November is when a Thanksgiving cactus really comes into its own, with colorful blooms bringing a welcome burst of life to the home as the holiday season begins. A few simple adjustments to your care routine can make all the difference to its seasonal display.

As days grow shorter and indoor heating changes conditions inside our homes, your plant needs a little extra attention. I have the Thanksgiving Cactus from Plant Addicts, and November is an important time to ensure it has everything it needs to look its best for the holidays.

If flower buds have already appeared, keeping your plant's environment consistent will help them open. If your cactus hasn't started flowering yet, there are still steps you can take to encourage blooms, depending on its growing conditions.

Thanksgiving cactus care in November is all about getting the balance right. Too much water can leave roots sitting in soggy soil, while sudden changes in temperature, light, or humidity can cause developing buds to drop. Here's what to do with your Thanksgiving cactus in November to encourage a spectacular flush of blooms and keep your plant looking its best throughout the holiday season.

1. Give It Plenty of Bright, Indirect Light

Your Thanksgiving cactus still needs plenty of light in November, even as the days become shorter. As a tropical plant, it thrives in bright, indirect light, which supports healthy growth and helps it maintain developing flowers. However, harsh direct sunshine can scorch its fleshy green stem segments.

When deciding where to place a Thanksgiving cactus, an east-facing window is often an excellent choice, providing gentle morning sunlight without the intensity of the afternoon sun. A bright north-facing window can also work, provided it receives sufficient natural light. If your only option is a south- or west-facing window, use a sheer curtain to filter stronger rays.

Avoid placing your plant in a dark corner simply because it's flowering. Although Thanksgiving cacti need long nights to initiate blooms, they still benefit from bright, indirect light during the day. If natural light is limited, consider the Great Value 2ft LED Grow Light from Walmart, which provides supplemental light for indoor plants.

If strong afternoon sunshine is unavoidable, a light-filtering curtain, such as this sheer curtain panel from Home Depot, can help soften the sunlight.

2. Adjust Your Watering Routine

Getting watering right is one of the most important parts of Thanksgiving cactus care in November. Although these plants belong to the cactus family, they originate from tropical Brazilian forests rather than arid deserts, meaning they need more moisture than desert cacti but are still vulnerable to waterlogged soil.

Do check the potting mix before watering. When the surface begins to dry, water thoroughly until excess moisture drains through the drainage holes, then empty the saucer. A Fiskars Indoor Watering Can from Walmart is a practical option for watering houseplants precisely.

As temperatures drop and daylight decreases, your plant may need less water than it did in summer. However, avoid letting the potting mix dry out completely for extended periods, particularly when flower buds are developing, as this can cause stress and contribute to bud drop.

Check the soil regularly rather than following a rigid watering schedule. A well-draining potting mix and a container with drainage holes are essential. If your plant needs repotting after flowering, Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm & Citrus Potting Mix from Amazon is one option, although adding perlite can improve drainage further. Avoid repotting in November unless necessary, as disturbing the roots can stress a plant that's preparing to flower.

3. Keep Temperatures Consistent to Protect Flower Buds

If there's one thing your Thanksgiving cactus won't appreciate in November, it's sudden changes in temperature. Fluctuations can stress the plant and cause flower buds to drop before they open. Aim for daytime temperatures of around 65–70°F and cooler nights of 55–65°F to help support flowering.

Keep your plant away from drafty windows, exterior doors, heaters, fireplaces, and heating vents. Although a sunny windowsill may seem ideal, temperatures beside the glass can drop considerably on cold nights, while nearby heating sources can create excessive warmth and dry air.

If your plant is close to a heat source, move it to a more suitable spot before buds develop. Once flowering is underway, avoid relocating it unnecessarily. An indoor thermometer and hygrometer from Amazon can help you monitor room temperature and humidity, making it easier to spot fluctuations that could affect your plant.

Consistent temperatures, adequate light, and careful watering will give developing buds the best chance of opening, helping your Thanksgiving cactus look its best for the holidays.

4. Maintain the Right Conditions for Flowering

By November, many Thanksgiving cacti will already have formed flower buds. If yours is still producing green growth without any sign of flowers, pay closer attention to its light exposure and nighttime conditions.

Thanksgiving cacti are short-day plants, meaning long, uninterrupted periods of darkness help trigger flowering. If your plant hasn't developed buds, try providing around 12–14 hours of darkness each night, alongside bright, indirect light during the day. Cooler nights can also encourage flowering, although these conditions typically need to be maintained for several weeks, so results may not be immediate.

A programmable outlet timer from Amazon can help manage supplemental grow-light hours if you're using artificial lighting. Once buds have appeared, however, avoid making sudden changes to your plant's environment. Consistency is more important than trying to force additional flowers.

Indoor heating can also reduce humidity, which Thanksgiving cacti appreciate at moderate levels. If your home is particularly dry, group your plant with other houseplants or use a small room humidifier from Amazon. Avoid leaving the pot sitting in water or relying on frequent misting to compensate for dry air. Good drainage and air circulation remain essential for healthy roots.

5. Hold Off on Fertilizing and Pruning

November isn't the time to encourage your Thanksgiving cactus to produce lots of new growth. Instead, focus on maintaining healthy stems and supporting developing flowers. If you've been feeding your plant regularly during spring and summer, pause fertilizing while it's preparing to bloom and throughout its main flowering period. Resume feeding when active growth returns, using a balanced houseplant fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food from Amazon and following the label instructions.

Avoid major pruning, too, as cutting back healthy stems now can remove potential flowering points and reduce your display. If your cactus has become unruly over summer, wait until after flowering to prune, which can encourage branching and a fuller shape. Only remove broken, diseased, or dead segments in the meantime.

Once flowers open, clear away fallen blooms and check occasionally for pests or unhealthy stems. Otherwise, resist the urge to fuss over your plant. With consistent care, your Thanksgiving cactus can continue flowering for several weeks, bringing beautiful color to your home throughout the holiday season.

Shop November Thanksgiving Cactus Care

November is the time to focus on keeping your Thanksgiving cactus healthy and creating the ideal conditions for a beautiful holiday display. Provide bright, indirect light, water when the potting mix begins to dry, and protect your plant from cold drafts and sudden temperature changes. If buds have appeared, consistency is key; if you're still waiting for flowers, longer nights and cooler temperatures may help encourage blooming.

With the right care and a little patience, your plant can reward you with weeks of colorful flowers, making it a beautiful addition to your home throughout the holiday season.

Poinsettias are a holiday-season favorite, but if you want to keep yours looking its best through Christmas, October is an important month for care. Whether you're looking after a poinsettia from last year or preparing to bring a new plant into your home, a few simple adjustments can help keep its foliage healthy and its colorful bracts looking vibrant.

Native to Mexico, poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are tropical plants that respond to changes in daylight to produce their signature red, pink, white, or cream-colored bracts. These are modified leaves rather than flowers, with the plant's tiny yellow flowers clustered at the center.

As fall brings shorter days and longer nights, poinsettias naturally begin preparing to flower. If you're hoping to encourage a plant you've kept from last Christmas to develop its colorful bracts again, October is the time to pay particular attention to its light exposure, watering, and temperature.

October Care for Your Poinsettia

Getting your poinsettia care right now can help ensure your plant is healthy and ready for the holidays. Here are four things to do with a poinsettia in October to encourage a beautiful holiday display.

1. Give Your Poinsettia the Right Amount of Darkness

If you want to encourage a poinsettia to develop its colorful bracts in time for Christmas, October is the month to start managing its light exposure. Poinsettias are short-day plants that respond to long, uninterrupted periods of darkness to trigger the process that produces their signature color. To rebloom, they generally need around 14 hours of complete darkness each night for eight to 10 weeks, alongside plenty of daytime light.

Starting in early October, place your poinsettia in complete darkness from about 5 p.m. to 7 a.m. A dark closet or opaque cardboard box works well, provided no light reaches the plant. You could also use room-darkening linen blackout curtains from Target to help darken the room.

During the day, where to place a poinsettia is equally important. Return it to a bright window where it can receive six to eight hours of natural light, away from cold drafts. Continue this routine until the bracts begin to show color, typically in November. A stylish plant stand, such as the Wood Plant Stand Side Table from Target's Hearth & Hand with Magnolia collection, is a practical way to elevate your poinsettia and make it a focal point in your holiday decor.

2. Find a Bright, Warm Spot for Your Plant

While poinsettias need long, uninterrupted nights to develop their colorful bracts, they also need plenty of light during the day to remain healthy. Position your plant near a bright window where it receives good natural light without prolonged exposure to harsh direct sunlight. An east-, south-, or west-facing window can work well, provided the leaves don't touch cold glass.

Temperature is equally important. Poinsettias are tropical plants that dislike cold conditions, sudden temperature changes, and drafts. Aim for daytime temperatures of around 65–70°F, keeping plants away from exterior doors, drafty windows, heating vents, and fireplaces. Temperatures below 50°F can cause damage, while freezing conditions can kill the plant.

If your poinsettia has spent the summer outdoors, bring it inside before nighttime temperatures fall below 50°F. A simple way to monitor indoor conditions is with the AcuRite Digital Humidity and Temperature Comfort Monitor from Home Depot, which displays room temperature and humidity.

3. Adjust Your Watering Routine

As temperatures change and indoor heating begins to affect your home's environment, it's important to pay attention to how much water your poinsettia needs. The aim is to keep the potting mix lightly moist without allowing the roots to sit in water.

When it comes to watering a poinsettia, check the soil regularly and water thoroughly when the top 2–3 inches feel dry. Allow excess water to drain away completely, and empty any water that collects in the saucer or decorative outer pot.

Overwatering is a common cause of problems with poinsettias, as consistently saturated soil can damage the roots and lead to root rot. However, letting the plant dry out completely can also cause wilting and leaf drop. A poinsettia in a warm, bright room may need water more frequently than one in a cooler space, so check the soil rather than following a rigid schedule.

Good drainage is particularly important if your poinsettia sits inside a decorative holiday container. Remove the nursery pot before watering and allow it to drain fully before returning it to its display. A self-watering planter from Amazon, with drainage holes, is a practical option for helping excess water escape while protecting your surfaces.

A soil moisture meter, such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon, can also help you monitor moisture levels and avoid overwatering.

4. Check for Signs of Stress and Encourage Healthy Growth

October is also a good time to check your poinsettia for signs of stress. Look for yellowing leaves, wilting, or unexpected leaf drop, which can indicate problems with watering, temperature, or growing conditions. Remove fallen leaves and inspect the foliage for houseplant pests.

If you're trying to rebloom a poinsettia you've kept since last Christmas, continue providing appropriate care while the bracts develop. A balanced houseplant fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro All Purpose Soluble Plant Food, can support healthy growth when used according to the label instructions, but avoid overfeeding.

Remove dead or damaged leaves with clean Fiskars pruning snips from Amazon, and if you spot pests, consider a suitable treatment such as Bonide Insecticidal Soap from Lowe's, following the product directions.

Poinsettias can be challenging to rebloom indoors, as success depends on the variety and receiving the correct combination of daytime light and uninterrupted darkness. If your plant remains green for longer than expected, inconsistent darkness may be the reason.

Once the bracts begin to develop color, you can stop the nightly poinsettia in the dark treatment and return the plant to its usual bright position. Continue watering as needed and maintain a stable, warm environment to help the display last.

October is an important month for poinsettia care, particularly if you're hoping to encourage a plant to rebloom for the holidays. With the right balance of daytime light, uninterrupted darkness, careful watering, and protection from cold drafts, you can help your poinsettia stay healthy and prepare for a colorful Christmas display. If you're buying a new plant for the season, choose one with healthy green foliage and vibrant bracts, and protect it from cold temperatures on the journey home.

While the garden is gradually quietening, October sees a second flush of rose blooms from repeat flowerers such as Hybrid Teas and Floribundas. Softly glowing, their flowers appear more abundant and last longer thanks to the cooler temperatures and moist conditions.

From afar, each plant may appear to be healthy and thriving but it's well worth taking a closer look. If you spot a peppering of black spotted yellow leaves, now is the time to take urgent action.

A crucial element of rose care and growing these romantic plants, is identifying and dealing efficiently with pests and diseases. Black spot is perhaps the most prevalent threat to rose health but thankfully October is the best time to deal with it. A thorough clear up now, and for that this Telescopic Leaf Grabber from Walmart is handy, will encourage good plant health and help prevent the disease reoccurring the following season.

Why Clear Up Diseased Rose Leaves

There's no ignoring blackspot once it appears on your roses. Purplish blotches first appear on the leaves and spreads with a raggedy edge while the rest of the leaf gradually yellows and falls.

'Black spot is caused by the fungus Diplocarpon rosae, which can overwinter on infected leaves and plant debris beneath roses. If that material remains in the bed, rain or irrigation can splash spores from the infected debris onto the rose’s lower leaves,' advises Wes Harvell, Rosarian, Jackson & Perkins.

Hard to kill and with constantly evolving strains, this rose disease spreads through rose foliage and stems, severely weakening the plant and drastically reducing blooms. Even new cultivars that are bred to be blackspot resistant have eventually succumbed to the harmful spores, as the disease adapts over time.

Knock Out Roses, including Peachy Knock Out from Perfect Plants , are well regarded for their disease resistance, having been genetically tweaked to make it harder for problematic fungal spores to take hold.

Blackspot spores are quick and easy to spread through wind and water, so eliminating the source is a wise measure, as Wes advises.

'Removing and destroying infected leaves at the end of the season can reduce one of the sources that could cause a new infection to begin. October is a particularly useful time to pay attention to clean-up because roses in colder climates are beginning to enter dormancy and shed foliage naturally.'

Quick And Easy Leaf Clear Up Tricks

Removing blackspot infected rose leaves and stems is a task on the fall gardening checklist that is well worth spending time on.

'Start by removing infected leaves still attached to the rose, then thoroughly rake and collect fallen foliage and debris from around the base of the plant,' advises Wes. 'Avoid doing this work while plants are wet, as moisture help black spot spread.'

Gently removing blighted leaves by hand is the simplest and most effective method, but wearing thick gloves, such as these Pro Rose Gloves from Lowes, is a must, as Wes suggests. 'Wear protective gloves when working around roses, both because of thorns and because you’re handling diseased material. Also, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handing a black-spot-infected rose so you don’t accidentally spread fungal material elsewhere in the garden.'

Gathering fallen rose leaves can be a laborious job to do by hand, and there are plenty of leaf-clearing tools to use, but it's crucial to disinfect and clean garden tools afterwards, to prevent transferring spores around the garden. Retainer Cleaner and Lubricator from Walmart is handy option for pruners, loppers and garden snips.

Always avoid using a leaf blower near infected rose leaves as this is an easy way to spread the spores.

How To Safely Dispose Of Infected Foliage

What to do with infected rose foliage is a popular question many gardeners ask. Given the ease with which the spores spread it is imperative that they are disposed of efficiently and responsibly.

'Do not compost them and don’t leave them lying in the garden,' insists Wes. 'Put black-spot-infected leaves directly in the trash because spores can survive on fallen foliage. If diseased material remains beneath the rose, it can become a source of reinfection.'

He also suggests that it's well worth refreshing your mulch afterwards too. 'Adding a layer of mulch can help prevent rain or irrigation from splashing fungal material from the soil back onto the foliage.' One of the best mulch for roses is cedar bark chips - find this naturally insect repelling mulch at Walmart.

Bag up infected leaves and place them in your household garbage. If you have large quantities of foliage check your municipality's official website for curb-side pickup programs and drop off sites for municipal recycling.

While most garden cuttings can be successfully home composted, this is not advised for blackspot as most heaps do not produce the high or constant heat of 140°F (60°C) needed to destroy the fungal spores.

Instead, you can bury them in the soil, leaving them to rot down naturally. Just be sure to chose a spot where they will remain undisturbed and dig down to a depth of 1 ft (60cm).

Controlled burning of blackspot infected leaves can be carried out in some areas, but always check the local fire codes, active burn bans and neighbourhood permissions before proceeding. A lidded yard incinerator, such as this Yard Tuff Burn Cage from Lowe's is a neat and safe choice.

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Tackling this rose care task in October will not only encourage healthier plants and more plentiful blooms next year, but save you time and effort discouraging persistent rose pests too.

A classic plant choice for cottage garden ideas, why not seek more design inspiration from landscaping with roses.

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Lavender is a favorite in American gardens, loved for its fragrant flowers, silvery-green foliage, and ability to attract pollinators. But as fall arrives, a little extra attention can help keep plants healthy and encourage fresh growth when spring returns.

October is an important time to grow lavender successfully, particularly if you live somewhere with freezing winters. I have the Phenomenal Lavender from Plant Addicts growing in my own garden, and preparing plants for colder weather is all about getting the basics right, from good drainage to knowing when to cut back on watering. Different lavender varieties can also have different cold tolerances, so it’s worth understanding what your plant needs to make it through winter.

How to Care for Lavender in October

Whether you’re growing lavender in pots, borders, or landscaping with lavender to create a fragrant, pollinator-friendly garden, these five simple October tasks will help protect your plants through winter and encourage a beautiful flush of blooms next year.

1. Hold Off on Heavy Pruning

If you’ve already trimmed your lavender after flowering in late summer, there’s usually no need for another major cut in October. Instead, focus on light maintenance: deadhead lavender by removing any remaining spent flower stems, using clean, sharp pruning shears such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon. This helps keep plants looking tidy without encouraging a flush of tender new growth just before winter.

Pruning too late can leave new growth vulnerable to frost, particularly in colder parts of the country. Avoid cutting into the woody stems, as lavender often struggles to regrow from old wood, and cutting back too far can permanently damage the plant. If yours looks leggy or overgrown, wait until spring to assess its shape and remove any winter-damaged growth. In colder regions, it’s best to avoid fall pruning altogether.

2. Check That the Soil Drains Properly

One of the most important things to do with lavender in October is make sure its roots aren't sitting in wet soil. Lavender thrives in sunny conditions with excellent drainage, and excessive moisture during winter can lead to root rot. Choosing the right soil for lavender is especially important if your garden tends to hold water after rain.

‘Lavender thrives when its roots can breathe, so good drainage is especially important as temperatures drop and fall rain arrives. I'd focus on keeping the soil relatively dry and avoiding anything that allows moisture to collect around the base of the plant,’ says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens.

If your garden has heavy clay soil or becomes waterlogged after rain, consider growing lavender in a raised bed or container instead. You could improve suitable garden soil with a horticultural grit, such as Soil Sunrise Lavender Potting Soil Mix, to help improve drainage, or choose a specialist mix such as Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Citrus Potting Mix for container-grown plants, checking the product label before use.

3. Reduce Watering as Temperatures Drop

Established lavender growing in the ground is drought-tolerant and rarely needs additional watering in fall unless conditions are unusually dry. As temperatures cool and growth slows, the plant generally requires less moisture than it did during summer. Knowing when and how to water lavender is especially important in October, when cooler weather and seasonal rain can leave roots vulnerable to excess moisture.

Potted lavender needs a little more attention because its soil can dry out more quickly. Check the potting mix before watering, using a moisture meter such as the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter if you're unsure whether the compost is dry. When watering, a Bloem Easy Pour Watering Can from Amazon can help you direct water towards the soil rather than the foliage.

4. Protect Potted Lavender From Freezing Weather

Lavender grown in containers is more vulnerable to cold than plants in the ground because its roots have less insulation. If you're growing lavender in pots, October is a good time to plan where your containers will spend the colder months. Hardy English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) can often remain outdoors through winter, provided the soil drains well and the variety is suited to your climate.

Move pots to a sheltered spot, such as beside a wall, where they can receive sunlight and some protection from heavy rain. If you need to move larger containers, a plant caddy with wheels, such as the Lowe’s Garden Rolling Plant Caddy, can make repositioning them easier.

French and Spanish lavender are generally less cold-hardy and may need to be moved into a frost-free greenhouse or another protected space. Check the plant label for your variety’s specific hardiness requirements.

In colder areas, protect the roots of hardy lavender with an insulating wrap around the pot, such as a breathable Frost Protection Fleece available from Amazon. Once the plant is dormant and the ground has begun to freeze, you can also protect the surrounding roots where appropriate. Avoid heavy, moisture-retaining materials around the crown, as these can encourage rot.

5. Skip Fertilizer and Keep the Plant Tidy

Lavender naturally grows well in relatively low-nutrient soil, so established plants generally don't need much fertilizer. If you're wondering whether to fertilize lavender in October, the answer is usually no. This isn't the time to encourage lots of new growth, particularly if freezing temperatures are approaching. Save any feeding for when active growth resumes in spring, if your plants need it.

Instead, focus on keeping your lavender healthy through winter. Clear away fallen leaves and debris around the base of the plant to improve airflow and help keep the crown dry. A pair of Fiskars Garden Hand Pruners can help remove damaged or dead stems, while Garden Safe Garden Fungicide from The Home Depot is an option to consider only if a specific fungal disease develops, following the label instructions.

Lavender is relatively low-maintenance, but a little preparation in October can make all the difference when winter arrives. Avoid heavy pruning, water only when necessary, and make sure your plants have well-draining soil to protect their roots from excess moisture.

By tailoring your approach to your lavender variety and local climate, you’ll give your plants the best chance of coming through winter healthy and rewarding you with another season of fragrant blooms next year.

If you are tempted to clip back hydrangeas as part of your Autumn yard tidy up - stop now - and put away those pruners. While our natural instinct as gardeners is to clear away the summer's growth and create order, in preparation for the coming winter, clipping back hydrangeas definitely shouldn't be on your October to-do list.

As deciduous flowering shrubs these much-loved garden favorites have now finished blooming for the year, and are busy storing energy ready for spring regrowth. There is also the likely danger that a major prune now will directly impact next years flower production.

As experts advise, one of the most crucial rules of learning how to grow hydrangeas is identifying the type you are growing and knowing when to prune. We delve into why you should temporarily put down your pruners and the two sole reasons you should use a pair, such as these Felco F2 from Lowes, on hydrangeas in October.

Why Avoid Pruning Hydrangeas In October

October is a crucial point of the year for hydrangeas. While the flowers have faded and growth has slowed, they may look a little raggedy, but it's vital not to prune these flowering shrubs now.

Why? Well simply because you may, unwittingly, remove next years flower buds as well as that untidy branch or stem. While there are some exceptions, which we'll explore further on, October is generally accepted as a time to leave hydrangeas untouched.

Generally divided into those varieties that flower on old wood and those that bloom from new, it is all important to identify each plant you have before reaching for the pruners.

'Bigleaf hydrangeas, mountain hydrangeas, oakleaf hydrangeas, and some other types commonly produce flowers on old wood. For example, ‘Nikko Blue’ Bigleaf Hydrangea and Gatsby Moon® Oakleaf Hydrangea bloom on old wood and should be pruned in late summer,' explains plant expert Kelly Funk. Find Nikko Blue Bigleaf Hydrangea at Perfect Plants and Gatsby Moon Oakleaf Hydrangea at Nature Hills.

Another reason to hold off pruning now is frost protection. Any cut stem will stimulate fresh new growth and this will prove too tender to survive a frost, leading to potential disease setting in and long term damage. If you are really worried about your hydrangea being exposed to severe frost, wrap the plant with horticultural fleece such as this from Lowe's.

What About Hydrangeas That Bloom On New Wood

If you are charmed by the generous pom-pom like blooms of hydrangea 'Annabelle' and 'Incrediball', or the curious floral cones of Hydrangea paniculata, then your plants will bloom on 'new wood'; that is stems that have grown that season. While these hydrangea varieties require a different pruning regime to 'old wood' hydrangeas, October is still not the correct time for this task.

'Panicle and smooth hydrangeas flower on new wood, so pruning does not remove the following year’s flower buds in the same way,' says Kelly. 'However, that doesn’t necessarily mean they should be pruned in October.

Leaving stems intact through fall allows the plant to continue storing energy and preparing its root system for winter, which can be especially important in colder climates or when plants are already stressed.' Discover how to grow smooth hydrangeas here.

The same no prune in October rule goes for modern bigleaf hybrids too. 'Reblooming bigleaf hydrangeas like Endless Summer or Penny Mac are the exception because they bloom on both new and old wood,' explains Nikki Bruner. Find these hydrangeas and other varieties at Perfect Plants.

Leave Hydrangeas Unpruned For Wildlife

Leaving faded hydrangea flowerheads intact provides more than just visual interest in fall and winter gardens. Providing food and shelter for birds, small mammals and pollinators, these plant qualities are often overlooked and undervalued.

'There can also be wildlife benefits, although these depend on the cultivar,' explains Kelly. 'The flowers of Tuff Stuff TopFun™ mountain hydrangea attract bees, butterflies, and beneficial insects during summer, while its seeds attract songbirds in late fall. Tiny Quick Fire® also has hollow stems that can provide nesting habitat for bees, another reason not to automatically clear every stem from the garden.'

Adding a layer of mulch, such as Hyponex Wood Chips from Walmart, around the base of each hydrangea will not only supress weeds and retain moisture, but increase overwintering options for hibernating insects too.

The Only Reason To Use Pruners This Month

The only reasons to wield your pruners near a hydrangea in October is when deadheading or cutting out dead and diseased growth.

'If gardeners simply dislike the appearance of old flowers, deadheading is different from pruning,' explains Kelly. 'A spent hydrangea flower can be removed as long as you take only the flowerhead.'

If you do decide to remove the faded blooms, display them in this Rose Tinted Glass Vase from Crate & Barrel. for a enchanting seasonal arrangement.

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If you are concerned about damaging or accidently removing hydrangea flower buds seek reassurance by looking closely at your plant. 'You can actually see and notice the flower buds forming which is one of the only ways to recognize the difference and save your spring flowers from their pruning demise,' explains Nikki Bruner.

'The ends of the stems will look swollen and like a bud is forming, they should be visible in October.' Discover how winterizing hydrangeas can preserve your plants for future years.

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Heading into October, it's easy to sustain a lively and color-filled yard if you choose the right, hardworking plants. Glorious goldenrod has to be one of the smartest choices, with it's plumes of tiny sunshine flowers dazzling as the season mellows.

Native to North America, goldenrod or solidago is hugely attractive to pollinators thanks to it's late flowering period and long-lasting profusion of flowers each brimming with pollen and energy-giving nectar. This - plus it's dramatic personality - makes it one of the best plants to attract bees to your garden.

Closely related to asters, goldenrod is a long-lived and easy-going perennial that demands little upkeep. Clump-forming, it is quick to establish and spread via rhizomes. There are many plant types to choose from, suiting sunny yards big and small. Anise Scented Goldenrod from Amazon with it's vivid feather-like blooms and spice-scented leaves is a particularly good clump-forming choice.

Why Bees Seek Out Goldenrod In October

There's no denying that bees seek out goldenrod but what exactly is the appeal of this impressive perennial? Is it the late appearing blooms, their tightly clustered nature or the plant's robust and drought-tolerant nature? Well - it's a combination of all these elements, as experts explain.

'Goldenrod produces masses of tiny flowers packed into its showy plumes, giving bees access to a lot of nectar and pollen without having to travel from plant to plant,' says Master gardener Tabar Gifford. 'And it blooms just as many of the summer's major nectar sources are fading, so its timing is especially valuable.'

Mary Phillips, Head of Native Plant Habitat & Certifications at the National Wildlife Federation agrees and points out that, 'An important source of nectar and pollen. Goldenrod's late-season flowers can help native bees build up the resources they need before winter.'

She also adds, 'goldenrod is a keystone species that has evolved alongside over 50 types of specialist native bees, including leafcutter, longhorn, mining, carpenter, and sweat bees.'

Learn more about North American bees and their needs in Bees In Your Backyard Guide available from Amazon.

Why Are Nectar And Pollen Vital For Bees In Fall

Goldenrod, one of the best fall-blooming native plants, is abundant with nectar and pollen at a time of year when most blooms are fading. This makes it a favorite destination plant for bees and other pollinators, but why are these substances so sought after?

'Nectar provides bees with energy, while pollen supplies protein and other nutrients they need for growth and reproduction,' explains Tabar. 'By late summer and into fall, that food is particularly important as bees prepare for winter or, in the case of many solitary bees, complete the reproductive stage of their life cycle.'

Stockpiling reserves to see them through the winter is motivation for certain types of bee.

'Bumble bees are also frequent visitors in fall,' says Tabar. 'New queens are among the bees taking advantage of late-season flowers to build the energy reserves they'll need to survive the winter. Supporting those queens is important because they are the ones that emerge the following spring and establish new colonies.'

Support the life cycle of solitary bees by providing a safe nesting site using groups of Rivajam Phragmite Reed Bee Tubes from Amazon, tucked into gaps in stone or brick walls and tree trunks.

Types Of Goldenrod To Plant And Avoid

A North American native, there are around 75 species of goldenrod in the country, each thriving in their own specific habitats. But it's worth checking each types specific growing habits before choosing one for your yard. Mary explains, 'A native plant that is too vigorous in one setting may be perfectly appropriate in another. Use the National Wildlife Federation’s Native Plant Finder to find species native to your ZIP Code.'

One standout species that turns heads, if given the space it needs, is Fireworks Goldenrod, available from Nature Hills. The arching, slender stems are lined with starry blooms from late summer through to late fall. This plant does need room though, thriving in USDA Zones 4-9, it grows to around 3-4 ft (91-121cm) tall and 2-3 ft (61-91cm) wide.

Growing in smaller, manageable clumps, perfect for the front of borders, Solidago sphacelata ‘Golden Fleece’, found at Garden Goods Direct, is compact, reaching heights of up to 1-2ft (30-61cm) and smothered in dense, frothy flowers from late summer to fall.

If you are after a shade loving and characterful species then Zigzag goldenrod or Solidago flexicaulis grows to 2-4’ (61-121cm) with a spread of 2-3’ (61-91cm). Happy in sun or part shade, its ideal for planting on woodland edges and is one of the best plants for under trees.

Late Flowering Plant Pairings For Pollinators

Filling the yard with vibrant, fall-flowering perennials is not solely about extending the visual appeal of our yards but also to provide invaluable resources for pollinators when most needed.

Sedum, coneflower and autumn crocus are all nectar-rich, and useful companions to goldenrod, but there's one plant that is the perfect compliment.

'Goldenrod works especially well when planted alongside other late-season native flowers, particularly asters. Together, goldenrods and asters can provide a succession of nectar and pollen when much of the garden is winding down,' says Mary.

'When left in place, goldenrod seedheads are an important food source for birds, while the standing stems offer overwintering sites for native bees and other beneficial insects,' she adds.

Find an inspiring range of aster at Eden Brothers including New England Aster Seeds.

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Goldenrod is just one of many plants for pollinators that every yard should have. There are lots of other ways to help bees in October in your garden.

Discover these along with the wildlife garden ideas that can support these hardworking creatures to make our plots more valuable ecologically.

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October sees a real shift in the garden, as summer perennials fade and transition into dormancy. For coneflowers (or echinacea), there are a few things to do this month to help them with this change and prepare for winter.

It's pretty low maintenance to grow coneflowers. With a hardiness across zones 3-9, they return reliably in spring with little winter protection. Nevertheless, in the coldest climes, newly planted coneflowers benefit from some light mulching (you can use this mulch blend from Walmart) to insulate roots. It's also best not to cut back coneflowers this month and allow the seedheads to remain for birds to eat.

Really, coneflower care in October is pretty minimal. However, ticking off the below tasks can help yours make a glorious return next year.

1. Leave Seedheads for Birds

Coneflowers are one of the best plants for seedheads, with the center cones drying and turning into sculptural silhouettes for the winter garden.

As well as leaving them to provide some structure in your flower beds once everything else fades, you should also leave seedheads to help feed birds in fall and winter. Each seedhead contains dozens of fat and protein-filled seeds for the birds to eat where other natural food sources are scarce.

Another reason you should avoid cutting coneflowers back now is that their hollow stems can provide shelter for overwintering insects, including native bees.

This is why there's danger in over-tidying your yard in fall and why you should hold back until spring once the insects leave.

To provide even more food for birds, make sure to also hang up a bird feeder. Tube bird feeders (like this from Walmart) are beneficial in fall and winter because they keep out moisture which can cause mold.

2. Remove Diseased Foliage

While there isn't a need to cut back coneflowers in October, you should inspect these perennials for any diseased and damaged foliage.

Any plants that suffered with powdery mildew and fungal diseases should be removed as they can overwinter and may spread further in your garden come spring.

Likewise, any coneflowers that experienced plant diseases like aster yellows can be cut back to a couple of inches above the ground.

You should always use clean and sharp pruning tools for this, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon. Avoid composting this material and rather dispose of it, as this also risks disease spread in your garden.

Make sure to also clean your gardening tools after use.

3. Winterize Potted Coneflowers

If you grow coneflowers in pots, they require a bit more winter protection than those in the ground. This is because their roots are more exposed to the cold temps and frost, risking damage that may kill off your plant.

You can protect container plants by relocating them to a sheltered location, wrapping pots in burlap for insulation (like this burlap from Amazon), and putting a light layer of mulch on the surface to lock in moisture.

If you don't have a sheltered position available, this portable cold frame from Walmart can be a handy investment.

4. Put Down Mulch

While they need minimal protection, it's wise to winterize coneflowers by mulching. This will keep plant roots warm and hydrated, ensuring they stay healthy for returning next year.

Luckily, there are lots of fall mulching materials you can gather from the garden for free, including making leaf mulch. Alternatively, you can purchase bags of mulch from Lowe's.

You only need to put down a light layer of mulch around the base of your coneflowers, between 2-4 inches depending on how cold your climate is. Ensure the mulch is a few inches away from the crown and stems of your coneflowers, as it may risk rot and kill off your plant.

5. Divide Overcrowded Coneflowers

You can divide coneflowers every 3-4 years as new clumps form. This will rejuvenate your coneflowers and keep them productive for more years to come.

While many gardeners wait to divide plants in spring, fall is also a good time to do it – so long as it's around three weeks before the first hard frost. This will give your coneflowers enough time to settle and recover before freezing temperatures arrive.

To divide coneflowers, cut the stems back to a couple of inches to avoid excessive moisture loss.

Dig a few inches around the coneflower and lift carefully. A hori hori knife (like this from Amazon) can be useful for this.

You can then use your garden knife or garden fork (like this from Burpee) to split the clumps into healthy sections, each with their own root system and crown.

When you replant, make sure to water well to help the new plants settle in.

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Coneflowers aren't the only perennials that need some attention this month. Our guide to plants to overwinter in October has more information on which to lift and store, and our list of essential winterizing tools can make your fall jobs easier.

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It's fall, which means just one thing: chrysanthemums galore. It's the staple seasonal bloom that is not only easy to grow, but versatile – it works in pots, borders, and even indoors. However, keeping them looking their best for longer than just a couple of weeks calls for some light maintenance this month.

Growing chrysanthemums is pretty straightforward; keeping chrysanthemums blooming for longer, however, requires a bit more effort. In October, it's important to keep deadheading mums (these Fiskars gardening snips from Amazon are a good choice for this), keep them watered without overdoing it, and look out for frost to protect them from icy conditions.

Doing these few things in fall can double the length of your mums display, and even allow you to move them indoors for some extra weeks of enjoyment. Here, alongside insights from a plant expert, I talk through three things to do with chrysanthemums in October.

1. Keep Deadheading

If you're wondering whether you should deadhead chrysanthemums in fall, the answer is yes. Regularly pinching off spent blooms will redirect the plant's energy into putting out more flowers.

'Focus on pruning stems with withered, unappealing flowers, as well as any growth that can rot and become a habitat for pests and diseases. Cut off spent flower tops, leaves, and any diseased growth,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'Deadhead throughout October until the first severe frosts, pruning as soon as flowers start to pale or wilt in dry weather to prevent fungal infections. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to do this,' she advises.

There are lots of essential pruning tools you can use for deadheading, but because mums have smaller, soft stems, micro-tip pruning snips (like these from Walmart) may be the easiest to work with.

2. Water Mums at the Base

Although temps are cooler in October than in summer, it's important to still keep on top of watering where there are dry spells. Ideally, you should water your mums when your soil moisture meter (which you can pick up from Amazon) indicates the top inch or so has dried out.

'Mums like consistent moisture but not soggy soil. Water them regularly while they are still blooming, and keep watering during dry spells until the ground freezes, pouring water at the base of the plant in the early morning so it doesn't linger on the leaves. Once the ground freezes, suspend watering until spring,' Marina advises.

I find a watering can with a long narrow spout (like this from Amazon) is easier for chrysanthemums, as you can get to the base of the plant without wetting the foliage. This will help prevent fungal diseases, like powdery mildew.

You can also use your finger to feel the chrysanthemum soil, so you don't oversaturate the roots. Watering too often is a classic chrysanthemum mistake which can rot the roots and cause your plants to decline quickly.

3. Relocate Before Frost

Chrysanthemums tend to last until frost, as they're hardy across USDA zones 5-9. However, you can extend their display with some winter protection – the most effective being relocating them as fall flowers to grow indoors.

'Move cold-sensitive varieties of chrysanthemums indoors before the first frosts arrive. Check the plants for pests before bringing them inside,' Marina advises.

You can follow the same steps as preventing pests when moving houseplants back indoors, checking underneath foliage where pests like to hide. It's also best to keep them isolated from houseplants to prevent the spread of any pests or diseases.

Relocating your chrysanthemums indoors may give you a few more weeks of blooms, before they finish flowering. At this point, keep them in a dark, cool, frost-free place to overwinter, such as a garage. You can cut chrysanthemums back to 3-6 inches above the soil when doing this. In spring, after the risk of frost, acclimate them outdoors for another year of blooms.

'For hardy garden mums remaining outdoors, wait until the ground has cooled or begun to freeze, then apply a loose, airy mulch such as straw or pine needles around the base. This protects the shallow roots from freeze-thaw heaving,' Marina adds.

You can find fall mulching materials in the yard for free, or pick up Lowe's brown mulch, to winterize your chrysanthemums.

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You can do so many things with chrysanthemums in fall to elevate your display, including pairing them with other fall flowers for pots. Our guide to secret design tricks to make mums look more expensive has more inspiration to explore.

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We have officially entered fall, but in many parts of the US, mild temperatures can continue for a few more weeks. And while some summer plants are beginning to slow down, lantana is usually still putting on a rather remarkable show, covered in clusters of brilliantly colored flowers that seem determined to keep summer going for just a little bit longer.

I particularly like the fiery varieties at this time of year. ‘Dallas Red’, typically grown in zones 8 to 11, produces vibrant clusters of orange and red flowers that provide a welcome pop of color as the rest of the yard begins its gradual transition into fall. After months of growth, however, even the toughest lantana can benefit from a little attention to keep it looking its best.

Knowing how to grow lantana and what to do with lantana in October will depend largely on where you live. In warmer regions, plants can have weeks or even months of flowering still to come, whereas gardeners farther north might already be thinking about the first frost and whether to overwinter container-grown plants. And, if you want to add more late-season color to your yard, its not too late, as live lantana plants are available from Walmart.

1. Watering

October can be deceptive when it comes to watering. Mornings might feel noticeably cooler in northerly regions, but a lantana sitting in full sun can still dry out remarkably quickly by the end of a warm day, particularly when growing in pots by the front door, for example.

Lantana is fairly drought-tolerant perennial once established, so plants growing in the ground shouldn't need constant attention.

As mentioned, however, container-grown lantana will need checking more regularly. Push a finger into the potting mix and water thoroughly if it feels dry, allowing excess water to escape from the drainage holes. As temperatures fall, growth will begin to slow and you can gradually reduce watering accordingly.

For easy watering, try this garden hose from Walmart.

2. Deadheading

A quick tidy of your lantana plants every week or so will keep plants looking much fresher.

Using clean pruners, snip off spent flower clusters just above a healthy pair of leaves. Try these Felco pruners from Walmart if you need a new pair.

There is another good reason to do this. Lantana camara is considered one of the most invasive species in the world. Birds can spread the seeds contained in its berries, so, by removing spent blooms before berries develop can help to limit unwanted self-seeding in your yard and beyond.

Deadheading isn't essential for all modern lantana varieties however. For example, 'New Gold' is totally sterile cultivar.

'New Gold' live lantana plants can be ordered via Amazon now.

3. Pruning

Lantana in October can be looking a little unruly. After an entire summer of growth, long stems can sprawl across paths, flop over the sides of containers or begin to muscle in on neighboring plants.

You can shorten particularly long or wayward stems, cutting just above a healthy pair of leaves to encourage a neater shape.

Keep this fairly restrained, however. October isn't the time for a dramatic renovation prune, particularly in regions like zone 4 where cooler weather is only a few weeks away.

4. Stop feeding

During spring and summer, a container-grown lantana can benefit from occasional feeding to support all that vigorous growth and flowering, but there comes a point when encouraging more growth does more harm than good. That point is now.

In warmer regions, you might continue to use feed for a few weeks yet, particularly if plants are still growing well. But, in cooler zones, I would stop feeding.

5. Think about Overwintering

What happens next depends very much on where you garden. In warmer regions (like zone 10), lantana can behave as a perennial, surviving winter outdoors and keeping much of its green growth.

In colder zones, however, the first hard frost will usually spell the end for plants left outside. This is no bad thing if you treat lantana as an annual, of course.

But, if your lantana is growing in a container, October is a good time to decide whether you want to overwinter it. Before bringing any plant indoors to a greenhouse, you want to give the leaves and stems a thorough inspection. Whiteflies and spider mites can easily go unnoticed outside, and the last thing you want is to introduce them to sheltered greenhouse.

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October doesn't have to signal the end of flowers in the yard. While lantana can keep warmer gardens filled with color well into fall, there are plenty of hardy perennials that are only just reaching their peak.

For another late-season job, see our guide to caring for asters in September, with simple tips to keep plants healthy and flowering for as long as possible.

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September is the time to prep Japanese maple for the colder months ahead. With the hot and sun baked days behind us, these plants need to recover their energy reserves quickly before heading into their dormant period.

Known for their spectacular fall color and intricately cut foliage, Japanese maple trees are a standout feature in gardens of every shape and size. Grown as bonsai trees, and as sculptural centerpieces in a border or planter, these deciduous, slow-growing trees have exquisite lines and a delicate charm that instantly elevate any outside space.

With shallow root systems and tender leaves, these versatile plants are susceptible to changeable temperatures and weather, so they do require a degree of care. This month essential tasks include judicious pruning, irrigation monitoring and prepping for cold weather (for which these large zip-up shrub protectors from Lowe's are very handy).

Prune Lightly To Maintain Shape

September is a poignant moment in the gardening year, when perennials, trees and shrubs have established, put on new growth and are settling in for the dormant period. Having nurtured them to this point, now is the time to nip Japanese maples into shape.

'Japanese maples are relatively problem free and require a very light hand in creating a graceful figure. The majority of the pruning done to maintain a graceful shape is done after the spring growth has hardened off. This period of time is the end of July into the beginning of October,' explains Daniel Schachner, horticulturist working in the Japanese Garden, Seiwa-En, at the Missouri Botanical Garden.

'During this period, any distracting or structurally problematic new growth can be controlled. The most important pruning tip is to prevent branches that will overlap or rub. A light hand is best.' Daniel also adds.

'If you have questions on pruning or are looking for a professional, the Aesthetic Pruner Association (APA) trains and certifies professionals on this type of pruning.'

A sharp, clean pair of Pro Bypass Secateurs such as these from Amazon, will make this job a joy. Plus if you love a dramatic and sculptural tree, be sure to consider Coral Bark Japanese Maple from Garden Goods Direct with it's contrasting red bark and lime foliage.

Protect From Fast Cooling Temperatures

Japanese maples often need protection in winter. Ice and snow particularly take their toll, with frozen soil preventing roots from absorbing essential nutrients and rot from setting in. The sheer weight of snow can also cause fragile branches to snap and stems to split, causing irreparable damage.

Knowing how to protect plants from frost, and taking action before cold, stormy weather arrives is a smart move, but options vary depending on the size of the tree plus where and how it is planted.

'If growing a Japanese maple in a pot in a climate that experiences freezing temperatures, it would be best to bury the pot in mulch to protect the root ball from freezing or they may be overwintered in an unheated garage,' he continues. Other preventative measures include lifting the plant off frozen ground using heavy duty rubber pot feet or a smart rolling plant caddy, both from Amazon.

For in-ground trees, winter tree care options can be limited. Frost cloths whether made from burlap, spun polysterene or breathable polypropylene fiber, all from Lowe's, can all be useful.

'Cold protection is tricky. If the tree is exposed to the wild in the winter and is small, you could do a wrapping in burlap during dormancy,' says Daniel. 'This is a difficult task, as the trees get larger and it usually is not feasible. Right plant, right place.'

Choosing a Japanese maple cultivar that suited to your climate is all important. Varieties with red leaves tend to cope with more sun in cooler climates, while those with green foliage prefer a shadier spot. 'Acer palmatum 'Emperor One' has also shown promise in cold tolerance in lower hardiness zones,' says Daniel. Find this Japanese maple variety at Lowe's.

Keep A Watch On Watering

Now is the ideal time to review your watering routine, whether you are nurturing an established Japanese maple or newly planted tree. Whether you are growing Japanese maple in a pot or planted in-ground , deep watering is invaluable and maybe not as often as you think.

'When it comes to watering, trees–in general–prefer a long, deep watering period on less frequent intervals,' says Daniel. 'Setting a sprinkler or irrigation system to run for a long period of time but only once a week or every other week is a safe choice.'

It is worth monitoring how much water is being distributed during each session, with Daniel's ideal being 2 to 4 inches. 'Testing your sprinkler system for the rate of application will help apply water properly. An irrigation audit is possible by setting out a container within the irrigated zone that can capture water to be measured.

'Most turf irrigation systems will water for a short period of time, but multiple applications per day. This can be problematic as the soil cannot properly drain moisture, and it encourages fungal pathogens in the root system. It is important to observe the soil around the tree; irrigation should only be applied if the soil is draining properly.'

If you don't wish to install an irrigation system, there are other watering solutions to try. We like the look of the Dew Right Tree Watering Donut from Garden Goods Direct or the Element Kink-Free Soaker Hose from Lowe's.

Time To Plant New Trees

September marks a short window for planting Japanese maples in the ground. With cooling air temperatures, a mellowing sun and still-warm soil, conditions are perfect for a tree's root system to settle before wintry weather kicks in.

'If you are planting a maple in the ground, early spring and mid-fall, typically in September and early October are the best times,' says Daniel. 'However, if planting a small tree, it can be done any time in the growing season with success if water is applied properly.'

Soil preparation for good drainage, is all important, and can vary depending on soil type. Loosen clay by mixing in topsoil, well aged compost or pine bark or bolster sandy soil's water retention with well rotted compost. Also, be sure to break up heavily compacted soil. This sturdy garden digging fork or Spear Head Spade, both Amazon, will easily handle the task.

Plant the tree so the graft line is above the surface and in a hole that is slightly shallower than the tree's root ball. This will discourage water from pooling around the main stem and to drain efficiently.

Top Up Mulch

This month, prior to leaf fall, is the perfect time to top up a tree's mulch layer. 'Mulch keeps soil temperature lower and helps retain moisture. When applied to an appropriate depth, it develops a fungal mat that helps to suppress weeds and break down the mulch for nutrient use in the tree,' explains Daniel.

While a mulch depth of around 4 in( 20cm) is ideal, a shallower depth will still aid plant growth and limit weed growth.

'It is important when applying mulch to any tree that the mulch must not be touching the trunk and bark of the tree. Any area above the basal flare, where the roots meet the trunk, does not handle the persistent moisture that the mulch retains and can lead to the death of the cambial layer and therefore the tree,' Daniel adds.

Organic mulch options can include homemade compost, grass clippings or fallen leaves but bought-in products such as Cleanstraw Pine Needles from Trees.comand Pine Bark Mulch Nuggets from Target will create a professional and polished finish.

What To Shop

One of the best trees for fall color, Japanese maples are just the start of a cool season garden filled with impact. Take a look at these native alternatives trees to expand your collection, and snap up some of these plants for pots in September for winter color.

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Cranesbills or hardy geraniums (not to be mistaken with pelargoniums) have a long blooming period, often lasting into fall until the first frost. In September, they start to slow down, are past their peak display, and begin preparing for fall and winter – but, they do need a little help.

If you have hardy geraniums in your yard, you'll know they can spread fast and bloom profusely, but they're fairly low-maintenance. Come September, it's important to give them a bit of a tidy up. You should remove any damaged and diseased plant matter (with something like these sharp Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon), divide overcrowded plants, and adjust your watering regime according to the seasonal shift.

As a hardy perennial (USDA zones 4-8), fall care is all about prepping these cottage garden staples for winter so they make a reliable return next spring. Here, with the help of garden pros, I talk through three key tasks to do this month.

1. Remove Disease and Damage

The first thing to do is tidy up your geraniums to remove anything damaged or diseased. This will strengthen these plants and ensure no diseases overwinter to re-emerge in spring and potentially spread elsewhere in your garden.

'You want to remove any brown or damaged leaves or any stems that have been damaged. If your geranium still looks healthy and it still has full color, then leave it alone. Cutting it back to encourage fresh growth is usually more useful right after its main flowering period than this late in the season,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck.

As Lindsey notes, heavy pruning should be avoided. It can encourage soft new growth that is vulnerable to frost damage, so it's best to stick to light pruning this month.

Hot and humid summer conditions can cause a few problems like bacterial leaf spot, powdery mildew. If you spot these, use essential pruning tools like the Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's to remove infected plant material.

'Diseased, decaying material needs to go, and when removed, that should not go in your compost because it will just transfer that to your compost. It needs to be bagged and trashed. Healthy foliage and stems just need to be left alone. Some hardy geraniums have a fall bloom, so you want to make sure that you're not doing a full clean-up of your area until they're done,' Lindsey advises.

2. Divide Hardy Geraniums

With hardy geraniums growing so quickly (they're an excellent choice of fast-growing groundcover), they can become overcrowded in time. Every few years, it's a good idea to divide these plants to keep them productive. You'll also end up with new clumps to plant elsewhere in the garden.

'These plants respond well to division in fall (best divided every 3-5 years). Make sure each new division has healthy growth points and some roots, keep the root collar level with the ground, and prepare planting holes matching the root system size,' advises Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

September (before hard fall frosts) is a good time to divide hardy geraniums, as you want the ground to be workable for lifting and replanting.

You can use a garden trowel (like this from Burpee) or a hori hori knife (like this from Amazon) to cleanly cut and separate the clumps.

3. Water During Dry Spells

Hardy geraniums are considered fairly drought-tolerant once established and are susceptible to issues of root rot and oversaturated soil.

'In September, as temperatures drop and evaporation slows, reduce the watering schedule to prevent soggy soil and root rot before the plant enters winter dormancy,' Marina advises.

However, if there are any late-summer heatwaves or prolonged periods of drought in September, give your hardy geraniums a soaking.

Using a soil moisture meter (I like this one from Amazon), check the soil before watering if you're unsure. Ideally, you should allow the top 1-2 inches dry out before watering again.

What to Shop

Before frost, it can be a good idea to lightly mulch your hardy geraniums. There are plenty of fall mulching materials you can use, including fallen leaves, wood chips, and grass clippings. This will provide some insulation during particularly icy periods.

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Black-eyed Susan, or rudbeckia, is one of the most cheerful yellow blooms to grow. When may other summer perennials fade, it continues to put on a display into fall. But, by mid-September your Black-eyed Susans may be starting to look a little tired and worse for wear – that's when it's time to give them a bit of attention.

Black-eyed Susans are hardy perennials across USDA zones 3-9, but require some post-summer care to prepare for frosts and make it through winter unscathed. Now is a good time to collect seeds and sow them for brand new plants, though you also want to ensure you leave some seedheads for wildlife to enjoy. Likewise, you can divide your rudbeckia now to reinvigorate your plants and grow more elsewhere in the garden.

Ultimately, what to do with black-eyed Susans in September is all to do with a bit of tidy up at the end of its flowering season to ensure it comes back better and stronger next year. So, with your Felco F2 pruning shears from Lowe's in one hand, here's what the garden experts recommend.

1. Collect Seeds

September is a good time to start harvesting black-eyed Susan seeds if the flowers have produced seedheads. You may find it has a few remaining flowers, in which case you may want to wait until October to collect seeds.

'You want to wait until the petals have fallen off and the central cone is brown, crispy, and completely dry,' says Lindsey Chastain, homesteader and founder at The Waddle and Cluck. This indicates the seeds have ripened.

'Cut off the heads and place them in a brown paper bag to allow them to keep drying,' Lindsey continues.

You should use clean and sharp essential pruning tools for this, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears on Amazon.

'Once dry, you can use your hands to shake the heads and loosen the seeds. Store them somewhere dry and cool. I usually just keep mine on a shelf in the garage,' Lindsey explains.

To store seeds correctly, use a sealed seed envelope (you can pick up DIY ones from Walmart) or seed tin (like this green one rom Amazon). This will keep moisture out and ensure the seeds stay viable for planting.

2. Leave Some Seedheads for Wildlife

The best plants for seedheads not only bring architectural value to the fall and winter landscape, they also help feed birds in winter (as well as other wildlife, like squirrels) where other natural food sources are scarce.

For this reason, Lindsey recommends leaving some seedheads for wildlife to enjoy.

'After the seedheads completely dry out, the seeds tend to fall to the ground. The birds, squirrels, and chipmunks will come and eat them, which gives them food later in the season,' she explains.

In particular, American Goldfinches and House Finches are the primary birds that eat black-eyed Susan seeds.

Growing other native plants that feed birds in winter also provides a food source for wildlife. This includes chokeberry (which you can find at Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees) and coneflowers (you can find coneflower seeds at Botanical Interests).

3. Sow New Seeds

If you're wondering when to plant black-eyed Susan seeds, September is a great time to directly sow the seeds outdoors.

You can use the seeds you harvested or pick up rudbeckia seeds from True Leaf Market, and use your seed sowing kit to start growing a brand new plant from scratch.

'You can go ahead and sow them outdoors this month because fall and winter provides the cold stratification they need to germinate,' Lindsey explains.

If sowing in fall, it's best to do so on prepared ground with a well-draining, nutrient rich compost. Thinly scatter the seeds on the surface and don't bury them. Rudbeckia seeds need light to germinate. Do this before frost, when the ground is still workable.

Alternatively, you can sow seeds indoors in late winter or early spring, harden off seedlings after the risk of frost has passed, and transplant them.

This seed sowing tray from Amazon makes transplanting easy, thanks to the integrated lifting handle to remove the seedlings without disturbing roots.

4. Remove Any Diseased Plants

One of the things to clear from the yard in September before frost is diseased plants to prevent spreading. For Lindsey, black-eyed Susan is one of the most important to check.

'My black-eyed Susans are chaos gardened among other blooms, so at the end of the flowering season I always go through and remove anything diseased and dead,' Lindsey describes.

Doing so will protect your planting from overwintering diseases like powdery mildew, ensuring next year's display comes back strong and healthy.

You can use various tools to remove such plants, including this transplanting trowel from Amazon.

Anything that is dead but not diseased can be placed in your compost bin. However, there isn't a need to cut back black-eyed Susan until early spring if you would like to leave seedheads for wildlife and winter interest.

5. Divide Plants

If you want more black-eyed Susans to fill your borders and flower beds, you can divide these plants. There are two opportunities to do so: spring or fall.

'You can divide black-eyed Susans either as they enter dormancy in the fall or as they emerge from it in the spring,' says Nastya Vasylchyshyna, plant expert at Botan App.

'Divide them every few years, depending on their growth rate. To do this, simply dig up the plant, preferably digging a little away from the stems to preserve as many roots as possible. Then, use the edge of a shovel to divide it into 2-4 sections, depending on the size of the clump, and replant them in new locations,' she advises.

Dividing perennials like this every few years helps keep plants productive and reduces overcrowding. As Nastya notes, you can use a shovel or you can pick up a hori hori knife from Amazon for a more specialist tool to make clean cuts when dividing plants.

When you have replanted the new clumps of your rudbeckia, ensure to water well to help the roots settle and establish.

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As we move later into fall, it will be important to winterize black-eyed Susans to ensure they survive the coldest conditions and re-emerge in spring with growth. This includes mulching around the base of the plant to provide insulation for plant roots. Luckily, there are plenty of free fall mulching materials you can gather from your yard.

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September is a turning point for agapanthus. After months of producing its spectacular globes of blue, purple, or white flowers, this sun-loving perennial is beginning to wind down for the season. But don't put away your gardening gloves just yet.

A little attention now can help agapanthus transition into fall and winter safely – and set the stage for healthy growth and abundant flowers next year. Whether you're familiar with the different agapanthus varieties or are learning to grow agapanthus for the first time, September is an important month to get your plants ready for the months ahead.

What you need to do in September depends largely on where you garden and which type of agapanthus you grow. In warmer parts of the US, plants may remain actively growing well into fall, while gardeners in colder USDA Hardiness Zones will need to start thinking about frost and winter protection. Here are the agapanthus jobs worth tackling this month.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers

If your agapanthus has finished blooming, September is a good time to remove faded flower stalks. To deadhead agapanthus, use clean, sharp bypass pruners and cut each spent flower stem back to the base of the plant. Removing faded stems keeps the plant looking tidy and prevents it from putting unnecessary energy into seed production.

For this job, a lightweight pair of bypass pruners is all you need. The Fiskars 5/8-Inch Bypass Pruner, available at Amazon, is a practical choice for making clean cuts through green stems. Another option is the Fiskars 8-Inch Bypass Pruner, available at Walmart, which has a 5/8-inch cutting capacity.

However, you don't have to remove every spent flowerhead. The dried seedheads can add attractive structure to a fall garden, particularly when backlit by low autumn sunshine. If you enjoy the architectural look of agapanthus seedheads, leave a few in place and remove the rest.

2. Keep Watering – but Adjust Your Routine

Don't assume cooler September temperatures mean your agapanthus no longer needs water. If you're wondering how often to water agapanthus, it depends on your climate, rainfall, and whether the plant is in the ground or a container.

Container-grown plants can dry out quickly, particularly during a warm, dry fall. Check the soil regularly and water deeply when the top few inches have dried out, making sure excess water can drain freely. For controlled watering, the Ames 7-Pattern Garden Hose Nozzle Sprayer, available at The Home Depot, offers adjustable spray settings. For smaller pots, the Fiskars Indoor and More Watering Can, available at Walmart, makes precise watering easy.

Avoid keeping the soil constantly soggy. Agapanthus prefers well-drained soil, and excess moisture around the roots can become problematic as temperatures fall.

Gardeners in hot, dry regions may need to continue watering regularly, while those in cooler or wetter areas can gradually reduce the frequency.

3. Don't Cut Back Healthy Foliage Too Early

One of the easiest mistakes to make with agapanthus in fall is cutting the foliage down simply because flowering has finished. Instead, let the leaves continue to grow for as long as they remain green and healthy. Those leaves are still capturing energy that the plant can store in its roots for the following growing season. If you need to remove dead or damaged foliage later, a pair of Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruning Shears from Home Depot can make the job easier.

If you grow a deciduous variety, the foliage will naturally yellow and die back as temperatures fall. Once it has completely died back, you can remove it. Evergreen types retain their foliage and generally shouldn't be cut to the ground in fall.

4. Know Your USDA Hardiness Zone

September is an ideal time to check your agapanthus's cold hardiness before the first frost arrives. Agapanthus varies considerably in its tolerance of cold. Some varieties can survive winters in relatively mild climates, while others need significant protection – or are best grown in containers that can be moved indoors.

Your USDA Hardiness Zone is an important starting point, but it's also worth checking the specific hardiness information for your cultivar. If you garden in a colder zone, don't wait until the first freeze is forecast to decide what you're going to do. September is the time to make a winter-protection plan.

5. Start Preparing Container Plants for Winter

One of the advantages of growing agapanthus in containers is that you can move them to a more protected location when temperatures drop. If you need to winterize agapanthus because your variety isn't reliably hardy in your area, identify a suitable winter location now. Depending on your climate and the plant's hardiness, this could be a cool garage, greenhouse, porch, or another protected space. Don't move plants into a warm, dark room for the entire winter. A cool, bright location is generally preferable, particularly for evergreen types.

Before moving a container, check it for pests and disease, remove dead foliage, and make sure the pot has adequate drainage. Miracle-Gro Indoor Potting Mix from Amazon can be useful if a container needs fresh potting mix before being moved indoors. If the pot needs better drainage, Miracle-Gro Potting Mix is another practical container-gardening staple to have on hand when preparing plants for winter.

6. Protect Plants in Colder Climates

If your agapanthus is growing in the ground and you're in an area where winter temperatures regularly fall below its recommended hardiness range, September is the month to prepare to protect plants from frost. A layer of organic mulch around the plant can help insulate the roots when temperatures fall. Compost, shredded bark, or leaf mold are useful options. Vigoro Premium Wood Mulch from Home Depot is one option for creating a protective layer around the root zone.

Avoid burying the crown under a thick layer of wet material, however. Agapanthus needs good drainage, and prolonged cold and moisture can encourage rot. In particularly cold areas, gardeners may choose to grow less-hardy agapanthus in containers so they can be moved to shelter before winter.

7. Hold Off on Dividing Your Agapanthus

September can feel like a natural time to tackle overcrowded perennials, but resist the urge to divide plants now. Agapanthus generally benefits from being left undisturbed, and division is usually best carried out in spring as new growth begins. There's also no need to divide a healthy, flowering clump simply because it looks crowded. Agapanthus can produce impressive displays when grown as substantial clumps.

If your plant has completely filled its container, however, it may eventually need repotting. Choose a container only slightly larger than the existing one rather than dramatically increasing the pot size. A Self-Watering Planter from West Elm can be a practical choice when moving an established agapanthus into a slightly larger container.

September isn't about giving agapanthus a drastic haircut. Instead, think of it as a transition month: tidy the plant where necessary, keep the roots healthy, and prepare for the conditions your local winter is likely to bring.

Get those basics right now, and your agapanthus will have a much better chance of returning next year ready to produce the dramatic, globe-shaped blooms that make it such a standout in the summer garden.

September is make or break time for fuchsias. As the weather cools, and the threat of frost is nearing, it is crucial to know how to properly care for these charming plants and prepare them for the cold months ahead.

Loved and recognised instantly for their ornate, hanging flowers, fuchsias are one of the most versatile garden plants. Producing a dazzling array of summer blooms. From slender droplets to ornate ballerinas-like blooms, they can be found filling out garden borders, adorning hedges, trained into formal standards or found spilling from window boxes, hanging baskets and planters.

From the pale and blush tinged blooms of Fuchsia 'Annabel' through to the vivid two-toned Fuchsia 'DebRon's Black Cherry, it's well worth knowing how to care for fuchsia in the fall, so you can enjoy their fascinating blooms the following year. For your potted fuchsias, our top tip is to wrap horticultural fleece from Walmart around containers before the first frost.

Continue To Remove Spent Blooms

September can bring changeable weather conditions and, depending on your location, your fuchsia's may still be flowering profusely or halting and getting ready for dormancy.

As cut-and-come-again flowers, fuchsia's readily form new buds on the tips of their branches. Look carefully and, if present, remove spent flowers knowing that new blooms will take their place.

Deadheading fuchsias can be easily done with your fingers or using garden snips, such as these micro-tipped pair from Walmart. Just be sure to pinch off the green seed pods, located just behind the flower, as well as the fading bloom.

Ease Off Watering

Early fall is the time to ease off watering fuchsia to help prepare them for the dormant season ahead. Whether you are going to lift and store tender varieties or leave hardy fuchsia in situ, stopping regular watering now is recommended to avoid root rot.

'It isn’t necessary to water in-ground Fuchsia during the Winter months as there is generally enough moisture in the soil to provide enough hydration,' explains plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'You should start taper the watering once temperatures begin to fall below 50F,' she continues.

Tender varieties that have been lifted and stored may need the occasional watering, but more on this below. If you need help monitoring moisture levels opt for a hydrometer such as this from Walmart.

Ready Hardy Fuchsia For Fall

Hardy fuchsia, such as Fuchsia magellanica are recognised and loved for their dainty and slender blooms that dangle from upright stems. Cold tolerant, perennial shrubs these plants can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9, losing their golden or dark green foliage in fall before reshooting the following spring.

When September arrives these nostalgic plants need little preparation for dormancy, as Katie explains. 'Hardy Fuchsia can be kept in the ground over Winter,' explains Katie. 'Stop fertilizing in September to prevent tender new growth from emerging. Once the first frost hits in Fall, the foliage will naturally die back. Once this happens, you can prune the stems back 4-6” from the soil level.'

Sharp and clean bypass secateurs, such as these from Amazon are ideal for this task. Katie also suggests to, 'keep the plant's base intact and insulate the crown with mulch or leaves.' Miracle Gro's Organic mulch from Walmart is great for tucking in between the pruned stems.

Prep And Move Half Hardy Fuchsia Indoors

One of the best plants for hanging baskets and filling garden containers, half hardy or tender fuchsias make for a spectacular summer and early fall display.

With their mostly ruffled and ballerina style blooms inviting close inspection, raising these plants off the ground displays them to best effect, but it can present problems when cold weather arrives. Knowing how to overwinter fuchsias is key to enjoying these fuchsias again next season.

'It’s best to stop feeding container grown fuchsia in September to stop new growth from emerging,' advises Katie. 'Clean the base of the plant, any debris such as leaves and spent blooms. This will help prevent fungal diseases and rotting over Winter. Prune the stems back about ½ to 2/3 and remove all flower buds and remaining foliage to help force the plant into dormancy before bringing the plant indoors.'

Katie adds, 'Store in a cool, dry, dark location but make sure it doesn’t freeze. The ideal temperatures are 40-50F. Water the soil just once a month to keep the roots moist but be sure to not saturate or soak the soil.'

It's worth knowing that three-leaved fuchsia or Fuchsia triphylla, with it's slim, elongated flowers, will need extra warmth to survive through prolonged cold weather.

Move indoors and consider covering with garden fleece, available from Walmart for extra insulation.

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While summer flowering fuchsias maybe fading there are plenty of fall flowering perennials and fall flowering bulbs that can takeover and provide color and interest for months to come.

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Our yards have taken a beating over the summer with relentless high temperatures and scorching sun. But if there's one plant that can revive them, it has to be Mexican sunflower.

Known botanically as tithonia rotundifolia, this tall, branching annual glows bright with its many orange and red daisy-like flowers, well until the first frosts arrive. Sending out a succession of blooms, it's vibrant presence peps up tired borders and container alike all while attracting a range of pollinators seeking out energising nectar.

A true showstopper that is surprisingly easy to grow and care for, Mexican sunflower is one of a few late summer resilient plants that no yard should be without. Check your local garden center for plants this month, or you can find Mexican sunflower seeds at True Leaf Market and get ready to sow them next spring, after the final frost.

Why Mexican Sunflowers Will Revitalize Your Late Summer Yard

The definitive, late summer yard reviver, Mexican sunflower is a joy to behold. It's tall stands of cheery orange-red flowers re-energize tired, parched borders, and mix effortlessly with fast-fading summer blooms and sun-bleached grasses.

Native to Mexico and Central America, this flowering beauty loves heat, direct sun and absolutely thrives in poor soil. A low-maintenance drought tolerant plant, it can be grown in USDA Hardiness zones 2-11, although it is best treated as an annual in zones 7 and colder.

Producing many, successive blooms, often measuring 2 to 3 inches (5 - 7.5cm) across, tithonia rotundifolia is an important source of late season nectar for bees, butterflies and other hardworking pollinators.

Reaching heights of around 28-42'' (71-106cm), these tall, branching plants make a big and useful addition to the garden.

'Tithonia is excellent at the back of a mixed border, along a fence line, or in a loose row where it can act as an informal late-summer screen,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'Compact varieties like ‘Fiesta del Sol’ are better choices for containers, but any pot should have excellent drainage and heavy enough to support the plant.'

She also adds, 'tithonia is also a strong choice for cutting gardens, because the flowers are showy, pollinator-friendly, and useful in late-season arrangements,' continues Laura.

Try sowing Tithonia Goldfinger Seed from True Leaf Market for bloom laden branches and pair them with this 3D Garden Vase from Anthropologie for a bold centerpiece.

How To Grow Mexican Sunflower

Straightforward and undemanding to grow, this specialist pollinator plant is best sown undercover 6 to 8 weeks before the final frost. 'In most regions, the most dependable approach is to start fresh seed each spring after frost danger has passed or start seed indoors for earlier blooms,' says Laura. 'Mexican sunflower can self-seed where conditions allow, but gardeners should not rely on it as a guaranteed returner in colder climates,'

Thriving in a sunny spot with well drained soil, Mexican sunflower needs little watering once established and is ideal for xeriscaping. 'One of the surprising things about Tithonia is that it does not need rich soil to grow well,' explains Laura. 'Poor to average soil is often better, because too much fertility, especially nitrogen, can push leafy, leggy growth at the expense of flowers.'

A tall plant with a spread of 14-16'' (35-40cm), tithonia's brittle stems will benefit from support, especially when occupying an exposed position. Try grow-through grids, from Lowe's installed early in summer or opt for ring supports, also from Lowes that can easily fit around taller stems.

Alternatively, surround the plant with sturdy wooden stakes firmly knocked into the ground, such as these from Amazon, and using Walmart's natural jute twine, create a supportive cats cradle or mesh to contain the stems.

Make Mexican Sunflowers Bloom For Longer

Mexican sunflowers need minimal encouragement to keep producing their cheery blooms. 'Deadheading is the best way to keep Mexican sunflower blooming. Removing spent flowers encourages the plant to keep producing buds rather than putting its energy into seed,' says Laura.

These slender-nosed snips from Walmart make nipping off spent and fading flowerheads a quick task, but for tackling a large area of flowers you could use a sharp pair of hedge shears, such as these wavy-edged ones from Walmart. Aim to cut just above a leaf node as this will encourage healing and new flower buds to form.

Leaving some seedheads to fade and ripen naturally will not only provide garden birds and small mammals, such as chipmunks and squirrels, with a nutritious food source but it can also be handy for gardeners too.

'If gardeners leave a few late-season seedheads, they may be able to collect seed for the following year,' Laura explains. 'Just note that saved seed from hybrid or selected varieties may not produce plants identical to the parent, so fresh seed is the best route when you want consistent height, habit, and flower color.'

If you do want to try collecting your own seeds, why not use these nifty Seed Packet Envelopes from Walmart and gift them to friends.

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Extend your yard's floral display well into the cooler months with these best fall-blooming native plants and the pot plants to grow now for blooms through fall.

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Salvia is a late-summer garden favorite, bringing vibrant color to flower beds, borders, and containers just as many other perennials begin to fade.

In September, a few simple maintenance tasks can help keep plants flowering, encourage healthy growth, and prepare them for the colder months ahead. If you grow salvias, it’s worth knowing that different types of salvia can have very different care requirements, particularly when it comes to pruning and overwintering.

In my own garden, I grow Russian Sage, which you can buy on Trees.com, a trusted source for plants. But if you want a true salvia, I recommend the Snow Hill Wood Sage from Plant Addicts.

From deadheading spent blooms to taking cuttings, these are the salvia jobs worth adding to your September gardening checklist.

1. Keep Deadheading for More Blooms

If your salvia is still flowering, continue removing spent flower spikes, or deadhead salvia, regularly. Regular deadheading encourages the plant to put its energy into producing new flowers rather than setting seed, which can help extend the display well into fall.

For clean, precise cuts, use sharp pruners such as the Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruner or Scotts Precision Hand Pruner, both available on Amazon. Cut faded flower stalks back to just above a healthy set of leaves or a branching point, taking care not to damage new growth.

2. Give Container Salvias Some Attention

If you grow salvia in pots, plants can run short of nutrients toward the end of the growing season, particularly after months of flowering.

If they’re still actively growing and blooming, a light application of a balanced fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro All Purpose Plant Food or Jobe’s Organics All Purpose Fertilizer from Walmart, can provide a useful boost. Avoid heavy fertilizing late in the season, though. Encouraging lots of tender new growth as temperatures drop can leave container-grown salvias more vulnerable to cold damage.

3. Check for Pests and Disease

Take a few minutes to inspect your plants for common pests and problems such as aphids, powdery mildew, or other signs of stress. Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves and areas where foliage is crowded.

For minor pest infestations, insecticidal soap such as Bonide Insecticidal Soap can help control aphids and other soft-bodied insects, while Bonide Copper Fungicide can help manage certain fungal diseases. Remove badly affected leaves and improve air circulation where possible. Water at the base of the plant rather than over the foliage, especially as cooler, wetter weather arrives.

4. Don't Cut Salvia Back Too Early

It can be tempting to cut perennials back as soon as the first signs of fall appear, but there's no need to rush with salvia that's still healthy and flowering.

If you’re wondering when to prune salvia, leaving foliage and stems in place for longer allows the plant to continue photosynthesizing and can provide additional protection as temperatures begin to fall.

When the time comes, a pair of sharp Haus & Garten Premium Titanium Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon can make clean, precise cuts. Wait until flowering has finished and your particular variety is ready for its fall pruning.

5. Prepare Tender Salvias for Winter

Not all salvias have the same cold tolerance, so check the hardiness of your specific variety before deciding how to overwinter it. If you're wondering how to winterize salvia, tender types – including some popular ornamental salvias grown as annuals in colder parts of the US – may need to be moved indoors or into a protected space before the first frost.

Container plants are particularly easy to shelter. A lightweight frost protection cover, such as the Agfabric Plant Cover, can provide an extra layer of protection for plants that remain outdoors. If your salvia is hardy in your USDA Hardiness Zone, it may be able to remain outdoors with little intervention, although a layer of mulch around the base, such as Scotts Nature Scapes Color Enhanced Mulch from Lowe's, can help protect the roots from temperature fluctuations.

6. Take Cuttings for Next Year

September can be a good time to propagate salvia from cuttings, particularly if you have a plant you want to keep growing next season.

Take healthy, non-flowering shoots and root them in a well-draining propagation mix, such as Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Potting Mix. Keep the cuttings somewhere warm and bright but protected from extreme temperatures while they establish.

For gardeners in colder USDA Hardiness Zones, overwintering young plants under cover can be an easy way to build up your collection without buying new plants each spring.

September isn’t the time to give up on your salvias. Keep deadheading, watch for pests and disease, and protect tender varieties before the first frost. Most importantly, know your salvia’s hardiness and your USDA Hardiness Zone. Tailor your fall care to your climate, and you’ll give your plants the best chance of returning next year.

Whether you're planning a fall porch display of pots, or want your garden chrysanthemums to look their best, there are a few things you can do this month and next to boost your blooms.

Loved by many, this so-called queen of fall flowers comes into its own this season. Tough and resilient, with an array of vibrant colors and petal shapes, mums love the crisper, shorter days. Yet, they will still need some attention to look their best.

If you know how to grow chrysanthemums, or care for the potted varieties, like this beautiful Matchsticks chrysanthemum plant from Burpee, they will reward you with a spectacular show. Here's what gardening experts suggest to keep mums looking fabulous this fall.

1. Allow Plenty of Sunshine

When planning your outdoor fall décor ideas, carefully consider where to place your pots, so they can thrive – and be enjoyed. Chrysanthemums require at least six hours of sunshine per day to flourish, whether they are planted in the ground or in containers.

'If you're planting perennial mums, choose a location with good air circulation and plenty of autumn sunshine,' says horticulturalist, Sharon Murphy, founder, Gardening with Sharon.

'Avoid crowded areas where foliage stays damp for long periods because that is a perfect breeding ground for disease.

'Place nursery-grown potted chrysanthemums in sunny areas of a deck, patio, or porch where they will get their fill of sunshine.'

This gorgeous Garden Mums Quart Pot offer from Plant Addicts allows you to mix and match colors and cultivars to create a distinct display.

2. Water Plants Deeply

Unless you have had a significant amount of rainfall in your region, it's highly likely your mums will need watering. In most areas the ground will still be dry and pots will certainly need to be checked regularly for moisture levels.

'Keep watering your mums deeply once or twice a week for as as long as the flowers are still blooming,' says Jessica Hall, co-founder, Harmony Harvest Farm. 'Maintaining consistent moisture will prevent drought stress. Mums are very, very thirsty but they don't like wet feet, so water when the top two inches of soil is dry.'

This steel watering can from Ace Hardware has a retro style and holds two gallons.

Sharon explains that a good soaking less often is much better than frequent little sprinkles, especially for in-the-ground mums.

'Chrysanthemums have fairly shallow root systems, and flowering plants can dry out surprisingly quickly,' says Sharon. 'Soaking encourages the roots to grow deeper and helps prevent the plant from drying out between waterings.

'Although, avoid spilling water over the foliage and flowers to prevent disease development.'

Like other plants, potted chrysanthemums tend to dry out much faster than those growing in the ground. 'This is because their roots may be pot bound and are confined to a relatively small amount of soil,' adds Sharon. 'Give them a thorough drink of water as soon as you get them home but don't let containers sit in water-soaked drip trays.'

Tim Pollak, Manager, Plant Production at Chicago Botanic Garden points out that if plants are allowed to dry out, the flowers and future buds may not fully recover.

'Don't rely on rain, as the plants are full, and create an umbrella effect over the root zones,' says Tim. 'Water thoroughly as often as required.

'If planting in containers, use a larger container than the plants came in. This will help with keeping them moist and preventing them from drying quickly.

'Always make sure the containers have drain holes before planting, as this will prevent them from staying too wet and developing root diseases.'

If you're yet to buy your potted mums, this Mammoth Daisy Red from Burpee has bold red petals and bright yellow stamens for a vibrant show.

3. Feed Mindfully

Mums planted in flower beds may require a light feed this month, but go easy and choose a low nitrogen formula.

'You can feed the plants once or twice during the fall,' says Tim. 'If planting in the ground, this will also promote root growth and help them potentially survive through the winter.'

'Switching your fertilizer to a bloom booster formulation with lower nitrogen and higher phosphorus and potassium will encourage flower blooming on your mums rather than vegetative growth,' says Jessica.

This flower fertilizer from Lowe's should do the trick. However, stop feeding them as soon your mums start flowering.

'Too much nitrogen late in the season can encourage soft, leafy growth when what we really want is flowers,' says Sharon. 'Avoid heavy feeding in late summer and fall. Also, flowering potted Chrysanthemums do not require additional fertilizer.'

4. Deadhead and Disbud

Deadheading chrysanthemums may reveal unopened buds below, and will keep the plant tidy. So whichever varieties you're growing, it's worth removing spent flowers.

'In the garden, simply snip off faded flower heads just above a healthy set of leaves or branching point,' says Sharon. 'Don't worry about removing every single faded bloom in a large stand of plants, because a quick tidy-up every few days is enough to keep everything looking fresh.

'There's no need to be overly aggressive either; you're removing the finished flowers, not reshaping the plant.'

'If you want larger, show-quality flowers, you can also 'disbud' by removing the side buds so the central bloom grows larger,' adds Jessica.

These Fiskars Micro-Tip Snips from Ace Hardware have soft grip handles for comfort and stainless steel blades for clean cuts.

'Potted mums bloom once and then they are done,' says Tim. 'Though removing older faded flowers can keep the plants looking good through the fall.'

5. Protect Your Mums From Frost

Chrysanthemums like cooler weather conditions, but the flowers are much more vulnerable to frost than the plant itself. So keep an eye on the forecast and have a frost cloth at the ready.

'A light frost doesn't necessarily mean the end of your perennial chrysanthemums,' says Sharon. 'Protecting the plants from repeated frosts can buy you considerably more flowering time.'

'When a frost warning is issued, cover in-the-ground plants with a lightweight frost cloth, old sheet, or similar breathable material resting on stakes or supports before temperatures drop.'

These 36" bamboo stakes from Ace Hardware are a good height for most mums.

'The covering can be removed once temperatures rise above freezing the following morning,' says Sharon.

'Potted chrysanthemums do best when they are protected from all extremes; hot, cold, dry, or wet weather. Gather them into a sheltered spot when there's a frost warning and return them to their sunny spot once the weather warms up the next day.

'As the weather becomes consistently cold, the nursery-grown container eventually wears down, flowers less, and finishes, and that's perfectly normal.'

6. Buy Potted Plants in Bud

To extend a potted Chrysanthemum display, it's best to buy your plants before they have had a chance to fully bloom.

'Chrysanthemums are usually hardy in zones 5-9, so in colder zones, the nursery-grown pots are definitely the mode of choice,' says Sharon. 'Choose plants with mostly unopened buds amongst a few open flowers and remove the finished flowers to encourage unopened buds to release.'

Tim also suggests looking for plants that are in bud, and just beginning to show flower color to get the longest bloom period out of potted mums.

'At this point, the plants are already fully grown and won’t get any larger,' says Tim. 'Most stores bring fresh plants every week, so try to purchase the freshest plants, and stay away from the older or discounted plants.'

Shop Outdoor Planters

With chrysanthemums, the choice of colors and cultivars is vast. From small daisy-like flowers to big blousy blooms, in soft or strong shades, this plant allows you to flex your creativity for a fabulous fall display.

'Chrysanthemums don't ask for much, but they reward a little attention with weeks of colour when many other garden plants are calling it quits,' says Sharon. 'Keep the roots evenly moist, deadhead regularly, give them plenty of sun, and protect the flowers when frost threatens.

'With a little care, you can keep that burst of autumn colour going long after the first cool nights arrive.'

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September is a transition month for peace lilies across the United States. In some parts of the country, summer heat is still going strong; elsewhere, cooler nights are already signaling the arrival of fall. Indoors, changes in daylight, air conditioning and eventually home heating can all affect how your peace lily grows.

I have the Peace Lily Plant from Trees.com (formerly Fast-Growing Trees) in my own home, and September is a good reminder that even an easy-care houseplant benefits from a few seasonal adjustments. Understanding the basics of peace lily care can help keep the plant healthy as it moves from summer into fall, whether it spends the warmer months on a shaded porch or grows indoors year-round.

1. Move Your Peace Lily to the Right Light

As the days grow shorter, your peace lily may need a brighter spot than it did in the height of summer. When deciding where to place a peace lily, look for bright, indirect light near an east- or north-facing window. A few feet from a bright south- or west-facing window can also work, provided the plant is protected from intense direct afternoon sun.

If you've kept your peace lily outdoors for the summer, don't put it straight into full sun. Peace lilies prefer filtered or dappled light, and sudden exposure to strong sunlight can scorch their leaves. A plant stand can also help you position your peace lily at the right height and move it closer to a brighter window as the seasons change. The IKEA OLIVBLAD plant stand is one practical option; its tiered design makes it easy to display plants at different heights.

2. Bring Outdoor Peace Lilies Inside

For gardeners who move houseplants outdoors during the warmer months, September is an important month to start planning the move indoors. The timing depends heavily on where you live. In northern states and higher elevations, cool nights may arrive early. In warmer parts of the South and Southwest, outdoor conditions may remain suitable much longer.

Before bringing a peace lily indoors, check the leaves, stems and soil for insects. Look underneath leaves for pests or webbing, and remove any dead or damaged foliage. Rinse the plant gently if necessary. If you're looking for a peace lily to add to your indoor collection, the Costa Farms Spathiphyllum Peace Lily from The Home Depot is one option.

Keep the plant separate from other houseplants for several days if you've had pest problems. If you find insects or mites, a product such as BioAdvanced Houseplant Insect & Mite Control from Amazon can help address common pest problems when used as directed.

3. Adjust Watering as Winter Approaches

Don't automatically continue your summer watering schedule throughout September. If temperatures are falling and daylight is decreasing, your peace lily may use water more slowly. On the other hand, a plant in a warm, air-conditioned home may still dry out quickly. If you're wondering how to water a peace lily, the best approach is to check the potting mix rather than watering on a fixed schedule.

A simple XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon can help you check moisture levels below the surface, while a Haws Indoor Plastic Watering Can makes it easier to water slowly and evenly when the plant needs a drink. When the upper portion of the potting mix feels slightly dry, water thoroughly and allow excess water to drain from the pot. Avoid allowing the plant to sit in a saucer of standing water. Consistently soggy soil can contribute to root problems.

4. Start Preparing for Indoor Heating

In northern states and colder regions, September is also the time to think ahead to the heating season. Forced-air heating can make indoor air considerably drier, which may cause peace lily leaves to develop brown edges or tips. Before the furnace starts running regularly, consider moving the plant away from heat vents, fireplaces and radiators.

A Levoit Classic 300S Ultrasonic Humidifier from Amazon can help add moisture to the air and maintain a more comfortable environment for tropical houseplants during the dry winter months.

5. Ease Back on Fertilizer

A peace lily that's actively producing new leaves or flowers may still benefit from fertilizer in early September. If you're looking for a peace lily fertilizer, choose a balanced, water-soluble formula and follow the product label rather than automatically increasing the amount. Options such as Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Espoma Organic Indoor! Plant Food from Amazon can be convenient choices for feeding houseplants.

As growth slows later in fall, however, there's usually less need to fertilize frequently. Continuing heavy feeding when the plant isn't actively growing can result in excess salts accumulating in the potting mix. Follow the fertilizer label and reduce feeding as the plant's growth naturally slows. A healthy peace lily doesn't need to be pushed into constant growth.

6. Clean Those Big Leaves

September is an excellent time to give your peace lily a foliage makeover. Its broad leaves collect dust, pollen and other debris, especially after spending the summer near an open window or outdoors. Wipe the leaves gently with a clean, damp cloth.

A microfiber cleaning cloth from Amazon works well for lifting dust without being rough on the foliage, while an amber glass plant mister can be useful for lightly dampening leaves before wiping them clean. This removes accumulated dust and gives the plant a fresher appearance as you bring it indoors for fall. Skip leaf-shine products, which aren't necessary and can leave unwanted residue on the foliage.

7. Check for Common Houseplant Pests

Before moving an outdoor peace lily inside, inspect it carefully for pests. Look for:

• Spider mites and fine webbing
• Mealybugs that resemble small white cottony spots
• Scale insects attached to stems or leaves
• Fungus gnats around damp potting soil
• Sticky residue or unexplained leaf damage
• Finding pests before the plant joins your indoor collection can save you a much bigger problem later

8. Prune Yellow or Damaged Leaves

September is a good time to tidy your peace lily before it settles into its fall growing routine. If you're wondering how to prune a peace lily, start by removing completely yellow, brown or badly damaged leaves with clean, sharp scissors. Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips from Amazon are useful for making precise cuts around stems and foliage, while Fiskars Steel Bypass Pruning Shears from The Home Depot are another option for thicker stems.

Cut the leaf stem near its base rather than simply trimming the damaged portion. You can also remove spent flowers once they have faded. This keeps the plant looking neat and can encourage it to focus on healthy foliage and new growth.

As summer comes to a close, help your peace lily transition smoothly into fall. Adjust watering as daylight decreases, provide bright, indirect light, and protect the plant from cold drafts and extreme temperatures.

If your peace lily spent the summer outdoors, inspect it for pests and bring it inside before chilly weather arrives. Keep it away from heating and cooling vents, clean dusty leaves, watch for pests, and reduce fertilizer as growth slows. If the plant is root-bound, this is also a good time to repot a peace lily before fall growth slows.

A little seasonal care now can help keep your peace lily healthy, lush and vibrant through the cooler months.

September might feel a little early to be thinking about Christmas, but if you want your Christmas cactus to put on a spectacular display this holiday season, now is the time to give it some attention.

Unlike a traditional desert cactus, the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera) is native to the tropical forests of Brazil, where it grows in humid conditions and bright, filtered light. While it spends the warmer months putting on leafy growth, the shorter days and cooler temperatures of fall provide an important signal that it’s time to start preparing to bloom. This makes September a surprisingly important month for Christmas cactus care.

A few simple changes to its care now can encourage it to set flower buds, giving you a much better chance of enjoying a plant covered in colorful blooms around the holidays.

1. Give Your Christmas Cactus Cooler Nights

One of the most important things your Christmas cactus needs in September is a change in temperature. As summer fades, cooler nights signal that it’s time to shift from leafy growth toward flower-bud formation. Aim for nighttime temperatures around 55–65°F to help encourage flowering.

When deciding where to place a Christmas cactus, choose a bright spot with plenty of indirect light that stays cooler at night. An unused bedroom or enclosed porch can work well. The AcuRite Indoor Digital Thermometer & Hygrometer from Walmart makes it easy to keep an eye on temperature and humidity.

Keep the plant away from heating vents, fireplaces, drafty doors, and cold windows, as sudden temperature changes can cause stress and bud drop. If you need to raise it closer to a window, the LÅNGNÄBB Plant stand from IKEA offers an easy, space-saving solution.

2. Start Cutting Back on Water

September is also the time to rethink your watering routine. As fall approaches, start cutting back slightly and let the top layer of soil dry between waterings. This helps encourage flowering without leaving the roots sitting in soggy soil.

When deciding how to water a Christmas cactus, don't follow a rigid schedule. Instead, check the soil first. If the top inch feels dry, it's time for a thorough drink; if it's still damp, wait a little longer. A slim-spouted Fiskars Indoor Watering Can, available on Amazon, makes it easy to direct water precisely into the pot, while a RainPoint Digital Plant Moisture Meter can take the guesswork out of checking the soil.

Christmas cactus isn't a desert plant and shouldn't be left bone dry. At the same time, consistently waterlogged soil can lead to root rot, so good drainage is essential.

3. Give It Bright Light During the Day

Your Christmas cactus still needs plenty of light in September, but bright, indirect light is preferable to harsh, direct sunshine. An east- or north-facing window is ideal, while a brighter south- or west-facing window may need some protection from strong afternoon rays.

Light is particularly important now because your plant needs to experience the changing day length of fall. As September progresses, longer, uninterrupted periods of darkness help encourage flower-bud formation. If your home doesn't get enough natural light, a small Feit Electric LED Grow Light can provide supplemental illumination during the day without taking up much space.

Just be mindful of where you position it. A Christmas cactus sitting beside a lamp that's switched on late into the evening may not get the clear day-and-night signal it needs to flower. If you're looking for a more flexible option, a clip-on SANSI Grow Light can be positioned over the plant during daylight hours and switched off at night.

4. But Let the Nights Get Dark

The shortening days of September are an important part of your Christmas cactus's flowering process. As nights become longer, the plant gets the seasonal cue that winter is approaching.

You don't necessarily need to move your plant into a closet or create an elaborate blackout routine, but Christmas cactus in the dark should have a long, uninterrupted rest period each night to encourage buds. I recommend around 12–14 hours of darkness for several weeks, while keeping the plant in bright, indirect light during the day.

In most homes, simply keeping it away from bright artificial light late into the evening may be enough. If your space stays illuminated at night, a light-blocking curtain (such as this blackout option from Amazon) can help create a darker environment without moving the plant, particularly if it's sitting near a window.

5. Stop Fertilizing by the End of September

If you've been feeding your Christmas cactus regularly through spring and summer, September is the time to start winding down. In my personal experience, I recommend fertilizing during the active growing season, then easing off as fall approaches so the plant can shift its energy toward flowering rather than producing lots of new leafy growth.

If you still need to fertilize Christmas cactus before stopping for the season, choose a fertilizer formulated for cacti and succulents and follow the label directions carefully. The Espoma Organic Cactus! Plant Food is a gentle option for indoor cacti, while the Ferti-lome Houseplant Hero Cactus & Succulent Plant Food, available at Lowe's, is another option designed specifically for these plants.

By the end of September, stop feeding and let your Christmas cactus settle into its pre-flowering period. It may feel counterintuitive to withhold fertilizer when you're hoping for more flowers, but the seasonal shift in light, temperature, watering, and feeding is precisely what helps signal that it's time to switch from growing to blooming.

6. Don't Move It Once Buds Appear

Once those tiny flower buds finally appear, resist the temptation to move your plant around the house. If you're wondering why buds are falling off your Christmas cactus, sudden changes in temperature, light, or watering could be to blame. When buds begin to form, return your Christmas cactus to warmer conditions of around 65–69°F and keep its environment as consistent as possible.

Keep the plant in the same bright, indirect light and away from cold drafts, heating vents, fireplaces, and other sources of temperature fluctuations. It’s also best to avoid rotating or repotting it once buds have formed, as even small changes can disturb developing buds.

If you want to show off your Christmas cactus when it begins flowering, choose its eventual holiday position carefully and leave it there. With steady temperatures, consistent light, and the right watering routine, you’ll give those buds the best chance of developing into the colorful blooms you’ve been waiting for.

The secret to a spectacular Christmas cactus isn't what you do once the first flowers appear – it's how you care for it in the weeks beforehand. September is the time to give your plant the seasonal cues it needs: cooler nights, slightly less water, bright daytime light, longer periods of darkness, and a pause from fertilizer.

Get those conditions right now, and your Christmas cactus can quietly prepare for its big moment. When those first colorful blooms finally unfurl around the holidays, that little bit of extra attention in September will have been well worth it.

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My coneflowers (Echinacea) are starting to retire for the season, looking a little weathered and fading in color. But their display is far from over. In fall, they're one of the best plants for sculptural seed heads. There are a few tasks to tick off in September for a little late-summer TLC.

Growing coneflowers rewards in more ways than one. As a tough, hardy perennial, it returns each year with bright pink, purple, and even yellow blooms (see this coneflower mix of colors at Trees.com, formerly Fast Growing Trees). In fall, it turns into a vital food source for birds and offers interest where other plants fade away. In September, towards the end of their flowering cycle, coneflower care is about selectively deadheading, collecting seeds, and most importantly, monitoring for pests and disease in the wet conditions of fall.

The good news is it doesn't take long to give your coneflowers some attention this month before harsher fall conditions settle in. Here's exactly what to do with coneflowers in September.

1. Deadhead Selectively

With lingering warmer temps in September, there is still time to deadhead coneflowers and encourage a final few flowers. However, crucially, you shouldn't be overzealous with your pruning shears and remove all of its spent blooms.

With echinacea slowing down for fall, a mass flush of blooms is unlikely. You don't want to unintentionally get rid of all the seed heads, leaving you with nothing for fall and winter.

Coneflowers are excellent flowers for seed heads. They provide architectural interest for your fall garden and provide a natural way to feed birds in fall and winter, especially goldfinches.

If you are planning to remove a few more spent blooms, use sharp bypass pruning shears (like this Fiskars pair from Amazon) and cut down to the first pair of healthy green leaves.

2. Collect Seeds

In fall, you can collect coneflower seeds to plant next year and get new plants for free. They may be ready to collect in September, or you may need to wait a little longer.

To know if coneflower seeds are ready for collecting, look for when the central cone has turned dark brown and hard. The petals should have fallen off completely, too. Harvesting seeds too early can impact their viability, so it's best to let them ripen first.

To collect the seeds, cut off the head (these gardening snips from Lowe's should work well) and shake it into a paper bag. Store your seeds somewhere cool, dark, and dry to keep them viable for planting in spring.

3. Reduce Watering

Coneflowers are drought-tolerant plants once established, so there isn't a need to water them regularly as we enter wetter months. In fact, overly wet soil can cause root rot.

Really, you should only need to give your coneflowers a deep watering in September if it's unusually dry or there's a late-summer heatwave. Using this soil moisture meter from Amazon, you can monitor when the top few inches have dried out.

Ensuring the soil is well-draining will also help keep your coneflowers in good shape. If needed, loosen compacted soil with this hand rake from Amazon.

4. Don't Fertilize

While you can fertilize coneflowers through spring and summer to give them a boost of essential plant nutrients and support flowering, fertilizing can be problematic as we enter September.

As the plant slows down and focuses on preparing for winter dormancy, it's best to conserve its energy. Feeding your coneflowers now will only encourage new growth, which may not make it through fall frosts and ultimately weaken the plant.

Allowing your plant to rest will ensure its energy goes into putting on a beautiful display next summer.

5. Inspect for Disease

One of the biggest challenges in the fall garden is managing disease, as the mild temperatures and wetter weather can create the perfect environment for fungal diseases and fall garden pests.

Coneflowers are particularly susceptible to aster yellows (identifiable by deformed, green-yellow petals and curling yellow leaves), powdery mildew, and rosette mites (which cause fuzzy green tufts sprouting from the flower cone).

Monitoring for these pests and diseases, and dealing with them straight away, is the best way to stop the problem spreading in your yard.

Severely infected plants should be removed and disposed of to protect the rest of your garden – wearing these gardening gloves from Walmart and cleaning pruning tools will also reduce the risk of spreading.

What to Shop

Something else to do over the next month is to keep an eye on your local forecast for your fall frost dates. You may need to winterize your coneflowers by adding a layer of mulch for insulation and cutting them back as winter approaches.

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Nature's own fireworks, crotons shine bright with their striking multi-colored, paddle-shaped leaves. Dazzling in vivid shades of crimson, green, ochre and pink, these tropical rainforest natives of south-east Asia pep up bright and sunlit interiors with their bold patterning and glossy foliage.

One of the showiest and best indoor plants you can grow, crotons - botanically known as Codiaeum variegatum - reward endlessly for very little attention. Requiring stable, warm and humid conditions, these indoor plants can grow to between three and six feet tall, but are governed by the size of their container.

With many intriguing variations to consider, you can find croton cultivars with narrow, broad, oak-shaped and even curly corkscrew leaves. Take a look at Croton 'Mammy' available at Walmart. A great way to kick-start any houseplant collection, they also inspire the perfect interior decorating palette this fall.

Why You Will Fall For Crotons

There are many reasons to grow crotons, but visual impact and flamboyant foliage featuring dramatic color combinations place them at the top of most plant lovers' wish lists. Bearing patches of crimson, burgundy, green, ochre and pink, they are quick to charm new and dedicated plant parents alike.

Like many of the best air-cleaning indoor plants, crotons can also filter out harmful airborne toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene and xylene, which occur in many household materials. They help maintain air quality and moisture levels through transpiration and are a stunning, positive addition to any room.

How To Care For Crotons

Originating from Southeast Asia's tropical rainforests, crotons love a constantly bright, warm, and humid environment. They can suffer from stress and sudden leaf drop if conditions vary, but thankfully they are not one of the hardest houseplants to keep alive. Follow these simple requirements they need to thrive:

• Light: Crotons love high light levels and need them to produce their vivid foliage. 'A bright spot - so it casts a medium to strong shadow most of the day - is key,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'I think it really is the most important thing to keep in mind when growing a croton because the more light it gets, the more a croton will generally be able to tolerate other stressors.'
• Humidity & Temperature: As you would expect of a rainforest native, crotons like humid conditions. 'Average to above-average relative humidity levels are ideal - if you can keep humidity above 40/45 percent or so, you should be good,' Justin notes. 'Croton does like warm temperatures - keeping it over 65 degrees (F) or so is optimal.'
• Fertilizer: Feed with a liquid fertilizer every four to six weeks during the active growing period of late spring to early fall. Try this kelp-infused liquid feed from Amazon.
• Watering: Crotons are not the thirstiest of indoor plants, which helps to keep care simple. 'I generally water when the top 25 to 33 percent or so of the potting mix dries to the touch,' says Justin. 'If in doubt, keep your croton on the dry side rather than too wet.' This water level pot indicator from Walmart can help.
• Stability: 'Try to avoid any big changes to a croton's environment,' says Justin. 'In nature, crotons are rooted into the ground and don’t move from place to place, so moving from a bright sunroom to a dim dining room, for example, can stress it out, causing leaf loss.'

Enhance Your Decor With Crotons

One of the simplest ways to style houseplants and boost a croton's impact comes through the choice of pot.

'I’m a big fan of blue pots because blue creates a stunning contrast to the red/orange/yellow variegation in the foliage,' says Justin. 'But if a more coordinated, harmonious look suits you, you might go for a bright yellow or orange pot, for example, to echo and hype up the color the plant already has.'

He also adds: 'The same goes for the backdrop; you’ll find your croton may have a totally different (but equally beautiful) look up against a soft blue wall as an orange one.'

Mixing these houseplants for maximalists with other indoor plants with contrasting, dark green foliage makes for an eye-catching focal point. Consider grouping monstera, peace lily, Bird of Paradise and pothos with crotons and arrange on a tiered plant stand - such as this gold design from Lowe's or along a mantelpiece.

Thanks to their large, technicolor leaves, crotons are perfect for filtering sunlight. 'I’m a big fan of backlighting crotons - placing the plant where it’s in between me and the light source,' explains Justin. 'The way the light can come through the leaves is almost like a stained-glass window. So crotons are perfect for large windowsills or plant stands in front of a window. Plus, they love the light.'

It's well worth knowing how to clean houseplant leaves to keep crotons bright and healthy. As Justin explains: 'Any dust that accumulates on the leaf both decreases the plant’s appearance and decreases the amount of light it’s getting (dust acts like a filter), as well as provides habitat for pests.

'So it’s a good idea to regularly clean your croton’s leaves with a soft cloth. Cotton or microfiber should be just fine.' Try Lowe's microfibre cloths.

What to Shop

No doubt you are now smitten with crotons. Why not discover our favorite houseplants to make your home feel cozy for fall, plus learn about 7 of the best houseplants with dark foliage to make your croton foliage shine even brighter?

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September pruning is not a yard-wide haircut. Focus on indeterminate tomatoes, basil, lavender, wisteria, garden phlox, daylilies, and currants or gooseberries, making only the light, plant-specific cuts that improve ripening, shape, flowering, or health before cold weather.

The rule is to work early in the month, use clean sharp essential pruning tools, and stop if a plant is already responding to chilly nights; in Zones 3–5, that moment arrives much faster than it does in temperate Zones 7–9.

A little pruning now is about finesse, not bravado: remove what is finished, diseased, overcrowded, or unlikely to earn its keep before frost. These Felco bypass pruners from Amazon are the all-purpose pair I reach for.

September Is A Month For Editing, Not Rewriting

September has a particular light: less glare, more gold, and an uncanny ability to reveal every floppy stem I had politely ignored in August. It is tempting to march out with loppers and a grand plan. Resist. Major renovation pruning of most trees and shrubs belongs to dormancy, while spring-flowering shrubs should be left alone altogether unless something is dead, damaged, or diseased.

Instead, think like a good editor. Take out repetition, remove the bits that have lost the plot, and leave the essential structure intact.

A clean cut should be made just above a healthy leaf, side shoot, or bud, never in the middle of a bare stub. Before moving from one plant to another, particularly if powdery mildew, blight, or leaf spot is present, wipe blades with disinfectant for gardening tools from Amazon. It is a rather unglamorous ritual, but so is washing one’s hands, and both have saved many a season.

1. Indeterminate Tomatoes

Indeterminate tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are inveterate optimists. They will continue making flowers and fresh growth as though October were merely a rumor.

In cooler regions, I top my tomatoes roughly four to six weeks before the usual first frost, cutting the main stem two leaves above the highest fruit cluster I realistically expect to ripen. This tells the plant, with admirable economy, that now is the time to color up the fruit already on board.

Remove yellowing or badly spotted leaves, especially those touching the soil, and pinch out obvious new suckers. Do not strip the plant bare; tomatoes still need enough foliage to feed the fruit and protect it from sunscald.

Gardeners in Zones 8–10, where the season may continue with real warmth, can be less ruthless and simply keep vines tied in and healthy. Our guide on how to get tomatoes to ripen on the vine has more ways to make the most of the remaining harvest.

2. Basil

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is not really pruned so much as repeatedly persuaded to be useful. In early September, pinch out every flowering tip you find, cutting just above a pair of leaves. The plant responds by branching, which means more tender leaves for pesto, tomato salads, and the sort of dinner that makes a Tuesday feel briefly like a vacation in Tuscany.

This is especially worthwhile in Zones 6 and warmer, where there may be weeks of growing weather left. In colder areas, harvest generously before night temperatures regularly fall below 50°F; basil dislikes a cold snap with melodramatic intensity.

Avoid cutting more than a third of the plant at once, and use the trimmings immediately or turn them into basil oil. If your plants have been prone to mildew, remove affected leaves and discard them rather than composting them. You can find more advice in our guide to growing basil.

This Lowe's multipurpose garden hand tool has the perfect blades to harvest basil with clean cuts.

3. Lavender

There is something gloriously calming about a lavender hedge (Lavandula angustifolia) after its late-summer trim: a soft, silvery hummock, as tidy as a well-made bed.

Once flowering has finished, remove spent flower stems and lightly shorten the leafy growth by up to one-third, aiming for a rounded cushion. Crucially, do not cut deeply into the old, leafless wood. Lavender is wonderfully fragrant but not endlessly forgiving.

Early September is a good moment in Zones 7–9, where plants have time to settle before winter. In Zone 6, finish early in the month and be cautious; in Zones 3–5, it is usually safer to deadhead only and save meaningful shaping until spring. French and Spanish lavenders are less cold-hardy still, so treat them gently.

A small pair of precision pruning snips from Amazon is perfect for a few plants, while shears make sense for a long lavender border. See our full advice on how to prune lavender before taking the first cut.

Shop Pruning Tools

4. Wisteria

Wisteria (Wisteria sinensis and Wisteria floribunda) is the glamorous guest who has stayed too late and begun rearranging the furniture. If you missed the main midsummer trim, gardeners in mild Zones 8–9 can still shorten this year’s long, whippy side shoots in very early September, leaving five or six leaves from the permanent framework. This lets in light, keeps the vine away from gutters and rooflines, and encourages the short flowering spurs that matter next spring.

Do not cut back the principal woody branches now, and do not attempt this after nights turn chilly. In Zones 3–7, the safer course is to remove only dead, damaged, or truly troublesome growth, then wait for the dormant-season prune.

Wisteria has a gift for turning one optimistic snip into a structural engineering project, so use extendable bypass loppers from Amazon only on growth too thick for hand pruners.

Our guide on how to prune wisteria explains the twice-yearly rhythm.

5. Phlox

Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) can look radiant in September or rather like it has been caught in a rainstorm wearing a silk dress. Where flowers are fading, snip each spent cluster back to a leaf joint or outward-facing side bud. In warm, long-season areas, this may prompt a modest encore from side shoots; everywhere, it improves the plant’s appearance and prevents enthusiastic self-seeding.

Watch for powdery mildew, which is the perennial gardener’s way of being reminded that August was humid. Remove affected leaves and thin only enough congested growth to increase air movement but do not shear the entire plant to the ground while it is still green and trying to feed its roots.

In colder zones, stop deadheading when frost is close and let the plant wind down naturally. As with all deadheading, the purpose is not to create a botanical buzz cut but to encourage the plant’s best final performance.

Our guide to when to cut back phlox has more information on when to do a harder prune.

6. Daylilies

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) do not ask much, which is fortunate because they are often planted in quantities that imply a small army was involved.

In September, remove the old flower scapes right down at the crown and pull away yellow, collapsed, or disease-marked leaves. I also tidy any foliage that has sprawled across a path after summer storms, cutting it cleanly rather than tearing it.

What I do not do is give healthy green daylily fans a fashionable bob. Those leaves are still making energy for next year’s flowers. In Zones 3–6, wait until foliage yellows naturally or is knocked down by frost before cutting daylilies back; gardeners in mild zones can keep removing tatty leaves as needed.

If a clump is crowded and flowering poorly, make a note to divide it in spring or early fall while there is time for roots to settle, not on the same afternoon you have trimmed it.

7. Currants

Redcurrants (Ribes rubrum), blackcurrants (Ribes nigrum), and gooseberries (Ribes uva-crispa) repay a little attention after the last berries are picked. In early September, especially in Zones 5–8, shorten this season’s side shoots to around five leaves from their base and remove low, weak, crossing, or diseased shoots.

The objective is an open, goblet-like framework where light and air can reach the fruiting wood, not a sculpture fit for the Chelsea Flower Show.

For older gooseberries and currants, remove one or two of the oldest stems at ground level rather than hacking everything back at once. Blackcurrants fruit best on younger wood, while red and white currants carry fruit on older spurs, so label your plants if your memory is anything like mine.

Wear thorn-resistant gardening gloves from Amazon for gooseberries, and use a folding pruning saw from Walmart only for old, woody stems.

The best September pruning always leaves a yard looking cared for, not conspicuously 'done.' Put the heavy tools away, compost only healthy clippings, and admire the clearer view. Fall gardening will provide plenty of jobs; it need not be invited to bring a chainsaw.

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It may seem a little early for some to start thinking about the holidays. However, if you're planning a beautiful festive display with indoor hyacinths, the bulbs do need some prepping this month.

With their array of different colors – from deep purple, pale lavender and bright pink to soft yellow, blush tones and bright white – hyacinths make a charming scented centrepiece or festive floral display. It's a task that's well worth investing some time in.

From bulb selection, planting and chilling requirements, to storage and timing, discover how to grow hyacinth bulbs in containers, like these prepared white pearl hyacinths from Etsy. Follow these expert-recommended tasks, and you can have beautiful blooms for December.

1. Bulb Selection

Different hyacinth varieties require planting at different times, depending on the cultivar. Some varieties, such as 'Anna Marie', can bloom in as little as ten weeks, while others, like 'Pink Pearl', can take up to thirteen weeks.

This generally includes 8-10 weeks in cold conditions and the last two to three weeks indoors, so check the specifics of the cultivars you choose and work backwards to know exactly when to plant them.

'Whatever the color or cultivar you opt for, look for hyacinths labelled "prepared", "pre-chilled" or sold specifically for Christmas forcing,' explains Peggy Anne Montgomery, horticulturist from Flowerbulb.eu.

'Since hyacinths typically bloom in spring, these bulbs have been given special cooling treatment to promote earlier flowering and are far more reliable than ordinary hyacinths.

'Select large and firm bulbs, making sure they have no soft areas, mold, or damage. Large bulbs contain more stored energy and can produce more substantial flowers.'

These 'Delft Blue' prepared hyacinth bulbs from Etsy come in a pack of five and should be planted straight away.

2. Mixing Varieties

Whether you want your potted hyacinths to open at the same time or staggered for an extended display over the holiday period, bloom timing is key.

'If I’m planting several varieties together in the same container, I only combine bulbs with similar forcing times,' says Tabar Gifford, master gardener at American Meadows.

'For instance, ‘Delft Blue’ and another early-forcing variety, such as ‘Jan Bos ’, can give me a coordinated display rather than one finishing while the other is still just a green shoot.

'I generally don’t mix an early forcer with a late one like ‘City of Haarlem’ in the same pot; instead, I’ll pot the late variety separately and start it earlier if needed so it catches up.

'For color, I love pairing a classic blue like ‘Delft Blue’ with a moody, deep purple like ‘Woodstock’, or a soft yellow like ‘City of Haarlem’ against a crisp white ‘Carnegie’ for real festive contrast.'

If you’re displaying multiple pots together rather than combining varieties in one container, you have more flexibility, since you can stagger your planting dates so everything opens around the same week.

These 'Jan Bos' forced hyacinth bulbs from Etsy have a deep pink color for a dramatic display.

3. Planting Hyacinth Bulbs

If your cultivar takes ten weeks or longer to bloom in the cold, plant hyacinth bulbs in September (or early October at the latest) if you want them to flower for Christmas.

Single small hyacinth plants make lovely table decorations. However, for larger holiday displays you may want to cluster different colors together or plant a mass of one single tone for impact.

'Plant the bulbs in any well-draining potting mix and close enough that the bulbs are just touching,' says Peggy Anne. 'Cover small bulbs with ½ inch of soil and larger bulbs up to their tips. Water them, and put in a cool (but not freezing) dark place.'

For a simple holiday display, plant several prepared hyacinth bulbs together in a shallow pot or decorative holiday bowl filled with well-draining soil, like this organic potting mix from Burpee.

It's always best to protect your hands when handling hyacinth bulbs, as they can cause skin irritation. These pretty printed gardening gloves from Target are comfortable, durable, and washable.

'Set the bulbs close together, with their tips just above the soil,' says Peggy Anne. 'Once they're ready follow the same instructions as above. The clustered bulbs create a full, fragrant centerpiece for a holiday table, mantel or windowsill.'

'When you’re forcing bulbs, you want to plant much shallower than most people expect,' says Tabar. 'I nestle the bulbs close together in the container, almost touching, with their shoulders and noses exposed above the soil or bulb fiber line.

'It should look like the bulb is sitting in the pot rather than buried in it. Orientation matters, too: always pointy end (the nose) up, root plate down; that’s true whether you’re forcing in soil, bulb fiber, or a water glass.'

"Prepared" hyacinth bulbs can also be planted in glass bulb vases. These are shaped like an hourglass allowing the bulb to sit above the water, and the roots to grow down into it. 'Keep the water just below the bottom of the bulb,' says Peggy Anne. 'The bulb itself should not sit in water.'

This set of three DAKSJUS mixed color vases from IKEA would make a stylish display.

'These still need the full chilling period before they come into the light,' says Tabar. 'The roots sense the water and will grow down toward it, but keep the base of the bulb just above the water rather than sitting in it, as direct contact can encourage rot.'

4. Storage and Chilling Requirements

Where you keep your potted Hyacinth bulbs will depend on the temperatures in your region. Those who experience chilly winters can store their bulbs in a shed or garage outside, while those in warmer zones may need to refrigerate them.

'Keep potted bulbs in a cool, dark spot such as a cold garage or basement,' says Peggy Anne. 'Aim for temperatures around 40–48°F and keep the soil lightly moist throughout the chilling period.

'If temperatures are suitable, you can also place the pots outdoors and let the weather provide the chilling. A layer of leaves or mulch can help insulate them, while chicken wire can keep rodents away.

'You can also chill bulbs in the refrigerator, but keep them away from fruit. Fruit releases ethylene gas, which can interfere with the bulbs' development.'

These plant labels from Lowe's will remind you which varieties you have planted.

5. Forced Bulbs vs Regular Bulbs

“Prepared”, "forced" or “pre-chilled” hyacinth bulbs need less time to bloom as growers have already started the cold treatment – and they are a more reliable option if you want to see this spring flower during the holiday season. However, Tabar explains that ordinary hyacinth bulbs can be used indoors too, if given adequate cold treatment.

'You can begin the chilling process yourself with regular bulbs,' says Tabar. 'Hyacinths need a sustained period of cold – essentially convincing the bulb it has lived through a winter – before it will send up a flower.'

For regular bulbs, Tabar plans on around 12–14 weeks of cold treatment. 'A refrigerator crisper drawer works well,' she says. 'But keep the bulbs away from any ripening fruit.

'An unheated garage, cellar, or cold frame can work just as well if you have the space. You’ll know the chilling period is progressing when you see pale shoot growth and the pot is well filled with roots.

'Always check the supplier’s instructions, because chilling requirements can vary. It’s worth the wait, just know you’ll need to practice patience.'

This cold frame from Burpee measures W23" x H16", so it can fit comfortably in a shed or garage. Cover with a blanket for plants that require darkness.

6. When To Move Potted Bulbs Into The Light

Mark on your calendar when you expect your indoor bulbs to be ready to come out of the cool, dark storage and into the warmth and the light. However, check them first and do it gradually.

'Don’t move the bulbs from chilling into a warm room just because the calendar tells you to,' says Peggy Anne. 'Instead, check that the shoots are light green or yellow and measure about 1½ to 2” in length.'

When they're ready, bring them into a warmer room away from direct bright light.

'Once the leaves begin to turn darker green, gradually move them closer to a window and into warmer, brighter conditions,' says Peggy Anne. 'But keep them away from radiators, heating vents, and other sources of artificial heat.'

Hyacinths should bloom about three weeks after having undergone the correct cool period, but the timing will differ according to the variety and conditions.

'Follow the planting and forcing instructions that come with your specific bulbs,' adds Peggy Anne.

7. Festive Displays

The color and style of the containers you choose for your indoor bulbs will depend on the theme of your holiday decor. However, neutral tones offer a flexible option, and the size of the pot should not be much bigger than the bulb or bulbs you plan to plant.

'Shallow bulb pans or pots (4–8 inches wide) with drainage holes, filled with regular potting soil, are my go-to, and the most forgiving option,' says Tabar.

'Decorative bowls with no drainage, filled with bulb fiber (a lightweight, moisture-retentive mix made for exactly this purpose) are lovely for gifting since there’s no soil to spill.'

Once the shoots have emerged, a light layer of sphagnum moss tucked around the base can hide the soil or bulb fiber and gives the container a finished look.

This sphagnum moss from Lowe's would add a decorative touch to hyacinth displays.

'I’m careful to keep the moss loose rather than packed down, and I always leave the bulb’s nose and any emerging bud completely uncovered so it isn’t smothered,' says Tabar. 'For the water-glass method, small decorative pebbles or glass marbles around the base do the same job and help hold the bulb steady.

'For a truly festive look, I’ll often set a few forcing glasses together in a low tray or basket, or group several small pots of the same variety in a single decorative container; it reads as one lush arrangement rather than a single lonely bulb.'

Shop Beautiful Planters

Consider the hyacinth colors you would like for your festive display and start planting over the coming weeks for beautiful blooms in time for Christmas or the New Year.

'I love having a taste of spring in the winter months, and forcing bulbs is a really rewarding way to make that happen,' says Tabar

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Lavender may be past its summer peak, but September is no time to forget about it. A few simple jobs now can help plants stay healthy as temperatures fall, while also giving you the chance to create new lavender plants for next year.

For US gardeners, the timing will vary considerably by region. In northern states, fall can bring chilly nights and early frosts, while gardeners in the South may still be enjoying warm weather. Wherever you garden, September is a useful month to check your lavender's growing conditions and prepare it for the seasonal shift.

If you're hoping to grow lavender or try landscaping with lavender, September is a good time to assess your plants and plan ahead. I love the Southern Living® Phenomenal™ Lavender Plant and Sensational™ Lavender Plant from Plant Addicts, with Sensational™ being an especially lovely choice because it blooms in fall.

Exploring different lavender varieties can help you choose plants suited to your local conditions, with factors such as size, hardiness, and flowering time to consider.

1. Tidy Spent Flowers

If your lavender has finished flowering, September is a good time to deadhead lavender by removing spent flower stems and lightly tidying the plant. Focus on shaping the green, leafy growth rather than cutting deeply into the woody base. For the job, I like the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Amazon, which are well suited to trimming flower stems and light branches.

Avoid heavy pruning late in the season, particularly in colder climates. Cutting too hard can encourage tender new growth that may struggle when freezing temperatures arrive.

2. Cut Back on Watering

As the summer heat fades, your lavender will likely need less water. Knowing how to water lavender properly is especially important in areas where fall brings increased rainfall. Lavender is drought-tolerant once established and prefers dry, well-drained conditions. Let the soil dry between waterings, and avoid keeping the root zone consistently damp, which can contribute to root rot.

For container-grown lavender, I like the Fiskars Indoor and More Watering Can, available at Walmart. Its long, slim spout makes it easier to direct water right to the base of the plant without overwatering.

If you're growing lavender in a container, also check that excess water can drain freely through the bottom.

3. Check Your Soil and Drainage

Before fall rains arrive, check where your lavender is growing. These Mediterranean plants dislike sitting in wet soil, so drainage is particularly important as temperatures cool. If you have heavy clay soil, consider improving drainage with suitable amendments or growing lavender in a raised bed.

If you're growing lavender in pots, make sure containers have drainage holes and use a free-draining potting mix. The Hayes Terracotta Planters from Pottery Barn are a stylish option for outdoor use, while the Bloem Terra Plastic Planter from Target offers a more budget-friendly choice with drainage.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, says: 'Lavender is happiest when you work with its natural preferences rather than against them. In September, that means keeping the roots on the drier side and making sure excess moisture can escape easily.'

4. Skip the Fall Fertilizer

It can be tempting to fertilize lavender with a final feed in September, but established plants generally don't need it. Fertilizing now can encourage soft, leafy growth just as the plant should be slowing down for winter. If your soil is reasonably fertile and the plant is healthy, there's little reason to add extra nutrients.

If you do need a fertilizer for lavender, choose a gentle, slow-release option and use it sparingly. Jobe's Organics Granular Plant Fertilizer from Amazon is one option to consider for plants that genuinely need feeding, but it's best saved for the active growing season rather than applied in September.

5. Take Cuttings for Next Year

September can be a great time to propagate lavender from cuttings, particularly if you have a plant with a scent, color or growth habit you particularly love. Take healthy, non-flowering shoots and remove the lower leaves before placing the cuttings into a free-draining rooting medium. A rooting hormone such as Garden Safe TakeRoot Rooting Hormone can help encourage root development.

Keep cuttings lightly moist and protected while roots develop. This is an inexpensive way to produce new plants for borders, containers or pathways – and a useful gardening job to tackle before the season winds down.

6. Inspect for Pests and Disease

Give plants a close inspection as you complete your September garden cleanup. Look for discolored foliage, dying stems or signs of lavender pests, and check that the base of the plant isn't staying excessively wet. Good airflow and drainage are essential for lavender, particularly as cooler and wetter weather arrives.

If you spot aphids, spider mites, or other soft-bodied pests, an insecticidal soap can be a useful option when used according to the label. Bonide Captain Jack's Insecticidal Super Soap from The Home Depot is one option that can help control several common garden pests. Always test sprays on a small area first and avoid treating plants when pollinators are actively visiting.

Removing affected foliage and improving growing conditions can help prevent small problems from becoming bigger ones.

7. Prepare for Your First Frost

How much protection your lavender needs depends on the variety and where you live. If you're wondering how to winterize lavender, start by checking your plant's hardiness before temperatures fall. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is generally more cold-hardy, while Spanish and French lavender varieties can be less tolerant of freezing conditions.

If you garden in a colder USDA hardiness zone, be ready to protect tender varieties as genuinely cold weather approaches. Container-grown lavender is particularly vulnerable because its roots have less insulation than plants growing in the ground. A frost cloth such as this Plant Cover from Amazon can provide temporary protection, while a layer of natural burlap, such as Burlapper Burlap Fabric from Amazon, can offer additional shelter for containers.

Don't rush to wrap or cover healthy lavender simply because September has arrived. Wait until genuinely cold weather is approaching and make sure any protection still allows good airflow.

Lavender doesn’t need much fuss in fall. I’ve managed to keep mine going year after year by avoiding overwatering, skipping fertilizer and not pruning too hard. Instead, I focus on good drainage, a light tidy-up and winter protection when needed. A little care now can help lavender stay healthy through winter and bloom again next year.

Few indoor plants have the impact and appeal of an areca palm, especially during hot summer months. This graceful, arching palm has an alluring, visual charm coupled with mood boosting benefits that can help revitalise your inside space and transport you to restful, tropical climes.

More refined than other indoor palms, with their strong, architectural lines, these relatively slow growing plants exude calmness, peace and serenity, and thankfully are pretty easy to look after.

One of the most elegant houseplants that can cool your house and purify the air, these palms (also known as the butterfly palm, or botanically Areca catechu) are celebrated by home stylists, interior designers and plant experts alike. Whether you opt for a small plant, such as this 12''areca palm from Walmart on a sunny desk top or large specimen, try this areca palm from The Sill displayed proudly in a vacant corner, you can revitalize your living space into a cool, leafy retreat and soak up the benefits.

How Areca Palms Can Transform a Home in Summer

A fabulous choice for looks alone, this palm also has valuable cooling and air cleaning properties that makes it useful and beneficial to have in our homes, especially during hot summer months.

'I think the areca palm is the ultimate summer statement plant because it easily brings tropical vibes indoors with its feathery, arching fronds,' says plant expert Paris Lalicata. 'It also purifies the air giving your home that fresh outdoor air feeling even when you’re stuck inside on a sunny day!'

Using a process known as transpiration, these tropical indoor plants can help rebalance humidity levels within the home.

'Like all houseplants, Areca palm absorbs moisture from the potting mix via its roots and then releases much of that moisture (along with fresh oxygen) into the air via its fronds,' explains plant expert Justin Hancock. 'This is especially helpful for rooms that have an air conditioner running a lot, as the palm replenishes humidity stripped out by the air conditioning unit.'

'It’s noticeably more delicate looking than a kentia palm, lady palm, or majesty palm, for example,' says Justin. 'It also has a sense of fullness you don’t necessarily see with other palms because it’s typically grown with multiple plants per pot, rather than just having a trunk or two.'

'Since the palm has so many fronds and leaflets, it may be adding more humidity than a smaller, less leafy plant,' says houseplant expert Lisa Eldred Steinkopf.

How To Keep Your Areca Palm Thriving

Native to the tropical forests of Singapore, Malaysia and Papua New Guinea, these palms love warmth, high light levels and humidity. Knowing this background is key to these indoor tropical plants thriving.

'In summer, your Areca Palm can do double-duty in front of a bright window by absorbing solar radiation coming in, rather than having it heat up your room, and giving you natural privacy with its size,' explains Justin. 'As a houseplant, the more light it gets, the better.'

He also cautions that, 'Areca Palm isn’t a fan of low-light areas, so it’s probably not going to be happy in a windowless bathroom or the far side of a living room, den, or bedroom.' An Aspect LED Grow Light from The Sill will bring light to darker spots.

Moisture levels around the plant and its roots need to monitored, so investing in a meter such as this Probe Moisture Meter from Amazon, can be useful.

'Don’t let your palm dry out and keep the humidity up around the plant,' says Lisa. 'Add more plants around the palm or place it on a pebble tray to help. A humidifier would also help.' Paris also adds that, 'palms grow best in a warm, humid environment so avoid rooms that get too cold or dry,' says Paris. 'Consider a space heater if the room will get below 65F degrees.'

Find plastic plant humidity saucers at Walmart.

How An Areca Palm Can Refresh Your Interior Decor

The Areca palm is the indoor plant that will instantly transform a light filled room. 'The secret is in those beautiful soft fronds that arch out gracefully. They help to break up hard lines in your space and fill empty areas with airy foliage. Just having those big tropical leaves indoors makes a room feel closer to nature,' says Paris.

This tall indoor plant makes an impressive statement displayed on its own, as Paris explains. 'Large specimens are great as floor plants, filling empty corners or elevated with plant stands depending on the space and window size, but smaller varieties look great on desks and side tables.'

Alternatively, try showcasing this palm as part of a curated plant collection.

'If you want to up the biophilic effect, give it some friends and create a grouping; either multiple areca palms or an areca palm paired with some of your other favorite houseplants. In nature, you never see a single plant all by itself,' says Justin.

'The effect of having more, smaller fronds compared to fewer, larger fronds is perfect for adding a tropical touch in a softer way , and for contrasting coarser-leafed houseplants like Monstera, Bird of Paradise, or Fiddle Leaf Fig,' he adds.

Walmart's Easy Care Air Purifying 12 Plant collection is a great starting point and multi-tiered metal plant stand such as this from Target makes arranging them easy.

With their vibrant green fronds breaking into many slender leaflets, the butterfly palm is a firm favorite with interior designers.

'The foliage is adaptable and can complement almost any color,' explains Paris. 'I personally like a tropical turquoise to make the foliage pop or burnt oranges and warm yellows for an earthy feel.'

Indoor planters come in all sizes, finishes and materials. This Large Pallas Floor Planter from The Sill comes with a bamboo stand for added height and drama. Alternatively try Anthropologie's striking Slatted Acacia Diamond planter.

If you've fallen for the charms of an areca palm, discover How to grow a palm tree to ensure the best results and consider adding a sago palm to your collection.

And our curated houseplant care kit will show you everything you need to give them the best care possible.

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You can't fail to notice Gaillardia, with its bold daisy-like blooms tinted in yellow and red. A US native, these short-lived perennials are easy-going, thrive in heat and need little water once established. Flowering non-stop from mid- summer through to the first frosts, it deserves a spot in every sunny yard.

Commonly known as blanket flower, there are two varieties native to the US - Gaillardia pulchella throughout eastern, central, and southwestern US and Gaillardia aristata across Illinois, Oklahoma, and most of the western US. Well adapted to thriving in the hot and dusty grasslands and prairies, these hard working plants are brilliant for dense ground cover, self seeding and supporting wildlife.

Growing blanket flower really couldn't be easier and with very little effort, it will reward you with showy blooms for months on end. In fact, even knowing how to deadhead blanket flowers is optional. You can find Gaillardia seeds at True Leaf Market or find seeds for the Arizona series with their double blooms at Burpee.

Why You Should Grow Gaillardia In Your Yard

No yard should be without blanket flower in late summer and when heading into fall. ‘Gaillardia is such an easy, joyful garden contributor. It pulls in the bees and butterflies and cut flower enthusiasts alike with its long bloom time’ says landscape designer, Stacilyn Feldman.

With it's bi-colored flowers in red and yellow, gaillardia radiates cheer amongst sun-ripened grasses and other fading summer blooms. ‘Blanket flower is one of those dependable native plants that truly shines during the hottest part of the growing season. To get the most from it, plant it in full sun with well-drained soil and avoid overwatering or fertilizing’, suggests Mary Phillips, Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation.

Reaching heights of 2-3ft (61-91cm) with a spread of 2ft (61cm) these native varieties need regular watering and feeding during their first year, but will happily cope with drought conditions thereafter. Compact varieties are also available, and are perfect for containers and bedding displays.

'Annual blanket flower can be planted by seed in the fall and can bloom as early as the following spring,' says Mary. This plant is also a prolific self seeder, meaning that those seeds not eaten by birds will germinate and establish the following spring unaided.

Plant expert Laura Coggan also adds, 'Galliardia 'Spintop™ Mariachi Copper Sun' Improved is also worth mentioning where wildlife value is a priority. It is a compact, densely branching plant with strong stems and a particularly long, heavy flowering period. Its nectar and pollen-rich flowers attract bees and butterflies, while the seedheads are attractive to birds including goldfinches.' You can find this variety of blanket flower at Park Seed.

Looking After Your Gaillardia

Easy going and requiring little intervention - apart from in their first year - these long performing plants are essential in any low maintenance yard or pollinator garden. ‘It is relatively disease resistant and not usually susceptible to deer or rabbits’, says landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman .

'Blanket flower evolved in open prairies, grasslands, and sandy habitats where intense sunlight, high temperatures, and periodic drought are common,' says Mary. 'Deep root systems help the plant conserve water and bloom even during summer droughts. . 'It performs best in lean, well-drained soils, including sandy or gravelly sites, and does not tolerate poorly drained or consistently wet conditions.'

Although the lance-shaped, green-gray foliage is pretty unremarkable; including the slightly bristly leaves of the common blanket flower, it does form dense ground cover helping suppress weeds, conserve moisture and offering wildlife shelter. 'Plant blanket flower in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day,' advises Mary.

As long as it is not planted in rich, fertile soil, gaillardia will bloom non-stop from June to October. 'Deadheading will prolong flowering, so faded blooms can be cut back to a healthy leaf or side shoot through summer,' explains plant expert Laura Coggan. 'As fall approaches, leave some later flowerheads intact. This lets seed develop for birds while the remaining flowers continue to provide nectar and pollen for bees and butterflies.'

Aid good drainage by adding fine grade pea gravel from Walmart and make deadheading quick and easy with these Fiskars Pruning Snips from Amazon.

What To Plant Alongside Gaillardia

As a cheery flower in sunset shades, blanket flower can prove a challenge to work with. Leaving it to colonise large areas will create a showstopping late summer display, but there are other considered options too.

'Pick sympatico warm hued blooms like Sedum, Coreopsis, Achillea and ornamental grasses,' says Stacilyn. 'I’m partial to Panicum ‘Cape Breeze' - to pair with this garden workhorse.'

Due to its late flowering season, this resilient plant is one of the best to attract hummingbirds plus it's hugely valuable in to beneficial insects and pollinators too. Team it with like-minded flowers as part of a drought tolerant pollinator garden. 'Pairing blanket flower with other native species that bloom before and after it creates a continuous source of nectar for pollinators throughout the growing season,' adds Mary.

Sun loving shrubs such as rosemary, lavender and bottle brush are perfect companions to showy blanket flowers and make a statement as part of a Mediterranean garden or xeriscape. No surprise, but these prairie blooms also work with a mix of airy perennials and grasses too, including tickseed, coneflower, stipa, rudbeckia and blue-silver stemmed Russian sage.

For a simple and no-effort plant combination try the Native Western Xeriscape Wildflower Seed Mix from American Meadows.

Impressed how blanket flower can extend your yard's floral charm, take it even further with these best fall-flowering perennials.

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As you look around your garden throughout August, you’ll see plenty of plants that can still benefit from a nutritional boost. Not all need it, but for those that do, the key is using the right feed for their late-season needs, and there is one specific fertilizing mistake you must steer clear of.

That crucial fertilizing mistake to avoid in August is using high-nitrogen feeds. These encourage the wrong type of growth in late summer. Not only this, but it creates a real risk of burning plants and damaging their long-term health.

It is a high price to pay for using the wrong fertilizer. You never want to over-fertilize plants, and certainly not with high-nitrogen feeds at this time of year. If you want to fertilize plants in August, it is better to use a balanced feed or a bloom booster, such as this Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster at Amazon. This can benefit any flowering or fruiting plants this month, whereas other feeds won’t.

The Dangers of Excess Nitrogen in August

Fertilizing is important, but it doesn’t come without risks. Different fertilizers promote different responses in plants. Feeding plants correctly ensures you encourage the right response at the right time of year. This is why giving plants lots of nitrogen is such a key fertilizing mistake to avoid in August.

Late summer is a time of abundant growth across the garden. Summer annuals and perennials are blooming, and fall flowers aren’t far behind. Elsewhere, your late-season vegetables are developing while your summer crops are primed for picking.

At this time of year, two of the three essential plant nutrients are more important than the other. Phosphorus and potassium are crucial – they help with flowering and fruiting, which is what you want in August. On the other hand, nitrogen primarily promotes lush, green growth of stems and foliage, not ideal for late summer.

If you do give shrubs, perennials, or crops high-nitrogen fertilizers in August, you’ll see the plants respond by putting out young green growth, not flowers and fruit. This unseasonal late flush causes issues over the rest of the year, as the plant is not prepared for fall or winter.

‘It pushes soft growth this late that won't harden before frost. You're growing leaves for winter to kill,’ warns Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer. As well as being susceptible to the first frosts, tender new growth encouraged by lots of nitrogen is more vulnerable to pests and disease.

Encouraging the wrong growth doesn’t just apply to feeding flowers or vegetables. It is also a mistake to fertilize a lawn this month with excess nitrogen, as this would encourage weak, leggy growth rather than strengthen the lawn as it prepares for dormancy.

Some gardeners may reach for fertilizers in an attempt to rescue heat-stressed plants in late summer. This is not the best course of action, especially if you mistakenly use nitrogen-rich feeds.

‘When it is extremely hot outside, plants are going to slow down with growing and flowering, and more fertilizer is not going to fix that,’ warns Lindsey Chastain, an experienced gardener, homesteader, and editor at The Waddle and Cluck.

‘Instead, what can happen is that you can overfertilize and burn your plants, especially with a high-nitrogen fertilizer.’

Over-fertilizing or fertilizer burn shows itself as discolored foliage, stunted growth, wilting, or shedding of leaves, flowers, or fruits. If you see these signs this month, flush the soil with lots of water to wash away the build-up and refrain from using any feed for the rest of the season.

What to Use Instead

Certain plants around the yard don’t need any feeding in late summer. It is not an ideal time for fertilizing shrubs, trees, or early-flowering perennial plants, for example. These want to be slowing down and preparing for fall and winter, so ease off and let nature do its job.

Any plants that are still actively blooming and developing fruits do benefit from extra nutrients this month. This includes popular plants such as roses, dahlias, tomatoes, and peppers, and especially any flowering or fruiting plants growing in containers.

The best summer fertilizers for flowering and fruiting plants are higher in phosphorus and potassium. These products will have the latter two numbers of the NPK ratio on the packaging higher than the first. This indicates more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen – which is what you want to see in August.

You can extend the flowering season and ripen the remaining crops by using this kind of liquid fertilizer every week or two until around six weeks before your first frost. If you have flowering and fruiting plants in container gardens, they definitely need a weekly feed.

Look for products described as bloom boosters or tomato feeds, as they are reliably higher in phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. A good summer fertilizer encourages what you’ve got to end the season on a high note, rather than promote late, soft growth that does more harm than good.

Shop Late Summer Fertilizers

Another way to guarantee late-season flowers on your annuals and perennials is deadheading. Removing spent blooms stops energy from going into seed production and focuses it on opening new flowers.

Sweet peas, roses, dahlias, phlox, bee balm, and snapdragons are all among the top flowers to deadhead in August to keep those blooms coming and extend the display.

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August can be a challenging month for houseplants. Temperatures are high, air conditioning is running, and intense summer sunlight can quickly change conditions indoors. For peace lilies, that can mean drooping leaves, brown tips, and faded flowers.

Fortunately, Spathiphyllum is a forgiving houseplant, and August is a good time to give it a seasonal check. With the right peace lily care, a few simple adjustments can keep your plant healthy through the final weeks of summer.

Whether your peace lily is growing in a bright apartment in New York or dealing with the heat of a Texas summer, paying attention to light, watering, humidity, and temperature can make all the difference.

1. Keep Your Peace Lily Out of Direct Sun

Peace lilies prefer bright, indirect light, which is particularly important in August when afternoon sunshine can be intense. If you're wondering where to place a peace lily, an east-facing window is often a good choice because it provides gentler morning light, while a north-facing window can provide consistent indirect light.

Check your plant's position, especially if it's near a south- or west-facing window. Strong direct sunlight can scorch the foliage, leaving brown, crispy, or bleached patches on the leaves. You don't need to move it into a dark corner. Instead, try positioning it a few feet away from a sunny window or filtering the light with a sheer curtain.

If your home doesn't get enough natural light, an LED Grow Light from Amazon can provide supplemental illumination for your peace lily. A compact full-spectrum LED grow light with adjustable brightness and a timer can be particularly convenient for adding consistent light without moving the plant closer to a harsh window.

If your peace lily is producing plenty of healthy foliage but isn't flowering, insufficient light could also be a factor. Aim for a bright room without prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

2. Check the Soil Before Watering

Your peace lily may need water more frequently in August than it did earlier in the summer. Warm indoor temperatures and bright light can cause the potting mix to dry out faster. But don't water according to a rigid schedule. Check the soil first. Push your finger about an inch into the potting mix. If it feels dry, water thoroughly until excess water drains from the bottom of the container. If the soil still feels moist, give it more time.

Choosing the right peace lily potting mix can also make watering easier. Look for a loose, moisture-retentive mix that still allows excess water to drain away. A ready-made option such as Soil Sunrise Peace Lily Potting Soil Mix is formulated specifically for peace lilies and combines moisture retention with drainage. For a more general indoor option, Back to the Roots Organic Indoor Potting Mix contains perlite for aeration and drainage as well as coconut coir for moisture retention.

Peace lilies like evenly moist soil, but they don't like sitting in water. Always empty water that collects in a saucer or decorative cachepot. Poor drainage combined with frequent watering can leave roots waterlogged and contribute to root problems. Using a well-draining mix and a container with drainage holes helps excess water escape rather than remaining around the roots.

3. Don't Panic When the Leaves Droop

The peace lily has a reputation for being wonderfully dramatic when it needs water. A thirsty plant can go from upright and perky to spectacularly wilted surprisingly quickly. If you're trying to revive a drooping peace lily, start by checking the potting mix rather than watering immediately. If the soil is dry, water the plant thoroughly and give it time to recover.

A simple moisture meter can make this check easier, particularly if you're unsure whether the soil is actually dry below the surface. The XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon is an affordable, battery-free option that can help you check moisture levels before watering a peace lily.

However, drooping doesn't always mean thirst. If the potting mix is already wet, resist the urge to water again. Overwatering, poor drainage, root damage or sudden temperature changes can also cause wilting. This is why checking the soil is more useful than treating drooping leaves as an automatic signal to water.

4. Protect It From Summer Heat and Air Conditioning

For many U.S. homes, air conditioning is just as relevant to August plant care as outdoor heat. Avoid placing your peace lily directly beneath an AC vent or where cold air blows continuously across its foliage. Prolonged exposure to dry airflow can contribute to brown leaf tips and stressed-looking leaves. At the same time, don't position the plant beside a hot window or in a room that becomes excessively warm.

If your home is particularly dry, a small humidifier can help add moisture to the air around your peace lily. The LEVOIT Classic 160 humidifier on Amazon is a compact option for bedrooms, offices, and other smaller spaces, with adjustable mist settings that make it easier to maintain a comfortable level of humidity.

In particularly hot parts of the South and Southwest, indoor temperatures can rise considerably near sunny glass. Grouping several houseplants together can also help create a more humid microclimate. A bathroom can be a good location for a peace lily if it has adequate natural light, but keep it away from direct blasts of air conditioning.

5. Give It a Summer Clean and Prune

Peace lily leaves are large, glossy, and quick to collect dust. In August, gently wipe the foliage with a clean, damp cloth, supporting each leaf as you work. Skip leaf-shine products; plain water is enough. A microfiber plant-cleaning glove, such as the CATPAN Plant Cleaning Set from Walmart, can make the job easier.

While cleaning, check the undersides of leaves and where stems meet the soil for pests. August is also a good time to tidy the plant. To prune a peace lily, remove completely yellow, brown or badly damaged leaves with clean, sharp pruners, cutting the stalk close to the base. The Fiskars 6-inch Plant Snips from Amazon are a useful option for precise cuts.

Remove faded flowers too. Once a white spathe turns green or brown, cut the flower stalk back near the base. Don't worry if your peace lily isn't flowering in August; blooming varies with age, light, and growing conditions.

6. Resist the Urge to Repot and Prepare for Fall

There's no need to repot a healthy peace lily simply because August has arrived. Instead, look for signs that the plant has outgrown its container, such as roots emerging from drainage holes, tightly circling roots or potting mix that dries out unusually quickly.

If you need to repot a peace lily, move up by only one pot size. Choose a container with drainage holes and use a well-draining houseplant mix. The Bloem Self-Watering Planter is a practical option because it has drainage holes and a removable saucer for indoor use.

Avoid choosing a pot that's much too large, as excess soil can retain moisture around the roots. As August draws to a close, watch changing light levels too. Your peace lily may eventually need to move closer to a bright window, but keep it protected from intense direct sun.

August care doesn't need to be complicated. Check the soil before watering, protect your peace lily from harsh sun and temperature changes, and keep its leaves clean. With bright, indirect light, consistent moisture, and enough humidity, your plant can stay healthy and lush through summer and into fall.

Most people are very busy during the summer. Family activities, holidays, and social functions all demand our attention, and sometimes the garden is the unfortunate one left behind. Even if you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, you can keep your outdoor space looking good.

To help you put together an achievable summer gardening checklist for when you are short of time, I consulted some experts. They picked their top summer jobs for a homeowner who can commit to gardening for 15 minutes a day in their busy lives. These focused jobs can keep a garden looking pleasant and full of blooms without exhaustive effort.

It is all about figuring out the high-priority tasks for each 15-minute block. Abandon any dreams of clearing the whole garden, but focus on what needs to be done each day. Key jobs like weeding, watering (you can get a soil moisture meter from Amazon), deadheading, feeding, supporting plants, propagating and more can all be done in small windows.

Stop Weeds From Seeding

It may never be the most glamorous or enjoyable task (though I do know some gardeners who love spending time getting rid of weeds), but weeding is always essential in summer.

The adage goes ‘one year of seeds, seven years of weeds’, and it is true that letting weeds set seed creates a snowball effect of issues. To stop future you having to deal with even more weeds, set aside some 15-minute blocks for this task.

‘Pulling weeds before they produce seeds can help prevent thousands of weed seeds from landing in your garden,’ says Justin Hancock, Horticulturist for Costa Farms. ‘And the younger a weed is, the smaller the root system and the easier it is to pull. So even if you just pull a couple of weeds every day, it can make a difference.’

Smaller weeds can be removed quickly with a garden hoe, but older or tap-rooted weeds need a more thorough approach. You need to use a type of weeder that guarantees you remove the entire plant and its roots to prevent it from resprouting. This can be a fork or a hand weeding tool like this at Walmart to lever weeds out of the soil.

As you are only gardening for 15 minutes a day, set realistic goals for weeding. Your borders or raised beds may be weedy, but remain focused on weeding quickly. ‘I would not worry about making every bed spotless, but I would absolutely pull anything that is about to seed,’ adds Alex Wright, the Founder of YardCalc.

Water to Keep Plants Alive

There is no escaping that if you are gardening for 15 minutes a day in summer, much of that time may be taken up by watering plants in hot weather. However, be selective about what you focus on, as some plants need more watering in a heatwave than others.

‘Focus on keeping plants, especially this year's additions, alive,’ recommends Marian Keith, Horticulturist at Newfields in Indianapolis, Indiana. Also, seedlings and plants growing in pots in container gardens need to be at the top of your watering hit-list.

Water deeply to deliver the moisture to the roots. You should ideally water the garden in the morning, so plants have time to hydrate before temperatures rise. You can water in the evening, but take extra care to water the base of the plant, not the foliage.

Alex Wright advocates for proactive planning. He recommends using watering tools or a timer, so this time-consuming task doesn’t take up your 15 minutes of gardening time.

‘Drip irrigation or even a basic hose timer changes the whole equation,’ he says. ‘Watering is super important, especially for containers, raised beds, and new plantings, but it is also one of the easiest garden jobs to automate.

‘If you only have a few minutes a week, I would rather use that time on the things a timer cannot do.’

You can get an automatic timer at Garden in Minutes that has a simple dial for set-up and two outlets – perfect for attaching to drip irrigation, soaker hoses, sprinklers, or just a garden hose.

Deadhead to Extend the Show

Flower beds and container displays may start to look past their best as the first blooms go over. If you can commit time to deadheading flowers during summer, you can extend your display of blooms and keep the garden full of color.

Christina Stembel, founder and CEO of Farmgirl Flowers, admits she often has 15 minutes in the morning and 15 minutes in the evening to garden. She picks tasks according to what needs most attention each day.

‘One day it's deadheading because the blooms are literally dead and failing to remove them will probably prevent a second flush. The next day it's weeding because the weeds are gobbling up all the resources,’ says Christina.

‘Right now, my 15 minutes in the morning is usually spent deadheading to keep our flowers flowering through August and into September.’

Removing the old flowers tidies borders and stops plants putting energy into producing seeds. That energy goes back into developing buds and opening new flowers. If you can find time to deadhead flowers in August, your garden will keep putting on a glorious show for longer.

A pair of pruning snips (such as these Japanese pruning snips on Amazon) or shears is a perfect tool for deadheading. You can snap some blooms off between your fingers and thumb, but you must be careful not to damage any stems or unopened flowers.

Fertilize Plants in Containers

Summer can be taxing for any plants in pots. The warm temperatures mean the limited moisture in the soil disappears quickly, and nutrients quickly leach from the containers. It can leave plants starved and looking past their best in summer.

‘When I have 15 minutes to spare, I turn my attention to my potted plants,’ says Tenielle Jordison, garden content editor at Homes & Gardens. ‘They can start to look a little tired after such a hot summer, so I give them some extra nourishment.’

It shouldn’t take long to rejuvenate container plants and help to keep annual flowers blooming for longer in pots.

‘If the potting mix is hard and compacted, I first gently loosen it with a hand fork. Then, a balanced all-purpose liquid fertilizer (like this TPS one on Amazon) gives my plants a quick boost,’ adds Tenielle.

‘A layer of compost or potting mix can also be helpful, replenishing nutrients and topping up soil that has depleted over time, whether from watering or decomposition.’

You can get a bag of organic potting mix at Burpee to top up containers and give them a late summer boost.

Check For Disease

There can be many potential diseases around in the summer. Warm, humid weather, along with garden watering mistakes like soaking the foliage, leads to common diseases such as powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, blight, and more, which trouble both ornamental and edible plants.

When it comes to diseases or summer garden pests, it is best to act fast and nip problems in the bud to stop them from spreading. As you are out gardening for 15 minutes a day, keep your eyes peeled for fungal coatings on leaves, yellowing foliage, or other markings.

‘Just like with weeds, diseases are easier to deal with if you catch them early,’ says Justin Hancock. ‘Removing an affected leaf at the start of an infection can help stop that infection from spreading further. And it keeps your garden looking better.’

Always clean your pruning tools with sanitizing sprays or wipes (available at Walmart) after removing any diseased leaves, to prevent spreading the issue to other plants.

Alternatively, you can get a ready-to-use copper fungicide at Amazon that gardeners can use to treat many diseases, including mildews, blight, black spot, and more.

Check Plants Are Supported

Christina Stembel adds that another of her regular 15-minute jobs is ‘adding more supports to the dahlias so they don't topple over from the weight of the heads’. While out in the yard, gardeners should also take time to check their plant supports to ensure they are fully protected from wind damage or buckling under the weight of flowers or fruit.

Top-heavy flowers like dahlias, delphiniums, peonies, or phlox, or weighty fruit-bearing crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, or eggplant all need strong supports. Dry soil will contract in the summer and can loosen stakes like bamboo canes or wooden posts. Check that your plant supports are firm in the ground, and push them deeper as required.

These plants can also need new plant ties to keep them supported by the posts. Add any new ties as needed to stop stems snapping and ruining potential flowers or crops. Always use soft plant ties, such as these Velcro garden ties at The Home Depot, and never use wire or hard plastic as they can rub and even snap the stems.

Do Some Quick Propagation to Plug Gaps

Extreme summer heat can take its toll around the garden. If your garden has experienced losses, don’t just rue lost plants. There are new ones you can replace them with.

That list includes heat-tolerant perennials you can plant in August, like coneflowers or black-eyed Susan, to fill gaps and enjoy a fall display. And there are fast-growing flowers to sow in August, like calendula or sweet alyssum, that have time to give you late-season blooms.

Sedum ranks among the former, a low-maintenance perennial you can add for late-summer and fall blooms that will attract pollinators.

Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens, suggests a quick and easy way to grow sedums without needing to head to the garden center and spend money on new plants.

'I've lost quite a few annuals to the heatwave this year, so I've been filling gaps in my containers with a super quick propagation trick,’ she reveals.

‘I snip short, single stems off a lovely trailing sedum, which I love for its blue-grey foliage and tolerance of full sun. I immediately pop them into gaps and sprinkle with water, and within a week I can see new growth.

‘It is the easiest and most reliable plant I have ever multiplied, and it's ideal for right now, when the temperatures are still high.'

You can also take plant cuttings of sedums and start them in pots, rather than place them in the garden. If you only have 15 minutes in the garden, getting new plants for free seems like a very effective use of your time.

What to Shop

If you prefer low-maintenance backyard ideas to intensive gardening, our guide to ‘the 10 minute garden’ might be perfect for you. It features inspirational ideas for a glorious garden that needs just 10 minutes of maintenance a week.

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Coneflowers steal the show during August. Clustered together, in full bloom, they make a dazzling sight with their long petals, in delicious shades of dusky pink, vanilla and soft white shining in contrast against the raised dark centers.

Magnets for bees, butterflies and other pollinators, these sun loving perennials are easy to care for and their appeal lasts long after the petals fade. Not only do their striking seedheads add texture and seasonal interest when left intact on the upright stems but they are packed with nutritious seeds that are highly prized by garden finches, bluejays and cardinals throughout fall and winter.

Knowing how to grow coneflowers (echinacea) - is pretty straightforward but there are some care tasks that should be tackled during August. Equip yourself with sturdy pair of Felco Pruning Snips from Amazon and read more about when to remove and leave fading flowers, damaged stems and other late summer coneflower issues.

Stop Feeding Coneflowers For Healthier Plants

August is the time to stop fertilizing coneflowers, in fact these short-lived perennials should rarely need feeding if the growing conditions are right.

'Native plants adapted to the local region don't need fertilization, especially when grown in healthy soil,' says Head of Native Plant Habitat Strategy at the National Wildlife Federation, Mary Phillips. 'Excess fertilizer can actually encourage lush, weak foliage growth at the expense of blooms. Instead, focus on building healthy soil with organic matter such as compost and leave natural plant material in place where possible.'

Consider the best coneflowers varieties for your plot; there are plenty of irresistible offerings at Burpee, including Butterfly Kisses Echinacea Purpurea.

Work well rotted organic compost such as this R&M compost from Amazon into the soil around the base of the plant or learn how to make compost using your own garden and kitchen waste.

Manage deadheading coneflowers for a smooth transition into fall

Each raised and slightly bristly coneflower centre harbors a surprising number of seeds, presenting the wildlife loving gardener with a tricky dilemma. When is it best to stop deadheading blooms - pausing the formation of future blooms - and leave the seedheads to die back naturally?

'By late summer, it's a good time to start shifting the mindset from maintaining the garden to creating wildlife,' says Mary. 'Rather than cutting coneflowers back as soon as flowers fade, allow the stalks and seedheads to remain standing through fall and winter. They provide food for birds, structure for the garden, and places for insects to shelter and overwinter.'

Can't bear to bid the vibrant blooms goodbye? then selective deadheading can prove a handy compromise, as Mary explains. 'Gardeners who want to extend lowering can selectively deadhead some blooms while leaving others to mature into seedheads.'

Coneflower is one of the best plants for attracting American Goldfinches into your yard. Provide a natural feast for the eyes and seed-eating birds by weaving 'Ruby Star' Coneflower from Nature Hills through a mixed bed of ornamental grasses or fill planters with attention grabbing varieties such as native 'Green Twister' coneflower and the sweeping petals of 'Pale Purple' Coneflower, both from Plant Addicts.

Only Remove Dead Or Diseased Stems

There's no need to routinely cut back coneflower stems at the end the summer. Robbing the plant of late blooms, valuable seedheads and the opportunity to replenish its energy reserves before winter dormancy, experts now advise to leave the plant to die back naturally.

That said, there are exceptions. 'It is important to cut back any diseased or dead steams in Fall or even in Winter dormancy,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage. 'This will help protect the plant against any future infestation or fungal issues the following Spring when the new growth emerges. When cutting back the dead stems, prune to about 1-2 inches above the ground using a clean pruners.'

Hand shears such as these Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears from Walmart will do the job, but remember to limit the spread of any fungal spores by disposing of infected plant material in the household garbage rather than the compost heap.

Stake Coneflower As And When Needed

August is the last month where coneflowers are actively growing, so it pays to let them harvest all the energy they can, to strengthen root systems ready for the dormant season and following spring, when growth resumes.

Although fairly robust plants, occasional summer storms can take their toll and damage stems and foliage. Provide support to help aid stem recovery, as landscape architect Stacilyn Feldman explains.

'If staking is needed, utilize 3-5 stakes around the mass with loose twine. Don’t try to stake each stem, rather stake it in a bunch to retain the strength of the massing,'

While regular bamboo canes such as these from Walmart will do the job, they look very visible. Instead opt for an elegant metal peony support like this from Amazon or rustic spiral plant supports from Agriframes.

Save Some Seeds To Grow On

Coneflowers are prolific seed producers and late summer is the perfect time to harvest them. Whether you are looking to gather and raise your own plants from seed or pass seeds on to friends, it's time to get gathering and discover the seed harvesting mistakes to avoid.

Look for fading blooms with dark, plump and firm central cones, and snip them off with 4-5in (20-22.5cm) stem intact. Place stems upside down in a paper bag, with ends of the stem protruding, secure the bag around the stems with a length of twine a hang in a warm, dry yet well ventilated spot for 1 to 2 weeks.

Once dry, the seeds will fall from the seedhead into the bag. Use these garden tweezers from Walmart to remove the chaff and stems. Store seed until needed in these brown kraft bags with window, from Amazon.

What to Shop

Keep these eye-catching perennials in good shape for next year by learning how to winterize coneflowers in 5 steps.

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Cosmos are at their best in August, filling flower beds and containers with a froth of daisy-like blooms in shades of white, pink, and crimson. If you grew cosmos from seed this year, August is the month when a little attention can keep plants flowering generously well into early fall.

If you want to grow cosmos, you’ll find they are relatively low-maintenance and easy to care for through the summer. There are also plenty of types of cosmos to choose from, offering different flower colors and forms for borders, containers, and cutting gardens.

Rather than fussing over them, concentrate on regular deadheading, watering when necessary, and giving tall plants a little support. These simple August tasks can help keep your plants healthy and flowering for weeks to come.

1. Keep Deadheading Cosmos

One of the most useful jobs to do with cosmos in August is deadheading – and yes, deadheading is one of those simple garden tasks that can make a noticeable difference. Once a flower has faded, snip it off just above a healthy set of leaves or a developing flower bud. A pair of fine garden snips makes this quick and precise.

For a budget-friendly option, the Felco F322 Pruning Snips are designed for precise trimming and are available from Amazon.

Deadheading prevents the plant from putting too much energy into producing seed and encourages it to keep making new flowers. It also keeps plants looking fresh, particularly in flower beds where faded blooms can quickly become noticeable. If you want cosmos to self-seed, however, you don’t need to remove every spent flower. Leave a few seedheads to mature toward the end of summer, particularly if you like the idea of cosmos returning in unexpected places next year.

Another option is the Corona ErgoCUT Dead Header, available from Lowe’s and specifically designed for removing spent flowers.

2. Water During Dry Spells

Established cosmos are reasonably tolerant of dry conditions, but container-grown plants need more regular attention. If you're learning how to water plants in a heatwave, check pots frequently during hot or dry August weather and water thoroughly when the potting mix feels dry. A watering wand, such as the Melnor 8-Pattern Soft Touch Watering Wand from The Home Depot, makes it easy to direct water around the roots without disturbing the plant.

Water at the base rather than over the foliage, ideally in the morning or evening. Cosmos are fairly drought-tolerant once established, but still benefit from a thorough drink during prolonged heat. For smaller containers, the Chapin 2-Gallon Tru-Stream Watering Can from The Home Depot is a practical option. Avoid keeping the potting mix soggy, as cosmos prefer well-drained conditions.

There’s usually no need to feed cosmos growing in the ground if they’re flowering well. Too much high-nitrogen fertilizer can encourage leafy growth at the expense of flowers, so focus on consistent watering during extended dry spells.

3. Support Tall Plants

By August, some cosmos can become impressively tall, particularly if they’re growing in fertile soil. Heavy rain and summer winds can cause them to flop, so check plants regularly and add support before they fall over. The Luster Leaf Link-Ups Grow-Through Round Grid Plant Support from Target is a discreet option that helps keep stems upright, while Bamboo Plant Stakes from Amazon are useful for taller plants that need a little extra support.

Simple stakes, discreet plant supports, or twine can all do the job. Place supports around plants while they’re still upright, rather than trying to lift stems after they’ve collapsed. If you’re growing cosmos in a more informal, cottage-garden-style planting, a little flopping isn’t necessarily a problem. Letting stems lean into neighboring plants can create a relaxed effect, provided they aren’t smothering other flowers.

4. Cut Cosmos for the House

August is an excellent time to cut cosmos for a vase. I like to pick mine in the morning, when the stems are well hydrated and the petals have just opened. I remove the lower leaves and place the stems straight into water, then keep the vase somewhere cool and out of strong sunlight. I also change the water regularly to keep the flowers looking fresh.

For a simple arrangement, a Threshold Tall Glass Vase from Target works well for showing off long cosmos stems, while Floralife Flower Food, available on Amazon, can help extend vase life. I find that regular cutting encourages the plants to produce even more flowering stems, so I don’t hesitate to bring plenty indoors. A generous handful of cosmos makes a pretty late-summer arrangement, either on its own or mixed with other garden flowers.

5. Let Some Seedheads Develop

If you want to grow cosmos again next year, I like to leave a few flowers on the plant to go to seed toward the end of the season. Once the seedheads have dried and turned brown, collect the seeds on a dry day and store them somewhere cool and dry. I find these Glass Mason Jars from Amazon work well for keeping saved seeds dry and labeled until spring.

You can also leave a few seedheads in place and let them shed their seeds naturally. Cosmos can self-seed readily in suitable conditions, although young plants may not appear exactly where you expect them. Keep in mind that some cultivated varieties may not come true from saved seed, so the resulting plants can sometimes differ from the parent.

What Not to Do With Cosmos in August

There’s no need to cut back healthy cosmos simply because they’ve become tall. If your plants are flowering well, leave them be, apart from regular deadheading and a little support for wayward stems. August is also not the time to overfeed them. Cosmos are naturally vigorous, and overly rich soil can encourage lush foliage without giving you more blooms.

Instead, keep your August care simple: deadhead spent flowers, water during prolonged dry spells, support tall stems, and cut blooms regularly for the vase. With these few jobs taken care of, your cosmos can keep flowering well into fall, often until the first frost.

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Relentless summer heat and drought can really take it out of roses. It can leave you with wilted, drooping blooms and scorched foliage. But, with a little TLC you can nurture your roses back to good health and revive them once again.

Growing roses requires some particular care when hot temperatures arrive in summer. Although some types like Knock Out Roses (which you can find at Plant Addicts) are much more tolerant, many roses don't do well in prolonged dry, hot conditions. If yours look tired after a long summer, focus on watering, mulching, and providing some afternoon shade – soon, they'll bounce back.

The most important thing is to not to stress your rose further by making some common mistakes, especially around pruning and fertilizing. Here, we talk through how to successfully revive roses after a heatwave.

1. Water Deeply

When a heatwave hits, soil dries out quickly. For roses which prefer consistent moisture, this can cause dehydration.

'Stressed roses can be encouraged back to healthy growth by thoroughly hydrating them,' says Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'It's important to soak the root ball by giving roses a deep watering – providing just a slight sprinkling of water simply won’t suffice. You should ideally give them at least five liters of water each time after a heatwave, and continue to water deeply every few days until the temperatures return to normal,' Drew advises.

'Where you can, water in the morning so the roses have hours to take the moisture in before the temperatures rise. Roses in containers will need more regular watering, potentially daily,' he continues.

When watering roses, aim at the base of the plant to avoid splashing on the foliage, which can cause rose diseases to spread like black spot and powdery mildew.

'In extreme cases, you can place the whole container into a large bucket of water. If you are using a watering can or garden hose, give the plant enough moisture that the water starts draining out of the holes at the base of the pot,' Drew adds.

'Keep checking the moisture levels a few inches under the surface, either with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon), and if it feels dry, water the rose.'

2. Add Mulch

The next step is to ensure your rose doesn't lose moisture too quickly, especially if temperatures are still high. One of the best ways to do this is by mulching.

You want to put down 2-3" of compost, bark chip, or something like this Lowe's brown mulch around the base of your rose. Though, you should avoid putting it right up against the rose's base, as it can cause rot.

This will help lock in moisture, keeping roots hydrated. It will also help regulate soil temperature to reduce heat stress.

There are lots of other types of mulch to choose from, many of which you can source from your own garden for free.

3. Avoid Pruning

When your rose is already showing signs of stress, it's best not to prune your rose heavily. As tempting as it is to remove the unsightly scorched and discolored leaves, trimming your plant now could cause it more harm.

In fact, if another heatwave is forecast in the next few weeks, hold off on removing any foliage. Partially scorched leaves can provide shade and shield healthy foliage from the sun.

If you do want to do a bit of tidying, focus on removing the fully brown, damaged stems, leaves, and blooms. You should use clean and sharp pruning snips (like these Fiskars pruning shears on Amazon) to do this.

Take care to wear thorn-proof gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) to protect your arms when tending to roses.

4. Shield It From Sun

If there's one thing your rose doesn't need after being stressed by the sun, it's even more intense sun and heat. For this reason, it's important to shield it during the hottest part of the day in the early afternoon.

If you're growing your rose in a pot, you can move it to a shadier spot.. Avoid a heat-reflecting wall and scorching pavers, as this can have the opposite effect and trap heat around your rose.

For ground-planted roses, consider installing a shade cloth (like this from Amazon) or even an umbrella to provide temporary garden shade.

5. Don't Fertilize

While there is an opportunity to fertilize roses mid-summer after the first flush of blooms, it's best to hold off in a heatwave and while your plant is recovering.

When the soil is hot and dry, a build-up of salt from the fertilizer can cause root burn and weaken your rose even more.

Not only this, but giving your rose a boost of essential plant nutrients can encourage new leafy growth that is susceptible to heat and drought stress.

Instead, focus on watering your rose deeply to rehydrate it. You could even use these self-watering terracotta spikes on Amazon to provide more consistent moisture.

What to Shop

It's never too early to start planning for winterizing your roses. Just like extreme heat, extreme frost can also wipe out your roses. You may want to invest in a frost cloth (like this from Amazon), for example.

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Agapanthus is one of the standout stars of the late-summer garden, producing elegant globe-shaped blooms in shades of blue, purple, and white just as many other perennials begin to fade. While these plants are still putting on a show in August, now is the perfect time to give them a little attention if you want an even better display next year.

Whether you're just learning how to grow agapanthus or already have established clumps in your yard, a few simple maintenance jobs this month will help extend flowering, strengthen the plant before dormancy, and encourage healthier growth for the season ahead. The same care applies whether your agapanthus is growing in the ground or in containers.

If you're inspired to expand your collection, now is also a great time to make a note of the best agapanthus varieties that have performed well in your area, so you can add new plants to your garden in spring or fall, depending on your USDA hardiness zone.

1. Deadhead Spent Flowers

One of the easiest August jobs is to deadhead agapanthus as the faded flower heads begin to finish blooming. Removing spent blooms helps the plant direct its energy into strengthening the roots rather than producing seeds, which can support healthier growth and better flowering next season.

Using clean, sharp pruners, cut each spent flower stem back to the base without damaging the surrounding foliage. A reliable pair of pruning shears, such as the Fiskars Bypass Pruning Shears, makes it easy to create clean cuts while protecting the plant.

If you'd like to collect seed or leave the decorative seed heads for late-season interest, allow a few blooms to mature naturally. For smaller trimming jobs and precise cuts, Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Snips, available from Amazon, are another handy tool to keep in your gardening kit.

2. Water During Hot, Dry Weather

Established agapanthus is fairly drought-tolerant once mature, but flowering plants still benefit from deep watering during extended periods of heat, especially across hotter parts of the U.S.

Water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil become dry rather than watering little and often. Deep watering encourages stronger root growth and helps support flowering through the hottest weeks of summer. Container-grown agapanthus will usually need more frequent watering than plants growing in garden beds, as pots dry out much more quickly.

Always allow excess water to drain freely to avoid waterlogged roots. For more consistent watering, a GARDENA AquaZoom Oscillating Sprinkler, available from Amazon, can help deliver even coverage across garden beds without creating areas of standing water, making it useful during prolonged dry spells.

3. Give It One Final Feeding

If you've been feeding your plants throughout the growing season, August is usually the last month to fertilize agapanthus before growth begins to slow. Giving your plants one final feed now helps replenish energy reserves while supporting healthy roots and next year's flowers. Apply a balanced fertilizer, or one slightly higher in potassium, to support flowering, then stop feeding by late August or early September. Continuing to fertilize into fall can encourage tender new growth that's more susceptible to cold damage.

A balanced granular feed such as Espoma Garden-Tone Organic Plant Food, available from Amazon, is a good choice for established agapanthus growing in borders, providing slow-release nutrients through the end of the growing season. If you're growing agapanthus in containers, Miracle-Gro Water Soluble Bloom Booster Flower Food is another great option, delivering a potassium-rich boost before it's time to stop feeding for the year.

4. Check for Pests and Diseases

Late summer is a good opportunity to inspect your plants for summer pests before the growing season comes to an end. Alongside common problems such as aphids and slugs, gardeners should also keep an eye out for agapanthus gall midge, a tiny pest whose larvae feed inside developing flower buds, causing them to become swollen, distorted, and fail to open. Look out for:

• Slugs and snails feeding on foliage
• Aphids gathering around flower stems
• Agapanthus gall midge causing distorted or unopened flower buds
• Yellowing leaves caused by poor drainage
• Signs of crown or root rot in consistently wet soil

Removing damaged growth and dealing with problems early will help keep plants healthy heading into fall. For slugs and snails, Sluggo Snail & Slug Killer, available from Amazon, is a popular pet-friendly bait for protecting ornamental plants. If aphids become a problem, Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap, available on Amazon, can be used on ornamental plants to control soft-bodied insects when applied according to the label directions.

5. Resist the Urge to Divide

If your agapanthus is looking crowded, it's usually best to wait before you divide plants. In much of the U.S., spring is the ideal time to divide evergreen agapanthus, while gardeners in warmer USDA Zones 8–11 may also divide deciduous varieties in early fall after flowering has finished.

Dividing during the heat of August can place unnecessary stress on the plant and reduce next year's flowering. Fortunately, agapanthus often blooms best when slightly root-bound, so frequent division isn't necessary unless the clump has become overcrowded or flowering has noticeably declined.

6. Prepare Container Plants for Cooler Weather

If you're growing agapanthus in containers, August is a good time to think ahead to winter protection. Gardeners in USDA Zones 8–11 can usually leave hardy agapanthus outdoors year-round. In colder regions, however, container-grown plants are more vulnerable because their roots aren't insulated by the surrounding soil, so plan to move pots into a sheltered garage, greenhouse, or other frost-free location before hard freezes arrive.

Checking containers now for good drainage and deciding where they'll overwinter makes the seasonal transition much easier. If moving large pots is likely to be a challenge, a plant caddy with locking wheels, such as the Bosmere Down Under Plant Caddie available from Amazon, can make it much easier to relocate heavy containers when colder weather arrives.

FAQs

Should I Cut Back Agapanthus in August?

Do not cut back agapanthus in August. Instead, deadhead spent flower stems as they fade, but leave the healthy foliage in place. The leaves continue to photosynthesize after flowering, storing energy in the roots that will fuel next year's blooms. Wait until the foliage naturally turns yellow or brown in fall before cutting it back, as removing green leaves too early can reduce flowering the following season.

Can I Plant Agapanthus in August?

In warmer parts of the U.S., container-grown agapanthus can be planted successfully in August if it's watered regularly while establishing. In colder regions, spring is generally a better planting time, giving roots several months to establish before winter.

With just a little attention in August, your agapanthus will finish the growing season in excellent health and store the energy it needs for another spectacular floral display next summer. Deadheading, watering wisely, and preparing plants for the changing seasons now are simple jobs that can make a noticeable difference when your agapanthus bursts back into bloom next year.

After years of working in gardens across Britain and Italy, I have developed a real appreciation for plants that quietly get on with the job. I think often about the old fruit trees I cared for in Tuscany: gnarled figs growing on dry stone terraces, pomegranates thriving in enormous terracotta pots and persimmons that had seemingly been left to their own devices for decades. Never fussed over, rarely watered and certainly never fertilized .

Of course, no fruit tree is completely maintenance free. All trees in our yards benefit from careful watering during the first few years, while establishing a healthy root system, and the occasional prune or feed will always improve growth and harvests. But some species are naturally resilient and tough, shrugging off drought, poor soils and periods of neglect.

So, if you are looking for resilient trees that quietly reward you with delicious harvests year after year, to plant alongside perennials you can plant once and ignore, these are seven of my favourite fruit trees that thrive on neglect. One of my favorites from this list is the olive, and I've found a perfect Arbequina olive variety from Fast Growing Trees.

1. Fig

If anyone asks me to recommend a fruit tree for a busy gardener, I almost always say fig. Native to the Mediterranean and western Asia, figs are wonderfully resilient once established, tolerating drought, poor soils and long, hot summers with remarkably little intervention.

In my family's garden in South Wales, our 'Brown Turkey' has quietly got on for years, asking for little more than a sunny position and well-drained soil. I grew this from a small cutting in 2022, and today, it stands at about five feet.

Live 'Brown Turkey' fig trees are available to order now from Amazon.

Hardy down to US zone 7, figs perform best in full sun and reward even a modest amount of care with sweet fruit in late summer.

Deep watering during prolonged drought will improve fruit production, but otherwise, figs are happiest when left largely alone. Just avoid heavy, waterlogged soils, which they dislike far more than dry conditions.

2. Persimmon

In Tuscany, we had several old persimmon trees growing at the back of the property, tucked amongst vines and wildflowers, and, despite years of apparent neglect, they produced heavy crops every fall.

They were never watered, never fed and were rarely pruned. We simply waited until November, picked the glowing (almost fluorescent) orange fruits and let them finish ripening indoors.

Hardy from US zones 7 to 10, persimmons are remarkably resilient once established. Their deep root systems help them cope with dry summers. They perform best in full sun but will also tolerate a little afternoon shade in warmer regions.

If you are looking for the easiest option, self-fertile varieties such as 'Fuyu', available now at Perfect Plants and sold via Amazon, are a good place to start.

3. Pomegranate