A Virginia sweetspire is not traditionally a shrub for a container, but there are compact varieties that can bring seasonal interest and attract pollinators into a smaller space. The native shrub will make a strong impression in a container on a deck or patio, but will require a little extra maintenance.

When you grow Virginia sweetspire in pots, it stays more compact and contained, rather than spreading and suckering like it does when growing in the ground. It can offer white, fragrant, arching blooms in late spring to mid-summer, followed by fiery shades of fall foliage.

If you want a low-maintenance shrub that offers year-round interest and is popular with bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds, why not consider a Virginia sweetspire? Here we look at how to grow Virginia sweetspire in pots, including five key areas to get right for happy shrubs and stunning displays.

1. Pick a Compact Variety

Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) is a native plant to North America. There are various cultivated varieties to pick from that can grow up to eight feet tall.

However, if you want to grow Virginia sweetspire in pots, there are fantastic compact varieties suitable for smaller gardens and more suited to container growing.

This includes the likes of ‘Little Henry’, ‘Merlot’, and ‘Scentlandia’.

You can get a Virginia sweetspire ‘Little Henry’ plant at Nature Hills that reaches 2-4 feet and is popular thanks to its white blooms in late spring and dramatic fall foliage.

2. Fill a Large Container With Quality Soil

Start with a container at least 12 inches wide and deep. You can pot up the shrub into larger containers as it grows, but start smaller and work up. If you put it straight into an oversized pot, the soil can hold too much moisture, and cause root rot.

The container can be any material, but it needs a drainage hole in the bottom so that excess moisture can escape.

Fill the container with a light, moisture-retentive, well-draining potting mix.

Virginia sweetspires can grow in various soil types, but in a container, fertility and drainage are key. Pick a soil-based potting mix (like this organic potting mix at Amazon) or add some compost to a soilless potting mix.

3. Give the Plant Light

Where you place a Virginia sweetspire will affect flowering and the fall color, so it is an important aspect to get right.

An advantage of Virginia sweetspire in pots is that you can move the container around the yard to ensure the shrub gets as much sun as possible throughout the seasons.

The plant does best growing in full sun, but can tolerate partial shade. It wants at least 4-6 hours of sunlight a day. Though the more you can give it, the better.

More sun will reward you with better flowers and a more vivid fall color. However, if you live in warmer climates, such as the hottest southern US hardiness zones, the shrub will benefit from some afternoon shade. In such zones, pick a spot with morning sun and some respite from the intense afternoon sun.

4. Water and Feed It Regularly

There are advantages to growing Virginia sweetspire in pots. But the compromise to being able to enjoy the seasonal displays and attracting pollinators to smaller spaces is that you will need to be more hands-on with maintenance.

Watering and fertilizing are two key areas that will need a bit more attention than when the shrubs are growing in the ground.

The shrub typically grows in wetter soils, such as near riverbanks or swamps. This preference for moister soil means gardeners will need to water regularly when the shrubs are in a pot. In summer, it may mean deep watering every day or two to keep the soil consistently moist during hotter months.

To fertilize the shrubs, use a balanced granular fertilizer in the spring, such as this all-purpose plant food at Burpee. Continue to feed with a liquid fertilizer (like this water-soluble plant food at Amazon) when you water plants every two weeks through the rest of spring and summer.

5. Prune to Keep It Compact

You can prune Virginia sweetspire in pots to keep them more compact and looking shapely in the container.

As the shrub flowers on old wood, you prune it after flowering in early summer. This gives the shrub time to develop wood and buds to carry next year’s display. You don’t want to prune in spring, as you’ll just remove that year’s flowers.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears to remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, and gently trim back branches to keep a neat, compact shape.

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Gardeners should consider pollinators in all their backyard ideas, from pots on a deck to flower beds to boundaries. When it comes to hedging plants, our guide to the best hedges for pollinators reveals the best options for any bustling wildlife garden.

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Forsythia shrubs put on a scintillating early spring display of bright yellow blooms. Once this fades, it is time for a few core maintenance tasks. Understanding what to do with forsythia in April sets the shrub up for a repeat performance next spring.

April is a prime time to prune, fertilize, and then mulch forsythia shrubs. This trio of tasks encourages lots of healthy new growth to carry next spring’s performance of blooms. You may also need to water shrubs during dry periods, and there is an opportunity to propagate new ones.

When you grow forsythia in your garden, always remember that April is a good time to head out and give your shrub some care and attention. It’ll reward you with another show-stopping display of flowers next spring to brighten up any cold, crisp early spring days. Here are the important jobs to add to this month’s to-do list:

1. Prune After Flowering

Forsythia is one of the earliest spring-flowering shrubs, bursting into bloom from February to April, depending on your location.

As an early bloomer that flowers on last year’s growth, pruning forsythia post-blooming is the most vital job to do this month. Cutting the shrub back in April gives it lots of time to develop growth and buds for next spring’s display.

Once you see the old flower petals dropping, pick up the pruning shears and head outside to trim. Don’t wait until it is too late to prune forsythia, as cutting late in spring or summer can impact next year’s flowers.

Use clean, sharp pruning tools for trimming this month. For example. I have had a trusty pair of Felco F2 pruning shears for a decade now. It is durable, reliable, and has seen me through many pruning years, and you can get a pair Felco F2 shears at Amazon.

Start by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased stems from the forsythia. Some older, woody stems can be trimmed out to open up the center and allow for lots of air and light to reach the interior of the shrub.

Then, this year’s flowering stems can be cut back by up to a half to shape the shrub and encourage fresh, productive new growth.

2. Feed After Pruning

Early flowering takes a lot of energy out of a forsythia. The shrubs will benefit from a pick-me-up by fertilizing after trimming to give them a valuable dose of essential nutrients to spur growth to carry next year’s flowers.

A perfect product to fertilize the shrubs is a balanced, slow-release product, with an NPK of 10-10-10 or similar, such as this all-purpose plant food at Amazon.

Sprinkle the product at the recommended rate around the shrub, incorporate the granules into the top inch of the soil, and water thoroughly to activate the ingredients.

3. Mulch After Fertilizing

After pruning and fertilizing shrubs, the next job on any spring gardening checklist for forsythia should be mulching around them. It is a good idea to mulch with organic matter to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and provide nutrients as it breaks down.

Use organic mulch, such as compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or bark chippings, and add a layer two to three inches deep. One example of such a product is this all-natural pine bark mulch at Lowe’s. Compost is always a great option, whether you make compost at home or purchase bags, such as this composted cow manure, from Amazon.

Spread the mulch over the roots of the shrub, but leave a clear ring a few inches around the forsythia’s base. Piling organic matter against the shrub’s stems is a mulching mistake, as it can lead to rotting.

Water as Required

April can be an ideal time to plant new forsythia shrubs, and they will need regular deep watering to help them establish in their new home.

Once established, forsythia are fairly drought-tolerant shrubs. However, they may need watering during particularly dry Aprils, especially in warmer climates.

The soil should be consistently moist, but not waterlogged, as forsythia can be prone to disease or rot when sitting in saturated soil for long periods. Consider investing in a soil moisture meter, such as this soil moisture meter at Amazon, to help decide when to water and reduce the risk of overwatering outdoor plants.

If you grow forsythia in pots as part of a container garden, these will need more watering in spring than in-ground shrubs to supply sufficient moisture for strong early-season growth.

Propagate by Layering

The most common way to propagate new forsythia shrubs is by taking cuttings. This is not a task for April, but there is scope to start propagating new shrubs by layering this month. This is a slower process that can be started in spring, using low-growing, flexible stems you bend down to touch the ground.

Scrape away some bark with a sharp knife at the point where the stem meets the ground, and peg it down using wire or landscape staples (you can get staples at Amazon). Cover the section with soil, keep it moist, and leave it for between a few months and a year to develop roots.

Next spring, you can cut the rooted section away and plant elsewhere in the garden or into a pot.

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We touched upon cuttings, and taking softwood cuttings is best done in late spring when there is lots of fresh growth to choose from. Alternatively, you can take semi-ripe cuttings of forsythia shrubs from midsummer.

Our guide to how to take forsythia cuttings talks you through the process, showing you how to take summer semi-ripe cuttings to get new shrubs for free to add to your garden.

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Azaleas can make a stunning addition to any smaller space. Knowing how to grow azaleas in pots allows you to enjoy their spring displays, glossy foliage, and fall color in gardens of any size. Indeed, they are low-maintenance shrubs, provided you get a few key factors correct.

Pots not only open up opportunities to grow azaleas if you aren’t blessed with large beds or borders, but, as acid-loving plants, containers can be an ideal solution if you have alkaline soil. Getting that soil right is key to success, along with picking the right variety, pot size, and location to ensure your shrubs thrive.

Any shrubs in containers require a bit more care and attention than when in the ground. But that shouldn’t put you off. To reveal how to grow azaleas in pots, I chatted with two azalea experts to show how you can easily create the perfect conditions for healthy flowering shrubs and beautiful displays.

Can Azaleas Grow in Pots?

Yes, you can grow azaleas in pots in many different climates and spaces. With the National Gardening Bureau naming 2026 the ‘Year of the Azalea’, there is no better time to add one to your yard. Provided you get the following right, you can enjoy beautiful displays from the shrubs in containers.

1. Pick the Right Type of Azalea

There are reputedly over 10,000 cultivars and hybrids of azaleas in existence worldwide. Among that wide variety are lots of compact types, which make the best azaleas for pots.

These types offer all the beauty of larger azaleas, but in a compact size. Dwarf varieties, which you may see sold as ‘patio azaleas’, are much easier to grow in a container garden, and you will find both evergreen and deciduous types.

Encore azaleas are perfect for pots. These types grow to just 2-3 feet tall and are bred to rebloom. You get a beautiful spring display, followed by more flushes of blooms in summer and fall.

You can get an Autumn Bonfire® Encore® Azalea Shrub at Fast Growing Trees that impresses with bright red flowers throughout the year.

2. Choose the Perfect Pot

To successfully grow azaleas in pots, choosing the right pot is critical. There are a few important factors to get right, primarily concerning size and drainage.

When it comes to size, don’t go too large. Jim Putnam, plant expert on behalf of Encore Azalea, says the plants need ‘room to grow’ but can suffer if the pot is oversized, as the soil sits too wet.

‘I typically recommend a container that’s 2–4” wider than the root ball to start. From there, the size can be increased as needed over time,’ says the azalea expert.

‘Azaleas have shallow, fibrous roots, so width matters more than depth. A wider container, such as an azalea pot, is always better than a deep, narrow one,' he adds.

To ensure good drainage, any container must have drainage holes in the bottom for excess moisture to escape. To further boost the drainage, Kathy Jentz, editor of The Azalean for the Azalea Society of America, adds: ‘You can also elevate pots on bricks or pot-feet to ensure it keeps draining properly.’

The pot can be any material, but opting for ceramic or terracotta pots will allow air circulation and prevent the soil from staying too wet. You can get a premium handmade Tuscan terracotta planter at Wayfair for an azalea that can bring beauty and warmth to any garden.

3. Use the Correct Soil

Azaleas prefer a more acidic soil, with a pH of 4.5-5.5. Most potting soils commonly sold in garden centers or online are more neutral, usually with a soil pH of 5.5-7.

This is not ideal for growing azaleas, so Jim Putnam offers two options to ensure you create a perfect environment for the shrubs – and one is likely easier and more appealing to many home gardeners.

‘In containers, use a high-quality potting mix blended with shredded pine bark. That will add necessary drainage while still holding enough moisture,’ he says.

‘Another great choice would be a potting mix labeled for azaleas, camellias, or rhododendrons.’

A bag such as this natural planting soil for acid-loving plants at Amazon offers the simplest way to fill containers with a soil type perfectly suitable for your azaleas.

4. Place It in Part Shade

Azaleas have somewhat specific needs that must be accommodated for them to thrive. The advantage of growing azaleas in pots is that you can move the containers around to pick the perfect spot for them in the yard.

You should plant azaleas in partial or dappled shade. Kathy Jentz highlights a spot with ‘4-6 hours of morning sun and afternoon shade’ as a perfect spot for a happy azalea.

Shade is especially important in hotter climates, as too much direct sun can cause leaf scorch and stress the shrub. Never plant an azalea in direct sun in warmer US hardiness zones.

Depending on your US hardiness zone, you may need to overwinter azaleas to ensure they survive year-round in pots. The roots are more exposed in containers, so they may need insulating against winter temperatures.

‘Azaleas in containers can overwinter without any protection in USDA Hardiness Zones 7 and higher,’ advises Kathy. ‘If you are in Zone 6 or lower, you may wish to group the containers against a wall or fence out of direct winds.

‘Alternatively, you can sink them in a hole in your compost pile or wrap them loosely in burlap and fill in around them with leaves. You can also add extra mulch on the soil surface around the azalea's root zones in the container.’

5. Be Careful With Watering

Azaleas in pots will need regular watering, especially during the summer. To care for azaleas in the summer, it is recommended to keep a close eye on the shrubs to keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.

‘Monitor how much rain you have and only water it if needed,’ says Kathy. ‘Most azaleas will need an inch of rain or water per week.’

As mentioned earlier, azaleas have shallow, fibrous roots, so the soil must not be allowed to dry out completely. You can check moisture levels under the soil surface with your fingers, or use a soil moisture meter to see whether you need to water plants.

As for a good watering regime, Jim recommends: ‘Water thoroughly, then let the top inch or so dry slightly before watering again. It’s better to water deeply and less often than to keep the soil soggy all the time.’

It is best to harvest rainwater and use that to water azaleas, as tap water can be too alkaline for the shrubs. You can use a rain barrel or rain chain to collect rainwater, or see this guide on harvesting rainwater without a gutter for some novel ways to gather this valuable natural resource.

Finally, you should fertilize azaleas growing in pots in spring and summer. Use a slow-release food specially formulated for acid-loving plants, such as this organic Azalea-tone plant food at Amazon.

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You may wonder, do you need to deadhead azalea flowers during the season? Well, the answer is yes and no, and here’s why.

Deadheading azaleas doesn’t encourage new blooms like other shrubs (such as deadheading roses), but it does preserve the attractive look of the plant. It all depends on whether you mind the look of brown, spent blooms or prefer a cleaner azalea.

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If you want to fill a small space with large spring blooms and evergreen glossy foliage, look no further than compact varieties of azaleas. These naturally dwarf types are the best azaleas for pots, and here’s why.

They may be smaller in stature but offer all the stunning beauty of larger azaleas, plus more. Types like Encore and Perfecto Mundo azaleas are rebloomers that’ll flower in both spring, summer, and fall, while dwarf Japanese azaleas can be ultra-compact and will grow as bonsai in containers.

Here we reveal five of the best azaleas for pots, and what makes them a great addition to your yard. If you want to grow azaleas but lack a large space, all of these varieties are perfectly suited to container life and can make outstanding low-maintenance additions to brighten any container garden for years to come.

1. Encore Azaleas

Encore azaleas are compact, reblooming evergreen shrubs. They will burst into flower across three seasons, in spring, summer, and fall. First comes a dramatic spring display, followed by other flushes of flowers in late summer and through fall.

There are different varieties of Encore azaleas suited for containers, but one really dramatic option is ‘Autumn Bonfire’. This is one of the best azaleas for pots, as it grows to 2-3 feet tall and dazzles with vivid red flowers. It will have a variety of single and semi-double blooms that stand out against the shrub’s bright green leaves.

Dwarf azaleas for containers want ericaceous compost to thrive and a part-shade position. Use a potting soil formulated for azaleas, such as this soil for acid-loving plants at Amazon.

You can get an Autumn Bonfire® Encore® Azalea Shrub at Fast Growing Trees

2. Kurume Azaleas

Kurume azaleas are dense, compact shrubs that originate from the slopes of Mount Kirishima on Kyushu, Japan’s southernmost island. The shrubs have a dense growing habit, which makes them popular for bonsai.

Kurume azaleas reach 4-6 feet, but can be kept more compact in a container. They have small trumpet-shaped flowers that appear profusely in spring and small, glossy foliage.

A particularly stunning variety is a Hino Crimson Kurume Azalea, which became the top kurume azalea after its introduction into the US in the 1940s. It is one of the hardiest evergreen azaleas, and will impress with crimson-red flowers in mid-spring, which will attract hummingbirds and other pollinators.

During the flowering display, you can deadhead azalea flowers to keep the shrub looking in top shape.

Deadheading may not reward you with lots of new blooms, but brown flowers can take away from the overall look. If you prefer a neat shrub, remove faded blooms with a pair of pruning snips, like these straight-edged Felco pruning snips at Walmart.

You can get a live Hino Crimson Kurume Azalea Shrub at Nature Hills

3. Perfecto Mundo Azaleas

The Proven Winners brand of plants is known for quality shrubs, and it offers several compact azaleas as part of its Perfecto Mundo series. There are pink, red, white, purple, and orange azaleas in the series, but none stand out more than the Perfecto Mundo Double Pink azalea.

It has to be considered one of the best azaleas for pots, as it reaches just 2-3 feet and can bloom from spring through to the frost. The rebloomer produces big double-pink blooms, with one flush in spring followed by a longer flower display from midsummer into fall. Perfecto Mundo Double Pink is also resistant to lacebugs and azalea diseases.

Perfecto Mundo Double Pink blooms on old wood in spring, then new wood later in the season. Prune the azalea quickly after the spring display to encourage new growth and further blooms.

It is also advisable to fertilize azaleas in early spring, and again after the first flush of blooms. Use a granular shrub feed, such as this azalea, camellia, and rhododendron plant food at Amazon.

You can get a Proven Winners® Perfecto Mundo® Double Pink Azalea Shrub at Fast Growing Trees.

4. Delaware Valley White Azalea

A Delaware Valley White Azalea is a hybrid variety that grows to a maximum of four feet in 10 years, though it will stay more compact in a container.

It produces gorgeous single white trumpet-shaped flowers in spring. The blooms fill a deck or patio with a perfumed scent and attract bees and butterflies. The deep olive-green foliage turns a golden yellow color in the fall for additional seasonal interest.

A Delaware Valley White Azalea is hardy down to US hardiness zone 5; however, shrubs in containers are more susceptible to cold.

To protect container plants from winter weather, move the pots to a sheltered area or cover the pots with insulating material, such as frost cloth, burlap, or winter pot covers, like these frost protection covers at Amazon, to help overwinter azaleas in pots.

You can get a Delaware Valley White Azalea Shrub at Fast Growing Trees.

5. Satsuki Azaleas

Azaleas can make attractive and simple bonsai trees. If you want to try caring for such a bonsai tree, a Satsuki azalea makes a perfect choice. Satsuki azaleas are very compact, slow-growing, and among the best azaleas for pots.

They are not just suitable for bonsai; you can simply grow one in a small container. The compact azaleas reach a maximum of four feet (though they will stay smaller in pots) and produce large flowers for a shrub of their stature. These blooms appear from April to June, and different varieties come in shades of white, pink, red, or purple.

Satsuki azaleas are not as hardy as other varieties listed here; they are suitable for zones 7-9. Gardeners in colder climates will need to overwinter plants indoors to ensure they survive the colder months.

You can get a live Satsuki Azalea Bonsai Tree at Amazon, complete with pot and humidity tray

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Many of the most popular flowering shrubs can be grown in pots, if you pick the right varieties for a limited space. For example, you can grow hydrangeas in pots successfully if you pick compact varieties and place them in a part-shade spot in your yard.

If that sounds tempting, our guide to the best hydrangeas for small spaces showcases five compact varieties that can thrive in containers.

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Serviceberry, or amelanchier, is a deciduous, spring-flowering tree or shrub that offers year-round interest in the form of profuse spring blossom, edible berries, and bright fall foliage. It also attracts lots of wildlife to a yard, with many bird species known to eat the berries. Compact varieties of serviceberry can offer all this beauty growing in pots in small spaces, provided you get the conditions right.

If you want to grow a serviceberry in a pot, there are some important points to consider. As well as picking compact forms of these under-rated trees, you also need a large pot, slightly acidic soil, a sunny corner of a deck or patio, and regular watering and feeding. It may sound tricky, but in reality, it isn’t difficult. Get the basics right, and you can have happy shrubs for years.

This guide looks in-depth at how to grow serviceberry in pots, deep-diving into each of the aforementioned aspects to help you have healthy, thriving shrubs and a fantastic seasonal display in a container garden.

1. Pick a Compact Variety

Even a dwarf or compact serviceberry can make a stunning tree for spring blossom. Many serviceberries are native plants to North America and can grow between three and eight feet tall.

These are ideal varieties for growing in containers in smaller spaces, compared with larger-growing trees that reach up to 30 feet.

The dwarf serviceberry (Amelanchier spicata), varieties of saskatoon serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia), or Amelanchier laevis 'Snowflakes' are all suitable for container growing.

They are low-maintenance small trees that remain compact and can put on a lovely display in containers in a small garden, or on a deck or patio.

You can get live Amelanchier alnifolia plants at Amazon

2. Use a Large Container

Even compact shrubs for containers benefit from larger pots. They need sizable containers to prevent a 4-6-foot shrub from topping over as the plant grows, especially during windy weather.

Start by planting a serviceberry into a container 18-24 inches wide and deep. Any pot must have drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain away and prevent root rot.

As the serviceberry shrub matures, it may need repotting every few years into a larger container. A large terracotta planter like this handmade Tuscan roll rim planter at Wayfair can be a beautiful, sturdy option for a serviceberry shrub.

Best practise is to pot plants up into slightly larger pots as they mature, rather than using a huge container right away. This avoids excess soil that holds lots of water, which increases the risk of rot.

3. Use Ericaceous Soil

Any chosen container wants to be filled with a light, well-draining potting soil formulated for container gardening. The key with a serviceberry in a pot is to pick an ericaceous loam-based potting compost, as the shrubs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.

You can get a bag of planting soil for acid-loving plants at Amazon that is formulated for a low pH to suit those that prefer slightly acidic conditions.

If you opt for a more general-purpose potting mix, there are ways to make the soil more acidic. These include adding homemade compost, aluminium sulfate, or coffee grounds, which can help lower the pH over time.

4. Give the Plant Sun

A serviceberry in a pot likes sun and will perform best in a spot that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight a day. The plant can tolerate part-shade, but the flowering and fruiting will be affected. Less sunlight will mean less flowering and fewer berries.

An ideal spot could be a south-facing garden deck or patio, somewhere without large periods of shade from overhanging trees, buildings, or neighboring fences.

Gardeners in warmer southern climates may prefer to locate their containers in a spot that provides afternoon shade. The plant can get a respite from scorching afternoon sun, and it can reduce how often you need to water to keep the soil moist during the summer.

5. Water and Feed Regularly

Watering and feeding are key to successfully growing serviceberry in pots, especially to keep plants happy for years. A key point to remember is that plants in containers dry out faster than those in the ground, especially during warm summers. You need to check plants in containers regularly to keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged.

When watering plants in containers, check the moisture level a few inches under the soil surface. This can be done with your fingers or a soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon), and you water deeply if the soil feels dry. Water the container until excess moisture runs out of the drainage holes.

To keep the soil more acidic, it is advisable to harvest rainwater. As rainwater typically has a slightly acidic pH, using this natural resource when you water plants helps keep conditions perfect for serviceberry.

When it comes to fertilizing, use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring formulated for acid-loving plants, such as this 8-4-8 acidic fertilizer at Amazon. In addition, a liquid fertilizer, such as this Miracle-Gro plant food, also at Amazon, can be used for supplemental feedings throughout the growing season.

What to Shop

Serviceberries can be hardy down to US hardiness zone 2, depending on the species, but the roots of container plants are more vulnerable to cold.

Gardeners in colder climates may need to protect container plants from winter weather by moving them to a sheltered spot or wrapping potted plants for winter with horticultural fleece or burlap. It is also advisable to use pot feet (such as these no-slip pot feet at Walmart) to lift the container off the ground and improve the drainage to prevent waterlogging over winter.

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If you are after a native shrub that you can grow in containers to put on a dazzling year-round show, plus attract pollinators, then look no further than ninebark (Physocarpus). We reveal the key factors for growing ninebark in containers successfully so you can enjoy healthy shrubs and stunning displays.

Compact varieties of ninebark are perfect for containers and can offer dramatic foliage, gorgeous dome-shaped flowers, and the shrub’s striking peeling bark. Picking smaller varieties is key to perfecting ninebark in containers, along with the right pot, location, and keeping on top of watering and feeding the shrubs.

Here, we look in-depth at five key factors for success to help you get the best performance from these deciduous, summer-flowering shrubs. Get it right, and growing ninebark in containers can be simple. You’ll get a performance from spring through to winter for years to come.

Can You Grow Ninebark in Containers?

Yes, you can grow ninebark in containers without too much fuss. If you have space on a sunny deck or patio, there is likely to be a ninebark for you to bring glorious foliage and flowers to any yard.

If you have aspirations for a wildlife garden in pots, ninebark blooms attract a host of pollinators in summer, and birds feed on the seedheads in fall.

1. Pick a Compact Variety

If you harbor dreams of growing ninebark in containers on a patio or deck, opt for a compact variety. Larger varieties of the flowering shrub can reach ten feet tall and wide, which is far too expansive for a container. However, there is a great selection of compact varieties available that are perfectly suitable for pots.

The likes of ‘Summer Wine’, ‘Tiny Wine’, ‘Little Angel’, and ‘Little Devil’ offer the beauty and year-round interest of larger ninebark shrubs, and also attract pollinators into any smaller space. These compact varieties come in a range of colors and shades and reach no more than 4-6 feet in height.

Compact ninebark shrubs are suited to and easier to maintain in a container garden. For an attractive display, you can even group more than one pot for glorious foliage, flowers, and the unique exfoliating bark.

Shop Compact Ninebark Varieties

2. Use a Large Container

Even for compact ninebark shrubs, you want a large container to accommodate the shrub’s roots. A suitable container should be at least 24 inches wide and deep, and must have drainage holes in the bottom.

The container can be any material, ranging from lightweight plastic (such as this plastic planter at Amazon) to traditional ceramic planters (like this handmade ceramic pot at Wayfair).

Fill your chosen container with a quality potting soil for container gardening, such as this Miracle-Gro potting mix, available at Amazon. Such a formulated mix is well-draining and contains nutrients to feed potted plants for several months.

Drainage is vitally important for plants in pots, as excess moisture can cause root rot. Using old garden soil in pots, for example, is a container gardening mistake as it sits too wet and risks rot. Along with adding drainage holes to planters, a well-draining potting mix is essential to healthy plants.

3. Find a Sunny Spot

Give your ninebark the right amount of sun, and it will reward you with the best display of dome-shaped flower blooms in early summer. An ideal spot in your yard will get at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.

A ninebark can tolerate light shade, but increased levels of shade will impact the flowering.

However, in the hottest southern US hardiness zones, a ninebark may prefer some afternoon shade. This is especially the case in containers, where they may dry out quickly or suffer from summer scorch in extreme heat.

A bit of protection from blazing afternoon sun in these warmer climates is beneficial and will give you the best show from the shrub.

4. Water Regularly and Deeply

Growing ninebark in containers works, as it is a shrub that can tolerate both dry and wet conditions. It is a drought-tolerant shrub, yet also prefers moist conditions, making it an ideal low-maintenance plant for a container.

Even though it can tolerate drought once established, it still needs regular deep watering during the summer, as the soil can dry out quickly on warm days.

A good way to check when watering plants in containers is to use your fingers and see the moisture levels an inch or two down in the soil. If it feels dry, give plants a deep watering until it runs out of the drainage holes at the bottom.

Alternatively, you can use a soil moisture meter (you can get a soil moisture meter at Amazon) to help know when to water plants without having to put your fingers in the soil.

Occasional deep waterings early in the morning are more beneficial to the plant than regular light watering, and a better way to keep soil moist in the summer.

The former gets water down to the root zone and gives the plant a chance to take in moisture before the temperatures rise. Light watering, especially when the sun is out, may result in more moisture lost to evaporation than the shrub gets.

5. Remember to Fertilize Plants

Ninebark in containers relies more on fertilizers than those growing in the ground, as the shrub can use up all the nutrients available in the limited soil.

For the best display, you should regularly feed the shrub to boost the soil and provide the essential nutrients it needs to grow healthily and flower.

The best route is to feed the plants in spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. Use a product like this Osmocote plant food, available at Amazon, that can feed plants for up to six months. Apply it to the soil surface, lightly mix it in, and then water thoroughly.

If you use a faster-acting liquid fertilizer, it will need to be reapplied every 4-6 weeks to provide enough nutrients to last the full growing season.

Avoid feeding plants in the fall, as this risks encouraging fresh growth that won’t have time to harden off in time before the frosts arrive.

What to Shop

Ninebark doesn’t need lots of regular pruning to look graceful and bloom profusely. But there is a need to thin branches and lightly shape the bush to keep it healthy.

This should be done after flowering in late spring or early summer, and you can find expert trimming tips in our in-depth guide to when and how to prune ninebark shrubs.

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Escallonia is an attractive shrub originating from South America. They may be fairly cold-hardy, but can be heavily damaged, or even killed, by freezing winter winds. It does mean shrubs in colder climates need extra TLC to survive winter unscathed.

Not all gardeners need extra measures to overwinter escallonia; they are moderately frost-tolerant evergreen shrubs that can thrive in milder climates. Most varieties are suited to zones 7-10 and can tolerate winter temperatures down to approximately 10-15°F.

Overwintering escallonia can include blocking wind, mulching the soil, covering plants ahead of frosty nights, and moving shrubs in containers. To help you overwinter escallonia shrubs growing in the ground or containers, I got some tips from expert gardeners.

How to Overwinter Escallonia – Where You Do and Don’t Need to Act

Whether you need to take steps to overwinter escallonia successfully will depend on your climate and where you grow the shrub.

In US hardiness zones 8-10, they can handle winter fine once established. However, US hardiness zone 7 is borderline for the shrub, so some protection is recommended. Gardeners in US hardiness zone 6 and below may need to heavily protect the shrubs, or grow them in pots and move them to a protected position for winter.

You can get a pink Escallonia 'Fradesii' starter plant at Amazon that is hardy in zones 6-9 and will grow to 6-8 feet at maturity to add the evergreen shrub to your yard.

The 3 Best Ways to Protect Escallonia in Winter

When you live in areas with borderline escallonia, it is advisable to plant the shrub in a sheltered spot, such as near a wall or garden fence. Providing them with a protected location greatly helps, as cold winds are actually more damaging to escallonia than freezing temperatures.

Cold winds pose an issue to even the easiest evergreen shrubs during winter, as they dry out the foliage, causing leaves to dry out, turn brown, and even drop from the trees. As well as potential bare branches on your escallonia, freezing winds can cause dieback of the shrub’s stems and branches.

It can be an issue for escallonia shrubs growing in open spaces in colder climates. However, Loren Taylor, a seasoned landscaper, gardener and owner of Soothing Company, offers a simple solution to this issue.

‘Use shade cloth, burlap, a heavy-duty tarp, or wind netting (such as this mesh shade cloth at Amazon) to create a windbreak, meaning the wind would not blow so strongly over the shrub,’ he advises. A temporary windbreak can be installed by stretching fabric between stakes, like these wooden garden stakes at Walmart. This will diffuse the wind and also prevent shrubs from suffering from wind rock over winter.

‘The placement of escallonia plants near fences or walls will produce better results than when they are planted in open spaces,’ adds Loren.

Mulching heavily around the base of the plant is also hugely beneficial in colder climates, as it regulates the soil temperature and provides a valuable layer of insulation to the shrub’s roots.

Rhonda Kaiser, the author of The Vintage Farmhouse Garden and the owner of Southern Home and Farm, recommends opting for organic types of mulch, which improve the soil quality as they break down and support healthy plant growth come spring. Organic mulches include compost, leaf mold, or bark chippings, like this premium mulch at Amazon.

‘Mulch should be applied at a thickness of 2-4 inches around the base,’ she says. ‘When a thick layer of mulch is on top of the soil, it protects the roots from freeze and thaw cycles that can cause the roots to heave out of the ground.

‘Mulch protects the roots of plants from severe cold, which is particularly crucial for recently transplanted and shallow-rooted plants. It also prevents drying of the soil due to cold and drying wind, keeping the soil well-hydrated even in a dry winter season.’

When extremely low temperatures are predicted, such as below 15-20°F, it is beneficial to cover plants to protect them from frost. This is especially key with young plants, which are not as hardy as established escallonia.

Loosely wrap frost cloth or burlap around the shrubs to insulate them from extreme night-time temperatures and cold winds. But remove the protective cover during the daytime when the temperatures rise again.

How to Overwinter Escallonia in Pots

There are dwarf varieties of escallonia suitable for any container garden, which allow you to enjoy attractive evergreen foliage and scented flowers in smaller spaces.

If you garden in colder climates, you can grow these. By treating the escallonia as a tender shrub and overwintering plants indoors or in sheltered areas, you can cultivate them year-round without worry.

As the roots of container-grown shrubs are more susceptible to cold damage than those in the ground, pot-grown escallonia need winter protection. It can be as simple as finding a suitable position to overwinter plants.

Fernanda Varela, a Landscape Designer with Seattle Sustainable Landscapes, recommends ‘a sheltered spot near a warm wall or under an eave’. You can overwinter plants indoors by bringing them into an unheated greenhouse, garage, or porch to spend winter away from the elements.

Fernanda advises keeping the soil lightly moist during winter, and ‘raising containers off cold concrete’ to help prevent shock during the colder months. Ahead of freezing nights, she adds: ‘When a hard frost is expected, a quick frost-cloth cover is usually enough to carry potted escallonia safely through the night.’

Rhonda Kaiser also recommends wrapping the entire pot in frost cloth or burlap to insulate the roots, as well as reiterating the importance of elevating the pot for ‘proper drainage’ during winter, which can be done with pot feet (these rubber invisible pot feet at Amazon offer a simple way of raising pots off the ground) or bricks.

‘Mulch should also be applied on top of the soil to protect the roots from frost,’ she adds. ‘Pruning should be avoided during the fall as the top growth of the plant helps insulate the plant against cold temperatures. Water sparingly, but do not let the soil become too dry.’

It needn’t be difficult to protect plants in containers during the colder months. Often, it can be as simple as moving pots together for winter. This simple shift creates a micro-climate that traps heat and creates a natural barrier from dropping temperatures.

If you cluster pots together next to a house wall, they can also benefit from warmth radiating out from the home. A south-facing wall is ideal, as it absorbs warmth during the day and slowly releases it once the sun goes down.

Winter Gardening Essentials

Watching the plants in my yard change color ignites an excitement for the cozy fall days ahead. One of the greatest joys is spotting a plant in beautiful fiery and bronze hues that I didn't expect to see, previously disguised with luscious green leaves and neutral blooms.

These unexpected plants for fall color are some real gems to have in your fall garden. Not only do they dazzle with their bright foliage in the latter half of the year, they also provide interest earlier in the year, too, often with spring and summer blooms.

Alongside the best plants for fall color, these unexpected plants for fall color can create a vibrant garden landscape for this chillier season. Here, I take a look at five top choices, plus reveal some expert tips on growing them successfully.

5 unexpected plants for fall color

Unexpected plants for fall color can be found in all corners of the garden, from towering trees to fall flowers for pots, and even grasses. All of them go through a magnificent transition as summer ends, turning red, orange, yellow, and bronze.

1. Sassafras

With yellow-green leaves through spring and summer, you would never assume sassafras would turn into a mixture of orange, red, and even purple colors by the time fall comes around.

It's distinctive lobed leaves and lemon-scented spring blooms also make it attractive in the warmer months. By late fall, this tree even turns into one of the best trees and shrubs for fall berries, with dark blue berries emerging.

It's best to grow sassafras across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 where it enjoys full sun to partial shade.

'A well-draining, clay, slightly acidic soil type is recommended,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'The sassafras can grow multiple trunks, so if that doesn’t suit you, you can reduce it to one by pruning in the early stages of its life,' she adds.

Do this by using essential pruning tools (like these bypass pruning shears Amazon) to remove suckers at the base of the tree during early spring.

You can find a young sassafras tree to plant from Amazon.

2. Japanese forest grass

One of the best ornamental grasses for winter, Japanese forest grass goes through a beautiful phase in fall before reaching its golden brown look for winter.

In summer, the mounding clumps of grass are yellow-green and often have creamy variegation. As fall settles in, the blades of the grass turn bright yellow and orange, with sprays of pale green flowers.

When growing Japanese forest grass, choose a partial shade position and maintain evenly moist soil. They are best suited to US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9.

Hold off on pruning until early spring to make the most of the bronze foliage through fall and winter. You can then use tools like these loppers from Amazon to cut it right back to the base.

Shop for Japanese forest grass at Nature Hills.

3. Spirea

If you're looking to fill in gaps of your fall borders, consider adding spirea (suited to US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9). These shrubs are popular not only for the beautiful fiery shades they turn in fall, but also the blooms that appear in summer.

'You can get blooms in shades of white, pink, and red, and they are all very popular with pollinators,' says Drew Swainston, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor.

'Some spirea varieties also have glorious fall color. The likes of Bridal Wreath Spirea (Spiraea prunifolia), Birchleaf Spirea (Spiraea betulifolia), and Japanese Spirea (Spiraea japonica) all turn stunning shades of yellow, red, or orange come the fall,' he adds.

Explore the spirea varieties available on Amazon.

Drew notes these shrubs are low-maintenance and easy to care for once established in your yard.

'Give spirea a good mulch in the fall with organic material like compost, wood chips, or pine needles,' Drew advises. 'This 2-3 inch layer will retain moisture in the soil, suppress weeds, and insulate the roots against the winter frosts.'

4. Arkansas blue star

With dainty blue star-shaped flowers on show from late spring to summer, Arkansas blue star is certainly one of the best unexpected plants for fall color.

It's wispy foliage transitions from vivid green to bright yellow and orange in fall, appearing like a fuzzy sponge from a distance.

It's best to grow Arkansas blue star across US hardiness zones 4 to 9. It prefers a well-draining soil, even growing well in sand and loam soil types.

They tend to stop flowering by early summer, which is when you should prune Arkansas blue star by six to eight inches. This will boost foliage growth through the rest of summer, creating a bushier habit for fall and winter.

Find an Arkansas blue star live plant from Amazon.

5. Blue leadwort

When blue leadwort (plumbargo) blooms first appear in summer, they sit against a background of green foliage. But, as the colder temperatures arrive, the leaves become a marbled red-green.

What's particularly remarkable about the look of blue leadwort in fall is the fact its blue flowers remain right through October. This creates a striking contrast to the red foliage that turns richer as the weeks progress.

This long flowering period makes blue leadwort one of the best flowering shrubs, along with its low-maintenance nature. It doesn't even need deadheading, as the flowers are self-cleaning and drop off once spent.

To achieve the best fall color, plant blue leadwort in well-draining soil. Too-wet can cause rot, resulting in the foliage drooping, curling, and falling off before it has a chance to turn red.

Find a blue leadwort plant from Amazon.

FAQs

Is October a good time to plant trees and shrubs?

Yes, October is a great month to add new trees and shrubs to your yard. This is because the soil is still warm and workable, encouraging root establishment ahead of frostier temperatures. For immediate impact, consider planting shrubs and trees for fall color this month.

One of the best things about adding new plants to your yard is watching how they change throughout the year, surprising you with different colors in different seasons.

For an extra hit of fall foliage galore, check out our report on the Farmers' Almanac peak fall foliage map to find out where to go to see the best colors this season.

Shrubs play an important role in the design of most gardens. They can be relied upon for structure, interest, flowers, fruit, fall color, and more, whether taking on a key role center stage or acting as a canvas to showcase other showy perennials or annual flowers.

Picking the right shrub for your garden can be challenging, as there are thousands to choose from. But there are definitely ones to avoid, as invasive shrubs are thuggish, take over a space, and even escape outside the boundaries of a garden to terrorize native plants.

Such shrubs are invasive plants you should never add to your garden. This guide highlights five invasive shrubs to avoid, and reveals what native shrubs expert gardeners in the US recommend planting instead.

Invasive shrubs to avoid

Whether you are looking for easy evergreen shrubs for year-round color, or deciduous ones to add seasonal color, size, hardiness, and preferences for soil and light always top the list of things to consider.

Before adding any plants to your yard, you also need to identify those species best avoided. To help with that, here are five invasive shrubs to never add to your yard.

1. Japanese Barberry

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) has become an invasive shrub throughout the northeastern US and several Midwestern states.

It was a popular ornamental deciduous shrub first introduced to the US in the late 1800s, but it is now a major problem as it spreads far beyond backyards. Japanese barberry has taken over forests, woodlands, wetlands, and more, harming local ecosystems as it forms impenetrable groves.

'Japanese barberry might offer vibrant fall color, but this thorny invader creates dense thickets that displace native species and, even worse, provides ideal habitat for deer ticks that carry Lyme disease,' explains Amy Martin, landscape designer and the founder of Plant and Bloom Design Studio.

What to plant instead:

A native alternative to Japanese barberry is Fothergilla, a glorious spring-flowering shrub that thrives in sun or semi-shade. In particular, Amy recommends the Dwarf Fothergilla (Fothergilla gardenii) as it is versatile and perfect for any pollinator-friendly garden.

'Dwarf fothergilla offers fragrant white bottlebrush flowers in spring, followed by absolutely brilliant orange to burgundy fall color that rivals any maple,' she says. 'This compact 1-3 foot shrub is perfect for foundation plantings, low hedges, or naturalizing in woodland gardens, thriving in zones 5-8 in full sun to part shade.

'Plus, it provides valuable nectar for bees and pollinators, making it a true garden winner.'

You can get live Dwarf Fothergilla plants at Amazon to plant in US hardiness zones 5-8.

2. Burning Bush

Burning bush (Euonymus alatus) is nice to look at when covered in bright red foliage in the fall. But don’t be fooled by how stunning it is, as the burning bush is hugely problematic and now classified as invasive in 21 US states.

This is because it grows aggressively, spreading by suckers and by birds taking its berries and seeds far and wide. Burning bush outcompetes native shrubs and chokes out other plants in woodlands.

There are ways to control burning bush if you do have one in your yard, such as removing seedlings and pruning the burning bush to remove suckers. However, you can do little to stop birds from spreading seeds, so it is better not to plant the shrub in the first place.

What to plant instead:

Rather than planting one of these invasive shrubs, consider a red chokerry (Aronia arbutifolia). 'Red chokeberry is a great choice because it delivers gorgeous fall colors and supports birds and pollinators,' says Cheryl Kaminski, owner of Myrtle Florist.

This multi-stemmed medium-sized shrub produces white flowers followed by red foliage and berries in fall. It can be grown in US hardiness zones 4-9 and prefers planting in a full sun or partial shade position in the yard.

You can find red chokeberry shrubs at Nature Hills, including this more compact Brilliantissima variety that reaches 6-10 feet in height.

3. Privet

For many years, privet (Ligustrum) was a highly popular shrub for privacy, as it was a fast-growing hedging plant seen as ideal for screening. However, times have changed and now privet is an invasive hedge plant to avoid.

Indeed, many types of privet are now on the invasive plant list. The likes of common privet (L. vulgare), California privet (L. ovalifolium), and Chinese privet (L. sinense) are among the nine types of privet classed as invasive.

Birds unknowingly spread the privet seeds far and wide, allowing the shrub to escape backyards with ease. As privet grows so quickly and can tolerate even the toughest conditions, it forms dense thickets and quickly outcompetes native plants.

What to plant instead:

There are many native shrubs you can grow as hedging plants that offer the same screening potential as privet, without risking the same threat to local plant diversity.

'I would look into Inkberry holly, which is an excellent pick for hedges. It has evergreen leaves and produces berries that feed various wildlife,' recommends Cheryl Kaminski.

Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) is native to the southeastern US and so-called for the dark fruits it produces. They grow to 5-10 feet tall and prefer full sun and moist, well-drained soil.

You can get live inkberry holly plants at Amazon to plant instead of privet. This shrub can also be an alternative to boxwood if you are concerned about boxwood blight or box tree moth affecting shrubs.

4. Butterfly Bush

Butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii) is a hugely popular backyard shrub native to Asia. Gardeners have long enjoyed this dramatic shrub for its conical blooms, which, as the name suggests, attract butterflies and bees.

However, it is a shrub as problematic as it is eye-catching. The butterfly bush is invasive in many parts of the US, and one of the most troublesome invasive plants in the Pacific Northwest.

The butterfly bush reproduces prolifically, spreading its lightweight seeds far and wide on the wind. When these seeds settle, they have a high germination rate, remain viable for up to five years, and grow quickly. It leads to butterfly bushes taking over fields, roadsides, riverbanks, and the edges of woodland at the expense of native species.

While a butterfly bush attracts butterflies, it has no predators, and no native caterpillar eats the shrub's leaves. It can outcompete native plants that are food for caterpillars, and more butterfly bushes means fewer caterpillars, butterflies and birds that rely on the insects for food.

What to plant instead:

For a native alternative, consider growing Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis). This hardy deciduous shrub prefers damp, partly-shaded locations and can thrive in US hardiness zones 5-10.

Buttonbush produces unique white spherical flowerheads in late spring and summer, which are followed by round, reddish fruits that provide late-season food for birds.

Live buttonbush shrubs are available at Nature Hills

For a sunnier planting position, rather than the part-shade preferred for buttonbush, another alternative is Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia). This native shrub produces fragrant, white bottlebrush flowers that attract bees and butterflies for 4-6 weeks in mid-to-late summer.

This live Sixteen Candles Summersweet at Nature Hills can put out flower spikes that reach six inches long to give the appearance of candles, hence its name.

5. Autumn Olive

Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata) is a large deciduous shrub that was first introduced around the 1830s.

It was widely planted, including being used as an ornamental shrub in landscaping due to its speed of growth and ability to survive even in undesirable conditions. As Autumn olive fixes nitrogen in its roots and is a drought-tolerant tree, this aids its ability to survive tough environments.

It grows up to 20 feet and produces red berries in high numbers. Birds eat these berries and then disperse the seeds, which causes the plant to spread, out-compete other plants, and create dense copses that shade out native species. Autumn olive is an invasive plant throughout most of the eastern US.

What to plant instead:

The Common Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea) is native to the eastern US, and this deciduous shrub can reach 15-25 feet when growing in full sun or part-shade. It offers a lot when planted as a specimen plant in flower beds.

On this native shrub, Amy Martin says: 'The beautiful native serviceberry offers stunning clusters of white spring flowers, gorgeous red-orange fall color, and delicious fruits that feed wildlife. It thrives in zones 4-9 and provides vital habitat and food for pollinators and birds.'

Serviceberries are great trees for wildlife, as they attract a wide variety of bird species. This Autumn Brilliance Serviceberry Tree at Fast Growing Trees grows to a more compact size and has white spring blooms, summer fruits, and orange-red color in the fall.

There are all types of problematic plants to avoid adding to your yard, not just invasive shrubs. There are also some troublesome invasive ground cover plants to avoid planting, as they can spread quickly and overrun your yard, including the likes of creeping Jenny, ground ivy, common periwinkle, and lesser celandine.

Shop gardening tools and supplies

Fall is the perfect time to plant some new shrubs in the garden, while the ground is still warm to work with. One to add to your list this year is winterberry (Ilex verticillata), a beautiful deciduous shrub that has bare branches full of bright red berries in winter.

Not only is it one of the best shrubs with winter berries, but this shrub is a type of holly bush, that also displays beautiful blooms in spring. Unlike common holly (an evergreen shrub), this deciduous shrub loses its deep green leaves in winter to show off its vibrant fruits. It's also native to the US, making it an excellent choice for supporting wildlife and biodiversity.

Once established, this shrub is straightforward to care for, with a few pruning requirements to maintain its health and vigour. Here, gardening experts share their tips an tricks on how to grow winterberry successfully.

Key considerations for growing winterberry

Before jumping in with how to grow winterberry, there are a few important things to consider to determine if it's the right shrub for your yard.

Winterberry does best across US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9, and has a height and spread of 8x5 feet You can also expect it to drop its leaves in winter, so it's not necessarily the best choice of shrub for garden privacy. However, it does provide plenty of interest in every season:

'Winterberry shrubs have inconspicuous white flowers in spring that are very attractive and beneficial to bees. In fall, clusters of red berries set along the stems, and will persist into winter,' explains gardening expert Caroline Ervin. 'The stems are wonderful as cut specimens in the fall and around the holidays,' she adds.

With these things in mind, here's what you need to know to grow winterberry in your yard.

Find a winterberry shrub at Nature Hills.

Find a winterberry shrub on Amazon.

Find a winterberry shrub at Walmart.

How to grow winterberry

• Soil: The good news is winterberry is highly adaptable to a wide range of soil types. 'Winterberry naturally grows in boggy or moist soils and is adaptable to many types of soil conditions, though it prefers a slightly acidic, moist organic loam,' Caroline explains. You can make your soil more acidic to support winterberry growth by using this soil amendment from Amazon. If you're unsure of your soil pH, use this soil test kit from Amazon.
• Position: As for lighting, winterberry shrubs need at least six hours of direct sun a day. 'However, it's adaptable enough to tolerate partial shade, so don't fret if it doesn't get all-day sun exposure. A bit of dappled shade could also be appreciated on especially hot days,' says Anastasia Borisevich of Plantum. If your winterberry is struggling to get sunlight exposure, consider pruning neighboring tree branches that are casting shade onto it.
• Watering: With winterberries enjoying moist soils, it's no surprise they thrive with consistent moisture. 'Regular watering is key to its survival, but don't drown it,' Anastasia says You can use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to check if your winterberry needs topping up during particularly hot, dry spells. 'As they naturally grow along ponds and stream beds, in low thickets, and in swamps, winterberry shrubs are excellent additions to rain gardens and garden areas that are consistently moist,' Caroline adds.
• Pruning: Just like pruning a holly bush, it's important to give your winterberry a trim in early spring. Using essential pruning tools (like these pruning shears from Amazon), you should remove dead and diseased stems, and shape the shrub. Doing so in early spring will prepare your winterberry for flowering and new growth. Just make sure to stick to the one third pruning rule when doing this, as to not remove too much of the plant and shock it or stunt its growth.

FAQs

How do you propagate winterberry?

You can propagate winterberry either by taking softwood cuttings in late spring or hardwood cuttings in fall and winter. For both methods, it can be helpful to use a rooting hormone before inserting cuttings into a well-draining potting soil. Keep the cutting consistently moist and in a bright, warm spot to encourage new growth.

If you're looking for other plants to add to your winter garden this year, consider some of the best winter plants for pots and borders and winter climber ideas, too.

Pruning is all about timing. Believe me, I’ve learned this the hard way. Cut at the wrong moment, and you can ruin next year’s display, or worse, lose the plant altogether. Years ago, in a garden I was working in, I trimmed a lavender hedge a little too late in September. It looked perfectly neat, but the weather turned cold earlier than expected, and the tender new growth I’d triggered didn’t have time to harden off. A mistake I haven’t made since.

September is a tempting time to tidy – the summer’s slipping away, and the urge to neaten things up takes hold. But many plants, especially those that bloom on old wood like lilacs and forsythia, are best left alone. Prune them now, and you’ll be snipping off spring before it’s even had a chance.

So, while you may already know which plants to prune in September, here are seven plants I never cut back this month, and why, after a decade of gardening, I avoid any temptation to trim these species.

7 plants to never prune in September

I’ve worked with enough gardeners (and made enough errors myself) to know that once the secateurs are out, it’s easy to go pruning mad. But not every plant wants a haircut right now.

Before you start, then, take a pause and brush up on common pruning mistakes, so you don’t accidentally set your garden back a whole season. Here are seven plants to never prune in September.

1. Oakleaf hydrangea

I have grown oakleaf hydrangeas, or Hydrangea quercifolia, in several gardens where I have worked, and I remain a little obsessed. With oak-shaped leaves complemented by the white flowers in springtime, this shrub is quite a sight to behold.

But don’t be tempted to trim now. Oakleaf hydrangeas flower on old wood, which means this year’s stems are already forming next year’s show. Snip those off in September and, well, you’ll be met with a whole lot of nothing next spring.

Instead, in terms of when to prune an oakleaf hydrangea, I would suggest waiting until after it flowers, late spring or early summer, and then trim lightly.

If you must tidy, simply deadhead by snipping only the brown flowers, using something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available to order via Amazon.

2. Lilacs

Lilacs are another shrub to never hard prune in September or during fall. Like many spring bloomers, they form next year’s flower buds in the summer months, well before the leaves drop.

If your lilac looks messy, you can remove the odd bit of dead wood or wayward stem. For thicker branches, try this cordless electric hedge trimmer by Ryobi, available at Home Depot now, which is highly rated by shoppers.

But in terms of when to prune lilacs properly, save this job for right after flowering in spring. That’s your window. Anything later and you'll be cutting flowering stems for next year.

If you fancy treating yourself to a new lilac, fall is a good time to get planting. This compact 'Bloomerang' variety, with live plants available from Proven Winners via Amazon, would be a good choice for smaller plots or patio plants.

3. Veronicastrum

I love darkened seed heads in the fall garden, and Veronicastrum virginicum, or Culver's root, might be the best.

This native plant (hardy down to zone 3) produces impactful blackened seed heads, as can be seen in the image above, that can stand for much of fall and winter, until they are flattened by snow.

So, my advice? Don’t cut these plants now. The faded flowers feed wildlife, birds pick away at the seeds, and pollinators still hover if the weather’s mild.

The same goes for coneflowers and black eyed Susan plants, let the cones and domes blacken, dry and stand tall to provide winter interest, habitat and food.

I would consider these as plants to prune in spring, so save the haircut for February or March, once new shoots begin to emerge from the base. Until then, enjoy the decay.

If you like the look of this perennial but don't have it in your yard, order Veronicastrum virginicum seeds from Amazon now, and scatter the seeds outside during September and October. With any luck, these seeds will germinate come spring and grow into healthy plants.

4. Switchgrass

I would also consider most ornamental grasses as plants to never prune in September. This would include one of the best native grasses, Panicum virgatum, otherwise known as switchgrass.

Live switchgrass starter plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

While they lose their lushness during September and October, and begin to bronze and brown, this is to be celebrated. To me, grasses are some of the most underrated elements in the fall and winter garden.

Cutting it back in September robs you of all that fall color and impact. Plus, these grasses act as habitat. Birds nestle in and insects overwinter in dense thickets. So, put the loppers back in the shed, and instead, cut back ornamental grasses in February.

5. Forsythia

Forsythias only bloom on old wood, so the stems that grew this year are the ones that’ll produce zingy yellow flowers next spring.

So, if you’re tempted to tame your forsythia now, resist the urge. In terms of when is it too late to prune forsythia, September is definitely too late for my liking.

You want to chop just after the blooms drop in late spring or early summer. That gives the shrub time to regrow fresh flowering wood through the rest of the year.

If you want to, you can remove any dead or diseased stems now, using something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through larger, rotten stems.

6. Penstemon

I’ve grown all sorts of penstemon over the years, from the deep purple ‘Raven’ to the fine-foliaged Penstemon pinifolius, which has the most striking fiery orange flowers.

These perennials always deliver. But a word of caution: don’t cut them back in summer or fall. I leave the flower stalks standing, and not just for the seed. Those hollow stems offer shelter for overwintering insects and provide food during the hummingbird migration – remember that even brown flowers can still contain nectar.

So, while you might be tempted to deadhead penstemon in September, I would suggest leaving them to stand. Instead, trim them down to the base in early spring, just when you can see where the new growth is pushing through.

7. Crepe myrtle

Crape myrtles are also plants to never prune in September. This is because a trim now will encourage soft new growth to shoot, which is the last thing you want going into fall and winter. An early frost in New York or Chicago, for example, would easily kill this growth.

So, in terms of when to prune crepe myrtle, be patient; you want to wait until late winter or very early spring when the shrub is dormant, just before any lush new leaves begin to unfurl. That way, you’re not encouraging risky new shoots.

When it comes to pruning, if there are any out-of-reach crepe myrtle stems, use something like these highly rated Fiskars extendable pruners, available now via Amazon.

One plant that you can trim in early September is lavender. Nobody wants to see woody lavender plants in their yard, so a good late summer chop is needed. I aim to trim in August or early September, giving enough time for any new growth to harden before frost. And remember, don't cut into old wood, only into the green growth.

For more inspiration and jobs to keep you busy this month, see our guide on perennials to plant in September for spring blooms.

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I first grew abelia when working as a gardener on a private estate in Pienza, Tuscany. There were several abelia shrubs growing happily under a spreading oak tree, alongside pink clerodendrum and oak-leaved hydrangeas. In the dappled light of the oak, these three flowering shrubs thrived with relatively little care (which I appreciated).

Those abelias barely got watered, stayed evergreen through frozen winters and bloomed for long spells in spring and early summer. In memory, they always looked good, despite the often challenging growing conditions.

So, if you are struggling with a darker border or a partially shaded corner, abelia is, in my opinion, one of the best flowering shrubs to consider. Here’s everything I know about how to grow abelia, including tips on planting, soil and fertilizing.

How to grow abelia

Abelia spp. are native to China, Taiwan and Vietnam. There are currently only six species, although the one I have experience growing is the glossy abelia, or Abelia x grandiflora, which I can highly recommend if you are seeking a tough but beautiful shrub that thrives in darker spots.

Live glossy abelia shrubs can be ordered now via Amazon.

Growing habits of abelia

Abelia is an understated shrub. It might not be the biggest (Abelia x grandiflora reaches no more than 8 to 10 feet), but those small pale pink or soft white tubular flowers are quite something when seen in a partially shaded spot – or when grown as part of white garden ideas.

Hardiness will be specific depending on the exact variety, but most Abelia spp. are evergreen down to zone 8. If you are in a cooler spot, such as zone 6, grow one of the tougher varieties, such as ‘Edward Goucher', which is seen in the image below.

In terms of shape, they naturally want to arch, with a tendency to grow in a weeping habit. So, give yours a little room, and it’ll mound out into a soft, rounded form, making it ideal for the middle or back of borders. I’ve seen it used as an informal hedge, too.

In terms of care, abelias aren't really very fussy. I have found they tolerate most soils, as long as they’re not soggy, and can be grown in most borders, so long as they enjoy a few hours of dappled light. While they will grow in a full-shade spot, chances are they won't flower and growth will be leggy.

For an unusual variety, try this Abelia × grandiflora 'Kaleidoscope', with live plants available now via Walmart, which has dramatic foliage, starting yellow and green in spring before deepening in summer and fall.

Care guide for abelia

Soil: While these shrubs are simple to grow, they do best in fertile, well-draining soil. In the season before you plant, you can combine some mulch with your borders (a good two-inch layer or so), which will help to give your plants the best start by improving the quality of the soil.

Light: Abelias are some of the best shrubs for shade, and I have seen them thrive with relatively little sunshine. A partially shaded spot with even two or three hours of sun will be fine. However, if you are keen to enjoy dramatic foliage, vibrant displays tend to occur in shrubs that are planted in full sun, just watch for leaf scorch in hotter, warmer locations.

Watering: In my experience, abelia shrubs are pretty drought-tolerant once established, although they might need a little help during the first year or two. In addition, deep watering every few days during the hotter summer months is a good idea, particularly if you are growing in containers.

Fertilizing: Mulching is a good idea for your abelia shrubs, as they do well with a rich, fertile soil. Doing so yearly should remove any need to feed. If you are keen to give your shrubs a boost, however, an annual all-purpose feed applied once in spring should do the job.

Pruning: There is no need for deadheading when it comes to abelia shrubs. However, I have found that a light trim in the off-season can help to keep shrubs looking tight and compact. In terms of when to prune abelia, this is best done in late winter or early spring to avoid snipping off any stems yet to bloom.

Toxicity: These shrubs are not considered toxic for either humans or pets.

FAQs

Can I grow abelia in pots?

Yes, you can grow abelia in pots. One tip from me would be to choose a dwarf variety, such as ‘Kaleidoscope’, which doesn't tend to grow any taller than four or five feet. Your pot-grown shrub will need to be watered regularly during spring and summer, as containers can dry out quickly when the mercury rises.

If you fancy trying your hand at some propagation, you can take softwood abelia cuttings in early summer or hardwood cuttings in late summer.

To improve your propagation success rate, be sure to select healthy stems for cuttings and use a potting soil that has adequate drainage.

For more planting inspiration, see our guide on the easiest evergreen shrubs to add to your collection this year.

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There’s something deeply satisfying about snipping off a bit of stem and turning it into a whole new plant. And while summer may be slipping quietly out the side door, don’t pack away your tools just yet. September still has plenty to offer on the propagation front.

For me, this is the month to get stuck into softwood cuttings of tender perennials and semi-ripe cuttings of flowering shrubs. I always see it as a kind of insurance policy – especially for pelargoniums, which may not survive the first frost. Far easier to store a dozen small pots in the greenhouse than to haul full-sized, large specimens around. I also like to prep a few trays of penstemons and fuchsias this month, to be spread around the yard next spring. A small amount of effort now for a big reward next year.

So, if you’re after a raft of free plants for spring and summer 2026, you’re in the right place. Here’s everything I know about what to propagate in September, one of the final, satisfying tasks on your late-summer gardening checklist.

7 plants to propagate in September

September is a good time to get stuck into a spot of propagation. It’s not too hot, not too cold, and many of the best perennials and flowering shrubs are at an ideal point in their growth cycle to provide viable cuttings.

Learning how to take plant cuttings is pretty straightforward, but I always keep things simple. Clean snips, a bucket of water to drop cuttings into as I go (hydration is key), and a small table for potting up with gritty compost. It really is that simple.

Here are seven of my go-to plants to propagate in September.

1. Penstemon

As some of the easiest perennials to grow, penstemon can always be relied on to inject some late summer color into borders.

There are so many varieties, most of which are hardy down to zone 4 in a range of colors, although I always love the crisp, clean white flowers of 'White Bedder'.

I have found that these perennials root with ease and give back handsomely the following year. Simply take a handful of four to six-inch cuttings from non-flowering stems, or pinch out the buds if present.

Try this Fiskars pruning knife, available now from Amazon, which is perfect for taking cuttings and cleaning up the stems.

Remember to cut just below a node and strip the lower leaves. By spring, wiry roots will be out of the bottom of the pot, and your new penstemons will be ready to go.

2. Fuchsia

I’ve grown fuchsias for many years, and while I used to be a little perturbed by the more popular two-tone varieties, in the last few years I have come round to them (at least the single shade options). In particular, I love 'Grayrigg', with its pale lilac flowers, which are perfect for cottage garden ideas.

In terms of how to take fuchsia cuttings, now is the perfect time. I have found that the earlier the better, really, so aim to get this done sooner rather than later in September, to give plenty of time for roots to develop before fall.

Cut four-inch sections, removing any lower leaves, and plant in a gritty mix. You can use rooting hormone powder, although it is not always needed. However, I have found it can help with propagation success rates.

Try this rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon, dipping first in water, then in the powder, before shaking off any excess.

Your cuttings will root best in a warm, humid spot – a greenhouse or a plastic bag over the pot will do.

3. Pelargoniums

I have long been obsessed with pelargoniums. One of my go-to varieties in recent years has been Pelargonium sidoides, which has delicate five-petalled blooms that are the color of deep crimson. In pots on the patio, nothing could be better.

Most, if not all, pelargoniums are tender, surviving the winters only in zone 9 or zone 10. I suggest taking some cuttings now will make storage in the greenhouse far easier.

I’ve found pelargoniums root well from short three or four-inch cuttings taken from the tips of non-flowering stems, and a dab of rooting hormone can give them a boost, too.

Drainage is really important, so make sure to use seed and cuttings soil, like this from Amazon, and go easy on the water. Just a light dribble or mist every now and then will do.

4. Verbena

If you like purple plants, then you won't go far wrong with Verbena bonariensis. With lofty stems that can last through until October or November, this perennial is one of the best verbena varieties and is a real workhorse in the backyard.

If you are already growing this verbena, or perhaps you have the native blue vervain, now is a good time to take cuttings to grow more clumps next year.

Take four-inch verbena cuttings of non-flowering tips, and strip the lower leaves. Push several into a single pot of gritty mix. I often tuck them in around the edge of the pot, being sure that the leaves aren't touching.

By spring, you’ll have plenty of little plants ready to kick into action next summer, that the butterflies go mad for.

And, if all else fails, you can always treat yourself to a new plant. Live Verbena hastata plants can be ordered via Amazon.

5. Salvia

If I had to pick a desert-island genus, Salvia spp. might just clinch it. I’ve grown dozens of varieties over the years, ranging from the blue-flowering bog sage, or Salvia uliginosa, to my current favorite, clary sage, or Salvia sclarea, which has white-lilac flower spikes in spring and summer.

To propagate salvia, you want firm side shoots. Snip just below a node, remove lower leaves and push into gritty compost.

One tool that will make the job easier is this wooden dibber, available via Amazon, which will quickly tunnel holes in the soil for each cutting.

And, as with all cuttings, don’t overwater. Salvias tend to sulk if too wet, so a little caution, patience and minimal fuss are best. By spring, you’ll have tidy little plants with roots poking out of the bottom of the pot.

6. Camellia

Now is a brilliant time to try camellia cuttings – although, a warning, they do take a little while to become a good-sized flowering shrub. Think slow and steady, but very worth it.

In September, propagate camellias using this season's growth. You want the stem to be brown, but still bendy. I would say cuttings of about six inches are best.

Simply strip the leaves, leaving only the top two, and dip them in hormone rooting powder.

It might take two to four months to spy a little white root or two at the bottom of the pot, so you might have to wait until next spring before repotting into individual containers.

7. California lilac

If you are keen on shrubs that thrive on neglect, Ceanothus spp. (or California lilacs) are some of the best.

These low-maintenance shrubs thrive in hot, dry climates, producing lilac blooms in sunny yards.

They can get leggy after several years, so taking cuttings is a good way to replenish and replace older specimens when the time is right.

I suggest taking semi-ripe cuttings from the current season's growth in September, ideally four to six inches long without blooms. You want fresh, healthy shoots that have turned a little hard and brown during the growing season.

Your California lilac cuttings will hate having wet feet, so a pot with good drainage is ideal. They might take a few months to develop roots, so a degree of patience is required for this tough shrub.

One final word of advice: overwatering is the biggest sin when taking cuttings. So, be sure to water sparingly, and add some sand, grit or perlite to your soil, to make it well-draining. Of course, some water retention is no bad thing, but you want to avoid waterlogged soil at all costs when it comes to these plants to propagate in September.

Perlite sacks can be ordered via Walmart.

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I think most of us, as gardeners, would confess to obsessing over a dahlia or delphinium during summer. And, sure, I get it, a pink cosmos or coneflower is hard to top. But I think we need to give evergreens a little more love. In particular, the group of evergreens that can handle shade. To me, these are the unsung heroes of the backyard, and can prove to be transformative in darker pockets and borders.

Shade can be tricky to deal with. That’s why evergreen plants that tolerate shade are so useful. And, it needn't be dull. I always recommend mixing tones and textures. Pair the mottled yellow-and-green of aucuba or euonymus with strappy, grassy foliage like monkey grass, supported by topiary clipped forms of yew or Japanese holly. With the right combinations, shady spots can sing.

Here, I share five of my favorite evergreen shade plants, including native and non-native options, and with tips on how to plant, grow and care for each. So, whether you’re filling a pot on a shady balcony or you are landscaping with evergreens, this guide has you covered.

5 best evergreen shade plants

Fortunately for us, some of the easiest evergreen shrubs can handle partial and full shade. But, as with any plant selection, just be sure to pick species that are best suited to your climate, soil and US hardiness zones.

Here are five of my top evergreen shade plants that I have grown in gardens across the UK and Italy, with tips and tricks I have learned along the way.

1. Oregon grape

Oregon grape, or Mahonia aquifolium, is a shade-tolerant evergreen shrub that can reach up to and over three feet.

Native to cool and wet woodland regions across North America, this species, perhaps unsurprisingly, doesn't mind full to partial shade.

It can be grown down to zone 5, best planted towards the back of your darker borders, where you can admire the springtime yellow flowers and fall and winter blue berries, but where those spikes are out of reach.

Live Oregon grape plants can be ordered now via Walmart.

2. Monkey grass

Monkeygrass, or Liriope muscari, is native to Asia, namely woodlands and forests across China, Taiwan and Japan down to zone 4.

So, as you might have guessed, it can tolerate darker yards just fine. Some gardeners in cooler regions might consider it a part-shade perennial, as it can die back in cooler regions. However, in mild zones, it will retain its foliage year-round.

In London, for example, I have grown monkeygrass in several different shady gardens, and it tolerates the occasional frost and snow without any worry and holds on to its blades.

My only advice would be that monkeygrass can begin to look a little messy after a while. And, the best solution is to be brave and chop back once every few years to encourage fresh shoots from this evergreen ground cover plant.

Live monkey grass plants are available via Walmart.

3. Japanese holly

This list of the best evergreen shade plants would not be complete without mention of Japanese holly, or Ilex crenata.

As a gardener, I have used this plant too many times to count, both as a plant for topiary, clipped into submission into tight, neat forms, but also left loose and free as a natural green backdrop.

Hardy down to zone 5, Japanese holly can tolerate shade (both full and partial), retaining its small, rounded leaves and producing dark berries in fall and winter.

Japanese holly live plants are available to order via Amazon.

4. Viburnum

There are over 150 species of viburnum found growing worldwide, many of which are shade-tolerant.

One of my favorites is Vibunum tinus, for example, which has masses of tiny pink flowers in spring and can deal with shade no problem. In fact, it thrives in such conditions, and I would suggest this as a good option for growing under the canopy of larger trees.

If you are keen to opt for native planting in your yard, I would suggest learning how to grow Viburnum dentatum, otherwise known as the arrowwood viburnum.

With frothy white flowers that tend to appear in May followed by blood-red berries that arrive in fall, what's not to love?

This North American species can be grown down to zone 3, so it is a great option for gardeners in cooler, northerly regions, such as Illinois, Michigan or Washington.

Arrowhead viburnum live plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

5. Euonymus

Some of the best landscaping shrubs to use in darker yards are Euonymous spp.. In my experience, these can handle full shade without a worry, and there are many variegated options with white or yellow foliage to add a pop of color to shady borders.

For example, the Euonymus fortunei 'Emerald and Gold', as seen in the image above, has attractive green and yellow leaves that remain on the plant through every season.

However, be warned, this species is considered an invasive plant in several US states, so do your homework before adding it to your plot.

If you have a large plot, your best bet is to source euonymus starter plants, available now via Amazon, which can be ordered in bulk and planted out in drifts.

For a native option, try growing the more airy and open Euonymus americanus, which is hardy down to zone 5 and thrives as an understory shrub in darker yards.

When planting any new shrubs or perennials in your yard, just be sure to give them a good, deep watering every few days during the first few months.

Eventually, many of these species will grow to become drought-tolerant, but until they have sufficient root networks, keep them well watered through spring and summer.

For more planting inspiration, see our guide to the best fragrant evergreens, and fill your shade garden with aromatic options this year.

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There are over 100 species of magnolias growing worldwide that might be considered evergreen, although the most famous is surely the southern magnolia, or Magnolia grandiflora, found growing across much of the southeastern United States, from Texas to North Carolina.

With elongated glossy leaves, evergreen magnolias add a year-round green backdrop to plots, and, with those big, creamy blooms, what's not to love? Learning how to take evergreen magnolia cuttings in summer is a good way to boost your tree collection for free, and while it might require a little patience, the payoff is surely worth it.

The trick to success? Getting the timing right. After all, you can do everything correctly, but if it is the wrong time of year, you are doomed to failure. So, if you already know how to grow and care for a magnolia tree, it is not too much of a stretch to get on with some propagating this summer, too. Just don't leave it too late in the season.

How to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

There are lots of different evergreen magnolia trees, although the most popular native plant would be the southern magnolia, or Magnolia grandiflora, which grows in zone 6 plus.

If you have got one growing in your yard, here's how to take evergreen magnolia cuttings during summer.

When to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

In terms of when to propagate evergreen magnolias, your best bet is to take semi-ripe cuttings during late summer when the new growth produced this year is still green and flexible and not fully hard or woody. So, evergreen magnolias are best thought of as plants to propagate in August.

Pick a mild week (ideally not during a heatwave), taking your cuttings during a cool, mild morning, as plants tend to be more hydrated earlier on in the day.

How to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

1. Grab some clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars snips from Walmart. Then, identify half a dozen or so healthy green magnolia shoots.
2. Simply snip six to eight-inch stems that do not have any flowers on. You want to use stems that are somewhere in between woody and fleshy, dropping them in a bucket of water as you cut.
3. If you need to, strip the foliage from each cutting, leaving just one or two magnolia leaves at the top. If they are big leaves, you can trim them down so they are not quite so large.
4. Make the bottom cut diagonal, slicing just under a leaf node.
5. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help with the development of roots for your magnolia cuttings. Simply dip the bottom inch or so of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon.
6. Then, you can plant the bottom of the cutting (roughly three or so inches) into small pots filled with well-drained potting mix. You will want to use a potting soil that is produced with cuttings and seedlings in mind, as these formulas have added drainage. Alternatively, you can simply add a scoop of grit into your potting soil.
7. Give your magnolia cuttings pot a good watering, either using a can or soaking from the bottom.
8. Then, place the pot in a cold frame or greenhouse, keeping it out of direct sunlight. Monitor the soil every few days to ascertain whether you need to water. You do not want the soil to be overly damp, but you also want to avoid it being bone dry, too.
9. Magnolia grandiflora are considered tricky plants to root from cuttings, so you will need to be patient. In some instances, it might take a few months (maybe more than six) to spot signs of roots.

FAQs

Can I root evergreen magnolia cuttings in water?

No, propagating evergreen magnolias in water is generally not recommended as a reliable method for growing more of these flowering instead. Instead, stick to semi-ripe cuttings taken in late-summer as the best approach.

While the southern magnolia is considered difficult to root from cuttings, it is certainly worth a try. Just be patient, and keep your cuttings in a cool but protected spot. With any luck, one or two might prove successful. And, if all fails, try again next year.

There are many other trees and plants to take cuttings from during late summer, including penstemons and lavender. As a gardener, my advice is always to take a few more than you need as an insurance policy. In general, you will probably lose one or two cuttings.

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Learning how to take forsythia cuttings in summer is one of the easiest ways to double your shrub collection (at zero cost). While softwood cuttings can be taken in spring, when forsythias are producing plenty of fresh growth, semi-ripe cuttings can be taken anytime from midsummer, and August is a perfect time to do this.

I’ve grown forsythias for many years, annually pruning several large (and unruly) specimens grown as hedges in South Wales. And, while they do require a good trim every year after flowering to keep them compact, they are otherwise fuss-free shrubs that deliver high impact in spring. I mean, who wouldn't love that yellow pop of color early in the growing season?

So, if you already know how to grow forsythia and have one in your yard, whether growing as a statement shrub or as a hedge, why not also learn how to take forsythia cuttings this summer? Follow my simple step-by-step guide to take semi-ripe cuttings in the following weeks.

How to take forsythia cuttings

Native to eastern Asia, there are approximately 13 species of forsythia, most of which can be grown from zone 5 and zone 9.

There are even dwarf varieties, such as this 'Gold Tide' forsythia, with live shrubs available now via Nature Hills.

And, so long as they enjoy a good amount of sunshine, these flowering shrubs will put on a spectacular spring show.

Here's how to take forsythia cuttings during summer.

When to take forsythia cuttings

In terms of when to propagate these flowering shrubs for full sun, semi-ripe cuttings can be taken during summer when the new growth produced this year is still flexible (i.e., bendy), but not fully hard. So, forsythia are best thought of as plants to propagate in August or September.

I would suggest doing this during a cool, mild morning, as plants tend to be more hydrated at this time of day.

While you can take cuttings at any time during these months, you probably want to avoid a day or week when there is a heatwave, which might stress the plant and result in propagation failure.

How to take forsythia cuttings

1. Before you get cracking with your forsythia cuttings, you will need to source some clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars snips from Walmart. Then, identify a handful of healthy stems on your shrub. While they are beautiful, you don't want any stems with yellow flowers. Simply snip six to eight-inch stems with leaves on, that are flexible but slightly hard, too, dropping them in a bucket of water as you work.
2. Next, take your bucket to the potting shed. Strip the foliage from each forsythia cutting, leaving just one or two leaves at the top of each stem. Make the bottom cut diagonal, slicing just underneath a leaf joint, as this is where (with any luck) roots will grow from. You may find it easier to use a handy pocket knife for this, something like this Fiskars gardening folding knife, available from Walmart.
3. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help with the development of roots for your cuttings. Simply dip the bottom inch or so of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon, shaking the excess by tapping the cutting on the side of the pot.
4. Then, you can plant the bottom of the cutting (roughly two or so inches) into small pots filled with well-drained potting mix. I find that adding a bit of grit to the potting mix is a good idea to ensure there is sufficient drainage. You can plant four or more cuttings in a single pot, but just be sure they aren't touching.
5. Give your forsythia pot/s a good watering, either using a can or soaking from the bottom. Then, place them in a cold frame or greenhouse, ensuring they are not in direct sunlight.
6. Monitor the soil every few days to ascertain whether you need to water. In August, the soil can quickly dry out, so regularly checking is a good idea.
7. Of course, it varies from cutting to cutting, but you should hopefully spot roots within four or more weeks, at which point, you can carefully lift them and move the forsythia stems into small pots of their own. You can then wait until next spring or summer (or even the following year), when the cuttings are more established, to plant them out into the yard.

FAQs

Can I root forsythia cuttings in water?

Yes, you can root forsythia in water, although this is usually done during late winter, sometime around February. Winter is a good time for rooting hardwood cuttings in water, as the plant is not focused on leaf production at this time, so for those first few weeks, all energy will be focused on root development. Simply place a handful of six-inch stems in a vase, and with any luck, small white roots will appear in a matter of weeks.

There are many other plants to take cuttings from during summer, including honeysuckle and lantana. Just be sure to monitor their hydration, as small pots can quickly dry out during summer.

And, if your cuttings fail, fear not, forsythia plants are readily available and can be found in nurseries and online. Try this 'Lynwood Gold' variety, with live plants available from Nature Hills now.

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There’s a particular mood in the garden in August, I find. Growth in pots, borders and meadows begins to slow, and with it, our pace, too. Stems stretch out, blooms brown, and a golden haze settles on everything. It’s not quite the full collapse of fall, but a much-needed summer exhale after the chaos of the season. And yet, there is still pruning to be done. Not a drastic haircut, the kind reserved for winter and spring, but some shrubs and trees do benefit from a well-timed trim now.

I’ve pruned many plants in many different gardens where I have worked. On wobbly ladders in Tuscan courtyards, squinting up at unruly wisteria. Perfectly formed box balls in South Wales using wooden stencils to get the curves just so, as well as training hawthorn hedges in London and having the scratches to show for it. Some gardens were clipped and formal, others loose, wild and more carefree. But in all of them, this month called for some delicate pruning by a slower hand.

So, whether you’re tackling runaway climbers or leggy herbs, this is the moment for gentle shaping. Here are seven plants to prune in August that I always add to my summer gardening checklist.

7 plants to prune in August

Before you reach for the secateurs, it’s worth knowing that there are many plants not to prune in summer. Some, like rhododendrons and camellias, set their buds in summer for next year’s flowers, so if you cut them now and you’ll lose the following spring’s show.

But others thrive with a little August attention. Trimming and tidying this month can help to keep shrubs and trees in good health and looking compact and bushy.

Just remember, timing matters. Regardless of where you live and your US hardiness zone, chances are August will be hot. And, if you’re in the middle of a heatwave, with temperatures soaring above 80°F (26°C), step away from the loppers and pruners.

I would always suggest waiting for a cooler morning or an overcast afternoon, which will be better for the plants and much easier on you, too. Here are seven plants to prune in August.

1. Box

I’ve shaped a lot of box in my time, from small, neat spheres to long, cloud-like blobbery planting in formal beds.

In terms of when is the time to cut topiary, it will depend on what species you grow, but for box, I recommend trimming twice a year. Usually, once in late spring (taking off one third of growth) and again now, in August, when the main flush has slowed.

This second trim helps box hold its shape right through to winter and stops it looking shaggy.

For young plants, you might want to take a little more off to maintain the shape, but I have often found that with mature specimens, a gentle tidy is all that’s needed, just enough to restore clean lines.

Avoid cutting any later than this, really, as any soft new growth can shoot up and get caught out by early frosts in October.

For an even topiary cut, try this cordless electric hedge trimmer by Ryobi, available at Home Depot now, which is highly rated by users.

2. Thyme

I’ve seen creeping thyme grow through cracks and along paths in many different settings. I loved it spilling over the path in one Tuscan garden, where it would hum with bees, scenting the air when brushed.

But like all Mediterranean aromatic herbs, if left uncut too long, it gets woody and sparse at the center. And, let's face it, while this might look aged and characterful, woody thyme and woody lavender never look that attractive.

So, giving your plant a little trim in August, once flowering has finished, can help to keep it compact and bushy.

With thyme, like other herbs, don’t cut into bare wood, as you might end up killing the plant.

And, one more tip. Avoid doing this during scorching afternoons or weeks where the weather is extreme (common in zone 9), which can stress the plant.

Pick a mild day, trimming in the morning using something like these highly rated Felco F2 pruners, available to order via Amazon, which will easily cut the top few inches.

3. Climbing hydrangea

I once worked in a garden where a climbing hydrangea covered an entire exterior wall of the house, reaching up to the chimney. It was magnificent, sure, but also a time-intensive plant to prune, and one that required a long ladder.

If this is the case for you, too, try this telescopic ladder available from Amazon, which is ideal for reaching taller vines, but also compact for storing in the garden shed.

Climbing hydrangeas are some of the best evergreen climbers and also some of the best hydrangea varieties, but they do require some annual attention.

In terms of how to prune climbing hydrangeas, then, August is the time to tidy. Trim back after the white flowers have finished blooming (they will have turned brown by August) to maintain shape and encourage shoots and growth lower down.

It is important to prune climbing hydrangeas annually, as over time, they can become woody and heavy, and with strong winds and snow in fall and winter, a collapsing plant can cause damage.

4. Bottlebrush

Bottlebrush plants are part of the Callistemon plant family and they make great flowering shrubs for sunny yards in borders and pots.

I have known them to require very little water even during hot and dry summers, so they are ideal if you want shrubs that thrive on neglect.

Pruning your bottlebrush shrub in August is important, by which time it will have finished flowering.

Doing so at this stage in the growth cycle will ensure your plant remains compact and bushy, and will leave plenty of time for new shoots and green growth to harden off before the cold of winter.

If you want to carry out some heavy pruning and remove any thicker branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through larger stems.

5. Japanese holly

By August, your Japanese hollies, or Ilex crenata, might look a bit wild, especially if grown as topiary. Even a few inches of growth can lessen the impact of a sharp dome or pyramid display.

So, while these are some of the best low-maintenance evergreen shrubs for a front yard, learning how to prune holly bushes in August will help to keep your borders and pots looking crisp.

I would suggest cutting Japanese holly no later than two months before your average first frost. So, if you live in a cooler zone, like zone 4 or 5, it is a good idea to get trimming and shaping early in August, to give your plants enough time to harden off before the frost and snow arrive.

To achieve a nice, clean and uniform cut, use something like these Suizan long-handled loppers, available via Amazon, which are highly rated Japanese gardening tools that are built to last.

Remember also that Japanese hollies are considered toxic to humans and can irritate the skin, so I would suggest wearing gardening gloves when pruning.

6. Wisteria

Wisteria vines can get out of control if not regularly pruned. If you go on vacation for a few weeks during summer, chances are you will return and your wisteria will have decided to produce many feet of unruly growth.

Chinese wisteria,Wisteria sinensis, is known for its aggressive growth rates, which means they are considered an invasive climber in 19 US states, including Illinois. So, keeping an eye on growth and spread is important.

For a native species that is non-invasive, try the 'Blue Moon' American wisteria, with live plants available now via Walmart.

Whether you grow wisteria in pots or borders, most gardeners opt to prune wisteria twice during the year.

Once in winter, which is for hard pruning and training, usually around December or January. And, secondly, you must prune wisteria again in August, which is largely for thinning and cutting back any long whippy new stems.

Simply cut back those long new shoots to five or six leaves, which encourages buds to form where you want next year’s flowers to hang. Leave the bigger pruning and shaping for winter.

If there are any out-of-reach whippy stems, use something like these highly rated Fiskars extendable pruners, available now via Amazon, which will help to clear all long and messy growth.

7. Lavender

If you want to avoid having woody lavender plants in your yard, summer pruning is essential.

Whether you grow English or French lavender, or any species for that matter, trimming in August is a good idea to keep plants compact and bushy.

The golden rule is never to cut into the woody base, however, so be sure to only cut down into green growth, taking off a few inches or as much as you think necessary.

This keeps your lavenders looking tidy, and, while it might feel a little cruel, especially as these fragrant shrubs look and smell so good during August, a bit of tough love now will prolong the life of these herbs.

If you want to add a new plant to your patio pots this year, try French lavender, with live plants available via Walmart.

Whatever tools you are using for your pruning jobs in August, be sure to keep your equipment clean and sharp.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which will help to keep your loppers and pruners in good (and effective) condition.

Our guide on sharpening stones has all the information to take you through the process.

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Wildfires can be dangerous and deadly. While flames can impact your landscape, so too can smoke and ash. This leaves gardeners wondering: How does this impact my yard?

It’s estimated that wildfires destroy, on average, about 3,500 structures each year in the United States, according to the U.S. Forest Service. While that’s the average, the numbers can fluctuate each year depending on the number and severity of these wildfires. For instance, in 2020, more than 13,000 structures were destroyed by wildfires in the Western United States alone.

Hopefully, and thanks to firescaping techniques, your home will still be standing after a nearby wildfire. It’s now time to assess how your garden has been impacted by smoke and ash. Our experts provide a few simple steps and give us a better understanding of what smoke can do to your garden.

Is smoke always harmful for plants?

‘Your question is really interesting,’ says Southern California-based horticulturist, teacher and author Nan Sterman, ‘because it’s based on an assumption that smoke is going to damage plants.’

She notes that some evidence suggests otherwise. ‘I’ve been through several fires and never noticed any damage, so I reached out to some colleagues who’ve also experienced fire,’ Sterman says, ‘and universally, nobody mentioned any kind of damage, really.’ She adds that smoke from low-intensity fires can even benefit plants. The reason is due to nutrient deposition.

‘Some of the carbon and nitrogen in the ashes can be very beneficial to plants,’ Sterman explains.

These elements, deposited on leaves and soil, can enhance plant health. And, she adds, a recent scientific study confirms that ‘plant roots directly absorb nitrogen from smoke and transport it into the above-ground parts for internal circulation.’

However, there is a balance: ‘Low concentrations of smoke stimulated plant growth,’ Sterman notes, ‘but high concentrations inhibited it.’

The Dewilde Trading Co. Soil Test Kit at Amazon.com can check for pH, ammonia, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium after wildfire has moved smoke through your area and deposited particulates onto your soil.

First steps after smoke exposure

If your plants were exposed to smoke but not direct fire, the best thing you can do is give them a gentle clean-up.

‘Wash those plants outside, spraying over them and then water them regularly,’ advises Linda Langelo, Colorado State University Extension Horticulture Specialist.

She explains there are particulates that get into the plants, and we’re not always sure of their origins.

She suggests hosing down leaves to remove soot, ash and pollutants. Don’t forget to check under the leaves and rinse the soil lightly to avoid excessive buildup of particulates.

Adjustable twist brass hose nozzles at Walmart can help you direct a gentle stream of water over your plants to gently wash smoke particulates off plant leaves.

If your houseplants were outdoors during a smoke event, ‘you’ll have to clean them and flush them too,’ Langelo says.

If you have advanced warning of a wildfire in the area, consider bringing those houseplants “vacationing” outdoors back into the home to avoid the smoke and ash altogether.

One key tip Langelo points out: Don’t fertilize right away. ‘That will stress them even more,’ she warns. Instead, wait until plants show signs of new growth, usually after two to four weeks, before applying light fertilizer.

What smoke really does to plants

Smoke doesn’t just sit on plant surfaces, it changes their environment. ‘Smoke blocks sunlight and increases temperature, which in turn increases evaporation... it’ll dry out plants,' says Langelo.

This can be especially harmful to perennials and flowering shrubs, which may suffer from wilting, leaf scorch or slowed growth.

And for vegetable gardeners, there’s more bad news: 'Smoke itself will reduce yields on vegetable crops,' Langelo adds. ‘It reduces photosynthesis, which stunts growth and eventually can kill them, or make them more susceptible to pests and diseases.’

However, many plants have defense mechanisms. Ponderosa pines, for example, have an astonishing strategy: ‘They actually closed their stomata and held their breath until it was over,’ says Langelo, referring to their response to wildfire smoke. This kind of adaptation is a reminder that nature often finds its own way to cope with stress.

Pruning and watering

If some of your plants show damage, think browning leaves, wilting or stunted growth, take a light hand when it comes to pruning.

‘I would prune to help them, absolutely,’ says Langelo. She suggests trimming only the dead or severely damaged parts and allowing time for new growth to emerge before taking further action.

QVC has bypass pruners to help you make quick work of the post-smoke pruning.

As for watering, more is not always better. ‘If they're somewhat damaged... water them regularly, but don’t make it a habit,’ Langelo cautions.

Too much regular watering can create dependency and weaken the plants’ ability to adapt.

Fire can actually help some plants

It may seem counterintuitive, but fire can be a trigger for growth, especially in ecosystems like California's Mediterranean climate.

‘There are plants whose seeds only germinate after fire, presumably because of some chemicals in the smoke,’ says Sterman.

‘There is Tecate cypress ... that cone only opens after it’s been superheated. The seeds are inside, protected during the fire, but the cone opens up and the seeds fall out because of the heat.’

This phenomenon is not limited to California. Sterman explains that plants in all five of the world’s Mediterranean climate regions share similar adaptations.

'It’s more reason to use California natives [in California],’ she says, ‘but it’s also a reason to use plants that are native to Mediterranean regions... because they have evolved to recover from fire.’

If you’re inspired to replant or restore a damaged area, consider native or fire-adapted species. Many even respond to “liquid smoke” as a germination cue, an innovative (and safer) way to recreate fire's positive effects in a garden setting.

Ash, soil and recovery

Ash and charcoal aren’t always the enemy. In fact, they can offer some long-term benefits.

‘Charcoal... will attract herbicides and other toxins... it actually helps flush them out over time,' Langelo notes.

And while it’s true that particulates can find their way into the soil, removing or replacing them isn’t usually feasible. ‘It is what it is to a certain degree,’ she says.

Fire-smart landscaping

When it comes to protecting your home from fire, planting choices are only part of the equation. ‘A home’s vulnerability is dependent on how it is built, how the structure is built, and its location,’ Sterman explains.

‘If you look at photos of recent fires... you see lots and lots of trees still standing. They’re green, and the house is gone.’

And some of the fire-safe landscaping advice provided by local officials, such as plants appropriate for placing around a home in a fire-prone region, is outdated or flat-out inaccurate.

‘I talked to the horticulturist at the local botanic garden after a big fire many years ago, asking about references for their “fire safe plants” list and he said to me, ‘Oh, that’s an old list that was done by a volunteer who took a bunch of leaves home and put them in his oven,’ Sterman recounts.

Instead, focus on proper irrigation, thoughtful plant selection, and regular maintenance. ‘Hydrated plants near your house are much more protective,’ Sterman adds.

FAQs

Are there any clear indications that my plants have suffered from toxic smoke damage?

If you suspect damage from smoke, watch for signs of wilting, stunted growth, or discolored leaves.

These may show up days or even weeks after exposure. ‘Keep track of what is burning in your area,’ Langelo advises. ‘Some of these chemicals can take up to 21 days with their residuals.’

Will ash and smoke residue harm my plants, and should I wash it off?

Light ash and smoke residue are generally not harmful to most plants. In fact, they can provide beneficial nutrients like carbon and nitrogen.

However, it's a good idea to rinse off leaves with clean water to remove particulates that may interfere with photosynthesis or clog leaf pores. This also helps prevent long-term buildup and potential stress, especially for vegetables and delicate ornamentals.

To protect against future smoke and ash exposure, consider installing shade cloth or protective covers over vegetable crops.

Even if a fire isn’t nearby, airborne pollutants can travel miles, Langelo points out. Most importantly, give your garden time. As Langelo puts it, ‘Plants have an amazing ability to recover, and they will take their time doing it, because they have a built-in system where they feed themselves.’

As Sterman advises, keeping plants well-hydrated goes a long way in protecting them from both fire and smoke. We’ve prepared a guide on deep watering that will help your garden and landscape plants thrive and recover, and look beautiful.

As a professional gardener, I’ve worked in many different places, ranging from high-maintenance London courtyards to vast and rolling estate gardens in Tuscany. And if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that plants grow, perform and spread in unexpected ways. Some of the most popular garden perennials and shrubs, those you’ll find in any nursery or local plant store, can turn out to be remarkably aggressive, especially in the wrong setting.

And I don’t mean they’ll grow vigorously. I am talking about plants that smother natives, take over woodlands, and, in some cases, spread many miles from the original planting site. Some are so tenacious that they can require professional help to get rid of them, and, importantly, they can escape your yard and spread elsewhere (which might not prove popular with your neighbors).

Of course, plant performance varies from place to place. What might dominate in one region may play nicely in another. Here are five popular plants that are invasive that I have come across in my time as a horticulturist. Plus, I share what I’d recommend instead, after years of trial and error involving a range of invasive plants.

5 popular plants that are invasive

While it will vary in different regions and US hardiness zones, there will always be invasive trees and invasive perennials that grow a little too well.

Some plants, outside of their native range, can quickly become unmanageable, such as the tree of heaven, burning bush or Japanese honeysuckle.

After several years working as a gardener, here are five popular plants that are invasive that might surprise you, and the species I recommend growing instead.

1. Lily of the valley

There’s no denying that lily of the valley is a beautiful ground cover plant. The floral scent is, in my opinion, hard to beat, but what you might not know is that once it’s happy, lily of the valley runs and runs, and can become an invasive bulb in certain settings.

As a woodland plant that thrives under trees and shrubs, it can become a problem in wet, shady and mild settings in zone 4 to zone 8.

Take Maine, for example, where it has become a serious issue and is pushing out native plants. The root system is persistent, and removal can be a nightmare.

As invasive plants go, it is undeniably lovely, I'll grant you. But, if you aren't able to manage its spread, I would recommend avoiding the standard lily of the valley, or Convallaria majalis, and opting instead for the pink-flowering Convallaria majalis var. rosea, which is just as pretty but far less aggressive.

Pink-flowering lily of the valley bulbs are available from Amazon.

One final point to note is that lily of the valley is a poisonous plant, so if you have a young family or inquisitive dogs or cats, the pink flowering variety might be a species to avoid, as all parts are toxic.

2. Daylily

Common daylilies, or Hemerocallis fulva, are some of the longest-flowering perennials that typically produce masses of orange blooms all summer long.

While this might sound appealing, or you might spot daylilies growing in a neighboring plot and fancy trying this species in your yard, it is important to know that they are considered invasive in several US states, including Virginia and Michigan.

Once it’s settled, it’s nearly impossible to shift, thanks to its thick, fleshy roots that become incredibly dense. For this reason, many consider daylilies as ditch plants, in that they can grow and spread seemingly anywhere. Daylilies are certainly plants I will never grow again.

In my experience, they can quickly escape backyard settings and spread along roadsides and in moist woods and meadows, where they form dense mats that choke out native plants.

Instead, for a vibrant orange perennial, try learning how to grow milkweed, an impressive native species that is also the host plant for monarch butterflies.

Live orange butterfly milkweed plants, or Asclepias tuberosa, can be ordered via Amazon, and can be grown in sun or part shade from zone 4 to zone 10.

3. Rhododendron

In the UK, you’ll find the purple-flowering Rhododendron ponticum draping hillsides and roadside banks in clouds of lilac.

I remember admiring it when I was a teenager driving through the countryside, before I learned what a menace it truly is.

Of course, many of us enjoy growing rhododendrons, and these flowering shrubs are remarkably popular worldwide. However, while most varieties are non-aggressive, Rhododendron ponticum is one shrub I will never grow.

This species is a thug, and in damp, mild conditions, like parts of the Pacific Northwest, it can quickly take over woodlands. The dense foliage blocks light, preventing anything from growing beneath it.

If you love rhododendrons, and I am sure you do, opt for something like Rhododendron macrophyllum, otherwise known as the Pacific rhododendron.

This native rhododendron can be grown from zone 6 plus, and boasts deep pink blooms and behaves far more kindly to the ecosystem around it.

I also love the look of this pink-flowering Rhododendron 'Roseum Elegans', with live plants available to order now via Amazon, which would look good in any setting, including in pots.

4. Lantana

Lantana camara is a favorite of many gardeners for obvious reasons. After all, the showy pink, purple, yellow and orange blooms are rather unusual, and can really transform small yards and patios.

However, what might surprise you is that this colorful, cheery plant is considered thuggish across North America, including in Hawaii and California.

Of course, you can learn how to grow lantana in pots, or deadhead lantana to limit its spread, but if you want to save yourself the worry, I would recommend learning how to grow something less vigorous.

For example, try bee balm, or Monarda, for a North American perennial that hummingbirds and bees adore.

Live bee balm starter plants can be ordered now via Walmart and can be grown from zone 3 to zone 9. Just be sure to get them in the ground on a mild day and give them a good, deep watering.

5. Nandina

I’ve grown Nandina domestica, or sacred bamboo, in a range of gardens in London. And, while it’s one of the easiest evergreen shrubs to grow, in many US states, it grows a little too well.

Indeed, this popular species has invaded forests throughout the Southeast United States, including in Georgia and Florida, and can prove very problematic once it is established.

So, while I have never had any issues with growing this in London, this species might be one to avoid in warmer regions where it can sucker and spread.

If you want to enjoy shrubs with winter berries, try the native American beautyberry, or Callicarpa americana, with live plants available via Amazon.

This unusual species can be grown from zone 6 in sunny spots, and produces masses of purple berries that will look impactful during the colder months of the year.

Another popular plant that you might not realise is invasive is mint. This aromatic herb can quickly establish and spread, and if left alone, can get out of control.

Instead, it is best to grow unique mint varieties in pots, where you can easily control them.

I love growing pineapple mint, with live plants available at Amazon, which can be restricted in pots, and will elevate your summer suppers and drinks.

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Ticks are problematic, bloodsucking pests that may or may not be a concern for you depending on where you live. They lurk, hide, creep and crawl in long grass and wild areas with dense vegetation, such as in meadows and woodlands. While an itchy bite is less than ideal during summer, the problem is that these pests carry harmful bacteria, including Lyme disease.

More and more of us are seeking natural planting solutions instead of dousing yards in harmful chemicals. One option, then, is using tick-repellent ground covers that are known to contain compounds that prove unattractive to pests. For example, wormwood, or Artemisia absinthium, as seen in the image above, is a beautiful silver-leaved species, but contains a bitter compound that's unappealing to both ticks and their hosts, namely mice and deer.

Of course, using plants to repel ticks is not a guaranteed solution. In my experience, ticks, mosquitoes and other irritating pests will always find a way. But, by incorporating one, two or all of these best ground cover plants that are known to repel ticks, you can help to reduce the risk, particularly when used around your backyard pathways and patio areas. Here are five tick-repellent plants that I have grown before, with tips I have picked up during my career as a professional gardener.

5 tick-repellent ground covers

It is estimated that more than 500,000 new cases of Lyme and other tick-borne diseases are contracted each year in the US, and rising.

For this reason, learning how to repel ticks in your yard is important, and anything you can do to keep pests at bay (without using chemicals) is a good idea.

Here are five tick-repellent ground covers that can help, with advice on planting and aftercare that I have picked up during my time working in public and private gardens across Europe.

1. Wormwood

Wormwood, or Artemisia, is one of the best plants with silver foliage, but more than simply looking good, this shrub contains chemical compounds that are known to repel ticks.

Scientific papers have long shown that absinthin, a bitter compound found in wormwood, can help to repel ticks and mosquitoes, plus it is even considered one of the best wasp-repellent plants.

Wormwood grows no taller than three or four feet, doing best in sunny spots from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9. As a Mediterranean garden plant, wormwood prefers well-draining soil, so it is best to avoid soggy or damp borders.

I have grown wormwood on several occasions, most recently in Tuscany, where I found it to be one of the best heat-resistant ground cover plants, ideal for sunny yards that host large populations of ticks.

Live wormwood starter plants can be ordered now via Amazon.

2. Catmint

I have been a fan of catmint as a long-flowering perennial for many years, valuing it as one of the best plants that flower twice, which is a nice perk.

And, not only does this flowering ground cover plant look (and smell) amazing, but catmint, or Nepeta cataria, contains nepetalactone, a compound that is known to be a highly effective natural tick repellent.

Learning how to grow catmint is relatively straightforward, and this perennial that thrives on neglect can be planted down to zone 3, ideally in sunny spots and free-draining soil.

Plant them in groups near patio areas, deadheading and chopping back through the summer to enjoy a second flush during the growing season.

Live catmint plants can be ordered now via Walmart.

3. Creeping thyme

One of the best pet-friendly ground cover plants, creeping thyme, or Thymus serphyllum, is another good option for those gardeners struggling with backyard ticks.

Thyme contains chemical compounds thymol and carvacrol, which are known to repel ticks and other irritating pests. So, adding this underrated plant to your yard, particularly if you are seeking species for no-grass backyard ideas, is sensible.

In my experience, you can't walk over creeping thyme, so it is not a good idea if you are looking for a lawn alternative for high traffic areas.

I would suggest positioning wild, long grass areas to the back of your plot away from where you entertain and walk, opting instead for a creeping thyme lawn near to seating areas or paths.

Creeping thyme can be grown from zone 4 to zone 9, ideally in a sunny spot. In southern regions, afternoon shade will help to protect your thyme lawn, whereas in cooler regions, full sun is best. In very hot and dry summers, your thyme will benefit from occasional watering.

Live creeping thyme plants can be ordered from Amazon.

4. Santolina

Santolina, or cotton lavender, is another aromatic herb that I adore. The foliage contains a pungent (but pleasing) scent that repels a number of insects, including ticks and fleas.

One of the best drought-tolerant flowering perennials, Santolina can be grown from zone 6 plus, ideally in a full sun position with free-draining soil.

I have grown it myself on two occasions, once in a gravel garden and once in free-draining soil, and found it to be tough and reliable, requiring no supplemental water or feed once established.

During summer, the silver foliage is complemented by yellow blooms, as you can see above, which will add a pop of long-lasting color to borders through July and August.

Live Santolina starter plants can be ordered via Amazon.

5. Lavender

Lavender might smell wonderful to us, but it is detestable to ticks, making this fragrant herb a useful plant to grow in regions with high pest populations.

There are many lavender varieties to try, including French lavender, Lavendula stoechas, or English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, both of which offer remarkable floral scent when grown in the border or pots.

In general, when learning how to grow lavender, this herb thrives in sunny spots and free-draining soil down to zone 5.

Lavender is also considered one of the easiest ground cover plants to grow. I have even grown it in poor soils with high gravel and rock content, and it has done just fine, so even if you think your yard is of low fertility, you can still give it a try.

Live lavender plants can be ordered now from Walmart.

FAQs

Is garlic good for repelling ticks?

Learning how to grow garlic is a good idea if you want to repel ticks and other pests. Research has shown that many garlic plants contain key compounds that will repel ticks and mosquitoes. For example, society garlic, or Tulbaghia violacea, is a good option for keeping ticks at bay, as it produces a strong aroma that ticks hate (and so do other pests, including deer). Live society garlic plants can be ordered now via Nature Hills.

Whatever ground covers you decide to grow, just be sure to complete some deep watering during the first few months, to give your plants the best chance of success.

For more information, see our guide on best snake-repellent plants, to keep garter snakes, rat snakes and corn snakes out of your yard this year.

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A Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) makes a dazzling addition to any space, bringing a tropical vibe with showy trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom over a long period from midsummer into fall.

The flowering shrub can reach 8-12 feet, and offers gardeners an easy-to-grow addition in US hardiness zones 5-9. And where you live can impact when to plant Rose of Sharon shrubs.

If you want to add one of these glorious shrubs to your yard, knowing when to plant Rose of Sharon for your climate makes getting it established simpler. Discover the ideal planting windows for your location to have healthy shrubs and fantastic flowering displays that not only look amazing but also attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

A guide to when to plant Rose of Sharon

Without starting on a downer, we must give a warning about planting the Rose of Sharon.

While the shrubs are showy and beautiful, they are considered invasive plants in four states as they can prolifically self-seed. Those states are Kentucky, Pennsylvania, Virginia, and Tennessee.

If you have worries about the plant spreading in your garden, you can plant sterile cultivars of it or deadhead plants to prevent self-seeding.

There are native hibiscus varieties to consider that are not invasive, such as the Texas Star Hibiscus or the rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos).

When to plant Rose of Sharon, depending on your climate

Knowing when and how to plant shrubs guarantees you the best chance of them thriving when they are added to your backyard ideas.

There are two ideal windows to plant Rose of Sharon, namely spring or fall, and it may depend on your climate or US hardiness zone for which works best for you.

Spring offers a great chance to plant Rose of Sharon if you live in a northern area that experiences cold winters. It is vital to wait until after the last frost to plant shrubs, so they establish quickly in cooler conditions and regular rainfall.

A spring planting in April or May gives the shrub ample time to establish a strong set of roots and stand it in good stead when temperatures rise in summer.

In warmer climates with milder winters, there is also the opportunity to plant Rose of Sharon shrubs in the fall. The window comes between the peak of summer temperatures dropping off and the first light frost.

Planting Rose of Sharon shrubs in the fall in cooler zones gives plants time to develop roots in warm, moist soil before the onset of winter. If you plant Rose of Sharon in the fall, they will flower strongly the following year.

While it is doable, it is not advisable to plant Rose of Sharon in the summer. Shrubs will be available to purchase in garden centers, nurseries, or online, but it can be a planting mistake to plant them in hot summer temperatures, mainly because they require a lot of painstaking watering.

Sticking to planting in spring or fall makes your life easier. It prevents lots of battling with garden hoses or lugging around heavy watering cans to keep the soil moist enough in summer for newly-planted shrubs.

How to plant Rose of Sharon - quick planting tips

Plant Rose of Sharon in a sunny position in the garden, somewhere that gets at least six hours of sunlight. It can grow in part-shade, but flowering will be affected. It likes a rich, well-draining soil type and should be protected from strong winds in open sites.

Rose of Sharon shrubs should be planted 6-8 feet apart to give them adequate space to develop, but dwarf varieties of Rose of Sharon can be planted closer together, around 3-4 feet apart.

To plant Rose of Sharon, use a sharp digging spade to make a large hole as deep as the plant’s root ball and up to two times as wide.

Remove the shrub from its container and gently loosen the roots before placing it into the hole. Ensure it sits level with the soil and at the same level as in the nursery pot, and fill in around the root ball with soil. Gently press down the soil to remove any air pockets.

The Rose of Sharon will require regular deep watering to develop strong roots. It is beneficial to mulch around the shrub with a two-inch layer of organic matter, such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold.

This offers a three-fold advantage as it retains moisture in the soil, smothers weeds to reduce competition, and provides some nutrients as the mulching material breaks down.

A Rose of Sharon can be a low-maintenance shrub to add to your garden for bold flowers in late summer. One job you do need to remember is to prune a Rose of Sharon. The job may not be required annually, but it is recommended at least every few years.

Prune in late winter or early spring. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or weak branches ahead of gently shaping the shrub and removing any suckers.

I love finding ways to add personal touches to my garden. It's a lovely way to really make an outdoor space your own, and what better way to do so by growing plants specific to your person? That's exactly why I'm obsessing over birth month trees.

Just like birth month flowers offering personalized blooms and birth month herbs offering tasty and fragrant plants for each person, birth month trees provide the opportunity to add luscious foliage and tall structure to your yard that have some meaning behind them.

The history behind it is also fascinating. It all stems from the Celtic Tree Calendar, an ancient astronomical framework. Intrigued to find out more? Look no further. I've compiled information on all 13 birth month trees (yes, 13, it doesn't exactly line up with the 12 months we know) and what they represent, plus tips on how to grow them.

What are birth month trees?

The Celtic Tree Calendar became popular in 1948, in the publication of The White Goddess (available on Amazon) by British poet and mythologist, Robert Graves.

Robert reinterpreted the Ogham alphabet, an ancient Irish writing system which linked each character with a tree or plant. From there, he theorized that the Celts used a lunar tree calendar.

Now, birth month trees have become a beautiful way to celebrate individuals, even making a charming addition to memory gardens for loved ones.

So, if you're keen to find out what your birth month tree is, take a look below – just remember to look for a variety that can grow in your US hardiness zone before rushing to add yours to your yard.

December 24 – January 20: Birch

At the top of the Celtic Tree Calendar is birch, and these really are wonderful trees to have in your yard. In Celtic tradition, they represent renewal and rebirth, which is why their designated to the start of the year.

There are plenty of birch trees to choose from, the majority of them being trees with white bark that provide a stark contrast to the other greenery in your yard.

Not only this, but birch trees actually provide lots of fall color, with foliage turning bright yellow and orange tones in the second half of the year.

Just make sure to maintain consistent moisture by regularly watering and mulching your birch tree.

Find a birch tree for your yard at Fast Growing Trees.

January 21 – February 17: Rowan

For those born mid-January to mid-February, rowan trees are your birth month tree. They represent protection and intuition, a great tree to uplift the darker days in a winter garden.

Growing rowan trees is fairly straightforward, too, so long as you position it in a sunny spot in well-draining soil.

It's also important to prune rowan trees during late winter to early spring, removing any damaged branches and foliage ahead of the growing season. Use loppers (like these from Amazon) to make clean cuts when doing so.

February 18 – March 17: Ash

In the Celtic Tree Calendar, Ash trees are thought to be a source of poetic vision and creativity. It's not hard to see why, with its beautiful range of green, red, and yellow leaves – like this Autumn Purple Ash Tree from Fast Growing Trees.

Something to note, however, is Ash trees are on the list of trees to avoid planting to close to you house. This is because they have such extensive root systems that can cause damage to pipes and infrastructure.

Nevertheless, the sheer size of these trees (up to 80 feet) certainly make them ones to wow in your yard.

They do best in well-draining, fertile soil types, often found in British woodlands, making them a good choice if you're looking to add woodland plants to your yard.

March 18 – April 14: Alder

Alder trees are thought to symbolize courage and determination, standing tall with quite dense foliage. For those born in March–April, this is a great tree to add to your yard.

The good news is they're also some of the best trees for clay soil, tolerating wetter conditions and poorer soil types.

They provide year-round interest, too, with yellow catkins on display from late winter into spring which turn into cones in fall.

If you have an alkaline soil in your yard, consider making your soil more acidic for these trees. You can test your soil's pH with this soil test kit from Amazon and then use these pH adjusters from Amazon to amend as needed.

April 15 – May 12: Willow

Willow is the birth month tree for mid-April to mid-May, representing connection to the water and wisdom. It's the perfect tree for those with a large garden pond and those wanting to create a whimsical feel in a fairy garden.

There are lots of types of willow to choose from, from the fast-growing tree for privacy of weeping willow to smaller varieties for container gardens.

These flamingo willow tree cuttings from Amazon can start you off with a willow tree for pots, for example.

Just make sure to plant in a sunny location, as willows thrive best in a direct sun position. A shady spot is likely to sunt growth.

May 13 – June 9: Hawthorn

In the midst of spring, hawthorn is the birth month tree to take center stage. In the Celtic Tree Calendar, hawthorns represent love and protection. They even form an important role in Beltane, a Gaelic festival to celebrate the start of summer.

In May, Hawthorn is full of white, and sometimes pink, blossoms.

'I'm pleased to know this is my birth month tree as I adore the blossom in spring,' says Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull. 'I love using them in my floral designs for this reason,' she adds.

They're also good choices for trees for small gardens. For example, this Snow White Indian Hawthorn Shrub from Fast-growing Trees reaches a mature height of five feet.

When growing these trees, it's important to know when to prune a hawthorn. Late winter is best while the tree is in dormancy, reducing stress and keeping the tree healthy. You can use these Fiskars loppers from Amazon to do so.

June 10 – July 7: Oak

This is one of the easiest British trees to identify by leaf, thanks to is iconic lobed shape. In the birth month tree tradition, it's one of the most powerful trees, linked to longevity and stability.

They grow in a wide range of soil types, tolerate full sun to partial shade, and require consistent moisture.

I've actually grown an oak tree from an acorn, a fun and easy project to do. You can even buy acorn oak tree growing kits from Amazon to get you started – or to gift to the early summer baby in your life.

Remember to prune your oak tree during their dormant period to keep it healthy and shapely.

July 8 – August 4: Holly

Holly happens to be my own birth month tree, which I am delighted to know as I moved into a home with a holly bush earlier this year – perhaps it was just meant to be. In Celtic tradition, holly symbolizes nobility and resilience.

Although you may associate holly with being one of the best shrubs with winter berries, they also produce dainty white flowers in spring. Plus, their evergreen foliage can be enjoyed throughout the year.

I personally have a variegated holly, which has gorgeous yellow and green leaves. It's easy to grow holly and care for it, too. I just prune my holly bush in spring to shape it and encourage new growth to establish ahead of the colder seasons.

Find a holly bush for your yard at Nature Hills.

August 5 – September 1: Hazel

Hazel trees are loved for their edible hazelnuts (pictured above) which are ready to harvest between September and October. They also have versatile wood which you can use to build hazel plant supports.

For those born in August to the start of September, it's a birth month tree representing knowledge.

Hazels tend to be smaller trees, ideal for small garden ideas. In fact, you can even grow some varieties in pots. Or, opt for a showstopper variety, like this American Hazelnut Filbert Tree from Fast Growing Trees.

It's key to prune your hazel tree in its early years to establish a strong structure for future growth.

September 2 – September 29: Vine

Although this isn't technically a tree, grape vine is thought to be symbolic of joy and celebration in the Celtic Tree Calendar, likely linked to the wine you can make from grapes, of course.

It's one of the best fruiting plants, although growing grapes does require some specific conditions to be successful. This includes planting in fall, positioning it somewhere with plenty of direct sun, and ensuring its soil doesn't become waterlogged.

To help with fruit production, it's vital to get grape vine pruning right. This involves pruning a bit differently each year (which you can find information about in our linked guide) and using the right essential pruning tools. These pruning shears from Amazon are a good fit.

September 30 – October 27: Ivy

Another one that isn't a tree in the traditional sense, but common ivy is the birth month tree for the majority of October babies. It's symbolic of perseverance and survival in the Celtic tradition.

Of course the good news about ivy is you can grow it both indoors and grow ivy as a houseplant, making it a good gift for loved ones with a birthday at this time. You can find an ivy houseplant at The Sill.

I actually have an ivy houseplant and it is one of the easiest to look after. When caring for ivy, you can get away with neglecting it a little and placing it in a lower light spot. This reflects their native habitat in woodlands, among other areas.

I've found that the best way to promote more growth is to prune your ivy. Just like hair, the more you cut it, the more it will grow. That's why I have these pruning snips from Amazon in my plant care kit.

October 28 – November 24: Reed

Again, this isn't quite a tree but it does earn its spot on the Celtic Tree Calendar as the birth month tree representing honest expression, with musical instrument links to reed.

Reed is one of the best ornamental grasses for movement in the wind. It's commonly grown as a pond plant, due its love for wetter conditions.

It also offers stunning fall color, with its green foliage turning bronze in the latter half of the year.

Find a feathered reed grass for your yard at Nature Hills.

November 25 – December 23: Elder

The final birth month tree on the Celtic Tree Calendar is elder, a tree loved for its versatility in the yard. You can grow elder trees of all different colors and sizes, and berries.

As a birth month tree, elder represents completion and reflection as it rounds up the year. It's also a medicinal plant in many ways, including having antiviral properties.

Elders are actually some of the most low-maintenance trees, known to grow and thrive with just minimal attention.

It is important, however, to prune an elderberry shrub in spring if you want to encourage a large production of those gorgeous purple-black berries later in the year.

Find an elder bush at Fast Growing Trees.

FAQs

Are birth month trees significant for their month?

Many birth month trees are associated with a specific time of year because there is something significant happening at that time. For example, hawthorn is a May birth month tree and this is the time of year it's in blossom. Likewise, hazel is the birth month tree for August, when hazelnuts are developing to be harvested in fall.

If you love the idea of selecting plants personal to your person, then you might also want to read our guide to zodiac houseplants for your indoor garden.

When I worked in Tuscany as a professional gardener, the summers were relentless. Often, it was 100°F (40°C) by mid-morning, not exactly the dream conditions for a little spot of weeding. But one thing that helped ease the pressure was incorporating dependable, heat-resistant ground covers that have evolved to handle the Italian summer without a worry.

Take creeping thyme or prostrate rosemary, for example. Both aromatic, both lovely to look at, but crucially, both unbothered by scorching heat and a lack of rain. No irrigation, no fuss. Just silver-green foliage creeping calmly over gravel, shielding the soil and handling the heat.

So, as many of us now face longer, hotter summers and scorched lawns by July, it makes sense to turn to plants with Mediterranean credentials. The ones that evolved to survive cruel summers, and still look good doing it. Here are five of the best drought-tolerant ground cover plants I’ve used in Tuscany and beyond; plants that earn their keep, conserve water, and keep your garden from looking sad and scorched by midsummer.

5 tough, heat-resistant ground covers I grew in Tuscany

Planting smart is everything. In recent years, high-maintenance flowers or thirsty ground covers in warm (or even mild) US hardiness zones have struggled with long, dry summers.

So, seeking out low-maintenance drought-tolerant plants, especially those with silver foliage (a natural trait that reflects sunlight and helps plants stay cool), is wise.

Below, I’ve picked five of the very best sun-loving ground covers I’ve grown myself, some of which you can see in the photo above that I took when working near Pienza in southern Tuscany.

1. Lamb's ear

In Tuscany, lamb’s ear grew beautifully in the gravel garden, where it happily crawled along the ground with little care needed, and no additional water or supplemental feed. They really are ground cover plants that thrive on neglect.

In terms of how to grow lamb's ears, or Stachys byzantina, this full sun ground cover plant thrives in sun-drenched yards and can grow in a range of terrains, including poor soil, from zone 4 to zone 10.

Lamb's ear starter plants can be ordered online from Walmart.

And, not only is it one of the best plants with silver foliage that can handle summer heat and drought, but it also produces pink flower spikes during spring, as you can see in the image here.

The pink flowers can quickly turn brown during hot weeks, in my experience, so I would suggest deadheading them to not detract from that nice sea of silvery green foliage that you can enjoy year-round.

Try these Fiskars extendable pruners, available from Amazon, to get the job done.

2. Rosemary

Rosemary needs little introduction, but the prostrate, creeping variety, Rosmarinus officinalis 'Prostratus Group', is particularly good if you are seeking heat-resistant ground covers.

Creeping rosemary live plants can be ordered right now via Amazon.

In terms of how to grow rosemary, this aromatic herb is hardy in zone 8 plus, and thrives in full sun and most soils (although it does not like sitting in waterlogged ground).

With edible evergreen foliage, this is both a plant that offers value in the yard and the kitchen, with a sprig or two being a nice addition for many dishes.

I have found that rosemary is one of the best drought-tolerant shrubs, needing no additional water or protection from the harsh summer sun.

One tip would be to prune your rosemary in spring once flowering has finished, which will help to prevent your herbs from becoming woody or straggly, which can happen over time if they are left alone for too long.

3. Brachyglottis

If you want tough-as-old-boots evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect, try Brachyglottis. Particularly the silver-leaved ‘Sunshine’ variety. I grew this in Italy and loved the contrast: golden daisy-like blooms against soft, silvery foliage, not unlike Artemisia.

They can be grown from US hardiness zone 8 and perform best in full sun. Their mature height is usually around five feet tall, and annual trimming during April or May will keep them in a compact, bushy shape.

In my experience, these are ideal plants if you want drought-tolerant planting ideas that won't get sun-scorched when the mercury peaks.

For another easy shrub with silver foliage, try growing Russian sage, with live plants available from Amazon, which is another low-maintenance option for sunny and dry yards.

4. Sage

Learning how to grow sage is pretty straightforward, so long as you provide plants with a bright, sunny spot and soil that is free-draining.

Live garden sage starter plants can be bought online at Walmart.

Hardy from zone 4 to zone 10, sage is one of the easiest herbs to grow, both in pots or borders.

During long, hot summers in Tuscany, it thrived and didn't require any supplemental watering or feeding. Truly, one of the best low-maintenance heat-resistant ground covers that doubles as a fragrant filler plant.

Just cut it back in midsummer to stop it from going leggy. To me, sage is a great anchor plant, and its evergreen structure is so valuable in drought-prone Italian gardens or Mediterranean-style gardens.

5. Santolina

With its silver foliage and golden-yellow flowers, santolina (sometimes referred to as cotton lavender) is a good option for a ground cover that can handle the heat.

I have grown santolina both in Italy and in a sunny gravel garden in London, and on both occasions, it proved itself to be tough and reliable.

These coastal plants are a good option if you reside near the coast and suffer from salt winds.

Santolina is hardy down to zone 6, thriving in full sun and with little water, thanks to its silver-green foliage that helps to limit water loss and reflect some of the sun's rays.

While they are some of the best drought-tolerant flowering perennials, they do require pruning to prevent them from getting leggy. I used to do this once in early spring (avoid cutting into the wood), and then again after flowering in midsummer.

Live santolina plants can be ordered via Amazon.

Whatever heat-resistant ground covers you decide to grow, just be sure to water well during the first year after planting. While these are all species that can handle drought and sun, they will need some care as they settle into your yard.

For more inspiration and ideas for sun-drenched gardens that can handle the heat, read my guide to La Foce, one of the most impressive historic Italian gardens.

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From wayward yew hedges to messy box domes, I have tackled (even wrestled) many shrubs and topiary plants in my years as a professional gardener. And let me tell you, effective tools make all the difference. I have learned to keep things light and cordless where I can, which can be transformative when you have many evergreens to trim during summer.

If you are wondering how to buy a hedge trimmer to help with your pruning jobs, it can feel overwhelming, what with so many products available online and in stores. But one brilliant little device for light shaping has caught my eye this week. And, at $40, this WorkPro mini hedge trimmer, available now via Amazon, is a steal that won't be in stock for long.

Lightweight, rechargeable and far easier on the wrists than heavy or clunky bigger models, this Workpro mini hedge trimmer is exactly the sort of low-stress tool I wish I’d discovered years ago. And judging by the thousands of positive reviews, I’m not the only one.

What are people saying about the Workpro mini hedge trimmer?

This cordless handheld trimmer is an essential gardening tool that has built up quite a fan base online.

On Amazon, it has nearly 9,000 reviews, with an overall rating of 4.3 stars, and approximately 70% rank it as a 5-star product, which I think is impressive, by any standard.

Many reviewers praise its lightweight nature, with several commenting that the Workpro mini hedge trimmer is perfect for pruning hedging plants in small yards or for people who might struggle with the weight or size of typical models.

One five-star review from June 2025 reads: 'Love this hedge trimmer... today I trimmed my juniper bush and it’s still going. It makes nice, smooth, even cuts.' The reviewer goes on to praise the lightweight model, but does say it is 'definitely not made for larger branches.'

Another reviewer from July 2025 praises how nimble this essential pruning tool is: 'I bought this to help cut down weeds and long grass between recently planted raspberry bushes. String trimming wouldn’t work because of the spacing. What would have been a two-hour thing... took less than 20 minutes!'

Some reviews do caution that the model lacks a lockability function, meaning you have to hold down two buttons when in use.

For example, one four-star reviewer from June 2025 commented: 'Though I appreciate the long battery life and the versatility of this tool, it isn’t the miracle solution I was hoping for... when my arthritis is bad, I can’t hold the two buttons down at the same time.'

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How to use mini hedge trimmers

This mini hedge trimmer couldn’t be easier to use. First, charge it fully using the provided Type-C cable. Once ready, the model is cordless, so there aren't any trailing wires to worry about.

While it may vary between models, most come with two interchangeable blades: a short hedge trimming blade for box, lavender and light shrub growth, and a grass shear blade for edges or tufty patches.

To switch blades, just click them into place, no tools needed. Slide the safety switch, press and hold the trigger, and you’re away to go.

One tip from me? Wipe the blades clean after each use with a damp rag to prevent yew or box sap from sticking. Then, it is best to store the trimmer somewhere dry, like a shed or garage.

This handy tool will prove useful if you have many plants to prune in July or August, such as box hedging or yew topiary. Just be sure to pick a dry day and trim early in the morning, to avoid the heat of midday that can stress plants.

For more pruning advice and inspiration, check out these Fiskars deadheading snips, which will prove useful for flowerbeds and cutting patches.

As a professional gardener, I’m always seeking out new ways to feed my plants. I have steeped nettles in old buckets to brew a nitrogen-rich foliar feed, hoarded banana skins from the trash for a potassium fix, and even smashed eggshells to make a calcium-rich powder to sprinkle around the yard. But one method, recently back in the news, is raising eyebrows: using urine as plant fertilizer. Yes, really.

Hear me out. The ancient Greeks and Romans did it, after all. And while not everything from classical times deserves a revival, using urine as plant fertilizer might be worth reconsidering. You may have recently seen reports or heard talk touting this seemingly odd but smart solution that is a cost-free fertilizer packed with the very nutrients plants crave.

So, if you are wondering how to make plant fertilizer this year – for lush foliage, greener lawns, or brilliantly blooming flower beds – it might be time to try an alternative approach. Below, I explain why urine works as a plant feed, how to use it correctly and reveal some mistakes to avoid. And, if you decide it is not for you? Well, that's fine, but it still makes for a good dinner party conversation topic (in select company, of course).

Why are gardeners using urine as plant fertilizer?

Human urine contains a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, otherwise known as plant fertilizer numbers 'NPK'.

These letters and numbers might be familiar to you, and you may recall seeing them listed on every commercial fertilizer label, which can be a little overwhelming at the garden nursery.

They needn't be confusing; just think that these numbers reveal the balance of elements contained in the feed, and different formulas have different results when it comes to plant and soil health.

You may have seen one or two headlines in recent months and years, with numerous scientific studies demonstrating that human urine can be safely utilized as a fertilizer. So, when used correctly, there is no need to worry about negative unintended consequences.

Nitrogen makes up the lion’s share of the composition of urine. In terms of what does nitrogen do for plants, it is best thought of as promoting vigorous leafy growth, which is why your lettuces and kale crops thrive with high-nitrogen feed.

If you want a nitrogen-rich feed but don't want to try using urine, which is understandable, try something like this organic fish emulsion fertilizer, available from Walmart, which has an NPK ratio of 5-1-1.

While phosphorus and potassium are also present in urine, the NPK ratio is estimated to lean heavily towards nitrogen (somewhere around the 10-1-2 level), so I would suggest thinking of a diluted urine fertilizer as a nitrogen-rich feed, rather than an all-purpose fertilizer.

Beyond nutrients, urine also plays a role in improving soil microbial activity. A 2024 study in Applied Soil Ecology found that urine increased the abundance of beneficial bacteria in soil, without disrupting the broader microbial ecosystem.

How to use urine as plant fertilizer

Using urine as plant fertilizer is incredibly simple, but there is one catch: you must dilute it.

For most plants, a 1:10 ratio of urine to water is ideal. That’s roughly one cup of urine to a watering can.

Once mixed, water your soil (not the foliage). Do this once every two or three weeks for vegetables and leafy crops.

While you can use urine as a plant fertilizer for perennials and flowers, you may find that the high nitrogen content reduces blooms.

So, in terms of the best fertilizer for flowers, I would instead suggest using something high in phosphorus and potassium, like this organic bloom booster feed by Espoma, available from Amazon now.

FAQs

Can I use urine as a lawn fertilizer?

Yes, you can use urine to fertilize a lawn, but the trick is to correctly dilute the solution to avoid burning the grass. Urine contains nitrogen, which is good for a healthy green lawn, but it is also high in salts, which can be harmful in concentrated amounts, so be sure to dilute at a 1:10 ratio (or even weaker), as recommended above.

Can I use urine to feed edible plants?

Yes, you can use urine to feed edible crops, but do so with care. Always dilute it and apply it to the soil, not the foliage. I would also suggest feeding only leafy crops, as opposed to root vegetables that you harvest from the soil.

So, while it may sound a bit strange, there are many benefits to using urine as plant fertilizer that is both free and all-natural. Plus, it is sustainable, and hasn't been produced far away and shipped to your region.

If you are still a little bit sceptical, why not start by learning how to put urine on compost, as the high nitrogen content will help to speed up decomposition. Our guide has all the information you need to get started.

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I’ve pruned a lot of plants in my time as a gardener. Some I had to tackle from atop a wobbly ladder, and at least once I had to take shears with me in a cherry picker, to confront a rather unmanageable wisteria. Through all of these experiences, one thing I have come to understand is that timing is crucial.

July pruning really matters. But, importantly, this month is not the time for a full garden chop-back (that’s for the dormant season during winter or early spring before everything kicks off), but, instead, this is the time for a quieter trim. A summer tidy, if you like. This is the moment for taming wayward stems, encouraging a second flush, and giving your plants a summer haircut.

So, from stately fruit trees to fragrant flowering shrubs, here are seven plants to prune in July that should be added to your summer gardening checklist.

7 plants to prune in July before it is too late

Pick your moment to prune wisely this month to avoid any pruning mistakes. Right now, both the US and UK are facing blistering heat waves, and if it's a scorching day (with temperatures above 80°F/ 26°C), step away from the pruners and delay your trimming. Pruning when it is too hot can cause real damage to the plant.

Regardless of where you live and your US hardiness zone, chances are, July will be a hot month. But, it is important to wait for a cool morning or an overcast afternoon, which will be easier on both your plants and on you.

It's also worth knowing that not all plants respond well to a summer trim. There are many plants not to prune in summer to be aware of, including hydrangeas and hibiscus.

But, the following species? These are the seven plants to prune in July that I know will benefit from a good tidy right now.

1. Lilac

I have cared for many lilac shrubs in my time gardening, and getting their maintenance right is important. After all, you wouldn't want to sacrifice any fragrant flowers in the following spring, would you?

In terms of when to prune lilac, these are spring-flowering shrubs, so they are good plants to trim after blooms look a little sad and have turned brown in summer.

They flower on old wood (or the previous year's growth), so really, early July is your last chance to trim.

If you are pretty happy with how your lilac looks, and the shape and density of your shrub seem fine, you might just need to lightly cut back the spent flowers, which will prevent your lilac from wasting energy on seed production.

If you need to thin your lilac, carefully remove some of the oldest stems, using a pruning saw to cut down to a healthy joint, which will help to open up the centre.

Use something like this highly rated Fiskars pruning saw, available via Amazon, which is far preferable to trying (and failing) to cut larger stems and branches with small pruners.

2. Californian lilac

California lilacs are some of the best flowering shrubs for full sun and will provide year-round interest in mild regions, including zone 8 and zone 9.

I've grown them in tricky dry beds and watched them thrive during long, hot summers without any help needed.

While they are beautiful, California lilacs, or Ceanothus spp., can get a bit scraggly, or a little leggy, especially after a few years of unchecked growth.

So, in terms of how and when to prune shrubs, simply remove a few inches of green growth in July. It is that simple, and doing so will keep your plant compact and in good health.

A word of warning: just don’t prune into old wood, as Ceanothus spp. can sulk or die back if cut too hard.

These Berry & Bird wooden pruners, available from Amazon, should get the job done without any challenge, and with an attractive wooden handle, will add that heritage feel to your garden shed.

3. Honeysuckle

In terms of when to prune honeysuckle, these are climbing plants to prune in June and July, once the flowers have faded.

This is not the case for all species, however, as some varieties of honeysuckle will still be in flower this month. If yours is still going strong, hold off pruning until the blooms are finished.

Prune any whippy stems to two or three leaf buds from the main framework, and snip away any dead or dying branches that have few leaves (and should be easy to spot).

If the base is getting woody and bare, cut one or two older stems down low to encourage new growth from below.

You can learn how to propagate honeysuckle in summer, if your plant is looking like it has seen better days. Or, alternatively, why not invest in a new vine?

For a native plant, why not grow coral honeysuckle, or Lonicera sempervirens, which does best from zone 4 plus and tolerates a range of soils and lighting situations.

Live coral honeysuckle plants are available from Amazon and will fill vertical surfaces with masses of fragrant peach-orange flowers for years to come.

4. Philadelphus

Immediately after flowering is the right time to prune mock oranges, or Philadelphus spp..

This, of course, will vary depending on where you live and the variety you grow, but July is usually a safe time to reach for the loppers.

The goal with mock orange pruning is to keep these tough shrubs in a nice shape, with good bushy growth, while also encouraging strong flowering stems next year. You don't need to trim masses, just enough to keep the shrub in good form.

However, there are many different mock orange varieties, and some smaller varieties won't generally need much trimming, if any.

Take this 'Snow White Sensation' mock orange, live plants available from Nature Hills, which grows no taller than four feet, and would only require a light prune.

These Felco high-performance pruners, available from Walmart, will make light work of any mock orange maintenance you need to do, and also have a useful red handle, making them easy to spot if you drop them in the border.

5. Snowball bush

In May and June, the branches of snowball viburnums are typically heavy with large, white pom-pom flowers. Once these blooms have finished, usually around late June and July, it is a good time to prune your snowball bush.

If your viburnum shrub is in good shape and relatively compact, all you need to do is a spot of deadheading, cutting any flowerheads off using your pruners.

However, snowball bushes are one of those shrubs that are prone to looking top-heavy and a little unruly if left without pruning for too long.

Indeed, without maintenance, they can reach up to 12 or even 15 feet, which may be a little too big in a smaller space.

So, little and often is a good approach to keep your shrub tidy and compact, but hold off on any hard pruning (rejuvenation pruning is best done in late winter or early spring).

6. Cherry trees

Summer is the best time to prune flowering cherry trees. The reason for this is that cherries, or Prunus spp., are rather vulnerable to disease if pruning is done in fall or winter.

So, to avoid any run-in with bacterial canker, or any other cold-weather disease or problem for that matter, give your flowering cherry trees in pots or borders a trim during July.

Simply remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches to allow air and light to access the crown of the tree.

For thicker branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon.

If you’ve got a young cherry tree, this is also the time to train it into its desired structure. Identify which stems are the ones you want to encourage in the years ahead, and gently support or stake as the young tree grows.

7. Deutzia

Deutzia is one of those shrubs that quietly steals the show in late spring, with frothy white flowers that look great as patio plants.

In my experience, by June and July, they have usually finished flowering and are ready for a small haircut.

These popular shrubs flower on old wood produced during the previous summer, so timely trimming in early July will give your deutzia plenty of time to produce new growth.

Follow the one-third pruning rule, cutting back the flowering stems by about a third to promote lots of new growth.

Whatever pruning tools you are using, be sure to keep them clean and sharp, which will make the job ten times more efficient.

There are many sharpening stones available online, and for a small investment, your tools will remain in tip-top trimming condition.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which is remarkably easy to use and highly rated.

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I’ve moved around a lot, and so have gardened in all sorts of settings. From a small, sun-trapped balcony in east London to a sprawling patch of countryside in the Chianti hills. And through all of that, I’ve learned a few things. Mostly from trial, error and the occasional emotional overreaction to a previously unknown flower.

I’ve come to understand what’s genuinely tough, what grows where, and which species are simply more trouble than they’re worth. And I confess, when it comes to planting choices, I’m entirely led by beauty. I want plants that make me feel something. I want plants that deliver moments of joy, calm, drama, and energy.

Of course, there’s always room to add, tinker and refine your backyard ideas. But if I were to begin again, in an imaginary space, these are the seven plants I would add first, including a mix of trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals. You might agree with these picks, be inspired by them, or ignore them entirely. The choice is up to you. Either way, indulge me while I declare my affection for each.

7 best plants to start a garden from scratch

The following seven plants to start a garden are, in my experience, tough, versatile and reliably brilliant, so they are ideal if you are planning a redesign in the coming year.

These trees, flowering shrubs and perennials have proven themselves to me time and again in different climates and soils, sun or shade, and still manage to deliver color, structure and joy.

1. Crab apple

Crab apple trees are some of the best trees for spring blossom, and, in my opinion, cannot be beaten during April. On seeing those white or pink flowers, you know that warmer weather is on the way.

When working as a horticulturist in Monmouthsire, in South Wales, we had five established pleached crap apple trees planted in a line near to the front door.

Pruning was essential to keep them perfectly neat and flat, but it was worth it. From April through October, songbirds and pollinators could not stay away.

In terms of how to plant crab apple trees, they can be grown down to zone 4, ideally in a sunny spot with moist but well-draining soil.

These low-maintenance trees come in a variety of shapes and styles, and can work just as well when used as a hedge, as a statement feature in the border, or even used as a container plant in a pot.

So, if you are starting a yard from scratch, crap apple trees, to me, offer structure, good seasonality, and unrivalled wildlife credentials. Low effort for high impact, and who wouldn't want that?

In terms of varieties, Malus ‘Evereste’ is a classic option, although Malus ‘Crimson Cascade’ makes an ideal focal point with its deep maroon blooms.

Crab apple tree starter plants can be ordered via Amazon. Be sure to give your new trees a good, deep watering on arrival, and get them in the ground as soon as possible.

2. Oak leaf hydrangea

I grew oakleaf hydrangeas, or Hydrangea quercifolia, en masse in a part-shaded woodland bed when working on a private estate near Pienza in Tuscany.

Under a gnarly old mulberry tree, no less, and I was genuinely amazed at how little they needed. Little attention (and no fertilizer) required.

Native to woodland habitats across North America, they can be found growing from North Carolina to Tennessee, Florida to Louisiana. They do best from zone 5 to zone 10, ideally in partial shade with moist soil.

Live oakleaf hydrangea plants can be ordered via Walmart.

In my opinion, oakleaf hydrangeas are one of the best hydrangea varieties you can grow, not least for the conical springtime white flowers, which tend to fade into pinkish bronze tones in summer.

And, in fall, the oak-like leaves turn the most astonishing mix of copper, red and rust. Really, quite wonderful.

They are one of those shrubs, I think, that just keep delivering every year after planting, making them a sensible option for a new garden.

3. Spurge

At the Garden Museum in London, just off the main path, tucked around the corner of an old tomb (really), we grew Euphorbia mellifera, otherwise known as the Canary or honey spurge.

As is the case for most spurges, this species was evergreen, retaining most of its foliage in a neat dome shape for fall and winter, so it is a useful shrub to provide structure in new gardens.

Come April, Euphorbia mellifera erupts with clusters of burnt-toffee flower heads that smell unmistakably of honey. Once inhaled, you will agree that this is surely one of the best fragrant shrubs.

This species does best in warmer regions, from zone 9 plus, but in a sheltered nook, as it was grown at the Garden Museum, you can provide adequate protection to keep it happy in cooler regions, too.

In terms of light and soil, most spurges are flowering shrubs for full sun, thriving with six or so hours of direct sun each day. They can be grown in nutrient-depleted, poor soils without much attention required.

For a hardier option that can be grown down to zone 6, try lime-green flowering 'Martin's Spurge', or Euphorbia x martinii, live plants available from Nature Hills.

Word of warning: these are poisonous plants, and the sap is toxic, so gloves are non-negotiable. I’ve had the misfortune of a nasty rash on my arms more than once when pruning spurges.

They bleed a milky white sap when cut or damaged, so it is best to wear a pair of long-handled gardening gloves, available from Walmart, and keep these plants away from paths or play areas.

4. Persicaria

I’ve grown a fair few persicarias in my time, from cottage garden borders in London to wilder, looser meadows in the English countryside.

And, if you’re after one of the longest-flowering perennials, with good foliage and blooms that pollinators love, you really can’t go far wrong.

Especially, I think, with jumpseed, a North American native that is one of my go-to perennial plant suggestions. One jumpseed variety I love is Persicaria virginiana var. filiformis, which has dark V-shaped markings on lime-green leaves.

Hardy down to zone 4, these are perennials that thrive on neglect, with no need to feed or water once they are established. They can also be grown in sun or shade, and take to almost any soil.

Most persicarias benefit from a good mid-season chop back, which in my experience encourages a second (sometimes even a third) flush of color. And, in a good year, they can keep flowering through to fall.

The only caveat? Many species are prolific spreaders and self-seeders, and outside of their native range, can sometimes be considered invasive plants.

This can be controlled with annual lifting and dividing, but always check what should and should not be planted by consulting the website of your local government office.

For a species with pale pink blooms and unique foliage markings, try this Vietnamese coriander, or Persicaria odorata, with live plants available from Amazon.

5. Aster

I’ve always had a soft spot for asters. Learning how to grow and care for asters is pretty simple, and, with long-lasting daisy flowers, what is not to love?

For a purple variety that will flower right up until the first frost, try growing aster 'Sapphire', with live plants available from Nature Hills.

There are many different aster varieties, but one woodland plant that I have grown before is Eurybia divaricata, or the white wood aster, which is a quiet sort of performer.

White wood aster live plants can be ordered at Amazon now.

Hardy down to zone 3, this species thrives in deep shade with little effort required, and then, just as everything else is beginning to fade, this aster kicks into action, with white blooms that often last from midsummer until mid-fall.

One thing to know with taller aster varieties is that the stems can flop, especially after a good fall downpour in October.

So, a little discreet staking early in the season sorts that out. Something made of willow or hazel should do the trick, nothing too fussy or formal.

I’ve never fed my asters, and they’ve never complained. Just a bit of mulching and dividing every couple of years. Low-maintenance, high-impact and a very elegant late bloomer.

6. Evergreen clematis

One of the best climbers to grow in pots or borders that can hide bare walls and fences is the evergreen clematis, or Clematis armandii.

This evergreen climber is that rare combination of useful and beautiful. The waxy, oval leaves add year-round texture, even in winter, and, in early spring, somewhere around April, it produces wonderful creamy white flowers that are hard to top.

In terms of how to grow evergreen clematis, I have found it does best in a sheltered spot, thriving from zone 6 to zone 9 in a sunny position.

While slow to establish, eventually this vine can reach up to 20 feet in length. But, in my experience, a little patience is needed for the first year or two whilst it settles.

I have grown Clematis armandii in pots on patios and along fences in city gardens, and the trick is to regularly tie in the stems to get it to grow where you want it. Other than that, it is an unfussy climbing plant that thrives on neglect.

For a native clematis option, try this Clematis virginiana, with live plants available from Walmart.

7. Cosmos

Cosmos annuals were one of the first flowers I ever grew, and I’ve loved them ever since.

And, in a new garden, growing any fast-growing flowering annuals (I could have also picked dahlias, zinnias, snapdragons, too) is essential, and can help to inject color and impact in a short amount of time.

I have grown many of the best types of cosmos, including ‘Apricot Lemonade’, which has peachy, salmon hues that I once became mildly obsessed with. And, they just kept going. Flowering through rain and wind and neglect, right through to mid-fall.

'Apricot lemonade' cosmos seeds can be ordered via Amazon.

The trick, when learning how to grow cosmos, is to keep snipping. Deadheading is crucial, and every few days, snip some stems for a vase. The more you cut, the more they give. Cosmos, and all annuals really, are generous plants.

One perennial option is ‘Chocolate Cosmos’, which can be planted down to zone 9, and is a good species if you are looking for a bit of drama, the crimson blooms working well especially against white asters or blush persicarias.

You can also grow cosmos in pots, too, which looks particularly colorful and impressive on a patio. Try this dark fibrestone Orren Ellis pot, available from Wayfair, which is stylish but also practical and lightweight.

FAQs

What bulbs are good investments for a new garden?

Planting bulbs is a sensible idea for any gardener, particularly so if you are starting in a new yard. I would suggest adding some tulips and daffodils that are naturalizing, meaning they will spread and return year after year, without any maintenance required.

Try growing species tulips, like Tulipa sylvestris, which is hardy down to zone 5, producing drooping golden-yellow blooms. In addition, the white-flowering Narcissus poeticus, or the pheasant's eye daffodil, looks great when planted through a meadow or grassed bank.

And, in a new garden, you can always rely on a few weeds to add greenery and blooms to borders and lawns.

Before reaching for your long-handled weeder, pause for a moment, and consider rethinking weeds, and whether or not you can leave that dandelion in the lawn or those clumps of clover growing in a crack along the path. Not only will they add a splash of color, but pollinators will be happy, too.

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Over the years I’ve worked as a professional gardener, I have clocked up hundreds of hours pruning. From rambling rose pergolas that stretch on and on, to fragrant wisteria vines clinging to the side of a house.

And, if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it is that sharp tools make all the difference. Indeed, getting into the habit of cleaning and sharpening pruning shears every few weeks is transformative (plus, it is what all the pro gardeners do on a regular basis).

There are plenty of sharpening tools out there, but the Okatsune sharpening stone for pruners, available via Amazon, is one that stands out – and the reviews prove it. So, before you bin your old loppers or secateurs, why not give them a second chance... you might be surprised by the result.

What are people saying about the Okatsune sharpening stone?

Many gardeners are impressed with the utility of this product. Several Amazon reviews highlight how effective this Okatsune sharpening stone is, working even on older, neglected essential pruning tools and rusty tools.

One five-star review in March 2025 stated that: 'The length makes it perfect for angular and corner usage.'

Another five-star review from July 2024 said: 'It's slender, so you can hold it in your hand and sharpen quickly; it feels moist and is easy to use even for beginners.'

Other reviews mention not only how simple this essential gardening tool is, but also how it can be used for a range of pruners, including loppers, shears, secateurs and scissors.

However, one three-star review, recorded in May 2025, commented that while it is effective, 'this whetstone is quite soft, so it wears out quickly.'

Some other reviews agreed, mentioning the softness of the stone, with indentations and marking visible, wondering how long it will last for.

So, while the reviews are overwhelmingly positive, it is important to consider that this sharpening stone might not last forever, suffering from wear and tear, gradually losing effectiveness as you sharpen your tools.

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How to use a sharpening stone

Using a sharpening stone is incredibly easy. To begin, it is crucial to learn how to clean pruning shears and secateurs, using soapy warm water. Then, dry thoroughly, using an old rag from the garden shed.

Holding the pruners steady, run the stone along the bevelled edge of the blade.

I always suggest following the curve and the angle of the blade, in a swooping motion, using smooth, even strokes, working from base to tip.

Depending on the state of your blades, five or so passes might do it. Although if you blades are in a poor quality, you might need to keep going for a minute or so.

Then, when you are happy, flip and lightly buff the flat side to remove any uneven bits or burrs.

A word of caution. Do not touch the sharpened blade. It will be incredible sharp, and can cause harm even with a light touch.

Finally, wipe clean with a damp rag. Then, I tend to dab a small amount of camellia oil, available from Amazon, lightly over the blades, to lubricate and protect steel blades from rusting.

So, whether you are pruning ninebark or pruning red twig dogwoods, or anything else for that matter, taking the time to sharpen your tools can really make this a far easier (and more enjoyable) experience.

For more garden maintenance information, see our guide on how to prevent pruning shears from rusting, and keep your tools in tip-top shape this year.

Over my time working as a gardener, I’ve planted many different Viburnum species. From the evergreen Viburnum tinus to the pink-flowering Viburnum davidii, both of which have unrivalled scent, these are spectacular shrubs that can provide that height and structure in borders.

With over 150 species and countless cultivars, you are sure to find a species to suit your tastes and needs. And, while they look good as statement shrubs in isolation, I actually think viburnums do best when surrounded by companion plants that add contrast in colour and texture.

So, maybe you already have an established shrub or you might be planning to plant one this year, but choosing one, two or more of the best viburnum companion plants will really help tie your space together. From red-twig stems to vibrant flowering shrubs, these are five plants I’d consider pairing with viburnums in my yard.

5 of the best viburnum companion plants

If you already know how to grow viburnum, then you won't find it that complicated to grow other shrubs and perennials alongside them.

When choosing viburnum companion plants, the trick is to select species that work for the climate in your region and US hardiness zone.

And, if you have a species that thrives in shade, be sure to grow shade-loving companion plants underneath. Likewise for sunny yards.

Here are five of the best perennials and shrubs to grow alongside your viburnums this year.

1. Weigela

If you want a strong colour contrast to offset viburnum’s deep green leaves, weigela is a solid pick.

'Weigela are some of the best flowering shrubs,' says Tamara Hogan, plant expert and lead horticulturist at Fast Growing Trees.

'If you want a unique option, I recommend this 'Spilled Wine' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees,' says Tamara.

'With burgundy foliage and fuchsia flowers in spring and summer, this variety provides an excellent contrast to the green viburnums.'

In terms of how to grow weigela, most are hardy down to zone 4, and do best in full sun to part shade, depending on where you live.

'If you reside in a warm location, I would recommend giving them some protection in the afternoon since dark foliage can sometimes go crispy,' Tamara adds. 'They are also tolerant of a range of soils.'

2. Red Twig Dogwood

'Red twig dogwood, or Cornus sericea, is one of our best native dogwoods found growing in wooded areas across North America,' Tamara continues.

Live red twig dogwood plants can be ordered now via Fast Growing Trees.

'They are hardy from zone 2 to zone 8, with a preference for full sun to part shade. This is also a great plant for wetter locations to help take up some extra water.

'This plant is a great late-season combination with the viburnum family,' Tamara adds.

'Viburnums tend to have some pretty great fall color, with the American varieties often being used as substitutes for burning bushes.

'And, I think to go from that bright red foliage to the bright red stems of the dogwood is just a wonderful show of color.'

As Tamara says, this is a plant with long-term value. Adding structure, wildlife appeal and seasonal color.

Just be sure to prune red twig dogwood at the right time, usually around late winter, to allow you to enjoy the red stems for the maximum amount of time.

3. Barberry

'Another option with burgundy foliage to contrast against your viburnum is Japanese barberry,' Tamara says.

'I love the 'Rose Glow' variety, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, which is a variegated option with white and pink leaves.

'Hardy down to zone 4, these are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive in sunny yards,' Tamara says.

'They also keep their leaves throughout the year, adding interest when the viburnum has defoliated.

'However, barberries can have a state restriction on them, as these fast-growing shrubs can be invasive plants in certain regions.

'So, it is always best to seek guidance from your local government office before adding them to your plot.'

4. Thuja

'When growing deciduous viburnums, I like to pair them with evergreens, in either different colors or different textures to elevate my borders,' Tamara says.

'One of my go-to plants is the 'Fire Chief' thuja, or arborvitae, which is a multi-colored conifer that has bright orange tips throughout the growing season.'

Live 'Fire Chief' plants are available to order from Fast Growing Trees.

In general, thuja is one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs to grow in borders, and is hardy down to zone 5, tolerating cold winters without any worry.

In fact, it is often considered one of the best evergreen shrubs that thrives on neglect, as it is so low-maintenance.

'They do great in full sun,' Tamara says, 'and can handle a variety of soil conditions.'

Just be sure to provide a deep watering in the first year, to help your plant settle into your yard.

5. Juniper

Another good option if you are looking for viburnum companion plants is creeping juniper, or Juniperus horizontalis.

Live juniper plants can be ordered online via Fast Growing Trees.

This native plant is one of the easiest ground cover plants that is found growing across North America.

It is low-growing, often reaching no more than two feet tall, so it is a good option if you want to create a green carpet effect around your larger viburnum shrubs.

Creeping juniper can grow down to zone 4, and is a versatile plant, typically thriving in most locations, growing well in full sun and poor soils.

FAQs

What shade-tolerant perennial works well alongside viburnums?

If your viburnum grows in a dark corner of the yard, it is a good idea to use full-shade perennials. Try growing bunchberry dogwood or foamflowers, both of which are native to North America and thrive in darker situations. Dozens of hosta varieties would also help to illuminate shady spots, such as this 'Blue Angel' hosta, available from Fast Growing Trees.

Whatever viburnum companion plants you opt to grow, it is best to add them to your yard during spring or fall, when the temperature is mild and the soil is slightly damp.

After planting, be sure to water thoroughly and give your borders a good mulching to help retain moisture and prevent weed growth for the year ahead.

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As a gardener, I am always learning from trial and error. I have planted many things over my career that I was once genuinely excited about, only to learn more as they grew, finding myself staring at them five years later, pondering why I did so.

Shrubs, in particular, can be problematic. You grow them for height and structure in the borders, and suddenly, in the blink of an eye, they’re spreading, suckering or throwing up seedlings in your neighbor's yard. Or, on a more aesthetic note, tastes may change. Take Japanese laurel, for instance. I used to admire its gold-flecked foliage. Now it just screams car lot planting to me.

Of course, your experience might be entirely different, and that’s fine. In the right space, some of these shrubs might behave well and look beautiful. But if you’re after one gardener’s honest opinion, or perhaps a gentle moan, here are five plants I will never grow again.

5 shrubs I’ll never grow again

As you learn and grow as a gardener, you might regret past decisions. From invasive trees to invasive bulbs, ugly climbers to perennials with a foul odour, some species that once appealed might become a curse.

The good thing about gardening, however, is that nothing (really) is ever permanent, and you can always take action to remove or replant an area.

Here are five shrubs I'll never grow again, and alternatives I now prefer after a decade working in private and public gardens across Europe.

1. Fatsia

One of the shrubs I’ll never grow again is the paperplant, or Fatsia japonica. Yes, it is an evergreen shrub that is tough and reliable, but I have grown tired of its large, glossy palmate leaves.

Sure, if you enjoy tropical plants or want to include large-leaf specimens in your yard, you might disagree, but for me, this is a shrub that won't be making its way back into my good books.

And, beyond aesthetics, Fatsia japonica can be a little unruly, too. Once established, it can become a little dominating in the backyard landscape, especially in warmer zones. Reaching 15 or so feet, it can seemingly take over borders without regular pruning.

So, while it is not an invasive plant, and it certainly has fans, it is not for me. However, there is one relative of the paperplant that I find far more appealing.

Fatsia polycarpa 'Green Fingers', as seen in the image above, is less glossy than Fatsia japonica, and has far finer leaf 'fingers'.

This species can be grown in pots and borders down to zone 8, ideally in part-shade and with moist soil.

There are also other unique varieties, like this variegated fatsia, live plants available via Walmart, which might appeal more than the standard species.

2. Japanese laurel

There is no denying that Japanese laurel, or Aucuba japonica, is a useful plant. It can thrive in deep, dark shade and in moist, wet soil, where other shrubs may struggle.

However, and much the same as Fatsia japonica above, when I see the foliage, the speckled yellow and green leaves, I am not filled with joy.

Sadly, while it might be one of the best shrubs for shade, I think Japanese laurel has been overused in car parks and other public realm planting schemes, the likes of which you might spot around libraries, train stations, and so on.

It can also dominate, spreading in challenging areas where other shrubs might struggle, and in certain areas, including Virginia, it is reported as an invasive shrub.

So, while this might be a shrub that thrives on neglect, I will not soon be planting it in my yard.

Instead, I would argue that the native buttonbush, or Cephalanthus occidentalis, is a better, and far safer, alternative.

In terms of how to grow buttonbush, this tough and versatile species can be planted down to zone 5, and, much like Japanese laurel, will do just fine in shade and damp soil.

Buttonbush live shrubs can be ordered online via Amazon.

3. Photinia

For many years, Photinia shrubs have been popular, often thought of as low-maintenance hedge plants or statement plants in pots and borders.

I am not a huge fan of their foliage coloration, and I know that I am not alone in this, but I do understand that some people enjoy the pop of red as a contrast to green.

However, I have always found them to be rather temperamental when caring for them in gardens in the UK, suffering from frost damage, or leaf spot or mildew. So, not quite as low-maintenance as they are often considered.

And, while the standard Photinia x fraseri 'Red Robin' is not considered aggressive, some Photinia species are, including P. serratifolia, which is classified as an invasive tree and shrub to avoid in California, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi and Georgia.

Instead, for a low-growing hedge, I recommend oakleaf hydrangeas, which are far easier to grow. This native species, Hydrangea macrophylla, also has remarkable fall foliage, displaying oak-shaped leaves in shades of green and burgundy.

Live oakleaf hydrangeas can be ordered via Amazon, and can be planted in part-sun-part-shade down to zone 5.

4. Barberry

Japanese barberry, Berberis thunbergii, as well as some other species of barberry, are considered invasive plants to avoid growing, including in Maine, Wisconsin and Missouri.

While they might be fast-growing shrubs, in my opinion, they should always they should be kept out of backyards, particularly for this reason.

Indeed, they are overly vigorous outside of their native range, and this is to say nothing of the rather nasty spines along the stems.

Anyone who has pruned barberry will probably have the scars to prove it. This is not a job for the faint-hearted. And if you do need to do this task soon, my advice would be to invest in a good-quality pair of thornproof gardening gloves, available from Walmart.

If you need any more convincing, trying to remove leaves from the crown during fall and winter is also nigh-on impossible.

I once cared for a large swathe of barberry in central London, in a public park, and the London plane tree (Platanus × hispanica) foliage that would drop from above would gather in the crowns and look unsightly for many months. And, lacking thornproof sleeves, it was not an enjoyable task, I can tell you.

Instead, try learning how to grow ninebark, a thornless native shrub that can be planted down to zone 3 in part-shade, with impressive spring blooms and foliage coloration to rival that of any barberry.

Live ninebark plant can be ordered via Amazon.

5. Burning bush

Burning bush, or Euonymus alatus, can be easily spotted by its fiery red fall foliage.

And, while you might like the look of it during October and November, this shrub, in my opinion, should be avoided at all costs.

Indeed, outside of its native range, it can prove problematic, and today it is classified as an invasive plant in 21 US states, including Massachusetts, Pennsylvania and Delaware.

Once established, it can be very tricky to learn how to control burning bush, and they can quickly self-seed, disrupt local ecosystems and outcompete native shrubs.

Believe me, I have spent many hours using my hori hori knife to remove seedlings in one garden where I worked in Wales, which was not an enjoyable job, believe me.

There are so many native alternatives to burning bush shrubs. For a tough, resilient option, I would opt for the black chokeberry shrub, Aronia melanocarpa.

Hardy down to zone 3, this North American species will provide a vibrant fall display, without any worry of dominating your yard or getting out of hand.

Live chokeberry plants are available from Amazon.

In addition to these five, there are many other shrubs I’ll never grow again that didn't make it to the list above.

For example, a special mention must go to bear's breeches, Acanthus spp., as well as Rhus typhina, otherwise known as the stag's horn sumach, which I once planted in a large London plot, and in the subsequent years, it began suckering far and wide.

For more information, see our guide on shrubs and trees never to plant in a small backyard.

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Evergreens are so often overlooked as the green supporting shrubs that prop up our more glamorous summer stars. And, sure, we all love a bit of floral drama. Ammi, verbascum, phlox and foxgloves will always demand more attention than a dark green yew dome. But in my years as a professional gardener, I’ve come to admire the quiet persistence of evergreens, especially when it comes to weed suppression.

Take prostrate rosemary or creeping juniper, both of which I’ve grown in public and private gardens across London. These evergreens are spreaders, producing a dense covering, and so doing a pretty good job of limiting wind-blown weed seeds from taking root.

So yes, I think these dense evergreens to stop weeds deserve a bit more credit. Are they foolproof? Of course not. A dandelion will always find a way. But that’s fine. This is about balance, not absolutism or perfection. Let the evergreens do the heavy lifting, and you can tinker with the remaining weeds if you so choose. Here are five of the best evergreen plants to stop weeds that I have grown, including tips on shaping and aftercare.

5 best evergreens to stop weeds

Wherever you live and whatever your US hardiness zone, you are bound to find several unwanted or unwelcome plants that always seem to find a way of germinating and growing.

So, if you are wondering how to stop your neighbors' weeds from invading your yard, or you want to take action this year to keep weeds out of flowerbeds, try growing one or more of these dense evergreens to stop weeds.

1. Illicium

If you are looking for native plants to stop weeds, try growing Illicium, a North American species that can help to fill flowerbeds with lush, dense foliage.

Of the native plant options, two really stand out to me. One is Illicium parviflorum 'Forest Green', which has unique pale lemon flowers, and will bloom in part-shade down to zone 7.

Live Illicium 'Forest Green' starter plants are available from Amazon.

The other is Illicium flodidanum, otherwise known as Florida anise. This evergreen shrub has leathery leaves and deep crimson spider-like blooms that can be seen in the image above.

'The maroon blooms as well as the fragrant, anise-scented foliage make Florida anise a valuable native,' says Lilly Anderson-Messec, plant expert and Director of North Florida programs for the Florida Native Plant Society.

Growing best from zone 7 or zone 8 plus, 'Florida Anise prefers dappled shade or partial sun,' Lilly says, 'but will grow fine in full shade, with a looser shape and possibly fewer flowers.'

They can grow to 10 feet or so in height and width, but generally, in backyard settings, they can be managed to maintain a compact, dense appearance that will fill borders and help prevent weeds from growing nearby.

'Unfortunately, the fruit of Florida anise is toxic if ingested,' Lilly adds, 'and cannot be used culinarily, so keep an eye on pets and children playing outside.'

Live Florida anise starter plants can be ordered now via Walmart.

2. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster are a family of woody plants native to various regions in Asia, Europe, and North Africa.

While it will depend on the species, many are incredibly tough and can be grown as low as US hardiness zone 3.

They are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect, with little care needed so long as the soil and lighting requirements are met.

Cotoneaster shrubs tend to do best in full sun to dappled shade, and while they will grow in dry soil, for the best result, grow them in moist beds.

When happy, these are some of the best shrubs with winter berries, helping to add color and impact to borders in the depths of winter.

And, the best part? With a dense spread, this shrub will help to crowd out tricky and challenging borders, thereby reducing opportunities for weed growth.

For a low-growing evergreen option that will prove effective for weed suppression, try this 'Cranberry Cotoneaster' variety, with live plants available from Nature Hills.

3. Yew

'One of the best evergreens to stop weeds is yew,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

For one of the easiest evergreen shrubs, try this spreading yew, available from Perfect Plants, for a weed-suppressing green carpet in your yard.

'If you are landscaping with evergreens this year, then this hard-working, reliable and dense shrub is one to grow,' Alex continues. 'They aren't fussy, and will tolerate both full sun and deep shade.'

Yew, or Taxus, can be grown down to zone 4, and is one of the best plants for topiary, responding well to regular pruning, usually in late summer or early fall to maintain the desired form.

Yew domes are available to order from Walmart.

4. Inkberry

Inkberry holly, or Ilex glabra, is often used as a boxwood alternative, valued for its smooth, waxy evergreen leaves that will form dense canopies in garden beds.

Live inkberry plants can be ordered online via Amazon.

And, not only is this shrub good for providing year-round coverage and limiting weed growth, it is also remarkably resistant to pest attack, and is not typically munched by rabbits or deer.

Inkberry shrubs are also some of the best native ground cover plants to stop weeds, found growing in the wild along the eastern and southeastern United States, from Florida northward to Maine, growing best from zone 5 to zone 10.

In terms of placement, they can tolerate dappled shade as well as full sun. And, when considering maintenance, I would advise trimming lightly once a year in early spring, before new growth develops, which will help to keep the crown dense and limit bare soil and space for any wandering weeds.

For pruning your evergreens, I can highly recommend these Felco F-6 pruners, available to order from Walmart.

I have used Felco brand products on multiple occasions, and these long-lasting, high-performing pruners are well worth the hype.

5. Arborvitae

Arborvitae, otherwise known as thuja, is another one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs that can be used to limit weed growth in backyards.

These dense evergreens can be grown from zone 5 to zone 9, with a preference for full sun to part shade and well-draining soil.

Many varieties, including the infamous 'Green Giant', can grow upwards of 40 or even 50 feet, but choosing a more compact shrub-like variety is probably a better idea for most of us.

For example, this 'Fire Chief' thuja, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, will grow no taller than four feet and displays impressive spring and fall foliage.

And, with a dense habit, it is ideal for filling beds with lush greenery and keeping nettles and docks at bay.

FAQs

Is nandina one of the best evergreens to stop weeds?

Yes, nandina, or heavenly bamboo, can be grown in borders to limit weed growth. However, this vigorous evergreen is considered invasive in Texas and Florida, a result of its vigorous and spreading habit.

So, approach with caution, and consult your local government office to understand whether it is suitable for your region.

For small gardens, try growing a dwarf evergreen nandina variety, like 'Firepower', which will grow no taller than two or three feet.

'Firepower' live plants are available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

Whatever species you opt to grow, be sure to give a good, deep watering following planting, which will help to give them the best start during their first summer.

Following this, once your plants are established, many of these options will become self-sufficient, save for a little watering during dry spells.

For more information and ideas, see our guide on some of the best native perennials to stop weeds.

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Ninebark, so-named for its distinctive peeling bark, is a shrub that often needs regular, light pruning to appear at its best. It can look stylish when unpruned, but there is a risk of it getting oversized, unattractive, or even collapsing if left untouched for too many years.

Ninebark shrubs can reach up to ten feet tall and six feet wide, depending on the variety. They are fast-growing, so regular pruning ensures any ninebark shrub remains healthy and vigorous. As they mature, older specimens can be selectively pruned for the best displays, or you can even rejuvenate neglected ninebark to look good again.

If you grow ninebark and want to learn more about pruning, this guide covers all you need to know. We deep-dive into when and how to prune ninebark shrubs, with expert tips so you can confidently prune and have healthy, thriving plants.

Do you need to prune ninebark?

Multi-stemmed flowering shrubs like ninebark often benefit from regular light pruning, which keeps them attractive and in good health. Ideally, it means trimming annually or at least every other year.

However, how often you prune your ninebark may depend on how you grow it.

Stacey Hirvela, experienced gardener and co-host of Gardening Simplified, claims that a ninebark bush can get ‘little pruning’ and still look great.

‘I prefer them unpruned,’ she admits. ‘Their long branches start to arch over gracefully, but if they are pruned, they look more upright. But people grow ninebark as a trimmed hedge, or simply trim it every year to keep it neater and less wild-feeling.’

Alternatively, Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery adopts the latter approach, saying: ‘I recommend annual maintenance to thin out older branches and improve air circulation.’

When to prune ninebark

Whether you do little or regular trimming, understanding the correct time to prune ninebark ensures your shrubs remain healthy and attractive. It helps you avoid making any shrub pruning mistakes that you’ll live to regret.

The best time to prune ninebark is after it has finished flowering, in late spring or early summer. This allows lots of time for the plant to develop new buds for next year’s display.

Trimming in early spring is possible, but it will result in the removal of flower buds, affecting the display for that season. For example, if you are renovating an older ninebark and don’t mind missing out on a year of flowers, then late winter or early spring is an ideal window to prune.

Don’t leave post-flowering trimming too long, though. Cutting back shrubs from late summer onwards is risky because it encourages a late flush of growth that is likely to get damaged by cold winter temperatures.

How to prune ninebark

‘Ninebark shrubs typically need light to moderate pruning to maintain their shape and encourage healthy growth,’ claims Nikki Bruner. And this can be easily achieved through regular trimming with common pruning tools, such as a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or loppers.

The first step to prune ninebark is to assess the shrub and remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches completely. Also, look for any branches that are crossing and remove them. Crossing branches rub together and create entry points for pests and diseases.

Then, look for overcrowded areas of growth and thin out the weaker shoots. This helps improve air circulation and light penetration into the shrub, which keeps it healthy and avoids diseases such as powdery mildew.

Once spindly growth is removed, focus on the form. Lightly shape the shrub to get the look you want, ensuring to always trim back to a branchlet or set of leaves, and regularly take a step back to assess the appearance.

Stacey Hirvela recommends an extra pruning stage for mature ninebark shrubs. She says: ‘Older specimens (say 5-7+ years) will benefit from their oldest wood being removed every couple of years to ensure that all the growth is vigorous and productive.’

To do so, cut back up to a third of the oldest wood to ground level. This stimulates new, more vigorous growth that will flower better in the years to come.

Ninebark can tolerate harder pruning, but observe the one-third pruning rule and don’t get carried away when doing selective rather than rejuvenate pruning.

Can you hard prune ninebark?

‘Yes, ninebark shrubs can tolerate hard pruning,’ says Nikki Bruner from Perfect Plants Nursery. ‘It's common to do this to rejuvenate the plant and restore overgrowth or leggy growth.’

If you wish to rejuvenate an older shrub and hard prune ninebark, it is best to trim in late winter or early spring. To do so, use a pair of loppers and cut back all the stems to 4-6 inches from the base.

This pruning technique sacrifices a year of blooms, but will stimulate new growth and reward you with a smaller, nicer-looking shrub.

However, it is not recommended to do this with all spring-flowering shrubs. For example, witch hazel is a shrub to never hard prune, as it can get extremely stressed and die from being cut back to ground level.

Always do research and check whether hard pruning is a pruning mistake or not for any particular shrubs.

FAQs

Can I prune ninebark in the fall?

No, it is not advisable to prune ninebark in the fall. The new growth that appears post-pruning is vulnerable to frost damage in winter and can leave the shrub more susceptible to pests and diseases. The ideal time to prune ninebark is in late spring or early summer after flowering, though you can trim in early spring too.

Ninebark is among the best shrubs or trees with attractive bark, and such plants make intriguing additions to any garden. If you are after other statement plants that will impress with distinctive bark, this guide to trees with unusual bark offers 10 great options to consider.

Japanese maples are, to me, some of the finest (and easiest) trees to grow in backyards. But while they are low-maintenance, during long, hot summers, they can struggle. For this reason, mulching Japanese maples is a quick but crucial task to complete before the mercury begins to spike.

I’ve nurtured Japanese maples in many gardens where I have worked as a professional gardener, and whether grown in pots or sprawling borders, mulching during late spring and early summer can pay dividends. Believe me, a chunky, two-to-four-inch layer applied in June can really make the difference between lush, green leaves or a brown, crispy canopy.

So, if you want your Japanese maple trees to look their best this year, even when the searing sun is at its most cruel in July and August, mulching is essential. Here, I share everything I know after a decade working in public and private gardens.

Caring for Japanese maple trees in summer

Let's face it, as a season, summer can be hard work for plants. Reports of scorching heat and extended drought are not what we gardeners like to see when we check the weather.

Woodland plants in particular, including all varieties of Japanese maples, can struggle during June, July, August and September, the months when shade is a luxury and moisture hard to come by.

For this reason, I highly recommend a small spot of mulching, which can really help these statement shrubs and trees to survive challenging seasonal shifts in every US hardiness zone.

Mulching Japanese maples

Mulching Japanese maples need not be complicated, but, in my experience, adding this simple task to your summer gardening checklist will really help your plants make it through tricky summer weather.

To get started, take some time to do a spot of weeding. This applies whether you are growing Japanese maples in pots or borders.

There is no need to poke or hack at the root ball... just a quick speed-weed will do, gently teasing any dandelions or clover clumps that might be growing around the base.

Then, deep watering will go a long way to ensuring success. Use a hose on a slow setting for larger trees, or a full watering can or two for pot-grown specimens.

Watering at this stage is important, and ensuring the ground is moist before you mulch will help to seal moisture in the soil once your thick layer is applied.

Following this, you can get mulching. There are not really any rules to follow here, really, just shovel your mulch from the wheelbarrow, rake it out evenly to form a two-to-four-inch layer, and keep a small gap from the base of the trunk.

In terms of what to use, there are many different types of mulch to choose from, and any leaf mold or homemade compost will get the job done.

If you are in the market to buy mulch, I would also suggest something like this organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots, sold via Amazon.

Once you have finished mulching, it is a good idea to fertilize Japanese maples, too.

Use something like this organic tree feed from Espoma, available at Amazon, but be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging, and stop feeding before the end of summer.

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Clove trees, or Syzygium aromaticum, are native to hot, wet and sticky rainforest-like environments. While they tend to grow best in these terrains (cast your mind to tropical islands in Indonesia), with a bit of TLC, anyone can grow this fragrant spice tree at home in patio containers. And, if you are anything like me, you will love the aroma of this spice, whether for decoration at Christmas or used as a flavor in cooking.

Of course, some extra care is required when learning how to grow clove trees in pots, largely because this plant of the tropics does require summer humidity and winter protection. However, if you can get the growing conditions just right, this powerhouse plant more than earns its spot on your patio. Not only does it look good, but it will also serve as a natural way to deter mosquitoes, which detest an essential oil that the plant produces.

So, if you are looking to pest-proof your patio this year, but want to keep chemicals out of the yard, consider growing the clove tree, considered one of the best mosquito-repellent plants. Here, I share how to get started with this tropical species and keep blood-sucking pests at bay, without a citronella candle in sight.

Why potted clove trees are a really good idea

Seeking out natural pest control methods is always preferable to using chemicals to combat midges, mosquitoes and flies.

Sure, insects might be annoying, and no one wants to be covered in inflamed, itchy bites (the gardener's curse), but these so-called pests are actually a sign of a healthy ecosystem, and often attract hungry birds.

In fast, mosquito-dense areas will prove to be a draw during the hummingbird migration. The only catch? You would need many hundreds of birds in your yard to make a dent in the mosquito population.

That's why learning how to grow clove trees in pots is a smart idea to deter these biting insects from seating areas during summer, while not harming biodiversity or using harsh sprays.

It is not a foolproof solution, but growing this spice tree might just help to keep bites to a minimum while also making your patio smell heavenly.

How to grow clove trees in pots

Clove trees might be best known as a spice cupboard essential, but they’re also surprisingly good patio plants.

Not only do these evergreen trees have attractive, elongated, waxy leaves, but they are also remarkably fragrant. And, it is this characteristic, a result of the high concentration of eugenol oil in the plant, that helps to repel mosquitoes.

While these are tropical plants, doing best in US hardiness zone 9 and zone 10, they can be coaxed to grow in containers in cooler, northern zones too, especially if you have a sheltered patio for the summertime, and a fall and winter protection plan in place.

Once you have sourced a clove tree (seek out a specialized local nursery that deals in tropical species), you are ready to get started.

Plant your statement tree in a medium to large-sized container, something around 15 to 18 inches deep and wide should do the job.

I like the look of this large, lightweight terracotta-effect planter, made by Crescent Garden and sold via Wayfair.

Fill your pot with a good quality, moisture-retentive potting mix, something like this organic potting soil by Whitney Farms, available via Walmart, mixing in some perlite or horticultural grit to improve drainage.

Be sure to firm your tree down, keeping the level of the plastic container the same in your new patio pot, so the tree is not sitting too low or too high.

Position it in a sunny, sheltered spot where it will enjoy plenty of sunshine, although in southern locations, some afternoon shade is no bad thing.

Ongoing care for clove trees in pots

After planting your clove tree, complete a spot of deep watering. Following this, sticking to a regular watering schedule is a good idea; soaking your pots once every week during cool spring weather, or every day when the temperature is high in summer.

Importantly, clove trees thrive in humid environments, so grouping pots together can help to increase humidity for patio plants.

You can also water the floor at the base of your pots, as well as mist the plant very early in the morning or late at night, using something like this plant mister spray bottle from Amazon.

Mulching is also a good idea, both in borders and in pots, which can help to reduce watering and improve the fertility of the soil. This cow manure sold via Amazon will get the job done, or any other homemade compost is a good option.

While the clove tree can grow up to 15 to 30 feet tall and wide, its growth will be much reduced in pots.

Pruning, therefore, won't be necessary for several years, as clove trees are very slow-growing. However, if you need to, you can simply snip any wayward stems during early spring.

When the temperature begins to drop towards the end of summer, it is time to protect your clove tree.

While this will vary from zone to zone, in general, you will want to move your pot indoors or to a greenhouse anytime from October, ensuring that it does not experience any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

There, the clove tree will remain until springtime, when all risk of frost has passed.

FAQs

Can I grow a clove tree indoors year-round?

Yes, you can try growing clove trees as indoor plants. Be sure to place containers in a bright location with plenty of indirect sunlight. You will also want a relatively consistent temperature, ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. And, to increase humidity, opt for a pebble tray for plants, while also grouping house plants together.

You will want to repot your clove tree every three years, carefully lifting it out of its container in spring and moving it to a slightly bigger pot with new soil.

While this can be tricky (and might require a second pair of hands for larger specimens), it will undoubtedly help to keep plants in good health.

For more pest-control inspiration, see our guide on using marigolds in a vegetable garden, which can help to lure aphids and hungry insects away from your prized blooms.

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I saw a lot of things during my years as a professional gardener, and thankfully, the vast majority of the time it was a thoroughly enjoyable career. It is a glorious profession to have, but sometimes it can be a test of patience if you have to deal with dubious planting choices.

As I worked in both large, historic public gardens in the UK and private walled kitchen gardens, I tended to a vast array of plants, both ornamental and edible. This included dealing with invasive plants, thuggish species, and those that are difficult to remove once established.

Those experiences taught me valuable lessons about picking the right plants and also knowing which ones to avoid. I have picked five plants I’d never plant again, given what I know, and explain why adding them to your flower beds or vegetable gardens would be a mistake. I do wonder if any of the ones I battled are still in those gardens to this day?

5 plants I’d never grow again

Unfortunately, there are problematic plants of every type, from invasive climbers to invasive bulbs and much more in between.

Many potentially troublesome plants are also commonly available in garden centers, nurseries, and online. So it can be easy to unwittingly make life difficult, as these plants can grow vigorously and potentially get out of control.

Here are five plants I'd never grow again, and would advise against planting, along with some better options to consider.

1. Japanese anemone

Japanese anemones are popular fall-flowering perennials to add late-season interest to flower beds with their pink and white blooms.

While they are beguiling, they have an aggressive spreading habit when established. The plants spread through underground rhizomes and can become invasive perennials that outgrow their space and dominate other plants.

It is a double-whammy attack from Japanese anemones, too. On top of their spreading rhizomes, the plants also self-seed to produce new plants and expand their presence.

Japanese anemones thrive in full sun and rich soil. When their ideal requirements are met, they grow prolifically and can quickly get out of control. Clumps need to be regularly lifted and divided to control the spread.

And, as Japanese anemones can regrow from any pieces of root left in the soil, they can be hard to remove once established.

A native alternative to the Japanese anemones may be the New England Aster, which produces masses of late-season flowers and can be grown in US hardiness zones 3-8. You can get live plants like this ‘Purple Dome’ New England Aster at Nature Hills.

2. Chinese lantern

Chinese lantern plants (Physalis alkekengi) are perennials that produce white flowers in summer, but are known and named after the distinctive papery coverings that the blooms develop into to surround the orange-red berries in the fall.

They are unique, attractive plants for any flower bed, and the heads are spectacular as dried flowers. However, the plants spread quickly through underground rhizomes, and sadly, they are ground covers I'll never plant again.

The clumps can extend and dominate an area, and new plants can pop up far away from where the original clump started. You want to leave the heads on the plant to enjoy, but this also exacerbates the risk of unwanted extra plants, as Chinese lantern plants can self-seed readily.

Another of the Physalis genus I would also advise against planting is Cape Gooseberry (Physalis peruviana). It can rapidly spread in warmer climates and is a prolific self-seeder, with each plant capable of dispersing hundreds of seeds that will sit viable in the soil for many years.

3. Horseradish

When I was a kitchen gardener growing vegetables for a restaurant, horseradish was one crop cultivated in the walled kitchen garden. I saw first-hand how vigorous it was, plus how difficult it is to get rid of if you want to.

There were many clumps planted around the garden. I decided most of it was unnecessary and wanted it removed. However, no matter how often I dug and thought I’d seen the last of it, there it was popping back up again.

Here’s why. Horseradish is a vigorous grower; it produces deep and spreading roots (which can reach 10 feet tall if the clump is left undisturbed for several years), and it can regrow from any section of root left in the ground, even the tiniest pieces. It makes horseradish a nightmare to get rid of once established in the soil.

If you harvest horseradish regularly, you can keep on top of the spreading. But we weren’t harvesting anywhere near enough to make a dent in the clumps. If you do want to grow horseradish, it is safer to cultivate it in containers.

4. Cherry laurel

Cherry laurel is a tough, fast-growing shrub that can grow up to three feet per year. It is popular among many gardeners for a privacy hedge or screen; however, it can become a real thug unless regularly managed.

Such management includes regularly pruning laurel to keep it contained and stop the shrub from forming dense clumps that deprive other plants of light, space, and nutrients.

I would never plant cherry laurel, as I have spent long periods during my gardening career pruning laurel shrubs. There were multiple large sections of laurel in one historic garden I worked in, and we spent several months each year painstakingly trimming them by hand with pruning shears.

As well as being an invasive hedge plant to avoid, cherry laurel also produces lots of berries, and these are toxic to pets. As a dog owner, I avoid planting any plants that are poisonous to dogs and opt for dog-friendly plants instead.

Instead of cherry laurel, Thuja plicata, also known as Western Red Cedar, can provide evergreen screening while being safe for pets. You can get live Thuja plicata plants at Walmart.

Mint

This isn’t a scenario in which I planted mint, but a reminisce of inheriting a garden where someone had planted mint into borders, and the fun that ensued trying to eliminate it. If you are aware of mint’s reputation, you can already guess where this is going.

There were several sections of mint growing in borders around a walled garden planted by a predecessor. These various clumps had spread over time and started to overpower the plants around them. While the smell and number of pollinators the mint brought in were impressive, the clumps were nothing but trouble and needed to go.

What proceeded was a lot of digging and sifting through the soil. It was exhausting attempting to remove the clumps and painstakingly dig out every last piece of roots to stop the plant from reappearing.

You always hear gardeners tell you that mint is an invasive plant that spreads rapidly, and you should listen to them. Don’t think it’ll be fine, even in a small corner, as mint can spread by long-reaching runners to take over new areas.

If you do want to grow mint, plant it in a pot. Whether you keep that container in a dedicated herb garden or plant the pot into the soil to keep the mint contained, it stops the herb from spreading and popping up in places you don’t want it.

There are many other shrubs to avoid, but a special mention to bamboo, as you can’t mention plants you should never plant without discussing bamboo. I’ve never planted it and never really had to deal with it in a garden, but I know the dangers are real.

If you want to grow bamboo, plant it in large containers or create barriers to stop bamboo from spreading. These precautions are vital because, unfortunately, bamboo vigorously spreads, taking over areas and popping up in unwanted places. And it can be difficult to get rid of, so take heed.

Essential gardening kit

Love it or loathe it, pruning is usually a prerequisite for plants to ensure they remain neat, healthy, and put on the best display year after year. If you sit firmly on the loath-it side, or just fancy something more low-maintenance, some plants that don’t need pruning will continue to put on a great show with little work.

We want to showcase some of these reliable, fuss-free plants here. If you are new to gardening or an anxious gardener, you don’t need to worry about pruning them at the wrong time of year or not pruning them correctly, as these plants need little or no pruning at all.

Even if you are an experienced hand at pruning, adding such low-maintenance shrubs or perennials means you can relax knowing these plants don’t need pruning but will dependably flower and impress without needing lots of rigorous trimming.

Plants that don’t need pruning – is it too good to be true?

When we say plants that don’t need pruning, what exactly does that mean? It means the plants don’t need regular annual trimming to look good and put on a great display. They can be left for potentially years without needing any attention and will still perform.

There may be times when they do need pruning, for example, to remove dead, damaged, or diseased parts to keep it healthy or if it starts to outgrow its space. However, these are rare trimming tasks rather than an essential part of regular upkeep.

With all that in mind, I used my years as a professional gardener in large, historic public gardens and spoke to some experienced gardeners to put together this list of five plants that don’t need pruning.

1. Spirea

Spiraea, or spirea, are known across the board as low-maintenance fragrant shrubs. There are spirea varieties that can grow as low as US hardiness zone 3 and provide long seasons of interest, with stunning foliage and long-lasting, beautiful blooms.

If you are after a spirea that needs little to no pruning, Amy Martin, landscape designer and the founder of Plant and Bloom Design Studio, recommends the Double Play Doozie Spirea.

‘If you want nonstop color with no fuss, Double Play Doozie Spirea is your shrub. It keeps its neat, mounded shape without a single snip of the shears and puts on a vibrant flower show from early summer right up until frost,’ says Amy.

‘Since it’s a seedless and non-invasive variety, you don’t have to worry about unwanted spreading, and there's absolutely no deadheading needed to keep the blooms coming.’

This long-blooming shrub reaches only 2-3 feet tall and wide, and is suitable for flower borders or island beds. If you are after a dependable shrub that thrives on neglect and will perform without a lot of attention, this fits the bill.

Double Play Doozie Spirea live shrubs are available at Amazon

2. American arborvitae

Thuja, or American arborvitae, is an easy-to-grow, dwarf conifer shrub that reaches up to two feet tall and wide and can be grown in borders, even in small gardens, or in container gardens.

If you are after a low-maintenance dwarf evergreen to add to your yard, Amy Martin hails Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae as one of her particular favorites. She says: ‘This little golden globe is one of my go-to evergreens for small spaces and evergreen structure.

‘Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae maintains a perfect rounded shape all on its own- no clipping or shaping required – which makes it a dream for low-maintenance gardeners. The soft, golden foliage brings cheerful year-round color to the front of the house and borders.

‘As a North American native plant, it’s an easy favorite for low-maintenance landscapes.’

Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae is cold hardy down to US hardiness zone 3 and will thrive best in full sun, although it can tolerate partial shade. However, arborvitae risk becoming leggy in shadier locations, particularly if they receive less than four hours of sun per day.

Anna’s Magic Ball Arborvitae live shrubs are available at Amazon

3. Yucca

Hardy types of yucca, such as Yucca filamentosa, thrive in lots of sunshine and are drought-tolerant perennials ideal for xeriscaping and dry climates. However, they are also surprisingly frost-hardy plants that can be grown outdoors down to temperatures as low as 10°F.

Kathy Jentz, gardening author and GardenDC Podcast host, hails Yucca filamentosa as a low-maintenance and tough, hard-to-kill plant suitable for US hardiness zones 5-10.

When it comes to pruning, the good news is that yuccas generally don’t need trimming, bar to remove dead or damaged leaves.

‘In early summer, this broadleaf evergreen shrub puts up a tall flower spike that is striking and also a pollinator magnet,’ says Kathy. ‘There is the straight green species as well as several variegated forms available. The most popular of the variegated cultivars is ‘Color Guard’.

‘Yucca need no fertilizing or extra watering. Plus, they are rabbit- and deer-resistant. They are a great choice for along street edges as they are also salt spray- and pollution-resistant.’

If you live in a cooler climate, you can overwinter outdoor yuccas by protecting the roots with a few inches of mulch or covering the plant with a burlap covering.

You can get live Yucca filamentosa plants at Nature Hills

4. Sunjoy Todo Barberry

This dwarf barberry reaches only two feet tall and can retain its shape without regular trimming. If you are after a compact shrub that dazzles with distinctive deep purple-black foliage, the Sunjoy Todo will really stand out against other shrubs and perennials.

Offering year-round interest, it is semi-evergreen in many climates and has gold flowers in spring. And it is a fantastic shrub for fall berries, with its seedless red berries coming to the fore in fall.

Pruning barberry is often required post-flowering, as some species are classed as invasive plants. However, as this is a sterile barberry, it doesn’t even need trimming to control the spread. Seeing as though barberries have notoriously sharp spikes and require thornproof gardening gloves, the less you need to prune, the better.

Plant a Sunjoy Todo barberry in a sunny spot that gets six hours or more of daylight, and it will thrive. As well as a perfect specimen shrub, it can also work as a short hedging plant that is deer-resistant.

You can get Sunjoy Todo Barberry live shrubs at Amazon

5. Cacti and succulents

If you live in an arid climate and want to plan a dry garden, then cactus and succulents are fantastic additions for any drought-tolerant landscaping ideas. They look visually impressive, with stunning form and texture, and can be used in a wide range of designs.

You can get types of succulents and cacti in a range of shapes and sizes, from tall columnar specimens to short mounded groundcover plants, and different varieties come with varying leaf shapes and shades of green, grey, and blue.

When you are landscaping with succulents and cacti, they tend to be low-maintenance plants that don’t need pruning. Many people say you should never prune cactus; however, that is not strictly true.

The plants do not require regular pruning or shaping, but they may need some attention if they are damaged or have grown so large that they have become unstable and risk toppling.

For more low-maintenance plants that can add structure to a garden, there are many evergreen shrubs you can plant that don’t require lots of attention or pruning. For inspiration, this guide to evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect features five plants that offer easy solutions for year-round interest.

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If you are after a versatile, native shrub that offers real interest throughout the seasons and is easy to maintain, then ninebark ticks all the right boxes. It is a tough native shrub that you can plant and then enjoy the spectacular show year after year.

Also known as Physocarpus, ninebark is most famed for its peeling bark, which reveals vibrant layers underneath, but it offers much more than that. Ninebark offers year-round interest, with striking foliage, showy blooms, and decorative seed heads as well as the distinctive bark.

If you want to know how to grow ninebark, the good news is that it is a relatively undemanding shrub. We cover planting and maintaining the spring-flowering shrub and get some tips from experienced horticulturists so you can grow ninebark confidently and have healthy plants putting on eye-catching displays for years to come.

Why grow ninebark?

As well as being a fantastic ornamental addition to any space, ninebark is a low-maintenance shrub suitable for a range of different backyard ideas, from specimen to privacy shrubs in small yards or large landscapes.

The North American native plant offers year-round interest, from the late spring to early summer blooms to dark foliage and fruits in the fall, while the distinctive bark offers texture in a winter garden. Plus, ninebark is great for biodiversity in a wildlife garden.

‘Ninebark is particularly valuable for attracting pollinators, birds, and beneficial insects,’ says Tabar Gifford. ‘Its low maintenance needs and adaptability make it a reliable and ecologically smart choice for a wide range of garden styles.’

There are different varieties of ninebark, ranging from compact three-foot types ideal for smaller gardens to larger shrubs that reach ten feet tall and wide, and come in a variety of colors suitable for any planting scheme.

Where to plant ninebark

Ninebark is a versatile shrub for US hardiness zones 3-7, and it can even thrive in what are sometimes trickier planting positions.

‘It’s highly adaptable to a variety of soil types - from average garden soils to clay soil - and tolerates both moist and well-drained conditions,’ says Tabar. ‘This flexibility makes it a smart option for rain gardens, slopes, or difficult-to-plant areas.’

It may be flexible, but what makes a perfect planting spot to grow ninebark?

Stacey Hirvela, experienced gardener and co-host of Gardening Simplified, claims: ‘Their ideal conditions would be a good sunny spot with at least six hours of strong sunlight each day during the growing season, well-drained soil, and a nice 2-3” layer of shredded bark mulch.’

Ninebark can grow well in part-shade, though any display is more vibrant when the shrub gets six hours of sunlight. At the other end of the scale, gardeners in hotter US hardiness zones will need to provide some shade from the strong afternoon sun.

The best time of year to plant the shrub is in early spring during dormancy. This gives the shrub time to establish roots before temperatures rise for summer. Alternatively, you can plant ninebark in the fall if you have milder winters.

How to grow ninebark - Care tips

• Watering - Ninebark is low-maintenance, and Tabar Gifford admits: ‘Once established, it is drought tolerant and can thrive with minimal intervention.’ However, despite being a drought-tolerant shrub once established, you need to regularly water ninebark after planting. Even in the years ahead, watering plants during hot and dry periods will mean a better display.
• Feeding - Ninebark is not a demanding shrub. When in a rich soil type, it needs little additional fertilizing. Adding organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to the soil annually in spring will provide more than enough nutrients. Alternatively, Stacey Hirvela recommends: ‘Any general-purpose granular (not liquid) fertilizer will do. I recommend a rose fertilizer as your general flowering shrub fertilizer.’ A slow-release and balanced feed with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10 or 5-5-5 makes an ideal feed for ninebark in spring, such as this all-purpose fertilizer at Walmart. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds to fertilize shrubs and don’t feed in fall, as it is a fertilizing mistake that stimulates new growth easily damaged by winter frosts.
• Pruning - Ninebark requires little pruning and, most of the time, a little touch is all that is needed. The ideal time to prune the shrubs is after blooming in late spring to early summer, though this will reduce the amount of fruit on the shrub come fall. If you are growing ninebark as a hedge, it can be trimmed in spring. Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches and lightly trim the shrub for shape using clean and sharp pruning shears.
• Propagation - The best way to propagate ninebark shrubs is from plant cuttings. ‘Softwood cuttings taken in late spring or early summer are often the most successful,’ says Tabar. ‘Choose healthy, non-flowering shoots 4–6 inches long, remove the lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone, and plant in a moist, well-draining medium. Hardwood cuttings can also be taken in late fall or winter from dormant wood and overwintered under protection until roots form.’
• Pests - Ninebark do not suffer too much with pests, though aphids and spider mites can cause issues. These pests can be removed with a strong jet of water, insecticidal soap, or a homemade bug spray of water and dish soap. Companion planting around shrubs with flowers can attract beneficial insects to prey on aphids and spider mites, and plants such as marigolds and nasturtiums can repel pests away from ninebark shrubs when planted nearby.
• Diseases - The most common disease of ninebark is powdery mildew, which causes a white dusting on the plants during summer without doing too much damage. There are resistant cultivars you can plant, while thinning the center of the shrub and removing older stems will boost air circulation to prevent the issue. In a worst-case scenario, a copper fungicide spray (such as this copper fungicide at Amazon) can be used on shrubs. Leaf spot and fireblight can also occur, and any infected branches should be removed.

FAQs

How fast do ninebarks grow?

Ninebarks are fast-growing shrubs that can reach full size within 3-5 years, depending on the size at the time of planting and the growing conditions. It is thought they can grow as much as two feet per year.

Is ninebark invasive?

Ninebark is not classified as an invasive plant. Practically all Physocarpus species are native to North America, except for one (Physocarpus ribesifolia) that is native to northeastern Asia.

Is ninebark evergreen?

Ninebark is not an evergreen shrub; it is deciduous and loses its leaves at the end of each growing season.

Ninebark is a shrub that needs little maintenance to look splendid. Such resilient shrubs can be a blessing for a gardener, as they do their thing year after year without demanding too much attention.

If you want to see more of these easy-going plants, our guide to shrubs that thrive on neglect highlights five fantastic choices for low-maintenance and reliable shrubs to fill your garden with flowers, texture, and structure.

Pittosporum is one of those tough and reliable shrubs I come back to time and again. These evergreen shrubs can be shaped into topiary, clipped into formal hedging, or left to do their own thing in a pot on a shady patio. They really are that versatile.

And, the best part? They can be grown alongside a whole range of suitable pittosporum companion plants, filling borders and pots with brilliant foliage and flowers. So, whether you’re working with the succulent-like Pittosporum tobira, the silver-tinged ‘Tom Thumb’, or any other variety for that matter, they all pair well with a good selection of shrubs and perennials.

So, if you already have one or two pittosporum shrubs in the yard, consider adding a few of the following companion plants that will grow happily alongside your evergreens. Here, one garden expert from Fast Growing Trees provides expert tips to help make the most of your plot this year.

5 of the best pittosporum companion plants

'Pittosporum are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect,' says Tamara Hogan, plant expert and lead horticulturist at Fast Growing Trees.

'They are versatile, tough and dependable,' Tamara adds. 'And they can take on a whole range of sunlight locations, including deep shade.

'There are many different pittosporum companion plants that can be used to great effect... just be sure to pick species that are well-suited to your climate and US hardiness zone.'

Here are five of the best perennials and shrubs to grow alongside your pittosporums.

1. Monkey grass

'If you are looking for evergreen ground cover plants to grow alongside pittosporums, you won't find much better than monkey grass, or Liriope muscari,' says Tamara.

'In terms of how to grow monkey grass, they are hardy from zone 6 to zone 10, with a tolerance for both sun and shade.

'They can be used as a great ground cover to underplant taller pittosporum varieties,' Tamara adds. 'And, with a grassy texture and purple flower spikes, they add a nice contrast to the round evergreen leaves of pittosporum shrubs.'

Live Liriope plants are available from Fast Growing Trees.

'Having ground cover options also helps to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture,' Tamara says, 'which means less garden maintenance for you... And who wouldn't want that?

'So, if you have a challenging section to plant in, adding more flora like monkey grass will actually improve soil health and structure.'

2. Loropetalum

'Loropetalum is an impressive evergreen shrub that works well when planted next to other topiary or pittosporums,' Tamara says.

'While it is notable for its compact habit and evergreen foliage, it is the spring flowers that really sing and help to illuminate dark and shady borders.

'Take this 'Cerise Charm' loropetalum, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, which has vibrant hot pink flowers to contrast against the greens of pittosporum.

'These spring-flowering shrubs grow no bigger than three feet tall and three feet wide,' Tamara adds, 'and do well from zone 7 to zone 10, provided they are in a part-sun-part-shade spot.'

They are fairly low-maintenance once established, although it will help to water during the first year as they settle into your plot.

3. Indian Hawthorn

'All of the reasons to love a pittosporum are the reasons to love Indian hawthorn,' Tamara continues.

Compact and ornamental, Indian hawthorn, or Rhaphiolepis indica, has a similar growing habit and pairs effortlessly with other dwarf evergreens in foundation and structural plantings.

'They are hardy down to zone 7,' Tamara adds, 'with a preference for full sun to part shade.

'In my experience, they are remarkably heat and drought-tolerant, and look amazing even during the height of summer when temperatures soar.'

For a striking white-flowering evergreen variety, try this 'Snow White' Indian hawthorn, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees.

4. Carex

Landscaping with ornamental grasses can be helpful when you want to fill large borders surrounding evergreen shrubs.

One variety that I have used before is 'Evergold', with live grass plants available from Fast Growing Trees.

This low-growing option not only provides movement and texture, but it also has variegated blades for added color and contrast in borders.

In terms of how to grow ornamental grasses, most Carex options can be planted from zone 5 to zone 10, with a preference for part shade and slightly damp soil, although some varieties can handle very damp or very dry soils more than others.

For another variegated part-shade perennial, try growing this 'Patriot' hosta, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees.

This unique white and green hosta will handle deep and part shade, much like carex varieties, which can look particularly impressive against a green pittosporum backdrop.

5. Clethra

Clethra, or summersweet, is another suitable shrub for shade that can work well as a pittosporum companion plant.

'Vanilla Spice' live clethra plants are available from Fast Growing Trees, which is a good option if you are seeking white flowers to add pops of color to your borders.

These native plants exhibit remarkable hardiness, and most can be grown down to zone 3, making this an ideal option for cooler, northern climates.

Clethra are pretty versatile shrubs, and can be planted in most lighting situations, so long as soil moisture is maintained.

They are also deer-resistant plants, so if you often struggle to ward off hungry and wandering pests, this tough species might be a good idea.

FAQs

What is a good native ground cover to plant alongside pittosporum?

Learning how to grow creeping juniper is a good idea in darker yards, and there are many attractive varieties to try.

For example, this 'Blue Pacific' juniper, live plants are available from Fast Growing Trees, is a good option for part shade, particularly if you like the look of silver-green foliage.

Most native junipers are hardy down to zone 4 and are pretty low-maintenance once established. Just be sure to give them a good deep watering once a week in the first few months.

Whatever companion plants you opt to grow alongside your prized pittosporum shrubs, be sure to complete a spot of mulching.

I would suggest a good two or three-inch-thick layer of mulch, which will help to suppress weeds, retain moisture and improve soil structure, and give your new plants the best start in your yard.

Try something like this pine straw mulch, available from Fast Growing Trees.

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After years of working as a professional gardener in very different climates, from the warmth of Tuscany to the wet hills of South Wales, I’ve come to really value the plants, shrubs and trees that are tough and reliable. Those species that need little attention, and quietly hold a space together, offering structure, shade, and a real sense of enclosure and protection.

I’ve spent years working with and studying trees, and co-authored The Tree Atlas in 2024, all of which has only deepened my appreciation for the extraordinary range of trees worldwide. But when it comes to small gardens, pots or patios, I think it’s the fuss-free few that truly shine. The easy-going varieties that don’t demand attention but always deliver on impact and aesthetic.

And, after nearly a decade of working in a range of public and private gardens, I have a select few go-to trees that are perfectly suited to time-poor and space-short gardeners. So, if you’re after some of the best low-maintenance trees that can handle a bit of neglect and still look good doing it, this list is for you.

5 small trees that thrive on neglect

While the following five small trees and shrubs that thrive on neglect are low-maintenance, remember that there is no such thing as zero-maintenance plants, particularly for pot-grown specimens that can dry out very quickly in summer.

Your approach to tree care will depend on where you live and your US hardiness zone, although regular watering and feeding for these tough options will usually only be required in the first year or two while they establish.

1. Japanese maples

When it comes to growing Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, these are certainly small trees that thrive on neglect.

They are remarkably hardy, usually able to withstand cold down to zone 5 or even zone 4, and so long as they are planted in a sunny or part-shade situation with moist but well-draining soil, they will grow just fine without much effort.

While there are many different varieties of Japanese maples, from the lime-green 'Going Green' to the coral-veined 'Sango Kaku', it tends to be the maroon and red options that most people obsess over.

For a crimson variety, try the infamous 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery, sold via Walmart.

'Japanese maples are easy to grow, but can often suffer in exposed situations, especially in climates that are too hot and dry,' says Terry Huang, plant expert and Director of Living Collections at South Coast Botanic Garden in the Los Angeles area.

'They make wonderful specimens in containers, especially dwarf varieties, as they are better suited for long-term container culture,' Terry adds.

'For small spaces, I recommend Acer palmatum 'Cupid', which is a low-maintenance dwarf variety and is grown for its stunning coral-red bark,' Terry continues.

'I also love Acer palmatum 'Crimson Queen', a classic weeping variety with feathery, plum foliage that shifts to crimson and red in the fall.'

Live weeping 'Crimson Queen' Japanese maples are available to order from Amazon.

2. Loquat

Loquats are some of the easiest evergreen trees to grow, thriving in sun-soaked yards and dry soil. Live loquat trees are available from Walmart.

In fact, if you reside in zone 8 to zone 10, you will be hard pressed to find an evergreen species that is quite so simple to look after.

In terms of how to grow a loquat tree, these tropical plants love warmth, so planting them in full sun is best.

They are also some of the best drought-tolerant fruit trees, although deep watering is important during the first year while your tree establishes.

While they can grow up to 30 feet in the ground, if planted in pots, their height and width will be limited, as you can see in the image here. You can also prune any wayward stems in early spring to keep your loquat tree compact.

3. Pines

There are over 100 species in the Pinus plant family found growing worldwide. Many hold on to their needles in every season, and are considered impactful evergreen trees for gardens that look just as good in winter as they do in summer.

Many of the best pine trees (some 49 species) are native plants of North America. Some are widespread, such as the eastern white pine, Pinus strobus, while some are incredibly rare, such as the Torrey pine, Pinus torreyana, found in only two locations in California.

One tough evergreen shrub that thrives on neglect is the mugo pine, or Pinus mugo. This dwarf, low-maintenance shrub is hardy down to zone 3, and can handle frozen winters without any worry.

It is also well-suited to smaller yards, as you can see in the container garden image here, with a slow-growth rate that means you very rarely need to prune.

Live Pinus mugo shrubs and trees are available to order from Nature Hills and are perfect for pot displays in small spaces. For the best results, plant in full sun to part shade and water well in the first year.

If you have a damp yard, one easy-to-grow option would be the loblolly pine, or Pinus taeda. This North American species can be grown from zones 6 to 9 and thrives in boggy, waterlogged soil with little maintenance required.

4. Strawberry Tree

Arbutus unedo, or the strawberry tree, is another good evergreen option and is considered one of the best trees to grow in pots.

I have previously grown this species in a pot on a central London balcony, and it performed remarkably well up against freezing winters and scorching summers.

Growing best from US hardiness zone 7 to zone 10, the strawberry tree thrives in sunny and sheltered spots with little attention needed.

They can reach upwards of 25 feet, although in narrow borders or containers, their growth will be restricted, limiting the amount of pruning that is needed.

In pots, I recommend mulching around the tree’s base to help retain soil moisture during summer, although they are generally very drought-tolerant.

When they are growing well, strawberry trees will produce masses of small creamy-white flowers in spring, before red, strawberry-like fruits emerge in fall. Sadly, these are more ornamental than edible.

Live strawberry trees, Arbutus unedo, are available as starter plants from Amazon.

5. Dogwoods

Many native dogwood trees will prove to be low-effort but high-impact in smaller plots.

Take Cornus florida 'Cherokee Chief', for example, which is a great option for compact yards. With abundant blooms in spring followed by dramatic fall foliage, this variety more than earns its spot in any border or pot display.

Live 'Cherokee Chief' dogwood trees are available to order via Amazon.

'For native dogwoods, I recommend the Pacific dogwood, or Cornus nuttallii,' says Dr Ross Bayton, Director at Heronswood Gardens in Washington.

'Growing in a range of climates and landscapes across North America, this easy species does best from zone 7 to zone 9,' Ross adds.

'It will tolerate shade, although the Pacific dogwood will produce more flowers in part-sun.'

While dogwoods are low-maintenance, they do best in fertile, moderately moist soil, so applying a thick two to four-inch layer of mulch each fall is a good idea.

FAQs

Are serviceberry trees good for small gardens?

Yes, serviceberry trees, or Amelanchier spp., are suitable for small gardens. Whether grown in pots or borders, most varieties will grow no bigger than 15 to 25 feet tall, requiring little maintenance save for watering and feeding during the growing season.

In addition, many species are remarkably hardy and are a good option for cold, northerly yards down to zone 4.

Live serviceberry trees are available to order via Nature Hills.

For other fuss-free small trees that thrive on neglect, consider adding one or two other North American native trees.

In addition to dogwood or serviceberry trees, one of my favorites is the eastern redbud, or Cercis canadensis, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery that all thrive in shady spots.

For a compact variety, try Cercis canadensis 'Ace of Hearts', which is a dwarf tree that will grow no bigger than 10 feet.

Our guide on how to grow eastern redbuds has all the information you need, including feeding and pruning tips.

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Some plants simply thrive in summer and ixora is one of them. In most regions, June, July and August can be a challenge for plants, with high heat and drought. And, if we are to preserve resources, there can be no room for fussy, thirsty shrubs that need constant watching. Ixora, however, won't just survive during these months; it will flourish, producing masses of blooms with little care or attention needed.

I have seen ixora growing happily in pots on patios and in backyards, and always with the same result: reliable and impactful color. What I love most is how adaptable it is in a container. You can move it around, give it pride of place when it’s in full bloom, then relocate it to a sheltered corner when temperatures dip in October. It’s ideal for anyone gardening in zones where frost is a threat, or for those who just want that lush, tropical look.

So, whatever the size of your yard, whether you have a tiny or sprawling plot, learning how to grow ixora in pots is a good idea and can actually make maintenance a whole lot easier during the winter months. Here, one tropical plant expert from Florida reveals how best to look after these impressive flowering shrubs.

How to grow ixora in pots

Ixora is one of the best shrubs for containers, especially if you enjoy the look and feel of tropical plants. And, while it might not be your first thought when it comes to container gardening, in my experience, learning how to grow ixora in pots is far more practical than, say, hydrangeas or peonies, which need regular watering.

Growing ixora shrubs in containers

'Ixora shares its botanical lineage with the popular gardenia shrub, and both notably produce glossy, leathery leaves that make them some of the best flowering shrubs for full sun,' says Tatiana Anderson, plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals, based in Florida.

'With this adaptation, they are able to withstand harsh conditions,' Tatiana adds, 'and so are a beloved choice in southern landscapes and pot displays.'

Ixora thrives in warm, tropical climates, growing best in US hardiness zone 9 to zone 10 plus. However, this tropical shrub can be grown in northern regions, and container culture is the perfect solution for moving and winterizing plants.

'The ixora plant family boasts an expansive color palette,' Tatiana adds, 'ranging across various and vibrant shades. Notably, some varieties also offer the added allure of fragrance.'

For a striking coral-red variety, try growing Ixora 'Maui', with live plants available from Nature's Way, supplied via Walmart.

Once you have chosen your plant, select a medium-sized pot, at least 10 to 20 inches wide and deep, depending on the nursery container that it arrived in.

Then, use something like this organic potting soil from Whitney Farms, available at Walmart, to fill your container, combining the potting soil with some perlite, grit or gravel for added drainage.

'They prefer well-drained, moderately acidic soil,' Tatiana adds. 'Caution must be exercised to prevent waterlogged container conditions, as excessive moisture can lead to leaf chlorosis.'

So, taking a small amount of time to combine perite or grit with your soil will really help to keep your pot plant in good condition.

Ongoing care for pot-grown ixora

After planting, deep watering is a good idea to help your ixora establish. While, they are some of the best drought-tolerant shrubs, handling challenging weather with no problem, this will help them to settle into your yard.

Following this, sticking to a regular water schedule is a good idea; soaking your pots once a week in cool weather or every few days in summer will produce the best results.

You can also feed your plants once a month during spring and summer, using something like this organic flower fertilizer from Espoma, available to order via Amazon.

In terms of how to prune ixora, you can trim your plant after flowering, deadheading any spent blooms and cutting back to maintain a neat, dense habit.

Pruning later in the season will also help when it comes to winterizing and moving the pot to a sheltered corner or indoors.

In cooler regions, such as zone 7 or lower, you will want to move your ixora pot to a greenhouse or into your home, usually around September or October. However, for gardeners in zone 8 or 9, you might get away with moving the pot to a sheltered, sunny corner outside.

You will want to repot your ixora every two to three years, lifting the shrub out of its container in spring, moving it to a slightly bigger pot and refreshing the compost.

FAQs

What pest is nibbling my ixora pot plant?

Whiteflies, aphids and spider mites can be attracted to the succulent, glossy ixora foliage during the growing season. Use one or two companion plants, such as marigolds or calendula, which can help to deter these pests with the strong-smelling foliage and flowers. Ixoras are tough plants, however, and will usually tolerate a small amount of nibbling.

Unlike some tropical plants, including lantana, ixora is considered pet-friendly and is non-toxic for dogs and cats, making this a good choice if you have a few inquisitive animals who enjoy playing in the yard and sniffing your pot plants.

For more inspiration, see our guide on how to grow lantana in pots, and fill your patio and pot displays with vibrant color this summer.

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Crepe myrtles are one of those dependable plants that seem to flower for many months in spring and summer. But, once the flower heads start to turn brown, many gardeners ask whether or not they should deadhead crepe myrtle flowers.

Well, it’s not quite a straightforward yes or no. Crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, meaning this year’s growth, but unlike most perennials and annuals, deadheading won’t spark a second flush. However, it can tidy up the overall look of the plant, especially in a small yard or container garden. That said, if your crepe myrtle is tree-sized, reaching upwards of 15 or even 20 feet, it’s probably not worth the effort.

So, the choice is up to you. If you have time and it’s manageable, go ahead. But if you are not able to deadhead crepe myrtle flowers, it is nothing to lose sleep over. Below are a few tips on how to deadhead and prune crepe myrtle in the summer months ahead.

Is it necessary to deadhead crepe myrtle flowers?

Deadheading is one of the most satisfying jobs on the summer gardening checklist. But when it comes to crepe myrtles, the benefits are more cosmetic than necessary.

Still, if the browning flowers are bothering you, or you’re the type who enjoys a spot of gardening maintenance for a few hours a week, here’s what to know about crepe myrtle care.

When and how to deadhead crepe myrtle flowers

In most regions and US hardiness zones, crepe myrtles burst into flower sometime between summer and early fall, depending on the climate and the variety you’re growing.

The crepe myrtle flowering period can be long, sometimes six weeks or more, but as the colorful blooms begin to fade and brown, you can trim the plant to keep it tidy.

To deadhead, use a pair of clean, sharp pruners, such as these highly rated Felco pruners, available from Amazon, to snip each spent crepe myrtle flower stem down to just above a pair of healthy leaves.

It is really that simple. I would suggest taking a garden waste sack with you, collecting the pruned clippings that you can then add to the compost heap.

For smaller or patio-grown crepe myrtles, such as this 'Purple Magic' variety, available from Nature Hills, this will be a quick task. Growing no taller than six or seven feet, this dwarf variety can be easily trimmed and tidied in ten minutes.

However, if the job requires a ladder, it can be slightly more time-consuming. For these taller specimens, you could always use a telescopic pruner, available from Walmart, which can help to tidy larger plants.

If there are any faded blooms you cannot reach, do not worry. Most crepe myrtle pruning is completed during fall and winter, when the plant is dormant and not in active growth.

So, do what you can, trim what you must, and any that you cannot reach now can be trimmed later in the year when the temperature begins to drop.

FAQs

Can I add brown flower clusters to my compost heap?

Yes, all pruned crepe myrtle material can be added to your compost heap. I would suggest cutting any clippings into smaller pieces, no bigger than two inches, to help speed up the composting process.

Should I fertilize my crepe myrtle after deadheading?

When it comes to fertilizing crepe myrtles, remember that these are self-sufficient plants that need little or no fertilizer. For large, established shrubs and trees that are growing in the ground, there is no need to feed. However, specimens growing in pots can benefit from a light feed once or twice during spring, which can help to replenish the nutrients and give plants a boost. I would avoid feeding later in summer, to prevent your crepe myrtle from surging into growth too late in the year.

For more crepe myrtle information, see our guide on why is my crepe myrtle not blooming, with advice to help revive any shrubs or trees that only produce a limited number of flowers.

See also our guide on how to deadhead lilac flowers, to keep your other flowering shrubs in tip-top shape this summer.

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Evergreen shrubs are the backbone of any garden. Over several years working as a professional gardener, I have found that evergreen domes, hedges, and bushes are just as important as flamboyant perennials and annuals, not least because they add texture and form to the garden, even in the depths of winter.

Take camellias, fatsias, or juniper, for example. These evergreen shrubs can be relied on to provide year-round interest at the front or back of borders, even during those long and dark December and January weeks. These resilient shrubs deserve a spot in any yard, especially for time-poor gardeners or beginners looking for an easy evergreen option.

So, if you’re looking for one or two of the best evergreen shrubs that are tough, hardy and don't mind being ignored, this list is for you. The following five evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect come highly recommended, and are species that I have put to the test during my time as a professional gardener.

5 evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect

When landscaping with evergreens, or any tree, shrub or perennial for that matter, remember to always select species that are best suited to your climate and US hardiness zone.

You should only plant low-maintenance evergreen shrubs that you know will work for your locality. For example, planting a shrub that is only hardy to zone 8 in Chicago (found in zone 6) will only end in disappointment.

1. Juniper

'Junipers are some of my favorite evergreen ground cover plants to use in the garden,' says Sam Niemann, garden expert and founder of Grown by Design, a boutique landscape design firm based in San Diego.

'There are dozens of species to choose from, including low-growing creeping options to large, stately trees, and all of them are easy to grow,' Sam adds.

For a vibrant, low-growing option, try this 'Sea Green' juniper, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

In terms of how to grow juniper, these fragrant evergreens are typically hardy down to zone 4, with a preference for sunny spots and well-draining soil.

Position these evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect in a space where they are unobstructed, although you won't need to prune very regularly, as most species only tend to produce four to eight inches of growth per year.

'If planted in the right locations, junipers can be quite drought tolerant during summer, although be sure to complete some deep watering in the first year.

'There are many, many varieties of juniper to choose from,' Sam adds. 'One of my favorites is the ‘Blue Point’ juniper,' Sam says. 'This variety will only grow to about 10 or 12 feet tall, but has bluish green foliage that I love.'

'Blue Arrow' live juniper plants are available from Nature Hills.

2. Camellia

If you are looking for one of the best evergreens for small front yards, camellias should be at the top of your plant wish list.

'When growing camellias, these shrubs do best in part shade,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center.

'Avoid planting in full sun as camellias can struggle with too much heat and light, unless, that is, you live in a cooler northern state.

'Other than that, camellias are easy to grow and low-maintenance, with minimal pruning needs. They prefer slightly moist soil, but once established, they won't need any supplemental watering.'

The two most popular options are the Japanese camellia, Camellia japonica, and the fall-flowering Camellia sasanqua, both of which can be grown down to zone 7 or zone 6 in a sheltered yard.

For low-maintenance shrubs that are perfect plants for pollinators, try this 'Silver Waves' camellia, with live plants available from Nature Hills.

This variety has open white flowers with easy access to pollen for bees and butterflies, ideal if you are keen to invite wildlife into your borders in the years to come.

3. American holly

For shrubs with winter berries, you will not find much better than holly. Some of the hardest plants to kill, holly will often be spotted growing in the countryside, in thickets and hedgerows, without any support or attention. It simply looks after itself.

In terms of how to grow holly, one of the toughest, most resilient options is the native American holly, or Ilex opaca, which can be grown as far north as zone 5, and as far south as zone 9, with a preference for full sun to part shade.

I love this 'Nellie Stevens' holly shrub, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

With dense foliage, I think 'Nellie Stevens' is an underrated evergreen that is perfect if you are looking to create a dense, lush privacy hedge in the front or backyard.

I prefer allowing holly to grow in a natural form, so positioning it at the back of your borders or in a wild hedge is a good idea.

If you do need to prune, be sure to wear something like these thorn-proof gardening gloves, available from Amazon, which have longer arms to protect yourself from nasty spikes and thorns.

4. Nandina

One of the easiest evergreen shrubs that I have grown in London is Nandina domestica, or heavenly bamboo. Hardy down to zone 6, this evergreen can be planted in part-shade to full-sun, and once established, is remarkably easy to look after.

It typically grows no taller than four to eight feet, and will often produce multicolored green and red foliage with vibrant berries in fall, ideal for colorful borders and container displays.

However, be warned that it can be vigorous if left alone. In many US states, including Texas and Florida, it is considered an invasive plant, so always consult with your local government office before planting.

For smaller yards, try this dwarf 'Firepower' variety, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

With multicolored foliage and reaching a height no taller than three feet, I do not think you will find a better dwarf evergreen than 'Firepower'.

5. Brachyglottis

In terms of shrubs that thrive on neglect, I can highly recommend Brachyglottis, particularly if you want evergreen plants with silver foliage.

This flowering shrub for full sun does best in warm, southern regions and is hardy down to zone 8.

I grew the yellow-flowering 'Sunshine' variety when working as a gardener in Italy, and its silver foliage was perfect for handling challenging July and August weather.

It is also remarkably drought-tolerant, thriving in rocky, free-draining and poor soils, growing to a height of around five feet tall. Once established, there is no need to water or feed this reliable shrub.

For another easy shrub with silver foliage, try growing artemisia, with live plants available from Amazon, which is another low-maintenance option for sunny and dry yards.

FAQs

Is Fatsia a low-maintenance evergreen?

Yes, Fatsia are relatively low-maintenance evergreen shrubs. They can be grown down to zone 8 and will thrive in shady and damp yards. However, I have always found them to be vigorous plants, sometimes producing three or four feet of growth in a single season. So, while they are easy to grow, they do require regular pruning to manage their spread. Live Japanese fatsia plants, Fatsia japonica, are available to order from Amazon.

Evergreens don't always need to be green. Similar to Brachyglotis, why not learn how to grow Texas sage, a native North American species with silver evergreen leaves and purple flowers?

Texas sage, or Leucophyllum frutescens, can thrive in challenging hot and dry conditions, the likes of which you might find in a desert. Our guide has all the information you need to know.

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Swamp azalea, or Rhododendron viscosum, is a striking native shrub found growing across much of the eastern and southern United States. And, as you might have guessed by the name, it is typically found in damp, wet, and swamp areas, making this an ideal option if you struggle with soggy borders.

As a deciduous shrub, green waxy leaves appear from early spring, before white or pale pink blooms open with a trumpet-like form, typical of other azaleas and rhododendrons. These flowers usually emerge in May or June, and are known to be popular with bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

So, if you are seeking one of the best flowering shrubs that is native to North America, learning how to grow swamp azalea is a good idea. Here, one plant expert from Wisconsin reveals how best to care for this impressive shrub.

How to grow swamp azalea

If you are seeking shrubs that thrive on neglect, you won't find much better than this native plant. Not only is it easy to learn how to grow swamp azalea, but this tough species will also prove to be a hit with pollinators, too.

Given time, swamp azaleas can grow to 12 feet tall and five feet wide, so this is a plant for the back of the border in shady, damp yards.

Growing habits of swamp azalea

'If you have damp or wet soil in your yard, planting swamp azalea is recommended,' says plant expert Katie Sunderlage, who is based in Wisconsin.

However, while they will tolerate wet soil, as Katie says, they should not be planted where the roots will be completely submerged in standing water for many months. Such locations are considered places where never to plant azaleas.

'Used most often for the strongly-scented blooms and beautiful fall foliage, this variety is native to the eastern US in swampy, marshy lands.

'Blooms emerge in early summer and offer a clove-like fragrance. Removing spent flowers can encourage new blooms for a longer-lasting season,' Katie says.

'The foliage is also impressive, and will emerge in dark green that then turns yellow, orange and purple during the fall.

'Swamp azaleas can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9, and will do best in part-sun-part-shade,' Katie says. 'In warmer climates, these are some of the best shrubs for shade.

'In terms of how to grow azaleas, these are low-maintenance and easy options for time-short gardeners. Once they are established, there are only a few rules to follow to keep them happy.'

Swamp azalea live shrubs are available to order from Walmart.

Care guide for swamp azalea

• Soil: 'Swamp azaleas grow well in moist, acidic soil,' Katie says. If you are unsure of your soil pH, use something like this soil testing kit, available from Amazon, to ascertain the value. 'To grow azaleas, you need to have an acidic soil with a pH value below 7.0.'
• Light: For the best results, grow these shrubs in part-shade to full-sun. In warm, southerly regions, provide some afternoon shade to protect your swamp azalea, whereas in cooler, northern areas, such as zone 5, full sun is optimal.
• Watering: Moist soil is preferred for this shrub. In the first year after planting, be sure to complete deep watering regularly to help your azalea as it settles into your yard. 'Mulching the base of the plant can prevent weeds and help retain moisture,' Katie adds.
• Fertilizing: 'Fertilizing is necessary if planted in alkaline-based soil,' Katie says. 'Adding an organic soil acidifier, available from Walmart, will help maintain the overall health of the plant and amend the soil so it is right for your shrub.'
• Pruning: Light pruning can be done after the blooms are finished in June or July. 'Early summer pruning is a good idea,' Katie says, 'which will help maintain the shape of the shrub. Otherwise, the only pruning necessary would be to remove broken or dead branches, and a spot of deadheading.'
• Toxicity: All parts of the swamp azalea plant are poisonous. The flowers, stems and leaves contain toxins and will cause issues if ingested. Keep away from children and keep an eye on dogs and cats.

FAQs

Can you grow swamp azalea in a pot?

While you can grow swamp azaleas in pots, I would not recommend doing so. This large shrub prefers moist soil, which can be a struggle with containers in spring and summer. It is not impossible, but it will require regular pruning and watering from April onwards. Instead, choose dwarf azalea cultivars, such as 'Geisha Orange' or 'Explorer', which are both compact and colorful, and better suited to pots.

Swamp azaleas (like all azaleas) are shallow-rooted plants, so be sure not to plant the shrub too deeply. The rootball should sit at the level of the soil to avoid water pooling around the base of the stem. In addition, you may need to provide some protection from the wind in the first year while the shrub establishes itself.

For more information and to grow your plant collection, see our guide on how to take azalea cuttings, and try your hand at propagation this year.

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Viburnums are one of those shrubs I find myself recommending over and over again, not least because they are adaptable and incredibly easy to grow. But many gardeners wonder whether they need to deadhead viburnum flowers once the blooms start to fade.

In my experience, deadheading viburnum isn’t strictly necessary, especially because they bloom on old wood and aren’t going to throw out extra summer flowers just because of a trim. In addition, if you enjoy berries in fall and winter, you will want to leave the old flower stalks in place.

As someone who’s grown viburnums in all kinds of spaces, from vast guelder roses in huge estate gardens to shrubby cinnamon viburnums in small and shady urban yards, I can tell you there’s no strict rule here. It is simply down to personal preference. Here's everything I know about how to prune viburnums and get the most out of your plants.

Is it necessary to deadhead viburnum flowers?

Deadheading is often recommended for perennials and annuals to encourage more flowers, but when it comes to some of the bigger and best flowering shrubs, like viburnums, the approach is a little different.

While you’re not going to get bonus blooms from snipping off old flower heads, it does help keep the garden looking fresh and tidy. However, you will be sacrificing those attractive fall and winter berries, so the choice is really up to you.

Here’s my advice on when and how to deadhead viburnum flowers, based on years of hands-on gardening experience.

When and how to deadhead viburnum flowers

Most viburnums will flower between mid-spring and early summer, but the exact timing will depend on where you live and your US hardiness zone. I’ve tended some varieties that seem to bloom and bloom, while others offer just a much shorter window and are finished by April.

Either way, once you notice the petals starting to brown and fade, you can either leave them and enjoy the seasonal shift and berries later in the year, or you can snip.

Much the same as learning how to grow viburnum, deadheading these shrubs is wonderfully simple.

Simply grab a clean, sharp pair of pruning shears or secateurs (I’m a fan of Felco pruners, like these from Amazon), and cut just below the spent flower cluster, right above a pair of healthy leaves.

For smaller or younger shrubs, this can be done in no time. But if you’ve got a mature viburnum, one that’s grown tall and wide, you might not be able to reach them all. Do not fret, however. Remember that it’s perfectly fine to leave the old flowers; the shrub will manage without your intervention.

What's more, you do not have to worry about self-seeding either. Most viburnum shrubs are actually self-incompatible, which means they cannot produce seed unless there is cross-pollination with another viburnum.

There are very few exceptions to this, although one common species is Viburnum opulus, otherwise known as the guelder rose or the snowball bush, which is self-pollinating and can readily produce seed without another specimen.

If those tricky, hard-to-reach blooms at the top of your plant are annoying you, consider using a telescopic pruner, like these Fiskars pole pruners, available from Amazon.

Remember, however, that deadheading viburnums is more about aesthetics than enjoying more flowers or boosting the plant’s health. So, snip if you enjoy it or for the aesthetics, but skip this job if you want to see berries or you’re short on time.

FAQs

Should I fertilize viburnum in spring after deadheading?

In my experience, it is not necessary to feed viburnums. I find they are undemanding shrubs, and can access what they need from the soil. I would suggest annually mulching your borders to improve soil structure, keep weeds at bay and replenish nutrients. So, spare yourself a garden task, and put the fertilizer back in the garden shed.

If you decide to deadhead, be sure to compost any clipped material from your viburnum shrubs. I would advise snipping any stems into smaller pieces, no bigger than two inches or so in length, to improve your composting rate, otherwise, it can take a long while for larger pieces to break down.

For more shrub advice, see our guide on how to deadhead lilac flowers, to keep your yard in tip-top shape this year.

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Azaleas are vibrant, blooming shrubs from the rhododendron genus. They put on their wondrous display in spring, showcasing colors that span from purple and pink to fiery oranges and yellows. In the garden, they can be used as landscaping shrubs or grown in pots, and they will last for years with the right care.

Like most plants, location should be a crucial consideration when growing azaleas, as some conditions are better suited to them than others. This means thinking about factors such as sunshine and what type of soil to use – including soil pH – before planting them.

I turned to plant-care experts to find out more about where never to plant azaleas, and they share their thoughts below. If you plan to add these shrubs to your outdoor space any time soon, these tips are definitely worth bearing in mind before you do so.

1. A climate unsuitable for the variety

There are thousands of types of azaleas, and it's important to choose one that's suitable for your climate, including its hardiness zone. As William C. Miller III of The Azalean says, 'All azaleas are not alike in every respect. For example, an azalea that was developed for the landscape in Independence, Louisiana would do very well in the deep South where it would experience the same heat, humidity, and exposure.

That same azalea, however, would not survive the first winter in Milwaukee, Wisconsin when exposed to the truly cold and windy conditions of the North. It would be said to be not cold hardy.

'Similarly, azaleas that were developed in the controlled greenhouse environment specifically for the florist industry typically are unsuited for landscape applications since they are neither heat nor cold hardy,' he continues. 'So, plant selection is the first critical consideration where a mistake at this stage makes all else irrelevant.'

2. Non-acidic soil

Like blueberries, azaleas are ericaceous plants, which means they like an acidic soil pH (it should be in the range of 4.5-6.0, says William). 'If the pH of the medium varies from the preferred range, nutrients in the medium that may be present will not be available and the azalea will appear sickly,' he warns.

It's a good idea to buy a simple soil pH testing kit to check the conditions before you decide where to plant. There are ways to make your soil more acidic if needs be. Alternatively, consider choosing a compact azalea variety (such as 'Hino Crimson' kurume azalea from Nature Hills) and planting it in a large pot, filled with soil specially designed for acid-loving plants.

Top tip: Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro, notes that areas near concrete foundations or sidewalks can be problematic since lime can leach from the concrete, gradually raising the soil pH over time.

3. Poorly-draining soil

Speaking of soil type, be sure the consistency of your soil is suitable, too. 'Azaleas have fine, shallow root systems that require good soil aeration and drainage,' says Amy. She warns that, in heavy clay soils, roots struggle to grow. 'Similarly, in consistently soggy or waterlogged conditions (which clay soils are prone to), azalea roots are susceptible to root rot.'

Again, consider planting azaleas in containers if your backyard's soil is unsuitable. For your borders, you may want to opt for plants that will grow in clay soil, instead. Or, you can try to amend the soil by digging in lots of organic matter.

4. Too much sun, or shade

'Most types of azalea prefer partial or dappled shade and require protection from the harsh afternoon sun,' says Amy. 'Full sun exposure, especially in hot climates, can cause leaf scorch and plant stress, which makes it more vulnerable to pests.'

For this reason, rhododendrons and azaleas are commonly used in woodland planting schemes. Do note that some azalea varieties tolerate sun better than others, though (just be sure to water them properly), so it's always best to check the label.

While a bit of shelter from the sun's rays can be beneficial, planting azaleas in full shade is generally a no-go. As William points out, an azalea may grow in this type of location, but it won't set buds or bloom.

5. Windy locations

Avoid planting your azaleas in very exposed sites. 'Strong, persistent winds can desiccate azalea foliage, causing it to brown and die back,' Amy says. 'This is especially problematic in the winter when the ground is frozen and roots of evergreen azaleas cannot replace the lost moisture.'

Top tip: Our guide on how to overwinter azaleas has lots of practical tips on keeping these shrubs protected when temperatures drop.

FAQs

Can you grow azaleas indoors?

Florist azaleas, commonly sold as flowering houseplants, are the best type of azalea to grow indoors, says Amy. However, getting them to rebloom indoors year after year can be challenging, she adds. 'They require bright, indirect light, cool temperatures (around 60−65 °F to prolong blooming), consistent moisture (the soil should not dry out completely), and high humidity which can be a challenge indoors (especially in the winter). After blooming, they need a period of rest and specific temperature fluctuations to encourage new bud formation.

'A greenhouse can provide more controlled conditions for azalea growth making it easier to mimic their preferred outdoor environment more closely,' she continues. 'This allows for better regulation of temperature, humidity, and light. Greenhouses are especially useful for propagating azaleas or for growing varieties that may not be hardy in your area. However, consistent watering and acidic soil conditions remain crucial.'

What are some good companion plants for azaleas?

Kathy Jentz, a National Garden Bureau member and the editor of The Azalean, says her favorite companion plants for azaleas are native woodland phlox ground covers (Phlox divaricata). These flower prolifically in the spring and are pretty much evergreen throughout the rest of the year, she highlights. 'They are low-maintenance and easy care.

'Another great companion plant for azaleas is our native "Green and Gold" (Chrysogonum virginianum), which is a low-grower that makes a nice solid carpet and has beautiful yellow flowers for pollinators.'

Amy also recommends ferns, such as the Christmas fern and lady fern, as they thrive in shady, moist soil conditions making them perfect neighbors for azaleas. 'Their varied textures and forms provide a great contrast to the more structured appearance of azaleas. Plus, they help fill in around the base of the shrubs, acting like a living mulch to help retain soil moisture,' she adds.

Once you know where to avoid planting azaleas, you can start thinking about their ongoing care. Knowing how to prune azaleas is beneficial for healthy plants, as is knowing how and when to fertilize them. Once your azaleas are thriving, you may also wish to take some cuttings – that way, you can enjoy even more of these beautiful shrubs in your garden, for no extra cost.

A popular myth is that winter is a slow time for a gardener. The list of jobs may be smaller than during other seasons, but there are still enjoyable and rewarding jobs to do. That includes propagation, as winter can be a fantastic time to start getting new plants for your garden by taking cuttings.

You can propagate lots of ornamental and edible shrubs by taking hardwood cuttings in winter. With a little time, planning, and patience, you can get a whole raft of new plants to add to your backyard ideas. Taking cuttings is also enjoyable and budget-friendly, as you get all these new shrubs for free.

With all that in mind, this guide highlights 11 great plants to propagate in winter and includes practical advice for each on taking plant cuttings and getting them to root successfully.

Propagating in winter - 11 plants suitable for cuttings

Taking hardwood cuttings is a great task to add to any winter gardening checklist and the following plants are ideal candidates:

1. Blueberries

If you grow blueberries and want more of these super soft fruit bushes, taking cuttings in winter is a dependable way to expand your collection. If you know when and how to prune blueberries, you can have all the available material you need at hand. The cuttings from pruning can be used as hardwood cuttings to get new blueberries to plant.

Choose healthy stems that are 6-10 inches long and trim the top and bottom, above and below a bud respectively. Place the cutting into a pot filled with well-draining potting mix and keep it somewhere warm and protected, such as a greenhouse or cold frame. The new cuttings should have developed roots by late spring and you can plant blueberries outside in your chosen spot.

2. Box

Boxwood is a versatile and popular evergreen shrub, suitable for topiary, hedging, or specimen shrubs. When landscaping with evergreens, you often need many plants to get the desired effect. Propagating box from cuttings is a simple way to get lots of new plants for group plantings - it requires patience but is certainly more budget-friendly than buying lots of box plants from the garden center.

Semi-ripe cuttings can be taken to propagate boxwood bushes in summer or the alternative is to take semi-hardwood cuttings in winter. Take healthy six-inch stems and strip off the lower half of the foliage, before dipping in rooting hormone and planting into a well-draining potting mix. Keep the container in a greenhouse or cold frame for around three months and pot up the cuttings in spring into a large container to continue growing on.

3. Camellia

The large showy flowers of camellias provide a revitalizing burst of color and drama during colder months, backed up by the evergreen shrub’s always-gorgeous glossy foliage. Camellias can be a welcome sight when there is little color elsewhere. So, naturally, whether you have them in beds or grow camellias in pots, you may want more to brighten up those early days of the year.

Taking camellia cuttings in winter is a great method to do this. In general, cuttings are one of the best ways to propagate camellias, as you are guaranteed an identical plant - whereas growing from seed comes with the risk of getting different flowers. When you try to propagate camellias from cuttings, removing a half-inch strip of bark from the cutting’s base and dipping it in rooting hormone can help improve your chances of success.

4. Dogwood

Dogwoods come in a variety of sizes and colors and are adored for their spectacular fall color. The colored stems impress during the colder months and are often pruned back hard in late winter or early spring, before the new growth emerges, to encourage a flush of new, vibrant stems.

Pruning is a vital part of growing and caring for dogwoods and you can take cuttings of dogwood when you prune in winter to get new plants, for free. Take a 12-16 inch cutting of straight and pencil-thick one-year-old wood and trim it at the top and bottom. Place the cutting directly into a prepared bed or pots with at least two buds under the soil surface from which the cutting will develop new roots.

5. Gooseberries

Sweet and sharp gooseberries can be used in jams, preserves, puddings, or many other recipes and it is really easy to grow gooseberries at home. As with lots of soft fruit bushes, the time to prune gooseberries comes in the plant’s dormancy period in winter or early spring - and it is also an ideal time to root hardwood cuttings of gooseberry bushes. Gooseberries are easy and reliable from hardwood cuttings taken in winter.

Select healthy stems that are one year old and soft at the end but woodier at the base. Take cuttings that are 10-12 inches long. Cut just above a bud at an angle at the top and make a straight cut at the base below a bud. You can dip the cutting in the rooting hormone, but gooseberries will tend to root without.

Put the cuttings into a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix with at least two-thirds under the soil. Keep the cutting well watered and pot it up once it has a strong root network, before planting into the garden come fall.

6. Hydrangea

Hydrangeas are some of the most popular flowering shrubs nowadays, thanks to their large and showy blooms in different shapes, colors, and sizes. Growing hydrangeas can be very simple and enjoyable, they are low-maintenance shrubs that bloom reliably year after year and many hydrangea varieties are great plants for bees and other pollinators.

It is more common to propagate hydrangeas from softwood cuttings in the spring, however, you can also take hydrangea cuttings in winter. These winter cuttings will take a bit longer, but you can still enjoy success and get new shrubs to add to your garden.

Choose healthy stems and remove the soft tip to end up with a 6-10 inch cutting trimmed above a bud at the top and below a bud at the bottom. Dip the base in rooting hormone and place it in a pot filled with potting mix - you can plant it directly in the ground but it may take longer to root.

7. Mulberries

Mulberries are historic, low-maintenance fruit trees. Grow a mulberry tree and you will get delicious, large, and juicy fruits that are not normally available in grocery stores but are ideal for jams and jellies.

They can be propagated by softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer, or by hardwood cuttings in winter. Take mulberry tree cuttings in January or February of healthy one-year-old shoots that should be soft at the tip and woodier at the base. Cut into 6-12 inch sections and dip in rooting hormone.

The cuttings can be inserted into a trench outdoors, or pots filled with well-draining potting mix and placed into a cold frame or unheated greenhouse until next fall.

8. Roses

Taking rose cuttings is a simple way to get more of your favorite rose to plant, for free. Taking hardwood cuttings when the rose is dormant in winter is a reliable propagation method to get more rose shrubs.

Choose material from the previous year’s growth, picking healthy stems around the thickness of a pencil and 12-20 inches long. Make an angled cut above a bud and a straight cut below a bud and plant the rose cutting into a narrow trench with a one-inch layer of sand or grit in the bottom for drainage. Place each cutting at least six inches apart, firm each in the soil, and water well.

9. Spirea

Spirea are popular deciduous shrubs as they can be covered with small clusters of blooms in spring and summer - with blooms coming in shades of white, pink, and purple.

Also known as meadowsweet, they are low maintenance and ideal for propagating from hardwood cuttings in winter during their dormancy. Take cuttings of 10-12 inch healthy stems, place them into pots, and keep them in a warm and protected environment to aid rooting, such as a cold frame or greenhouse. Keep the cuttings well watered, but not waterlogged, and they should start to show signs of new growth come spring.

10. Weigela

The bright trumpet-shaped blooms of weigela are impactful and there are varieties in different vivid colors and with dramatic variegated foliage. They are shrubs that catch the eye and you may want to add to your collection of weigela, which can be done from cuttings in winter.

If you grow a weigela you love, hardwood cuttings allow you to get a free exact clone of that parent plant. As for how to take weigela cuttings, trim woody stems 10-12 inches long and place them into pots filled with well-draining potting mix. Place the cuttings somewhere warm and protected and water them sparingly. The cuttings should show signs of rooting in spring.

11. Wisteria

You can grow wisteria from cuttings at the same time as you prune wisteria in winter. Winter wisteria pruning focuses on trimming back last year’s growth so the plant can focus energy on this spring’s dramatic flowering. Any healthy sections of wisteria that grew last season and are at least 12 inches long can be used to propagate new plants in winter - if you so desire.

Choose a section and snip it above and below a node - with a slanting cut at the top and a flat cut at the bottom. Place the cutting into a pot filled with a well-draining potting mix and put it somewhere warm - with at least two buds below the soil line. Covering the cutting with a clear plastic bag can help with humidity and benefit rooting. Water the cutting regularly to keep the soil consistently moist.

Hopefully, this list of plants to propagate in winter has whetted your appetite to grow more plants this month and next to add to your yard. There are also seeds you may wish to plant in January and the weeks ahead, including a selection of vegetables to plant in January and flowers to sow in February to fill your garden with color and crops in the season ahead.

Dwarf evergreens are perfect for maintaining interest in the garden, even in small spaces. Fortunately, there are many attractive species to choose from, all of which retain their foliage during dark and cold winter months.

As a former professional gardener, I’ve used many different dwarf evergreens in planting schemes, finding them particularly useful in urban plots where space is often at a premium. And, far from just forming the backbone of schemes, many dwarf evergreens are fragrant, have unusual coloring or even produce brilliant blooms, more than earning their spot in any yard.

So, if you’re seeking reliable but compact dwarf evergreens to plant underneath your evergreen shrubs, we have put together a list of five of the best to try this year.

Best dwarf evergreens

If you are landscaping with evergreens in smaller spaces, the good news is that there are hundreds of interesting and attractive dwarf evergreens to choose from that can be grown alongside some of the best dwarf trees. Importantly, remember to select species that are best suited to your US hardiness zone. For example, if you reside in zone 5, planting tender evergreens that are native to southern regions is not a good idea.

1. Creeping Juniper

'Junipers are some of the best fragrant evergreens,' says Sam Niemann, garden expert and founder of Grown by Design, a boutique landscape design firm based in San Diego. 'There are many compact varieties, including creeping juniper, Juniperus horizontalis, or the dwarf juniper, Juniperus procumbens, which both grow somewhere between one to two feet tall.

'I like junipers as they are effective even in colder, northern regions,' Sam says. 'Most can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 plus, making for an ideal evergreen ground cover plant even in states that experience frost and snow in winter.'

In terms of how to grow creeping juniper, plant in a sunny spot and well-draining soil. If you are looking to create cloud-like shapes or juniper mounds, prune in early spring for the best results. I would keep this evergreen alongside a pathway or patio, as the foliage will produce a delicate fragrance when brushed.

Creeping juniper live starter plants are available to order from Amazon.

2. Dwarf bottlebrush

'Growing bottlebrush plants will fill any yard with firework-like blooms,' says Tatiana Anderson, plant expert and co-founder of Top Tropicals. 'In general, there are very few bottlebrush tree problems to be worried about, and these plants are tough and resilient.'

While you might be used to seeing large bottlebrush trees or shrubs in borders, often reaching between 10 and 20 feet tall, there are dwarf varieties, such as Callistemon viminalis 'Little John', which will grow to a height of 3 feet. As with all bottlebrushes, or Callistemon spp., 'these evergreens are best suited to warmer US hardiness zones, so stick to zone 8 and above,' Tatiana adds.

Position in a full sun location, ideally with six to eight hours of sunshine each day, in well-draining soil. 'They can tolerate poor, sandy soils, but beware of waterlogging, which can prove challenging for these plants.'

In a sheltered, sunny spot, the dwarf 'Little John' variety will retain its lance-shaped foliage year-round, making for a striking, if unique, evergreen. Live starter plants of the dwarf 'Little John' variety are available from Amazon.

3. Dwarf mountain pine

Many of the best pine trees have dwarf varieties, including several different mountain pines, such as Pinus mugo 'Humpy' and Pinus mugo 'Mops'. Often considered one of the best evergreens for small front yards, the slow-growing Pinus mugo is a good option for compact spaces, and many designers use this species as a structural and textural foliage plant.

Most mountain pines tend to have a growth rate of 2 to 4 inches per year, meaning that they rarely require pruning. So, with a naturally rounded form that rarely requires attention, they are a great low-maintenance dwarf evergreen option.

Pinus mugo can be grown in both mild and cool regions from US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 7, thriving in full sun and poor soils.

Pinus mugo live plants are available from Walmart.

4. Pittosporum

There are over 250 species of plants in the family Pittosporaceae that come in a range of shapes and sizes. The popular Pittosporum tenuifolium, for example, can eventually reach 26 feet tall. However, there are many dwarf varieties available, including Pittosporum tenuifolium 'Golf Ball', as seen in the image above. Another option is Pittosporum tobira 'Nanum', which grows only to a height of 3 feet and has leathery, succulent-like leaves.

These evergreen shrubs, while adaptable, tend to do better in mild and warmer regions, growing well from zone 8 plus. Plant them in full sun to part shade in a border that has well-draining soil.

Pittosporum shrubs benefit from annual pruning, helping to keep them compact and dense. If left unpruned for many years, they do have a tendency to turn woody, with foliage at the end of long stems. Therefore, regular trimming is crucial, which is best done from spring to late summer, avoiding any temperature extremes.

Pittosporum shrubs are available to buy online at Walmart.

5. Dwarf Hebe

Hebe plants are versatile, evergreens that look particularly impactful towards the front of a garden border. As you can see in the image here, certain hebe varieties have unique foliage shades and flowers, making for an ornamental addition to any space.

There are many dwarf varieties, such as Hebe ‘Emerald Gem’ or ‘Patty’s Purple’, both of which are perfect for small gardens. Hebe plants grow best from zone 7 plus, preferring a sunny spot and well-draining soil.

They can also grow well in pots or window boxes, which is a good option for renters or those with small urban terraces or balconies.

Hebe 'Patty's Purple' is a dwarf variety with lilac blooms, and is available to order from Nature Hills.

FAQs

What dwarf evergreen would you recommend for a container garden?

There are many dwarf evergreens that could be grown in containers. Pinus mugo is one good option that is slow-growing and would not need regular pruning. I grew this species in containers on a balcony when working as a gardener in east London, and found its drought-tolerant needles resilient even during hot summer months.

Whatever dwarf evergreens you grow, remember to water them consistently during the first year as they establish roots. Spring or fall is typically the best time to plant them, at a time when the soil is mild and moist. For more plant inspiration, see our guide to some of the easiest evergreen trees to grow this year, helping you to create a green canopy above your dwarf evergreen species. Or, if you want to boost your curb appeal this year, check out our list of the best low-maintenance evergreen shrubs for the front yard.

Borders underneath large trees can be challenging to cultivate. Whether you have a large oak, poplar or chestnut tree in your yard, often the ground underneath can appear dull and bare, save for a few opportune seedlings or weeds.

However, some shrubs are well-suited to these conditions, preferring the dappled shade of a larger, established tree overhead. In hot summers, this canopy can protect shrubs, shielding them from the harsh rays of the July sun.

If you are looking for some of the best plants for under trees, these five shrubs will grow quite happily in challenging conditions. From the scented daphne to the evergreen Japanese holly, these shrubs for under trees will help you to make the most of your growing space.

Best shrubs for under trees

Most yards typically have one, two or several established trees. Or, maybe you have none, but there is a large established tree in the neighboring plot. Whatever your circumstances, trees can prove challenging for other plants, creating a dry, shaded region underneath their canopy. For this reason, growing shrubs for shade or part-shade that are adaptable and resilient is the best course of action. Here are five shrubs for under trees to fill your borders with greenery.

1. Viburnum

'There are approximately 170 viburnum varieties found growing across much of the Northern Hemisphere, with a wide range of beautiful options for gardeners,' says Alex Kantor, gardening expert and owner at Perfect Plants. 'They thrive in partial shade and prefer well-drained soil. While drought-tolerant, be sure to water consistently during the first year while the shrub settles into your yard.

'Most - if not all - viburnums are woodland plants, growing at the edge of forests and thriving in dappled, partial sunlight,' Alex says. 'They are prized for their beautiful and often fragrant flowers, and can be used as hedges, understory plants or specimen shrubs.'

One native option would be the maple-leafed viburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, which is found growing in woodlands from New Jersey down to North Carolina. This species can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and will tolerate dappled dry shade under the canopy of a large deciduous tree.

Another option would be Viburnum rhytidophyllum, or the leatherleaf viburnum, seen in the image above. This evergreen option has attractive oval leaves and dainty pink blooms in spring. Leatherleaf viburnum seeds are available to order from Amazon.

2. Azaleas

'Azaleas are well-suited for growing under large trees, especially in dappled or partial shade,' says Alex. 'They prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil and benefit from a layer of mulch to retain some moisture during summer.

'Choose the 'Red Ruffles' variety, available from Perfect Plants, for a smaller option with spectacular color,' Alex recommends. Alternatively try growing the yellow azalea, otherwise known as Rhododendron luteum, seen in the image above, which can be grown in shady beds down to US hardiness zone 5.

As a former professional gardener, I previously cared for three yellow azaleas that grew in a shady woodland border, and I can testify that these are some of the best shrubs for under trees in deep shade.

'In terms of how to grow azaleas, water them regularly, especially during dry spells,' says Alex, 'which will help them to establish in the first few years. Annual mulching will also help to feed the plant, and avoid any need for supplemental fertilizer.'

3. Daphne

Daphne is an ideal understory plant, thriving in a part-sun-part-shade position under large trees. They can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus, and in milder regions, will retain their foliage year-round.

'Daphne are spectacular but slow-growing shrubs, typically only growing around two to six inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

The most common form, winter daphne, otherwise known as Daphne odora, is a compact shrub producing attractive pink, star-like fragrant blooms in winter. For an unusual species that is well-suited for dry and deep shade, try Daphne laureola, producing small yellow-green flowers that will illuminate borders in challenging spots under large trees.

'The optimal time to plant daphne bushes is during the fall or early spring,' Mike adds. 'These periods allow the plant to establish its roots before facing extreme temperatures.'

Daphne live plants are available from Walmart.

4. Japanese holly

Japanese holly, or Ilex crenata, is considered one of the easiest evergreen shrubs to grow and can prove useful underneath large trees where conditions are tough. This slow-growing plant is similar to other topiary plants, including yew or box, in that it forms a dense spread of lush, green foliage.

Japanese holly is suitable for cooler regions and can be grown from zone 5 plus. What's more, it is also pest and problem-free, in stark contrast to box topiary. While you can shape them with regular pruning, you can leave them alone under large trees to form a loose, natural green covering. Dark berries will also help to add interest to your fall and winter garden.

Japanese holly live plants are available from Walmart.

5. Sweet box

If you are looking for some of the best fragrant evergreens, sweet box, or Sarcococca confusa, is one plant to consider. Native to Asia and the Himalayas, sweet box is a shade-tolerant understory plant, that can thrive in dry soil and deep shade. What's more, they are also considered some of the best ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion, helping to bind loose, dry soil in sloped sites.

When working as a gardener in London, I cared for several sweet box shrubs that had been planted underneath large deciduous London plane trees, Platanus × hispanica. I rarely paid the sweet box shrubs much attention and they proved to be tough and versatile plants.

In terms of how to grow sweet box, it does best from US hardiness zone 6 plus, positioned in deep shade or part shade. Water well during the first year, and annually apply a thick layer of mulch to help with moisture retention.

Sarcococca live starter plants are available from Walmart.

FAQs

How should I plant shrubs under trees?

Planting around the base of a tree can be a challenge. It is best to keep at least a few feet away from the trunk of the tree, and to dig smaller holes using a trowel or hori hori knife, to avoid disturbing the tree roots in any way. For this reason, it is best to use starter plants that will eventually grow into larger shrubs. While this requires a degree of patience, starting small will produce the best results.

Planting one or more of these shade-tolerant species under large trees will help cover the bare patches of soil in your yard. Always remember, right plant right place, and in this case, using woodland plants in the understory of your garden will help to maximize greenery in challenging borders.

For more garden inspiration, see our guide on the best trees for water absorption, to help reduce waterlogging and wet borders in your yard.

Knowing when and how to prune elderberry ensures the deciduous shrub always looks its best and is smothered in flowers and berries year after year.

The shrubs are very fashionable and simple to grow. Their popularity is down to the different shades of dramatic foliage, their reliable flowering, and the dark fruits they produce in late summer. The berries are often used in cooking or baking and have health and medicinal benefits.

If you grow and care for elderberries in your garden, annual pruning helps to keep them looking good, healthy, and productive, rewarding you with the best display of blooms and harvest of fruits. This guide looks at when and how to prune elderberries, with insightful tips from two garden experts to ensure you trim correctly.

Why it is important to prune elderberry shrubs

Sambucus, also commonly known as elderberry or elder, are deciduous flowering shrubs grown for their frothy heads of flowers, which are followed by edible berries popular for pies, jams, jellies, and more.

The shrubs can reach over 12 feet tall and get overcrowded and unruly if left unpruned. Trimming keeps elderberry at a beautiful and manageable size and opens up the shrub’s center to combat pests and disease.

Furthermore, taking time to prune elderberry keeps the plant as productive as possible. Ryan Harden, owner of The Harden Garden, explains how pruning elderberry keeps shrubs ‘healthy and productive’.

He adds: ‘Over time, elderberries grow old, woody canes that don’t produce as many berries. By removing those, you’re giving space and energy to the younger, more vibrant canes that do the real work.’

The first step to successfully pruning elderberry and avoiding shrub pruning mistakes is to trim at the right time. This helps ensure healthy shrubs and a great display of blooms and berries each year.

When to prune elderberry

Any newly planted elderberry shrubs will require little pruning for the first two to three years after adding them to your backyard ideas. Once established, from the third year onwards, the shrubs will benefit from annual pruning.

The ideal time to prune elderberry is in late winter or early spring when the shrub is dormant and before it actively starts growing again.

Pruning during dormancy minimizes the overall stress on the shrub and offers the added benefit of seeing the whole structure and center of the plant once the leaves have dropped.

Add pruning elderberry to your spring gardening checklist as you should only need to prune elderberry once a year. However, any minor trimming to remove dead or damaged stems can be done through the season once issues are spotted.

It is not advisable to prune elderberry in late summer or fall. Doing so would be a pruning mistake, as it encourages a late flush of new growth. There will not be time for this to harden off and it will be damaged by winter colds, leaving the shrub increasingly susceptible to pests and disease.

How to prune elderberry

Before heading out to prune elderberry shrubs, all garden tools must be clean and sharp. This ensures the tools make clean cuts and don’t hack away and leave jagged cuts that the bush struggles to heal. Sanitizing pruning tools before cutting also prevents diseases from spreading from plant to plant around the yard.

Once your tools are prepared, these are the steps to follow to prune elderberry correctly:

1. Take a close look at the shrub before cutting and start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged canes.
2. Identify older and less-productive canes to remove. ‘Elderberries produce best on one and two-year-old canes, so every year, remove some of the oldest canes to make room for new growth,’ says Valeria Nyman, an experienced horticulturist and chief product officer at Taim.io. Older canes are lighter in color and woodier and those over three years old are best completely removed.
3. Carefully remove those selected older canes completely. ‘The secret is balance,’ adds Ryan Harden. ‘You want a mix of one, two, and three-year-old canes since those are the ones that produce the most berries.’
4. Remember the one-third pruning rule and resist any urge to remove too many canes. Only prune away a third of old canes and any weak or straggly stems. Any crossing stems are also best removed to help airflow through the center of the shrub.
5. Shrubs will benefit from mulching or fertilizing after pruning. ‘Feed the plant after pruning with a good compost or balanced fertilizer to support that growth,’ says Valeria Nyman. ‘If you’re consistent, your elderberry bush will reward you with a steady supply of berries year after year.’

Shop tools to prune elderberry shrubs

FAQs

Can you hard prune elderberry?

You can hard prune elderberry shrubs and cut stems back to within a foot from the ground. Hard pruning can rejuvenate older and wilder bushes or be used as a tactic to control the size of plants. Hard pruning of elderberry needs to be done during dormancy and it will encourage vigorous new growth that will carry vibrant foliage.

Can you prune elderberry in summer?

Elderberry bushes can be pruned after being harvested in summer. However, any berries left on the bush can feed birds during the migration season and through winter in a wildlife garden. Dead or damaged stems can be trimmed in the summer, but it is best practise to hold off annual pruning until the bushes are dormant in late winter or early spring.

If you want to grow more elderberries, they can be propagated by hardwood cuttings taken in late fall or early spring. If you do want to take plant cuttings, viable stems can be trimmed when you prune elderberry in early spring.

Hardwood cuttings are taken from 9-12 inch straight stems around pencil-thick, that should be trimmed above and below a bud, and placed into a pot filled with potting soil.

Most of us are familiar with the taste of cinnamon, whether from eating a spiced apple pie or drinking a festive latte. It's often sold ground up into a powder, but you can buy cinnamon sticks, too. Either way, it's made of the dried bark of cinnamon plants, or Cinnamomum spp. – a group of shrubs and trees hailing from tropical climes.

While these plants tend to be relatively slow-growing, it can be fun to grow them at home and harvest your own supply of the spice. As a bonus, cinnamon plants also produce small flowers, and the leaves are evergreen.

If you're interested in bringing a cinnamon plant into your backyard, there are a few things to bear in mind. Below, plant-care experts share their tips, including advice on pruning, temperature, and how to water the plants.

How to grow cinnamon plants

Cinnamon plants can be grown in containers or planted straight into the ground. Before you shop for one, it's worth considering how easy (or tricky) it will be to provide the optimal conditions. According to Halina Shamshur, a plant expert from Plantum, these plants thrive in areas with heavy rainfall and high humidity. They also need adequate warmth.

Growing habits for cinnamon plants

Cinnamon plants are usually bought from nurseries as small plants, rather than grown from seed. Some varieties can grow to impressive heights under the right conditions. For instance, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, from Fast Growing Trees (also known as 'true cinnamon'), can grow up to 60ft.

Temperature is one of the most important factors to consider when growing cinnamon plants. According to Alex Betz of Plant by Number, they are ideal for hardiness zones 9-11, and cannot tolerate frost or prolonged cold temperatures.

Halina says, if winter temperatures tend to drop below 50ºF in your area, growing your Cinnamomum in an outdoor container is the best option. 'During colder months, you can easily move the pot indoors or into a greenhouse.' Alex recommends bringing them indoors before the first frost, and keeping them somewhere humid, with plenty of indirect sunlight in temperatures of 65-75°F. There are various ways to increase humidity for indoor plants, as our dedicated guide explains.

Even if you live in a warm region, you will need to prepare outdoor plants for any cold snaps that may occur. Applying a thick layer of organic mulch around the base of plants growing in the ground will help insulate the roots, Alex says. 'If frost is expected, cover the plant with a frost cloth, burlap, or a breathable plant cover. Remove the cover during the day to allow the plant to receive sunlight.'

Growing guide for cinnamon plants

Soil: A nutrient-rich, well-draining soil is best. For container growing, Halina recommends adding a layer of drainage material at the bottom, such as expanded clay, and ensuring the pot has drainage holes. 'Check the size when deciding on a container – it needs to be spacious enough to give the root system room to grow,' she adds.

Light: 'They thrive in a partial shade to full sunlight spot,' says Alex. 'In hot climates, planting them where they get morning sun and afternoon shade is best.'

Watering: These plants like regular watering, as Halina points out. For pot-grown cinnamons, she recommends watering once the topsoil dries by an inch – you want to keep the soil constantly slightly moist, but not to the point of sogginess. 'For plants in the open ground, make sure the soil has dried by about two inches before watering,' she adds. 'Consider adding a layer of bark mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture and keep the roots cool.'

Fertilizing: These plants can be fertilized during the growing season to give them a boost. 'Stop fertilizing about six to eight weeks before winter to slow growth and prepare for dormancy,' Alex says.

Pruning: Heavy pruning isn't usually required for these plants. 'For both container and in-ground cinnamon plants, prune lightly before winter to remove any dead or weak branches,' Alex says.

Toxicity: Cinnamon is generally considered non-toxic to humans and pets. However, ingesting large amounts can cause adverse reactions. Breathing in the powdered spice should also be avoided. Also, note that cinnamon essential oil is not pet-safe.

FAQs

How do you harvest a cinnamon plant?

Harvesting cinnamon involves carefully removing the inner bark of the tree, says Alex. He highlights that the plant should be two to three years old, at least three feet tall, and have mature branches before you do this. Harvesting should take place during the rainy season or when the plant is actively growing, he adds. 'Avoid harvesting too much at once to keep the tree healthy.

'Choose branches one to two years old and about one to two inches in diameter,' he says. 'Cut the selected branches close to the main trunk with a clean knife or pruning shears.'

Alex instructs to then gently scrape off the outer rough bark using a knife or peeler, exposing the smooth inner bark. 'Make shallow cuts lengthwise along the branch, then pry the inner bark off in strips.

'Lay the harvested bark strips in a warm, dry, and shaded location with good air circulation for four to seven days until they are fully cured and brittle. They will curl naturally into quills, transforming into the cinnamon sticks we know.

'Store the dried cinnamon sticks in an airtight container in a cool, dark place,' he adds.

Why are the leaves on my cinnamon plant turning yellow?

Yellowing leaves are usually a sign of stress and are often caused by overwatering. Remember to plant these shrubs in well-draining soil, and adjust your watering regime if needed.

If you're interested in growing more spices at home, why not take a look at our guide on harvesting coriander seeds?