With the holidays still months away, your Christmas cactus may not be top of mind. But August is one of the most important months in its growing cycle. While your plant is focused on producing new stems rather than flower buds, the care you provide now will have a direct impact on how well it blooms later in the year.

Whether your Christmas cactus spends the summer indoors or you've moved it outside to enjoy the warmer weather, now is the perfect time to fine-tune your Christmas cactus care routine. A few small adjustments in August can help your plant stay healthy through late summer and set it up for a spectacular display of blooms when the holiday season arrives.

1. Water Consistently, But Let the Soil Dry Slightly

Unlike desert cacti, Christmas cacti (Schlumbergera) are native to the humid rainforests of southeastern Brazil, where they naturally grow on trees rather than in dry, sandy soil. During August, your plant is still actively growing, so it appreciates consistent moisture.

Knowing how to water a Christmas cactus is key at this stage. Water thoroughly when the top inch of potting mix feels dry, allowing excess water to drain away completely. Avoid letting the pot sit in standing water, as overly wet soil can lead to root rot.

If you’re unsure when to water, a moisture meter can help take the guesswork out of your routine. The VIVOSUN Plant Moisture Meter Light and pH Tester from The Home Depot lets you check soil moisture levels before watering, helping prevent overwatering.

If your Christmas cactus needs repotting after flowering, a well-draining mix can help support healthy roots. The Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix from Amazon is designed to improve drainage and is a useful option for cacti and succulents.

For many U.S. gardeners, August also brings high temperatures and air-conditioned homes, which can affect how quickly potting mix dries. Rather than watering on a fixed schedule, check the soil regularly and adjust as needed.

2. Fertilize Before Bud Formation Begins

Late summer is typically the last chance to feed your Christmas cactus before it begins transitioning toward its flowering cycle. Apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength every two to four weeks while the plant is actively growing. Once flower buds begin to form in early fall, stop fertilizing so the plant can direct its energy toward blooming rather than producing new foliage.

A gentle, balanced fertilizer can help support healthy stems and encourage stronger growth before the blooming season begins. The Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from The Home Depot is an easy-to-use liquid option that can be diluted and added during your regular watering routine. For a more organic approach, the Espoma Organic Indoor Plant Food from Amazon provides a slow, steady source of nutrients to support houseplants through the growing season.

Avoid overfeeding your Christmas cactus, as too much fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers. The goal in August is to give your plant the nutrients it needs now, while allowing it to naturally shift its focus toward producing holiday blooms later in the year.

3. Give It Bright, Indirect Light

Christmas cacti thrive in bright, indirect light, so where to place a Christmas cactus matters. An east-facing window is often ideal, while south- or west-facing windows may need a sheer curtain to protect leaves from harsh afternoon sun.

If you've moved your Christmas cactus outdoors for summer, keep it in a shaded or partially shaded spot and bring it indoors before temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).

As fall approaches, light becomes key for blooming. The Christmas cactus in the dark method involves giving your plant around 12–14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night to encourage flower buds to form. If your home lacks suitable light, the GE Full Spectrum LED Grow Light from Amazon can help supplement daytime light while keeping its nighttime routine consistent.

4. Resist the Urge to Repot

If your Christmas cactus looks healthy, August isn't the time to give it a larger container. These plants tend to bloom best when they are slightly root-bound, and disturbing the roots too close to flowering season can interrupt bud production.

However, if you’re wondering when to repot a Christmas cactus, it’s usually best to wait until after the plant has finished blooming. Only repot sooner if roots are growing through the drainage holes or the potting mix has broken down and is no longer draining well.

5. Prepare for the Blooming Season

Although flower buds usually begin forming in early fall, August is the perfect time to prepare. Christmas cacti need approximately 12 to 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night, along with cooler nighttime temperatures, to trigger blooming.

As summer comes to an end, decide where your plant will spend the fall and avoid moving it once buds begin to develop, as sudden changes in light, temperature, or humidity can cause buds to drop.

If your home is naturally bright in the evenings, the simple Aokrean Grow Lights for Indoor Plants from Amazon can help provide consistent daytime light while allowing you to control the plant’s essential dark period.

Your Christmas cactus may not be putting on its holiday display just yet, but August is when it is quietly preparing for the months ahead. By watering carefully, feeding while it is actively growing, providing plenty of bright, indirect light, and avoiding unnecessary repotting, you’ll give your plant the best chance of rewarding you with vibrant blooms when the holiday season arrives.

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Hydrangeas are a favorite among American gardeners, prized for their large, showy flower heads and their ability to transform throughout the growing season. From classic blue and pink mophead blooms to creamy white panicle varieties, these garden staples bring lasting color to landscapes across the country. But many homeowners are surprised when their once-bright hydrangea flowers begin turning green.

Understanding why hydrangea flowers change color is an important part of good hydrangea care. Factors such as the age of the blooms, seasonal changes, sunlight, soil conditions, and the specific hydrangea variety can all play a role.

By providing the right growing conditions, you can keep your hydrangeas healthy while enjoying the changing color of hydrangeas and the range of shades they display from summer into fall.

Green Hydrangea Blooms Are Often a Natural Part of the Plant’s Life Cycle

One of the most common reasons hydrangea flowers turn green is simply that the blooms are maturing. As flower heads age, the pigments responsible for their original colors can begin to fade, allowing green tones to become more noticeable.

This color shift is especially common in bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla), including many popular mophead and lacecap varieties grown throughout the United States. A bloom that starts the summer in shades of blue, pink, or purple may gradually develop soft green tones as the season progresses.

Rather than being a sign that something is wrong, green flowers often indicate that the plant is moving into a new stage of blooming. Many gardeners appreciate this transition because the muted green shades add a sophisticated look to late-season gardens and floral arrangements.

Changing Weather and Light Conditions Can Influence Hydrangea Color

Hydrangeas respond to changes in their environment, and shifts in weather, temperature, and daylight can affect how their blooms appear. As summer moves toward fall, cooler nights and changing light levels can encourage flowers to take on green hues.

In many parts of the U.S., hydrangeas experience noticeable color changes toward the end of the growing season. A plant that produces bright blooms in early summer may naturally develop softer, antique-looking shades later on.

These seasonal changes are one reason hydrangeas remain such popular landscape plants. Their flowers can provide interest for months, offering a constantly changing display rather than a single burst of color.

While you cannot control every change in flower color, providing consistent moisture can help support healthy blooms during hot or dry weather. It is important to know when and how to water hydrangeas, too. Hydrangeas generally prefer evenly moist soil, although they should not sit in waterlogged conditions.

If you are unsure whether the soil around your hydrangea is actually dry, the Luster Leaf 1810 Rapitest Soil Moisture Tester from The Home Depot can help take some of the guesswork out of watering. The simple probe measures moisture in the soil and can help you avoid both underwatering and overwatering. It is particularly useful during a heat wave, when the soil surface may look dry even though there is still moisture around the roots.

For larger hydrangea borders, the Vigoro Heavy Duty Garden Drip Irrigation Soaker Hose is another useful option. A soaker hose delivers water slowly along its length, helping moisture reach the root zone rather than wetting the flowers and foliage. This can make it easier to maintain consistent soil moisture during long periods of hot, dry weather.

Some Hydrangea Varieties Naturally Produce Green Blooms

While many hydrangea flowers turn green as they mature, some varieties are naturally known for their green or green-tinged blooms. Certain cultivars begin with pale green flowers before changing color, while others retain their green tones for much of the growing season.

‘Limelight’ hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) is one of the best-known examples. Its large, cone-shaped blooms emerge a fresh lime green, fade to creamy white, and gradually develop soft pink tones as the season progresses. The Proven Winners® Limelight Hydrangea Tree from Fast-Growing Trees is the variety I grow in my own yard, and I love how its changing flowers provide interest from summer well into fall.

I’m also a fan of the Endless Summer® The Original Reblooming Hydrangea from Fast-Growing Trees, one of the most popular bigleaf hydrangea varieties. It begins blooming in early summer and can continue producing flowers through fall, offering a much longer display than many traditional hydrangeas. Its flowers can appear blue or pink depending on soil conditions, although, like many hydrangeas, the blooms may also develop green tones as they mature.

Choosing the right variety is an important part of successful hydrangea care. Before planting, consider your USDA hardiness zone, the amount of sun your garden receives, the plant’s mature size, and how its flower color may change throughout the growing season.

Do Green Hydrangea Flowers Mean Your Plant Has a Problem?

A common gardening misconception is that green hydrangea blooms indicate a nutrient deficiency, poor soil, or a need for extra hydrangea fertilizer. In most cases, this is not true. A healthy hydrangea can produce green flowers even when it is receiving everything it needs.

Instead of trying to change the color of aging blooms, focus on maintaining the overall health of your plant. Good hydrangea care includes:

• Keeping the soil consistently moist but well-drained.
• Adding compost or organic matter to improve soil quality.
• Providing the correct amount of sunlight for your hydrangea variety.
• Applying fertilizer only when needed and following product directions.
• Pruning at the appropriate time to encourage healthy growth.

Healthy plants are better able to produce strong, long-lasting blooms throughout the growing season.

Can You Keep Hydrangeas From Turning Green?

You may not be able to prevent a natural color change, but proper care can help your hydrangeas produce healthy, long-lasting blooms. Providing consistent moisture, suitable light, and well-prepared soil will give your plants the best chance to thrive. For gardeners hoping to influence the color of their flowers, it is important to understand that changing blue hydrangeas to pink, or pink hydrangeas to blue, is different from preventing mature blooms from turning green.

Some bigleaf hydrangeas can change from pink to blue depending on soil acidity and the availability of aluminum. More acidic soil can encourage blue hydrangea flowers in varieties that are capable of changing color, while more alkaline soil can encourage pink blooms.

The Espoma Organic Soil Acidifier from Walmart is designed for acid-loving plants, including hydrangeas, and can be used to lower soil pH. However, it is not a treatment for green flowers. If your hydrangea blooms have turned green because they are naturally maturing, adding a soil acidifier will not return them to their original color.

Before applying any product to alter soil pH, test your soil and check that your particular hydrangea variety is capable of changing from pink to blue. White hydrangeas generally do not change color in response to soil pH, and changing soil conditions unnecessarily can create problems for other plants growing nearby.

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A hydrangea with green blooms is not a sign that your plant is struggling. In fact, these soft green flowers can become one of the most attractive stages of the growing season.

Green hydrangea blooms complement fall foliage, woodland-style landscapes, and natural garden designs. They also make excellent cut flowers, whether displayed fresh in arrangements or dried for long-lasting decor.

The next time your hydrangeas turn green, don’t rush to fix them. Instead, enjoy the transformation. Those changing shades are part of what makes hydrangeas such beloved garden plants – offering beauty, texture, and seasonal interest long after their first blooms appear.

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Delphiniums are one of the standout flowers of midsummer, bringing vertical interest and classic cottage garden charm to borders. But by July, many gardeners begin to notice fading blooms, drooping stems, or foliage struggling under the pressure of soaring temperatures.

Whether you're growing tall Pacific Giant cultivars, compact varieties for smaller yards, or other popular delphinium types, July is a crucial month for maintaining their health and appearance. Knowing how to care for delphiniums during periods of intense heat can make the difference between plants that fade quickly and those that continue performing well into late summer.

This month is all about helping plants recover from their first spectacular display while protecting them from summer stress. With much of the US experiencing hotter-than-average temperatures and prolonged dry spells, a few timely maintenance jobs can encourage a second flush of flowers and keep plants healthy for the rest of the season.

Here are the five jobs gardening experts recommend tackling now.

1. Deadhead Spent Flower Spikes to Encourage a Second Flush

The biggest July job is removing faded flower spikes as soon as they've finished blooming. If you're looking for plants to deadhead in July, delphiniums should be high on your list, as timely pruning can encourage a welcome second display later in the season.

'Deadheading is the most important thing you can do for delphiniums in July,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'Many varieties will reward you with a second, lighter flush of flowers later in the summer if you cut back the spent spikes before the plant starts putting energy into producing seed.'

To cut back delphiniums correctly, wait until most of the florets on a flower spike have faded, then cut the stem back to a healthy side shoot or down to the base if no new growth is visible. A sharp pair of Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon and The Home Depot, will make clean cuts that are less likely to damage stems. If your delphiniums have reached their full height, it's also worth checking their supports while you're pruning. Grow-Through Plant Supports, sold at Amazon, help keep tall flower spikes upright through summer downpours and strong winds.

'Don't be tempted to leave the seedheads for too long if repeat blooms are your goal,' Rachel adds. 'The sooner you deadhead, the better the chances of encouraging fresh flowering.'

2. Water Deeply During Heatwaves

While delphiniums appreciate consistently moist soil, they're not particularly tolerant of prolonged drought. During periods of extreme heat, they can quickly become stressed, causing blooms to fade early and foliage to wilt, so knowing how to water in hot weather is key to keeping plants healthy through July.

'If you're experiencing a heatwave, deep watering is far more effective than little and often,' says Rachel Bull. 'Aim to soak the soil once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and your soil type, so moisture reaches the deeper roots.'

Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and help plants cope with rising daytime temperatures. A Gilmour Heavy Duty Adjustable Metal Hose Nozzle, available from Amazon and Walmart, makes it easy to switch between a gentle shower for soaking borders and a stronger stream for other watering jobs around the yard.

Adding a two- to three-inch layer of compost or other organic mulch around the base will also help conserve soil moisture, regulate root temperatures, and reduce the need for frequent watering throughout the hottest weeks of summer.

3. Check Supports Before Summer Storms

July often brings intense thunderstorms across much of the US, and tall delphinium flower spikes are particularly vulnerable to strong winds and heavy rain. Even if you staked plants earlier in the season, now is the time to make sure supports are still doing their job.

Soft twine, bamboo canes, or grow-through plant supports all work well, provided stems have enough room to move naturally without rubbing. A pack of Ecostakes Bamboo Garden Stakes, available from The Home Depot, is an inexpensive and versatile option for supporting tall delphiniums, while soft garden ties can be used to gently secure stems without damaging them.

4. Feed After Flowering to Support Fresh Growth

Once you've deadheaded the first flush, giving plants a light feed can help fuel new shoots and encourage repeat flowering. A balanced fertilizer or one that's slightly higher in potassium is ideal after flowering, as it helps plants recover without encouraging lots of soft, leafy growth that can struggle during hot weather.

Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food, available from Amazon, is a popular option for supporting flowering plants and can help provide the nutrients delphiniums need as they recover from their first bloom cycle.

Always water well after feeding, particularly if temperatures are high, to help nutrients reach the root zone without scorching stressed roots.

5. Keep an Eye Out for Powdery Mildew

Hot days followed by humid nights create ideal conditions for powdery mildew, one of the most common problems affecting delphiniums in midsummer. Good airflow is one of your best defenses, so remove any badly affected leaves, avoid overhead watering where possible, and make sure neighboring plants aren't becoming overcrowded.

It's also worth checking for slugs and snails around fresh new shoots after deadheading. Although they're more active in spring, they can still damage tender regrowth later in the season. For an easy, targeted solution, Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available from Amazon, can help tackle soft-bodied summer garden pests while being gentle enough for use around ornamental plants.

The key to keeping delphiniums thriving through summer is avoiding a few simple mistakes. Don't allow plants to dry out completely during hot spells, as drought stress can shorten flowering and reduce the chance of a second flush.

Stay on top of deadheading, too – removing spent spikes promptly encourages fresh growth rather than seed production. And resist cutting back healthy foliage too early, as the remaining leaves continue to feed the plant and store energy for next year's blooms.

In the intense July heat we're experiencing, our plants need a little extra love. This is especially true for climbers like clematis which quickly lose water and fade without the right summer care.

Growing a clematis is highly rewarding, looking beautiful on a pergola, fence, or trellis. But, in summer heat and sun, it's important to keep this flowering vine hydrated, provide just the right amount of shade, and do some light pruning to encourage repeat blooms – having these Fiskars micro snips from Amazon to hand is helpful for quick deadheading.

So, if your clematis is starting to look a little tired, keep reading. Here's exactly what to do with clematis in July to help it through a heatwave and keep it looking good for several more weeks.

1. Water Deeply

When it comes to watering plants in hot weather, there are a few key tips to follow. This includes deeply watering your clematis to properly hydrate its roots, which don't cope well with drought.

'Clematis does best with consistent moisture, especially when newly planted,' says Rachel Bull, Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens. 'Deep watering not only ensures roots stay hydrated, it also encourages roots to dig deeper in the soil for moisture, resulting in a more robust root system that can cope better with dry spells,' she explains.

You should avoid splashing foliage when watering your clematis, using a watering can (like this beautiful metal one from Walmart) to target the base. This will prevent issues like leaf scorch and powdery mildew.

It's also best to water early in the morning to protect your plants from a heatwave, as this allows them to soak up moisture before the heat of the day arrives. Watering in the middle of the day results in water quickly evaporating before the roots can soak it up.

You should use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Amazon) to check your clematis soil a couple of times a week. When the top 2-4 inches of soil have dried out, it's time to top up water levels.

2. Keep the Roots Cool

'One thing that makes summer clematis care so particular is the fact its roots want different conditions to the vines,' says Rachel.

'The foliage and flowers enjoy direct sun, but you should keep clematis roots cool and shaded. If roots are baking in the sun, they'll dry out too quickly and dehydrate,' she explains.

There are a few things you can do to regulate soil temperature for your clematis in July. This includes mulching with organic material like this brown mulch from Lowe's.

Alternatively, you can grow some ground cover plants around the base of your clematis to provide natural shade and keep the soil cool.

This will lock in moisture and keep the root system hydrated and cool, while the vines can grow upward into the sun to bring out vibrant blooms.

3. Deadhead Faded Blooms

When you prune your clematis all depends on the variety you have.

Spring-flowering clematis (like this Armandii Snowdrift Clematis from Plant Addicts) will need light pruning now to remove faded blooms and any damaged or overcrowded vines.

Likewise, you can deadhead clematis that is a repeat summer-flowering variety to encourage a second flush of blooms. One of the best repeat bloomers is the plum-red Rebecca Clematis, available at Plant Addicts.

'You should always use clean and sharp pruning tools when tending to your garden plants,' says Rachel. 'For deadheading clematis, you can use garden snips (like these Felco snips from Amazon) because they have soft, pliable stems. Follow the flower stem down to the first set of lateral buds to make a cut. This is where new growth will emerge later in the season,' she advises.

4. Tie In New Shoots

Clematis tends to have a growth spurt in summer, growing vigorously with new shoots that need to be tied in and supported.

'Leaving new shoots alone can result in a tangled mess and damage,' Rachel warns. 'To prevent this, you should check your clematis weekly in summer and tie in where needed,' she adds.

You should use jute twine or garden soft ties (like these from Amazon) to ensure they don't cut into the plant stems and cause damage.

Aim to spread the shoots across the support in the direction you want it to grow, to avoid bunching and tangling.

Young shoots are brittle and can easily snap, so handle with care and tie loosely to prevent damage. A figure-of-eight loop is often recommended to provide room for stems to grow without restraint.

5. Fertilize Repeat Bloomers

With clematis actively growing in summer, it can help to regularly feed it to provide a boost of essential plant nutrients. Repeat blooming varieties in particular benefit from this, to encourage a second flush of flowers later in the season.

'To fertilize clematis in July, use a liquid clematis feed (like this on Amazon) every 2-4 weeks,' says Rachel. 'You want a feed that is high in potassium and phosphorus to encourage blooming, rather than a nitrogen-rich fertilizer,' she explains.

However, if you're experiencing a heatwave, it's wise to delay feeding. When plants are already stressed and under such harsh conditions, fertilizer may burn roots and cause foliage to yellow.

As we progress later into summer it's best to stop feeding your clematis, as it's slowing down and preparing for dormancy.

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If you find your clematis has yellow and brown leaves in summer, it could be a sign of heat stress. Make sure to increase watering during hot, dry spells and provide more shade to the roots to keep them cool. It could also be a sign of summer garden pest damage, so look on the underside of leaves where they might be hiding.

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Lavender is one of the most drought-tolerant plants you can grow, but even this Mediterranean favorite can benefit from the right watering routine during prolonged hot spells. The trick is knowing when to step in – and when to leave it alone. Too much water is far more likely to damage lavender than too little, especially during summer.

Whether you're growing lavender in borders, gravel gardens or containers, understanding how to water it correctly will help keep plants healthy, fragrant and covered in flowers. While established lavender rarely needs frequent irrigation, heatwaves and extended periods of drought can sometimes call for a different approach.

To find out exactly how often to water lavender in summer, we asked gardening experts to explain how to water plants in hot weather, the warning signs of overwatering, and the simple techniques that will help your lavender thrive through the hottest weather. (And to get started, this is our favorite metal watering can, available from Wayfair, which doubles as a stylish patio feature.)

How Often To Water Lavender in the Ground

Lavender is a drought tolerant plant that hails from the Mediterranean, an area where there is a lot of heat and the soil is poor. It is a plant that does not need much watering and overwatering is a common lavender growing mistake. Water it too much and it can cause root rot, which can seriously damage plants.

The first thing to recommend using if you're not sure how much water to give your lavender is a moisture meter. A great example is this long probe moisture meter, available from Amazon. It can quickly and easily give instant results, and is ideal for deeper pots or for use out in the yard.

Hillary Alger, Flower Product Manager at Johnny’s Selected Seeds, describes lavender as a ‘low-water needs plant’ that is particular about its needs. She says: ‘Plants need ample water, but containers and soil should be well drained. Lavender doesn’t like to have roots constantly drenched.’

Any newly planted lavender should be watered once or twice a week during its first summer.

When the lavender is established then its watering requirements drop. It makes lavender perfect for drought tolerant planting ideas, as it does not need regular watering when established.

It can tolerate dry periods and only really needs watering during extended periods of drought, for example, if there has been no rain for two weeks. In which case, water early in the morning.

In extreme summer heat when watering lots of plants, it helps to have a really good hose, such as the Flexzilla hose from Amazon. It's easy to store, and super lightweight.

How Often To Water Lavender in Pots

When growing lavender in pots, plants need watering more often than those growing in the ground, particularly during periods of hot, dry weather.

Containers dry out much faster, but it's still important to resist watering too frequently. Lavender prefers relatively dry conditions, and constantly damp compost is one of the quickest ways to weaken or kill the plant.

When watering plants in containers, check the compost before reaching for the watering can. Push a finger a couple of inches below the surface – while the top layer may appear dry, there can still be plenty of moisture around the roots.

Alternatively, use a digital moisture meter (available from Ace Hardware) to test the soil.

When it is time to water, soak the compost thoroughly until water begins to drain from the holes in the base of the pot. This deep watering encourages roots to grow down through the container, helping plants become more resilient during summer heat.

It's a good idea to place your pots on metal stands or pot feet, such as these ones from Walmart, to improve drainage and prevent waterlogging.

Allow the compost to dry out again before repeating the process. In the height of a heatwave this may mean watering every few days, whereas in cooler weather established potted lavender may only need a thorough soak every couple of weeks.

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Lavender is a really low-maintenance aromatic herb that is perfect for any herb garden ideas.

However, it is possible to overwater it. Watering the plant too regularly, or failing to provide it with soil that drains very well, can both contribute to lavender becoming overwatered.

The signs that a lavender plant is being overwatered will include yellowing or browning leaves, drooping leaves and stems, mold on the surface of the sodden soil. Thankfully, it can recover well. Make sure any container has drainage holes in the bottom and you give lavender a very free-draining soil mix.

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Wisteria may be famous for its spectacular spring flowers, but July is the month when a little care can make all the difference to next year's display. As summer temperatures climb – with parts of the US experiencing intense heat dome conditions and prolonged heatwaves – gardeners need to pay closer attention to watering, pruning, and protecting plants from heat stress.

While established wisteria is a resilient climber, extreme heat can put even mature plants under pressure. The right approach to wisteria care in July will help keep growth healthy, prevent the plant from becoming unruly, and encourage a stronger flush of flowers next spring.

1. Give Wisteria Its Summer Prune

One of the most important jobs for wisteria in July is the summer prune. If you're wondering when to prune wisteria, midsummer is the ideal time to tackle the long, fast-growing shoots that appear after flowering. Left unchecked, these can become tangled and overgrown, directing the plant's energy into leafy growth rather than the short flowering spurs that produce next year's blooms.

Using clean, sharp secateurs, such as the Felco No. 2 Pruning Shears from Amazon, trim the new side shoots back to around five or six leaves from the main framework of the plant. This keeps the climber looking tidy, improves airflow, and helps sunlight reach the structure of the plant, while also encouraging more prolific flowering next spring.

Avoid cutting back the main woody branches unless necessary. Wisteria's permanent framework is the foundation for future flowering, so it is best to shape rather than drastically reduce the plant during summer.

2. Protect Wisteria During Extreme Heat

With heat domes and record-breaking summer temperatures affecting many parts of the US, keeping garden plants hydrated has become more important than ever. Although established wisteria is generally drought-tolerant, periods of extreme heat can cause stress, particularly for younger plants and those growing in containers.

When it comes to watering wisteria, the aim is to water deeply and thoroughly during dry spells rather than little and often, encouraging roots to grow deeper into the soil. If you're wondering how to water your garden in a heatwave, the same principle applies: water early in the morning or later in the evening when temperatures are cooler and evaporation is lower. A watering wand, such as the Gilmour Pro Power Jet Water Wand, makes it easier to deliver water directly to the base of climbing plants without wetting the foliage.

Container-grown wisteria may need watering more frequently because pots dry out quickly in hot weather. For larger gardens, a soaker hose, such as the DRAMM ColorStorm Premium Soaker Hose, provides a slow, consistent soak directly to the roots while minimizing water loss. Finish by adding a layer of organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture and keep the roots cool, leaving a small gap around the stem to prevent excess dampness and rot.

3. Train And Tie In New Growth

July is an ideal time to train and tie in wisteria's vigorous summer growth. If you're learning how to grow wisteria, training the plant while its new stems are still flexible is one of the best ways to create a strong, attractive framework. Direct shoots along pergolas, walls, fences, or trellis supports, encouraging even coverage as the plant matures.

Loosely secure new growth with soft plant ties, such as Velcro Brand Garden Ties from Amazon, leaving enough room for the stems to thicken without becoming constricted. Regularly training the plant throughout the summer will help maintain its shape, improve airflow, and reduce the need for heavier pruning later in the season.

If your wisteria is still becoming established, make sure it's growing against a sturdy support, such as a heavy-duty expanding willow or steel garden trellis, which will be strong enough to support the considerable weight of a mature plant.

4. Feed Carefully For Future Flowers

Wisteria usually does not require heavy feeding in July. If you're wondering when to fertilize wisteria, midsummer is a time to take a light-touch approach. Too much nitrogen can encourage an abundance of leaves and vigorous shoots while reducing flower production the following spring.

If your plant is growing in poor soil, choose a fertilizer that's lower in nitrogen and richer in potassium to support flower bud development rather than leafy growth. Espoma Organic Flower-Tone is a good all-purpose choice for flowering plants, providing a slow-release feed that encourages abundant blooms without excessive foliage.

For plants that need an extra potassium boost, Espoma Potash (0-0-60) can help improve plant vigor, drought tolerance and flower production, making it a useful option during periods of summer heat. Always follow the application instructions and water well after feeding.

Healthy, established wisteria growing in fertile soil often performs well without regular feeding, so avoid over-fertilizing. Instead, focus on annual pruning, deep watering during prolonged dry spells and growing your plant in a sunny position to encourage the best floral display.

5. Check For Signs Of Heat Stress

During periods of extreme summer weather, it's important to watch for heat stress in plants, including wisteria. Wilting, scorched leaf edges, curling foliage and premature yellowing can all be signs that your climber is struggling with excessive heat or inconsistent watering.

If your wisteria shows signs of stress during a heatwave, avoid heavy pruning until temperatures moderate, as this can place additional strain on the plant. Instead, focus on maintaining consistent soil moisture, protecting the roots with a layer of organic mulch and watering deeply when needed.

A mulch such as Scotts Color Advantage Mulch from The Home Depot helps insulate the soil and reduce moisture loss during prolonged hot spells. In contrast, a soil moisture meter, such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, takes the guesswork out of watering by indicating when the root zone is beginning to dry out.

With the right care, most established wisteria will recover well once temperatures cool, allowing the plant to continue storing energy for next spring's spectacular floral display.

The work you do on wisteria in July can have a direct impact on its performance next year. By controlling vigorous summer growth, encouraging the formation of flowering spurs and keeping the plant healthy through periods of hot weather, you’ll help create a stronger, more abundant spring display. With the right support and a little seasonal care, wisteria can remain one of the garden’s most spectacular features – even through challenging summers and periods of extreme heat.

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Heatwaves are becoming more common, making it crucial to understand the intricacies of watering plants in hot weather. Get it right, and your plants can thrive even in soaring temperatures. But get it wrong, however, and plants will struggle and potentially die in dry soil.

Best practise is to water early in the morning, water deeply, mulch to retain moisture in the soil, and keep a closer eye on pots that can dry out in the blink of an eye. What you shouldn’t do is water at the hottest time of the day and just give a light sprinkling, which does your plants no good.

Here we look at when to water a garden during periods of extreme heat and how to gauge the right amount of moisture to give them. These two factors are always integral to how your garden copes in a heatwave. As our summers get hotter, the following factors will make a big difference to your plants.

A classic metal watering can, like this one at Walmart, is a proven go-to watering tool for vegetable gardens, flower containers, or balcony planters.

Do Water Early in the Morning

During hot weather, you want to ensure that whatever watering you do is efficient and the most water possible is available to the plants. The simplest and most effective way to ensure that is to water at the best time of the day.

If you water in the morning or late in the evening, you prevent the rapid evaporation of water that occurs through watering in the height of the sun. The temperature is also cooler at that time of day, and your plants are in the best condition to absorb any moisture in the soil.

Watering the plants early in the day, in particular, can help set them up ready to face the hotter weather that’ll arrive in the upcoming hours.

While first thing in the morning is best, watering in the evening is also a good option, though it can bring additional risk as foliage sits damp overnight, which can attract fungal diseases.

By watering in the morning, you allow foliage to dry out completely during the day, which significantly reduces the risk of fungal diseases. A programmable timer like this on Amazon can be used to schedule your automatic irrigation for the morning.

Don't Water Plants at the Peak of the Day

If you water during the peak midday sun, during the hottest part of the day, it offers no benefits to you or your plants. Not only are you subjecting yourself to the worst of the sun and potentially having to manhandle heavy watering cans in the heat, but it does no good to your plants and can even scar them.

Sean Lade, irrigation expert and director of Easy Garden Irrigation, stresses that gardeners need to ‘avoid watering in the heat of the day’. He adds: ‘Watering at midday when the sun is at its peak can lead to rapid evaporation, reducing the amount of water that reaches the roots.

‘Also, water droplets on the leaves can act as tiny magnifying glasses, which can lead to leaf scorch.’

To avoid leaf scorch, always water the base of the plants. Aim the watering can or hose at the bottom of the plants rather than watering the foliage. Not only can soaking the leaves lead to leaf scorch, but it can also make the plants more susceptible to fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew.

A watering wand can be attached to a garden hose to easily direct water at the base of plants, while it can also reach hard-to-reach areas and hanging baskets. An example of such a wand is this telescopic watering wand, available at Amazon.

Do Water Deeply

Plants always benefit more from deep watering than lighter, more frequent irrigation. This is definitely the case when watering plants in hot weather, but also an important point to remember whenever you are out watering.

By watering plants deeply, you encourage them to grow stronger, deeper roots. This makes the plants more resilient to dry conditions as those roots can seek out any moisture deeper in the soil.

Watering deeply also increases the likelihood that the water reaches the root zone, where your plants need it most. This is better than the water simply sitting on the surface and disappearing to evaporation once the temperatures rise.

A soaker hose is a great watering tool for steadily applying water directly to the soil, and you can get a 25-foot soaker hose at Walmart that will slowly release water to the roots.

Don't Just Water the Surface

If you just water the surface, then it can cause multiple issues for plants. One is that the water you are applying will not adequately hydrate the roots, leaving them unable to tolerate increased temperatures.

Mark Lane, award-winning garden designer, author, and TV presenter, recommends not to ‘water a little at a time’ or you will likely see the consequences of that when a heatwave strikes.

He adds: ‘It is better for the plant to water well and deeply. Keeping the soil moist will prevent heat stress, which can be seen by wilting foliage. If soil dries out and water is lost, the condition of the plants will worsen, turning them brown and crunchy.’

Plants given lighter sprinkles of moisture will have smaller root systems, making them more at risk when the top inch or so of soil dries out during a heatwave. It also makes the plant more prone to being topped and roots snapping in strong winds.

Do Mulch to Retain Moisture

Mulching helps to retain water in the soil for longer and makes it available to plants. It can be invaluable to keep soil moist in summer when plants are likely to be extra thirsty.

Michael O’Brien, a garden designer in Los Angeles, California, recommends: ‘Apply organic mulch around your plants to help retain moisture in the soil. Mulch acts as a protective barrier, preventing excessive evaporation and keeping the soil temperature more stable.’

By mulching, you are offering many benefits to your plants during a heatwave. You are conserving moisture and reducing evaporation, but also keeping the soil cooler, which protects the plants from heat stress.

Mulching also suppresses weeds, which prevents them from competing with your garden plants for water. It means the water you are applying in summer exclusively benefits those plants, rather than being stolen by unwanted weeds.

Put a layer 2-4 inches deep of organic types of mulch, such as compost, wood chips (like this Miracle-Gro all-natural mulch from The Home Depot), or straw, around plants. A bonus is that the mulch will also add nutrients to the soil as it breaks down.

Don't Unnecessarily Overwater

Overwatering can be as bad as underwatering; both are common garden watering mistakes capable of killing plants. It can often be a case of overcompensating in hot weather, unwittingly thinking your plants need extra water due to the heat.

However, overwatering leads to root rot and other issues. Putting excess moisture in the soil, more than plants need, causes stunted growth and stressed plants that are more susceptible to pests and fungal diseases.

Always check the soil’s moisture level before watering. A good way to check, especially when watering plants in containers, is to use your fingers to check the moisture levels a few inches under the surface.

Or use a moisture meter to check at a depth in the soil. If the soil is still damp, then wait another day or two before watering. A meter such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter, available at Amazon, can help you get instant results in the ground or in containers.

Do Check Pots Regularly

‘Most importantly, don’t forget about your potted outdoor plants. They require more water than the plants in the ground,’ warns Michael O’Brien. ‘Ensure your containers have proper drainage holes and monitor their moisture levels more frequently. Adjust the watering frequency to prevent the soil from completely drying out.’

When temperatures spike, plants in container gardens suffer more quickly than those in flower beds or borders. The deep soil of borders, or even raised beds, can hold moisture deeper down; however, in pots there is a finite amount of soil and moisture.

Moisture can be depleted quickly during a heatwave, leaving plants at risk of heat stress and wilting. Careful, regular observation is recommended during hot weather.

Jason Wilkinson, founder of Qwickhose, recommends: ‘For any plants in containers, it’s also better to water these twice daily to ensure they are getting enough moisture, as soil dries out much quicker in pots.'

Make sure to give pots a good soak as underwatering is a common container gardening mistake. The best approach is to thoroughly soak the root ball until water runs out of the pot's drainage holes.

Don't Forget to Move Pots

One of the simplest things to do with plants in containers is to move them to a shadier spot ahead of a heatwave. Moving those pots out of direct sunlight and into garden shade can reduce their heat exposure.

Keeping containers in full sun is a common mistake gardeners make during a heatwave, and it can kill plants. The pots themselves can get incredibly hot, especially black planters. That causes problems for the plants in them as their roots bake.

Mark Lane warns that, as extreme temperatures can ‘cause heat stress, stunt growth and premature death’, it makes it important that heat-sensitive plants are protected from excessive sun.

He also recommends ‘position all plants in a shadier spot when watering’ to ensure they take in all of the moisture given to them.

When it comes to indoor plants and hot weather, he adds: ‘Try and keep the air cool by providing good airflow. Open windows and doors. This will also help keep down pests and diseases and will allow water to be soaked up by the soil more readily and evenly.’

If you are thinking of how to water plants in pots while on vacation, you can consider an automatic watering system, such as this drip irrigation kit available at Walmart, that can provide drip irrigation for potted plants.

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It is important to remember that not all plants need lots of extra water during a heatwave. Some native and drought-tolerant plants are more accustomed to local temperature fluctuations in summer, but not all plants are so amenable.

To help you spot any strugglers in your yard, our guide to plants that need more water in a heatwave features seven types of plants that will need extra focus when the temperatures rise in summer.

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Roses are renowned for their fragrance, color and versatility in the garden. Whether you have a spectacular climbing rose, a large shrub rose or a miniature rose in a small pot, it's impossible not to fall in love with these romantic and timeless flowers.

But they’ll only look their best if you keep on top of rose care, especially during the hot summer months when they're susceptible to wilting. That's why understanding how to water your plants is crucial for long-lasting, prolific blooms. It's especially important to adjust your watering routine during scorching weather to prevent heat stress (picking up this soil moisture meter from Amazon will help you monitor it more easily).

Here, gardening and rose experts reveal how best to water your rose plants in the backyard, ensuring your prize blooms don't just survive the summer heatwaves, but thrive through them.

When to Water Roses

Knowing when to water plants might seem inconsequential, but timing is everything when trying to protect roses from extreme heat.

'Watering is vital for roses to thrive,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'The best time of day to water your roses is in the early morning. This ensures the plant can absorb moisture before the sun hits its peak, giving it the hydration it needs to survive scorching summer days.'

While sticking to a rigid weekly schedule works perfectly during the mild spring months, summer heatwaves call for more frequent watering based on how quickly the soil is drying out.

'Newly planted roses need to be watered more than established roses, particularly if they are planted in late spring or early summer,' Katie says.

'I would recommend watering newly planted roses every 2 to 3 days depending on the weather,' Katie adds. 'Once roses are established, they can be watered once or twice a week, as necessary depending on the temperature.'

Using a soil moisture meter (which you can also find at Walmart), you should check daily during hot spells to see whether the top two inches of soil have dried out.

During extreme heatwaves, this could mean deeply watering established roses 3 to 4 times a week, and container-grown roses daily (they dry out much more quickly than those planted in the ground).

How to Water Roses

When it comes to how to water roses, precision is important. You should always water at the base of the plant and avoid splashing the foliage or flowers.

'It is best to water around the base of the plant, not on the foliage, which will help to prevent fungal disease and other rose pests, says Robin Jennings, rose expert and Manager of Strategic Partnerships at Heirloom Roses. 'I like to water in a circle around the base of the rose so it will stretch its roots out to reach for the water and build a large root system."

Keeping the leaves dry also reduces the risk of leaf scorch during intense afternoon sun. While a watering can with a long, narrow spout (like this one from Wayfair) or a targeted hose nozzle can work for individual plants, during a heatwave, slow and deep delivery is critical.

Something like this soaker hose from Amazon can provide effective hydration. Or, install this irrigation system kit from Amazon to make watering less effort.

During extreme heat, dried-out soil becomes hydrophobic, meaning it repels water. If you see puddling on hard dirt, don't stop watering. Instead, reduce the flow to a gentle trickle, or water in short bursts, allowing the soil time to soften up and actually absorb the moisture.

It's also a good idea to lock moisture in. After a deep watering, apply a 2-to-3-inch layer of organic mulch (like pine bark from Walmart or compost) around the base of the rose, keeping it a few inches away from the main stem to prevent rotting.

Watering Mistakes to Avoid

When protecting your roses from extreme heat, avoiding common watering mistakes is crucial.

As mentioned, you should avoid getting the foliage wet. Hot, humid summer air combined with wet leaves allows many rose diseases to thrive, like black spot and powdery mildew.

'A rose will let you know when it has had too much to drink through yellowing and drooping leaves,' Robin says.

However, during a scorching heatwave, underwatered and heat-stressed roses also have these symptoms.

If your rose leaves are yellowing, dropping, or wilting in July or August, do not automatically assume you are overwatering. Push your finger two inches into the soil – if it feels dry, your rose is starving for water.

Don't forget to also adjust watering based on whether it has rained. Just keep in mind that a passing summer shower often evaporates off the topsoil before reaching the roots. Always check the actual soil moisture rather than solely relying on the weather report.

'Roses also hate having wet feet, so make sure they are in well-draining soil,' Robin adds. 'If you have clay soil, for example, you can amend the soil to improve it and give your rose the best chance.'

Soil improvers can help to enhance the quality of your soil, as Robin says, so using something like this rose soil from Walmart is a good idea.

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For more rose-growing advice, consider our guide on how to grow ground cover roses for low-growing varieties. Alternatively, see our advice on how to move a rose, providing you with all the information you need to lift and move rose plants successfully, or for shady yards, see our article on can roses grow in the shade.

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Lavender is often treated as a 'plant-it-and-forget-it' staple, but July is when it may need some extra care.

By mid-summer, most varieties are in full bloom, pollinators are busy working the flower spikes, and the plant itself is putting its energy into flowering rather than leafy growth. What you do now will directly affect how healthy it looks for the rest of the season – and how well it performs next year.

I've always loved the scent of lavender and grow it in my own yard every year. Two of my favorites are Sweet Romance® English Lavender for its intensely fragrant purple blooms, and Royal Anouk Spanish Lavender from Plant Addicts, which thrives in hot, sunny conditions and adds striking color to borders.

The Essential July Lavender Jobs to Do During a Heat Dome

This year, lavender care is especially important as a widespread heatwave is expected to intensify across parts of the U.S. in mid to late July, bringing prolonged high temperatures and dry conditions in several regions. For anyone looking to grow lavender, this combination of heat and strong sun can actually benefit established plants – so long as they’re not overwatered.

It also makes choosing the right lavender varieties more important than ever, since English lavender tends to perform best in cooler northern climates, while Spanish and French types are better suited to hotter, sunnier regions.

In terms of landscaping with lavender, these heat conditions can actually enhance its role in drought-tolerant planting schemes, where it thrives in well-drained soil and full sun. Here's what to do with lavender in July to prolong its beauty, color, and fragrance.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers to Extend the Bloom

Once lavender is in flower, regular deadheading is the single most effective way to prolong its display. Learning how to deadhead lavender correctly encourages the plant to put its energy into producing more flowers, rather than setting seed. As individual blooms fade and turn brown, they begin to divert energy away from fresh flower production and into seed formation.

The key is timing. Don't wait until the entire flower stem has finished blooming. Instead, snip off spent flower spikes as soon as they begin to fade, cutting just above the first set of leaves and avoiding the woody part of the stem. A sharp, clean pair of pruners, such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, will give you a precise cut without crushing the stems.

Done correctly, deadheading keeps lavender looking neat, encourages a second flush of blooms later in the season – particularly in repeat-flowering varieties – and prevents the plant from wasting energy on seed production you don't need.

2. Harvest Lavender at Its Peak for Scent and Drying

July is the perfect time to harvest lavender, especially if you plan to dry it for bouquets, make fragrant sachets, or use it in culinary recipes. The best time to cut is just before the flowers fully open, when the buds are plump, richly colored, and haven't yet begun shedding pollen. Harvesting at this stage helps preserve the essential oils that give lavender its signature fragrance. For clean, precise cuts, a specialist tool such as the Lavender Harvest Sickle from Amazon can make gathering larger bunches quicker and easier.

For the most aromatic harvest, cut stems early in the morning after the dew has dried but before the afternoon sun becomes too intense. Gather them into small bundles, secure them loosely with twine or an elastic band, and hang them upside down in a warm, dry, well-ventilated spot away from direct sunlight. Within a couple of weeks, your dried lavender will be ready to display in arrangements, fill homemade sachets, or store in jars to bring its calming scent indoors all year round.

3. Don’t Cut Into Woody Growth

One of the most common mistakes gardeners make in July is trying to prune lavender too aggressively. While it's tempting to give plants a full tidy after flowering begins, lavender doesn't respond well to being cut back into old, woody stems.

Instead, only trim soft, green growth. If you prune into the woody base, the plant may struggle to produce new shoots – or fail to regrow altogether. If your lavender has become leggy or overgrown, save any major reshaping until late summer after flowering has finished, or in early spring when fresh growth begins. A gentle trim now is all that's needed to keep plants healthy without risking long-term damage.

4. Water Sparingly, Even in Heat

Knowing how and when to water lavender is just as important as knowing when not to. Although July can bring heatwaves and prolonged dry spells, established lavender prefers restraint rather than routine watering. In fact, overwatering is far more damaging than a short period of drought.

Lavender is naturally drought-tolerant once established, and consistently wet soil can lead to root rot, weak growth, and fewer flowers. Water newly planted lavender during extended dry spells, but mature plants typically only need a deep watering when the soil is completely dry a few inches below the surface. Whatever the weather, always make sure your plants are growing in well-drained soil, especially if they're in containers.

5. Feed Lightly – or Not at All

When it comes to feeding, less is more. Knowing when to fertilize lavender – and when to skip it – can make the difference between a plant that's covered in fragrant flowers and one that's all leaves.

Unlike many flowering perennials, lavender thrives in lean, well-drained soil and rarely needs regular feeding. In fact, too much fertilizer, particularly one high in nitrogen, encourages lush, leafy growth at the expense of blooms and can leave plants looking floppy.

If your soil is especially poor, a light application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer in late spring or early summer is plenty, but by July it's best to let the plant focus on flowering and building resilience for the rest of the growing season rather than pushing fresh growth.

6. Leave Some Blooms for Pollinators

While it's tempting to deadhead or harvest every flower spike, try leaving a few stems untouched. Lavender is one of the most valuable nectar plants in the summer garden and, when planted in borders or low hedging, is among the best hedges for wildlife, attracting bees, butterflies, and other beneficial pollinators throughout July.

If you're cutting flowers for drying or regularly deadheading to encourage more blooms, leave a handful of flower spikes in place, particularly later in the month. You'll still enjoy a neat, productive plant while ensuring pollinators can continue feeding during hot, dry spells, when reliable nectar sources can become harder to find.

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July is pivotal for lavender care. With the right balance of deadheading, careful harvesting, and restrained pruning, you can extend flowering, improve plant health, and set the stage for a stronger display next year.

As an aromatic herb, lavender rewards this attention twice over – both in the garden and in the home. Handled well, it will deliver not just colour in midsummer, but a fragrance that carries through your space long after the garden season fades.

Hydrangeas are some of the most impactful, romantic blooms to have in your yard. But, as soon as they become dehydrated or are overwatered, they can look a little miserable with wilting flowerheads. That's why knowing how to water hydrangeas correctly is key, especially during the hot summer months.

It's an essential part of growing hydrangeas, otherwise this cottage garden shrub's flowers won't last longer than a few weeks. This is largely because hydrangeas are thirsty plants, which is why lots of us find it daunting to get right. They need consistent moisture and don't cope well with soil running dry. At the same time, it's easy to give your hydrangea too much water, resulting in rotting roots and fungal disease.

Luckily, hydrangea expert the New York Botanical Garden, Lorraine Ballato, says it doesn't have to be complicated. Here, she shares three simple rules to follow to water hydrangeas correctly – make sure to have your soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to hand.

1. Check Your Hydrangea's Soil

Before watering any plants, the first thing you need to do is check the moisture level in the soil. Watering without checking is often the cause behind overwatering hydrangeas.

'Figure out if the plant needs it by sticking your finger into the ground. It should be damp at the second knuckle. If not, give it a drink,' says Lorraine.

If your hydrangea is wilting and experiencing heat stress from drought, Lorraine notes a quick check will reveal it.

'Go back in a couple of hours or when the sun is off it to see if it has recovered or if the soil still needs moisture,' she says.

You can also use a soil moisture meter (this digital one from Amazon also revels pH levels) to test the moisture level.

In summer, you should check your hydrangea daily, especially during hot spells.

Remember, hydrangeas growing in pots will dry out even faster than those in the ground. Likewise, newly planted hydrangeas will need much more water than mature, established shrubs.

'You can amend the soil before planting by incorporating compost, which will help it retain moisture. Also, be sure there is a solid 2" of mulch in the surrounding area,' Lorraine advises.

2. Water Early in the Day

Knowing when to water your hydrangea is just as important as knowing how. Getting the timing wrong can result in faster dehydration and even leaf scorch.

'Water in the early part of the day rather than later on when that water will likely evaporate before it even gets to the roots,' Lorraine advises.

One of the biggest rules of watering plants in hot weather is to only do it in the morning or evening, avoiding watering during the hottest part of the day in the afternoon. This is because the water will dry out before properly soaking the roots and, for plants with sensitive foliage, it can scorch leaves.

While you can opt to water your hydrangea in the evening, it's often preferred to do so early in the morning. This is so the roots can properly absorb the water and rehydrate before the heat of the day arrives.

Not watering in the middle of the day can also reduce fungal diseases like powdery mildew, which thrives in wet, warm conditions.

3. Water at the Base of the Hydrangea

When it comes to how to water hydrangeas, the technique is important. Lorraine notes you shouldn't water over the shrub, but rather go straight to the base of it.

'Water the soil, not the foliage and flowers. Water on the foliage is just asking for trouble, as that is how fungal disease starts and spreads,' she explains.

You can take a long, narrow-spouted watering can (like this from Wayfair) to reach the base of the hydrangea. Or, use your gardening hose to reach underneath the foliage to water the soil directly.

Watering deeply will ensure the shrub is properly hydrated and encourages strong roots.

If your hydrangea is growing in a pot with drainage holes, you can also water it from the bottom by letting it soak in a bowl of water.

Likewise, self-watering planters (like this black one on Amazon) have reservoirs for the shrub to sit in and soak up as much water as needed. This is a good solution to prevent your hydrangea drying out completely.

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'Consider creating some type of temporary shade for your hydrangea,' Lorraine suggests. Garden shade can help protect your hydrangea during a heatwave. You can use this Amazon shade cloth, for example.

As well as getting watering right, it's crucial to know how to prune hydrangeas. This will keep it healthy and set it up for next year's display.

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July is here and with it, the first dahlia blooms. But, this doesn't mean it's time to sit back and enjoy the showy flowers, there are a few maintenance tasks to keep on top of this month to prolong your dahlia display.

Growing dahlias is straightforward, so long as you meet their basic needs. In summer, this includes deep watering, fertilizing, and regular pruning to encourage even more blooms. It's also important to give the tallest stems some support to stop them flopping over and snapping.

You can also start cutting your stems for vase arrangements this month (which is a key way to keep dahlias blooming for longer), so make sure to have sharp gardening snips to hand (like these from Amazon). Here, we talk through exactly what to do with dahlias in July.

1. Fertilize Weekly

Now that your dahlias are blooming, they're using up a lot of energy and the nutrients in their soil are depleting quickly. That's why July is an important month to establish a regular dahlia fertilizing regime.

'You can feed your dahlias as often as weekly when they start flowering,' says Rachel Bull, Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens. 'A liquid high-potash feed is my go-to, as it encourages profuse, vibrant blooms,' she adds.

You should look for a feed with a high potassium plant fertilizer numbers, such as this specific dahlia fertilizer on Amazon. Alternatively, you can actually use a tomato feed (like this Espoma one from Walmart) on dahlias, as it's high in potassium.

Complement this with a layer of organic mulch or compost for a consistent supply of nutrients and to lock in moisture during hot summer days.

Apply up until early fall to boost essential plant nutrients and encourage a long blooming period.

2. Stake Tall Stems

Dahlias are one of the plants to stake, especially for the biggest varieties (such as this Noordwijks Glorie Dinnerplate Dahlia from Amazon).

Failing to put a support in place can result in top-heavy blooms flopping over and even snapping in the wind.

There are lots of different solutions for staking dahlias, from creating a natural support from tree cuttings to using bamboo stakes (like this pack from Walmart).

Typically, a plant support of 4-6ft in height is ideal for dahlias, but it of course depends on your specific variety's ultimate height.

You should use soft ties or jute twine (like this from Amazon) to attach stems to the stake, so it doesn't cut into the flower stems. You can also use the figure-of-eight tie to prevent the stems rubbing against the stake.

3. Keep Deadheading

Now that dahlias are blooming, it's time to stay on top of deadheading. Removing spent flowers will redirect the plant's energy into putting out more blooms.

'Harvesting cut dahlia stems as part of a cutting garden is one of the best ways to prolong your dahlia's display,' Rachel adds.

Whether you're cutting flowering stems or deadheading dahlias, always use sharp and clean gardening snips (like these Fiskars ones from Amazon) and cut down the stem to a set of leaves.

This ensures the plant will put out new growth from the nodes and provide even more blooms until early fall.

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If you want an even more magnificent dahlia display this year and they haven't yet started blooming, now is the time to pinch out dahlias and encourage bushier growth. You can also strengthen your display by incorporating dahlia companion plants nearby.

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Zinnias are vibrant flowers that dazzle gardeners with glorious blooms from midsummer through to the first frosts. They are perfect for brightening up gardens of any size. Those with smaller spaces needn’t miss out, as you can enjoy an energetic display by growing zinnias in pots.

These tender annuals come in a variety of sizes and colors, including both single and mixed colors, and there are lots of compact zinnias perfectly suited for containers. They need sun, heat, and moisture for the best display. Give them a large container, regular watering and feeding, and deadhead them, and you can enjoy a long pot display.

If you want to grow zinnias in pots successfully, there are a few key points to get right, including buying the right variety, such as these Thumbelina zinnia seeds from True Leaf Market. The good news is that these annual flowers are simple to maintain. If you do the following, you’ll be enjoying a flamboyant performance of blooms in no time.

Essential Tips for Growing Zinnias in Pots

Growing zinnias in pots is made all the easier by picking compact types. Dwarf or smaller-growing zinnia varieties still come in all manner of colors, but they are easier to maintain in pots than taller types. Compact zinnias mean you don’t need such large pots, the plants don’t need staking, and the container is at less risk of being top-heavy and toppling in high winds.

Dwarf zinnias are also popular bedding plants, with the likes of Profusion Series zinnias, Zahara Series zinnias, and Thumbelina zinnias some of the most sought-after, measuring in at between 6-18 inches, depending on the variety.

Pick a container at least 12 inches wide and deep and fill it with a well-draining potting soil for container gardening. Moisture management is crucial, so any soil needs to retain moisture but be well-draining, and the container needs drainage holes.

This premium organic potting mix from Burpee is made from moisture-retaining coconut coir and is perfect for growing zinnias in pots.

A 12-inch pot can fit three compact zinnia plants, which can either be sown directly into the soil in early summer or you can plant zinnia seeds indoors in modules in late spring (use large modules or biodegradable pots as zinnias don’t like root disturbance). Alternatively, you can buy seedlings as plug plants to pop straight into your pot. If you opt to grow taller zinnias, the pot will need to be at least 16 inches wide.

Zinnias do love sun; the more sun they get, the better the plants will flower. Place your container on a sunny deck, patio, or balcony where the zinnias can thrive in at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Too much shade can mean fewer flowers and misshapen stems as the plant desperately stretches to find sunlight.

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How to Care for Zinnias in Pots

• Watering - Zinnias in pots will require regular watering to keep the soil moist in the summer. They are thirsty plants, and in containers will dry out quicker than when growing in flower beds. In the summer, it may mean watering plants in containers daily. Check the moisture levels an inch or two under the soil surface, and water when it feels dry. A moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) can help to show when you need to water plants. When you do water, always do so deeply, and take care to water the soil surface rather than the foliage, which can lead to fungal diseases.
• Feeding - To keep zinnias blooming as long as possible, feed the plants at least every two weeks with a high-potassium feed once the first flowers appear. The fast-growing flowering annuals will use up the nutrients in the potting soil after around a month. A regular feeding regime ensures the flowers have the essential nutrients they need to keep producing new blooms. A high-potassium feed usually comes in the form of a bloom booster or tomato feed, such as this concentrated plant fertilizer at Amazon.
• Pruning - Once the plants reach 10-12 inches tall, it is beneficial to pinch out zinnias. Removing the growing tip may seem harsh, but you are being cruel to be kind. This technique encourages lots of lateral growth that will carry more flowers. To do this, remove the central growing tip just above a pair of leaves. Once the zinnias start flowering, start regularly deadheading the plants. Taking the time to deadhead zinnias focuses the plant’s energy on producing new flowers, so you get the longest display of blooms. Remove faded flowers with a pair of shears or pruning snips just above a leaf node or new bud. I am a fan of these Felco pruning snips at Amazon for such intricate trimming tasks.

The Best Pots for Zinnias

At the end of the season, you can collect zinnia seeds to sow again into your pots next year. If you’ve loved this year’s displays, collecting seeds is a cost-effective way to plan for next summer’s container garden.

Stop deadheading once the overall show starts to fade and let the flowers produce seeds and dry out. Then you can cut the seed heads and collect the seeds into a paper envelope.

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For glorious, show-stopping displays of summer flowers, savvy gardeners always change up their fertilizing game once plants start forming buds or displaying those first blooms. To follow suit and get the best show, a perfect summer flower fertilizer will be rich in phosphorus and potassium.

Those two essential plant nutrients encourage strong flowering or fruiting, making them perfect for early summer for any perennial or annual flowers, or fruiting crops like tomatoes, peppers, and cucumbers. On the contrary, it would be a mistake to feed these plants too much nitrogen.

Gardeners need to pick their summer flower fertilizer wisely. A product such as a bloom booster or tomato feed will be perfect, while a nitrogen-rich product will give more foliage and fewer flowers. That is not what you want in your summer flower beds, so don’t make this fertilizing mistake.

To help you find the right summer flower fertilizer for a dazzling display of flowers or a bountiful harvest of fruit, I drew on what I used while working as a professional horticulturist in public and private gardens and spoke with plant experts.

The Ideal Summer Flower Fertilizer for Flowers and Fruits

A key part of picking the right summer flower fertilizer is understanding what the different nutrients in a typical fertilizer do for plants.

After plants have worked hard to establish strong foliage earlier in the season, the focus needs to shift to developing strong roots (to cope with summer heat) and producing flowers or fruit. These two ambitions become more important in early summer than producing lots of leaves for plants grown predominantly for flowers and fruits, and targeted nutrients help fulfill these.

Tyler Potts from Tractor Supply Company claims that annual flowers, flowering perennials, flowering shrubs (including roses and hydrangeas), and fruiting crops (like tomatoes and peppers) are all plants whose nutrient needs change. He adds: ‘They need less nitrogen in summer and more phosphorus and potassium once flowering or fruiting begins’.

What is it about these two nutrients that makes them so vital in the summer to such a large number of plants? Lotte Berendsen, an expert from the plant care app PlantIn, explains why feeds with phosphorus and potassium are recommended at this time.

‘Both nutrients are crucial parts in the production of flowers,’ says Lotte. ‘Phosphorus aids in the transfer of energy throughout the plant, while potassium regulates water transport.

‘When shopping for fertilizers, look for the NPK ratio, which stands for the amount of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus in the feed. For flowering and fruiting plants, a fertilizer with an NPK ratio where the first letter (N) is the lowest is ideal.’

The best types of summer flower fertilizer, with the nutrient levels and plant fertilizer numbers outlined above, are ‘bloom booster’ products or feeds tailored for growing tomatoes. Products formulated for blooming and tomato feeds have higher amounts of P and K to stimulate flowering and fruiting.

Shop For Summer Flower Fertilizer

When To Switch To Summer Feeds

There are telltale signs that the time is right to change to summer flower fertilizers in your summer gardening checklist. Primarily, look for when the plants are starting to flower or set fruit – this is a key indicator that their nutrient needs have changed and the perfect time to switch feeds.

However, there are some less desirable signs you may see in summer that suggest your plants need a pick-me-up. As James Swartzentruber, CFO for HyR BRIX Fertilizer, suggests: ‘If you have large, healthy-looking plants but few flowers or fruit, it may be lacking in the nutrients required to develop them.’

A plant that looks leafy and green, but is not flowering or fruiting well, may be getting too much nitrogen and not enough phosphorus or potassium to develop lots of healthy buds and blooms. A dose of summer flower fertilizer can help provide these essential nutrients that it may be lacking.

To ensure your soil doesn’t lack any particular nutrients, it is often recommended to do a soil test every few years to check the levels. You can get a simple soil test kit to discover the soil’s nutrient levels and identify any amendments that may be needed before planting.

‘When you notice signs of deficiencies, such as pale green or purple discoloration, it’s time to apply fertilizers to your flowering and fruiting plants,’ says Lotte. ‘If you find any foliar symptoms on your plants, consider performing a soil test to see if your plant is lacking any vital nutrients.’

This soil test kit at Amazon offers a mail-in laboratory analysis and shows 13 different nutrient levels in your soil.

The Mistake To Avoid

It is important not to feed flowering or fruiting plants with too much nitrogen during the summer.

If you are growing ornamental grasses, foliage plants (like coleus or hostas), or leafy greens (such as lettuce or chard), they do require lots of nitrogen, but the types of plants listed earlier won’t thrive with it.

Tyler Potts advises: ‘Too much nitrogen promotes leaves and stems instead of flowers and fruit. It can also cause weaker growth, delayed blooming, and increased pest and disease issues.’

Be careful when browsing the shelves or websites for products, as you can all too easily fall foul of giving flowering plants too much nitrogen. As Lotte warns, even balanced, all-purpose fertilizer often has more nitrogen than potassium or phosphorus.

‘This can lead to a reduction of flowers on your plants, as excess nitrogen encourages vegetative growth and inhibits the production of blooms,’ she says.

To stay safe, read any packaging carefully to see the nutrient make-up, and only ever use the products at the recommended rates.

Perennial and annual flowers will always perform at their best when gardeners regularly fertilize flower beds. An ideal routine involves feeding when plants start actively growing in the spring with a balanced feed, and then giving plants regular liquid feeds as above until early fall. Mulching around plants with organic matter also helps to boost the soil nutrients and retain moisture in the ground.

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Star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) is one of my favorite evergreen climbers. It looks beautiful all year thanks to its glossy green foliage, but by early summer it really comes into its own, producing masses of delicate, pinwheel-shaped white flowers with an unmistakably sweet fragrance. If you're looking to grow and care for star jasmine for year-round interest, June is when you'll really start to reap the rewards.

It's also one of the most important months for keeping the plant healthy. A few simple jobs now will encourage stronger growth, extend the flowering season, and help it cope if temperatures climb later in the summer. Whether you're training it over a pergola, up a sunny wall, or growing it in a large container to make your patio smell nice, these are the June tasks I'd never skip.

1. Water Deeply During Dry Spells

Keeping star jasmine consistently watered is one of the best ways to encourage healthy growth and a long flowering season, especially during hot, dry spells.

I like using the Flexi Hose Expandable Garden Hose from Amazon because it's lightweight, doesn't kink, and stretches as you water before shrinking back down for easy storage. It makes deep watering around climbers, borders, and containers much less of a chore, particularly if you're watering regularly throughout summer.

2. Feed to Support Flowering

If you want to fertilize jasmine for the best possible display, June is the time to do it. Feeding every couple of weeks during peak flowering gives star jasmine the extra energy it needs to keep producing buds and blooming for longer. Once flowers begin to appear, I like to use a fertilizer that's slightly higher in potash, as this encourages more blooms rather than excess leafy growth.

For an easy boost, Miracle-Gro 1-Pound Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food is a great option to maximize blooms. At the same time, Perfect Plants Liquid Jasmine Fertilizer from Amazon is specially formulated to support healthy foliage, vigorous growth, and abundant blooms throughout the growing season. Just avoid overfeeding with nitrogen-rich fertilizers, which can encourage lush leaves at the expense of flowers.

3. Tie In New Shoots

Star jasmine grows surprisingly quickly once temperatures rise, so June is the moment to stay on top of new growth. Any fresh stems should be gently guided and secured to their support while they’re still soft and flexible – left unchecked, they can easily tangle or drift away from the structure you’re trying to cover.

For this, I like using VELCRO Brand Adjustable Plant Ties because they’re soft, reusable, and won’t damage delicate stems as they thicken. For trickier sections or longer runs, Green Garden Wire from Amazon is also a handy option, offering more flexibility when shaping and training growth. Keeping stems evenly spaced not only prevents congestion, but also encourages fuller coverage over walls, fences, and pergolas for a more balanced, established look over time.

4. Remove Finished Flowers

As the earliest blooms begin to fade, it’s worth lightly pruning star jasmine to keep things looking neat and encourage continued flowering. Deadheading isn’t essential for star jasmine, but removing spent blooms where you can helps tidy the plant and can support a longer, more consistent display of fresh flowers through the season.

For quick, precise snips, Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems are ideal, especially for reaching into dense growth without damaging nearby stems. A little regular attention goes a long way in keeping the plant looking its best.

5. Watch for Pests

Although star jasmine is generally low-maintenance, it’s worth keeping an eye out for summer pests as temperatures rise. Aphids and scale insects can occasionally appear during warm weather, especially on soft new growth.

Check young shoots and the undersides of leaves every week or so, particularly on plants growing against warm, sheltered walls where infestations tend to build up more quickly. Catching problems early makes them much easier to manage and helps prevent them from spreading further into the plant.

For a simple, effective treatment option, Natria Neem Oil Spray from Amazon can be used to help control common pests while supporting healthier, more resilient growth.

Star jasmine has a reputation for being wonderfully easy to grow, and that’s certainly been my experience. It’s one of my favorite plants to grow, partly for how little it asks for, but mostly for how much it gives back in return. It also grows beautifully in containers, so if you want to grow star jasmine in pots, it’s just as happy in a large planter as it is in the ground.

There’s something deeply nostalgic about it for me – the first time I grew it, I remember stepping outside in the evening and being completely taken by its scent. Now, every time it blooms, it instantly brings that feeling back. It also does something no other plant quite manages in the same way: it makes my patio smell incredible, especially on warm nights when the fragrance really carries.

Keep it well watered, especially during dry spells, and feed it regularly to support steady growth and flowering. Take a little time to guide those fast-growing stems where you want them to go, and you’ll quickly see a fuller, better-structured plant taking shape.

Handled this way, star jasmine rewards you with glossy evergreen foliage and weeks of beautifully scented flowers that turn even a simple patio into a space you want to linger in a little longer.

Cosmos are one of the hardest-working annual flowers in the summer garden. Easy to grow, drought tolerant once established, and loved by pollinators, they can flower continuously from early summer right through to the first fall frost. Whether you're growing classic Cosmos bipinnatus, sulphur cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus), or one of the many newer compact varieties, a little attention in June can make a huge difference to just how spectacular that display becomes.

If you're learning how to grow cosmos successfully, June is an important month. Across much of the US, plants are now growing quickly, with many beginning to produce their first flowers. This is the ideal time to move beyond simply establishing your plants and start encouraging stronger growth, more blooms, and a longer flowering season.

With so many beautiful types of cosmos available, from tall cottage-garden favorites to container-friendly cultivars, a few simple maintenance tasks now will help ensure a show-stopping display throughout summer and into fall.

1. Deadhead Regularly to Encourage More Flowers

One of the most important jobs for cosmos in June is deadheading. If you're wondering how to deadhead cosmos, simply snip faded blooms off just above a healthy set of leaves or a side shoot. I like using the Felco F322 Pruning Snips from Amazon for this task – their slim, precise blades make it easy to remove spent flowers without disturbing nearby buds or foliage.

The more consistently you deadhead cosmos, the more flowers you're likely to get. It's a simple but highly effective task that can significantly extend the flowering season, keeping plants blooming freely and looking fresh well into late summer and even early fall.

2. Stake Tall Varieties Before Summer Storms Arrive

Many cosmos varieties can easily reach 4 to 6 feet tall by midsummer, especially in fertile soil. While their airy, cottage-garden habit is part of their charm, those tall stems can be vulnerable to heavy rain, strong winds, and summer thunderstorms.

Adding supports now – before plants become top-heavy – is much easier than trying to rescue fallen stems later. Bamboo stakes, grow-through supports, or discreet plant rings all work well while preserving the plant's natural, meadow-like appearance. I often use simple Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon, which blend seamlessly into borders and provide just enough support to keep stems upright without detracting from the plant's soft, billowing look.

3. Pinch Back Leggy Growth

If some of your cosmos are looking tall and sparse, June is still a good time to pinch out cosmos. Simply remove a few inches from the growing tips of young stems to encourage branching, creating a bushier plant with more flowering stems.

It can feel counterproductive to cut back a plant that's growing well, but the result is often a fuller, stronger plant with significantly more blooms later in the season. If you're wondering when to pinch out cosmos, early summer is ideal, giving plants plenty of time to produce fresh growth before they hit their peak flowering period.

4. Avoid Overfeeding

One of the most common mistakes gardeners make when they fertilize cosmos is treating them like heavy-feeding annuals. In reality, cosmos often perform best in relatively modest soil conditions.

Too much fertilizer – particularly high-nitrogen products – can encourage lush green foliage at the expense of flowers. If your soil is poor, a light application of a balanced fertilizer is usually plenty. I like using Osmocote Smart-Release Plant Food or Miracle-Gro Shake 'n Feed Rose & Bloom Plant Food, both available on Amazon, as they provide a gentle, steady supply of nutrients without overwhelming plants. Otherwise, many cosmos will happily bloom all summer with little additional feeding. When it comes to fertilizing cosmos, a lighter touch almost always delivers the best results.

5. Keep Plants Well Watered During Heatwaves

Although cosmos are relatively drought-tolerant once established, newly planted specimens and younger plants can struggle during prolonged periods of extreme heat. If you're wondering how often to water cosmos, deep, occasional watering is generally better than frequent shallow watering, as it encourages stronger root growth.

As temperatures climb across many parts of the US in June and July, knowing how to water plants in a heatwave becomes increasingly important. Deep watering during dry spells can help maintain healthy growth and support continuous flowering.

For larger beds, I like using the Husky Oscillating Sprinkler from The Home Depot, which provides even coverage and makes it easier to give plants a thorough soak during hot weather. Water at the base of the plant rather than overhead where possible, particularly during humid conditions, to reduce the risk of disease and ensure moisture reaches the roots where it's needed most.

6. Thin Crowded Plants for Better Airflow

By now, your cosmos can begin filling out rapidly. If plants are growing too close together, consider thinning them slightly to improve airflow. Good spacing helps reduce the risk of powdery mildew and allows each plant to develop stronger stems and a more attractive shape. It also makes deadheading and harvesting cut flowers much easier throughout the season.

Shop Cosmos Essentials for June

With just a few minutes of attention in June, cosmos will reward you with months of colorful blooms, attracting bees, butterflies, and other pollinators while bringing a relaxed, cottage-garden feel to borders, cutting gardens, and containers alike. Their pollinator-friendly qualities are one reason why Kate Moss planted cosmos in her garden to attract bees, proving that these easy-going annuals are as beneficial to wildlife as they are beautiful.

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One of the most effective ways to make a patio and garden feel cooler is to surround it with the right plants. It's not a substitute for an air con unit, but leafy trees, vigorous climbers and moisture-loving foliage plants can help create a cooler microclimate by providing shade, reducing reflected heat and releasing moisture into the air.

For this reason, some of the best plants for cooling a patio combine height, dense foliage and large leaves. They create dappled shade, absorb heat and some even have beautifully scented flowers.

Together, the five plants suggestions below can transform a sun-baked patio into a greener, fresher and more comfortable outdoor retreat. Plus, you could grow them in a large self-watering planter, such as this set from Amazon. They are a gamechanger in hot weather and take the effort out of constant watering.

Bay Tree

I have a bay tree (Laurus nobilis) growing in the ground next to my backyard patio, and it is one of the easiest and most rewarding plants to look after.

Granted, it isn't big enough to take the place of a shade sail, but it has dense, evergreen foliage, that creates natural shade and helps create cooler microclimates on the patio.

It is easy to clip into the shape I want, and it grows vigorously every year after it's annual prune.

This bay laurel at Plant Addicts is where I would start if I didn't already have one, and you can use the leaves in cooking, too.

Bays are also ideal trees for pots, so you could even start small and move it around to help create shade at different parts of the day.

Star Jasmine

The thick vines of star jasmine (trachelospermum jasminoides) provides evergreen cover for hot walls, absorbing heat in the process. It can be trained over pergolas, fences and walls, helping to shade surfaces that would otherwise absorb and radiate heat throughout the day.

This incredible star jasmine vine from Plant Addicts comes in a wide variety of pot sizes, so it's fantastic option if you want to get a more established plant right from the get-go.

This headily fragrant climber thrives in hot conditions, and is often found growing in abundant swathes, adorning pergolas, walls, patio trellises and gazebos in Mediterranean climates.

Once established, star jasmine is also relatively drought tolerant, making it a practical choice for sunny patios in warmer regions.

Crape Mrytle

Crape myrtle (lagerstroemia indica) is an wonderful shrub to cool a patio as it has naturally airy canopy, creating dappled shade without making a space feel dark or blocking out the light.

In summer, it produces masses of flowers that can last for weeks, and the long leaves of crape myrtle help to soften hard landscaping.

Like all leafy plants, crape myrtle releases water vapour through its leaves. This transpiration can slightly cool the surrounding air, particularly when the tree is in full leaf during the summer.

This stunning crape myrtle from Nature Hills has vibrant hot pink flowers and dark burgundy foliage, and would also help to create privacy screen on a patio.

Hardy Banana

Nothing quite shouts tropical like a banana tree. With its huge leaves, whether grown in the ground or a pot, it creates instant shade, and a cooling visual effect.

You can find cold hardy banana trees at Plant Addicts, which will grow down to USDA hardiness zone 5.

In warmer weather, cold hardy bananas can grow fast, so if planting in the ground make sure you give it enough room to expand. A specific banana tree fertilizer, such as this one from Amazon, will also give it a boost and encourage fruits.

If you want an option that is perfect for a pot, this dwarf 'Cavendish' banana tree from Fast Growing Trees might be the perfect option for you.

Ostrich Fern

Thinking not just about height and shade, but also plants lower to the ground that can help to cool a patio, ostrich ferns are well worth a mention.

Ferns help to cool the areas around seating by increasing humidity from their large, feathery fronds. Their lush foliage can also lightly cover hard landscaping, reducing the amount of reflected heat from a patio and making seating areas feel fresher.

I have a lot of these ferns in my yard, and they are very easy to establish around a patio, preferring shade to a full sun position. They are also simple to grow in containers. My ostrich ferns can produce fronds that are between two and three feet in height, and with their beautiful texture the leaves are always a welcome addition when they begin to appear in spring.

You can find ostrich fern plants at Amazon.

What to Shop

Creating a cooler patio doesn't have to rely on pricey outdoor upgrades. By choosing plants wisely, you can transform even the most sun-exposed space into a greener, more comfortable retreat for summer. And once you have your plants sorted, it's time to add those outdoor string lights, no?

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As heatwaves become more frequent across much of the US, it's easy to assume every plant in the yard needs extra water. In reality, many established perennials, native plants, and drought-tolerant shrubs are surprisingly resilient. Others, however, can quickly become stressed during periods of extreme heat, showing signs of wilting, scorched leaves, and reduced flowering, making it important to know exactly when and where to water plants.

The key is knowing which plants are most vulnerable and stepping in before they begin to struggle. From thirsty hydrangeas in the South to sun-baked containers on patios and decks, these are the plants worth checking first during a heatwave, and how to keep them looking their best. If you're wondering which plants to water in June as temperatures climb, these are the varieties to prioritize.

Before reaching for the hose, timing matters, too. The best time to water a garden during a heatwave is early in the morning, when cooler temperatures allow moisture to soak into the soil rather than evaporating quickly. In fact, the best time to water a garden is almost always before the day heats up, giving roots time to absorb moisture and helping plants cope better with soaring temperatures. Evening watering is the next best option during prolonged periods of extreme heat, but avoid watering in the middle of the day when much of that moisture is lost before roots can absorb it.

1. Hydrangeas

Hydrangeas are often the first plants to show signs of heat stress, and it’s not unusual to see hydrangeas wilting during the hottest part of summer. Their large, soft leaves lose moisture quickly, and blooms can start to droop dramatically in peak afternoon heat, making it especially important to water hydrangeas properly during a heatwave.

I like to water deeply at the base rather than relying on quick surface sprays, as a thorough soak every few days does far more for long-term plant health than frequent, shallow watering.

In my own backyard, I also use the Eden Weighted Essential Oscillating Sprinkler from Amazon, which delivers even, consistent coverage when I need to water larger areas without constantly moving the hose.

A layer of mulch around the base is another simple step that really helps lock in moisture and keep roots cooler, especially when temperatures stay high for several days in a row.

My favorite hydrangeas are the Limelight Hydrangea and Vanilla Strawberry Hydrangea from Plant Addicts. Both have a romantic, billowy quality that makes a garden feel like a cottage fairytale. Limelight's blooms soften from lime green to blush tones, while Vanilla Strawberry's oversized flower heads gradually deepen from white to raspberry pink.

2. Container Plants

Patio pots and planters can dry out remarkably quickly in high temperatures, particularly when positioned on decks, balconies, driveways, or in south- or west-facing areas. If you have a container garden, it's worth paying particularly close attention during a heatwave, as pots tend to lose moisture far faster than plants growing in the ground.

Watering container plants may mean reaching for the hose once or even twice a day during periods of extreme heat. Check the soil regularly by inserting your finger a couple of inches into the potting mix. If it feels dry, it's time to water. Moving containers into afternoon shade can also make a noticeable difference, helping pots stay cooler and retain moisture for longer.

I've also become a big fan of self-watering solutions for summer containers. The Back to the Roots Self-Watering Terracotta Olla Pots from Amazon slowly release moisture directly to the roots, which can be a game-changer during prolonged hot spells.

I also love the look of the Square Self-Watering Planter Pot from Target, which combines a clean, modern design with a built-in reservoir that helps keep plants consistently hydrated with much less day-to-day fuss.

3. Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs

Even plant-and-forget shrubs that thrive on neglect and will eventually become drought-tolerant need extra care during their first year. Newly planted trees and shrubs haven't yet developed extensive root systems and can quickly become stressed during prolonged periods of heat.

Rather than watering little and often, give them a slow, deep soak once or twice a week. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil in search of moisture, helping plants establish more quickly and become far more resilient to hot, dry weather in the long term.

4. Vegetable Crops

A vegetable garden can quickly begin to struggle during extreme heat. Tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, peppers, and leafy greens all need consistent moisture to keep producing well, and allowing them to dry out can lead to poor harvests, stressed plants, and even blossom drop.

The best way to water a vegetable garden during a heatwave is early in the morning before temperatures climb. This gives roots time to absorb moisture before the heat of the day and minimizes water loss through evaporation. Mulching around crops will also help keep soil temperatures lower and moisture levels more consistent, allowing plants to cope much better with prolonged periods of hot weather.

If you're heading away for a summer trip, Plant Watering Stakes from Amazon are also worth considering. They slowly release water into the soil and can help keep thirsty crops hydrated while you're on vacation, giving you one less thing to worry about while you're away.

5. Hanging Baskets

Hanging baskets are among the thirstiest parts of any summer garden. Exposed to sun and moving air on all sides, they can dry out in a matter of hours during a heatwave.

To properly water hanging baskets, check them both morning and evening, watering thoroughly until it runs from the drainage holes. One of the most common hanging basket mistakes is giving plants a quick splash of water and assuming it's enough. Instead, a deep soak is essential, particularly during periods of prolonged heat.

If you're worried about keeping up with watering, the Self-Watering Hanging Planters from Amazon are a best-seller for good reason. Their built-in reservoir helps regulate moisture levels and reduces how quickly baskets dry out, making them particularly useful during heatwaves or if you're spending time away from home.

6. Roses in Full Bloom

Established roses are fairly resilient, but plants covered in flowers use significant amounts of water. During prolonged hot spells, blooms may fade more quickly and plants can begin to struggle if the soil remains dry.

To water roses correctly, give them a deep soak around the base of the plant and avoid wetting the foliage where possible. One or two thorough waterings each week is usually enough to support healthy flowering during periods of extreme heat. Deep, infrequent watering encourages roots to grow further into the soil, helping roses become more resilient during long, hot summers.

I love the Pink Double Knock Out® Roses from Plant Addicts for how reliable and floriferous they are. However, even these resilient roses appreciate a deep drink during prolonged hot spells to keep those vibrant pink blooms coming all summer long.

7. Hostas

Hostas naturally thrive in cool, moisture-retentive conditions and can quickly suffer when temperatures rise. Their broad leaves are prone to scorching and can become limp if the soil dries out, which is why hosta care becomes especially important during a heatwave.

Water deeply whenever the top few inches of soil begin to feel dry and consider providing temporary shade during the hottest afternoons. A generous layer of mulch will also help retain moisture and keep roots cooler.

One of the most popular types in the US is the Liberty Hosta from Plant Addicts, known for its bold variegated foliage and reliable performance in shaded garden spaces. It’s a great example of a variety that looks its best when given the right moisture and protection from harsh sun.

It's also worth remembering that some of the places to never plant hostas include hot, exposed spots that receive intense afternoon sun or areas with fast-draining soil. In these locations, hostas are far more likely to scorch, wilt, and struggle during prolonged periods of extreme heat.

Shop Garden Watering Essentials

One of the biggest garden watering mistakes during a heatwave is watering little and often. Frequent, shallow watering encourages roots to stay near the surface, where soil dries out fastest, leaving plants more vulnerable when temperatures spike.

Instead, water deeply and less frequently, ideally early in the morning. By prioritizing the plants that genuinely need extra moisture and encouraging deeper root growth, you’ll help your yard stay healthier, more resilient, and looking its best, even during the hottest stretches of summer.

Finally, as temperatures soar, it’s more important than ever to support local wildlife by providing fresh water and food for garden birds. One of my favorite ways to keep an eye on visiting birds is with the Birdfy 2 Smart Bird Feeder with Camera, available on Amazon and currently discounted for Prime Day. It lets you watch, record, and identify the birds that visit your garden, giving you a fascinating insight into when and how they feed during the heatwave.

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By June, your statement wisteria climber is done flowering and focusing on foliage growth. While it's easy to assume it can be left alone for the rest of the year, neglecting wisteria summer care can set up next year's display for disaster.

The truth is, wisteria care is year-round, even if its blooms only stick around for a few weeks at a time in May. After blooming, deadheading, light pruning, and tying in new growth are essential to keep this climber in top condition and support the vigorous growth it's putting out. Plus, a little TLC now will help your plant conserve energy for next spring's blooms.

So while there isn't anything major to do this month, there are still some key tasks to tick off. Here, with insights from a professional gardener, I talk through what to do with a wisteria in June – you'll want to have a reliable pair of pruning shears to hand, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

Wisteria has iconic purple (this 'Blue Moon' wisteria from Plant Addicts is a beautiful native choice), pink, and white raceme clusters that typically come out for around two to three weeks in spring. Once they start to fade, they lose their color and shrivel up.

You can tidy up its appearance by deadheading your wisteria to remove the spent blooms.

Not only does this give it a cleaner look, it also helps redirect the plant's energy from seed production to new growth, conserving energy for another showy display next spring.

You should do this by taking sharp pruning tools and cutting back to the first leaf node below the spent flower. If your wisteria is towering, you might find these long-handled Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon make it easier to reach.

2. Trim Whippy Shoots

Summer marks an important time for pruning your wisteria, as it has long, straggly green shoots from spring which need taming.

'In June, the focus should be on managing new herbaceous growth (known as whips) and keeping it neatly contained within the canopy you’re aiming to maintain,' says Dave Smith, Director of Estate Gardens and Grounds at The Inn at Little Washington.

You should trim this unwanted vegetative growth with clean and sharp shears (because it will be soft, you can use these Felco F2 bypass pruners from Lowe's), cutting back to about five or six leaves.

As well as redirecting the plant's energy, this helps improve airflow and sunlight exposure to the base of the stems. This allows the wood ripen in preparation for prolific flowering next year.

3. Tie In New Growth

With wisteria being a climber, many of us choose to grow it up a trellis (you can even use this Wayfair planter box trellis for a smaller wisteria variety) or on wire up the side of a wall. As new growth emerges in the spring and summer, it's important to train and tie in wisteria shoots.

This new growth is different to the long, whippy, tangled growth that needs pruning back. Instead, this is flexible new growth you want to form the plant's structure.

Generally speaking, this is the growth appearing in the right spot and growing in the right direction along your plant support.

'Summer care for wisteria is largely about control and structure, ensuring the plant doesn’t become overly vigorous or unruly,' Dave describes.

You want to use jute twine (like this from Lowe's) or soft ties (like this on Amazon) to create a figure-of-eight loop that provides space between the shoots and the support so it can thicken without becoming damaged.

It's popular to train wisterias in a fan shape, keeping foliage growth neat and providing more coverage of blooms by distributing the plant's energy more evenly.

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As summer temperatures arrive, don't forget to also water your wisteria deeply to prevent heat stress and keep it hydrated. This is especially important if you're growing your wisteria in a pot, which will dry out much more quickly than ground-planted wisteria.

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Trees are among the most valuable plants we can grow, adding beauty, privacy, shade and wildlife interest to our yards. But some species can cause far more problems than they're worth.

Having worked as a professional gardener for many years, I've seen firsthand the damage that unsuitable trees can inflict. From invasive roots and relentless suckering to excessive self-seeding and toxic plant parts, certain trees can quickly become a headache in a home garden, and I now have a concise list of plants I’ll never grow again.

Guided by Beth Chatto's famous mantra, 'right plant, right place', these experiences have led me to a shortlist of five trees I'd never plant in a yard again, and the better alternatives I'd grow instead (one of which is the beautiful Arbequina Olive Tree, from Fast Growing Trees, which is my top recommendation for any yard).

Cherry Laurel

Grown for its rapid growth and dense evergreen foliage, the cherry laurel, Prunus laurocerasus, is often valued for its ability to provide effective garden screening and privacy. Producing up to 3 feet of new growth each year, this large, fast-growing shrub or small tree can reach 30 feet tall and wide.

Considered an invasive in parts of the Pacific Northwest, and a hedge to avoid due to its potential to shade over and displace other plants.

With memories of arduously hand-pruning great lengths of laurel hedging so as not to leave an untidy finish at a previous garden I managed, it is certainly a tree I would never plant again.

A much more manageable tree is the American holly, or Ilex opaca. This is the best deal I've ever seen on American holly, at Fast Growing Trees.

Suitable for growing down to USDA zone 5, this slow-growing evergreen tree generally reaches a final height of 30 feet and forms an attractive pyramidal shape.

Another option is the Densa Inkberry, from Plant Addicts, which is a slow-growing, dense evergreen and is very well suited as a hedge plant.

Black Walnut

Reaching a maximum height of around 100 feet, the black walnut tree, Juglans nigra, is a prized tree, not only for its stature and fruits, but also for its hardwood. Another North American native, a mature Juglans nigra can produce an impressive black walnut harvest in late September or October.

Undoubtedly beautiful, this vigorous and large tree is not without its problems. Firstly, to keep it productive and maintain its shape, regular walnut tree pruning is required. Bleeding sap when cut, the black walnut tree is best pruned in late winter, when the tree is dormant.

Secondly, and more unusually, the black walnut tree produces a chemical called juglone, which is toxic to many plants. Existing in the tree's foliage, fruits and roots, juglone can extend beyond the tree’s canopy and inhibit growth in other plants that are sensitive to it.

Having inherited a black walnut tree growing next to a kitchen garden, I admired it greatly for being a beautiful specimen, but found planting around it very limiting due to the toxic juglone it emitted.

With members of the nightshade family and fruits, especially apple trees, being some of the most susceptible to juglone, what could be grown in the vegetable garden was hugely restricted.

A flowering cherry tree with its spring blossom and fall foliage color could be a great alternative. This Kwanzan flowering cherry available at Nature Hills is currently 20% off and a beautiful specimen.

Suited to USDA zones 5-8 and reaching a maximum of 8 to 50 feet tall, there is a space to grow one in even the smallest of gardens.

You can also find the more compact Snow Fountains® Weeping Cherry Tree at Fast Growing Trees, which would be perfect for a front yard or any small backyard.

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Staghorn sumac

A large shrub or small tree, staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina) is valued for its fern-like foliage and spectacular fall color. Growing up to 25 feet tall, this North American native thrives in open woodlands and along roadsides, where it spreads readily to form colonies.

Its crimson autumn display, wildlife value and ability to stabilize slopes have made it a popular choice for naturalistic and wildlife-friendly gardens.

However, its vigorous suckering habit can quickly become problematic. New shoots often emerge several feet from the parent plant, creating dense thickets that are difficult to control.

Considered invasive in some states, unmanaged staghorn sumac can outcompete and shade out native plants as it expands. Having managed a large private garden with an established specimen, I can attest to just how freely it suckers and how quickly new growth can appear well beyond its original planting site.

Instead, an often understated tree is the Serviceberry or Amelanchier. The Autumn Brilliance serviceberry is available at Plant Addicts.

Grown for its spring blossom and vibrant fall display, depending on the species, they can grow up to 30 feet tall and are generally suitable for USDA hardiness zones 4-9.

Another beautiful option for winter interest is the Berry Heavy® Gold Winterberry from Nature Hills. It is a native American deciduous holly and produces the largest golden-yellow berries of any winterberry holly for spectacular color.

Weeping Willow

A fast-growing tree and a full and dense canopy make the weeping willow a great shade tree for sitting under and a great choice for screening an unwanted view.

A deciduous tree, with a maximum height and spread of around 50 feet, means that the weeping willow is generally unsuitable for a domestic backyard. That, combined with its rapid growth and extensive moisture-seeking root system, which can damage underground drain and sewer pipes, makes it a tree to avoid planting close to a house.

A weeping willow growing alongside a riverbank in one of the gardens I used to work at was one of our favorite spots for a break or rest out of the midday sun. However, considering the size it matured into and the maintenance it needed to clear its fallen leaves, branches and twigs, I would not be in a hurry to plant one.

As an alternative, the native Eastern redbud, Cercis canadensis, is illuminated by its pink blooms in early spring and before its green heart-shaped foliage emerges. You can find spectacular Eastern redbud tree at Fast Growing Trees.

Suitable for growing in zones 4-9, it grows to a maximum height of 30 feet, but can be easily managed.

More Beautiful Tree Alternatives

English Oak

Growing up to 130 feet tall and 80 feet wide, English oak (Quercus robur) is a magnificent tree. Supporting hundreds of wildlife species, absorbing significant amounts of carbon dioxide and casting generous shade, it is one of the most valuable native trees you can grow.

However, grown from a mere acorn, English oaks eventually require far more space than most residential yards can provide. For this reason alone, they are trees that should never be planted in a small yard..

Their extensive root systems can also create problems over time, with the potential to disrupt sidewalks, driveways and even building foundations if planted too close. In addition, mature oaks require ongoing maintenance, including periodic pruning to remove damaged branches and promote tree health, while fallen leaves, acorns and twigs can create a considerable cleanup job each fall.

There is no doubt that English oaks are exceptional trees when given the space they need to thrive. In the right setting, they can be a spectacular long-term investment, but they are often too large and demanding for the average yard.

For a front or backyard, a kousa dogwood, Cornus kousa, with its spring flowers, fall color and height up to 30 feet tall, makes for a wiser choice.

Suitable for growing in zones 5 to 9, this Kousa Dogwood Tree is available from Plant Addicts.

Choosing and planting a tree is a big decision that can benefit generations to come. But choosing the wrong tree might, as you have just read, have unfortunate consequences down the line. For some other more suitable small tree choices, here are the best trees to plant close to a house.

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Sunflowers are one of my favorite summer blooms. My plants start to fill the garden towards the end of June and the sunny splashes of yellow are always a welcome sight. While sunflowers are easy to grow there are a few jobs to keep on top of so the blooms continue for as long as possible.

As I love to pick sunflowers for the house I tend to lean more towards the many cultivars with shorter stems and a branching habit so I get multiple flowers from one plant. These make great cut flowers. The giant varieties with just one huge flower are always fun to grow too. I leave a few in situ for the birds to snack on the seeds, and they are always well received.

If you want to find out how to grow sunflowers the good news is these gorgeous blooms need very little attention in June to thrive, even in the relentless heat of summer. Here are six things to do to keep those flowers coming. (And you can still sow sunflower seeds, from this gorgeous Amazon mix, to flower by August!)

1. Keep Watering Your Sunflowers Especially In A Heatwave

My sunflower patch grows super fast in June and puts on inches at an amazing rate. This means any newly sunflower plants need plenty of water and they will suffer if allowed to dry out.

Once my plants are established their water needs ease up a little and they even tolerate some drought. As soon as the flowers open this is my cue to give them deep, regular watering if I want them to look their best.

Keep up a watering routine in hot weather, particularly if you're growing sunflowers in pots. Aim the water at the base of the plant rather than overhead to get moisture down to the root system. I love this 1 gallon green metal watering can from Amazon, which when not in use looks great on the patio.

Overhead watering can spread diseases and wets foliage without properly soaking the root system.

If you're away for the night, plant watering globes, like these beautiful glass ones from Amazon, are really useful. They maintain a constant, slow release of water over time, so it takes the worry out of not watering for a day or two in hot weather.

2. Feed Your Sunflowers To Get The Best Results

Before planting my sunflowers this year I remembered to add plenty of well-rotted manure to the bottom of the hole – I usually forget. Alternatively you can also use garden compost. Although sunflowers don't generally need fertilizer it's a good idea to do this to get them off to the best start.

If your soil is very poor you can use a slow-release granular fertilizer such as Organic Plant Magic available from Amazon to encourage flowering. Sunflower plants will also benefit from mulching around the roots with extra compost. Treat the leaves to a seaweed spray to give them a boost too.

While young sunflower plants are attractive to slugs and snails the good news is as they grow bigger they generally become less troubled by pests and disease. You may spot aphids on your sunflowers but as the plants grow it becomes less of an issue as they prefer young foliage.

3. Stake Sunflower Plants With Sturdy Supports

As your sunflowers grow bigger they will need some kind of support. Both giant single stem and multi-branching varieties of sunflower will benefit from staking, as they won’t stay upright for long unless you give them some help. I sometimes use a wire trellis for the multi-branching sunflower varieties as it's an easy way to keep them in check.

Tie in plants against sturdy stakes as they grow, remembering to check regularly to see if they need extra ties as they grow taller, as all it takes is one high wind to bring them down if they don't have the necessary support in place.

Start off with something like these heavy-duty single stem support stakes from Wayfair, which are ideal for tall or top-heavy plants like sunflowers. As plants grow taller switch to a longer stake such as these stylish metal plant supports, also from Wayfair, which add a design element to your planting too.

4. Carry Out Routine Deadheading To Keep Things Looking Fresh

Once sunflower blooms start to fade and the foliage dries up and shrivels around the base it can spoil the look of your flower display. But the good news is it's easy to tidy things up. The trick is to keep on top of deadheading with some handy shears like these Fiskars Plant Snips available from Target, which allow you to make precise cuts.

Regular deadheading encourages the growth of new flowers and this is one of the most important routine jobs to carry out on sunflowers in June. It's a surefire way to keep sunflowers blooming.

The goal is to cut off any part of the flower that is dead. You can also tidy up any faded foliage while you're doing it. Follow the stem back until you hit a place where it branches.

There is a good chance you will get more flowers if you do this to cut-and-come again varieties of sunflowers.

5. Keep Picking Flowers To Keep Blooms Coming

As well as deadheading it's important to start harvesting sunflowers in June. The formula is simple: the more you pick the flowers the more flowers you will get. The prolific flowering types that I like produce lots of smaller flowers that will fill vases for months, as cutting the central bloom sends a signal to the plant to send out new stems from the side.

Some of my favorite varieties for arranging indoors include 'Summer Nights' available here from Nature Hills,, which has deep burgundy stems and brilliant golden yellow blooms all summer long, and 'Strawberry Blonde', an unusual variety available here from Burpee, a combination of subtle lemon and rose-pink flowers surrounding a dark disc.

Pick the flowers just as they're beginning to open. It's a good idea to do this first thing in the morning when it's still cool. Alternatively cut stems in the evening once the heat has gone out of the day.

Condition the flower stems in a bucket of cool water for a couple of hours before transferring them to a vase. When arranging the sunflowers first remove any foliage that will sit below the waterline to avoid a build up of plant debris in the water. Trim stems and change the water every couple of days to keep things fresh.

6. Save Some Seeds For The Birds (And Next Year)

If you like the idea of saving some of your own seeds to grow next year leave one or two flowers in place to fade and allow the seeds to mature instead of deadheading them. Collecting seeds in this way means they will germinate and grow much better the following year.

Once the seeds have developed and are ready simply cut off the heads on a dry day then store them away in a brown bag where the seeds will be shed naturally so they are ready for sowing next year.

It's also a great way to provide a treat for the birds as part of your wildlife garden ideas. If you don’t want to collect any seeds to store you can always leave the seed head in place as a natural bird feeder in your garden.

That's my easy formula to keep sunflowers in June looking their best. Now find out what your rambling rose needs in June, as well as what to do with clematis in June to keep these other prolific garden flowerers looking good too.

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Salvias are among the hardest-working perennials in a summer garden, producing spikes of vivid blooms that attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds for months on end. While these pollinator-friendly favorites are remarkably low maintenance, a little attention in June can make the difference between a brief flowering display and continuous color that lasts right through summer and into fall.

By mid-June, many salvia types are finishing their first major flush of blooms. Whether you grow salvia in sunny borders, pollinator gardens, or patio containers, now is the time to give plants a little care. A few simple tasks, including deadheading and light pruning, will encourage fresh growth and help keep salvias flowering repeatedly for the rest of the season.

In my own garden, I grow Pink Profusion Salvia, which I love for its subtle fragrance and rich, deep pink blooms. I also have my eye on the ‘Back to the Fuchsia’ Salvia – it’s a fantastic option if you’re after a real burst of vibrant color and long-lasting flowers. Both are available from Plant Addicts.

1. Deadhead Spent Flower Spikes

The most important job for salvias in June is deadheading. As the earliest flowers begin to fade, cut the spent flower stems back to the first set of healthy leaves or to a pair of developing side shoots. Deadheading salvia is one of the simplest ways to extend the flowering season, as removing old blooms prevents the plant from putting energy into seed production and instead encourages it to produce fresh flower spikes.

Many popular salvias, particularly ornamental varieties, will reward you with a second and even third flush of flowers if you keep up with deadheading throughout the season. Check your plants every week or so and promptly remove any fading stems to keep plants looking tidy and blooming freely.

A pair of sharp, clean pruners will make the job much easier. The PrunePro Pruning Shears Gardening Scissors Set from Amazon features precision micro-tip blades that are ideal for snipping spent salvia flower spikes without damaging surrounding buds, making it a handy tool for deadheading salvia throughout the summer.

2. Give Plants a Light Trim

While the previous step is all about deadheading individual spent blooms, a light trim can also help refresh salvias that are starting to look a little untidy after their first flush of flowers. Cutting back up to one-third of the flowering stems encourages fresh growth from the base and helps plants maintain a compact, bushy shape.

To prune salvia, I use the Fiskars 6-Inch Pruning Scissors for Flower Stems to tackle this job, as the narrow blades make it easy to tidy up plants without causing too much of a stir.

This approach is especially useful for herbaceous salvias, which can become leggy by midsummer if left entirely to their own devices. Just avoid cutting into old, woody growth, particularly on shrubby salvias, as these stems can be slow to regenerate.

3. Water Deeply During Dry Spells

Although established salvias are generally drought-tolerant, June can bring periods of heat that place newly planted specimens under stress. If rainfall has been scarce, water deeply once or twice a week rather than giving plants frequent shallow drinks. This approach is especially important when watering plants in a heatwave, as deep soaking encourages roots to grow further into the soil, creating stronger, more resilient plants that are better able to cope with prolonged hot weather later in the season.

Try to water early in the morning so moisture has time to reach the roots before temperatures rise and the foliage can dry during the day. If you're watering by hand, the best-selling AUTOMAN Garden Hose Nozzle from Amazon is a handy option, with multiple spray settings that make it easy to give newly planted salvias a slow, deep soak during hot spells.

4. Feed Lightly to Encourage Repeat Blooms

Salvias are not particularly hungry plants, but a light application of balanced liquid fertilizer in June can support continuous flowering. If you're wondering how to fertilize salvias, the key is to feed lightly and avoid overdoing it. High-nitrogen fertilizers tend to encourage lush, leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so opt for a balanced feed or one formulated for flowering plants and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For most salvias, one light feeding after deadheading the first flush of blooms is often enough to keep plants performing strongly through the rest of the summer. Salvias also benefit from a potassium-rich tomato feed, which encourages more flowers rather than excess foliage. Products such as Miracle-Gro Shake 'N Feed All Purpose Plant Food from Amazon and Burpee 8 lbs. Organic Dry Fertilizer Tomato from The Home Depot are both good options for supporting repeat blooms and keeping plants flowering freely through the season.

5. Keep an Eye on Overcrowding

June is also a good time to take stock of the plants growing around your salvias. These sun-loving perennials thrive in open, airy positions, but neighboring plants can quickly begin to crowd them out as garden borders fill in.

If foliage is becoming congested, gently cut back nearby plants or remove any weeds competing for light, moisture, and nutrients. Giving salvias a little extra breathing room not only helps them flower more freely but also improves air circulation around the plants, reducing the risk of fungal issues during periods of heat and humidity.

The June Salvia Mistake to Avoid

The biggest mistake gardeners make with salvias in June is leaving spent flowers in place. It’s easy to let them go while the plant still looks good, but once flower spikes start setting seed, blooming often begins to slow down.

A few minutes spent deadheading salvia each week can make a real difference, encouraging wave after wave of fresh flowers and keeping these pollinator-friendly plants performing at their best through summer. With regular deadheading, a light trim, and the occasional watering during dry spells, salvias will keep producing colourful blooms well into late summer and, in many gardens, right up until the first frosts.

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I added a 'Ghislaine de Féligonde' rambling rose to my garden last year and it has come back double the height and with even more blooms this spring. I've managed to achieve such a full and prolific display by keeping on top of seasonal tasks – and June comes with its own set to tick off.

If you also grow a rambling rose, you likely have a gorgeous, fragrant display right now (though, exact blooming time depends on the variety). This means some light pruning, tying in new growth, and deep watering is essential to do now for early summer care that extends your display until fall.

Here, I talk through exactly what to do with a rambling rose in June, so you can get the most out of this cottage garden staple.

1. Tie In Stems

While the main time to train a rambling rose (and indeed train a climbing rose) is when it isn't flowering (in spring and fall), you can do some light tying in June to protect any wayward stems that could snap in a sudden gust of wind.

One of the best pieces of advice I was given about my rambling rose was to train it into a fan shape on my trellis. The near-horizontal stems slow down the flow of sap and trick the plant into distributing energy all over, rather than rushing to the tips. This results in more bloom coverage and reduces bare, leafy patches.

It's best to use soft ties (like these from Amazon) or garden twine (like this from Lowe's) when attaching new growth to your plant support, leaving a finger's width between the stem and the support to ensure the ties don't cut into the plant.

2. Keep Deadheading

Although one of the biggest differences between climbing roses and rambling roses is that the former is much more likely to rebloom, there are some ramblers that have repeat displays.

This includes this 'Super Dorothy' rose from Amazon and 'Darwin's Enigma' rose from Amazon.

If your rambling rose is a repeat-flowering variety, then keep garden snips close to hand. These Fiskars gardening snips from Amazon are a good choice for the delicate rose stems.

You should deadhead your roses at the base of the flower stems, cutting at a node where new growth will emerge. This helps redirect the plant's energy into new growth and will extend your display.

If your rambling rose is a once-flowering variety, then there's no need to deadhead or tidy up the plant quickly. Leaving the spent blooms will often lead to the development of rosehips, which look particularly beautiful in fall.

You can find the best roses for rosehips in our expert guide.

3. Don't Fertilize Yet

There are a few rules to follow when it comes to fertilizing your rose (of any kind) to optimize its display.

If you provided your rose with a slow-release rose feed earlier in spring (March-April is the ideal window), then you don't need to top up with fertilizer in June – even if you are fertilizing the rest of your garden with an all-purpose feed (like this Miracle Gro one from Lowe's).

This is especially true for once-flowering varieties. In fact, fertilizing now could overload the plant, resulting in root burn, wilting, and a general decline in health.

However, for repeat-bloomers there is another opportunity to feed your rose. Once the first flush fades, you can use a liquid fertilizer (like this rose liquid feed from Amazon) to boost nutrients and support a second flush. You can also use a potash feed, like this tomato feed from Amazon.

This will happen later in the season, so for now just sit back and enjoy the early summer display.

4. Keep It Hydrated

With temperatures warming this month, it's important to keep on top of rose watering. Though, the age of your rose will determine just how much extra water it needs.

Newly planted roses will need some consistent watering as summer heat arrives to prevent heat stress and help them establish. Mature roses will be a lot more drought-tolerant, though weekly deep watering in warm spells will keep it hydrated and support its flowering.

Signs your rambling rose is underwatered include flowers fading quickly, wilting, and dropping leaves. Our guide to watering plants during a heatwave has more advice for keeping your rose happy through summer.

To ensure you also don't overwater your rose and cause root rot, use a soil moisture meter (I have this one from Amazon). I take regular readings to ensure my rose is sufficiently hydrated, as it helps me identify when to pick up my watering can without oversaturating the soil.

5. Check For Aphids

When I was watering my garden a couple of weeks ago I was horrified to see what's pictured in the image above: rose aphids all over new buds that are yet to open.

These spring and summer garden pests emerge around the same time as soft new growth on your rose, so now is the time to check for them (and other rose pests) and get rid of aphids as soon as you spot them.

You should inspect new shoot tips and the stems and buds just below them. These destructive pests cluster together and feed on soft growth, so also check on the underside of new foliage. They can be green, pink, or brown, depending on the species.

Some common signs of aphids on your rose include distorted and curling leaves, misshapen flower buds, sticky residue, and ant activity, as they 'farm' aphids for their honeydew. You may also spot the white cast shells of aphids as they shed their skin.

The good news is they rarely pose long-term damage to established roses, though blooms may be distorted in the short-term. They are also relatively easy to get rid of, especially if caught early.

I used my garden hose to blast them off my rose, which was effective and they didn't return. You can also pick them off and squish them or use a DIY aphid spray with dish soap and water to dry them out. You can also opt for insecticidal soap spray (available at Amazon).

I also relied on the natural pest control of beneficial insects to get rid of the aphids. I noticed quite a few ladybugs around my rose, which are aphid predators and help control their populations.

Keep inspecting your rose weekly throughout the summer months to catch aphid problems as early as possible.

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The main thing to do with your rambling rose over the next couple of months is just enjoy. Light maintenance can help keep up aesthetics, but the summer isn't for major TLC. Once the end of summer rolls around, you'll want to prune your rambling rose and revive it after a tiring season of vigorous blooming.

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If your garden plants are struggling and less than impressive, then it's likely time to look at your watering regime. June is a month when it's so very easy to let watering slip, as the weather is usually fairly clement, with sunshine and showers plentiful. But that could be where you're going wrong.

As luck would have it, in the majority of sad midsummer garden situations, genning up on the problem and tweaking your care routine is all that's needed. I'm going to guide you through the reality of summer rainfall and when to water a garden, and point you in the direction of a thriving June backyard without the need for too much fuss.

Understanding your watering regime will support healthy growth, pest and disease resistance and, ultimately, a flourishing, colorful backyard right through the driest months of the year.

Know Your Weather

June weather in Northern US and cooler zones can seem ideal. The days are long, the soil is warm and the sun is hot but not scorching. Showers can be abundant. It's the time for growth and profusion in the backyard.

In Southern US and hot zones, the heat is already intense, with much less rainfall, so it's easier to realise that it's time to be vigilant with watering.

But in most areas, it's more than likely you're not watering enough and face the facts on how to water plants.

A half-hour shower every few days may barely affect the deeper moisture levels of the soil. Air temperatures are high, which means that rainfall will soon evaporate. Sunshine with a brisk breeze is a killer combo for plants, adding to water lost through evaporation.

Then factor in that this is the main growth period for all your garden plants, meaning they need more water than usual, and you'll soon understand why watering – and watering well – must be your top priority in June.

Be Wise To Your Backyard's Driest Areas

There are a handful of places in your backyard that suffer most from lack of water in summer, and indeed all year round. Some of these may surprise you.

First up, pots and planters. If you're guilty of skipping watering for a few days after a rain shower, don't be surprised when the glory of your carefully curated collection begin to fade.

Above each pot of geraniums, hostas or petunias is a dense canopy of leaves that acts just like an umbrella over your plants, directing water away from them and on to the patio around them. For proof, poke a finger into the soil and chances are it's dry as a bone, even after rain.

Ever heard of 'rain shadow'? This is the name for the dry areas created at the food of walls, fences and outbuildings, which can block rainfall by as much as 75 per cent in the zone up to 3ft (1m) from the barrier. That's a significant problem. If you've got containers placed near barriers or sheds, then that's double the risk to lack of rainwater.

A brilliant addition to an outbuilding such as a shed (and of course to any downpipe coming from the roof of your house) is a rain barrel or rain chain. You can find a verdigris copper rain chain at Amazon.

The earlier you instal one, the sooner you'll be able to harvest free rainwater for your cherished plants. It's a brilliant way to reduce water waste in your yard.

The canopies of trees and shrubs also create similar issues, while their roots can also extend far into lawns and flowerbeds where they quickly drain moisture from the soil, depriving other plants around them.

The final place where you need to pay extra attention is when you're gardening on slopes and banks, where rainwater naturally drains away more quickly.

You can shop rain barrels at Ace Hardware.

Take Care Of New Plants

We all know that when your sparkling new arrivals get home from the garden centre, they need to be planted and watered in well. That's the part most of us gardeners remember.

But what about the next few weeks and months? To thrive, those purchases need to put down new roots deep into the soil, where they can access available water. To do that, they need the encouragement of moist earth that goes down well beyond their original planting depth.

This means watering deeply and thoroughly throughout their first growing season, into fall (stopping watering is one of the biggest fall gardening mistakes) and often winter too, especially if the weather is on the dry side for that time of year.

Spotting The Signs of Lack Of Water

The most obvious signs that your plants need more water are drooping or wilting leaves, foliage that's turned yellow, brown or showing crisped edges, or even shedding of leaves, which plants can resort to in times of water stress.

Some plants, like hydrangeas and newly planted veg seedlings, are more susceptible than others.

But there are signs that are less immediately evident too. Plants that have become infested with pests or prone to disease are likely to be under stress, and that can often be from lack of water. I

n fact, watering correctly is one of the best natural pest control methods. So fix the water issue and you may well get rid of the disease and/or pests that are troubling your plants.

Watering Plants Well In June

The first mistake gardeners often make when watering is to use a watering can with a rose attachment. In summer especially, this will sprinkle water generously on the foliage of your plants only for it to evaporate in the heat of the day, as well as encourage mold and mildew.

Very little will reach the plants' roots, where it is needed. So keep the rose for small seedlings only, which could be damaged by stronger jets of water. It's a good idea to invest in a watering can such as this long-spout 2-gallon design with detachable shower head from Home Depot.

The same applies when using a hose. Use a jet rather than spray setting. And, hose or watering can, direct the flow right at the base of each plant, and hold it there for much longer than you think is needed. You want to see a nice puddle of water around each plant. Deep and long are the two words to remember when watering plants in June.

There are some brilliant hose designs available these days – take a look at this selection at Lowes. There are plenty of ways to disguise a garden hose too, so watering well needn't make your outdoor space less attractive.

The time of day that you water is hugely important. The best time to water your garden is in the morning, before the heat of the day, and when leaves have a chance to dry out. Second best is in the evening. Water during the day and you'll lose a lot of water through evaporation.

For even greater efficiency, group containers together and use an irrigation kit like one of these from Lowes, set on a timer to keep pots from drying out.

You can also shop irrigation timers at Lowes.

Timing and generosity are the keys to watering plants in June. And just a little bit of knowledge of which plants and where can suffer the most stress from lack of water. Get these right and your backyard will flourish in midsummer and beyond.

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As the garden really starts to fill up in June, there can be an urge to cut things back in an attempt to wrestle back control. While there are shrubs, perennials, and hedges that will benefit from a trim now, others won’t. Here are some plants to never prune in June, and why.

Summer bloomers rank high on the plants not to prune this month, for the simple reason that you’ll lose flowers. Add to that, some gardeners might not want to prune shrubs that flower in spring, as missing the boat means you’ll affect next year’s display. The consequences of improper pruning can stretch further than no blooms, though, as oak and elm trees are at risk of fatal diseases if they are pruned this month.

Knowing the right plants to prune in June ensures your garden remains beautiful and healthy. And understanding what not to prune in summer prevents missing out on flowers or unnecessarily putting trees at risk. Let’s take a look at four groups of plants to never prune in June, and see how many feature in your yard.

1. Summer-Blooming Plants

This one will just make sense to any gardener, but it warrants mentioning just in case. I know I might be teaching you to suck eggs, but there is no wisdom in pruning shrubs that burst into show in summer.

Any flowering shrub that naturally produces its flowers in summer will have spent many months forming buds and developing growth all in anticipation of blossoming. Why let them go through all that, only to prune them back before they’ve put on a show?

Any pruning this month will inhibit the display of flowers. You’ll merely remove flower buds – so don’t do it. This guidance covers panicle hydrangea, butterfly bush, rose of Sharon, crepe myrtle, hibiscus, smoke bush, potentilla, bluebeard, and many more.

If in doubt, remember the general rule of thumb that any plants that bloom from June onwards should be pruned in late winter or early spring, and not in summer. If it flowers before June, prune it after flowering.

It is not just shrubs that this applies to; the pruning guidance also covers perennial plants and flowering climbers that bloom in summer, like clematis, honeysuckle, passionflower, and star jasmine. These are all plants to never prune in June, too.

2. Trees at Risk of Disease

Losing flowers is bad enough, but there are some pruning mistakes you can potentially make this month that can have much more serious consequences.

One such error to avoid is pruning oak trees; these statuesque beauties should NEVER be pruned in June. If you trim an oak in early summer, the tree will bleed sap and attract pests that can carry oak wilt (Ceratocystis fagacearum).

The devastating fungal disease can quickly kill trees, potentially within months. It is a serious issue across the US, and it affects almost all types of oak. Only ever prune oaks during their dormancy, when the beetles that carry the fungus aren’t active.

The same guidance applies to pruning elm trees. The elm bark beetle carries the fatal Dutch elm disease, which is responsible for the death of millions of elms in Europe and North America. These beetles are attracted to the pruning cuts when active in spring and summer.

You should only ever prune elms in winter. Indeed, some states have restrictions on when elms can be trimmed. These are put in place to protect tree populations, so check any regulations for where you live.

Finally, trees at risk of the bacterial disease fireblight should not be pruned in early summer. That includes crabapples, mountain ash, and hawthorns.

3. Spring-Flowering Shrubs

This one isn’t a one-size-fits-all warning. Indeed, spring-flowering shrubs will only be plants to never prune in June if you live in warmer climates, while gardeners in colder zones may actually need to trim early this month.

We’re talking about the likes of rhododendron, azalea, forsythia, lilac, weigela, viburnum, and camellia. And it all comes down to when your spring-flowering shrubs bloom.

All these plants want to be pruned right after they finish flowering, as they start developing next year’s buds quickly after this year’s blooms end. If you wait too long to head out with the pruning tools, you can all too easily cut off next year’s buds.

If your shrubs are only just coming to the end of their show, then go ahead and prune – but be prompt about it.

If yours finished earlier in the spring, certainly anything more than a few weeks ago, it might be better to leave trimming for this year rather than depleting next spring’s display.

Prune if you might, but accept you’ll get fewer flowers – you have been warned.

4. Trees Vulnerable to Sap Loss

There are some trees known as ‘bleeder trees’ for their tendency to lose lots of sap when they are pruned. This list includes maples, birches, and walnuts.

In early summer, these trees have high sap pressure and will bleed large amounts of sap if they are pruned this month. While losing sap won’t necessarily kill a tree, it does weaken it and leave it more susceptible to pests and diseases.

If you wonder when to prune trees that are known to bleed lots of sap, the best course of action is to trim them in mid-to-late summer, when the sap flow isn’t as high.

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Let’s turn things around to end with. Rather than telling you what not to do this month, let’s look at what you can do in June.

The good news is that there is a lot you can plant in June, including fast-growing annual flowers, biennials to bloom next year, quick crops for summer pickings, and vegetables you’ll be harvesting in winter.

It really is a rich month for transforming flower beds and vegetable gardens, so why not get out, take advantage of the good weather, and get planting?

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Grape vines may conjure images of sprawling vineyards, but they can be grown in smaller spaces by encouraging them vertically up a wall or fence. June is a crucial month for the development of fruits, and a few key tasks help you get the best harvest in late summer or early fall.

This month is an opportune time to prune stems and thin fruits to help the grapes ripen. Also, regular watering and a June feed will help those currently small fruits develop into larger ones for picking. And you will need to protect your crop from pests this month if you grow grapes outdoors.

An important aspect of understanding how to grow grapes is adopting the right seasonal care. True, caring for grapes does need patience and attention, but this is more than worth it when you harvest the bunches. I have maintained and cropped vines in greenhouses over the years, and here are five tasks I believe may stand between a satisfying and a disappointing harvest.

1. Give Vines a Summer Prune

Knowing when to prune grape vines is crucial. The major pruning takes place in winter, when the vines are dormant, but there are benefits from giving them a light summer prune, too.

Cutting back shoots in early summer thins weak or crowded shoots and removes excess foliage, improving air circulation and sun exposure. These are essential factors in successfully ripening the fruits and preventing fungal diseases, including powdery mildew.

As for how to prune grape vines this month, use a pair of clean, sharp pruning tools to cut back shoots to two sets of leaves past a developing bunch of grapes. You can also nip out leaves growing around the fruit, so that sunlight can reach the grapes.

Prune out any stems that aren’t carrying fruit to ensure the plant doesn’t waste energy, unless you are keeping them to develop the future framework of the vine.

An additional summer trimming task is to scour the trunk and remove any suckers or shoots that appear. Again, this prevents the vine from wasting energy on developing unwanted growth.

2. Thin the Fruits so the Rest Can Swell

Once the vine has started producing berries, it is an opportune time to thin the fruits. Often, a vine starts developing more fruit than it can sustain all the way through to harvest.

If you leave all the fruits, you’ll get lots of small, disappointing, inedible grapes. It may seem counterintuitive, but removing fruits gives you a better crop, as the remaining ones will swell further and ripen fully.

An easy method to adopt is to thin the developing clusters, leaving only one or two per shoot. The remaining bunches will swell, and you’ll have bigger and better grapes to pick.

Also, removing excess clusters also improves air circulation and sunlight (like when removing foliage) to keep the vines healthy.

Some growers will also hand-thin berries to remove one in three grapes. This technique will help you get bigger grapes, but it can be very tricky, and is not completely necessary for home gardeners.

A useful tool for thinning clusters of developing grapes can be a pair of garden snips. A product like these Fiskars pruning snips, available at Amazon, has sharp, straight micro-tip blades to get into smaller gaps when precision is needed.

3. Tie in New Shoots so the Vine Is Supported

Grapes are vigorous climbers that need to be trained. This can be to a fence, wall, or trellis, or the plants can be grown up a pergola or arbor.

Wherever you grow grapes, June is a great time to check all the stems and ensure that the shoots are trained and tied in. They must remain supported as the bunches develop to avoid losing grapes as stems snap or are damaged during the summer.

The best plant ties are soft and won’t damage the stems as they grow. Twine is a common material, or you can use reusable soft ties, or flexi-ties. These Velcro garden ties, available at Walmart, are great options as they are soft, non-slip, and reusable.

4. Water and Feed Vines to Support Developing Grapes

How much you need to water a grape vine in June will depend on where it is growing. Vines with their roots growing indoors, such as in a greenhouse, may need more watering than those outdoors.

Grape vines like consistent moisture. During dry periods, which can occur in early summer, keep a close eye on the soil’s moisture levels and water vines deeply if needed – a soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, offers a quick and easy way to check.

It is an important time to be diligent with watering, as drought stress can affect the fruiting or even cause the vines to drop fruit in extreme circumstances. The best approach is to water deeply and soak the base of the vine, rather than the foliage, so the moisture gets to the roots.

Once the grapes start to swell, feed the vines with a high-potassium liquid feed to help them develop healthily. An ideal product for this is a liquid tomato feed, such as this tomato booster fertilizer at Amazon.

Mix the liquid concentrate in a watering can and apply it when you water plants. A weekly or fortnightly feed is beneficial until the grapes start to ripen, usually indicated by the color changing.

5. Protect Fruits From Pests

Developing fruits are at risk in early summer. You may be looking at them and imagining the harvests to come, but birds and wasps are also likely eyeing up your fruits. June is a good time to protect your pickings.

To protect fruits in your yard, you can cover the entire vine in garden netting. For a physical barrier, fine netting (you can get 8 x 20 feet garden netting at Walmart) can be draped over the vines.

This needs to be secured to the ground with landscape staples (you can get a 50-pack of landscape staples at Ace Hardware) or heavy weights, to prevent birds from sneaking in and getting stuck.

Rather than covering an entire vine, individual bunches of grapes can be covered with mesh bags. Using fine mesh or organza mesh bags to protect crops works perfectly. It allows light, air, and water through, but stops pests from getting to the fruits. You can get 100 fruit protection bags at Amazon to use on various fruits.

Alternatively, decoys and deterrents can be placed around the vines to deter birds. Hanging old CDs, DVDs, or balls of aluminum foil can deter pests as they catch and reflect the light to startle birds. Or you can use decoys like scarecrows, owls, or flying hawk kites.

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June is a significant month for many different fruits, not just grapes. That includes if you are growing raspberries. In early summer, those with early varieties of summer-fruiting raspberries can start to enjoy picking the sweet fruits.

Aside from harvesting, raspberry plants in June need watering to plump up the fruits, feeding to encourage ripening, and weeding, so the canes get all the water and nutrients available in the soil.

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I’m growing clematis in my garden for the first time, and I love how quickly it’s taken off now that early summer has arrived. It's already started climbing up my fence and trellis.

I’ve always wanted to grow clematis because it adds impressive height and vibrant color without taking up much space at ground level. The Samaritan Jo™ Clematis from Plant Addicts is a great option if you’re looking for something with soft, understated tones. Whether it’s softening a backyard fence, climbing a mailbox post, or weaving through climbing roses, clematis has a way of tying everything together and making a garden feel more established, layered, and complete.

Even though it looks impressive, I’ve found clematis care at this stage is actually pretty straightforward. A few small jobs now go a long way later in summer, helping plants stay healthy, flower more heavily, and cope better with the heat and humidity we get at this time of the year. I’m already seeing why it’s considered one of the best clematis to grow – it’s doing a lot of the work itself, but really responds well to a bit of early attention.

1. Keep Clematis Watered During Hot Weather

Clematis really prefers cool roots and evenly moist soil, especially once temperatures start rising in early summer. In the US, heat and dry spells can arrive quickly depending on where you live, and I’ve noticed young vines can dry out much faster than you’d expect.

Instead of giving them a little water every day, I’ve had much better results with a deep soak once or twice a week, adjusting for rain and temperature. It feels like a small change, but it really helps roots grow deeper and makes the plants much more resilient when long hot stretches arrive later in summer.

If you’re growing clematis in pots or containers, it’s a different story – they usually need watering more often, especially in hotter southern and western states where pots can dry out in a single day. One piece of advice I keep coming back to is the old saying that clematis likes its ‘head in the sun and roots in the shade’. It really does ring true. A layer of mulch around the base helps keep the root zone cooler and holds moisture in the soil, which makes a big difference during heat waves.

For easier, consistent watering, especially if you’re not always around to keep up with dry spells, a simple Orbit Drip Watering Kit with Hose Faucet Timer from The Home Depot can be a real help for keeping soil evenly moist without overdoing it.

2. Feed Plants for Better Flowers

Once clematis starts growing strongly, it really helps to fertilize clematis regularly to support all that growth and flowering. I usually feed plants every couple of weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer while vines are actively putting on new shoots.

Then, once buds start to form, I switch to a bloom booster or a tomato fertilizer with more potassium to encourage a fuller, heavier display of flowers. It’s a simple change, but it makes a noticeable difference once blooming really kicks in.

It’s worth being careful with high-nitrogen fertilizers, though. They tend to push lots of leafy growth at the expense of flowers, which isn’t what you want when clematis is starting to perform. Products like Miracle-Gro Shake ’N Feed All Purpose Plant Food or TPS Clematis Fertilizer, both widely available on Amazon, are commonly used by gardeners for this kind of seasonal feeding.

3. Tie in New Growth Before It Sprawls

One thing that surprised me this year is just how quickly my clematis has grown. I’ve really noticed how fast it’s starting to sprawl in different directions once the warm weather arrived. Fresh stems can easily tangle or get damaged in strong summer storms if they aren’t supported early enough. This happened to me recently, so it was a lesson I wanted to share.

I always try to guide new shoots onto their supports while the stems are still soft and flexible. It makes everything much easier and helps the plant grow in the direction you actually want. Soft plant ties or garden twine work well, especially for younger vines that haven’t fully attached yet. A simple option like VELCRO Adjustable Plant Ties from Amazon is especially handy because you can reuse them and adjust as the stems thicken.

Whether your clematis is growing over a pergola, trellis, archway, or even a porch railing, spending a few minutes training stems now really pays off later in the season when the plant fills out properly.

4. Deadhead Early-Flowering Varieties

Some spring-blooming clematis varieties start to fade as early summer settles in, and this is when it really helps to deadhead clematis and prune clematis to keep the plant looking tidy and encourage fresh growth. I’ve noticed that if I stay on top of it, the whole vine just looks healthier and more controlled.

With repeat-flowering clematis types, removing spent blooms can even trigger another flush later in the season, which is always a nice bonus. It’s a simple job too – just trim faded flowers back to a healthy pair of leaves.

I also use this moment to tidy up any weak or tangled stems and open the plant up a bit for better airflow. A pair of Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Walmart or Amazon makes the job quick and clean without crushing the stems.

5. Watch for Clematis Wilt and Aphids

Early summer is when a few common clematis problems tend to show up, along with other typical summer pests in the garden. Clematis wilt is probably the most frustrating – stems can suddenly blacken and collapse almost overnight.

If you notice it, the best thing to do is cut affected growth straight back to healthy stems and dispose of the damaged material. It looks dramatic, but many plants bounce back well once the problem is removed.

Aphids can also appear on soft new shoots at this time of year, though ladybugs and other beneficial insects usually help keep them under control naturally. If they do build up, a strong spray of water or a ready-to-use insecticidal soap is often enough to knock them back. A widely used option from The Home Depot is Bonide Insecticidal Soap, which works well on soft-bodied summer pests without being too harsh on tender growth.

Good airflow around the plant also makes a real difference, helping reduce fungal issues later in summer, especially in humid parts of the US.

Clematis may look delicate, but once it’s established, it’s actually a tough, reliable climber.

It’s also a good time to think ahead if you want to propagate clematis plants, since strong, actively growing vines tend to root and establish more successfully. Even small efforts now can pay off later if you’re planning to expand your collection.

Trust me, if you want to cover unsightly fences or walls, you won't regret growing clematis in your backyard.

Now that June is here, my tomato seedlings are shooting up and getting ready for another productive season. But, to ensure an abundant harvest in the coming months, there are a few tasks to tick off now.

Growing tomatoes is joyous, as they're one of the most beginner-friendly veg to grow. However, without doing some essential care along the way, you could accidentally make some common tomato growing mistakes. In June, key tasks include tying in vines, removing side shoots, and starting to feed your plants as bright yellow flowers emerge. Of course, your climate and when you sowed your seeds will impact exactly what needs to be done now, though all of these tomato growing tasks shouldn't be far away.

So, to help keep your tomatoes in top form, I asked a gardening expert what to do with tomato plants in June. Here are five key tasks they pulled out.

1. Support Vining Varieties

This task all depends on whether you're growing indeterminate or determinate tomatoes, i.e. vining or bush types. The former will need staking as the plants grow bigger and create vines that need a support to climb.

If you already transplanted your tomato seedlings, you likely have a plant support in place (like these bamboo stakes from Amazon or this tomato cage from Walmart). This provides a structure for the vines to climb, so keep in mind how tall your specific variety typically grows when selecting a support.

Once seedlings are around 10-12 inches in height, you should gently tie them to the support to hold them upright and train them.

'Use soft materials that won’t damage the stem, such as special plastic clips, garden tape, or strips of cotton fabric,' says Halina Shamshur, gardening expert from Plantum.

'Never use thin fishing line or wire, and don’t tighten the ties too much. You need to leave some space for the stem to thicken as the plant grows,' she explains.

Popular choices are soft ties and garden twine (like this from Lowe's).

As the main stem continues to grow, tie it in to prevent flopping. You can also use the tomato string method to train indeterminate varieties – a method that provides plenty of airflow.

2. Remove Side Shoots

As tomato stems grow, it's important to check them regularly for side shoots, or 'suckers.' These are found between the main stem and the branching stems, emerging as smaller offshoots.

The reason you should prune your tomato plant to remove them is because they drain the plant's energy with unnecessary vegetative growth.

You can use your fingertips to pinch them off, redirecting the plant's energy towards flower production and then eventually fruiting.

'Also, remove the lower leaves that touch the soil to prevent fungal diseases,' Halina says.

There are several tomato plant diseases to watch out for, but removing the lowest leaves improves air circulation and prevents soil-borne diseases from touching the foliage.

Later on, this also helps redirect the plant's energy into fruit production by removing unproductive lower foliage.

Always use clean and sharp pruning tools for this, like these Fiskars gardening snips from Amazon.

'Cut off no more than 1–2 leaves per week to avoid stressing the plant,' Halina advises.

3. Feed Your Tomato Plants

Fertilizing tomatoes is a necessity if you want to increase your tomato yields, as these crops are heavy feeders. But, they only need to be fertilized once the yellow flowers appear.

'At the beginning of flowering and fruit formation, use fertilizers high in potassium and phosphorus. Don’t apply nitrogen fertilizers, as this will cause the plant to produce excessive foliage at the expense of fruit,' Halina advises.

Plant fertilizer numbers indicate the volume of each essential plant nutrient in the product. As tomatoes begin forming flowers, you should use a tomato fertilizer with a low nitrogen number (like this from Amazon) to support cropping rather than vegetative growth.

You should apply tomato feeds (this one from Lowe's is also a good option) once a week during the flowering stage to support production. Take care not to overfeed, as it can burn roots and lead to flowers dropping.

4. Water Consistently

As temperatures rise in early summer, it's really important to keep on top of watering tomato plants so they stay hydrated. Too little water during hotter spells can result in tomato plants wilting.

'Water your tomatoes regularly and don’t allow the soil to dry out. It should remain moist but not waterlogged. If it dries out, tomatoes will drop buds,' Halina warns.

'In sunny, hot, and dry weather, the plants may require daily watering. At moderate temperatures, water approximately every 2–3 days. Don’t water from above or wet the leaves, pour only at the base of the plant. This helps prevent sunburn and reduces the risk of fungal diseases such as late blight,' she advises.

I always rely on my soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) to identify whether my plants need watering. This helps prevent overwatering, so you don't put your tomato plants at risk of root rot or tomatoes splitting from excess water.

5. Protect From Scorching Temperatures

Even though tomato plants are sun-lovers, extreme hot weather does pose a risk. For this reason, you should keep an eye on the forecast in the summer months and protect plants from a heatwave accordingly.

'At high temperatures (above 90°F), tomato pollen becomes sterile, which leads to flowers dropping and fruit failing to form,' Halina warns. 'Bright sun exposure can also cause leaf burn,' she adds.

Generally speaking, the ideal temperature for tomato plants is between 64-80°F. Higher than this can cause symptoms like wilting and bud drop, resulting in less fruit.

For this reason, Halina suggests using things like a 50% shade cloth (like this one available on Amazon) to protect tomato plants.

You can also apply mulch to lock in moisture around the base of your tomato plants, helping them stay hydrated during hotter spells. This bark chip from Lowe's is a good choice, just take care to leave a 2-3 inch gap around the stems to prevent fungal diseases and rot.

And if you're growing your tomatoes in a greenhouse, don't forget to ventilate your greenhouse during extreme heat to avoid sweltering temperatures inside. This greenhouse thermometer from Walmart can help you monitor the growing conditions.

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Watering is really key to get right over the next few months. Irregular watering can cause tomato splitting, blossom end rot, and wilting. Checking the soil moisture regularly is the best way to ensure your plants are sufficiently hydrated in warmer conditions.

You may also be interested in finding out more about tomato tapping during the flowering stage, which can bring bigger yields later on.

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June is an exciting month for dahlias, and it’s one of my favorite times in the garden. I love growing dahlias because they change so fast this time of year – suddenly plants are taller, fuller, and, in warmer parts of the US, some are already starting to form buds. It’s also the point when good dahlia care starts to pay off later in summer.

A nostalgic favorite, growing dahlias have become hugely popular again in recent years, and it’s easy to understand why. There are so many beautiful dahlia types to grow, from small pompon and waterlily varieties to dramatic dinnerplate and cactus dahlias. They also come in almost every color imaginable, making them one of the most versatile summer flowers for US gardens.

A few simple jobs in June – like staking, feeding, watering deeply, and pinching back stems – can make the difference between weak plants with a few flowers and strong, bloom-filled dahlias that keep going right into fall.

1. Plant Out Tubers and Young Plants

If you haven’t had the chance to plant dahlia tubers yet because of late spring weather, early June is usually your last good window in cooler parts of the US. Dahlias love warmth and don’t do well in cold, soggy soil, so it’s often better to wait until overnight temperatures are consistently mild before planting.

Choose a sunny spot with rich, well-draining soil. Most dahlias need at least six hours of direct sun each day, although gardeners in hotter southern states may find plants benefit from a little afternoon shade during peak summer heat.

When you plant dahlia tubers, set them around 4 to 6 inches deep and leave about 2 feet between taller varieties to improve airflow later in the season. Water them in well, then avoid overwatering until you see strong new growth, since overly wet soil can quickly rot young tubers.

If you’re still shopping, many of the best places to buy dahlia tubers include specialist flower farms, local garden centers, and online dahlia growers, which often offer a much wider range of dahlia types than big-box stores.

2. Stake Tall Varieties Early

Staking dahlias is one of those jobs that’s easy to delay – until a summer storm rolls through and flattens your plants overnight. By this time of the year, many dahlias are growing fast, and their hollow stems can snap surprisingly easily once the flowers start getting larger and heavier. Getting the right support in place early makes a huge difference later in the season.

I always try to add stakes while plants are still fairly small. It’s much easier, and you avoid damaging tubers or roots trying to force supports into the ground later on. Bamboo canes work well for individual plants, especially in garden borders where you want supports to blend in naturally. As stems grow, loosely tie them in with soft twine or plant ties so they still have room to move.

For taller or heavier dahlias, tomato cages can be a lifesaver too, particularly in containers or windy gardens where plants need extra stability. The bigger the blooms, the more support plants usually need by midsummer.

Two useful options I’d recommend are the Heavy Duty Bamboo Garden Stakes from Amazon for staking individual stems discreetly, and the Adjustable Tomato Cage Trellis from Amazon for supporting larger, top-heavy plants in pots or borders.

3. Pinch Out Growing Tips for Bushier Plants

Once dahlias reach around 12 to 16 inches tall, it’s time to pinch out dahlias – one of those simple but surprisingly important jobs that really shape how the plants perform later on. It can feel a bit counterintuitive to cut back healthy growth just as everything is taking off, but it makes a big difference.

By removing the central growing tip, you encourage the plant to branch out instead of shooting upward on a single stem. The result is a fuller, sturdier plant with many more blooms once summer really gets going.

All you need to do is pinch or snip the main stem just above a set of leaves. You might lose a week or so of early flowers, but the payoff is a much better display overall. Most taller border and cutting dahlia types benefit most from this, while smaller bedding varieties usually don’t need it.

For this job, a clean, sharp tool makes it much easier and helps avoid damaging tender stems. A popular choice with gardeners is the Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, which are ideal for precise work when you pinch out dahlias or trim small side shoots without crushing the plant.

4. Start Feeding Regularly

June is the month when dahlias start growing quickly and using up nutrients fast, so this is the point where it really pays to fertilize dahlias regularly. At this stage, I usually start with a balanced liquid fertilizer every couple of weeks while the plants focus on building strong leaves and stems.

Once buds begin to form later in the season, I switch to a higher-potassium feed to support stronger flowering and better blooms. A good option many US gardeners use is Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food from The Home Depot, which is designed to encourage more flowers rather than leafy growth.

It’s worth being careful with high-nitrogen fertilizers at this stage, since they tend to push lots of foliage but fewer blooms – not what most of us want from dahlias.

I also like to top things off with a layer of compost or well-rotted mulch around the base of plants. It helps the soil retain moisture during hot spells and gradually improves fertility as the season progresses.

5. Water Deeply During Dry Spells

Young dahlias can dry out surprisingly fast in early summer, especially during heat waves or windy spells. When that happens, they can stall quickly, so keeping an eye on moisture levels really helps keep dahlias blooming steadily later in the season.

Instead of light watering every day, it’s better to give plants a deep soak once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and temperature. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, which leads to stronger, more resilient plants as summer goes on.

Container-grown dahlias are a different story – they usually need more frequent watering, particularly in hot US climates where pots can dry out in a single day.

Whenever you can, water at the base of the plant in the early morning. Avoid wetting the foliage late in the day, since that can lead to mildew and other fungal issues once humidity builds in midsummer.

6. Watch for Slugs, Snails, and Aphids

Fresh dahlia growth in June is a magnet for pests, and it’s something most gardeners run into sooner or later. Slugs and snails are usually the first troublemakers – they can strip tender new shoots almost overnight after rain.

It helps to check plants regularly, especially early in the morning or late in the evening when damage is easiest to spot. When it comes to dahlia pests, many gardeners in the US lean on simple, wildlife-friendly methods like barriers, traps, or hand-picking rather than reaching straight for chemicals.

Aphids are another common issue on soft new growth this time of year. The good news is that healthy gardens often balance things out naturally once ladybugs and other beneficial insects arrive. If populations do build up, a gentle but effective option many American gardeners use is Bonide Insecticidal Soap from The Home Depot, which works well for knocking back aphids without being harsh on tender growth.

Good spacing between plants also helps improve airflow, which in turn reduces the risk of fungal problems later in summer.

7. Take Basal Cuttings From Vigorous Plants

If you’re hoping to grow your dahlia collection without spending more money, June is still a good time to take basal cuttings from healthy, fast-growing plants. Choose nonflowering shoots around 3 to 4 inches long and remove them cleanly near the base. Place them into small pots filled with moist potting mix and keep them somewhere warm and lightly humid while roots develop. Not every cutting will take, but successful ones can grow into flowering plants by late summer and provide extra tubers to overwinter for next year.

June is an important month for dahlias. A bit of attention now, especially with staking, feeding, and pinching back stems, makes a noticeable difference later on, leading to stronger plants and a much longer flowering season.

And once dahlias hit their peak in July and August, it’s easy to see why they’ve become so popular in US gardens again. Few plants can compete with their range of colors, shapes, and sizes, and all that variety – from different dahlia types to bold, statement blooms – more than justifies the extra care they need in early summer.

June is when jade plants (Crassula ovata) really start to respond to the changing conditions. The days are longer, the light is stronger, and temperatures are starting to rise, which usually nudges them into more active growth.

If your jade plant care is on track at this point, the plant will generally stay compact, healthy, and well-shaped. If something’s off, though, it shows fairly quickly – you’ll start to notice leggy stems or a slightly uneven look.

The good news is that jade plants are forgiving. Trust me, I've often neglected mine in the past, and it has continued to thrive.

When thinking about what to do with a jade plant in June, it usually comes down to a few small, timely adjustments rather than anything complicated. Those simple tweaks now can make a real difference in how the plant looks throughout summer.

1. Move It Into Brighter Light

If your jade plant has been sitting in a lower-light spot through spring, June is a good time to give it a little more sun. One of the biggest parts of where to place a jade plant is finding a spot with plenty of bright light, ideally with a few hours of gentle direct sun each day.

A south- or west-facing windowsill is usually a good fit. Just avoid moving it straight into intense midday sun too quickly, as the leaves can scorch if the change is too sudden.

If your home doesn’t get enough natural light, a simple grow light can help. Something like the full-spectrum Clip Grow Light from Amazon works well for supplementing light levels, especially in darker rooms or apartments.

If you’re moving your jade outdoors for summer, ease it in gradually. Start it in light shade for a few days, then slowly increase the amount of sun it gets over the course of a week or so. That gentle adjustment helps prevent stress and keeps the leaves looking healthy.

2. Water More Thoughtfully, Not More Frequently

It’s easy to assume warmer weather means you need to water a jade plant more often, but that’s usually where people go wrong. Even in June, jade plants still prefer a 'soak and dry' routine rather than frequent watering. Wait until the soil has dried out, then water thoroughly so the roots get a proper soak. In most homes, that works out to roughly every 10–14 days during summer, though it’s always better to check the soil than follow a strict schedule.

If you tend to forget to water, I actually love using the best-selling Iridescent Self-Watering Globes from Amazon as a little backup during warmer months. They help keep moisture levels steadier without leaving the compost soggy, and they’re far nicer to look at than most practical plant accessories.

The leaves are a useful guide, too. Healthy jade leaves should feel firm and plump. If they start looking soft, thin, or slightly wrinkled, the plant is usually trying to tell you something is off – often either too much water or not enough.

3. Give It A Light Prune To Shape Growth

If your jade is starting to look a little uneven or top-heavy, June is a good time to prune a jade plant and tidy up its shape. You don’t need to be heavy-handed with it, either. Simply pinching back a few newer stems just above a leaf node is often enough to encourage fuller, bushier growth.

Over time, this helps create the thicker, more tree-like structure jade plants are loved for. I like using the Felco Snip Pruning Shears from The Home Depot for quick shaping jobs, though the Fiskars 6" Pruning Scissors for Stems from Amazon are great too if you want something smaller and easier to manoeuvre indoors.

While you’re pruning, it’s also worth removing any weak, crowded, or drooping stems. Opening the plant up slightly improves airflow and helps keep the overall shape looking healthier and more even.

4. Feed Lightly For Steady Growth

Jade plants don’t need much feeding, but a little support in June can help them along. When you fertilize a container plant, such as jade, less really is more – a diluted cactus or succulent fertilizer once a month is usually plenty. I’ve had good results with something like TPS Jade Fertilizer from Amazon, which is formulated specifically for succulents and keeps things simple without encouraging overly soft growth.

The key here is restraint. Too much feed can lead to leggy, weak stems that don’t hold their shape well, which is the opposite of what you want. It’s better to think of it as a gentle nudge to support steady growth, rather than anything more forceful.

5. Keep An Eye On What It’s Telling You

One of the easiest ways to care for jade plants well is simply to keep an eye on them. They’re more expressive than you might expect, and they’ll usually show you pretty quickly if something’s not right.

If the light is too low, you’ll often notice stretched stems and wider gaps between the leaves. On the other hand, too much harsh sun can leave the edges looking dry or slightly red and crispy. When conditions are just right, growth stays compact, and the leaves take on a rich, glossy green, sometimes with a subtle red tint in stronger light.

It is important to note that Jade plants don’t love sudden changes, so a gradual move always works better than a sudden change.

June isn’t really about trying to push jade plants into fast growth – it’s more about helping them settle into a steady, balanced rhythm for summer. If you get the light right, water a little more thoughtfully, and give it a light tidy-up where needed, you’re most of the way there.

Follow this advice, and your jade should stay compact, glossy, and nicely structured well into the warmer months.

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June is a traditional time for gardeners to plant pumpkins and squashes out into the vegetable garden. What is vital to success is that the crops need consistent soil moisture around the roots, and I have two tricks that I have found make a difference when watering these plants.

Neither of these hacks is complicated. One is to plant a pot in the soil next to the plant, so you water into the pot and it delivers moisture to the roots. The other is to mark where you planted the crop, so you know exactly where to water, as it can get confusing when pumpkins produce all their vines and foliage.

When you are growing pumpkins or squashes, it takes mere seconds to dig a pot in the ground and mark the spot with a short bamboo cane. These two simple tricks help with watering pumpkins in hot weather. They make a big difference to how efficiently you water the crop, and give you a plentiful harvest.

Why Pumpkins Need Regular Watering

Pumpkins and squash plants need consistent watering to develop their vines and produce fruit. Many common issues growers experience throughout the season can stem from watering problems – but there are ways to alleviate them.

The plants have two particular traits that contribute to their need for regular moisture throughout the season.

Firstly, plants have shallow roots. Pumpkin roots inhabit only the top 12-18 inches of soil (it can be just 6-12 inches for squash plants), making them more susceptible to drought stress than crops with deep roots that can access moisture deeper in the soil.

The crops need the top zone of the soil to be moist, and those top inches can dry out quickly during hot summer days. Also, the plant’s large foliage actively loses moisture on hot days.

For an abundant harvest of pumpkins to pick, they require an inch of water weekly, though this demand jumps to two inches when the summer heat escalates, or fruits begin to swell. If you have any aspiration to grow a giant pumpkin, feeding it lots of water and nutrients is essential as the fruit develops.

Maintaining consistent soil moisture is vital for the overall health of your crop; a lack of hydration often results in stunted vines, wilting foliage, or yellowing pumpkin leaves - a clear distress signal that your plants are struggling.

That is where any aids for watering pumpkins in hot weather come in handy.

How Does It Help With Watering Pumpkins in Hot Weather?

The ideal way to water pumpkins is to water the soil. Soaking the ground rather than the foliage gets essential moisture to the roots, where it is needed the most.

This can be done with a drip irrigation or a soaker hose, but these mean forking out for a new kit. However, you can put in an efficient watering system using materials most gardeners have lying around in abundance.

Digging a pot into the soil when planting pumpkins is an efficient way to direct the water to the roots. It doesn’t need to be a big pot; I have done it with a four or five-inch-wide plastic container. You can get suitable nursery pots at Amazon if you don't have any spare in your shed.

When you water plants, simply pour water into the pot to fill it up. The water will slowly soak out of the drainage holes into the soil (it might sound obvious, but make sure you use a pot with drainage holes) around the roots and efficiently hydrate the plant.

Delivering the water to the root zone is always better than watering from above. Wetting the foliage can lead to fungal diseases on pumpkins. This includes powdery mildew – a common issue that causes pumpkin leaves to turn white as fungal growth coats the top surface of foliage.

This pumpkin watering technique also works superbly for growing squash plants, which have shallow roots, too. That includes growing butternut squash, delicata squash, acorn squash, and other winter and summer squash.

As the season progresses, watering pumpkins can potentially get confusing, especially if you have a packed patch with lots of plants. A mass of vines and foliage can be disorientating. You know you need to water or fertilize the center of the plant, but how can you find it among all those sprawling vines?

That is where the simple task of marking each plant with a cane comes in super-handy. You can find the center of the plant easily, even when it grows lots of vines and foliage, and you know the perfect place to water and fertilize pumpkins. A simple marker also allows you to use a soil moisture meter in the perfect place to check the water levels in the root zone.

Just use a bamboo pole, wooden markers, metal plant stakes, or more decorative markers, depending on your preferred aesthetic or what you have to hand. Personally, I have only used a basic bamboo pole (you can get a range of bamboo stakes at Lowe's), but these decorative pumpkin stakes at Wayfair look attractive and can add a more personal touch to your plot.

To retain moisture in the soil and regulate soil temperature, mulching around pumpkins and squash plants after you put them into the kitchen garden is beneficial. Use organic types of mulch, such as compost, leaf mold, or bark chippings (such as this bag of pine bark mulch at Lowe's), and spread them in a layer 2-4 inches thick around the plant.

What to Shop

Growing pumpkins can be simple, but there are always challenges along the road. You can spend time watering pumpkins in hot weather, feeding plants, and weeding the crop, but there remains the risk of pests that may trouble the crop.

A great form of natural pest control I recommend is companion planting. You can use the likes of chamomile, marjoram, catnip, and nasturtiums for companion planting with pumpkins. These flowers and herbs repel many typical pumpkin pests, as well as attract beneficial insects to naturally deal with them.

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My blue hydrangea is the jewel in the crown of my patio planting. Its bright flowers always capture the attention of my guests and give me a hit of dopamine whenever I go out there. But, it's well-known that it can be tricky to keep a hydrangea blue, which is why I've adopted some specific tricks to make it easier.

Growing hydrangeas successfully is already fairly particular, let alone trying to keep them blue. The color of hydrangeas is all to do with soil pH level, with acidic soil bringing out the natural blue pigment. As soon as soil pH level becomes more neutral and alkaline, these hydrangeas can turn pink. By planting mine in the right place, using an acidic soil, and applying a special amendment, I manage to keep mine a vivid blue quite easily.

So, if you've also just added one of these beauties to your yard, keep reading. Below, I share my top three tips to maintain that unique sky-blue hue all summer long.

1. Grow It In a Container

The soil type in my yard is a bit of a mixed bag, with some areas being sandy and some patches of clay. So, when it came to planting up my blue hydrangea, I wasn't going to take any risks and opted for container growing.

Adding a blue hydrangea to your container garden makes it much easier to control its growing environment. You know exactly the type of soil in the pot and can easily amend it to maintain acidity.

The thing to note about growing hydrangeas in pots is the size, with the most common types of blue hydrangea (bigleaf and mountain varieties, like this 'Nikko Blue' hydrangea from Fast Growing Trees) typically reaching an ultimate size of 2-3ft in height and spread in pots.

This Endless Summer Blue Hydrangea from Amazon is another good choice for pots.

Hydrangeas also love consistent moisture (you may spot your hydrangea wilting otherwise), but hate soggy conditions. That's why a pot with a drainage hole is a must.

This large ceramic planter from Wayfair is a great choice, with the navy color complementing the blue flowers beautifully.

2. Use Acidic Compost

Soil is the most important thing when it comes to trying to keep a hydrangea blue. More specifically, the pH level of soil.

As mentioned, it's acidic soil that brings out the blue pigment in these hydrangeas. Pink hydrangeas, on the other hand, prefer an alkaline growing medium.

Somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 is the sweet spot for blue hydrangeas. I needed, you can test the pH of your soil with this Amazon soil test kit to find out more about pH levels and nutrients.

Instead of using any potting mix for my blue hydrangea, I chose an acidic potting soil (like this acid-loving plant soil from Lowe's). This is a blend specially made for acid-loving plants, including azaleas and blue hydrangeas.

The acidic nature of this soil maintains a growing environment for the chemical reaction to happen that brings out the blue blooms.

Of course, you can also use methods to make your soil more acidic, though this is a more laborious option.

This 4-in-1 soil meter from Amazon can give you an instant reading of your soil's pH, moisture, temperature, and sunlight level, so you can monitor it.

3. Apply Aluminium Sulfate

Over time, soil pH can change due to weathering and other environmental factors. That's why I use a aluminium sulfate soil amendment to top up acidity for my blue hydrangea.

Aluminium sulfate (like this from Amazon) is the secret ingredient to maintaining blue blooms because it helps lower the pH of the soil.

When the hydrangea's roots take up the aluminium, it binds with pigments called anthocyanins in the flower tissues, resulting in the blue coloration.

You should apply it in early spring, just before new growth emerges.

Mix it with water, as per the manufacturer's instructions on the product you have. Apply it around the drip line of the shrub, avoiding the foliage which can cause leaf scorch. You should then water thoroughly to help the plant soak it up and stop its roots burning.

Reapply once a month during the growing season until you achieve the desired shade of blue.

You can also use a hydrangea fertilizer (like this from Amazon) for a boost of essential plant nutrients in spring, though you should wait a couple of weeks after the aluminium sulfate is applied to ensure the root aren't overloaded.

Shop Hydrangea Essentials

FAQs

Can All Hydrangeas Turn Blue?

No, not all types of hydrangeas can turn blue. Most commonly, it's bigleaf and mountain hydrangeas that react to chemical changes in soil for the blue pigment to appear. White varieties tend to stay white, however, while pink blooms can turn blue with more acidic soil.

Hydrangeas can seem daunting at first, as there are plenty of hydrangea mistakes to avoid. But, there are also some hydrangea myths you should read up on to ensure you don't overcomplicate care.

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This weekend I spotted every gardener's worst nightmare in my yard: powdery mildew on my asters. This fungal disease can be extremely hard to get rid of, so I've been desperately searching for a solution to save my plants. That's when I stumbled across a retro gardening hack: DIY milk spray.

It's one of the oldest tricks of in the book for getting rid of powdery mildew, essentially acting as an organic fungicide. All you have to do is mix milk with water to create a spray that forms a protective barrier on leaf surfaces. This inhibits the growth of powdery mildew, acting as a preventative measure to apply at the first signs of disease.

However, as with all gardening hacks, there are some words of warning that come with using milk spray to stop powdery mildew. Applying it incorrectly or in the wrong circumstance can make it ineffective and even harmful to plant health. Here, I explain how it works, how to use it correctly, as well as the limitations.

How Does It Work?

Milk spray is a DIY organic fungicide that helps prevent issues like powdery mildew.

Essentially, the proteins, salts, and fats found in milk are thought to disrupt fungal growth.

More specifically, the protein in milk has antimicrobial compounds that are activated in sunlight, damaging fungal spores. Meanwhile, the microorganisms found in milk are beneficial on the surface of leaves, and the residue makes it harder for fungal diseases to develop in general.

In particular, it's a solution to try on kitchen garden crops like cucurbits and tomatoes, as well as ornamental plants susceptible to fungal diseases, like asters.

But, it isn't just a case of spraying some milk over your plants. Here's how to use this hack correctly, without causing harm to your garden.

How to Use Milk Spray on Plants

The recommended mixture for a milk spray to stop powdery mildew is one part milk, nine parts water, and optionally a few drops of soap to help it adhere to the leaves.

You can put this in a spray bottle (like these glass spray bottles from Amazon) to apply, spraying on both sides of leaves.

It's best used as a preventative measure on vulnerable plants or when infections are still mild to stop them worsening.

You should apply it very lightly in the morning, so the solution can interact with the daylight to be effective. You should then reapply weekly for optimal results, or after heavy rainfall.

But, there are some limitations of this hack to be aware of.

Limitations of This Hack

As mentioned, the most effective way to use milk spray is by using it as a preventative measure, applying it as soon as first signs of powdery mildew are spotted.

In cases of extreme powdery mildew, it's unlikely to get rid of the problem entirely, as this disease spreads rapidly.

The best thing to do with severely impacted plants is remove them and dispose of them, to stop powdery mildew spreading to the rest of your garden.

When doing this, make sure to use sterilized pruning shears (like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon). You should also clean your tools afterwards to prevent the spread of disease.

The other thing to be aware of is excessive use may leave milk residue on plants with an unpleasant odor. It could even attract pests like rodents to your yard.

For this reason, you should use milk spray to stop powdery mildew with caution. Apply lightly on mild cases and make sure to reapply for a few weeks for the most effective results.

What to Shop

It's worth giving the milk spray hack a go if you haven't had any luck with other methods to get rid of powdery mildew.

However, in the most severe cases it's best to remove plants entirely to stop the disease spreading. Our guide to handling powdery mildew on lawns has more information on keeping your grass disease-free.

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Raspberries are super-popular, easy to grow, and come in different varieties that can extend the harvesting season. Whether you grow summer or fall-fruiting raspberries, June is a pivotal month for the plants.

Early varieties of summer-fruiting raspberries are ready for picking towards the second half of the month. On the other hand, later varieties are still actively growing and developing fruits. Both need nurturing to produce the best crop, and a gardener may easily find themselves watering, feeding, and weeding this month to keep the canes healthy and productive.

I am a huge fan of growing raspberries, and have cultivated a wide variety over the years, from a single dwarf cultivar in a pot to rows of canes in a productive walled garden. I find that a few key early summer tasks can help you protect your harvest. Here’s a guide to what to do with raspberry plants in June.

Harvest Early Varieties

Summer-fruiting raspberries start ripening in June, depending on the variety. Any gardener fortunate enough to have these types can enjoy harvesting regularly later in the month.

If you pick the berries every few days as they ripen, you should be able to keep harvesting for 3-4 weeks.

A ripe raspberry has a deep color – you can get yellow, purple, and black raspberries as well as the typical red ones – and should come off the cane easily with a gentle tug, though the core will remain.

Don’t make the harvesting mistake of yanking the berries. If they don’t detach easily, they are simply not ripe – come back and try again in a few days.

Water Canes in Dry Spells

As raspberry canes develop fruits, keeping them well-watered is crucial. True, it is important to provide them with moisture throughout the growing season for strong growth, but the period from flowering to picking fruits is a pivotal time. Here, watering can make a big difference between a good and a bad harvest.

Raspberry canes have shallow roots, which puts them at more risk when the soil dries out. A lack of moisture while fruits are forming and developing leads to smaller or brittle berries, rather than the plump, juicy raspberries you aspire for.

To avert this crisis, water plants at least every week during dry periods. Ideally, raspberries want 1-2 inches of water per week, either from natural rainfall or thanks to a gardener watering them.

The best way to water plants is to direct the water towards the base of the plants, so it soaks into the soil. Overhead watering risks fungal diseases, plus there is little guarantee of how much water reaches the soil through the dense canopy of foliage.

Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are efficient ways to water raspberries and ensure all the water reaches the roots, where it is needed most. You can get a soaker hose from Amazon made of 100% recycled vinyl to gently seep water at the soil level to water raspberries efficiently.

Feed Plants to Encourage Strong Fruiting

The core time to fertilize raspberries is in early spring, but there is a window to feed plants again in June. Fertilizing at this point in the season with a high-potassium feed, such as a tomato feed, provides the canes with a fast-acting dose of essential nutrients that encourages fruiting.

You can feed raspberries in the ground with tomato fertilizer, though often they can give you a good crop without it. It does become more vital if you grow raspberries in pots, as these plants always need a monthly feed with a high-potassium fertilizer to thrive.

A spring fertilizer for raspberries should be balanced and contain an equal mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. In June, though, the right feed should be high in potassium, as this nutrient encourages flowering and fruiting.

Tomato feed is the best option, like this tomato booster fertilizer at Amazon, but there are natural alternatives, such as making a homemade comfrey fertilizer or using seaweed feeds.

Weed Around the Canes

Early summer is notoriously a time when weeds are rampant. Warm, moist soils and rising summer temperatures combine to create the ideal environment for weeds to germinate and grow quickly.

Every weed steals water and nutrients away from other plants. As every drop of moisture and morsel of nutrients is essential to get a raspberry plant to fruit, taking time to get rid of weeds growing around the patch is time well spent.

Small weeds can be quickly removed by running a garden hoe around the plants, but take care not to accidentally damage the raspberries' roots, which sit in the upper zone of the soil. I like to use a stirrup (or scuffle) hoe as it is quick and easy, and you can get a steel scuffle hoe at Ace Hardware for your yard.

Hoeing is an efficient way to weed a garden quickly, though larger, more established weeds will need to be removed roots-and-all with a fork or garden weeding tool.

Support Raspberry Canes as Needed

Raspberries need support as they grow. As most varieties are capable of growing 6-8 feet tall (though you can get dwarf raspberries, such as the Bushel and Berry Raspberry Shortcake Bush at Fast Growing Trees), you can use poles, fences, trellises, or wires to keep them upright.

Most canes should be trained in place or tied in by now. However, in early summer, some may flop under the weight of fruits or be at risk of snapping in high winds. Keep a close eye on the canes and tie any stragglers into place with soft ties, such as these reusable velcro plant ties at Walmart.

If any shoots appear outside of the designated space or row, these suckers can be removed to keep the patch neat and productive.

Do Not Prune Unless for a Specific Reason

June is unlikely to be the time to prune raspberries for most gardeners, unless you have a really early crop. Summer-fruiting raspberries are ready as early as June, and you can prune the canes once they have finished fruiting, as these types fruit on one-year-old wood.

It is, however, unlikely that canes will start and finish cropping by the end of June, but if this does happen, it is one of only two scenarios in which you should head out with the pruning tools. The other is when any canes are dead, diseased, or damaged, and you remove them to keep the rest of the patch healthy.

As for when to prune fall-bearing raspberries, the answer is in late winter. These types produce fruit on the current season's wood and just need cutting to the ground once a year.

What to Shop

Summer is a time to nurture and examine your raspberry plants, but not to do anything rash. If you want to transplant raspberry canes to start a new patch, or move an existing one if the plants are not in the ideal position, make a note in summer and wait until fall.

When the plants go dormant in the fall makes a great time to lift and plant raspberries, or you can wait until spring.

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Lavender is often seen as one of the easiest plants to grow, but June is a surprisingly important month for keeping it healthy, compact, and full of flowers through summer. As the weather warms up and growth becomes more vigorous, a few simple maintenance jobs can make a big difference to how the plant performs later in the season.

Whether you grow lavender in pots, cottage garden borders, or use it as part of your landscaping with lavender, early summer is the perfect time to refresh your care routine. Giving plants a little extra attention now can encourage stronger stems, healthier foliage, and longer-lasting blooms, while also helping prevent the woody, leggy growth older plants often develop. If you want to grow lavender successfully year after year, these small June tasks really do pay off.

1. Give Lavender as Much Sun as Possible

If you want to grow lavender successfully, giving it as much sun as possible is one of the most important things you can do. Lavender thrives in full sun, and June’s longer, brighter days create ideal growing conditions for both flowers and healthy new growth.

If plants are growing in too much shade, flowering is often weaker, and stems can become thin, floppy, or stretched. Most lavender varieties need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day to perform well. For lavender growing in containers, it’s worth moving pots into the brightest part of the garden, balcony, or patio at this time of year.

The extra sunlight doesn’t just encourage more blooms either – it usually improves the fragrance too, which is one of the main reasons so many gardeners love growing lavender in the first place.

2. Water Carefully During Hot Weather

One of the most common questions gardeners ask is: ‘Is lavender drought-tolerant?’ The answer is yes – once established, lavender copes very well with dry conditions. However, newly planted lavender and container-grown plants can still dry out surprisingly quickly during hot June weather.

When you water lavender, the key is to do it deeply but infrequently rather than little and often. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings, as lavender dislikes constantly damp compost. Overly wet conditions can quickly lead to weak roots, yellowing foliage, or even rot, particularly in pots without good drainage.

Container-grown lavender usually needs a bit more attention than plants growing in borders, especially during prolonged warm spells or windy weather.

3. Trim Lightly to Prevent Woody Growth

One of the biggest mistakes gardeners make with lavender is waiting too long to prune lavender plants properly. By the time plants become heavily overgrown and woody, it can be much harder to restore their shape.

In June, a light trim around the edges of the plant helps keep growth compact and encourages a fuller, bushier shape through summer. It’s also a good opportunity to remove faded flower stems along with any dead or damaged growth. I use the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon in my own garden, as they make it much easier to shape lavender neatly without tearing softer stems.

What you want to avoid is cutting deeply into old woody growth, as lavender often struggles to regrow from older wood. Regular, gentle trimming throughout the growing season is usually far more effective than attempting one hard prune later on.

4. Feed Sparingly

Lavender usually performs far better in poor, free-draining soil than it does in rich, heavily fertilized ground. In fact, too much feeding often encourages lots of soft leafy growth at the expense of flowers, which is why overfed lavender can end up looking leggy rather than compact and full.

If you do decide to fertilize lavender, keep it light. A small application of balanced fertilizer in June is usually enough to support healthy summer growth if the plant is looking pale or struggling to produce fresh foliage. Otherwise, established lavender generally needs very little additional feeding once settled in the garden.

Good drainage is often much more important than extra nutrients. Keeping soil light and free draining will usually do more for healthy lavender growth than regular fertilizing ever will.

5. Improve Drainage if Needed

Good drainage is essential for healthy lavender plants, particularly during wetter spells in early summer. Lavender naturally prefers dry, free-draining conditions, so soil that stays damp for too long can quickly lead to weak growth and unhappy plants. If your garden soil tends to hold onto water, try mixing grit or horticultural sand around the base of the plant to improve drainage.

For container-grown lavender, always make sure pots have proper drainage holes and avoid leaving them sitting in trays full of water after watering. Many common lavender problems, including yellowing foliage and poor growth, are often caused by overly wet roots rather than underwatering.

If you’re growing lavender in pots, something like the Self-Watering Planter Pot from Target can help regulate moisture more evenly while still allowing excess water to drain away properly.

6. Harvest Flowers Regularly

June is also the perfect time to harvest lavender stems, especially as the first flowers begin opening. Picking lavender regularly not only gives you beautifully fragrant stems for the house, but it can also encourage more blooms to appear through the rest of summer. Regular harvesting helps plants stay tidier and more compact, too, which can prevent lavender from becoming too leggy later in the season.

If you want to harvest lavender for drying, try cutting stems just as the flowers begin to open, when the fragrance is usually at its strongest. Fresh lavender can be displayed indoors, dried for arrangements, or used in homemade sachets and potpourri.

Shop Lavender in June Essentials

Lavender is one of the easiest plants to grow once you get the conditions right, but a little attention in June can make a huge difference later in the season. Plenty of sun, careful watering, light pruning, and good drainage all help plants stay healthy, compact, and full of flowers through summer.

Stay on top of these simple jobs now, and you’ll usually be rewarded with stronger growth, fragrance, and longer-lasting blooms, along with less woody, leggy growth as the plant matures. Even older lavender plants often respond well to a refreshed early summer care routine.

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In the height of summer, balconies and corners of small yards can quickly become a heat-trap – especially in dense, urban environments, such as New York, Los Angeles, Miami and Dallas. Built from concrete, stone, tiles and metal, these are materials that absorb heat during the day and continue to radiate it long after the sun goes down.

As well as being uncomfortable to sit in, designers say this effect can place stress on container plants, drying out soil quickly and creating growing conditions that are difficult to manage without constant watering and care.

Just like thermal garden designs, the good news is there are simple, effective ways to cool your balcony plants, and reduce heat stress without it becoming a full-time pursuit. Here, we detail expert ways to keep your plants cooler when the temperatures soar.

Balcony Microclimates

'The biggest mistake I see is treating a balcony or rooftop terrace like a ground-level garden,' says Kat Aul Cervoni, landscape designer and founder of Staghorn NYC Landscape Design. 'These spaces are often significantly hotter, windier, and drier than people realize because they're surrounded by heat-reflecting surfaces like concrete, brick, glass, and metal.'

This can have a major impact on both plant choice and the watering needs which can leave gardeners feeling overwhelmed once temperatures rise.

'Addressing your mini microclimate can help make plant selection easier,' Kat adds.

As well as strategic planting, designers say there are a number of clever tricks and techniques used in balcony garden ideas that can help keep the space cooler during the hottest months.

Group Pots to Slow Moisture Loss

One simple trick that can help plants cope with extreme heat is to move containers closer together. While it won't lower temperatures dramatically, grouping pots creates a small microclimate that can reduce heat stress and slow moisture loss.

When plants are clustered together, their leaves naturally shade one another and help protect pot surfaces from direct sun. This is particularly beneficial for container plants, where compost and roots can become much hotter than the surrounding air.

'It's a simple trick that benefits both the plants and the people enjoying the garden,' says Kat. 'It gives a beautiful layered planting look that I love having in my rooftop designs when space allows.'

Plants also release water vapour through transpiration, which slightly increases humidity around the group and can have a modest cooling effect. As an added benefit, a cluster of pots is less exposed to drying winds, helping compost stay moist for longer.

For the greatest benefit, arrange larger plants around the outside of the group and position smaller or more delicate specimens in the centre, where they will be sheltered from the harshest sun.

Use Dense Planting To Cool The Space Naturally

One design trick that doesn't cost much but can make a noticeable difference is to actually increase your planting.

Plants can naturally increase shade, which also helps to cool your space more naturally.

According to landscape contractor Coleman Cosby, think more, not less when it comes to balcony plants.

'Plants are often the least expensive elements in a landscape,' he says. 'They can help add shade and humidity, as well as a lush visual cue that can have a psychologically cooling effect.'

Because balconies are typically exposed, sun-facing spaces, carefully chosen planting can also act as a natural buffer against direct sunlight. And while, arguably, there might be less room to add greenery than a traditional garden, outdoor garden expert Loren Taylor says it is possible to create a cooler, more comfortable balcony.

'A balcony without greenery is like a car without air conditioning; it's best when you create a combination of plants and materials to cool down the balcony,' he says.

'A pergola with climbing plants can reduce direct sun exposure by up to 60 per cent,' adds Coleman.

Loren recommends choosing tall containers with dense plants such as bamboo, oleander or even homegrown tomatoes to create the biggest impact. These create a natural screen from the sun, while adding moisture to the air.

Multiplex Bamboo is available from Fast-Growing Trees.

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Keep Containers Cool With Automated Irrigation

Even the best planting and shade ideas can only do so much if containers are regularly drying out. Because balconies are typically hotter, windier and more exposed than ground-level gardens, pots can lose moisture more quickly during the height of summer.

'Container gardens dry out so so so much faster than in-ground gardens, and during a heat wave it's surprisingly easy to lose plants after just a day of missed watering,' says Kat.

For this reason, she recommends taking a proactive approach to watering plants.

'There are some very simple faucet-connected drip systems on a timer that deliver water directly to the root zone while minimizing waste,' she says. 'From a materials standpoint, these are inexpensive and relatively easy to purchase and implement.'

This Quick-Connect Drip Irrigation System Kit from Amazon is designed for container gardens, delivering water directly to plant roots.

In the same way as you would keep houseplants cool in a heatwave, you can also mist your balcony plants early in the morning or on an evening, to help increase humidity.

This large garden mister from Amazon is battery powered, and would make light work of this job.

You can buy self-watering plant potters, such as this one from Wayfair.

Mulch as a Cooling Material

Beyond irrigation, Kat also recommends applying a one-to-two-inch layer of mulch over container soil.

'It can significantly reduce moisture loss and help moderate soil temperatures during periods of extreme heat' she says.

By covering the surface of the soil or compost with organic materials such as compost, bark chips, leaf mould, or straw, you can help to insulate the root zone from extreme temperatures and significantly reduce moisture loss through evaporation.

As an added-bonus, mulch (such as this Back to the Roots mulch, from Amazon) gives planters a more finished appearance, while helping to prevent soil from splashing out during watering or heavy rain.

By combining shade, strategic planting and consistent watering, it's possible to cool a balcony, even in the hottest climates.

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If you live in an area that has a warm spring, June can seem as though you are halfway through summer already and our garden plants can feel the same. Perennial plants can flower early, mid, or late in the season, and those that bloom earlier in the year can look way past their best by the time June is over.

Deadheading is an important part of plant care and is key to keeping plants looking tidy and encouraging new buds and blooms, extending their season. Over my career as a professional gardener, I have spent many hours cutting back and pruning and share my top seven perennials to cut back in June for a glorious second flush of blooms.

The main sowing time of the year is generally during the spring. However, for a continuous supply of flowers and produce, you can stagger your seed sowing or discover what you can plant in June.

Hardy Geranium

Providing months and months of color, interest, and ground cover, hardy geraniums, or cranesbills, are valuable garden plants and stalwarts of herbaceous borders.

Perfect for the front of a border or for planting in odd numbers in a cottage garden, hardy geraniums can flower from early spring right through to the fall.

However, by the end of a hot June, some early-blooming cranesbill varieties can have finished their first flush of flowers and be looking rather dishevelled, making them an ideal perennial to cut back.

To rejuvenate, simply cut them back to around 2-3 inches above the ground and water well. To help encourage the new growth and flowers, you can apply a seaweed fertilizer like Bloom City seaweed and kelp fertilizer available from Amazon.

Catmint

Low maintenance and heat-tolerant, Nepeta, or catmint as it is also called, makes a winning perennial for most gardens. Furthermore, as a pollinator-friendly perennial, you will be sure to entice lots of beneficial insects.

Producing a first flush of its lavender-blue flowers in late spring, it can soon look finished and leggy by early summer. In response, cut it back by around one-third and watch it produce new growth and subsequent flowers later on in the summer.

After many years of cutting back plants by hand, I have found that a decent pair of secateurs can make all the difference. Made in Japan, you can purchase Okatsune 103 Bypass Pruners from Amazon.

Lady's Mantle

A must-have perennial for your garden, Lady’s mantle, or Alchemilla mollis, is a widely grown and tough plant. Praised for its attractive fan-like foliage and lime-yellow flowers, its leaves collect raindrops and display them like jewels.

However, it is known to self-seed vigorously and for this reason, it is considered an invasive perennial in the Pacific Northwest. If you are unsure whether it is a restricted plant in your area, your local government office can advise.

Flowering from May to June, you can remove the spent blooms as soon as they fade to help prevent self-seeding. If the foliage is also looking past its best, you can cut the leaves back as well, following which lush new growth will appear.

Considered hardy in zones 3 and above, you can purchase Lady’s Mantle ‘Thriller’ from Nature Hills.

Coneflower

Echinacea, or coneflowers as they are commonly known, are American native plants adored for their propensity to attract butterflies and as a cut flower.

Available in a wide array of colors and sizes, coneflower varieties are for every backyard and can even be grown in pots. However, to prolong the flowering season, you can ‘Chelsea chop’ coneflowers, by cutting 20-30 % of the stems back by around one-third.

Along with protecting your hands from potential cuts and insect bites, gardening gloves also provide a barrier against possibly irritating plant material and other green waste.

With a non-slip grip for holding tools securely, waterproof gardening gloves are available to purchase from Walmart.

Balkan Clary

Also known as woodland sage or Salvia nemorosa, Balkan clary is one of my favorite Salvia varieties to grow.

Producing violet-blue spikes of color from early summer onwards, it thrives when grown in full sun and on a free-draining soil. Considered hardy in USDA zone 4 and above, Balkan Clary is known to be a magnet for pollinators, including hummingbirds.

Turning brown as they fade, cutting back the spent flower spikes will make way for new growth and more blooms later in the summer. If you have a lot of deadheading or cutting back of soft growth to do, you may find that a pair of gardening snips is more comfortable than pruning shears.

Designed for professionals, Felco F322 Pruning Snips are available to purchase from Amazon.

Columbine

Another cottage garden favorite is Granny's bonnet or Aquilegia as it is known botanically. An elegant and whimsical perennial, it is available in a wide range of colors, from calming pastels to vibrant hues.

Cold hardy in zone 3 and above, it is a tough perennial with a tendency to self-seed. Furthermore, being resistant to both rabbits and deer makes it a great rural choice.

Flowering in late spring to early summer, if you deadhead the spent blooms and tatty foliage, new growth will take its place and, in some circumstances, produce new flowers as well.

Producing purple and white intricate blooms Aquilegia vulgaris 'Winky Purple & White' is available to purchase from Nature Hills.

Foxglove

Available as biennials and perennials, foxgloves (Digitalis) are perfect for an informal or wild planting scheme. Producing tall, striking spires of tubular flowers, and adored by bees, foxgloves are ideal for adding vertical impact to a border or wild area.

Known to be a prolific self-seeder, you may want to deadhead them after flowering to prevent them from colonizing an area. However, cutting back the spent stems to the base of the plant will also encourage new growth and often new spires, albeit shorter than the first flush.

Because it is a poisonous plant, gloves should be worn when handling any part of the plant to prevent accidental ingestion or skin irritation.

Producing multiple flowering spikes of soft pink, Lucas Pink Foxglove is available to purchase from Nature Hills.

June is a busy time for most gardeners, especially for anyone with a vegetable patch. Along with weeding, watering, and harvesting, you must also consider more sowing if you hope to have an ongoing supply of produce to pick in the fall.

To help you decide what to plant, have a look at our tips and advice on vegetables to sow in June for a beautiful supply later in the year.

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Having emerged from its winter dormancy; often existing as little more than a bunch of weather beaten stems, hydrangeas have now dramatically burst back into life and are sporting a host of vibrant, crinkled leaves and promising buds.

Thriving in US Hardiness zones 3 to 9, there are a wide range of varieties and flower types to choose from.

Knowing how to grow hydrangeas and discovering exactly what your plant needs in June can prove make or break, not just for a glorious floral summer display but also for successive seasons. Here's a guide to what they need this month.

Banish Deep Shade And Let The Sunlight In

With garden trees and shrubs now in full leaf, June is the ideal time to check that your hydrangeas are getting the dose of sunshine they need. One of the best flowering shrubs, most hydrangeas are happy in partial shade, but too much dense shade for long periods can reduce the number of blooms produced.

'Ideal light conditions for hydrangeas are several hours of direct morning sun with afternoon shade, or dappled shade that allows plenty of bright indirect light,' says gardening expert Janet Loughrey.

If surrounding foliage is starving a hydrangea of sunlight, consider thinning out some branches to open up the canopy. Cut back branches of up to 1 inch diameter with pair of Bypass pruning shears, such as these from Amazon.

For overhead branches that are just out of reach, use a telescopic pole pruner from Amazon, but be sure to don safety glasses, available from Walmart and long, thick gloves, also from Walmart first.

Of course, if your hydrangea is container grown, you can simply move it to sunnier position.

Janet also suggests that, 'Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) are more shade-tolerant than other types.' You can find oakleaf hydrangeas at Fast Growing Trees.

Watch Out For Scorched Blooms

While deep shade can reduce the number of hydrangea blooms, placing these plants in strong, direct sunlight can also present problems. Regular exposure to the sun this month, can scorch the delicate petals, turning them prematurely brown, whilst also stressing the plant long term.

Keep a close eye on the position of your plant and if you notice petals or leaves beginning to crisp up and brown, take action.

If your hydrangea is pot grown, you can simply relocate it to a shadier spot. A position that receives gentle morning sun and then dappled shade during the afternoon, is ideal. A pot caddy with sturdy castors can prove handy for moving larger, heavier pots. This Bosmere 14 inch caddy, from Lowe's, can support up to 500lbs.

For mature, in-ground plants, providing partial shade is one option. Growing citrus trees in pots and placing them alongside a hydrangea to cast shade and diffuse the sun is an effective option.

Other candidates include fig and olive trees. Another solution is temporarily erect a decorative screen, before carefully relocating the plant during the fall or early spring.

If you are looking to choose a hydrangea to grow in a sunny spot, opt for panicle or smooth types as these can handle 5 to 6hrs of strong sun. Find these live plants including Hydrangea quercifolia 'Ruby Slippers' at Nature Hills.

Provide Shelter In Exposed Spots

With their large, blowsy blooms, hydrangeas are real showstoppers, but they can suffer in exposed, breezy sites. From June to August, plants in full bloom are especially vulnerable as strong winds can easily catch hold of the generous and densely petalled flowerheads, breaking stems and damaging future buds.

'Wind exposure is often overlooked. Bigleaf, Hydrangea macrophylla, and smooth hydrangeas have large flower heads that act like sails in strong wind, ' says plant expert Justin Farrell. 'Plant them where they get some shelter from prevailing winds, near a fence, wall, or taller evergreen screen.'

While this issue can be easily solved with container grown hydrangeas, established in-ground plants pose more of a challenge. Erecting a garden structure such as an trellis or fretwork panel on the exposed side of the plant, will help disperse any wind.

Staking the plant's main stems can also help. Choose strong timber or metal stakes and sink them firmly into the ground beside each stem, before tying them on with soft, flexi ties, such as these from Walmart. We also found a handy tree steel stake kit at Walmart.

Continue To Water Hydrangeas Deeply

June is a key period of growth for Hydrangeas, so whether they are planted in the ground or a pot, regular watering is key.

'When natural rainfall is less than 1 inch a week, it's time to think about providing supplemental irrigation, especially for newly planted trees and shrubs, and other long-lived plants such as perennials,' says Richard Hawke, Director of Ornamental Plant Research at Chicago Botanic Garden. 'Investing time and resources on the needs of these plants now will provide future dividends on your landscape investments.'

Effective watering is crucial to strong plant growth, with experts recommending treating established plants to the occasional drenching rather than a daily shower.

'The golden rule for most plants is to water root zones deeply but infrequently,' continues Richard. 'Too little water provided too often can result in shallow root systems that leave plants less able to tolerate drought.'

Soaker hose and drip irrigation systems are favored by horticultural professionals, and can be simply retrofitted. Widely available they include the 25ft Expert Soaker Garden Hose from Walmart.

By following these monthly tips you can keep your hydrangea thriving. Why not add to your plant collection by getting to know the best hydrangea varieties and learning about landscaping with hydrangeas.

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June is primarily a month when blueberry bushes are developing fruit. In some climates, the season may have arrived, but for most gardeners, it is a time to nurture plants to guarantee fresh pickings of tasty, highly nutritious berries come midsummer.

Watering and protecting the crop are top priorities, along with feeding in certain circumstances, such as when you are growing blueberries in containers. As the crop is steadily growing, giving it the water and nutrients it needs guarantees good-sized berries, and protection stops birds from robbing your berries before you get to enjoy them.

If your fruits are ready, pick away. If yours aren’t, the season is tantalizingly close, and what you do this month can make a big difference. I always keep a close eye on my blueberries in early summer, as I don’t want to lose any of those precious berries currently on the bush. When it comes to what to do with a blueberry bush in June, I always recommend these tasks.

What to Do With a Blueberry Bush in June: 4 Key Tasks

Before getting on to those all-important steps that will help a bush develop its burgeoning fruits, a mention does need to be made for those lucky homeowners for whom blueberry season has started.

June is the start of the peak harvesting season for blueberries in the US. The season in North America runs from June to August, but the exact timing depends on location, weather, and the type of bushes. Growers in the south-east, south-west, and parts of the Mid-Atlantic usually expect to be picking in June.

If your fruits are ready, enjoy harvesting blueberries in June. As blueberries ripen gradually across any bush, pick fruits that are blue throughout every few days to get them at their peak.

A ripe blueberry should easily detach if you roll the berry between your thumb and index fingers. Or you can get a berry picker to run over the bushes to separate the fruits from the bush, like this berry picker with a metallic comb at Amazon.

1. Protect Fruits From Birds

For many growers, blueberry bushes will be busy developing those tasty fruits in early summer. You want to get a blueberry bush to fruit prolifically and develop a plethora of berries. What you don’t want is to lose all those fruits to unwanted visitors, in this case, birds.

Birds are attracted to developing fruits for essential calories and water. To stop them from ransacking your blueberry bush this month, the best tactic is to protect soft fruit in your yard with garden netting.

A mesh netting with holes no larger than five mm by five mm should suffice to protect soft fruits in your yard, such as this garden netting at Amazon.

It is best to place the netting over a frame. Don’t just sit it on the bushes, as the birds can just sit on the netting and peck the berries through the netting if it is touching the plants.

Any netting must be secured to the ground, with weights or landscape staples, available at Amazon, too. This prevents birds from getting in, only to get trapped under the netting.

Or you can get fruit cages to put over blueberry bushes, like this six-foot by eight-foot by four-foot plant cage at Wayfair.

2. Water Plants in Dry Spells

Blueberries need consistent moisture as they develop and ripen. As the plants have shallow roots, regular watering can often be required in early summer, especially during dry periods.

Blueberry bushes ideally want 1-2 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or additional watering, but this need increases when they are developing fruits. A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, offers a quick, simple way to see if your plants need watering.

Deep watering is always recommended (so the moisture soaks into the soil), and it is ideally done in the morning. A shorter sprinkling of moisture could see most of the water lost due to evaporation before the bushes' roots can take it in. If this happens and the top layer of the soil dries out in the summer, bushes often react to heat stress by dropping fruits.

Blueberries prefer acidic conditions, so they want to be kept well-watered with rainwater, which has a lower pH than tap water.

Their desire for rainwater makes rainwater harvesting important when you grow blueberries and other acid-loving plants, so consider adding a rain barrel to your yard to collect this precious, natural resource.

3. Keep Your Eyes Peeled for Pests

Early summer can be a prime time for blueberry pests that may affect your yield. It is advisable to check the plants regularly for signs of damage or infestation. Check the leaves, shoots, flowers, and fruits for holes, wilting, or other insect activity.

Pests, including aphids, flea beetles, spider mites, cutworms, Japanese beetles, blueberry maggots, and spotted-wing drosophila, can affect bushes in early summer.

Smaller pests, such as aphids and spider mites, can be combatted by spraying them off with a jet of water or using insecticidal soaps (you can get ready-to-use insecticidal soap at Walmart, though these sprays can also affect beneficial insects, so they need to be used with caution).

It may seem unpleasant, but small infestations of larger pests can be hand-picked. For a less squeamish way to prevent pests, use fine insect-proof netting with holes under 1mm (such as this insect netting at Amazon) to stop all manner of blueberry pests, or use companion planting to deter pests and encourage natural predators.

If you are after good natural pest control plants to repel both aphids and spider mites, opt for dill or marigolds.

4. Feed Blueberries in Pots

You can grow blueberries in pots, and when you do, they need to be fed much more regularly than plants growing in the ground. It becomes an important task throughout the summer to get the best crop of berries.

Bushes in the ground may need just one feed per year in spring. However, when growing fruit in pots, you need a consistent fertilizing regime. I tended to feed blueberry bushes in containers every few weeks during the growing season.

In June, the bushes need lots of nutrients to develop and ripen fruits. They can all too easily use up all that goodness in the limited soil in the container. To ensure they have the nutrients they need, fertilize blueberries with a liquid ericaceous fertilizer every two or three weeks from April to September.

Use a product like this acid-loving plant fertilizer at Amazon. Simply mix it at the recommended rate in a watering can, and apply when you water plants.

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As mentioned throughout this guide, blueberries prefer acidic soil. It is beneficial to check your soil pH each spring to ensure it remains suitable for the plants. You can get a simple, effective soil test kit from Amazon to get professional lab analysis and results.

If the results show the pH is too high, you can make the soil more acidic by adding sulfur, iron sulfate (get iron sulfate soil conditioner at Walmart), or aluminum sulfate. It may not have the same immediate impact as some of those outlined above, but you can also use spent coffee grounds as a soil amendment.

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As spring fades into summer, peonies put on one of the garden's most spectacular displays. Their sumptuous, often fragrant blooms rise above lush foliage, stopping visitors in their tracks. The showiest doubles resemble frothy desserts, with names to match, including 'Peaches and Cream', 'Raspberry Sundae', and 'Pink Parfait'. It's little wonder so many gardeners choose to grow peonies, whether in cottage gardens, mixed borders, or cutting gardens.

But June marks a turning point. As petals begin to fall and the flowering season draws to a close, many gardeners assume their peonies no longer need attention. In fact, knowing what to do with peonies in June can make all the difference to next year's display, helping plants stay healthy, build energy reserves, and produce even more blooms.

The good news is that peonies require very little fuss. A few simple jobs now will help prevent disease, support strong growth, and set the stage for an even more spectacular show next spring.

1. Deadhead Spent Blooms

One of the most important jobs this month is to deadhead peonies as soon as the flowers begin to fade. Removing spent blooms stops the plant from putting energy into seed production and helps keep borders looking neat and attractive.

Using clean secateurs, such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, available from Amazon, cut each flower stem back to the first strong leaf below the bloom. The sharp bypass blades make clean, precise cuts through soft stems, helping to minimise damage to the plant. Be careful not to remove too much healthy foliage, as the leaves will continue to photosynthesize and store energy for next year's flowers throughout summer.

Not only does deadheading improve the plant's appearance, but it can also help reduce the risk of fungal problems developing on fallen or decaying petals, particularly during warm, humid weather.

2. Leave the Foliage in Place

One of the biggest peony pruning mistakes gardeners make is cutting plants back too early after flowering. While the blooms may be gone, the foliage is still working hard, absorbing sunlight and storing energy in the roots to fuel next year's display.

Healthy leaves are essential for strong flower production the following season, so resist the urge to tidy up too aggressively. Removing foliage in June can weaken the plant and potentially reduce the number of blooms it produces next spring.

Instead, leave the foliage intact throughout summer and only cut herbaceous peonies back in fall, once the leaves have naturally yellowed and begun to die back. Not only will this help your plants build up energy reserves, but the lush green foliage can continue to provide structure and interest in the border for months after flowering has finished.

3. Water During Dry Spells

Established peonies are relatively drought-tolerant, but prolonged dry weather can leave plants stressed and less vigorous. If rainfall is lacking, give them a deep soak every week or two rather than frequent light watering, which encourages shallow roots. Water at the base of the plant wherever possible to keep foliage dry and reduce the risk of disease.

This is especially important in the weeks after flowering, when peonies are storing energy for next year's blooms. In my own garden, I use the Eden 96213 Essential Turbo Oscillating Water Sprinkler from Amazon to give borders and edges a thorough soak during dry spells. Just be sure to keep an eye on any hosepipe or watering restrictions in your area over summer, as these can come into force during periods of prolonged hot, dry weather.

4. Feed if Necessary

Peonies are not heavy feeders, but if you want to fertilize peonies after flowering, a light application of fertiliser can support healthy root development and help plants build up energy for next year's blooms. This is particularly beneficial for peonies growing in poor soils or borders that haven't been improved with organic matter in recent years.

When choosing the best fertilizer for peonies, avoid high-nitrogen products, which encourage lush foliage at the expense of flowers. Instead, opt for a balanced fertiliser or one slightly higher in phosphorus and potassium to support root growth and bud formation.

Good options include Espoma Plant Food from Ace Hardware and Miracle-Gro Shake 'N Feed Flowering Plant Food from Amazon, both of which are formulated to encourage strong flowering plants.

Apply fertilizer sparingly around the root zone and water it in well. A little goes a long way, and overfeeding is far more likely to cause problems than underfeeding.

5. Check Plant Supports

Many peonies, particularly large double-flowered varieties, can flop under the weight of their blooms, especially after heavy rain. If you've been wondering how to support peonies more effectively, June is the perfect time to assess what worked and what didn't during this year's flowering season.

If stems have collapsed or splayed outwards, make a note to support peonies earlier next year. Simple bamboo stakes and garden twine can work well, but for a neater, more polished look, peony rings or plant frames are often the better option.

In my own garden, I use Peony Plant Support Rings and Peony Plant Cages, both of which are sturdy, easy to install, and help keep heavy blooms upright without drawing attention to the support itself. Installing supports before new growth emerges in spring allows stems to grow through naturally, helping plants stay upright throughout the flowering season.

6. Watch for Signs of Disease

June is an ideal time to inspect plants for common peony pests before they have a chance to spread. While peonies are generally low-maintenance, they can occasionally suffer from issues such as blackened stems, leaf spots, grey mould, or infestations of sap-sucking insects such as aphids, particularly during periods of warm, wet weather.

Remove any affected flowers, leaves, or stems promptly and dispose of them in household waste rather than adding them to the compost heap. Good air circulation around plants can also help prevent fungal diseases from taking hold, so avoid overcrowding and keep surrounding vegetation in check.

If aphids become a problem, a ready-to-use treatment such as Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap can help control populations without leaving long-lasting residues on plants. Catching peony pests and problems early will help keep plants healthy through summer and ensure they're in the best possible shape for next year's display.

7. Enjoy the Seed Heads and Foliage

Once the flowers have faded, peonies still have plenty to offer. Many peony varieties develop attractive seed pods that bring shape and structure to borders through summer, while the foliage stays fresh and green for months before taking on beautiful shades of red and bronze in autumn.

It's easy to think the show is over once the blooms are gone, but that's far from the case. The seed heads have a sculptural quality of their own, and the foliage continues to provide a handsome backdrop for surrounding plants. Left undisturbed, peonies remain an attractive feature in the garden well beyond their flowering season.

Shop Peony Care for June

Peonies may be remarkably low-maintenance, but a little attention in June can make all the difference to next year's display. By deadheading spent blooms, keeping foliage healthy, watering during dry spells, and watching for pests and disease, you'll help plants build the energy reserves they need for a stronger return.

Put in the effort now, and your peonies will reward you with even bigger, more beautiful blooms next spring.

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As warm and sunny days arrive in June, you may start to notice a few herbs putting out blooms. Some gardeners will be tempted to harvest to prevent flowering, or may even collect the edible flowers to use in the kitchen. But, it's invaluable to leave some of these blooms for pollinators.

In fact, herbs are some of the best aromatic plants to attract wildlife, especially when in bloom. The likes of marjoram, borage, and thyme all display charming flowers this month in preparation to later set seed. Removing them can extend the harvest season (and preserve flavor), as it redirects the plant's focus to more leafy growth. However, allowing the blooms to form provides a vital nectar source for bees, butterflies, other important insects, and, in some cases, hummingbirds.

Here, with some insights from a garden pro, I talk through five herbs to let flower in June for pollinators.

1. Borage

Borage is a herb that is actually primarily grown for its edible flowers, which have a mild cucumber taste. Though, the leaves and stems can also be used in salads.

With distinct blue star-shaped blooms, it's worth leaving some of these beautiful flowers on display when they come out this month. Not only do they provide a unique blue flower for your planting, they're known to be frequented by several types of bees and butterflies.

'In my garden you will always find honeybees on borage. Bumblebees don't seem to bother as much (I think they are too large), but for smaller bees and solitary wasps they seem to love it,' says gardening expert Matt Tutt.

You can grow borage as an annual herb with these borage seeds from True Leaf Market.

2. Marjoram

Growing marjoram is easy and rewarding, with aromatic leaves that have a fresh, woody-citrus taste. By the time June and July come around, this herb is putting up flower spikes, topped with pink and mauve flower clusters.

These flowers are edible, offering a sweeter taste that is often used in a herbal tea. But, they're also a great source of nectar for many beneficial insects.

Bees, butterflies, hoverflies, and even moths visit marjoram flowers through summer. The tight clusters of the flowerheads provides a landing pad and easy access for them.

You can purchase a marjoram plant from Walmart or use these sweet marjoram seeds from Burpee for planting outdoors from late May-June, when the risk of frost has passed.

Marjoram is considered half-hardy and in most growing USDA regions (other than zone 9 and 10) should be overwintered indoors as a perennial. Or, you can treat it as an annual.

Don't forget to regularly deadhead the spent blooms (with these Fiskars herb garden scissors on Amazon) to encourage repeat flowers.

3. Cilantro

Depending on where you grow cilantro, you'll typically get white clusters of flowers between April and July. Of course, many home gardeners choose to let cilantro flower to later collect coriander seeds, but this isn't the only reason to let the blooms appear.

'There are lot of very small flies and pollinators that like the flowers of coriander,' says Matt.

This includes honeybees, hoverflies, and tachinid flies (which are beneficial parasitoids). They're all attracted to the sweet scent of the lacy flower clusters.

You can also eat cilantro flowers, which have a much more concentrated flavor than the leaves of the herb. Or, as Matt does, 'I like to let it go to flower, so I can collect and save seed for sowing next year.'

You can find cilantro seeds at Burpee, sowing them in early spring as a fast-growing annual. Sowing little but often until summer will provide a continuous supply and even more blooms for pollinators.

4. Thyme

June is a peak flowering month for thyme, with pink, purple, and white clusters. Just before the flowers appear, thyme's flavor tends to be most potent, so it is popular practice to harvest right before.

However, allowing the herb to flower will bring the likes of honeybees and bumblebees, as well as some butterflies. Plus, the leaves can still be harvested during this time, though they will be slightly milder.

After flowering through summer to fall, you should cut thyme back by a third to stop it going woody and to encourage some fresh, bushy growth.

Make sure to use sharp and clean pruning tools for this (like these Fiskars garden scissors on Amazon).

As a hardy evergreen, you can keep thyme outdoors for winter across USDA zones 5-9. Though, it is recommended to provide some shelter and mulch for insulation.

You can find thyme seeds at Eden Brothers, or purchase a thyme plant from Walmart.

5. Bee Balm

Bee balm is an unusual herb that you may be more familiar with as an ornamental, grown for its brightly colored, tufted blooms.

It actually belongs to the mint family, and both the leaves and flowers can be harvested for a citrusy-mint flavor. The most common types of bee balm used for culinary purposes is wild bergamot, lemon bee balm, and scarlet bee balm.

As its name implies, bee balm is hugely popular with all kinds of bees, from honeybees, bumblebees, and other solitary native bees. In fact, this is also a great plant for hummingbirds, as bee balm has tubular flowers that suit their long beaks. Plus, its bright reds and pinks are effective at attracting all these pollinators.

What's great about bee balm as a June-flowering herb for pollinators is the fact it blooms all the way from until fall, providing a long season of nectar.

You can typically grow bee balm varieties as reliable perennials across USDA zones 3-9.

Explore the range of bee balm plants at Nature Hills, or use these wild bergamot seeds from Burpee to grow your own.

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As well as these herbs to let flower in June, there are also several flowering weeds for pollinators to consider leaving through summer. This includes dandelions and clover, which you may spot on your lawn.

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As a beginner vegetable grower, I'm trying to navigate the right time to plant out certain crops in my garden. It all comes down to whether they're cool or warm-season vegetables, and fundamentally, the temperature of the soil.

The difference between the two is when these kitchen garden goods grow and the optimal conditions required. Cool-season crops, including leafy greens like spinach and lettuce, are best planted before the scorching summer temps. Meanwhile, warm-season crops, like legumes and cucurbits, prefer the soil to be much warmer. Planting vegetables at the wrong time can shock the plants and hinder your harvest.

The trick to being successful is knowing the exact soil temperature to plant vegetables, and a handy soil thermometer (like this one from Amazon) can help you monitor this. Here, Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens, reveals all about cool and warm-season crops.

The Optimal Soil Temperature For Cool-Season Crops

If you're hoping to grow lots of salad crops, like lettuce, spinach, and arugula, or root vegetables, like carrots and radishes, then it's important to know the right soil temperature for cool-season crops.

'Soil temperature is a crucial yardstick for planting vegetables. Your plants will establish efficiently if they are planted when the soil is just the right level,' explains Drew. 'If you do it too early, the plants are liable to sit there in cold soil sulking like a surly teenager,' he warns.

'The exact temperatures do vary slightly, depending on the crop, but for cool-season crops, the soil needs to be at least 45-50°F,' Drew notes.

Some crops are able to tolerate lower temperatures, notably lettuce, spinach, and potatoes, but Drew says to think of 45°F as a safe marker.

This tends to be the vegetables to plant in spring and vegetables to plant in fall, when conditions are milder. Of course, exact timing will depend on the climate in your US hardiness zone, so it's important to keep up to date with your local forecast.

You should use a reliable soil thermometer (like this one from Burpee) to check the temperature is consistently between 45-50°F for a week to 10 days, to ensure its a reliable planting window.

You can also get a soil thermometer that also tells you about moisture, pH levels, and sunlight exposure, like this 4-in-1 digital soil meter from Amazon.

The Optimal Soil Temperature For Warm-Season Crops

Popular warm-season crops include some legumes, cucurbits, tomatoes, and peppers, as well as other vegetables to plant in June. These vegetables require much warmer soil conditions for planting out.

'When it comes to warm-season crops, they would be in for a shock if you planted them at similar temperatures to cool-season ones,' Drew warns.

'These plants want warm roots, and their need for snug conditions means the soil should reach consistently 65-70°F before planting them,' he notes.

Of course, you may have started seeds indoors or in a greenhouse earlier in the season to get a head start. But, you should wait to transplant them until its warm enough to encourage strong and vigorous growth.

'Check the soil temperature over a few days, doing so a few inches under the surface. Don’t just do one reading – one day of warm soil is no guarantee that your plants will be happy,' Drew advises.

Once again, you should take a soil thermometer reading over several days to be sure conditions are suited to warm-season crops. This is especially true during the fluctuating, and often misleadingly temperate, conditions of late spring.

You can also get a digital soil thermometer from Walmart, for easy and convenient readings.

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Planting out vegetables when the soil temperatures aren't right is just one vegetable gardening mistake to avoid. You should also take care not to plant crops too close together and avoid planting more than you need to minimize food waste.

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It may feel a little odd to be thinking about Christmas while summer is getting into full swing, but if you own a Christmas cactus, June is actually a key month. In my experience, this is where a lot of people go wrong. The plant looks healthy, it's putting on new growth, and it seems happy enough, so it gets left to its own devices. But the care you give it now plays a huge role in how well it flowers later in the year.

One of the biggest myths surrounding Christmas cactus care is that they only need attention once buds start appearing in autumn. The reality is that winter blooms are months in the making. Right now, your plant is focused on growing, storing energy, and building the strength it needs to produce those signature festive flowers when the holiday season rolls around.

1. Prioritize Growth

June is all about helping your Christmas cactus put on healthy new growth. If you're wondering how to grow a Christmas cactus that flowers reliably year after year, this is the stage you shouldn't overlook. Unlike desert cacti, these plants are native to tropical forests, so they prefer conditions that are a little more humid and forgiving. I find the easiest approach is to water thoroughly when the top layer of soil feels dry rather than following a rigid schedule.

This is also the ideal time to fertilize a Christmas cactus. During its active growing period, a balanced houseplant fertilizer every few weeks throughout summer can help support stronger stems, healthier foliage, and ultimately a better display of blooms later in the year. I use the TPS Christmas cactus fertilizer from Amazon to help mine thrive at this time of year.

It may not be the most exciting gardening task, but in my experience, taking the time to fertilize a Christmas cactus regularly is one of the simplest ways to encourage a healthier plant and a more impressive flush of flowers come winter.

2. Give It Plenty of Light

Another mistake I see time and time again is people keeping their Christmas cactus in a dark corner. While you may have heard advice to keep a Christmas cactus in the dark to encourage flowering, that only applies later in the year when the plant is beginning to set buds. During June and the active growing season, plenty of bright, indirect light is essential for healthy growth.

A spot near a bright window is usually ideal. If you have outdoor space, you can even move the plant outside for summer, provided it's sheltered from intense midday sun and protected from sudden temperature drops. In my experience, the extra light often encourages stronger growth, which ultimately sets the plant up for a much better flowering display in winter.

I've found that one of the easiest ways to make sure a Christmas cactus gets enough light is to raise it slightly off the floor. The IKEA LÅNGNÄBB plant stand is my go-to for this, as it positions the plant closer to the window without taking up valuable sill space. I'm also a fan of adjustable plant stands like this Amazon option, which let you tweak the height throughout the year as light levels change.

3. Think Ahead to Winter Blooms

It's easy to focus on what's blooming right now, but when it comes to Christmas cacti, a little forward planning goes a long way. Everything the plant does over the next few months is helping it prepare for the flowering season. In fact, many common Christmas cactus mistakes – such as insufficient light, inconsistent watering, or neglecting to feed the plant during summer – can reduce the number of blooms you see later in the year.

If you're wondering how to make a Christmas cactus bloom, the answer often comes down to the care it receives long before buds begin to form. The stronger and healthier your plant becomes throughout summer, the better your chances of enjoying a spectacular display of flowers when winter finally arrives.

Shop Christmas Cactus Care for June

Personally, I've found that the best-performing Christmas cacti are rarely the ones that receive complicated care. They're the plants that get the basics right: enough light, consistent watering, occasional feeding, and a little attention during their active growing period.

So if you've been neglecting your Christmas cactus because December feels a long way off, consider this your reminder. June may not be the month when the flowers appear, but it is the month that helps make them happen. A few small adjustments now can pay off with a much more impressive display when winter finally arrives.

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June marks peak flowering season for most orchids, and there are some key care tasks to ensure yours stays in the peak of health. You'll need to water more frequently, apply a balanced fertilizer, and provide sufficient air circulation to prevent diseases this month. You can also prune your orchid's stem to encourage more blooms.

Orchids are often perceived as tricky plants to grow, but they can thrive with just a few careful considerations. Consistent moisture, high humidity, and bright but indirect sunlight is key, though regular feeding and watering is, of course, vital in the summertime.

Understanding how to care for orchids is all about adjusting your focus as the seasons change, and now is the time to check a few essential tasks off your list to ensure strong growth and even more blooms in the weeks ahead. (And if you're on the hunt for one, you can pick up a classic purple orchid from The Sill.)

1. Water More Regularly

It isn't easy to master the art of watering orchids, but one thing is for certain: you'll need to start watering yours more frequently in June.

As temperatures rise, the soil will dry out far quicker than you might expect, so it's important to pay particular attention to moisture. (Although balance is key, since overwatering can cause orchid root rot.)

'Orchids need much more water during summer than previous seasons,' confirms Tenielle Jordison, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'Of course, watering orchids is a tricky task as it is, so it can be a struggle to know how much more water your orchid needs right now.'

While you can use a soil moisture meter (like this one from Walmart) to monitor the soil conditions for many houseplants, orchids are a little different – and it's worth examining the roots instead.

'My top tip is to observe orchid roots when thinking about watering,' explains Tenielle. 'If they appear silver, they need a top-up of water. If they appear green, your orchid is well-hydrated and doesn’t need more water just yet.'

2. Fertilize Regularly

Fertilizing orchids is an essential task both before and during their active season – which means it's particularly important in June.

Whether you make your own orchid fertilizer or choose a ready-made option (like the Miracle-Gro indoor plant mist for orchids, which you can find at Amazon), it's best to fertilize orchids every 2-4 weeks throughout the spring and summer.

You can also use general-purpose indoor plant food, which is available at Walmart.

3. Prune Carefully to Encourage New Blooms

Knowing how to prune orchids is another tricky task, since different types of orchids need to be pruned in specific ways – and some shouldn't be pruned at all.

In June, however, phalaenopsis orchids (commonly known as a moth orchids) can be carefully trimmed to encourage even more blooms.

'By June, your moth orchids may start to look a little tired after several weeks of flowering,' explains Tenielle. 'It’s common for flowers to drop off at the start of summer and for orchid stems to turn yellow, but there’s one trick you can do to encourage another flush of blooms.'

Using sharp scissors (like these micro-tip pruning shears from Walmart), you'll need to make a few careful cuts along the flower stem.

'Look along the stem until you find the part that is still firm and green,' says Tenielle. 'Then, cut half an inch above a dormant "eye" (the triangular bumps along the stem). This will encourage new growth with brand new flower buds.'

4. Improve Air Circulation

Like many tropical plants, orchids thrive in humid conditions, but they still require sufficient airflow.

It's always worth creating the right humidity levels to ensure that your orchid is happy – you can use a plant mister, like this one from Wayfair, or invest in a pebble humidity tray, like this one from Amazon – but it's also crucial to provide enough air circulation to regulate leaf temperature and prevent fungal diseases.

With this in mind, orchids are best placed near a window to guarantee consistent airflow. Bathroom windowsills are particularly ideal, since there are higher levels of moisture in the air.

5. Check For Heat Damage

Though orchids love a warm spot, bright but indirect light is crucial to ensure that they don't suffer from heat damage and leaf scorch.

'If you’ve left your orchid on a particularly sunny windowsill during the temperature spikes this month, it may look a little crispy from heat stress,' warns Tenielle. 'The first thing you'll need to do is to give it a good prune and remove damaged stems and leaves.'

Once your orchid is looking neat and healthy, you might want to re-evaluate its position – and give it more water for an extra boost.

'Move it to a cooler spot, water well, and it should recover in no time,' advises Tenielle.

If you're in need of more advice, we asked experts to debunk popular orchid myths that might be making you feel apprehensive about growing these beautiful plants.

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Changeable temperatures in spring can trick your onions, and they may start to produce a flower stalk. But what should you do with bolting onions if you see them in your vegetable garden?

It is not an unusual issue when growing onions, but it can be frustrating to see. When an onion starts to bolt, which is usually the result of a late cold snap in spring, though a lack of water and nutrients can cause it, the best course of action is to lift and use it.

Bolting onions may be annoying, but it is part and parcel of growing the crop, and any other vegetable that tends to bolt. Here we look at what causes it, how to deal with bolting onions, and how to prevent it from happening to future crops.

The Causes of Bolting Onions

Bolting is when plants produce a flower stalk and start to go to seed prematurely. It is a natural mechanism usually triggered by stress that causes the plant to think it must complete its reproductive cycle earlier than it should.

It is a common issue with annual and biennial crops. Onions are biennial plants; they grow in one year and flower in the second. Stress, often caused by temperature shock, can kick-start bolting onions, and it can also be an issue when growing leeks. Annual vegetables, including lettuce, spinach, arugula, and radish, are also highly susceptible to bolting in hot weather.

When it comes to bolting onions, fluctuating temperatures are usually the prime cause. Warmer spring temperatures followed by a cold snap can affect plants, and they start to bolt once temperatures rise again.

Lucia Hechem, a plant expert from the plant care app PlantIn, explains that a cold snap can ‘confuse’ onions, especially if gardeners plant onions in the fall or very early winter.

‘If a hard freeze occurs after the plant has already grown six or more leaves, it tricks the onion into thinking it has survived a winter and is now in its second year, causing it to rush into seed production,’ she explains.

You can grow onions in two ways: either by onion seeds or onion sets. Choosing to plant onion seeds gives you plants less prone to bolting. Onion sets are more susceptible to bolting as they are older – they’ve already got a season under their belt before being planted.

Lucia claims that size can make a difference, too, saying ‘planting onion sets that are too large, larger than a dime, increases the risk’ of onions bolting in fluctuating spring temperatures.

Other stressors that can contribute to bolting onions include insufficient water or nutrients. A soil moisture meter, available at Amazon, is a handy tool to make sure your crop has the moisture in the soil it needs for healthy development.

However, if your onions have been in the ground since the last growing season, they will start bolting as part of their natural cycle. As biennial plants, onions will start flowering in their second spring in the ground.

What to Do With Bolting Onions

Bolting onions start producing a thick stem from the center of the bulb. As the plant focuses its energy on flowering, the bulb stops developing.

The best thing to do any time you see one start to bolt is to harvest the onion immediately. An onion that is bolting is edible, but you can’t store the onions. So lift the onion quickly, and use it right away.

Some gardeners cut off the developing stem, but Lucia warns of this tactic. ‘Simply cutting off the flower stalk while leaving the bulb in the ground can allow water to enter the hollow tube, which often leads to bulb rot,’ she claims.

A good alternative is to let the plant complete its cycle. Onions develop globe-shaped blooms, like ornamental alliums, that are great flowers for bees, pollinators, and other beneficial insects.

By letting the plant flower and go to seed, you can harvest onion seeds to sow again next year. ‘You just need to wait until the tiny seeds inside the blossom turn black and hard, which means they are ready to harvest,’ says Lucia.

Store your onion seeds in breathable envelopes (like these seed envelopes at Amazon) so they remain in the best condition to use.

How to Stop Onions Bolting

Bolting onions can be avoided by taking a few simple precautions. You can choose to grow onions from seed rather than sets, but if you prefer the ease of sets, look for bolt-resistant varieties (such as Texan Legend, Sturon, Red Creole, Stuttgarter, and Patterson) and plant the right types of onions for your location.

Long-day onions need 14-16 hours of daylight to bulb and are suited for cooler, northern climates, while short-day onions need 10-12 hours and suit southern climates, and intermediate-day onions are useful for central regions. Planting an unsuitable type is an onion-growing issue that potentially leaves plants stressed and more susceptible to bolting.

When planting onion sets, use smaller ones in the pack rather than favoring only the larger sets. And plant your onions at the right time to reduce the chance of bolting.

‘Avoid planting too early in the spring; you want to ensure the plants do not reach the vulnerable “six-leaf” stage before the last cold snaps of the season,’ advises Lucia.

When you do face cold snaps in spring, protect plants from frost with fleece or frost cloth (like the frost protection covers at Amazon) to stop plummeting temperatures triggering the bolting response. Finally, keep plants well-watered in warm periods and mulch around the crop to keep the soil temperature stable.

FAQs

Can You Eat Bolted Onions?

Yes, bolted onions are edible, but the central stalk that develops is woody and needs to be removed.

Can You Cure Bolted Onions?

This can cover two topics in one. Firstly, no, bolting cannot be reversed or cured. And, secondly, you should not cure onions in the way you do with normal onions before storing them. Lucia Hechem from PlantIn says: ‘Bolted onions will not store well because they develop a hard, unusable central core; they should be eaten right away rather than being cured for the pantry.’

A lack of moisture and nutrients was cited as a possible cause of onion bolting. These symptoms can be harder to manage when you grow onions in containers. If you do have your crop in pots, regular watering is essential to stop the compost from drying out completely, as is fertilizing the onions both when planting and in late spring or early summer to keep the soil's nutrient levels replenished.

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Temperatures are skyrocketing in the Eastern US and it's a reminder to check our plants are staying hydrated. One of my favorite ways to keep pot plants (and even houseplants) watered without spending hours going back and forth with my watering can is using terracotta watering spikes.

Terracotta watering spikes are ingenious tools that sit in plant pots filled with water. Because terracotta is porous, the water is slowly released into the surrounding soil, keeping plant roots consistently moist. Right now, I've got my eye on this 15-pack of Amazon terracotta watering spikes for just $22.89. Stocking up on them now will ensure my container garden is prepped for the summer months ahead.

I particularly like the sculptural shape and thickness of these terracotta watering spikes, ensuring durability where others are fragile and break. They've been bought over 2,000 times this month, with thousands of reviews raving about their quality and functionality. Plus, there's no doubt they bring a charming look to pot plants.

A Summer Essential

With containers already drying out quickly from being elevated, hot weather calls for a precautionary tool like terracotta watering spikes to stop plants dehydrating completely and experiencing heat stress.

Similar to watering globes (like these pretty green and pink ones from IKEA), the terracotta spikes gradually release water into plant soil. What makes them even better is the fact they're porous, so they can release water much more efficiently than the dripping habit of globes.

These Amazon terracotta spikes are designed to be buried in the soil and then hold an upside down bottle of water (like this glass bottle from Walmart). It creates a playful look, elevating containers, though you can also just fill the spikes up with water.

'I have a bad habit of overwatering plants and killing them,' says one five-star reviewer. 'With these [watering spikes] I wait until the soil is dry, water them and fill the stake. It's working out quite lovely,' they add.

'I have them on my cucumbers, I have them on my tomatoes, and they keep the soil damp all the time,' another person notes. 'Excellent product. My plants are thriving,' they add.

You can use the spikes in the ground too, much the same as a garden olla works (you can find a terracotta olla on Amazon).

The only thing to note is you still need to keep watering mistakes in mind to make these terracotta spikes work. 'They do drip until the water in the bottle runs out, even if the soil is already wet,' one reviewer notes.

This means some careful management is needed, only filling them up once the soil has dried sufficiently.

'I have not had a problem with them causing overwatering, as I fill them when the plant needs watering,' one shopper writes.

Nevertheless, the spikes provide much more consistent moisture for plants than frequent watering with a watering can, ideal for hot spells.

Just make sure to use a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) between topping up the watering spike to avoid overwatering and to prevent issues like root rot.

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Ahead of hot temperatures arriving, it's worth reading up on how to water plants in hot weather to avoid causing accidental damage. Our guide to protecting plants in a heatwave has more advice on the challenging seasonal conditions.

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Spring is a critical time for irises, and in May, you'll need to think about feeding them with a balanced fertilizer, watering them deeply (but infrequently) at the roots, and removing spent flowers.

Irises are a reliable addition to any garden, no matter whether you grow them in beds or containers. They provide a glorious pop of color when their flowers appear in spring, and bearded irises – the most popular garden variety – are impressively drought-tolerant once established.

With this in mind, knowing how to grow irises is a rewarding task; you'll just need to keep on top of a few crucial jobs before summer arrives. Below, we share our top tips on how to care for irises in May. (And if you want to add some to your garden, you can pick up a Caesar's Brother Siberian Iris from Plant Addicts.)

1. Use a Balanced Fertilizer

If you've been wondering when to fertilize irises, now is the perfect time. In May, irises are getting ready to put on a gorgeous display, so they'll need a good feed to support their growth.

Applying a balanced, slow-release fertilizer is best; most gardeners will choose a 5-10-10 or 6-10-10 plant food (like this liquid iris fertilizer from Amazon). Adding alfalfa pellets (which you can also find at Amazon) can also give your irises an extra boost.

Whatever fertilizer you choose, ensure that it is not nitrogen-rich: high nitrogen levels will encourage more leafy growth rather than flowers, and it can also leave your irises more vulnerable to pests.

2. Water Deeply

If you've been hunting for drought-tolerant planting ideas, irises are a brilliant choice. They thrive in full sun and well-draining soil, and they don't require constant watering once established – but you will need to practice infrequent but deep watering at this time of year.

Ultimately, balance is key: too much water can lead to root rot, but irises will still get thirstier as temperatures rise.

During dry spells, watering your irises roughly once a week should suffice; you can use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart, to check on the soil and ensure that it is dry enough before watering again.

3. Deadhead Carefully

'It's vital to know what to do with irises after they bloom, and I'm always watching for any faded flowers in May,' explains Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'I deadhead spent blooms as they begin to fade, as this encourages newer flowers to last for as long as possible.'

Investing in essential pruning tools is especially wise at this time of year; a reliable pair of pruning snips, like these micro-tip pruning snips from Home Depot, are crucial for tasks like deadheading.

4. Avoid Mulching

While mulching is beneficial for a range of plants in the spring, irises are particularly sensitive to moisture – and since mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil, it's best to hold off right now.

'One thing I would avoid doing is mulching,' says Rachel. 'You don't want to encourage those rhizomes to rot when the ground is getting warmer but still has a lot of moisture in it.'

5. Plan For the Next Season

It might sound hasty, but May offers a brilliant opportunity to examine your irises and start planning your next display.

'You'll see clearly how much your plants have multiplied by now, so it's also a good time to think about where you might want to divide clumps and split your irises later in the year,' says Rachel.

'While the flowers and foliage are fresh, make a note of any overcrowding, and this about where you might want to create a new patch of iris next year.'

What to Shop

If you're in need of more advice, check out our guide to the best bearded iris varieties (and how to grow bearded irises), alongside all the best non-bearded iris varieties.

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May is the perfect time to grow salvias in much of the U.S. As spring settles in and temperatures warm, these plants really start to wake up, pushing out fresh, vigorous growth. It’s a good moment to cut back any winter-damaged stems, lightly shape the plant, and let it build a strong, healthy framework.

In many regions, especially USDA zones 7–10, this kind of care in May pays off quickly, setting salvias up for a long, steady season of flowering.

Once summer heat arrives, salvias really come into their own. One of the reasons gardeners love to grow salvias – and the wide range of types of salvia available, from shrubby garden forms to airy meadow-like varieties – is the way their small, jewel-like flowers catch the light, glowing in shades of amethyst, garnet, topaz, and soft opal tones.

Depending on where you are, blooms may begin showing in late spring or early summer, then continue well into fall. In hotter and milder parts of the country, they’ll often flower right through heat, humidity, and dry spells, holding their color long after many other plants start to fade.

1. Cut Back Frost Damage

I usually leave salvias untouched through winter, even when the stems look untidy. The old growth provides valuable protection during cold weather, particularly for shrubby varieties.

By May, however, it’s generally safe to tidy plants properly. I remove any blackened or damaged stems and cut back to healthy new shoots emerging lower down. Salvias respond quickly once temperatures rise, often producing fresh growth within days.

One thing experience has taught me is not to cut too harshly into old woody growth. If there’s little sign of green at the base, I leave a framework of stems intact rather than risking dieback.

The Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon are the exact pair I use for pruning my salvia. If you want a more premium, professional-grade option, the Haus & Garten ClassicPRO Shears are excellent – though they do come at a higher price point than the Fiskars pair.

2. Pinch Out Young Stems

This is probably the most important May task – and the easiest to overlook.

Pinching out the tips of young stems encourages salvias to branch, creating denser plants with far more flower spikes later in the season. It feels slightly ruthless at first, especially when plants are growing strongly, but the results are always worthwhile.

I simply remove the soft tip just above a pair of leaves. Within a couple of weeks, several new shoots usually emerge below the cut.

This works particularly well for bedding salvias and newly emerging perennial growth.

3. Feed Lightly – but Don’t Overdo It

One of the pleasures of growing salvias is that they rarely demand much attention. In fact, I’ve found they often flower best in relatively lean soil.

In May, I usually apply a light mulch of compost around the base or use a balanced fertilizer sparingly. Overfeeding tends to produce lush foliage at the expense of flowers, particularly with shrubby salvias.

Container-grown plants benefit most from occasional feeding once active growth begins.

4. Water During Dry Spells

While established salvias are surprisingly drought-tolerant, younger plants can dry out fast once the weather starts warming up in spring. I’ve found it’s much better to water deeply every few days during dry spells, rather than giving them light daily sprinkles.

A proper soak encourages the roots to grow deeper into the soil, which helps the plants cope far better during the height of summer. I also like to add a layer of mulch around the base to lock in moisture and keep weeds down.

For watering, I use the Hydrotech Expandable Garden Hose from The Home Depot. It’s one of their bestsellers, and honestly, the fact that it doesn’t kink has been a game-changer.

5. Stake Taller Varieties Before They Flop

Some of the taller salvias – especially varieties like Salvia guaranitica – can become surprisingly top-heavy by midsummer. I learned this the hard way after one spectacularly flopped across a gravel path a few years ago. Now, I always add supports in early May, before the plants get too big and unruly.

Slim bamboo canes, like these Bamboo Sticks from Amazon, or natural hazel sticks work really well, and the foliage quickly grows around them so the supports virtually disappear by summer. You can find hazel sticks from your local garden nursery.

6. Keep an Eye Out for Slugs and Aphids

Fresh salvia growth is irresistible to slugs in damp weather, especially during mild springs. I check young shoots regularly throughout May because damage can happen quickly overnight. Aphids also gather on tender stems occasionally, although healthy plants usually grow strongly enough to tolerate minor infestations. Good airflow is key. Whenever salvias become overcrowded, I notice pests and mildew problems appear much more readily.

Shop Salvia Essentials for May

Salvias earn their place in the garden very quickly. They flower for months, cope surprisingly well with dry weather, and weave naturally through mixed borders without swamping nearby plants.

The deeper purple and inky-blue varieties are especially striking in summer light, with dark stems threading through grasses and late perennials while bees hover constantly around the flowers.

What’s so satisfying about salvias is how well they respond to a little attention in May. A quick pruning of salvia, some pinching out, and a bit of early support usually lead to bushier plants and a much longer display later on.

And even once the flowers fade, many salvias still look beautiful heading into fall, which is exactly why designers such as Piet Oudolf use them so heavily in naturalistic planting schemes.

If you're anything like me, you're out potting up colorful containers at the first signs of sun after a long winter. But, rushing into this task without carefully considering the mid-spring conditions can result in plant pot displays that don't last much longer than a few weeks.

Don't fret, however. You can revive your container garden with a bit of TLC and making some adjustments in both care and growing environment. Fluctuating weather conditions and lingering frosts in May are usually at the root of the problem, making watering, light exposure, and warmth trickier to manage for your plants.

Here, I talk through why exactly pot plants fail in May and what you can do to fix them fast, so you can have a vibrant display just in time for hosting season.

Why Pot Plants Fail in May

The core issue behind why pot plants fail in May is the unpredictable weather conditions.

While us gardeners are eager for the growing season to start, mid-spring can prove challenging with temperatures and light fluctuating hugely.

We experience some really warm days that trick us into thinking we can plant up all of our spring and early summer favorites. Yet, the following week can become super cold again. And while you may not realize it, depending on your US hardiness zone, your yard might still be getting some frost overnight in May.

Without adjusting care for your pots to align with these environmental changes, it's inevitable that you'll make container gardening mistakes this month.

For example, you may overwater your pots by not reducing watering frequency when it becomes cooler.

Likewise, you may have positioned container plants that prefer partial shade in a full sun position, leaving them to become leaf scorched and experience heat stress on those super sunny days.

Or, you may not realize you're yard is still getting some frost, so tender plants are planted too early and left exposed without any protection.

Luckily though, it's usually quite straightforward to diagnose the exact problem in your container garden and how to fix them before summer arrives.

How to Revive Pots in May

There are a few things you can do to revive failed pot plants in May. Of course, the first thing to do is diagnose what's causing your container plants to decline.

Watering Issues

To find out if your container garden has a watering issue, you'll want assess the plant root health by gently removing the plants from their containers. If the roots are rotting, brown, and mushy, some pruning is needed.

Take clean, sharp gardening snips (like these Fiskars ones from Amazon) to remove only the severely damaged roots. You want to ensure a robust healthy root system still remains.

Then, repot your plant with fresh potting soil. This Miracle-Gro potting mix from Lowe's is full of nutrients and drainage to support container plants.

If roots are shrivelled and dry, and the soil is pulling away from the container's edges, underwatering is likely the issue.

In this case, soak your container plants to rehydrate them. Bottom watering going forward can also ensure they soak up as much water as they need – you'll need a container with a saucer for this, like these beautiful blue ceramic ones from Wayfair.

You may find your plants show symptoms of watering issues, such as discoloring foliage. Make clean cuts to remove these, but avoid pruning too much of the plant to prevent shock. For this reason, follow the one third pruning rule.

Going forward, use a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to identify when your container plants need watering. Alongside this, watch the weather forecast for rain and hot spells to change watering accordingly.

Lighting Issues

With some days in May looking sunny and others overcast, it's easy for the more tender plants to experience some stress.

Right plant, right place is always important. It means placing a plant where it is best suited, rather than forcing it to live in a spot it doesn't get on with.

You may notice leaf scorch and wilting for the shade-loving plants that end up on a sun-trap patio in spring, for example. So, it's important to revisit the growing requirements of your specific container plants if they are struggling in May.

Those like hostas and ferns are shade-lovers, for example, so you should choose a protected spot for them. You can use something like a pergola or even the canopies of other plants to offer garden shade where it otherwise isn't possible.

In other cases, some plants don't receive enough light in May. Younger seedlings in particular may become leggy and weak, so moving them somewhere brighter is wise to encourage stronger growth.

Frost Issues

Across some US hardiness zones (notably up to zone 6) there are still lingering frosts in May. Being too eager and planting up containers before frost has passed puts tender plants at risk of damage.

By keeping an eye on your frost dates, you can use the right methods to keep your container plants happy. This may even mean waiting until June to plant up your pots.

In other cases where light frost is forecast, you may just want to provide some extra insulation to protect plants from frost. For example, you can wrap pots in burlap (like this from Amazon) at night, or move pots to a frost-free sheltered area at night.

To revive plants from frost damage, try not to prune straight away. This may only heighten stress. Instead, move them to a better location, keep them well-watered, and wait for new growth to appear before removing damaged plant material.

What to Shop

If you want to spruce up your spring containers for summer, our guide to summer container planting ideas has lots of inspiration. Equally, there are lots of shade container plants that thrive on neglect if you have a shadier yard and want something low-maintenance.

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Hungry vegetables, unsurprisingly, need regular feeding throughout the season. Topping the list of gluttons are tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, squash, and pumpkins. Thankfully, it is quick and easy to get a good feeding regime going at the right time, and you’ll be rewarded with a bounty of harvests.

Once the plants start flowering, it's a signal to start feeding them weekly with a high-potassium fertilizer. This helps the plants to flower and fruit prolifically, rather than focus on developing excess leaves and stems. Well-fed plants will have all the nutrients to set and ripen lots of fruit.

If you are growing any of those crops outlined above, a high-potassium fertilizer, such as a tomato feed, becomes the best fertilizer for a vegetable garden throughout the summer. Personally, I always use a liquid feed and apply it weekly when watering plants. It is a simple regime to implement into your weekly gardening plans, and it is guaranteed to make a big difference to your harvests.

When to Fertilize Vegetables After Planting

Understanding when to fertilize vegetables yields the best results – but the best feeding regimen varies by crop. Fertilizing a vegetable garden is not a one-size-fits-all approach. It is about understanding what each fertilizer does for plants, and when best to apply it.

It helps to add some fertilizer when you plant vegetables, either some compost or a slow-release, balanced product, to get the crop off to a good start when transplanting seedlings.

If you don’t feed at planting time, try to do it 3-4 weeks after. This window works when sowing seeds outdoors, as the crops benefit from nutrients once the seed germinates.

Light-feeding crops, such as roots, salad leaves, and leafy greens, often don’t need much more fertilizing unless they show signs of a lack of essential nutrients (such as slow growth or yellowing foliage).

On the other hand, heavy feeders want regular fertilizing throughout the season, often prompted by flowering.

Some hungry plants need additional fertilizer but don’t flower, such as brassicas and corn. These crops benefit from a single mid-season application of balanced or high-nitrogen feed.

However, hungry vegetables that flower and fruit don’t want lots of nitrogen at this stage of the season. They want a tailored, regular feeding regime, and that is what we focus on below.

Hungry Vegetables to Feed Once They Start Flowering

There is a good list of hugely popular vegetables that benefit from extra feeding once they start flowering. If you adore growing veg, the chances are you will have a good number of these in your kitchen garden.

The bonus of having many of them in a space is that you can put aside a spare bit of time each week to mix a liquid feed and give those vegetables a much-needed boost.

The likes of tomatoes, peppers (both chili and bell peppers), cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, squash (summer and winter squashes), pumpkins, and melons all sit on the list.

Once the plants start flowering, which can be 4-6 weeks after transplanting seedlings (the exact time will depend on location, weather, and variety), that is the sign to start implementing a regular feeding schedule.

Fertilize the plants every week or two as they continue to flower and fruit, until the last of the fruits are ripening.

If your hungry crops are growing in a vegetable container garden, I would definitely recommend feeding them weekly – that is a regimen I follow when growing hungry crops in pots, and it has worked fantastically growing tomatoes in pots.

The Best Feeds to Use

As well as understanding when to fertilize vegetables, using the right feeds is fundamental. Get it right, and the plants will be vigorous and give you a wealth of harvests. Get it wrong, though, and you’ll be left disappointed with the yield.

Once the vegetables outlined above start flowering, the key is to use high potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Using heavy-nitrogen fertilizers would be a mistake, as it encourages lots of lush leaves and stems rather than flowers and fruit.

The best fertilizers to use are tomato feeds. These products are high in potassium, which promotes flowers and helps to ripen fruits. The products also include all the other essential plant nutrients that help plants stay healthy and productive.

I would advise using a soluble product that you mix and apply when you water plants. These are quick and easy to use, providing a fast dose of nutrients to your vegetables.

I have always tried to pick one day a week to feed these hungry vegetables, so I kept a routine, and it became a part of my summer gardening norms.

Shop Tomato Feeds

When you grow leafy greens, including lettuce, salad, arugula, and more, and brassicas, these vegetables need lots of nitrogen – the nutrient responsible for foliage and green growth. This guide to the best nitrogen fertilizer for vegetables reveals some of the top products to use to get the best harvests from these crops.

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There's nothing quite as spectacular as a magnolia tree in full bloom. Different types of magnolia trees flower at different times of the year, but in May, your focus should be on fertilizing, deep watering, and mulching, alongside light pruning – although you'll need to be careful not to remove any new buds.

No matter whether you have an evergreen or deciduous magnolia tree, it will generally prefer rich, well-draining soil and bright light. Deciduous magnolias are the hardier option, while evergreen magnolias are generally larger.

While these trees certainly look spectacular, they require a few crucial maintenance tasks in the springtime to keep them healthy. If you're keen to find out exactly how to grow and care for your magnolia tree in May, you can find our top tips below. (And if you're looking to plant a magnolia, you can find a Sweetbay magnolia tree at Fast Growing Trees.)

1. Keep the Soil Moist

It's vital to ensure that your magnolia tree is watered regularly, especially in hotter weather (and just after planting).

With this in mind, you may want to invest in a drip irrigation kit (like this quick-connect irrigation system from Amazon), or set up a DIY drip irrigation system instead.

The priority is deep watering: consistent moisture delivered directly into the soil, allowing the roots of your tree to remain hydrated.

You will, however, want to maintain a careful balance. Magnolias don't grow well in waterlogged soil, but it's important not to let the soil dry out completely in between watering. You can use a soil moisture meter, like this one from Walmart to help you better understand when to water.

2. Don't Forget to Fertilize

'Magnolias don’t need copious amounts of nutrients each year, but they will benefit from a light feeding in spring,' says Drew Swainston, Content Editor at Homes & Gardens. 'This could be especially vital if their latest flowering display didn’t hit the same heights as previous years.'

You'll want to choose a slow-release, balanced fertilizer; you can even use a rhododendron feed like this acid-loving plant fertilizer from Amazon. Spread it across the surface of the soil, around the dripline of your tree.

'It's a busy time of year for magnolia trees: in the weeks and months after blooming, they are developing stems and buds to carry next spring’s display,' adds Drew. 'They will appreciate all the nutrients they can get.'

3. Make Time to Mulch

It's a good idea to get into the habit of mulching your plants at this time of year; not only does it help retain moisture, but it also regulates soil temperature and protects roots.

When it comes to magnolias, you'll want to add a thin layer of organic mulch around the base of your tree. You can find organic mulch at Home Depot for as little as $4 – just make sure not to pile it against the trunk of your magnolia tree, as this can cause it to rot over time.

4. Prune Carefully

If you were thinking about pruning your magnolia tree in May, it's best to take a restrained approach. Right now, your magnolia will require only light pruning; experts recommend holding off on extensive shaping until after your tree has finished flowering, since it risks damaging new growth.

'Magnolia trees often require little pruning; indeed, they can often go for many years without much attention,' confirms Drew. 'However, when they do need some TLC, they want to be trimmed after flowering.'

Using essential pruning tools (like these Fiskars 28-inch loppers on Amazon), carefully remove damaged branches.

'Once your tree’s display is over for the season, take a close look at the canopy to remove any dead, diseased, or crossing wood,' explains Drew. 'Also, remove any branches going in unwanted directions, such as towards the trunk. This light remedial work neatens the tree and boosts air circulation through the canopy, which helps to prevent disease.'

5. Check for Pests and Diseases

Examining the foliage of your magnolia tree isn't a task that is restricted to the springtime, but it is particularly important to reduce infestations and diseases while your tree is in its active growth period.

Scale insects are the main threat to magnolias, so it's worth checking regularly for clusters of these insects on the undersides of leaves. Remove them carefully to prevent lasting damage.

Wet, humid conditions in the spring and summer can also lead to fungal disease in magnolia trees.

The biggest warning signs are yellowing leaves and black spotting; if you notice any worrying developments and make sure to remove those diseased branches carefully.

Looking for more tips? We've created a guide to the best magnolia trees to add to your yard.

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