The last Friday in April is National Arbor Day; it is a perfect time to plant a tree. It is an ideal moment to add a low-maintenance tree with fragrant flowers that supports pollinators and wildlife in your garden. So let me introduce you to a sweetbay magnolia.

With citrus-scented white flowers that pollinators adore, and fruits and seeds that provide food for birds, this compact native tree is perfect for any wildlife garden. It is impressively flexible and can be grown in full sun or partial shade and is more tolerant of wetter conditions than other magnolias.

To extol the virtues of a sweetbay magnolia tree, I spoke to specialist horticulturists who believe this easy-to-grow addition is the perfect choice if you want a tree that brings together wildlife value, fragrant blooms, and low maintenance. (And you can find live sweetbay magnolia tree from the Arbor Day Foundation store at Amazon)

What is National Arbor Day?

National Arbor Day is celebrated annually on the last Friday in April. It encourages people to celebrate and plant a tree on this celebratory day.

Across the US, trees are planted in parks, schools, and streets to celebrate National Arbor Day.

It is also a perfect time for homeowners to plant a tree, and what could be better than a native tree like sweetbay magnolia?

Why Plant a Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is native to the coastal plains of the eastern US and can be either evergreen or deciduous, depending on climate. When you plant this magnolia tree, it will be evergreen in milder climates (US hardiness zone 7 and above) and deciduous in colder locations.

It can be grown as a large shrub or small fragrant tree, making it a flexible choice for landscapes, and, due to its common habitat in shaded woodlands and swamps, it is tolerant of wetter sites.

A sweetbay magnolia produces fragrant, creamy white flowers in late spring and early summer. The flowers are fleeting, each lasting for only a few days, and Sharon Yiesla, Plant Knowledge Specialist at The Morton Arboretum, says the timing of these ‘lemon-scented’ flowers makes a sweetbay magnolia perfect for milder climates.

‘A sweetbay magnolia flowers a bit later than other magnolias, in mid-June in the Midwest, which means we get to enjoy its flowers longer as they won't be lost to frosts and freezes,’ she adds.

The flowers, which open and close each day, support many pollinators. The tree makes an ideal addition to a bustling wildlife garden, providing food for many local wildlife species throughout the year.

Ana Herrera-Ruiz, Director of Buildings, Gardens & Grounds at DC’s Historic Tudor Place, highlights: ‘Sweetbay magnolia supports pollinators such as bees and beetles, while its seeds provide interest for birds later in the season.’

Songbirds and squirrels are also attracted to the small fruits, while the tree offers valuable shade and nesting spots for birds.

Sweetbay magnolia is also perfect for a butterfly garden, as it is a host tree for swallowtail butterflies.

You can get a live sweetbay magnolia tree at Fast Growing Trees

Where to Plant a Sweetbay Magnolia

A sweetbay magnolia is adaptable and easy to maintain. Ana Herrera-Ruiz says it ‘thrives in full sun to partial shade’ and performs best where it gets six hours of sunlight a day.

The tree can tolerate as little as four hours of light daily, but the more sun it gets, the more flowers there will be for you and the wildlife to enjoy.

The flowering tree likes moist, well-drained soils. It can tolerate wetter planting conditions than other magnolias and prefers a slightly acidic soil with a pH of between 5.5 and 6.5. A simple soil test (you can get a soil test kit at Amazon) before planting will reveal whether the ground conditions suit a sweetbay magnolia, or if you need to amend the soil to make it more acidic.

A sweetbay magnolia can reach 10-20 feet tall and wide. It grows at a slow pace, but it does need room to develop.

As Katie Watkins, a certified arborist for Miller's Tree Service, advises. ‘To keep it performing year-to-year, you’ll need to plant it with plenty of space for the roots and stay consistent with watering during the first year.’

How to Care for a Sweetbay Magnolia

As well as its flowers and benefits to wildlife, another big tick in the box for growing a sweetbay magnolia is that the tree is low-maintenance and fairly drought-resistant once established.

‘What makes a sweetbay magnolia especially valuable in both residential and historic landscapes is its relatively low-maintenance nature,’ says Ana. ‘Once established, it requires minimal intervention beyond routine care and adapts well to partial sun and varied soil types.’

Typical sweetbay magnolia care includes regular deep watering during establishment and during extended drought periods. The tree can tolerate periods of wet soil and drier weather, but the ground shouldn’t be allowed to dry completely for extended periods.

The tree doesn’t need regular fertilizing, but will benefit from mulching with organic matter annually to retain moisture in the ground and keep the soil healthy.

Ana adds that ‘minimal pruning’ is required for shapely, healthy trees. ‘Focus on removing dead or damaged branches to maintain structure,’ she explains.

A sweetbay magnolia tree tends to be hardy to the US hardiness zones 4-10. However, Sharon Yiesla recommends ‘some winter protection’ at the lower ends of its tolerance, as well as avoiding windswept winter planting sites.

The specialist recommends ‘Moonglow’ sweetbay magnolia for gardeners in colder climates, as she says: ‘This cultivar is more tolerant of cold and can retain some of its semi-evergreen foliage more successfully in northern climates. The habit is more upright, and the flowers are slightly larger than the species.’

You can get a ‘Moonglow’ sweetbay magnolia at Nature Hills.

FAQs

What Is the Lifespan of a Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia tends to live anywhere between 50 and 130 years, depending on the conditions.

How Far Apart Should I Plant Sweetbay Magnolia?

A sweetbay magnolia grows to 10-20 feet tall and wide, but is capable of having a spread of 30 feet. It is advisable to plant them at least 20 feet apart, and the same distance away from houses or other structures.

If you aspire for a garden full of trees that attract and supports lots of wildlife, there are trees suitable for spaces of all sizes. Our guide to the best trees for wildlife highlight 10 great candidates that can provide food and shelter for wildlife, and color and texture for you to enjoy

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Spring can be a struggle for many people. It is estimated that over a quarter of adults in the US have seasonal allergies, which means more than 80 million people are affected. Their struggles are often exacerbated because some of the most pollen-producing trees have long been used in suburban landscaping.

The worst offenders are wind-pollinated trees. Male cultivars have been routinely favored over the years for landscaping, as they don’t drop fruit and make a mess on roads and sidewalks. However, it results in these trees shedding huge amounts of pollen into the air each spring.

Oak trees are the most pollen-producing trees in suburbia, closely followed by birches, and conifers such as pine, cedar, and juniper. As well as discussing the biggest pollen-producing trees, we also reveal some low-pollen alternatives to help homeowners who garden with allergies and want more low-allergen ideas for a yard.

What Tree Produces the Most Pollen in the US?

The most pollen-producing tree in the US is found in almost every state, except Alaska, Hawaii, and Idaho. Oak trees are hugely popular across the US, but they are also a major contributor to pollen allergies.

As these trees are very common in suburban neighborhoods and admired as statement trees in landscaping, it means many millions of people with seasonal allergies are affected by the oak’s potent pollen.

‘The biggest pollen-producing trees in American yards are oaks,’ claims Marzena Rewers, the owner of Blooming Expert. ‘This single tree can produce billions of grains, and it happens every year with a peak in April-May.’

Oak trees are wind-pollinated trees and release large amounts of pollen in spring to transfer pollen to female flowers on the same or nearby tree. Kara Brown, a beekeeper and founder of Bee Inspired, says most Americans won’t realize how large a pollen producer this ‘spring offender’ is.

‘Oak trees produce pollen so light and abundant that it travels for miles before settling,’ she explains. ‘Oak trees are consistently among the highest pollen producers in the country, and most homeowners do not notice them because their flowers are hard to spot.’

These historic trees remain hugely popular and include many native tree species. However, before you experiment with growing an oak tree from an acorn, consider the impact its pollen may have if you or your family suffer from allergies.

A low-pollen alternative to an oak tree is a dogwood tree. These trees are also popular across the US and offer year-round ornamental beauty, as well as being low in pollen.

For example, a red dogwood tree like this at Fast Growing Trees is compact for smaller landscapes and offers vivid red blooms that don’t need wind pollination.

Other Major Pollen-Producing Trees in the US

As we’ve outlined above, oaks are undoubtedly problematic to allergy sufferers, but many of the other most pollen-producing trees are also commonly seen in urban and suburban areas.

Kara Brown highlights birch trees as ‘equally problematic’ trees that have been a popular ornamental tree in suburban landscapes for many years. She claims: ‘The tree does not look like an allergy threat, and that's exactly what makes them so effective at causing misery.’

There are many birch species grown throughout the US. They are wind-pollinated trees that need pollen to move from male catkins to female flowers. As a result, birch trees release a lot of pollen in early spring, and this light, powdery pollen can carry for miles on the wind. It is estimated that one birch catkin can release five million pollen grains.

Conifers, including pine, cedar, and juniper, are all evergreen trees that produce very fine yellow pollen that coats windows, cars, and sidewalks in winter and early spring (or late spring in the case of pine trees).

Indeed, pollen from the Ashe juniper (also known as mountain cedar) is the cause of ‘cedar fever’ in Texas and Oklahoma when huge amounts of pollen are released in winter. Male cones release pollen into the wind to fertilize female cones, and the grains can carry long distances.

Mario Galo from G&V Tree Service also highlights: ‘Male cultivars of ash and mulberry are trees that make a lot of pollen each spring.’ There are even cities, such as Tucson, Arizona, that have banned planting mulberry trees due to the health hazards linked to the large amounts of pollen the trees release in spring.

Finally, Marzena Rewers adds that maple trees also have potent pollen, but says their impact is ‘quite often overlooked’, stating: ‘The reason is that maple blooms in February, well before anyone starts to think about allergy.’

Other low-pollen alternatives you may consider adding to your backyard ideas, if you want to plant trees, include those that produce less pollen or rely on insects for pollination. These include magnolias, redbuds, and fruit trees, including apples, pears, and plums.

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It can be tricky to pick the right plants when you love gardening but suffer from allergies. Though there are plants you can enjoy that won’t aggravate your symptoms. Indeed, this guide to flowers to grow for hayfever sufferers and those to avoid reveals some fantastic selections of cutting garden flowers you can grow and enjoy without triggering allergies.

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Many ornamental and fruit trees can benefit from pruning in April, but not all of them. Indeed, you can do serious harm by trimming at the wrong time. On that note, we reveal seven trees to never prune in April to prevent homeowners from causing any unnecessary damage to trees on their property.

Deciduous trees, especially those that are yet to emerge from dormancy, and late-summer flowering trees can be done in early spring. However, trees that flower in spring and those that bleed sap or are susceptible to pests in April are best left alone. You do still need to remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches when required (such as after a spring storm) to keep them healthy, but larger-scale pruning is not recommended.

You can see our guide to plants to prune in April, but here the focus is on trees to never prune in April. Homeowners with these in their yard should not take any pruning tools to them except in urgent situations. Here we reveal the dangers of pruning this month, and when the proper window for trimming is.

1. Dogwood

Dogwood trees bloom in early to mid-spring, between late March and mid-May, depending on the variety and your climate. If you prune dogwood trees in April, you can be damaging this year’s display of showy blooms.

When growing and caring for dogwood trees, learn when it wakes up in spring and its usual flowering period. As they flower on old wood, they produce buds the previous season that burst into flowers come spring.

For a great display each year, add two tasks to your spring gardening checklist. Fertilize dogwood trees just as the new leaves are unfurling, and prune them after flowering.

Feed dogwoods with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants, like this acid mix at Walmart.

2. Flowering Cherry

A flowering cherry is almost universally adored as the best tree for spring blossom. They bloom in March and April, often peaking in early to mid-April, but the exact timing varies due to the type, location, and seasonal weather conditions.

It may sound obvious, but it would be foolish to prune a flowering cherry tree that has yet to bloom or is still flowering. You would only be removing this year’s blossom. Prune flowering cherries after the blooming is done for the year, in late spring or early summer. It gives the tree lots of time to develop next year’s buds.

Pruning in summer also helps to avoid silver leaf, a fungal disease that affects ornamental and fruiting cherry trees. The spores are more prevalent in colder months and access the tree through pruning wounds.

3. Oaks

Statuesque oak trees can last for centuries, but one way to cut short the lifespan of an oak is to prune it in April. Oak wilt, a serious fungal disease, is prevalent in spring and early summer, as active beetles carry spores from tree to tree.

It is destructive and present in over 25 eastern and midwestern US states, killing thousands of trees each year. An infected tree can quickly lose its foliage and die within 4-6 weeks.

Avoid pruning oak trees in spring and summer when sap-feeding pests are more active and spreading the disease. Keep oak pruning to late winter, when the beetles are less active.

4. Japanese Maple

Knowing when to prune Japanese maple trees avoids stressing the tree. The stunning trees never need lots of pruning, as their natural shape is so elegant. But when any varieties of Japanese maples do need trimming, do it when the trees are dormant.

The tree has a reputation for bleeding sap if pruned during active growth, and the sap of Japanese maples starts to rise early in spring. If you prune in April, the tree will bleed sap profusely.

This will not ultimately kill the tree, but it is undesirable. Not only does it make a mess and look unattractive, but it also stresses the tree and leaves it more susceptible to pests and diseases.

Another tip for trimming a Japanese maple tree is to use a light touch. They get easily stressed by pruning, so never remove more than 20% at a time.

5. Birch

Birch trees are popular trees thanks to their elegant foliage and unusual peeling bark. It is another ornamental tree that needs to be pruned at the right time of year to avoid pest problems.

April is the wrong time to prune birch trees; the right time is late winter. Pruning birches in spring only results in the tree bleeding sap and getting stressed. This puts it in danger of the bronze birch borer, a wood-boring pest that targets all birch species and is particularly attracted to stressed or weakened trees.

The larvae of the beetle cause huge damage as they feed on the tree's vascular system, which moves water and nutrients. The leaves can discolor and fall, the branches die back, and the tree ultimately starves to death.

6. Lilac

Lilac trees produce their fragrant, conical blooms in spring. Growing lilacs rewards homeowners with a display that often starts in April or May, depending on the variety and climate, and lasts for around three weeks.

The time to prune lilacs comes around flowering, in late spring or early summer. Removing the blooms within a few weeks of the flowers ending stops seed production and focuses the plant’s energy on surviving summer and developing next year’s flower buds.

As for how to prune lilacs post-flowering, deadhead any spent blooms, remove dead, damaged, diseased, or rubbing stems, and get rid of any suckers around the base of the tree.

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We’ve covered what you shouldn’t do this month in the shape of trees to never prune in April, but what about fun gardening jobs you can do this spring? Well, our guides to flowers to plant in April and vegetables to plant in April reveal lots of seeds you can sow this month.

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April is a month for pruning summer-flowering shrubs, evergreen hedges, old perennials, ornamental grasses, and trees that remain dormant in colder climates. However, timing is crucial, and any pruning must be done at the right time, especially during periods of changeable and potentially extreme weather.

The recent weather in the US has been highly variable, with different regions seeing different extremes. There have been severe storms in the Midwest, cold snaps in the Northeast, and record-breaking heat in the Southwest. It continues to look unstable for April, but warmer than average across much of the country. However, more extreme weather is not out of the question, with storms, dry and hot spells, and drought a distinct possibility.

Here we look at the plants to prune in April, and how the weather should affect your spring gardening checklist. We also reveal what not to prune in spring, and the conditions in which you should not head out with the pruning tools.

Plants to Prune in April

Summer-Flowering Shrubs

One of the key groups of plants to prune in spring is summer-flowering shrubs. This includes the likes of roses, butterfly bush, crepe myrtle, beautyberry, rose of Sharon, and new-wood hydrangeas (like panicle and smooth hydrangea varieties, but not all hydrangeas).

Summer-flowering deciduous shrubs produce their buds and bloom on new wood produced this season. And knowing what type of wood they flower on is vital in knowing when to prune shrubs.

New-wood bloomers want trimming early in the season to give them lots of time to develop stems to carry that season’s flowers. Shrubs that flower on old wood are trimmed after flowering, in late spring or early summer, to have the rest of the season to develop the stems to carry next year’s display.

Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears (I have a trusty pair of Felco pruners that have lasted me for over a decade of professional gardening so far, and you can get a pair of Felco F2 pruners at Amazon) to remove dead, diseased, and damaged branches, as well as crossing, weak, or congested growth. April is also the chance to gently shape the shrub to get it looking in top form for the season ahead.

Deciduous Trees

In cooler regions, there can still be time to prune trees before they fully emerge from dormancy. Any deciduous ornamental or fruit trees still in need of a bit of attention can be trimmed before the new season's growth really kicks in. In an ideal world, any ornamental or fruit tree pruning will be done before the buds fully open or the trees leaf out.

Removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches can help to keep the canopy healthy, and pruning fruit trees in spring rewards you with a better harvest later in the season. In terms of fruit trees, remember to prune apples, pears, and figs, but not stone fruits, so leave cherries, apricots, plums, and peaches alone to avoid silver leaf disease.

To prune tree branches, you may need something with a bit more cutting power than pruning shears. A quality pair of loppers (like these extendable bypass loppers at Walmart) can cut branches 1-2 inches in diameter, and a pruning saw can be used for those 2-5 inches wide.

Ornamental Grasses

If you grow ornamental grasses and haven’t yet cut them back, you should do so quickly at the start of April. The ideal time to cut back deciduous ornamental grasses is late winter or early spring. The plants offer structure and shelter in a winter wildlife garden, but need trimming ahead of the new season.

Cutting back before new growth starts coming through in spring is ideal. The longer you leave it, the more you risk accidentally trimming away emerging new shoots. So if you haven’t done it yet, the sooner you can in April, the better, as it reduces your chances of damaging the new growth.

Gather all the old stems together and cut them down as close to the base as possible, to within a few inches of the ground. But keep a close eye on any new stems, and try not to cut the emerging ones. It may be easier said than done, depending on your climate.

A pair of thick gardening gloves, like these leather gauntlets at Amazon, is crucial when pruning grasses to avoid cutting your hands.

Old Perennials

Any old perennial plants left in your flower beds now want cutting back for spring. Whether the growth was left in place to provide shelter for wildlife or to insulate the crowns against freezing temperatures, it needs to be removed when new growth is starting to appear at the base of the plant.

Cut back old stems with a pair of pruning shears, cutting as close to the base as possible. If new shoots are showing at the base, cut an inch above this to avoid damaging them.

Clear away any old foliage or debris that may be harboring bacteria or fungi that can affect new growth, then mulch around the plants with organic matter.

Evergreen Shrubs and Hedges

April is an ideal month for pruning evergreen shrubs and hedges, provided the risk of frost has passed for your climate.

These low-maintenance shrubs can be shaped and trimmed in early to mid-spring. This timing stops frosts from damaging new shoots, and gives the shrub ample time to recover and grow before the main season – plus the pruning cuts will quickly get hidden by the new spring growth.

For shrubs, use a pair of pruning shears or hedge shears to create a natural look, something you cannot achieve with a hedge trimmer. Remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood and shape the shrub as required. But work lightly, and don’t remove more than a third of the growth.

The plants will benefit from feeding with a slow-release, balanced fertilizer after pruning, courtesy of a product like this all-purpose plant food at Burpee, as well as mulching to retain moisture in the soil.

Trees Pre and Post-Storms

Ahead of any storms, it is advisable to check trees and tall shrubs on your property for dead, damaged, or weak branches that may potentially come down and do damage. Removing these branches reduces the risk of harm to property or people and can help to open the canopy.

A more open canopy allows wind to pass through it, reducing the potential for broken limbs or uprooting.

After a storm, observe your trees for any signs of broken or hanging branches and remove them to prevent them from falling and doing damage.

An extendable pole saw like this Fiskars tree pruner and pole saw at Amazon can be used to remove smaller branches from high in the canopy. However, larger or more dangerous limbs are best dealt with by professional arborists.

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What Not to Prune This April

Spring-Flowering Shrubs

This one may sound plain to see, but don’t prune spring-flowering shrubs that haven’t finished blooming for the year. Stand back and enjoy the blooms, rather than making a pruning mistake you’ll regret later.

Whether they bloom in early spring, such as forsythia, or later in the season, such as mock orange or weigela, any spring-flowering shrubs require trimming after their show has finished for the year.

These shrubs flower on old wood. As mentioned earlier, pruning after flowering gives these shrubs lots of time to put energy into developing new growth to form buds and carry next spring’s display.

Pruning before this year’s display has ended, or before it has really gotten going, simply deprives you of spring blooms to enjoy. Remember this simple rule: if your shrub blooms before June, prune it after flowering.

Early-Flowering Clematis

When you grow clematis, it can potentially be confusing, as different types require pruning at different times.

Group One clematis, which flowers early in spring, needs pruning after flowering, which can mean you prune this clematis in late spring or early summer. As they flower on old wood, it would be a clematis pruning mistake to trim in April, as you’d rob yourself of blooms.

The good news is that these Group One types don’t require lots of arduous pruning every year. Simply remove old flowers and thin older shoots to keep the climber healthy, compact, and packed with blooms.

Spring-Flowering Trees

As well as spring-flowering shrubs and climbers, gardeners should not prune trees that bloom in spring this April. That includes magnolia, cherries, lilac, serviceberry, and flowering dogwood trees.

When they require a trim, do so after the flowering show subsides. This avoids cutting off this year’s buds and gives the tree time to develop stems and next year’s buds for a strong display next spring.

Bleeder Trees

Some trees are known to bleed sap from pruning wounds, and are often referred to as ‘bleeder trees’. These include maple, birch, walnut, elm, and lime trees.

Losing sap can stress a tree, and pruning at certain times can minimize how much sap a tree loses. The sap of the trees highlighted above starts rising early in the spring, making them vulnerable to excessive bleeding if pruned in April.

Hydrangeas That Bloom on Old Wood

I mentioned earlier how new-wood hydrangeas are plants to prune in April, but not all hydrangeas are. If you have an old-wood hydrangea that blooms on stems formed the previous year, you would remove all this year’s flowers by trimming in early spring.

This is the case for old-wood bloomers like bigleaf (macrophylla) and oakleaf hydrangeas. These want pruning after flowering in summer, and not this month. It is crucially important to know the blooming habits of your shrub when pruning hydrangeas to avoid making cuts that remove this year’s buds.

Don’t Prune Anything in Extreme Weather

With more extreme weather predicted for April, you want to avoid doing anything that stresses plants or puts yourself at risk.

It is inadvisable to prune trees or shrubs heavily during periods of drought and extreme heat. Pruning, especially heavy pruning, can cause water loss, force the plant to use energy reserves to seal the cuts, and place huge stress on it. Unless it is vital for safety reasons, wait until the conditions improve.

Finally, it is very dangerous to prune trees during high winds. It is good to do proactive safety trimming ahead of a predicted storm, but never prune trees once the winds pick up.

April is traditionally a busy time for gardeners. If you wonder what to plant in April, look no further than these pieces on vegetables to plant in April, flowers to plant in April, and native perennials to plant in April. Our guides feature a wealth of plants to add to your backyard ideas for bursting flower beds or containers and fantastic harvests of homegrown crops.

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April is without a doubt one of my favorite months for magnolia trees. There’s something about their large, fragrant blooms and glossy green leaves that never fails to make me pause and smile.

After the quiet months of winter, I always look forward to the moment when the buds start to swell and flowers begin to open, transforming a simple garden corner into a breathtaking spring display. Magnolias are the ultimate sign that spring has truly arrived.

What a Magnolia Tree Needs in April

With the right Magnolia tree care this month, you can help your tree reach its full potential. Focusing on watering, feeding, pruning, and frost protection will support healthy growth and abundant flowering, allowing you to grow magnolia trees that are vigorous, beautiful, and reliable year after year.

April is the perfect time to nurture these iconic spring trees and enjoy their dramatic, unforgettable blooms.

1. Encourage Strong Growth With Light and Location

Magnolias do best in a sunny or partially shaded spot that’s sheltered from strong winds. In April, it’s worth taking a moment to make sure your tree is getting plenty of light, which is exactly what it needs to fuel new growth and those gorgeous spring flowers. Most varieties can handle a bit of shade, but the best magnolia trees really shine – literally – when they get at least four to six hours of direct sunlight a day.

Take a quick look around your garden. If taller plants, fences, or structures are casting shade over the canopy, a little selective pruning can make a big difference, letting light reach all the branches.

For smaller branches, I like using Fiskars Micro-Tip Pruning Shears, which are precise and easy to handle. For larger limbs, a Felco Hand Pruner, both on Amazon, is sturdy, reliable, and perfect for tackling tough magnolia wood. Magnolias grow slowly, so giving them the right start this spring pays off for years, helping you enjoy fuller blooms and a stronger, healthier tree.

2. Water Wisely as Temperatures Rise

April weather can be a bit unpredictable, swinging from sunny days to sudden showers. Newly emerging leaves and flowers are delicate, so it’s important to keep the soil consistently moist – but never waterlogged. A deep, slow soak works best, encouraging roots to grow down into the soil rather than staying shallow near the surface. Try to avoid frequent, shallow watering, which can weaken the root system over time.

For larger magnolia trees, a soaker hose or drip irrigation around the drip line is a handy way to give even moisture without drenching the trunk or crown. The Gilmour Flat Soaker Hose and the Raindrip Drip Irrigation Kit are good options.

Mulching is another simple trick: a 5–10 cm layer of organic material, like bark chips (the Back to Roots Organic Premium Mulch is my go-to), helps the soil retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and insulates the roots as temperatures fluctuate. A soil moisture meter (XLUX Soil Moisture Meter) can also take the guesswork out of watering, ensuring your magnolia gets exactly what it needs.

With just a little care and the right tools, your tree will stay healthy and strong throughout the season.

3. Feed for Flourishing Foliage and Blooms

April is a great time to fertilize a magnolia tree, especially if it’s young or showing signs of slow growth. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer designed for acid-loving trees – magnolias thrive in slightly acidic soil. A good option is the Miracle-Gro Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron Plant Food, which is formulated with the right nutrient balance. Try to avoid high-nitrogen feeds, as these can encourage leafy growth at the expense of those show-stopping flowers.

A simple approach works best: sprinkle the fertilizer evenly around the root zone, keeping it away from direct contact with the trunk, and then water well so the nutrients reach the roots. If you prefer an organic option, something like Espoma Holly-Tone from Amazon is a reliable choice for acid-loving plants. With a little regular spring feeding, your magnolia will produce strong new shoots and plenty of vibrant blooms to enjoy all season long.

4. Prune With Care – Minimal But Strategic

Magnolias are slow growers, so it’s important to prune a magnolia tree gently and thoughtfully. April isn’t the time for heavy shaping – instead, focus on removing dead, damaged, or crossing branches to improve airflow and reduce the risk of disease. Be careful with flowering branches, too, as many buds for next year’s blooms may already be forming.

For smaller trees, sharp, clean tools make precise cuts easy and safe. For larger magnolias, it’s worth consulting a professional arborist – these trees have tough wood, and a misstep can leave them vulnerable.

5. Protect Buds and Blossoms From Late Frost

Even in April, sudden frosts can still put tender buds and flowers at risk. If a late cold snap is on the way, cover smaller trees with horticultural fleece overnight, or use cloches to shield young magnolias.

For larger trees, frost protection sprays can help reduce damage, but they need to be applied carefully – timing is key, and too much or too little can harm leaves or blossoms. A little preparation goes a long way in keeping your magnolia’s spring display safe and healthy.

6. Keep an Eye Out for Pests and Diseases

Spring is when magnolias are most vulnerable to pests like scale insects, aphids, and spider mites, which can damage delicate young leaves and flowers. It’s worth taking a few minutes each week to check under the leaves and along the branches. If you spot any trouble, treat infestations promptly with insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or neem oil – whatever suits your tree best.

Fungal problems, such as leaf spot or powdery mildew, can also pop up in damp conditions. You can help prevent them by ensuring good air circulation, giving your tree plenty of space, and watering carefully at the base rather than over the leaves. With a little vigilance in spring, your magnolia will stay healthy and flourish through the season.

Shop Magnolia Tree Essentials for April

April is all about growth and fresh beginnings for your magnolia tree. Focus on keeping the soil evenly moist, making sure it gets plenty of light, and giving it a gentle spring feed. Prune carefully and sparingly, and keep an eye on buds if a late frost threatens.

With consistent care and a little patience, your magnolia will reward you with a healthy tree and a stunning burst of spring blooms that will light up your garden for weeks.

Flowering trees can undoubtedly put on dazzling summer performances, providing vivid color and attracting butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds into the garden. For an ultimate performance, gardeners need to prune at the right time. Here we reveal five flowering trees to prune in early spring, as you lose flowers if you do it any later.

Knowing when to prune trees means any in your yard remain healthy and put on the best show. That includes not trimming spring-flowering trees this month, but concentrating on summer-flowering ones that require trimming just as the buds break with clean, sharp pruning tools.

We reveal why you should add pruning crepe myrtle, chaste, desert willow, sourwood, and seven-son trees to your spring gardening checklist if you have them in your garden. There are also some trimming tips to help you prune confidently.

1. Crepe Myrtle

Crepe myrtle trees burst into bloom in early summer, with their bright clusters of flowers coming in shades of white, pink, red, and purple.

As these fast-growing flowering trees bloom in early summer, the window to prune crepe myrtle is closing. You can get away with trimming in early spring without ruining the summer show, but you want to do so before the end of March.

When growing crepe myrtle, pruning isn’t always necessary every year. However, when they do need trimming, it should be done during dormancy, before the buds break. As crepe myrtles bloom on new wood, the tree needs ample time to develop new stems to carry buds and blooms.

If you prune crepe myrtle too late, you’ll push back the flowering time and sacrifice the early blooms. When it comes to what to do with crepe myrtle in March, make sure to consider pruning.

You can get a Tuscarora Crape Myrtle Tree at Fast Growing Trees that stuns with bright coral-pink bloom in summer.

2. Chaste Tree

A chaste tree, also known as Vitex, is a shrub or small fragrant tree hardy in US hardiness zones 5-9. It produces 12-inch-long panicles of fragrant pink, lavender, or white flowers in summer, which attract butterflies.

Vitex flowers on new wood produced that season, and they want pruning in late winter or early spring. The ideal time to trim is just as the new growth starts to emerge for the season, and acting quickly ensures early flowering on the new stems produced. Delay and you miss out on beautiful, fragrant flowers.

Trimming a chaste tree can be as simple as removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches with sharp pruning tools and lightly shaping it as required.

It is worth noting that vitex is considered an invasive species in some parts of the southern and western US, as it self-seeds readily in warmer climates. Always check to see the status of the tree in your area before adding one to your yard.

If you have a chaste tree, cutting off spent flowers will prevent self-seeding.

3. Desert Willow

A desert willow, as the name suggests, is a drought-tolerant tree and one of the best trees for sandy soil or xeriscaping. It is a native plant to the southwestern US and Mexico that can be grown as a large shrub or small tree. However, despite the name, it is not a true willow but is in the same family as catalpa and campsis.

The small stature of a desert willow makes it an option as a flowering tree for smaller backyards, and the rewards it brings are spectacular: in the shape of orchid-like, trumpet-shaped flowers in bright shades of pink, purple, or white. These blooms often have patterned throats.

Prune a desert willow in late winter or early spring. They bloom on new wood, and trimming encourages stems that carry flowers that summer. It is not just you who will appreciate the dazzling blooms, as the flowers attract bees and butterflies. Prune too late, and you’ll sacrifice weeks' worth of potential flowers that you and the pollinators could enjoy.

A desert willow can self-seed, but you can get seedless varieties. One such example is the Sweet Bubba Seedless Desert Willow, which has bright magenta flowers and glossy leaves, plus it is seedless, so it won’t spread around the yard.

4. Sourwood Tree

A sourwood, often called a sorrel tree, is a small, low-maintenance tree with fragrant, white flowers in early summer.

These blooms are similar to lily-of-the-valley blooms, as they droop and seem to drip down the tree’s canopy to attract pollinators. Sourwood trees are beautiful year-round, with bright fall color and architectural appeal in winter.

One wonderful thing about a sourwood is its slow growth and ease of maintenance. They don’t need much pruning, and the window to trim runs through dormancy from late fall to early spring.

Don’t leave it too late, as you’ll not only miss out on flowers but also cause sap loss if you trim too far into spring. Excessive sap loss can leave the tree stressed and susceptible to pests and diseases.

5. Seven-Son Flower Tree

This small tree or large shrub quickly forms its flower buds once it starts growing in early spring, so you don’t want to be too slow to trim, as you’ll rob yourself of gorgeous blooms.

Even though the fragrant white flowers don’t show until late summer, the buds start forming early, so there is a real risk of cutting them off if pruned any time after very early in spring.

The good news is that you don’t need to do lots of pruning each year. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with weak, crossing, or inward-growing stems. This keeps the canopy healthy as air can circulate and light will penetrate.

Do this with a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears. A pair of quality pruning shears can last you for many years; indeed, these Felco F2 pruners, available at Amazon, are professional tools and all parts are replaceable, so they can last decades.

You can get a Temple of Bloom Seven-Son at Plant Addicts that will dazzle with white flowers in summer. These flowers make way for red bracts at the end of the season, for another dazzling show.

For more trimming guidance in early spring, this guide to plants to prune in March reveals what you should and shouldn’t cut this month. It includes trees, shrubs, grasses, and perennial plants, to help you avoid doing anything that may harm your plants early in the season.

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March is a time with big temperature swings across the US, and any pruning plans need to reflect your location and the current weather. Here, we look at some plants to prune in March. We also reveal what to avoid trimming, and the conditions under which you should never take the pruning tools out this month.

Weather-wise, March is late winter for northern gardeners and early spring in the south. There are big temperature swings across the US, including severe weather conditions in the northeast and mid-Atlantic. Elsewhere, the weather remains more typical, with colder weather in northern areas and milder temperatures in southern regions.

Extreme winter temperatures are never a time to prune trees or shrubs, and even in northern and transitional zones, late frosts can still happen and affect new growth stimulated by pruning. However, gardeners in milder climates should be able to prune without such worries. Bearing all that in mind, let’s look at a selection of plants to prune in March as well as those to steer clear of.

Plants to Prune in March

1. Dormant Trees

March is an ideal time to prune trees before they break dormancy, which often happens this month in many zones. There is a wide range of deciduous ornamental and fruit trees to prune this month – our guide to trees to prune in March shows a good selection.

The key to pruning trees is primarily to remove dead, damaged, or diseased branches. And trimming out crossing branches and congested areas promotes air circulation through the canopy, which helps keep the tree healthy.

For whatever reason, when pruning tree branches, avoid making any tree pruning mistakes that cause harm. This includes using the wrong tools for the job, using blunt pruning tools, and trying to remove too large a branch in one go, which often tears or splits the bark.

To prune large branches, take a pruning saw and first make a small cut on the underside a few inches from the joint. Then cut the top a few inches further up the branch to remove the bulk, before tidying up with a last cut at the base.

A folding pruning saw like this one at Walmart is always my go-to tool for tree trimming.

2. Summer-Flowering Shrubs

March offers a window to prune shrubs, but not all (we’ll get to which not to prune later). It is the time to prune deciduous shrubs that bloom on new wood in the summer. These shrubs need pruning before they start growing in spring to develop lots of buds for this season’s blooms.

Summer-flowering deciduous shrubs to prune in March include panicle and smooth hydrangea varieties (but not all hydrangeas), cotoneaster, Russian sage, lavatera, hardy fuchsias, cotinus, and many shrub roses. Lots of these feature in a previous focused piece I wrote on plants to prune in March, with bespoke pruning advice for each.

Again, a primary focus is to remove any dead, diseased, and damaged branches, along with crossing, weak, or congested growth. When pruning shrubs or summer-flowering climbers this month, don’t get too carried away. Observe the one-third pruning rule and don’t remove any more, as it may affect this season’s display.

3. Any Remaining Perennials

Any remaining perennials in flower beds that have not been cut back yet need trimming this month.

The benefits of leaving herbaceous perennials in place over winter include feeding birds and providing shelter for insects in a wildlife garden. But they do need to be cut back before new growth comes through, and the old debris cleared away, as pests and diseases can overwinter on the material.

The likes of sedum, bee balm, hostas, asters, black-eyed Susan, coral bells, coneflower, and many more may need this attention in March. Check before trimming for signs of new growth, and if there are any, be very careful with the pruning shears to avoid new shoots or the plant's crown.

After cutting back, it is a good idea to mulch around plants to help promote strong growth for the season ahead. Use an organic type of mulch, such as compost, leaf mold, or bark chip, such as this bag of organic premium mulch at Amazon.

4. Ornamental Grasses

Ornamental grasses are left standing over winter to provide food and shelter for wildlife, as well as provide seasonal interest. They do need to be cut back ahead of the new season, and March is a perfect time to do it if you still haven’t yet.

When it comes to cutting back ornamental grasses, the method differs depending on the type. But the good news is that both methods are super-simple.

Deciduous grasses, like Calamagrostis, miscanthus, and panicum, want bundling together and cutting 10-12 inches above the ground. This can be done with a pair of sharp pruning shears, and I have had a trusty pair of Felco F2 pruners (you can get Felco F2 pruners at Amazon) for many years for spring trimming.

Whereas, evergreen grasses, such as carex and festuca grass, just need dead foliage removed, and you can do this by combing through the blades wearing a good pair of gloves. A pair of thick leather gauntlet gloves like these at Walmart is perfect to keep you safe when handling grasses.

5. Hardy Evergreen Shrubs

Evergreen shrubs are great picks for year-round structure and screening if you are after shrubs for privacy. While evergreens are low-maintenance shrubs, they do need an annual trim to keep them looking in top shape year after year.

If you live in a milder climate, hardier evergreen shrubs can be trimmed this month before new growth starts. This includes the likes of laurel, euonymus, holly, viburnum, and mahonia.

Often, these shrubs need just a gentle trim to shape them, but you can prune heavily to rejuvenate older, neglected evergreens.

What Not to Prune This March

1. Anything in Freezing Conditions

To put it simply, you don’t want to prune trees, shrubs, grasses, or perennials when you are experiencing severe winter cold weather. Plummeting temperatures, snow, and icy winds all damage plants, as well as people and property.

There are many reasons it would be a pruning mistake to trim in extreme conditions. Not only is it a risk to your own health, but frozen branches are very brittle and will snap rather than cut cleanly.

Furthermore, plants cannot heal wounds at low temperatures, making them susceptible to pests and diseases, and frosts can get into pruning cuts and cause dieback. If you are experiencing freezing conditions, don’t think about pruning until warmer weather arrives.

Once winter storms have passed, you can assess any damage and prune as required. But trimming before the conditions improve can only make things worse for your plants.

2. Anything Ahead of Dropping Temperatures

Things can change quickly at the start of March, so pay close attention to forecasts and don’t prune if the temperatures are set to drop in the coming days.

Late frosts are common, and snowstorms can strike, so if it looks like freezing conditions are inbound, hold off any pruning until it passes and the days warm up.

3. Trees and Shrubs That Bloom on Old Wood

Don’t prune any spring-flowering shrubs that bloom on old wood, as all you’ll be doing is removing this season’s buds and robbing you of a display. This includes shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, rhododendron, flowering cherry, weigela, and oakleaf hydrangeas.

These bloom on old wood produced last season. They developed buds last summer and fall, and trimming now removes the blooms. All these plants want pruning after they have flowered.

This guide to what not to prune in spring contains a long list of plants you ought to keep the pruning shears away from in March.

4. Trees Vulnerable to Silver Leaf

There are troubling fungal diseases around at this time of year, such as silver leaf, which must influence what you prune. It should certainly be a reason not to prune certain fruit trees in March.

Silver leaf is a fungal disease that primarily targets plum, cherry, apricot, and almond trees. Once infected, leaves turn a silvery color, branches suffer dieback, and bracket-shaped fungi appear.

Silver leaf primarily gets into trees through pruning wounds. To keep trees safe, you shouldn’t prune stone fruit trees in winter when the spores are more prevalent in colder, damper weather.

Instead, prune them in summer, when the spores aren’t as common, and the tree is actively growing, so it can heal pruning wounds more quickly.

5. Borderline-Hardy or Tender Evergreen Shrubs

We discussed how you can prune hardy evergreen shrubs this month, but it is riskier to trim more tender evergreens, including those that are borderline-hardy.

Milder and colder regions can still receive frosts in March, and new growth will be damaged as a result. This can leave the shrubs more vulnerable to disease.

Both gardeners and the shrubs are at risk of a false spring, when temperatures rise in late winter, only to drop again. By rushing to trim, it stimulates new growth, which will die back if a late cold snap hits.

For gardeners in colder climates, the safest plan of action with the likes of Mexican orange blossom, camellia, abelia, and Italian cypress is to wait until the days warm up towards the end of the month or in early April.

March is a month when temperatures rise and the days get longer. It is a period when we can now spend more time in the garden, and start thinking about planting in earnest.

To give you some inspiration and tasks to add to your spring gardening checklist, our guide to what to plant in March includes flowers, fruits, and vegetables you can plant or sow this month, along with guidance on whether you should sow them indoors or outdoors.

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February is a good month to prune deciduous trees in many climates. As they are dormant, they suffer less stress from pruning, and there are fewer pests and diseases around at this time of year. Bearing that in mind, we look at some of the best trees to prune in February.

One word of warning is that pruning trees might not be suitable for everyone this month – you need to be cautious about when to prune trees to keep them safe. If you live in warm or milder climates, the weather is probably fitting. However, even in these areas, avoid trimming during freezing temperatures. Gardeners in colder regions may need to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed before heading out to prune.

As a gardener, I have spent many late winter days pruning trees in gardens. These included trained fruit trees that adorned arches and walls in one particular walled garden, a historic garden with a large orchard, and a wide variety of ornamental trees across different gardens. Here, I look at some of the best edible and ornamental trees to prune in February, and give some pruning tips to get you started.

Even More Trees to Prune in February

This time last year, I looked at seven trees to prune in February. But there are certainly more candidates to consider, so a follow-up was necessary.

See my first recommendations on trees to prune in February, and add those seven to your late winter gardening checklist, along with the following selections:

1. Pear

I mentioned above that I had done a lot of fruit tree pruning in winter, which included pear trees, both freestanding and trained. I have pruned many apple and pear trees at this time of year, as late winter is the best time to prune pear trees to keep them healthy and productive, especially those growing as standalone trees in gardens or orchards.

In terms of how to prune pear trees, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with crossing branches and any growing inwards. Cutting back branch leaders by up to a third will promote the growth of fruiting spurs.

For trained pear trees, most pruning takes place in summer, but you can also thin stems in winter or do major cutting to rejuvenate the shape.

You must always have clean, sharp pruning tools; it is a mistake to prune trees with blunt or dirty tools. The quickest way to sharpen many tools is with a pocket-sized tool sharpener, like this one at Amazon.

2. Oak

These majestic and widespread trees are highly prized, but to keep them safe, you must understand when to prune oak trees if you have one on your property.

The reason timing is crucial is to avoid oak wilt, a devastating fungal disease that is prominent in eastern and midwestern US states and capable of quickly killing most types of oaks.

The disease is spread by sap-feeding beetles in spring and early summer, so any oak pruning must be done during dormancy, usually between November and March.

That time urgency is why you should have it on your hit-list of trees to prune in February if you have an oak in your yard. Thankfully, the actual pruning should be simple.

Oaks don’t need regular pruning; they are low-maintenance trees that just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed and the canopy thinned if it gets too congested.

A pruning saw may be required to remove larger branches on established oak trees. I recommend this Felco folding saw at Garden Goods Direct. I used one for many years and found it efficient to cut through large tree branches.

3. Ash

Ash has been a popular urban tree in cities for decades, but it is under threat from the emerald ash borer (EAB).

The EAB has been detected in 37 states and is believed to be responsible for the death of millions of ash trees across North America. One way to keep an ash tree on your property safe is through pruning at the right time.

It is advisable to only prune ash trees when they are dormant, and late winter is the ideal time. Pruning at this time reduces the risk of fresh sap flow, which stresses the tree and attracts pests such as the EAB.

Another major pruning mistake to avoid is being too overzealous, as taking out too much wood stresses the tree and makes it more vulnerable to pests. Take heed of the one-third pruning rule and don’t remove more than this in any one year.

Concentrate on removing dead, damaged, and diseased branches and lightly thinning the canopy to open it up and improve light penetration and air circulation.

When you do prune or examine an ash tree, if you notice an S-shaped pattern on the bark or dead branches at the top of the tree, this may indicate the presence of the EAB. Any infested wood should be burned and not moved off-site.

4. Beech

Beech trees have long been popular additions to any landscape, thanks to their shape and fall color. The American beech tree, for example, is adored for its smooth, grey, unusual bark and for being a prized tree for shade.

Beech trees can reach up to a hundred feet if left unpruned, and regular trimming is often required to keep them to a manageable size for a property. This pruning needs to be done during dormancy, as beech trees bleed sap when actively growing, which leaves them vulnerable to pests and diseases.

As beech trees are currently at risk of beech leaf disease, pruning during dormancy helps keep them healthy and reduces unnecessary stress or risk.

Start by removing dead, damaged, diseased, and crossing branches first, as the latter can rub and create entry points for disease. If you are looking to reduce the height, make selective thinning cuts over a few years to remove branches rather than hard-pruning the tree.

Always sanitize your pruning tools when moving between trees. This can be done as simply as spraying tools with a commercial disinfectant spray and wiping them down. You can get an all-purpose disinfectant cleaner at Walmart.

5. Ginkgo

Ginkgo trees are one of the oldest in existence and have been around for over 200 million years. They remain popular today thanks to their unique fan-shaped leaves, their golden fall color, and their low-maintenance.

They don’t require lots of pruning, but when the need arises, it should be done during dormancy in late winter or early spring.

Most pruning is done while a ginkgo tree is young, to form its shape. Often, this involves developing a strong framework and a single leader, with competing branches, long-hanging stems, and suckers removed.

Once established, they only require dead, damaged, and diseased branches removing, and a light shaping. As ginkgo trees only grow 1-2 feet per year, this TLC often doesn’t need to be a regular annual task. But do remove suckers whenever you see them.

6. Sweetgum

Sweetgum, also known as liquidambar, provides spectacular fall color in fiery shades of red, yellow, orange, and more. They don’t need regular pruning, but they may need some attention for both aesthetics and safety.

You should prune sweetgum trees during dormancy, ideally in late winter. This helps keep it healthy as there are fewer insects and diseases around to trouble pruning wounds. A benefit to pruning during dormancy is that you can see the structure and spot any damaged branches.

Pruning typically involves removing broken, diseased, or dead branches. It is also advisable to remove any crossing branches, crowded stems, upright shoots, and suckers at the base of the tree. But prune lightly, and don’t remove more than 25% of live wood.

An established sweetgum can get very large, potentially up to 100 feet tall, meaning a certified arborist may be required for large trees.

7. Fig

When you grow a fig tree, pruning is one of the important tasks to get right. They do need annual pruning, which keeps them healthy and ensures you have a great harvest, but there is a right and a wrong time to prune fig trees.

The right time is when they are dormant in late winter, with February an ideal time to get out and trim. It would be a mistake with a fig tree to wait until it is actively growing, as figs bleed sap heavily if pruned during spring or summer. You should always wear gloves when pruning figs to protect your skin, as the sap can irritate.

Pruning outside the ideal window also impacts the harvest, as the tree has to concentrate precious energy on healing wounds, at a time it will be stressed from sap loss, rather than producing fruit.

Annual fig tree pruning requires removing dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches and congested areas to open up the tree’s framework and allow for lots of air and light penetration. Wall-trained figs need any shoots growing inwards or outwards removed, and new shoots cut back by around a third.

Older fig trees often benefit from one or two of the largest branches removed annually to encourage new, more productive growth.

It is important to make sensible pruning decisions, as not all trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring. In particular, you want to avoid pruning spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as dogwood, magnolia, and lilacs, as you would be trimming off all the buds that will carry that year’s blooms. This guide to what not to prune in spring reveals 10 of those trees and shrubs that you should keep the pruning tools away from.

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With winter storms and a deep freeze over the northern United States, meteorologists on social media have created a different kind of storm with talk of exploding trees. But how real is the risk of trees exploding due to freezing weather, and what should homeowners do to ensure their trees and property are safe?

Meteorologist Max Velocity caused a stir when he said on X that ‘exploding trees are possible in the Midwest and Northern Plains’ as ‘temperatures are forecasted to fall 20 degrees below zero’. This warning about exploding trees may sound dramatic, but the truth is that tree branches can crack and burst when the sap inside freezes and expands.

With storms, heavy snow, and plummeting temperatures sweeping across the US, you may be concerned about trees around your home. Even though the risk of explosions is low, trees can also crack under the weight of ice, so you need to remove snow from trees during winter to alleviate this risk. Here, we look at what causes trees to explode and how to keep trees safe during winter freezes.

Exploding Trees – What Causes This Phenomenon?

Exploding trees may sound like something out of an action film or doomsday prophecy, but it can happen. Though in reality, the term ‘explosion’ may be dramatic, as the trees tend to crack or split rather than erupt.

However, it doesn’t stop the National Forest Foundation from reporting on ‘numerous historic and current observations of trees exploding due to extreme cold’. The Foundation admits that, despite trees evolving to withstand low winter temperatures, on occasions the weather can get ‘so cold that trees can explode’.

It explains: ‘During spells of extreme cold or when trees haven’t had time to acclimate, the life-sustaining sap inside a tree can begin to freeze. Sap contains water, so it expands when frozen, putting pressure on the bark, which can break and create an explosion.’

If the trees don’t actually explode, what is a better way to explain this natural phenomenon caused by extreme winter temperatures?

Bill McNee, a forest health specialist with the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources, told the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel the damage is best described as ‘frost cracks’ accompanied by a large bang.

‘It [the sap freezing] creates a lot of physical pressure that can lead to the frost cracking appearing suddenly, branches can fall off, and people hear this really loud crack from their tree, almost like it's a gunshot,’ says the tree expert.

How Common Are Exploding Trees?

Exploding trees are not common. It is a rare occurrence, and even forest specialist Bill McNee added he has ‘never seen the damage of it’ in Wisconsin.

Any instances are more likely in the coldest US hardiness zones, but homeowners shouldn’t be afraid of extreme cold causing trees on their property to fly apart. Even when it does strike, the damage is not exhaustive, as the tree cracks or splits rather than erupts into a cloud of flying wood and debris.

The amount of potential damage will depend on where the crack occurred. A frost crack in a branch may kill that limb, but the tree can survive OK with some tree pruning to remove the affected branch once the extreme weather has ended. A large crack up the trunk of a tree, on the other hand, may threaten its future.

When a tree splits, however, it is more susceptible to pests and diseases, as insects, bacteria, and fungi have easy access into the large crack that appears.

How to Keep Trees Safe in Freezing Temperatures

You can protect trees from winter weather in many ways, but in colder climates, the number one task on your winter gardening checklist should be removing snow from branches.

Acting quickly to remove snow from plants after heavy snowfall is key, as you don’t want the snow turning to ice. Wet snow can be weighty enough, but ice is much heavier, so you don’t want that snow to freeze.

The accumulation of snow or ice can cause branches to snap under the heavy load, which can be very dangerous and potentially come down on homes, buildings, paths, sidewalks, vehicles, and people.

To remove heavy snowfall from tree branches, use a broom or your arm to push it off in an upward motion. You can use extendable poles (such as this telescopic extension pole at Amazon) to remove it from taller branches, but always stand to the side of the tree and not underneath where the snow is going to fall.

You can protect smaller trees and plants from frost by wrapping them in burlap or frost cloth to insulate them against extreme cold. This can be extra useful on younger, newly-planted trees that are not yet fully hardy to the elements.

Another useful way to protect plants from frost is to add a thick layer of mulching materials around the base to insulate the roots. Use organic types of mulch such as compost, bark, or wood chips, and keep a few inches around the trunk clear to prevent rot from mulch piling against the tree.

Another winter challenge for trees, particularly newly-planted ones, is frost heave. The cycle of freezing and thawing can lift young trees from the ground, exposing the roots to freezing temperatures and damage.

Mulching in the fall is advisable to insulate the soil and prevent the ground from repeatedly freezing and thawing during winter. If you see signs of frost heave, quickly put the young tree back into the ground and add a layer of compost, wood chips, or pine mulch (you can get bags of pine bark mulch at Ace Hardware) to regulate soil temperature.

Watering trees feels like a summer task, not something for winter. However, there are valid reasons why you should consider watering trees during winter, and ignoring the task can leave them at increased risk of harm.

Evergreen and deciduous trees can both need watering in winter. Their growth slows or stops during winter, but that doesn’t make them immune to dry conditions. If the soil is left to dry out for extended periods, trees can suffer damage to their roots and be at risk of pests and diseases.

Natural rainfall can often be enough to hydrate trees over winter, but not always, and that is something I have seen over my years as a professional horticulturist. Newly-planted trees and those in containers are at increased risk of drying out, while even established trees can suffer in dry winters. This guide reveals why you should not ignore watering trees in winter, and how to water plants efficiently.

Watering Trees in Winter: Why, When, and How

If you have deciduous or evergreen trees on your property, add monitoring their moisture levels to your winter gardening checklist.

A soil moisture meter, like this one at Amazon, offers the quickest way to check the moisture levels in the ground, letting you know when to water plants. You may not always have to water your backyard trees in winter, but they may need it for the following reasons:

Why You Should Think About Watering Trees in Winter

Deciduous trees go dormant over winter, but just because they are not actively growing, it does not mean they are unaffected by a lack of water. Even dormant plants are not immune to dry conditions; they can dehydrate and suffer damage.

Meanwhile, evergreen trees do actively grow in winter, albeit more slowly than at other times of the year. They take water from the soil at a steady rate, but lose moisture through their needles, especially to dry winter winds. Regular access to water in the soil is essential to help evergreen trees replenish the moisture they lose during winter.

A lack of water over winter can damage tree roots, reduce a tree’s overall hardiness, and leave any tree more susceptible to pests and diseases. As drying winds, the cycle of freezing and thawing, and a lack of regular rainfall impact soil moisture levels, it pays to monitor your trees.

Shallow-rooted trees, in particular, are more at risk when the top layer of soil dries, including the likes of maple, birch, willow, dogwood, hornbeam, and mountain ash trees. Newly planted specimens and trees growing in pots also require more winter watering than those in the ground.

Finally, watering trees in winter does help protect plants from frost. Moist soil acts as an insulator, absorbing and retaining warmth during the day, and releasing it at night. If you worry about low temperatures affecting trees, watering them before frosts can provide a valuable buffer against the frosts.

When to Water Trees in Winter

In many climates, natural rainfall can provide all the water required for trees throughout winter. However, it is best to check the soil levels during dry spells or periods with little rain.

Even natural rainfall may not always be enough; this can often occur with ornamental or fruit trees in pots, especially if the containers are located near walls or eaves.

Good practice is to check at least once a month, and water as required, for established ornamental trees growing in the soil. This frequency needs to increase to every few weeks for newly-planted trees and those growing in containers.

Use a soil moisture meter, and water when the top four inches of soil are dry. For watering plants in containers, use your fingers to judge, and water if the top two inches of soil feel dry.

Watering trees a few days before a frost is predicted can help shield them with a warm, insulating layer of protection ahead of the temperatures dropping.

How to Water Trees in Winter

Watering trees in winter may not be required, but when you do, there are a couple of key factors to consider. These ensure your trees are healthy throughout winter, and start growing strongly again come spring, once the warmer weather arrives.

Water trees in winter on sunny days. The soil temperatures need to be above 40°F, with no frost or snow on the ground. When conditions are right, it is also recommended to water trees in the morning, to give the moisture ample time to soak into the soil before temperatures drop later in the day.

Aim to water deeply and slowly, and attempt to soak the soil up to 12 inches down in the ground. Infrequent deep soakings are more beneficial to trees than lighter, but more frequent, bouts of watering.

Also, try to water around the dripline of the tree. This is a ring as wide as the tree’s canopy, and soaking the dripline ensures the spreading roots have access to moisture.

It is best to water wide rather than just focus on a small area around the trunk, and a soaker hose can be a useful garden tool to achieve this. A 25-foot soaker hose like this on Amazon can be used to slowly seep water deep into the soil, reducing the need for more regular watering.

Finally, mulching trees with a 2-4 inch layer of organic matter, such as compost or bark chips, will retain moisture in the soil and insulate the tree roots. Just make sure to leave 3-4 inches clear around the trunk; it is a mulching mistake to pile organic matter against the trunk, as it causes rot.

Those with drier yards can give themselves peace of mind by planting drought-tolerant trees, which can thrive even during drier periods.

The likes of a Kentucky coffeetree (you can get a live Kentucky coffeetree at Fast Growing Trees), crepe myrtle, sweet gum, and olive trees rank among some of the best drought-tolerant trees you can add to your property.

Shop Tools For Watering Trees in Winter

Heavy snow accumulating on tree branches can cause them to bend and ultimately snap. Rather than letting this happen, homeowners should keep an eye on their trees and remove a build-up of snow as it accumulates. Luckily, experts have revealed the safest way to remove snow from trees.

The great news is that it isn’t overly technical, and it doesn’t need any fancy tools. Removing snow from trees can be done with a simple household or garden item, or even with your hands. It does, however, need to be done properly and at the right time.

Here, experts discuss how to remove snow from trees, including revealing the proper technique and timing for removing snow from plants. This includes dos and don'ts, so you can work confidently and safely to ensure the trees and shrubs in your yard remain intact over winter. Make sure to add this advice to your winter gardening checklist.

How to Remove Snow From Trees and Shrubs Safely

Being careful is essential when removing snow from trees, as recklessness can cause major issues for the plant and for the gardener.

You can get the job done with common household or garden tools, plus some essential seasonal kit, including thick gardening gloves (such as these winter work gloves at Amazon), and non-slip boots. In some circumstances, such as when clearing snow from branches above head height, a helmet and eye protection may be required (like this helmet and visor combo at Amazon).

It is recommended to act quickly after heavy snowfall to reduce the weight sitting on the branches of trees and shrubs. Wet, heavy snow can exert huge stress on the branches, so don’t let more than a couple of inches build up. There are some plants you should always remove snow from, including conifers, evergreen trees and shrubs whose foliage can hold lots of snow, those with brittle wood, and multi-stemmed trees that can split under the excessive weight.

When it comes to how to remove snow from trees, experts recommend you take a light approach rather than a heavy-handed one. Peter Lowe, Garden Program Manager at The Dawes Arboretum, says: ‘If you do decide to brush snow off a plant or tree, brush it off gently using a broom or your hands.

‘Never shake the tree or remove ice build-up - you’ll potentially cause more damage to the branches.’

After heavy snowfall, brush the snow off the tree in an upward motion with your broom (such as this extendable long handle broom at Walmart) or even your own arm. The upward motion is key, as downward force puts extra weight onto an already weighted branch and risks it breaking. Shaking the branches is also a major no-no, as the branches can be brittle in winter and snap if handled too aggressively.

As well as knowing how to remove snow from trees, understanding the best timing also ensures you don’t do any unnecessary damage to them. Patrick Martin, a seasoned gardener and founder of the Frantoio Grove olive farm, advises, ‘Work during or just after snowfall before it freezes, and if the snow is iced on or crusted, wait for a thaw rather than forcing it off.’

Consider where the snow you are clearing will fall. When removing snow from trees, always stand to the side of the tree and never underneath it. Patrick Martin adds to ‘start at the top’ and recommends, ‘support branches with your free hand while you relieve the load from the center outwards.’

Don’t take risks or try shortcuts when clearing snow, such as using de-icer to remove snow from trees, as the products contain chemicals that are toxic to plants.

If a tree is damaged by the accumulation of snow or the process of removing it, make a sound judgment for when to prune trees. ‘Make sure to prune the tree using proper techniques as soon as possible so it has time to heal before the spring season,’ says Peter Lowe.

It would be a tree-pruning mistake to do any trimming during extreme freezes, when the wood is brittle and prone to cracking. Wait until the temperatures are above freezing to remove any damaged wood.

Snow, frost, and freezing winds can cause a myriad of issues for trees, particularly young trees and trees growing in pots. However, there are ways to protect trees from winter weather. These include making an A-frame over them and wrapping the tree in burlap or frost cloth, or moving potted trees to a sheltered position. You can get burlap rolls at Walmart and horticultural fleece at Amazon to protect plants from frost.

Tools for removing snow from branches

Growing your own fruit is one of the most rewarding things you can do as a gardener, but it isn't always a successful venture. Take peach trees, for example, which require very particular maintenance in winter in order to set fruit the following summer.

Growing peach trees is challenging and failing to give them attention in winter can be one of the biggest mistakes, potentially wiping out next year's harvest and hindering the health of your tree. This is because frost can kill buds, preventing blossom, and therefore fruit development. Not only this, but pests and diseases can also be problematic at this time of year.

But, gardening expert Michael Clarke says there are three simple winter peach tree tasks you can do to provide essential protection from the challenges of the season and ensure a bumper harvest next year.

3 Essential Winter Peach Tree Tasks

Doing these winter peach tree tasks will help you to get your peach tree to fruit by protecting it from frost, stopping pests, and helping it to become stronger.

1. Protect Your Peach Tree From Frost

When it comes to preparing your garden for winter, it's important to put plant protection from frost in place for those that need it most. This includes protecting many fruit trees from frost, like peaches.

'Mulching will guard them against freeze damage, dehydration, and trunk injury,' says Michael.

This is the process of laying down organic matter to insulate plant roots. There are plenty of fall mulching materials readily available in the yard, like fallen leaves, but you can also purchase mulch (like this organic pine bark mulch from Amazon).

'You'll want to mulch the root zone by applying 3-4 inches of wood chips, straw, or shredded leaves around the drip line (the outer edge of the canopy where rain drips down),' he describes.

This will not only insulate peach tree roots, but it will also keep them hydrated over the winter period by improving moisture retention.

'It's also a good idea to install a frost cloth (from Amazon),' Michael adds.

This is a protective covering to stop buds becoming damaged by frost. You can use other materials, too, including using bed sheets to protect plants from frost.

2. Remove Overwintering Pests

There are lots of winter garden pests to be aware of during the coldest months of the year, many of which target peach trees.

There are a few specific peach tree pests to look out for: peach twig borer, green peach aphid, and codling moth, all of which overwinter on peach trees as larvae and eggs.

Come spring, these pests can reap havoc, causing a range of issues from feeding on new shoots and developing fruits, to weakening the tree and causing wilting, leaf distortion, and stunted growth.

This is why Michael says it's important to give your peach tree a winter wash, providing essential pest protection.

'Apply a dormant oil spray (from Amazon) in late winter when the tree isn't yet actively growing and before its buds swell. This will kill overwintering pests,' he advises.

Something to consider: many winter washing products contain chemicals that may harm beneficial insects, so it isn't necessarily the most eco-friendly gardening choice to make.

For this reason, you may decide to opt for natural pest control methods to keep your peach tree safe instead.

This includes clearing leaf piles at the base of your tree (removing hiding spots for pests) and companion planting to deter pests.

3. Prune Damaged Branches

This one is technically for early spring just before new growth: as winter comes to and end Michael urges you to prune your peach tree.

'Peaches fruit on one-year-old wood, so selective winter pruning stimulates fresh, productive shoots, removes diseased or dead branches before spring growth, and improves airflow and sunlight penetration, which ultimately reduces fungal disease and increases fruit size,' he explains.

Because these trees set fruit on one-year-old wood, it's important to be very careful with what you're removing.

'It's best to only remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood as well as crossing or rubbing branches, tall upright shoots known as 'water sprouts', and older, non-productive wood,' Michael advises.

'The goal is to create an open-center or vase shaped tree that allows the most sunlight into the center,' he explains.

You should use essential pruning tools for this, like these bypass pruning shears from Amazon. Always make sure your tools are sharp to make clean cuts and prevent damage to your tree.

FAQs

When Should I Fertilize My Peach Tree?

It's best to fertilize your peach tree in early spring, just ahead of active growth. Using a slow release granular fertilizer (like this from Amazon) will supply your tree with essential nutrients over a number of months, or you can provide an instant boost of nutrients with this liquid peach tree fertilizer from Amazon. Either way, feeding your tree in spring will support growth and fruit development. Avoid fertilizing your peach tree in fall or winter when it's dormant. This could cause root rot or root burn, and hinder the health of your tree.

If you're new to peach growing, it can be tricky to know when the fruit is ready. These fruits are climacteric, meaning they will continue ripening once harvested. But, for the best taste, check our expert advice on when to harvest peaches.

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For those living in colder, wetter climes, the idea of growing your own peaches seems like something of an unachievable dream. But what if I told you there's one hack that dates back to the Victorian era, allowing the rainiest of regions to have homegrown, fresh peaches every year?

It's a technique that has been used at Gravetye Manor in Sussex, England, since world-renowned horticulturalist William Robinson acquired the property in 1884. I had the privilege of recently visiting this astounding Elizabethan property, where Head Gardener Tom Coward let me in on some secrets of the garden's incredible success with growing peaches.

It's all to do with where these trees are located: a Victorian glasshouse. And while growing peach trees in a greenhouse seems like a simple solution, it's only when you look at all the things it protects against, from leaf curl to frost, that you can appreciate just how problem-solving this Victorian horticultural staple is.

Gravetye Manor's Victorian Peach Glasshouse

'We plant peach trees out of tradition,' says Tom Coward. 'William planted peaches and it nods to Victorian growing by using the glasshouses.'

William Robinson was an influential garden writer and horticulturist. His move to Gravetye Manor in 1884 was the beginning of a 50-year garden transformation, whereby he used the 1000+ acres of land to bring his horticultural visions to life.

Today, his vision endures through the dedicated team of gardeners at Gravetye, with an impressive kitchen garden, flower garden, bulb meadow, and more. One of the biggest highlights: the fruit trees.

'You can grow peaches outside here and we've got one growing outside in our walled kitchen garden on the south wall,' Tom says.

'But, the thing about peaches in this country is they get a disease called peach leaf curl if it's been very wet,' he adds.

Peach leaf curl is a fungal disease that causes leaves to become distorted and turn red, often resulting in curling. This subsequently weakens the plant and hinders fruit production. It's worsened by excess rainfall because it allows the fungal spores to spread and creates a moist environment for the disease to thrive in.

This is a problem for chillier, wetter areas of the US, too, with peach trees generally being best-suited to US hardiness zone 6 to zone 8. Although this does depend on the variety – you can find a peach tree for your hardiness zone at Nature Hills.

At Gravetye, this issue is prevented by simply using a Victorian glasshouse. Inside, four impressive peach trees are found growing in beds, including the varieties 'Amsden June' and 'Red Haven.'

'By putting them under glass, you don't get peach leaf curl. You get high-quality fruit early in the season, and you can keep the squirrels away,' says Tom.

'The blossom also never gets frosted, which of course can stop a peach tree fruiting,' he continues. 'I find this is the way to have the best flavor of peach, as they can ripen just fine under glass while still attached to the tree.'

The glasshouse here dates back to William's time, though a restoration in 2012 returned it to pristine condition.

Glasshouses went through a boom during the Victorian era due to a number of reasons, including technological advances, a repeal of the glass tax, making materials more accessible, and innovations in ventilation, heating, and glazing, allowing tropical plants to be grown in this sort of environment.

This growing tradition continues at Gravetye Manor, allowing them to harvest peaches reliably every summer.

Top Tips for Growing Peach Trees in a Greenhouse

Of course, a glasshouse can be costly and space-consuming. But, if you have space for a sizeable greenhouse, you can use this trick in your backyard with compact peach trees and fruit tees to grow in pots.

If you do have the room to plant peach trees in the ground in a greenhouse, make sure to use a well-draining soil type, as they don't enjoy sitting in waterlogged soil.

It can also be helpful to train your peach trees for better ventilation, such as oblique cordon training, fan or espalier, if you have an appropriate wall. Pruning your peach tree is essential for training.

When growing peach trees in a greenhouse, it's also important to ventilate your greenhouse by opening vents and windows. This will reduce the likelihood of fungal diseases and prevent overheating in summer, which can stress your tree and hinder your ability to get a peach tree to fruit.

If you're wondering when to harvest peaches, look for signs like the fruit turning yellow and blushing. It should also give a little when you put pressure on it, and it should have a sweet aroma. The typical harvesting season is through summer, though, as Tom points out, when growing under cover, you are more likely to harvest earlier.

Birch trees are adored for their light foliage and peeling bark. While most people think of the white bark varieties, there are birch trees with gorgeous bark in shades of orange, red, or yellow, too. They are hugely popular trees, but there is a nasty pest that threatens birches, in the shape of the bronze birch borer.

The bronze birch borer is a wood-boring beetle whose larvae cause huge damage under the surface. They feed on the tree's vascular system and essentially starve the tree from the inside, causing thinning foliage, bare branches, dieback, and ultimately death.

If you grow birch trees, it pays to understand the risks that bronze birch borer poses. So I spoke to pest experts to reveal the signs of bronze birch borer damage you need to know, plus their advice for the best ways to deal with infestations.

What is the Bronze Birch Borer?

The bronze birch borer is a wood-boring beetle that targets all species of birch, both native and non-native birch species. They are often attracted to stressed or weakened birch trees and burrow inside to start wreaking havoc.

Jeremy Logsdon, co-owner of Preventive Pest Control in Houston, claims that bronze birch borer is 'a major culprit for birch failure' as they start by causing dieback and can ultimately lead to a tree’s death.

'They are slender, metallic beetles whose larvae are the real troublemakers,' reveals the expert. 'Once the eggs hatch, the larvae tunnel under the bark, feeding on the phloem and xylem - the tree's vascular system. This girdles the branches, cutting off the flow of water and nutrients.'

They are not easy to spot, as the adult bronze birch borer is 1/4 to 1/2 inch long and has a metallic sheen. The troublesome larvae, which are found inside the tree, are pale white, up to an inch in length and with a segmented body and a flat head.

The bronze birch borer life cycle starts in late spring, as adults lay their eggs after overwintering under the bark. Then follow the larvae, which hatch and eat voraciously, causing huge damage to the tree.

These larvae mature and then pupate in the spring, before, as Emma Grace Crumbley, Entomologist at Mosquito Squad Plus, explains: 'After pupating, birch borer adults drill holes in the outer bark and leave the tree to find mates and lay the next generation of wood-destroying beetle eggs.' It is typical to have one generation of bronze birch borers per year.

Signs of Bronze Birch Borer Damage

It can take a few months for the tree to show the first visible signs of bronze birch borer damage, but there are some classic symptoms to look out for.

'Early signs of infestation include leaf discoloration during the growing season, thinning foliage, and bare branches in the upper canopy,' says Whitt Tindol from Peachtree Pest Control. He adds that, as the larvae continue to feed on the tree's water and nutrient transport systems, it leads to 'leaf discoloration, branch dieback, and ultimately, the death of the tree'.

The damage tends to show itself first in the upper crown of the tree. Jeremy Logsdon advises examining your birch trees for 'yellowing and dieback' in the crown, and to keep a close lookout for 'distinctive D-shaped exit holes' that are caused by the adults when they emerge.

Any peeling bark from infested trees may reveal evidence of tunnels underneath, such as swollen ridges that are the scars caused by tunnels, or even burrows packed with sawdust and frass (larval droppings).

How to Control Bronze Birch Borer

There are different birch borer treatments you can consider, depending on the time of year and the scale of the infestations. But here are some recommendations from the experts to consider:

Prune Away Infected Branches

One key part of bronze birch borer control is to prune birch trees and remove infested branches when the adults have gone but the larvae are still tunnelling. If you identify the D-shaped hole in the bark, try to prune trees to remove the infested wood to reduce the population of larvae that can attack your tree.

'In the fall, when temperatures are cool, the best action to take is to prune back birch limbs, especially those showing signs of birch borer damage', advises Emma Grace Crumbley. 'Pruning the trees helps physically remove the pests during a time of year when they are least active.'

If you do have a heavily infested tree, it is beneficial to remove the tree to prevent the pests from spreading to other trees in the vicinity.

Keep Trees Healthy

As highlighted earlier, the bronze birch borer is often attracted to stressed or weakened birch trees. It makes maintaining healthy birch trees a priority, as the pests are unlikely to target healthy trees.

Whitt Tindol claims maintaining healthy, vigorous trees is 'one of the most effective long-term strategies for managing bronze birch borers', adding: 'A key part of this is ensuring consistent and adequate watering throughout the year to support strong growth.'

He adds that planting trees in unsuitable locations also leads to stress and makes them more vulnerable. This includes not planting birch trees where they can get heat stress, especially in warmer climates, and not planting them in lawns, which are not ideal for birch trees.

Birch trees benefit from regular deep watering in extended periods of dry weather and routine mulching. Do not fertilize trees unless they show signs of struggling, as birches don't require lots of feed and can suffer stress from overfertilizing.

Insecticides

Some products can be applied by professionals to combat the bronze birch borer. However, even chemicals may not be enough to save a highly infested tree.

'Late summer to early fall is a prime time for a systemic soil application of insecticides like Imidacloprid (if allowed in your area),' says Jeremy Logsdon. 'The product is absorbed by the roots and moves throughout the tree over the winter, providing preventative protection for the following spring when the adults emerge and lay eggs.'

He adds: 'This fall timing is effective because the larval stage is still active under the bark, and the tree is preparing for dormancy, making it an efficient time for chemical uptake.'

A pest management professional or licensed arborist can help devise a treatment plan for you, including offering options for different insecticides suitable for your tree, the level of infestation, the time of year, and local regulations.

Plant Resistant Species

To reduce the risk of the bronze birch borer, there are more resistant species of birch you can choose when planning your backyard ideas.

The white-barked birch species are most susceptible, with species such as River Birch, Monarch Birch, and Japanese Birch more resistant to the pests.

You can get a Heritage River Birch at Fast Growing Trees

If you want to showcase beautiful bark in your yard, there is a great range of trees to choose from. Whether you want patterned or peeling bark to provide interest in winter, this guide to trees with unusual bark highlights 10 fantastic trees that make bold statements with their bark and offer something unique to a space.

Walnut trees are very special additions to the yard, offering spring yellow-green catkins and delicious walnuts in fall. While they can seem intimidating to grow, a little perseverance can make your walnut growing successful. It's even possible to grow a walnut tree from seed. Although be warned, it takes quite a long time.

Something to be aware of is that walnut trees are not on the list of easiest fruit trees. They're known to be a little challenging, requiring lots of space, consistent moisture, and full sun to truly thrive. Having said that, once you grow a walnut tree from seed, it will become more low-maintenance to care for as it matures.

There are a few steps to follow to grow a walnut tree from seed successfully, but we've made it super simple in this guide. Below are just five steps to grow a walnut tree from seed, alongside expert advice on caring for it correctly. Soon, you'll have buckets of walnuts, whether you're growing an English walnut tree or wish to harvest black walnuts from your yard.

5 Steps to Grow a Walnut Tree from Seed

As with all trees, there are a few tree mistakes to be aware of when growing and caring for a walnut tree. This includes planting your walnut tree in the wrong location and choosing the wrong variety for your local region.

'The trees can reach 50 feet tall and are suitable for US hardiness zones 4-9, but the risk when growing walnuts in colder climates is that the early flowers are susceptible to late spring frosts,' notes Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens.

'As a result, it is better to pick later-flowering varieties for such regions,' he adds. Some examples include 'Lara' and 'Parisienne', which both flower in May.

By following the steps below, you'll be off to a good start with growing a healthy walnut tree in your yard:

1. Harvest Fresh Walnut Seeds

The first place to start with how to grow a walnut tree from seed is locating the seeds.

You can either collect seeds from an existing walnut tree or purchase walnut seeds for planting – find white walnut tree seeds from Amazon and black walnut tree seeds from Amazon.

To harvest walnut seeds, do so in the fall when the outer green husks of walnuts are dark and have split open.

Remove the husk to get to the hard shell (i.e. the seed you will be planting). The seeds need to be whole and firm, and ideally without any cracks or holes in them.

Make sure to then clean the seeds to remove any husk residue. The seeds should be soaked for around 24 hours, which helps soften the shell in preparation for germination.

2. Stratify the Walnut Seeds

After the 24-hour soaking period, it's time for seed stratification. This is a period of cold treatment that helps break dormancy and initiate germination.

You can do this by placing the walnut seeds in a sealed plastic bag in a medium like moist sand or vermiculite. This horticultural sand from Amazon would work well.

You can then place the bag in your fridge for a lengthy three to four months.

During this time, you should check the medium regularly to ensure it is still moist, but not soggy. Add a little bit of water if needed.

3. Plant the Seeds in a Sunny Location

When you reach the end of the cold stratification period, it's time to plant your walnut seeds.

The best time for this is early spring, as you can plant the seeds directly outdoors. Or, you can start the seeds indoors, such as in a greenhouse.

When choosing an outdoor location for your walnut tree, bear in mind the ultimate height and spread of the variety you are growing, and provide it with the right amount of space.

Likewise, it needs around six to eight hours of direct sun daily, and benefits from a well-draining, but moisture-retentive soil type.

'No matter the type of walnut tree, they all want to grow in fertile and well-draining soil, and away from cold winds and frost pockets,' says Drew.

'A word of warning about growing walnuts is that they produce a natural compound called juglone, which inhibits the growth of plants nearby,' he adds.

'Black walnuts are known to produce the most juglone, and you do need to be careful which plants are in the same area as the tree and select those which are more tolerant of juglone.'

The seeds should be planted around one-to-two inches deep, with the pointed edge facing downwards.

This bulb planting tool with a depth marker from Amazon can help you get the measurements correct, while cutting a neat hole to plant into.

4. Water the Seeds Well

While your walnut seeds are germinating, they need consistent moisture.

Water the seeds well when you first plant them, and continue monitoring the soil to ensure it doesn't dry out entirely. This soil moisture meter from Amazon can help with this.

As the seedlings start to emerge (you will spot the shell start to open and break away), you can also mulch to help retain moisture and smother weeds.

5. Transplant Seedlings Started Indoors

If you didn't plant your walnut seeds in their final permanent position, you need to transplant the seedlings outdoors.

This should take place when the seedlings have several sets of leaves and are around six inches tall.

You should also harden off seedlings before planting them in the ground. You can do this by gradually exposing them to outdoor temperatures over the course of a week.

The seedlings should then be transplanted to a permanent spot after the last frost to ensure their survival.

Make sure to also handle the seedlings carefully, so no roots are damaged. You can do this by maintaining as much soil as possible around the roots.

FAQs

Are Walnut Trees Self-Fertile?

Yes, Walnut trees are self-fertile, which means they can produce nuts from a single tree. This is because they have both male and female flowers. However, for a more reliable harvest, Drew Swainston, Gardens Content Editor at Homes & Gardens, recommends: 'You will get a better crop if a second tree is planted somewhere nearby.'

Once your walnut tree is established, it's important to prune a walnut tree to keep it healthy year after year. It's best to do this in late winter when the tree is in dormancy, and you should use essential pruning tools to make clean cuts. These Fiskars loppers from Amazon are a good choice.

Watching the plants in my yard change color ignites an excitement for the cozy fall days ahead. One of the greatest joys is spotting a plant in beautiful fiery and bronze hues that I didn't expect to see, previously disguised with luscious green leaves and neutral blooms.

These unexpected plants for fall color are some real gems to have in your fall garden. Not only do they dazzle with their bright foliage in the latter half of the year, they also provide interest earlier in the year, too, often with spring and summer blooms.

Alongside the best plants for fall color, these unexpected plants for fall color can create a vibrant garden landscape for this chillier season. Here, I take a look at five top choices, plus reveal some expert tips on growing them successfully.

5 unexpected plants for fall color

Unexpected plants for fall color can be found in all corners of the garden, from towering trees to fall flowers for pots, and even grasses. All of them go through a magnificent transition as summer ends, turning red, orange, yellow, and bronze.

1. Sassafras

With yellow-green leaves through spring and summer, you would never assume sassafras would turn into a mixture of orange, red, and even purple colors by the time fall comes around.

It's distinctive lobed leaves and lemon-scented spring blooms also make it attractive in the warmer months. By late fall, this tree even turns into one of the best trees and shrubs for fall berries, with dark blue berries emerging.

It's best to grow sassafras across US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 where it enjoys full sun to partial shade.

'A well-draining, clay, slightly acidic soil type is recommended,' says Plantum plant expert Marina Prokaten.

'The sassafras can grow multiple trunks, so if that doesn’t suit you, you can reduce it to one by pruning in the early stages of its life,' she adds.

Do this by using essential pruning tools (like these bypass pruning shears Amazon) to remove suckers at the base of the tree during early spring.

You can find a young sassafras tree to plant from Amazon.

2. Japanese forest grass

One of the best ornamental grasses for winter, Japanese forest grass goes through a beautiful phase in fall before reaching its golden brown look for winter.

In summer, the mounding clumps of grass are yellow-green and often have creamy variegation. As fall settles in, the blades of the grass turn bright yellow and orange, with sprays of pale green flowers.

When growing Japanese forest grass, choose a partial shade position and maintain evenly moist soil. They are best suited to US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9.

Hold off on pruning until early spring to make the most of the bronze foliage through fall and winter. You can then use tools like these loppers from Amazon to cut it right back to the base.

Shop for Japanese forest grass at Nature Hills.

3. Spirea

If you're looking to fill in gaps of your fall borders, consider adding spirea (suited to US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9). These shrubs are popular not only for the beautiful fiery shades they turn in fall, but also the blooms that appear in summer.

'You can get blooms in shades of white, pink, and red, and they are all very popular with pollinators,' says Drew Swainston, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor.

'Some spirea varieties also have glorious fall color. The likes of Bridal Wreath Spirea (Spiraea prunifolia), Birchleaf Spirea (Spiraea betulifolia), and Japanese Spirea (Spiraea japonica) all turn stunning shades of yellow, red, or orange come the fall,' he adds.

Explore the spirea varieties available on Amazon.

Drew notes these shrubs are low-maintenance and easy to care for once established in your yard.

'Give spirea a good mulch in the fall with organic material like compost, wood chips, or pine needles,' Drew advises. 'This 2-3 inch layer will retain moisture in the soil, suppress weeds, and insulate the roots against the winter frosts.'

4. Arkansas blue star

With dainty blue star-shaped flowers on show from late spring to summer, Arkansas blue star is certainly one of the best unexpected plants for fall color.

It's wispy foliage transitions from vivid green to bright yellow and orange in fall, appearing like a fuzzy sponge from a distance.

It's best to grow Arkansas blue star across US hardiness zones 4 to 9. It prefers a well-draining soil, even growing well in sand and loam soil types.

They tend to stop flowering by early summer, which is when you should prune Arkansas blue star by six to eight inches. This will boost foliage growth through the rest of summer, creating a bushier habit for fall and winter.

Find an Arkansas blue star live plant from Amazon.

5. Blue leadwort

When blue leadwort (plumbargo) blooms first appear in summer, they sit against a background of green foliage. But, as the colder temperatures arrive, the leaves become a marbled red-green.

What's particularly remarkable about the look of blue leadwort in fall is the fact its blue flowers remain right through October. This creates a striking contrast to the red foliage that turns richer as the weeks progress.

This long flowering period makes blue leadwort one of the best flowering shrubs, along with its low-maintenance nature. It doesn't even need deadheading, as the flowers are self-cleaning and drop off once spent.

To achieve the best fall color, plant blue leadwort in well-draining soil. Too-wet can cause rot, resulting in the foliage drooping, curling, and falling off before it has a chance to turn red.

Find a blue leadwort plant from Amazon.

FAQs

Is October a good time to plant trees and shrubs?

Yes, October is a great month to add new trees and shrubs to your yard. This is because the soil is still warm and workable, encouraging root establishment ahead of frostier temperatures. For immediate impact, consider planting shrubs and trees for fall color this month.

One of the best things about adding new plants to your yard is watching how they change throughout the year, surprising you with different colors in different seasons.

For an extra hit of fall foliage galore, check out our report on the Farmers' Almanac peak fall foliage map to find out where to go to see the best colors this season.

October is not the best time to prune lots of trees, but there is one job you can quickly do this month that will benefit many popular backyard trees. That is to remove suckers before they get too large.

Suckers are vigorous, upright stems often seen growing around the base of a tree. They can appear for various reasons. Some are the result of grafts on ornamental or fruit trees, while others may emerge due to damage, and some trees simply sucker prolifically. No matter why they appear, suckers are troublesome and are best removed quickly. They drain nutrients, and removing them in the fall helps the tree conserve energy to get them through the winter.

Part of knowing when to prune trees is understanding the best time of year for large-scale trimming and shaping. But there are smaller jobs you can do outside of that window, including removing dead and damaged branches and suckers. If you haven't removed them so far this year, then fall is a great time to pop outside and quickly trim off these unwanted shoots. Trust me, your trees will thank you for doing it.

Trees to prune in October - these 7 are known to sucker prolifically

Here, we highlight seven trees renowned for being prone to suckering, including some that spread aggressively and need controlling. But all of them will benefit from having these suckers removed before they get too large. This guide also reveals the best pruning windows for each, along with when you should never prune these trees.

1. Lilac

First on the list of trees to prune in October is lilac. It makes a stunning addition to any garden, with showy, fragrant blooms in shades of purple, pink, or white in spring and early summer.

There are many different varieties of lilacs to grow as part of your backyard ideas, but some varieties sucker more than others. In particular, common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) and early bloomers are notorious for suckering.

The suckers take energy away from the tree, and will become harder to remove when they get woody and harden over the winter.

You prune lilacs after flowering, as trimming later in the year risks cutting off next year's flower buds. But you can cut off suckers this month – if you see them in the fall, remove them straight away. It is not a complete waste, though, as you can replant lilac suckers to grow new plants.

If you want to prevent suckers, you can use a 'sucker-stopper' product that inhibits sprouting. Like this Sucker Punch liquid, available at Amazon, which you apply to plants after pruning the area.

2. Dogwood

Cornus, or dogwood, is a genus of up to 60 species of trees and shrubs. There are types for flowers, foliage, and fruits, making it possible for a dogwood to suit any garden.

But dogwoods are prone to suckering. However, this is merely a small price to pay for growing these spectacular flowering trees.

Whether you have native dogwood trees like Cornus florida, Cornus alternifolia, or Cornus nuttallii, or the popular types like Cornus jousa, Cornus sanguinea or Cornus alba, it pays to remember to remove suckers when they are small.

October is not a good month to prune dogwood trees for shape. The best time is late winter, during dormancy, as the trees bleed sap when pruned during the growing season. However, you should remove suckers if you haven't already this year.

If these suckers are spouting from deep, such as through grass or in a flower bed, you do need to remove them as far back as possible. It is beneficial to scrape away the soil to reach the base of the sucker, where a sharp, durable tool like this small-handed spade at Walmart will come in useful.

3. Crabapple

You can understand why so many people grow crabapple trees. The spring blossom, attractive foliage, and those beautiful small fruits come fall. You can plant crabapples for different color combos of flowers and fruits, and there are even dwarf varieties – meaning you can grow fruit trees in pots in smaller spaces.

Most crabapple trees that gardeners grow at home are grafted. It means the rootstock differs from the top, and it is often chosen to control the vigor or improve the hardiness of the tree. However, you will get suckers coming from the rootstock. These should be removed, as they take energy away from the rest of the tree and, if left, grow into a different type of tree.

Save major crabapple pruning until late winter or early spring. This month, take a moment to look for any dead branches, any damaged by fall storms, and suckers shooting up around the base of the tree.

Remove any of these with a sharp pruning tool this month to keep the plant healthy. Keeping your pruning tools clean and sharp is vital to preserving long-term plant health. It can be as simple as having a pocket-sized tool sharpener like this one at Amazon so you can sharpen your tools while out in the garden.

4. Plum

Plums can be one of the easiest fruit trees to grow, providing you with a delicious harvest of sweet fruits year after year. One thing that helps make them so simple is that they are grafted, which can be for various reasons. It may be for fruit quality, resistance to diseases, controlling their size, or to make a tree more suited to specific locations.

You may be unaware that the type of plum tree you are growing differs from the rootstock it is grafted to. But you should be, as the tree will sucker from below the graft union, and start developing stems that are different to the plum tree you planted.

It is always an issue that suckers are stronger and more vigorous, which is why you want to remove them as soon as possible. It can be quick and simple. But, left for too long, they can quickly get too large to remove with pruning shears and have sucked a lot of energy away from the main tree. And, if left for several seasons, it may be difficult to distinguish between the sucker and the original stem.

Knowing when to prune plum trees is important. They don't want to be pruned in late winter or early spring like other fruit trees; plums are trimmed in spring or early summer. Pruning plums at the same time as you do apples or pears leaves them susceptible to silver leaf or bacterial canker.

5. American hazelnut

Corylus americana, the American hazelnut or American hazel, is a small deciduous, often multi-stemmed, tree that reaches up to 16 feet.

The tree can make an excellent addition to a wildlife garden. Its three-inch-long catkins are food for grouse and turkeys in spring, and its edible nuts are food for squirrels, deer, and woodpeckers.

The American hazelnut regularly sends suckers up from underground rhizomes. These are sent from as far as four inches under the surface, meaning you want to dig down as far as possible to remove these.

It is beneficial to prune these suckers away in the fall before they get a winter under their belts to harden off. Take a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears and cut the sucker as close to the base as possible.

If the sucker is more than half an inch wide, use a pair of loppers like these Fiskars steel blade garden bypass loppers at Amazon that can cut through stems up to 1.5 inches.

6. American elder

Sambucus canadensis, known as the American elder or American elderberry, is a native tree to eastern and central parts of North America. As an ornamental tree, it offers beauty with creamy spring flowers and dark, glossy fruits in the fall. These edible fruits can be used to make pies, jellies, preserves, or tea.

American elderberry is another fruiting shrub or small tree known for suckering. It can aggressively spread, but is not considered invasive. If you don't want the plant to spread in your garden, remove these suckers regularly, ideally do the job annually and add it to your spring or fall gardening checklist.

7. Staghorn sumac

The staghorn sumac, Rhus typhina, is a troublesome tree. This deciduous tree is native to North America and has attractive foliage that turns stunning shades of red, orange and yellow in the fall.

Unfortunately, it is considered an invasive tree in many states due to its aggressive root system. It has a vigorous suckering habit that needs managing if you have one in your yard. Pruning and removing suckers are a prerequisite. It requires digging around the sucker to get its base and pulling it out with as many roots as possible.

To prevent the tree from spreading, you can dig a trench and install a protective barrier around your staghorn sumac, such as this bamboo shield barrier available from Amazon.

There may not be lots of trees to prune in October, but that doesn't mean there aren't lots of other highly effective gardening jobs to do this month. Aside from trees, this guide to plants to prune in October features hedges, shrubs, and perennials that will benefit from some TLC this month. You can also discover some perennials to divide in October if you want lots of new plants to add to your garden.

The aesthetic reach of your garden relies on judiciously and strategically planting a wide array of species that perform throughout the different seasons. A garden that thrills in the height of summer, whilst wonderful, is not necessarily a sign of skill or panache, but a garden that puts on a different theatrical performance throughout all four seasons is a truly wondrous thing.

To make a truly magnificent winter garden, and to still have color and visual interest at Christmas time, you will need to incorporate some flowers that will last until December, along with shrubs, grasses, perennials, and trees that will throw out their profusion of flowers in December, or thereabouts, too.

Here are five of the very best trees that bloom right up to, and in some cases beyond Christmas, even on the bleakest, iciest of December days.

1. Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox)

As befits its name, Wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) has the most deliciously sweet and intense fragrance, which fills a room in seconds.

The glossy leaves smell like cinnamon and nutmeg, and the yellow bell-shaped flowers, which bloom in winter from early December to February, smell like candy canes and vanilla. Grown against a wall, come Christmas time, this tree, often grown as a large shrub, is a pure delight.

The butter yellow flowers erupt in the middle of winter, just when everything else in the garden is looking sleepy. Happily, minimal pruning is required, and it puts on a theatrical display all year round.

Glossy chlorophyll-rich leaves in summer, and canary yellow, highly perfumed flowers in the dead of winter.

Hardiness: Zones 6-9

Height: 10-15ft

2. Stawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo)

If you are hunting for evergreen trees for gardens that are at their very best in winter, then the strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) is a frontrunner.

A strawberry tree is a low-maintenance, easy-to-grow tree with handsome glossy leaves, and come October, it is smothered in beautiful red fruits, which precede the prettiest white flowers that appear in November and continue through winter.

Hardiness: Zones 6-10

Height: 6-16 feet

3. Prunus x subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' Tree

Unlike most cherry trees, Prunus subhirtella 'Autumnalis Rosea' does not flower in the springtime, but instead its ballet slipper pink flowers appear from November through to March.

It is such a delight to see such pretty pink plumes of flowers on grey, icy days. Looking out to it flowering away in the Christmas snow is like something from a magical landscape painting.

In October, the green leaves turn first auburn and then fiery red color, which only adds to their year-round interest. This young cherry tree, available at Fast Growing Trees, will flower in November, and you will still have blossom sweeping across the garden on Christmas Day.

Hardiness: Zones 4-10

Height: 10-26ft

4. Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel)

Witch hazels are stunning low maintenance trees that everyone ought to grow, if they hope for winter-time flowers.

The intense fragrance is almost too good to be true, and is the smell of Christmas for me.

Witch hazel is also one of the best trees to grow in pots, and will tolerate pretty much any conditions.

There are a few varieties that are worth considering. Hamamelis x intermedia 'Diane', which you can purchase from fast-growing trees, has flowers in a striking reddish hue and looks simply sublime at Christmas, or, if it's the bright yellow you love, Hamamelis virginiana, available at Nature Hills is a US native variety that is happy in full shade.

Height: 15 ft

Hardiness: Zones 3-9

5. Parrotia persica 'Vanessa'

Persian ironwood 'Vanessa' is an incredibly pretty small tree. The leaves emerge as a flame red when young, turn fabulously bright green in summer, and then intense and inky hues of purple, red and orange in October and November.

The most beautiful festive red flowers then emerge in winter right through to Easter. A real showstopper of a tree.

It's not an enormous tree, so it's ideal for small garden ideas or to be grown in pots, either side of a doorway. It never stops putting on a show, and around Christmas, you can bring in the beautiful red flowers and arrange them among ivy and hellebores for the Christmas table.

Hardiness: Zones 4-8

Height: 8-10 metres

Many marvellous container plants will bloom by Christmas, too, such as winter jasmine and camellias. If you do grow any of these trees in containers, and most of them will live a happy, albeit constricted life in a container, it might be worth protecting them if you have an intense frost.

An easy and sustainable option is these frost plant blankets, available from Amazon, which can just be used on the days and nights where a deep frost is expected.

If you're lucky enough to live in a tropical clime, you might have experimented with growing fruit like bananas. These trees find it trickier to produce fruit in colder regions, so it's worth taking advantage if you do live somewhere sunny. Having said that, you might still struggle to get a banana tree to fruit if you aren't providing some optimal conditions.

Growing a banana tree offers a somewhat quick reward. 'Most plants take around 9–18 months to produce their first bunch, usually in the warmer months if you are outside the tropics areas,' says Lisa Tadewaldt, a tree care expert and owner at Urban Forest Pro. This short amount of time is aided by some specific conditions to support fruit development, even when it comes to growing cold hardy banana trees.

With sufficient warmth, light, water, and the help of some plant food, you can be well on your way to harvesting homegrown bananas. Here, Lisa shares her top three methods for trying to get a banana tree to fruit if yours is proving to be stubborn.

3 ways to get a banana tree to fruit

Banana trees typically grow best in US hardiness zones 9 to zone 11, though cold hardy varieties have a tolerance down to zone 5. It's best to ensure your banana tree variety is suited to your local climate and if it isn't, consider switching it out for a better suited option. You can explore the range of banana tree varieties available at Nature Hills.

1. Fertilize your banana tree regularly

If there's one thing to know about banana trees, it's that they're heavy feeders. Fertilizer can go a long way in helping them to fruit.

'They are really heavy feeders, so regular fertilizing, especially with extra potassium, makes a big difference,' Lisa says.

You should fertilize fruit trees like your banana tree monthly during spring and summer, when active fruit production is happening.

For a banana tree, look for fertilizers high in potassium to support fruit production. This is the 'K' in plant fertilizer numbers, which you can find on the label of fertilizer products.

Some good options include this banana tree fertilizer from Amazon and this fruit tree fertilizer from Amazon. Both of these feeds will give your banana tree a boost of essential plant nutrients to encourage fruiting.

2. Provide your banana tree with plenty of warmth

'Banana plants need steady warmth, typically above 75°F, lots of sun, and rich, well-drained soil to fruit,' Lisa says.

'Without at least 6–8 hours of bright light and consistent warmth, the plant will put its energy into growth rather than fruiting,' she adds.

Of course, the exact ideal temperature for your banana tree will depend on the variety you're growing. Cold-hardy varieties, for example, may even fruit in temperatures around 60°F, though the higher tends to be better.

If your banana tree is already in a permanent position, it can be tricky to increase warmth. Consider using things like this burlap from Amazon to provide insulation, or try mulching to trap warmth in.

If, however, you happen to be growing a more compact variety as one of the best trees to grow in pots, it's easy to relocate your banana tree somewhere warmer. Consider using a greenhouse or positioning it against a house wall which will give off heat.

To keep track of temperatures for your banana tree, use this soil thermometer from Amazon.

3. Keep your banana tree's soil evenly moist

Getting watering right is also fundamental in trying to get a banana tree to fruit, as too much water could hinder its health and ability to set fruit.

'Watering is super key,' Lisa says. 'Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy, since overwatering can damage roots and underwatering will stress the plant,' she explains.

Just like houseplant root rot, overwatering your fruit trees can rot roots and, as Lisa says, underwatering can cause stress that stunts growth. Prolonged exposure to soggy conditions or drought can even lead to the death of your banana tree.

If you live in a hotter clime with little rainfall, it's important to keep moisture levels up. Using a soil moisture meter (from Amazon), you can check for when your banana tree's soil has dried out in the top couple of inches. This is when you should give your tree a deep watering.

FAQs

Are banana trees self-pollinating?

Many banana trees actually don't rely on pollination to produce fruit. This is referred to as 'parthenocarpic,' and is typically in reference to commercial bananas, which are seedless. Wild banana varieties, on the other hand, do require pollination. They aren't typically self-pollinating, however, and rely on pollinators like fruit bats, birds, and insects.

Another trick for trying to get a banana tree to fruit is a bit of pruning:

'For best results, remove excess suckers (offshoots) so the main stem can focus on developing fruit,' Lisa says.

You should also take care to overwinter your banana tree to ensure it remains healthy and in fit condition for fruiting over the harshest months.

Shop fruit tree essentials

Fall offers a great opportunity to plant trees. Newly planted trees can establish themselves strongly and quickly in warm, moist soils and enjoy the cooler temperatures of early fall. There are no better trees to pick than native ones, and here is our pick of fast-growing trees to plant in September that are native to the states.

Whether or not fall is the ideal time to plant trees may depend on your climate. Any plant needs time to develop roots before freezing temperatures arrive, so ideally, plant them 4-6 weeks before your average first frost date.

If you have planting native trees on your fall gardening checklist, it can be beneficial to pick those known to grow quickly – and there is quite a selection to choose from. Here we highlight seven fast-growing trees to plant in September, including what makes these native trees so great and some planting tips to help them thrive in their new home.

Fast-growing trees to plant in September

Fast-growing flowering trees can begin to put on a show in their early years and will be impressive for decades to come. Picking the best native tree for your yard depends on your space, climate, and soil type, so ensure that any tree is suitable for your garden.

Whether you want a tree for spring blooms, fruit, fall color, or all of the above, there are options in our list of fast-growing trees to plant in September.

1. River birch

River birch (Betula nigra) is also known as black birch, and it is a native tree to the eastern US. There are over 60 types of birch trees around the world, and river birch is a popular fast-growing variety that is resistant to the bronze birch borer, a problematic and serious pest of birches.

There are many reasons to plant river birches this month, even beyond their resistance to pests. River birches offer interest throughout the seasons, but come into their own in fall and winter. The dark foliage turns a lovely yellow shade in the fall, and the pink bark peels away to reveal a lighter, inner, attractive winter bark.

The River Birch is a medium-sized deciduous tree that can grow to 40-60 feet tall and 30 feet wide, and it is suitable for US hardiness zones 4-9. It is a tree that prefers full sun or partial shade and can tolerate a variety of soil types, including wet soils or rain gardens.

You can get a fast-growing Heritage River Birch at Fast Growing Trees that is highly adaptable and tolerates both wet and dry sites.

2. Tulip tree

The tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) is in the magnolia family – and not related to tulips – and is one of the largest native trees in North America. It gets its name from the tulip-shaped flowers that appear in shades of yellow-green in late spring or early summer.

A tulip tree is a fast-growing tree that can reach 60-80 feet at maturity, with a broad canopy spanning 30-40 feet. It has large lobed leaves that resemble the shape of a violin (it is sometimes known as the fiddle tree as a result), and the seed clusters sit upright on branches. The tree then turns a gorgeous golden color in the fall.

You can grow a tulip tree by planting one in the early fall, provided there is enough time for roots to develop before the onset of winter. A tulip tree is suited for US hardiness zones 5-9 and ideally wants at least six hours of sunlight daily.

You can find live Liriodendron tulipifera seedlings at Amazon to plant in September.

3. Eastern redbud

The native eastern redbud tree (Cercis canadensis) makes one of the best trees for spring blossom, as they are one of the first to flower each year.

They are covered with bright pink and purple blooms from March onwards that are adored by pollinators, including hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees, who are out looking for food during early spring.

Eastern redbuds can grow 30 feet tall and 30 feet wide, but homeowners can prune a redbud tree to keep the size to a more manageable level. Suitable for US hardiness zones 4-9, redbuds like moist, well-draining soil in a part-shade spot in the garden. They can grow in full sun, but will want protection from the afternoon sun in warmer climates.

You can get a 4-5-foot live container-grown Eastern redbud tree at Nature Hills to plant in your garden this month. It is a fast-growing tree that can grow around two feet a year in optimal conditions.

4. Northern catalpa

The northern catalpa (Catalpa speciosa) is native to the midwestern United States and is a fast-growing deciduous tree with a lifespan of around 60 years.

A catalpa always impresses with arching branches filled with large heart-shaped leaves, which turn yellow before shedding in early fall, and showy blooms. If you want a tree that attracts hummingbirds, a catalpa will undoubtedly do that with their fragrant, white, orchid-like flowers in late spring and early summer.

Northern catalpa can reach 60-70 feet high and 20-40 feet wide, growing around two feet per year, and is suitable for US hardiness zones 4-8.

You can get a potted northern catalpa sapling at Amazon to add to your backyard ideas in September. Plant it in a sunny spot in well-draining soil to add an attractive tree for shade to your garden.

5. Crabapple

If you are looking for an attractive tree for all seasons that can thrive happily in a smaller space, then consider growing a crabapple tree.

With a crabapple, you get spring blossoms in colors from white to red, ornamental shapes and shade to relax in during summer, and then small fruits in the fall that reach the size of a golf ball and can either be used to make jelly or left for wildlife to enjoy.

You want to plant crabapple trees in a sunny location in US hardiness zones 3-8. As well as in the ground, crabapples also make low-maintenance trees for pots, provided you choose a dwarf variety. Speaking of size, crabapples come in various sizes, ranging from dwarf varieties reaching three feet to full-size trees that can get up to 30 feet.

Native types of crabapple include sweet crabapple, Pacific crabapple, southern crabapple, and prairie crabapple. You can get live container-grown southern crabapple trees at Amazon that produce fragrant pink blossoms in spring.

6. Serviceberry

Serviceberries (Amelanchier) are small deciduous trees that offer interest throughout the seasons.

The annual show from this under-rated tree starts with a spectacular white blossom in spring – though some types have pink blooms – which is followed by small, dark berries in summer, then the foliage turns a bright red or orange come fall.

It is also a great tree for wildlife. The blossom provides nectar for bees and other pollinators in spring, and the berries are vital food for lots of different bird species.

Serviceberries may be smaller in stature compared to some other trees, but they are fast-growing and can develop at around two feet a year. It is suitable for smaller gardens, and you can even get varieties to grow in large containers.

The Allegheny serviceberry (Amelanchier laevis) is a great native species to grow in full or partial sun. You can get bare-root Allegheny serviceberry plants at Amazon to grow in US hardiness zones 4-8.

7. Ohio buckeye

The Ohio buckeye (Aesculus glabra) is the state tree of Ohio and a native tree in many states, ranging from Pennsylvania in the West to Kansas in the East to Alabama in the South.

It is a small to medium deciduous tree that can grow up to 40 feet tall in US hardiness zones 3-7. It can tolerate cold but will struggle in warmer southern climates.

An Ohio buckeye thrives in moist soils and full sun or partial shade, provided it gets at least five hours of sunlight a day. The reward for planting an Ohio buckeye is bright-green leaves in spring, which turn darker in summer, and then yellow in the fall. It also grows yellow flowers and round fruits, which are the small buckeyes encased in a spikey husk.

They are low-maintenance trees, and you can get an Ohio Buckeye Tree at Nature Hills to plant this month into any well-drained soil.

If you want blooms come spring, there are more planting jobs you can do this month. Our guide to perennials to plant in September features lots of spring flowers you can plant in the ground or containers this month to provide color and blooms throughout spring. From early spring bulbs to colorful additions that bridge the gap between spring and summer, there are great options for planting in September.

Related to roses, crabapple trees have clusters of spring flowers made up of five, often slightly cupped petals which are followed by small apple-like fruits. Crabapples are distinguished from eating apples and cooking apples by having smaller fruits with an extremely sour taste.

Although most crabapple trees have unremarkable green foliage, some varieties have purple leaves in spring and summer, making a very effective backdrop for the flowers. While some develop colorful fall foliage in yellow, orange, gold, red or maroon tones.

The fall fruits come in yellow and orange, red and almost black and can provide a spectacle as colorful as the spring flowers. As one of the best fruit trees crabapples are important for insects and other wildlife, and here is everything you need to know to grow one.

Crabapple trees: key facts

The Brooklyn Botanic Garden has as a high opinion of crabapple trees. 'Among the showiest of spring bloomers,' they say, 'crabapples are also wonderful foliage plants in summer and fall, and they provide beautiful fruit displays late in the season.

'Furthermore, they come in a range of sizes and forms, many of which create interesting silhouettes in the winter landscape.'

• Plant type: Hardy tree
• Mature size: 5-40ft (1.5-12m)
• Soil type: Any fertile soil
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, slightly alkaline
• Flowering time of year: Spring
• Flower color: White, pink, wine red
• Time to plant: Fall, winter, early spring
• Hardiness zones: USDA zones 4-8
• Scientific name: Malus
• Common name: Crabapple

The different types of crabapple tree

• Lawn specimens: A crabapple tree makes a fine lawn specimen, most yards will have space for one that will bring three seasons of color and interest. ‘John Downie’ is probably the top pick. Or a weeping variety such as ‘Sun Rival’, adds an attractive summer shape and winter silhouette.
• Dwarf crabapples: If you're after a tree for small gardens, dwarf crabapples with naturally limited growth are now available and can be planted in patio borders. These are also ideal as a fruit tree to grow in pots, either on the deck or patio. Look for the narrowly upright ‘Scarlet Sentinel’ or the neat weeping ‘Red Jade’.
• Disease resistant: Some varieties of crabapple are susceptible to scab disease or mildew, in particular some older varieties are noted for disease ruining the display. Fortunately, there are disease-resistant options and these include the slow and upright Admiration (‘Adirondack’), ‘Professor Sprenger’ and Sugar Tyme (‘Sutyzam’).
• Wildlife choices: Some varieties produce far more fruits than others, and some are more colorful – but all are appreciated by birds. Look for ‘Golden Hornet’ and ‘Golden Raindrop’ (golden fruits), Admiration (‘Adirondack’) (orange-red) or ‘Scarlet Sentinel’ in particular.

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How to care for a crabapple tree

When it comes to planting a crabapple tree, choose a sunny site, or one with a little shade, and soil that is neither parched nor waterlogged. Crabapples do not require any special treatment. Plants in containers can be planted at any time from fall to spring, whenever the ground is not waterlogged or frozen.

Plant bare root trees and balled-and-burlapped trees in a narrower window, from late fall to early spring. Plant in containers at any time. Water well, and mulch. Be prepared to irrigate if necessary in the first year.

Support is important when it comes to crabapple tree care. A 4ft (1.2m) tree stake, such as this kit from Amazon, knocked in at an angle, with the tree tied to its stake about 2ft (60cm) above the ground is ideal. Check tree ties regularly and tighten if necessary.

Crabapples may need irrigation in their first year or two. A fall mulch of bark or other weed-free humus will help make them relatively drought tolerant trees with their roots staying moist. Mulching also prevents weed growth.

Common problems with crabapple trees and how to solve them

There are several diseases that can attack crabapple trees. Scab shows as black or brown blotches on leaves or fruit. Canker kills patches of bark and eventually encircles branches causing them to die. Mildew is a white dusty coating on foliage which eventually turns brown and crisp.

Control of scab and mildew is difficult, as spraying a whole tree is usually impractical and, there are few suitable treatments. Canker, a common apple tree disease, can only be controlled by cutting out damaged growth.

The best solution is prevention. Try to choose disease-resistant varieties such as Admiration (‘Adirondack’) and Prairifire crabapple, available at Fast Growing Trees, as these are much less susceptible to disease. Ensure that your crabapple tree is growing well and is not becoming overshadowed by nearby trees as they are not shade-tolerant trees.

The only pests that may be a problem are aphids (greenfly etc), and spraying a whole tree is not only impractical but a large number of beneficial insects may also be killed. A better solution is to attract birds and wildlife into your garden, as many birds feed their young with aphids collected from gardens.

How to use crabapple trees in your yard

There are many reasons to choose a crabapple tree as your new backyard tree, but these are three of the main benefits.

• Flowers: Sometimes seen as valuable flowering trees, better even than cherries, crabapple flowers come in pure white. White flowers opening from pink buds, pink, and shades of red. The flowers are almost always single, rarely double. Some are scented. Many varieties are so prolific that the clouds of flowers hide the foliage in spring.
• Foliage: Crabapple trees provide three kinds of foliage color. Some varieties, including ‘Profusion’ available at Fast Growing Trees, have young shoots that are purple maturing to green. ‘Royal Raindrops’ at Fast Growing Trees, has purple foliage that retains its color from spring until fall.
• Fruits: 'Persistent fruits such as some crabapples are an important food for wintering birds such as finches and sparrows,' say the New York Botanical Garden. The fruits of crab apple trees have three virtues. First, there’s color – from deep red, almost black, through brighter red and orange tones to yellow. The fruits of larger varieties make delicious jelly and the fruits of all varieties are popular with birds, through fall and sometimes well into winter.

Pruning crabapple trees

Crabapples rarely need trimming but a little light maintenance or shaping may be necessary. When it comes to knowing how to prune crabapples, cut out dead, diseased, or broken twigs and branches, and be sure also to cut out any suckers – these are strong growing shoots that sprout from the trunk or the roots.

If a branch is damaged or needs more serious pruning, cut it out. You may need a pruning saw if your pruners are not up to the job.

As with pruning fruit trees, timing is key to knowing when to prune crabapple trees. It's best to do it immediately after flowering. You will miss out on most of the fruits in the fall, but leave it any later and you will reduce the number of next year’s flowers and fruits.

FAQs

How tall do crabapple trees grow?

Most crabapples will grow to about 20-25ft (6-7.5m) in height, although many, including Coralburst (‘Coralcole’), will reach only 10-12ft (3-3.5m). Cinderella (‘Cinzam’), is even smaller, reaching about 7ft (2m) while the very dwarf ‘Tina’ is tiny at about 5ft (1.5m).

Some nurseries control the size at which their trees mature by grafting them on to roots that either restrict the growth of the tree and keep it dwarf, or allow it to grow taller and more vigorously. Specialist nurseries will provide advice on this.

Why is my crabapple tree turning yellow?

There are number of reasons why the leaves on your crabapple tree are turning yellow.

• Drought: The leaves of newly planted crabapples will turn yellow if the plant has not been watered enough. If there is no rain, water well every week and top with a mulch to help prevent drying out.
• Fall color: Some varieties of crabapple are supposed to turn yellow in fall, the fall color is part of their appeal. These include Centurion (‘Centzam’), ‘Donald Wyman’, ‘Professor Sprenger’ and ‘Red Sentinel’.
• Apple scab: The first sign of apple scab is black or dark brown blotches on the leaves. Later they often turn yellow before dropping off.

Will deer eat my crabapple tree?

The short answer is yes – although crabapples are not top of the list of the deer’s favorite foods, they aren't exactly deer resistant plants. The experts at New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, who have studied deer resistance of garden plants and asked other experts, have compiled a ratings system that divides plants into four categories.

From 'Rarely Damaged' to 'Frequently Severely Damaged', crabapples are rated in the third group as 'Occasionally Severely Damaged'.

So your crabapple tree will definitely need protection if you have deer in your yard. Deer will be unable to reach the higher parts of mature crabapples but will eat the lower branches. A fence is the best solution.

Most crabapples are not edible straight from the tree, but make wonderful jelly, perfect for making as you start to get your kitchen ready for Thanksgiving. Crabapple jelly is a real treat – great with pork, and with lamb, and also cheese. And you don’t need to fiddle around adding pectin, crabapples already have more than their fair share.

Choose to grow a variety with large and plentiful fruits such as ‘Golden Hornet’, ‘Harry Baker’, and Jelly King (‘Mattfru’).

Olive trees, to me, are an intrinsic part of the character, look and feel of the undulating landscape of the Mediterranean. Alongside grapevines, they’re everywhere in Italy, Spain, France, and Portugal, lining fields in their neat, silvery rows or standing in pots in sleepy town squares. When I worked as a gardener in Italy a few years back, I remember thinking how omnipresent these ancient trees were.

If you are restricted by space, growing olive trees in containers is a clever solution. The pot naturally restricts their size, keeping them compact and manageable, while still offering that evergreen coverage. I’ve seen them used beautifully on scorching balconies for privacy, or on sun-baked terraces where their silvery foliage remains year-round.

So, if you’re looking for easy, low-fuss fruiting trees for containers, learning how to grow olive trees in pots is a good idea. Here's everything I know about growing these tough and resilient trees after several years working as a professional gardener.

How to grow olive trees in pots

There are so many attractive (and delicious) fruit trees to grow in pots, although you would be hard pushed to find a species that is quite so forgiving as the humble olive.

While it might not be your first thought when seeking plants for containers, these tough, reliable small trees that thrive on neglect will happily grow in pots in sunny and dry regions, so long as a few simple rules are abided by.

Live olive tree starter plants can be ordered right now via Amazon.

Growing advice for olive trees in pots

When I worked in Tuscany, we grew several olive trees in large, aged terracotta pots alongside impressive lemon trees. Doing this anywhere, I think, can create that Mediterranean look and feel.

In general, I have found olives to be some of the easiest fruit trees to grow in pots, although you do need to get the basics right, namely good drainage and plenty of sunshine.

Most olive trees, or Olea europaea, are hardy from zone 6 to zone 10, although a few are a little more tolerant of cold weather than others.

For example, I have found the Olea Europaea 'Arbequina' variety, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery, to be relatively tough during winter, although, as with most olives, some leaves may drop if there is an extended snowy spell.

Choose a decent-sized container to start with – I’d say at least 14 or so inches wide and deep.

Something like this aged terracotta Keilson container with an attractive scalloped rim, available via Wayfair, will look beautiful, especially after a few years, when slightly dimmed by weather and wear.

Make sure the pot has good drainage hole/s, and use a gritty, free-draining mix – something like a blend of potting compost with horticultural grit or sand works well.

Position your pot in a sunny spot, and water well. Don't expect masses of growth in that first season, but once established, your olive tree will begin to bush out.

Ongoing care for olive trees in pots

While these plants with silver foliage are known to be drought-tolerant, deep watering is important. Believe me, skipping your early morning or late evening watering schedule during a hot week can spell disaster for your plants.

In Tuscany, even with the unremitting Italian summer heat, they were fine so long as we gave them consistent, deep drinks through July, August and September (which can be as much as every day when the mercury soars).

Feeding is the other essential. I find that a suitable olive fertilizer (or a liquid citrus feed) once a month through the growing season will do the job. You shouldn't really have any need to feed more than this.

Olive tree fertilizer is available to order from Amazon.

In terms of how to prune olive trees, I would suggest doing so in the springtime, usually around April or early May.

Grab a pair of clean, sharp snips, and simply thin the canopy to let a little more light and air in, and keep your tree in the desired shape (which can be multi-stem, standard, or even weeping).

FAQs

Do I need to winterize my olive tree pot?

Olive trees can usually withstand frost and a little snow during winter. In Tuscany, for example, they managed just fine through long, cold spells. However, in pots, it is a good idea to move the containers closer to your home or group them together, which can provide a micro-climate and provide a little more shelter. If you reside in a northern region (like zone 4 or 5), I would also suggest that you cover your tree with burlap or a frost sheet to protect your olive tree in winter.

Finally, in terms of repotting your olive tree, I recommend doing so every three years. Refreshing the compost and providing a small amount of extra room will revitalize your aging olive.

For more inspiration, see our guide to landscaping with olive trees, and make the most of these tough evergreens in your backyard this year.

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There are over 100 species of magnolias growing worldwide that might be considered evergreen, although the most famous is surely the southern magnolia, or Magnolia grandiflora, found growing across much of the southeastern United States, from Texas to North Carolina.

With elongated glossy leaves, evergreen magnolias add a year-round green backdrop to plots, and, with those big, creamy blooms, what's not to love? Learning how to take evergreen magnolia cuttings in summer is a good way to boost your tree collection for free, and while it might require a little patience, the payoff is surely worth it.

The trick to success? Getting the timing right. After all, you can do everything correctly, but if it is the wrong time of year, you are doomed to failure. So, if you already know how to grow and care for a magnolia tree, it is not too much of a stretch to get on with some propagating this summer, too. Just don't leave it too late in the season.

How to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

There are lots of different evergreen magnolia trees, although the most popular native plant would be the southern magnolia, or Magnolia grandiflora, which grows in zone 6 plus.

If you have got one growing in your yard, here's how to take evergreen magnolia cuttings during summer.

When to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

In terms of when to propagate evergreen magnolias, your best bet is to take semi-ripe cuttings during late summer when the new growth produced this year is still green and flexible and not fully hard or woody. So, evergreen magnolias are best thought of as plants to propagate in August.

Pick a mild week (ideally not during a heatwave), taking your cuttings during a cool, mild morning, as plants tend to be more hydrated earlier on in the day.

How to take evergreen magnolia cuttings

1. Grab some clean, sharp tools, like these Fiskars snips from Walmart. Then, identify half a dozen or so healthy green magnolia shoots.
2. Simply snip six to eight-inch stems that do not have any flowers on. You want to use stems that are somewhere in between woody and fleshy, dropping them in a bucket of water as you cut.
3. If you need to, strip the foliage from each cutting, leaving just one or two magnolia leaves at the top. If they are big leaves, you can trim them down so they are not quite so large.
4. Make the bottom cut diagonal, slicing just under a leaf node.
5. While rooting hormone is optional, it can help with the development of roots for your magnolia cuttings. Simply dip the bottom inch or so of your cuttings in water, then in rooting hormone powder, available from Amazon.
6. Then, you can plant the bottom of the cutting (roughly three or so inches) into small pots filled with well-drained potting mix. You will want to use a potting soil that is produced with cuttings and seedlings in mind, as these formulas have added drainage. Alternatively, you can simply add a scoop of grit into your potting soil.
7. Give your magnolia cuttings pot a good watering, either using a can or soaking from the bottom.
8. Then, place the pot in a cold frame or greenhouse, keeping it out of direct sunlight. Monitor the soil every few days to ascertain whether you need to water. You do not want the soil to be overly damp, but you also want to avoid it being bone dry, too.
9. Magnolia grandiflora are considered tricky plants to root from cuttings, so you will need to be patient. In some instances, it might take a few months (maybe more than six) to spot signs of roots.

FAQs

Can I root evergreen magnolia cuttings in water?

No, propagating evergreen magnolias in water is generally not recommended as a reliable method for growing more of these flowering instead. Instead, stick to semi-ripe cuttings taken in late-summer as the best approach.

While the southern magnolia is considered difficult to root from cuttings, it is certainly worth a try. Just be patient, and keep your cuttings in a cool but protected spot. With any luck, one or two might prove successful. And, if all fails, try again next year.

There are many other trees and plants to take cuttings from during late summer, including penstemons and lavender. As a gardener, my advice is always to take a few more than you need as an insurance policy. In general, you will probably lose one or two cuttings.

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One of my favorite things about sharing a love for gardening with my dad is our passing on of notes and lessons. I'll often turn to him for some advice and he likewise calls on me if something isn't quite going right in his yard. Take his red Japanese maple tree, for example. He recently called me to say it had mysteriously turned green after just a few months of adding it to his garden.

Acers, or Japanese maple trees, are loved for many reasons, one being they come in a wide range of colors and variegations. That's why we were disappointed to watch my dad's beautiful wine-red acer turn green. However, some research into caring for more colorful varieties of Japanese maples led to a logical explanation: it had been growing in too little light.

As soon as we made some lighting adjustments, we watched growth appear in that red shade we had longed for. But, it turns out light isn't the only factor behind Japanese maple tree leaves turning green. Here's what you need to know and how to fix the problem.

Why are my Japanese maple tree leaves turning green?

While it isn't necessarily possible to change the color of Japanese maples, it's true you will watch your acer loose its color and turn green in certain growing conditions.

The main cause of this problem is too little light, which was behind my dad's Japanese maple tree leaves turning green.

Just like variegated indoor plants, plants with colorful foliage need plenty of sunlight to maintain their vibrant hues. This is because sunlight aids the production of pigments like anthocyanins (responsible for red and purple tones commonly found on Japanese maples).

In my dad's garden, the Japanese maple tree was originally located in a partially shaded border, with surrounding trees also casting shade on it.

While Japanese maple trees can grow fine in shade, those with pigment benefit from around six to eight hours of sunlight each day. Without this, the leaves will turn green, which is sometimes referred to as bronzing. At the same time, a direct sun exposure can result in leaf scorch, so it's often best to protect acers from intense afternoon sun.

For this reason, we moved my dad's acer into a sunnier position, as it's a Japanese maple in a pot. It then didn't take long for new growth to appear red again.

If your Japanese maple tree is not in a container and is in a more permanent position, consider pruning surrounding tree branches that are casting shade onto it to create more sunlight exposure.

You'll need essential pruning tools to do this, like these loppers from Amazon.

Temperature can also affect foliage color

Insufficient lighting isn't the only thing that can result in Japanese maple tree leaves turning green, it can also be apart of seasonal changes.

This is because higher temperatures can speed up the tree's metabolism, using up natural sugars faster than they are being produced. These natural sugars contribute to the production of the pigments, resulting in fading hues.

For this reason, it's not uncommon for a red Japanese maple tree to turn green in the hotter days of summer. It's likely to then return to red hues as temperatures lower again, which actually makes acers one of the best trees for fall color.

So, if your Japanese maple tree is located somewhere with plenty of bright daylight, but it's still turning green, it may just be down to seasonal temperatures.

You can mulch your Japanese maple tree in summer to help manage this, which will seal in moisture and encourage later fall color.

Other signs your acer is affected by higher temperatures is your Japanese maple tree turning brown. If this is the case, carefully prune away damaged foliage and increase watering to keep your tree hydrated. Use this soil moisture meter from Amazon to ensure you don't oversaturate roots, however.

FAQs

Can fertilizer help maintain Japanese maple tree color?

Fertilizer alone can't maintain the color of your Japanese maple tree, but it can impact it. For example, using a nitrogen-rich fertilizer can encourage more green growth, reducing the red and purple tones of foliage. At the same time, using the right fertilizer (like this Japanese maple tree fertilizer from Amazon) can support the overall health of your acer, contributing to its vibrant colors.

If your Japanese maple tree has turned green alongside other problems, such as suffering from disease and having dead branches, it might just be that you need to revive your old Japanese maple tree. You should likewise protect your Japanese maple tree in winter to encourage another year of healthy growth when the temperatures warm up again.

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Problematic neighboring trees can prove to be an awkward garden dilemma. Whether they are casting shade, overhanging your property, or perhaps the thick, buttress roots are snaking under the fence and disrupting your patio, it can be tricky to resolve.

The first step is to have a friendly conversation. After all, your neighbor might not realise how the roots are impacting your side of the boundary line. And while you are generally free to act as you wish if a plant is growing within your yard, there are some legal implications to be aware of. For example, if the removal of a root destabilizes the tree and it falls, you, as the root cutter, would be liable for damage and replacement.

So, if you are asking: can I prune my neighbor's tree, take a moment to assess what you can and cannot do with our expert guide, including tips from a professional gardener in Wisconsin and an attorney from California.

Can I cut the roots of my neighbor's tree?

'From a legal perspective, you are allowed to get rid of or deal with whatever parts of your neighbor’s trees or plants end up on your side of the property line,' says Ben Michael, Attorney, Michael & Associates.

'Whether that's cutting a neighbor's hedge, pruning your neighbor's ivy or tree roots growing and expanding into your yard, you can deal with it up to the exact borderline, legally,' Ben says, 'but never over the line.

'However, you also legally cannot cause significant damage to the plant. Your root pruning cannot result in the plant dying, for example.

'So, you have to be careful when it comes to tree roots. If removing them could possibly damage the tree, you may want to avoid doing that, as this would be a tree pruning mistake that could end up costing you.'

Katie Sunderlage, a garden expert based in Wisconsin, agrees: 'When it comes to trimming back the roots of a tree on your property, but it belongs to your neighbor, it’s always best to check with your local jurisdiction. Most jurisdictions allow a land owner to trim or cut tree roots from a neighbor's tree that are encroaching on their land.

'Cutting back to the property line is usually allowed as long as the health of the tree is not in jeopardy.

'Regardless of the situation, when pruning tree branches, I feel it’s best practice to have a conversation with the neighbor before anything is done,' Katie says. 'I think maintaining a good relationship with a neighbor is important.

'And, who knows, the neighbor may help with any expenses or have other options for a solution without things turning sour.'

Steps to take when trimming roots

Some trees, like eastern redbuds, do not tend to produce shallow surface roots, while some other species, including invasive trees like Bradford pears, are known to produce problematic roots that snake along the surface of the soil.

Any smaller roots, under an inch or two in diameter, can simply be chopped back using a pruning saw.

For a large, established tree, removing these will not impact the health of the overall tree. Something like this highly rated Corona pruning saw, available via Amazon, should get the job done.

However, for anything larger, Katie recommends calling in the aborists.

'You might think, I can do this myself, but the professionals will be able to offer the best advice,' Katie says. 'They will likely have experienced this quandry on numerous occasions before.

'In fact, this has just happened to me. I live in a well-established neighborhood with big trees and privacy shrubs between our lot lines,' Katie continues.

'When we got a quote on our fence, it was brought up at that time that some of the roots from trees on the neighbor's lot may get in the way of where the posts need to go.

'Before they even started digging, we talked to the neighbor about the possibility and did mention some of the roots may need to be trimmed when putting in the posts.

'The person putting in our fence did have a document already formed regarding the need to possibly trim roots back, which we gave to the neighbor.

'We both signed the document and dated it, stating we were both aware that the tree roots may need to be trimmed and if any were large enough or in an area where the fence installation team may cause damage, they would consult with both of us prior to continuing.

'The neighbor was very grateful we talked to him before, and also mentioned he will be doing some work in the future and would be talking to us further if he thought any trees on our lot would be affected by this work.

'It was a great interaction, and I think it set us both up to be open in the future about any changes we make to our yard. So, communication is king, and I would always recommend seeking professional help and guidance before getting your axe out of the garden shed.'

For any smaller pruning jobs, you can use a mini-chainsaw, which will easily slice through branches and roots. Try something like this Saker electric mini-chainsaw, available now via Amazon.

As with most neighborly disputes, often the best course of action is communication. Having a calm chat over a cup of coffee might help to quickly resolve any confusion, and with any luck, you can agree on a joint action plan where both parties feel included and empowered.

For more information, see our feature on what to do if your neighbor's tree is blocking sunlight from your yard.

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Pruning fruit trees in August can feel counterintuitive. You might think you need to leave your apple and pear trees well alone while the fruit ripens. But, in my experience, a well-timed summer prune can make all the difference when it comes to the quality of your harvest.

A few summers back, while working in South Wales, I tended to three quince trees in a meadow at the rear of the garden, all of them with dense, leafy canopies (so thick I could barely find a safe spot for the ladder). After a few rather precarious moments balancing high up, I thinned out the crown, removing fleshy, unfruiting shoots and opening up the canopy for better air circulation. The result? Energy-efficient trees, focused on ripening their fruits, with the sun able to reach right into the heart of the tree.

I’ve found this philosophy holds true for many fruiting trees, including popular varieties like mulberries, peaches and damsons. Some careful cuts now will, in my experience, result in a better quality of fruit later this year. So, if you’re wondering which plants to prune in August, add these seven fruit trees to your list.

7 fruit trees to prune in August

Learning how to prune fruit trees in summer is less about hacking back wildly and more about a bit of careful intervention, trimming only the young fleshy growth.

Put simply, the goal is to reduce water loss through unnecessary leaves and focus more energy on those ripening fruits.

I’ve done this for years, standing atop wobbly old ladders, thinning old apples, trimming pears and taming quinces. And trust me, it pays off.

My advice? If you have one or two fruit trees to prune in August as part of your summer gardening checklist, make sure your tools are sharp and clean (you don't want to spread disease), and invest in a good quality ladder.

Try something like this highly rated Wolec telescopic V-shaped ladder, available from Amazon, which will let you get up close and personal in the canopy.

1. Apricots

Many different varieties of delicious apricot trees are popular with gardeners, and for good reason.

Most can be grown between zone 5 to zone 8, and whether you grow compact varieties in small urban yards, or larger, standard specimens that can soar over 20 feet, pruning in August is important.

In terms of getting an apricot to fruit (and producing the tastiest fruit), you need to let light penetrate the crown and provide plenty of ventilation. Now is the perfect time to thin out overcrowded growth, especially the inner canopy.

Be cautious not to prune too heavily, which would be a fruit tree pruning mistake at this time of year. Summer trimming isn’t about reshaping the tree entirely, but more about refinement.

Focus on overly leafy stems and congested areas, cutting two or three leaf nodes above a cluster of fruit, being careful not to damage fruit as you work.

For branches and apricot growth that is hard to reach, try something like this telescopic extendable tree pruner, available from Amazon.

2. Damsons

Damson trees might be less well-known than other popular trees, but these plum-like fruits are certainly worth your time.

If you have already learned how to get a damson tree to fruit, you will probably soon be overloaded with small purple fruits. In fact, the branches can get so heavy under the weight of the crop, they can begin to droop.

While damsons naturally shed some of their fruit in early summer, sometimes referred to as the 'June drop', it’s worth lending a helping hand.

As with other trees, I would advise thinning fruits so that there’s one damson every two to three inches on a branch. It feels brutal at the time, but those left behind will ripen and swell up all the better.

If you fancy investing in some new Japanese gardening tools for your summer jobs in the yard, try these Okatsune pruners, available from Walmart, which will surely elevate your gardening game this August.

3. Apples

Russets are my favorite apple variety to grow – a British heritage apple, with a bit of a rough texture, but the most delicious flavor.

Whatever variety you grow, whether Russet, Jonagold, Gala or Fuji, August pruning is key. If you grow apples in borders or grow apples in pots, simply snip away any non-fruiting shoots that are drawing too much energy.

Focus on the top growth, cutting down to a few leaf nodes. Reducing shoots and dense clumps of leaves will allow light to access the center of the tree.

For thicker apple branches, use something like these heavy-duty loppers from Fiskars, available online now at Amazon, which will easily cut through chunky stems that are a little too big for your pruners.

When pruning apples, you might be tempted to pluck one or two around this time, but learn from me: they’re not ready. Bitter and far from enjoyable. But a good prune can help them get there, and your fruits should be ready come fall.

4. Pears

Pears are one of the easiest fruit trees to grow, in my experience. I have grown two of the most common (and popular) varieties previously: Conference and Comice, both of which are ideal for smaller yards, as you can train them against a wall (as an espalier).

If you want to add a sweet, tasty heritage variety to your plot this year, try this live Bosc Pear Tree (Pyrus 'Bosc'), with live plants available from Nature Hills.

I have also trained pear trees as step-overs, growing them along a low wire at the edge of a kitchen garden in South Wales. While training like this takes a little patience, once established and happy, these low-growing trees can be good croppers.

As with apples, pears are masters of hiding their fruit beneath leafy canopies. In August, I make a point of pruning pears by thinning the stems and reducing vigorous, unproductive shoots. You want dappled light reaching every fruit, even those hidden in the center under old branches.

And, remember, keeping your tools sharp is so important when pruning trees, and using a sharpening stone will really help to make the job ten times easier.

Try something like this Okatsune sharpening stone, available via Amazon, which will help to keep your pruners in effective working order.

5. Quince

Quince trees, with their velvety, furry fruits, are surprisingly easy to grow, so long as you give them a little August attention.

Their canopies can become so dense (and heavy) with fruit and foliage, meaning that sunlight struggles to filter through, and that’s a problem if you’re after fruits that are good enough for jellies, chutneys, or simply as a table centerpiece in fall.

So, learning how to prune quince trees is important. A light thinning of non-fruiting shoots can dramatically improve the ripening process, cutting the new growth down to two or three leaf nodes.

For top shoots that grow upwards atop the crown, use something like this highly rated pole saw from Fiskars, available now via Home Depot. After all, you don't want to finish pruning with a handful of long shoots remaining right at the top of the tree.

I generally find that quince trees don't require too much fruit sacrificing, but if you have a cluster of three or four fruits together, it is probably worth tossing one or two on the compost heap, or leaving them as a snack for wildlife.

6. Mulberry

Mulberry trees are, quite simply, some of the best fruit trees with a delicious crop. If you already have one in your yard, I won't have to convince you of their value.

I once cared for a large mulberry with drooping, weeping branches that cascaded with fruits every summer. Picking was an ongoing summer task, done as needed, with half of them going into the freezer, but more often than not, we ate them straight off the branch.

August mulberry pruning is less about shaping and more about practicality: removing dense growth that hides fruit, and helping the harvest to be the best yet.

You don’t want to hack away mindlessly, but do take out vigorous new shoots that are shading the crop. But remember, keep any hard pruning to when the tree is dormant in winter.

7. Peach

In terms of when to prune a peach tree, a slightly different approach is required. The August pruning is usually done after (not before) the harvest is finished.

This is because after the fruits are picked, you might notice lots of leafy peach shoots springing upwards.

So, when learning how to prune a peach tree, simply complete a little trimming and thinning to help the tree redirect its energy towards strengthening branches and setting up for next year’s crop (remember that peaches form on new growth, so don't worry about impacting next year's fruits).

Focus on removing vertical shoots, as well as any congested growth in the center. Open, airy crowns mean less risk of mildew and pests.

Leave any hard pruning or rejuvenation pruning of non-stone fruit trees to fall and winter, ideally when your fruit trees are dormant and not in leaf, cutting back sometimes between November and February.

For stone fruits, including cherry trees and plum trees, all pruning (including rejuvenation) should be done during summer to reduce the risk of diseases such as silver leaf and bacterial canker, which can prove fatal.

For more information, see our guide on when to prune fruit trees.

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Whether you grow a deep crimson 'Bloodgood' specimen or perhaps you have an acid-green 'Emerald Lace' in the yard, there's nothing quite like the vivid canopies of healthy Japanese maple trees.

As a professional gardener, I have grown them in a variety of settings, including in pots on a shady courtyard in Wales, as well as narrow, part-shade gardens in London, where the afternoon sun was filtered just enough to keep them happy. And, if there is one thing I have learned along the way, it is that when these trees are unhappy, for whatever reason, once healthy leaves begin to turn brown, otherwise known as leaf scorch.

Once a leaf has turned brown, I’m afraid there’s no saving it for the season. Crispy is crispy, for want of a better phrase. It won’t revert to green, no matter how tenderly you water. But that doesn’t mean all is lost. Your tree is telling you something, so it is important to listen and tweak the growing conditions. Here are five common reasons for leaf scorch, with tips on how to save your Japanese maple trees this summer.

Why are my Japanese maple leaves turning brown?

Japanese maples can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8, ideally in a part-shade position with moist but never waterlogged soil.

They are usually tough and resilient, but brown foliage is a sign that your tree is not happy. Here are five common causes and tips to help revive Japanese maples that I have learned during my time as a professional gardener.

1. Too much sun

In my experience, too much sun is usually the issue if a Japanese maple is looking a little dry and crispy.

These are woodland plants, and regardless of the varieties of Japanese maples in your yard, they all do best in part-sun-part-shade.

So, if you are growing Japanese maples in pots, this is easy to rectify. Simply move your pot to a location with morning sun (far kinder to the tree) and afternoon shade (far more intense).

Try these rustic wooden plant caddies, available via Walmart, which can help to roll plants from A to B without doing yourself any harm.

When growing in the ground, this is harder to prevent, save for tearing up your yard and lifting the tree, which could kill it. The tree shouldn't die, but it might just look a little unhappy for the remainder of the season. Just be sure to keep deep watering during those days of high heat and bright sunshine.

Alternatively, for smaller specimens, you can use a plant shade protection sheet, available from Amazon. While it might seem a little extreme, if you are very concerned, simply use a sheet like this for the afternoon hours, removing it after the heat of the day has finished.

2. Not enough water

Another common cause of leaf scorch is usually underwatering. If your tree is in a pot, you’ll need to water much more often, even daily in peak summer.

I am always amazed by how quickly pots can dry out, and, without water, your tree can seemingly turn dry and crispy in a matter of weeks (even days).

Trees in the ground will also struggle if there’s a dry spell, particularly as their roots are usually quite shallow. Be sure to properly soak the ground, rather than a light watering.

If your faucet is far away, save yourself several trips with the watering can by using an extendable garden hose. Try this highly rated 50-foot hose, available via Amazon.

3. Heat stress

Even with adequate water and protection from afternoon sun, extreme heat can overwhelm your Japanese maple. And, during hot summers, the likes of which we are experiencing this year, heat stress will cause browning foliage.

Sadly, this isn’t something you can always fix, but one tip I was taught is to ensure you mulch Japanese maples in summer, which will keep the roots cool and lock in moisture.

In terms of what to use when mulching, I use bark chips or homemade well-rotted leaf mold, but any organic mulch (available from Amazon) will do the job.

4. Fertilizer burn

I find that Japanese maples don’t like rich, heavy feeds, especially in summer. If you’ve recently applied a fast-acting or chemical fertilizer and noticed leaf browning shortly after, that could be causing some stress and brown foliage.

Generally, the best time to fertilize Japanese maples is early spring, and I would warn against over-feeding, which is a common fertilizing mistake. I would avoid feeding anytime after June during the scorching summer months.

5. Wind exposure

My grandfather has not been able to grow Japanese maple trees for one reason: coastal wind, which is a problem along the coast in Cornwall. Put simply, they do not like wind, and they are also sensitive to salt.

The good news? For maples in pots, you can simply move containers to a sheltered nook or corner for a short time.

However, for maples growing in the ground, this is slightly trickier. One solution might be a living green windbreak, something like a solid yew hedge or containerized bamboo screen, which can shield more vulnerable parts of the yard from strong winds.

However, if this seems like a lot of fuss, it might just be the case that in open, windy areas, this is not the species to grow.

FAQs

What varieties of Japanese maple can tolerate sun?

If you are keen to grow Japanese maples but lack shade, one tip would be to grow them under the canopy of another, larger tree that is more tolerant of sunshine. Or, alternatively, pick one of the sun-tolerant Japanese maple varieties, such as 'Bloodgood', which has remarkable crimson foliage. Live 'Bloodgood' maple trees are available from Amazon.

Whatever the cause for your Japanese maples turning brown, this will likely be a temporary concern. While it might look a little unsightly now, your tree should bounce back and return next spring with lush new foliage. My top tip: keep an eye on watering for the final few months of the growing season.

For more inspiration, see our guide on changing the color of Japanese maples.

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If you've spent years nurturing a peach tree only to never get any fruit, it might just be that you need to adjust the growing environment you're providing. There needs to be some specific conditions in place to get a peach tree to fruit; otherwise, a harvest is unlikely.

Not only do you need to know how to grow and care for peach trees to be successful, but you also need to be familiar with the signs your peach tree is struggling to focus on fruit production. Yellowing leaves alongside a lack of fruit could indicate a bigger issue, like a nutrient deficiency, for example. Or, it could be a small lighting adjustment needed to get a peach tree to fruit.

It's also important to know these trees grow best across US hardiness zone 5 to zone 9, so you may struggle to achieve fruit elsewhere. If, however, you are growing a peach tree in these zones and aren't getting a harvest, keep reading. Here, experts share a few tricks to try to get a peach tree to fruit.

3 ways to get a peach tree to fruit

If you have just planted a young peach tree (from Nature Hills) this year and haven't got any fruit, don't panic. Peach trees will only start setting fruit between two to four years old. If you have an older peach tree with a lack of fruit, try making one of these three adjustments:

1. Your peach tree needs more cold exposure

Just like getting a plum tree to fruit, peach trees need something called 'chill hours,' i.e., a period of exposure to colder temperatures ahead of the fruiting season.

'Peaches have evolved to know when spring arrives. They have hormones in their bodies in the fall when their leaves drop. Then, as they are exposed to cold weather over a certain amount of time, referred to as 'chill hours,' those hormones degrade,' explains garden expert Colleen Dieter from Red Wheelbarrow.

'When those hormones are completely degraded, the peach trees bloom,' she adds.

If your peach tree hasn't experienced a sufficient amount of chill hours, it's less likely to bloom in spring, therefore hindering fruit production later in the growing season.

'Certain varieties of peaches are adapted to certain areas with a certain number of chill hours. For example, here in Austin, TX, we are very far south and we have very mild winters. For Austin, we need peach varieties that require around 500 chill hours, like 'La Feliciana' or 'June Gold',' says Colleen.

'For areas further north, they may have longer, colder winters and the peaches need more chill hours, so people gardening in those regions need different varieties,' she adds.

So, it may just be that you are attempting to grow a peach tree variety that doesn't suit the temperature patterns of your local region.

'If a peach tree isn't suited for your climate, it might bloom too late, or too early. If it blooms too early, a late frost can kill all of the flowers, which means it won't yield fruit that year,' says food growing expert Veronica Tegen.

Find a peach tree for your US hardiness zone at Fast Growing Trees, and use this outdoor thermometer from Amazon to monitor temperatures for your tree.

2. Your peach tree needs more direct sun

It's no surprise that peach trees need plenty of sun to fruit, as the majority of fruit trees do. So, if your peach tree isn't fruiting, it may just be that it needs more exposure to direct sun.

'In summer, peach trees are simultaneously ripening fruit and producing flower buds for next year's crop, so plenty of light is needed,' says Veronica.

'Peach trees need at least 20% full sun in the summer in order to produce flower buds for next year's crop. The top of the tree can shade the interior or lower branches, preventing flower buds from developing there, and only developing at the very top of the tree,' she adds.

To resolve this issue, prune tree branches blocking light to the lower branches. You should likewise prune neighboring trees casting shade.

Use essential pruning tools to do this, like these loppers from Amazon, to make clean cuts and prevent damage to your tree.

Of course, there are some peach tree varieties that can be grown in pots. In this case, consider moving your container to a sunnier spot in your yard.

3. Your peach tree needs a more steady water supply

This is also one of the biggest mistakes when it comes to getting a pear tree to fruit, getting a fig tree to fruit, and getting a mulberry tree to fruit. The right moisture levels are particularly important when your peach tree is young.

'Young peach trees need a steady supply of water to maintain health and vigor. After they are four or five years old, they are much hardier as their root system is larger and extends deeper into the ground,' says Veronica.

Having said that, allowing your peach tree to go through a prolonged period of drought can cause fruit to drop,' Veronica notes. The best thing to do is to water your peach tree regularly during the growing season in spring and summer.

You can use a soil moisture meter (from Amazon) to establish whether your peach tree needs some hydration.

FAQs

Will pruning help my peach tree fruit?

Yes, pruning can help your peach tree to fruit, so long as you avoid fruit tree pruning mistakes.

'Peach trees can grow really fast, given the right conditions. If this happens, you might want to prune your peach tree's new growth back in June or July,' says Veronica.

'This allows more light to reach lower branches so they can set fruit buds for next year. It also keeps fruit lower on the tree, which is easier to harvest,' she explains.

After making these adjustments, you're likely to watch your peach tree produce delicious fruit for you to enjoy.

Harvest peaches in summer when the fruit has turned yellow and comes away from the branches with a simple twist.

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I have grown Japanese maple trees in every sort of setting, from shady woodland beds in South Wales to sunny patios in Italy. And, one question that I always seem to get asked is: how do I change the color of Japanese maples?

We all want those deep crimsons, honey golds and flaming oranges that elevate a space. But here’s the inconvenient truth: you can’t really change a Japanese maple’s color. Unlike hydrangeas, their leaf shade is written into their genetic code. Feed them, mulch them, water them well, all of that will help with health, vigor, and perhaps the intensity of their foliage, but a red-leaved variety will stay red, and a green one won’t suddenly turn scarlet.

But, if this isn’t the answer you hoped for, don’t fret, as I have plenty of recommendations for a fiery cultivar to add to your plot this year. Here’s everything I know about encouraging healthy, vivid foliage, and the best Japanese maple trees worth adding to your garden. Because why not treat yourself to a maple that’s guaranteed to put on a show?

Can you change the color of Japanese maples?

Whether you grow Japanese maples in pots or borders, you may be wondering how you can change or enhance their color.

And, while you cannot alter the genetic make-up of these woodland plants, you can ensure that you are hitting some key growing requirements to ensure that the foliage is as zingy and vibrant as possible this year.

Here's everything I know about the color of Japanese maples after several years working as a professional gardener.

How to promote healthy trees and vibrant foliage?

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been asked if you can change the color of Japanese maples. And the truth is... not really.

You can’t magic these low-maintenance trees from green to flaming red by any alchemy or by fertilizing Japanese maples. Leaf color is in the tree’s DNA. But you can help your tree put on its best show with the right growing conditions.

It all comes down to senescence, which might sound a little too technical, but don't fret. It is best understood as the natural decaying and winding down before dormancy.

As August folds into September, chlorophyll (the green stuff found in the leaves that most of us learned about in school) starts to break down. This process then allows other colors to take center stage as the weather dips.

To help? Water consistently during the warmer months, and also to learn how to mulch Japanese maples in summer.

Try something like this organic Back to the Roots mulch available from Amazon.

Mulching is important and will help your woodland tree to retain moisture and prevent the leaves from wilting or turning crispy (there is no saving brown leaves once they turn crispy).

If you are growing a maple is in a pot, I would suggest moving it to a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade. Red, purple, and dark-leaved varieties, I have found, need a good dose of sun to hold their color, whereas paler or the striking variegated types prefer dappled shade.

And remember, some things are beyond your control, namely, the weather. In cooler zones, like zone 5, fall colors might be bolder following a chilly few weeks in early fall, whereas in warmer regions, there may be no change, or a less noticeable change. Just enjoy your maple, whatever it decides to do.

Best Japanese maples for fiery foliage

So, while you can't change their color, most varieties of Japanese maples should put on a pretty good spring, summer and fall show.

I have grown many different types, but I have always had a soft spot for 'Sango-Kaku', with its golden yellow leaves that look impressive when backlit by the low sun in fall.

For crimson foliage, I love 'Tamukeyama', but the classic Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, with live plants available from Walmart, is always a good choice, with deep burgundy leaves that are hard to beat. In my experience, it holds its color well through summer, especially if given light afternoon shade.

Acer palmatum ‘Osakazuki’, live plants available from Amazon, is another striking option. It has modest green leaves through spring and summer, but come fall, it is a blaze of scarlet red that rivals any tree in the garden. It’s hardy, reliable, and brilliant if you are seeking small trees that thrive on neglect.

FAQs

Why does my Japanese maple have brown leaves in summer?

None of us wants to see brown, crispy leaves on our maples during the growing season. While this might be expected in October or November, during the summer this can be caused by leaf scorch (from too much sun or not enough water).

I have also known maples to turn dry and crispy from wind damage, particularly near the coast, as they do not respond well to salt air.

Ensure that your maple is in a part-sun spot, protected from harsh afternoon sun, kept out of the wind, and be sure to keep the base well watered during warm spells.

If you are worried about the quality of your soil, mulching will help, but so too can feeding your trees once or twice during spring and summer, using something like this Happy Frog Japanese maple feed from Amazon. Just be sure to follow the instructions as per the packaging.

For more information, see our guide on how to revive old Japanese maples, with tips on pruning and feeding.

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I love finding ways to add personal touches to my garden. It's a lovely way to really make an outdoor space your own, and what better way to do so by growing plants specific to your person? That's exactly why I'm obsessing over birth month trees.

Just like birth month flowers offering personalized blooms and birth month herbs offering tasty and fragrant plants for each person, birth month trees provide the opportunity to add luscious foliage and tall structure to your yard that have some meaning behind them.

The history behind it is also fascinating. It all stems from the Celtic Tree Calendar, an ancient astronomical framework. Intrigued to find out more? Look no further. I've compiled information on all 13 birth month trees (yes, 13, it doesn't exactly line up with the 12 months we know) and what they represent, plus tips on how to grow them.

What are birth month trees?

The Celtic Tree Calendar became popular in 1948, in the publication of The White Goddess (available on Amazon) by British poet and mythologist, Robert Graves.

Robert reinterpreted the Ogham alphabet, an ancient Irish writing system which linked each character with a tree or plant. From there, he theorized that the Celts used a lunar tree calendar.

Now, birth month trees have become a beautiful way to celebrate individuals, even making a charming addition to memory gardens for loved ones.

So, if you're keen to find out what your birth month tree is, take a look below – just remember to look for a variety that can grow in your US hardiness zone before rushing to add yours to your yard.

December 24 – January 20: Birch

At the top of the Celtic Tree Calendar is birch, and these really are wonderful trees to have in your yard. In Celtic tradition, they represent renewal and rebirth, which is why their designated to the start of the year.

There are plenty of birch trees to choose from, the majority of them being trees with white bark that provide a stark contrast to the other greenery in your yard.

Not only this, but birch trees actually provide lots of fall color, with foliage turning bright yellow and orange tones in the second half of the year.

Just make sure to maintain consistent moisture by regularly watering and mulching your birch tree.

Find a birch tree for your yard at Fast Growing Trees.

January 21 – February 17: Rowan

For those born mid-January to mid-February, rowan trees are your birth month tree. They represent protection and intuition, a great tree to uplift the darker days in a winter garden.

Growing rowan trees is fairly straightforward, too, so long as you position it in a sunny spot in well-draining soil.

It's also important to prune rowan trees during late winter to early spring, removing any damaged branches and foliage ahead of the growing season. Use loppers (like these from Amazon) to make clean cuts when doing so.

February 18 – March 17: Ash

In the Celtic Tree Calendar, Ash trees are thought to be a source of poetic vision and creativity. It's not hard to see why, with its beautiful range of green, red, and yellow leaves – like this Autumn Purple Ash Tree from Fast Growing Trees.

Something to note, however, is Ash trees are on the list of trees to avoid planting to close to you house. This is because they have such extensive root systems that can cause damage to pipes and infrastructure.

Nevertheless, the sheer size of these trees (up to 80 feet) certainly make them ones to wow in your yard.

They do best in well-draining, fertile soil types, often found in British woodlands, making them a good choice if you're looking to add woodland plants to your yard.

March 18 – April 14: Alder

Alder trees are thought to symbolize courage and determination, standing tall with quite dense foliage. For those born in March–April, this is a great tree to add to your yard.

The good news is they're also some of the best trees for clay soil, tolerating wetter conditions and poorer soil types.

They provide year-round interest, too, with yellow catkins on display from late winter into spring which turn into cones in fall.

If you have an alkaline soil in your yard, consider making your soil more acidic for these trees. You can test your soil's pH with this soil test kit from Amazon and then use these pH adjusters from Amazon to amend as needed.

April 15 – May 12: Willow

Willow is the birth month tree for mid-April to mid-May, representing connection to the water and wisdom. It's the perfect tree for those with a large garden pond and those wanting to create a whimsical feel in a fairy garden.

There are lots of types of willow to choose from, from the fast-growing tree for privacy of weeping willow to smaller varieties for container gardens.

These flamingo willow tree cuttings from Amazon can start you off with a willow tree for pots, for example.

Just make sure to plant in a sunny location, as willows thrive best in a direct sun position. A shady spot is likely to sunt growth.

May 13 – June 9: Hawthorn

In the midst of spring, hawthorn is the birth month tree to take center stage. In the Celtic Tree Calendar, hawthorns represent love and protection. They even form an important role in Beltane, a Gaelic festival to celebrate the start of summer.

In May, Hawthorn is full of white, and sometimes pink, blossoms.

'I'm pleased to know this is my birth month tree as I adore the blossom in spring,' says Homes & Gardens' Head of Gardens, Rachel Bull. 'I love using them in my floral designs for this reason,' she adds.

They're also good choices for trees for small gardens. For example, this Snow White Indian Hawthorn Shrub from Fast-growing Trees reaches a mature height of five feet.

When growing these trees, it's important to know when to prune a hawthorn. Late winter is best while the tree is in dormancy, reducing stress and keeping the tree healthy. You can use these Fiskars loppers from Amazon to do so.

June 10 – July 7: Oak

This is one of the easiest British trees to identify by leaf, thanks to is iconic lobed shape. In the birth month tree tradition, it's one of the most powerful trees, linked to longevity and stability.

They grow in a wide range of soil types, tolerate full sun to partial shade, and require consistent moisture.

I've actually grown an oak tree from an acorn, a fun and easy project to do. You can even buy acorn oak tree growing kits from Amazon to get you started – or to gift to the early summer baby in your life.

Remember to prune your oak tree during their dormant period to keep it healthy and shapely.

July 8 – August 4: Holly

Holly happens to be my own birth month tree, which I am delighted to know as I moved into a home with a holly bush earlier this year – perhaps it was just meant to be. In Celtic tradition, holly symbolizes nobility and resilience.

Although you may associate holly with being one of the best shrubs with winter berries, they also produce dainty white flowers in spring. Plus, their evergreen foliage can be enjoyed throughout the year.

I personally have a variegated holly, which has gorgeous yellow and green leaves. It's easy to grow holly and care for it, too. I just prune my holly bush in spring to shape it and encourage new growth to establish ahead of the colder seasons.

Find a holly bush for your yard at Nature Hills.

August 5 – September 1: Hazel

Hazel trees are loved for their edible hazelnuts (pictured above) which are ready to harvest between September and October. They also have versatile wood which you can use to build hazel plant supports.

For those born in August to the start of September, it's a birth month tree representing knowledge.

Hazels tend to be smaller trees, ideal for small garden ideas. In fact, you can even grow some varieties in pots. Or, opt for a showstopper variety, like this American Hazelnut Filbert Tree from Fast Growing Trees.

It's key to prune your hazel tree in its early years to establish a strong structure for future growth.

September 2 – September 29: Vine

Although this isn't technically a tree, grape vine is thought to be symbolic of joy and celebration in the Celtic Tree Calendar, likely linked to the wine you can make from grapes, of course.

It's one of the best fruiting plants, although growing grapes does require some specific conditions to be successful. This includes planting in fall, positioning it somewhere with plenty of direct sun, and ensuring its soil doesn't become waterlogged.

To help with fruit production, it's vital to get grape vine pruning right. This involves pruning a bit differently each year (which you can find information about in our linked guide) and using the right essential pruning tools. These pruning shears from Amazon are a good fit.

September 30 – October 27: Ivy

Another one that isn't a tree in the traditional sense, but common ivy is the birth month tree for the majority of October babies. It's symbolic of perseverance and survival in the Celtic tradition.

Of course the good news about ivy is you can grow it both indoors and grow ivy as a houseplant, making it a good gift for loved ones with a birthday at this time. You can find an ivy houseplant at The Sill.

I actually have an ivy houseplant and it is one of the easiest to look after. When caring for ivy, you can get away with neglecting it a little and placing it in a lower light spot. This reflects their native habitat in woodlands, among other areas.

I've found that the best way to promote more growth is to prune your ivy. Just like hair, the more you cut it, the more it will grow. That's why I have these pruning snips from Amazon in my plant care kit.

October 28 – November 24: Reed

Again, this isn't quite a tree but it does earn its spot on the Celtic Tree Calendar as the birth month tree representing honest expression, with musical instrument links to reed.

Reed is one of the best ornamental grasses for movement in the wind. It's commonly grown as a pond plant, due its love for wetter conditions.

It also offers stunning fall color, with its green foliage turning bronze in the latter half of the year.

Find a feathered reed grass for your yard at Nature Hills.

November 25 – December 23: Elder

The final birth month tree on the Celtic Tree Calendar is elder, a tree loved for its versatility in the yard. You can grow elder trees of all different colors and sizes, and berries.

As a birth month tree, elder represents completion and reflection as it rounds up the year. It's also a medicinal plant in many ways, including having antiviral properties.

Elders are actually some of the most low-maintenance trees, known to grow and thrive with just minimal attention.

It is important, however, to prune an elderberry shrub in spring if you want to encourage a large production of those gorgeous purple-black berries later in the year.

Find an elder bush at Fast Growing Trees.

FAQs

Are birth month trees significant for their month?

Many birth month trees are associated with a specific time of year because there is something significant happening at that time. For example, hawthorn is a May birth month tree and this is the time of year it's in blossom. Likewise, hazel is the birth month tree for August, when hazelnuts are developing to be harvested in fall.

If you love the idea of selecting plants personal to your person, then you might also want to read our guide to zodiac houseplants for your indoor garden.

Japanese maples are, to me, some of the finest (and easiest) trees to grow in backyards. But while they are low-maintenance, during long, hot summers, they can struggle. For this reason, mulching Japanese maples is a quick but crucial task to complete before the mercury begins to spike.

I’ve nurtured Japanese maples in many gardens where I have worked as a professional gardener, and whether grown in pots or sprawling borders, mulching during late spring and early summer can pay dividends. Believe me, a chunky, two-to-four-inch layer applied in June can really make the difference between lush, green leaves or a brown, crispy canopy.

So, if you want your Japanese maple trees to look their best this year, even when the searing sun is at its most cruel in July and August, mulching is essential. Here, I share everything I know after a decade working in public and private gardens.

Caring for Japanese maple trees in summer

Let's face it, as a season, summer can be hard work for plants. Reports of scorching heat and extended drought are not what we gardeners like to see when we check the weather.

Woodland plants in particular, including all varieties of Japanese maples, can struggle during June, July, August and September, the months when shade is a luxury and moisture hard to come by.

For this reason, I highly recommend a small spot of mulching, which can really help these statement shrubs and trees to survive challenging seasonal shifts in every US hardiness zone.

Mulching Japanese maples

Mulching Japanese maples need not be complicated, but, in my experience, adding this simple task to your summer gardening checklist will really help your plants make it through tricky summer weather.

To get started, take some time to do a spot of weeding. This applies whether you are growing Japanese maples in pots or borders.

There is no need to poke or hack at the root ball... just a quick speed-weed will do, gently teasing any dandelions or clover clumps that might be growing around the base.

Then, deep watering will go a long way to ensuring success. Use a hose on a slow setting for larger trees, or a full watering can or two for pot-grown specimens.

Watering at this stage is important, and ensuring the ground is moist before you mulch will help to seal moisture in the soil once your thick layer is applied.

Following this, you can get mulching. There are not really any rules to follow here, really, just shovel your mulch from the wheelbarrow, rake it out evenly to form a two-to-four-inch layer, and keep a small gap from the base of the trunk.

In terms of what to use, there are many different types of mulch to choose from, and any leaf mold or homemade compost will get the job done.

If you are in the market to buy mulch, I would also suggest something like this organic wood mulch from Back to the Roots, sold via Amazon.

Once you have finished mulching, it is a good idea to fertilize Japanese maples, too.

Use something like this organic tree feed from Espoma, available at Amazon, but be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging, and stop feeding before the end of summer.

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Clove trees, or Syzygium aromaticum, are native to hot, wet and sticky rainforest-like environments. While they tend to grow best in these terrains (cast your mind to tropical islands in Indonesia), with a bit of TLC, anyone can grow this fragrant spice tree at home in patio containers. And, if you are anything like me, you will love the aroma of this spice, whether for decoration at Christmas or used as a flavor in cooking.

Of course, some extra care is required when learning how to grow clove trees in pots, largely because this plant of the tropics does require summer humidity and winter protection. However, if you can get the growing conditions just right, this powerhouse plant more than earns its spot on your patio. Not only does it look good, but it will also serve as a natural way to deter mosquitoes, which detest an essential oil that the plant produces.

So, if you are looking to pest-proof your patio this year, but want to keep chemicals out of the yard, consider growing the clove tree, considered one of the best mosquito-repellent plants. Here, I share how to get started with this tropical species and keep blood-sucking pests at bay, without a citronella candle in sight.

Why potted clove trees are a really good idea

Seeking out natural pest control methods is always preferable to using chemicals to combat midges, mosquitoes and flies.

Sure, insects might be annoying, and no one wants to be covered in inflamed, itchy bites (the gardener's curse), but these so-called pests are actually a sign of a healthy ecosystem, and often attract hungry birds.

In fast, mosquito-dense areas will prove to be a draw during the hummingbird migration. The only catch? You would need many hundreds of birds in your yard to make a dent in the mosquito population.

That's why learning how to grow clove trees in pots is a smart idea to deter these biting insects from seating areas during summer, while not harming biodiversity or using harsh sprays.

It is not a foolproof solution, but growing this spice tree might just help to keep bites to a minimum while also making your patio smell heavenly.

How to grow clove trees in pots

Clove trees might be best known as a spice cupboard essential, but they’re also surprisingly good patio plants.

Not only do these evergreen trees have attractive, elongated, waxy leaves, but they are also remarkably fragrant. And, it is this characteristic, a result of the high concentration of eugenol oil in the plant, that helps to repel mosquitoes.

While these are tropical plants, doing best in US hardiness zone 9 and zone 10, they can be coaxed to grow in containers in cooler, northern zones too, especially if you have a sheltered patio for the summertime, and a fall and winter protection plan in place.

Once you have sourced a clove tree (seek out a specialized local nursery that deals in tropical species), you are ready to get started.

Plant your statement tree in a medium to large-sized container, something around 15 to 18 inches deep and wide should do the job.

I like the look of this large, lightweight terracotta-effect planter, made by Crescent Garden and sold via Wayfair.

Fill your pot with a good quality, moisture-retentive potting mix, something like this organic potting soil by Whitney Farms, available via Walmart, mixing in some perlite or horticultural grit to improve drainage.

Be sure to firm your tree down, keeping the level of the plastic container the same in your new patio pot, so the tree is not sitting too low or too high.

Position it in a sunny, sheltered spot where it will enjoy plenty of sunshine, although in southern locations, some afternoon shade is no bad thing.

Ongoing care for clove trees in pots

After planting your clove tree, complete a spot of deep watering. Following this, sticking to a regular watering schedule is a good idea; soaking your pots once every week during cool spring weather, or every day when the temperature is high in summer.

Importantly, clove trees thrive in humid environments, so grouping pots together can help to increase humidity for patio plants.

You can also water the floor at the base of your pots, as well as mist the plant very early in the morning or late at night, using something like this plant mister spray bottle from Amazon.

Mulching is also a good idea, both in borders and in pots, which can help to reduce watering and improve the fertility of the soil. This cow manure sold via Amazon will get the job done, or any other homemade compost is a good option.

While the clove tree can grow up to 15 to 30 feet tall and wide, its growth will be much reduced in pots.

Pruning, therefore, won't be necessary for several years, as clove trees are very slow-growing. However, if you need to, you can simply snip any wayward stems during early spring.

When the temperature begins to drop towards the end of summer, it is time to protect your clove tree.

While this will vary from zone to zone, in general, you will want to move your pot indoors or to a greenhouse anytime from October, ensuring that it does not experience any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

There, the clove tree will remain until springtime, when all risk of frost has passed.

FAQs

Can I grow a clove tree indoors year-round?

Yes, you can try growing clove trees as indoor plants. Be sure to place containers in a bright location with plenty of indirect sunlight. You will also want a relatively consistent temperature, ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. And, to increase humidity, opt for a pebble tray for plants, while also grouping house plants together.

You will want to repot your clove tree every three years, carefully lifting it out of its container in spring and moving it to a slightly bigger pot with new soil.

While this can be tricky (and might require a second pair of hands for larger specimens), it will undoubtedly help to keep plants in good health.

For more pest-control inspiration, see our guide on using marigolds in a vegetable garden, which can help to lure aphids and hungry insects away from your prized blooms.

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Quinces are not the most popular fruit trees, nor do you commonly see the unusual, large fruits sold in stores. However, they do make great low-maintenance fruit trees that can survive fairly cold temperatures.

Among the many positives for quinces are that you can get compact forms for smaller spaces, they are self-fertile, and don’t suffer from many pest or disease issues. However, the reduced popularity may come from the fact that the sizable, fragrant fruit cannot be consumed fresh from the tree. A harvested quince needs to be stored and then cooked to bring out its flavor, but it is ideal for jellies, jams, pies, and other desserts.

A quince can, however, be one of the easiest fruit trees to grow at home. With its scented, pale-pink flowers and downy foliage, it also makes a great ornamental addition to any garden. So let’s take a close look at how to grow quince trees and reveal why you should consider adding one of these historic fruit trees to your yard.

Where to grow quince trees – a guide to planting quince

A quince is not a fast-growing fruit tree, and there are different varieties available with fruits that come in varying shapes, sizes, and flavors.

All quince trees you see for sale are grafted onto different rootstocks to limit their size, which includes dwarfing stocks, making them suitable for smaller spaces, up to varieties that will reach 13-20 feet at maturity.

Quince trees are cold-hardy to -15°F and suitable for US hardiness zones 5-9. Even though they can survive colder temperatures, trees prefer warm and protected environments to produce the best crop.

Sheryl Normandeau, experienced gardener and co-author of 'The Prairie Gardeners’ Go-To for Fruit', recommends: 'Situate quince trees in full sun for prolific fruit production.'

An ideal spot to grow a quince tree would receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight and be protected from winds. And more sun means sweeter fruits when you grow quinces.

Also, as the early quince tree flowers are susceptible to damage from frosts, it is beneficial to give the tree a warm and sheltered spot, especially in colder climates. In such a climate, you could grow quince against a south-facing wall where it can enjoy warmer temperatures.

While they do not like temperatures too cold for long, and need warmth for the best fruiting, quince trees are, however, unsuitable for hotter locations. Sheryl Normandeau says: 'They will not reliably produce fruit in warm climates as they require a chilling period of 100 to 300 hours.'

Quince trees like fertile and moisture-retentive soil. Adding organic matter, such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold, is a recommended way to improve the soil's structure and the moisture-holding capacity to the benefit of the quince trees.

The ideal time to plant fruit trees is in late winter or early spring, once the ground is workable. Avoid planting them in hot and dry weather, as the tree will be stressed and you'll need to do lots of watering to ensure it establishes a strong root network.

How to grow quince trees – expert care tips

Watering

Quince trees need regular watering for the first year to get them established, but even after that, they have quite specific watering requirements, especially if you want to get a quince tree to fruit.

As Sheryl Normandeau outlines: 'Quince trees require well-drained but consistently moist soil.' They want at least an inch of water a week and will need regular deep watering every few weeks, especially during dry periods in spring and summer.

The soil should be consistently moist, and a lack of water causes the trees to drop their fruits. Mulching around quince trees is advisable to retain more moisture in the soil.

Feeding

Quince trees want annual feeding towards the start of the growing season. For when to fertilize fruit trees, Sheryl Normandeau recommends: 'You can side dress your quince trees with compost early in the spring, or offer a balanced fertilizer such as 20-20-20. Follow the package recommendations for the rate of application.'

It would be fertilizing mistake to use high-nitrogen feeds or over-fertilize quince trees, as lots of lush growth makes them more susceptible to fire blight.

Pruning

Quince trees don't need lots of regular pruning, but a light touch every few years helps keep them productive and healthy. Prune the fruit tree during dormancy, ideally in late winter or early spring.

To prune quince trees once established, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with any weak, congested, or crossing branches. This can be enough to improve the penetration of air and light into the canopy to keep the tree healthy and help to ripen fruits.

Harvesting

The unique quince fruits are harvested in the fall, usually between September and November, depending on the region. The way to tell if a quince is ready to pick comes down to color and smell of the fruit.

'The fruit will lose all of its green colour and turn to a rich golden yellow colour when it is ripe,' says Sheryl Normandeau. 'The fruit will also have a strong, sweet citrusy fragrance.'

Leaving the fruits on the tree as long as possible helps it develop the fullest flavor, though all fruits need to be picked before the first frost.

Handle the fruits carefully and use sharp pruning shears to cut them from the tree.

Place the quince in shallow trays and store them away from other fruits. The fruit will continue to sweeten and soften after picking, and should be stored for 6-8 weeks before being cooked.

FAQs

What is the lifespan of a quince tree?

Quince trees can live up to 50 years when growing in ideal conditions. They tend to take 2-4 years from planting to start producing fruit and remain highly productive until around the age of 25 years.

Can you eat quince straight off the tree?

Some varieties of quince are soft enough to eat freshly picked; however, the vast majority of quince varieties produce fruit that is too tough and tart to eat straight off the tree. They are best left to fully ripen and soften before cooking to release the quince's sweet taste.

There is a long history of growing quince trees throughout Asia and Europe, but the tree has fallen out of favor in recent years.

In the same way, medlar trees are often overlooked, and you rarely find the fruits in stores, so you need to grow your own to enjoy them.

This guide to how to grow medlar trees reveals lots of planting and care tips for if you want to cultivate your own in US hardiness zones 5-8.

After years of working as a professional gardener in very different climates, from the warmth of Tuscany to the wet hills of South Wales, I’ve come to really value the plants, shrubs and trees that are tough and reliable. Those species that need little attention, and quietly hold a space together, offering structure, shade, and a real sense of enclosure and protection.

I’ve spent years working with and studying trees, and co-authored The Tree Atlas in 2024, all of which has only deepened my appreciation for the extraordinary range of trees worldwide. But when it comes to small gardens, pots or patios, I think it’s the fuss-free few that truly shine. The easy-going varieties that don’t demand attention but always deliver on impact and aesthetic.

And, after nearly a decade of working in a range of public and private gardens, I have a select few go-to trees that are perfectly suited to time-poor and space-short gardeners. So, if you’re after some of the best low-maintenance trees that can handle a bit of neglect and still look good doing it, this list is for you.

5 small trees that thrive on neglect

While the following five small trees and shrubs that thrive on neglect are low-maintenance, remember that there is no such thing as zero-maintenance plants, particularly for pot-grown specimens that can dry out very quickly in summer.

Your approach to tree care will depend on where you live and your US hardiness zone, although regular watering and feeding for these tough options will usually only be required in the first year or two while they establish.

1. Japanese maples

When it comes to growing Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, these are certainly small trees that thrive on neglect.

They are remarkably hardy, usually able to withstand cold down to zone 5 or even zone 4, and so long as they are planted in a sunny or part-shade situation with moist but well-draining soil, they will grow just fine without much effort.

While there are many different varieties of Japanese maples, from the lime-green 'Going Green' to the coral-veined 'Sango Kaku', it tends to be the maroon and red options that most people obsess over.

For a crimson variety, try the infamous 'Bloodgood' Japanese maple, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery, sold via Walmart.

'Japanese maples are easy to grow, but can often suffer in exposed situations, especially in climates that are too hot and dry,' says Terry Huang, plant expert and Director of Living Collections at South Coast Botanic Garden in the Los Angeles area.

'They make wonderful specimens in containers, especially dwarf varieties, as they are better suited for long-term container culture,' Terry adds.

'For small spaces, I recommend Acer palmatum 'Cupid', which is a low-maintenance dwarf variety and is grown for its stunning coral-red bark,' Terry continues.

'I also love Acer palmatum 'Crimson Queen', a classic weeping variety with feathery, plum foliage that shifts to crimson and red in the fall.'

Live weeping 'Crimson Queen' Japanese maples are available to order from Amazon.

2. Loquat

Loquats are some of the easiest evergreen trees to grow, thriving in sun-soaked yards and dry soil. Live loquat trees are available from Walmart.

In fact, if you reside in zone 8 to zone 10, you will be hard pressed to find an evergreen species that is quite so simple to look after.

In terms of how to grow a loquat tree, these tropical plants love warmth, so planting them in full sun is best.

They are also some of the best drought-tolerant fruit trees, although deep watering is important during the first year while your tree establishes.

While they can grow up to 30 feet in the ground, if planted in pots, their height and width will be limited, as you can see in the image here. You can also prune any wayward stems in early spring to keep your loquat tree compact.

3. Pines

There are over 100 species in the Pinus plant family found growing worldwide. Many hold on to their needles in every season, and are considered impactful evergreen trees for gardens that look just as good in winter as they do in summer.

Many of the best pine trees (some 49 species) are native plants of North America. Some are widespread, such as the eastern white pine, Pinus strobus, while some are incredibly rare, such as the Torrey pine, Pinus torreyana, found in only two locations in California.

One tough evergreen shrub that thrives on neglect is the mugo pine, or Pinus mugo. This dwarf, low-maintenance shrub is hardy down to zone 3, and can handle frozen winters without any worry.

It is also well-suited to smaller yards, as you can see in the container garden image here, with a slow-growth rate that means you very rarely need to prune.

Live Pinus mugo shrubs and trees are available to order from Nature Hills and are perfect for pot displays in small spaces. For the best results, plant in full sun to part shade and water well in the first year.

If you have a damp yard, one easy-to-grow option would be the loblolly pine, or Pinus taeda. This North American species can be grown from zones 6 to 9 and thrives in boggy, waterlogged soil with little maintenance required.

4. Strawberry Tree

Arbutus unedo, or the strawberry tree, is another good evergreen option and is considered one of the best trees to grow in pots.

I have previously grown this species in a pot on a central London balcony, and it performed remarkably well up against freezing winters and scorching summers.

Growing best from US hardiness zone 7 to zone 10, the strawberry tree thrives in sunny and sheltered spots with little attention needed.

They can reach upwards of 25 feet, although in narrow borders or containers, their growth will be restricted, limiting the amount of pruning that is needed.

In pots, I recommend mulching around the tree’s base to help retain soil moisture during summer, although they are generally very drought-tolerant.

When they are growing well, strawberry trees will produce masses of small creamy-white flowers in spring, before red, strawberry-like fruits emerge in fall. Sadly, these are more ornamental than edible.

Live strawberry trees, Arbutus unedo, are available as starter plants from Amazon.

5. Dogwoods

Many native dogwood trees will prove to be low-effort but high-impact in smaller plots.

Take Cornus florida 'Cherokee Chief', for example, which is a great option for compact yards. With abundant blooms in spring followed by dramatic fall foliage, this variety more than earns its spot in any border or pot display.

Live 'Cherokee Chief' dogwood trees are available to order via Amazon.

'For native dogwoods, I recommend the Pacific dogwood, or Cornus nuttallii,' says Dr Ross Bayton, Director at Heronswood Gardens in Washington.

'Growing in a range of climates and landscapes across North America, this easy species does best from zone 7 to zone 9,' Ross adds.

'It will tolerate shade, although the Pacific dogwood will produce more flowers in part-sun.'

While dogwoods are low-maintenance, they do best in fertile, moderately moist soil, so applying a thick two to four-inch layer of mulch each fall is a good idea.

FAQs

Are serviceberry trees good for small gardens?

Yes, serviceberry trees, or Amelanchier spp., are suitable for small gardens. Whether grown in pots or borders, most varieties will grow no bigger than 15 to 25 feet tall, requiring little maintenance save for watering and feeding during the growing season.

In addition, many species are remarkably hardy and are a good option for cold, northerly yards down to zone 4.

Live serviceberry trees are available to order via Nature Hills.

For other fuss-free small trees that thrive on neglect, consider adding one or two other North American native trees.

In addition to dogwood or serviceberry trees, one of my favorites is the eastern redbud, or Cercis canadensis, with live plants available from Perfect Plants Nursery that all thrive in shady spots.

For a compact variety, try Cercis canadensis 'Ace of Hearts', which is a dwarf tree that will grow no bigger than 10 feet.

Our guide on how to grow eastern redbuds has all the information you need, including feeding and pruning tips.

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Nutmeg has become a common spice around the world, especially when the temperatures drop and it gets added to all manner of baked goods or grated on the top of seasonal hot drinks. While so many people enjoy the spice each year, have many people considered if they can grow a nutmeg tree at home?

A nutmeg tree actually produces two highly-prized spices, nutmeg from its seed and mace from the membrane around the seed. The tropical tree is native to the Molucca Islands in Indonesia, also known as the Spice Islands, and, perhaps unsurprisingly, it thrives growing in warmer climates. Though there are possibilities to grow a nutmeg tree in cooler climates in pots.

Growing a nutmeg tree, and particularly getting it to flower and fruit, can pose a few challenges, but it is possible. If you want to learn more about how to grow a nutmeg tree, I spoke to two experienced horticulturists who cultivate nutmeg in botanical gardens. This guide deep dives into where to plant trees, how to properly care for them, and more.

How to grow a nutmeg tree – an expert guide

A nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans) is an evergreen tree that tends to reach 20-50 feet tall, though mature trees are known to surpass 60 feet.

It has fragrant, dark-green leaves and bell-shaped, waxy flowers. However, the tree is dioecious and produces male and female flowers on different trees, so you need multiple trees for pollination.

Nutmeg trees have been important throughout history and are cultivated predominantly in tropical regions of the globe. If you want to grow a nutmeg tree, though, here are some expert pointers for success:

How to grow a nutmeg tree – planting tips

Nutmeg trees thrive in warm, humid conditions and don’t tolerate cold well. They are only suitable for growing outdoors in US hardiness zones 10 and 11. If you live in a cooler year-round climate, you can grow trees in pots to overwinter plants indoors in a greenhouse, conservatory, or porch for protection.

Paul Blackmore, manager of the Dorothy Chapman Fuqua Conservatory at Atlanta Botanical Garden, which houses several healthy nutmeg trees, says: ‘We grow our trees in very large pots in our tropical conservatory. They are tropical trees and so need temperatures between 70 and 85°F.’

Aaron Hernandez Lee, horticulture team leader for the Rainforest Biome at the Eden Project, which also has thriving nutmeg trees, claims growing the tree is ‘not particularly challenging’ if you can replicate their ideal natural environments.

But, he adds that getting a tree to fruit can be more problematic as it stops flowering and drops fruit if temperatures get outside of its comfort zone.

Wherever you grow a nutmeg tree, it wants to be sheltered from cold temperatures below 30°F, high winds, and even excessive sun, as the tree is susceptible to leaf scorch. An ideal position would see the tree enjoy morning sun and some protection from strong afternoon sunshine.

‘They grow naturally as understory plants in tropical forests, where they are sheltered from direct sunlight and strong winds,’ says Aaron.

‘In the wild, they usually grow in volcanic soils, rich in minerals and essential nutrients,’ he adds. ‘When cultivated, they prefer slightly acidic, well-draining, loamy soils enriched with organic matter.’

Incorporating compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold will enhance any type of soil, ensuring it retains moisture, drains effectively, and is rich in nutrients to support the healthy development of nutmeg trees.

How to grow a nutmeg tree – care tips

Watering

In their native tropical habitat, nutmeg trees experience a rainy season and a dry season.

However, Aaron Hernandez Lee claims that when you grow a nutmeg tree, they ‘appreciate consistent soil moisture’ but do benefit from drier periods during the year.

He says: ‘During spring and summer, we water them regularly, making sure the soil never becomes waterlogged. In the winter months, we reduce watering to a minimum, just enough to maintain soil structure.’

Check the top few inches of the soil to judge when to water plants, and water plants in containers more often to keep the soil consistently moist.

Take care not to overwater plants, as Aaron warns: ‘The most important thing to avoid is soggy soil, especially in moderate temperatures.’

Mulching around trees will help retain moisture in the soil. Nutmeg trees also benefit from regular misting to boost humidity.

Fertilizing

Nutmeg trees growing in rich, fertile soil require fewer additional nutrients in the form of fertilizers. Annual feeding with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, enriches the soil, helping trees stay healthy and produce fruits.

Ideal feeds for nutmeg trees include balanced slow-release fertilizers formulated for fruit trees, while Aaron Hernandez Lee says: ‘We feed our trees twice a year with seaweed fertilizer and small amounts of organic chicken manure pellets, as these can raise the soil’s pH.’

Pruning

Nutmeg trees are not fast-growing trees, so they don’t require extensive regular pruning if you are growing them for ornamental purposes. Trees grown for spice production do require more trimming, as it promotes more branches to increase yield.

The ideal time to prune trees is in late winter and early spring, and regular pruning involves removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches and gently trimming to shape the tree.

As nutmeg trees can grow very tall, a professional arborist will be required for mature trees.

Fruiting

Paul Blackmore from Atlanta Botanical Garden says that nutmeg trees start fruiting around ‘7 or 8 years’ after planting when growing in ideal conditions.

However, Aaron Hernandez Lee adds: ‘It’s important to remember that Myristica fragrans is a dioecious plant, meaning you need both a male and a female tree to produce fruit.’

A mature nutmeg tree can produce fruits for decades, and these fruits are ripe up to nine months after the tree flowers, which can be multiple times per year.

The fruit cracks open to show the seed at harvest time. They drop from the tree naturally and can be collected, or you can harvest them from the tree with a picker.

Propagation

The most common way to propagate a nutmeg tree is from seed. ‘We propagate them from seed at the Botanical Garden, but I know many people grow them from layering,’ admits Paul Blackmore. ‘I’ve heard of people taking plant cuttings, but I understand that it is difficult.’

To grow a nutmeg tree from seed, you can collect seeds as the fruits drop, but they only have a short period of viability and must be planted within 45 days. Soak the seeds before sowing them in individual pots filled with seed compost and placing somewhere warm.

It can take up to six weeks for the seeds to germinate, but one risk of growing nutmeg from seed is there is a 50 per chance of getting unproductive male seedlings.

FAQs

What is the lifespan of a nutmeg tree?

Nutmeg trees usually live up to 60 years, however, in the wild trees have been recorded surpassing 100 years old.

How can you tell if a nutmeg tree is male or female?

The distinction between male and female nutmeg trees is identifiable by the flowers. Male flowers appear in groups of up to 10 and each has anywhere up to 20 stamens, while female flowers are longer, have a single ovary, are petal-less, and occur in smaller groups.

However, as nutmeg trees often do not flower until they reach seven or eight years of age, it takes time to tell if any tree is male or female. Home growers with both trees may need to hand pollinate plants, to supplement the natural process usually carried out by insects.

Another highly-prized spice you can grow at home is saffron. The luxurious spice comes from Crocus sativus, also known as the ‘saffron crocus’, which is grown from corms or bulbs planted in late summer.

When you grow saffron, the distinctive, prized red stigmas are picked from the center of the flowers and need to be dried quickly in a warm and dark place.

The soil in your garden is a major factor in determining which plants and trees will grow best. Sandy soil, known for its light texture and low nutrient content, can present challenges, but the good news is there are a range of trees that will flourish in sandy soil conditions including favorites like maples and oaks.

There is more to love about sandy soil, too. Trees that thrive in sandy environments are often more drought-hardy. The light texture makes sandy soil easy to work with, and its ability to warm up quickly in spring is another key benefit as the trees burst into growth earlier.

While sandy soil’s excellent drainage prevents waterlogging, trees planted in sandy soil need more frequent watering and feeding than those in heavier soils. So ahead of choosing a tree it's important to understand the different soil types to establish what conditions you're working with in your garden.

9 of the best trees for sandy soil

Sandy soil will happily accommodate a range of beautiful trees, especially if you improve the texture by digging in organic matter before planting. Once you have improved the soil health this will help the moisture-retaining ability of the soil too.

'When working with sandy soil, I always encourage looking at pioneer species,' says tree expert Matthew Rowlings. 'These are nature’s trailblazers, the resilient, low-maintenance trees that naturally establish themselves in challenging environments, making them ideal for sandy, nutrient-poor soils.'

We asked some of our favorite tree experts for their recommendations for the best trees for sandy soil, and here are the varieties that made it onto the shortlist.

1. Honey locust tree

If you're looking for one of the best statement trees to suit sandy soil, as well as adding color, structure and seasonal interest to the garden, consider the honey locust tree (Gleditsia triacanthos). A very pretty tree variety with soft feathery foliage that turns deep yellow in fall, this US native is a good choice if you have a large garden and live in US hardiness zones 4-10.

'The honey locust tree is very tolerant of a wide range of soils, including sand,' says landscape designer Alex Betz, founder of Plant By Number. 'It thrives in well-drained soil and does not require high organic content.

'Its deep and wide root system allows it to draw water from deeper underground layers, which is ideal in sandy areas where surface water drains fast. As a bonus, its leaf litter decomposes quickly, improving soil structure and fertility over time.'

2. Silky oak tree

'I designed and farm our 3 acres of sandy soil at La Puma Farms,' says John La Puma, a regenerative organic farmer in Santa Barbara, CA. 'It's a sand dune that never made it to the Pacific, a mile away. Our farm is certified organic for 20 different crops, and we grow many natives and pollinator plants for beauty and productivity.'

John recommends red silky oak (Grevillea robusta), a striking evergreen tree that copes well with poor, sandy soils. 'Its exotic, spider-like blooms are both ornamental and bird-attracting, making it a lively inclusion in wildlife gardens.'

This tropical looking evergreen tree is one of the best fast-growing flowering trees and thrives in zones 9-11. It can reach a mature height of up to 40ft, and enjoys full sun to thrive, in addition to well-draining soil. Its deep root system allows it to access water and nutrients from deep within the soil.

3. Northern bayberry

'We love using this tree for beachfront properties,' says tree expert Alex Bluedorn of LaGuardia Design, based in The Hamptons. 'It’s not fussy, looks great in mass plantings with beach grass, and adds a beautiful dimension when set against modern architecture. Additionally, older specimens can act as a small tree flanking an entry or framing a view.'

Northern bayberry (Morella pensylvanica) is a tough salt and drought tolerant plant. It can be grown as a shrub or small tree, reaching 5-10ft high, and grows best in sandy, acidic, well-drained soil in full to part sun. Find Northern bayberry here at Nature Hills.

Indigenous to the Eastern US and Canada, Northern bayberry occurs from southern Newfoundland to the coastal plains of North Carolina and inland as far west as Ohio (zones 3-8). 'It grows readily in the coastal dune environment with its salt spray tolerance, making it particularly useful for waterside projects and dune stabilization,' explains Alex. 'It's adapted to nutrient-poor soils with its ability to fix nitrogen, enriching the soil and allowing other native plants to colonize and grow.'

Northern bayberry can be planted along the coast, in woodland edge gardens, as a privacy screen, along pathways and driveways or in parking lots. The waxy fruit is an important food source for birds, and their persistence in the winter months is an additional bonus.

4. Eastern red cedar

'The Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) is an excellent example of a resilient pioneer species,' says Matthew Rowlings. 'Not only is it drought-tolerant and tough as nails, but it's dense evergreen foliage also acts as a natural windbreak and privacy screen, making it perfect for coastal or open properties. It’s a tree that thrives on neglect and improves the soil over time, laying the groundwork for future plantings.'

Pioneer species evolved to survive in extreme conditions, so they often require very little in terms of care or soil amendments. 'That said, if you’re unsure which pioneer trees are native to your area, a quick call to your local university extension office can be a game-changer,' advises Matthew. 'They’ll help you find regionally appropriate species that are as tough as they are beautiful and that will work for your specific landscaping needs.'

This columnar tree is one of the easiest evergreen trees to grow and can reach a height of up to 50-100ft. It has small round blue-green fruits in fall. Hardy in zones 2-9, it's widely distributed from Canada to Florida and west to Texas. It also makes it on to our list of the best North American native trees.

5. Red maple

'Another favorite of mine that's one of the best trees for sandy soil is the native red maple (Acer rubrum),' says Matthew. 'It's one of the most adaptable trees in the landscape, capable of handling a range of conditions including sandy soils, especially when some moisture is present. As a pioneer species, it establishes quickly, provides that iconic fall color, and requires minimal maintenance once established.'

Suitable for zones 3-9, this ornamental beauty is one of the best varieties of Japanese maples if you're looking for height as it can grow 40-100ft tall, so think about the mature size of the tree before deciding where to put it. Find red maple trees here at Nature Hills.

6. Japanese black pine

'Sandy soils tend to be well-draining, which helps prevent root rot, but they’re also low in nutrients and moisture retention,' explains arborist Tim Spence. 'That’s why choosing trees that thrive in fast-draining soils and are not overly dependent on nutrient-rich soils is key.

'When working with sandy soil conditions, my go-to ornamental tree is Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii). It thrives in sandy coastal areas. It’s sculptural and salt tolerant. One of my favorite choices for a modern or minimalist garden design, its dark green needles contrast well against lighter landscapes.'

Japanese black pine grows from 20-60ft tall, and is found primarily throughout the eastern US, where it has traditionally been planted along sea shores. It thrives in zones 5-8, and is a popular tree for landscaping design.

7. Desert willow

'Desert willow (Chilopsis linearis) is an excellent choice for one of the best trees for sandy soils,' says David Birkes, a Texas-based contractor with a strong focus on resilient outdoor spaces. David has worked extensively with landscaping professionals on integrating plants into sandy soil environments, especially in Texas where challenging soil and drought conditions are common.

'This tree variety tolerates sandy soils extremely well and offers elegant trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom over an extended period. Aside from aesthetic appeal, it’s highly drought-resistant and works well for providing light shade in outdoor living spaces.

I’ve seen these plants used successfully in both residential properties and outdoor living projects, creating landscapes that are as functional as they are attractive.'

Desert willow thrives in zones 6-9, and grows to a mature size of 18ft. It's a great choice for wildlife, attracting birds, butterflies and bees.

8. Pittosporum

These versatile evergreen shrubs can also be grown as small trees that add ornamental value to the garden landscape when clipped into shape. They are one of the best trees for sandy soil if you're looking for a low-maintenance option in zones 7a-10b.

'Pittosporum is an attractive evergreen shrub prized for its unique foliage, dense growth habit, and ability to take well to pruning, making it ideal for foundation plantings and hedges in sandy soil,' says Linda Vater, garden expert for Southern Living® Plant Collection.

'Varieties like Mojo® Pittosporum available from Southern Living offer the additional visual appeal of variegated foliage, bringing brightness to the landscape.

'Many areas with sandy soil also contend with salt. Pittosporum delivers on both fronts, thriving in well-drained sandy soil and tolerant of salt, making it an excellent choice for coastal landscapes.'

See the wide range of pittosporum varieties available from Walmart.

9. Kentucky coffeetree

This large tree (Gymnocladus dioicus) is native to the South-eastern United States and tolerates a large range of soils but thrives more in sandy soils. 'It has large, blue-green compound leaves which make it attractive in the landscape and provide ample shade for your garden,' says tree expert Lawrence Law. 'They grow up to 80 feet high at maturity, and have high resistance to drought, flooding, salt, pests, and disease, making them an ideal choice if you're looking for a relatively maintenance-free tree.'

The species gets its name from the large seed pods that resemble coffee beans. 'If you don’t want seed pods in your yard there are many cultivars commercially available that don’t have them such as ‘Espresso’, ‘True North’, and ‘Skinny Latte’,' explains Lawrence.

'Kentucky coffeetree is a legume so it will help the other plants in your yard by fixing nitrogen into the soil to make it available for your surrounding garden. The tree likes full sunlight and is a perfect US native for your garden.'

Thriving in zones 3-8, the female trees have clusters of pale greenish-white star-shaped flowers with a rose-like fragrance. It also makes it on to our list of the best drought-tolerant trees.

Now you know about the best trees for sandy soil, find out about the best magnolia trees and the best rowan trees, which are also good choices for sandy soil.

Redbuds are deciduous trees adored for their pink or white spring flowers and unique heart-shaped leaves. Pruning helps keep redbuds healthy and productive, so knowing when and how to prune a redbud tree is integral if you have any of these stunning trees in your garden.

Redbud trees (Cercis) are renowned for their fantastic spring flowering displays. There are 10 redbud species throughout the northern hemisphere, including the native eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis). Redbuds bring color and drama and are great trees for wildlife, providing food for hummingbirds and other pollinators early in the year.

I got tips on when and how to prune a redbud tree from a vastly experienced horticulturist from JC Raulston Arboretum at NC State University, which houses one of North America’s most comprehensive collections of redbuds.

Know the best time to prune a redbud tree

Redbud trees are fantastic fast-growing flowering trees that produce spectacular displays of blooms across their stems, branches, and trunks. Such flamboyant blooming makes them one of the best statement trees for a garden. That is why knowing when to prune a redbud tree is vital, so you do not make any mistakes that ruin that display.

When to prune a redbud tree

Redbud trees are low-maintenance when it comes to pruning, but do need dead, damaged, or diseased branches removed and some structural trimming to help maintain their form. So, when do you prune a redbud tree to achieve those key objectives? Well, that can depend on the reason for the pruning.

‘If there is a significant amount of pruning to be done, it would be healthiest for the tree to do it while it is completely dormant in winter,’ says Mark Weathington, horticulturist and director of JC Raulston Arboretum, which houses a national collection of redbuds with a special emphasis on the eastern redbud.

As for most routine redbud trimming, Mark adds: ‘Generally, a great deal of pruning isn't necessary so I recommend pruning just after flowering.’

Large-scale pruning is best done in winter, but remember that it will affect the tree’s display that year. Small-scale shaping and structural trimming are left for late spring, after the redbud’s spectacular display of cheery spring flowers. That way, you can perfect the tree’s form without impacting the blooming.

However, don’t leave the trimming too late. Add the task to your spring gardening checklist and aim to get it done before the tree has produced all of its leaves, which tends to be by the end of April. Pruning too far into summer will remove the buds formed during the season to carry next spring’s flowering display.

How to prune a redbud tree

As discussed already, redbuds need relatively little pruning. Mark Weathington from JC Raulston Arboretum admits that often it is a case of ‘very little pruning other than a snip here or there to keep plants growing into beautiful small flowering trees’.

Always use clean and sharp pruning tools to prune a redbud tree and do the right pruning method at the correct time of year. And remember that less is more when trimming. If your redbud tree needs extensive pruning, Mark recommends ‘do it in stages over a few seasons rather than all at once’ as it would be a tree pruning mistake to remove more than a third of the branches in one go.

Winter is the time to focus solely on pruning out any dead, diseased, or damaged growth, removing each back to where it meets a larger branch or the main stem.

Structural pruning in summer after the redbud has flowered should include removing crossing limbs, which can rub and create wounds that are entry points for diseases, and thinning out congested areas

Mark Weathington says that ‘lower branches can be removed to raise the canopy’ of both young and mature redbuds in summer and adds: ‘If individual branches grow too long or compete with the top growing point of the tree, they can be pruned back to encourage upward growth.’

Fertilize trees after pruning with a slow-release product designed for feeding trees, such as these tree fertilizer spikes at Walmart that are manufactured to have the right amount of nutrients and remove the risk of making the fertilizing mistake of overfeeding.

FAQs

Can you prune a redbud tree in summer?

You can prune a redbud tree in summer, however, trimming at this time of year will see you lose lots of potential blooms. The tree will have begun forming next spring’s flower buds and pruning in summer will result in removing many of those buds.

Can you trim a redbud tree in the fall?

It is not advisable to prune a redbud tree in the fall. Not only will you be removing flower buds, as outlined above, but the trimming will trigger new growth that won’t have time to harden off before winter and will be damaged by winter colds - leaving the tree susceptible to pests and diseases.

For any trimming, picking the right method for pruning tree branches means you make clean cuts and keep the tree healthy. It includes choosing the right location to cut, whether making sure to cut around a quarter-inch from a bud or pruning larger branches close to the branch collar and not leaving stubs.

Another important aspect of pruning tree branches is to cut larger branches back in stages, rather than attempting to do it all in one go - often leading to peeling or broken bark on the main trunk. Our guide on how to prune tree branches highlights five important lessons that will help keep your trees safe and beautiful.

Almond trees might not be your first thought when looking for plants to grow in containers, but these spring-blooming trees deserve more attention. Even in small and compact spaces, it is possible to enjoy a harvest of nutritious almonds.

Almond trees, or Prunus dulcis, typically bloom in late winter or early spring, and similar to their cherry tree cousins, produce masses of pink or white flowers that have a delicate fragrance. Not only do they look spectacular when grown in pots, but they will also prove popular with early-to-rise pollinators.

So, if you want to elevate your container garden display this year, consider learning how to grow an almond tree in pots. Here, one tree expert reveals all you need to know to succeed, including pot size, fertilizing requirements and how to ensure that you enjoy a harvest of delicious nuts.

How to grow almond trees in pots

Almond trees are native to North Africa, the Mediterranean and the Middle East. They thrive in warm and sunny environments and typically grow best from US hardiness zone 7 to zone 9. While they are generally considered low-maintenance plants, there are a few rules to follow when learning how to grow almond trees in pots.

Growing advice for almond trees in pots

First, choose a large pot that measures around 20 inches in diameter. Selecting a big container will encourage your almost tree to produce a good, strong root network. Find a sheltered and sunny corner in which to position your planter. If it is heavy, you might need to ask a neighbor to lend a hand.

'Almond trees grow best in areas with long, hot and dry Mediterranean-style summers,' says Fern Berg, tree expert and founder of Tree Vitalize. 'Whatever zone you reside in, make sure you position your almond tree in full sun for optimal flower and fruit production.'

Next, you want to fill your container with a good quality potting mix, available from Amazon. 'It is important to use well-draining and loamy soil,' Fern says, 'as almonds do not like to have wet feet.' If needed you can incorporate some grit or sand in your potting mix to improve drainage.

In terms of how to plant a tree, take time to get the depth just right. You must plant it at the same soil level as the pot it came in. Following this, you want to complete some deep watering to help the plant establish. You can also apply a layer of mulch, no more than an inch or two, to the top of the container to help retain moisture during the summer months.

Following this, you want to provide consistent but not excessive moisture, watering only when the top two inches of soil are dry. 'Fertilizing in spring is also a good idea,' says Fern. 'Use a well-balanced fertilizer which will encourage almond tree blossom.' Organic tree fertilizer is available from Amazon.

If your tree is happy, it should produce between 10 to 20 inches of growth each year, although this can be much reduced when grown in a pot. Prune your almond tree in winter when the plant is dormant, removing any dead, diseased or damaged stems while also thinning the center of the crown to create an open canopy.

Almond tree varieties to grow in pots

Almond trees are some of the best trees to grow in pots, but before launching ahead and ordering a plant that you like the look of, think carefully about the variety. 'Unless you intend to plant two different almond trees, you should select a self-fertile cultivar,' Fern says. 'This means that the tree can produce fruit on its own without the need for another plant to pollinate it. Fortunately for us, self-fertile options are today increasingly available.'

'One excellent self-fertile option is the dwarf 'Garden Prince’ variety,' Fern says. 'It grows to just 8 to 10 feet tall and produces beautiful blossoms and a good crop of sweet, soft-shelled almonds.

'For those in cooler climates, consider growing the ‘All-In-One’ variety,' Fern says. 'This compact and hardy almond tree is rare in that it can be grown down to zone 5. It is self-fertile, reliable and produces sweet nuts after a few years of growth.'

Live plants of the 'All-in-One' almond variety are available to order from Amazon.

FAQs

Do you need to winterize almond trees?

While this will depend on the species and variety you grow, in most cases, winterizing almond trees is only necessary for gardeners in very cold regions. 'Almond trees actually need a minimum amount of cold or ‘chill hours’ in order to break dormancy and produce flowers,' Fern says. 'So if you grow in zone 7 plus, you shouldn't need to winterize them unless a very heavy frost is on the way.'

In terms of nut production, you can expect your trees to produce their first crop 3 to 5 years after planting. While this does require a small amount of patience, the wait will be worth it when you are impressing friends and family with a harvest of delicious, sweet almonds.

For more inspiration, see our growing guide for flowering cherry trees and how to grow flowering cherry trees in pots, to fill your yard with even more spring flowering plants this year.

Native to South Africa, dwarf jade plants, also known as Portulacaria afra, have become a popular choice for bonsai enthusiasts in recent years, not least because the species is said to bring luck and fortune to those gardeners who lovingly tend them.

Dwarf jade bonsai trees are notably low-maintenance, thriving indoors with minimal care or attention. This hardy species also responds well to regular shaping and pruning, making them an easy succulent to manage.

So, if you are seeking to elevate your indoor plant collection this year, dwarf jade is one of the easiest bonsai trees to grow that will suit both complete beginners or seasoned bonsai experts. Here, one expert grower from Mississippi reveals all you need to know to learn how to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees.

How to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees indoors

In its native environment, Portulacaria afra can grow up to 10 feet tall, producing a thick trunk with a canopy of oval-shaped succulent leaves. As with all bonsai tree types, when correctly trained, this natural form can be miniaturized, looking particularly impressive when planted in a shallow ceramic dish. Here, we reveal how to get started and care for dwarf jade bonsai trees.

How to get started with dwarf jade bonsai trees

'Several bonsai species are low-maintenance and adaptable, making them ideal for beginners and experts alike,' says Brussel Martin, bonsai expert and owner of Brussel's Bonsai Nursery, based in Mississippi. 'For indoor bonsai growing, however, dwarf jade is one of the best.'

To begin, you need to source a healthy plant and suitable supplies. You want a young specimen with firm, glossy leaves and no signs of damage. Ask at your local plant nursery, or see these dwarf jade bonsai trees available from Brussel's Bonsai Nursery via Amazon.

Next, use a suitable, shallow pan to house your new bonsai tree. Make sure yours has a drainage hole, beneath which you can place a dish to collect any water that drains away. As with all bonsai trees, dwarf jade does not enjoy sitting in waterlogged soils, so using the right dish filled with free-draining bonsai soil is important. Bonsai ceramic pots are available from Amazon.

When grown outdoors, this species enjoys sunshine and warmth, thriving in US hardiness zone 9 plus. So, when growing dwarf jade as bonsai trees indoors, you want to position them away from external doors where the temperature can fluctuate. Do not let temperatures in your home drop below 40°F/5°C.

'In terms of how to grow dwarf jade bonsai trees, they thrive in bright but indirect light, making them perfect as a centerpiece in a room,' Brussel says. Avoid placing them on a windowsill as direct sunshine magnified through a window can damage the foliage. Red edges on the leaves appear when the plant is exposed to high light levels, which is nothing to worry about - just a sign that your plant is happy.

'In addition, remember that these plants are from an arid environment, so water them sparingly, only when the soil is dry to the touch,' Brussel says. This can be every two to three weeks during spring and summer, depending on the conditions in your home, and even less in fall and winter.

Ongoing care for dwarf jade bonsai trees

When considering ongoing care for a bonsai tree, dwarf jade trees are incredibly low-maintenance. Unlike other bonsai trees that require wire to shape them, dwarf jade trees generally produce a solid trunk that can happily support the canopy. However, be sure to regularly shape and prune them throughout spring and summer, to keep your bonsai looking good and growing in the desired form.

While dwarf jade bonsai trees can tolerate low light, it is also a good idea to rotate your planter once every two weeks, to ensure that all sides are receiving some light. This will ensure that your bonsai produces even growth on all sides.

In terms of how to water plants, keep an eye on the soil during spring and summer, as indoor pots will frequently dry out during the warmer months of the year. One effective method is to submerge your bonsai planter in a bucket of water, allowing the soil to soak for 15 minutes once every two or three weeks. Be sure that the water can then drain away and that the drainage hole is not obstructed.

Apply a balanced, diluted fertilizer every four to six weeks during the growing season to provide your plant with all the nutrients it needs. While they can survive for long periods without additional feed, doing so every two months will give your plant a boost. Bonsai fertilizer is available from Amazon. Avoid fertilizing during fall and winter, when the plant enters its dormant phase and is not actively growing.

Finally, while you can move your dwarf jade bonsai tree outdoors on warm, sunny days, be careful not to shock your plant. In summer, you can move your plant outside for a few hours of gentle, warm sunshine in the morning, but avoid doing so during the heat of the day in the afternoon.

FAQs

What are the white marks on my dwarf jade bonsai tree?

Dwarf jade bonsai trees are generally resilient, but as with any indoor plants, they can occasionally attract pests. If you notice white patches or marks at the leaf joints, it could be mealybugs. These sap-sucking scale insects can be treated with an organic neem oil, available from Amazon, which should be done in an open, ventilated environment. Quarantine infested plants until you have cleared any pests.

For another plant option, consider learning how to grow Japanese maple bonsai trees. While Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, are traditionally woodland plants, they make for ideal miniature bonsai trees when grown outdoors. Our guide has all the information to help you succeed.

Orange trees are low-maintenance fruit trees and pruning is not overly complicated but is important to maintain the health and shape of the tree. Regular trimming will help guarantee a fantastic annual harvest of sweet and fragrant oranges.

I have grown and cared for citrus trees over the years. The kitchen gardens I worked in housed large fruit tree collections, including different orange trees. We were growing orange trees in pots in our UK climate and bringing them indoors for winter and the trees required only minimal pruning each year.

Whether you grow orange trees in the ground or containers, it pays dividends to prune them regularly. The following six steps cover when and how to prune an orange tree to help you avoid mistakes and have healthy, fruitful citrus trees.

How to prune an orange tree - 6 steps to follow

Orange pruning need not be daunting. The tools required include a pair of pruning shears for small stems, loppers for thicker branches, and a pruning saw for large limbs - depending on the size of the tree - and these are six easy steps to follow for successful orange pruning.

1. Prune at the right time

Pruning fruit trees at the correct time of year keeps them healthy and ensures they recover from any trimming as best as possible. So, with that in mind, the best time to prune an orange tree comes in late winter or early spring. It is a task to do just before the new growth starts for the incoming season.

When to prune an orange tree will vary depending on your US hardiness zone. The perfect time can be between February and April, so keep a close eye on when the frosts end in your climate and look for signs the orange tree is starting to burst into life.

There are several benefits to pruning oranges during dormancy. At this time the tree is conserving energy and can handle trimming best and it can recover quickly when the growth starts again in spring.

Valeria Nyman, the chief product officer of Taim.io, adds: ‘If you prune when the tree is dormant, it won’t waste precious sap on branches you’re about to snip. Another bonus is that no fruit or flowers get in your way.’

Add pruning orange trees to your spring gardening checklist and wait until the frosts end for your region. Orange trees can survive dips in temperatures but prolonged cold periods post-pruning could cause dieback.

2. Use clean and sharp tools

A prerequisite for any trimming is to use clean and sharp pruning shears. Sharp pruning tools make clean cuts easier to heal than jagged cuts from blunt or rusty tools, which can remain open longer and leave the tree at risk of pests and diseases. Not only that, but sharp garden tools will make pruning much easier.

Clean garden tools prevent you from spreading diseases around the garden. Bacteria or fungal spores can reside on dirty tools and be moved from plant to plant if tools are not cleaned after use. It is not difficult to sanitize tools, simply spray them with a disinfectant after using them and wipe them clean.

3. Remove the 3D's

So where do you start with pruning citrus trees? ‘Begin by removing any dead, damaged, or diseased branches to keep the tree healthy,’ advises Maureen Wright, fruit tree expert from Fast Growing Trees.

Closely inspect the tree and prune out any of the above, removing them completely back with your pruning shears to where they meet a main branch or the trunk.

4. Thin the canopy

The next step is to thin the canopy of the tree. Look for branches that cross or crowd the center of the tree, along with any branches growing inwards. Maureen Wright claims that annually thinning the canopy means ‘better airflow and sunlight penetration’ that encourages healthy growth and reduces the risk of diseases.

Removing crossing branches, or those likely to cross shortly, also preserves the tree’s health. Crossing branches will rub against each other and cause wounds, that become entry points for diseases.

5. Remove sprouts and suckers

‘Next, take out suckers (those would be the overly ambitious shoots at the base) and water sprouts (the tree’s equivalent of a bad haircut),’ recommends Valeria Nyman.

Suckers appear from the base of the trunk and sprout from below the graft union. These thin and spindly stems grow straight up from around the trunk. They take precious energy away from the rest of the orange tree and, even if they produce fruit, will differ from the variety you are growing. It is best to remove the suckers.

Water sprouts grow vertically from the trunk or other large limbs. These vigorous shoots can be caused by previous heavy pruning. They will be the same variety as the orange tree, but water sprouts are weaker, easily damaged, and take energy away from more productive branches. Prune the water sprout back as close to the branch or trunk as possible.

6. Avoid heavy pruning

Heavy pruning can stress the orange tree. Be selective with your pruning and avoid taking more than a quarter-to-a-third of the plant material. A pruning mistake would be to remove more than this, as there would be no guarantee how the stressed tree would respond. The likelihood is it would produce a flush of weak growth that could easily be damaged and leave the tree susceptible to pests and diseases.

Shop tools for orange pruning

FAQs

Do orange trees need to be thinned out?

There are benefits to thinning out the fruit. It is important with young orange trees to ensure they can bring fruits to maturity. Thinning fruits means developing and ripening a selected number, rather than a larger amount of oranges that the tree cannot fully mature. With established orange trees, thinning fruits can reduce the load on branches to prevent them from cracking or splitting.

On top of pruning orange trees, fertilizing citrus trees is another essential task to get a great harvest of fruits. Feed trees in spring and summer with a specially formulated citrus fertilizer, such as Espoma citrus-tone available at Garden Goods Direct. When you grow fruit trees in pots, regular feeding every few weeks during summer with a liquid feed, such as this citrus fertilizer on Amazon, will provide trees in containers with all the nutrients to develop and ripen oranges.

Kumquats are adorable citrus trees with evergreen leaves, fragrant flowers, and tiny, tangy fruits reminiscent of mini oranges. They are suited to hardiness zones of 9-11, but like many citruses, they will grow happily indoors if conditions are right.

Perhaps surprisingly, kumquat fruits have edible skin (it's actually sweeter than the flesh). They can be eaten raw, candied, cooked into baked goods, or used to make marmalade. The trees, which are compact in size, are self-fertile, which means you'll only need one to enjoy a harvest.

I turned to plant-care experts for advice on looking after these citrus trees at home. Below, you'll find their tips for growing success, including essentials on watering, fertilizing, and pruning.

How to grow kumquat trees indoors

Indoor trees always make a statement, but there are a few things to bear in mind to keep them looking their best.

Growing habits for indoor kumquat trees

'To successfully grow a kumquat indoors, it all starts with selecting a variety ideal for growing in containers,' says Amy Enfield, a senior horticulturist at ScottsMiracle-Gro. Her recommended examples include 'Fukushu' and 'Nagami', as well as 'Centennial Variegated' which has variegated leaves and striped fruit. You can shop for 'Fukushu' and 'Nagami' kumquats from Fast Growing Trees.

While kumquat trees outdoors can grow up to about 10ft (depending on variety), note that indoor, pot-grown ones will reach shorter heights.

Growing guide for kumquat trees indoors

Soil: Justin Hancock, a Costa Farms horticulturist, says you can use just about any general-purpose potting mix for growing these trees indoors. It needs to be labeled for use in containers, he highlights, as landscape soil may not drain properly, especially in larger pots. 'You can also use potting mixes formulated for citrus plants, but it’s not necessary if you’re careful not to overwater.'

Light: Nastya Vasylchyshyna of Plantum says that kumquats require 8-12 hours of daylight for optimal growth, and warns that a lack of light causes the leaves to remain small and will hinder flowering and fruiting. Amy says, 'The sunniest windows in your home are south- or west-facing; however, during the winter, even those windows may not provide enough light. So, during low light times of year or if sunny windows are limited in your home, supplement with grow lights which provide the full spectrum of light fruiting plants need for healthy growth.'

Watering: 'Water your kumquat tree when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch,' recommends Amy. The leaves will begin to curl inward when your kumquat plant is too dry, she adds, while overwatering leads to water-logged soil which can cause root rot.

Fertilizing: 'Most people find it’s best to fertilize their kumquat trees in spring and summer because there’s more light and warmer temperatures to fuel plant growth,' says Justin. 'The more it grows, the more nutrition it absorbs from the soil.'

You can use time-release or water-soluble fertilizers. Time-release ones can be applied as infrequently as once or twice a year, he explains, or as frequently as the label on the packaging recommends, depending on how much and how fast you want to encourage your kumquat to grow. Water-soluble ones usually come as liquids or powders you mix with water and then use when you irrigate your plant, he continues, noting how it’s important to read the instructions for application frequency. 'While you can always fertilize less than the product packaging says, never use more fertilizer than the packaging advises. Too much fertilizer can create a buildup of nutrient salts that damage plant roots. In severe over-fertilization, it could even kill your kumquat.'

Pruning: 'Indoor kumquat trees require less pruning than those grown outdoors,' says Nastya. She recommends giving it a trim every spring, once it resumes active growth, by removing leggy shoots and bare twigs to shape the tree and encourage new growth. 'Make angled cuts just above the leaf nodes,' she advises. 'The key is to avoid pruning during the flowering period, as it can stress the plant.' Dead or unhealthy branches can be removed throughout the year if necessary, she adds.

Toxicity: Kumquats are edible fruits for humans, but like any homegrown crop, they should be washed before consumption (and avoid those that have been treated with chemical pesticides or herbicides). It's generally advised to prevent pets from eating citrus fruits and plants, as they can cause stomach upset and other issues.

FAQs

What size container should you use for an indoor kumquat tree?

'The size of your kumquat tree when you purchase it will determine what size container you need,' says Amy. 'An eight-inch container with drainage is often ample for a young kumquat tree and will usually provide enough growing space for up to four years.'

Eventually, the time will come to repot your plant into a larger container. 'Mature trees may need a container that is 12-18 inches in diameter, depending on the variety you’re growing,' Amy says.

How can you encourage an indoor kumquat tree to produce fruit?

Amy says, 'Your kumquat tree may need a few years after planting before it will start to produce flowers and ultimately fruit.

'Small, white flowers will form in late spring through early summer. When pollinated, these flowers will eventually develop into fruit which ripen in late fall and winter.'

While outdoor kumquat trees rely on pollinators to fertilize the flowers, Amy notes how indoor kumquats need to be pollinated by hand. You can do this by using a small, soft-bristle paintbrush to move the pollen from the male flowers to the female flowers, she says.

If you're interested in growing more citrus fruits at home, our guide on how to grow a lemon tree indoors has lots of useful tips.

Lychee is a unique tropical fruit tree with distinctive fruits that appear like strawberries covered with rough, dimpled skin. The exotic fruits are a staple in Asian markets and are now increasingly seen in grocery stores. But can you grow lychee at home?

The answer is that you can, but it is a challenge and whether it is worth trying may depend on your climate, the size of your garden, and the level of your patience. To help reveal how to grow lychee, I got tips from a tropical fruit expert to cover all you need to know for success.

Lychee can be bought as young plants to be grown in the ground and containers or grown from seed if you want even more of a challenge. This in-depth guide to how to grow lychee looks at everything from planting the fruit tree through watering, feeding, pruning, and ultimately harvesting the sweet fruits.

How to grow lychee - an expert guide

Lychee (Litchi chinensis) is a slow-growing tropical evergreen tree and a native plant to southern China. It has been grown in Southeast Asia for thousands of years. Prized for attractive foliage and bountiful fruit clusters, lychee can be challenging to cultivate as part of backyard ideas.

How to grow lychee - planting tips

Lychee thrives in tropical and subtropical climates, such as US hardiness zones 10 and 11. It wants warm and humid summers and cool, dry winters with no freezing temperatures. Mature lychee trees can tolerate temperatures as low as 25°F, but cold temperatures will damage young trees.

If you live in a colder climate, you can grow the fruit trees in pots and bring them indoors into a greenhouse, conservatory, or porch for winter. The trees want to spend spring and summer outdoors to ensure pollination, so, unless they are in a greenhouse, growing them as indoor fruit trees year-round will see them not bear fruit.

An ideal location for lychee is full sun, promoting vigorous growth and optimal fruit development. Pick a spot that gets at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily and is protected from damaging winds.

Tatiana Anderson from Top Tropicals says that well-drained, slightly acidic soils rich in organic matter are ‘ideal’ for growing lychee. The tropical fruit expert also warns against planting lychee in certain other soil types. She says: ‘Avoid heavy clay soils or areas prone to waterlogging, as lychee trees are susceptible to root rot.’

Lychee can grow up to 40 feet tall and must be given sufficient space. Plant lychee at least 20 feet away from structures or other trees - as cramping the trees can impact their growth and harvest.

Lychee can be purchased as container-grown trees or propagated via air layering or seed. Once the risk of frost has passed, spring is the ideal time to plant fruit trees in the yard. Add a sprinkle of mycorrhizal fungi to the roots to help promote strong growth.

‘Mycorrhiza plays a crucial role by enhancing the nutrient uptake of lychee trees, particularly phosphorus, leading to better growth and fruit production, especially in soils with low phosphorus availability,’ hails Tatiana Anderson.

How to grow lychee - care tips

• Watering - Lychees need consistent watering throughout the year. It is especially crucial to keep the soil moist during dry periods in summer. Young trees will require frequent watering to establish, though even mature trees will benefit from regular deep watering during warmer months. As mentioned earlier, avoid overwatering, as lychee trees are sensitive to waterlogged conditions. Mulching around the base of trees with organic matter, such as compost, bark, or wood chips, can help retain moisture in the ground and regulate the soil temperature.
• Fertilizing - Lychee trees need feeding during the growing season to support healthy growth and fruit development. Using a natural, balanced fertilizer is preferable and it is important to avoid giving the tree too much nitrogen - which can inhibit flowering. Fertilize in spring and summer with an organic fruit tree fertilizer, such as this natural fruit tree fertilizer available at Amazon, and always apply at the recommended rates to avoid burning the lychee’s sensitive roots.
• Pruning - Tatiana Anderson advises that ‘mimimal pruning is required’ with lychee trees. As for how to prune the fruit trees, she recommends: ‘Pruning after harvest can encourage new growth. Remove dead or diseased branches and shape the tree to maintain its structure.’ The trees crop in early summer, with the ideal time to prune the fruit tree coming at, or shortly after, harvest time. Trimming off new growth at this time helps to keep the fruiting consistent.
• Harvesting - It can take 3-5 years for lychee tree to start fruiting reliably. The tree blooms in early spring and the fruit ripens in early summer. The best indicator of ripe lychee is the color and waiting till the right moment ensures you get usable fruits. ‘Wait until the fruit's skin turns bright red or pink, indicating full ripeness. Lychees do not ripen off the tree, so it's essential to harvest at the right time,’ says Tatiana Anderson. The fruits ripen at different times, so it is best to check clusters regularly, track the color, and do taste tests to check the sweetness, to get fruits at the optimal time. Use a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears to cut the clusters from the tree when the fruits are ripe. Lychees are best used fresh within a few days of picking, however, they can be stored in a refrigerator for up to a week.

How to grow lychee from seed

You can grow lychee from seeds saved from homegrown or store-bought fruit. The downside is that fruits sold in grocery stores may be hybrid and there is no guarantee the resulting fruit matches the parent plant. Also, growing lychee from seed can require patience as it takes 5-20 years to produce fruit.

Save the seed and soak it in water for three days - this softens and cracks the seed’s outer layer. Plant the lychee seed an inch deep into an individual pot filled with well-draining potting soil and place it somewhere warm between 75-90°F. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged and seed germination should take 2-4 weeks.

Put the lychee seedlings into a sunny spot once they emerge and be patient. They can be very slow-growing for the first few years and will require putting into a larger container before being planted outside.

FAQs

What is the lifespan of a lychee tree?

A lychee tree can have a long lifespan and potentially live for over 100 years.

Another distinctive, and increasingly trendy, tropical fruit for growing in warmer tropical climates is jackfruit. The exotic fruit tree loves tropical and subtropical climates and jackfruit flesh has become very popular as a meat substitute in vegan dishes. See our guide to how to grow a jackfruit tree for in-depth planting and care guidance if you want to add a characterful jackfruit tree to your backyard collection of fruit trees - they are even suitable for growing in large pots.

Quinces are attractive fruit trees that can reach up to 20 feet tall, depending on the variety, and produce highly fragrant yellow fruits popular for jams, jellies, or desserts. If you grow a quince tree, pruning is a key maintenance task to get right.

It is not difficult or rigorous to prune quince, but trimming is important to keep the fruit tree healthy and fertile - helping you get a better crop of fruits. Understanding how to prune your fruit trees successfully will include knowing the best time to prune quince and learning the simple methods to trim both young and established trees.

I have previously worked in ornamental and production gardens that housed quince trees, including a very large quince tree in one historic garden. To help reveal when and how to prune quince, I also got some tips from an experienced ISA-certified arborist.

Tips for when and how to prune quince trees

Quince can be easy fruit trees to grow as they are low-maintenance. They don’t need a lot of pruning but will benefit from some, as young trees need formative pruning and established quince benefit from some simple upkeep.

Do you need to prune quince?

Quince trees are known for not requiring lots of pruning, they can often cope well without much trimming. However, there are benefits to pruning. It may not need to be done annually, but prune quince trees every few years and they will remain healthy and productive.

A quince tree left unpruned for too long can develop a thick and crowded canopy - which can cause complications for the tree. Mason Hanrahan, a certified arborist and president at Tim-O-Tree, warns that crowded canopies can be filled with crossing branches and at risk of disease.

‘Crowded canopies tend to be dark, moist and poorly ventilated, which are ideal conditions for disease, such as leaf blight,’ says the tree expert. ‘Thinning crowded quince canopies can improve light penetration and ventilation, leading to a canopy that is less vulnerable to disease.’

Pruning offers several benefits, as well as keeping the tree healthy and shaped it is an ideal way to get a quince tree to fruit prolifically.

When to prune quince trees

Knowing when to prune fruit trees ensures they remain healthy and respond well to the trimming. Get it wrong and it can be a fruit tree pruning mistake that jeapordizes the future health and productivity of any tree.

In terms of quince, the right time to prune quince trees is during their dormant season. This can be anywhere between leaf drop in late fall and bud break in winter, however, the best window is typically in late winter and early spring.

Avoid pruning too early in the fall, as it will result in a flush of new shoots that will be damaged by the winter cold. Also, never prune fruit trees during extreme cold in the middle of winter. This can cause dieback and leave the tree at risk of pests and diseases.

How to prune quince trees

It requires common garden tools to prune quince trees. The potential list of useful pruning tools to have will include pruning shears, loppers, and a pruning saw. Any tools should be clean and sharp to reduce injury to the tree and avoid leaving it susceptible to pests and diseases.

Pruning young quince trees

The focus for the first 1-3 years after planting the fruit tree is to create a good framework for the future. Quince trees are often trained to be vase or goblet-shaped trees with open centers. A good framework would have 3-5 evenly spaced branches around a central leader and a main trunk kept bare of lower branches up to at least four feet from the ground.

‘Pick a single central trunk when the tree is young and remove competing trunks,’ recommends Mason Hanrahan. ‘It is okay to allow multiple stems to develop, as this increases the productive area of the canopy, but lateral spread from the trunk should be limited - the farther branches extend laterally, the more likely they are to break.’

Any branches that cross, compete, or grow inwards towards the center of the quince tree should be removed, along with weak, dead, diseased, or damaged branches.

Pruning established quince trees

An established and well-shaped quince tree will require minimal pruning over future years. The trimming will primarily focus on the following two tasks:

1. Start by removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches back to where they meet a stem or the main trunk.
2. Identify any weak, congested, or crossing branches to remove and improve airflow and light penetration into the canopy of the tree

Mason Hanrahan also advises shortening the length of any ‘overextended branches’ on the tree. ‘Quince trees grow their fruit at the tips of the branch,’ he says. ‘The added weight, amplified by leverage from the length of the branch, can lead to branches breaking.’

Be methodical when you prune quince but do not be too heavy-handed. It is not advisable to remove any more than a quarter of the canopy and doing so can stress the tree and lead to unpredictable regrowth.

Shop pruning tools

FAQs

Should you remove quince tree suckers?

Quince trees will often produce suckers from their base. They tend to be grafted fruit trees and the suckers sprout from the root system and take precious energy away from the rest of the tree. Remove these suckers by cutting them off right to ground level with a pair of sharp pruning shears.

Pruning as part of an annual care regime can help any fruit tree remain productive. A key part of such a successful routine needs to be fertilizing fruit trees, to give them the nutrients required for strong, healthy growth and to flower and fruit. An established fruit tree will always reap the rewards of being fed with a balanced organic fertilizer in late winter or early spring before growth starts for the new season.

Yerba mate, or Ilex paraguariensis, hails from South America. Brewing the dried leaves results in a traditional caffeinated drink (often referred to as ‘mate’), which is widely popular in this part of the world.

The plants themselves are evergreen, and can grow from shrubs into tall trees if conditions are right. With their delicate fall flowers and red berries, they make attractive backyard additions – even if you’re not fussed about harvesting the leaves.

There are a few key things to get right for growing success. This includes the climate: a hardiness zone of 9-11 is usually suitable. There are other factors to bear in mind, too, as gardening experts reveal below.

Growing habits for yerba mate plants

As with any plant, growing a healthy yerba mate calls for the right soil type, watering method, pruning technique, and more.

Yerba mate plants, available from Perfect Plants nursery, can be planted straight into the ground or in a large container. They need warm temperatures to thrive – above 60°F – so pot-growing is best if you need to bring yours indoors through winter. Like when growing cinnamon plants, humidity is also important for the best results.

Growing guide for yerba mate plants

​​Soil: Kiersten Rankel, an expert from plant-care app Greg, says, ‘Yerba mate prefers well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.’ She also notes that the soil should be rich in organic matter, so it’s a good idea to mix in compost before planting. ‘Avoid heavy, clay soils that retain too much water, as these can lead to root rot,’ she adds.

Light: Kiersten highlights that yerba mate grows best in partial shade to dappled sunlight. ‘In its native environment, it often grows under the canopy of taller trees, and you can mimic those conditions by providing filtered light or shade during the hottest part of the day. Too much direct sun can scorch its leaves.’

Watering: 'The soil should never dry out completely,' says Julia Omelchenko, an expert from Plantum. However, while frequent watering is a must, Ilex paraguariensis doesn’t tolerate waterlogging, she notes. 'Adjust the watering frequency based on rainfall and the soil’s moisture level. Once the topsoil dries out by about an inch, it’s time to water the plant.'

Fertilizing: According to Kiersten, fertilizing yerba mate is important for healthy growth, although over-fertilizing should be avoided as this can damage the plants’ roots. Alexander Betz of Plant by Number recommends feeding the plants with a balanced, acidic fertilizer or compost every two to three months during the growing season (spring and summer). 'Apply it around the base of the plant, avoiding direct contact with the trunk, and water thoroughly afterward,' he says.

Pruning: ‘Pruning yerba mate helps shape the plant and encourages new growth,’ Kiersten says. She recommends doing so in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. ‘Remove any dead, damaged, or weak branches, and shape the plant to your preference. Regular light pruning can also encourage bushier growth, which is beneficial for leaf production.’ According to Julia, pruning also promotes air circulation and light penetration, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.

Toxicity: Yerba mate is generally considered unsafe for pets, so should be kept away from them. For most adults, drinking mate (the drink made from the leaves) is said to be likely safe, and may even have health benefits. However, some research suggests high consumption could be be linked to an increased risk of cancer. Pregnant people, breastfeeding people, and those on medication should consult a healthcare professional before drinking mate.

FAQs

How do you harvest yerba mate leaves?

‘Harvesting yerba mate involves cutting the leaves and young stems, typically during the plant’s active growing season in spring or summer,’ says Kiersten.

‘Use clean, sharp scissors or pruners, and take only a small portion of the leaves from each branch to avoid stressing the plant,' she says. Julia advises cutting no more than one-third of the plant at a time, to give it a chance to recover.

‘After harvesting, the leaves are traditionally dried and aged before being used to make yerba mate tea,' Kiersten adds.

Can you grow yerba mate indoors?

Yes, growing yerba mate indoors can be a good option if your backyard climate isn’t suitable. Just be sure to keep humidity levels high, and that it’s positioned in a warm and bright spot.

If you’re interested in other ways to grow your own herbal tea, our guide has plenty of practical advice.

Dating back thousands of years in China and Japan, the ancient art of bonsai has long captivated gardeners. Indeed, growing miniature trees in shallow dishes has never gone out of fashion, and today, this wonderful craft continues to impress and mesmerize.

Bonsai requires diligence and focus, but the payoff is undoubtedly worth it. Not only is the process calming and meditative, but bonsai trees will also elevate your outside space. After all, how many of your neighbors have a perfectly cared-for Japanese maple bonsai tree sitting atop the patio table? Many gardeners are deterred from bonsai growing, believing it to require expert skill and prodigious patience, and while this is true in part, certain species are well-suited for beginners.

So, if you want to know what the easiest bonsai trees for beginners are, you have come to the right place. Here, one expert grower from Mississippi reveals five resilient bonsai tree types that are responsive to regular snipping and shaping and will make for a perfect introduction to this ancient craft.

5 of the easiest bonsai trees for beginners

When considering how to care for a bonsai tree, it’s important to consider factors like your climate, US hardiness zone, and the specific requirements of each tree. Outdoor bonsai trees typically need more sunlight and are better adapted to natural weather patterns, although in summer their soil can easily dry out, and in winter their shallow dishes can quickly freeze. Here are five of the easiest bonsai trees to try growing this year, with suitable care instructions for each species.

1. Juniper

'Juniper is one of the most popular outdoor bonsai trees, especially for beginners,' says Brussel Martin, bonsai expert and owner of Brussel's Bonsai Nursery, based in Mississippi. 'Many may recognize it from the 1984 film, The Karate Kid, with Mr Miyagi calmly training and trimming his juniper bonsai tree.

'As an evergreen, juniper stays green year-round and requires minimal maintenance compared to other species,' Brussel adds. 'With proper watering, it can even handle cold temperatures with little protection.'

Junipers can be grown down to US hardiness zone 4, making for an ideal selection if you reside in a cooler region. As Brussel says, this tough species would require little protection, even in frosty winters, although bringing plants under cover during periods of heavy snowfall is a good idea.

For a native plant, why not learn how to grow creeping juniper, Juniperus horizontalis, as a bonsai tree? Low in form and often with contorted stems, this species can be easily shaped with regular trimming.

Juniper bonsai trees are available to order from Brussel's Bonsai Nursery via Amazon.

2. Japanese Maples

'Japanese maple trees are also beginner-friendly outdoor options,' Brussel says. 'While they do require slightly more maintenance than a juniper, with regular watering and consistent trimming throughout the year, learning how to grow Japanese maple bonsai trees isn't too challenging.'

Japanese maple trees, or Acer palmatum, can be grown from US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8, and thrive in a part-sun-part-shade position. As Brussel says, regular watering is important for maples, as these woodland plants typically prefer moist but well-draining soil in their natural habitat.

Japanese maple bonsai trees are available to order from Amazon.

3. Bougainvillea

While not hardy, bougainvillea bonsai trees can be grown in warmer regions. This tender plant can be left outside down to US hardiness zone 9, so is better suited to southern states, including Texas, Florida and California.

Growing this floral vine in bonsai form is relatively easy, and surprisingly, bougainvillea responds very well to regular shaping and container culture. During the first two years, you want to focus on developing one main trunk, as you can see in the image above. While this does require patience, carefully pruning any low-side shoots or basal growth will help to encourage this habit.

Place your bougainvillea in a sunny location, watering every few days and feeding once a month during the growing season. While it might take a few years to achieve the bonsai look, it is certainly worth the wait.

Bougainvillea bonsai trees are available from Amazon.

4. Azaleas

You may already have azalea shrubs in your yard, and while these popular plants undeniably look good in borders, they also make for attractive bonsai trees. Brussel recommends azaleas as another beginner-friendly option, prized for their spectacular spring blooms which look just as good in miniature form.

In terms of how to grow azaleas, most species do best from US hardiness zone 6, enjoying a part sun position with moist but well-draining soil. In the wild, azaleas typically grow at the edge of woodlands in rich, fertile ground, so combining some organic matter with your compost is a good idea.

There are hundreds of different species to consider, but two popular bonsai options are the southern Indian azalea, Rhododendron indicum, and the Kyushu azalea, Rhododendron kiusianum.

Azalea bonsai tree kits are available to order from Amazon.

5. Chinese Elm

Brussel also recommends that beginners also consider growing Chinese elms as bonsai trees. Native to eastern Asia, including China, Japan and Vietnam, Chinese elms, or Ulmus parvifolia, are robust and forgiving deciduous trees, making them perfect for bonsai cultivation.

They can be grown down to zone 4 and are fast-growing trees, responding well to regular pruning. They will quickly produce a mass of dense, glossy foliage, looking particularly impressive when planted in a bonsai dish. Chinese elms are relatively tolerant of most conditions, but part sun part shade is optimal. In addition, consistent watering during summer will generate the best results.

Finally, if you are interested in fairy garden ideas, Chinese elm bonsai trees would help to create a small and enchanting corner in the yard. Chinese elm bonsai trees are available to order at Amazon.

FAQs

Can I grow bonsai trees indoors?

All of the above species are best suited to outdoor cultivation. If you try to grow a maple tree indoors, for example, you are doomed to failure. Instead, select species that can handle consistent heat and humidity. 'In my opinion, for indoor bonsai trees, stick to species like ficus or dwarf jade, both of which are the ideal choice for beginners and are well suited to the conditions of the home,' Brussel says.

The craft of bonsai does require consistent effort. Regular pruning, shaping and supporting your tiny trees is crucial. Be sure to invest in a pair of bonsai scissors, available from Walmart, which will certainly make this fiddly task easier.

For more information, see our guide on the art of bonsai, to learn how this ancient practice can boost mental wellbeing.

While we might like the idea of an evergreen yard that remains vibrant and full of life all year long, many evergreen trees are best kept out of our gardens. Whether for their aggressive nature or tendency to outcompete other trees, certain species can do more harm than good.

As a gardening professional, I have experienced many instances where vast and towering evergreens have become a source of frustration for homeowners. While their lush, dense foliage is to be admired, the wrong evergreen in the wrong place can prove to be a challenge requiring regular maintenance. For example, a mighty conifer is better suited to a vast landscape, not to a small yard where it will dominate all other plants.

Here, I reveal five evergreen trees never to grow in your yard, with suggestions of what species to consider instead. So, whether you are wondering what evergreens are best suited to an urban plot, or you want to find out what trees never to plant in a small backyard, our guide will help you to make the right decision for your borders.

Evergreen trees never to grow

There are many different evergreen trees found growing across the world. Perhaps the most infamous evergreen plant family would be conifers, with examples including pines, redwoods, spruces, cedars and fir trees.

Whatever evergreen tree you opt to grow, it is always recommended to select a species that is suited to your US hardiness zone and to fit your yard. Here are five evergreen trees never to grow, with recommendations on what to plant instead.

1. Leyland Cypress

'In small backyards, the biggest problem with many evergreen trees can be their mature sizes,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center.

'Most evergreens will get large in a hurry,' Bert continues, 'including the Leyland cypress, or Cupressus × leylandii. While this species is famed for its rapid growth rate and is often used as a front yard hedge for privacy, this speed comes with significant downsides. I would recommend staying away from most pines and spruces in gardens unless you opt for a narrow or dwarf variety.'

Indeed, as Bert references, Leyland cypress trees can reach up to 50 feet tall, and without regular pruning, they will quickly create dense shade that will prove challenging for other nearby plants.

'If you are in a warm enough climate, residing in US hardiness zones 7 to 10, you can grow the Italian cypress tree, Cupressus sempervirens,' Bert says. 'While tall, this species remains narrow, and could be grown in small backyards.'

Blue Italian cypress trees are available from Nature Hills.

2. Chinese privet

Chinese privet, or Ligustrum sinense, is another evergreen tree to avoid growing. It is considered an invasive tree in many southeastern US states, including Tennesee, noted for its ability to spread rapidly. Once established, it is very difficult to remove from garden beds and borders.

'If you’re looking for a green privacy screen, consider slower-growing evergreens like American holly, or Ilex opaca,' Bert says. 'Learning how to grow holly is relatively straightforward, and the native option is ideal for a more manageable and durable evergreen alternative.' American holly trees are available from Amazon.

American holly can be grown down to US hardiness zone 5 and typically exhibits a very slow growth rate, often extending no more than one foot per year. Pruning once every three years in spring will help to keep this native evergreen under control.

3. Eastern white pine

Pinus strobus, commonly called the eastern white pine, is a large tree native to eastern North America, found growing across much of Minnesota and Illinois. While beautiful, this evergreen tree is best suited to vast landscapes and kept out of backyards. After all, an 80-foot conifer might not be the optimal evergreen for smaller spaces.

What's more, the eastern white pine tends to have a shallow root system, meaning that it will make life very difficult for other trees, shrubs and perennials as the soil will quickly lose moisture.

Consider growing one of the other best pine trees that are more suited to smaller plots, such as the dwarf Alberta spruce, Picea glauca ‘Conica'. This species is remarkably hardy and can be grown down to US hardiness zone 3, reaching no more than 10 feet tall.

Alberta spruce live plants are available from Amazon.

4. Manchineel

Manchineel, or Hippomane mancinella, is an evergreen tree that is found growing in Florida, Mexico and across Central and South America.

Despite showing a remarkable ability to bind soil and prevent coastal soil erosion, manchineel is often considered one of the most poisonous plants in the world. For this reason, it is best admired in its native range and kept out of backyards.

For a non-toxic evergreen tree, try growing Arbutus unedo, or the strawberry tree. The strawberry tree is native to the Mediterranean and can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus. This tree will reach no taller than 30 feet and is valued for its red fruits that are produced in late summer.

Strawberry trees are available to order from Amazon.

5. Giant Arborvitae

Giant arborvitae or western red cedars, Thuja plicata, are the largest species in the genus Thuja, growing up to 230 feet tall. When seen in the wild, this mighty evergreen can take on a pyramidal shape, with an attractive dark red bark.

For obvious reasons, the giant arborvitae is best avoided when landscaping backyards. Instead, opt to grow a smaller, dwarf variety, such as the golden oriental thuja, Thuja orientalis 'Aurea Nana'.

'For an unusual evergreen option, you could also try growing the ‘Little Gem’ magnolia,' Bert recommends. 'This is one of the best trees for small yards, with a mature height of 24 feet. It is hardy from zone 7 to zone 9 and mature trees have a beautiful late spring flower to complement the lush evergreen leaves.'

'Little Gem' magnolia live starter plants are available from Amazon.

FAQs

Can I cut down a large evergreen conifer tree in my yard?

It is always best to consult with your local government office before cutting down any large, established trees. Various cities and states will have different rules about tree cutting, even on private property, and it is crucial to find out whether or not you need a permit before taking action.

Whatever evergreen trees you decide to grow, remember to keep an eye on your plants during winter. As evergreens retain their foliage during the colder months of the year, they may need supplemental watering during dry periods. Applying a thick layer of mulch can help to retain moisture, and will also insulate the soil and roots in winter.

For more tree inspiration, see our guide on the best trees for water absorption, to help reduce waterlogging and flooding in your yard this year.

Borders underneath large trees can be challenging to cultivate. Whether you have a large oak, poplar or chestnut tree in your yard, often the ground underneath can appear dull and bare, save for a few opportune seedlings or weeds.

However, some shrubs are well-suited to these conditions, preferring the dappled shade of a larger, established tree overhead. In hot summers, this canopy can protect shrubs, shielding them from the harsh rays of the July sun.

If you are looking for some of the best plants for under trees, these five shrubs will grow quite happily in challenging conditions. From the scented daphne to the evergreen Japanese holly, these shrubs for under trees will help you to make the most of your growing space.

Best shrubs for under trees

Most yards typically have one, two or several established trees. Or, maybe you have none, but there is a large established tree in the neighboring plot. Whatever your circumstances, trees can prove challenging for other plants, creating a dry, shaded region underneath their canopy. For this reason, growing shrubs for shade or part-shade that are adaptable and resilient is the best course of action. Here are five shrubs for under trees to fill your borders with greenery.

1. Viburnum

'There are approximately 170 viburnum varieties found growing across much of the Northern Hemisphere, with a wide range of beautiful options for gardeners,' says Alex Kantor, gardening expert and owner at Perfect Plants. 'They thrive in partial shade and prefer well-drained soil. While drought-tolerant, be sure to water consistently during the first year while the shrub settles into your yard.

'Most - if not all - viburnums are woodland plants, growing at the edge of forests and thriving in dappled, partial sunlight,' Alex says. 'They are prized for their beautiful and often fragrant flowers, and can be used as hedges, understory plants or specimen shrubs.'

One native option would be the maple-leafed viburnum, Viburnum acerifolium, which is found growing in woodlands from New Jersey down to North Carolina. This species can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 8 and will tolerate dappled dry shade under the canopy of a large deciduous tree.

Another option would be Viburnum rhytidophyllum, or the leatherleaf viburnum, seen in the image above. This evergreen option has attractive oval leaves and dainty pink blooms in spring. Leatherleaf viburnum seeds are available to order from Amazon.

2. Azaleas

'Azaleas are well-suited for growing under large trees, especially in dappled or partial shade,' says Alex. 'They prefer well-draining, slightly acidic soil and benefit from a layer of mulch to retain some moisture during summer.

'Choose the 'Red Ruffles' variety, available from Perfect Plants, for a smaller option with spectacular color,' Alex recommends. Alternatively try growing the yellow azalea, otherwise known as Rhododendron luteum, seen in the image above, which can be grown in shady beds down to US hardiness zone 5.

As a former professional gardener, I previously cared for three yellow azaleas that grew in a shady woodland border, and I can testify that these are some of the best shrubs for under trees in deep shade.

'In terms of how to grow azaleas, water them regularly, especially during dry spells,' says Alex, 'which will help them to establish in the first few years. Annual mulching will also help to feed the plant, and avoid any need for supplemental fertilizer.'

3. Daphne

Daphne is an ideal understory plant, thriving in a part-sun-part-shade position under large trees. They can be grown from US hardiness zone 7 plus, and in milder regions, will retain their foliage year-round.

'Daphne are spectacular but slow-growing shrubs, typically only growing around two to six inches per year,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

The most common form, winter daphne, otherwise known as Daphne odora, is a compact shrub producing attractive pink, star-like fragrant blooms in winter. For an unusual species that is well-suited for dry and deep shade, try Daphne laureola, producing small yellow-green flowers that will illuminate borders in challenging spots under large trees.

'The optimal time to plant daphne bushes is during the fall or early spring,' Mike adds. 'These periods allow the plant to establish its roots before facing extreme temperatures.'

Daphne live plants are available from Walmart.

4. Japanese holly

Japanese holly, or Ilex crenata, is considered one of the easiest evergreen shrubs to grow and can prove useful underneath large trees where conditions are tough. This slow-growing plant is similar to other topiary plants, including yew or box, in that it forms a dense spread of lush, green foliage.

Japanese holly is suitable for cooler regions and can be grown from zone 5 plus. What's more, it is also pest and problem-free, in stark contrast to box topiary. While you can shape them with regular pruning, you can leave them alone under large trees to form a loose, natural green covering. Dark berries will also help to add interest to your fall and winter garden.

Japanese holly live plants are available from Walmart.

5. Sweet box

If you are looking for some of the best fragrant evergreens, sweet box, or Sarcococca confusa, is one plant to consider. Native to Asia and the Himalayas, sweet box is a shade-tolerant understory plant, that can thrive in dry soil and deep shade. What's more, they are also considered some of the best ground cover plants to prevent soil erosion, helping to bind loose, dry soil in sloped sites.

When working as a gardener in London, I cared for several sweet box shrubs that had been planted underneath large deciduous London plane trees, Platanus × hispanica. I rarely paid the sweet box shrubs much attention and they proved to be tough and versatile plants.

In terms of how to grow sweet box, it does best from US hardiness zone 6 plus, positioned in deep shade or part shade. Water well during the first year, and annually apply a thick layer of mulch to help with moisture retention.

Sarcococca live starter plants are available from Walmart.

FAQs

How should I plant shrubs under trees?

Planting around the base of a tree can be a challenge. It is best to keep at least a few feet away from the trunk of the tree, and to dig smaller holes using a trowel or hori hori knife, to avoid disturbing the tree roots in any way. For this reason, it is best to use starter plants that will eventually grow into larger shrubs. While this requires a degree of patience, starting small will produce the best results.

Planting one or more of these shade-tolerant species under large trees will help cover the bare patches of soil in your yard. Always remember, right plant right place, and in this case, using woodland plants in the understory of your garden will help to maximize greenery in challenging borders.

For more garden inspiration, see our guide on the best trees for water absorption, to help reduce waterlogging and wet borders in your yard.

French drains saw a spike in popularity at the start of last year and the trend shows no sign of stopping. A cursory Google of this clever drainage solution will bring up dozens of forums of gardeners recommending French drains as the only solution for a waterlogged yard.

However, French drains aren't a miracle cure for garden drainage. They won't work at the top of slopes, they need somewhere to discharge, and they're expensive to install.

So, while a good French drain can be the perfect solution, there are a few alternatives to consider before you dig up your lawn.

What's the deal with French drains?

French drains are a popular solution to lawn drainage problems. This ingenious solution involves digging a trench and laying it with filter fabric and a perforated pipe, covered in gravel and turf. This creates a hidden drain that moves water away from a lawn, removing waterlogging.

Landscape expert Ryan Farley explains that 'French drains are great for providing some extra natural drainage for your yard, and can help prevent flooding or waterlogged soil without using electricity.'

However, Ryan says 'It depends on your individual situation.' French drains aren't always the solution for standing water in a yard, because they can't help with standing water on patios. Because they're submerged, they can be hard to fix if they clog. French drains can also be fairly expensive. They can't be installed at the top of slops, or near tree roots, and they need to be carefully planned so the water remains in your water and doesn't drain into a neighbor's garden.

This means that a French drain may not be the best solution to your drainage problems, so why not consider one of these six French drain alternatives.

1. Build a dry creek bed

Dry creek beds are one of the cheapest alternatives to a French drain. You can think of a swale like a French drain without a pipe. Dry creeks are long trenches of gravel or rocks placed at the bottom of slopes. The idea is that these rocks filter excess water into the soil, unlike a French drain which will carry excess water off to a dry well or other water storage system.

However, dry creek beds won't work in every type of yard. The rocks slowly drain water into the soil, so they aren't always great at handling stormy weather. They also disperse water directly into the soil rather than move it away, so they won't help with standing water near a home's foundations.

Creek beds can easily clog with leaves and other debris in the fall, and on top of that, unlike a French drain, you can't cover them with turf, so you need to landscape them with water-loving rocky plants like reeds and rushes. This can look beautiful, but it doesn't work for every garden style.

2. Create a swale

You usually see swales in commercial or residential planting, but you can also introduce them into a domestic yard. A grass swale is a shallow ditch lined with turf. Done right, you hardly notice a grass swale - it's just a little ditch at the bottom of the yard. Grass swales are also simple to install - you just need to dig a ditch and line it with turf or native, water-loving plants.

Unlike a French drain, this isn't a deep ditch - it should slope at around 4%, so it's a relatively straightforward design. Any water will run off to drains at either end of the swale. This also makes swales easy to troubleshoot, because you can easily see any blockages at the drain hole, unlike French drains where the pipe is buried under rocks and turf. You can also plant grass swales with water-loving grasses, just like a dry creek bed.

The downside to grass swales is that they're best for dealing with stormwater runoff, not more everyday waterlogging. They can alleviate waterlogged lawns but not entirely solve them. While they're great for handling stormwater, they can look pretty ugly after heavy rain, as they'll turn into a boggy ditch. They also won't work for steep lawns, and they can be hard to DIY. A swale needs a wide, shallow trench, which can be a surprising amount of earth to shift without professionals.

3. Plant a willow

If you have a lot of standing water, one of the best natural solutions can be to plant willow or other moisture-absorbing trees. Willows consume a lot of water, so planting willow is a natural way to drain off some water from boggy ground.

On top of that, willow is easy and fast to grow. You can buy pot willows like this at Fast Growing Trees but all you need is a branch. A withy (branch) of willow planted into moist soil will quickly grow roots. In the best conditions, willows can grow up to 10 feet in a single year.

However, there are some big drawbacks. You need the right tree for your climate zone, but the major downside is that willows are so thirsty that they can suck up all the moisture from your other plants. This can inhibit their growth, particularly impacting yields of fruits and vegetables.

Because willows are so quick to grow, they can quickly become invasive and hard to remove from the yard. Willows also grow masses of thick, sturdy roots, and if you grow them too near to a house or drains you could wind them undermining your foundation or pipes.

4. Consider making a rain garden

Rain gardens are plantings designed to handle roof runoff. The idea is that you plant an area of your yard with water-loving plants, creating a boggy area that can capture rainwater and slowly filter it back into the soil, preventing water from overwhelming drains or pooling on patios and lawns. This is probably the best-looking option on this list, and an opportunity to create a beautiful planting of water-loving plants.

However, rain gardens are primarily a way of dealing with roof runoff, not waterlogging. They stop too much water from being diverted to public drains. While this can certainly help a waterlogged garden, capturing water that could otherwise end up on your lawn, rain gardens can't solve the issue by themselves.

If you have very heavy clay soil as is found throughout the South, a rain garden won't solve the issue. In this case, you need to introduce mulch to the soil or a French drain to help move the excess water.

5. Install a dry well

Dry wells are another way of capturing rainwater. You can think of them like buried rain barrels. They're huge, underground stores of stormwater that collect gallons of water and slowly release it into the soil. This reduces waterlogging because it removes the water from the surface of the lawn and slowly releases it further underground. You can also place a dry well in a disused corner of a yard, so if you're still worried about waterlogging you'll know that it's happening away from the main lawn.

However, you needn't think of French drains and dry wells as opposite solutions. In fact, you can combine the two, and hook a French drain up to a dry well. The drain will move standing water away from the lawn and into the well, where it will slowly disperse back into the soil.

This can be an excellent drainage method as it prevents waterlogging and keeps the water within your yard, preventing any potential disputes with neighbors and ensuring your soil gets all the hydration it needs for healthy plants. The only drawback is the cost - this dry well kit at Home Depot costs almost $500.

6. Add a trench drain

Trench drains are classic drains - you probably walk over a dozen of them a day without noticing. They are small, narrow trenches covered with a metal or plastic grate. They're the best way to deal with water pooling around the foundations of a home or on a patio. Like swales, they're easy to fix if they clog, because you can take off the grate and fish leaves or other debris out of the trench.

The problem with trench drains, however, is that they're usually only installed on patios, or at the points where a patio meets a lawn. This means that they can't always alleviate waterlogged lawns. If your waterlogging issue happens where your patio meets the lawn, a trench drain is a great way to move this water.

However, if you have standing water out in the middle of the lawn, a trench drain won't help you. Trench drains are also pretty ugly. You can find decorative trench grates like this at Home Depot, but they're all fairly utilitarian, and they can make a backyard feel a little corporate.

Most of these solutions will only help with waterlogged lawns. If you have another drainage issue, taking a look at wide range of drainage ideas out there could offer another solution. French drains can be great, but they only really work for lawns.

During stormy weather and periods of heavy rainfall, many yards can experience waterlogging or even flooding. Excess water in your yard can be more than just an inconvenience, it can lead to property damage. Fortunately for us gardeners, many trees can help with water absorption and reduce moisture levels.

Certain tree species, both native and non-native, have evolved to thrive in wet regions, with extensive root networks taking up large amounts of water. Growing species that have impressive water-absorbing abilities will help to ease the pressure on drainage systems during fall and winter.

So, if you are looking for plants for wet soil that you can utilize as a natural drainage solution, here are five of the best trees for water absorption, including elegant weeping willows and robust, resilient arborvitae, for attractive and practical borders this year.

Best trees for water absorption

Levels of moisture in the soil vary depending on geology, climate and US hardiness zone. In northern regions that experience heavy snow and rainfall in winter, for example, waterlogging is common during January, February and March. However, using trees for water absorption is a clever landscaping trick that can help to improve drainage.

Even one large tree can make a difference, with some estimates suggesting that a single 100-foot-tall tree can absorb more than 11,000 gallons of water in a single growing season.

1. Willow

There are approximately 350 species of willow, or Salix, native to cool and temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere. They come in many different shapes and sizes, and most are well suited to water absorption, particularly the weeping willow, Salix babylonica. or the white willow, Salix alba.

Most willow species can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to zone 9, with a preference for full-sun and moist soil. A word of caution, however, is that 'these fast-growing trees need plenty of space,' says Florida-based tree expert Alex Kantor.

'With a rapid growth rate and extensive root system, willows can cause problems in smaller yards, disrupting pipes and outcompeting smaller plants,' Alex adds. 'At maturity, some species can reach 50 feet tall, so these are certainly trees to avoid planting close to a house.'

So, while they are well-regarded for water absorption, willows are best suited to larger, rural plots. Finally, always do your homework, as some willows are considered invasive trees in particular states.

While the standard weeping willow is far too large for a smaller space, there are several dwarf varieties that are better suited to smaller borders. For example, Salix integra 'Pendula' is one dwarf variety that is highly rated for water absorption but will not grow taller than three to four feet.

Weeping willow live plants are available from Walmart.

2. Red maple

The red maple, or Acer rubrum, is a native alternative to Japanese maples. Found growing in swampy or wet areas across North America, the roots of the red maple can efficiently manage excess moisture in the soil, making this a good option for flood-prone regions.

Red maples grow best in US hardiness zones 3 plus, tolerating a variety of soil and light conditions. They can grow upwards of 60 feet, so for the best results, give them plenty of room to grow at the back of your plot.

Finally, this native tree is perhaps best known for putting on a brilliant fall display, with deep red foliage helping to mark the transition into fall. Practical and beautiful, all in one tree.

Red maple live plants are available from Walmart.

3. River birch

For a native option that is well suited to wet, poorly drained soils, try growing the river birch, or Betula nigra. As you might guess by the name, the natural habitat of the river birch includes riverbanks, making it a good choice for regions with periodic flooding.

The river birch can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 9 with a preference for full sun. It produces shallow but wide-spreading roots that absorb moisture while also stabilizing the soil.

Just be sure to give the tree plenty of room to grow - at maturity, river birches can reach up to and over 60 feet tall. While you can prune the tree to limit its height, remember that the bigger the tree, the greater its ability to absorb moisture.

River birches are also known for their peeling bark, which adds year-round visual interest and texture to borders, complementing the golden-yellow foliage display in the fall months.

River birch live trees are available from Walmart.

4. Eucalptus

There are over 700 different eucalyptus species growing worldwide, most of which are native to hot regions in Oceania. However, some species, such as the swamp gum, Eucalyptus ovata, or the river red gum, Eucalyptus camaldulensis, thrive in boggy, wet soils.

Both of these two options are best suited to mild, temperate areas from US hardiness zone 8 to zone 10, with a preference for sunshine and high humidity.

In very dry areas, eucalyptus trees can be a fire hazard, as their foliage and bark are notoriously flammable. What's more, they can reach upwards to 100 feet tall if left unpruned, so any eucalyptus species are best suited to large yards and should be planted far away from the home.

Eucalyptus live trees are available from Amazon.

5. Arborvitae

'Arborvitae, or Thuja, are often considered fast-growing hedges, shrubs or trees, showcasing remarkable growth in short periods,' says Bert Bast, garden expert and owner of Bast Brothers Garden Center.

'The ‘Green Giant’ variety can grow two to three feet per year once established,' Bert adds, 'which is helpful if you are looking to fill a gap in a sunny yard.

'These are some of the easiest evergreen trees to grow and are fully hardy, growing down to zone 3,' Bert says. 'What's more, they can tolerate very wet environments, making them a great choice for areas with consistently moist soil in fall, winter and spring.'

Arborvitae live plants are available from Amazon.

Whatever trees for water absorption you opt to grow, remember that planting is best done from fall until early spring, typically around November until March. Select a week when the temperature is cold but not frosty, and avoid planting into waterlogged soil.

For more gardening inspiration, see our guide to some of the best low-maintenance trees, to fill your yard with adaptable and resilient species that require little attention.

To keep pawpaw trees productive and in good health, pruning at the right time and in the right way is essential. Pruning will not only keep your pawpaw trees compact and under control but will also encourage vigorous growth for the year ahead.

Pawpaw trees, or Asimina triloba, are cherished for their unique fruits and lush foliage, both of which can be seen in the images here. Recognized as the largest edible fruit grown in North America - similar in shape to papaya - pawpaw trees have undergone a revival in recent years, with many gardeners planting these native trees in backyards. Suitable care is essential, however, particularly if you want to enjoy a bumper harvest.

It is for this reason that learning how to prune pawpaw trees is crucial. Here, in this guide, we’ll explore the best pruning practices to adopt, with expert tips to maintain the health and productivity of your prized pawpaw trees.

When and how to prune pawpaw trees - an expert guide

Pawpaw trees are some of the best fruit trees to grow. While they might not be as well known as apple or plum trees, this native species is sure to add something special to your yard. Growing best from US hardiness zone 5 to zone 8, pawpaw trees are generally tough and resilient, but pruning at the right time is important if you want to maximize the crop of fruits for the coming year.

When to prune pawpaw trees

The optimal time for pruning these native trees is during late winter, just before your pawpaw tree produces new growth in spring. Pruning during this dormant phase, typically around February or early March, reduces the risk of disease transmission and allows cuts to heal.

'Winter pruning is necessary for a range of shrubs and trees,' says Drew Swainston, former professional gardener and gardens content editor at Homes & Gardens. 'This is often easier for gardeners, with bare branches making the job ten times quicker.

'There is also a practical reason for doing so, which also applies to pawpaws,' Drew adds. 'Since sap is not rising during winter, cuts are less likely to bleed. This means that pruning during this dormant period will be less of a shock for your tree, and wounds should quickly callous and heal.'

The best thing you can do is to keep an eye on the weather, as you want to prune at a time when it is cold, but there is no risk of heavy snow or frost. Be careful not to leave it too late, however, as trimming in late March could be a pruning mistake as you risk cutting into new growth just as the tree is jumping into life. So, the trick is finding that sweet spot in late winter, when the worst of the cold is over, but the warmth of spring is yet to arrive.

How to prune pawpaw trees

While pawpaw trees are some of the easiest fruit trees to grow, they do have specific requirements when it comes to pruning. Before you begin, always be mindful to use sharp, clean garden tools, sterilizing any pruning saws, secateurs and loppers. Doing so will prevent the spread of any infection or disease from other trees in your yard.

First, you want to inspect your pawpaw tree for any signs of damage from strong winds and frosty weather in fall and winter. You will easily spot any branches that have snapped or exhibit discoloration due to rot. Simply trim these back to a healthy joint, making sure your cut is smooth and clean. For larger branches, pruning snips will not suffice. Instead, use something like this Corona pruning saw, available to order from Amazon.

Next, focus on shaping the tree to encourage an attractive, open structure. Pawpaw trees naturally have a central leader trunk, but oftentimes they can have several larger stems, appearing more like a multi-stemmed specimen. While this is no bad thing, regular thinning of crowded middles by removing these competing branches will improve air circulation and light penetration, which is essential for fruit development.

One common tree pruning mistake to be wary of when trimming pawpaw trees is not to remove too much growth, which can shock the plant. Stick to the one-third pruning rule, cutting no more than 20 or 30% each winter. This way, you will contain the vigor of your pawpaw tree and encourage new growth, without causing any harm.

After pruning your pawpaw tree, dispose of all clippings and wood. Any healthy material can be cut down and added to your compost heap.

FAQs

How do I prune an overgrown pawpaw tree?

Pawpaw trees can reach up to 30 feet tall if left unmaintained. To bring an overgrown pawpaw tree back down to size, remember to stick to the one-third pruning rule, cutting no more than 30% each year. Focus on topping your pawpaw in the first year, limiting its height, while also clearing the trunks of any horizontal growth at the base of the tree. In subsequent winters, you can gradually reduce the overall canopy and size.

Wait until spring before feeding your pawpaw tree. Feeding is recommended from April when the weather warms up and plants need nutrients for the growing season ahead. Applying fertilizer in winter is a waste of time and resources, and can do more harm than good.

For more tree pruning advice, see our guide on how to prune rowan trees this year, for healthy plants full of colorful berries.