost. But if not expect to pay from $50-$200 depending on size and complexity.

5 expert money saving tips when replacing a garage door

Everyone likes to save a few dollars and we get experts to give us their top tips 

1. Keep it simple 

'Taking simple designs and cheaper materials can save many costs when changing a garage door,' suggests Artem Kropovinsky, Founder of Arsight. 'It is a matter of striking that balance between the look and the means.'

Watkins from Clopay adds: 'Decorative options like windows and specialty finishes will add a few hundred dollars to the cost of the door.'

2. Stick to steel  

'Steel is the most economical material with the widest range of construction options and insulation types,' explains Watkins. 'It is low-maintenance and durable and comes in a variety of styles ranging from traditional to carriage house or modern that will enhance curb appeal.'

3. Save on insulation 

'Polystyrene insulation is less expensive than polyurethane foam insulation,' reveals Watkins. 'Both types improve the comfort of the garage year-round and improve the strength and durability of the door. Polyurethane has the highest R-values (most energy-efficient), but Polystyrene doors have good R-values as well.'

4. Check current garage door hardware 

One way to save money is to consider keeping parts that are still useful as Watkins explains: 'The garage door opener is a separate component from the door mechanism so if you don't need to replace it, that will save money.' But there are some parts that you shouldn't reuse. 'Never reuse old track, hardware, or springs. They are designed to balance the weight of the specific door panels. Doing so can damage the door and affect operation.'

5. Get quotes and look for sales 

'Manufacturers, retailers, and dealers often have periodic sales and rebates during slow seasons - December to March,' explains Watkins. 'So buy off peak if you have a choice.'

But if you do need to buy a garage door outside the slow months, shop around, suggests Kropovinsky, 'Getting a few quotes from different suppliers and installers is a very smart tactic. It makes sure that you are getting a competitive price.'

FAQs

Is it cheaper to repair a garage door than to replace one?  

This will depend on what type of damage that your garage has. If it's superficial damage such as scratches, dents, flaking paint, or minor cracks then it will be worth repairing and in most cases a job you can do yourself.

But, if you need to start buying replacement parts and getting these fitted by a professional contractor you will need to add up these costs and weigh them up against the cost of getting a new garage door installed.

If the cost to repair your garage door is $1500, and you can get a new replacement for $2000 then you seriously need to think about making the change, especially if the door is over 10 years old. 

How often should a garage door be replaced?

'Doors last 20 - 30 years if they are maintained,' explains Watkins. So if you have a well-maintained door that is 15 years old then there is no need to replace it. 

But if you have a 15-year-old that has been poorly maintained, it might be time to replace it or at best give it a good refurbishment, as an ugly door is unappealing. Watkins continues: 'A poorly maintained door will have a significant impact on a home's curb appeal. It pays to invest in a door that fits your home styl, won't dent easily, and will keep the garage secure and comfortable.' 

Fitting a new garage door is the perfect time to organize your garage and get the most out of this space. Invest in garage shelving and take this opportunity to sweep and clean your garage floors. 

Knowing how to ventilate an attic is expertise any owner of a house should have – surprising as that might seem. But both insulation and adequate ventilation are crucial for an energy-efficient and sturdy home.

Good attic ventilation is a must for attic safety, preventing unhealthy mold growth, avoiding the buildup of heat in summer, and reducing the ice damming that can damage a roof in the winter months.

Here, we’ve put together all the know-how that’s required on attic ventilation to keep your home in good structural condition and your energy bills down.

How to ventilate an attic

Attic ventilation lets in cold air from outside your home in winter and moves hot air out of the attic during summer. It can seem counterintuitive to let air in, but there are sound reasons why we recommend this attic door natural ventilation tip, which we’ll expand on below.

Be mindful that there isn’t one rule for all attics. ‘Generally speaking, an attic needs ventilation only when the insulation is sitting on the attic floor and not necessarily when the insulation is installed between the rafters,’ explains Alessandro Ronfini, partner and Founder of DEMO Architects. 

Not sure if your attic needs ventilation? ‘If the insulation is over your head, you probably need a different solution,’ advises Alessandro. ‘Talk to a professional to figure out the best path forward.’

Intake and exhaust

'Typically, an attic should have two types of vent - intake vents and exhaust vents,’ explains John Parks, co-owner and COO of Advanced Insulation System.

‘Intake vents are placed lower down, typically in the eaves of your attic, and otherwise known as soffit vents. This pulls cooler air into the attic space. Exhaust vents are positioned higher up, near the peak or ridge cap, to allow hot and humid air to escape through the top.’

Vent design

Vents are typically not complicated structures. ‘Most attics can be sufficiently ventilated with passive vents, meaning simple perforations with a grille,’ says Alessandro Ronfini.

‘Vents should be installed on walls on opposite sides of the building to create cross ventilation,’ he explains. ‘Vents installed only on one side do not allow sufficient airflow.’

If an attic needs vents, DIY installation is possible, but get advice first. ‘You should contact a professional first to inspect and offer their recommendation,’ says John Parks. ‘Simply adding vents is not always the answer. 

‘However, installing vents is not the hardest thing to do if you’re familiar with cutting into roofing or framing, installing flashing, etc,’ he adds. But bear in mind that possessing sufficient skills is vital. ‘There are risks of improper installations, which could cause roof leaks and lead to worse damage,’ says John.

Active vents and attic fans

Passive vents aren’t always enough for an attic. ‘In some climates and areas where wind is scarce (like in cities where there are many obstacles to air flow), an active vent with a fan to pull air in and out of a building might be a better fit,’ says Alessandro Ronfini.

‘Fans should always work in tandem with another fan spinning in the opposite direction or a vent. This guarantees that the air they move is exterior air and is not the conditioned air within your building.’

‘Attic fans are a great way to force air and/or increase ventilation,’ agrees John Parks. ‘One popular way to do this would be using an attic gable fan. These are installed into the gable vent on either side of the house and tied into the electrical. They’re often controlled by a thermostat, which kicks itself on when a higher temperature is detected. They can also be connected to humidistats that detect higher levels of humidity.

‘Another popular fan is known as the whole house fan,’ he continues. ‘These are for cooling the house and attic. These work by pulling air from the outside through the home and exhaust into the attic. When the air exhausts into the attic it helps to bring down the temperature of the attic space.’

Vent maintenance

Vents need to be maintained so they can continue to fulfill their purpose. ‘Vents pull in air, but also leaves, bugs, and debris, so it’s a good habit to check that they are clean so that nothing reduces the airflow,’ explains Alessandro Ronfini. ‘Spring and fall are when they are more likely to get dirty, so a seasonal check is absolutely worth it.’

Reasons for attic ventilation

We’ve noted how to ventilate an attic, but why is it important? 

‘Many single-family houses in the US have a ventilated attic immediately below the roof,’ explains Alessandro Ronfini. ‘Ventilating such an attic is important because to keep that interior space clear of condensation, the interior air should be relatively close to the exterior temperature and remain as dry as possible.

‘In the summer, in hot climates in particular, ventilation avoids the greenhouse effect in the attic, which might cause the interior air temperature to rise well above the exterior temperature, with detrimental effects on the efficiency of your air conditioner.

‘Insufficient and vapor-permeable insulation can cause humidity to escape from your house and turn to condensation on the underside of your roof. Conversely, vapor-impermeable insulation might trap humidity and not allow for surfaces to dry properly, thus leading to mold.’

Attic ventilation can also reduce the threat of ice damming when snow melts from the roof but refreezes at the gutters. This can damage the roof.

Energy efficient

Ventilating an attic correctly is part of ensuring a home is as energy-efficient as possible. ‘In general, a home’s energy efficiency depends on the attic environment temperature,’ explains John Parks.

‘It’s one thing to have insulation, but insulation does not keep the attic cooler. The temperature of the attic space is affected by the outside temperatures, which affects the life and operation capability of your HVAC and insulation materials, all of which cost you money when they don’t work properly or efficiently.

‘Want to save money on your bills? Ensure the attic is set up so the temperature is regulated. Ventilation, insulation, radiant barriers, and air sealing all can achieve this.’

FAQs

How do you know if an attic is properly vented?

Checking the temperature and humidity can let you know that an attic is properly ventilated. In an attic without sufficient ventilation, you might encounter a musty smell or see mold, or there could be condensation, or it might be excessively hot. Remember that while an attic should be insulated, this must not impede ventilation. ‘Insulation could cause problems if it’s blocking the ventilation system,’ says John Parks, co-owner and COO of Advanced Insulation System. ‘Depending on what type of insulation is used, baffles can be installed to keep the insulation from blocking the vents.’

An attic is a useful part of a home, not least for storage. There are some items you should never store in the attic, but there are those you can store to free up space elsewhere. To maintain an attic’s structural integrity, pay attention to the possibility of unwanted residents. Getting rid of squirrels in the attic is a common requirement.

Zwilling, whilst new to the French press coffee maker scene, has actually been around for decades. The German giant is best known for their quality kitchenware, but now, they've turned their hand to coffee.

If you already know Zwilling, you'll recognise their signature sleek design and unparalleled technical skills in this French press. I've heard lots of good things about their French press and now I can confirm that it lives up to its reputation.

I took Zwilling's French press to our test kitchen to see how it compares to the best French presses. I used it to brew a full carafe of delicious coffee. Whilst I enjoyed every sip, there are some functional quirks which might put you off.

Specifications

Unboxing

I unboxed the Zwilling next to Stanley and Fellow's French presses. Zwilling had the edge at this stage, because it came in completely recyclable, carboard packaging. This is great from both an environmental and garbage perspective. It's not to be underestimated.

Against the other French presses, this was the smallest. It also balances a number of useful design features: it's transparent, so you can watch your coffee brew; it's double-walled, for keeping your coffee hot; and has fine filters, so you can brew a smooth cup of coffee. It seems like a French press dream come true.

Who would it suit?

There are plenty of people who want a clear carafe for brewing their coffee in. However, most of the classic designs have very little insulating power and can be quite hot to touch. This ticks boxes for being both clear and a good insulator, so suits those who are seeking a modern spin on classic aesthetics. 

Of course, if you're clumsy and think you're likely to drop your French press, this isn't an ideal option (there are plenty of stainless steel French presses, including the Fellow Clara, which is available at Nordstrom and it will better meet your needs). Plus, the double-walling has taken up valuable volume, meaning it delivers on smaller servings rather than brewing a carafe which could fill every cup in your cupboard.

What is it like to use?

French presses are rarely anything other than simple and the Zwilling is no exception. The stainless steel plunger feels tactile and, whilst the seal is effective, it doesn't give as much resistance as other models.

The Zwilling's capacity is just under 27 oz, which is relatively small. By the time I added my coffee grounds and water (in a 1:12 part ratio), I had 24 oz of coffee. I didn't want much more, because the plunger and filter wouldn't sit neatly in. I would say this is close to the Zwilling's limit. If you'll be making two to three cups of coffee, this is perfect, but that isn't very much.

I left the Zwilling to brew for five minutes, before plunging the filter through the grounds. The coffee was just under 200 degrees Fahrenheit (if you want the details it was 197 degrees), which is a great temperature for French press. I even left some coffee in the carafe to test the double-wall insulation and it worked really well. A full hour later, the coffee was 190 degrees, which is fantastic by the standards of glass carafes.

Before I could get to the taste test, I lined up the filter with the spout and poured. The lightweight design made it all very easy. I filled my cup, stopped pouring, and didn't get any dribbling or mess running down the outside of the carafe. Plus, the outside was still cool to touch, so I could use a precautionary hand to support the carafe body whilst pouring.

My cup of coffee was light and delicately brewed. It had all the signature, acidic notes that I would expect from my French press coffee and the brew tasted smooth and consistent. Pouring my second cup, I could see a drop of coffee working its way from the spout to the base of my French press. I had read reviews that pouring is a problem for the Zwilling, so I put it down to this. When I made a second carafe, I had even more trouble pouring. At first, I thought the problem was me, but I got some other experts to test the Zwilling and they found the same. It dribbles down the carafe, so a significant amount misses the cup. If you don't pour with confidence, you lose a lot of coffee.

Cleaning, storage, and maintenance

The whole carafe and filter is dishwasher safe and each part is easy to disassemble, which makes for a really easy clean-up. The brushed stainless steel plunger doesn't get smears or fingerprint marks on very easily, so it's all low maintenance. 

The only things to note are that all the perks of a borosilicate glass carafe become cons when you're doing a clean-up. Glass shows dust, sediment and smears almost instantly. I'd recommend adding a microfiber cloth (such as this one from Walmart) to your coffee nook to make sure that your French press stays sparkling clean. Plus, if you're not careful pouring, you'll have extra clean-up from where your coffee dribbles down the carafe.

Storage-wise, this is both small and sleek. If you choose to keep it on display, you won't regret it. The Zwilling is compact and attractive, so, at the very worst, people won't notice it. I'd bet they'll compliment you on it though. If you do choose to store it away in drawers and cupboards, this is low enough to sit neatly under shelves.

How does it rate online?

There's a little less literature to read through online, because Zwilling isn't in huge demand amongst coffee enthusiasts. However, I've scrolled through customer reviews on both Zwilling's and third party sites and can confirm that those who buy it don't regret it.

I was struck by just how many people take pictures of their Zwillings to add to their reviews. It's clearly the subject of a lot of pride and with good reason, too. It's beautiful and the clean, minimalist lines of the design make it a good addition to any kitchen. 

People commented on the insulation, which impressed plenty of customers with its longevity. Although I wondered whether the size would be limiting, a number of reviewers treated this as a special product feature, taking theirs with them on holidays and into the office.

Whilst reviews unanimously praised the appearance and insulation of the Zwilling, they also united in criticism of the spout. It's very shallow with a steep curve, so a considerable number of people struggled with some dribbling. 

How does it compare?

If the insulating feature is what drew you to the Zwilling, I'd recommend taking a look at the Espro P7 (available at Walmart) and Fellow Clara (available at Nordstrom) French presses. Both of these are double walled, also putting insulation at the forefront of their design. 

I tested the Fellow Clara alongside the Zwilling, so it's easy to make direct comparisons. The Clara felt more durable than the Zwilling, mostly because it's made from stainless steel. The finish on the Clara was still sleek, but it takes a fair few more steps away from the classic, glass French press style.

Heat wise, the Clara was a better insulator. Whilst my Zwilling maintained a good temperature for an hour, the Clara could keep up the steamy temperatures for nearly three hours. If you often forget about your coffee and want to come back to it, the Clara is a better bet. It also boasts a bigger capacity and the lining has some etched guidelines for free-pouring grounds and water into the carafe, making it convenient and easy to use. 

Whilst the Clara might sound like a better option, it's also twice, if not three times the price of the Zwilling. Even though I loved the Clara, it's hard to justify spending so much more for a few more hours of heat when the Zwilling does a great job anyway.

If you like the idea of watching your coffee brew, you seriously need to consider the Bodum Chambord French press. This has a more traditional style and, whilst it won't keep your coffee warm for hours, it available in a range of sizes, so you can pick the perfect one for your home. Bodum's French presses are available as a 51 oz model (available at QVC), perfect for large homes. However, if you want single-servings, there's also a 12 cup carafe (also available at QVC). The maximum capacity for the Zwilling is 27 ounces, no more, no less, so unless that suits you, there's very little room for movement. Opting for the Bodum will mean you compromise on style and insulation, but you'll have a better pouring experience too.

Should you buy it?

If you want a well-insulated, modern, minimalistic French press, this is a good option. It's actually hard to fault, aside from the dripping, which you can remedy with a confident pour. However, if you want to play it safe (and you're not bothered by insulation), it's worth having a browse of Bodum's range of French presses.

How we test

At Homes & Gardens we pride ourselves on our unsponsored, in-person testing process. We have a team of expert testers who are dedicated to reviewing products. They take every French press we recommend to our test kitchen where they use it to brew everything from a single cup to a cull carafe of French press coffee.

We always work on the standard one part coffee to twelve parts water ratio, unless a brand specifically asks us not to. We use the same coffee, ground coarsely, so that each French press has a fair chance of making a flavorful cup. 

We'll take a measure of the temperature (ideally it will be around 200 degrees), as well as how much coffee we make. Most importantly, we'll let you know about the taste and texture of the coffee. It should be smooth to drink, with rich, bold, slightly acidic flavors. We keep a special eye on coffee grounds, which, whilst not a disaster, indicate that the filtration isn't up to certain standards.

Once we've done our taste tests, we wash up and try different storage options for each French press. That way, we'll find out which kitchens it might be too tall, too wide, or too unsightly for. We'll also pick up on how easy the filter is to disassemble and whether the components are dishwasher safe. These are all things which it's great to know, especially before you buy a French press.

If you're interested in finding out more, you can visit our dedicated page for how we test coffee makers.

If you are tired of dripping faucets or constantly running your heating to avoid frozen pipes, it might be time to take more permanent action.

Frozen pipes in winter are everyone’s worst nightmare – especially if you are unsure what to do when a pipe bursts or don't want to shell out for expensive repairs and maintenance.

This is how to insulate pipes and keep them warm through winter, helping to protect your home and save you money. 

How to insulate pipes

You shouldn’t wait to worry about pipes freezing before looking for insulation to prevent a burst. Insulating your pipes has many benefits, from protecting against extreme heat and cold to stopping your hot water pipes from losing heat as they transport water – helping to make your heating more efficient and cutting energy bills.   

Steve Leasure, Vice President of Operations at Rainbow Restoration, a Neighborly company, explains that every homeowner needs to consider insulation if they want to stay safe in winter, too. Not just those who live in cold climates: 

‘Homes with plumbing in unheated or poorly insulated areas, such as basements, crawl spaces, and attics, are particularly vulnerable,’ he reveals. ‘Additionally, homes in areas prone to severe winter storms should take proactive measures to prevent frozen pipes. Winterizing your plumbing is crucial to avoid costly repairs and water damage associated with frozen pipes.’

Almost every water pipe in your home needs treatment, adds Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician at Air Conditioner Lab. ‘Your water supply pipes are most vulnerable to freezing, both around and under your home, and in more obvious spots such as under sinks,’ he explains, ‘followed by your hot water pipes – especially if you are not using your heating for long periods such as overnight.’  

Luckily, there are a few ways to ensure your pipes stay warm, even in sub-zero temperatures. 

1. Consider heated pipe cables

In particularly cold areas, a heated tape can be wrapped around pipes to supply a low, steady heat to prevent ice from forming inside, begins Josh Rudin disaster restoration expert and owner of ASAP Restoration. 

‘While this is one of the more energy-intensive methods for preventing a pipe burst, it is also one that works the best,’ he assures. ‘Pipe warming cables will add to the energy bill, but they can save thousands in water damage repair costs down the road.’ 

2. Wrap your pipes in foam insulation

'The easiest and cheapest way to insulate your pipes and protect them from freezing is to wrap them in foam insulation sleeves. This helps to keep cold out and heat in, making them a perfect solution for all pipes around your home,' says Steve Leasure, VP of operations at Rainbow Restoration. Draft-proofing and insulating your home generally can also help to prevent pipes from freezing by keeping your wall and floor cavities warmer overall, he adds.

'When using heat tape, check to see if you can add insulation over the top or not – you want to ensure you are not covering anything that may overheat or melt the insulation, or you will have another expensive, potentially dangerous clean-up task on your hands,' Steve adds. 

You can often buy pipe insulation from hardware stores that can be cut down to size yourself, making this a great DIY project if you are looking to save money at home. Otherwise, a professional can install insulation to save your energy. 

3. Keep your home at a constant temperature

'Keeping your home warm constantly is not only more comfortable for you but better for your pipes, too, continues disaster restoration expert Josh Rudin. Understanding the best temperature for a thermostat in winter and the best temperature for a thermostat when on winter break can make all the difference when it comes to pipe troubles, he says. 

‘Set your thermostat above 55 degrees in your whole home, even when you aren’t there,’ he recommends. ‘This allows warmer air into the places where your water pipes are, and having a higher ambient temperature can prevent a burst.'

Using a smart thermostat can give you better control over your home heating, with some systems even alerting you when there is an increased chance of frozen pipes. 

FAQs

How much does it cost to insulate pipes? 

‘The primary costs associated with insulating pipes include purchasing insulation sleeves, heat tape, caulk, weather stripping, and outdoor faucet covers. These materials are generally affordable and can be found at hardware stores,’ explains Steve Leasure, Vice President of Operations at Rainbow Restoration. ‘The costs vary based on the size of your home and the extent of insulation needed. However, compared to the potential expenses of repairing frozen pipes and water damage, the investment in insulation is relatively small and provides essential protection for your plumbing during winter.’ 

Should all pipes in an attic be insulated? 

When insulating pipes to protect them from freezing, it is important to insulate all pipes in the attic and basement (as well as other cold spots such as crawl spaces) to prevent all blockages and stop ice from one area of a pipe from spreading to another.  

Ensuring your pipes remain well insulated and heated should be one of the more important tasks on your to-do list when preparing a house for cold weather. Some insulation or heat tape may deteriorate over time, making annual checks important to protect your home. 

Leaving an attic door open during a freeze is an old home heating hack to prevent damage during winter – but does it really work to prevent freezing pipes? 

Experts suggest this method certainly has its merits, but it needs to be used carefully to prevent other household issues, such as expensive heating bills and worn-out heating systems. 

This is what HVAC experts and contractors think about leaving your attic door open during a freeze and when to use this hack for the best results. 

Should you leave an attic open during a freeze?

'Although it might not seem like a big deal, leaving your attic door or hatch open during freezing weather can help to prevent a whole host of home maintenance issues, such as preventing ice dams on roofs, frozen pipes, and mold growth,' begins Jay Sanders, contractor and owner of Castle Dream Construction. 'This is because it allows hot air to rise from the rest of your property into the attic space, preventing sharp temperature fluctuations.' 

What’s more, keeping the air flowing around your property stops musty odors and mildew development – protecting your home storage and helping to make your home smell nice.

'More often than not, this practice is most beneficial in older homes or houses with less roof insulation,' continues Justin Bohannon, owner of Affordable Solutions HVAC & Electrical. 'Most modern homes have attics designed with ventilation and temperature control in mind, helping the space to maintain a somewhat consistent climate no matter the weather outside. However, when an older attic does not have modern ventilation, leaving the door can protect HVAC equipment and plumbing.'

'That being said, leaving your attic door open in winter can make the rest of your home colder, forcing your HVAC system to work harder to heat your space and leading to increased energy costs, especially when trying to keep a poorly insulated house warm,' warns Taras Stomin HVAC account manager at Home Alliance. 

'What’s more, leaving your attic door open can contribute to moisture migration, especially if you do not have good attic ventilation,' adds Jordan Woolf, professional roofer at Huntsville Roofing Solutions. ‘Warm, moist air from your living space entering the cold attic can condense on exposed surfaces, promoting mold growth and wood rot. This can damage your roof and attic structure.'

It's worth weighing the pros and cons of leaving the door open. You might open it for a few hours a day and close it at night or use other additional heating methods in your attic, such as pipe heaters. Similarly, you should consider dripping faucets to prevent pipes in your attic from freezing. 

What to do if you leave the attic shut and it freezes

If you have left your attic closed and ended up with ice dams or frozen pipes, it is important to heat the space up gradually rather than all at once, to prevent burst pipes and further damage to your home. 

When defrosting an attic, Jay Sanders, contractor, recommends starting by checking any vents for ice dams and debris to help restore ventilation to the area. ‘Then, use space heaters or towels soaked in hot water to gently thaw any frozen pipes. Be very careful not to rupture pipes. If pipes burst, shut off the water and call a plumber immediately,’ he advises. 

'Allowing hot air from the rest of your home to circulate gradually will also help to raise the overall ambient temperature up there,' adds Justin Bohannon, HVAC expert. 

FAQs

At what temperature do pipes freeze in the attic?  

According to a study by the University of Illinois, pipes in attics usually start to freeze around 20F and below, especially if they are uninsulated and unheated. Adding insulation to your attic and pipes ensures that the space stays warm, as this can prevent sudden temperature fluctuations. 

How long does it take for attic pipes to freeze?  

Attic pipes typically take around six to eight hours to freeze, though if they are not insulated and you are not dripping faucets, this process may be quicker. Exterior pipes can freeze quicker than this if the temperature is below 20F for extended periods of time. As such, it is helpful to always drip faucets in freezing weather and consider installing heating or insulation around pipework to keep them in good condition for longer.  

One of the best ways to ensure an attic doesn't freeze without the downside of making your heating work harder is to properly insulate and ventilate your attic and pipes so that they can stand up to tough winters. Sealing air leaks and installing vents will help to keep air moving while maintaining a consistent temperature, reducing the need to manually heat the space when bad weather hits.  

Keeping a home at a comfortable temperature year-round demands a variety of strategies. Good maintenance and sufficient insulation are always on the agenda, but should you insulate a basement ceiling?

Basement insulation is definitely worthwhile, and it’s one of the many eco-home improvements that can add value to your property. According to the US Department of Energy’s Energy Saver program, it can also help you save money on heating and provide a dry, comfortable living space.

However, is the best strategy to insulate basement walls, ceilings, or both? Below, we examine the pros and cons of each option and ask home renovation experts to weigh in on the topic. 

Basement ceiling and wall insulation

Why is the question of basement insulation so important? According to the Department of Energy’s Energy Saver program: ‘Basements can account for 10-30% of a home’s total heat loss and provide a significant risk of moisture problems due to extensive cold surfaces at the walls and slab.'

In other words, it’s a project that can bring significant savings on energy bills, as well as reduce your home’s environmental impact.

As for where to insulate, these are the arguments.

Insulating a basement ceiling: pros and cons

The Pros

Basement ceiling insulation can be a boon. ‘In colder climates, it will help with heating and cooling of your home,’ says Docia Boylen, owner of Handyman Connection of Golden. 

An additional reason you might not have considered  – but which can be a huge benefit depending on basement use – is noise reduction. ‘If you don't want to hear what is going on between floors, insulation is the way to go,’ Docia says.

Be aware that it is not mandatory. ‘Code does not require the basement ceiling to be insulated,’ explains Tony Caciolo, president at Monogram Custom Homes and Pools.

The Cons

There can be some downsides to insulating a basement ceiling. ‘One thing to consider is that when you insulate, your basement ceiling is now completely separated from your house floor, which can be a good heat source,’ explains Docia. ‘This would result in a colder basement that can impact the temperature of your home if cold air from the basement travels through any cracks and holes around your electrical wires and plumbing coming out of the basement.

‘Another downside could be the number of mechanical pipes and wires that are running in the ceiling, which could make the area not recommended for insulation,’ she says. 

‘A final reason would be height,’ Docia adds. ‘If you can’t allow the space for insulation and maybe drywall, the area should be left alone. Sometimes basements are not as high as other floors.’

Tony Caciolo identifies possible problems with traditional fiberglass or mineral wool insulation: ‘Basement ceiling insulation is often installed upside down with the paper facing visible,’ he explains. ‘This is a fire hazard, and it is printed on the insulation so that the paper facing cannot be exposed. 

‘The correct way is to use unfaced insulation, but herein lies the issue. Small fibers will continue to fall from this open-faced insulation and can make for an “itchy” basement. So customers don’t really like the exposed fiberglass or mineral wool. There are other options, such as spray foam, but the cost is almost impossible to justify since the gain is minimal.’

Note that it’s different if there’s drywall on the ceiling when the insulation will be covered, Tony says.

Insulating basement walls: pros and cons

The Pros 

Basement wall insulation can control moisture in this room, which will help get rid of black mold and rot and save energy. If you’re constructing a home, exterior insulation can be used, but interior wall insulation can be added to an existing home. 

The Cons

There are a few disadvantages to insulating basement walls on the inside. Interior insulation will slightly reduce the basement’s usable area. It might also need a fire-rated covering, depending on the insulation type, say the experts at Energy Saver.

Bear in mind that correct installation is vital. ‘Insulation on the interior of basement walls must be installed in an airtight manner that keeps airborne vapor from condensing on cold walls,’ states the Department of Energy’s Building America program, which provides research and development to the residential new construction and remodeling industry. ‘At the same time, the material must be a vapor retarder that is semi-permeable so any moisture coming through the wall can dry to the interior.’

Insulating a basement: the verdict

Our experts unanimously agree that you are better off exploring external wall insulation over insulating a basement ceiling: 

‘Even in a house with an unconditioned basement, the basement is more connected to other living spaces than to the outside, which makes wall insulation preferable to ceiling insulation,’ concludes The Department of Energy’s Energy Saver Program. 

Not only will this help reduce moisture and mold (a common occurrence in home basements), but these smart solutions can potentially reduce your energy bills too. 

FAQs

What type of insulation should I use in my basement ceiling?

If you still want to insulate a basement ceiling – perhaps to soundproof the ceiling – then acoustic insulation should be your choice.

‘Acoustic insulation significantly improves the performance of a ceiling against airborne noise, reducing sound,’ says Docia Boylen, owner of Handyman Connection of Golden. 

‘Bat/roll insulation is great for a DIY’er,’ she continues. ‘To install this, you need the ceiling to be open and accessible (no drywall), and you also need standard studs and joists in the area to install. 

'This type of insulation will likely be available at your local hardware store, and it will come in different R ratings depending on the climate you live in. It comes with and without foil. The foil acts as a vapor or air barrier and is good for basements.’

The most energy efficient homes are insulated from roof to foundation, but there are fixes that can keep a poorly insulated house warm. Use heat-retaining tricks, too, to stay comfortable when its cold. And draft proofing tips can come to the rescue for a more comfortable home environment and lower bills.

As Solved Section Editor at Homes & Gardens, I’ve completed my fair share of eco home improvements over the years, and I know all too well the importance of kickstarting the year with a well-maintained home.

January offers a golden opportunity to finally address those home maintenance tasks that have been lingering on your to-do list. By making your way through this checklist, you're not only starting the new year with a sense of achievement but also ensuring that your home is working hard to meet your needs.

Whether you're a seasoned DIY enthusiast or just looking to make your living space more comfortable, consider adding these ten home improvement tasks to your January checklist.

Home maintenance tasks to complete in January  

Though you may already have started to winterize your house in the month of December, working in January and completing home maintenance tasks for February, helps get on top of home maintenance tasks that will refresh your home and protect your property from incremental weather. 

1. Inspect and Upgrade Insulation

January's biting cold makes it the ideal time to prioritize your home insulation. I always begin the year by inspecting my home's insulation because proper insulation is a key component in keeping your home warm over winter.

When your heating bills start to unexpectedly rise, poorly insulated windows and attics are usually the prime suspects. Consider investing in high-quality attic insulation and make sure to weatherproof your windows and seal any gaps around your doors to prevent drafts.

2. HVAC System Maintenance

Don't underestimate the importance of checking and maintaining your HVAC system in January - the last thing you want is for it to malfunction during a winter storm. 

Start by replacing air filters and cleaning ducts to optimize airflow and air quality. If you haven't done so recently, consider scheduling professional HVAC maintenance. A well-maintained system not only ensures your comfort but also lowers energy consumption, helping you cut your energy bills.

3. Drain and flush your radiators

Learning how to drain a radiator is a great skill to have. Each January, I drain and flush my radiators to release trapped air and eliminate cold spots. Over time, sediment and debris accumulate in these devices, which reduces their energy efficiency. By keeping on top of radiator maintenance, you can maintain a cozy atmosphere all winter long. 

4. Upgrade Lighting

It’s usually around January that I start to notice some of my lightbulbs flickering or going out. I take this opportunity to replace outdated fixtures and bulbs with energy-efficient LED options. 

Smart lighting not only reduces your energy consumption, it can also enhance the overall ambiance of your home. I maintain that layered lighting is the key to a cozy-feeling living room. 

5. Tackle stains left over from the holidays

If your house is anything like mine, there are usually one or two Christmas-related stains that need tackling. Whether it’s sticky fingers on walls, soot from the fire, or red wine on carpets, I like to begin the new year by removing these marks and getting back on top of my regular cleaning routine.

When it comes to combating stains, I always like to keep a tub of baking soda around to absorb liquids. However, there are very few stains that can’t be tackled with regular dish soap and water.

6. Freshen up walls

We’ve all heard the expression ‘new year, new me’, and I like to take the same approach to my home by welcoming in the new year with refreshed walls. 

Start by wiping and cleaning walls to eliminate any dust and grime. This process not only revitalizes your living space but it also reveals any imperfections that may require patching or repainting. Then you can refresh any walls that may have faded or yellowed over time with a new lick of paint. 

Consider applying a fresh shade of paint to an accent wall to combat the January blues and give your home an affordable update.

7. Upgrade Your Thermostat

One of my top tips for lowering heating bills and keeping your home warm in winter is to install a programmable thermostat. This smart addition allows you to regulate your home's ambient temperature and can be set to a specific schedule. 

Plus, you can even control your heating while you are away, meaning you can program your thermostat to warm up your house as you return from vacation, ensuring it feels inviting and cozy when you step through the door. 

8. Inspect and clean fireplaces and chimneys

While this is an essential November home maintenance job, after the holidays, it's a good idea to inspect and clean your fireplace and chimney again, if you have one. Check for any cracks in the bricks or mortar, as these could pose safety risks, and ensure that the damper operates smoothly and effectively. 

I always advise hiring a professional chimney sweep. They can expertly remove soot and creosote, reducing the risk of fires and ensuring proper ventilation.

If you have a wood-burning fireplace, make sure you stock up on seasoned firewood and store it in a dry area. There's nothing quite like the cozy warmth of a properly tended fire to keep you comfortable during the chilly months ahead.

9. Assess home security systems

If you have a home security system, I suggest you take the time to test the functionality of your sensors, cameras, and alarms. Check for any signs of wear or malfunction, give the camera lenses a good clean, and take the time to review and update any associated smart apps that control your security system

Additionally, now is a good time to triple-check your home locks and ensure garden security lighting is in good working order. 

10. Test Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

If you only complete one of these tasks in January, make it this one. You should regularly test your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to ensure they are operational. Replace batteries promptly to safeguard your family from potential hazards. A few moments spent on these checks can make all the difference in an emergency!

Finally, I always kick off the year with a good post-Christmas cleaning blitz. Pay attention to often-neglected areas (reach for those top shelves and give your oven a much-needed scrub), clean your windows inside and out, and refresh your floors. 

Sheds can be a valuable addition to any garden. However, their separation from your home and occasional use can often leave them feeling chilly and unwelcoming. By following these tactics – which strike a careful balance between functionality and comfort – you can ensure that your shed remains warm, so you can make the most of it.

Creating a cozy and inviting atmosphere in your shed involves a thoughtful blend of design, insulation, and decor choices.

Whether you use your shed as a home office, a bedroom, or simply for storing garden items, incorporating these expert tips can significantly enhance the warmth of your shed while also helping to cut energy bills.

How to make your shed feel warm

Making your shed warmer is a practical concern for many, especially as the seasons change. Here are some expert tips to ensure your shed is a comfortable space, no matter the weather outside:

1. Add insulation

'Proper insulation is key to retaining heat in your shed,' says Shlomo Cherniak, owner of Cherniak Handyman Services. 'Insulating the walls, ceiling, and floor of your shed can help prevent heat loss and keep the interior warmer. 

'There are various insulation materials available, such as fiberglass, foam board, or spray foam insulation, that you can use based on your shed's construction and needs.' 

'Heat can also escape through the floor, especially if it's just bare earth or concrete,' explains Josh Mitchell, HVAC Technician and owner of Air Conditioner Lab. 'To combat this, add insulation boards beneath your flooring material, like plywood. Additionally, rugs or carpet remnants can add warmth and comfort underfoot.'

The best type of insulation will depend on your shed's structure, your budget, and how eco-friendly the material is. Getting your insulation right can make heating more efficient, reduce your environmental impact, and save you money.

2. Weatherproof your shed

'Gaps and cracks can allow drafts to enter your shed, reducing its overall warmth,' explains Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician. Ensuring your shed is properly sealed will help maintain a cozy room, so it's important to identify any sources of drafts by looking out for gaps and cracks in the walls. 

Use a candle or incense stick to determine where cold air is coming from by looking for any signs of air flow indicated by a flickering candle or smoke movement. Once identified, patch these up with caulk and apply weather stripping around doors and windows to seal any openings. 

To fix drafty doors, consider adding door sweeps or a draft blocker to add an extra layer of protection.

3. Incorporate heating solutions

Choosing the right type of heating for your shed is essential. Below, Shlomo Cherniak shares two popular heating types:

Electric radiant floor heating: This highly efficient option involves heating the floor, which then warms the people and objects in the room instead of just heating the air. These systems can be controlled with a smart thermostat which allows you to warm the space when you want to use it, and save energy when your shed is not in use. 

Solar-powered options: Solar-powered heating systems are perfect for anyone looking to undertake eco home improvements, as they utilize solar energy to generate heat. Depending on the size of your shed, solar panels may be an option worth exploring. 

Always prioritize safety and compliance with local regulations when installing a heating system. 

4. Window treatments

Windows are often a significant source of heat loss. While double glazing is the most effective way to keep windows insulated, it can be an expensive choice. Secondary glazing is a cost-effective alternative that reduces heat loss and provides additional soundproofing. You can purchase DIY secondary glazing kits online that are easy to affix to your windows and can be removed during warmer seasons. 

5. Maximize sunlight

'During the day, open curtains or blinds to allow sunlight to enter the shed,' recommends Shlomo Cherniak. 'Sunlight can naturally warm up the space and provide some heat'. 

When designing a shed, consider positioning it in a way that maximizes exposure to sunlight. Add skylights and tactically povsition windows according to where the sun faces. 

FAQs

'Don't forget to perform regular shed maintenance checks,' advises HVAC Technician Josh Mitchell. 'Look for issues like leaks, drafts, or damage to the insulation, and address them promptly to ensure your shed remains warm and inviting.'

Safety should always be a top priority, especially when installing
heating solutions. When in doubt, consult a professional to ensure everything is done safely and effectively.

Compost helps build healthier soil, improve plant growth and conserve water, making it a very useful resource to have for your outdoor garden plants and vegetables. By using compost, you are returning organic material and nutrients back to the soil that can be immediately used by the plants and vegetables.

It is handy to know how to make your own compost as a way of achieving your sustainable gardening goals. Ideally, compost should be put to use right away, because its chances of losing nutrients increase with storage time. However, by paying it a bit of attention, compost can be stored for the next season

As the winter chill sets in, many gardeners wonder about the fate of their compost piles. A simple yet effective strategy to maintain your compost will help sustain it throughout the seasonal challenges of winter.

How to maintain compost over winter

Winter composting can be challenging. Despite there being many potential composting mistakes, with the right strategies it is possible and highly beneficial to maintain your compost until the following season.

Balance ingredients

During winter, it's essential that you maintain a good balance between nitrogen-rich green materials and carbon-rich brown materials in your compost. This balance helps to sustain microbial activity, even in lower temperatures.

You can do this by adding kitchen scraps such as vegetable peel and leftovers as your greens substances, and fallen leaves or straw as your brown substances. According to Charlotte Ekker Wiggins, a Master Gardener Emeritus who is based in mid-Missouri, composting material over winter will decompose slower so it helps to cut up kitchen scraps into smaller pieces.

Starting your compost pile with a substantial layer of brown material at the bottom aids moisture absorption and aeration, preventing the pile from becoming soggy. This is especially important in colder months when composting slows down.

Insulation is key

Another important way to maintain your compost over winter is to insulate it correctly. You can use straw bales, old carpets, or even a thick layer of leaves around and over the compost bin.

By insulating your compost bin you will help retain the heat generated by microbial activity needed for the decomposition process, even during the colder months.

If you are able to, position your composters where they get maximum sun. Any additional sunlight will help keep the compost bin warm. There are now compost bins already with efficient thermal insulation including the EJWOX Insulated Compost Bin from Amazon.

Keep turning your compost

‘While you'll want to turn your compost less frequently in winter to retain heat, it's still important to do so occasionally,’ says Aaron Green, founder of Essential Home and Garden. ‘This will prevent your compost from becoming anaerobic and will help distribute the heat throughout the pile.’ This is an essential thing to do to stop your compost smelling bad.

Regular turning will help to aerate the compost, with this aerator available from Amazon, as it will encourage faster decomposition. During winter, try to reduce the frequency to prevent heat loss, but do it enough to maintain oxygen levels.

Size matters

A small compost pile will have a tough time retaining heat, whereas a larger pile retains heat better. Gardening expert Tony O’Neill suggests you should aim for a compost pile that is at least three feet tall and wide, as this will fare best over winter.

This size helps to ensure the pile's core stays warm and active, as it will be large enough to retain heat but small enough to still receive insulated protection.

Regularly top up with a 70/30 mix of brown and green waste. You can use layers of leaves, straw or cardboard to keep warmth in the pile.

Monitor moisture levels

Keep the pile moist but not soggy to stop compost freezing. When spring arrives, the pile may be very wet, especially if it has frozen over the winter. This is caused by the lack of evaporation and can lead to excess moisture.

Ensure proper drainage and cover your compost if heavy rains are expected. If your compost becomes overly wet, mix in dry materials like straw or shredded newspaper to absorb the water and restore the balance.

In areas with heavy winter precipitation, cover your compost pile with a tarp or a compost bin lid. This prevents it from getting too soggy, which can slow down the composting process and lead to unpleasant odors.

FAQs

Winter is not a time to neglect your compost. By implementing these simple tips, you can keep your compost pile healthy and active, ensuring a nutrient-rich start for your spring gardening endeavors. You can learn more about how to boost soil nutrients in our in-depth guide.

If you have your heating on and still have one frigid room in your home, it can be hard to work out where the issue lies. 

Although it can be tempting to close the door and reduce how often you use the space, this can be the enemy of keeping a house warm all day, even resulting in mold and higher energy bills – especially if a broken duct is to blame. 

From leaking ducts to faulty windows, these are the reasons one room may be colder than others, and how to fix them. 

Why is one room colder than the rest of my house? 

Even if you do not use the room very often, it is important to continue to heat the space to make your heating more efficient. Keeping all of your rooms warm will not only ward off mold and condensation but will also prevent cold air from one room from leaking into the rest of your space, making your home cold even with heating. 

1. Your air ducts are leaking

If only one room is affected, and you can feel very little heat from your vents at all, then leaking ductwork is likely to blame, begins Amit Gupta, HVAC expert and CEO at Aeroseal:

‘95% of all air ducts leak,’ he shares. ‘How much leakage varies from house to house. Over time, air ducts can deteriorate and develop cracks, holes, or loose connections. The material used in the ducts, such as metal or flexible ductwork, can weaken with age and usage.’

If you suspect leaking ducts are to blame, then it is best to schedule a professional service to help locate and repair any issues and cut energy bills.  

2. Your air ducts are not installed properly

Likewise, it may be that your home heating ducts were not installed correctly in the first place, Amit Gupta, HVAC expert, continues. 

‘If ductwork is not installed properly, it can lead to gaps or misalignments that allow air to escape,’ he says. ‘Inadequately sealing joints and connections during installation is a common issue that leads to leaks.’ Again, this is an issue best repaired by an HVAC technician. 

3. Your room is not insulated

Another structural cause may be a lack of proper insulation in your room. While it is possible to keep a poorly insulated home warm, it is much easier and cost-efficient to find ways to keep the heat in before it seeps outside, reminds David Walter, contractor at Electrician Mentor:

‘To see if this is the issue, just put your hands on the walls in that room and see if they are colder than other walls in other rooms. If they are, that is your problem,’ he recommends. 

More often than not, the fix is rather simple,’ he assures. ‘If you have cavity walls, it involves drilling small holes into those walls and applying spray foam insulation. Then you have to fill in the holes with caulk, which is a basic procedure.’

There are other options available if you do not have cavity walls, such as thermal paint or insulation boards. 

4. Your window is leaking

Sometimes, warming up a cold room in an otherwise warm house comes down to simple draft-proofing, especially if a cold window is to blame, says Sol Kruk, owner and licensed home inspector at Property Inspection Pros. 

Use your hands to check for cold breezes around your windows, checking all around the frame, he recommends. ‘Sometimes our windows can have cracks or drafts that allow a cold breeze to waft inside,’ he explains. ‘For a quick fix, you can repair with weatherproofing tape or window film. If you have the scope, consider replacing the windows entirely if they are old.’

5. Your room is north-facing

If you have ruled out structural issues, then it may be that your room is simply north-facing, Sol Kruk, licensed home inspector, determines. Warming up a north-facing room can be trickier than other spots in your house, but it is not impossible to bring it up to temperature, he says. 

‘If one room faces the sun and another doesn't, it can cause one room to feel warmer than the other. For the room that doesn't receive sunlight, you can add a space heater to help it be less cool,’ he suggests. 

To keep a north-facing room feeling cozy through winter, you can also bulk the space out with soft furnishings, adding rugs to help warm up underfoot and thermal window treatments and draft excluders to keep warm air in.  

FAQs

If none of these bigger issues are to blame, it may be that your cold room is simply less furnished than the others in your space. Rooms without thick drapes, carpets, or lots of soft furnishings will naturally feel a little colder than those with. Once structural issues are put to rest, consider adding a little more insulation in the way of decor to help buffer against the cold.  

Nothing is worse than getting out of a warm shower into a freezing cold room and trying to get dressed while feeling the chill. 

But with tiled floors and walls and a lack of soft furnishings, bathrooms are usually the most susceptible to dips in temperature – so how do you keep a bathroom warm in winter? 

From adding heating to using the best bath towels, this is how contractors and heating experts ensure every bathroom stays cozy. 

How to keep a bathroom warm in winter

Whether you have heating in your bathroom or are trying to keep a bathroom warm without heating in winter, there are some simple ways to make a bathroom cozy that won't break the bank.

1. Use a heated towel rack

The most obvious way to warm up a bathroom is to add some sort of heating. The easiest way to do this is a heated towel rack – doubling as both a radiator and a way to ensure our towels are warm and fluffy after bathing, says Luis Carmona, designer and owner of Verde ID. 

You can double this up by combining a heated towel rack with warming light bulbs too, he adds: ‘Both items are relatively easy to install and add a touch of luxury in the space. If you typically take hot showers, but get cold when you step out, consider installing the warming light bulb right above the bath mat.’

2. Consider installing under-floor heating

Whether or not you need underfloor heating in a bathroom is down to personal preference, but it certainly helps to keep a bathroom warm in winter, assures Will Ehrman, project manager at Hatchet Design Build. Of all the bathroom heating options, it is the trickiest to install unless you are already in the process of a bathroom renovation, but it is worth the extra cost, he suggests: 

‘Consider installing a radiant heat mat beneath the tile for added warmth and comfort, especially for your feet; note, however, that this can only be done when installing new tile.’

3. Install a steam shower

Steam showers are not just a luxury reserved for wet room bathrooms – they make great additions if you want a spa bathroom that will keep you warm as you dry off and wrap up, continues Will Ehrman, project manager. They are perfect for a bit of added comfort and relaxation, he says.  

4. Use a heated exhaust fan

Exhaust fans are a must in bathrooms to help prevent mold, but they can easily let in cold drafts, making your bathroom feel like an ice box. To counter this, either draft-proof your bathroom by covering the fan when you are not showering or consider swapping your existing fan for a heated variety, suggests Samantha Pratt, interior designer and wonder of Samantha Ashley Designs. 

Samantha recommends a heated exhaust fan, like this from Amazon, for a warmer, more comfortable space that doesn't sacrifice functionality. 

5. Use fluffy towels and thick mats

When buying new towels, it is essential to opt for the highest-quality, fluffiest sets you can afford if you want to be warm and cozy in a winter bathroom, says Artem Kropovinsky, interior designer and founder of Arsight. 

Given that it is difficult to add soft furnishings into a bathroom for fear of mold and mildew, your towels and bathmats need to play the role of both practical post-shower and functional for warming up the space.

If you have a large bathroom, consider adding a bathroom rug away from the toilet or shower to help warm up the floor. Opt for a machine-washable rug, such as this washable shag rug from Wayfair, to make it easier to clean and a little less susceptible to mold.  

6. Insulate windows

As with any room in the house, most heat is lost through glass, meaning insulating windows are a must if you want to stay toasty. 

If you can, Will Ehrman, project manager, recommends ‘opting for high-efficiency windows with double or triple-pane glass, and consider argon-filled options for even greater efficiency; these will significantly reduce heat loss and air leaks.’

If you are not up for a renovation, using simple insulating window film can do the job in a pinch. 

FAQs

A big part of keeping bathrooms warm in winter is making them look warmer visually. Adding in warm color schemes, rugs, fluffy towels, warm-toned bathroom lighting, and materials such as wood can go a long way toward tricking the mind that the room is warmer than it is. 

If you can, consider adding bathroom-suitable curtains or window treatments for a little extra insulation and privacy. 

Poor insulation is the enemy of energy bills in the winter. Hard to heat and difficult to keep warm, poorly insulated properties can feel like an uphill battle. 

Luckily, there are a few ways to keep even the worst of uninsulated houses warm without turning up the heat, helping to save you a little on your energy bills. 

From draft proofing tips to energy audits, this is what professional contractors and heating experts suggest. 

How to keep a poorly insulated house warm

Of course, it is important to temper your expectations when saving money in a poorly insulated home in winter. Due to inevitable heat loss, it is difficult to keep warm without using more energy than a house with both attic and cavity wall insulation. 

Nevertheless, these tips can help make your heating more efficient to help cut energy bills, even if only a little.  

1. Use window film to cheaply insulate glass

A surprising amount of heat is lost through glass, making windows a common offender for making houses feel cold in winter. Docia Boylen, contractor and owner of Handyman Connection of Golden, likes to use affordable window film to add an extra layer of insulation to a property without causing damage:

‘My favorite low-cost solution is a window wrap – clear plastic sheets that stop cold air from entering through unseen gaps in your window and frame. You can purchase a kit at any local hardware or home improvement store.’

All you have to do is measure and apply with a hair dryer to ensure a tight seal, being sure to double up with thermal curtains too for extra protection. This approach comes with the added benefit of helping to stop condensation on windows overnight, too, to help combat moisture and mold.  

2. Seal off drafts around your home

Cold drafts are a common occurrence in poorly insulated homes, making the space feel even colder than it already is. Jay Sanders, contractor and owner of Castle Dream Construction, recommends fashioning draft excluders around our doors and windows to help keep cold air out and warm air in. This can be done with traditional draft excluders, weather stripping, or even a slightly damp towel placed along the base of a door in a pinch – especially when draft-proofing an entryway where cold air is most likely to get in.

Remember to also draft-proof a fireplace if it is not in use as cold air can come in down the flue.

3. Use heaters strategically

Portable heaters may not be the most efficient home heating type, but they are great at bolstering central heating in cold, uninsulated homes, says Shlomo Cherniak, professional handyman and owner of Cherniak Home Services:

‘Portable space heaters can provide localized heat in specific areas to help your central heating along, or to heat specific spots to avoid heating the whole house all of the time,’ he says. 

‘Remember to always follow safety guidelines and manufacturer instructions when using space heaters to avoid a health or fire hazard,’ he adds.

4. Schedule a home audit

A common home heating mistake is battling against cold spots without understanding what is causing them.

Carol J Alexander, home renovation expert and writer at Fixr, suggests scheduling an energy audit from your energy supplier to help find problem areas and find the most effective solutions: ‘Many power companies offer online energy audits for free. An energy audit reveals areas where the property owner may improve the home's energy efficiency,’ she explains.

‘Some states offer federally and locally funded programs that assist disabled, elderly, and low-income residents in improving their homes' energy efficiency through weatherization methods. Renters may also apply. Residents can search online for the state and weatherization program to find one for their area.’ 

5. Reverse ceiling fans

While it may not keep your home warm all day, reversing ceiling fans is a common trick used to help recirculate hot air down towards where you are sitting to help the heat last longer, even in a poorly insulated house, reveals Docia Boylen, contractor. 

‘You want to run your fans clockwise at a low speed to circulate warm air throughout your home,’ she explains. 

6. Use soft furnishings to feel warmer

Whether you are trying to keep a living room warm without heating or keep an entryway warm without heating, soft furnishings can help to make the space look warmer and add a little bit of insulation.

Handyman Shlomo Cherniak recommends using rugs and carpets to help prevent heat loss through hard floors and make it more comfortable to walk around. Similarly, thermal curtains can help prevent heat loss through windows, doors, and some parts of your walls when hung strategically. 

Of course, when sitting on your sofa or in bed, a thermal throw will go a long way to keeping you comfortable too, he adds.

FAQs

When dealing with a poorly insulated home in winter, it is important to still try to heat it, even if it proves expensive and your house still feels cold with heating. Not heating a property can result in structural issues such as mold and damaged pipes, and health issues. Running the heating just a little every day is essential to keeping safe.  

Mudrooms, especially during winter, can often feel cold and uninviting, however, there are a few ways to make this space significantly warmer and more enjoyable to use. The key is to balance function with energy efficiency.

Keeping your mudroom warm is essential for creating a comfortable and welcoming entryway, which can be achieved through a combination of insulation, heating, and smart design.

Implementing these five measures recommended by experts can significantly increase the warmth of your mudroom, ensuring your whole home can maintain a stable and controlled temperature.

How to keep your mudroom warm

Keeping your home warm during winter involves a combination of practical solutions that will not only retain and add heat, but also keep the cold out. These practical tips are ideal for creating a cozy entrance to your home.

1. Ensure adequate insulation

'First of all, you need to make sure that your mudroom is well insulated. After all, no matter how good your heating system is, heat will leave your mudroom, making it difficult to achieve a comfortable temperature,' says Danny Pen, president of New Era Plumbing and HVAC. 

'To assess the insulation in your mudroom, carefully feel around windows, doors, and any other openings for drafts on a windy day. You can use a thin piece of tissue or a candle flame to detect air movement. If the tissue moves or the candle flame flickers when held near closed windows or doors, this indicates air leaks.

'If there are any drafts or leaks around windows or doors, seal them with weather stripping or caulking.' You can also use door sweeps or draft blockers to fix drafty doors.

'Prioritize high-quality weatherstripping materials like V-strip or adhesive-backed foam, ensuring a tight seal,' recommends Karina Newman, home expert and
owner of iBuyers. 'Consider upgrading to reinforced weatherstripping for doors with heavy usage.

'Regularly check and replace weatherstripping to maintain its effectiveness over time.

'Select adjustable door thresholds made from durable materials like aluminum or reinforced rubber. Ensure a precise fit to eliminate any gaps. 

'Periodically inspect and lubricate moving parts to prevent wear and tear.' 

'Finally, if you have pets, you should also make sure your pet doors are well-insulated,' adds Danny Pen. 'Look for pet doors with a double or triple flap system that seals tightly when not in use. Some models are even electronically controlled and only open when your pet wants to use it, providing an extra layer of insulation.' You can find this HARDLIGHT pet door at Amazon.

Keeping the cold air out plays a crucial role in reducing energy bills. This step is essential for maintaining a consistent temperature in your mudroom, making it a more comfortable space as soon as you step inside. 

2. Consider localized heating solutions

A practical solution for a mudroom is an energy efficient portable space heater, such as a small, wall-mounted heater, a baseboard heater or a heated floor mat. These can be used selectively, providing warmth when needed without heating the entire house.

'Choose a space heater with advanced features such as programmable thermostats, multiple heat settings, and safety features like tip-over switches,' recommends Karina Newman.

'Position the heater strategically to create an even distribution of warmth, taking into account airflow patterns in the room.'

'If your mudroom is large, consider adding a couple more space heaters to increase energy efficiency, as one space heater in a large room might need to work too hard and consume more energy,' explains Danny Pen.

Remember, space heaters should never be left unattended for extended periods and should be regularly cleaned and inspected for optimal performance.

3. Add interior elements for warmth

When it comes to warming up your mudroom, strategic design choices can be one of the most effective types of insulation that can make this space both look and feel warmer.

Adding a rug or carpet can provide extra insulation on the floor, particularly important if your mudroom has tile or concrete or tile floors which can get quite cold or wooden floors with cracks in them to prevent heat escaping through the floors.

'Select rugs or carpets with a balance of aesthetics and functionality,' advises Karina Newman. 'Look for rugs made from durable and stain-resistant materials suitable for heavy foot traffic. You could also consider custom-sized rugs to maximize coverage, and invest in high-quality padding for added insulation and comfort.

'To prevent heat loss through windows, utilize high-quality, insulating curtains or blinds that complement the aesthetic of the mudroom. Consider custom-made options for a perfect fit.'

You can also incorporate mudroom storage solutions to the walls, such as cubbies or cabinets, which can act as insulators as well as storage.

4. Ensure adequate ventilation

Ensure your mudroom is properly ventilated to prevent moisture buildup since excessive moisture can make the space feel colder. 

You can use exhaust fans or crack open a window periodically.

If the mudroom shares a wall with the house, installing a vent will allow warm air from the main heating system to the mudroom.

'If your mudroom is connected to your central heating system, ensure that the heating vents or radiators are not blocked and are functioning properly,' advises Danny Pen. Adjusting the dampers can often help to redirect more warm air into the mudroom.

5. Perform regular maintenance

'Establish a comprehensive maintenance schedule for your heating system, including regular inspections, cleaning, and any necessary repairs,' recommends Karina Newman. 'Conduct seasonal checks on insulation integrity and address any issues promptly. 

'Maintain a gardening routine around the mudroom to prevent overgrown vegetation that may affect insulation and airflow.'

This not only ensures efficiency of your heating systems, but also helps in evenly distributing heat throughout your home, including in the mudroom.

FAQs

To maximize heat and energy efficiency, consider adding reflector foil behind a radiator. 'This is a practical method to enhance the efficiency of your heating system and maintain warmth in a mudroom,' says Danny Pen.

'Radiator reflector foil is designed to reflect heat back into the room, rather than allowing it to be absorbed by the walls, especially if they are external walls.' We recommend this aluminum foil insulation, from Amazon.

If your mudroom is connected to your home's central heating system, installing a smart thermostat can help regulate the temperature efficiently. You can program it to warm the mudroom for the specific times of day you know you will be using it.

Next, learn our experts' golden rules for a clutter-free mudroom.

Learning how to heat a greenhouse could be necessary for a number of reasons. First off, you live in a cool region and want to try your hand at growing more exotic plants that require plenty of warmth.

You may want to extend the growing season for your plants over winter, or use your greenhouse to encourage early germination for some of your spring crops. Or you simply want somewhere warm to spend time pottering with your plants.

'The scale of heating you need is dependent on what you are growing and what you're trying to achieve,' explains Ali McEnhill, garden expert and owner of The Old Dairy Nursery & Gardens NYC.

Whatever method you decide on, keeping your greenhouse at a warm temperature throughout the winter months will help to keep plants healthy and ward off dampness and disease.

6 ways to heat a greenhouse and protect plants from low temperatures

'If you want to grow tropical plants in a cold climate, you’re going to need a serious heating system - most likely one that relies on oil, gas, or electricity,' explains Ali.

'If you’re looking to winterize a greenhouse to extend the season to grow cold-loving food crops or hardy perennials or annuals, you don’t need to install any supplemental heating system. The greenhouse captures plenty of heat during the day and we simply try to slow the wild swings in temperature,' she says.

1. Using insulation

One of the most effective ways to keep a greenhouse warm is by reducing heat loss – whether you're using a supplementary heat source or not.

'As with heating systems, how you insulate your greenhouse really depends on what you're growing,' says Ali.

'If you’re growing tropicals, you're probably going to want to eliminate cold drafts as much as possible. Some people apply bubble wrap to the glass; others protect plants from frost by blanket wrapping them individually.'

'If you really go to town insulating, you need to make sure you have fans constantly circulating the air (another potential cost to consider). Stagnant air breeds fungus and diseases, which will kill plants just as quickly as the cold,' says Ali. Try this Voltset Solar Powered Fan at Amazon.

'If you are simply trying to extend the season and provide protection from the worst winter weather, you really don’t need to worry about insulation. In fact, we throw open the doors each sunny day and allow our plants to experience the season.'

2. A hot bed

This method will give your seedlings a strong and early start. Building a hot bed is an old-school approach, from before the times of electricity or central heating systems. It's an ingenious method which relies on the heat created by decomposing organic material.

To make a hot bed, raised beds should be filled with organic, compostable material (such as straw or manure) and compressed down, then topped with topsoil and compost. The ratio of organic matter to growing medium should be 3:1.

Crops can be sown directly on top of the hot bed. A cover over the top, such as a small cloche, will warm up soil even further. And, in a couple of months' time, once the compost has cooled and rotted down, you can dig it out and use it in a raised bed garden outdoors.

3. 'Dark mass'

Ali likes this method and uses it in her own nursery greenhouse. 'Black painted water barrels are a great heat sink. They will absorb the heat from the sun in the day (make sure you position them in direct sunlight) and then naturally release it throughout the night.'

'It’s also useful to have water barrels on hand as you will still need to water plants through winter. We get a ton of snow in NYC, so I top the barrels up with snow when the water levels sink,' she says.

This is a great option if you want to heat a greenhouse cheaply. One which requires no installation either. 

Another option is to save plastic bottles and paint them black. Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover Spray Paint at Amazon will adhere to plastic. Fill them with water and leave them on the shelves of your greenhouse.

4. An electric fan heater

Though efficient at circulating heat, keeping a fan heater on throughout winter in order to maintain an even temperature will have cost, and environmental implications.

If you do choose this option you will need to factor in an electrical outlet when planning a greenhouse, one which has been properly installed. You will need to choose one which is specifically for use in greenhouses, not an indoor fan heater. Make sure it has a thermostat function so you can keep close control over the temperature. Like this greenhouse heater with digital thermostat at Amazon.

5. A solar heating system

If you want to heat your greenhouse constantly to maintain warmer temperatures, this is achievable using passive methods. In order to grow topical plants for example. One way is to have a hydronic heating system installed, which uses solar panels. 

Though expensive, if you are serious about heating your greenhouse, this can be seen as a better long term investment than oil, gas or electric heat sources.

However Ali McEnhill feels there really is no need to add extra solar heat for standard domestic greenhouses, as they are already designed to capture it. 'You can, of course, purchase supplemental solar heaters. There are an enormous number of options on the market these days,' she says.

6. A hot water pipe system

This method would only be necessary for very large structures and is a big investment.

A hot water pipe system with a boiler powered by gas or oil is the usual option for a greenhouse. This can be installed around the walls of the structure or under the floor. A good greenhouse tip is that thermostats should be placed away from drafts so they can give an accurate reading.

For a sustainable garden, consider a biomass boiler, which is fuelled by wood pellets, wood chips, or other renewable materials. They can cut the running costs even further, however, installation can be pricey.

FAQs

Unless you are using your greenhouse on a semi-industrial scale, want to grow tender exotic plants, or to have somewhere cozy to enjoy gardening during the cold months, heating a greenhouse is not a worthwhile cost.

We prefer the more passive methods, which will effectively keep your greenhouse warm enough over winter to keep your crops and other plants alive and well. They are friendlier to the environment, as well as your bank balance.

Although they are designed to warm up our homes, fireplaces can unfortunately also be the source of drafts, introducing some cold from outside into our living spaces if they are not properly draft-proofed.

Keeping your living spaces well insulated is important, especially in winter, which is why ensuring your fireplace doesn't let any warmth out or cold air in is our top priority when DIY draft-proofing a room. If done correctly, this can be an excellent way to lower heating costs and maintain a comfortable indoor environment.

From sealing gaps and cracks to finding inventive ways to block drafts, our experts have explained the best eight ways to draft-proof a fireplace.

How to draft proof a fireplace

These heat retaining-tricks can keep your home at the ideal temperature, whether you have an active or inactive fireplace.

1. Inspect the fireplace and chimney

First, inspect your fireplace and chimney to assess the source of drafts. Check for any visible signs of wear or damage, like gaps or cracks. These can often be the primary culprits for drafts. This will help you plan the best approach to take when draft-proofing your fireplace.

Ensure the chimney flue is free from debris, such as leaves, twigs, and creosote, which can cause blockages and contribute to drafts.

'If you notice any structural issues, such as cracks in the chimney or fireplace, it's important to get these repaired,' advises Josh Mitchell, HVAC technician and the owner of Air Conditioner Lab. 'This task might require the skills of a professional.'

2. Seal the chimney

Look for any gaps where the fireplace meets the wall and seal them, as these will contribute to sneaky ways drafts can hide in your home.

'To begin, it's essential to repair any cracks or gaps in the fireplace masonry. These can be fixed with fire-resistant mortar, ensuring that no unwanted air passes through,' advises John Jordan, CEO of Integrity Heating and Cooling.

You can use this heat-resistant sealant, from Amazon.

3. Install a chimney balloon

'The most affordable solution involves using a chimney balloon or fireplace plug. These are cost-effective and easy to install,' says John Jordan. 

'A chimney balloon is an inflatable device that can be placed in the chimney, just above the fireplace, and inflated to create a tight seal to prevent drafts when the fireplace is not in use.

'It's an inexpensive solution that can be easily removed when you want to use the fireplace. However, it's crucial to remember to remove the balloon before lighting a fire to prevent hazards.'

You can find a chimney balloon at Walmart.

4. Add chimney liner insulation

'Adding insulation around your chimney liner can also be an effective draft-proofing strategy, especially in older homes where chimneys might not be as well insulated,' says Josh Mitchell.

We recommend this ceramic fiber fireproof insulation blanket, from Amazon.

5. Invest in a chimney draft excluder

'Draught excluders are designed to block drafts and can be used in open chimneys. They are typically made of insulating materials and can be placed at the base of the chimney to prevent cold air from entering the room.

'A chimney draft stopper is an efficient way to prevent cold air from entering your home through the fireplace opening. It can be in the form of a fabric draft blocker, or a foam or silicone plug that is inserted into the chimney to block air from escaping,' explains Shlomo Cherniak, owner of Cherniak Handyman Services.

These, like chimney balloons, are easy to install, affordable, and can be placed just above the mantelpiece when the fireplace is not in use. 

Be sure to find one that fits the dimensions and shape of your fireplace to ensure it seals the chimney, excluding any drafts.

You can find this fabric draft blocker at Amazon.

6. Install a damper

'For the most efficient solution, investing in a top-sealing damper is recommended,' says John Jordan. 'Top-sealing dampers are installed at the top of the chimney and can be closed when the fireplace is not in use, providing a tight seal and effectively blocking drafts when the fireplace is not in use.

'Although this is not a DIY solution, they are more efficient than traditional throat dampers because they provide a better seal at the top of the chimney, preventing cold air from coming down and warm air from escaping.

'While they are more costly than other solutions, their efficiency in energy savings and heat retention can make them a worthwhile investment in the long run.'

'You can seal the chimney with a tight-fitting damper or install dampers at the top or throat of the chimney to block drafts,' explains Shlomo Cherniak.

If you already have a damper but are still feeling a draft, ensure it is properly sealed and in the right position to regulate airflow. If it's damaged, it may allow warm air to escape and cold air to enter and might need professional repair or replacement.

7. Install fireplace doors

Installing doors or screens can help prevent drafts by reflecting cold air and ensuring any debris does not enter your home.

'You can use foam insulation plugs or boards to seal off the fireplace opening when it is not in use,' advises Shlomo Cherniak.

While these are not the most attractive solutions, they are low-cost and practical. You may just use these when you are away or overnight. We recommend this magnetic fireplace blanket, from Amazon.

Alternatively, 'Adding glass doors to your fireplace can not only elevate its appearance but also help reduce drafts significantly when the fireplace is not active,' says Josh Mitchell.

8. Regular maintenance

'Another important aspect of draft-proofing a fireplace is proper maintenance,' says Alex Locklear, founder of NC Cash Homebuyers. 'Regular inspections and cleaning of your chimney and fireplace can help identify any issues that may be causing drafts, such as cracks in the chimney or damaged seals.

'Addressing these issues promptly can save you money on energy bills and prevent potential safety hazards.'

FAQs

Sometimes, the drafts may stem from the room's ventilation rather than the fireplace itself, so ensure your room has proper ventilation to maintain balanced air pressure.

The key to ensuring your basement is a space that seamlessly blends durability, moisture resistance and aesthetic appeal, is finding the right flooring.

Basements can be susceptible to a number of moisture and foundation issues due to being below ground level, which must be considered when choosing the right flooring, in addition to its installation and how the space will be used. With careful planning, you can choose the basement flooring type that balances your personal style and is the most suitable option for your basement's specific structural needs. 

Our experts have explained what to consider when choosing basement flooring and the best basement floors that will stand up to the test of time, while elevating the design and comfort of your basement.

The best basement floors

Whether you are converting your basement or installing new flooring due to damage, moisture concerns, or a desire to upgrade its appearance, it's essential to discern the key features that can withstand the challenges of below-ground spaces.

Consider the features to prioritize

Understanding the specific requirements of your basement allows you to choose the features and materials that can address these challenges, ensuring you choose a basement floor that meets not only your immediate needs but also withstands the ongoing challenges of a below-ground space. Here's how to choose the right one for you, so your household can really make the most of your basement. 

1. Moisture resistance

Basements are inherently prone to moisture, making waterproofing a basement a critical factor in selecting the best flooring. When choosing basement flooring, consider moisture levels, as they'll determine if subflooring and moisture barriers are needed.

Opt for flooring materials that withstand moisture and potential water exposure common in basements. Additionally, sealants and moisture barriers are key in preventing water damage. Epoxy flooring, laminate, and vinyl are great options.

It's also advisable to invest in proper basement drainage systems to further safeguard the space.

2. Evaluate installation and maintenance

Some options require professional installation and specific maintenance routines, so factor these into your decision-making process, ensuring you select flooring that aligns with ease of installation and maintenance. 

Interlocking vinyl planks or tiles are easy to install and DIY-friendly.

Maintenance is a significant aspect of any flooring choice, especially in basements where moisture and potential flooding can occur. For instance, sealed concrete floors or epoxy coatings provide a smooth surface that can be effortlessly cleaned, and are resistant to water damage.

3. Foundation considerations

Understanding the foundational structure is pivotal in selecting the right basement flooring. A solid foundation ensures the longevity of any flooring material. 

It's crucial to address any existing foundation issues before installing new floors. Consult foundation and waterproofing experts to assess and resolve any underlying concerns to prevent future damage to the flooring materials.

Materials such as engineered wood or laminate flooring, which can accommodate minor shifts in the foundation without compromising integrity, are great options if this is a concern.

4. Durability and longevity

Choose flooring that can endure heavy foot traffic and any other potential impacts.

Durable options such as porcelain tiles, luxury vinyl flooring, or engineered hardwood are resilient while maintaining an aesthetic appeal.

5. Insulation and comfort

Consider flooring materials that offer insulation properties to maintain a comfortable environment.

Carpeting or cork flooring not only insulates against cold but also provides a cozy feel underfoot.

6. Aesthetic considerations

When it comes to choosing the best basement floors, aesthetics play a crucial role in enhancing the overall appeal of the space, and coordinating basement flooring with your interior design is essential for a cohesive look.

You can choose materials with customizable designs such as sealed concrete, or those that offer a versatile range of styles, including materials like luxury vinyl tiles (LVT), stained concrete, or ceramic tiles.

'Opting for flooring materials that complement the existing interior design of the home is essential,' says Ben Gold, founder of Recommended Home Buyers. 'Choose flooring colors that complement the overall color scheme of the house. 

'Neutral tones are versatile and timeless.

'Additionally, maintain a consistent design style from upper floors to the basement. This creates a harmonious flow throughout the home.'

Best flooring materials

When considering basement floors, the choice of material is crucial. Here are some tips on different flooring options:

1. Vinyl Flooring

Known for its resilience and water resistance, vinyl flooring is a practical choice for basements, especially luxury vinyl tile (LVT) or luxury vinyl plank (LVP), due to their durability and appealing designs. 

'Luxury vinyl tile (LVT) is an excellent low-cost alternative that should not be overlooked,' says Jonathan Warshaw, home improvement expert and founder of Simple Woodworker. 'I particularly favor solid vinyl tiles over composite ones as they're more flexible and forgiving during installation, and they offer greater durability.

'They're also refinable to a certain extent. Plus, you get a variety of color options, though a classic black-and-white checkerboard pattern can be a timeless and appealing choice.'

'Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is a versatile and budget-friendly choice for basement floors. It is highly resistant to moisture, making it suitable for basements prone to dampness,' explains Michael Campbell, owner of SAT Stained Concrete. 

'LVP comes in a variety of styles, mimicking the appearance of hardwood, tile, or stone. It is durable, easy to clean, and can withstand heavy foot traffic. 

'Additionally, LVP provides warmth underfoot and can be installed as a floating floor, making it a popular choice for DIY projects.'

'Sheet vinyl has come a long way, and a lesser-known variant with a fiberglass backing deserves attention,' says Ritika Asrani, founder at St Maarten Real Estate. 'The fiberglass backing not only adds durability but also enhances the waterproofing capabilities. It provides a seamless and moisture-resistant flooring solution, making it an excellent choice for basements with occasional water exposure.'

These floors have DIY-friendly installation, are easy to clean, and are durable, making them the ideal option for families using the space for activities. 

2. Ceramic or porcelain tile flooring

'Tile flooring is an excellent option for basements as it is highly resistant to moisture and easy to clean,' advises Michael Campbell. 'Ceramic or porcelain tiles are durable and can withstand the test of time.

'They come in various styles, colors, and patterns, allowing you to achieve the desired aesthetic. 

'However, keep in mind that tile can be cold underfoot, so consider using area rugs or installing radiant floor heating for added comfort.' 

George Alvarez, owner of expert Epoxy Flooring adds, 'Installing a moisture barrier beneath the tiles can further protect against any potential water seepage.'  

3. Epoxy flooring

'Epoxy flooring is a resilient and waterproof option for basement floors. It consists of a resin and hardener mixture that creates a durable, seamless surface when applied,' explains George Alvarez. 

'Epoxy is resistant to stains, chemicals, and moisture, making it an excellent choice for basements that may be prone to spills or dampness. It also provides a smooth and glossy finish that can enhance the overall aesthetic of the space.' 

'It is available in a variety of colors and finishes, allowing you to customize the look of your basement,' adds Michael Campbell. 'However, professional installation is recommended as it requires proper surface preparation and application techniques.'

4. Engineered wood flooring

'While solid hardwood flooring may not be the best choice for basements due to its susceptibility to moisture, engineered wood flooring is a suitable alternative,' says George Alvarez.

'Engineered wood consists of a top layer of real wood veneer bonded to layers of plywood or high-density fiberboard, offering a more stable option for varying basement conditions. It provides the warmth and aesthetic appeal of real wood without the risk of warping or cupping.' 

'That extra stability also means each flooring plank can be longer and wider than traditional solid wood, so you’ll see more trend-forward looks in engineered hardwood flooring,' says Jennifer Meska, head of merchandising at LL Flooring.

'Unlike solid hardwood, engineered hardwood is constructed with multiple layers, making it more resistant to moisture and less likely to warp or buckle,' explains Michael Campbell. 'It can be installed as a floating floor or glued down, depending on the manufacturer's guidelines. 

'However, it is essential to ensure the basement is properly sealed and moisture levels are controlled to prevent damage to the wood.' 

'For a touch of eco-friendly luxury, consider reclaimed wood tiles with a marine-grade finish,' recommends Ritika Asrani. 'These tiles not only bring the charm of reclaimed wood but also boast a specialized marine finish that enhances waterproofing. It's a sustainable and unique choice for homeowners looking for a basement floor with character and resilience.

'Additionally, while bamboo is known for its sustainability, a lesser-known innovation is bamboo flooring with a nano-coating. This coating adds a microscopic protective layer, boosting its resistance to water and spills. It's another sleek and eco-friendly option for homeowners seeking a durable and water-resistant basement floor.'

5. Laminate flooring

'Laminate flooring is a cost-effective alternative to hardwood or stone and is a popular choice for basement environments,' says George Alvarez. 'It consists of layers of compressed fiberboard with a photographic image of wood or stone on top. 

'Laminate is resistant to moisture, easy to clean, and comes in a wide range of styles. It provides a budget-friendly option for achieving the look of more expensive flooring materials.'

Offering a wood-like appearance, laminate is affordable and easy to install. Ensure it has a moisture barrier to prevent issues in damp basements.

6. Seal concrete flooring

Polished, sealed concrete emerges as a durable and naturally water-resistant option. It provides a solid and stable foundation that can withstand heavy foot traffic.

For those who appreciate an industrial aesthetic, concrete floors can be left as is or enhanced with various finishes such as epoxy coatings or decorative overlays to add aesthetic appeal.

FAQs

Final tip: You can improve ventilation in your basement by using raised subfloor systems that allow air circulation, reducing the risk of mold and mildew. 

Heating a home has become more expensive for everybody, and it is safe to say that we are all looking for a way to enjoy our time indoors without feeling the freeze. The easiest way to do this is to make heating more efficient throughout your home, experts say.

No matter what kind of home heating type you have, there are usually a few ways you can spruce up your system to improve its efficiency and cut energy bills at the same time – many of which you can do yourself.

This is what HVAC experts do every year before heating their homes, and why it works so well to heat your home for less.

How to make heating more efficient 

Saving money at home should always start with basic maintenance, especially for your HVAC systems. This can range from utilizing some smart cleaning tips for heating vents to booking a service – this is what the experts suggest prioritizing.

1. Check your home's insulation and seals

Heating up your home will always prove more difficult (and more expensive) if the hot air escapes immediately through uninsulated roofs or gaps around doors and windows, reminds Eric Weiss, tech trainer at Trane Residential:

‘If your attic or crawlspace isn’t properly insulated, your heating system has to work harder to keep your home at a consistently comfortable temperature. The more it works, the more it costs you. If you live up north where it gets really cold, try adding extra insulation to your garage door, it can make a big difference.’

You can also do some DIY draft-proofing around doors and windows with draft excluders and weather stripping, perfect for stopping cold outside air from drastically cooling your home.

2. Install and program a thermostat

The biggest heating mistake people make is not using a programmable thermostat in their home, making their heating less efficient as they try to heat up rooms that don't need it – or let their rooms get too cold, says Glenn Wiseman, RASDT, RHDT, of Top Hat Home Comfort Services.

‘Programmable smart thermostats allow you to set different temperatures for different times of day or days of the week. For instance, while you're at work during the day, you can set your temperature lower than when you're at home, which will help reduce energy usage and lower your utility bill,’ he shares.

3. Change your air filters

Although your air filters may not sound like they are connected to keeping your home warm, any overworking component in your HVAC system will make it less efficient. As a result, cleaning or replacing these filters is essential, says Eric Weiss, tech trainer.

‘It’s easy to change your air filters by yourself, which I recommend doing about every 30-90 days (shorter if you have pets, longer if you don’t) to ensure they’re clean and to get ahead of seasonal change,’ he explains.

‘Doing so doesn’t require any tools and it will keep your HVAC running efficiently and improve your indoor air quality.’

4. Schedule a service and maintenance

When preparing your home for fall, or preparing a house for cold weather, it is worth scheduling a service for your home heating – be it a furnace, HVAC system, or boiler, says Andrei Jablokow, of WIN Home Inspection. This can make your radiators heat up faster, too.

‘Certified technicians can identify any issues, such as a malfunctioning thermostat, pilot light problems, or gas leaks, that might go unnoticed during a DIY inspection,’ they warn.

5. Check your vents aren’t obstructed

If you have floor heating vents throughout your property, it is essential to ensure they are free of obstructions and debris by both relocating furniture and cleaning them out, advises Brad Roberson, president at Aire Serv, a neighborly Company. This might mean adjusting your curtains, and moving large pieces of staple furniture and rugs, too, so remember to check beneath your floor coverings.

‘Regularly clean and dust the vents to prevent the accumulation of debris that can hinder air circulation,’ he adds. ‘You can also adjust and balance the airflow by partially closing vents in rooms that are seldom used and fully opening vents in frequently occupied spaces to channel most of the warm air to where you need it most without leaving some rooms freezing cold.’

It is especially important in the winter to check that you haven't made any common holiday decorating mistakes increasing bills, such as trees blocking vents and radiators.

6. Place reflective foil behind wall-mounted radiators

If your home has wall-mounted radiators as opposed to vents (something more common in older homes) then you might want to consider installing heat-reflective foil, available at Amazon, behind them to reflect heat back into the room.

These simple additions are incredibly affordable and are simple to cut to size and stick to the wall, preventing heat from leaching out of your space before it has the chance to warm up your room, says Millie Hurst, Solved section editor for Homes & Gardens.

‘Done right and with the proper attention, you don't even notice they are there, either,’ she adds.

FAQs

When keeping your house warm without turning up the heat, these maintenance tips are only the tip of the iceberg. It is also essential to invest in quality home furnishings such as natural throws to help you feel cozier, and wool rugs to insulate your floors. Thermal curtains are also a must to help lower heating costs in winter, and you could even pair them with insulating window film for an extra level of heat retention.