January may give the first glimpses of new growth, and with it, provide some much-needed early inspiration to get out into the garden. If you haven’t gotten around to it, one useful job you can do in January is mulching, but it comes with a warning that it must only be done in optimal conditions.

Mulching is a hugely beneficial task to do each year. It is a seasonal job we always did annually in gardens I worked in, and I continue to do it on my plot at home. However, you may look out at your garden this month and wonder whether to mulch or not, so when can you mulch in January?

The simplest rule of thumb is to mulch in January during mild and dry spells when the soil is workable, and to avoid it when the ground is frozen or waterlogged. Even if you haven’t mulched yet, it is not the end of the world if you can’t this month. It is better to wait than harm plants and your soil by doing it in unfavorable conditions in January.

Can You Mulch in January? The Pros and Cons Revealed

Should mulching be on your to-do list of January gardening jobs?

The answer will depend on your US hardiness zone and local weather conditions, and I reveal when and when not to mulch in January.

When You Can Mulch in January

January can be a great time for mulching. Adding a thick layer of mulch this month can smother weeds from germinating, retain moisture in the soil, and boost overall soil health as it breaks down. Provided the soil is workable and the weather is dry, it can be an ideal time to head out into the yard and give plants a beneficial layer of mulch.

You can mulch flower beds or a vegetable garden in fall or spring, but I regularly mulched beds and borders in January in the large public gardens I worked in. It is not uncommon for horticulturists to mulch early in the year, and renowned gardener, author, and TV host Monty Don is among those who choose to mulch in January.

He says on his gardening blog: ‘We do try and mulch all our borders in January because this gives time in the autumn for the borders to die back gracefully and allow birds to eat all seeds and berries, but it is early enough not to suppress the growth of bulbs such as alliums and tulips that start to appear by the end of February.’

Indeed, as well as insulating plants and nourishing the soil, mulching borders in January can also help protect against a false spring.

Plants may start emerging from dormancy, and bulbs may shoot prematurely during warm January and early February spells. Adding a layer of mulch can prevent shoots from appearing and getting damaged when the temperature drops again.

To mulch in January, get rid of weeds from the beds and use organic types of mulch, as these will boost soil nutrients and structure on top of smothering weeds and retaining moisture.

Such types include homemade compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or bark chips, which should be spread in a layer 2-4 inches thick.

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When to Always Avoid Mulching in January

The top mulching mistake to avoid making in January is spreading the material when the ground is frozen or waterlogged.

Mulching frozen ground risks trapping the cold in the soil, which can cause the ground to stay frozen longer.

You want to protect plants from frost in winter, not unnecessarily expose plant roots to extended periods of frozen soil, which can harm the plant's health. Also, you damage the soil structure by walking over frozen ground to spread mulch.

If the ground is frozen, wait for it to thaw before mulching. You can mulch vegetable gardens and borders anytime through to early spring, so waiting is better than keeping the soil frozen longer and potentially delaying the soil’s warming in spring.

You also never want to mulch waterlogged soil, which, like with frozen soil, can be a common January issue for many gardeners. If you mulch sodden soil, all you will do is trap moisture in there for longer.

This will greatly increase the risk of your plants succumbing to root rot, an issue often caused by overwatering, where the roots are deprived of oxygen and decay.

FAQs

Can You Mulch in Cold Weather?

You can mulch during cold periods between fall and early spring, as it is a valuable way to protect plants from frost and stop soil freezing in winter. However, gardeners in cold climates are better off waiting until the ground thaws before mulching, rather than adding mulch to frozen ground during extreme winter conditions.

After Christmas, you may be left with lots of cardboard in January. Don’t just bin it, as you can use cardboard as mulch in the garden. It makes an eco-friendly, free material to cover the soil, preventing weeds from sprouting and stopping nutrients from being lost due to winter snow and rain.

Cardboard will also add some nutrients to the soil and benefit the structure as it breaks down. Just make sure to remove any tape, labels, or staples before laying it down over the soil surface.

January is the perfect month for some garden planning. While the real work begins in spring (once the ground becomes more workable after frost), it's never too early for some preparation.

One of the most important winter gardening checklist tasks to tick off now is testing your soil in January. Soil health is the backbone of successful growing, and using a soil test kit (we recommend this lab-tested one on Amazon) will give you an insight to what's happening beneath surface level in your yard.

Testing your soil in January will show you how nutrient-rich it is, inform you about pH, and can give some insight into soil structure. Here's why you should get out in the yard and test your soil ahead of spring.

Why Test Your Soil in January?

There are many reasons why you should test your soil in January, ahead of a busy growing season.

At the very basis it can help you identify the soil type in your garden. With this knowledge, you can identify the best plants for loamy soil or the best plants for silty soil, for example.

But, this isn't the only thing a soil test informs you of. It also tests the pH of your soil and checks the levels of essential plant nutrients (most notably phosphorous, potassium, magnesium, and calcium).

Some soil tests even inform you about soil structure, i.e. how well it retains water, drainage level, and any signs of compaction.

Soil tests you can purchase online (like this pH soil test kit from Amazon) are unlikely to provide this information, however. You'll need a field test, or a visual evaluation of soil structure, to determine this.

By getting ahead of the growing season by testing your soil in January, you can improve soil quality and boost soil nutrients to get it in good shape for spring growing.

How to Test Your Soil

'Most states offer soil testing at a low cost through their Cooperative Extension program (for example, the Florida soil testing program),' says Jim Lapic, Penn State Master Gardener.

'When getting your soil tested you will want to collect 8-10 samples from different locations within your lawn or garden,' he advises.

'For lawns you will want to collect soil samples that are 4” deep, and for planted areas you want to collect from 6-8” deep,' Jim adds.

Of course, you'll need to collect your soil sample when the ground isn't frozen, so make sure to plan accordingly.

'Keep in mind that you don’t want to mix the soil from different areas on your property. If you have a garden in your backyard, and another out front, don’t mix them together into a single sample,' Jim adds.

You can also purchase rapid pH soil test kits (like this from Walmart) or a more extensive kits where you send a sample to a lab to test pH and nutrient levels (like this soil test kit from Amazon).

A more affordable option that provides instant results is using a 3-in-1 soil moisture, pH, and fertility meter (from Amazon).

How to Improve Your Soil Before Spring

Once you test your soil in January, you can begin plans to amend it as necessary.

'The results of your soil test will often provide recommendations as to how much and what type of fertilizer you need to add to bring your soil closer to its optimum state,' says Jim.

'However, synthetic fertilizers should not be used during the winter when the ground is frozen. Run-off from snow melt can carry away the fertilizer and contaminate your local waterways,' he explains.

Instead, turn to organic methods for this time of year, including homemade compost and mulch.

'Add a layer of compost over your garden beds. Compost will slowly break down over the winter adding essential nutrients, feeding microbes, and improving the texture of your soil,' says Jim.

'Dead leaves, straw, even wood chips, will help prevent soil erosion, keep your garden beds a bit warmer (giving them a bit of a head start in the spring) and will eventually decompose, acting like compost to your beds,' he adds.

This is also a good time to start adjusting the pH of your soil, if needed.

For example, you can make your soil more acidic by adding pine needles or a compost tea. Once the weather warms up and frost has passed, you can also use this pH up and pH down from Amazon.

As for improving garden soil with bad structure, it can be a better option to wait until spring to aerate soil (when the ground is no longer frozen). You can use an aerator tool (from Amazon) to create more air pockets and break up compacted soil, for example.

FAQs

Can You Test Soil in Summer?

Yes, you can test soil in summer for a check-in of any issues. However, late summer and fall, as well as late winter and early spring, are usually better times for amending soil. This is because it allows for changes to settle ahead of the planting and active growth season.

There's a lot more to know about soil than you might realize, including the difference between topsoil and garden soil and knowing what the best soil is for container gardening. Getting soil right is key to growing and sustaining an abundant garden.

Well-managed healthy soil is essential for a productive garden. As we approach the end of a growing season, there are steps you can take to maintain your soil's health and minimize potential pest problems next year.

From adding organic matter to ensure a thriving ecosystem in your soil, to growing cover crops or harnessing the power of natural pests, there are simple fall soil amendments to discover that make a huge benefit to the overall health of your garden.

If you are putting soil health at the top of your fall gardening checklist, here are a few seasonal soil fixes to discover that help prepare your ground for spring and disrupt the lifecycle of unwanted pests.

Fall Soil Amendments to Boost Nutrients and Combat Pests

This season is an ideal time to test your soil and check its nutrient and pH levels after a hard growing season. After the rigours of the season, the soil can be short of resources, and a test will highlight any imbalances that can be fixed with soil amendments before spring.

You can check your soil using a professional soil test kit like this at Amazon, which measures 13 plant-available nutrient levels.

Some of the following fall soil amendments add nutrients to the soil and help reduce pest problems, while others focus solely on ridding the soil of unwanted pests. However, they all do make a difference and are worth adding to a to-do list this fall.

1. Add Compost or Well-Rotted Manure

Healthy soil is full of life, and such a thriving ecosystem supports natural predators in the soil. Keep a healthy soil, and the likes of nematodes, predatory mites, and spiders will prosper, and they can help by eating soil-dwelling pests like aphids, grubs, and fungus gnat larvae.

Fall is an ideal time to add nutrient-rich compost or well-rotted manure to your soil. Such organic material helps boost soil nutrients and maintain a rich ecosystem, which includes fungi, bacteria, earthworms, insects, and more.

You can either incorporate the organic matter into the soil or add a 2-3 inch layer of mulching materials and let it mix into the soil naturally.

It is important only ever to use well-rotted manure. Adding fresh manure can burn plant roots and harm the soil's ecosystem.

This 40-pound bag of blended compost and manure available at Walmart makes an ideal mulch for smaller gardens.

2. Remove Debris to Prevent Overwintering

There are a surprising number of pests that overwinter in plant debris left sitting on the soil. The likes of squash bugs, aphids, spider mites, slugs, snails and beetle larvae can survive the coldest months tucked up in old debris or leaf litter.

This old garden material provides them a warm, protected spot for winter, allows them to breed, and can even provide food to see them through until spring. So don't leave piles of old stems or leaves sitting on the soil throughout winter.

While it may seem like an effort to clear them away, you are doing pests a favor by leaving them in situ for long periods of time. It won't take long to head out with a garden rake or fork to collect all the material into a bucket and remove it from the soil.

If the material looks disease-free, use it to make compost. However, if it appears infested with fungi or pathogens, it is safer to discard it rather than risk spreading disease problems.

3. Gently Till the Soil

Lightly turning the top few inches of soil can help reduce pest populations by disrupting their habitats and leaving them vulnerable to predators and weather.

Just agitating the top 2-4 inches can be enough to expose insect eggs and larvae just under the surface of the soil. It makes them susceptible to natural predators, such as birds, and also freezing temperatures.

It is best to do this before the ground freezes. Tilling can be a laborious task, and whether you choose to do this may depend on the size of your plot. Tilling the soil can be done manually with a garden fork or a machine, like this electric garden tiller and cultivator at Amazon.

If you do no-dig gardening and don't till the soil, you can pick certain mulches that are known to repel winter pests. Such as using seaweed in the garden, which has jagged edges when it dries, that agitates slugs and keeps them away from the area.

4. Add Beneficial Nematodes

These small-but-mighty microscopic organisms are great for natural pest control and can be added in the fall, provided the soil is not frozen and has a temperature above 41°F.

The beneficial insects feed on soil-borne insects and pests, including fungus gnats, caterpillars, flea beetles, slugs, and more. Different species of beneficial nematodes target set pests, seeking out their prey, reproducing inside of it, and killing the target within 24-48 hours. They can have an effect on pest populations within the soil within a week.

Beneficial nematodes are dormant within their packaging and are mixed with water and applied to the soil. And this mix of live beneficial nematodes at Amazon can guard against over 200 soil-dwelling pests.

Another useful suppressant that can be added to the soil in the fall is diatomaceous earth. It is made from the fossilized remains of aquatic organisms, and its jagged edges pierce soft-bodied pests like aphids, mites, ants, and earwigs, causing them to dehydrate and die.

Diatomaceous earth can be used on the soil around plants, and you can get food-grade diatomaceous earth at Amazon to add to the soil this fall.

5. Plant Cover Crops

Cover crops, also known as green manures, are a great way to prepare garden soil for spring, as they can maintain or even improve soil health, and some can actively help against soil-borne pests and diseases.

Overall, cover crops offer many benefits. They are a great form of organic weed control, they prevent erosion, and keep the soil healthy. Planting a cover crop benefits all the life in the soil, including the relationship between plants, bacteria, and fungi underground.

Retaining healthy soil is fundamental, as it ensures a place for beneficial predators. Those pest-eating predators can also reside in the cover crop over the winter, plus other predators can be attracted to certain green manures when they start blooming in spring.

Some green manures are biofumigants, and release compounds into the soil as they break down that help combat soil-borne pests and pathogens. The most common of these is mustard, a fast-growing green manure that can be chopped and dug back into the soil within six weeks of germinating. The compounds are released as the plant breaks down, helping to reduce pest populations in the soil.

If you want to sow mustard green manure in the fall, it ideally wants to be done 4-6 weeks before your first hard frost. You can get mustard green manure seeds at True Leaf Market to sow.

It also pays to think ahead to combat pest and disease problems by planning out a crop rotation. Moving crops around a vegetable garden keeps the soil healthy and breaks any build-up of pests and diseases in the soil that come from growing the same crops in the same space year after year. I also recommend including green manures in your rotation, which goes even further to ensuring fantastic, healthy soil that your crops will thrive in.

Topsoil is a crucially important part of any garden. It is a term you often hear and a word you see in garden centers and online on products you can use in your yard. But exactly what is topsoil, and what are the options available if you want to add it to your garden?

For starters, topsoil is a naturally occurring product. It is the top layer of the soil and is bustling with nutrients and microorganisms. You have topsoil in your garden, and you can use topsoil to improve garden soil, build new beds, or do many garden improvements.

If you have just started with your garden, or been looking to revamp a space, you may have seen the word and wondered, What is topsoil? If this sounds like you, we want to help. This guide explains what topsoil is, how it differs from other soil, and the types you can use for your backyard ideas.

What is topsoil?

Topsoil is the upper layer of the soil, traditionally classified as the top two to eight inches of the soil profile. It is a crucially important layer of soil that contains organic matter and lots of essential plant nutrients and minerals.

Topsoil is also often home to microorganisms and insects that all contribute to making soil a rich source of activity and nutrients.

However, not all topsoil is the same. Even in one garden, there can be different types of topsoil. If you have poor soil, buying and adding new topsoil is necessary to improve your soil and benefit your plants.

In addition to replenishing areas, topsoil is also regularly used to create new beds, fill raised beds, or when laying turf.

What is topsoil made of?

As mentioned, the quality of the topsoil in your garden can differ. The true topsoil in your yard will fit into one of six different texture types, namely clay, chalk, peat, sand, silt, or loam.

These are categorized by particle size and soil structure, and the type does impact the nutrients and drainage. It is advisable to do a soil test to determine your soil type and determine what it needs to make it more suitable for certain plants.

Topsoil consists of tiny rocks, organic matter, water, and air. The rocks and mineral material have been broken down over centuries into small particles, while the organic matter is decayed material from old leaves, twigs, plant matter, and more. Rocks and organic matter typically make up around 50% of topsoil, with the remainder divided between water and air.

Unfortunately, the quality of topsoil in backyards can vary hugely. Your home may have poor soil quality, which is often the case with newly constructed homes. That is where commercial topsoil becomes a beneficial commodity, but it is important to use high-quality topsoil.

The different types of topsoil – know what you’re buying

You can purchase topsoil from garden centers or nurseries, landscaping supply companies, and online retailers. The route you choose may depend on how much you need, as topsoil can be purchased in bags or bought in bulk for larger projects.

Depending on what your garden project is, you can choose from different types of topsoil:

• Screened topsoil is high-quality soil that has been passed through a mesh to remove rocks, clumps, or roots. The result is a fine texture. Screened topsoil is more consistent and easier to spread, but comes at a higher price.
• Unscreened topsoil has not gone through a mesh, so it is likely to contain rocks, sticks, or roots and will not be as fine. This topsoil can be used for filling, levelling, or bulk landscaping as it is cheaper than screened topsoil.
• Blended topsoil is a mix of different soils and may include compost, sand, or peat moss. It is a good type of topsoil for creating new flower beds or improving your existing soil in borders, but it can come at a premium price.

Before buying topsoil, it is advisable to view it and look for any presence of stones, roots, weeds, or other undesirable materials. Ideally, the soil will be dark, crumbly, and have an earthy smell. You want clean and safe topsoil to use in your yard, not dirt full of weeds, broken glass, or large rocks or chunks of bricks.

As topsoil can sometimes be sourced from building sites, a quality check is important. A reputable retailer should be able to give details of the origin and supply a soil analysis or specification sheet.

FAQs

What is the difference between topsoil and garden soil?

There is a core difference between topsoil and garden soil. Topsoil is the top layer of natural soil, while garden soil is a blend that has extra organic matter, such as compost, manure, fertilizer, or peat moss, added to enrich it. Garden soil is formulated to be mixed with your native soil or topsoil in garden beds.

What is the difference between topsoil and potting soil?

Potting soil, or a potting mix, is a formulated blend of materials for container gardening. It is a lightweight, often soilless mix that includes materials such as peat moss, coco coir, vermiculite and perlite designed to provide good drainage and nutrients for plants in pots and hanging baskets. Such as this organic potting mix at Burpee. Whereas, topsoil is natural soil made of a mix of organic matter and rock particles.

What is the difference between topsoil and compost?

Topsoil and compost are both nutrient-rich materials made of decomposed organic matter. However, topsoil can be a denser material than compost. Compost is made from decomposed garden waste, food scraps, and shredded paper or cardboard. It is commonly used as a soil amendment, added to potting mixes, or used to fertilize plants either by being incorporated at planting time or as a mulching material.

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Topsoil is an ideal material to fill a raised garden bed. Using topsoil ensures a quality mix of organic materials without breaking the bank to fill it with purely compost, which is especially vital if you have tall raised beds.

When it comes to what soil to put in a raised garden bed, a good ratio to aim for is up to 60% topsoil, 30% compost and the remaining 10% sand or grit to provide good drainage.

Chalky soil suits plants that like alkaline and free-draining conditions, and aren't bothered by drought or growing in nutrient-poor soils. Think of plants that thrive in dry summers as this is a good starting point for choosing the best plants for chalky soil.

When planting in chalky soils first establish how deep the topsoil is. A lot depends on whether or not there is some clay present in chalky soil, as this generally means there will be more nutrients and greater moisture content available so more plants will thrive. Alternatively if your soil is very chalky it's better to choose from a more limited selection of plants that thrive in alkaline conditions.

Ahead of choosing any plants for the garden it's always a good idea to check out soil types to establish what conditions you're working with. If in doubt it's worth doing a soil test to get the complete picture. Chalky soil is less common than clay and sandy soils but the good news is there are still plenty of plants that will thrive in these conditions.

10 of the best plants for chalky soil

Chalky soil will happily accommodate a range of flowers, shrubs and trees as long as you improve the soil health by digging in plenty of organic matter to boost the moisture-retaining ability. If you want to play safe choose plants that thrive in alkaline conditions, such as lavender, lilac and honeysuckle.

'Chalk and limestone derive from the shells and bones of ancient creatures that fell to the bottom of seas aeons ago, and under the weight of time and geological processes have become deposits of calcium carbonate in the soil,' explains UK-based soil expert Juliet Sargeant, whose new book Start with Soil is available at Amazon.

'The calcium carbonate makes the soil alkaline and if it's present in chunks, you will see bits of white chalk in the soil. The structure and texture of chalky soils is very variable, depending on the form that the chalk takes and whether there is also clay present.'

'Chalky soil is relatively uncommon in the United States (at least compared to our friends in the UK), but you may be familiar with this challenging soil type if you’re gardening in parts of Texas or on the Great Plains,' says Florida-based master gardener Jon VanZile, author of The Flower Garden Deck, available at Amazon.

'In general, chalky soil is alkaline (high pH) and contains high levels of calcium carbonate or lime. It tends to dry quickly in the sun and doesn’t retain nutrients very well. Because it's so alkaline, it’s not suitable for acid-loving plants, so you’ll want to avoid azaleas, rhododendron, and blue-tinged hydrangeas.'

1. Lavender

'Even though chalky soil is not as common as clay soil or sandy soil, for example, the good news is there are still plenty of beautiful plants to choose from,' says Jon VanZile. 'One of my favorites for this situation is lavender.'

The slender stems of lavender topped with clusters of tiny purple flowers add a touch of beauty to any garden. They will love the free-draining conditions provided by chalky soils. This hardy plant likes growing in warm, sunny climates and is the star of Mediterranean garden ideas, especially as it's drought-tolerant once established.

It's an easy-care choice that will adapt and thrive with whatever chalky soil throws at it. Most lavender varieties flourish in USDA zones 5-9. Jon advises pruning annually to maintain the shape and vigor of your plants.

Try growing lavender for flower bed ideas or as a low hedge to create different planting zones. Make sure you are familiar with the basics of how to grow lavender as well as the best lavender varieties, and you'll soon be wondering why you haven't filled your garden with it before now.

2. Achillea

'Species achilleas (or yarrows) are native to chalk grasslands, so cultivars do well on chalk or any well-drained soil,' says Juliet Sargeant. 'They are ideal for cottage gardens and also prairie-style plantings with ornamental grasses.'

Judith suggests trying the cultivar Achillea ‘Desert Eve Terracotta’, a long-flowering perennial blooming from May–July, with flat-topped clusters of rich terracotta flowers, fading to creamy yellow. This variety is hardy in USDA zones 3-9.

We also love the butterfly magnet Achillea 'Sunny Seduction', available from Nature Hills. Find out how to grow common yarrow so you can add this beauty to your chalky soil planting ideas too.

3. Rosemary

This aromatic, sun-loving Mediterranean herb has a lovely woody fragrance that is a fantastic addition to any garden planting scheme, and is one of the best plants for chalky soil as it loves a gritty, free-draining growing medium and can thrive without water.

Find out how to grow rosemary, such as the importance of choosing a sunny, sheltered spot to get the best results, to add this evergreen staple to your herb garden.

It's also worth knowing that this was recently reclassified as Salvia rosmarinus in case of any confusion at the garden center.

4. Globe thistle

'Another one of the best plants for chalky soil is Echinops ritro (also known as globe thistle),' says Jon. 'Hardy in USDA zones 3-9, it likes full sun and tolerates dry soil well, making it an excellent choice for drought-tolerant planting too.'

Jon recommends deadheading to encourage prolonged blooming, as well as cutting back stems in late fall or early spring. Echinops is also a good choice for wildlife gardens as it's an important source of nectar for pollinators like butterflies. Find Echinops ritro here at Nature Hills.

Choose this plant if your soil is dry and nutrient-poor, especially if you live in a hot and dry climate. You will be rewarded from June to September with plenty of gorgeous spiky blue balls that can grow up to 5 feet tall.

5. Chocolate vine

Also known as Akebia quinata, this vigorous and very pretty twining vine is covered with clusters of deep burgundy, scented flowers that have a spicy fragrance with just a hint of vanilla. This is a great choice if you have chalky soil and you're looking for the best fast-growing climbing plants.

These easy vines can grow up to 20 feet tall, which makes them a good choice for projects such as a tall wall or the side of a house where you're looking for height. Grow them in zones 5-9 for quick cover, especially if you live in a warmer region. Find chocolate vine here at Amazon.

Other climbers that work well for chalky soils include Virginia creeper, clematis, star jasmine, and honeysuckle.

6. California lilac

This fast-growing evergreen has bright green glossy foliage and panicles of rich lilac-blue flowers from late spring throughout summer. A hardy and ornamental West Coast native, this is a great choice to add to your garden landscaping ideas if you have chalky soil as they can be grown as either a shrub or a multi-stemmed tree.

Chalky soil isn't a problem as California lilac grows in some of the harshest locations, and thrives in zones 7-10. They tolerate poor soil, coastal conditions, and full baking sun all day.

They will also attract birds, butterflies and bees in spring and summer, making them a great choice for wildlife garden ideas.

Also known as Ceanothus, once established this variety needs very little care other than light pruning once a year.

7. Weigela

If you're looking for the best flowering shrubs for chalky soil, one of Juliet Sargeant's favorite varieties is Weigela ‘Florida variegata’ (pictured above). 'A deciduous arching shrub with variegated leaves, this has pink trumpet flowers in May/June,' says Juliet.

'It's a classic ‘English cottage garden’ shrub, which is invaluable for plugging the early spring gap in flower color.'

Growing to a height of around 8 feet, this easy to grow shrub likes moist but well-drained soil in sun or partial shade, and tolerates chalky conditions well.

Growing in zones 4-8, this variety will add height and spread at a decent pace, up to 24 inches a year, to fill out your landscaping design beautifully.

8. Crab apple tree

Find out how to plant crab apple trees in your yard and it's one decision you won't regret. These beautiful ornamental trees offer four seasons of interest and the good news is they won't be phased by chalky soil conditions either. Thriving in zones 4-8, once established they show a good level of drought resistance too.

Offering clouds of fragrant spring blossom, a cooling summer leaf canopy, fruit and colorful foliage in fall, and shapely structure in winter, crab apple trees really are a year-round asset in the garden.

Crab apple trees make it on to our list of the best trees for small gardens too, as they're a go-to if you're looking for an easy medium-sized tree to add to your landscape. Take a look at our guide to the best trees for sandy soil too.

9. Japanese maple

Many varieties of Japanese maple trees thrive in chalky soil conditions, particularly Acer campestre (field maple). When you're at the garden center look for labels marked Acer pseudoplatanus and Acer platanoides if you're looking for a variety that will do well in chalky soil.

One of the best varieties of maple for chalky soil is Acer platanoides 'Princeton Gold' (pictured above) with its striking golden spring and summer foliage making it an excellent ornamental tree. Japanese maples are one of the best trees for fall color too.

Most Japanese maples do well in zones 5-8. They can be grown in warmer zones, but may suffer from leaf scorch in hot weather.

10. Agapanthus

If you love big, bold plants that offer showy good looks and color then try agapanthus, which is one of the best plants for chalky soil. This stunning tall-stemmed perennial features multiple spikes with large globes of blue flowers (you can also get white and pink varieties) from July through to September above clumps of shapely mid-green leaves.

Choose the sunniest spot possible for these tropical beauties, which love warmth and being bathed in sunshine.

Agapanthus is one of the best summer-flowering bulbs for Southern gardens, and grows best in USDA hardiness zones 9-11. They thrive in well-drained soil, so chalky conditions are ideal.

Interestingly they are also one of the best fire-resistant plants. This is because their leaves are filled with a water-based gel, so they can catch wind-blown embers and help slow or even stop the spread of low-burning fires.

So that's our expert selection of the best plants for chalky soil. If you want to find out more about plants for specific soil conditions, we have expert guides to the best plants for sandy soil, the best plants for clay soil, and the best plants for loamy soil.

Nitrogen is one of the most essential nutrients for healthy plant growth. Most plants cannot utilise the nitrogen in the air around us, so they rely on the nitrogen available in the soil. However, not all soils are nitrogen-rich, and even if they once were, nitrogen levels deplete over time, so it's up to us gardeners to maintain nitrogen levels in the soil. If not replenished, soil fertility declines, leading to weaker plants and smaller harvests.

But why do plants need nitrogen? You may hear us regularly rhapsodize about how crucial soil health is for your yard. For your planting to be at its most exuberant and the colors at their most saturated, the plants need rich, productive soil that is rich in nitrogen, as it is a key component of chlorophyll, which plants use to photosynthesize and produce energy.

Happily, there are several methods gardeners can use to replenish this essential nutrient in their soil. Here are 5 tried and tested ways to add nitrogen to your soil, so your plants can reach their full potential.

1. Add well-rotted compost to your soil

Perhaps one of the most common and economical ways to improve garden soil and increase nitrogen levels is to use a well-rotted, homemade compost. A compost heap can be a real boon to any garden; it is not only a nitrogen-rich food product for your soil, but it also improves the overall soil structure and helps to maintain good moisture levels, too.

Robin Phelps, an experienced grower and the gardening and preserving coach for Sow Many Plants, notes that a well-rotted compost will also improve the microbial life of the soil, one of the lesser-known secrets of soil. ‘Well-rotted compost improves overall soil structure and microbial life,’ she notes. ‘These microbes help break down organic matter and cycle nutrients, improving soil structure and the long-term health of the soil and plants.’

2. Use manure for a nitrogen boost

Whilst this method of adding nitrogen to your soil may sound a little off-putting, since manure is simply animal poo mixed with the animal’s bedding, such as straw or wood shavings, if you can look (or smell) past the origins of manure, it is a well-tried method of replenishing nitrogen-deprived soils worth considering.

‘Aged animal manures, like chicken, cow, or horse manure, are high in nitrogen and excellent for boosting fertility.’ Robin explains. It's worth noting that the phrase ‘aged animal manure’ or ‘well-rotted manure’ is key, as fresh manure is not suitable, as it can burn plant roots.

As long as the manure is well rotted, crucially, it is more than six months old, it is wonderfully easy to use, just simply spread it on the surface of bare soil or dig gently into the ground, and let it work its magic.

3. Use an organic fertilizer

When we look to give our soil an injection of nutrients, we can supply this in organic or inorganic forms. Inorganic fertilisers are usually synthetic, and can be absorbed very easily and speedily, which in many ways sounds ideal.

However, this is something of a red herring. They do not require any beneficial soil bacteria to be broken down, which renders these bacteria redundant and therefore can damage the long-term health of the soil.

Instead, if you are on the hunt for a fast-acting, easy-to-use, high-nitrogen organic fertilizer, Robin recommends opting for an organic fertilizer instead, like blood meal or this organic bone meal available at Nature Hills. These organic fertilizers need to be broken down by the soil’s bacteria first before they work, and hardworking bacteria make for happy, healthy soil.

Because blood meal is so high in nitrogen, it is particularly beneficial for heavy feeding plants like dark leafy greens, which need a high amount of nitrogen. It is remarkably easy to use too, and can be applied before sowing seeds, planting, or as a top dressing throughout the growing season.

4. Use fish emulsion for the early growing stages

Fish emulsion is a liquid fertilizer that provides quick nitrogen as well as other vital nutrients. Robin notes that it is 'especially helpful during early growth stages' as it provides all the elements needed for rapid growth, including very high levels of that all-important nitrogen.

Fish emulsion, like this liquid fish fertilizer available at Amazon, can be applied as a foliar spray, allowing plants to absorb nutrients through their leaves. This can be particularly effective for seedlings and young plants, and the high levels of nitrogen help them get established and strengthen their root system.

Admittedly fish emulsion does have a strong odour, and that may be a dealbreaker for some. But if you are looking for a powerful punch of nitrogen, fish emulsion certainly delivers.

5. Plant nitrogen-fixing cover crops

Cover crops, otherwise known as green manures, are essentially plants used to improve your soil by returning depleted nutrients. Although I’ve included this last on the list of ways to add nitrogen to your soil, it is arguably the method that reaps the most benefits.

Varieties of cover crops include legumes, alfalfa, vetches, and some grasses such as rye. Once planted, they should be left to grow for several months before being cut down and dug into the soil. By digging them into the soil, they will break down, delivering a jolt of nitrogen into the soil for your soon-to-be-planted crops and flowers.

‘Planting nitrogen-fixing cover crops like clover, vetch, or field peas during the off-season is a way of naturally adding nitrogen to the soil,’ explains Robin. ‘These plants work with soil bacteria to convert the atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use. When tilled into the soil before planting season, they also improve soil structure and organic content,’ she notes.

As well as delivering nitrogen to your soil, green manures provide a home to beneficial pest-eating insects, maintain the soil’s structure, and are excellent at weed control.

Wise buys for adding nitrogen to your soil

If your plants are looking a bit pale, stunted or are worryingly slow to grow, the chances are they would benefit from more nitrogen in the soil. Happily, there are many ways to do this, and it is likely there is one method that would suit you and your outdoor space best.

Whether that be the naturalistic method of implementing the 'green manure' technique, or, like me, if patience is not your best virtue, a ready-to-go fish and bone fertilizer with naturally high nitrogen levels would be the way to go.

If you are keen to try your hand at implementing cover crops, try these green lentil cover crop seeds from True Leaf Market, which are modestly priced and perfect for replenishing nitrogen levels.

Borders underneath large trees can be challenging to cultivate. Whether you have a large oak, poplar or chestnut tree in your yard, often the ground underneath can appear dull and bare, save for a few opportune seedlings or weeds.

However, some shrubs are well-suited to these conditions, preferring the dappled shade of a larger, established tree overhead. In hot summers, this canopy can protect shrubs, shielding them from the harsh rays of the July sun.

If you are looking for some of the best plants for under trees, these five shrubs will grow quite happily in challenging conditions. From the scented daphne to the evergreen Japanese holly, these shrubs for under trees will help you to make the most of your growing space.

Best shrubs for under trees

Most yards typically have one, two or several established trees. Or, maybe you have none, but there is a large established tree in the neighboring plot. Whatever your circumstances, trees can prove challenging for other plants, creating a dry, shaded region underneath their canopy. For this reason, growing shrubs for shade or part-shade that are adaptable and resilient is the best course of action. Here are five shrubs for under trees to fill your borders with greenery.

1. Viburnum

'There are approximately 170 viburnum varieties found growing across much of the Northern Hemisphere, with a wide range of beautiful options for gardeners,' says Alex Kantor, gardening expert and owner at Perfect Plants. 'They thrive in partial shade and prefer well-drained soil. While drought-tolerant, be sure to water consistently during the first year while the shrub settles into your yard.

'Most - if not all - viburnums are woodland plants, growing at the edge of forests and thriving in dappled, partial sunlight,' Alex says. 'They are prized for their beautiful and often fragrant flowers, and can be used as hedges, understory plants or specimen shrubs.'

One native option would be the maple-leafed viburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, which is found growing in woodlands from New Jersey down to North Carolina. This species can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and will tolerate dappled dry shade under the canopy of a large deciduous tree.

Another option would be Viburnum rhytidophyllum, or the leatherleaf viburnum, seen in the image above. This evergreen option has attractive oval leaves and dainty pink blooms in spring. Leatherleaf viburnum seeds are available to order from Amazon.

2. Azaleas

'Azaleas are well-suited for growing under large trees, especially in dappled or partial shade,' says Alex. 'They prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil and benefit from a layer of mulch to retain some moisture during summer.

'Choose the 'Red Ruffles' variety, available from Perfect Plants, for a smaller option with spectacular color,' Alex recommends. Alternatively try growing the yellow azalea, otherwise known as Rhododendron luteum, seen in the image above, which can be grown in shady beds down to US hardiness zone 5.

As a former professional gardener, I previously cared for three yellow azaleas that grew in a shady woodland border, and I can testify that these are some of the best shrubs for under trees in deep shade.

'In terms of how to grow azaleas, water them regularly, especially during dry spells,' says Alex, 'which will help them to establish in the first few years. Annual mulching will also help to feed the plant, and avoid any need for supplemental fertilizer.'

3. Daphne

Daphne is an ideal understory plant, thriving in a part-sun-part-shade position under large trees. They can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus, and in milder regions, will retain their foliage year-round.

'Daphne are spectacular but slow-growing shrubs, typically only growing around two to six inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

The most common form, winter daphne, otherwise known as Daphne odora, is a compact shrub producing attractive pink, star-like fragrant blooms in winter. For an unusual species that is well-suited for dry and deep shade, try Daphne laureola, producing small yellow-green flowers that will illuminate borders in challenging spots under large trees.

'The optimal time to plant daphne bushes is during the fall or early spring,' Mike adds. 'These periods allow the plant to establish its roots before facing extreme temperatures.'

Daphne live plants are available from Walmart.

4. Japanese holly

Japanese holly, or Ilex crenata, is considered one of the easiest evergreen shrubs to grow and can prove useful underneath large trees where conditions are tough. This slow-growing plant is similar to other topiary plants, including yew or box, in that it forms a dense spread of lush, green foliage.

Japanese holly is suitable for cooler regions and can be grown from zone 5 plus. What's more, it is also pest and problem-free, in stark contrast to box topiary. While you can shape them with regular pruning, you can leave them alone under large trees to form a loose, natural green covering. Dark berries will also help to add interest to your fall and winter garden.

Japanese holly live plants are available from Walmart.

5. Sweet box

If you are looking for some of the best fragrant evergreens, sweet box, or Sarcococca confusa, is one plant to consider. Native to Asia and the Himalayas, sweet box is a shade-tolerant understory plant, that can thrive in dry soil and deep shade. What's more, they are also considered some of the best ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion, helping to bind loose, dry soil in sloped sites.

When working as a gardener in London, I cared for several sweet box shrubs that had been planted underneath large deciduous London plane trees, Platanus × hispanica. I rarely paid the sweet box shrubs much attention and they proved to be tough and versatile plants.

In terms of how to grow sweet box, it does best from US hardiness zone 6 plus, positioned in deep shade or part shade. Water well during the first year, and annually apply a thick layer of mulch to help with moisture retention.

Sarcococca live starter plants are available from Walmart.

FAQs

How should I plant shrubs under trees?

Planting around the base of a tree can be a challenge. It is best to keep at least a few feet away from the trunk of the tree, and to dig smaller holes using a trowel or hori hori knife, to avoid disturbing the tree roots in any way. For this reason, it is best to use starter plants that will eventually grow into larger shrubs. While this requires a degree of patience, starting small will produce the best results.

Planting one or more of these shade-tolerant species under large trees will help cover the bare patches of soil in your yard. Always remember, right plant right place, and in this case, using woodland plants in the understory of your garden will help to maximize greenery in challenging borders.

For more garden inspiration, see our guide on the best trees for water absorption, to help reduce waterlogging and wet borders in your yard.

During stormy weather and periods of heavy rainfall, many yards can experience waterlogging or even flooding. Excess water in your yard can be more than just an inconvenience, it can lead to property damage. Fortunately for us gardeners, many trees can help with water absorption and reduce moisture levels.

Certain tree species, both native and non-native, have evolved to thrive in wet regions, with extensive root networks taking up large amounts of water. Growing species that have impressive water-absorbing abilities will help to ease the pressure on drainage systems during fall and winter.

So, if you are looking for plants for wet soil that you can utilize as a natural drainage solution, here are five of the best trees for water absorption, including elegant weeping willows and robust, resilient arborvitae, for attractive and practical borders this year.

Best trees for water absorption

Levels of moisture in the soil vary depending on geology, climate and US hardiness zone. In northern regions that experience heavy snow and rainfall in winter, for example, waterlogging is common during January, February and March. However, using trees for water absorption is a clever landscaping trick that can help to improve drainage.

Even one large tree can make a difference, with some estimates suggesting that a single 100-foot-tall tree can absorb more than 11,000 gallons of water in a single growing season.

1. Willow

There are approximately 350 species of willow, or Salix, native to cool and temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere. They come in many different shapes and sizes, and most are well suited to water absorption, particularly the weeping willow, Salix babylonica. or the white willow, Salix alba.

Most willow species can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9, with a preference for full-sun and moist soil. A word of caution, however, is that 'these fast-growing trees need plenty of space,' says Florida-based tree expert Alex Kantor.

'With a rapid growth rate and extensive root system, willows can cause problems in smaller yards, disrupting pipes and outcompeting smaller plants,' Alex adds. 'At maturity, some species can reach 50 feet tall, so these are certainly trees to avoid planting close to a house.'

So, while they are well-regarded for water absorption, willows are best suited to larger, rural plots. Finally, always do your homework, as some willows are considered invasive trees in particular states.

While the standard weeping willow is far too large for a smaller space, there are several dwarf varieties that are better suited to smaller borders. For example, Salix integra 'Pendula' is one dwarf variety that is highly rated for water absorption but will not grow taller than three to four feet.

Weeping willow live plants are available from Walmart.

2. Red maple

The red maple, or Acer rubrum, is a native alternative to Japanese maples. Found growing in swampy or wet areas across North America, the roots of the red maple can efficiently manage excess moisture in the soil, making this a good option for flood-prone regions.

Red maples grow best in US hardiness zones 3 plus, tolerating a variety of soil and light conditions. They can grow upwards of 60 feet, so for the best results, give them plenty of room to grow at the back of your plot.

Finally, this native tree is perhaps best known for putting on a brilliant fall display, with deep red foliage helping to mark the transition into fall. Practical and beautiful, all in one tree.

Red maple live plants are available from Walmart.

3. River birch

For a native option that is well suited to wet, poorly drained soils, try growing the river birch, or Betula nigra. As you might guess by the name, the natural habitat of the river birch includes riverbanks, making it a good choice for regions with periodic flooding.

The river birch can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 with a preference for full sun. It produces shallow but wide-spreading roots that absorb moisture while also stabilizing the soil.

Just be sure to give the tree plenty of room to grow - at maturity, river birches can reach up to and over 60 feet tall. While you can prune the tree to limit its height, remember that the bigger the tree, the greater its ability to absorb moisture.

River birches are also known for their peeling bark, which adds year-round visual interest and texture to borders, complementing the golden-yellow foliage display in the fall months.

River birch live trees are available from Walmart.

4. Eucalptus

There are over 700 different eucalyptus species growing worldwide, most of which are native to hot regions in Oceania. However, some species, such as the swamp gum, Eucalyptus ovata, or the river red gum, Eucalyptus camaldulensis, thrive in boggy, wet soils.

Both of these two options are best suited to mild, temperate areas from US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10, with a preference for sunshine and high humidity.

In very dry areas, eucalyptus trees can be a fire hazard, as their foliage and bark are notoriously flammable. What's more, they can reach upwards to 100 feet tall if left unpruned, so any eucalyptus species are best suited to large yards and should be planted far away from the home.

Eucalyptus live trees are available from Amazon.

5. Arborvitae

'Arborvitae, or Thuja, are often considered fast-growing hedges, shrubs or trees, showcasing remarkable growth in short periods,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center.

'The ‘Green Giant’ variety can grow two to three feet per year once established,' Bert adds, 'which is helpful if you are looking to fill a gap in a sunny yard.

'These are some of the easiest evergreen trees to grow and are fully hardy, growing down to zone 3,' Bert says. 'What's more, they can tolerate very wet environments, making them a great choice for areas with consistently moist soil in fall, winter and spring.'

Arborvitae live plants are available from Amazon.

Whatever trees for water absorption you opt to grow, remember that planting is best done from fall until early spring, typically around November until March. Select a week when the temperature is cold but not frosty, and avoid planting into waterlogged soil.

For more gardening inspiration, see our guide to some of the best low-maintenance trees, to fill your yard with adaptable and resilient species that require little attention.

Soil health is sometimes overlooked when we're caught up in the excitement of growing new and beautiful plants, which is what makes World Soil Day on 5 December all the more important. Every year this internationally celebrated day gives us the opportunity to learn more about sustainable soil management and share ways to improve soil quality.

If you can't figure out the reason your plants aren't growing well, it might just be that you need to assess your soil health. Nutrient deficiencies, poor drainage and issues of mold are just some of the problems that could be happening in your soil, but don't fret. There are lots of ways to give your soil a boost and we have the easiest solution: grow plants that improve soil quality.

No matter what soil type you have in your yard, there are certain plants that will benefit your soil by boosting nutrients, reduce compaction and deter pests. Here, we've put together five of the best plants that improve soil quality for you to get started with.

5 plants that improve soil quality

Before rushing to get these plants in the ground, bear in mind different plants thrive in different types of soil. Always research the type of soil you have and its pH level to determine whether your plants will grow well there. This soil test kit from Amazon can help you understand your soil better, including the current state of its health.

'Healthy soil is alive, dynamic, and interconnected - a teaspoon of healthy soil contains more microorganisms than there are people on Earth,' says Valeria Nyman, gardening expert from gardening app Taim.io.

'Poor soil, by contrast, is effectively a ghost town. Without care, it erodes, compacts, and loses the ability to support crops. Improving soil helps build resilience and will help feed future generations,' she adds.

With this in mind and a better understanding of your soil, you can try growing some of the best plants that improve soil quality:

1. Wild lupine

• US hardiness zone: 3-8
• Soil type: Loam, sand
• Soil pH: Neutral-acidic

If you love cottage gardens or want to introduce more cottage garden plants into your yard, you'll be pleased to know wild lupines (Lupinus perennis) do plenty for soil.

'Lupines are nature’s nitrogen factories. They partner with bacteria to fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants,' explains Valeria.

Nitrogen helps plants with a number of plant processes, especially vegetative growth. A deficiency of nitrogen might look like slow growth and discoloring foliage.

'I once planted wild lupine in a corner of my yard where nothing thrived, and within a year, it became the lushest spot in the garden,' says Valeria. 'A bonus: their deep roots also break up compacted soil,' she adds.

You can also easily propagate lupines from cuttings, seeds and through division, so you can grow them throughout your yard to benefit your soil.

Find a wild lupine plant at Nature Hills.

2. Borage

• US hardiness zone: 2-11
• Soil type: Chalk, clay, loam, sand
• Soil pH: Acid, alkaline, neutral

You might know borage (Borago officinalis) as a herb garden plant with a slight cucumber taste. It can also be found among wildflower gardens for its bright, blue blooms.

'It's leaves are rich in nutrients, and when they break down, they feed the soil,' explains Valeria. 'Bees love them, too, which boosts pollination for neighboring plants,' she adds.

As Valeria points out, this plant for pollinators is valuable to gardens in multiple ways. It releases multiple essential nutrients for plant growth into soil, including calcium and potassium.

'Plus, borage is a plant for poor soil, making it a fantastic pioneer plant,' Valeria notes.

You can grow borage from these borage seeds available at Amazon.

3. Marigold

• US hardiness zone: 2-11
• Soil type: Clay, loam, sand
• Soil pH: Acid, alkaline, neutral

We already know that marigolds (Tagetes) make the list of best pest-repellent plants because they emit a strong scent. Well, their pest control ability also works beneath ground:

'They release compounds from their roots that suppress nematodes, tiny pests that damage plant roots,' says Valeria.

Not be mistaken with beneficial nematodes (available at Amazon), disadvantageous nematodes, including root-knot nematodes, attack plant roots. As Valeria notes, the roots of marigolds produce toxins that kill these nematodes. 'Healthier roots mean better soil structure over time,' she says.

The bonus about growing marigolds is they are incredibly versatile. Grow them in a balcony garden, container garden or plant marigolds in a vegetable garden.

Start with this marigold grow kit from Nature Hills.

4. Red clover

• US hardiness zone: 5-9
• Soil type: Clay, loam
• Soil pH: Acid

There are quite a lot of flowering weeds for pollinators that are good to leave for bees, butterflies and more. Red clover (Trifolium pratense) is one of them. Not only does this pink-hued clover provide a beautiful carpet across lawns, it's also rich in nitrogen.

'Red clover is a superstar at fixing nitrogen and improving soil texture. It also shades the soil, reducing erosion and water loss,' explains Valeria. 'Farmers often use red clover between crop cycles, but backyard gardeners can use it too. It's basically a living blanket for tired soil,' she adds.

This ground cover plant's ability to maintain soil structure is just one of the unexpected benefits of growing clover, which is why it's a good choice for using throughout your yard. Some types do self-seed, so you often don't have to worry about replanting it - so long as you don't mind it cropping up in unexpected places.

Find red clover seeds on Amazon.

5. Sunflowers

• US hardiness zone: 2-11
• Soil type: Chalk, clay, loam, sand
• Soil pH: Alkaline, neutral, acid

Growing sunflowers is a popular task on many gardeners' spring gardening checklist. These joyful flowers stand tall in summer gardens before gardeners harvest sunflower seeds in fall. If you aren't already tempted to grow them, their ability to improve soil health will persuade you:

'Sunflowers are soil scrappers. They draw up heavy metals and toxins, acting as natural soil cleaners,' says Valeria.

This process is called phytoremediation and involves plant roots drawing up metals, toxins and contaminates in soil. As Valeria notes, this leaves your soil 'cleaner.' Not only this, but helpful nutrients (like zinc) can then be released from sunflowers and transferred to neighboring plants.

'While they’re working hard underground, their blooms provide seeds for wildlife,' Valeria adds.

FAQs

Are any plants bad for soil quality?

While there is no black and white answer as to whether a plant is bad for soil quality, there are some plants that have habits that can be disadvantageous to soil and garden health. For example, invasive plants and invasive bulbs often have vigorous growth that disrupts ecosystems and changes soil structure. Similarly, plants with tap roots can be difficult to work with in the soil, but they also help break up compacted soil and create air pockets which is beneficial for soil health.

Growing these plants that improve soil quality is a good place to start when trying to boost soil nutrients and improve the structure of your soil. If you've discovered you need to amend your soil's pH, there are lots of ways to make soil more acidic.

If you are landscaping slopes or banks in your yard, consider growing ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion. Heavy rainfall can cause the land to shift and slide without binding the soil, which is a worry particularly if you have a sloping bank near your home.

In addition, the spreading habit of these plants will help to protect the soil from sun damage, which can also erode the soil by drying out the upper layers. Over time, this will transform the soil into a loose fine dust, liable to shift during heavy rain or strong winds.

Fortunately, there are many ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion from happening. The following expert-approved list includes five of the best ground cover plants that are both practical and beautiful, with both evergreen and floral options that have strong, fibrous root systems.

Best ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion

Few landscaping worries are more pressing than unstable, sloping ground. Unmanaged and unplanted banks pose a risk, particularly worrying during fall and winter with heavy rain and snowfall.

Erosion control, therefore, is important, and selecting plants that will bind the soil is a good insurance policy for any homeowner. So, if you are looking for sloping garden ideas to help protect your soil, the following five options should be at the top of your plant wish list.

1. Japanese spurge

Japanese spurge, or Pachysandra terminalis, is one of the easiest evergreen ground cover plants to grow. As a gardener, I have grown this species in several private gardens where I have worked and can testify to its hardy and resilient nature.

Japanese spurge can be grown from US hardiness zone 5, doing best in part-shade with well-draining soil. With a dense, mat-forming habit, it is very useful for planting on slopes to help bind the soil with its network of fleshy, spreading roots.

While it can be slow to establish, after a few years this plant will spread, and you can easily lift and divide clumps to generate new growth elsewhere in your yard.

One cost-effective option is to plant Japanese spurge bare-root plants, available online from Amazon. These can be done in the fall months before the temperatures drop below zero.

2. Creeping juniper

Creeping juniper, Juniperus horizontalis, is a low-growing native plant found growing across the cooler regions of North America down to US hardiness zone 4. Growing best in dry, sunny spots, creeping juniper has a dense root system that can stabilize soil in dryer regions.

'Junipers are fragrant evergreen pine trees that make for ideal landscaping plants,' says Sam Niemann, garden expert and founder of Grown by Design, a boutique landscape design firm based in San Diego.

'They do not tend to grow above 1 or 2 feet in height but can spread to about 10 feet wide, helping to cover large beds or sloping banks in the yard.'

Creeping juniper plants are available from Walmart.

3. Bearberry

Bearberry plants have a strong, dense root system that can limit and prevent soil erosion. This plant can grow in poor soils or even sandy banks, helping to add structure to loose soils.

This ground cover is cold-hardy and can be grown down to zone 2, making it an ideal pick if you are learning how to plan a garden with a steep bank in a northerly region. Bearberry plants are available from Amazon.

'Bearberry is a native plant found growing across North America,' says Tabar Gifford, plant expert and American Meadows master gardener. 'Over time, this ground cover plant will produce a dense, compact mat, ideal for challenging areas in the yard.

'Plant bearberry in full sun,' Tabar adds, 'providing them with plenty of room to grow. Over time, one plant can spread as wide as six feet, helping to cover large areas.'

4. Monkey grass

Monkey grass, Liriope muscari, is perfect if you are looking for low-maintenance garden border ideas. Monkey grass can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10, producing lush evergreen, grass-like foliage that can carpet large borders and banks.

Monkey grass has a fibrous but shallow root system that would be ideal for a gently sloping area. While it can take a year or two to establish, once monkey grass settles, it requires little attention. What's more, the late-season purple or white flowers are ideal for a splash of color in the yard.

If you intend to cover a large area, it would be more cost-effective to order bare-root monkey grass plants, available from Walmart, which can be done in the fall months.

5. Sweet box

Sweet box or winter box, Sarcococca confusa, is a striking scented evergreen that I have cared for in two public gardens where I have worked in London. While it is a slow-growing plant, it is certainly worth the wait, and I would argue is one of the best winter flowers for scent.

Sweet box is a versatile plant and can be grown in pots or in the ground, growing best from US hardiness zone 6 plus. It is a suckering and spreading shrub, sending out roots that can help to stabilize soils with its extensive root system. While it can reach a height of five feet, it is easily controlled and limited in size, making for an ideal ground cover plant to prevent soil erosion.

Sweet box live starter plants are available from Walmart.

FAQs

What is the best ground cover plant for a sun-drenched, sloping yard?

Lamb's ear, Stachys byzantina, is an ideal option for a sunny, sloping yard. With silver foliage, this plant will tolerate full sun and dry summers, able to grow in both cool and warm regions from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9. With a spreading habit, this plant will bind the earth and form an attractive covering that will prevent the sun from scorching and drying the soil. Lamb's ear starter plants are available from Walmart.

If deer often find their way into your yard, it is a good idea to use deer-resistant plants on slopes and banks to deter these garden pests from disturbing the soil. Choose plants like wild ginger or creeping juniper to help repel unwelcome visitors which can quickly loosen the soil by trampling and digging.

For more information on problem areas in your yard, see our guide to the best rees for water absorption, to put an end to waterlogging and wet soil.

Making sure the soil in your raised beds drains well when you are growing plants is of prime importance.

When you build a raised bed, the position and materials will be uppermost in your mind, but they will count for very little if your plants fail thanks to poor drainage.

Raised beds need good drainage to carry nutrients through the soil to the plants to stimulate strong, healthy growth, but the soil also has to hold onto enough moisture to stop the plants drying out. Getting the balance right is crucial. Years of raised bed cultivation has taught me how to get the best results, so here are my top five tips for optimizing drainage in your raised beds.

1. Choose the right spot

When choosing the best place for your raised bed, there are several important factors to bear in mind.

The ideal spot should be sheltered, receive generous amounts of sun and have easy access to irrigation, such as a nearby water barrel.

One of the most important things to take into consideration is the soil underneath, because if it is solid, heavy clay, the drainage potential will be lessened and you could end up with a waterlogged bed and unhappy plants.

Inspect your yard after heavy rain and make a note of and avoid the areas where water lingers instead of draining away quickly.

If you are still unsure, dig in a few places to ascertain what type of soil you have. Sandy soil should drain well, but heavy clay will hold onto rain and you may need to install drainage pipes at the base of your raised bed, which is an additional expense and effort.

2. Create a free-draining base layer

The base layer of your raised bed is critical to its drainage. If you are lining your raised bed, use a liner that allows free movement of water such as burlap, wire mesh, landscape fabric or even cardboard. Raised bed liners are available from Walmart.

On top of this, add a layer of rubble, which will have the same effect of improving drainage as the layer of crocks (broken pottery) we place at the bottom of a patio container.

Once the stones are in place, if you lifted an area of grass to create your raised bed, place the turves upside down on top of them.

This will further improve drainage and the soil caught in the roots of the grass will enrich the bed and may also contain worms. This again improves drainage, as worms create their tunnels through the soil and around the plant roots.

3. Add organic matter

The easiest way of improving drainage in your raised beds is to use nutrient-rich, free-draining soil and organic additives. You can buy raised bed soil, such as Miracle Gro organic raised bed soil on Amazon.

However, the best growing materials you can use are well-rotted homemade compost and manure, which have been used for generations to enrich soil and open it up so that moisture can run through it, irrigating plants and delivering essential nutrients to their roots for optimum growth.

Not only is it packed with nutrients, it also comes fully-loaded with earthworms and beneficial microbes to give your plants a natural boost.

Of course, not everyone is able to make enough homemade compost for their raised bed, but even if you only have a little, I recommend adding it to commercially made compost for an extra boost.

Many farms and stables sell sacks of manure cheaply, and leaf mold is another great ingredient for improving soil drainage and feeding your plants.

4. Install drainage pipes

If you have no option but to build a raised bed on clay soil, you may need to install a drainage system of outflow pipes. If you choose to do this, make sure the pipes feed directly into a drainage channel or water barrel to avoid soaking your yard or flooding your house (or a neighbor’s).

If you are digging a drainage channel, survey the land first to avoid damaging gas or water lines buried in the soil.

Remember that while drainage pipes will help prevent waterlogging, they may be too efficient at draining, leading to dry soil that needs more watering during hot and dry spells.

Flex-Drain landscaping drainage pipes are available at Amazon.

5. No-dig gardening

Compacted soil does not drain well, so disturbing the soil in your raised beds is a great way of improving drainage.

Follow the no-dig, or lasagna gardening, principle and instead of digging it over, weed carefully and add more well-rotted compost at the beginning and end of each growing season to boost nutrients and help soil micro-organisms and invertebrates keep the mixture open and aerated.

You can also add garden grit, vermiculite and perlite, as these also help keep the soil open and draining well.

Green manures are another excellent and traditional way of improving drainage in raised beds. Sow them in the fall, then chop them down in late winter or a few weeks before you plan to start planting or sowing in spring. Cover the cut stems with more compost and they will soon rot down, feeding the soil and opening it up.

FAQs

Can I improve drainage in an established raised bed?

Absolutely - there is no need to remove all the filling and plants and start again. It may take a full turn of the seasons, but if you start incorporated well-rotted compost and manure, as well as something gritty or some wood chip to open the structure of the growing media, the drainage will improve.

You might also consider growing plants with roots that help break up and improve the draining abilities of heavy soils, including potatoes, peas and beans, asters, black eyed Susans and bergenia.

How deep should my raised bed be?

The height of your raised bed will depend on the materials you have and the plants you intend to grow. For optimum drainage and healthy plants, I would create a bed that's at least 20in deep. This allows roots to grow down and develop well and it also gives enough depth for water to drain through and carry nutrients to your plants.

Do raised beds dry out?

A well-built raised bed that has a good depth and a healthy mix of soil and organic matter should not dry out completely, but shallow beds are likely to need more watering during prolonged hot dry spells.

Many of the natural methods used to improve the drainage in your raised bed can also be used in the wider yard to open compacted soil and improve its nutrient levels, boosting your plants and creating an oasis with year-round colour and interest. As we are heading into the winter, take steps now to winterize your raised garden beds, and prepare them for the next growing season.

Any vegetable garden slows down as winter approaches and being proactive when it comes to preparing it for the cold weather will reap dividends come spring. There are still crops to harvest over the winter, but an increased focus can go into preparing beds for next year.

While you are busy in the summer with sowing, planting, feeding, weeding, and harvesting, the fall and winter can be more relaxed. It does not mean there are not important tasks to do and I spent many days clearing beds, mulching, harvesting, and more throughout winter when working as a kitchen gardener.

The time that goes into winterizing a vegetable garden is very beneficial. Preparing beds and nourishing the soil health means less to do come spring and next year’s crops benefit from less weeds, nutrient-rich soil, and no diseases hanging around from last year.

How to winterize your vegetable garden

I worked in kitchen gardens 12 months a year for many growing seasons and was kept busy, so here is some tips for how to winterize a vegetable garden.

Along with my own experiences, I also hear from some expert vegetable growers to put together a list of the five most recommended jobs to do ahead of winter.

1. Harvest vegetables

The vegetables you may overwinter will depend on your US hardiness zone. Hardy vegetables like many brassicas, spinach, and garlic, can tolerate very low temperatures, but there is a wide selection of semi-hardy crops. These can overwinter happily in US hardiness 7 and up but may need harvesting before winter in US hardiness 6 and below.

This list includes carrots, beets, turnips, and rutabaga - crops which will suffer once the ground freezes. Covering them with a layer of straw can help with overwintering vegetables, to prevent a light ground frost and make harvesting easier. However, growers in colder zones, or with heavy soil, should lift them ahead of time.

If you are growing potatoes and have not yet lifted them, harvest your potatoes before winter to avoid tubers rotting in the ground. Any tender crops, including pumpkins, squash, and zucchini should be harvested before the first frosts.

2. Remove old crops

The colder winter weather will mean the end of your summer crops, they will have provided many delicious harvests during the warmer months but will succumb to the winter freeze. Clear away plant debris for winter and use any disease-free old leaves and stems to make compost.

Christian Douglas, author of The Food Forward Garden, says it is ‘the perfect time to prune and clean up’ as there is now less harvesting. He adds: ‘Removing debris will reduce the chances of disease next season and minimize hiding places for slugs and other winter pests.’

The vegetable garden should not be empty as many vegetables to overwinter can provide harvests throughout the colder months. The likes of kale, winter cabbages, cauliflower, parsnips, and Brussels sprouts can successfully overwinter outdoors through winter.

3. Cover the soil

It is beneficial to cover the soil ahead of winter. It protects the soil from erosion, smothers weeds, and can boost microbial activity. There are a few potential options for covering the soil, including mulching with organic matter, putting down cardboard, or sowing cover crops and green manures.

• Mulching: ‘Without the dense leaf canopy and root systems of summer vegetables the soil is left exposed, but this can easily be fixed by applying a layer of mulch,’ recommends Christian Douglas. ‘I prefer using a 1-2 inch layer of organic compost, which not only protects the soil but adds essential nutrients and microbiology, enriching the soil for next spring.’ Compost should always be the number one option for mulching a vegetable garden and fertilizing a vegetable garden in the fall. However, alternatives to spreading compost include leaf mould, which I used to do annually in kitchen gardens, or covering the ground with shredded leaves.
• Cardboard: The soil can be covered with an inorganic layer of materials such as black plastic or old carpet. This will do the job of preventing erosion and smother weeds, but will not benefit the soil. If you want to cover beds, the best option is to use cardboard as it breaks down and can help the soil over time. ‘Cover the garden with cardboard (a great usage for your Amazon boxes) making sure to overlap the layers blocking the sun,’ recommends Troy Smothermon, the founder at StartOrganic. ‘Let the snow or rain soak the cardboard until springtime. Then cut holes in the cardboard to plant your spring veggies.’
• Cover crops: Also known as green manures, cover crops are a simple and successful way to improve the soil over winter. They can be sown in the fall to provide ground cover, control weeds, and add nutrients to benefit soil health. There is a wide selection of cover crops to choose from, including legumes, clover, vetch, and rye. Troy Smothermon advises: ‘Plant fava beans as a cover crop 12" apart throughout the whole garden. These plants will add nitrogen to your soil and help with preparations for Spring with very little care.’ Alternatively, Valeria Nyman, chief product officer at Taim.io, hails ‘hardy species like clover or rye’ as fantastic options for cover crops, adding: ‘Cover crops can increase soil nitrogen levels by as much as 30 pounds per acre, setting the stage for a bounty when the earth awakens.’ See a range of cover crop seeds to sow at True Leaf Market.

4. Protect plants

Even hardy vegetables will benefit from protection ahead of winter, whether from frosts, strong winds, or pests. Frost and snow can damage the leaves of even the hardiest of crops, while birds may be tempted by winter brassicas and other vegetables in search of food.

• Row covers and frost cloths can cover the likes of cabbages, swiss chard, kohlrabi, or winter salad leaves to keep them sheltered from potential damage from the weather and pests
• Tall crops such as Brussels sprouts, kale, and kalettes will benefit from being staked to stop them from being topped by winds. Cutting down the tall stems of Jerusalem artichokes will prevent them from being rocked by the wind and uprooting the tubers
• Citrus trees in containers, along with any other delicate crops or plants in pots, should be moved indoors, into a greenhouse or porch, or protected with covers against the cold, such as these insulated pot protectors from Walmart.

5. Weatherproof irrigation

Finally, Troy Smothermon advises: ‘Weatherproof your irrigation systems by draining them of water. The water freezes in the pipes and expands causing expensive repairs.’

Taking time to winterize a sprinkler system or protect an outside faucet from freezing avoids burst pipes, damaged lines, or broken valves that will often not be obvious until you use the system again next year.

Sprinklers and irrigation systems want to be drained, insulated, and properly shut down for winter. Taps and outside faucets can be protected with covers and any hoses should be drained and stored indoors.

FAQs

Should I cover my empty vegetable garden in winter?

It is always recommended to cover empty vegetable garden beds over winter. It helps prevent soil erosion from winter rain and wind, smothers weeds and raises the soil temperature so you can plant in the beds earlier in spring. The vegetable garden can be covered with organic mulch, such as compost, leaf mold or recycled cardboard, or inorganic mulches like black plastic or old carpet.

As well as vegetable garden beds, it is also important to winterize raised beds that you use for growing crops. Hardy vegetables can overwinter in a raised garden bed, but empty beds want to be covered with mulch. Topping up the bed with compost fixes any gaps as the soil level drops over time and adds nutrients to the soil as it breaks down. Raised beds are also suitable for cover crops, which can be cut down and mixed into the soil in spring.

If you have ever done laundry and noticed a 'soil' setting on your washing machine and then promptly ignored it, you are not alone. This underused feature isn’t exactly self-explanatory – so what does soil mean on a washer?

Luckily, appliance experts are on hand to clue us in and explain how to use this setting to get the most out of every laundry cycle.

This option isn't just about dirt, they say, It can have a huge impact on how your machine handles your clothing – and can even affect which laundry tips you use, too.

What does soil mean on a washer?

Given that there are so many washing machine settings, it is understandable that there are a few we tend to avoid. However, the soil setting could be the most important underutilized feature the best washing machines have to offer.

Glenn Lewis, president at Mr. Appliance, a Neighborly company begins, ‘This setting refers to the feature that can adjust the wash cycle based on how soiled or dirty the clothes are. It also sets the preferred wash time, and rinse cycles for better cleaning results. And yes, using the correct setting does make a difference, he adds,

‘This provides better cleaning results and protects the clothes from wear and tear. It also helps with water and energy usage,’ helping you to save money on laundry.

Light soil setting

When doing laundry normally, your washer is usually on the lowest soil setting begins Lee Gilbert, field service engineer at Ransom Spares.

‘The light soil setting is the lowest setting and normally the default setting. It is designed for lightly soiled or delicate laundry. Some examples would be sports clothing that has only been used once, everyday clothing that has been lightly worn, silk, and wool. Only lightly soiled items should be washed on this setting.

‘When using the light soil setting the cycle will tend to be shorter, normally 30-45 minutes. The water temperature will be lower, usually 85 degrees F (30 degrees C). The motor will agitate less and the spin cycle at the end will be slower, normally 800 rpm.’

Medium soil setting

Lee Gilbert continues, ‘The medium soil setting is designed for regular everyday laundry and clothes with light stains. Generally, cotton and synthetic clothes are worn for a day or two by non-manual workers. This setting will be longer in duration than the light soil setting, usually 60-90 minutes. The temperature of the water will normally be 100-120 degrees F (40-50 degrees C).

‘The motor agitation will be more pronounced and the spin cycle will usually be around 1000 rpm.’

Switching to this setting when dealing with dirtier-than-average clothes is a great laundry hack to save time as you don’t need to wash items again.

Heavy soil setting

Not using the heavy soil setting for very dirty clothes is one of the biggest laundry mistakes you are probably making, concludes Lee Gilbert, service engineer.

‘The heavy soil setting should only be used on laundry that is ‘heavily soiled’. This is designed for laundry that has tough and stubborn stains or has been worn for many days. This setting is the toughest on your clothing.

‘The wash temperature will be upwards of 140 degrees F (60 degrees C), so clothing that is prone to shrinking should not be washed in this setting. The motor agitation will be even more pronounced and the spin cycle tends to be the highest that the motor is set to run at 1200-1600 rpm.’

It is best to avoid using this setting too often, however, as it can wear down your clothes and your machine, shortening their lifespans.

Understanding laundry symbols and a washing machine's soil settings and using them efficiently is one of the many things people who are good at laundry always do to ensure the perfect cycle every time. It might feel daunting to get your head around at first, but it will become second nature with time.

As the first frost of the season draws nearer, gardeners everywhere will be turning their attention to protecting their plants and preparing their yard for the coldest time of the year. In the rush of doing so, you might have neglected an important matter - protecting your soil from freezing temperatures.

It might not be at the top of your to-do list when thinking about how to overwinter a garden, but ensuring there are precautions in place to stop your soil freezing is vital for maintaining soil health. 'When the soil freezes, water is obstructed and unable to travel deep into the root zone of plants and seeds are unable to germinate,' says horticulture expert and founder of Yardwork, Michael Clarke.

Not only this, but freezing temperatures can also affect soil structure. That's why it's important to prevent soil freezing in winter - here's everything you need to know about how to do it.

How to stop soil freezing in winter

It might sound like an impossible task at first and, of course, you might not be able to prevent all the soil in your yard from freezing. It's best to prioritize the areas where you have less hardy plants growing or have recently placed perennial bulbs to plant in fall and other seeds.

'To stop soil freezing you can add a layer of organic matter to garden beds, which does a better job of retaining heat and moisture,' says Michael.

Whether you choose to add homemade compost or rather take up mulching to protect your soil, adding a layer of organic matter provides insulation for your soil, seeds and plant roots.

'Mulching around plants helps retain moisture and heat which will preventing soil from freezing, and you can also cover plants with frost cloth (available at Amazon) to prevent frost forming,' Michael adds.

It's also a good idea to water your plants before a frost. 'Water your soil thoroughly, since wet soil is better at holding heat than dry soil,' Michael advises.

When should you stop soil freezing?

Just like other overwintering tasks, it's best to put your frost precautions in place ahead of freezing temperatures arriving.

'Precautions should be put in place in the mid to late fall before the first signs of frost,' says Michael. 'You can start covering your plants just before sunset on nights when frost is likely,' he adds.

This means keeping an eye on your local weather forecast, as frost dates will differ between US hardiness zones. Give you soil a thorough watering the day before the first night of frost and add your organic matter for insulation ahead of cold temperatures - tasks to make a note of on your fall gardening checklist.

FAQs

What should you do if your soil has frozen?

If your soil has frozen in winter temperatures, it's best to let it thaw naturally rather than force it. You should also avoid watering frozen soil and rather water your plants thoroughly before a frost arrives to lock in moisture. Digging into frozen soil may also damage your tools and can even cause injury.

Putting precautions in place to prevent soil freezing is all part of protecting plants from frost. Make the most of fallen leaves you collect in fall by making leaf mold to use for soil insulation. Alternatively, get to grips with how to make compost so that you have a large supply by the time winter comes around.

Soil is an incredibly changeable material that can vary greatly depending on where you live. The type of soil in your yard will determine the plants that can be grown. Ferns, for example, require moisture-retentive soil, such as you would find in a woodland. Growing a fern in sandy, arid terrains will not result in a happy ending.

Environmental factors can alter the condition of the soil, such as leaching from extensive periods of rain, or desertification from long stints of searing sun. Many of us will face challenges with our soil, and sadly, we cannot all enjoy rich, loamy borders. However, there are many resilient plants, including some of the best perennials and best annual flowers, that can handle poor soils and grow almost anywhere. These tough plants can be relied upon when gardening in challenging circumstances.

As a professional gardener, I have worked with many different soil types. Last summer, for example, when I was based in the Pienza region in southern Tuscany, the soil in much of the garden was gray clay. This heavy, dense soil would turn rock-solid when sun-baked, proving challenging for both gardeners and plants. However, there is always hope. Just think, in the Tuscan countryside, grape vines thrive regardless of this claggy, heavy soil. The trick is planting the right plant for the right place, and choosing species that can handle the quality and condition of your soil.

What is poor soil?

We all have favorite plants. Roses, peonies, delphiniums and hydrangeas - there are many popular flowering plants that it is hard not to fall in love with. However, the challenge for us gardeners is sometimes accepting that we must grow plants not for personal taste, but instead, that are suitable for the soil type we have inherited.

Poor soil is a catchall term applied to any soils that are challenging for plants to thrive in. This could be sandy, rocky, clay-based or otherwise, but generally, all poor soils are lacking in nutrients. Adapting to these conditions might seem limiting, but some of the best plants for poor soil are both beautiful and impactful, and - more importantly - will thrive despite tricky conditions.

1. Yarrow

Yarrow is native to temperate grasslands across the Northern Hemisphere. This plant can often be seen growing alongside highways, testament to its tough nature. If you enjoy prairie-style planting but worry about the quality of your soil, yarrow could be the resilient perennial you need.

Low-maintenance and versatile, yarrow can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 9, typically producing a bounty of flat-topped blooms from June to November.

This plant does best in full sun and is tolerant of most soils, thriving in poor, dry, rocky yards and quickly establishing itself despite challenging conditions. There are many different species and varieties to try, with flower shades including white, yellow, red and pink.

One of my favorites that I have grown is a dark-flowering variety, Achillea millefolium ‘Heidi’, with maroon blooms that fade to pale pink as the season goes on. Just be sure to deadhead yarrow in the summer to maintain the floral show for as long as possible.

Red and pink yarrow starter plants are available from Walmart.

2. Lavender

Looks can be deceiving, and this beautiful aromatic herb actually has a preference for nutrient-poor soils, thriving in dry, rocky, slightly alkaline soils, with a soil pH above 6.5. Native to Mediterranean mountainous regions where it thrives in sunny and stony locations, lavender will grow where other plants struggle.

Considering how to grow lavender, this herb does best in US hardiness zone 5 to zone 10, best positioned in full sun and dry, stony, arid environments. There are many different species and varieties of lavender, and all will grow well in nutrient-poor soil. For this reason, there is no need to fertilize lavender.

'We grow thousands of lavender plants at our nursery in New Mexico,' says Lisa Fontanarosa, a lavender expert and grower based in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

'For an easy-to-grow herb that will thrive in poor soil, lavender has to be the number one plant! We never use pesticides or fertilizer, the lavender plants thrive on their own in dry soil. What's more, lavender attracts bees and other important pollinators, and we love our buzzing bees.'

For rocky, sun-baked yards, try the resilient growing French lavender, Lavendula stoechas, which will thrive in direct sun. French lavender live plants are available from Walmart.

3. Chicory

If you like blue flowers, wild chicory is the plant for you. Chicory, Cichorium intybus, can be grown in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8 and is well-suited to sandy, stony chalk or clay soils that are low in nutrients.

Wild chicory is a familiar sight across much of southern Europe, thriving in wild and dry grasslands and tolerating poor-quality soils. In Italy, pale blue blooms would dazzle in the sunshine, thriving in vineyards and along the roadside. I would often catch flashes of blue when driving through the Tuscan countryside, and it is hard not to be enamored with these unique flowering plants.

Growing up 5 feet tall, wild chicory is a biennial plant, meaning that it will not flower until its second year. However, if you have a wild patch and you enjoy wildflowers, chicory is more than worth the wait, with blue daisy-like blooms that, I think, are rather special when bathed in the evening sun.

Chicory seeds are available from Walmart.

4. Field scabious

Field scabious, Knautia arvensis, is another resilient plant that is typically seen blooming in fields and meadows from midsummer until the first frost. Sometimes referred to as the pincushion flower, for its pincushion-like appearance, field scabious thrives in stony, dry soils, struggling in fertile or moist soils.

'Field scabious is a hardy, low-maintenance annual that can be grown in US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9,' says Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at Homes & Gardens. 'Often considered one of the best plants for pollinators, lilac field scabious blooms will prove popular with any passing bees and butterflies.'

'Thriving in poor soils, field scabious is easy to grow and care for, and in my experience grow incredibly tall stems, which are wonderful for cutting. Simply scatter the seed in the spring, sit back and enjoy the pastel-colored blooms later in the year,' Rachel adds.

'So, if you are worried about soil health in your yard, growing meadow and wildflower plants, like scabious, could be your best bet.'

5. Milkweed

Milkweed is the ultimate native plant for poor soils, thriving in grass meadows, rocky terrains, coastal fronts, or clay-based soils. Growing in US hardiness zones 6 to 10, milkweed is a host plant for monarch butterflies, so if you are wondering how to attract butterflies to your yard, this is the plant to grow.

'Narrow-leaf milkweed, Asclepias fascicularis, is native to much of the Western United States,' says Terry Huang, plant expert and Director of Living Collections at South Coast Botanic Garden in the Los Angeles area.

'We see this species throughout much of California, and it is a remarkably adaptable plant, thriving in dry, sandy soils and heavy, clay soils,' Terry adds. 'It will tolerate cold, freezing conditions when dormant in winter, and grows just fine during periods of drought.'

Swamp milkweed plants are available from Walmart.

6. Daylilies

For reliable, low-maintenance plants, daylilies are hard to beat. Native to Asia, daylilies are not true lilies but belong to the Hemerocallis plant genus. When considering how to grow daylilies, these clump-forming perennials do best in US hardiness zone 4 to 9, and are remarkably resilient, thriving in most soil types.

Their other nickname, ditch lilies, might give you a clue as to how tough these plants really are, growing on grass verges and along roadside ditches in sunny regions across the southern US.

Be warned, however, that some daylilies, such as the orange Hemerocallis fulva, are vigorous perennials, considered by some states to be invasive plants. So, before planting, consult with your local government agency to understand if daylilies should be grown in your yard.

Daylily roots are available from Amazon.

FAQs

How do I find out about the quality of my soil?

If you do not know how nutritious your soil is, or what soil type you have, it is a good idea to invest in some equipment. Soil test kits, available from Amazon, will be able to instantly tell you the pH of your soil as well as the fertility. Knowing this information will help you to understand what can be grown in your yard. For example, if you have dry, nutrient-poor soil with a slightly alkaline reading, sunflowers would be an easy annual to grow to add summer color to the yard.

Whatever the soil, there will always be a plant that can be grown. Opting for hardy, tough and resilient species, as listed here, is a good option when gardening in poor soils, adding color and interest to even the most challenging of yards.

For more information on tough and hardy planting, see our guide to ditch plants. These plants can survive freezing winters and scorching summers, useful in times of fluctuating and erratic weather patterns.

There are many fire hazards to consider during summer - barbeques, festoon lighting, candles and fire pits. We all enjoy entertaining during those long summer evenings, but there are risks to think about during hot and dry weather.

Potting soil might not seem the most obvious fire hazard. Suggesting that soil can go up in flames might even seem silly. However, potting soil is increasingly being labeled as a risk during summer. This is because the potting soil sacks that we all buy from garden stores typically contain flammable materials, such as woodchip, coconut fibers, bark and vermiculite.

So, while you might have pondered the risks of mulch catching fire, potting soil is also something to be aware of. Here, garden experts reveal how potting soil can set ablaze, and the best ways to reduce risks to ensure your summer is safe and carefree.

Can potting soil catch fire?

Potting mixes that we buy online and in garden stores rarely contain high quantities of real earth or sand. Instead, most mixes contain a combination of different ingredients, many of which are flammable, as mentioned above. Fire departments across the US are increasingly concerned about the risks of potting soils, warning that human mistakes and actions can have serious consequences. So, if you are looking for container gardening and potting soil advice, our expert guide has all the information you need for a fire-free summer.

Can potting soil spontaneously combust?

'Fire safety should always be a consideration when gardening or designing landscapes, especially in fire-prone dry regions, such as US hardiness zone 9 and above,' says landscaping and garden expert Sam Niemann.

It is important to stress that fires in the yard are generally not the result of spontaneous combustion, but usually because of human action. Barbeque embers, candles, and lit cigarettes are three common culprits that can easily cause fires during summer.

'When considering fire safety, we should always think about containers,' Sam says. 'Potting soil can contain flammable materials, and when your containers are dry during the summer, there is a risk.'

'While the likelihood of potting soil catching fire on its own is slim to nil, it is important to stress the risk of human action,' Sam adds. 'Using potted plants as ashtrays is one such problem, or placing tealights or candles in dry containers which can cause the potting soil to ignite.'

How to reduce fire risks in the yard

Potting soil can burn, especially if it is organic and made up of mixed materials. While it is extremely unlikely that potting soil in a container or a sack left in the sun would combust, it can catch fire from external sources, such as barbeque embers or lit cigarettes.

The problem is that people sometimes fail to extinguish flames, thereby leaving a fire hazard. Ensuring that any fire is extinguished is crucial.

The best way to 'reduce fire risks with potting soils is to keep flames away,' says garden expert Katie Sunderlage. 'You should never use your pots and containers as an ashtray, as this is extremely dangerous.

'Not only is it unhealthy for the plants' roots, but it could very easily start a fire,' Katie adds. 'Potting soil used in planters often contains shredded wood and possibly fertilizers, which are highly combustible.

'Adding a lit cigarette or placing a tealight or candle in a pot could very easily start a fire. My advice - keep fire away from your containers and away from the potting soil. If you do this, you eliminate the risk.'

For safety, it is always a good idea to have fire safety equipment on hand. Fire extinguishers are available to order online from Amazon, or alternatively, fire blankets are also available from Amazon.

While potting soil will not spontaneously combust, careless actions can quickly result in a blaze. By following these simple guidelines, you can reduce the risk of fire in your container displays and enjoy summer in peace and serenity. For more soil and compost information, see our guide on reusing potting soil.

Ground cover plants are the unsung heroes of the garden. Growing low to the ground, these compact and dense plants will fill gaps and cover bare soil, while also maximizing foliage and flowers in the yard.

As with any planting selection, it is in your best interest to plant species that are suitable for the conditions found in your locality. For example, attempting to grow shade-loving plants in a sun-drenched yard will only ever result in failure. Fortunately for us, many of the best ground cover plants thrive in full-sun positions, able to handle the heat and extended periods of drought.

As a professional gardener, I have grown many ground cover plants in sunny gardens. Most recently, when working on a private estate in Tuscany, silver-foliage ground cover plants were the stars of the show, able to tolerate 40°C/104°F temperatures during long, dry summers. Here, I share a selection of 6 tried and tested ground cover plants that I have grown myself and that I know will thrive in sunny borders.

6 of the best full sun ground cover plants

Any garden border that receives more than six hours of direct sunlight per day is considered a full-sun location. Plenty of sunshine in a yard generally means that you can grow lots of flowering plants, but such conditions do come with challenges. Any full-sun flowering ground cover plants must tolerate direct sun and drought for parts of the spring and summer.

Many of the best drought-tolerant ground cover plants that are suited to sunny spots are listed below, and the following selections are some of my favorites.

1. Lamb's ears

Stachys byzantina, or lamb's ears, is one of the best plants with silver foliage. So named for its wooly, velvety foliage covered in tiny hairs, this plant looks striking when planted along the edge of pathways or through dry, gravel gardens.

When considering how to grow lamb's ears, this hardy plant can be grown in US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10, thriving in sun-soaked yards. Silver foliage is an evolutionary adaptation, helping the plant to reflect sunlight and reduce water loss, meaning that lamb's ears will do just fine when grown in a full-sun situation.

Having grown lamb's ears myself in a garden in Tuscany, I know it can survive both freezing winters and scorching summers. The pale lilac flower spikes are a bonus, but I recommend snipping them to the base after flowering, as the browning, faded blooms can detract from the attractive silver effect.

Lamb's ears starter plants can be bought online from Walmart.

2. Lavender

Lavender is a resilient full-sun plant that can be planted as an evergreen ground cover. 'I love lavender as a patio accent, to soften pathway edges, or planted anywhere in the garden such as under trees,' says Lisa Fontanarosa, a lavender expert and grower based in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

'Lavender will add structure, color and fragrance to beds, borders and containers,' Lisa continues, 'and is a versatile landscaping plant.' This aromatic herb 'thrives in full-sun areas with fast-drying soils and generally requires little water.'

Spanish lavender, Lavandula stoechas, and English lavender, Lavandula angustifolia, are considered two drought-tolerant lavender species that thrive in full sun. 'Don’t plant any thirsty plants or shrubs like hydrangeas with these herbs because lavender is drought-tolerant and doesn’t require a lot of water once established,' Lisa adds.

What's more, there are very few lavender pests and problems to contend with, so this low-maintenance herb thrives with little effort needed.

Lavender plants are available to order online from Burpee.

3. Cistus

Often considered some of the best front yard plants, cistus, or rock roses, are ideal for sun-soaked gardens. I have grown different cistus varieties in two Italian gardens where I have worked as a professional gardener and found them to be drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, able to withstand scorching temperatures in direct sun.

Cistus shrubs are not hardy and should be grown in US hardiness zone 8 to US hardiness zone 10, preferring mild winters and warm summers.

Cistus shrubs produce attractive - if short-lived - blooms, ranging in color from white to yellow to pink. The foliage will remain evergreen in mild regions, so planting a dwarf variety, such as Cistus x skanbergii, is a good option if you are looking for full sun ground cover plants.

Cistus plants are available to buy online from Nature Hills.

4. Dianthus

Dianthus, commonly known as pinks, are striking herbaceous perennials that thrive in sunny yards. If you are seeking pink plants for a summer border, then look no further than dianthus.

'Dianthus grow best in well-drained alkaline soils,' says Susan Betz, herb expert and Honorary Master Gardener. If your soil is neutral or slightly acidic, you can apply garden lime, available from Amazon, to increase alkalinity in your borders.

'With silver foliage and pink flowers, these plants are perfect for rock gardens and sunny spots in the backyard,' Susan adds.

'Varieties like clove pink, Dianthus caryophyllus, would be ideal as a ground cover for full sun,' Susan continues. 'With low growing, silvery-blue foliage, and bright pink flowers that possess a pleasing clove-like fragrance, what more could you ask for.'

Dianthus plants are available to order online from Walmart.

5. Artemisia

Artemisia is renowned for its silvery, fern-like foliage, as can be seen in the image here. Generally, artemisia are low-maintenance plants that are easy to care for. Thanks to their green-gray foliage, these plants can handle high heat and intense sunshine.

Artemisia is a good choice for dry gardens or yards in arid locations as it has a high tolerance for drought. Considered one of the best drought-tolerant flowering perennials, long and hot summers are no threat to this plant.

'Artemisia ludoviciana 'Silver Frost' or Artemisia ludoviciana 'Valerie Finnis' are two garden-worthy cultivars with beautiful silver-white foliage and a compact spreading habit,' says Susan.

'These plants thrive in poor, free-draining soils in full sun situations,' Susan adds. 'They are hardy in US hardiness zones 3 to 8, and make wonderful ground cover plants when placed in the right location.'

Artemisia starter plants are available to order online from Walmart.

6. Juniper

Juniperus horizontalis, otherwise known as the creeping juniper, is a low-growing evergreen shrub that thrives in full sun. This native plant is found growing across much of northern North America. It can be found throughout most of Canada, and in some areas of the United States, thriving in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9.

I grew this low-growing plant in a dry, sunny gravel garden in London several years ago. While creeping juniper does require watering for the first year as it establishes roots, I found that these plants eventually become very self-sufficient and tolerant of dry, hot summers.

Low-growing juniper is a very useful plant for most borders and yards, helping to provide a green covering while allowing other plants to add bright and bold colors, for example, bulbs and full sun perennials should be planted alongside juniper for seasonal interest.

FAQs

Do I need to water ground-cover plants that are in full-sun?

I would recommend watering any ground cover plants that have recently been added to your yard, at least during the first spring and summer. Once established, most plants that can tolerate full sun, including many of the species listed here, will be able to handle drought. The best approach, however, is to monitor the soil and regularly check your plants to see if they are in need of water, for example, if the foliage is wilting.

By incorporating full sun ground cover plants in your yard you can maximize planting and greenery in borders that can be challenging areas. Planting the right plant in the right place will ensure that your sunny garden thrives.

For more information on planting suited to dry, sunny yards, see our guide on some of the best xeriscaping plants, or read up on some of the best flowering shrubs for full sun.

Plant hacks come and go, some tried and tested, others not so much. The latest on the scene is placing pennies in soil to boost nutrients. But how effective is it really?

Soil health is incredibly important for providing plants with nutrients that help them thrive and grow happily. That's why you'll observe plant fertilizers numbers showing how much nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is in plant food to add to your soil.

Copper is certainly among beneficial nutrients for soil and plants, but does putting pennies in soil really work? We've asked experts about this latest trend and they revealed all about whether pennies are good for soil.

Are pennies good for soil?

In short, the answer is no. Although experts recognize the benefits of copper for plant growth, placing pennies in soil is not an effective way to provide plants with nutrients or prevent fungus diseases.

While experts help to debunk this myth, they also share where pennies in the soil can, in fact, be beneficial.

Insufficient levels of copper in pennies

Copper is known to support plants in a number of ways and it is certainly needed to boost soil nutrients. It helps with different plant processes, including producing chlorophyll which is required for photosynthesis and provides foliage with its green color. A copper deficiency in soil can make plants more immune to diseases, cause discoloring and effect growth.

However, experts say that the copper found in pennies is not sufficient enough to make a difference to soil health.

'While there are claims that pennies can slowly release copper into the soil and act as a natural fertilizer, I have not found any evidence to support this notion,' says Autumn Janus, plant expert from Perfect Plants.

'Modern pennies are made of copper-plated zinc, and the copper content in a single penny is fairly small,' she adds.

As a result, experts say it would take a very long time for pennies to make any difference in the amount of copper in soil. 'You would have to leave pennies in soil probably indefinitely, since there is such little copper in them,' says Julie Bawden-Davis, indoor plant expert at Healthy Houseplants.

Although, if you're looking for slug control methods, pennies might just be the trick.

'Copper serves as an effective deterrent for slugs, they feel a small shock when their skin contacts copper,' says Autumn. 'If you have older pennies with a higher copper content, you can partially bury them around the edges of your garden to create a barrier that may prevent slugs from entering,' she suggests.

Take care to not solely rely on this method, however, as planting slug repellent plants tends to be be much more effective.

Improve the soil health in your yard

FAQs

How can I add copper to soil?

Copper is an essential micronutrient in soil that aids overall plant growth and health. A lack of copper in soil can lead to plants being more susceptible to diseases, a lack of chlorophyll production and a lack of growth. You can add copper to soil in a number of ways. This includes adding organic matter that is rich in copper to your soil and using copper-based fertilizers.

Adding pennies to soil might just be another one of those plant hacks that doesn't work too well in practice. While it's true that copper is an excellent resource for plants, it's unlikely that placing pennies in soil will make a substantial difference to overall soil health.

If you're looking for more DIY solutions to improve the quality of your soil, read what experts have to say about if coffee grounds are good for plants and discover some unusual compost ingredients that you might have lying around.

Knowing the best flood resilient plants for your yard can save you time, cash and heart ache, especially if your location is low lying. Owing to climate change and increasing urban development, weather patterns are becoming more unpredictable, with more homes being subjected to sudden downpours and prolonged heavy rainfall. 

Many of our favorite plants simply cannot cope with their roots sitting in water. Instead they will quickly suffocate and rot away, leaving gaping holes in our carefully tended borders and containers. To help manage this excess of surface water, it is vital to choose plants that can help to stabilise the soil and thrive in waterlogged conditions. 

Understanding how to make your yard flood resilient, is essential to future proofing your garden, so we spoke to experts, including landscape designers, horticulturalists and industry professionals, for their top plant recommendations.

12 of the best flood-resilient plants for your backyard

If you are experiencing persistently heavier rainfall than in years gone by, all is not lost - it's just about learning how to adapt your garden. These plants love to be in or near to water, and thrive in boggier conditions. 

1. Astilbe

Mainstays of many bog gardens and poolsides, astilbes are instantly recognised for their vibrant plume-like blooms. 

In shades of white, pink or red, these airy flowers appear during summer and are set atop upright, slender stems varying from 1ft (30cm) to 4ft (120cm) tall. Ideal for brightening up shady locations these perennials thrive in rich, damp soil.

Clump forming, astilbes are best divided every four years. A task best carried out during spring, before flowering, they are relatively simple to split and can be replanted with ease.

2. Cinnamon Fern

Easy to look after, happy in exposed and sheltered locations and – above all – dramatic, this deciduous fern is brilliant for adding height and form under trees, shrubs or in plant-packed borders. 

Deeply cut, blue-green fronds grow up to 4-5ft (1.5m) each summer and radiate shuttlecock style around central rich-brown plumes.

Like the majority of shade loving ferns, these cinnamon ferns - available from Nature Hills- adore wet, rich soils, making them perfect for waterlogged spots. They look their best if old, tired foliage is cut away each winter.

3. Amsonia

Also know as bluestars, this perennial is an underrated gem. 

'This is my favourite plant ever. With gorgeous blue flowers in shades from ice to dark, appearing in late spring- early summer they look even more spectacular set against the vibrant needle and arrow-like foliage,' Irene Kalina-Jones is a partner at Outside Space NYC. 'Makes a great falling clump and the leaves turn a brilliant orange yellow in the fall.'

Reaching heights of around 19 inches (50cm), they prefer a spot in light shade to full sun and create a great contrast to other grasses and larger leaved damp loving plants such iris, as marsh marigold and candelabra primula.

Amsonia illustris is well worth looking out for, with it’s almost black, straight stems and fine starry blooms, while Amsonia ‘blue ice’ has a cloud-like mass of deep blue flowers.

4. Carex

They’re perfect for adding texture and movement to a pot or border – but did you know carex are flood tolerant too. 

Commonly known as sedge, there are over 2,000 types of this tough, native grass and they come in all shades of blue-grey, dark green through to bronze, purplish and cream-green. Easy to tell apart from other grasses, the blades of carex have a triangular cross-section with sharp edges, rather than being smooth, round and hollow.

'Carex has a grass-like appearance can tolerate shade and sun,' says Irene Kalina-Jones. 'It’s also a great replacement for Japanese forest grass in shade and can work for many different looks.'

Varieties that particularly love having wet feet include Carex grayi - available at Nature Hills – with its distinctive spiky green seedheads, lush green Carex muskingumensis (aka Muskingum sedge) and Carex secta with its lime fountain-like clumps tinged with brown.

5. Creeping Jenny

Add a dash of sunshine to woodland gardens, shady paths or stone walls with this evergreen ground lover. 

Creeping Jenny is smothered in tiny yet vibrant lime leaves. The long stems will wind their way through cracks and crevices quickly forming a dense mat of foliage that’s crowned with golden cup-shaped flowers from July to August. 

Reaching just 4 inches (10cm) high, it’s mat-like growth creates a brilliant habitat for beneficial insects and can happily cope with sudden downpours and waterlogged conditions.

Although it needs little upkeep to thrive, you can snip off older stems in fall to encourage fresh growth next spring and a neater shape.

6. Lady's Smock

Charmingly known as the cuckoo flower, mayflower and milkmaids, Cardamine pratensis (to give it it’s botanical name) bears delicate, pale lilac flowers on slender, upright stems. 

Standing 19 inches (50cm) tall, these undemanding plants adore damp, low-lying or waterlogged areas and can be found around pond margins and riversides.

Rich in nectar, this perennial plant is a favorite food source for bees, moths and butterflies, so the perfect choice when creating a wildlife pond or garden. The dark, ground hugging leaves are rather discreet, making the flowers seem even more magical as they appear to float in the air.

7. Water mint

Fast growing and reliably tough – like the rest of the mentha family – water mint is a great flower choice for areas that are prone to flash floods or sudden saturation. One of the best water garden plants, their vigorous mass of creeping stems forms a dense, mat-like structure which helps to anchor the deliciously aromatic crinkled foliage topped with soft, tufty lilac flowerheads.

Flowering mid-summer, from July-August, the mass of nectar-rich blooms are magnets for pollinators and also provide essential shade and shelter for wildlife around pond edges. Keep this vigorous beauty under control by regularly cutting back straying stems. All growth will die back in fall before reappearing next spring.

Hardy in USDA zones 8-11, this creeping plant will reach heights of 12-24 inches (30-60cm) and spread around 3.2ft (1m).

8. Camassia

Love the easy going nature of bulbs but have a flood prone plot? Then camassia or wild hyacinths are a nifty choice. Unlike many other flower bulbs, these starry flower spires can tolerate moist soil to a point but will rot if left in waterlogged conditions. 

Flowering April to June, the purple-blue or white blooms look stunning planted in large groups, nestled amongst long grass amidst other grassland beauties such as cowslips, campion and slightly more ornate alliums.

A spherical bulb, these plants are best planted in fall at a depth of around 5 inches (12cm) and 9 inches (23cm) deep. 

Fascinating varieties to look out for include Camassia leichtlinii 'Sacajawea' with it's slight larger cream flowers and cream edged leaves, plus the shorter Camassia quamash with it's dark blue blooms.

9. Ninebark

A tough deciduous shrub, Physocarpus opulifolius 'Diabolo' needs little attention and copes well with a wide range of conditions from full sun to part shade. Fairly tolerant of waterlogged soil - it's a wise choice for areas that receive occasional flooding or heavy rainfall - but generally this beauty prefers to sink its roots into damp, humus rich acidic soil. 

'Diablo' is a striking cultivar with its rose-white summer blooms standing out against the inky, deep purple foliage. 

Perfect for growing in the middle of a border or showcased in a large container, it looks particularly stunning in winter when the bare stems and peeling bark are revealed. The clustered flowers are succeeded by glossy red seedheads in fall.

10. Buttonbush

Happiest in wet or boggy conditions rather than dry soil, this Native American is a super stylish choice for tricky locations.

Buttonbush - Cephalanthus occidentalis - is a North American shrub that thrives in wet soils and exhibits exceptional tolerance for flooding. Its natural adaptation to wetland conditions allows it to survive periods of inundation, making it a valuable addition to flood-prone gardens. 

Hardy in USDA zones 5-10, this deciduous shrub reaches 3-4ft (90-121cm) tall and puts on a spectacular show in fall with its burgundy tones.

11. Pittosporum tobira

Pittosporum tobira - also known as Japanese pittosporum - is a fabulous shrub boasting dense leathery leaves and clusters of cream fragrant flowers in late spring. Ideal for planting solo in containers or for grounding a border, they will add structure year round but some varieties can be more robust than others.

‘Finding flood resistant plants is tricky enough, but for gardeners living near the coast, salt water adds an entirely new level of complexity when heavy storms or hurricanes cause flooding,’ says Linda Vater, garden expert for Southern Living Plant Collection. 

‘Luckily, the dense and dazzling Mojo Pittosporum can tackle these tough conditions with its superior salt tolerance. With variegated foliage in hues of emerald and light yellow-green, this dwarf evergreen makes an attractive hedge or foundation planting, reaching 3’ high and wide when mature.’ 

This shrub thrives in USDA zones 7-10 in partial sun to shade conditions.

12. Hemerocallis

With showy golden blooms that, collectively, last for months on end, this sun-loving perennial is a top performer but is also surprisingly tolerant of changing conditions.

'This evergreen version of Stella de Oro daylily can handle drought as well as flood conditions, making it the perfect pick for tricky spots with poor drainage that could benefit from bountiful blooms and grassy green foliage,' says Linda Vater. 

'Offering four seasons of color with its evergreen foliage and reblooming golden trumpet flowers, this low-maintenance bloom brings the added benefits of erosion control and attracting pollinators.'

Hardy in zones 4-10 in full sun conditions, these blooms reaches 10-12” high and wide when mature.

FAQs

Which plants are good for flood prone areas?

Some plants are better at coping with changing climates than others, and when it comes to dealing with occasional flooding it's worth knowing exactly which these are so you can plant accordingly.

Trees such as Amelanchier, Black Elder, Swamp cypress and Sweetgum positively thrive on having wet roots and will add height and drama to any garden. Dogwood, with it's spectrum of colorful stems is surprisingly happy in boggy areas while flowering perennials such as geum, camassia and feathery astilbe also add a dash of charm.

Future proofing your planting to cope with unpredictable rainfall is a wise move and entirely possible to do without completely compromising your garden design. There are many stunning, and readily adapted plants to choose from, including delicate bog garden blooms, tactile grasses to robust shrubs and trees. If you are inspired to plan ahead, its worth exploring these drought planting ideas for borders and pots. 

Raised beds offer a fantastic way to grow flowers and food at home and can be ideal low-maintenance features in any garden. No matter the size or material you choose for the bed, the long-term success of any raised bed will depend on the health of the soil inside.

The dream for any raised bed ideas is lots of flowers and bumper harvests of delicious homegrown vegetables. To keep that dream alive, fertilizing the soil annually is a key way to keep plants in any raised bed happy.

How often you fertilize a raised bed, and what you feed it with, will vary depending on the plants and the products. However, there are some good rules to follow to keep the soil in any raised beds healthy year after year.

Do I need to fertilize my raised garden bed?

You need to fertilize raised garden beds to manage the soil health as plants will use up the nutrients over time - and that soil will need rejuvenation. I have grown vegetables, flowers, and herbs in raised beds over my years as a professional kitchen gardener and have sought advice from two experts to reveal when you should be feeding beds, along with some pointers on the best fertilizers to use.

When to fertilize raised beds

Raised beds typically benefit from feeding on more than one occasion throughout a growing season. Whether you are growing flowers, vegetables, fruit, or herbs, in the raised bed an addition of nutrients over the year helps keep plants healthy and productive.

Before commencing any fertilizing each year, it is recommended to do a soil test to see the current nutrient makeup of the soil. An excess of certain nutrients can cause issues while a test will also highlight deficiencies of others to help you choose the right products for feeding.

The first window to feed comes in spring. Adding organic matter, such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold, into the existing soil will improve the structure, fertility, and moisture retention. This organic matter can be mixed into the soil, or added to the surface as part of no-dig gardening or lasagna gardening principles.

Any time you plant vegetables, flowers, herbs, or shrubs into the raised bed, it is good practice to add slow-release balanced fertilizer. Such a balanced feed contains important nutrients required to develop shoots and roots to help plants establish into the bed.

It is also beneficial to regularly feed plants during the prime growing season, especially if you are growing flowers, vegetables, or herbs. This routine will start in late spring and run through to early fall, depending on the plant.

How often to fertilize a raised bed garden

The number of times you feed a raised bed garden will depend on the plants you are growing and the products you are using.

Adding extra nutrients at least once a year is a prerequisite. Fertilizing in spring is vital to help replenish the goodness in the soil and give plants access to nutrients when they start growing for the year. Not fertilizing in spring would be regarded as a raised bed gardening mistake and plants can suffer from a lack of fertility as the soil health suffers.

Dan Allen, a master gardener for Farmscape, admits that the need for regular additional fertilizers can depend on how the soil was amended at the start of the season.

‘Raised beds that have been amended thoroughly with a good compost can succeed without additional fertilizers,’ he says. ‘Although it doesn't hurt to apply fertilizers as long as you're applying them according to the label and at the right point of the growing season.’

Feeds can either be granular or liquid and the type you opt for will impact how regularly the raised bed garden needs to be fed throughout the year.

Granular fertilizers are slow-release and can be used anywhere from once per month to once per season. Liquid feeds tend to be higher in nutrients but leach quickly and therefore need to be applied more regularly. Such liquid fertilizers are suited to flowering and fruiting plants and are added when you water plants every few weeks through the season.

What is the best fertilizer for a raised bed?

There are lots of choices when it comes to fertilizers. Along with granular and liquid types, there is also the decision between organic and inorganic feeds.

Organic options are made from animal or plant sources, while inorganic feeds are synthetic products made from processed chemicals. There are pros and cons to each - for example, organic feeds develop the overall soil health, while inorganic types tend to be higher in nutrients - and the choice will come down to cost and your personal gardening preferences.

You want a balanced fertilizer to feed beds in spring, one with equal levels of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The ratio of nutrients in any product will be shown as plant fertilizer numbers on the packaging, for example, a balanced fertilizer will display a ratio like 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. Such a balanced feed can either be a slow-release granular fertilizer - which can be either organic or synthetic - or organic matter.

Sarah Warner, greenhouse manager at Case Western Reserve University, claims that the best fertilizer for a raised bed is compost. She says: ‘Not only is it a fertilizer but it is also a soil amendment and can add organic matter into the soil, enhance soil structure, soil fertility, and soil tilth.’

‘Worm castings are a great way to fertilize plants as well! This can be purchased from a local worm farm, depending on your area. Lightly raking it into the garden bed is a great way to add it.’ adds Sarah. As well as buying worm castings, you could also make your own by making a wormery for compost to make fantastic nutrient-rich compost from your kitchen waste.

A good liquid feed for feeding flowers and vegetables in summer will be high in phosphorus and potassium - the nutrients that promote flowering and fruiting. Such a product will usually be designed to be used when growing tomatoes. There is the option to make a natural plant fertilizer at home by using comfrey to make comfrey fertilizer.

Whatever feed you use, always apply it at the recommended rate. It is possible to over-fertilize plants and there can be a tendency to apply more fertilizer to raised beds than you would give plants in the ground - but this can only cause issues.

Fertilizers for raised beds

FAQs

How often do you change the soil in a raised bed?

If you are managing the soil successfully you should not need to change the soil in a raised bed, ever. Annually adding organic matter and amending the soil before each growing season should continually replenish the soil year after year. Other successful ways to keep the soil healthy include mulching the bed and planting cover crops or green manures over the winter.

An advantage of raised beds is that you can control the growing medium, so choose the best materials to fill a raised garden bed. The amount required will depend on the height of the raised bed, but ideally, a mix should be 30-50% compost mixed with topsoil and sand or grit for drainage.

We all know proper watering and sufficient light are key for houseplant happiness. But, the soil you put them in is also important. The wrong type can lead your indoor plants to develop unhealthy roots and struggle to flourish, so it shouldn't be overlooked.

According to Kiersten Rankel, an expert from plant-care app Greg, an ideal potting mix holds onto just enough water to keep your plants hydrated, but not so much that their roots drown. 'It will also have plenty of air pockets, so your plants' roots can breathe easy,' she says. 

The good news is there are plenty of commercial mixes available, and it's also possible to make your own blend.

How to make your own houseplant potting mix

To make your own basic potting soil for indoor plants, Kiersten recommends combining one-third coco coir to retain moisture, one-third perlite or vermiculite to speed up drainage, and one-third store-bought potting soil or compost for nutrition. 'You can always adjust the ratios based on what your specific plants prefer – think of it like tweaking a recipe to suit your taste,' she says.

For instance, desert plants like succulents and cacti need a mix that's extra chunky and quick-draining, Kiersten continues. In these instances, aim for a blend that's mostly perlite (or you can use pumice or coarse sand), with a smaller amount of organic matter mixed in. 'This will help prevent their roots from sitting in water and rotting.

'On the flip side, tropicals like ferns and carnivorous plants are total moisture-lovers,' she continues. 'They prefer a potting mix that stays evenly damp, similar to the environments they call home.' For these thirsty plants, you can use a bit more coco coir in your mix, she says. 

Top tip: Holly Mixon, the owner of Itty Bitty Trees, says adding a little beneficial mycorrhizal fungi to the potting mix can help with houseplant establishment and nutrient uptake.

Anastasia Borisevich of Plantum notes that while orchids and bromeliads are tropical inhabitants, they’re also epiphytes, which means they need a well-draining growing medium rather than a dense and fertile one. For these types of plants, she recommends combining equal parts pine bark and coconut coir, with a smaller amount of perlite.

Whatever types of houseplants you're growing, it's crucial to stick to proper watering practices and use suitable containers. 'Even the perfect growing medium can get soggy without proper drainage,' Anastasia says. 'Choose pots with drainage holes so that excess water can escape into a saucer, preventing waterlogging and root rot.'

Shopping for pre-made potting soil

Buying pre-made potting soil for houseplants is often more convenient than making your own. Look for ones designed for indoor use. A well-rated example is the indoor plant soil from Perfect Plants Nursery at Amazon, which includes perlite for good drainage.

Mixes designed for specific types of plants are also available, such as the Wonder Soil cactus and succulent potting mix from Amazon, or the Better-Gro mix for orchids.

Holly highlights how sustainability is a big seller for her when selecting a commercial mix. 'Coconut coir is a great replacement for peat moss, as peat is a non-renewable resource,' she says. If you can, purchasing locally-made soil is also a good option, she adds. 

FAQs

Should you add fertilizer to houseplant soil?

When fresh, houseplant potting soil will have a good amount of nutrients to keep your plants happy – at least for a while. Over time, these will deplete, so it's worth giving your plant pals a top-up with fertilizer during the growing season. A popular example is the Easy Peasy liquid all-purpose indoor plant food, available from Amazon.

Be cautious when using fertilizer pellets, which often look like small colorful balls, around pets and small children, notes Anastasia. They can cause severe poisoning when ingested, she warns.

Can you reuse houseplant potting soil?

While using a fresh potting mix is ideal when repotting houseplants, it's also possible to revive an old mix by breaking it up with a trowel and adding in some plant food. 

If, however, you had a diseased plant previously in the potting soil, or one that suffered from houseplant pests, it's best not to reuse it for other plants. Otherwise, you may spread the problem.

Did you know it's also possible to grow houseplants without soil – for example, with hydroponic gardening? Alternatively, you could opt to grow air plants, which can be displayed in all sorts of creative ways. 

Growing without soil has been tipped as the future of indoor gardening, with many considering hydroponic growing for sustainability reasons. Indeed, hydroponic growing offers an environmentally-friendly and space-efficient way to grow crops indoors. 

Today, more people reside in urban areas than not, and with space at a premium, the novel approach of growing your food hydroponically is certainly something to consider. This innovative method allows plants to grow in a controlled environment, with their roots directly submerged or periodically flooded with a nutrient-rich solution. 

Hydroponic gardening has today become far more accessible, with many indoor growing systems now readily available, with both deluxe and cost-effective options to consider. Thankfully, this means that anyone interested in indoor garden ideas, regardless of apartment size, can hydroponically grow delicious herbs, salads and fruit. Here, we weigh up the pros and cons of hydroponic gardening, providing you with all the information you need. 

The pros and cons of hydroponic gardening

Hydroponic growing is an innovative and sustainable method of cultivating your food in small spaces at home. While this trend looks set to dominate indoor gardening for the years to come, we weigh up some of the pros and cons of hydroponic gardening, providing you with all the information you need to try this approach this year. 

Advantages to hydroponic growing

One of the most obvious benefits of using a hydroponic system is space efficiency, allowing even those with small apartments to grow crops. Many hydroponic growing systems, such as Gardyn's new 4.0 model as seen here, have an attractive vertical design, helping to maximize growing space in the home. For anyone interested in living wall ideas, this is an effective option to consider. 

Year-round production is another clear benefit to hydroponic growing, with clever indoor designs that feature LED grow lights allowing for cultivation regardless of your US hardiness zones, time of year, or climate. 

In addition, hydroponic systems use less water than traditional soil-based gardening, reducing the resource intensity of your indoor garden. This is important to many gardeners who are keen to garden in as sustainable a way as possible. 

Compared to gardening outside, hydroponic systems, including Gardyn models, 'use 95% less water by recirculating water and plant nutrients at very precise times, depending on the growth stage of your plants,' says Lindsay Springer, plant expert and Head of Plants and Nutrition for Gardyn. 

Finally, pesticide and herbicide usage is minimized when growing indoors using hydroponic systems. 'By growing indoors, away from the weeds, bugs, and plant pathogens, you eliminate the need for herbicides and pesticides,' continues Lindsay. 'Since plants are less stressed in controlled indoor environments, they also tend to grow healthier and faster than outdoors as well.' 

Gardyn sprout nursery for hydroponic gardening in small spaces

One hydroponic growing system that we at Homes & Gardens love combines design with functionality. The Gardyn sprout nursery, available here and seen in the image above, is perfect for those with limited space or those looking for a growing system for beginners. 

Ideal for growing some of the best microgreens, including radish and pea shoots, the Gardyn sprout nursery boosts germination speed and success so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor in record time. 

The sprout nursery is smartly designed, taking up minimal space on your countertop. It can grow a variety of fresh microgreens and sprouts, which can be a nutritious addition to your suppers in the weeks and months ahead.

This growing system helpfully holds up to 10 plant yCubes, available from Gardyn, and the removable interior tray has visible water level lines, making water refilling and cleaning a simple process. The Gardyn sprout nursery is suitable for any skill level but is a great stepping stone for those looking to grow hydroponically for the first time. So, why not give it a go this year, and enjoy delicious and healthy microgreens in record time? 

Drawbacks of hydroponic growing

Undoubtedly hydroponic cultivation is a sustainable and innovative approach that allows people in cities to grow their food. However, certain factors should be considered before any gardener jumps into the world of hydroponics. 

Firstly, hydroponic growing requires a basic understanding of nutrient solutions, pH levels and system maintenance. Importantly, this will vary between different growing systems and certain growing systems will be simpler to use and maintain than others.

In addition, most indoor hydroponic systems require electricity for water pumps and LED lights. While many growing systems are incredibly energy efficient, using very low levels of energy, this should still be a consideration, particularly at a time when energy bills remain high. If possible, source a hydroponic growing system from a trusted retailer with the assurance that it is energy efficient. 

Finally, while hydroponic growing enables gardeners to harvest edible crops all year round, the species and varieties that can be grown are limited. Some plants, for example, root vegetables including potatoes and onions, are not suitable for hydroponic systems due to specific growing needs. While it is still a remarkable feat to grow your herbs, salads and flowers indoors all year round, it is important to remember you cannot grow everything and anything. 

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FAQs

What hydroponic growing system is recommended for beginners? 

While most hydroponic growing systems will come with instructions that are easy to follow, beginners should consider using a microgreens growing system, such as this model available from Gardyn. Stylish and compact, this model will fit neatly on your kitchen countertop. All you need to do is follow a few simple steps and harvest your microgreens in as few as 7 days. 

Hydroponic gardening can offer numerous benefits to those who have limited space but are keen to grow crops at home. Many hydroponic growing systems are water and energy efficient, while also enabling fast growth and year-round production. 

However, maintenance and technical know-how should be considered by those prospective hydroponic growers. Understanding the pros and cons of this approach can help you make informed decisions about your indoor gardening practices. 

While you decide on which hydroponic growing system is right for you, consider growing microgreens in a small pot or jar at home. For example, why not grow amaranth as a microgreen and you can enjoy delicious crimson sprouts in no time at all?

Container gardening is one of the best ways to bring a patio or balcony to life. But before you plant flowers and foliage into your favorite pots, there’s a fundamental step you’ll need to get right.

Just like when growing in garden borders, the type of soil you use can affect the performance of your container plants. Amy Enfield, senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro says, ‘Potting mixes used in container gardening are light, fluffy, and formulated to provide the right balance of air spaces, drainage, and water holding for your plants to thrive.’

Conveniently, there are plenty of pre-made potting soil mixes available. It’s also possible to make your own. So, if you're exploring container gardening for beginners, these are our top tips for choosing the best soil.

Buying pre-made soil mixes for container gardening

Using a bag of pre-blended soil bought from a store is a quick and easy way to pot up plants. ‘Look for bags that specifically call out “potting” or “for use with containers”,’ says Amy.

These mixes are usually a blend of sphagnum peat moss, aged bark fines, perlite, and a slow-release fertilizer, Amy explains. ‘Some mixes may also contain coir, wood fiber, sand, pumice, and sometimes compost.’

These different elements provide a variety of properties to the mix. For instance, perlite is great for improving drainage and aeration, which encourages healthy roots in your potted plants. 

‘Potting mixes containing some compost are ideal for outdoor containers, particularly larger containers (10 inches or greater),’ says Amy. ‘It provides a little extra weight to the container.’

How to make your own soil mix for container gardening

‘While purchasing a ready-made potting mix from your local garden center is easiest, sometimes you may want to create your own soil blend,’ says Amy. ‘You may also decide to further enhance the drainage of pre-blended, ready-made potting mixes, depending on what you’re growing.'

The most basic potting mix is a 50/50 blend of sphagnum peat moss and perlite, she says. 'If you want a mix that has more drainage, you may add additional perlite, pumice, sand, or aged bark fines. If you want a mix that holds more moisture, you may replace some of the peat moss with coir.’

Anna Ohler, the owner of Bright Lane Gardens nursery, says, 'Depending on your plants' needs, you may want to add a slow-release fertilizer to your soil mix to provide nutrients over time.' However, if you are potting up a bare root plant or a very young plant, you will not want to use fertilizer right away, she warns. 'My general rule of thumb is to wait until plants have several sets of leaves before adding any fertilizer. Doing so sooner may result in burning the roots of your plant.'

Juan Palacio, the CEO of BloomsyBox, also notes how different plants have different requirements in terms of pH. 'For instance, acid-loving plants like azaleas and blueberries require soil with a lower pH, which can be achieved by adding sulfur,' he says. Alternatively, you could use a specifically formulated potting mix for acid-loving plants, he adds.

Top tip: Anna recommends using coco coir instead of peat moss. It is a very similar additive yet more climate friendly, she says, making it suited for sustainable gardening. 

FAQs

What potting soil should you use for houseplants?

Many pre-blended potting mixes are suitable for both outdoor and indoor plants, but double-check the label. Some houseplants, however, may benefit from a few amendments, such as an extra handful of perlite or grit. This can be helpful when growing succulents, for instance – they need very good drainage, otherwise they’re susceptible to root rot. 

‘Tropical plants grown indoors also benefit from additional drainage, so their roots don’t become waterlogged,’ says Amy. The Miracle-Gro® Tropical Potting Mix, available from Amazon, includes lava rock for added drainage. The benefit of lava rocks (or pumice) over, say, aged bark fines, is that lava rock does not attract fungus gnats like bark fines can, she explains.

There are also mixes that are specifically formulated for different varieties of houseplants, such as this orchid potting mix from Leaves and Soul at Amazon.

Alternatively, you can grow some houseplants without soil, by using water instead.

What type of soil should you avoid in pots?

Even though it may seem like an easy solution, don’t be tempted to use garden soil in your containers. Amy warns that it is too heavy and dense and becomes compacted. 

‘Along the same lines, ready-made soil blends that are labeled for “in-ground use”, “garden soil”, or “raised bed soil” are also not formulated for use in containers.’

Choosing the best soil for container gardening isn't the only factor you'll need to consider – watering your pots correctly is also important. There are some common container gardening mistakes worth bearing in mind, too.

Does cinnamon help remove mold from soil? In short, yes. Cinnamon, with its natural fungicidal properties, can indeed play a significant role in preventing and removing mold from soil. It acts by disrupting the membrane integrity of the mold fungus, effectively eliminating it without harming the plants.

‘Mold is never a good sign as mold or fungus is associated with rot and unhealthy soil,’ says Alexander Testel, founder of Frugal Frontier. ‘Sometimes a white material or layer forms on the surface of the soil, the soil naturally has some mold present but an excessive amount can indicate root rot or soil not getting enough water or sunlight.’

Beyond mold removal, cinnamon's application in gardening doesn't end there. It can be used to support seedling growth by protecting young plants from common fungal infections, promoting a healthier start in life for various plant species – so if you haven't tried using cinnamon to remove mold from soil, why not give it a go?

How do you use cinnamon to remove mold from soil?

If the mold on your soil is localized to a small spot, you can simply scoop it out, but if it's on quite a large area, cinnamon can be lightly sprinkled on the soil until the mold or fungus is gone. 

According to gardening expert Diana Cox, it is safe to use cinnamon powder, such as Frontier’s Organic Cinnamon from Amazon, around children, pets, and beneficial insects because it is non-toxic and environmentally friendly, unlike chemical fungicides. You can easily control soil fungus with cinnamon powder, which is an inexpensive alternative that doesn't sacrifice effectiveness. 

However, remember to use cinnamon sparingly, as having too much of it on your soil can disrupt the natural balance of microorganisms, and cause more harm than good.

What other benefits does cinnamon provide soil?

In addition to its potential antifungal properties, cinnamon can also provide some benefits to soil health. It contains compounds that can help improve soil structure and promote microbial activity; essential for nutrient cycling and plant health. 

Furthermore, cinnamon may act as a natural deterrent for pests; ideal for slug control and getting rid of snails, which can be beneficial for maintaining a healthy garden environment. While cinnamon can be used as a part of an overall soil management strategy, plant expert Autumn Hilliard-Knapp recommends addressing underlying issues such as overwatering, poor drainage, or inadequate air circulation, which can contribute to mold growth in the first place.

FAQs

What is the best natural fungus killer?

Aside from cinnamon, there are a number of natural substances that kill mold and other fungi. Organic neem oil from Amazon is a great alternative. Its effectiveness against mold infestations makes it a go-to solution when dealing with stubborn fungal issues.

Cinnamon is indeed a natural fungicide that can help in the fight against mold in soil. Its antifungal properties make it effective in suppressing mold growth without harming the plants. When applied to soil, cinnamon can help prevent the spread of mold by targeting the fungal spores directly.

This not only helps maintain the health of the soil, but also ensures that the plants can thrive in a mold-free environment. However, it's important to use cinnamon sparingly as excessive amounts can potentially harm the plants you're trying to protect.

We explore more ways you can use cinnamon to prevent mold in our dedicated feature.

Using sand instead of soil in the garden may sound a little strange. However, it can offer a range of benefits for both you and your plants. When executed well, this interesting approach can lead to a thriving and more eco-friendly garden. Its success has been notably demonstrated by gardener Peter Korn and his partner Julia Andersson at Klinta Trädgård in Sweden, which includes a nursery where everything is grown in sand.

Petar Ivanov, a gardening expert from Fantastic Gardeners, is an advocate for the idea. He highlights how growing in sand enhances the robustness of plants, as well as minimizing the need for extensive maintenance. This is ideal if you're short on time for watering and other outdoor tasks, and a big plus point in the face of changing climate patterns. 

Not only this, but using sand as a planting medium can result in enhanced drainage, says Juan Palacio, the CEO of BloomsyBox. This reduces the risk of root rot and other moisture-related diseases. Sand also heats up quicker than soil in the spring, he adds, which can extend the growing season for some plants.

How to use sand in your garden

Gardening in raised beds filled with sand can be an effective way to experiment with this idea. According to the Fantastic Gardeners team, the roots of your plants should be washed to remove any soil before being planted in sand. They should then be watered in well.

For a slightly less radical approach, consider Juan's recommendation of mixing sand with organic matter, such as compost. This will improve its water retention and nutrient content, which is naturally low. 'A ratio of about 30% sand to 70% organic matter can offer a balanced medium for your plants,' he says.

David Whitwam, the owner of Whitwam Organics, follows this latter approach when growing fruits or veggies. 'In fact, the raised bed garden soil that we make and sell is about 30 to 40% sand,' he says.

'Additionally, mulching the surface with organic material can help retain moisture and add nutrients over time,' Juan adds.

Types of plants to grow in sand

It's wise to choose suitable plant varieties when using sand in your garden. Try drought-tolerant plants hailing from hot climes. Think varieties of ornamental grasses, annual flowers such as poppies, and others that can handle less fertile soils. David notes that their soil down in Florida is mostly sand, and a lot of native plants actually prefer it.

Juan says, 'Succulents, cacti, and certain herbs like lavender and rosemary are excellent choices. These plants have evolved to excel in conditions where water is scarce and drainage is high, making them perfect for sandy substrates.'

A variety of lavender plants are available to buy from Burpee. The 'Firecracker' sedum from Burpee is a great option, too, with its beautiful pink blooms and red foliage. 

If you like the idea of tending to a vegetable garden, some crops are worth considering for this approach. According to Juan, carrots, radishes, and potatoes can perform well in sandy conditions due to the loose structure, allowing for easier root expansion.

FAQs

What is the best type of sand to use for gardening?

'The best type of sand for gardening purposes is coarse sand,' says Juan Palacio, the CEO of BloomsyBox. 'This variety ensures better drainage and aeration compared to finer sands, which are more prone to compaction, thus hindering root growth and water movement.'

Can you grow houseplants in sand?

If you're interested in growing houseplants without soil, you could consider opting for sand. It's a good choice for indoor succulents and other varieties that thrive with less moisture. However, note that you will need to add fertilizer when watering, to provide essential nutrients.

Raising plants in sand is well-suited for drought-tolerant gardening. If you're looking for more inspiration, you might like our tips on xeriscaping, too.

Growing houseplant cuttings in water for propagation may sound familiar. As it turns out, this approach can be applied to full-sized plants, too.

When I heard about the concept, also known as hydroponics, I was super excited to try it for my own indoor plants. After all, using (and storing) bags of potting soil can get pretty messy in an apartment with no outdoor space. Plus, the prospect of preventing fungus gnats is very enticing.

While there are pros and cons of hydroponic gardening to consider, once understood the process is pretty simple, and I now have a calathea growing this way, as well as a once-neglected anthurium that I'm attempting to rescue. After scrolling through social media, it seems that many plant parents have had successful results with the technique, which is often tipped as the future of indoor gardening, so I'm feeling hopeful.

How to grow houseplants without soil – an expert guide

If you want to try this technique, too, the following advice from houseplant experts will help.

Growing houseplants in water

Most plants can be grown this way – from pothos to monsteras. 

To start, Kiersten Rankel, an expert from houseplant-care app Greg, says to choose a glass vase, jar, or pot – 'any vessel with a wide mouth and no drainage hole. Colored glass works best to help prevent algae growth,' she adds.

Next, you need to wash the soil away from the roots of your plant. I did this by putting my plants in the bath and spraying them with the shower head, using my fingers to carefully get into the nooks and crannies. 

Then, all you need to do is pop your plant into the container and add some room-temperature water. As always when watering houseplants, using harvested rainwater is great, if you have it. 'Fill up to where the foliage starts,' Kiersten advises. 'Try to prop the leaves up above the water so they don’t rot,' she adds.

It's important to remember that potting soil is full of nutrients, so adding a few drops of fertilizer to the water is essential when you add your plant. Continue to add diluted fertilizer to the water every month or so, says Kiersten.

Kiersten also recommends replacing the water every few weeks to prevent algae buildup. 'Monitor for slimy coatings on any roots, which may signal rot, and trim any damaged areas,' she says.

Other ways to grow houseplants without soil

Diane Kuthy, the founder of How To Grow Everything, highlights how other plants can be grown without soil, using different techniques.

Air plants are one example. As epiphytes (which are plants that grow on other plants), they do not need soil, Diane says. 'This means that you can plant them in creative mediums like a bowl filled with rocks, sand, or even crystals.' 

They need a bit of maintenance to stay happy, though, Diane points out. 'Air plants need to be soaked in filtered water (not tap water) for about an hour every week and then left out in a sunny location to dry off for a few hours. They also need to be fertilized monthly with a fertilizer specially designed for air plants.' 

You can also grow succulents without soil, by growing them in sand or rocky mediums instead, Diane notes. 'This is because succulents are typically desert plants that are accustomed to dry environments. In fact, many succulents would die if placed in regular potting soil, because they would be exposed to too much moisture.

'To care for succulents that are planted in rocks or sand, you will need to water them weekly and provide water-soluble nutrients via fertilizer periodically to keep them happy,' she says.

FAQs

What are the drawbacks of growing houseplants without soil?

'The downside of growing plants in water is that you will need to keep the water clean and free of algae (which requires changing the water periodically),' says Diane. Hydroponic pumps can help to keep the water circulating and fresh, but those systems can be expensive and break down over time, she adds.

When growing in dry mediums such as rocks or sand, you'll need to remember to consistently water and fertilize your plants, Diane says, as they contain no nutrients and do not hold onto water.

What is semi-hydroponics?

Semi-hydroponics, also known as hydroculture, is when plants are grown in a porous material such as lightweight expanded clay aggregate (otherwise known as LECA – available from Amazon). 

Growing in LECA is a very low-maintenance option, as you may only need to add water once every few weeks. Like growing plants hydroponically, you'll need to add fertilizer to the water. 

'Gently nestle the roots in the top half of the medium and fill the bottom half with water,' says Kiersten. 'Allow it to fully dry before replenishing.'

If you're interested in gardening without soil, you may want to try forcing bulbs in water, too – a lovely way to bring springtime blooms inside your home. It's also possible to grow some veggies in water from scraps: try growing celery from a stalk, for instance.

The healing properties of many plants are renowned when it comes to our mental and physical wellbeing, but did you know that soil has benefits too?

Yes, the humble bedrock of our yards isn’t only good for growing plants - it can give us a boost as well.

It is a well-known fact that a little dirt does us good, and that sterile environments can weaken our inner defences, but now scientists have discovered that there is a positive link between all soil types, their microbes and various aspects of human health.

How can soil boost our health?

Going into the yard and getting our hands into the soil is a great way of de-stressing and letting go of the day’s tensions and frustrations.

After a tough day at work, I find it incredibly mood-boosting to go out and get weeding - even in the cold days of winter. There is something almost meditative about the process that soothes a buzzing mind and gives the body the freedom to move and stretch.

But as well as gardening’s physical yogic properties, soil has been found to contain a microbe called Mycobacterium vaccae that, among other things, is thought to mirror the effects of antidepressants such as Prozac.

How does soil therapy work?

The acts of planting, weeding, getting our fingers in the soil are regarded by many as a therapy - no wonder so many of us see our yards as our happy place.

But coming into contact with beneficial soil nutrients and microbes, either through touch, inhalation or even accidentally ingesting small amounts via homegrown produce, raises our levels of cytokine, tiny immunity-boosting proteins that control levels of inflammation.

As humans evolved, they created natural so-called 'buddy systems' with beneficial microbes and organisms that helped shore up our internal defences and gut microbiomes - which are increasingly recognised as the cornerstone of our mental and physical wellbeing.

In 1989, British scientist David Strachan coined the term 'hygiene hypothesis', suggesting that as human beings have advanced and started to live in environments increasingly isolated from natural microorganisms, we started to experience higher rates of immune disorders and allergies such as asthma.

However, recent research has shown that when we come back into contact with soil-dwelling superpowers such as M. vaccae, their beneficial effects start to reboot and can release benefits for up to three weeks afterwards.

Three key soil benefits to health

Scientists have so far discovered that Mycobacterium vaccae have three main benefits to humans. They are:

• By binding to receptors that block inflammatory pathways, the microbes can help reduce inflammation and stress-related complaints, potentially offering relief to sufferers of rheumatoid arthritis and Crohn’s disease.
• Beneficial soil microbes can raise serotonin levels in the brain, improving our mood and brain functions and making us less likely to be troubled by stress. A lack of serotonin has been linked to anxiety, depression and obsessive behaviours, so the fact that soil contains natural antidepressants could be a major breakthrough in the help available to sufferers.
• It is thought that Mycobacterium vaccae can also be used in the fight against asthma, allergies and other conditions caused by respiratory inflammation. The tiny microbes help to strengthen our auto-immune systems and resistance to irritants.

Where can I read more about soil therapy?

Reports have been published in several countries on the benefits of increased close association with soil.

In 2004, British cancer specialist Dr Mary O'brien published a paper explaining how after being injected with inert M. vaccae, the quality of life and mood of lung cancer patients improved.

In Finland in 2020, further studies  showed that children attending daycare in natural environments had more diverse gut and skin microbes than their peers growing up in urban areas. It was also found that children who played outside in rural areas had better eyesight and fewer allergies than their city peers.

Research carried out by Christopher Lowry, Integrative Physiology Professor at the University of Boulder Colorado, has shown that anti-inflammatory fat found in the soil bacteria M. vaccae can help suppress stress.

In 2019 in Science Daily,he said: 'The idea is that as humans have moved away from farms and an agricultural or hunter-gatherer existence into cities, we have lost contact with organisms that served to regulate our immune system and suppress inappropriate inflammation.

'That has put us at higher risk for inflammatory disease and stress-related psychiatric disorders.'

FAQs

Is soil good for your mental health?

Studies conducted on mice by scientists at Bristol University and University College London in the UK have shown that soil bacteria works in a similar way to anti-depressants.

The report, in Medical News Today, states that the microbes commonly found in soil trigger the brain to produce serotonin, one of the body's most important 'tools' that regulates everything from mood to digestion.

Low serotonin levels can lead to a range of issues as diverse as OCD, aggression and irritable bowel syndrome, so by digging in the dirt, we can improve our wellbeing in more ways than we realise.

How can we get the benefits of soil now?

There are so many easy ways. Gardening is the obvious choice, and it is important to get your children and grandchildren interested in growing outdoors too.

There are lots of garden projects you can involve children in, even in winter as long as they are wrapped up warm.

It also pays to go out into the great outdoors as much as you can, because even scuffing up the ground on walks can boost your access to important microbes and you will also feel the benefits of fresh air and sunshine.

While we always advocate the benefits of gardening and getting your fingers in the dirt, we do advise you to wash your hands afterwards - especially if you're going to be eating or preparing food - and protect any open cuts and grazes on your hands with gloves or band-aids.

Q: I have just bought a few small succulents, including aloes, echeveria, and a jade plant. I plan to plant them together in a large, bowl-shaped container to brighten up my desk. What soil would you recommend I use?

A: Perhaps the most important thing to remember when caring for succulents is that too much water can quickly lead to problems – and even be fatal for the plants. This means, as well as turning your watering regime down to a minimum, you’ll need to select a potting soil that doesn’t become waterlogged easily.

The best potting soil for your succulents

Succulents don’t need moisture-retaining soil because they naturally grow in arid environments, and have adapted to store water in their leaves and tissue, explains plant expert Autumn Hilliard-Knapp. What's more, wet soil prevents air from reaching their delicate roots, and will cause them to rot, adds Kiersten Rankel of houseplant-care app, Greg.

Conveniently, there are many well-draining commercial mixes available that are specially formulated for growing succulents and cacti. These usually contain a combination of materials like peat moss, pine bark, coarse sand, and perlite, Autumn says.

Paris Lalicata from The Sill agrees that using a succulent- or cactus-specific potting mix is the way forward. ‘You definitely want to avoid potting your succulents with standard potting mixes,’ she adds, as this would be a succulent mistake. Most standard potting mixes for indoor plants are designed for tropical houseplants, and retain a lot of moisture, she explains.

Top tip: If you’re planting your succulents in a terrarium, a ‘drainage layer’ of gravel or small rocks beneath your layer of potting mix can be beneficial. 

Shop cactus and succulent potting mixes:

How to make your own potting mix for succulents

You can make your own succulent mix by combining equal parts of regular potting soil and perlite, sand, or gravel, says Kiersten Rankel. This creates lots of air pockets to help with drainage, while still providing plenty of nutrients, she explains.

'Make sure your pot has a drainage hole so any extra water can escape,' she adds.

Top tip: Perlite is a lightweight material made from volcanic glass or rock. It is beneficial for improving the drainage and aeration of potting mixes. You can buy organic perlite from Perfect Plants Nursery.

FAQs

Can you grow succulents in water?

It may come as a surprise, but stem cuttings from some types of succulents can be propagated in water as opposed to soil. Ensure you change the water frequently to keep it clean and avoid getting the stems and leaves wet, as this may cause them to rot.

Can you grow succulents in sand?

Some succulents can survive in just sand, providing it is coarse enough to drain well. However, you may need to add a little fertilizer to provide enough nutrients for them. Combining sand with potting soil is generally a better approach to help your plants flourish.

Aside from getting the soil right, there are a few other important aspects of successful succulent care. These include repotting and pruning them when needed. 

Remember, too, that succulents can be propagated from cuttings. So, if you love tending to your collection, it’s easy to make more for free.

Maintaining a vegetable garden requires dedication and effort, but the payoff is more than worth it. While it is important to maintain your garden throughout the growing season, it is equally important to prepare it for planting next year. 

Unless you are a devotee of the no-dig gardening method, one of the jobs to add to your winter gardening checklist will be to turn over the soil in your vegetable garden.

Turning over your vegetable garden soil in winter helps to break up any compacted areas in the soil and allows air and water to circulate more freely. It also exposes any pests or diseases to the elements, which can help to reduce their numbers. 

When soil is left untouched for a long period of time, it can become depleted of nutrients and may not support healthy plant growth. So, winter is the perfect time to give your garden soil some tender loving care. 

How to turn over your vegetable garden soil in winter

Turning over your vegetable garden soil in winter is a vital step to prepare for the upcoming growing season. Below our experts share their advice. 

1. Remove debris

According to Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Lawn Love, the first step in turning over your vegetable garden in winter is to remove all the fallen leaves and debris from the soil. Approach this step with a hands-on mindset. Wear sturdy garden gloves, such as these ones from Amazon and use a rake to gently clear away any remnants of plants, weeds, or fallen leaves. You can of course collect these leaves and make leaf mold for use elsewhere in your yard. 

Remove any weeds and level the ground. Some weeds can go dormant in the winter and resume growth in the spring, while others can drop seeds, so it's best to pull all of them rather than plowing them into the soil.

Take a closer look at the garden beds, ensuring that no hidden debris is left behind. This hands-on approach sets the stage for a clean and fresh gardening canvas and helps prevent diseases and pests from overwintering in the soil.

2. Loosen the soil

The next step is to loosen the soil. Use a garden fork or a tiller such as the LawnMaster TE1016M Electric Tiller from Amazon to break up the compacted soil. 

This process helps improve aeration and drainage, preventing waterlogging during winter rains. Breaking the soil into small clumps will make it easier for frost to penetrate and break down larger particles.

‘Focus on areas where the soil seems compacted, applying a bit of extra effort to break up clumps,’ says Zahid Adnan, founder of The Plant Bible. ‘This step isn't just about preparing the soil; it's a connection with the very foundation of your garden.’ 

3. Add organic matter

Enrich your soil by incorporating organic matter. Compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold are excellent choices. Spread a layer of organic matter over the garden bed and use a shovel or fork to work it into the soil. 

The best vegetable garden fertilizer for developing green crops is nitrogen; strong root growth is supported by phosphorus and potassium. If your garden isn't going to be planted with winter veggies, wait until spring to apply an all-purpose granular vegetable fertilizer.

This boosts fertility, enhances soil structure, and encourages the development of a thriving microbial community. You should aim to add organic matter at least twice a year for optimal soil health.

4. Check your soil pH levels

Test your soil pH using a simple soil testing kit available at Amazon, which will help determine what vitamins have depleted over the developing season. If needed, amend the pH by adding lime to raise it or sulfur to lower it. 

Maintaining the right pH ensures that essential nutrients are readily available to your plants, promoting robust growth. Understanding your soil's pH can prevent nutrient deficiencies and optimize plant health.

5. Mulch the surface

The final stage is to mulch the top layer of your vegetable garden soil. Mulching helps regulate soil temperature, prevents erosion, and provides a cozy blanket for beneficial organisms during the colder months. 

There are different types of mulch you can use including straw, leaves, or wood chips, remember to spread it evenly across the garden bed. Mulching can also deter winter weeds and reduce the risk of soil-borne diseases. 

For those looking to go the extra mile, consider sowing cover crops like winter rye or clover. These crops help prevent soil erosion, fix nitrogen in the soil, and provide additional organic matter when turned over in the spring.

FAQs

It's important to remember that soil health is key to a productive garden. By turning the soil and adding organic matter, you're not only preparing the bed but also improving soil fertility and structure. Plus, it's a great way to get some exercise and connect with nature, even in the colder months. 

I never thought I'd be saying this but I'm really interested in the subject of soil health at the moment. It has never been more topical. You'll know why if you've watched the brilliant film Kiss the Ground on Netflix, which explores ideas around soil regeneration to mitigate climate change. 

There's even a World Soil Day every December that celebrates the importance of healthy soil, and focuses on the precious link between soil and water. Over 95 per cent of our food originates from these two fundamental resources, a statistic that certainly helps focus the mind in terms of making improvements. 

While soil regeneration on a larger scale can reverse global warming, copying the key ideas in your own garden is helpful too, especially if you're trying to establish wildflower areas, prairie gardens or other ideas that include a more hands-off and less intensive approach to garden design.

Good soil and water management on a localized level also improves our capacity to withstand extreme climate events such as droughts, floods, and sand or dust storms. 

In our guide, you can find out how to boost your soil's nutrients so that healthy soil becomes integral to everything you do as part of your own backyard ideas. It means you can join this global movement to make a difference, and at the same time grow healthier plants.

8 ways to boost your soil's nutrients - and the importance of doing so

The importance of cultivating healthy soil is vital even in the smallest of spaces. It doesn't matter whether you have a tiny backyard or a huge one, the same rule applies in terms of soil management: what gets taken out of the soil when growing plants needs to be put back. 

'The base ingredient of all gardens is the ground we walk on,' says landscape designer Jinny Blom, author of What Makes A Garden, available here from Amazon. 'There is skill involved in determining whether your soil is healthy or not. Feeling it and smelling it tells you a great deal. Having a bit of a dig around allows you to learn more about its structure.'

The most fundamental element of creating a successful garden is understanding the make up of your soil. This will play a key role in influencing the planting and final outcome of your garden. So, make it a priority to find out about soil types so that you can enhance what you have.

1. Find out about soil function

Your garden soil has a key role to play in the successful cultivation of plants. In the most basic sense, soil provides a physical support for plants. At the same time, it holds the water, air and nutrients that are so important for successful cultivation. 

Soil is also home to all the organisms that play an essential role in making it suitable for growing plants by enriching it with organic matter. These organisms range from small decomposing animals like mice and moles, to earthworms, which are one of the most beneficial things as they create channels in the soil that helps aeration and drainage.

Fungi are another important organism as they live on decomposing organic matter and often grow close to a plant's roots, which helps them assist in the transfer of nutrients from the soil.

The main micro-organisms are bacteria, which break down minerals and organic matter in the soil. If there is too much water in the soil and no oxygen available, harmful bacteria will flourish instead.

These elements combine and are toiling away beneath the surface to enrich your planting and contribute to soil health. But it's all about give and take, and ensuring the balance is right by finding out how to boost your soil's nutrients to replace what the plants take away.

2. Be aware of soil profile

'Soils represent a dynamic part of our natural environment with many inter-linked chemical, physical and biological processes, acting either together or consecutively to create a distinctive soil profile,' according to researchers J H Gauld and L A Dawson of globally recognised research organisation The James Hutton Institute. 

The soil profile is significant when it comes to nutrient management as it offers an insight into how fertile your soil is. It's composed of a number of distinct layers, which are known as horizons. Put simply, it is defined as a vertical section of the soil from the surface down to where the soil meets the underlying rock. 

A healthy topsoil (A horizon) is important because it's a source of plant nutrients and contains the majority of plant roots. The next layer down (B horizon) is the horizon most widely sampled if you need to test the pH of soil. 

As the soil weathers and/or organic matter decomposes, the profile of soil changes over time, and can be impacted in particular by waterlogged conditions. If you love the idea of getting to grips with soil science as much as I do, think about extracting a core of soil with an auger or probe like this stainless steel soil sampler probe from Amazon.

3. Familiarize yourself with the benefits of using organic matter

There is an important difference between building good soil from within, such as with naturally decomposed organic matter, and adding commercial liquid nutrients or fertilizers that are shop bought. 

Organic matter improves the soil by providing nutrients such as nitrogen, potassium and sulfur for plants, while also preventing the loss of these nutrients. It consists of dead and partly decomposed animal and plant life. This combination eventually breaks down completely to produce a rich substance known as humus, which boosts soil quality.

'Organic matter feeds the soil, fertilisers feed the plant,' explains RHS horticultural expert Stephen Millam. 'Though fertilisers can be very effective in dealing with short term nutrient deficiencies in the garden, a more long term, environmentally friendly and sustainable solution is to build up the organic matter in the soil. Organic matter will also improve soil structure, nutrient and water-holding capacity, and stimulate soil micro-organisms that help nutrients in the soil.'

Good sources of organic matter include garden compost, manure, leaf mold, and old mushroom compost. You can also buy processed forms of organic matter but it tends to be a more expensive option.

4. Realise the importance of mineral levels

Whether naturally occurring or provided by fertilizer, minerals are an important part of building soil nutrients. Plants are very dependent on being supplied sufficient quantities of mineral nutrition in the soil profile. Nutrients that come from either the breakdown of organic matter or the weathering of rocks are dissolved in water in the soil, then absorbed through the roots of plants to aid growth.

'Compost and organic matter contribute a balanced mix of nutrients, fostering a more comprehensive and sustainable nutrient supply,' explains sustainability expert Cristina Sollis of Green Hive. 'They improve soil texture, water retention, and nutrient-holding capacity.

'On the other hand, adding liquid nutrients or fertilizers is a more targeted and immediate way to address specific nutrient deficiencies. While this approach can quickly address nutrient shortages, it may not contribute to long-term improvements in soil structure and microbial diversity. Additionally, using excessive fertilizer can lead to nutrient imbalances, soil acidification, and environmental pollution.'

If your soil is deficient in one of the key nutrients it will soon show up in your plants, with some of the more obvious indications including yellowing leaves, and poor fruit or flower production. 

5. Spot the common soil nutrient deficiencies

The three main soil nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (its chemical element symbol is K), known colloquially as NPK, and often referred to as such on fertilizer packaging. If your soil is deficient in any of these major nutrients it will quickly show up in your plants.

'Nitrogen deficiency often results in stunted growth and yellowing of older leaves [known as chlorosis], as nitrogen plays a vital role in the production of chlorophyll,' says Cristina Sollis. 'In the case of phosphorus deficiency, older leaves may exhibit an unusually dark green or reddish-purple coloration. Potassium deficiency can lead to the bright yellowing of leaf margins on older leaves, eventually resembling scorched areas.' Another common indication of deficiency includes small flowers and fruit.

After the big hitters NPK, other important minerals in the major nutrient group include magnesium, where a deficiency shows up as yellowing, and early leaf fall. Insufficient calcium may cause the edges of new leaves to curl. Additionally, a shortage of sulfur may manifest as yellowing in younger leaves.

'Macro-nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are required by plants in larger quantities,' says Cristina. 'They play fundamental roles in processes like photosynthesis, energy transfer, and overall plant development. On the other hand, micro-nutrients, such as iron, manganese, zinc, and copper are needed in smaller amounts but are equally essential for specific processes like chlorophyll synthesis, enzyme activation, and nitrogen metabolism within the plant.'

It's often not easy to determine which mineral is deficient so the answer could be to get a lab analysis done to determine exactly what's lacking. Alternatively it's always worth showing the experts at your local garden center a photo of the ailing plant.

6. Learn to love mycorrhizal fungi

The soil in your yard is teeming with life beneath the surface, including plenty of beneficial fungi, which work by pumping good things into the root systems of plants and thereby improving the microbiome of your soil to create a healthy functioning medium for growing plants.

These powerhouses work by passing water and nutrients to the plant and helping them grow. They form a microscopic thread-like network known as mycelium. 

It's easy to boost natural levels of mycorrhizal fungi by mulching soil with organic matter and leaf mold. You can also buy mycorrhizal fungi to sprinkle into planting holes. 

'I tried using mycorrhizal fungi when planting a native shelterbelt [windbreak],' says Jinny Blom. 'You can buy it in sachets at garden centers. I was sceptical, yet the root development of the new plants was much better than I expected and I am converted by the logic of how it works.'

Mycorrhizal fungi can help plants establish more quickly and boost healthy growth by supplying additional water and nutrients. This means plants can resist drought and disease better, as well as improving crops and flowers.

7. Plant a cover crop in winter

In winter if you're not growing anything else you can use vegetable or flower beds to cultivate green manures, also known as cover crops, rather than leave your soil bare and unloved. The plants are grown during the dormant season and dug into the soil before they start to turn woody. The most beneficial green manures are sown in late summer and dug in the following spring a few weeks before a crop is planted.

By planting a winter cover crop you are protecting the soil structure in winter and preventing erosion, as well as providing organic matter and nutrients, particularly if you choose nitrogen fixing plants such as clover. Nitrogen is the one most likely nutrients needed by plants as they require a significant amount. Another hidden benefit is that cover crops prevent weeds.

When green manure crops are incorporated into the soil, they add substantial amounts of organic matter,' says Cristina Sollis. 'This organic material improves soil structure, water retention, and promotes microbial activity, creating a healthier soil environment.'

8. Hop on the no-dig trend

The no-dig gardening trend is an increasingly popular way of boosting your soil’s eco-system. By leaving the soil undisturbed and feeding it with a surface mulch the idea is to let soil organisms multiply and boost plant health. It's an easy way to garden organically, as this method is all about working with nature.

Over to pioneer of the no-dig movement Charles Dowding to explain: ‘No dig means soil is undisturbed, and you feed the soil life with organic matter on the surface to maintain drainage and aeration. The use of light-excluding mulches such as cardboard to kill weeds saves time too.’ 

No dig works on the basis that as soil is packed full of micro-organisms, minerals, organic matter, air and water that have formed a complex structure over time, ideally you want to disturb it as little as possible. 

Digging the soil damages these delicate networks, and disrupts the worms and micro-organisms you need to support the health of the soil. It also destroys the structure, making it more difficult for roots to take up water and minerals. 

This means no dig is a great idea if you're looking for ideas on how to boost your soil's nutrients. 

FAQs

Once you get interested in soil science (trust me, you will) find out how to make soil more acidic too. This is necessary if your soil is too alkaline and you want to grow gorgeous acid-loving plants like azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, magnolias and hydrangeas.

You can also find out how to add phosphorus to soil to promote the growth of healthy roots and shoots, as well as how to add calcium to soil to encourage strong root systems, and improve drainage and aeration.

Green manures are one of the easiest ways of improving the soil in your yard after a busy growing season. They are effective whatever soil type you garden with, and are cheap to buy and quick to plant.

Best of all, they can be left to their own devices through winter, or in spring before you put your vegetable garden ideas into action, making them a low maintenance option for gardeners everywhere.

Green manures, also known as ‘cover crops’, are plants used to improve and maintain your soil by returning depleted nutrients.

When they mature they are dug into the soil, degrading and enriching it, while as they grow their roots bind soil structure, stopping it from being washed or blown away during the winter.

Varieties of green manures include legumes (members of the pea family) that return nitrogen to the soil, clovers, alfalfa, vetches and some grasses such as rye.

Green manures: how and why to add them to your soil

A simple and low maintenance way of giving your soil a nutrient boost, here we explain the huge benefits of green manures and how you can use them in your yard. 

The benefits of green manure

As well as boosting the soil’s nutrient values as they degrade, green manures also provide an excellent sanctuary for beneficial insects such as pest-eating beetles through the harshest months, and can help deter pests too.

Under the ground, their roots maintain the soil’s structure and prevent erosion by wind and rain.

Because they provide dense ground cover, they are also a popular form of organic weed control that blocks unwanted plants without the need for chemical alternatives.

Some varieties of green manure, such as clover, vetch and phacelia, produce attractive, nectar-rich flowers, making them excellent plants for pollinators such as bees, butterflies and hoverflies.

How to use green manures

Green manures are easy to plant throughout your yard, including in raised beds, and their seeds can be sown at different times of year.

They are widely available to buy as no-till seed mixes, such as this one from Premium Seeds on Amazon.

The best time to plant is after rainfall when the soil is damp. Weed your patch well and lightly firm it down with the back of a rake before scattering the seeds and covering them with a thin layer of soil.

They are then left to grow for several months before being cut down and dug into the soil, ideally a few weeks before planting crops and flowers to give them time to break down and enrich the ground.

If you try to cultivate plants too soon after digging in green manures, the degrading plants may hamper their growth.

When to plant green manures

Different cover crops can be planted at different times in the growing cycle.

In warmer US hardiness zones without freezing winters, you can sow your manures in the fall and leave them to grow before digging them into the soil in late winter or early spring.

Where winters are harder, it is better to sow fast-growing grass cover crops in spring after the last frosts. They grow so fast they can be incorporated into the soil in late spring or early summer before you plant late-summer crops.

Using peas and beans

If you have been growing any varieties of  peas or beans in your vegetable patch, they are a ready source of goodness for your soil and can simply be cut down and dug in after harvesting.

Their roots develop nodules packed with nitrogen as they grow, which will be released into the soil as they break down through winter.

FAQs

Don't worry if the tops of your green manures grow rampantly and are too thick to dig into the soil.

Simply cut it down and add the top bits of stems and leaves to your compost heap before digging in the roots and lower stems.

If you want your vegetable garden to be productive, you need to ensure its soil is fertile and full of nutrients. That's why you shouldn't rest on your laurels after a good summer of harvests. Fall is a great time to make efforts to fertilize your vegetable garden, and put nutrients back into the soil ready for next season’s crops.

Keeping the nutrient levels of soil high was highly important in all of the vegetable gardens I worked in. We made sure to feed the soil throughout the year, including in fall. This primarily came in the form of mulches and cover crops that were utilized to put nutrients back into the earth.

There are other feeds that can be added to help benefit plants still growing in the fall vegetable garden. Getting the timing right to apply such feeds is important to ensure the plants can take advantage before slowing down for winter.

Reasons to fertilize in the fall

Growing vegetables can deplete the soil as crops need lots of nutrients to grow during the season and produce a harvest. That is why it is a regular, and recommended, practice for growers to give their plants additional feed throughout the season, and to utilize crop rotation when planning a kitchen garden so that crops can actually put nutrients back into the soil.

The primary reason for fertilizing a vegetable garden in the fall is to help to rebuild those nutrient levels in the soil ready for future crops. A productive summer crop of vegetables will have expended many of the nutrients, and replenishment is important to ensure productive crops come the next season.

Think of feeding the vegetable garden in fall as an important proactive step to ensuring you get good yields from future vegetables planted in the garden. Not continually working to improve the soil is a vegetable gardening mistake that can result in under-performing crops and a reduction in any potential harvests.

Charmaine Peters is the Farm Director at Arden and she says that fertilizing in fall means the nutrients remain in the soil over the winter, giving plants immediate access to these nutrients come spring.

She adds: ‘In this way, we can support vigorous spring growth, resulting in healthier plants and potentially earlier harvests. And because the soil is ready for planting, you can save time and effort by not having to rush to fertilize your garden beds after the frost ends, and instead focus on planting and other spring gardening tasks.’

Fertilizing in the fall can also benefit existing vegetable and herb plants that may be present and growing in the kitchen garden. These plants will still be growing and developing root systems all the way up until they go dormant for winter. Charmaine Peters says: ‘Plants shift their energy from top growth to root development in order to produce higher concentrations of amino acids and sugars that help them resist freezing over the winter. This is why we should support the roots more during this season through fertilization.”

Ground left empty and fallow over winter can leach nutrients and be eroded, so covering the ground - either by mulching or with cover crops that are grown to add nutrients back - helps maintain the health of any vegetable garden. Mulching a vegetable garden and spreading a good thick layer of mulching materials can stop the soil freezing, prevent soil erosion, and it will be incorporated into the soil by worms to help boost the fertility levels.

Best time to fertilize a vegetable garden in the fall

The ideal window for fertilizing a vegetable garden in the fall is before the ground freezes, which will be dependent on your US hardiness zone and weather patterns. At this stage, any plant still growing will be able to take advantage of the added nutrients before going dormant for winter.

Lindsey Chastain, a homesteader and founder of The Waddle and Cluck, advises that the latest you would want to fertilize is around four weeks before the first frost date. She says: ‘Any later can leave fresh fertilizer in the soil over winter, where it may leach out from rain or snow. Aim to fertilize around early to mid-October in most regions. In zone 7b, we do our final fertilization one week before Halloween.’

If you are mulching the vegetable garden in fall, then the materials can be spread at any time in the fall period. The vegetable gardens I worked in tended to mulch in October. You want to get the mulch down in fall and before the frosts, as you never want to mulch on top of frozen ground.

Best fall fertilizers for vegetable gardens

Throughout history it has been common for vegetable growers to dig and add animal manure to planting sites ready for next year. It is important that fresh manure is never used straight onto plants, you must use aged manure to avoid burning the roots of plants with the high level of some nutrients that it contains. Fresh manure can be mixed into the soil in fall, so those high levels can leach away and reduce over winter to be at a usable level for crops come spring.

Lindsey Chastain warns to avoid ‘high-nitrogen fertilizers in fall, which can spur excessive leaf growth before winter’ that will be damaged by the cold weather. It often tends to be the case that fertilizers to be used in fall will not be high in nitrogen.

'Use a fertilizer that’s low in nitrogen (the 'N in NPK plant fertilizer numbers) and high in phosphorus ('P') for fall fertilizing,' advises Kathi Rodgers, CEO of Oak Hill Homestead.

One example of a good feed that is high in phosphorus as Kathi describes is bone meal, which promotes root development in plants still actively growing in fall.

When it comes to types of mulches that can be used over fall and winter, I have personally found success using compost or leaf mould as a mulching material that was spread on the surface over the fall period. Other options to spread include the likes of well-rotted manure, wood or bark chippings, and pine needles.

There is a wide range of cover crops that can be sown in fall and left to grow over fall and winter to put nutrients back into the soil. These include the likes of rye, buckwheat or planting fava beans as a cover crop, while I have also personally used phacelia and crimson clover successfully as winter cover crops in vegetable gardens. You can see a range of cover crop seeds at True Leaf Market.

Shop for fertilizers online to feed your fall vegetable garden

FAQs

What is the best manure for a vegetable garden?

Several different types of animal manure are popular to use to feed vegetable gardens. I have tended to favor chicken manure in my kitchen gardens as it is high in nitrogen, while cow, sheep, and horse manure are all beneficial as they release their nutrients over an extended period of time. Any manure needs to be well-aged or added to the soil at least six months before the plants go into the area. You can get chicken manure pellets from Amazon to spread easily in the vegetable garden.

When you are starting a vegetable garden it is important to remember to continually feed and enrich the soil. Keeping that level of nutrients up is important for any kitchen garden idea on any soil type and fertile soil can be the difference between success and failure when it comes to growing vegetables.

Q: I am planning a new herb garden for my patio, and will be growing them in pots. What is the best soil to use?

A: Herbs are the perfect addition to a sunny outdoor living space, and are easy to grow. However, for a herb garden to thrive, it's essential to get the soil mix right, especially if you're using containers.

One of the most important factors for happy, healthy herbs is proper drainage. Containers with holes in the bottom are vital, as is raising the pots onto 'pot feet', but the soil you use must have good drainage, too. This is especially the case for woody, Mediterranean herbs, such as lavender and rosemary. The exception is mint, which prefers its soil to be a little more moist.

Using a nutrient-rich soil mix can also help these plants thrive. And consider the pH level, too – some plants, such as parsley and sage, prefer neutral to alkaline soil. Others, such as dill, prefer a more slightly more acidic growing environment.

How to make a potting mix for herbs

While a good potting mix (such as Burpee's Premium Organic Potting Soil from Amazon) should be just fine for most herb planters, you can also create your own. 

To do so, gardening expert Tony O'Neill of Simplify Gardening recommends combining good-quality compost, coir, and perlite or vermiculite. Keep the ratios roughly equal.

'Compost acts as a slow-release fertilizer, providing essential nutrients as it breaks down,' he says. It's a good opportunity to use homemade compost, if you have it.

Coir, a by-product of the coconut industry, helps the soil retain enough moisture while allowing excess water to drain, he continues. You can shop SpongeEase coco coir bricks from Amazon, which are well-rated amongst gardeners.

'Perlite or vermiculite contributes to the soil's porosity, promoting aeration and preventing root rot,' Tony explains. Again, both are easily found online – try Perfect Plants' organic vermiculite from Amazon, or Perfect Plants' organic perlite, also from Amazon. Alternatively, you can mix in plenty of coarse grit which is also effective at aiding drainage.

'It's worth noting that the specific soil blend might need slight tweaks depending on the particular herb species,' Tony adds – 'each herb has unique requirements.'

In terms of pH levels, lime or wood ash will make the soil more alkaline, while acidifying substances such as sulfur can reduce pH levels. So, if you want to be extra vigilant when caring for your herb planters, test the pH of the soil and adjust according to your herbs' preferences.

Getting the soil right is only the first step in successfully growing herbs in pots. 'Once you've chosen the appropriate potting soil, remember to water your herbs regularly and fertilize them every few weeks,' says Diana Cox of TheGardeningTalk.com. Be sure to position them somewhere where they get plenty of sunshine, too. 

'With proper care, your herbs will flourish in their new environment,' Diana says. And, you'll be able to enjoy them for months on end, whether you're admiring them in the garden or using them in the kitchen.

Watering plants is a necessity and it can sometimes feel like a slog during summer, with long hot days and scorching sun that quickly dries out soil. Sometimes it can feel that the soil dries out quicker than you can add moisture to it, but it does not always have to seem that way.

All plants need water to survive and without it they would all wither to a crisp during the hot summer months. Watering plants can be made more efficient with a few simple ways to help retain more of that precious water in the soil, even during hot days.

If you are looking for ways to keep soil moist in the summer, the likes of adding protection from sun and wind, mulching, and using drip irrigation systems can all help. There are even methods out there to be able to boost the water-retaining capacity of your soil, helping it to stay moist for longer. 

How to keep moisture in soil

It is always important to remember that deep and less frequent watering is more beneficial to plants that frequent, yet shallow, watering. Try to remember that whenever you head out into the backyard to water your flower bed or vegetable garden with a hose or watering can. 

Your plants will grow stronger and healthier if they get a good long and deep soak each time, and it will also mean you don’t have to water so often as there is more water being held by the soil. By giving plants a good drink, ideally in the morning before the heat of the day, the water is guaranteed to reach and remain around the root zone, and plants are encouraged to grow strong and deeper roots. This makes the plants more drought tolerant as the roots can seek moisture further down in the soil.

When in doubt, always check the moisture level a few inches below the soil surface using your finger. If it feels damp, then you do not need to water. If it is dry, then focus on giving the plants a thorough water. You can always use a soil moisture meter to check, such as this long probe soil moisture meter on Amazon that can provide instant results on levels in your backyard beds.

Shade and wind protection

Providing extra shade and protection for your plants can help to keep moisture in the soil as it creates a barrier between the ground and the searing rays of the sun. The evaporation of water from the soil will be slower in the shade than in soil left in full sun, making that moisture available to plants for a longer period. Winds rolling across the surface of the soil also contribute to drying it out.

Ben McInerney, an arborist and landscape gardener, claims that finding ways to provide shade for plants is ‘something many of us overlook, but it can actually be very important when it comes to retaining moisture in your soil.’

You can use companion planting, utilizing taller plants to provide shade and protection for shorter crops. For example, common kitchen garden ideas include growing peas or corn, which are taller crops, to provide cover for vegetables that can happily grow in shade or can bolt in hot sun, such as lettuce or spinach.

Fences or netting can be used to provide shade, such as this garden netting on Amazon that can be put over plants to block up to 50 per cent of the sun's rays and protect the soil from drying winds. 

Mulching

A good way to keep soil moist is to make sure that whatever water goes into the soil is locked into the soil. That is where mulches can prove very handy, they are materials laid over the surface of the soil. Mulching the garden will slow down any evaporation and also suppress weeds, which themselves use up water in the soil that otherwise can go to your wanted plants. By adding a layer of mulch, the soil temperature is then more stable and helps keep moisture retained.

There are many types of mulches that are commonly used. You can use organic materials such as compost, wood chips, or straw, or even add a layer of cardboard or shredded paper. The alternative is inorganic mulches, such as landscape fabric, gravel, or even using rocks instead of mulch to cover the ground.

Boost water-holding capacity

If you can increase the water-retaining level of the soil, then it in turn increases how much water can be held and the soil will stay moist for longer. There are two approaches you can take to boost the amount of water-absorbing material in the soil. 

Adding organic material such homemade compost, peat moss or coco coir will ramp up the soil’s ability to soak up and retain moisture. Such organic matter can either be dug into the soil or layered on top in the same vein as in no-dig gardening techniques.

The alternative is to use compounds that can improve how soils absorb water. Gene Caballero, the co-founder of GreenPal and experienced landscaper, recommends using a soil-wetting agent or soil conditioner.

He says: ‘These products help the water to penetrate more evenly and deeply through the soil, and some can even reduce the water's surface tension, allowing it to bind better to the soil particles.’

An example of a wetting agent is the ThermX-70 1 Gallon natural wetting agent from Walmart, it is derived from Yucca extract and reduces surface tension to help retain moisture in the soil.

If you are watering plants in containers, you can use water absorbent crystals to help store more water in the soil. These crystals can also be used to help water plants while on vacation.

Drip irrigation

Focused and slow watering can help to get and retain more moisture in the soil. When you are watering you can lose water by running off the surface and away from where you want it. 

That is why one of the common garden watering mistakes you see is gardeners watering from above. This can result in lots of water being lost to evaporation off the foliage without ever reaching the soil when watering plants in hot weather. While you always want to water at the base of plants so as much as possible goes down to the roots, using drip irrigation or soaker hoses can further help the water to slowly soak down into the rootzone.

Ben McInerney says: ‘These irrigation systems ensure that water goes directly to the plant's roots, which, as an added bonus, helps to reduce water waste! These systems are effective because they provide a slow and steady stream of water to your plants which ensures a balanced water diet for your plants and overall healthy plant growth.’

A soaker hose, such as this one on Amazon, is a good way to slowly provide drip irrigation to the ground as water seeps out consistently along the length of the hose and delivers it right to the base of the plants.

As well as keeping soil moist efficiently during the summer, considering drought tolerant landscaping ideas can also help reduce the amount of laborious watering you need to do in hot weather. With a range of plants suited to dry conditions, including a great selection of drought tolerant herbs and drought tolerant vegetables, they will require much less watering once established. 

One of the most important principles of gardening is to feed your soil so it can feed your plants. Knowing how to improve garden soil so it's up to the task of providing your plants with the nutrients they need is key. 

We all have troublesome areas of our yard where plants struggle to grow and it can be incredibly frustrating to keep throwing time and money, in the form of plant fertilizers, at plants and never really seeing them thrive.

Whatever your soil type, improving it to get your best ever plants is remarkably easy, and we are here to show you how to do it. Although this is a task that is usually done in spring and the fall, there's no reason why you can't start preparing for the task in summer too.

The 5 best ways to improve your garden soil

Follow our expert tips below to improve your soil health and you will have a flourishing yard that’s full of color and healthy plants all year round.

1. Use homemade compost

Well-rotted homemade compost is one of the best soil conditioners, adding nutrients and beneficial microbes, opening up heavy clay and improving the retention of moisture and nutrients in thin, sandy soil.

It can either be dug in or used as a type of mulch, layered on the soil to be broken down by the weather, beneficial microbes and worms.

Compost is made by mixing woody and ‘green’ materials in either a composter, which are easy to make, a plastic compost bin like this 80 gallon one by F2C on Amazon, or a compost tumbler such as this handy dual chamber compost tumbler, also on Amazon.

The woody materials can include garden prunings, shredded cardboard and paper, while the green ingredients incorporate raw kitchen fruit and vegetable peelings, soft green garden waste such as dead plants, deadheaded stems, dead vase arrangements and grass clippings from mowing the lawn.

One very on-trend way of improving your composting process is 'peecycling' or using male urine as a compost ingredient. It needs to be fresh and come straight from the source and is a valuable source of nitrogen, one of the three most important plant ingredients found in fertilizers and explained on plant fertilizer labels. 

Never add cooked foods, pet waste, diseased plant material nor weeds with ripe seedheads to your compost heap.

Turn it regularly with a long-handled garden garden fork, like this sturdy fork from Spear and Jackson on Amazon, so that all the ingredients are well combined, and it should take around six months to rot down into a rich, brown, crumbly loam.

You can speed things up by making sure the heap isn’t allowed to dry out in summer and is kept warm in winter by covering it with black plastic or Hessian.

2. Spread farmyard manure

Farmyard manure is another excellent way to improve garden soil, plus it's one of the best fertilizers for a vegetable garden and a good way to add phosphorus to the soil.

Manure helps the soil by releasing nutrients as it breaks down and is also valuable to adding body to poor soils.

It is important that you let it rot down for several months before using it because fresh manure contains high levels of nitrogen that will burn young plants.

So store it somewhere out of the way, like at the bottom of your yard or behind your shed, for a few months and don’t use it until it has completely broken down. Alternatively, add it to your compost and heap and mix it well with the other ingredients.

The best manure to use is cow, horse, chicken, sheep or goat, though the droppings and sawdust created when keeping pet rabbits can also be used but again, add them to the compost heap first. Never use the droppings of cats or dogs.

If you live near a farm you may be able to buy bags of manure cheaply at the gate, but failing that it is widely available, already composted down, like this Michigan Peat Cow Compost and Manure on Amazon.

Chicken manure pellets, such as Fancy Chicken pellets available on Amazon, are widely available and are an excellent way of improving soil in small areas. Fork them into the soil and water the area a few weeks before planting and your plants should thrive.

3. Add horticultural grit

Heavy clay soils come with all sorts of problems. Although they are richer in nutrients than thinner soils, and retain water well making them a brilliant medium for growing trees, they can get waterlogged and freeze solid, becoming unworkable when conditions are very wet or cold.

This makes it impossible to garden for a large chunk of the year, and one of the best ways to reverse this is to dig in quantities of small-scale horticultural grit, soil amendment or pea gravel.

You can either use it on its own or mix it with well-rotted compost or manure (generically called ‘organic matter’) to open up the clay, improving its drainage capabilities and allowing more oxygen to move through the soil and around plant roots.

There are plenty of trees that will grow well on clay soils if you do have this type of soil in your backyard too. 

4. Re-use old container compost

At the end of the growing season, think twice about throwing away the old potting soil from grow bags and patio planters.

While the plants that grew in them may have used up the nutrients contained within, you can reuse potting soil as a conditioner to help improve garden soil in your beds and borders.

Make sure you remove all the old plant material and any pests you find, and don’t use it if there were any signs of disease on the plants they contained.

Then either add it to your compost heap to help enrich the mix, or dig it straight into the soil in your flower beds and borders, where it will add bulk to thin soils and lighten heavy ones.

5. Grow green manure

The growing season can seriously deplete soils and they can be further damaged by winter weather and one of the best ways to replenish them and prevent further damage is to sow green manures, or cover crops.

These are packets of fast-growing seeds, often members of the pea family (legumes) that are readily available from most garden centres and online, such as this no-till cover crop seed mix from Amazon.

They fix nitrogen (essential for strong stems and foliage) back into the soil through their roots. The roots also help open up the structure of the soil, which is helpful if you garden on heavy clay.

The top growth is allowed to flower and mature and is then dug back into the soil where it rots down releasing more goodness.

The most popular varieties for green manure are clovers, legumes and rye grasses. 

Some can be left to grow for a year or more, but most work just as well if sown onto prepared soil in fall and cut back and dug in towards the end of winter.

As well as boosting the soil, green manures also help to get rid of weeds and prevent erosion and compaction by wind and rain.

Once you have improved your soil, keep it healthy by using the no dig system of soil maintenance, one of the best ways to create an eco-friendly garden.

It is exactly as it says – instead of digging and forking your soil, you simply add more well rotted organic material (compost, manure, leaf mulch) to existing beds, making it perfect for kitchen garden ideas and if you are planning a cut flower garden.

The soil microbes and invertebrates such as worms help break down the soil and keep it healthy and it is easier to plant through the rich, crumbly loam that the no-dig system creates.

Even weeding is easier – either pull them out or chop down weed seedlings with a hoe and let them decompose on the soil, further enriching it.

Many gardeners will use a lot of potting soil each year – and it seems a shame to throw it out once it's served its purpose. The good news is that it can be reused around the backyard if it grew healthy plants the season before and is free of pests or diseases. Doing so is a great way to reduce waste and will save you multiple trips to the garden center.

Understanding soil types and looking after the soil you have is key to growing healthy plants, getting lots of flower blooms, or reaping the rewards of bumper fruit and vegetable harvests. While potting soil can be recycled, provided it is healthy, it will need to be boosted with other materials to get the right level of nutrients for your plants. This guide explains everything you need to know for successful results.

What is potting soil?

Potting soil has a multitude of uses for the gardener. It is used to grow on plants that have been transplanted up from their seed trays and is also used as a medium in which to grow plants in raised beds, containers, or pots. 

It is made up of a mixture of the mineral elements of sand, clay, and loam that make up soil and other organic materials. It can also include elements such as peat moss or perlite and offers advantages including being better draining and more lightweight than garden soil.

How to use old potting soil in your backyard

The life of potting soil does not have to end after just one season. As a growing number of gardeners want to reuse, recycle, and make things last longer, there is no reason potting soil cannot come under this. It can be reused around the garden in various ways, from being used as a soil conditioner to help improve structure and aeration; mixed with compost and added to flower beds or borders; or as part of building new raised beds or trying out no-dig gardening or lasagna gardening techniques. Potting soil can also be added to a homemade compost heap to help speed up the decomposition process in the pile.

However, there are a few caveats to make sure the soil is okay to use again and not going to create further problems down the line.

If it is going straight onto garden beds then remove any old plant material from it, though this is unnecessary if the soil is going on the compost pile as it can be left to rot down. Lucy Chamberlain, a fruit and vegetable expert for Homes & Gardens, also advises fluffing it up to alleviate compaction before using it.

Lucy advises only reusing compost if it is definitely free of lingering pests, such as vine weevils, nematodes, and root flies. Nematodes and root flies tend to be crop-specific, such as potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant or peppers for the former or carrots for root fly, so Lucy says to be mindful not to reuse potting compost that housed those crops on areas where similar crops may be grown again.

She adds: 'Vine weevil is such a general pest that if the grubs are still in the compost, they’ll likely feed on whatever you plant in it – so don’t reuse it.'

Old potting compost will have had its nutrients used up, therefore it is imperative to improve its fertility when reusing it. John Negus, a gardening expert, explains how organic matter such as well-rotted garden compost and manure will ‘give the mix a boost’ or you can add a balanced slow-release chemical fertilizer, such as the Miracle-Gro Shake 'N Feed All Purpose Continuous Release Plant Food available at Amazon. As well as this, many gardeners combine old potting soil with new compost at a 50/50 mix in order to get the right level of nutrients and improve overall soil health. Other amendments can also be used depending on your soil's pH.

John adds: ‘Peat and peat-alternative composts, being organic matter, also tend to break down over time and lose their structure. Mixing old compost with other materials does help, but it might be worth adding some loam-based material for longer-term benefits.’ A loam soil is constructed of soil, sand, and clay, and it is the ideal composition of soil for any gardener. You can buy loam soil to use in your backyard, but always ensure to source it from reputable suppliers to ensure it is high in quality.

Alternatives to reusing potting soil

If there is a risk of potential disease or pests in the soil and it causes it to be discarded, then there are other options to create a fertile soil mix suitable for adding to beds, borders, or raised beds.

The number one alternative for mulching your garden is homemade compost, but there are other types of mulch to consider, too, such as well-rotted manure, leaf mold, or spent mushroom compost. They can all be combined with existing garden soil to provide a rich and fertile mix that has a great structure and drains well. You can also use the likes of bark, coarse sand, sawdust, perlite, or vermiculite to make a successful soil mixture. Materials such as sphagnum peat moss or coco coir – a popular medium that is a byproduct from coconut production – are alternative options, but both come with concerns with regards to sustainability.

As with old potting compost, any homemade soil mix should either have a natural fertilizer, coming from compost or animal manures, or have extra synthetic fertilizers added. This can come from the likes of bone meal, rock phosphate, or kelp meal to provide a wealth of nutrients to plants over a long period of time. You can get bone meal from Amazon in bags to incorporate or as spikes to push directly into the ground.

FAQs

There is definitely scope to reuse old potting soil around your backyard. Whether you have a cut flower garden, kitchen garden, or vegetable garden, providing the soil is pest and disease-free then it can be utilized, as long as you supplement it to boost the available nutrients.

Many gardeners find it a challenge identifying plants for wet soil. Most plots have dank, wet spots where water tends to sit, brooks overflow, springs discharge or there is a naturally high water table. Steps can be taken to improve drainage, especially where conditions are stagnant, but the easiest solution is often to find plants that are happy to thrive in these lower-lying areas. 

Moisture-lovers require damp soil but need good drainage for long-term survival. For the best flowerbed ideas, you may find mounding their beds is often a good solution. While most of the roots inhabit the upper layers, deeper ones can reach down to access water during dry spells. True bog and marginal plants like royal fern (Osmunda regalis) and cultivars of Iris laevigata can flourish where water levels fluctuate between standing water and moist soil. Yet these may come unstuck where soils saturated from fall to spring are apt to dry out in summer. 

As there is a wide range of attractive moisture-loving plants, a low-lying area is best viewed as an opportunity rather than a disaster. It’s a chance to widen the range of plants you can grow without having to create a bog garden by burying a pond liner and filling it with soil. In large damp sites, well-chosen trees can aerate the soil. Hornbeams, alders, weeping willows and deciduous swamp cypress like Taxodium distichum var imbricarium ‘Nutans’ thrive in wet clay. Meanwhile, a catkin-bearing shrub sweet gale or bog myrtle (Myrica gale) act as an understorey. 

16 plants for wet soil to brighten up tricky spots and damp plots

Spring is a great time to focus on those troublesome areas of the garden and bring them to life with some well-selected color and texture. 

We’ve chosen 16 of the best for moist beds, badly drained corners and boggy borders. 

1. Clethra alnifolia ‘Hummingbird’ 

• Height: 4ft
• Spread: 4ft
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

Clethra alnifolia ‘Hummingbird’ is one of the best flowering shrubs you can grow in wet soil, as long as the soil is neutral to acidic. This compact deciduous shrub is also known by the promising names ‘sweet pepperbush’ and ‘summer sweet’.

Small, clove-scented white flowers open in long racemes from mid to late summer, and there are good golden fall tints. You can grow this moisture-loving shrub in sun or light shade. Just cut away any unwanted suckers. 

2. Salix ‘Yelverton’

• Height: 6ft
• Spread: 6ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Lovers of British trees will adore this vigorous willow, grown for reddish orange winter stems. Shrubby Salix ‘Yelverton’ AGM is usually pruned almost to the base in March or pollarded, which is when stems are pruned back to a trunk. This needs to be done annually.

This is one of the most vibrant plants for wet soil and gives glorious winter displays. Use the long colourful wands for basket weaving or plant supports. A moist but well-drained soil is preferred, so avoid permanently waterlogged soils.

3. Sambucus racemosa ‘Sutherland Gold’

• Height: 10ft
• Spread: 10ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6a-1

Sambucus racemosa ‘Sutherland Gold’ is one of the most uplifting plants for damp areas and moist soil. Although common elder (S.nigra) yields the best crop of berries and dark-leaved S.’Black Lace’ is striking, avid lovers of elder plants will appreciate this cheerful shrub.

This shrubby plant’s divided, golden foliage is sure to brighten up a gloomy spot. Light shade is preferred to avoid scorching the foliage. Expect the usual heads of creamy white elder flowers in May, followed by a light crop of berries. 

You can shop for sambucus at Burpee.com.

4. Darmera peltata

• Height: 5ft
• Spread: 3ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Some of the best plants for wet soil are also good for themed gardens. If you are after tropical garden ideas, you’ll appreciate Darmera peltata. With their roots in ditches, or where rivers break their banks, the umbrella plant takes on a luxuriant, ‘Jurassic Park’ look.

This stunning perennial from SW Oregon/NW California produces naked stems bearing flat heads of pale pink flowers which open before the parasol-like leaves rise upwards. These deliver a russet-red fall finale before the plants die back to thick rhizomes for winter.

5. Iris sibirica ‘Uncorked’

• Height: 24in
• Spread: 12in
• Hardiness: USDA 6a-1

There are some lovely new cultivars of rhizomatous Siberian iris, including this beauty with pale blue standards and yellow-marked falls. This moisture-loving plant is ready to make swathes of tall, slender stems, topped by elegant flowers opening in June.

For anyone who knows how to grow irises, these perennials will flourish in moist soils, though new growth is tempting to slugs. Treat Iris sibirica ‘Uncorked’ as an herbaceous perennial and divide clumps from midsummer to early fall. 

Shop for Siberian iris at Nature Hills Nursery.

6. Lythrum salicaria ‘Blush’

• Height: 30in
• Spread: 18in
• Hardiness: USDA 6a-1

Herbaceous perennial European and Asian purple loosestrife, having naturalized in North America, is a bit of a nuisance in natural wetlands. Elsewhere, though, cultivars such as ‘Blush’ are lovely choices for colonising moist soil and are ideal plants for damp conditions.

These plants would not look out of place in a country garden themed spot. The tall narrow spires of pale-pink midsummer-fall flowers make strong upright shapes. Grow Lythrum salicaria ‘Blush’ in sun, and remember to deadhead if you want to prevent seeding.

7. Fritillaria meleagris

• Height: 10in
• Spread: 3in
• Hardiness: USDA 5a-9b

Just because you are trying to address a damp planting area doesn’t mean you can’t have some fun with your selections. The lovely snake’s head fritillary, one of the most intriguing spring bulbs, thrives in moist meadows and will redeem a damp lawn in the open or light shade. 

Plant bulbs 4in deep to enjoy the classic nodding purple and white chequerboard flowers in mid-spring. Just don’t cut grass until the leaves of Fritillaria meleagris have died back. Lawns or borders need to dry out for summer dormancy. 

You can shop for fritillaria at Etsy.

8. Leucojum aestivum ‘Gravetye Giant’

• Height: 30in
• Spread: 12in
• Hardiness: USDA: 6a-1

Anyone looking for the best snowdrops to grow as well as the best plants for wet soil will love this one. Despite the name ‘summer snowflake’, the bulbous clumps of Leucojum aestivum ‘Gravetye Giant’ produce their green-marked white blooms in late winter-early spring.

This is an excellent choice if you fancy growing bulbs in damp spots, and its blooms resemble giant snowdrops. They thrive in dank bogs at the bottom of gardens, in dappled light, yet will also grow in better-drained improved clay in other parts of the garden. Plant bulbs 4in deep in fall. 

9. Narcissus pseudonarcissus

• Height: 12in
• Spread: 4in
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Some of the best bulbs for damp soil can also be amongst the brightest and cherriest. If you are keen to plant daffodil bulbs, you can’t go wrong with Narcissus pseudonarcissus. Moisture-loving daffodils are excellent in damp meadows and clearings in damp woods.

It’s always impressive how wild daffodils can thrive in heavy, moist soil, even when positioned on a spring-fed hillside. These cheerful plants tolerate the winter wet, bloom profusely, enjoy damp spring soil and even happily withstand a drier summer. 

Shop for daffodil bulbs at Burpee.

10. Cardamine pratensis

• Height: 12in
• Spread: 12in
• Hardiness: USDA 6a-1

If you crave the delights of a wildflower meadow, you’ll appreciate this next choice in our selection of plants for damp spots. The appearance of the lilac-pink flowers of perennial lady’s smock (or cuckoo flower) in verges and meadows is charming proof that spring has properly arrived.

Moist yet well-drained soil is the preference for Cardamine pratensis, and they’re the perfect choice for colonising damp lawns allowed to develop into a moist meadow. Propagate by seed or division. 

11. Lychnis flos-cuculi

• Height: 18in
• Spread: 12in
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Another great choice for moist meadow planting, Lychnis flos-cuculi is also one of the most colorful plants for wet soil. If you are fond of pink and purple plants, this British wildflower is easily raised from seed for plants to sprinkle through areas of boggy grassland.

A plant of water meadows and marshes, this branching upright perennial is easily identified in early summer. It develops clusters of rose-pink or lilac purple flowers with narrowly shaggy, deeply cut petals, earning it the name ‘ragged robin’.

12. Filipendula ulmaria

• Height: 2-3ft
• Spread: 2-3ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Many meadow plants bloom in spring, so for summer interest, why not introduce British wildflower and forager’s favourite, meadowsweet? The tall stately stems of Filipendula ulmaria bear clusters of small, fragrant creamy flowers in summer. 

This rhizomatous perennial is a delightful choice for anyone looking for novel white garden ideas as well as moisture-loving plants. It holds its own well amongst robust grasses and tolerates poorly drained moist soil in damp ditches and riverside meadows. 

Shop for meadowsweet at Etsy

13. Gunnera manicata

• Height: 5-8ft
• Spread: 5-8ft
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

Our next selection is sure to appeal to lovers of rhubarb as well as being one of the best plants for wet soil. Known as giant or Chilean rhubarb, its large crinkly foliage is accompanied by cone-like arrangements of small flowers in the summer months.

Gunnera manicata is a spectacular Brazilian herbaceous perennial, at its best in wet soils, bog gardens or brookside locations. These encourage massive umbrella-like leaves with bristly stems and, on the undersides, veins. Foliage dies back for winter and provides insulation for crowns.

14. Senecio ‘The Rocket’ AGM

• Height: 6ft
• Spread: 3ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Better known as ligularia, this is a classic ‘bog garden’ herbaceous perennial. Senecio ‘The Rocket’ produces large, tooth-edged leaves, and these are apt to wilt in harsh sun or if the soil begins to dry out.

Lovers of bright garden color schemes will appreciate the flowers of these vibrant plants for bogs. With toes suitably moist, plants happily send up black stems clad with yellow flowers in summer. Deep soil, shelter and some indirect sun are appreciated. 

15. Rodgersia aesculifolia AGM

• Height: 6ft
• Spread: 3ft
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/8a

Another of our recommended plants for bogs and water garden ideas is this herbaceous perennial from Northern China. The leaves of Rodgersia aesculifolia resemble those of conker trees (horse chestnuts), and are large and impressively shaped.

These striking plants are handsome with or without the accompaniment of small yellow-white summer flowers held in tapering panicles. Consistently moist, humus-rich soil and shelter from drying winds will keep this bog garden favorite perfectly happy. 

16. Primula japonica

• Height: 24in
• Spread: 12in
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/8a

If you are a big fan of Japanese gardens, then you will appreciate these delicate plants, and they also make great plants for wet soil. Hybrids of candelabra Japanese primulas make a fine show flowering in late spring-early summer, although individually they are short-lived. 

For a continuing colony, make sure there is moist, neutral-acidic, humus-rich soil or short, thin grass between the plants. This will allow for successful self-seeding. Primula japonica is perfect for a bog or marshy bed between other plants. 

Shop for primula japonica at Etsy

There is a bit of trial and error involved when growing plants in wet soil, so embrace a combination of careful planting and happy accidents. 

For instance, a Chilean rhubarb (Gunnera manicata) planted only a short distance uphill may fail to reach the magnificent proportions of plants with their feet in a ditch or stream. Snowdrops are happiest clustering beneath trees – while wild daffodils will likely naturalize in nearby meadows.

Get to know your garden’s soil types and identify those areas that are best suited to experimentation.

Growing vegetables or flowers in raised beds gives you the opportunity to create a perfect environment for your plants. You want to ensure the contents of your bed is of a good enough quality for your plants to not only merely survive, but thrive in the bed. 

There are many methods for how to fill a raised garden bed, from simply using a mix of topsoil and compost to no dig techniques of creating a bed using layers of various materials.

Raised garden beds are perfect for a wide range of plants. One of the main advantages of them is being able to control the growing medium to make it ideal for exactly what you want to grow. Getting the right mix is key to happy plants.

What to fill a raised garden bed with

The amount of materials required to fill a raised garden bed will depend ultimately on the height of the raised bed, which is usually from about eight inches to a maximum of 36 inches high. How wide the raised garden bed is will also dictate the amount needed to fill the space.

There is a wide variety of materials that can be used to fill a raised garden bed. The likes of homemade compost, well-rotted manure, topsoil and sand can all be used to create an environment to successfully grow plants in. Alternative materials, including logs, garden waste, cardboard, rocks, and more, can also be used in layers as part of no dig gardening techniques to build raised garden beds.

What is a good raised garden bed soil mix?

A good raised garden bed soil mix will be a combination of topsoil, compost or organic matter, and sand or grit. The combination creates a soil that has good drainage and holds onto water and nutrients, while providing all the vital nutrients for the plants. Around 30-50% of the make-up of the soil can be composed of compost, topped up with good quality topsoil and up to 20% of sand or grit for drainage.

Garden soil can be used in a raised bed, however, Alex Tinsman, a gardener from How To Houseplant, advises it is ‘important to ensure that it's not compacted or contains weeds or pests’ and to make sure you amend it. He adds: ‘It's recommended to mix garden soil with compost to improve its structure and nutrient content. Additionally, if the soil in your garden has been previously used to grow plants, it may be depleted of nutrients, and adding compost will help replenish them.’

It is best to do a soil test before adding any from the backyard to a raised bed, to get a full understanding of its pH and soil type, as taking low-quality soil and adding it to a bed can be a common raised bed gardening mistake to avoid.

How to fill a raised garden bed

The first question to consider when filling is what to put on the bottom of a raised garden bed. There are several options available, though it is advisable to use something that can either smother weeds or boost the drainage of the bed. 

Cardboard or landscape fabric – such as HOOPLE Garden Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric available at Amazon – are common choices to act as the base of a raised bed. These materials can smother weeds beneath them and are especially useful if it is a shorter raised bed or one being made directly on top of a lawn. Using a layer of rocks, gravel, sand or grit can allow for good drainage and help to prevent water from accumulating and sitting at the bottom of the raised garden bed. 

On top of the drainage layer, and forming the bulk of the raised bed, comes the ingredients that will make-up the soil in the bed. Here it is wise to use a combination of compost and topsoil. You can mix in some well-rotted manure or leaf mold into the mix to further boost the level of nutrients in the soil.

Compost is high in organic matter and improves soil structure, water retention, and nutrient availability. It can either be home-made or bought in from reputable retailers to ensure it is of a high-quality and will not be full of weed seeds or other nasties. Topsoil is more balanced soil than compost yet also contains nutrients and organic matter. Widely available to buy in bags or bulk, it is commonly used for filling raised beds or making new borders. 

Both compost and topsoil have benefits, however it is better to use a combination of the two to fill a raised bed rather than one or the other. Traditional approaches recommend a ratio of two-parts topsoil to one-part compost. Ali Adnan, a gardener and senior editor at The Plant Bible, outlines how there are ‘two main approaches to incorporating compost into a raised bed’ and that is mixing or layering. 

He says: ‘Mixing involves thoroughly combining the compost and soil before filling the bed. This can help ensure a more even distribution of nutrients and organic matter throughout the bed. Layering involves adding a layer of compost on top of the soil and allowing it to gradually mix in over time through natural processes. Both approaches can be effective, and the choice depends on personal preference and the specific needs of the plants being grown.’

Fill the raised garden bed right to the top, as the soil will settle over time. This will give your plants the most amount of soil possible to grow in and will be massively beneficial, whether you are planning a kitchen garden, vegetable garden or cut flower garden.

How to layer a raised garden bed

There are specific layering techniques you can use to build raised beds. These are all no dig gardening techniques and can use up lots of different materials to make up the beds.

It can mean they are cheaper alternatives to just filling raised beds with topsoil and compost – the cost of which can add up depending on the size of the beds. The minor disadvantages to some of these techniques is sourcing enough material to make the beds and whether you are able to plant into them straight away.

Josh Tesolin, co-founder of RusticWise, recommends the hügelkultur method of making raised beds. This involves a layer of cardboard, followed by dead leaves or tree branches, and then finally some soil on top of that. 

He says: ‘Using this method, I've gotten away with using fairly poor-quality topsoil and the plants loved it just fine. I wouldn't plant too much the first year as there's a lot of decomposing that needs to happen, but by year two you should be fine.’

Building a lasagna garden bed is similar to the hügelkultur method and you can fill a frame for a raised garden bed using this method. To layer a raised garden bed as a lasagna garden, again start with cardboard then add twigs and small branches. After this are alternate layers of green materials, such as grass clippings, compostable kitchen scraps and weed-free garden waste, and brown materials, such as dried leaves, wood ash, straw or shredded newspaper. 

Again, with this method it is best to wait six months before planting into the bed, though you can top with a thick layer of compost to then start planting right away. 

FAQs

It is all about finding the right method of filling a raised garden bed that works for you and your plants. You may just want to go with compost or topsoil, or lean more towards layered approaches that rely more on various materials decomposing over time – you may not mind waiting a few months before planting. 

Either way you end up with rich beds. However, ensure to use only the best soil and don't cut corners if you want healthy plants with strong blooms or big harvests from your raised beds.

As gardeners, the cusp between late winter and early spring is full of anticipation – the beds that lay bare throughout the colder months are suddenly full of potential as we start planning the flowers and food we want to grow. But before you start planting, there's work to be done to get the soil in the best possible state.

Ruth Hayes, a gardening expert, explains how she's been preparing her beds by raking, adding homemade compost and well-rotted farmyard manure, and ridding them of weeds. 'All this will give existing plants a boost as they get going again after winter and lay the ground for successful seed sowing and germination in a few weeks’ time,' she says.

So, to get your spring garden off to a great start, tick off these jobs below – you'll be welcoming colorful flowers and tasty crops before you know it.

5 ways to get your garden soil ready for the warmer months ahead

Improving garden soil is one of the most important jobs when preparing your garden for spring – here's how to do it successfully.

1. Dig in green manure

Green manure is often used in vegetable gardens and you can buy the seeds from Amazon. It's when fast-growing 'cover crops' such as clover and rye grasses are sown to fill empty beds, and are then cut down and dug into the soil to enrich the ground. They also prevent soil erosion during inclement winter weather as they grow. 

Hardy types of green manure which were planted in the fall can be dug into the ground in early spring. This will give them time to decompose before you start sowing and planting, says Ruth.

2. Mulch your beds

Mulching is a must in early spring and has multiple benefits, including adding nutrients to the soil as it decomposes, and preventing weeds from taking hold. 

'Add a generous layer of well-rotted compost or manure, or even old growbag compost to the borders,' advises Ruth, adding that it will help to improve soil structure.

'Even if bad weather strikes in the next few weeks, which it most probably will, it will work on the mulch, breaking it down and helping to incorporate it into the soil, working in tandem with the worms that are active again after a winter spent hibernating deep down.'

3. Add chicken manure

Another way to improve the fertility of your soil is by adding chicken manure pellets – an all-round fertilizer that contains a good level of nutrients. Be prepared for the smell, though – it's not one to use for your houseplants!

'Dig them in now so they have time to break down before planting and sowing,' recommends Ruth.

4. Start tackling weeds

With the weather warming up, weeds can quickly begin to sprout. Stopping them in their tracks as soon as you spot them will make maintenance much easier in the long run.

'Get into the habit of regularly running a hoe over your borders to remove weed seedlings,' says Ruth. If they start to establish, there are safe ways to get rid of weeds without harming your plants.

5. Put down pest control

Wildlife awakens in spring, so keep an eye out for pests in the soil.

'Welcome garden birds and they will pick off caterpillars and other grubs – that robin is following you around the garden as you turn the soil for a reason!' says Ruth. 

Spring is also the time to apply lawn grub control if you want to keep your grass looking lush and glorious this summer.

Look out for moles, too: the early months of the year are when they announce their presence with hills of soil around the garden. They are more of an inconvenience than anything else, but can be deterred with repellent granules.

Preparing garden soil for spring doesn't take long and it sets your space up for better-performing plants. And if you can't wait to get growing, you can then start warming up the soil for an early start.

Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the main three nutrients needed by plants for strong and healthy growth. Commonly referred to as NPK, each has their own area of specialism in which they help our plants.

The nitrogen is for leafy growth, potassium is for flowers and fruiting, and phosphorus is for healthy plant roots and strong growth. A deficiency in phosphorus in particular is a very common problem that can inhibit a plant’s growth, or ultimately even kill it.

Understanding your soil health and soil types are vitally important if you want your flowers, vegetables, or trees to flourish in your backyard. Rest assured though, that if your soil is short of phosphorus there are methods available to boost those nutrient levels to what your plants are after.

Why should you add phosphorus to soil?

Phosphorus, the P in NPK, primarily promotes the growth of healthy roots and shoots. The roots are vital for both supporting the plant and helping feed the plant by getting nutrients from the soil. Phosphorus also plays a valuable role in photosynthesis and ensuring that crops mature at the correct time – making it highly valuable for your vegetable garden. 

A lack of it can cause plants to look deficient, with dark green or reddish patches on their leaves. Other signs of a phosphorus deficiency can include the foliage turning a dull yellow and the plant overall just growing slower than expected. It most often strikes plants during their early stages (when they are seedlings, for example), and it can be hard to reverse the effects of phosphorus deficiency, but it can hit at any stage of a plant’s life.

If you are struggling with a deficiency of phosphorus, then there are methods out there to boost the levels of phosphorus in the soil. It tends to be heavy clay soil that is most susceptible to low phosphorus levels, though it is always worth testing your soil to find out its type, pH, and nutrient make-up. Soil test kits are readily available at Amazon, and can cost as little as $10-$15. 

5 organic methods for adding phosphorous to soil

There are a variety of methods available to add phosphorus to your soil, both chemical and organic. We take a look at five of the best organic methods to boost your soil’s level of phosphorus and ensure your plants have all the nutrients they need for strong shoots and roots.

1. Bone Meal 

Bone meal is an organic fertilizer that comes in a powder form and that is very high in phosphorus. It is made from steamed animal bones, commonly beef bones, and can be used for all forms of plants, including flowers, vegetables, fruit, trees and shrubs. 

Bone meal can be added at any time from February to November and it is simple to apply. Either mix it in with compost or sprinkle the bone meal over the soil and use a garden fork to mix it in. Always ensure to water the area well after applying. Bone meal is chemical-free and also improves the level of microorganisms in the soil, boosting the overall structure and fertility.

Bone meal is available from Walmart, Burpee and Nature Hills.

2. Rock phosphate 

Rock phosphate is a mined rock that can contain up to 20 per cent phosphorus. It is a slow-release fertilizer and gardeners can benefit from the fact it will add phosphorus for a long period of time. 

Unlike many fertilizers, rock phosphate does not have to be applied annually and can add the nutrient for many years. Rock phosphate is commonly used for both vegetables and in flower beds. It is recommended to apply the fertilizer to your soil in early spring. It can either be incorporated into planting holes or sprinkled over the soil surface and worked in. 

You can buy rock phosphate from Walmart and Amazon. 

3. Fish Meal 

Fish fertilizer is made from byproducts of the fishing industry, including bones, scales and skin. It is an organic fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen and phosphorus and great for boosting foliage and root development. 

Fish meal can come as a liquid or granular fertilizer, so it can either be used as a foliar spray or scattered around the plants in pellet form. Any application of the granular type needs to be worked into the soil and watered in well. Take care, as fish meal can burn plants if it is over-applied. Only apply the fertilizer at the rates specified on the packaging.

You can buy fish fertilizer from Burpee and Nature Hills.

4. Green Manure 

Green manures are crops grown specifically to add nutrients into the ground, cover bare soil, and suppress weeds. They can be an important part of any crop rotation plan. 

Alfalfa is a very popular green manure and a legume that is rich in phosphorus. Buckwheat is another common green manure that can successfully supplement the soil with phosphorus. 

Green manures are often worked into a crop plan and sowed directly when there are bare patches of soil in the vegetable garden. Alfalfa can be sown in fall or spring, while buckwheat is sown in late spring or early summer.

Alfalfa green manure seeds are available from Amazon and Walmart.

5. Animal manure 

Manure has a high concentration of phosphorus and can be used to boost the levels in the soil. Cow, pig, chicken, and horse manure contain lots of phosphorus and are commonly used as an important resource to add important nutrients into the soil for crops. 

When manure is used in the garden, it needs to be well-rotted or added to the compost heap. Fresh manure can have such high levels of both nitrogen and ammonia that it can actually burn the roots of plants if it is added directly. Manure is often dug into the soil prior to planting crops and plants. 

Q: This year, I plan to grow annual and biennial bedding plants from seeds. I want to start the seedlings off indoors, before planting them outside when temperatures are warmer. What is the best soil to use?

A: 'The best compost for sowing seeds of annual and biennial bedding plants is one specifically designed for seeds and cuttings,' explains John Negus of Amateur Gardening magazine. 'These tend to be a finer texture than potting composts which means the seeds don’t get lost in great clumps of compost, and they hold on to water in just the right way.'

What's more, unlike other compost – including homemade compost – they don’t contain too many nutrients – which aren’t necessary until the seedlings get to be a few weeks old.

There are a number of makes of seed and cuttings compost on the market so it might be best to see what is available from your local garden center or DIY store. If you're shopping online, Miracle-Gro Seed Starting Mix and Burpee's Organic Seed Starting Mix, both available at Amazon, are well-rated.

The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) advises using fresh compost each year for seedlings – old compost can be combined with fresh and used in containers planted with more mature plants.

Does soil really make a difference when starting seeds?

It might seem extravagant to start seeds in this kind of compost only to prick them out into multi-purpose compost. But, according to John Negus of Amateur Gardening, it really is the best thing to do for strong and productive plants in your flower beds and containers.

'Once the seedlings are large enough to handle and prick out, you could transfer them to pots of compost with higher nutrient levels designed to support longer-term growth,' says John. 'The best types to use are multi-purpose, peat-free composts which have a light texture for ease of growth and watering, but in this case with slightly higher levels of nutrients to support your seedlings’ rapid growth.'

What is the best soil for sowing vegetable seeds?

There are some vegetable crops that are not suitable for starting in trays or modules and need to be sown directly into the ground outdoors, says Drew Swainston. 'These include root crops such as carrots and parsnips. Both do not like root disturbance and pricking them out, or transplanting them, can damage the roots or cause them to grow in a distorted fashion rather than putting out the straight long roots you are after.'

However, some tender crops, such as tomatoes and aubergines, are best started off indoors and then potted on for growing in a greenhouse, or hardened off before being planted outside. Planting seeds indoors or under cover is also a good way to get a head start with some veggies and get an earlier crop.

For these indoor sowings, Drew recommends using a sterilized seed sowing compost – as with starting annuals and biennials.

Even in the depths of winter, it doesn’t mean it’s too early to start preparing and warming the soil for this year’s plantings in spring.

Although winter is too early in colder zones to sow half-hardy annuals (the first batches will need starting undercover), hardy annuals such as sweet peas, calendula, sunflowers and cornflowers can generally be sown straight into the soil in your flower beds or raised beds. The same goes for weather-resistant broad beans and peas as well as parsnips, spinach, onions, hardy lettuce and spring onions too. 

However, even hardy seeds struggle in damp soil that’s holding onto winter’s cold, so warming the soil in preparation will improve cropping and can also help keep down weeds. 

When should you start warming up soil?

It takes several weeks to raise the temperature of the soil to where it’s suitable for strong and successful germination, so the middle to end of winter is a good time to cover raised beds and growing borders with a variety of insulating materials. 

In general, I would advise using the below techniques around six weeks before planting your seeds or young plants, and be prepared to cover them with insulating frost protection fabric (available from Amazon) or some other protective cover if your garden is hit by late frosts. Dense clay soils take even longer to warm up, so give yourself extra time.

Before starting to warm your soil, however, make sure it is damp otherwise the covering will hold off the rain and it will be too dry for planting and sowing. Also enrich it with well-rotted compost or manure, or fork in some chicken manure fertilizer.

3 easy ways to warm up soil before planting seeds

As well as using fleecy horticultural freeze protection, tunnel cloches and glass or plastic cloche domes, I also recycle household items including old compost bags, carpet offcuts and cardboard boxes saved from Christmas.

Alongside warming the soil, the plastic bags, carpet and cardboard will also help to get rid of weeds by blocking their growth, which will make sowing and planting in February easier.

1. Use glass or plastic cloches

Cloches are a cheap and commonplace way of warming areas of soil and also protecting young plants. There are two main varieties: tunnel cloches, which are made of plastic or fleece material, and bell or lantern cloches made from glass or plastic.

Tunnel cloches, such as this seedling tunnel from Amazon, are perfect for longer stretches of soil where you are planning to sow seeds or grow plants from seedlings. They have the added benefit of keeping birds off tender and tasty leaves once the seedlings start to grow too.

Single cloches are ideal to use for warming individual spots of soil and protecting plants from frost, especially young and newly sprouted tender plants.

Glass cloches can be expensive, but they are heavy enough to withstand the weather and are likely to stay put, even in ferocious storms. However, they can be broken and you don't want shards of glass littering the garden.

Plastic dome cloches, like this HTG one from Amazon, are more wallet-friendly but need to be anchored down as they are lightweight and easy to dislodge in stormy weather. Many will come with pre-punched holes in the rim so you can secure them with pegs or stakes.

2.  Cover soil with old cardboard boxes

Cheap and cheerful, if not terribly pretty to look at, flattened cardboard boxes are an easy way to warm the soil ahead of sowing flower or vegetable seeds. What's more, cardboard is an effective weed control as it blocks the light and suppresses their growth.  

Carpet offcuts are also ideal for holding in the heat, and I also use them as insulation on our compost heap and leaf mold bins. As with cardboard, it can help to suppress weed growth too.

Make sure you weigh down your cardboard and carpets with bricks so that they stay put in bad weather.

3. Reuse compost bags and packaging

If space is tight and you are keen to grow as much as possible, raised garden beds are an ideal option. If you already have one or more raised beds in place, the soil within them is easy to warm using old compost bags.

If you only remember to do this at the last minute and don't have very long to warm the soil before sowing your seeds, my tip is to turn the bags inside out so the black surface faces upwards and absorbs maximum sun and heat.

What soil takes the longest to warm up?

Of all the soil types, clay takes longer to warm through than lighter substrates. If you have clay soil in your flower beds or vegetable garden, you may have more success starting your seeds in pots and modules in your glasshouse or on a kitchen windowsill and planting them out later in the season once the soil has warmed up naturally. 

Soil is an important component in successfully growing fiddle leaf figs, so make sure you choose the best soil mix for your plant’s needs. With the right soil and proper care, your fiddle will reward you with lustrous growth and beautiful leaves. Put your plant in the wrong soil, however, and the results will show up pretty soon as you'll find the leaves droop, go brown or even drop off completely.

Finding a well-draining soil mix that allows proper drainage and aeration is key as this means your plant's roots have freedom to spread. Nail this and your work is done, as you'll find your fiddle thrives happily in the same soil for many months. Your options include following an expert soil mix recipe, making up your own custom blend, or buying a pre-mixed product off the shelf. 

Happily we've got all three options covered, so take your pick and make sure that when it comes to fiddle leaf fig care, you've got it sorted. 

What is the best fiddle leaf fig soil?

A good-quality fiddle leaf fig soil is one that drains well and contains a good mix of organic material, such as compost, peat moss, and perlite to provide adequate aeration and drainage. Indeed, poor drainage can be one of the key reasons why your fiddle leaf fig leaves turn brown, so look out for this telltale sign. 

'The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH level between 5.5 and 6.5,' explains James Rivenburg of plantandpest. But fiddles aren’t too picky and can generally handle a pH that is a bit outside this range.

The correct soil recipe can make a massive difference to the overall health and appearance of your indoor plant. Fiddle plants prefer soils that are high in organic matter, as it helps retain moisture and nutrients. 'A good soil mix for a fiddle leaf fig should contain one part compost, one part peat moss, one part perlite and one part sand,' says James. This mix will provide the plant with all the nutrients and moisture it needs to grow and thrive.

When planting your fiddle leaf fig, be sure to add a slow-release fertilizer to the soil, as this will provide the plant with a steady supply of the necessary nutrients for healthy growth. It's a good idea to include water storing crystals as well, such as these Miracle Gro ones on Amazon, to improve moisture retention without letting the soil become overly wet. 

Alternatively try a pre-mixed fiddle leaf fig compost, like this one from Perfect Plants on Amazon, which is a mix of coconut coir, pine bark, perlite and sand to create the right balance of water and air. 

Can you make your own fiddle leaf fig soil mix?

The ideal soil mix for a fiddle leaf fig plant is not necessarily a case of one size fits all and you might find your individual plant's needs are different according to its location in the house and the temperature. 

Even after choosing a type of soil for your fiddle plant you will need to monitor it to ensure it responds well. If you see your plant is flagging, you will need to replant it in new soil as soon as possible. Clues that all is not well include drooping leaves, your plant shedding leaves and brown pigmentation on leaves. 

If this is the case it's a good idea to experiment with different ratios of ingredients in your soil mix.  

In general, potting mixes comprise three key ingredients: a base such as coir or pine bark, compost to provide plant nutrients, and perlite, sand or other to help drainage. I like playing around with different combos and also try to make my own mix as sustainable as possible as it's often hard to work out what's in shop-bought soil mix.

I'm not too scientific about getting the exact mix right and instead aim for a light and airy mix that's a good balance of ingredients. And it seems to work just fine.

Can you use regular potting soil for fiddle leaf figs?

Regular potting soil does not have the right pH balance for a fiddle leaf fig, nor does it provide the proper drainage, so it's not a good idea to use it. Instead find a soil mixture that drains well as fiddle plants don't like sitting in water. This is why a potting mix that doesn’t hold too much moisture is your best choice. 

'Regular potting soil is not ideal for growing fiddle leaf figs since they tend to need more essential nutrients,' says Alex Tinsman of howtohouseplant.com. Instead, you should use a soil specifically designed for fiddle leaf figs. This type of soil will provide the right pH balance and proper drainage necessary to ensure your fiddle stays healthy. 

If you're stuck and only have some regular potting mix handy and want to use it for your fiddle, just add an ingredient like perlite or sand to increase drainage. 

Do fiddle leaf figs need their soil changing regularly?

The good news is that although fiddle leaf figs are easy indoor plants that grow tall pretty quickly, you will only need to freshen up the soil every couple of years when you repot your plant. 

If you've had your plant for a while the best thing to do is gently ease it out of its pot to see what's going on with the roots. If the roots are packed and coiled tightly round it means your plant is root bound and it's time for fresh soil and a larger pot if your plant's going to thrive. The best time to re-pot and change out the soil is in spring, which can also be a good time to clean your fiddle leaf fig leaves too. 

Stick with the formula of finding the best soil for a fiddle leaf fig and you'll soon see the benefits with a super-healthy plant.

You might be seeking to make your garden soil more acidic for a number of reasons. Whether your flower bed isn't growing well or you're looking to start growing new plants that require a lower pH, amending your soil to make it more acidic is easy to do.

All plants need nourishment to thrive, which is why understanding different soil types is vital to us gardeners. Plants get many nutrients from soil, so knowing the make-up of your soil (acidic, neutral or alkaline) is crucial to understanding which plants will grow best in your yard. If plants fail to thrive, they wilt or their leaves turn yellow, it might be a sign that they need a soil amendment. For acidic-loving plants, this means providing supplements to amend the pH of the soil and make it more acidic.

It might sound technical but cracking soil health is pretty straightforward once you know the basics. Luckily, there are several ways to make soil more acidic and we've compiled an expert guide to help you get started.

How to understand if you need to make your soil more acidic

Analyzing soil types is much easier than it sounds. Finding out how to test the pH of soil enables you to determine whether it's acid or alkaline, and can be done with a simple soil test kit, such as this one available from Amazon. Soil pH varies from around 3.5 (very acidic) to 8.5 (alkaline). A reading of 7.0 is neutral. A reading of less than 7.0 is considered acidic.

If you discover you have a more neutral or slightly acidic result when you do the test it's good news, as amending the soil to make it more acidic is much easier than if you have a very alkaline soil.

You could also consider growing acid-loving plants in pots, containers or raised garden beds as an easier solution. Amending a small area like this is far easier than altering the pH in a bigger space. Alternatively, you could consider creating a separate area of acidic soil within your garden to accommodate acid-loving plants.

Unsure about your soil's pH level? Shop soil testing kits

How to make soil more acidic - a quick look

There are two ways to make your soil more acidic: add amendments or use organic methods.

Amendments include:

• Sulfur
• Aluminum sulfate
• Iron sulfate
• Sphagnum peat moss
• Ammonium-rich fertilizer
• Vinegar or lemon when watering plants

Organic methods include:

• Mulching
• Spreading pine needles or oak leaves
• Making compost tea
• Adding acidic ingredients in your compost
• Using coffee grounds on soil

Let's look at each of these expert methods individually, to understand how to adjust your soil's pH and make your soil more acidic, and which one will work best for you.

1. Use organic mulch on your soil

Although most types of mulch and compost make the soil less acidic, there are a couple of options you can try that will actually increase soil acidity. Mulching to make soil more acidic is part of a longer-term plan though, so don't expect to see instant results.

Try adding organic mulches of pine needles or oak leaves around acid-loving plants to make sure that the soil remains at the right pH level over time. As these break down, they should slowly acidify the soil. You can find organic pine straw mulch at Walmart. And the pine bark mulch available from Amazon is also highly recommended.

If you have conifers in your yard, these can also help to make the soil more acidic once their foliage rots down. So if you have hedge plants that have been dropping leaves on the soil, it is likely they will have lowered the pH by some degree over time.

Besides helping to make your soil more acidic, using organic mulch on your plants will also regulate temperature and retain moisture, among other benefits.

2. Add sulfur to your soil

This is the go-to method when it comes to making soil more acidic, especially as it's usually the fastest way to get results. It's a good option as it lasts for years in the soil, where organisms convert it into sulfuric acid and acidify the soil.

'Sulfur can be found as elemental sulfur, a yellow powder that can be applied directly to the soil,' says plant expert Diana Cox of thegardeningtalk.com. 'Following the recommended application rate for sulfur is essential, as too much can harm plants. Another way to use sulfur is by incorporating organic matter high in sulfur, such as peat moss or pine straw, into the soil.'

Sulfur, available at Amazon, won't instantly lower the soil pH and it could take around a year to see results. Ideally it should be added to your soil before you get planting, around the summer or fall before the following spring planting season. It works best if you dig it deep into the soil, but doesn't work if you try to dig it in around existing plants.

3. Apply iron sulfate to your soil

Much like aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, otherwise known as ferrous sulfate (such as this one from Amazon), has a similar acidifying capacity and is used as a soil amendment for lowering the pH of a high alkaline soil, so plants can more readily access the soil's nutrients. It typically fixes yellowing plant leaves caused by iron deficiency.

If your camellias, rhododendrons or azaleas are looking a little yellow and tired, an application of iron sulfate should perk them up. Most garden centers stock ferrous sulfate, but as you need eight times as much compared to sulfur, it can work out more expensive.

4. Use sphagnum peat moss

Although this shouldn't be relied on as a sole method of making your soil more acidic, sphagnum peat moss does have acidic qualities that will help to slightly acidify soil.

This makes sphagnum peat moss one of the best potting mixes for container gardening if you are trying to grow plants that particularly love acidic soil. It will be easier to turn potted soil acidic because of its smaller, contained capacity, and using sphagnum peat moss in this context can be effective.

If you are trying to use sphagnum peat moss - the Miracle-Gro moss from Walmart can be used in containers or in the ground - to make your soil more acidic, it's best to use large quantities. It's also wise to pair sphagnum peat moss with organic mulch for an effective acidic soil amendment.

5. Opt for ammonium-rich fertilizers

Another easy way to increase the acidity of your soil is by using the right fertilizers. One of the biggest fertilizing mistakes is not choosing a product with the best NPK plant fertilizer numbers for your plant's needs.

Ammonium-based fertilizers, like this ammonium sulfate fertilizer from Amazon, will quickly turn soil acidic - in fact, it's one of the most effective ways to make soil more acidic.

Thanks to the microorganisms in the soil which convert the ammonium to nitrate, using these types of fertilizers produces acidity in the soil.

You should, however, only apply fertilizer when your plants are actively growing. Failing to do so could cause oversaturation and lead to root rot or burn.

6. Use acidic ingredients in your compost

Well-decomposed compost helps lower the pH of garden soil over time, too. Be sure to include acidic organic matter such as oak leaves, pine needles or coffee grounds to the mix, as well as some other unusual compost ingredients that have acidic properties.

You can also speed up composting to make your soil acidic more quickly. This includes opting for the hot composting method, using heat and moisture to break down compost materials more quickly.

If you're new to composting, try using this organic compost starter from Amazon to get your compost going.

7. Make compost tea

You can take your composting further by making compost tea - not to be mistaken with composting tea bags. This provides you with two sources to make soil more acidic.

It simple involves adding well-rotted, acidic compost to a container of water and stirring it. You should then strain it to separate the liquid and solid using this compost sifter from Amazon.

Using the solid material for mulching and the water to water your plants and soil.

8. Use aluminum sulfate

When the results of your pH test show your soil to be more alkaline than your plants like, another option to lower the pH is aluminum sulfate. It's also what you need to use if you want to acidify soil to change hydrangea color. It's widely available at any garden center or you can buy aluminium sulphate at Amazon.

Mix ¼ oz aluminum sulfate with a gallon of water and soak the soil surrounding your hydrangeas in spring, as soon as the plant begins to grow. Maintain the acidity during the growing season, so reapply in four weeks time, then again in eight weeks.

9. Experiment with vinegar or lemon when watering plants

If you like the idea of natural solutions, this easy fix can be used to gently acidify soil around plants. Try watering acid-loving plants in pots, containers or raised garden beds with an acidifying liquid feed. It's particularly good for rhododendrons and azaleas.

Vinegar is a liquid form of acetic acid, so adding it to soil naturally lowers the pH and increases its acidity. The pH of grocery store white vinegar is 2.4, meaning it's highly acidic. You can even get white vinegar from Amazon. Use it in moderation, watering your plants with a mix of 1 cup of vinegar diluted in 1 gallon of water.

Adding diluted lemon juice once a month to the soil also makes it more acidic. It can also help keep neutral soils more friendly for acid-loving plants, including rhododendrons. Add two tablespoons of lemon juice to one gallon of water and pour directly onto the soil. Be careful as splashing the plant's leaves can burn them.

Talking of watering plants, it is also better to use rainwater rather than tap water, which tends to be alkaline and can actually raise the pH level of soil over time. 'Use a rain barrel or other collection method to retain as much rainwater as possible to use on your plants,' says Drew Swainston, gardens content editor for Homes & Gardens.

'Acid-loving plants can be watered with tap water, but ensure it is only for a short period of time as possible. Extended use can lead to their leaves starting to turn yellow. The addition of lemon or vinegar to tap water can help to lower the pH of the water.'

10. Use coffee grounds in soil

Using coffee grounds on plants can be a good option for acid-loving varieties. Coffee grounds are highly acidic, so they will lower the pH of your soil. They are also rich in nutrients, especially nitrogen, as well as traces of potassium and phosphorus. So adding coffee grounds to your garden as a general fertilizer also works well.

'Coffee grounds have a pH of around 6.5, which makes them an excellent soil amendment for plants that prefer slightly acidic soil,' says horticulturalist Brody Hall of The Indoor Nursery.

'To use coffee grounds to acidify potting soil, it is best to compost or mix it through the soil and let it sit for a week or two. Applying coffee grounds directly to the soil or sprinkling them around the base of plants may attract molds and other pathogens that can affect plant health.'

11. Spread pine needs or oak leaves

Another organic method to make soil more acidic is adding plant material that has a high acidic content - pine needles and oak leaves, for example.

No matter which of the best pine trees you grow, when you go prune them or collect their fallen needles, you should spread them across your soil. Likewise, do this with oak tree leaves.

As they decompose, they will feed nutrients to your soil. Something to note, however, is to not rely on this method alone.

This is because the acidity of pine needles and oak leaves is neutralized over time as microbes break them down, meaning they will have minimal impact in making soil more acidic on their own.

FAQs

Which types of plants need acidic soil?

Some of the most popular flowering plants, such as rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias, magnolias and hydrangeas, love acid soil so it's worth finding out how to make soil more acidic if you love these varieties. They will suffer if soil is too alkaline, so look out for any warning signs that plants are ailing - such as yellowing leaves.

If you have previously had little success growing these plants in the ground, you could try planting them in outdoor planters instead filled with ericaceous compost, available at Amazon.

Heathers like acidic soil, as do the shrubs gaultheria, pyracantha and pieris. Alliums and lilies tick the acid-loving box when it comes to summer flowers.

Which vegetables need acidic soil?

Most vegetables do well in soil with a pH or acidity level that falls into the neutral range of 6.5 to 7. Some vegetables, however, grow better in soil that falls slightly below that range and that is considered mildly acidic or 'sour'.

Vegetable plants that do best in mildly acidic soil include carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, garlic, sweet peppers, pumpkins, winter squash and tomatoes.

Vegetables that prefer acid soil such as potatoes need a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5, which is slightly below the neutral range of 6.5 to 7.0.

By making your soil more acidic, fruit bushes such as blackcurrants, blueberries and cranberries will thrive too and deliver great tasting crops.

Soil health really is fundamental to gardening success, and will pay dividends in your garden or yard. You should also familiarize yourself with essential plant nutrients for growing success. If you need to learn how to boost your soil nutrients, you might find our expert guide useful.

All houseplants are susceptible to pests, however, bugs that find a home in your houseplant’s soil can be hard to spot and could be tricky to remove. 

Unlike some common houseplant pests that tend to be found on your plant itself, bugs that burry into houseplant soil can go unnoticed for a long period. 'When it comes to houseplants, bugs and other unwanted pests are one of their biggest threats if left untreated, chewing through the leaves, roots, and even stealing precious nutrients from the soil,' explains Tom Hilston, indoor gardening expert at National Greenhouse. 'Aphids, fungus gnats, spider mites, and whiteflies are just some of the most common of these critters, all of which can cause some serious damage.' The remedy for bugs in houseplant soil, however, is multifaceted and should work for most types of bugs. 

Here, experts have offered their advice for removing these pests so that you can go on decorating with plants without the fear of uncontrollable infestations.  

How to get rid of bugs from houseplant soil naturally  

Even the best indoor plants can be prone to infestation, but there are ways to remove these pests naturally without using harsh chemicals that could harm your plants or members of your household. 

It is a good idea to regularly check your houseplants for infestations, even if they are classed as low-maintenance houseplants, as spotting bugs early can save you a lot of time and energy in the long run. It is particularly important to check your houseplants for bugs in the colder months as the conditions are often just right for pests to thrive indoors. Learning how to care for house plants in winter is essential for a thriving greenery collection. 

To check for bugs in your houseplant soil, pay close attention to the surface of the soil when watering. Often, when a soil infestation is present, small bugs will come to the surface of the pot as you water it. 

'All pests have some indicator of being present,' Tom continues. 'Fungus gnats, for example, will scatter if the plant is shaken, easily revealing an infestation. Spider mites are trickier to spot, only really being visible if you transfer some soil to a piece of kitchen paper, while aphids and whiteflies are clearly visible on the plant and soil itself. It’s vital to keep a close eye on all of your plant-based pals for early signs of infestation, as it’ll be far easier to remove them before they take proper hold.'

1. Water with a hydrogen peroxide solution  

Hydrogen peroxide is a mild antiseptic and a great disinfectant that is safe for a variety of household uses. When mixed with water to create a solution, the mixture can kill bacteria, fungi, viruses, and pests.

To use hydrogen peroxide on your plants, combine three parts water with one part 3% hydrogen peroxide. Not only will the disinfectant properties of the hydrogen peroxide kill any bugs and their larvae, but also add oxygen to the soil to promote healthy root growth. You can also use this solution in spray form to treat bugs that have migrated to your plant's leaves. It is not recommended to use a hydrogen peroxide solution that is higher than 10% as this can kill or otherwise damage your plants. 

How often you should water your indoor plants is a common question and can depend on the type of houseplants that you have. When watering with hydrogen peroxide it is best to use the solution occasionally and water with plain water, or rainwater, in between to prevent causing damage to your plant's roots through over-exposure or over-oxygenating your soil.  

2. Use diatomaceous earth  

Diatomaceous earth is a finely ground powder made from fossilized algae. Although it might not sound like the most amazing addition to your houseplants, the substance can lacerate the shells of bugs and dry them out as well as allow water to flow through to the soil. 

Layer a thin coverage of earth along the top of your houseplant soil as well as on the drainage tray to catch any bugs as they crawl or wash out of your houseplant pot. Using diatomaceous earth alongside the hydrogen peroxide solution is a great way to flush out an infestation. 

3. Allow the soil to dry out  

After flushing bugs out from your soil, it is a good idea to dry it out thoroughly to ensure your soil health. Placing the plant outside in the sun for short periods is a great way to do this, as well as holding off watering for a few days. Moist soil is the ideal location for larvae and eggs to thrive.

This is a great method of getting rid of pests such as gnats, explains Gardening-Guru at Miracle-Gro, Kate Turner. ‘Fungus gnats are tiny black scariad flies. They are usually more of a nuisance than a pest, although their larvae can damage seedlings. To avoid them, make sure your compost isn’t too wet as they love moist warm conditions. If your plants do attract gnats, allow the compost to fully dry out before watering and add very fine grit to the surface. You may have to re-pot your plant if they are persistent.’  

4. Prevent the spread of houseplant soil bugs 

The best way to treat infestations is to prevent them in the first place. Isolating houseplants as soon as an infestation of bugs in the soil has been found is a great way to ensure that any escaping bugs do not make their way into neighboring pots. 'Neem oil is your best friend,' says Tom. 'This, mixed with water in a spray bottle, is a weapon of mass destruction as far as pests are concerned. Some quick spraying on the affected areas is recommended, as the mixture breaks down the outer layers of the insects.'

What’s more, moving the plants will allow you to thoroughly clean the area the infestation started, allowing you to catch any bugs that have fallen or left the pot before moving it. 

Regularly using a nontoxic, organic pesticide such as neem oil on your plants can also prevent infestations from getting out of hand. Using organic pest control has a multitude of benefits over toxic pesticides such as maintaining the pet-friendly status of the best pet-friendly plants, or generally protecting the environment. 

Why are there bugs in my plant soil?  

There are a few reasons why your soil may have bugs. Indoor plants are just as prone to insects as outdoor plants and may even have worse infestations due to the lack of ‘good’ bugs such as ladybirds who typically remove pests such as aphids and leave your plants alone. 

Bugs usually get into your home through open doors or windows, on new plant additions, through already infested potting soil, or on your clothes and shoes. Unfortunately, it is near impossible to prevent bugs from entering your home. Taking infestation prevention steps such as using homemade bug sprays and natural insecticides, as well as finding the right balance of water to give your plants to prevent moist soil, can all help prevent full-blown infestations.  

How do you debug potting soil? 

An alternative way to debug large amounts of potting soil at once is to submerge it completely in slightly warm water. Allow the soil to sit submerged for around 10 minutes to forcefully evict any bugs from the soil. 

It is good to let this soil thoroughly dry out before watering it again. 

Wondering what soil you should put in a raised garden bed? While your choice of soil may not seem important in comparison to other raised garden bed ideas (such as your choice of plants), it is a surprisingly vital factor with an impact on your entire garden. So, when looking at how to build a raised garden bed, it is a good idea to bring soil to the top of your priority list. 

But what should you put in a raised bed? Here are the natural solutions that the experts are using in their gardens. 

What soil should you put in a raised garden bed? 

According to H&G's garden expert Rachel Crow, it is best to avoid taking soil from your yard or regular garden bed because it is too dense for a raised bed or container. 'For containers, I opt for purpose-made potting soil, such as this one from Amazon, which is lightweight and better for your raised plot.'However, for a raised bed, experts recommend an ancient solution named Hugelkultur – made from organic matter and natural materials.

Using the Hugelkultur method in your raised garden bed

Hugelkultur is an ancient method of gardening that involves creating layers to allow decomposition to take place below the soil. This provides nutrients to the plants growing above. Expert John.D Thomas from Backyard Garden Geek recommends using the method in your raised garden ideas – suggesting it is a simple and accessible solution that is entirely sustainable. But what does the process involve?

1. Collect organic matter

'Instead of filling your entire raised bed with soil, fill the bottom of the bed with all kinds of natural materials from your yard,' John says. This can be anything from logs, branches, sticks, leaves, grass clippings, or even compostable food scraps from the kitchen. 'Just be sure to leave room for at least 6" of soil, which you'll add once you've filled up the bottom of your raised bed,' he says.

'Over time, all the materials you placed at the bottom of your raised bed will rot and decompose, providing minerals and nutrients for your plants and attracting earthworms and other good bugs to your bed.'

2. Add soil to your raised garden bed

After filling the bottom of your raised bed with the appropriate natural materials, it is time to add soil to the bed. It is best to buy soil that is formulated for veggie growing as this will elevate your vegetable garden ideas over time. 

'If you've got a smaller raised bed, simply purchase 2-3 bags of decent potting soil plus 1-2 bags of compost. Then mix them and cover all of the branches, leaves, and grass clippings completely,' John instructs. 

3. Plant strategically

One thing to remember with the Hugelkultur method is that the order of your planting matters. 'If you're using this method, be sure to put plants with shallow root systems in the bed that first year since they'll have a relatively meager area to grow in,' John says. 

However, after the first year, much of the material in the bottom of the bed will have rotted – leaving lots of space for various other plants. 'Over time, the bed will sink a bit as the material at the bottom decomposes. Once you notice that, simply add more soil to the top and continue gardening,' the expert adds. 

What is the best soil mix for raised garden beds?

We recommend the Hugelkultur method as a way to promote great raised garden bed health. However, Rachel also suggests following a ratio of 60% topsoil. 30% compost and 10% Potting soil. The latter is not soil but a combination of peat moss and perlite that is beneficial to the ground. 

Can you use regular soil for raised garden beds?

Yes, you can in theory, but it's better to choose a more specific alternative, such as the purpose-made potting soil, whether you use the Hugelkultur method or not. This formula will retain moisture to bring nutrients to your plants' roots and promote healthy growth all season long. 

Wondering how to add calcium to your soil? While the benefits of calcium in the human body are clear – it is less known that our plants need this element just as much as our teeth and bones. And while you may know how to improve calcium levels in your diet, it is less known how to introduce this element into your garden ideas. 

However, these solutions are natural, accessible, and entirely expert-approved. And they're probably already hiding in your fridge or kitchen cupboard. Here's what you need to know. 

How does calcium affect plants and soil?

Calcium is just one of many essential minerals in your soil, and too little – or too much calcium – directly impacts your plant health. The element is needed to encourage strong cell walls that ensure the plant grows upright. This allows other minerals to reach your plants, making them less prone to diseases and pests. 

However, before experimenting with these solutions, garden experts warn that too much calcium can be just as damaging to your plants. H&G's garden editor, Rachel Crow, explains that high calcium levels coincide with a high pH, which means the soil is too alkaline. 

'Before you add calcium to your soil, I recommend undergoing a professional soil test (offered by The Cooperative State Research, Education, and Extension Services) to check how much calcium your garden needs,' she says. 'It is best to maintain a calcium percent base saturation level of 70 to 80 percent for optimum health.' 

You can also test the pH of soil with DIY kits.

How much calcium do plants need?

Calcium is best absorbed by plants when the soil is slightly acidic. To achieve this, you'll need to aim for a pH level of 6.0-6.5. 2,' says Simon Barker from Grow Your Yard. 'If your soil lacks calcium, you can add it in the form of limestone, bone meal, or compost,' the expert says. These expert-approved solutions are the best way to add calcium to your soil or compost. 

How to add calcium to soil – organic ways to cure deficiency

1. Egg shells

You may already know that using eggs in the garden has its benefits – whether you're using it as mulch or to deter pests. However, they are also a great way to add calcium to soil. 

To do so, expert Emma Loker from DIY Garden reccommends storing your empty eggshells in a sealed container for two days or until they have dried out completely. You should then use your best food processor to grind your eggshells to a fine powder. 'The finer the texture, the better,' Emma says. 

'Mix your eggshell powder with your soil two weeks before planting. Doing this will allow the soil time to absorb the calcium.'

Meanwhile, if you're looking to add calcium to soil with plants that are already in place, you can create a calcium solution by adding two tablespoons of eggshell powder to four liters of water before pouring it over your plants. 

2. Crushed oysters

'Crushed oyster shells are the best way to add calcium to your lawn or garden quickly,' says garden expert Jeff Neal. He recommends crushing the shells before spreading them in your garden. 'They can be applied by a rototiller before an anticipated rainfall,' he says. However, their benefits don't end there. 

'Oyster shells also have micronutrient minerals as well and can provide calcium benefits throughout the entire season,' the expert adds. 

What product adds calcium to soil?

You can cure calcium deficiency in plants with lime. 'It is vital to invest in a water-soluble calcium source, such as this one from Amazon, to allow the nutrients to reach your plants,' Rachel suggests. 'This product is suitable for increasing the pH, boosting large and small garden ideas, and improving soil health quickly.' 

How do you make homemade calcium for plants?

The easiest way to make calcium at home is by using the eggshell method above. However, you can also use eggs to make a homemade spray, too. Home and garden expert Laurice Constantine suggests boiling 20 eggs in a pan with 1 gallon of water covered can produce calcium spray for plants with eggshells. You should then bring the mixture to a boil before turning down the heat and letting the solution cool for 24 hours. 

'Remove the shell fragments from the water, then store them in an airtight container in a cool, dark location,' Laurice says. Your mixture is then ready to be sprayed onto your plants and soil. 

When it comes to planting, you would be forgiven for reusing garden soil in your pots. This rich organic material is readily available – and appears to contain all the nutrients your plants may crave for the best start in life. 

However, garden experts have revealed that using soil in pots is a deceivingly dangerous garden idea that will hinder your plant's health in the long term. Here’s what you need to know. 

Why using soil in pots will impact your plants' health

‘Garden soil is soil that is specifically meant for use in outdoor gardens. It is usually a mixture of loam, sand, and clay, and it is often enriched with organic matter such as compost or manure,’ explains the founder of Gardening Boost, Rodger St. Hilaire. 

However, while this mixture is beneficial for gardens, says Rodger, it doesn’t cater to the needs of your container plants. 

‘Using garden soil in pots is not ideal. The reason is that it tends to dry out more quickly than other types of soil and it can become compacted in pots,’ Rodger says. This makes it harder for plant roots to grow and access the nutrients they need – meaning your container gardening ideas' health will be impacted in a few ways… 

1. Using soil in pots will lead to nutrient problems

Garden expert and founder of Urban Organic Yield, Lindsey Hyland, warns that there are several downsides to using soil from your garden in your pots. However, the most significant problem is that the soil’s pH is not ideal for container plants. This can, therefore, lead to nutrient deficiencies that will negatively impact your plants' health. 

2. Using soil in pots can cause bacterial and fungal spread

Another problem with using soil in your containers is that the soil may contain harmful bacteria or fungi that could infect your plants and cause them to die. 

If you have no choice but to use garden soil, Rodger urges you to sterilize it first by cooking it in the oven. This should limit the bacteria in the container and allow your plant to flourish with less chance of running into problems. 

3. Garden soil is too dense for healthy growth 

‘Garden soil is often too dense for pots, which can cause water to pool on the soil's surface and prevent it from draining properly. This can lead to root rot and other plant problems,’ Rodger explains. Therefore, while this natural solution may be good for your flower bed ideas, you should avoid using them in pots and invest in potting soil that is made for the job. 

The season of planting with the right soil begins now.

No dig gardening, at its simplest, involves mulching soil with compost, rather than laboriously digging it over, thereby boosting the soil's natural eco-system.

There are many benefits to this method of no till gardening, which can save gardeners time as it cuts out the need to spend hours weeding and digging over beds and borders.

It will also help you achieve bigger and better plants and crops, so add it to your list of garden ideas and jump onto the #nodig garden movement.

What is the no dig gardening method?

No dig gardening is a type of permaculture gardening where you do not till or dig over the soil. 

A popular method for an organic vegetable garden, no dig garden plants can also be used for ornamental flower bed ideas.

'No dig leaves soil undisturbed, and instead you feed the masses of soil life with organic matter on the surface, as happens in nature, to maintain drainage and aeration,' explains the pioneer of no dig gardening and world authority on the subject, Charles Dowding.

The organic matter, such as homemade compost, well-rotted manure, leaf mulch or other compostable materials will, over time, decompose as the soil organisms get to work breaking it down and incorporating it into the soil. 

What are the advantages of no dig gardening?

There are many advantages of no dig gardening. 

Charles Dowding has been using the no dig gardening method in his gardens for 40 years, and on a range of different soil types. 'Mulching the soil to feed its microorganisms turns on the tap of making food and moisture available to plants, as well as improving soil structure,' he explains. If you combine with other organic gardening methods, such as companion planting, you should nurture a thriving garden.

The benefits of no till gardening include:

• Soil drainage and aeration is improved, in an easy and long-lasting way;
• No dig garden beds require less watering;
• The simple no dig gardening method requires less work, effort and time as a gardener;
• It results in fewer weeds – 'fewer weeds germinate in undisturbed soil, and compost mulches on the surface make it easier to pull weeds,' explains Charles;
• Plants are healthier and more resilient with no till gardening;
• Soil health is improved since carbon is retained in the soil;
• Its kinder to the environment so ideal if you're looking for ways to create an eco-friendly garden;
• It improves soil structure and deters slugs.

It might seem a contradiction to some gardeners that not digging would actually result in fewer weeds. However the truth is borne out by years of successful results.

'When you dig into the soil you uproot an untold number of viable weed seeds. Once those seeds receive sunlight and warmth, they'll begin to sprout, which means that traditional tilling practices generate far more weeds than no-till methods do, requiring additional time and labor and potentially stealing nutrients from your garden plants,' explains John Thomas, owner of Backyard Garden Geek.

'Weeds are part of soil’s recovery mechanism, and like all organisms that are alive, soil is happier when it is not disturbed and damaged,' adds Charles.

How do I start no dig?

To start no dig gardening, 'give yourself plenty of planning time for picking your site and beginning to prepare for planting,' advises New England based homesteader Suzan of It's My Sustainable Life.

Charles Dowding recommends starting small with just one bed, such as a 4x8ft (1.2 x 2.4m) bed, filled with 6in/15cm compost. 'It can simply be on top of some unused grass, with the grass and weeds left in place, compost on top is sufficient to smother them, with no digging needed,' he adds.

1. Put down a weed suppressing barrier. 

Once you have decided on the beds or areas you wish to convert to no dig, the first step is to cover the area with a weed suppressing barrier. 

Charles Dowding recommends using light-excluding mulches, such as biodegradable brown cardboard, in the first year to kill perennial weeds, as this saves time in the long run.

2. Add organic mulch.

'Build up the soil by layering both brown organic materials – carbon-rich choices such as leaves, shredded paper or cardboard – and green organic materials, including nitrogen-rich fresh grass cuttings or plant prunings, each layer about 3-5 inches deep,' advises Suzan. 

Charles advises using compost as the main mulch, which will add the necessary microbes to begin decomposition. He also cautions against using wooden sided raised beds, 'to reduce slug hiding places.'

3. Plant

'When first beginning with no dig gardening, the soil remains fairly shallow. For the first sowings or plantings, plan shallow rooted plants or crops, such as growing lettuce and leafy greens, radish, arugula, boc choi, cabbage, kale, chard, and onions, advises Suzan.

'In subsequent years, the layers you first added into your no dig garden bed with be broken down a bit and better able to support more deep rooted crops, such as if you're growing carrots, garlic, chard, mustard, peppers, peas and legumes.

You will need to top up the layer of compost or organic matter to the top of the bed season after season.

Charles Dowding runs online Seed to Harvest courses that focus on how to grow specific vegetables following a no dig practice.

Why is no dig good for soil?

No dig gardening is good for soil because 'it focuses on protecting and nourishing the natural life of soil, encouraging worms, beneficial bacteria and fungi to thrive, making the soil richer and improving its structure,' advises George Davies, founder of For Peat's Sake, supplier of peat-free, eco-coir compost.

'No-dig conserves mycorrhizal fungi, which are tiny sprawling fungal networks that are super beneficial to plants as they work in symbiosis with the roots helping them access more water, nutrients and increases a plants’ natural resistance to drought, disease and other stresses,' George adds.

'Digging the soil damages and disrupts these mycorrhizal networks, so the no-dig method will help your soil build these incredibly important underground ecosystems, which will help you produce more successful yields on healthier plants.' 

FAQs

What can you plant in a no dig garden?

There are many choices for what you can plant in a no dig garden. 

Your chosen mulch and how thick the layer is applied will dictate what you can grow in the first year of no dig gardening, but after that you should be able to grow whatever crops you want and like to eat as part of your kitchen garden ideas.

And not forgetting no dig is also good for growing flowers. 'Sometimes it’s claimed that “compost is too rich for flower growing”, but that is myth,' states Charles. No dog gardening is an excellent choice if you are planning a cut flower garden.

Can you do no dig on grass? 

You can create no dig garden beds directly on top of a lawn or section of grass. The method offers a great way to create beds without having to exhaustively dig sections of grass. Simply remove any large and perennial weeds from the section of grass, before mowing the lawn and adding a layer of cardboard directly on top of the grass. Then add a couple of inches of compost on top - and you can start planting directly into the new bed straight away.

Make sure to read up on no dig gardening mistakes to avoid. As an alternative, and easy-to-do way, to create no dig beds is to discover lasagna gardening. This method uses cardboard, along with household and garden waste such as grass cuttings, kitchen scraps, and other garden material, to build layers of material that composts down to create fertile beds. To build a lasagna garden you do need a lot of materials to start and it can take between six months and a year for it all to break down into fantastic compost. 

Forcing bulbs means that you can enjoy pretty spring planters during wintertime. Spring bulbs are a cheery reminder that spring is on the way just when you’re beginning to tire of those dark, cold winter months. 

Displayed indoors, arranged singularly or as a group, spring bulb planters will add uplifting pops of color, along with the promise of warmer weather and the reawakening of nature from its winter slumber. 

If you plant up spring bulbs in fall, you can force them to bloom inside as early as Christmas time and into the New Year – winter garden ideas brought indoors couldn't be prettier. Hyacinths, grape hyacinths, paperwhite narcissus, anemones, crocus, and iris are all perfect bulbs for forcing. 

Many spring bulbs (besides amaryllis) require prolonged cold temperatures to spur them to bloom – forcing them involves chilling the bulbs to mimic the conditions of winter which encourages them to bloom earlier. 

You can buy forced or ‘prepared’ bulbs in containers, usually from December onwards, which you can repot into your own planters to create a pretty indoor displays.

How to force bulbs in soil - indoors

If you're looking to force bulbs in containers, ready for an indoor display, here's how.

1. Prep your container

First get a container with drainage holes such as a terracotta pot and fill the bottom with grit. 

Bulbs require good drainage so ideally the container you use will have drainage holes. However, if the container does not contain drainage holes you can put a layer of bulb fibre at the bottom of your pot before planting your bulbs.

For an easier option consider planting bulbs into containers with holes such as plastic pots and placing them inside more attractive planters for display – this is a good option if you are worried about the container getting damaged. Displaying bulbs this way means that the bulbs can be taken out, watered, and left to drain completely before being put back in the planter. This will prevent the bulbs sitting in a pool of water which can cause damage to the plants.

Wrapping pots of bulbs in paper and tying them with twine, as above, is a brilliant way to create a pretty display but is also a lovely gift idea. If you buy potted bulbs, they usually come in plastic containers – covering them with paper is a quick and easy way to make them look more attractive.

2. Fill the container

Fill the pot with a mix of soil mix of 1 part grit to 3 parts soil. Compost can be used but loam or garden soil also works really well. With the pointed tips facing upwards, place the bulbs around 2-3 inches apart on top of the soil and cover over with more soil mix so that the bulbs sit just below the surface. 

A large pot of spring bulbs makes a beautiful focal point for a celebratory dinner table. For a stylish, contemporary look why not display them in a deep ceramic dish, as pictured above, such as these white planters with drainage holes from Amazon.

3. Cover the bulbs with moss

Once you have chosen from the best indoor bulbs to force for Christmas, you can lay moss over surface and around the tips of the bulbs to cover the exposed soil and make the final planter more rustic and attractive. 

Spring bulb planters can make a beautiful addition to a styled seasonal display. Why not create one in a hallway as a beautiful welcome for visitors and guests? 

Vintage terracotta pots with beautiful warn patinas are a beautiful way to display bulbs and will give a rustic farmhouse feel. Try arranging them pretty spring prints, vintage china and enamel jugs of seasonal blooms for a fresh spring feel.

4. Put the containers in a cold, dark place

Place the potted bulbs in a cold, dark place for 10-15 weeks. Ideally they need to be kept at a temperature of between 35-48ºF. After this period they can be moved inside into the warmth where they will soon begin to sprout and bloom. 

For a quirky, unique display you could think outside the box and plant bulbs up into vintage containers. Opt for an array of vessels with sculptural shapes and time-worn patinas, such as vintage enamel pots, urn-shaped Dartmouth vases, weathered watering cans, and even colanders for a quirky feel. Keep your eyes peeled at flea markets and car-boot sales for items to repurpose.

FAQs

How can I force a bulb without soil?

If you haven’t got the time to plant up bulbs, flowers such as hyacinths and tulips can also be grown without soil in water, and instead forced in water using glass containers known as bulb forcers. To do this you must buy bulbs which are described as prepared or treated and suitable for forcing. 

What to do with bulbs after forcing?

After bulbs have been forced, remove the dead flowers, but be careful to keep the foliage attached to the bulb. Place the container in a sunny, sheltered spot – on a windowsill indoors or the corner of a patio outdoors – and continue to water. Once the foliage has died back, stop watering, allow the soil to dry out then put the containers and bulbs in a cook, dry place, such as a shed, ready for planting out again in fall.

There is nothing quite like a display of bulbs to lift the spirits and remind us that spring is on the way. If you love to see them planted en masse, you might be interested in how to plant a bulb lawn, for a naturalized effect outdoors.