Summer weeding is unavoidable, but it doesn’t always need to feel like a chore. I have spent countless hours weeding vegetable gardens and flower borders, and my go-to tool for fast, efficient weeding is a stirrup hoe.

A stirrup hoe is perfect for speedy weeding thanks to its push-pull action and is nimble enough to effortlessly remove young weeds in packed borders or between rows of vegetables. The tool slices weeds just under the surface, eradicating them without disturbing the soil.

If you are looking for a garden hoe that will remove weeds with minimum effort, I would always reach for a stirrup hoe. One like this wood-handle stirrup hoe at Home Depot can be used throughout the garden to keep it weed-free and looking its finest.

What Is a Stirrup Hoe?

A stirrup hoe, also called a hoop, shuffle, or oscillating hoe, is a weeding tool with a flat U-shaped metal blade that cuts through weeds with a push-pull action.

As the blade is double-edged, it efficiently cuts through weeds in both directions, slicing them just beneath the soil surface.

The blade comes in various widths and is attached to a long handle, allowing you to use the tool while standing.

The Benefits of Using a Stirrup Hoe for Weeding

A stirrup hoe is really efficient for weeding a garden quickly. The push-pull weeding action makes it fast and easy to kill young weeds, and you can clear even large areas quickly. As the head glides just underneath the soil surface, it kills weeds without disturbing the soil structure.

I have always found a stirrup hoe very nimble to use, and the narrow head was perfect for getting rid of weeds between rows of crops in vegetable gardens. I regularly used one to slice weeds between rows of carrots, beets, onions, leeks, and many more without too much fuss.

But you can also clear large areas quickly, which is perfect when preparing beds for new plantings. I had a routine of removing large or perennial weeds by hand, running over the ground with a stirrup hoe, and then raking – hey presto, the bed is ready for planting.

Outside the kitchen garden, I found the stirrup hoe also works perfectly in flower beds. You can get up close to plants and remove small weeds confident you are not unnecessarily turning over the soil. That is important, as soil disturbance results in moisture loss during the summer.

One formal garden I worked in had a large parterre filled with plants, but also a lot of soil on show. This needed very regular weeding, and my go-to tool was the stirrup hoe. I could quickly weed the sections without disturbing the soil.

As the stirrup hoe skims just under the surface, it doesn’t require the same effort as some other types of hoe, like a Dutch hoe or draw hoe. These usually require a bit more labor and tend to disturb the soil more.

The stirrup hoe works best on small weeds that can easily be sliced down. If you take it out often, you can quickly eradicate young weeds before they establish. You want to get into a good habit of taking the gardening tool out for maximum efficiency.

However, it doesn’t have the same efficacy on larger weeds or those with established tap roots. It may struggle to cut through larger stems, and when it does, it can leave the roots, which will resprout.

If you are dealing with larger weeds, including dandelions, a weeding tool like this stand-up weed puller at Amazon can help make the task easier and less painful on your back or knees.

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Weeding can usually be relatively simple, but there are some faux pas to avoid. Our guide to some of the most popular weeding mistakes reveals what not to do when dealing with these unwanted invaders to our gardens.

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Weeding can feel relentless during the growing season. Leave the garden unattended for even a few days in spring or summer, and you'll likely return to find dandelions, docks and other self-seeding weeds taking hold in your borders.

Rather than relying on chemical weed killers, which can harm wildlife and the wider ecosystem, a more sustainable solution is to grow plants that naturally suppress unwanted growth. By forming a dense canopy over the soil, these varieties limit the space and light that weeds need to germinate and thrive.

As a professional gardener, I have grown many of the following plants, selecting them for their ability to crowd out weeds while adding ornamental value. Much like the best ground cover plants to stop weeds, these evergreen and perennial picks are proven to keep borders looking fuller, healthier and largely weed-free. Here, I share six of the best plants to stop weeds.

1. Monkey Grass

When considering how to grow monkey grass, or Liriope muscari, this tough and versatile ground cover can be grown from US hardiness zone 4 to zone 10, tolerating a wide range of climates and conditions.

Over time, this part-shade perennial forms a lush carpet of evergreen foliage that covers bare soil and naturally crowds out weeds, helping to reduce maintenance while keeping borders looking full and tidy throughout the year.

'If you are looking for a plant that will form a dense carpet and keep weeds at bay, monkey grass is a superb option,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner at You Had Me At Gardening.

'While this low-growing plant might take a year or two to establish, once it is settled and happy, it does not require much attention, easily tolerating dry periods in summer.'

You can find great value 'big blue' liriope plants at Nature Hills.

2. Juniper

If you are looking for low-growing evergreen ground cover plants to choke out weeds, juniper should be at the top of your wish list.

Juniperus horizontalis, commonly known as the creeping juniper, is an attractive foliage shrub that will provide year-round greenery, useful in challenging areas under large trees.

One of the best native plants to stop weeds, juniper can be grown in US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 9, doing best in a sunny spot. If you are wondering how to get rid of weeds without using sprays or chemicals, then planting juniper is a good option.

The 'blue rug' groundcover juniper from Fast Growing Trees is a great option.

3. Carex

If you are looking for a low-maintenance plant that will naturally crowd out weeds, carex is hard to beat. Considered one of the best native grasses, many carex species spread steadily to form dense clumps that cover bare soil and leave little room for unwanted growth.

One attractive option is Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pennsylvanica), a fast-growing native with fine-textured foliage that turns warm shades of orange and copper in fall. It can be grown from US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 8, and thrives in partially shaded locations.

Many carex species spread via rhizomes, producing underground stems that send up new shoots and gradually knit together into a weed-suppressing carpet. For the best results, avoid one common weeding mistake and plant carex in generous drifts rather than as isolated specimens, allowing the foliage to quickly fill gaps and shade the soil.

You can find Carex 'feather falls' plants at Burpee.

4. Ground Cover Roses

If you are looking for the best course of action to keep weeds out of flowerbeds, growing resilient plants with dense canopies is a good option.

Ground cover roses, otherwise known as procumbent roses, can be very useful for gardeners seeking to suppress weeds. 'Ground cover roses are low-growing, typically reaching 1 to 2 feet tall,' says garden expert Katie Sunderlage.

'These roses, when planted close together, can form a dense and thick rose carpet,' Katie adds. 'Not only will this mean a sea of blooms, but it will help to keep weeds out of the yard, unable to compete with the canopy and root networks of your roses.

There is a wide selection of groundcover roses, including this beautiful Peach Drift® Groundcover Rose at Nature Hills.

As with all roses, when considering how to grow ground cover roses, it is optimal to select a sunny site with well-draining soil. Fertilize your plants during the growing season using a rose feed, available from Walmart.

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5. Pinus Mugo

Often considered one of the best pine trees, Pinus mugo, commonly known as the dwarf pine, is notable for its compact and dense habit.

When planted in groups, small mounded shrubs will eventually connect, forming a cloud-like structure. However, the dwarf pine is a slow-growing shrub, so be warned, it might take several years to fill a border.

You can find dwarf mugo pine shrubs at Fast Growing Trees.

Growing best in US hardiness zone 3 to US hardiness zone 7, this low-growing shrub is ideal for those cooler yards in northerly locations.

Helpfully, fallen pine needles form a mulch layer on the surface of the soil which can prevent weeds from germinating. So, while these diminutive shrubs might be slow-growing, they will eventually prove very useful in your fight against weeds.

6. Hellebores

Hellebores are usually grown for their elegant winter and early spring flowers, but they can also be surprisingly effective at keeping weeds at bay. These shade-loving perennials produce large, leathery evergreen leaves that cover the soil for much of the year, helping to block light and reduce opportunities for weed seeds to germinate.

If weed suppression is your goal, plant hellebores in generous drifts rather than as individual specimens. As the plants mature, their foliage will knit together to form a canopy that shades the ground and limits unwanted growth, particularly in woodland-style borders and other shady corners.

There are many hellebore varieties and species to choose from, offering flowers in shades of white, pink, purple and near-black. Most perform best in US hardiness zones 4 to 8, often blooming through frost and snow when little else is in flower.

Why not consider learning how to propagate hellebores, increasing your plant collection for free by dividing established clumps?

Alternatively, hellebore plants are available to buy online from Amazon.

Preventing weeds from germinating is the best course of action in any yard, and all of these weed-suppressing plants will help to stop weeds from taking hold in your borders.

While weeds can be troublesome in any yard, remember that these plants are a valuable food source for pollinators such as birds and bees. If you can, consider leaving a small patch of ground where weeds can grow to attract hungry pollinators to your plot. For more information, see our guide on flowering weeds for pollinators.

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As spring and summer roll in, weeds seem to pop up out of nowhere, making the most of warm soil and those long, gentle evenings. I’m a big believer that some weeds can have their place – especially in wilder, more relaxed areas of the garden – but it’s perfectly reasonable not to want nettles and docks creeping among your peonies and roses.

I’ve spent more hours than I can count weeding borders over the years, and while it can be oddly satisfying at times, the reality often involves sore knees, a stiff back, and the occasional blister. Anything that lightens that load, even slightly, feels like a win. That’s where plants themselves can step in. Choosing the right varieties – particularly native plants to stop weeds – is a simple, effective way to reduce maintenance while still creating a beautiful, layered garden.

So whether you’re looking to fill bare patches or cut back on constant upkeep, these dense, clump-forming plants can do a surprising amount of the work for you. Here, a plant expert from Wisconsin shares five native species that not only help keep weeds at bay, but bring structure and interest to your borders, too.

5 Resilient Native Perennials to Keep Weeds at Bay

No matter where you garden – or what your US hardiness zone happens to be – planting tough, resilient native perennials is always a smart move. They’re naturally suited to local conditions, which means they settle in quickly, grow reliably, and generally demand far less fuss than many non-natives.

When it comes to keeping weeds under control, that local advantage really shines. Native perennials fill gaps efficiently, form dense clumps, and naturally outcompete problem plants before they even get a foothold. The result? A garden that feels full, balanced, and intentional – without you having to wage a constant battle against invasive weeds.

1. Rudbeckia

‘Black-eyed Susans, or rudbeckias, are a staple in gardens across North America,’ says Wisconsin-based plant expert Katie Sunderlage. ‘They’re tough, reliable perennials that add bright, cheerful color throughout the season.’

When it comes to growing rudbeckias, Katie explains, ‘They do well in a wide range of locations – even down to US hardiness zone 4. For the best blooms, give them at least six hours of full sun each day, and make sure the soil stays evenly moist but drains well.’

Native to eastern and central North America, rudbeckias naturally form dense clumps as they mature, which makes them excellent for crowding out weeds.

Katie recommends planting in early spring or fall so the roots have time to establish before the extremes of summer heat or winter cold. She also notes a bonus for wildlife lovers: leaving the seed heads intact over winter provides a valuable food source for native birds.

There are plenty of varieties to choose from, including the bright, long-flowering ‘Indian Summer’ rudbeckia, available from Burpee, which can make a stunning addition to any border or meadow-style planting.

2. Coneflower

‘Coneflowers, or echinaceas, are one of my favorite native ground cover plants to stop weeds,’ says Wisconsin-based plant expert Katie Sunderlage. ‘Their dense, clump-forming habit and natural ability to spread mean weeds rarely get a look-in when coneflowers are thriving.’

‘They’re tough little plants,’ Katie continues. ‘Coneflowers are hardy down to zone 3 and love full sun or part shade, ideally in dry, well-drained soil. When you first plant them, a deep soak once or twice a week is all they need to settle in. After that, they’re practically effortless.’

Once established, Katie points out, coneflowers are remarkably low-maintenance. ‘They shrug off heat and drought, making them perfect for both northern and southern gardens. And they reward you with weeks of blooms without demanding much attention.’

Part of their charm is their variety of colors. ‘From soft pinks and sunny yellows to crisp whites and bold oranges, there’s a coneflower to suit almost any garden scheme,’ Katie says.

For something a little eye-catching, she recommends the ‘Sombrero Adobe Orange' coneflowers, available as live plants from Burpee. ‘Their vibrant, zesty orange flowers really lift a summer border and make your garden feel alive.’

3. Verbena

‘Another great choice for ground cover plants to stop weeds is native verbenas,’ says Wisconsin-based plant expert Katie Sunderlage. ‘Blue vervain is lovely, but one of my favorites is Verbena canadensis, a low-growing perennial native to Eastern and Central North America.’

‘It’s a hardy little plant, surviving down to zone 5, and it won’t grow taller than about a foot,’ Katie explains. ‘What I love is that it flowers from early summer right through to fall, with delicate purple blooms that bring color and life to your borders.’

For best results, Katie recommends these fast-growing tiny flowers in full to part sun with evenly moist, well-drained soil. ‘Once it’s established, it’s practically fuss-free – no need for regular feeding, and it’s both drought- and heat-tolerant,’ she adds.

For gardeners looking to get started quickly, live Verbena canadensis starter plants are available on Amazon. They establish fast, forming dense, low-growing canopies that naturally suppress weeds while brightening up any garden space.

4. Blazing Star

Another standout tall perennial flower for keeping weeds in check is blazing star, or Liatris spicata, loved for its tall, elegant flower spikes that can reach up to six feet. It’s the kind of plant that adds instant structure to a border while quietly doing the hard work below.

Blazing star is both versatile and resilient, thriving across a wide range – from as far north as zone 3 to as far south as zone 9. In its natural habitat, it grows in open prairies and meadows, so the more sun you can give it, the better it will perform. With plenty of light, you’ll be rewarded with strong growth and those striking vertical blooms that draw the eye from across the garden.

When it comes to pruning blazing star, there’s no rush. You can cut blazing star back in fall or winter, but I tend to leave the flower spikes standing through the colder months. They add a bit of height and texture to an otherwise quiet garden, and catch the light beautifully on frosty mornings. Then, just before spring, cut everything back to the base to make way for fresh growth.

If you’re starting from scratch, blazing star seeds are easy to find online, including via Amazon, and will establish into bold, weed-suppressing plants that bring both structure and seasonal interest year after year.

5. Blue Grama

One of the best native grasses for keeping weeds in check has to be blue grama, or Bouteloua gracilis. It’s a familiar sight across the Great Plains and much of the Midwest, and for good reason – this is a plant that quietly delivers all year round and is a good ornamental grass for winter interest.

In spring and summer, it brings soft texture and movement to a border, but I think it really comes into its own in winter. Those distinctive, eyelash-like seedheads catch the light beautifully and add interest when much of the garden has faded, giving it real staying power through the colder months.

It’s also incredibly tough. Blue grama is hardy down to zone 3 and thrives in full sun, where it will gradually form dense, low-growing clumps. Once established, it needs very little water – even in the height of summer – and does an excellent job of crowding out opportunistic weeds like dandelions.

If you’re starting from seed, blue grama grass seed is easy to source online, including via Amazon, and is well worth adding if you’re looking for a low-maintenance, weed-suppressing grass that looks good in every season.

FAQs

What Are Good Native Perennials for Colder Regions, Including Zone 3 and 4?

If you’re gardening in a colder region, creeping phlox, or Phlox stolonifera, is a lovely native perennial to consider. You’ll often find it growing naturally in woodlands and along stream banks across the eastern United States, which gives you a good sense of how adaptable and resilient it can be.

It’s also refreshingly easy to grow. Give it a sunny spot – ideally with around six hours of light each day – and moist, fertile soil, and it will settle in happily. Even in colder areas, including zone 3 across parts of the northern Midwest and Northeast, this low-growing plant performs reliably year after year.

Once established, creeping phlox forms a soft, spreading carpet of foliage and spring flowers, making it perfect for filling gaps and gently suppressing weeds. If you’re looking to get started quickly, creeping phlox live plants are easy to find online, including from Amazon.

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Ground cover planting acts as a natural weed suppressant, and none will look better than hostas. As weeds are a perennial chore for gardeners, and we all spend much of our time removing them from flower beds or borders, would you consider using hostas to prevent weeds?

We focus on this particular plant as gardeners love growing hostas. They are one of the most popular foliage plants, and what makes them good at weed prevention is their large, overlapping leaves. They can form a dense canopy to block sunlight from reaching the soil, removing one of the key factors that weeds need to grow successfully.

It may be an unconventional way to keep weeds out of flower beds, but it offers an attractive way to stop them from growing in unwanted areas. However, it is not a magic shield that prevents all weeds from appearing. So let’s look at how to use hostas to prevent weeds; though it won’t stop everything, it can make a valuable difference.

How to Use Hostas to Prevent Weeds

Ground cover plants offer a valuable way to reduce the time you need to spend weeding beds and borders. Less bare soil means fewer opportunities for weeds to germinate and get established.

The advantages of hostas are that they can make low-maintenance ground cover plants. And, as one of the best shade plants, they can thrive where other alternatives may not, such as a darker corner or beneath a tree.

How It Works

Planting hostas is a sound way to establish an easy ground cover, as the plants form dense clumps and cast a large shade due to their foliage. Once the hosta clump matures, its overlapping leaves can almost completely cover the soil surface when the foliage fully opens in late spring.

‘The large leaves of hostas create a dense canopy that blocks sunlight, helping to prevent weed growth,’ claim the experts from Sienna Hosta. ‘This natural weed control reduces the need for chemical herbicides and saves gardeners time and effort.’

Michael Clarke, horticulturist and founder of Yardwork, says the ‘tight clumps’ that hostas form are crucial to preventing weeds from thriving.

‘Hosta leaves arch outward and downward, expanding outward year by year, leaving very little bare soil once established,’ he adds. ‘This clumping habit means fewer gaps for weeds to sneak through compared to upright or airy plants.’

How to Do It

Any aspirations to use hostas to prevent weeds efficiently depend on the type, the planting, and a few key maintenance tasks.

Before planting, whether you buy new plants or divide existing hostas to expand your collection, you must remove all existing weeds. Annuals can be quickly dealt with, but you must remove the complete roots of perennial weeds, such as dandelions, creeping buttercup, or ground elder.

An assumption can be that the best hostas for ground cover are the largest varieties. And that can indeed be the case, as large-leaved varieties like ‘Sum and Substance’, ‘Empress Wu’ (you can get an Empress Wu hosta at Burpee), and ‘Blue Angel’ (you can get a Blue Angel hosta at Nature Hills) all boast wide foliage that fills in quickly to suppress weeds.

However, the experts at Sienna Hosta suggest a different approach worth considering. They say: ‘Small and medium varieties like ‘Golden Tiara’, ‘June’, and ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ spread quickly and fill gaps effectively. Fast-spreading cultivars such as ‘Royal Standard’ and ‘Goldrush’ are ideal for covering large areas efficiently.’

Thankfully, there is a wide range of hostas in different colors, shapes, and sizes you can pick to add to flower beds, so you should be able to find a selection that fits any need or aesthetic.

Michael Clarke recommends planting the hostas in blocks and spacing them based on how big they’ll get when mature, rather than their current size. He advises: ‘For large hostas, it's best to space them 18–30 inches apart, while medium hostas should be spaced 12–18 inches apart.’

‘If you want fast weed control, plant them slightly closer than recommended so that they touch and overlap,’ he adds.

An important final task is to mulch around the hostas with a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch. This mulching layer not only keeps moisture in the soil but suppresses weed seeds from germinating.

The Limitations

Using hostas as ground cover will not completely prevent any weeds from appearing.

This is especially the case for the first few years, as the plants establish and the clump develops. It will take around two years for young hostas to expand into a lush carpet of foliage, and during this time, weeds will infiltrate the bare soil between the plants.

There is also an annual window when you will be susceptible to early-season weeds. Hostas are perennial plants, but they do die back each winter and start growing again come mid-to-late spring.

‘This means that for several months, your soil is bare, and it's going to be vulnerable to early-season weeds, ‘ says Gerardo Loayza, landscape design expert and founder of BACQYARD. ‘You can plant some spring bulbs in between the hostas to provide some early coverage.’

When you winterize hostas, spreading a thick layer of mulch around plants (you can get a box of long-leaf pine needles at Lowe’s to use around hostas) will limit the opportunities for weeds to establish during these months when the soil would otherwise sit bare.

To be truthful, there will always be some troublesome, aggressive weeds that will push through and need to be removed. But when they do appear, get rid of them quickly to stop them from spreading seeds.

To guarantee success with hostas, planting them in the right place is imperative. Plant them in shade and rich, well-draining soil, and hostas will thrive. Put them in too much sun, or in dry shade, and they will struggle.

To help you avoid making a mistake, this guide to places to never plant hostas reveals five of the worst locations you can put them, along with details of how plants may come to harm in these undesirable conditions.

It's mid-November and there's one thing lingering at the back of all gardener's minds: frost. Now is the time to get those final pre-frost tasks done to ensure your yard is prepared for the winter months. With time being so precious, you may be wondering if you actually need to get rid of weeds before frost, or will the coldest temps kill them off for you.

When it comes to the fall gardening checklist, you may be surprised to hear getting rid of weeds is actually something to prioritize. A common misconception is that hard frost will kill of weeds for good. In actual fact, many perennial weeds and annual weed seeds will overwinter and return as the temperatures warm up again in spring.

That's why senior horticulturist at Miracle-Gro, Amy Enfield, urges you to get weeding done before the first hard frost comes. Delaying this task until spring could cause weeds to come back bigger than before.

Do you need to get rid of weeds before frost?

'The simple answer is yes,' says Amy. 'In fact, fall weeding is one of a gardener's best-kept secrets. What you do in the fall can dictate how much work you will have to do in the spring,' she explains.

This is true for annual and perennial weeds alike.

'A hard frost will kill off tender, summer annual weeds like crabgrass or spurge, which is helpful. However, it does not kill all weeds. It has no effect on weed seeds already laying dormant in the soil, or the roots of perennial weeds,' Amy explains.

In fact, for seeds laying dormant, frost can cause seed stratification. This is an essential period of cold exposure, kickstarting growth come spring.

'Relying on frost to 'clean up' your garden is a recipe for a weed-filled spring,' Amy warns.

Which weeds do you need to get rid of before frost?

'The most important weeds to remove in the fall are the perennial ones,' says Amy. 'Think dandelions, thistle, bindweed, and couch grass.

'While frost might make their leaves and stems look dead or wilted, their root systems are very much alive. In fall, these plants are in storage mode, drawing energy from their leaves and sending it down to their roots to store for winter,' she explains.

That's why removing them before frost is a good idea. Using a weeder tool will pull them by the root, ensuring they don't come back – like this weed pulling tool from Amazon. It will become impossible to do this once the ground freezes, making the mild temperatures of early-mid fall a great opportunity to get rid of them.

'The other weed group to worry about is winter annuals,' says Amy. 'These are weeds like chickweed, bittercress, and purple deadnettle. Unlike summer weeds, their seeds are triggered to sprout by the cooling soil and shorter days of fall.

'They germinate in fall, grow into small, low-growing plants, and then sit dormant all winter. The moment the snow melts in early spring, they flower and set thousands of new seeds before you've even had a chance to plant your cool-weather flowers and veggies,' she explains.

Fall weeding tips

With so much to get done in fall, it can feel overwhelming to try to get rid of all the weeds in your yard. Amy has a three step approach to help you out:

'First, prioritize removing any weeds – even dead ones – that have a seed head,' she says. This will prevent self-seeding from happening.

'Second, for perennial weeds, you can hand-pull them when the ground is damp from a fall rain (this makes it much easier to get the entire root),' Amy says.

There are lots of weeding tools that can help you achieve this. Including this hand weeding fork from Amazon that allows you to use more force for tough weeds.

'Finally, once an area is clear, cover it with a two to three-inch layer of mulch,' Amy advises. 'This will help prevent any weed seeds, especially winter annual weeds, from getting the light they need to sprout,' she explains.

It's a form of smothering weeds, which can also be done using cardboard and coco coir mulching mats (from Amazon).

There are also plenty of fall mulching materials readily available in the yard at this time of year, including fallen leaves.

FAQs

Can you use weed killer before frost?

Yes, you can use weed killer before frost, but it is not the most eco-friendly choice for getting rid of weeds. This is because weed killers often contain harmful chemicals that can impact the biodiversity and wildlife in your yard. Instead, try manually removing weeds to prevent them coming back. You may also find that using herbicides in the wet weather of fall is less effective anyway because it can wash away.

When you're preparing to get rid of weeds before frost, our guide to how to kill weeds in the fall can help you tackle larger jobs with ease.

Weeding is a task us gardeners are relentlessly trying to keep on top of from spring to fall. In the haste of clearing up your garden beds, you might not realize you're coming into contact with poisonous weeds you should never touch bare-handed. Not being careful can lead you to skin irritation or more serious illness.

That's why taking a moment to identify plants when getting rid of weeds is so important. Many have saps and pollen that can cause rashes and sore reactions on your skin. When ingested, you can fall ill and experience more some extreme symptoms.

Just as there are poisonous plants that you must wash your hands after touching, it's important to handle poisonous weeds correctly. Here, are five to be aware of, plus tips on how to get rid of them safely.

5 poisonous weeds you should never touch

Alongside poisonous weeds, it's wise to familiar yourself with poisonous perennials, so you can make the right choices for the planting in your yard. This is especially true if you have pets and children running around.

Whenever dealing with these plants, especially poisonous weeds you should never touch bare-handed, make sure to wear hand protection and wash your hands afterwards:

1. Poison ivy

At the top of the list of poisonous weeds you should never touch bare-handed is poison ivy.

'Poison ivy occasionally grows at the edges of lawns and can cause skin irritation with even slight contact,' notes Ryan Walts from Lawn Squad.

You can also find poison ivy growing up shrubs and fences, as well as being a ground-spreading weed.

It's identifiable as having three-leaf stems and looks entirely different to the common ivy you might be more familiar wtih.

When getting rid of poison ivy, it's best practice to wear garden gloves with long sleeves (like these from Amazon), which protect your arms and hands. You should also wear close-toed shoes, and consider wearing safety goggles (like these from Walmart) if you choose to burn poison ivy to dispose of it.

2. Wild parsnsip

This is a weed that could trick you, as it produces beautiful clusters of dainty yellow flowers. However, wild parsnip is a poisonous weed you should never touch because its sap contains furanocoumarins, a chemical that makes your skin susceptible to ultraviolet burn.

Even just brushing past wild parsnip and getting its sap on your skin can lead to severe chemical burns, especially when exposed to sunlight. This is a reaction known as phytophotodermatitis.

It's therefore important to get rid of wild parsnip if you spot it growing in your yard. You can do so by wearing full coverage clothing and long-sleeved gardening gloves (like these from Walmart) .

Use essential pruning tools (like these loppers from Amazon) to cut down wild parsnip, which can reach a height of six feet. You should then use weeding tools that pull wild parsnip out of the ground by the root, like this long-handled weed puller tool from Amazon. This will help stop this weed returning and spreading.

3. Giant hogweed

Giant hogweed is an invasive weed that can reach an impressive height of 16 feet. Although it creates a dramatic display, if you do have giant hogweed in your yard, it's wise to consider removing it.

It's actually related to wild parsnip (both being part of the carrot family), so it isn't surprising to learn it also causes phytophotodermatitis – skin burns from the irritant sap.

If you have giant hogweed that has already reached many feet tall, it can be a good idea to enlist the help of professionals to remove it.

For smaller plants, take care to cover your eyes (with these goggles from Amazon), wear gardening gloves, and long gardening sleeves (from Amazon).

You should pull the weed up to remove the roots and dispose of it correctly according to local regulations – be aware you might not be able to just put it in your garden waste bin.

4. Pokeweed

With bright red stems and dark trussells of berries, it's easy to see why you might not realize pokeweed is a dangerous plant to have in your yard.

All parts of pokeweed are toxic: foliage, stems, roots, seeds, and berries. Touching it bare-handed leaves you at risk of ingesting its poisonous sap. Not only this, but this sap can be a skin irritant and cause rashes.

Luckily, you can get rid of pokeweed by using a garden fork (from Amazon) to tease its roots out of the ground. Make sure your skin is fully covered for this, including long trousers, like these black cargo trousers from Walmart.

This plant tends to have a very deep taproot, so consider weeding it after it has rained when the soil is damp and soft to work with.

5. Poison hemlock

The final plant on our list of poisonous weeds you should never touch bare-handed is poison hemlock.

With clusters of small white flowers and fern-like foliage, poison hemlock shouldn't be touched without gloves because it produces toxins that can enter your bloodstream and cause poisoning, as well as its toxins being skin irritant.

The toxins of this weed an even become airborne with inhaling and ingesting leading to anything from respiratory failure to hemlock poisoning, a condition that can end fatally.

That's why it's key to get rid of poison hemlock as soon as you spot it. The best way to do this is by digging it out with its roots intact. Use a shovel (from Amazon) to do this, and wear a facemask (alongside other protective wear) to prevent inhaling toxins.

You can find heavy-duty facemasks at Walmart, as well as a pack of disposable facemasks from Walmart.

FAQs

What should you do if you've touched a poisonous weed?

If you've come into contact with a poisonous weed, immediately wash the affected area of your skin. You should also take care to clean underneath your fingernails and clean any tools or clothing that may be contaminated. If you experience a reaction or feel ill from touching a poisonous weed, seek medical advice from a professional.

Take care when handling poisonous and toxic weeds. If you're struggling to identify a weed in your yard, it's best to seek professional help to keep yourself safe from potential contact with poisonous plants.

Don't forget to do some research around weeder types, too, to ensure you're using the best option for the type of weed you're dealing with.

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If your garden is being plagued by an onslaught of weeds, and you head to the internet for advice, you will often be met with the trite saying 'a weed is simply a plant in the wrong place,' and although slightly annoying advice, it has a lot of truth to it. Weeding organically is not just a more ecologically sustainable approach, but one that is, simply put, far better for your garden. This is little compensation, however, if a weed issue is getting out of control and nothing you use actually works.

So, how to get rid of weeds once and for all? If you are wondering if your household bleach could finally put an end to the war of the weeds in your garden, then you may have stumbled across advice online to mix bleach with water and spray it on your weeds to kill them once and for all. Well, yes. Bleach does kill weeds. In fact, it kills most things, since it is toxic to all living things. But the collateral damage of using bleach in your garden is immeasurable, often beyond repair.

Here is why you should never, ever, use bleach on your weeds and what you should do instead.

Does bleach kill weeds?

Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is highly corrosive and toxic to all plants and microorganisms, even in extremely small doses.

So far, so bad. But to those gardeners haunted by an interminable invasion of weeds, this might sound like just the ticket to controlling unwanted vegetation.

The short answer is yes, bleach breaks down all organic material in its wake, and even the sturdiest of weeds will not survive a biocide like bleach.

Though you must ask yourself, at what cost?

What are the risks of using bleach to kill weeds?

Bleach is indiscriminate when it comes to killing organic matter. Yes, it will kill weeds, and do so very quickly and effectively, but it will also kill many other things in its wake, too.

Sodium hypochlorite dramatically alters the soil pH and wipes out the beneficial microorganisms that live in the soil. These microorganisms are crucial for the soil health in your garden, since they not only improve the physical structure of the soil, but they also release vital nutrients into the soil, which feed your plants.

Into the grave with the weeds go these beneficial microorganisms, leaving your soil, which essentially serves as a food resource for your beloved plants, decimated and empty. The knock-on effects of using bleach to kill weeds can be seen in the terrible state of your garden plants for several seasons.

If you use bleach to kill weeds on pathways, driveways, and patios, you run the risk of long-term surface damage, potentially costing thousands to replace.

The runoff of bleach, even in very small quantities, can make its way into water systems, too, and since bleach kills all aquatic life, the unintended ecological effects of using bleach to kill weeds can be disastrous.

So, even if it might be tempting to unleash the bleach, the memo is clear: bleach does not belong anywhere near outdoor spaces.

Instead, you can learn how to make weed killer from other inexpensive household items, for example, using salt to kill weeds works impressively well, or using vinegar to kill weeds mixed with some regular soap (I use pure castile soap available at Amazon), and it works tremendously well on those vexing little weeds in the cracks in paving.

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It's always worth bearing in mind, too, that many plants actually stop the weeds from taking hold in the first place.

In areas where weeds are causing a nuisance, it's worth planting some plants to stop weeds, as well as ground cover plants, which will smother weeds and stop them from establishing.

Equisetum arvense, commonly called field horsetail or common horsetail, has been around for hundreds of millions of years. You can’t help but admire the longevity of this survivor from Jurassic times, but the traits that have benefited it for millennia make it difficult to eradicate from a garden.

There is no shying away from the truth that this perennial weed can be a nightmare in gardens. It spreads quickly and is incredibly tough to get rid of. Prepare yourself that it will take several years to get rid of horsetail from your yard, while large infestations may never be completely eradicated.

Unfortunately, the usual methods for getting rid of weeds don’t apply to horsetail. There are no quick fixes; you can’t just dig or spray to get rid of horsetail. It takes time, patience, and perseverance, but it can be possible. I spoke to gardening and invasive plant experts to discover their recommended methods of getting rid of horsetail.

What is weed horsetail – and how to spot it

Horsetail produces two different types of stems. In spring, it develops light brown, leafless stems about 12 inches tall that look like toadstools. These shoots produce spores, which spread by wind and can travel long distances. These stems die back after releasing their spores.

The summer growth is taller, reaching up to two feet tall, and greener. It resembles small conifers, with the stems and needles resembling a bottle brush. Under the surface, horsetail develops an extensive system of underground rhizomes. Horsetail spreads by both spores and rhizomes, but it is the latter that causes the most problems.

The rhizomes spread quickly and deeply into the soil, making it a difficult weed to get out of a flower bed once it enters. They can tangle with other plant roots and can regenerate from even the smallest of sections, meaning if you try to weed a garden quickly and dig out horsetail in a hurry, any piece left will resprout into a new plant.

How to get rid of horsetail – 5 DIY methods

It may all sound doom and gloom, but there are ways to control and get rid of horsetail. They don’t provide instant results, but the following can weaken the weed and even eradicate it over time.

1. Dig it up

While this is no simple job, digging out as much as you can and repeatedly doing it will weaken the plant. It is hard work, but digging is the best chemical-free way to tackle the issue.

The problem is the depth of the field horsetail’s root system, which can reach well below the surface. And any fragment of the rhizomes left in the soil sprouts to form new plants.

If you want to get rid of horsetail completely, then you need to dig deeply. As Trent Brown from Ground Break Designs says: 'The best way to remove it for an extended period is a complete soil replacement, about 24” down. Horsetail hates well-drained, neutral soils, so removing as much of the rhizome system as possible and replacing it with good soil will help.'

If a full excavation and soil replacement programme seems too daunting, removing clumps gradually over time might be a more practical way to manage a field horsetail problem.

2. Cover it

To control horsetail, covering and smothering the troublesome weed can suppress its growth – but this method needs to be done in conjunction with monitoring and action. You cannot simply place mulching materials over the field horsetail and consider it a job done.

'You can use barrier methods like landscape fabric, or thick cardboard, plus mulch to cut off light,' claims Trent Brown. 'For shoots that still pop through, consistent cutting or pulling is key. Each time you remove green growth, you’re starving the underground rhizomes of energy.

'However, it is very, very important to continue with the cutting and pulling as soon as you see new growth. Remember that the plant compensates by sending up more shoots than the one you pulled. But over time, maybe 2–3 seasons, the plant weakens.'

Use thick weed-resistant matting to eradicate light, like this heavy-duty and durable weed control fabric at Amazon, or place down thick cardboard for weed control, which you can cover with different types of mulch, such as bark or wood chippings. The mulch will need to be topped up regularly, every few years.

3. Shade it with tall plants

To weaken the horsetail, consider shading it out by planting densely around it and filling any areas it may invade.

'When thinking of preventative steps, think in terms of soil health and competing plants. Keep soil well-drained and avoid overwatering,' adds Trent. 'Plant dense ground cover plants, shrubs, or turfgrass so there’s no bare ground for horsetail to exploit.'

The invasive plant thrives in sunny areas, so planting taller evergreen shrubs, perennials, and ferns that will block the sun can cause the horsetail to weaken as it grows in dense shade. This tactic, along with regular monitoring and removal of shoots, can help to get rid of horsetail in areas of the yard.

To prevent field horsetail from spreading into other areas of the garden, consider installing deep garden edging barriers to keep rhizomes from creeping back into your garden beds

4. Burn it

Regularly using a weed burner on the shoots continually weakens the plant and can be part of a long-term strategy to get rid of horsetail.

A flame weeder can be an efficient way to kill weeds, as it generates a flame to direct at the weeds and destroy them. This method only kills the above-ground shoots, and the horsetail will come back, but repeatedly burning shoots will weaken the horsetail’s rhizome over a few years.

Where the horsetail is growing is one factor that might limit the usage of a flame weeder. The device is ideally suited to removing weeds from pavers or killing weeds in gravel, but if the horsetail is in the middle of a flower bed surrounded by precious plants, a flame weeder may risk affecting other plants.

This propane torch flame weeder at Amazon features a 30-inch nozzle and it self-ignites at the touch of a button. The device also has a wide nozzle head, and you can adjust the size of the flame.

5. Pull it regularly

This tactic is essential if you have any aspirations of getting rid of horsetail. Any new shoots you see are best removed to stop the plant from spreading. There will be no immediate reduction, and it may seem futile at times, but keeping on top of new growth can be part of a way to manage field horsetail.

'It’s very important to keep consistent with any cutting or pulling of shoots, to help diminish the root system,' advises Trent. 'With consistent cutting, soil improvements, barriers, and healthy competition from other plants, it’s possible to reduce it to a manageable level over a few seasons.'

Cut horsetail stems should be properly disposed of and never added to your compost, as this will spread the weed.

How to get rid of horsetail – What professionals can do

Spraying weedkiller isn’t a quick and simple fix for horsetail, and should be done by professionals for the best results. Due to the plant’s extensive rhizomes, it will require several treatments, even over several years, to get rid of horsetail.

'Herbicide application at the right time of the year, and applied by trained professionals, is an effective method of control,' says Jennifer Holmes from Environment Controls, experts in the removal of invasive plants.

'To use an approved herbicide to treat horsetail requires specialist knowledge, and treatment should involve multiple applications at the optimum time of year.'

'Horsetail has a waxy surface that can resist many herbicides and makes it tough for sprays to penetrate,' adds Trent Brown. 'For better absorption, crushing or bruising the stems before applying a weedkiller can improve results.'

FAQs

Does mowing spread horsetail?

If you have horsetail in your lawn, mowing will not spread the problem. In reality, regular mowing helps to control the horsetail. Mowing will not affect the root system, but it will stop the horsetail spreading.

Does lime get rid of horsetail?

It is an old garden tale that applying lime to the soil can get rid of horsetail. Unfortunately, this myth has been debunked in recent years. As horsetail has been shown to thrive in a range of conditions, raising the pH of the soil by adding lime is not a secret hack to getting rid of horsetail. When answering a question on said topic, Rebecca Long from the University of Maine Cooperative Extension said: 'If you raised the pH high enough to be totally inhospitable for horsetail, it would likely be unsuitable for most plants.'

Horsetail can provide food and habitat as part of a wildlife garden, and its slender stems and vibrant feathery foliage can make an attractive addition to a space. It can sometimes lead to gardeners opting to control it, rather than focus attention on ways to get rid of horsetail.

'In highly infested areas, complete eradication is nearly impossible,' says Trent. 'The key is deciding whether it’s worth the fight. Some homeowners choose to live with it, blending it into naturalized plantings of ornamental grasses and perennials.

'I don’t find horsetail itself a particularly ugly plant, but it is aggressive. If I can design a more naturalized garden to draw attention away from the weed, then I recommend that option often,' he adds. 'Other homeowners are committed to the long battle of suppression.

'Either way, control and coexistence are often the most realistic strategies when it comes to Equisetum.'

I moved home earlier this year and was delighted to finally have a large lawn. The one thing I was less pleased about? The weedy nature of it. There were classic dandelions and nettles, but also some more vigorous offenders: vine lawn weeds.

The first thing I did when getting rid of these weeds was identify them. Vines, or rather creepers, have a habit of crawling along your lawn, eventually taking over large patches of it and leaving the grass below to suffocate and die. Diagnosing exactly what they are allowed me to take effective action in removing and killing these weeds but not my grass.

The only problem is there are several kinds of vine lawn weeds, and often you need slightly different methods to remove them. So, to help you out, I have compiled a quick guide here about three of the most common types and how to get rid of them.

3 common vine lawn weeds

Vine lawn weeds aren't the only kind to crop up among your grass. You may also have white flowering weeds, like clover, and may wish to learn how to get rid of dandelions. Although, many flowering weeds are excellent resources for pollinators, so consider leaving a patch of your lawn to grow wild for them.

Having said that, if your vine lawn weeds problem is taking over your grass like mine did, keep reading:

1. Ground ivy

If the vine lawn weeds in your yard have scalloped leaves, spread quickly, and have tiny little purple flowers in spring, you likely have the same issue I did: ground ivy.

It's also known as creeping Charlie, as this creeper grows rapidly across large areas. In my yard, it was particularly prominent in the shadier spots, as it's a ground cover plant for shade that thrives in moisture.

Unfortunately, getting rid of creeping Charlie permanently is not a quick or easy task. However, I have found that regular weeding helps reduce its rapid growth.

It's a weed with very shallow roots, so it can very easily be pulled up. Because of its density, I employ the use of a hand rake (like this one from Amazon) to efficiently pull up the vines. They come away easily, and I ensure the roots are coming up with it to reduce the chances of regrowth.

Other options include making a weed killer to get rid of ground ivy. One effective recipe is apple cider vinegar (from Amazon), salt, and soap, all of which burn and dehydrate the creeper.

I am now also improving my lawn care to make it a less favorable environment for ground ivy to grow. This includes aerating my lawn (with an aerator tool, like this from Amazon) , to improve drainage.

2. Field bindweed

This is another common vine lawn weed, and one I have also spotted in my yard. Bindweed refers to two plants: field bindweed (the one that sprawls along the ground) and hedge bindweed (the one that can grow vertically, often up shrubs).

Bindweed can be deceiving because it has attractive funnel-shaped white or pink flowers. But, leave field bindweed to grow and it can dominate your garden and smother plants.

It's a common weed to find in the US and requires careful action to get rid of it entirely. It can tolerate drought, poor soil types, and partial shade, though it grows more vigorously in sun.

The best action to take is digging it up (using weeding tools, like this weed puller from Amazon), and mulching to smother it.

3. Creeping buttercup

This is a vine lawn weed identifiable as yellow buttercup flowers. Unlike the clumps of buttercups that crop up randomly on a lawn, creeping buttercup is a low-growing, spreading plant.

It grows most vigorously in moist, poorly drained, and compact soils, and tolerates anything from partial shade to full sun.

Regularly mowing your lawn can help manage this weed, but manual removal is the best way to get rid of it. It would be a weeding mistake to let creeping buttercup take over your entire lawn, as it would leave you with brown, smothered grass.

Promoting thicker grass can also help stop the spread of creeping buttercup. Do this by improving drainage, raising your mower height, and fertilizing your lawn (such as with this Miracle-Gro lawn feed from Amazon).

FAQs

Do vine lawn weeds make grass brown?

Yes, vine lawn weeds can make grass turn brown where it smothers it. That's why you should work to repair patches in grass once you remove the weeds. You can do this by aerating, improving drainage, and sowing new lawn grass seed (from Burpee).

Sometimes the source of vine lawn weeds aren't even in your yard. They can creep beneath and through fence panels. If this is the case, you might find our guide on how to stop your neighbor's weeds from invading your yard useful.

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Evergreens are so often overlooked as the green supporting shrubs that prop up our more glamorous summer stars. And, sure, we all love a bit of floral drama. Ammi, verbascum, phlox and foxgloves will always demand more attention than a dark green yew dome. But in my years as a professional gardener, I’ve come to admire the quiet persistence of evergreens, especially when it comes to weed suppression.

Take prostrate rosemary or creeping juniper, both of which I’ve grown in public and private gardens across London. These evergreens are spreaders, producing a dense covering, and so doing a pretty good job of limiting wind-blown weed seeds from taking root.

So yes, I think these dense evergreens to stop weeds deserve a bit more credit. Are they foolproof? Of course not. A dandelion will always find a way. But that’s fine. This is about balance, not absolutism or perfection. Let the evergreens do the heavy lifting, and you can tinker with the remaining weeds if you so choose. Here are five of the best evergreen plants to stop weeds that I have grown, including tips on shaping and aftercare.

5 best evergreens to stop weeds

Wherever you live and whatever your US hardiness zone, you are bound to find several unwanted or unwelcome plants that always seem to find a way of germinating and growing.

So, if you are wondering how to stop your neighbors' weeds from invading your yard, or you want to take action this year to keep weeds out of flowerbeds, try growing one or more of these dense evergreens to stop weeds.

1. Illicium

If you are looking for native plants to stop weeds, try growing Illicium, a North American species that can help to fill flowerbeds with lush, dense foliage.

Of the native plant options, two really stand out to me. One is Illicium parviflorum 'Forest Green', which has unique pale lemon flowers, and will bloom in part-shade down to zone 7.

Live Illicium 'Forest Green' starter plants are available from Amazon.

The other is Illicium flodidanum, otherwise known as Florida anise. This evergreen shrub has leathery leaves and deep crimson spider-like blooms that can be seen in the image above.

'The maroon blooms as well as the fragrant, anise-scented foliage make Florida anise a valuable native,' says Lilly Anderson-Messec, plant expert and Director of North Florida programs for the Florida Native Plant Society.

Growing best from zone 7 or zone 8 plus, 'Florida Anise prefers dappled shade or partial sun,' Lilly says, 'but will grow fine in full shade, with a looser shape and possibly fewer flowers.'

They can grow to 10 feet or so in height and width, but generally, in backyard settings, they can be managed to maintain a compact, dense appearance that will fill borders and help prevent weeds from growing nearby.

'Unfortunately, the fruit of Florida anise is toxic if ingested,' Lilly adds, 'and cannot be used culinarily, so keep an eye on pets and children playing outside.'

Live Florida anise starter plants can be ordered now via Walmart.

2. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster are a family of woody plants native to various regions in Asia, Europe, and North Africa.

While it will depend on the species, many are incredibly tough and can be grown as low as US hardiness zone 3.

They are some of the best evergreen shrubs that thrive on neglect, with little care needed so long as the soil and lighting requirements are met.

Cotoneaster shrubs tend to do best in full sun to dappled shade, and while they will grow in dry soil, for the best result, grow them in moist beds.

When happy, these are some of the best shrubs with winter berries, helping to add color and impact to borders in the depths of winter.

And, the best part? With a dense spread, this shrub will help to crowd out tricky and challenging borders, thereby reducing opportunities for weed growth.

For a low-growing evergreen option that will prove effective for weed suppression, try this 'Cranberry Cotoneaster' variety, with live plants available from Nature Hills.

3. Yew

'One of the best evergreens to stop weeds is yew,' says Alex Kantor, owner of Perfect Plants Nursery.

For one of the easiest evergreen shrubs, try this spreading yew, available from Perfect Plants, for a weed-suppressing green carpet in your yard.

'If you are landscaping with evergreens this year, then this hard-working, reliable and dense shrub is one to grow,' Alex continues. 'They aren't fussy, and will tolerate both full sun and deep shade.'

Yew, or Taxus, can be grown down to zone 4, and is one of the best plants for topiary, responding well to regular pruning, usually in late summer or early fall to maintain the desired form.

Yew domes are available to order from Walmart.

4. Inkberry

Inkberry holly, or Ilex glabra, is often used as a boxwood alternative, valued for its smooth, waxy evergreen leaves that will form dense canopies in garden beds.

Live inkberry plants can be ordered online via Amazon.

And, not only is this shrub good for providing year-round coverage and limiting weed growth, it is also remarkably resistant to pest attack, and is not typically munched by rabbits or deer.

Inkberry shrubs are also some of the best native ground cover plants to stop weeds, found growing in the wild along the eastern and southeastern United States, from Florida northward to Maine, growing best from zone 5 to zone 10.

In terms of placement, they can tolerate dappled shade as well as full sun. And, when considering maintenance, I would advise trimming lightly once a year in early spring, before new growth develops, which will help to keep the crown dense and limit bare soil and space for any wandering weeds.

For pruning your evergreens, I can highly recommend these Felco F-6 pruners, available to order from Walmart.

I have used Felco brand products on multiple occasions, and these long-lasting, high-performing pruners are well worth the hype.

5. Arborvitae

Arborvitae, otherwise known as thuja, is another one of the easiest evergreen trees and shrubs that can be used to limit weed growth in backyards.

These dense evergreens can be grown from zone 5 to zone 9, with a preference for full sun to part shade and well-draining soil.

Many varieties, including the infamous 'Green Giant', can grow upwards of 40 or even 50 feet, but choosing a more compact shrub-like variety is probably a better idea for most of us.

For example, this 'Fire Chief' thuja, with live plants available from Fast Growing Trees, will grow no taller than four feet and displays impressive spring and fall foliage.

And, with a dense habit, it is ideal for filling beds with lush greenery and keeping nettles and docks at bay.

FAQs

Is nandina one of the best evergreens to stop weeds?

Yes, nandina, or heavenly bamboo, can be grown in borders to limit weed growth. However, this vigorous evergreen is considered invasive in Texas and Florida, a result of its vigorous and spreading habit.

So, approach with caution, and consult your local government office to understand whether it is suitable for your region.

For small gardens, try growing a dwarf evergreen nandina variety, like 'Firepower', which will grow no taller than two or three feet.

'Firepower' live plants are available from Perfect Plants Nursery.

Whatever species you opt to grow, be sure to give a good, deep watering following planting, which will help to give them the best start during their first summer.

Following this, once your plants are established, many of these options will become self-sufficient, save for a little watering during dry spells.

For more information and ideas, see our guide on some of the best native perennials to stop weeds.

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If you’re anything like me, you head out into the yard thinking, I’ll just do a quick five minutes of weeding. But 45 minutes later you emerge from the flowerbeds, knees creaking and back cracking. Gardeners have always struggled with joint pain, which is exactly why I’ve become slightly obsessed with long-handled weeding tools.

There’s one model I see on bestseller lists again and again: Grampa’s Weeder, available now via Amazon. Not only does it have a brilliant name, but this heritage tool (that has been around since 1913) has deservedly earned a bit of a cult following. What's more, over 75% of its Amazon reviews are five stars, which is impressive by any standard.

The best part? It’s gloriously simple. No crouching, no twisting, no back-breaking toil. Just a sturdy, clever design that actually works. It’s perfect for tackling dandelions, docks, thistles and other deep-rooted plants. Here, not only is this weeder type explained, but I also take a look at what the reviews have to say.

What are people saying about Grampa's Weeder?

Gardeners love this product, and not just for the nostalgic name. Many say they wish they’d found it sooner to get rid of weeds, especially those dealing with joint pain. And, for under $34, it is a smart investment that will last.

One Amazon reviewer stated that Grampa's Weeder is a 'dummy-proof tool that anyone can use' when dealing with invasive weeds.

Another reviewer, writing in June 2025, commented how impressed they were 'with this simple, yet very effective garden weeding tool,' going on to say that it 'prevents accidental hacking of the plants and flowers you want to keep,' instead targeting problem plants effectively without 'cutting the weeds in half.'

However, one four-star review, recorded in May 2025, stated that whilst 'this tool is very effective for long-term removal of small new growth dandelions with short taproots', it is 'not sufficient for long-term dandelion removal of large, established clumps.'

So, while there is a lot of praise for this product, it might not always be 100% effective in eradicating deep tap-roots, which may require a different approach, such as teasing the soil with a garden fork.

I really like the look of this highly-rated wooden garden fork from Ace Hardware, available via Walmart, which can be used to loosen soil and gently lift problem weeds, too.

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How to use a long-handled weeder

Grampa’s Weeder is an essential gardening tool for those with back or knee pain. It is designed with a long wooden handle that measures 45 inches to prevent any bending over or crouching down.

At the base of this pole, there is a clever claw-like metal head. You position this claw mechanism over the base of the weed, pushing it down into the soil with your foot, then tilt the handle back.

The claws close around the root as you lever it out of the soil (hopefully with the stem and root still intact).

Clean, quick and weirdly satisfying, as it avoids the common weeding mistake of snapping the tap-root. It really is that simple.

FAQs

Can I use Grampa's weeder on compacted soil or lawns?

Yes, although as is the case for all weeding, in my experience at least, moist, reasonably wet soil is best. If the ground is rock-hard or bone dry, as might be the case in warm US hardiness zones, you may want to wait until after a downpour to prevent any snapping of tap-roots, which is far more likely in dry soil.

If you are looking for natural solutions to prevent opportunistic dandelions from germinating in your plot, have you considered growing some native plants to stop weeds?

Think creeping phlox or yarrow, which will, over time, form dense clumps and reduce weed growth. Our guide on North American species has more information and ideas to try out this year.

I moved home earlier this year and was pleased to be inheriting a large lawn. I was less delighted, however, to discover just how weedy it is. From dandelions to nettles, and a few different white flowering weeds.

I'll be the first to say that many common weeds that have flowers are beautiful in their on way. However, they can become a nuisance when they start to take over your lawn, disturbing an otherwise pristine green carpet.

The good news is, I've found it fairly easy to kill weeds but not grass. To be successful in your efforts, you do need to know what the white flower weeds on your lawn are. And if you plan to embrace them rather than get rid of them, knowing what they are can provide more clarity. So, I've put together a list of five common white flowering weeds and some tips on what to do if you do want to rid them of your lawn.

5 common white flower lawn weeds

While many gardeners are keen to quickly get rid of weeds, there is also an importance in pausing and rethinking weeds. I will often choose to leave some flowering weeds for pollinators, as they provide plenty of nectar for these beneficial insects. Nevertheless, they can become a problem when they grow invasively and take over, competing for nutrients with your more desired planting.

To help you identify white flower weeds on your lawn, I've outlined five common types:

1. White clover

White clover (Trifolium repens) is one of the most common lawn weeds to spot. They're compact and have spherical white flower heads.

There are actually lots of benefits of growing clover, including how it helps improve soil structure. Its deep root system helps aerate compacted soil, for example.

It's for this reason, many actually choose to grow a clover lawn – a low-maintenance alternative to grass that will cut down mowing.

This is one of the white flower weeds I found on my lawn and it was covering quite a large space, so I wasn't keen to keep it. That's why I took on methods to get rid of clover in a lawn.

The most effective is removing clover by hand, ensuring you dig up roots to avoid them returning. I use this hand weeding tool from Amazon, which I find glides easily into soil to lift roots.

Be aware that clover self-seeds quickly, so it's a matter of keeping on top of this task as clovers appear.

2. Chickweed

Chickweed is often less welcome on the list of white flower weeds on your lawn. It's even considered an invasive weed across the US, too.

Chickweed is identifiable by its small white, star-shaped flowers and bright green, oval-shaped foliage. It is also has a mat-like growing habit, which is why it can become a nuisance on lawns.

To get rid of chickweed, you can remove it by hand or smother weeds with mulch, a tarp (from Amazon), or you can use cardboard for weed control.

3. Common daisy

I have lots of common daisies (Bellis perennis) on my lawn, but this is a white flower weed I don't mind having. There's a sense of a nostalgia garden daises bring, with a reminder of childhood.

They spread both via seed and rhizomes underground, so it's common to have a daisy meadow on a lawn.

If you aren't so keen to keep daisies around, though, one of the easiest ways to remove them is by keeping on top of lawn care and mowing your lawn.

Regularly fertilizing our lawn and improving the health of your grass (such as aerating using this aerator tool from Amazon) can also help reduce the number of daises that come back. This is because as your grass grows stronger, it will outcompete the daisies.

4. Yarrow

You might mistake yarrow (Achillea millefolium) for an umbellifer, but it is actually part of the daisy family.

Many gardeners choose to grow common yarrow for it's clusters of delicate blooms, a great addition to cottage garden planting.

But, if not maintained, yarrow can spread and grow amongst your lawn in quite dense patches.

So, if you're eager to get rid of unwanted yarrow, you can get rid of it by manually pulling it up. Because this weed is much more robust than other white flower weeds on your lawn, you may want to employ the help of essential gardening tools.

For example, this weed puller tool from Amazon is designed to provide a firm grip to pull up weeds by the root.

You may find that some yarrow foliage has stayed behind after doing so. In this case, try raking it to loosen it before mowing it away.

5. Hairy bittercress

If you have white flower weeds on your lawn with rosette, hairy leaves, small white flowers, and seed pods that are explosive when disturbed, it's likely you're facing hair bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta).

As its name indicates, this is an edible weed, related to cress. It has a peppery, cress-like flavor and can be used as a garnish or in salads.

Due to the way its seed pods explode, it's no wonder this weed can crop up in lawns unexpectedly.

To get rid of hairy bittercress, it's best to manually remove them before they have a chance to go to seed. Of course, this requires fast action to be effective. A weeding fork tool (from Amazon) is an effective choice for this weed.

When you remove it, consider keeping some of the leaves to use in the kitchen. You can store them alongside other salad crops in your fridge.

FAQs

Are lawn weeds harmful to pets?

Some common lawn weeds are harmful to pets, but not all of them. Some toxic weeds include buttercups, ragwort, and bracken fern which can be harmful pets when ingested and may cause a skin reaction when touched. The best thing to do is identify the weeds growing in your lawn and research whether they pose a threat to your pets. You can then remove them accordingly to make your lawn a safer environment for your pets to explore.

There are a few DIY lawn weed solutions you can try on all of the above white flower weeds. For example, try making weed killer with baking soda or even use salt to kill weeds. If you're left with any brown patches after dealing with lawn weeds, try using this fast-growing lawn patch seed from Amazon to repair it.

June is a prominent time for weeds to let loose in our yards. The warmer months encourage weeds to bloom, spread, and take over spaces where they're unwelcome. One of the most unique weeds catching the attention of gardeners in the southern US states in particular is shameplant, or Mimosa pudica.

Believed to have originated in Brazil, this rapidly spreading, low-growing plant can be found in Central and South America, identifiable by its feathery foliage and pink pincushion blooms. Something particularly interesting about this plant is its response to being touched. Its leaves curl inward, earning it other common names of 'sensitive plant' and 'touch-me-not.' But, while it is beautiful in its own way, you might be seeking to get rid of weeds like shameplant if they're starting to takeover an area of your yard and competing with native plants for nutrients.

The good news is, it is possible to get rid of shameplant and control it, but it isn't always the easiest thing to do. Here, we take a look at effective methods to stop this creeping weed growing any further.

How to get rid of shameplant

Before jumping in with how to get rid of shameplant, it's worth noting some gardeners in milder climates actually choose to grow it for its curious nature and appearance. Its blooms have a similar appeal to scabiosa and buttonbush, while its foliage brings an instant tropical garden feel to the yard.

However, in some regions this plant has an invasive habit, especially in US hardiness zones 10+ where humidity levels are higher. In this climate, you'll likely be seeking for answers to get rid of shameplant, or at least how to control it.

Expert tips to get rid of shameplant

There are a few reasons why shameplant can be tricky to get rid of. This includes the fact it produces a lot of seeds which rapidly spread via wind, rain, and wildlife. It also can grow in very poor soil types.

But, this isn't to say you can't get rid of shameplant in your yard entirely, it just requires some effort and persistence.

'One of the most effective methods to get rid of any invasive weed is to pull it up by the roots,' says Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor, Drew Swainston. 'This is especially true for plants like shameplant which can regrow from its roots. Making sure the root system is removed lessens the chance of re-emergence,' he explains.

This method to get rid of shameplant is easier to do while the plant is young and not established. You can use essential gardening tools, like this shovel from Amazon, to dig the plant up, keeping roots intact.

'I find this weed pulling tool from Amazon particularly useful for this sort of task. It grabs weeds and aids efforts to pull roots up from the ground,' Drew suggests.

Another method to employ is smothering shameplant, which can work well thanks to its creeping habit. There are a few ways to do this, such as using cardboard for weed control, mulching, or using a weed tarp (from Amazon).

Smothering essentially blocks sunlight from weeds, stunting their growth. This is a good option if shameplant is covering a large area in your yard.

Of course, you can also control the spread of shameplant by manually removing seedpods. These can be identified as long, brown, fuzzy pods growing on the plant. Remove them by hand or with essential pruning tools (like these shears from Amazon).

No matter which method you use to get rid of shameplant, the key to removing it entirely is being vigilant. Reoccurrence is common with this weed, so it's likely you'll need to use multiple methods repeatedly until the whole plant is gone.

FAQs

Can I just cut back shameplant to control it?

You can cut back shameplant to control its size and spread, but this won't get rid of it entirely. These plants have vigorous growth and will regrow when cut back. However, cutting shameplant back before it goes it seed is an effective way to stop it spreading so widely in your yard. This control measure requires regular monitoring and trimming, which is why many gardeners choose to get rid of shameplant altogether.

It's no doubt getting rid of shameplant requires some effort and can be time-consuming, but employing these methods is the best way to remove it from your yard entirely. You can also make weed killer to help get rid of this unwelcome plant. In particular, vinegar kills weeds like shameplant well, just like boiling water kills weeds.

Weeding essentials for your yard

Last week at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show 2025, I was once again wowed by the hundreds of fabulous plants and garden ideas on display. One nursery that gave me some food for thought was Kent Wildflower Seeds, whose display celebrated the beauty of mixing wildflowers with cultivated perennials.

This isn't a common way to create a wildflower garden, but I have to say Kent Wildflower Seeds' Gold Medal-winning floral display at Chelsea was breathtaking – true cottage garden galore. It integrated wildflower favorites like poppies and meadow buttercups with perennial staples like briar roses and honeysuckle, and the result was an abundant display that brought the countryside landscape into the garden.

It's a beautiful idea that sparks some rethinking about wildflowers, much the same as gardeners have been increasingly rethinking weeds. Here, Charlotte Denne of family-owned nursery Kent Wildflower Seeds explains why the segregation of wildflowers and cultivated perennials should be stopped and how 'if you treat wildflowers in the way you treat the perennials in your garden, then they will respond in kind.'

Can I plant wildflowers with perennials?

There are a few reasons why many gardeners avoid planting wildflowers in borders and flower beds alongside their reliable perennials. The most obvious being, wildflowers are technically 'weeds' that can self-seed and take over a space if not managed, competing with perennials over nutrients and other resources.

However, Kent Wildflower Seeds' Charlotte Denne says it's just a case of approaching these plants differently in order to plant wildflowers and perennials together harmoniously.

Tend to wildflowers as you would perennials

When planting a wildflower meadow or patch in your yard, you can stop them from spreading to unwanted spaces by keeping on top of deadheading and pruning. This is exactly why Charlotte encourages gardeners to add them into borders with other plants:

'People tend to worry that wildflowers will engulf their gardens and take over. Like a lot of perennial plants, if you give them the freedom to spread, they will, but with a little management, they are easy to tend, even the more bullish ones like oxeye daisies,' she says.

Popular wildflowers, like foxgloves, cornflowers, and oxeye daisies, are known for self-seeding profusely and without using essential pruning tools (like these bypass shears from Amazon) to remove faded blooms, they typically crop up elsewhere in the yard in the following spring.

But, simply keeping on top of this and not allowing the plants to go to seed once blooms start to fade will help maintain a neater look, if that is what you wish to achieve.

Alternatively, you can embrace wildflowers growing across your yard and collect seeds to sow again next year. Use these seed packets from Amazon for your seed storage.

How to plant wildflowers and perennials together

Adding wildflowers among your planting is an excellent way to start rewilding your yard, but Charlotte urges you can also have a more controlled approach if desired:

'I’m not suggesting people take out their existing planting and replace it with 90% wildflowers, but I think we should look to the catalogue of native plants to complement our favourite cultivars.

'For example, add cowslips and primulas to borders. They are early flowering, bringing color to your garden at the start of the growing season, and support pollinators at their most challenging time of year,' she adds.

With this mindset, it can also be beneficial to embrace the wildflowers that appear without you planting them. You can identify wildflowers by their petals, stems, and foliage, and research how best to tend them.

Alternatively, scatter wildflower seeds – like this butterfly and hummingbird wildflower mix from Amazon, or this annual wildflower mix from Amazon – to achieve a meadow in your yard.

Allowing wildflowers to thrive in your yard will actually also boost soil health for those perennials you have chosen to be there. This is thanks to them 'improving the sequential cycle, which in turn encourages more plants to establish,' explains Charlotte.

This is a process called nutrient cycling, where the often deep taproots of wildflowers bring nutrients from deep in the soil higher up for surrounding perennials to soak up – one of the reasons to leave dandelions in the yard.

FAQs

Can I just scatter wildflower seeds in my border?

To add wildflowers to a border, you can just scatter seeds. Although, for best results it's wise to first prepare the soil. This includes lightly raking it to improve seed-soil contact. Something else to take into consideration is the soil type in your yard and which wildflower seeds will perform best in your border. Make sure to also keep the seeds well-watered after scattering to aid germination.

If you do decide to plant wildflowers and perennials together, consider making wildflower seed bombs. They're a fun way to quickly add a wide range of wildflowers to your yard.

Weeds have long been villainized in the garden, seen as problem plants that grow where they are not wanted. In recent years, however, there has been a growing acceptance that tolerating less problematic weeds is necessary. After all, a few dandelions in the lawn isn't something to lose sleep over.

However, there are many vigorous, invasive weeds that exhibit a dangerous propensity to take over backyards. Many of these are non-native, swamping out native plants and dominating landscapes. Identifying and eliminating these invasive weeds is, therefore, important, and quick action can help to prevent minor outbreaks from turning into serious infestations.

So, if you are already clued up on invasive trees and invasive climbers to avoid, we have all the information you need on weeds. Here, garden experts reveal tips to spot, stop and eliminate common invasive weeds.

How to identify and eliminate invasive weeds

Many weeds are found growing across different climates, such as nettles or clover, whereas some problem plants are only found growing in certain regions or US hardiness zones. The kudzu vine, for example, is typically found in warmer, southern regions. So, if you are looking for advice on how to keep weeds out of flower beds, you have come to the right place. Here, we outline how to identify and eradicate five common invasive weeds.

1. Giant hogweed

Giant hogweed, Heracleum mantegazzianum, is a large, toxic perennial weed growing from US hardiness zone 3 and thriving in cool, wet and mild regions.

'Giant hogweed is found across North America, proving to be problematic in Oregon, Washington and parts of Canada,' says Scott Seargeant, garden expert, arborist and landscaper based in California. 'It can grow ten to fifteen feet tall with large incised leaves (irregularly jagged).

'Giant hogweed is a member of the carrot family, producing white flower umbels in summer, typically around June,' Scott adds. 'While the flowers might be attractive, giant hogweed is considered a poisonous plant, as the sap can burn the skin and cause dermatitis.

'The best way to remove giant hogweed is to pull it out after it first emerges in spring, but care must be taken not to let the plant touch your skin. Wear protective long-sleeved gardening gloves, like these from Amazon.

Giant hogweed has a deep taproot that looks similar to a parsnip. As a former professional gardener, I have found that removing weeds with taproots, like giant hogweed, is best done on a slightly damp, wet day. In clay soils, for example, taproots will slide out when the ground is wet, whereas they can easily snap in dry, compacted borders.

One common weeding mistake to avoid is incorrectly disposing of waste material. 'Do not burn the plant as the toxic materials will become airborne, and inhalation is harmful,' Scott warns. 'Giant hogweed also grows from seeds, so take time to carefully snip any flower heads into a green waste sack and dispose of them in waste collection. Patience and consistency are crucial to removing hogweed, but it can be done.'

2. Nutgrass

Nutgrass, Cyperus rotundus, is a common, aggressive weed that can quickly get out of hand. 'Nutgrass is fast-growing, spreading by white rhizomes, or underground stems that quickly produce tubers called nutlets,' says Scott. 'These nutlets produce new plants that repeat the cycle and help to spread this plant across fields, yards and borders.

'It is easy to identify nutgrass,' Scott continues. 'These invasive weeds have triangular stems about four to six inches long and tend to pop up on the lawn one or two days after mowing. They also produce brown flowers that quickly produce and spread seeds.

'To control nutgrass, you can use a selective herbicide especially made for nutgrass,' says Scott, which is ideal if you are wondering how to kill weeds but not grass. 'Alternatively, for smaller outbreaks, you can pull nutgrass including the root, although removing the nutlets from the soil will prove tricky.'

While many organic, natural products are not as selective and can also damage lawns, sacrificing some turf might be necessary. Using a natural vinegar-based solution, for example, will remove nutgrass, but will also kill turf too. Organic weedkillers are available from Walmart.

3. Bermuda grass

'Bermuda grass, Cynodon dactylon, is an aggressive grass that will establish wherever there is sun and water, growing as low as US hardiness zone 5,' says Scott. 'It is generally darker green and finer in texture, as you can see here. The blades also have a pointy tip, which should be easy to spot.

'They spread by stolons or rhizomes underground which can be hard to eradicate. Seeds are also produced on six-inch helicopter-like stalks that disperse by wind and hitch a ride on shoes, clothing and animal fur.

'These invasive plants can produce seed stalks in eight to ten days depending on the climate,' Scott says. 'This makes it imperative to mow Bermuda grass every week during the growing season to prevent flower production. While persistent mowing will help, I have found that the best control is using a herbicide spray that will kill Bermuda grass.'

4. Kudzu

'In my years of working with homeowners to create and maintain thriving landscapes, I’ve encountered my fair share of invasive weeds including kudzu,' says Jimmy Patterson, founder and president of TruScape, based in Pennsylvania. 'These plants are more than just a gardening annoyance - they can cause significant damage to ecosystems and even pose health risks if not dealt with promptly.'

Kudzu, Pueraria montana, is a deciduous invasive vine that engulfs all native plants in its path, starving them of sunlight and water. The leaves are three to four inches long with an oval or heart-like shape with small hairs. As a member of the pea family, Fabaceae, the flowers are identifiable as pea-like, similar in shape to lupines, and will open in a purple or pink color.

'Known as the vine that ate the South, kudzu cannot be left untreated,' Jimmy continues. 'If you ignore this invasive weed, it will aggressively smother trees and shrubs in no time.'

'The key to managing these invasive species is vigilance and persistence. Kudzu often demands a combination of repeated mowing or cutting, lifting roots and targeted herbicide use to control its rapid spread,' Jimmy advises.

Mowing or cutting the vines will slow the plant down but not eradicate it, although a combination of cutting and lifting - while hard work - is a non-chemical way to eliminate kudzu. Many gardeners also suggest using grazing animals to eat the vines, so if you fancy yourself as a smallholder or farmer, this could be one option to consider. Just be careful the animals do not eat the plants you want to keep!

5. Himalayan balsam

Himalayan balsam, or Impatiens glandulifera, is today widely naturalized along riverbanks and ditches across the UK and the US. This invasive plant might look pretty, producing pink flowers in summer, but it will quickly dominate ecosystems at the expense of native plants.

This problem plant typically grows from three to eight feet in height, sometimes taller, with lime-green leaves that are elongated and usually measure up to six inches. The plant can produce a strong musty smell that fills the air, particularly on rainy days.

Hand pulling is an effective method of removing Himalayan balsam. This annual has a shallow root system, so by lifting stems and roots early in the year, you will prevent these weeds from producing flowers or seeds.

If you have a larger infestation of Himalayan balsam, you can use a trimmer to cut the plant down to the base, disposing of the cuttings in your green waste collection. While it might take a few years to eradicate, persistent removal by hand will keep your yard free of chemicals and hopefully, free of Himalayan balsam. Try something like this Black and Decker cordless strimmer, available from Amazon, to get the job done.

FAQs

Are there any plants that can prevent weeds from growing?

Growing some of the best plants to stop weeds can help prevent the spread of unwelcome annual and perennial weeds. While weeds are vigorous and are impossible to eliminate, using plants that have dense root systems and evergreen foliage can reduce the opportunities for weeds to develop. Why not try growing the native Juniperus horizontalis, commonly known as the creeping juniper, available from Walmart? If you are wondering how to get rid of weeds without using chemicals, then growing evergreen juniper is a good idea.

When buying new plants, it is always a good idea to check the soil for any small seedlings that have germinated and are growing in the base of the pot. Often, invasive species can find their way into gardens in the soil of newly purchased plants, so it is always good to keep an eye out and apply vigilance when transporting plant material.

For more information, see our guide on invasive bulbs to avoid planting in your yard.

It might surprise you to know that you actually can compost weeds. Although it sounds problematic, due to the tendency for weeds to spread fast, it is possible to compost weeds effectively so they don't return - all while offering nutrient value to your compost.

It can take some time to wrap your head around what to put in your compost bin when you first start making compost, but you shouldn't be scared to try more unusual compost ingredients. Of course, there are certain weeds you should avoid putting in your compost heap that present the risk of coming back. However, some weeds can be put in your compost bin safely, contributing to a valuable fertilizer for your plants.

Here, compost experts have shared everything you need to know about how to compost weeds and which ones to avoid so you can add them to your heap correctly.

Tips for composting weeds

Keeping plant material aside when you get rid of weeds can provide a valuable ingredient for composting. This is because you need plenty of green materials in your compost to keep it productive and stop compost smelling bad.

Weeds that are safe to compost include annuals without seeds, dandelions, clover, and nettles. However, you do need to make sure the weeds are in the correct state to compost.

'To compost weeds effectively, ensure that those with seeds or invasive roots are either dried out entirely or 'solarized' under a plastic sheet in direct sunlight for several days, a process that helps neutralize seeds and prevent regrowth,' advises Lauren Click, founder of Let's Go Compost.

As well as this, take the extra precaution of composting weeds at a high temperature (above 130°F), Lauren notes. Hot composting will reduce the ability for any seeds to germinate. 'Breaking down weeds into smaller pieces also enhances microbial access, speeding up composting and reducing the risk of weed seeds sprouting in the compost,' Lauren adds.

To effectively break down weeds, experts also recommend getting the carbon-nitrogen ratio right. 'Keep adding lots of high-carbon materials to your weed compost and give it extra time to thoroughly break down before spreading it,' says Christen Waddell, Farmstead Manager at Blackberry Farm.

Weeds you shouldn't compost

Not only do you need to know how to compost weeds correctly, but you also need to be aware of which weeds are invasive plants that are best to avoid adding to a compost heap.

'Some weeds, like bindweed, Japanese knotweed, and couch grass, are particularly resilient and can survive typical composting conditions, especially if roots or seeds aren’t fully decomposed,' says Lauren.

Problematic weeds like this often contain structures that make them resistant to low-temperature composting, Lauren explains. You should only ever compost them in a hot composter, like in this insulated compost bin from Amazon, or dispose of them separately.

If you're nervous about these weeds spreading and don't want to have to deal with the chore of getting rid of Japanese knotweed, avoid putting them in your compost.

'The reasons for this is you'll end up with compost that will just be adding more problematic weeds into your garden,' Christen explains.

'Invasive species have a higher potential for regeneration; even a small piece of root in finished compost can establish and spread in a garden, making careful weed selection crucial,' Lauren adds.

Something else to take into consideration when deciding which weeds to compost is whether they have any chemicals on them. 'Don't compost any weeds that have been treated with herbicides as these herbicides can find their way into your garden and cause damage,' warns Denis McCausland, horticulture expert and landscaper.

FAQs

Which plants can't go in compost?

There are a few plants you should avoid putting in your compost heap. This includes onions and garlic which have a strong scent that repels the worms, insects and microorganisms helping to breakdown your compost. Some food crops are also highly acidic and adding them to your compost heap can make your compost too acidic.

The rule of thumb with composting weeds is to avoid doing it if you're unsure whether the weed you're dealing with is safe to put in your compost bin. 'Be careful to also not add diseased plant material to your compost pile unless you are certain that your compost will get hot enough to kill the disease organisms,' advises Christen. We also recommend reading up on composting mistakes to avoid to aid your success with composting.

In recent years, many gardeners have relaxed their approach to weed control. Natural gardens, wild patches and meadow-like planting have ushered in a more carefree approach to weeding. This positive change is rooted in environmentalism, with an awareness that we, as gardeners, have a part to play in caring for the soil, the wider ecosystem and the wildlife where we live.

However, as a gardener myself, I know that there are certain weeds you do not want growing in your flower beds or vegetable garden. While using inorganic chemicals to remove weeds is not recommended, there are effective methods that can help you clear nettles, brambles and dandelions, and fall is a good time to get organized and on top of your weeding for next year.

So, if you are wondering how to kill weeds in the fall, our guide has all the information you need for targeting problem plants before they settle in for the winter months and return in the spring. Here, I share tips and tricks for clearing perennial and annual weeds, and lessons I have learned from working in private and public gardens across the UK.

How to kill weeds in the fall

When considering how to get rid of weeds, employing natural methods is far preferable to using chemicals. Whether you have chickweed spreading across your borders or clover growing through gravel pathways, there are weed control methods that are particularly effective in the fall months that need not impact your wildlife garden ideas. So, get a jump start on weeding for next year by following our simple guide and learning how to kill weeds in the fall.

Manually removing weeds

Manually removing weeds, while time-consuming, is perhaps the most effective way to eliminate unwelcome plants from your plot. For many gardeners, this age-old approach to weed control cannot be bested, considered as mindful gardening. So, if you want to get some fresh air and as much vitamin D as possible during fall, spending 15 minutes a day hand weeding in your yard can help.

While the climate will vary depending on where you live and your US hardiness zone, most of us typically experience mild temperatures and plenty of rain during the fall months, creating ideal conditions for annual weeds to germinate rapidly. Over October and November, you will see young seedlings emerging across beds and borders.

In terms of essential gardening tools, using a garden hoe can be useful for annual weeds, such as henbit, deadnettle, and chickweed, most of which have shallow root systems. Simply loosen the soil with a hoe, and then pick out the weeds. Just be sure you are not removing any foxglove, aquilegia or other biennial seedlings that you want to keep.

In terms of perennial weeds, a little more precision and care will be needed when handling nettles, brambles and dandelions. Perennial weeds will have extensive root or rhizome networks, all of which must be removed if you want to fully eradicate problem plants from your yard.

For example, nettles have networks of rhizomes growing horizontally, appearing like a tangled underground web that enables this weed to spring up in many different locations. Bramble, plantain, dock leaf and dandelion plants all have deep tap roots. This clever evolutionary adaptation can make it very tricky to get rid of these weeds, but patience and care are your secret weapon.

For larger perennial weed clumps, use a fork to loosen the soil around the crown, being careful not to slice into the roots. I find it is best to do this on wet days, as damp soil can help to make the job of pulling up entire roots far easier (and more satisfying). I once spent an entire day pulling up dock leaves in a field when working as a gardener in Wales. The wet soil helped to make this job 100 times easier.

For smaller clumps, follow the same method as above but instead use a hand fork or a hori hori knife, which should allow you to carefully wiggle the weed out of the soil.

As any gardener will tell you, manually removing weeds is a long game to play. While you won't get rid of every weed, regularly weeding can help to keep unwelcome plants at bay.

One final job to add to your fall gardening checklist is mulching, which can be done once you have finished weeding ahead of the winter cold.

'After you have finished weeding in the fall, usually around October or November, simply add a two-inch layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the base of perennials and shrubs,' says Reese Robbins, garden expert and creator of Just Pure Gardening. 'This layer insulates the roots against sudden temperature drops, helps retain soil moisture, and reduces weed growth over winter.' Pine straw mulch is available to order online from Walmart.

If you have a severe weed problem in your yard, however, there are other options to consider.

Using organic sprays to get rid of weeds

In the fall months, perennial weeds are storing nutrients to prepare for winter dormancy. They then use this energy to reshoot in the spring, so taking the time to eradicate them in the fall can prevent this. While I would always suggest manually weeding is your first and best option, I know that sometimes this can be an impossible task.

So, if you are overcome with perennial broadleaf weeds, including nettles and dandelions, using an organic herbicide spray is one option to consider. While this should be a last resort, limited and targeted applications can help to control a weed problem that is spiraling out of control.

Perennial weeds are troublesome because of their extensive root networks, as mentioned above, and any missed section of root that is left behind will regrow. For example, if you are wondering how to remove weeds from pavers, such as dandelions growing among cobblestones at the front of your home, using a small amount of organic herbicide can help, as it will be nigh on impossible to excavate all of the root between small cracks.

Perennial weeds are best eliminated with iron-based sprays, which can kill broadleaf varieties without damaging grass, making this a good option if your lawn area is overcome with weeds. Organic iron-based weed killers are available from Amazon.

Do not apply any herbicide or weed killer when it is wet or windy, as there is always a risk that the solution can wash off and damage nearby perennials or shrubs in your borders. Always select a still, dry day, and apply small amounts. Remember that weedkillers, even if they are organic, can impact biodiversity, so use them sensibly and sparingly.

Alternative solutions for killing weeds

There are hundreds of alternative methods that you can try in the fall months, including using vinegar or baking soda to kill weeds. While there is no unanimous verdict on the viability of alternative methods, you might find one recipe or approach that works for you.

'Some natural methods can help to reduce and limit the spread of weeds,' says Drew Swainston, former professional gardener and gardens content editor at Homes & Gardens. 'However, in reality, using your hands to dig, fork and lift weeds seems to be the best approach, particularly if you are conscious to keep chemicals out of your yard.'

For large areas of ground that are full of perennial and annual weeds, consider covering them with cardboard and covering this with mulch. 'Covering soil can hinder new weed growth,' Drew adds, 'and while you have to be patient and avoid planting here for six months or longer, this method can help to clear large areas of weeds.'

Finally, if you are dealing with weeds in gravel, why not use a weed flame torch, available to order from Walmart? In my experience, burning weeds that have deep tap roots will not stop them from regrowing, but repeated burning can eventually do the job.

FAQs

Are weeds good for pollinators?

Yes, there are many flowering weeds for pollinators that are beneficial if you are looking to boost biodiversity in your yard. Dandelions and clovers are known to be popular with butterflies and bees, so leaving a small wild patch in your yard is a good idea. Why not leave plants to grow and self-seed towards the end of your yard?

If you are worried about weeds, bare soil should be avoided. This is only an opportunity for weed seeds to germinate and dominate. My advice: fill your borders and beds with ground cover plants to stop weeds, such as monkey grass or Japanese spurge, or for a native option, why not learn how to grow wild ginger? These plants, once established, will outcompete any opportunistic weeds.

Spurge can be the scourge of many households. It is an aggressive and fast-spreading weed that grows widely. Spurge commonly invades lawns - it also attacks flower beds, driveways, and more - and can be tricky to treat if it takes hold.

One spurge plant can produce thousands of seeds, some of which can remain dormant in the soil for months or years before sprouting. Spurge is capable of overpowering existing grass and spreading rapidly throughout a lawn.

As spurge targets weak and unhealthy grass, good lawn care can promote strong grass to combat the threat. Even if you spot this unwanted invader, you can get rid of spurge in your lawn if you act quickly to stop it from spreading.

How do I get rid of spurge in my lawn?

There is no covering up that spurge is troublesome, but you can get rid of it. To help guide you in the right direction, we take a close look at what spurge is and get tips from lawn care experts on how to get rid of spurge in your lawn.

What is spurge?

Spurge is a low-growing and fast-spreading lawn weed. Spurges are referred to as spotted spurge, creeping spurge, or prostrate spurge, and these unwanted plants can spread rapidly on domestic lawns. The weed can take hold in flower beds and is even often seen growing happily in cracks on a pavement or driveway.

In a domestic lawn, this troublesome invader thrives in stressed, weak, or unhealthy lawns and can quickly swamp the grass. Its dense mats grow close to the ground and produce red hairy stems that branch out from a central point. These stems produce a milky sap when broken, which can be a skin irritant, and leaves often have a red spot. A single spurge plant can reach three feet wide and grow a taproot up to two feet long.

Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love, claims spurges, also known as sand mats, must be combatted quickly to prevent them from taking hold on a lawn. ‘Regularly scout for young spurge plants as soon as the temperatures reach 75F,’ he recommends. ‘It’s when most spurge weed types start growing. Because they spread so quickly and are so invasive, you want to identify and remove them ASAP. ‘

Spurge spreads from underground stems and seeds, so care and attention are required to combat it and stop this scourge from spreading. But what can be done to prevent spurge from becoming a problem in the first place?

How to prevent spurge

Spurge targets weak and unhealthy grass, so maintaining a healthy lawn is the best first line of defense. Having a green and thick lawn thanks to good year-round maintenance - including a routine of spring lawn care, summer lawn care, and fall lawn care - will help avoid the conditions that spurge thrives in.

Lydia Beaumont, the lifestyle editor at Gardeners Yards, recommends that prevention starts with maintaining a healthy, dense lawn. ‘Regular mowing, proper fertilization, and watering help create a lawn that outcompetes spurge,’ says Lydia.

Properly fertilizing a lawn provides the nutrients required to grow thickly and produce a dense, green lawn. A well-rounded feeding regime should include fertilizing a lawn in spring and another 1-2 applications throughout summer and fall.

Feeding, with watering, is key to a strong lawn that prevents spurge from becoming an issue. Watering grass deeply encourages the grass to develop strong roots. Only watering lightly, or not irrigating at all, is a lawn care mistake that means weak grass with shallow roots. Such weak or bare spots are ideal environments that spurge can take advantage of.

Another expert-approved way to prevent the outbreaks of spurge is to ensure there are no bare patches in the grass by planting grass seed. Scott McLeod, the owner of McLeod Landscaping, says: ‘I recommend homeowners overseed thin areas of lawn and water properly to promote dense, healthy turf.’

How to get rid of spurge in grass

Identifying and dealing with spurge promptly can prevent it from quickly and aggressively spreading through a lawn. It invades so speedily as spurge has a fast lifecycle and will spread seed only 4-5 weeks after germinating. As Tom Monson, the owner of Monson Lawn & Landscaping, admits: ‘If you catch it before there are hundreds of spurge plants, it's very easy to remove the weed along with the taproot.

‘However, if many developed plants have already spread seed, it's going to be a battle.’

Hand-pulling is the best bet to get rid of small patches of spurge. Use a small trowel or hand fork to carefully lever the spurge out of the ground, ensuring the removal of the entire root system. Taking time to remove the whole root is important as otherwise, the weed will resprout from any sections of root left in the ground.

It is recommended to wear gloves, due to the potentially irritating sap that spurge produces if the stem breaks. Furthermore, any spurge must be bagged up and thrown away rather than added to your home compost.

There are chemical controls which can be applied to prevent spurge. Using pre-emergent herbicides in spring can prevent weed seeds from germinating - as spurge seeds can remain dormant in the soil and sprout years later - and help the grass grow strongly and thickly to prevent spurge from taking hold.

Spurge outbreaks during the season can be targeted with a post-emergent herbicide. This works best when the spurge plants are young and selective herbicides can target weeds without harming the grass. Scott McLeod from McLeod Landscaping recommends: ‘For established spurge, selective herbicides containing 2,4-D have provided the best control in my experience. Often multiple applications are needed.’

Maintaining a healthy lawn and being vigilant to deal with any outbreaks quickly is the best-recommended method, with chemical control left as a last resort. ‘A balanced approach works best,’ says Lydia Beaumont. ‘Non-chemical methods are great for preventing small infestations, while chemical herbicides can be used carefully for larger or more persistent issues.’

Following any lawn treatments, be sure to seed the spots with fast-growing grass seeds to fill the patches and prevent spurge from coming back.

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FAQs

Does vinegar kill spurge?

Vinegar can kill weeds as it contains acetic acid - an effective weedkiller. It can be used to kill spurge, however, it would only be successful on young plants. This approach would be less viable on older plants. It would not be recommended to use vinegar to get rid of spurge on lawns, as vinegar is a non-selective herbicide that would damage any grass it touches.

Lawn weeds are always troublesome and want to be dealt with. However, it is always important to do so sensibly to kill weeds but not harm grass. Adopting tactics such as hand-weeding and using specialized tools to completely remove weeds are always recommended, as well as doing proper research before using any weedkiller products.

As summer rolls on, weeding in the yard can seem never-ending. Dandelion, plantain and crabgrass seem to grow here, there and everywhere. Without regular weeding, the borders can quickly become more weed than plant. Fortunately, I have a tool that makes quick and easy work of these pesky garden weeds.

Several years ago, one of my gardening friends bought me a hori hori knife. Gifting someone a garden knife might seem odd - and perhaps a little threatening - but it is the best gardening present I have ever received. Ever since, I have been a hori hori convert. Just this week I have been out in the garden using my knife, quickly and easily pulling dandelion weeds - root and all - out of the borders.

Gardeners will know that there are many different essential gardening tools, and whether you are an experienced gardener or a beginner, finding a tool that works for you can transform your garden maintenance jobs. Here, I share how to use the hori hori knife and how it can make light work of those jobs on your summer gardening checklist.

What is a hori hori knife?

The hori hori knife is a traditional Japanese gardening tool. Hori hori translates to dig dig and is the name given to these small garden knives. Typically made with a wooden handle, the sharp metal blade can be used for a variety of gardening jobs, making light work of arduous chores.

The knife can have a smooth or serrated edge, the latter being useful for sawing or cutting plant material. The metal blade is typically made of steel, meaning it can be maintained and kept for many years. I have had my knife for several years, and it is still going strong.

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How to use a hori hori knife

The two main uses of a hori hori knife are weeding and planting. This small knife can allow you to be more targeted when weeding, as opposed to using a large tool such as a garden spade or fork.

What's more, the blade can reach a good depth, so removing those weeds that have a long tap root is made significantly easier. One of the most common weeding mistakes that gardeners make is to remove only the foliage, leaving all or some of the root system intact underground. The hori hori knife will allow you to remove all parts of the weed, without damaging surrounding perennials or shrubs.

Planting jobs are also made easier by using this gardening knife. For planting small, starter plants that arrive in dainty pots, this knife is ideal for digging small holes in busy and crowded borders.

I have also used my hori hori knife for bulb planting. The blade will often display engraved measurements, making it easy to ascertain depth when planting spring bulbs. In addition, the thin blade will allow you to work quickly, planting each bulb in record time.

How to maintain hori hori knives

As with any garden tool, maintenance is important. Clean, sharp tools are the gardener's best friend, making easy work of your garden chores. Try to remember to clean your hori hori knife in cold water after every use. If you forget, just give the blade a quick wash before you use it next.

Some knife or tool oil - such as camellia oil - can be applied every few months, helping to protect your blade against rusting. I would advise sharpening your blade as and when necessary, to keep your gardening work effective and efficient.

During the busy spring and summer months, you might find that you are sharpening your knife every week, but this quick maintenance task should not be skipped.

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FAQs

Are hori hori knives safe?

As with any garden tool, safety is the number one priority. Always keep tools out of the reach of children, and never pick up your knife by the blade. I would recommend keeping a protective case or sheath on you at all times, to safely store the knife when you are not using it.

Using a hori hori knife in the yard can help to make easy work of those tricky and time-consuming tasks, including weeding the borders. For more advice on maintaining garden tools, see our guide on how to clean garden tools, helping to keep your favorite spade, fork and shears in good working order.

We all want a pristine lawn but nutsedge, or nutgrass, is a common problem for homeowners and could be the reason why your lawn isn't what you wished for. This aggressive weed, which looks like grass, can quickly take over your yard, and many traditional weed control methods often fall short of success. If you ignore the impostor, you’ll have a relentless weed that suffocates your lawn.

Nutsedge is among the most challenging lawn weeds to manage. But with the correct control methods and proper identification, you can eventually send the weed packing.

Our guide has the details on how to get rid of nutsedge to keep your lawn green and thick, and borders, patios, and driveways free of these unwanted weeds. Whether you are an experienced gardener or a beginner, our effective tips are simple to understand and apply in your yard.

What is nutsedge?

Nutsedge is a persistent weed that usually grows in warmer climates. It is identified by its triangular stem, spiky leaves, and distinctive seed heads. Despite its resemblance to certain types of lawn grass, nutsedge is not an actual grass and does not resemble the pristine lawn that many homeowners desire. Instead, it spreads by underground structures called rhizomes and nutlets, which make it difficult to control. Once the weed grows tall enough, it will develop seedheads. Let it grow wild and it can soon become unmanageable.

Natural methods for removing nutsedge

If you want a natural way to kill nutsedge, there are a few options to consider. One of the simplest methods is to pull it out manually.

'There is a temptation to pull nutsedge out by hand but, the simple fact is that this would be a mistake,' says Drew Swainston, garden editor at Homes & Gardens. 'You need to remove as much of the roots as possible, otherwise, any remaining pieces in the soil will resprout,' adds Swainston.

'To remove the nutsedge by hand, which is recommended to try before reaching for the chemicals, you need to dig a large hole down around the root of the weed and get it out of the ground without leaving any roots behind. Any pieces of root that may remain in the soil must be removed to prevent them from resprouting,' he adds.

'It is important to closely check and rummage around the resulting hole to see any stray pieces of root. The holes you make from hand-digging out nutsedge can be filled with a mix of topsoil and grass seed, this should quickly fill out the bare patch in the lawn.'

Another option is to smother the nutsedge by covering it with mulch or newspaper. This method works best in flower beds or small areas.

Chemical methods for removing nutsedge

The most common and effective way to kill nutsedge, similar to getting rid of crabgrass, is with a chemical application. However, be aware that there is no preventative treatment available for nutsedge. It can only be controlled by a post-emergent herbicide.

Post-emergent herbicides, such as this Bonide Sedge Ender from Amazon or this Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns from Amazon, should be applied directly to the nutsedge leaves to kill the plant from the top down.

There are several types of post-emergent herbicides available, including those that contain the active ingredients halosulfuron or sulfentrazone. It’s important to note that post-emergent herbicides can potentially kill other plants, so choose carefully, follow the instructions, and avoid applying them on particularly windy or rainy days.

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FAQs

What is the difference between grasses and sedges?

Sedges do not have such diversity of shape and color as the true grasses, but there are fewer than half the number of sedge species than there are grasses. One feature that distinguishes sedges from grasses is that the stems generally have triangular cross-sections. They also tend to prefer shadier and damper conditions than most grasses. Some well-known sedges include nutsedge (Cyperus esculentus), water chestnut (Eleocharis dulcis), and the white star sedge (Rhynchospora colorata).

For more information on invasive weeds, see our guide to how to get rid of skyseed, a previously unknown problem plant that is quickly becoming an issue in southern states.

Caring for a lawn can require a lot of care and attention, which is why people often turn to weed and feed products. They offer a double combo of benefits to gardeners who use them annually to help keep their lawns lush and weed-free. 

Fertilizing a lawn and combatting weeds are essential parts of any good lawn care regime, along with mowing, aerating, and dethatching. But that all takes time and planning, so it is understandable why products that can do two jobs are beneficial. 

Weed and feed products are useful, but they do need to be applied properly and at the right time. Otherwise, they can do more harm than good to your lawn. To help you get it right and maintain a healthy lawn, we look at the right time and how often to use them.

What are weed and feed products?

The term ‘weed and feed’ covers many products that carry out multiple beneficial tasks to anyone wanting to make their lawn green, thick and weed-free. 

Such products contain post-emergent broadleaf herbicides to kill weeds and prevent them from taking hold in your lawn. They can be used to get rid of dandelions, clover, and many other weeds as they kill weeds but not grass. 

The products also contain fertilizer to provide valuable nutrients to the lawn. Some weed and feed can also contain moss killer and pre-emergent herbicides to stop new weed seeds from sprouting.

What is the best time to put down weed and feed?

Getting the timing right is crucial when using weed and feed products as part of your lawn care regime. To be at its most effective in eliminating weeds and feeding grass, it wants to be applied at the right time of year.

The best time to put down weed and feed is going to be as part of your spring lawn care jobs. If you are thinking of a fertilizer for grass in spring, weed and feed is beneficial as, at this time of year, the weeds are starting to grow and the lawn is awaking from its winter slumber and in need of nutrients. 

‘You can technically use weed and feed all year round but for optimal results you’ll want to use it in early springtime,’ says Chrissie Handley, a lawn care specialist working for Online Turf. ‘This is usually when you’re looking to start work on a new garden project or give your pre-existing lawn a fertilising boost ready for the growing season ahead. I’d recommend using it between March-May when the temperatures start to rise.’

Using the product in spring means you target the weeds that grow in the summer and can become blemishes on your pristine lawn. It is ineffective to use weed and feed in summer. The weeds will be too established and the grass can already be under stress due to heat. Adding feed to a stressed lawn increases the risk of fertilizer burn and yellow patches in the grass. 

The best time to put weed and feed down in spring

As most weed and feed products feature post-emergent herbicides, they should be applied only once the weeds start appearing in mid-spring. 

The exact time they start to grow will depend on your climate and US hardiness zone, but you want to fertilize your lawn in spring with such products between March and May, or even into early June in colder climates. 

Applying the fertilizer to a lawn too early means the weeds will not have started growing and can merely spring up after the application. There is also little point in attempting to use weed and feed early in winter as the lawn will be dormant and the product will not have any effect on frozen soil.

The weather also plays a part in getting the timing right as, for example, there are ideal temperatures for applying weed and feed. As Dan Bailey, president of WikiLawn Austin, says: ‘You want to use it when the outside temperature is between 60 and 90F.’

Keep an eye on the local weather predictions and refrain from fertilizing if heavy rain is predicted. While you can fertilize in the rain and it offers benefits as it helps the soil absorb the products, heavy storms afterwards can potentially dilute the herbicide and render it less effective. 

It pays to pick the right moment, even down to the best time of day, to ensure your weed and feed is the most effective. 

‘When using in the springtime, the best time of day would be in the morning or evening,’ recommends Chrissie Handley. ‘If applied when the sun is directly overhead, the high temperatures can sometimes scorch the product into the lawn, damaging the blades.’

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How often can you use weed and feed each year?

To avoid over-fertilizing a lawn, there are recommended limits to how often you should spread weed and feed on your grass annually. The products contain a high level of chemicals and nutrients, and using too much can affect the balance of nutrients in the soil. Experts recommend that weed and feed should not be used more than twice in one year. 

‘If the spring application doesn’t remove all the weeds, and you think it needs another application, wait until fall to apply a second dose,’ says Jeremy Yamaguchi, CEO of Lawn Love. ‘Your grass will need plenty of time to recover from the first application, so never apply it more than twice a year. 

‘There should be at least two months between the first and second application to keep the chemicals from building up to dangerous levels in the soil and threatening to kill off all vegetation in your yard.‘

Using weed and feed products too often can affect the health of your lawn, causing a lot of damage and even risking killing the grass completely. 

FAQs

Can I weed and feed my lawn in February?

If your grass starts actively growing in February, and the risk of frozen ground has passed, you can use weed and feed products on the lawn during the month.  

Can you put down fertilizer after weed and feed?

As weed and feed products contain fertilizer, it is recommended to wait until fall to fertilize the lawn again.

Do you use weed and feed before or after mowing?

You can mow the lawn before applying weed and feed but do not take out the lawn mower and cut the grass for at least four days after using the product. 

If you intend to overseed a lawn in spring and plant grass seed, you can fertilize it before seeding in spring by using a dedicated starter fertilizer. Such a product is designed for use when sowing seed and one example is Scotts Turf Builder Starter Food, available at Amazon. Using a product not intended to be used alongside seeding can prevent the grass seed from germinating, so always read the packaging when choosing a product to use in spring.

Dandelions are one of the most recognisable, but often unwanted, wildflowers of spring. They produce plump golden cushions of densely packed petals that ripen into ‘clocks’, gossamer pompoms of seeds that are carried far and wide on the breeze.

Dandelion leaves are equally easy to identify, deeply serrated and forming a rosette from which the flower’s sturdy stalk emerges.

Most gardeners dismiss dandelions as weeds and would never incorporate them in their wildflower garden ideas. But talk to environmentalists, herbalists and home cooks and you’ll discover that there’s more to them than you might expect. Do we really need to get rid of dandelions? Are dandelions weeds - or something a bit more important? We investigate. 

Are dandelions weeds, flowers or something else?

I think they are a bit of both - left to their own devices they can become a menace, but they are also fantastically useful plants.

While I appreciate their cheery flowers and the fact that they are an integral part of the natural world, I also know from first-hand experience that if they are left unchecked they can take over a large area of the backyard.

But I wouldn't be without them. I think there is a compromise that can easily be reached by letting a few grow in a secluded area of the yard, as long as you make sure you catch them before their seeds ripen and float away on the next spring breeze.

Here I consider why we should all be rethining weeds, and why dandelions are so much more than just a weed. 

What is a weed?

In the simplest terms, a weed is a plant, usually a wild variety, that is growing where it isn’t wanted.

Most gardeners don’t like weeds because they make our yards look messy and they steal light food and moisture from our carefully tended plants. They can also spread disease and are a perfect hideout for all sorts of pests that lurk under their leaves.

Weeds can be annuals, such as garlic mustard which grows, flowers and dies back the same year after setting seed, or they can be perennials such as bindweed, creeping buttercup, ground elder, couch grass and dandelions.

These more robust varieties grow, seed and spread year after year, often forming dense mats of vegetation, and can become a serious problem if left unchecked.

They are quick to germinate and produce the next generation of flowers, and can be hard to eradicate thanks to their long tap roots that will regrow if even the smallest piece is left in the soil.

 Why dandelions are more than weeds 

Dandelions may be a nuisance to many gardeners, however, they are widely used by humans and wildlife as food and medicine.

In nature, dandelion nectar is a lifesaver for early pollinators such as queen bumblebees when they first emerge from hibernation. Later in the year, they become a key plant for garden birds and several species, such as goldfinches, will feast on their seeds.

For us humans, they are best harvested when young, before they turn tough and bitter. Young leaves make a tasty addition to salads and can be used as a substitute for spinach in soups, pasta dishes and as a pizza topping. 

The flowers taste like sweet honey and make a delicious jam as well as a syrup. My sister-in-law makes wine with dandelions harvested from her allotment, the roots can be dried and ground to make a caffeine-free coffee substitute and the rest of the plant can be used to make herbal tea.

Dandelion flower buds can also be pickled and used as a substitute for capers. Take care when picking dandelions for the table, as they may have been sprayed with chemicals and those by the roadside will be contaminated by car emissions.

Because dandelion roots quest so deeply into the soil, they absorb many nutrients that are stored throughout the plant including antioxidants, vitamins A, C, K and potassium.

They are often used in herbal medicine, but always talk to your primary care physician before taking dandelion supplements. 

 How I deal with dandelions 

The idea of ‘weeds’ is a human construct because in nature all plants have a place and a use.

While I haven’t yet cooked with dandelions, I do let several grow around the garden for wildlife. However, when their seedheads start to appear I try to snap them off before they are blown away and put them in the refuse.

I never add them to the compost heap because its warmth will keep them alive and they will germinate around the backyard when the compost is spread.

How to keep dandelions under control

Because most gardeners see weeds as 'public enemy No1', we have come up with many ways of killing and removing them.

However, they are tenacious plants and when clearing them out we have to be careful to avoid the most common weeding mistakes, which can often make problems worse.

I always advise digging out the tap roots of unwanted patches of dandelions, rather than using any chemical weedkillers. 

Weed pullers, like this Fiskars 4-Claw Stand Up Weeder on Amazon take the strain out of kneeling and bending and are a neat and precise way of removing individual plants, roots and all, from lawns and among other flowers.

For a more traditional tool, you could opt for Grampa's Weeder, which is an Amazon pick and another tool that is used standing up.

If you have very large expanses of dandelions you need to get under control, you can smother them by cutting them back and covering the soil with weed-blocking textile, such as the Weed-X Premium Landscape Fabric from Burpee.

Once you have laid the fabric, add a mulch to stop the light getting through. A mulch such as Garden Elements 100% Natural Cocoa Bean Shell Mulch from Amazon is a great product.

FAQs

Can I compost dandelions without seedheads?

We don’t advise it because although the leaves will decompose, the tough roots can only be destroyed with very high temperatures that may not be reached in a garden compost heap.

Either add the roots to your local authority’s green waste collection or place them on a sunny path on a very hot day until they have dried and shrivelled.

Centuries ago dandelions were regarded as such useful plants that they were grown as a flower and grass was removed to make room for them.

Folklore has it that dandelions are the only plant to represent the three main celestial bodies: the golden flowers are the sun, the seed head the moon and the scattered seeds the stars.

Learning how to make plant fertilizer using weeds is a quick and fun weekend project to complete. Every border and backyard has weeds, typically growing in the lawn or alongside shrubs and perennials, and this is one way to utilize nutrient-rich weeds that are a free resource for gardeners. 

In recent years, many of us gardeners have been reassessing our relationship with weeds, and garden experts are increasingly suggesting that we should celebrate weeds, not least for the biodiversity value of flowering weeds for pollinators. If, however, you are planning on pulling up nettles and dandelions this weekend, why not consider making your own plant fertilizer instead? 

Nutrients contained within the leaves, roots and flowers of weeds can be made into a fertilizer that will boost your fruit and veg crops in the backyard this growing season. Here, I share two simple recipes that I have tried and tested during my gardening years and can be applied in your yard to great effect. So, why not have a go at potion-making this weekend and create your very own, homemade organic fertilizer?

How to make plant fertilizer using weeds

Weeds are a nutrient-rich resource that no garden is short of. Often, nettles grow under hedging and dandelions grow in the lawn. Gardeners should utilize this free food source, and make their own plant fertilizer using weeds. Here, I share two simple recipes that can help to boost your flower beds and garden borders this year. 

1. How to make nettle fertilizer

One of the common weeding mistakes to avoid during the spring and summer months is disposing of nettles without making the most of this nutritious weed. Creating nettle tea, whether for yourself or to be used as a fertilizer in the yard, is a quick and easy option for those gardeners with a nettle problem. 

Stinging nettles are a common weed, often found in garden borders or under hedgerows. However, there are stinging nettle benefits, and this weed is full of nutrients that can be beneficial to many crops and plants. 

Rich in nitrogen, iron and potassium, nettle fertilizer is useful for leafy vegetables. As a professional gardener, I have used nettle feed on crops in the vegetable garden, such as kale, chard and spinach. Nitrogen is useful for these crops as it increases leaf growth, which is ideal for those seeking plenty of salads and leafy veg this summer. 

As the name implies, stinging nettles sting, so wearing thick gloves is always recommended. It is best to collect young, fresh growth, chopping stems and foliage into small bits (no more than 2 to 3 inches). 

Place these nettle remains in a large bucket, and fill it with water to cover the nettles. I tend to place a stone or brick in the bucket to weigh the nettle cuttings down. After 4 weeks, your nettle fertilizer will be ready to use for leafy crops. Dilute 1 part nettle feed to 10 parts water, keeping the solution covered up when not in use. 

In addition, this nettle fertilizer can be used as a foliar spray to deter common garden pests, such as aphids and mites. So, if you are wondering how to get rid of aphids, dilute the nettle solution in small spray bottles combining 1 part nettle feed to 10 parts water, using something like these spray bottles from Walmart. Apply on crops that suffer from aphid and mite attacks, such as fruit and veg crops in the greenhouse. 

2. How to make dandelion fertilizer

If you are wondering how to get rid of dandelions, consider using this flowering weed as a fertilizer. Dandelions are a valuable weed with brilliant yellow blooms, of particular use if you are looking for edible spring flowers or are keen to make some tasty dandelion tea for yourself or your visitors. If this is not your thing, dandelions can also be used to create a nutritious plant fertilizer. 

Rich in potassium, commonly referred to as potash, dandelion fertilizer is suitable for fruiting crops such as melons, strawberries and tomatoes, which all have high potassium requirements. Potassium helps with root development and flower and fruit production.

Using a large bucket with a lid, gather dandelion flowers, leaves and roots, placing them with water in the bucket. Cover the bucket with the lid and leave for 3 to 4 weeks in your garden shed or garage. It is best to stir the dandelion mixture once a week but be warned, the smell can be a little unpleasant. 

After 3 to 4 weeks, strain your mixture, using a mesh cloth or an old tote bag, saving the liquid but discarding the green waste. This is an important step as you do not want to spread dandelion seeds or roots all across the backyard.

To apply your dandelion fertilizer, dilute 1 part solution to 10 parts water in a watering can, and pour around the base of your fruiting crops. You can also use it as a foliar spray, but be careful not to cover fruits that you are soon to harvest.

FAQs

What weed fertilizer is suitable for flowering and fruiting crops?

Dandelion fertilizer is high in potassium, which is an ideal feed for flowering and fruiting crops such as strawberries, squashes and tomatoes. In addition, consider how to make comfrey fertilizer, another feed that is high in nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that is useful for peppers and cucumbers. 

Making plant fertilizer from weeds is an easy and sustainable way to feed and nurture your crops. Gardening in this way is organic and cost-effective, utilizing common garden weeds found in most backyards. Why not also consider how to make weed killer, using natural and organic methods that will not harm the local environment?

In the first instance you might see weeds growing in your yard and find them a nuisance. But planting that you consider undesirable because you haven't chosen it for your garden can actually be highly beneficial. 

You might start to research how to get rid of weeds when you notice them among your intentional planting, but the truth is that many weeds are valuable sources of nectar and make excellent plants for pollinators.

We've asked experts about flowering weeds for pollinators and which are the best to leave growing in your yard to help bees, butterflies, birds and more.

Why leave flowering weeds for pollinators?

When you're planning how to plant a garden for pollinators, you should consider weeding less often.

'It's very important to leave flowering weeds for pollinators especially during the spring. When bees and other pollinators emerge from hibernation it is vital that they have these weeds in place as they act as first food sources upon waking,' says Sarah Warner, organic growing expert and farm associate at Case Western Reserve University Farm. 

'By late May, there is a greater abundance of food. March and April homeowners start to clean their yard and pull weeds which is taking away vital food sources and disturbing insects, including pollinators, that are still hibernating or resting,' she adds.

You should always check the USDA Invasive Species list to check if the flowering weeds growing in your yard can cause a potential threat before choosing to leave them in your yard.

'How long I leave flowering weeds for pollinators depends on their status. If they are an invasive species, they can cause an issue in the ecosystem by taking over an area of land and displacing native plants,' says Ren Elizabeth, expert gardener and environmental advocate at Eco-Friendly Homestead.

'A good tip is to review your local county's noxious weed guide and regulations and follow their guidelines for plants that must be removed and reported,' Ren adds.

Discover our expert list of the best flowering weeds to leave in your yard to provide a nectar-rich feast for visiting pollinators.

3 flowering weeds for pollinators

Don't be too quick to get weeding when you see unexpected flowering plants emerge in your yard. Many flowering weeds are good for pollinators, providing lots of nectar. We've compiled an expert list of the best flowering weeds for pollinators to leave in your yard.

1. Dandelions

While you may have spent hours researching how to get rid of dandelions, these bright yellow flowers are favored among the bees and butterflies.

'Dandelions are extremely important to leave in the early spring,' says Sarah. 'They are especially important because they provide pollen and nectar making this a very important plant for bees,' she adds.

You might also notice ants feeding on the nectar of dandelions on warm summer days. These weeds tend to grow among grass, so it's important to not mow your lawn in early spring if you want them to grow for pollinators.

'Letting dandelions go to seed is very important so you can keep generating an abundance for bees every year,' says Sarah.

Dandelions are commonly found in US hardiness zone 2 to zone 11.

2. Fleabane

Fleabane is another flowering weed that will self-seed and you might find the bright flowers pop up all around your yard. Just like dandelions, these flowers are an excellent food source for pollinators.

'Fleabane provides nectar for very overworked pollinators that are in desperate need of a food source. Beetles, spiders, and tiny invertebrates love these flowers,' says Sarah.

'When letting this plant go to seed, you can see an increased visit from sparrows, goldfinches, and ground finches as they love this seed as a treat,' she adds.

You'll find fleabane growing in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 8.

3. White clover

Another flower that you might find growing on your lawn is a white clover. 

'White clover is an incredibly hard worker when it comes to blooming for pollinators,' says Brad LaFoy, growing expert and land manager at Blackberry Mountain, Tennessee. 'When growing in mass, white clover can actually be an attractive lawn. It grows to a short maximum height, so it can go without being mowed and not look all that messy,' he adds.

These small, feathery-looking flowers grow well in US hardiness zone 3 to zone 10 and often make an appearance for gardeners who take part in No Mow May.

Create a pollinator garden

FAQs

When should I remove flowering weeds?

If you notice flowering weeds like dandelions or white clovers growing in your backyard, it can be a good idea to leave them for pollinators throughout spring. They are nectar-rich and make a valuable source for pollinators so it's important to not remove them too early. 

If you want to avoid flowering weeds spreading or wish to control their growth, it can be a good idea to remove them as they finish flowering and before they go to seed. Although, seeds can also be a valuable source for pollinators so you might want to consider still leaving them. Always do research around the weeds growing in your yard to ensure you aren't leaving any invasive or harmful species.

Leaving flowering weeds can help the pollinators in your backyard while looking attractive in many ways. They are nectar-rich and removing them can take valuable food sources away from visiting insects and birds. 

If you want to help pollinators even more, why not make a bug hotel or try meadowscaping?

Let’s face it, when it comes to getting rid of weeds in our vegetable gardens, flower beds or in between paving slabs, most of us are on a mission to eradicate them for good before they become an overgrown problem.

Rather than turning to chemical herbicides, the majority of gardeners now look to more natural methods of weed control such as vinegar, using baking soda to kill weeds or even vodka. 

There are lots of ways to try and help prevent weeds from becoming a problem, including using cardboard, mulch or landscape fabric to smother weeds and hinder new growth, for instance.

But if you haven't managed any preventative steps, or the weeds have simply overtaken an area of your yard, you may need a fast solution. 

To this end, you might have heard that the simple act of boiling a kettle and pouring scalding water onto weeds is an effective method of weed control, but does it really work? We asked the experts to find out. 

Does boiling water kill weeds?

According to gardening experts, boiling water will kill the part of the weed it comes into contact with, potentially making it easier to dig up and remove, but it won't get down to the root. This means if you don't dig it up entirely, the weed is likely to come back. 

Jamie Mitri, an environmental engineer and founder of Moss Pure, affirms pouring boiling water over weeds will not completely kill them. 

‘The higher temperature water will temporarily damage the weeds, but this won't be enough to 100% kill the weed's roots and the weeds will grow back,' she says. 

Is boiling water a good idea for weed control?

'Pouring boiling water on weeds may be a potentially successful way to kill the youngest of weeds, or particularly weak weeds, but it is not going to have much of an effect on older weeds - especially ones with tap roots - and isn't a method I would really recommend,' says Drew Swainston, content editor at H&G and former professional gardener. 

'It may look from the surface like you have eradicated older weeds shortly after dousing them with boiling water. The truth is you have not killed them, you may have scalded it and damaged them, but the plant’s roots will not have been affected.

'Perennial, established, and weeds with taproots will continue to stay alive under the surface and merely just shoot again in the near future,' he says.

Other potential pitfalls of using boiling water on weeds

There are other potential downsides to attempting the boiling water technique. You risk damaging the soil health and any other plants or lawn in the vicinity. There is also the obvious health and safety risk of burning yourself - which would not be a risk worth taking. 

'As well as potentially damaging soil or plants in the nearby area, higher temperature water may also cause mold or fungal growth in surrounding soil if you are planting anything near the area where the weeds are located,’ adds Jamie Mitri.

The best method for natural weed control

The best way to get rid of weeds without resorting to chemicals is always going to be to remove them by hand. 

You may wish to use boiling water with care as a starting point, to perhaps help with badly congested patches, but digging out those roots is always going to be the solution.

As Drew Swainston explains: 'Yes, it may be time consuming. Yes, it may not be an exciting task. But the reality is that by being diligent and removing all of the roots you will prevent weeds from resprouting again.'

FAQs

How effective is vinegar at killing weeds?

Vinegar can kill weeds as it contains acetic acid, which can be an effective natural herbicide. You may need to invest in some stronger horticultural vinegar to tackle tough perennial weeds, however, as regular household vinegar might only be effective on younger weeds. 

Controlling weeds is a constant battle for us gardeners, but by using a combination of natural preventative methods, and remembering the value of digging out those roots, they shouldn't become too hard to handle. 

When you think of invasive weeds, a high-end culinary experience in a Michelin-starred Manhattan restaurant might not be the first thing that springs to mind. Or maybe it would. See, weeds are having something of a cultural moment in food. The rise of Copenhagen's Noma to the world stage in the 2010s led to a growing interest in foraging for ingredients we have all around us in abundance, which most of us disregard as useless, or view as a problem rather than a potential food source.

According to Tama Matsuoka Wong, a New Jersey-based finance lawyer turned professional forager, this shift in how we view plants is gaining momentum. ‘Any chef that is ingredients-focused is interested in edible weeds and wildflowers; supply cannot meet demand right now,’ she says. 

And with so many of us adopting changes to our diets in favor of more plant-based alternatives to meat and dairy, Tama believes the trend has firmly taken hold in your average household kitchen. 'I think it began during the Covid19 pandemic when we were all desperate to get outside, and people started to really look at the land in a different way - especially the younger generations.'

‘It was a cultural shift that led me to look at weeds in a different way,’ says Tama. ‘Culture ties us to food and plants. It all began when I noticed we had loads of Japanese knotweed on our land, which as many people know is an invasive plant. 

'My father is Japanese, and had invited some friends to visit us from Japan. When I said I was trying to get rid of this problematic plant, they told me this is eaten in Japan and viewed as a delicacy that's good for your health. It was a lightbulb moment, and I remember thinking maybe I don't have to feel so bad about these weeds.'

How it all began 

Tama’s own mindset continued to shift because, in her words, she was a failed gardener. ‘Everything I tried to plant simply died,’ she says. She had recently returned to the US after years of working as a financial services lawyer in Hong Kong, and was searching for a way to reconnect with the land and her garden.

She says: 'I started looking at the land and asking what is growing there naturally and thriving without me having to do anything?’ 

Tama’s love for plants and food led her to approach Eddy Leroux, executive chef at Restaurant Daniel in New York City, initially just to find out how to cook with the edible plants she had growing on her land. She brought him a bunch of the mint-scented perennial anise hyssop, and some nettles, and he transformed them into something delicious. 

After that initial meeting, they began working together experimentally, where Tama would take in different plants each week for the chefs to cook with. They caught a lot of people's attention, and, as it turned out, had hit upon the zeitgeist. Tama became in demand across the city.

She has been supplying the Daniel Beloud restaurant group for over a decade, as well as many other prominent names on the New York City culinary scene including Ilis in Brooklyn, Korean restaurant Atomix and Nordic-inspired Aquavit, both with two Michelin stars, plus the bartending group Sugar Monk. 

Embracing the weeds

Her her new book, Into the Weeds: How to Garden Like a Forager, out in March and available to pre order on Amazon, Tama wants us to rethink the way we garden, in order to live more in harmony with the land around us. 

‘The reason I feel so passionate about this is if you step back, it is just common sense,’ she says. ‘I am not a meticulous gardener at all. My philosophy is do less and see what comes up. Get curious and you will be surprised at what you see. People can't believe I have a meadow on my land which I didn't plant.’ 

Tama is quick to stress that a backyard can be so much more than just how it looks. 'It is a place you interact with, smell, taste, enjoy - and the more you do that the more you will get happiness out of it,' she says. 'You can relax knowing you don't have to control everything.' 

Gaining confidence as a forager 

This is all very well in practice, but for someone who hasn't had much experience in foraging for edible plants, getting started may feel a little daunting. 

'Just start with one thing,' advises Tama. 'Think about something you know well in your garden, such as a dandelion. Or for example, people have a lot of fig trees in this area of New Jersey, but we barely get any fruits from our fig trees. People don't realise you can use the leaves as they are edible, so you don't have to feel discouraged that your tree isn't fruiting.' 

Tama adds that oftentimes when people are starting out with foraging, there is a temptation to try everything in its raw form, but what she has discovered is these plants are a lot more digestible - and taste better - when they are cooked. 

How to design a wild area

If allowing the weeds to grow or a meadow to form fills you with anxiety about how your garden will look, or what the neighbors might think if your yard is 'messy', Tama has a brilliant piece of advice. 

'Here is the key - when you have done it, make it look like you've done it with intention,' she says. 'For example, we had a dead ash tree on our land, but instead of trying to remove the old wood, we took advantage of it and left it there. It is a haven for insects and woodpeckers, and we even had three flushes of oyster mushrooms off it. But people might look at it and say it is ugly or neglected. 

'In Japan, you put a little rope around the tree - as an ode to the tree and a mark of respect - and by doing so the dead tree suddenly looks intentional and meant to be there. Try to fence off your area or put up a sign or a label, then it shows people it is intentional, and no longer just a weedy pile. Enclose a wild patch it and it will transform.'

FAQs

Where are the best places to forage for plants? 

If you don't have a large patch of land or backyard to forage from, get to know your neighbors, farmers and local land owners. Many of them will have areas chocked by invasive plants and will be happy for you to go and forage them. Always ask the landowners permission before picking anything, wherever you are, and steer clear of foraging in local parks. 

How can I identify plants to forage? 

There are a lot of places you can go to find out about and identify particular plants and weeds, such as your local university extension or agricultural school. The app iNaturalist is also a great resource for identifying plants. And don't forget to ask your neighbors and at local gardening clubs for advice - people want to share their knowledge with you.

In the introduction to her book, Tama observes that, as opposed to manipulating the the land, plying it with chemicals and wondering why plants fail, we should all try to 'rethink the way we garden and our role as stewards of the land… in order to embrace curiosity and humbleness'. 

By shifting our mindsets even just a little, we can all start embrace invasive plants and see them in a whole new, much tastier, light. 

Planting, growing, and taking care of a vegetable garden is no easy feat. It requires close attention to sunlight, soil, competition between plants, time of year and more. However, like with most things, world-famous soccer player David Beckham makes it look simple. He took to Instagram to share a sweet photo of working in his organic vegetable garden with his 12-year-old daughter, Harper.

In the picture, David and Harper pose in front of two raised beds filled to the brim with fresh, tasty-looking greenery. Behind them, we see another bed full of sprouting veggies and a large soil plot, seemingly ready to be planted. In the background, a white picket fence keeps out deer and adds a finished look to the garden. 

To what do they owe their success in the vegetable garden? We consulted with Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at H&G to find out. Mostly, she told us, it boils down to David Beckham's use of raised beds. 'David Beckham’s organic vegetable garden looks to be in fantastic shape, with chard, kale, cabbages, lettuce, and chicory all thriving,' said Rachel. She continued, 'We can see David has chosen to grow vegetables in raised beds, which may account in part for his successful crops.'

But what are the benefits of raised garden beds? Rachel told us:  'There are many advantages to planting in raised beds rather than directly into the ground. The compost in raised beds will have better drainage and be less compacted. The soil will stay warmer for longer, too, which extends the growing season. Raised beds are also a good way to control weeds, and can prevent slugs from destroying younger crops.'

Just because David Beckham is one of the best soccer players of all time doesn't mean he doesn't have know-how when it comes to gardening. Read up on what you can grow in raised beds as the perfect starting place.

You can identify weeds simply as unwanted plants growing in unwanted places in your yard. They compete for resources with the plants you do want to grow, and they can often spoil the look of beds, borders, lawns, and containers.

Knowing how to get rid of weeds effectively will prevent both spread and regrowth, and reduce the time you have to spend on this garden chore. Among the ways to remove them from your garden, you might have heard about using vinegar and wondered if, like using baking soda to kill weeds, it really can work.

To make weeding a more efficient process, we’ve asked garden pros for their know-how on whether using vinegar is a good way to kill weeds, and we’re sharing their expertise here.

Does vinegar kill weeds?

Vinegar can kill weeds according to garden experts, as it contains acetic acid, which disrupts plant cells and can be an effective natural herbicide.

To avoid weeding mistakes, bear in mind that there are caveats. Here are the details you should be aware of.

Which weeds can vinegar kill?

Vinegar is good for getting rid of younger and annual weeds, notes Rachel Bull, Head of Gardens at H&G. 'Younger weeds and plants with softer stems and shallower root systems are typically more susceptible to vinegar’s acidity, while older, more established weeds with woody stems might be more resilient,’ she says.

The strength of the vinegar you use is also important, Rachel says. 'The effectiveness of vinegar as a weedkiller is related to its acetic acid concentration. Household vinegar typically contains around 5% acetic acid. This may prove very effective on the foliage of young weeds, but may not be as good at destroying the more established, perennial ones.'

When faced with tougher weeds, it can be wise to opt for vinegar of a higher solution. 'For optimal results, I recommend horticultural vinegar with 20-30% acetic acid concentration,' says Ben McInerney, gardening expert and arborist. 'It's crucial to use the appropriate strength to achieve desired results while minimizing environmental impact,' he adds. You can find horticultural vinegar online, like this vinegar weed killer from Amazon.

Using vinegar to kill weeds could make your soil more acidic and impact the ability for your plants to grow.

Timing its application can also make a difference. Vinegar works best when the weeds are in full sun, and it's applied on a hot day when rain and wind are not forecast. 'I've observed significant wilting within hours of application, especially on warm, sunny days,' says Ben. This will also prevent any vinegar applied spreading to other plants or grasses in your yard you do not want to harm.

Disadvantages of using vinegar on weeds

Using vinegar can seem an appealing way to get rid of weeds, but how effective it is depends on which weeds are growing. Vinegar might not be as effective against older, established weeds or perennial weeds, which can regrow from their roots even after the foliage is killed.

'It primarily affects the foliage and may not kill the roots of perennial weeds, necessitating repeated applications,' says Ben. 'In my professional experience, vinegar is most effective as part of an integrated weed management approach,' he adds.

Of course, it’s vital to kill weeds but not grass and to kill weeds not plants when tending a yard, including when using vinegar. ‘Vinegar is a non-selective herbicide, meaning it can kill any plant it comes into contact with,’ explains Susan Brandt, co-founder of Blooming Secrets. ‘This includes desirable plants in your garden or lawn. If you decide to use vinegar as a weedkiller make sure you avoid damaging surrounding vegetation.’ Alternatively, consider it to remove weeds from gravel.

Be aware of the impact on soil as well. ‘Vinegar is considered an eco-friendly option compared to chemical herbicides, but it still has some environmental implications,’ says Susan. ‘The acetic acid in vinegar can alter the pH balance of soil over time if applied repeatedly and in large quantities. This can affect the overall health and fertility of the soil.’

Importantly, vinegar needs careful handling. ‘While vinegar is commonly found in households and deemed safe for culinary use, undiluted or concentrated forms can cause skin and eye irritation if handled improperly,’ says Susan. ‘If you decide to use vinegar in the garden, make sure to wear proper protective gear.’ These gardening gloves from Amazon will help prevent skin irritation.

How to use vinegar to kill weeds

If you like the idea of using vinegar as a weedkiller, you can make up your own recipe using the following mixture:

• 1 gallon of vinegar
• 1 tbsp liquid dish soap (which acts as a surfactant to help the solution stick to the weed leaves)
• 1 cup of salt (to increase the efficacy)

Mix the ingredients in a large container, then pour the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray directly onto the weeds, ensuring you coat the leaves thoroughly.

Take care not to spray other plants, and don’t use this weedkiller in windy conditions.

Methods to try alongside vinegar for getting rid of weeds

Vinegar can kill weeds, but you could combine it with other methods of weed control to ensure even better results. Managing weeds in the backyard effectively requires a combination of approaches.

Another option is to physically remove the weeds by hand pulling or using tools like a hoe or weed puller, such as this one from Amazon.

‘Preventive measures also play a crucial role in weed management,’ says Susan Brandt. ‘Maintaining healthy garden beds can prevent weed growth by minimizing available space and resources for them to thrive. Mulching around plants can further suppress weed growth by blocking sunlight and hindering germination.

‘In cases where weeds persist despite other efforts, alternative herbicides approved for specific use on particular types of weeds might need to be considered,’ Susan adds. ‘Make sure you carefully follow the instructions and precautions provided by manufacturers when using any chemical-based herbicides.’

Shop for a weed control essentials online

FAQs

Does vinegar kill weeds permanently?

Vinegar will destroy most broadleaf weeds, however it may kill the part above the ground before reaching the root system. This means your weeds could grow back, so remain vigilant and pull out any new growth quickly.

Is bleach or vinegar better for weeds?

Bleach is much more effective at killing mature weeds, something vinegar struggles to do. Bleach can also prevent new weeds cropping up because it remains in the soil. However, it's important to be aware that bleach will also kill remaining plants and impact soil health, making it hard to grow new plants in this space.

‘Ultimately, achieving effective weed control requires a combination of approaches tailored to the specific situation and type of weeds present,’ says Susan Brandt. ‘Experimenting with different methods and finding what works best for your particular needs will help ensure successful weed management in your garden or landscape.’

Some other methods to consider include growing the best plants to stop weeds and using boiling water to kill weeds.

For any gardener, there’s a whole lot of time to be saved by keeping weeds out of flower beds. And it’s time that could be spent on more pleasurable tasks like putting in and tending desirable plants.

Getting rid of weeds effectively will prevent them from reappearing as well as spreading, but there are measures that will keep them out of beds, borders, and the veggie garden in the first place. This way, the unwanted plants won’t get the chance to take resources away from the flowers, shrubs, and fruit and vegetables you’re nurturing.

We asked gardening experts to share the secrets of keeping weeds away from the yard for beautiful flower beds and borders, and this is what they told us.

5 ways to keep weeds out of flower beds from the pros

Make weeding mistakes and the plants you don’t want in your backyard can spread with amazing speed. What’s more, you’ll need to be aware of the techniques that mean you kill weeds and not plants. Preferable, therefore, is to repel weeds so they don’t take hold and these are the top ways to keep them out of flower beds.

1. Use mulch

Mulch can help stop weeds from thriving in flowerbeds. ‘Most weed seeds germinate after exposure to sunlight, so blocking it out has a significant effect,’ says Amateur Gardening expert Steve Bradley.  

‘Organic mulches, such as bark or garden compost, need to be 3 to 4 inches deep to block out the natural light. Synthetic mulches, such as polythene sheeting or closely-woven fabric, work well but are not visually attractive. You can cover these with bark, gravel, or stone chippings to improve the appearance. On their own, they do not form a complete barrier and weeds can push through.

‘When using any type of mulch, the most effective method of suppressing weeds is to install the mulch first and then plant through it.’

2. Plant generously

Stop weeds from invading by maximizing the desirable plants in a flowerbed. ‘When a large number of plants and flowers are planted in a bed, they create a dense canopy that shades the soil and limits sunlight exposure to potential weeds,’ explains Susan Brandt, co-founder of Blooming Secrets.

‘This reduced light prevents weeds from germinating and taking root. Plants and flowers often have extensive root systems that compete with weeds for nutrients and water. As the flowers grow and their roots spread out, they effectively crowd out any weed growth by depriving them of the essential nutrients they need.’

3. Prepare before planting

To keep weeds at bay, if you need to dig over a bed, do so in good time. Garden soil can contain thousands of weed seeds per square foot and ‘the deeper you dig the more weed seeds are exposed to sunlight’, explains Steve Bradley.

The takeaway? ‘If soil is to be dug over before planting, the best approach is to dig over the area well in advance of planting to encourage weed seeds to germinate and grow, so they can be dealt with before planting begins,’ Steve recommends.

4. Get watering right

Make sure watering your flowerbeds isn’t allowing weeds to flourish. ‘Proper watering techniques play a crucial role in preventing weeds from thriving in your garden,’ says Susan Brandt. ‘Important considerations are the frequency and depth of watering. Surface watering encourages shallow root growth in plants, leaving space for weeds to take hold. Deep watering promotes deep root development, which is desirable as it makes it more difficult for weeds to get established.

‘Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are wonderful to use in your garden. These methods deliver water directly to the roots of your plants while minimizing water waste and reducing weed germination. By avoiding overhead sprinklers that spray water indiscriminately, you can prevent weed seeds from being dispersed throughout your garden.

‘Another consideration is the time of day you water your plants. Watering during early morning hours allows plants to absorb moisture without prolonged periods of dampness that can promote weed germination and growth. Try to avoid evening or nighttime watering, as this will prevent excess moisture on plant surfaces overnight which creates favorable conditions for weed development.’ 

5. Brush up your weeding technique

Keep weeds out with the expert’s weeding technique. ‘I would mulch before planting and then remove any emerging weeds by hand,’ says Steve Bradley. ‘If the area can’t be mulched, shallow hoeing is very effective, but it must be shallow to avoid exposing too many new, dormant seeds. 

‘The most important consideration is to deal with a weed before it can flower and remove the root as well as the top,’ he says. ‘Hence the old saying, “One year’s seeds means seven years’ weeds.”’

FAQs

There’s plenty you can do to stop weeds from stealing water, nutrients, light, and space from the plants you do want to grow. Some can spread rapidly if they do make their home in flowerbeds, so be sure to take the necessary steps get rid of creeping Charlie  if you spot this invader, and get rid of common chickweed, too.

A healthy and blemish-free lawn is the aspiration for many homeowners, however, the perfect lawn does not come easy. There are lots of products available on the market that can help, but can you actually damage your precious lawn by using weed and feed during the summer?

These popular lawn care products are perfectly safe to use early in the summer, but once the temperatures rise they are likely to not be anywhere near as effective and can potentially do lots of harm to your grass.

If you are planning a lawn care regime for the year, it is best advised to avoid using weed and feed once the temperatures get above 85F. Choosing the right time of year to use these products ensures the grasses take full advantage of the nutrients in them, the weeds are effectively combated, and your lawn looks all the more luscious and green afterward.

Can I use weed and feed in summer?

Lawn care experts agree that the middle of summer is not the best time to use weed and feed products if you are wanting to fertilize a lawn. The products are designed to provide a dose of nutrients to the grass to help it grow strong, and also eliminate new weeds that are growing. They are often used by homeowners to help make a lawn green and thick and free from troublesome weeds. However, the peak of summer is not the ideal time to be using products designed for those intentions, as they are likely to not be as effective at either.

One of the reasons is that the grasses in the lawn are likely to be under a lot of stress from the high summer temperatures and can actually be harmed by the fertilizer elements. And, as Dan Bailey, president of Wikilawn, adds, it is the case of ‘if it’s already summer, the weeds are already here. Weed and feed should be used to kill weeds well before summer’. 

Ryan Farley, CEO of LawnStarter, agrees that ‘by summer most weeds are too far established to be affected by a weed killer or preventative, so you're better off saving your time and money’. 

He adds that midsummer is ‘too late to use a weed and feed product’ as they are not recommended to be used in temperatures above 85F. Though you may be able to technically apply them in the cooler temperatures of the mornings or evenings if they are not going to work on the weeds then is it worth the time, money, and effort?

Using weed and feed in early summer

While it is not recommended to use them in the middle of summer, there are merits to a potential early summer application of weed and feed as part of any ambitions to kill weeds but not grass. At this point, the weeds are actively growing and the temperatures haven’t reached high enough to make it potentially dangerous to use the product. 

Gene Caballero, the co-founder of GreenPal, claims that ‘if your lawn is in good health and you're contending with persistent summer weeds’ then an early summer application could be beneficial. He does warn that whenever considering weed and feed products, their usage and success depend greatly on the specific type of grass, the local climate, and the overall condition of your lawn. But if you do use it in early summer, when is the best time, and then how long should you wait until another application?

‘It's generally best not to apply more than twice a year, with each application several months apart. So, if you opt for a summer application, it's likely best to hold off on your next application until the fall, once the weather has cooled down’ says Gene.

‘In terms of the best time of day to apply weed and feed, my experience has shown me that early morning or late evening can work best. Cooler temperatures coupled with morning dew can enhance the efficiency of the product by helping the granules stick to the weed leaves. Additionally, it's key to ensure there's no rain predicted for at least 48 hours post-application, as rain could potentially wash away the product before it's had the chance to work.’

An example of a granulated weed and feed product that can be applied in late spring or early summer is the Pennington UltraGreen Weed & Feed Lawn Fertilizer, available at Amazon. It has the nutrients to promote a thick and green lawn and kills over 250 broadleaf weeds. This type of fertilizer requires a spreader to apply, like this Mini Broadcast Spreader, also available at Amazon.

A fall application can be integrated with other fall lawn maintenance tasks that all contribute to a luscious and beautiful lawn. For example, fall is also the ideal time to plant grass seed, as many of the best fast-growing grass seeds will germinate quickly at that time of year, and it is also an opportune time to scarify a lawn. 

Does weed and feed work in summer?

When the temperatures rise in the heat of summer, plants get stressed and do not want to absorb herbicides or fertilizers. This defense mechanism kicks in when the temperatures get too hot and adding feed then can actually damage them, as the excess salts from the fertilizer can build up around the roots and hamper the intake of water. A stressed lawn will not benefit from a feed, while at that stage of the season, the weeds will be too far established to be eradicated by the herbicide in the product. 

Advance Lawn Care agronomics expert Zach Pool warns: ‘People often think that during the stress of summer heat and drought, a weed will be easier to kill. However, the opposite is true. In periods of stress, the growth of many weeds begins to slow down. 

‘This reduces the absorption of the herbicide and the effect it has on the weed.’

Using weed and feed in the early stages of summer, before the high temperatures kick in, provides that window of opportunity to spread the product and hit the plants before their defense mechanism starts. It means the grasses are more open to taking in the feed and the weeds are at the early stages of their growth when the herbicide will be most effective.

All lawns are different and will respond to products in different ways. It is always recommended to stick the recommendations on any product’s label and also follow any cautions outlined. You can test a small patch of lawn before using a product on an entire lawn, or talk to a local lawn care expert to get their advice. 

Dangers of using weed and feed in the heat

As mentioned prior, it is not recommended to put down weed and feed at high temperatures as some of the herbicides used in such products can become volatile. Zach Pool warns how this can potentially pose risks to your own, or your neighbor’s, gardens.

He says: 'Some herbicides can volatilize, becoming a vapor that can drift off target. This off-target drift can go wherever the wind blows it. Maybe back into your lawn. Maybe in your neighbor's roses.’

Zach adds that lawns are under extreme stress during the heat of summer and any periods of intense heat and drought can push grass into dormancy. That is why you often do not have to be out cutting grass in hot weather as the plants stop growing when the temperatures peak.

Putting fertilizer onto stressed lawns vastly increases the chance of fertilizer burn, where you can get yellow patches in grass due to having more nutrients than they can process, as dormant turf is not able to take in or make use of any of the nutrients in the fertilizer. Essentially, it means that spreading the weed and feed can be a waste of time and potentially damaging to your lawn.

If you do want to kill weeds but not grass, then digging up weeds by hand is always an effective, but more laborious, option that can be done during the summer months. Regular mowing can also prevent many common weeds from taking over a lawn and aerating in spring and fall can also promote the growth of healthy grass. 

If you do have aerating and feeding planned as part of any regime, then do aerate the lawn before fertilizing. You also sow seed first in spring before feeding, so it is best to aerate, seed, and then fertilize a lawn in spring. 

Gardening takes a great deal of care and attention and we often spend ages learning the exact conditions needed to grow specific plants. But did you know that it also takes specific conditions to kill them?

As it turns out, there is a very specific time you should be spraying weed killer to get rid of weeds muddying your yard.

Here, professional gardeners have shared their advice for the best time to spray weed killers, right down to the perfect wind conditions.

The best time to spray weed killer 

When you are looking to kill weeds but not plants, or kill weeds but not grass, getting the right weather conditions can make all the difference between a targeted application, and an unfortunate patch of dead plants. 

‘Optimal weather conditions is a calm day with no wind or rain in the forecast,’ says Zahid Adan, a gardening expert at The Plant Bible. ‘Wind can carry the herbicide droplets to unintended areas, potentially damaging desirable plants or contaminating nearby water sources,’ he explains. 

Rain, on the other hand, can reduce the effectiveness of the weed killer by washing it away, and diluting it into the soil and limiting its potency. This is particularly true if you opt to make your own weed killer, or use a natural method such as using salt to kill weeds.

While it may seem silly that the time affects the plant's uptake of weed killer, gardening expert and CEO of GreenPal, Bray Clayton, suggests that early morning or late evening are the golden period for weed killing. 

‘During these hours, the outside temperatures are more moderate, which helps to prevent weed killer from evaporating too quickly, in the midday sun (even when it feels cooler in spring and fall),’ he says. ‘This is also when winds are more likely to be calmer, preventing any drift.’

We are also less likely to be spending time in our yards at these times, so we are not exposing ourselves to any weed spray that does carry from the plants towards our seating areas.

In terms of the best time of year to kill weeds, gardening experts resoundingly agree that spring or fall offer the best chance at targeting roots while they are at their weakest, and trying to tackle them in hot summers is a common weeding mistake many gardeners see. 

Tim Rumball, gardening expert and former editor of Amateur Gardening magazine explains that this is a good time because most perennial plants, including weeds, ‘are drawing goodness from their foliage back down into the roots to overwinter safely. If you can get weed killers into their systems at this point it will be much more effective in killing them.’

Even in periods of little wind, it is also advisable to wear a protective facemask and gloves,’ Tim continues. ‘Use a fine spray and wet weed leaves – don’t let spray drift! You should see signs of the weeds dying back within a week. After two weeks, rake off plant debris and bin or burn it. The ground should then be safe to cultivate and plant.'

FAQs

Although it may seem easy for some of us to kill plants without this kind of planning and preparation, weeds are incredibly stubborn growers. Along with spraying weeds to kill them, consider also pulling weeds by hand for a double attack on the pesky plants, as well as using cardboard for weed control to help trap the spray against the plant and block out sunlight for a surefire attack that is bound to render positive results. 

It's the interminable job faced by all gardeners everywhere. Yes, I'm talking about weed control. No matter how or where you garden, there will always be unwanted plants popping up in your flower beds, vegetable garden and even pots, taking precious nutrients from the plants you want to grow.

We previously posted a TikTok on how to make a homemade weed killer – and it went viral. It prompted many questions from our followers on how to make weed killer, and how to get rid of weeds, many of which we answer for you here.

We share an expert-approved recipe for how to make weed killer, which is particularly effective for removing weeds from pavers, and we have also spoken to gardening experts to find out what other methods you can use to keep garden weeds under control.

How to make weed killer

You can make weed killer using ingredients like vinegar, Epsom salts, baking soda, and dish soap – but this solution does come with caution.

'Baking soda, among other ingredients, can be used to kill weeds but you have to be careful how you use it because it can kill other plants it comes in contact with,' says Annette Hird, expert gardener at Easy Urban Gardens.

While it is a highly effective recipe, this weed killer requires careful application to avoid harming surrounding plants.

For our weed killer recipe, you will need:

• White vinegar (from Walmart)
• Epsom salts (from Walmart)
• Dish soap (from Walmart)
• Baking soda (from Walmart)
• A spray bottle (from Amazon)

How to make weed killer

The first thing you need to do is mix together two cups of vinegar, two cups of Epsom salts, one teaspoon of dish soap, and one teaspoon of baking soda. You can then pour this mixture into your empty spray bottle.

You should then apply it to weeds on a sunny day and leave it for 24 hours. You'll then need to treat the area every few days for around three weeks until the weeds have completely dried up.

Once the weeds have dried up and died, remove them with a weeding tool, like this one from Amazon, at the roots.

How do these ingredients kill weeds?

'Baking soda works to kill weeds in grass and elsewhere in the yard due to its salt content. The salt dries out the plant, making it difficult for that plant to uptake moisture, resulting in death,' says Rob Palmer, lawn expert at Lawn Squad.

For this reason, you can also apply baking soda directly to weeds.

'It's perfect for use on paths and driveways. You just sprinkle the baking soda in a thick layer and then sweep it into the cracks.,' says Annette. 'It should kill any small weeds already there and prevent new ones from coming up,' she adds.

As for using vinegar to kill weeds and dish soap, Rob explains: 'Vinegar is acidic, which can also aid in drying out the target plants. Adding dish soap to the mixture can help to better adhere the spray mix to the weeds.'

Epsom salts help by dehydrating and drying out weeds, much like using salt to kill weeds. Not only this, but Epsom salts deter groundhogs and can be used as a fungicide, preventing diseases spreading through the garden. This is thanks to it making soil more acidic, an unfavourable environment for fungi and weeds alike.

This tricky growing environment will then reduce the number of new weeds appearing and event prevent them coming back.

Does homemade weed killer harm other plants?

If you want to use your DIY weed killer to get rid of grass growing in flower beds or to kill weeds but not grass on a lawn, you will need to exercise caution.

'On the whole, this mix is OK to use, I have done it myself with success,' says Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor Drew Swainston. 'However, my caveats would be that homemade vinegar-based weed killer is best used on young weeds that have newly-sprouted.

'It quickly targets and kills the above-ground parts of the plant and is therefore best suited to young annuals. It will not be as effective on older weeds and perennial weeds, especially those with tap roots or well-established root systems.

'The above-ground foliage may die back, but the roots will still function and the weed will be able to regrow as a result,' continues Drew.

Baking soda comes with the same word of warning from Rob Palmer:

'Baking soda, when used for weed control, would be considered a non-selective type of weed control. This means that no matter if it is a weedy plant or a grass plant for example, baking soda will have similar effects on both the desirable and non-desirable plant species,' he says.

'Caution should also be taken when using Epsom salts on beds and borders, or around any other plants in the garden' Drew adds.

'Not only would you need to be extra cautious as the mixture could be harmful to any existing ornamental plants in the vicinity, but a build-up of salt in the soil will have a detrimental effect on the health of all plants in the area.'

FAQs

How do you permanently stop weeds from growing?

It is difficult to stop weeds from growing entirely, if not impossible. The best way to ensure your yard stays as weed-free as possible is to remove young weeds - roots and all - before they can take hold, to mulch your flower beds so that they are inhospitable to weeds, and to allow time for regular maintenance sessions from spring through to the end of the growing season.

DIY methods that contain vinegar, boiling water and salted water will kill the roots of young weeds. If you are looking for a quicker way to kill weeds yourself, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor, Drew Swainston, recommends a flame gun (from Amazon), something he has done in his work as a gardener. 'The heat quickly kills weeds,' he says. 'However, as ever, be careful not to accidentally damage the other plants in your flower beds.'

What homemade weed killers are safe to use on flower beds?

Using cardboard for weed control is a quick and safe way to suppress early weed growth, though be careful not to use cardboard that might have colored dyes, sticky residues or anything else that can run off into the soil. Remove it from the borders once the weeds have died back and you can get at their roots to remove them.

Mulching flowerbeds is another easy homemade DIY weed killer. 'You can smother weeds with a thick layer of mulch,' says Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor, Drew Swainston. 'The benefit of mulching is that it can also work to improve your flower beds' soil health. Mulch can range from homemade compost to leaf mold, gravel, and more, and all have their benefits.'

For us, making this weed killer to use on pavers and decks is a great solution. However, if you are looking to get rid of weeds on flower beds, the best and most permanent solution is hand removal followed by mulching.

Of course, some weeds do have wonderful uses if left to grow, including these flowering weeds for pollinators. They might make you think differently about some of your unwanted plants. In addition, consider picking some weeds to make a plant fertilizer using weeds, for a natural solution in your yard.

Shop weeding essentials

Gravel is a very common material used in many ways in backyards, ranging from a gravel driveway to a low-maintenance gravel garden. Wherever you have gravel, however, there are likely to be weeds trying to penetrate it.

Gravel is a popular landscaping material for paths, seating areas, or steps. Laying a membrane underneath is recommended to prevent weeds from growing up through the gravel, however, one may not always be in place and that opens the door to pesky weeds.

Thankfully, there are lots of suitable methods for getting rid of weeds from gravel. They can be dealt with by hand, by organic methods, or using chemicals. Though it is best to consider all alternative options before reaching for that bottle of weedkiller.

7 methods for getting rid of weeds in gravel

Whether you have a gravel garden or a gravel patio in your yard, or utilize the material for your pathways, weeds can become an issue. Gravel can be used successfully as part of many backyard landscaping ideas, but the look can quickly be tarnished if it becomes full of weeds. 

It is best to keep on top of weeds quickly, as letting them grow and spread their seeds only creates a multitude of further problems. 

We take a look at 7 methods for how to remove weeds from gravel.

1. Hand weed

Hand weeding can never be under-estimated as one of the best ways for dealing with weeds. Weeds can definitely be removed by hand from gravel, though it can be a time-consuming method to deal with a large area. 

The key is to remove the entire weed, holding the stem and gently levering it out to pull the entire root system out. If you just remove what is above the surface, the weed will resprout and come back. Use a garden tool such as a trowel or fork to get in under the weed in question and lever it out of the gravel, roots and all. If the weed snaps, then it might be time to dig in deeper with your hand tool in order to get the pesky roots. 

Thankfully, many self-seeding annual weeds will only shallow-root in gravel, so these should be easier to remove. Perennial weeds, ones that have been left to grow a while, and those with tap roots, might be more difficult to fully get out.

2. Use a hoe

If you don’t want to get down on your knees and hand weed, then there is the option to use a hoe to get rid of some weeds that will pop up in gravel. It will not be successful with all weeds as it will just take off their tops and, as mentioned above, the roots will re-sprout. 

There are some mat-forming annual weeds that will root thinly and be able to be removed using a garden hoe. But trying to hoe off perennial weeds is a common weeding mistake to avoid doing in your yard. 

A combination of a hoe and rake work well together to remove those shallow-rooted weeds, and it might be required to sift the gravel afterwards to fully remove the foliage.

3. Make a DIY weed spray

You can make homemade sprays to get rid of weeds in gravel, with one particularly successful one involving making a weed killer using vinegar. Mixing a gallon of vinegar with a cup of salt and a tablespoon of liquid dish soap can work wonders on unwanted weeds. 

Fill a spray bottle, available from Amazon, with the mixture and apply it to the offending weeds, ideally on a hot and dry morning and definitely not before rain is due as this will merely wash away the mixture. 

This form of homemade vinegar weed killer works best on young annual weeds and will not be as effective on older weeds or perennial weeds. It may also take repeated applications to take full effect.

4. Pour boiling water on weeds

The simple process of using boiling water can go some way to remove weeds from pavers or gravel, but it is potentially an inefficient method compared to others. For starters, anything more than a small patch of weeds would require multiple trips to and from the home with a kettle in hand. 

Pouring boiling water will only work on the youngest of weeds that have only just popped up in the gravel. That is because it will only kill the leafy part of the weed that you see above ground. Boiling water will not kill the roots of more established weeds and they are likely to resprout again from the underground roots. It is only marginally effective and potentially only a practical solution for a few newly emerged weeds on a small patch of gravel.

5. Try rock salt

Using salt to kill weeds is a method favored by many to get weeds out of gravel. Rock salt is regarded as a great weedkiller as it dehydrates plants, interrupts the weed’s internal water balance, and can dessicate the unwanted intruders within days. While the build-up of salt in soil can prevent plants from growing, this may not be seen as a negative when it comes to gravel areas. 

To apply rock salt on weeds, sprinkle a small amount at the base, only a few bits will do, and it should kill the weed within only a few days. An alternative is to dissolve 1 cup of rock salt in 1 gallon of water and then spray the mixture onto weeds, or lightly scatter the salt over gravel walkways.

6. Use a flame weeder

A flame weeder can be used to kill weeds, though it will need to be done carefully. A flame gun consists of a wand connected to a tank and it blasts the weed with a burning flame that heats the plant and ultimately kills it. Each weed only needs to be touched for a matter of seconds to kill it. 

It is an environmentally safe form of weeding. It will completely kill all parts of annual weeds, but does only fully kill the above-ground part of perennial weeds, not the roots. The roots are damaged by the partial burning but weeds with long tap roots may need multiple goes with the flame weeder.

You need to exercise caution when using a flame weeder as there is potential to burn other plants around the gravel area and it can pose a danger to people or animals. It can also leave burn marks that could be an issue if you have light colored gravel. 

An alternative is that you can also get electric thermal weeders, which do not have a flame but can shock weeds with heat of around 1200˚F. This reduces any risk of fires as there is actually no flame. One example of such a tool is the Saycker Electric Thermal Weeder, available at Amazon.

7. Remove gravel weeds with chemicals

All-too-often, the first response for many home gardeners is to reach for the chemical weedkiller to combat unwanted weeds. There are many chemical products available on the market that will kill weeds. To make sure you only kill the weeds and not plants, make sure to choose a selective weed killer that is designed to kill a particular plant, otherwise a non-selective weed killer will kill everything it comes into contact with. Weedkillers may take up to five days to take full effect. 

Reaching for the chemical bottles should be a last resort as it does expose you, and your family, to potentially harmful chemicals and glyphosate, a common ingredient in most weedkillers, is found to be harmful to health. Never use weedkillers near plants that are being grown to be eaten.

FAQs

The main message to take for dealing with weeds in gravel is to get them early. All of the methods outlined here work on small weeds, however the longer you leave them the more your options reduce. And by letting them seed over the gravel you are then encouraging a new generation of weeds to come to the fore. Hand weeding remains the best way to remove weeds in gravel, if done at the right time it is quick and it is effective. Try to leave chemicals to always be the last resort. 

Q: I have an ongoing issue with common chickweed in my backyard – and this year it's spread from my flower beds to the vegetable patch nearby. What can I do to get rid of it for good?

A: Chickweed (Stellaria media) is a common weed with white, very short-lived flowers. Although annoying, it's one of the easier interlopers to deal with, as you may be pleased to hear. It's an annual with no stubborn roots to dig up – unlike dandelions. However, it completes numerous life cycles within one growing year, as Lucy Chamberlain, a fruit-and-veg-growing expert reveals. During this time, it produces a huge amount of seeds, which means it spreads rapidly. 'It’s also relatively hardy,' she adds.

There are ways to tackle it, though – as this guide explains – just try to take action as soon as possible to stop it from getting out of hand.

3 ways to deal with chickweed in your flower and veg beds

Take control of your chickweed infestation with these tips.

1. Remove chickweed by hand

True, getting rid of weeds by hand requires a bit of time and effort, but if you use a 'little and often' approach, it won't feel so overwhelming. Plus, it's much better for wildlife and the surrounding plants than using herbicides. 

A garden hoe, such as Spear & Jackson's Stainless Steel Dutch Hoe from Amazon, is perfect for slicing through annuals such as these, but ensure you do so before the plants have produced seed. That way, you won't accidentally spread more seeds around as you cut them down, and the young, leafy growth can be disposed of on the compost heap.

2. Cover the weeds up

Layering a heavy layer of mulch over these weeds can be enough to kill any young seedlings and stop seeds from germinating. 

The Royal Horticultural Society recommends using opaque plastic sheeting to smother them – try this ECOgardener Premium 5oz Weed Barrier Landscape Fabric from Amazon. You can then cover the top with compost or bark chippings to improve the aesthetics. 

A layer of organic matter by itself can also help to suppress milder cases, but ensure it's at least 3in thick, as they advise.

3. Embrace it as an edible

You don't have to remove all the common chickweed in your plot – some gardeners choose to embrace it for its edible qualities.

'The soft, buttery texture of chickweed means it can be eaten both raw and cooked,' says Lucy Chamberlain. 'Indeed, the best way to eat it is as a salad leaf because, once cooked, it wilts down to almost nothing in the same way that spinach does.

'To harvest plants, cut off all palatable growth using scissors. Gently wash to remove traces of soil and snip into biteable chunks. The flavor is mild, so use it as a bulking agent for more peppery leaves such as watercress and chicory,' Lucy continues. Ensure you only harvest plants from areas where pesticides and herbicides have not been used. 'If ever you needed an excuse not to weed your plot too thoroughly, here it is!' she says.

Not only this, but chickweed seeds are also a good source of food for wildlife, including birds and insects, so allowing some to remain in your plot can help make it more wildlife-friendly.

FAQs

As with most weeds, common chickweed can be dealt with effectively with a little patience and perseverance. Or enjoyed in a salad – the choice is yours!

Dallisgrass, otherwise known as Paspalum dilitatum, is a fast-growing, clump-forming, perennial weed. It crops up in lawns, particularly in southern states, and is notoriously tricky to control, especially as it becomes more established.

However, if you've spotted this interloper in your yard, don't despair – a full lawn renovation may not be necessary. If you catch it early, and proceed with consistency and vigilance, there are things that can be done to get rid of this weed, as this guide explains.

3 ways to tackle dallisgrass in a backyard

Keep your lawn pristine with these top tips from the experts.

1. Dig it up by hand

Removing weeds by hand can be time-consuming, but it's much more eco-friendly than using pesticides. Plus, it's a good way to ensure you don't damage the surrounding plants and grass.

Keith Sant, a home and landscaping expert from Texas Cash House Buyer, suggests digging up the entire clump using a spade or trowel. Wear gloves to protect your hands and check carefully for any remaining roots left over in the soil and remove these, too. Dispose of it as garden waste rather than putting it on your compost heap, as the latter could cause it to spread around your yard. If you've removed dallisgrass from your flower bed, cover the area in a layer of mulch afterward, to prevent it from coming back.

Fresh compost and new grass seed can then be put down to repair the lawn patches.

2. Use a herbicide

If you're after a quicker fix to a dallisgrass infestation, then applying a post-emergence herbicide could be your answer. 'This should be done when the plant is actively growing and not under any stress from drought or extreme temperatures,' says Keith. This means avoiding applying it when temperatures are above 85°F, according to Patrick Grayson, the Founder & CEO of Paramount Property Buyers.

As John Stephens, Chief Editor of Total Gardener says, there are several herbicides available for the job, including Celsius WG (available from Amazon). 'These chemicals come with guides on how they must be applied to be effective,' he adds – it's important to follow these carefully and wear protective clothing. Note that you will generally need to repeat the application to clear the weed – sometimes for multiple years.

If you use a glyphosate herbicide, such as Roundup's Weed & Grass Killer from Amazon, bear in mind that it is non-selective. Because of this, take extreme care not to get it on the surrounding grass, as it will kill any plant it comes into contact with. As with removal by hand, ensure leftover bare patches are sown with grass seed to help prevent further infestations.

3. Create a prevention plan

Prevention is often easier than cure – so taking steps to stop it from growing in the first place, or coming back, is always a good idea.

'Practicing consistent, regular lawn maintenance is the best method for controlling this weed,' says Lindsey Hyland, the Founder of Urban Organic Yield. This entails mowing the lawn frequently and applying pre-emergence herbicides, she says. Pre-emergence herbicides, which include the likes of pendimethalin and isoxaben, should be applied prior to the first rain or irrigation event in early spring, advises Keith. They will kill any germinating seeds. Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer, available from Amazon, is one example.

'The growth of dallisgrass is an indicator that you may have compacted soil,' adds Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love. 'To see if your soil is compacted, grab a screwdriver or a sharp knife. If you can’t stick the tool in the soil with only light pressure, you may have compacted soil. 

'If you have compacted soil, aeration is your best bet,' he continues. 'To core-aerate your lawn is to use a machine that will open up your soil so that nutrients, water, and air circulate better. This leads to stronger roots and healthier grass that outcompetes stubborn weeds like dallisgrass.'

Fertilizing your lawn, scarifying, and watering it properly are also important for luscious turf – which will make it harder for weeds to take hold.

Dallisgrass is certainly one of the tougher weeds to tackle, but where there's a will there's a way, as they say. And if the problem has gotten to the point where digging up the whole lawn seems simpler – perhaps now could be a good time to install some stylish (and much more low-maintenance) no-grass backyard ideas.

Q: I love to grow vegetables in my garden and I use an organic approach. However, I find that endlessly weeding the beds by hand takes up a lot of time and gets quite tiresome. I've recently heard that a stale seedbed can be an effective and eco-friendly way to tackle them – how does it work and is it worth a go?

A: A stale seedbed is an old technique for getting rid of weeds and is used both domestically and on a commercial scale. The idea is that you allow the non-dormant weed seeds in the top layers of soil to germinate. Then, once the weeds have established and grown three leaves, you remove them – being careful not to disturb the soil too much – before direct-sowing your chosen crop. This means that you've cleared out the competition and it should reduce the ongoing need to weed.

Although some gardeners use herbicides to wipe out the weeds that emerge, it isn't a necessity as you can use a hoe to remove them instead – which is much better for a more wildlife-friendly garden.

A 3-step guide to making a stale seedbed

Lucy Chamberlain, a gardening expert, shares her step-by-step guide to making a stale seedbed at home:

1. Identify a sunny, sheltered spot in your veg plot that would lend itself well to early sowings under cloches. Dig it over well and rake thoroughly to remove large stones and break up soil clods. Secure rigid plastic or glass cloches over the bed.
2. Leave the cloches in place until a rash of weed seedlings appears under them (this could take anything from one to three weeks, depending on outdoor temperatures). Once well-emerged, shallowly hoe the weeds off, then replace the cloches.
3. With the soil surface and upper layers now clear of weed seeds and seedlings, sow your chosen crop. Again, resist the temptation to disturb the soil too much as this brings more weed seeds to the surface.

FAQs

If you're fed up with weeds, why not give this technique a go when preparing your garden for spring? It could make your backyard maintenance much quicker and easier in the long run.

Q: I have two large flower beds in my backyard that are full of perennial shrubs and herbaceous flowers. With the arrival of warmer weather, I've noticed that weeds have started to crop up wherever they can. Not only do they look unsightly, but I'm also worried they will steal precious nutrients from the soil and smother the surrounding plants. How can I tackle them safely, without causing damage to the ones that are actually meant to be there?

A: When getting rid of weeds in closely-packed flower beds, you need to act quickly but with caution. The safest methods are the ones that give you the most control – so if possible, try and prise them out by hand by the roots, using a small hand trowel. This multifunctional Berry&Bird tool from Amazon is perfect for the job. Try to avoid disturbing the roots of nearby plants. This is also a good way to tackle lawn weeds without killing the grass.

It's easier said than done for some types of weeds, however. For instance, quackgrass forms a network of scrambling rhizomes deep beneath the surface of the soil, and even if you leave a tiny fraction of it in there, it will try to regrow. But for the trickier interlopers, there are other actions you can take.

Applying mulch to suppress weeds

Whether using compost, shredded bark, leaf mold, or some other type of mulch, applying a relatively thick layer all over your flower beds in spring can help to smother weeds before they get a chance to take hold. What's more, such organic mulches will add nutrients to the soil as they break down. Keep it away from the stems of your plants, otherwise it can encourage them to rot.

For the weeds that have already sprouted, try and remove as many as you can by hand before mulching. Dig up the easier ones by the roots, and cut the rest down using a small hoe. Keep an eye on the area and repeat this if any poke their way through the mulch – with time, the roots should hopefully exhaust themselves and the weeds will die.

Using herbicides in flower beds

Some perennial weeds that have already established leafy growth – such as thistles, docks, dandelions and bindweed – are best dealt with by herbicide spray, says John Negus, a garden expert from Homes & Gardens.

'The best weedkillers to use are those with glyphosate as their active ingredient,' he says. These travel down to the roots, killing the whole plant. However, John explains that these are non-selective and will kill any plant they come into contact with, so you'll need to be very careful not to spray any plants you wish to keep.

Check the weather before you apply. Rain and wind can make the spray wash into or drift towards your garden plants and kill them, too, John warns. If you're really concerned, you could carefully wrap your plants in plastic sheeting before applying the weed killer, he continues, which should take a week or two to work. Reapply the herbicide if new leaves appear.

For a bit more control, John suggests using a gel formula, such as Roundup Precision Gel, available on Amazon, which is dabbed or painted onto the leaves. 'This takes away the risk of the spray drifting and means you can tackle just those plants you wish to get rid of.'

Alternatively, you could remove the plants you want to keep and plant them in a quarantined bed, making sure that there are no weeds mixed in with the roots. This is much more time-consuming, though, and some plants may suffer from transplant shock.

Adding ground cover plants

Another way to reduce the number of weeds growing in borders is to fill in gaps with ground-cover plants. These will grow to create a carpet that will block sunlight and water from any weed seeds, preventing them from germinating.

As long as the area has good light, John recommends the following: Cotoneaster ‘Coral Beauty’ (an evergreen with white summer flowers and a profusion of bright-orange berries); Cotoneaster dammeri (an equally zestful ground-cover plant that is evergreen and prized for its reflective red berries); and Lonicera pileata (a rampant spreader with box-like green leaves). Just check they're not considered invasive plants in your area, first.

It's almost impossible to avoid the odd weed from growing in flower beds, but it's not a reason to despair. As long as you try to remove them as quickly as possible and stay vigilant, you'll be able to keep your borders looking their best.

It's that time of year when our gardens begin to come alive, but along with spring shoots appearing in our borders come weeds. 

Getting rid of weeds is a chore that can't just be done once a year, but if you find yourself constantly losing the battle with invasive, uninvited plants, it could be that it's the way you are weeding that's causing weeds to return, time and again, in even greater numbers.

We asked gardening expert Lucy Chamberlain for her tips on the weed control mistakes to avoid. First she explained why weeds need to be kept in check: 'Certain weeds seem harmless and some, like this yellow oxalis (above), even look pretty, but don’t be fooled – they can be tenacious and spread rapidly if unchecked. A single fat hen plant can yield 60,000 seeds, and the roots of perennial weeds like dock can survive even if broken into fragments.

'Don’t worry, these weeds can be thwarted!' These are the weeding habits Lucy urges gardeners to change, and what to do instead.

Weeding mistakes all gardeners should avoid

'Weeds steal root space, light, water and nutrients from your fruit and vegetables. They can also harbor pests, diseases and viruses – it’s no wonder we’re constantly waging a war on weeds!' says Lucy.

1. Not knowing your enemy

'So how do we get results? First, get to know your enemy – there are two main types of weed: those that attack from above ground, and those that strike from beneath the earth,' says Lucy.

'Annual weeds thrive due to their ability to produce masses of seeds, and their short life cycles. Just one fat hen plant can yield 60,000 seeds, and these can remain dormant in the soil for 20 years. Annual weeds are often termed "ephemeral", meaning they can complete more than one life cycle (germinate, grow, set seed and die) in a year. Good examples of these "live fast, die young" plants include hairy bittercress and chickweed.

'Explosive (oxalis) or feathery (sow thistle) seed capsules that help disperse seeds over a wide area are key traits, as is the ability to quickly germinate in cooler soils. Common annual weeds are chickweed, fat hen, groundsel, hairy bittercress, shepherd’s purse, annual meadowgrass, annual nettle, opium poppy, yellow oxalis, prickly sow thistle. 

'Perennial weeds have incredible powers of rejuvenation. If you’ve rotavated a couch grass-ridden plot in an attempt to clear it, you’ll understand. Their creeping roots and stems contain numerous buds that burst into rampant growth, even when broken into fragments. Deep roots make the most of soil moisture reserves, and can lay dormant in droughts and freezes.

'Field bindweed roots dive deeper as the plant ages (3ft in the first year, 13ft in the third). Common perennial weeds are horsetail, ground elder, field bindweed, Japanese knotweed, dock, dandelion, creeping thistle, stinging nettle, couch grass and creeping buttercup.'

2. Turning soil

No dig gardening isn't just a fad. Those seeds dispersed in the past can lay dormant in your soil, and what they love is air, water and light. One way you can deprive them of this is not to turn over your soil in spring. 

'No-dig plots encourage weed seeds to congregate on or just below the soil surface,' says Lucy. 'While this makes it easy for them to germinate, it’s simply a case of hoeing them off (or using a flame gun, below). Deep digging can store up a troublesome weed seed population.'

Instead, lightly hoe out young weeds (not established perennials). On a sunny day you leave the hoed weeds to wither and die on the flowerbed before raking them out or gathering them up.

3. Hoeing the tops off perennials

'Hoeing the tops off perennial weeds makes them worse, as side buds that were laying dormant will be encouraged into growth,' says Lucy. 

Instead, getting rid of perennial or established weeds right down to their roots is key.

'Certain perennial weeds are straightforward to dig out, giving total removal if you’re thorough (nettles and ground elder are two examples). Deeper-rooted species like bindweed and horsetail can be weakened by scrupulous, repeated removal. Tenacity is key!'

Good maintenance habits are key, this is true of borders, and for killing weeds but not grass.

4. Pulling weeds by hand

Pulling weeds by hand is a real mistake because after a very short time you will tire and lose interest. Plus, if you're going to pull weeds by hand, it's likely that you will snap the weed off at the stem, leaving the roots in place. Instead, tool up.

A hand hoe is best for raised beds, for removing weeds from between pavers or for tight spots, while a long-handled one will suit ground-level weeding, and save you back ache! Light hoeing of top soil should dislodge the roots of most weeds; those that have deeper roots will need digging out with a trowel.

5. Pulling weeds at the wrong time

The best time of day to pull weeds is on a morning or evening when the soil is a little looser. Hard, dry or compacted soil will make weeding much more difficult and more likely to result in weed roots being left behind, or you being defeated by the job. 

6. Making beds and borders inaccessible

'Keep beds narrow so you can easily access them with a hoe from all sides. Hoeing is an excellent way to get rid of annual weeds – do this while they are still tiny (before any seeds set), choosing a sunny day with a slight breeze.'

7. Not using weed control methods

'Plant crops through sheet mulches (polythene or weed control fabric) or lay down thick (1½in) organic mulches. These make it difficult for weeds to establish, and sheet mulches also provide a physical barrier to stop most perennial weeds emerging,' says Lucy.

Mulching is powerful but you don't need to buy sheet mulches; you can use cardboard for weed control. Be aware that sheet mulches don't totally solve a weed problem, because weeds can take hold in the soil or mulch you lay on top, plus they can make adding new plants difficult, and over time will degrade so will need replacing over time. Sometimes, adding a thick layer of mulch, even using straw in the garden, is enough to deprive budding weeds of the light they need to grow.

Walmart has a wide range of mulches including sheets and wood chips.

8. Not using a flame gun

'Flame guns are a great way to quickly control a rash of annual weed seedlings (perfect for those of us who get bad backs while hoeing). They can be costly, but blow torches are just as effective. Simply wave over the weeds for a second or two, there’s no need to cremate them!'

9. Watering from above

Be aware that watering plants with a watering can or hosepipe will mean that you are watering weeds, too. So, if you are serious about gardening, considering investing in a soaker hose or drip line which sits beneath the soil and reaches the roots of plants, not those of newly-establishing weedlings.

10. Leaving too much space between plants

'Transplanting rosette-like crops such as lettuces, chicory and endive in tight grids allows them to quickly form a weed-suppressing carpet of leaves, stopping annual weeds from taking hold. Potatoes and trailing squashes also make excellent cover.'

11. Not using transplants

'Steal a march on weed seed germination by using transplants [young plants that establish and grow more quickly than seedlings],' says Lucy. 'These quickly establish and romp away, allowing them to out-compete any emerging weed seedlings. Chitting veg seed before sowing it also helps crops compete for space.'

12. Not using cloches for seedlings

'When sowing directly into the earth, cover over part of the drill with a cloche or sheet of glass. The extra warmth provided forces those few seeds to emerge rapidly. Blowtorch the whole area so all weeds are killed, then the crop emerges unhindered.'

Walmart has a wide selection of cloches in varying sizes and materials.

13. Using weed killers

As you can see, you don't need to use weed killers to get your weed invasion under control. And if you are looking to garden organically, have young children or inquisitive pets, or simply want to avoid using chemicals that pollute soil and waterways (which we would advise), you should try to weed without weed killers. 

However, if you do decide to use weed killers, you should first ensure that you protect plants nearby, never use a liquid spray in windy, sunny or wet weather (it will be blown or washed away or will evaporate before it can do its job), and ensure the weed killer you are using is suited to the job in hand.

14. Not protecting borders out of season

'When clearing your plot in the fall, or if leaving certain beds bare in the spring, sow a smothering green manure such as alfalfa, clover or grazing rye. Annual weeds won’t be able to germinate, and your soil benefits from the manure, too!'

15. Leaving it too long

Younger weeds are much easier to hoe or blowtorch out than those that have established, and it's vital to get to them before they flower, set seed and establish a root system, which will make the problem so much worse. So as soon as your garden begins to awaken, get outdoors and start picking off weeds – and keep up the habit.

FAQs

So, as Lucy demonstrates, making weeding mistakes is easy, but it can result in a much worse problem than you had before. And while it's labor-intensive to get on top of a weed problem, the earlier you tackle it, the easier it will be, and all without chemicals. And while there are some hacks, such as killing weeds with salt or using vodka to kill weeds, old fashioned manual labor is best. 

When weeds pop up in your otherwise spotless lawn there can be a brief moment of despair. Most products or DIY home hacks targeted towards getting rid of weeds can also damage grass too, so we gardeners are often left with the question of how to kill weeds but not grass?

Even if your lawn has become riddled with pernicious plants, there is no reason to give up on achieving a perfect patch of grass this summer. Simply by adapting how you get rid of weeds will help you towards a lush lawn in no time, experts say.

We have spoken to gardening professions, who explain six simple ways you can relieve your lawn of weeds without killing off any precious grass.

How to kill weeds but not grass 

‘Before you can effectively remove weeds from your lawn, you need to know what types of weeds exist in your garden,’ begins David Angelov, master gardener at Plant Parenthood. While this will depend on where you live and your US hardiness zone, in general, there are 'two main types of weeds: annual and perennial,' David adds. 'Annual weeds grow and die within a single growing season, while perennial weeds come back year after year.’

Annual weeds, such as bittercress, are easier to control as they are shallow-rooted, whereas perennial weeds, such as dandelions, can have deep tap roots, making them trickier to control. Always adjust your approach depending on the weed. For example, annual weeds can probably be removed by hand, whereas perennial weeds might need a weeding tool.

There are many different options to control weeds in your grass, but there are also some to avoid. For example, using salt to kill weeds is too harsh for your grass, while using cardboard for weed control leaves unsightly brown patches. Here, we share some alternative suggestions.

1. Dig weeds up by hand

If you take pride in your lawn, then you will likely be used to tasks such as aerating a lawn and scarifying a lawn. You may, then, be unsurprised to hear that one of the best ways of removing weeds from grass without damaging it is to do it manually.

'To get weeds out of grass without damaging the turf, one of the simplest and most effective options is to remove them by hand,' says Drew Swainston, a former professional gardener and Content Editor for Homes & Gardens. 'This allows you to focus on each weed one by one and make sure you remove the full weed and its root to prevent it from coming back.'

Removing weeds by hand is a good approach for annual weeds, such as bittercress or oxalis, as they have shallow roots. Using your fingers you can be sure to remove all of the plant and root system. This is not the best approach, however, when it comes to perennial weeds, and doing this by hand can be time-consuming and ineffective.

2. Dig up weeds using specialized tools

‘When you are dealing with perennial weeds, such as dandelions and plantain, both common lawn weeds, failure to remove the roots will result in it growing back again quickly,' says Drew. 'For this reason, it is a good idea to use specialized tools that will make sure the weed is successfully removed.

'Scour the lawn for weeds, take hold of each one firmly, and pull the whole plant out. If needed, use a garden fork or garden weeder, available at Amazon to get underneath the weed and lever it out of the lawn. The grass will quickly grow to fill any space left by the weed.’

When using weeding tools on your lawn, always take care to cause as little damage as possible. While the lawn will repair itself, a patchy lawn area full of brown holes is not ideal. When I was removing dandelions from my lawns many years ago, the result looked something like a yard full of molehills... so always take your time!

3. Fertilize your lawn

'You may also want to consider fertilizing your lawn to help repair a lawn full of weeds and moss,' says David Angelov of Plant Parenthood.

The main offenders on lawns are daisies, buttercups, clover, and moss. The best way to deal with them organically is to improve the health of your lawn and encourage vigorous grass growth – try feeding, and aerating with a garden fork, such as this model from Amazon. While aerating using a garden fork is hard work (but good exercise!) your lawn will thank you for it. When I tend to do this, I ask for some help from my gardening neighbor. Many hands make the job a lot quicker!

Following this, it is a good idea to scarify your lawn before feeding to improve health. Try using a good quality rake - this model from Amazon is top-rated. Aerating and scarifying will help to improve the overall health and vitality of your lawn.

Lawn weed killers to rid your yard of thick weeds are often combined with feed and can be sprinkled or sprayed over your lawn. Apply to lawns any time between April and September when weeds are actively growing – don't apply more than twice in a year and leave a three-month interval in between.

One final word of caution, however, using grass feed at different times of the year will cause a build-up of chemicals in your soil. For this reason, why not try an organic grass fertilizer, available from Walmart?

4. Reseed your lawn

Planting grass seed and overseeding bare areas can help to get your lawn looking right while also limiting opportunities for weeds. ‘A healthy lawn is less likely to have weed problems,’ explains David Angelov of Plant Parenthood.

If there are bare patches on your lawn, weeds can find a way to germinate. For this reason, rapid reseeding can keep your grass growing and keep weeds at bay.

5. Keep on top of mowing

If your grass is being taken over by common lawn weeds such as dandelions, one of the easiest ways to prevent them from growing and spreading is to let your lawn mower do the hard work for you.

‘Make sure to mow your lawn regularly and not cut it too short, as well as watering it deeply, but infrequently,' explains David Angelov of Plant Parenthood. 'A rough level of one to two inches is best.'

If your lawn mower has a mulching option where it spreads the grass clippings straight back onto the lawn to feed the grass, it's important not to use this option when weeds such as dandelions are setting seed in mid to late spring. All you'll succeed in doing is spreading the seeds back into your grass.

A better option would be to keep the bagging attachment on your mower and get rid of the grass clippings that contain the seedheads instead.

6. Dethatch your lawn

Thatch is a layer of dead grass and debris that accumulates on the soil surface. Without regular maintenance, thatch will cause your lawn to suffer, giving weeds a chance to germinate.

Regular dethatching of your lawn will keep you ahead of the weed game. When considering the question how often should you dethatch a lawn, it is best to reach for your rake in early spring or fall. Dethatching at these times will help to give your lawn a boost and keep weeds at bay.

7. Sprinkle on corn gluten meal

Sprinkling a layer of corn gluten meal over your lawn will benefit the lawn itself (a by-product of corn starch and corn syrup production, it contains protein and nitrogen), and is said to suppress weed germination.

Corn gluten meal is non-toxic to humans and animals, and is most effective if applied in late March to mid-April, a month or so before crabgrass starts to germinate. Sprinkle liberally, water, then let the soil dry out. You can buy Johnathan Green corn gluten meal lawncare products from Walmart.

8. Aerate your lawn

Aerating a lawn promotes healthy grass roots and growth, and decompacts soil, which in turn discourages weed growth. You can aerate with spikes or plugs (see below).

Aerating before fertilizing will give your grass an even better chance of thriving, but if weeds are a problem, consider a fertilizer/weed killer combined. You can use a spreader (see below) to do this last part of the job evenly and efficiently.

9. Use a selective weed killer

'If you are going to go down the route of using a weed killer to get rid of weeds on your lawn, make sure you opt for a specific lawn weed killer,' says Ruth Hayes, gardening contributing editor on Homes & Gardens. There is a range of weed killers on the market, including several homemade varieties such as weed killers using vinegar and Epsom salts, but many are not suitable for use on otherwise healthy grass.

'Using a general-purpose weed killer will kill the grass as well as any weeds, and ruin your lawn in the process,’ Ruth continues. ‘Weed killer is either combined with a moss killer and lawn food or as a stand-alone product,’ she adds.

‘Selective herbicides are designed to kill specific types of weeds while leaving the surrounding grass unharmed,’ continues David Angelov or Plant Parenthood. ‘Look for a product that is labeled for the specific types of weeds in your lawn and follow the instructions carefully. There are different chemical concentrations for broad-leaf weeds vs narrow-leaf weeds.' A good option is the Ortho weed killer for lawns, available from Walmart.

Always do your research before applying any weed killer, and find a product that is right for you. For example, many specialized weed killers for grass can evaporate within 24-72 hours, and so your yard and soil will be free of weed killers in a matter of days. However, some products can remain in your soil for long periods, and can impact nearby plants, so always speak to an assistant at your local garden store before buying any products.

'It’s important to apply herbicides when the weeds are actively growing and the temperature is not too hot. I recommend doing so in the spring or fall,’ Ruth adds.

In addition, many weed killers can injure pets, so always read the label to assess if your dogs and cats should remain indoors to avoid any dangerous chemicals.

FAQs

Will vinegar kill weeds but not grass?

Vinegar is a strong acid which will kill the weed, and any plant matter (including grass) around it. When using vinegar to kill weeds, ensure it is not in an area you want to preserve, and that the vinegar only touches the weed you are trying to treat.

Does boiling water kill weeds?

Many gardeners ask can boiling water kill weeds. While boiling water can kill the foliage of the plant or the parts it comes into contact with, it will not kill the roots, leaving the weed to return within a few weeks. As a result, it is not advised to use plain boiling water as a weed killer – especially in areas of your yard surrounded by grass.

Does weed killer affect insects and pollinators?

While weed killers can be a gardener's best friend for controlling invasive plants and unwanted weeds, they can also cause untold damage to local insects, birds, bees and butterflies. In general, weed killers are not wildlife friendly, and most native weeds have a symbiotic relationship with local pollinators, so always use weed killers with care and caution, applying only what is necessary.

What should you do with lawn clippings after applying weedkiller?

It is important to suitably handle lawn clippings after applying weed killer. Never add these clippings to your compost heap, at least for 3 mowings. You can keep a separate pile of these clippings, and add them to your heap after 9-12 months. Alternatively, you can dispose of these clippings in a green waste refuse collection.

Now you are fully armed with all the professional advice on how to kill weeds but not grass, you can discover what needs to be on a spring lawn care checklist and ensure your lawn is lush and healthy all year long. For your borders, consider the best plants to stop weeds, such as lamb's ears, which will fill your beds with lovely blooms and crowd out pesky weeds.

When it comes to achieving the perfect lawn, weeds often stand in the way. With household hacks and tips becoming more popular amongst gardeners who want to avoid chemicals and use what they already have, some have been asking if vodka really does kill weeds.

When it comes to getting rid of weeds, a number of household hacks already exist, from using salt to kill weeds to using cardboard for weed control. Using vodka to kill weeds is certainly out there, and perhaps a little expensive. But does it work? 

Here, we have spoken to gardening experts for their opinions on using vodka to kill weeds so you can treat your garden.

Does vodka kill weeds? 

Surprisingly, vodka can be used to kill weeds efficiently. ‘While it’s a bit unusual and may seem like a waste of perfectly good alcohol, clear spirits are a common pantry staple that can help remove weeds from your lawn. Dilute your tipple of choice (we’d recommend vodka or gin) with water and spray it onto the problem area,’ says Carlos Real, lawn care expert at Total Lawn.

‘Vodka can be used in place of herbicides to kill broad-leaf weeds, such as dandelions,’ explains Jen McDonald, a certified organic garden specialist and co-founder of Garden Girls, a garden design company based in Houston. ‘A garden cocktail consisting of one-ounce vodka, two cups of water, and a few drops of Castile dish soap will do the trick. Serve it up in a spray bottle and apply directly to weeds on a sunny day. The vodka and sunlight will scorch the weeds, making them easier to pull within a few days.’ 

 Why is vodka an effective way to kill weeds?  

‘Alternative weed control is something I teach my clients, and there are several excellent methods, one being the use of vodka,’ Liz Will, certified garden coach and garden consultant, and founder of Learn to Grow Gardens concurs. ‘The vodka mixture will remove the waxy, protective coating from the surface of the weeds, allowing the sunlight to penetrate and dry out the leaves, effectively killing the plant.’

Using vodka may not be the most ideal way to make a lawn green and thick, however, warns Liz. ‘This spray is non-selective, which means it will kill any plants it comes in contact with. Care should be taken to protect nearby plants or grass.’ 

How to use vodka against weeds and protect my plants? 

‘As for using vodka directly in your grass or garden bed, without harming surrounding grass or flowers, the mixture can be painted onto weeds with a small brush,’ suggests Liz Will, certified garden coach and garden consultant, and founder of Learn to Grow Gardens. ‘This method works especially well for broadleaf weeds on the lawn, like dandelions and plantain. Painting the mixture on will keep it from drifting onto nearby grass and plants and causing them to dry out and wither, as well.’ 

Because of the delicate approach needed, using vodka on weeds in grass such as getting rid of crabgrass is not recommended due to the heightened possibility of it affecting the plant matter around it. 

Because of its damaging effects, vodka may be used to get rid of weeds from pavers with ease as it will not damage the stone. 

What kills weeds permanently?

‘An alternative to using vodka would be industrial strength white vinegar, which can be found in any home improvement store,’ recommends Liz Will, certified garden coach and garden consultant, and founder of Learn to Grow Gardens. ‘Look for 20% acetic acid. It can be used interchangeably with vodka.' 

Consider making a weed killer from vinegar and Epsom salts for the ultimate weed-killing concoction at home. 

‘As for selective weed killers that can be sprayed on lawns and weeds simultaneously, without harming the grass, there are not many options and many can require multiple applications to completely eradicate weeds. Otherwise, you will end up with patches in grass.

‘In order to kill weeds without harming the grass, I recommend seeking out the most organic methods possible,’ continues Jen McDonald, a certified organic garden specialist and co-founder of Garden Girls. ‘Children, pets, and herbicides just don’t mix! Rather than using chemicals, look to corn gluten meal. Not only is corn gluten meal safe for use around animals and humans, it gives your lawn and nearby plants a boost in nitrogen, which improves soil health. It also prevents new weeds from germinating.’

‘Your best bet is prevention, and then early intervention when weeds are still young,’ Liz adds.

Will alcohol kill weeds?

Alcohol will kill weeds, but ‘the best preventative method is to keep your lawn healthy and well maintained,’ explains Carlos Real, lawn care expert at Total Lawn. ‘While it won’t stop weeds from growing altogether, a healthy lawn will be more aggressive when fighting off weeds – the grass is very competitive and will overpower weeds all on its own most of the time.’

‘Feeding, aerating, and scarifying your grass will help it to continue to grow healthily, and you can maintain this health by mowing, feeding, and watering it regularly. As soon as you spot a weed, pull it out!’

One of the most common household tips for preventing weeds is putting sugar on your lawn. The sweetness of the sugar encourages microbe development in the soil which enriches the lawn and prevents weed roots from getting a hold of your soil.  

What is the strongest way to kill weeds? 

One of the strongest and most effective natural ways to kill weeds is using a mixture of white vinegar, salt, and liquid dish soap. These ingredients are common pest control products that can be used safely in your garden without damaging the ecosystem.

This solution works due to the acidic nature of the salt and vinegar which work in tandem to dry out and kill the plant's roots, removing the weed from your garden. 

Learning how to remove weeds from pavers and patios is a never-ending job and one that any keen gardener has to return to year after year. However, if you know how to get rid of weeds from pavers properly, stop them spreading and reappearing, you will be able to minimize the amount of work you will have to do moving forwards. 

With a few expert tips, however, it is possible to find out how to get rid of weeds and also prevent new ones seeding on your patio. 

How to remove weeds from pavers

The dreaded garden weed will steal root space, light, water and nutrients from your fruit and vegetable gardens. Not only that, they can also harbour pests, diseases and viruses. No wonder we’re constantly waging a war on weeds. If you want to ditch chemicals for environmentally conscious controls, how do you get results? 

There are many reasons why you might prefer not to use chemicals to kill the weeds from your pavers. Such considerations include whether you have children or pets who play on it regularly or you want to keep the area environmentally safe to encourage wildlife.

Here are our preferred ways to remove weeds from pavers, as approved by the experts. 

1. Use a hoe or weeding knife

Removing weeds from pavers with hand tools is effective and environmentally friendly. Wait until the soil surface is fairly dry before hoeing, otherwise you’ll uproot weeds rather than cut off their heads, and uprooted weeds can quickly regrow

Deep-rooted weeds such as dandelion and bindweed require the removal of their tap root. This can be tricky in crevices or cracks. Specially designed narrow-bladed weeding tools. Investing in a good quality ‘block paving knife' (like this highly-rated weeding knife from Amazon) should be sufficient to get the job done, and they can be run along between pavers to sever most weeds. 

2. Pour hot water on your weeds

It is not only weeds that you might need to remove from pavers, but also algae and moss build up can make your patio or deck slippery and slimy. Avoid accidents by making sure that your patio is kept clean and weed-free. If you have one, use a pressure washer to blast away weeds and moss. 

However, if investing in a pressure washer isn't within your budget, you can use hot water instead. Simply pour hot water directly from the kettle on your stubborn weeds. Be sure to wear protective shoes and clothing to prevent burns. 

Of course, boiling hot water will kill insects, so while it is an effective, fast way for removing weeds from pavers, it isn’t necessarily wildlife friendly. 

3. Burn weeds between pavers with fire

Flame throwers (also known as flame guns) are widely available weed removal tools that project fire directly at unwanted patio weeds. This will solve the problem of weeds that pop up uninvited in the joints and cracks of driveways, paths and patios. 

Electric thermal weeders have no flame, instead supplying a heat shock of up to around 1,112ºF/600ºC.  Take care and avoid burning poisonous weeds, as these can give off toxins.

There are the obvious safety issues, but also bear in mind that the heat of both air and water can damage plants that you want to preserve – and for that reason are not an option for grass and lawns. 

4. Use vinegar to kill weeds 

There are many people that swear by using vinegar (mixed with soap or salt) to kill weeds from pavers, flower beds and patios, however, this method doesn't come without controversies. While it can be effective at removing annual and early perennial weeds, it is not particularly useful for removing persistent perennial weeds. 

Vinegar and salt is best avoid near flower beds as the acid can alter the PH level of your soil and could kill surrounding wildlife. But using it between the cracks on your patio pavers is not such a bad idea. We recommend that you remove the upper leafy part first, then pour the vinegar solution (half water, half vinegar) directly into the paver crevices using a containers. White vinegar is best; avoid red vinegar, as it could stain your patio paving.

5. Prevent weeds with good pointing 

One of the best weed controls is prevention rather than removal. Ensuring your patio pavers have the right pointing is crucial to ensure that the weeds cannot break through. Polymeric sand is a good material to use as it will lock the pavers in place for a long time, as well as preventing weeds. 

Existing worn pointing can often be raked out with a nail fixed to a piece of wood. Tougher material should be removed with tungsten-tipped chisels that are smaller than the width of the joint. Tough cement pointing will need to be drilled down the centre of the joint with a small drill bit. The remaining mortar can then be removed using small hand tools. Never use mechanical grinders as they can cause irreparable damage to pavers.

Using cardboard for weed control is an accessible yet effective way to regain power over your garden – but what does the process involve? While this humble material may not appear powerful initially, it is among the most impactful ways to tackle the pesky greenery in your yard and flower beds. 

If you're looking for how to get rid of weeds without chemicals, cardboard could be your desired solution. Though, like many weed-control methods, experts do urge caution. Therefore, before bringing cardboard into your garden ideas, it's important to learn the best technique from those in the know. Here's what they suggest – for a nutrient-rich, weed-free garden, without the cost. 

Can you use cardboard to prevent weeds?

'When planning new garden beds, cardboard is key to weed control,' says John D.Thomas, the owner of Backyard Garden Geek. Whether your raised garden bed ideas require a new form of weed control or you're battling weeds on your lawn, the cardboard will come in handy. 

'It is thick enough to smother weeds, but unlike landscape fabric, it'll rot over time,' John says. 'This means that your plants will be able to eventually pull nutrients from your native soil while beneficial bugs such as earthworms will be able to make their way into your garden beds.'

Using cardboard for weed control – what the process involves

The method is surprisingly simple. Fill a large box with cardboard before placing the box on top of the weed you want to control and weighing it down with rocks or bricks. 'Ensure that all sides of the cardboard are covered and that it does not come into direct contact with soil,' says Melody Estes, a landscape design gardening supervisor and consultant at The Project Girl.

However, while the process is easy, the expert urges caution. 'When using this technique, be sure to place the cardboard carefully so as not to disturb any other plants in your garden,' she says. 

It is also most effective when used during the early stages of growth for weeds like foxtails (also good news if you're wondering how to get rid of crabgrass). 

How long does cardboard take to decompose in garden?

Cardboard can take up to a year to decompose fully, but it does depend on the type you have used. 'The polyethylene used in most corrugated cardboard is very resistant to decomposition, but a board made from recycled paper tends to break down more quickly,' Melody explains. 

The cardboard will break down in the soil, which is another benefit of this technique. Sarah Beaumont, CEO and Content Director of Indoor Home Garden, explains that, alongside tackling weeds, the broken-down weeds will provide necessary nutrients to the soil, making it 'the perfect ground for fresh plants of your choosing.'

Will roots grow through cardboard?

Yes, roots can grow through cardboard, but only in certain conditions. 

'Firstly, the cardboard must be moist enough to allow the roots to penetrate it. Second, the cardboard should be placed in a place where there is no light or air circulation,' Melody says. This should prevent the plant from drying out before it has a chance to take root and begin growing. 

Lastly, after a plant has started growing through the cardboard, it helps to guide it to more water and light using some type of support structure. This will ensure it doesn't get too intertwined with other plants while lowering the risk of pests. 

Does wet cardboard rot?

Yes, wet cardboard will rot. This is because it is a type of paper product that will break down when exposed to water. 

'The water causes the cellulose fibers to swell and separate from each other, making them more vulnerable to bacteria and mold growth,' Melody explains. 'The increased moisture content in the cardboard also aids in these processes by providing a hospitable environment for microbes that cause decomposition.'

'When does crabgrass die?' You may be asking yourself this question as the summer continues to slip away, and thoughts turn to how your backyard will look in fall. 

While the drop in temperature may come with its negatives, there is one plus that you may have anticipated since springtime – the end of this notorious weed. 

If you know how to get rid of crabgrass successfully, you may have managed a weed-free summer – but for many – removing crabgrass entirely can be tricky. If you haven't already tried to remove crabgrass, you may be (understandably) waiting for nature to take its course. But how much longer do you need to wait? 

You may be comforted to hear that the wait is neatly over, and your crabgrass should start to die in only a small number of weeks from now. Here's everything you need to know to get back to a lawn that's green and lush.

When does crabgrass die?

Crabgrass is an annual weed that thrives in a hot climate over late spring and early summer. Therefore, frost the most effective way to kill this weed to ensure it stays away for the rest of the year. 'Depending on where you live, this may occur sometime between October and November,' says Josh Tesolin, the co-founder of Rustic Wise.

Melody Estes, a Landscape Design Gardening Supervisor from The Project Girl emphasizes that crabgrass grows well in the spring and summer before dying back in the fall. However, the best time to control crabgrass is when it's actively growing and during late summer when the grass begins to die. Therefore, the best time to act is now. 

What time of year is best to kill crabgrass?

'It's important to remember that crabgrass is a perennial, which means it will grow back year after year. The best way to prevent it from coming back is to prevent new seedlings from sprouting,' Melody says. 

The expert admits that you can use post-emergent herbicides [such as this one on Amazon] on established weeds (as they would be now) as a way to kill them quickly. However, as she suggests, the best way to kill crabgrass is to discourage its growth where possible. 

'The best way to keep crabgrass in check is to ensure you maintain healthy turfgrass,' Josh emphasizes. If you know when to plant grass seed, you may be aware that early fall offers the best climate for cool-season seed. But you can also use this time in late summer and early fall to discourage crabgrass from growing on your lawn, too. Here are some of the best ways to keep it at bay.

Want to get rid of crabgrass? As the summer continues how you get rid of crabgrass will be on most lawn owners' minds. 

The troublesome plant starts to germinate when the temperature rises above 55℉, and sunshine starts hitting the moist soil. Come spring and moving into summer the fast-growing weeds will outgrow other lawn grasses, then die away in winter leaving bare spots ruining any chances of making your lawn green and thick. 

How to get rid of crabgrass naturally

Follow these steps to get rid of crabgrass naturally.

1. Maintain a healthy lawn

Bill Pope, owner of Unlimited Lawn Care explains that getting rid of crabgrass needs to start with prevention by maintaining a healthy lawn. ‘The best course of action to take is prevention. Some ways to prevent crabgrass are: aeration, mowing your lawn at a proper height, and mulching your garden,’ he explains.

‘Aeration helps by removing thatch buildup in your lawn, which is where crabgrass tends to grow.’ The best time to dethatch a lawn will depend on what grass you have, so do bear this in mind.

He stresses that mowing the lawn to the proper height is equally important. ‘Cutting it too short, damages your grassroots, which leads to damaged grass that is more prone to weed growth,’ he says. ‘Keeping it too long means you're likely not mowing frequently enough which leads to weeds running rampant through your yard.’

Bill also recommends mulching a lawn in Spring or Summer to cut weeks off at their roots. ‘It suffocates the weeds and stops them from germinating across your property,’ he explains. However, if you do already have a significant crabgrass problem it is best to avoid mulching as it can cause more of the seeds to spread.

2. Allow your grass to grow longer

Your best lawn mower will always have its uses – but when it comes to crabgrass prevention – Josh urges you to allow your lawn to grow a little bit longer than normal. 

'A good height is around 2 to 3 inches, as this slightly longer grass length keeps soil cool. Crabgrass likes the summer heat, and the cooler temperatures will minimize seed germination,' he explains. 

3. Prevent seed distribution

If you already have signs of crabgrass growing in your lawn it is important to take care when mowing. Crabgrass stalks contain hundreds of seeds, these can spread every time you mow or rake the lawn making the problem worse.

If you or your weekly lawn service is not capturing and bagging your lawn clippings properly you could be spreading the issue further. If you want to compost your clippings, tie them up in a bag and leave them in the sun for four to six weeks, the heat should kill any seeds.

4. Remove crabgrass by hand

There is no better way for getting rid of crabgrass for good than removing it by hand. It is time-consuming, but it is the only way you can ensure it is gone for good.

You can do this in two main ways: pulling it up as you would any other weed with weed-pulling tools from Amazon or smothering patches of it. Smothering it is the easier way of making sure it is dead before removing it. 

After you’ve identified a patch of crabgrass Coulter Lewis, CEO of Sustainable Lawn Care company Sunday, advises covering it with a brick, tile, plate, or any object to block the weed from getting sunlight. ‘Wait 4 to 6 weeks for the crabgrass to be smothered to death and once the weed is dead remove it.’

5. Don't fertilize your lawn in the summer 

Feed your lawn and you'll be feeding the crabgrass, too.

6. Water once a week

You may know when to water plants, but what about your lawn? While you may opt to give it a light sprinkling of water every so often, Josh warns that this might encourage weed growth. Instead, you should give it ' a healthy drink once a week,' to ensure it stays green and healthy. 

The best weed killer for crabgrass

If the natural methods haven’t worked you can opt to use a weed killer carefully. Evan Ebert, is an avid gardener, and owner of The Riding Lawn Mower recommends using Roundup, available to buy on Amazon.

‘If Crabgrass has set up shop on your lawn, you need Roundup. Roundup is a weed killer that's designed specifically for crabgrass. You don't even need to mix the solution, as Roundup comes ready to use with a sprayer built-in,’ he says.

‘After about 7 days, the weeds will turn white. You can either pull them out by hand or use a mower on the lowest height setting to remove them.'

What is crabgrass?

Crabgrass is an annual weed that is almost impossible to remove with even the best lawnmower. Its seeds can live in soil for up to three years before germinating, making them challenging to get rid of.

If you’re wondering why you need to consider how to get rid of weeds like crabgrass, asides from them giving lawns a patchy appearance a study in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry found that crabgrass can actually poison other plant competitors.

Knowing how to grow milkweed can introduce a variety of beautiful blossoms into your garden, all of which provide great food sources and breeding grounds for some of the prettiest butterflies. 

Milkweed is a wildflower ideal for your flower bed ideas with the multitude of colors that are beloved by monarch butterflies in particular. In fact, the plant is the sole source of sustenance for these orange critters so it makes an ideal addition to a garden for pollinators. 

Despite there being around 140 wild species of this perennial flowering plant, they are instantly recognizable by their bright colors, clusters of five united petals, and tufted seeds. 'There are three main types of milkweed plants that are great choices to plant in your garden. Common milkweed, Swamp milkweed, and Butterfly weed. ,' explains Anna Eklöv the director of LÖV Flowers. '

The commercially available varieties of these wildflowers make the ideal addition to any cottage garden ideas and, luckily, they are easy to grow from both seeds and starters. What’s more, you can grow these flowers from cuttings, so you can share and duplicate these plants easily. Be aware that milkweed is classed as a poisonous plant. 

How to grow milkweed  

There are a few ways you can begin growing milkweed to grow your garden ideas. From seeds to cuttings, we provide step-by-step instructions for the best milkweed blooms. 

When to plant milkweed  

As with planting wildflower seeds generally, milkweed is best planted as seeds in late fall as they need to be vernalized (cold treated) before growth. By planting your seeds in fall, winter frosts stimulates germination and prepares the seeds for growth in the spring and summer seasons.

Leaving seeds outside for this long, however, can leave them vulnerable to garden birds and pests, so you could either cover and protect your new seeds over winter or germinate your seeds indoors and simulate cole treatment in your home.

How to grow milkweed from seeds  

Milkweed seeds can be planted either directly in your outdoor soil or started indoors.

‘When planting directly outside, scatter the seeds on the soil's surface approximately ¼-½ an inch apart before covering with approximately ¼ inch of additional soil,’ explains Homes & Gardens’ garden expert, Rachel Crow. ‘It is good practice to water your seeds frequently if there is little rain until the plants are established. 

‘When starting your seeds indoors, you will need to simulate the cold treatment process yourself. This method is good if you want to plant your seeds in the springtime rather than the previous fall.’

To cold treat your seeds indoors, sprinkle your milkweed seeds onto a damp paper towel and wrap. Place this towel into a sealed plastic bag and refrigerate for 30-60 days, depending on what your seed packet recommends. Most milkweed varieties need a minimum of 30 days in the cold to start the germination process. If you notice the seeds sprouting at any point before this, make sure to plant immediately. 

Once the germination process has begun, plant the seeds in seed trays, plant pots, or other small containers that allow for drainage. Dampen the soil and place one to two seeds into each two-inch container, pressing them very gently into the soil. Place them in a sunny spot in your house and water regularly to keep the soil moist but not soaking. Once they have reached approximately one to five inches tall, they can be moved outdoors. 

Milkweed plants produce seed pods each year, so it may be worth learning how to collect and store seeds from your garden plants to reap the rewards of your hard work every year.

How to grow milkweed from starter plants

Buying milkweed plants as starters instead of seeds can be more expensive however removes the need to cold treat seeds so may be more beginner friendly. 

You want to plant starters in groups of six or more to attract butterflies approximately six to 24 inches apart depending on the species. The more you have, the better with these plants. 

Transfer starter plants to your outdoor soil once the danger of frosts has passed by gently removing the starter plug from the original pot, moistening the bottom of the soil if dry, and planting it into your garden soil or compost. 

How to grow milkweed from cuttings 

Just as with other perennial plants, milkweed plants can be propagated from cuttings, and learning how to take plant cuttings is simple. 

Collect your milkweed cuttings in mid-summer, when the plant stems are strongest by using sharp pruning shears to remove stems that have three to five leaf nodes. They should be about four inches long.

To start cuttings, coat the bottom of the cut stem with a strong rooting powder before placing it in high-quality potting soil which has been kept moist. Keep your cuttings in a shady area outdoors to avoid direct sunlight as roots form. 

Cuttings can usually be transplanted around six to ten weeks after propagating and, when taking cuttings in mid-summer, your plants should be well established before winter. 

How to look after milkweed 

When growing milkweed for the first time, it is important to know that they may not grow much in their first season so patience is required. By the second growing season, the plants will become bigger and look stronger. 

Common milkweed only needs watering once their soil becomes dry - this makes it an ideal low-maintenance garden border idea. Provide one to two inches of water, allowing it to soak, and only re-water once this top one inch of soil is dry again. Overwatering Milkweed can result in deadly funguses that will spoil your hard work. 

'Milkweed needs little to no looking after and most species aren’t bothered by pests, heat, or drought. Even fertilization isn’t needed. However, removing withered flowers can result in new buds.' Anna assures us.

If you are relocating your Milkweed plants, make sure to never divide or break the long, carrot-shaped roots of the plant. It is worth noting that moving milkweed plants, even with the utmost care, could kill the plant so it is best to leave them where they are when possible. 

Where is best to plant milkweed? 

Milkweed, although needing colder temperatures to germinate, thrives best in the sunniest parts of your garden once grown so they are the perfect plant for your south-facing garden ideas. Milkweed is a plant native to California, which might tell you something about where this plant likes to grow. 'The best place to plant milkweed is in a spot with full sun as they need at least 6 to 8 hours of sun per day. They’re also self-seeded so best to plant them in a place that’s protected from the wind which will help prevent them from spreading too quickly. ' explains Anna.

Milkweed is infamous for spreading quickly so it is important to also choose a place to grow this plant where you can control the spread. Ideal places could be in corner flower beds or the back of a cottage garden border.  

What type of soil does milkweed grow best in? 

The best soil for milkweed is a light, well-draining soil. Milkweed is a relatively forgiving plant, so most varieties will grow in average garden soil - 'most milkweed can grow in all types of soil except for the Swamp milkweed, which requires moist, humus-rich soil,' adds Anna. Make sure to research your specific milkweed variety to ensure you do not have a less common type that requires swampy conditions.  

How poisonous is milkweed?

Milkweed is more poisonous to grazing animals or poultry than it is to humans, since if corralled they are more likely to eat it in bulk; still, it's worth saying that milkweed shouldn't be eaten in any quantity, and definitely not in bulk. It's also worth noting that not all milkweed species are toxic to the same extent: those with narrow leaves are more so than those with broader leaves, but it is highly unlikely that any garden centers or plant nurseries you buy milkweed from would sell anything very toxic; it's more likely to be a problem in the wild. 

When faced with the need to remove moss from lawn, there are several methods that you can choose. Some may turn to iron sulfate, and others to baking soda. However, there is an even more accessible (but nonetheless effective) solution hiding in your kitchen, and that is dish soap.

While dish soap is best associated with its uses indoors, many gardeners are finding it's a useful tool for the yard, too. In particular, you can use it to get rid of moss on our lawns.

This method is simple and effective, but there is one caveat: the results may not last forever. The good news is, there is a more permanent solution to this common lawn problem. Here, we look how to achieve a moss-free lawn that looks greener and thicker using dish soap, as well as another solution that offers longer-lasting results,

3 steps to use dish soap to kill moss on your lawn

'Killing moss without decimating your grass can be tricky, but a dish soap solution can make it look easy with a little care and attention,' says Tom Monson from Monson Lawn and Landscaping.

Tom explains this solution is most effective if you catch the moss early. He suggests mixing two ounces of dish soap (from Walmart) with a gallon of water to make a gentle solution that will kill the moss without harming your grass. It works by dehydrating moss.

With your solution in hand, try following the below three steps for using dish soap to kill moss on your lawn:

1. Cover the moss in dish soap

Tom suggests using a sprayer (from Amazon) to drench the moss thoroughly in your dish soap and water solution.

If your lawn is on the bigger side, it's wise to increase the dosage to cover all the moss. Use approximately two gallons of water for every 1000 square feet of grass, Tom suggests.

Not only can this method be used on moss, it can also work well for killing weeds but not grass.

You should then wait for around 24 hours for the solution to be soaked up and dry out the moss.

2. Scrape the dead moss away

After the moss has dried up from being dehydrated by the dish soap, you can easily scrape it up using an essential gardening tool of choice.

If you're dealing with lots of moss and are dethatching your lawn, it may be worth investing in a more specialist thatch rake (such as this one on Amazon). It will make the scraping process quick and efficient.

No matter which tool you use, make sure to clean gardening tools after use. This will prevent the potential spread of pests and diseases between plants when you go to use the tool again.

3. Reseed you lawn

It is possible that using dish soap to kill moss on your lawn may also slightly dehydrate your grass, so it may be worth reseeding your lawn to help it recover.

Overseeding a lawn will help repair damaged spots, and your lawn will quickly recover if you choose one of the best fast-growing grass seeds in particular (like this grass seed from Amazon).

You might find a seed spreader (from Amazon) also helps make this a speedy process.

It's also worth considering aerating your lawn and fertilizing your lawn to help nurture it back to health and encourage it to return greener than before.

Why is dish soap not a permanent solution?

Although using dish soap to kill moss on your lawn will work, Homes & Gardens' Gardens Content Editor Drew Swainston says it is unlikely to be a permanent solution:

'The moss will turn brown after applying the mixture, and need raking out to remove it from the lawn. Your lawn may look better, however, it is not a permanent fix and the moss is likely to return again unless steps are taken to improve a lawn’s drainage,' he explains.

Growing moss requires moist conditions, so it makes sense that poor drainage is the core reason moss is growing on your lawn. If you have a shady lawn, this is likely to also contribute, as moss is one of the best ground cover plants for shade and it thrives in dark and damp areas.

'Taking steps to improve a lawn’s drainage, including aerating the lawn and removing thatch by scarification, is a great natural way to combat the build-up of moss and have a healthier, better-looking lawn,' Drew suggests.

For this reason, consider getting your hands on this lawn aerating tool from Amazon.

FAQs

Is it eco-friendly to use dish soap to get rid of moss?

There are some environmental concerns around using dish soap to get rid of moss because it's a product that contains chemicals. As with any other chemical products, dish soap can alter the pH level of soil and have the potential to harm plants. Not only this, but dish soap can possibly harm insects, too. For this reason, it's always a good idea to seek eco-friendly alternatives to using dish soap, such as manually removing weeds and moss with tools.

You might decide to keep moss on lawn if you have a particularly shady area where grass struggles to grow. You can even create a moss garden, which is known to promote a healthy ecosystem.

It might surprise you to know that there are a host of benefits to putting sugar on the lawn: it can break down thatch and has enriching qualities that lessen the threat of weeds. 

Better still, sugar is natural, affordable, and accessible, so it’s unsurprising that many gardeners use it alongside planting grass seed to make grass greener and thicker. 

However, gardening experts do urge us to use this unconventional garden idea sparingly. 

Here’s what you need to know before you bring this pantry staple out of your kitchen and into your yard. 

Benefits of putting sugar on the your lawn – according to experts 

Whether you’re looking for ways to get rid of weeds using an organic product – or you want to boost your lawn’s health, putting sugar on the lawn could be the solution you seek.

1. Weed prevention

Lindsey Hyland, the Founder of Urban Organic Yield, explains that the biggest benefit to using sugar on the lawn is getting rid of weeds. ‘Weeds tend to thrive in environments with access to sunlight and moisture, and by using sugar on your lawn, you can make it less hospitable for these weeds,’ she says. 

And Lindsey is not exclusive in her observation. Bill Glaser, CEO of Outstanding Foods plant-based food company, similarly recommends putting sugar on the lawn to limit weed growth. He explains that while sugar doesn’t kill weeds directly, it does encourage microbe development that enriches the soil. ‘This allows the grass to overtake invasive plant species,’ he explains. 

2. Improve lawn health 

The best garden landscaping ideas begin with healthy, green grass – and you can improve its condition with sugar. 

‘Sugar will help break down thatch, the layer of dead grass, and other organic material that can accumulate on your lawn over time, Lindsey says. ‘This thatch can make it difficult for new grass to grow, but using sugar on your lawn can help break it down and improve the health of your lawn.’

However, while sugar can help your lawn, Bill urges you to use the substance in moderation. ‘Only use a sugar solution about once a month; some sources suggest replacing harsh fertilizers with rice water for more consistent application,’ he says. 

Is sugar good for your grass? 

Putting sugar o the lawn has its benefits, but Tom Monson, the Owner of Monson Lawn & Landscaping, reinforces the food expert’s warning. 

‘Sugar causes the grass’s roots to intake more nitrogen from the soil, which can boost your lawn’s greenness,’ he says. But if your property is further back in the woods, the landscaper urges you to avoid sugar altogether.

‘Sugar also promotes fungal growth, so you’ll want to inspect your lawn and ensure you do not have excess fungal growth; Tom says. 

How much sugar do I put on my lawn?

Spreading around a pound of sugar per 10.5sq feet is enough. Use a lawn spreader to get an even spread on dry grass early in the day.

What type of sugar can I use on my lawn?

The best sugar to put on a lawn is granulated or powdered sugar, or you can use a molasses spray. 

Can I use sugar as fertilizer?

Sugar is not typically used to fertilize a lawn, but as Tom suggests, it does have the power to ensure your grass appears greener. This is because sugar is a carbon that will intake excess nitrogen and promote a better a balance in the soil. 

‘Sugar has its advantages, but we urge you to tread carefully, especially if your land is prone to fungal growth,’ adds Homes & Garden’s garden expert Rachel Crow. ‘However, when used in moderation, this ingredient can promote a greener lawn for the summer ahead'. 

Thinking of using rocks instead of mulch in your garden? This naturalistic technique is amongst the most effective ways to control some weeds and improve drainage, and its natural aesthetic will accentuate almost all spaces instantly. 

If you're looking for a timeless way to elevate your rock garden ideas – whether that is in terms of landscaping or plant health – using rocks instead of mulch may be the solution you desire. Here's what the experts want you to know before bringing this organic material into your exteriors. 

Using rocks instead of mulch – 3 benefits of this stylish alternative 

This method is a favorite amongst the experts, but its benefits extend beyond its style – here’s how rocks can improve your garden, fast.

1. Rocks are the aesthetic alternative

While the advantages of using rocks instead of mulch are not limited to its good looks, it's still a great place to start. 

'In a garden, garden rock creates a sharp, clean look. It contrasts nicely with the rich textures of the plants, unlike mulch,' explains Zaeem Chaudhary, an Architectural Draftsman at AC Design Solutions.  Every type of stone has different benefits to improve your garden landscaping ideas – whether you choose pebbles or crushed gravel – that are particularly popular choices in the garden. 

'Crushed gravel, for example, is a popular choice for paths because, unlike other hardscaping options, it has a natural feel. It can also be used to create a natural border across walks and garden bed ideas,' Zaeem says.

The architecture expert suggests creating a 'zen portion of the landscape' by also using sand that can act as an alternative to water. 

2. Rocks are a durable solution

While mulch is described as a 'porous material' that degrades over time, rocks will stand the test of time. 

'Rock is [strong enough to survive] rain and wind and heavy enough even to stay put even in the face of powerful winds and storms,' Zaeem says. After laying rocks in your garden, they have no defined lifespan and, as the expert suggests, care is simple. He recommends scrubbing the area occasionally to ensure the pebbles look fresh throughout the seasons. 

3. Impact weed control and drainage

In some cases, using rocks instead of mulch can promote better drainage in your garden and control weeds. But you do need to use this method carefully.  

'Mulch retains excess water, resulting in unattractive puddles that can lead to root disease and plant death. On hot days, the liquid evaporates quickly, producing too dry conditions; nonetheless, rock maintains a comfortable balance,' Zaeem explains. 'It helps drainage by preventing extra water from being absorbed by the ground beneath it, while also providing shade on hotter days to keep the soil moist.'

However, if you're looking at how to get rid of weeds above the stones, this method may not help. Tim Sheppard from Soil Shepherds warns that while weed fabric may stop the seeds currently on the ground, it does not consider all weed seeds that will be deposited on top of the rocks.  So, if you're looking to get rid of all weeds, you may need to rely on another tactic.  

Whatever your reasons for using rocks instead of mulch, this alternative has benefits that will work in every garden – and we expect it will stay in style for many more seasons to come. 

If you're wondering how to get rid of quackgrass (Elymus repens) then it's likely that your land has fallen victim to this common perennial. No garden is entirely safe from quackgrass – and if you spot this aggressive weed in your exteriors then it is important to act fast. 

Quackgrass spreads and reproduces via powerful underground rhizomes (horizontal roots) – meaning it can overrun your garden in very little time – so you'll need to become acquainted with the appropriate garden ideas and solutions fast.   

How to get rid of quackgrass – according to experts 

'Quackgrass is an invasive weed that is extremely difficult to get rid of after it has taken root in your yard or garden, so the best thing you can do is to prevent it from growing in the first place,' says Brandon Ballweg, a garden expert from Solid Ground Environmental. 

However, while we admit that prevention is better than the cure, it is possible to regain control over your garden – with the right advice. This is how to get rid of quackgrass, the professional way.

1. Manually remove the quackgrass  

Brandon warns that one of your only options to get rid of quackgrass is to pull it out by hand. When manually removing the weed, you should try to pull as much of the root out of the soil as possible to destroy the deep-rooted systems. 

However, while pulling out your quackgrass is an option, Professor Richard VanVranken warns that this process comes with its challenges. 

'If the quackgrass is in a very small area of turf, or especially in a tilled vegetable garden, one could dig out a few small clumps, carefully avoiding breaking any of the underground stems as much as possible,' Richard says. He adds that you should remove any new sprouts if any broken-off rhizomes do regenerate. 

'It's [hard] to distinguish new young quackgrass sprouts amid the turf grasses, so that's not going to be easy,' the professor warns. 'Depending on the size of the vegetable garden, and the severity of the infestation, hand removal may be overwhelming in your situation.'

2. Use specialist weed killer

While you may know how to get rid of weeds such as dandelions and crabgrass, knowing how to get rid of quackgrass can involve an even more specialist solution. Professor Richard suggests investing in herbicide glyphosate [similar to this one on Amazon] that is powerful enough to fight the weed. 

Though, once again, this method comes with caution. The expert suggests that herbicide glyphosate will kill all the vegetation in the infested area, so you may need to 're-seed' or 're-sod' your area to establish a new lawn. 'The benefit of glyphosate is that it moves throughout the entire plant (top growth and underground) to kill all of those rhizomes – so no more resprouting,' he adds. 

'Other herbicides may only kill the plant parts growing above ground leaving the rhizomes to regrow.'

So, while herbicide glyphosate has the ability to get rid of quackgrass – it may also involve starting your kitchen garden ideas from afresh too. Whatever method you decide to use against this weed, remember that it may, unfortunately, come with a cost. 

Using salt to kill weeds is one of the most controversial actions you can make in a garden, and all for a good reason. This time-honored garden idea is undeniably effective at removing even the most stubborn of weeds – but it is its power that makes this trick so provocative amongst green-thumbed gurus.

If you're looking for how to get rid of weeds, salt may seem like the inevitable and accessible choice. But experts would suggest otherwise. So, if you're thinking of using salt to kill weeds in pavers or beds, take note. This expert advice could save your garden in the long run – even if you do need to search for an effective new method. 

Should you use salt to kill weeds?

Is it a good idea to use salt to kill weeds? Here, the experts respond to the age-old question.

Using salt to kill weeds – against 

‘Salt really does make a great weed killer (herbicide), as it will kill just about anything that grows but is so toxic it simply can't be recommended in most garden settings,'' says a National Garden Bureau member, and Laidback Gardener, Larry Hodgson. 

The expert explains that 'salt kills plants by osmosis,' meaning it will draw the water from nearby plant cells. This will cause leaves (if applied by spraying) or roots (if watered in) to dry out and die. 

'If you spray salty water on most plants, the leaves and possibly stems will soon turn brown, but they'll probably soon put out new growth,' Larry says. This is because salt is a contact herbicide that kills all tissues it touches. 'If it is watered into the soil, though, and kills the roots, that will kill the whole plant,' he adds.

And, it is not only plants that need to beware. Larry explains that this powerful substance is a solution if you're looking for how to get rid of slugs, bacteria, fungus, insects, and earthworms. So, you need to use it with caution. 

The author of Stop Wasting Your Yard, Kate Russell, reinforces Larry'sLarry's argument, adding that, while salt will get rid of your weeds, it can also 'kill off plants you'd rather keep' if the substance ends up in the surrounding soil. 

Using salt to kill weeds – in favor 

While garden expert Linda Hagen does not condone using raw salt on your weeds, she explains that it may be possible to include salt in a DIY weed spray – if you're willing to take the risk with caution. 

'A DIY weed spray of salt, vinegar, and dish soap can be effective but should be used sparingly. Too much salt can be harmful to the soil and prevent good plants from growing well,' she says. 

Linda adds that weed prevention, especially in your flower bed ideas, is a better alternative. ‘In flowerbeds, a thick layer of mulch applied after a thorough hand weeding can help prevent weeds from reseeding.'

Will you stay away from salt or continue to use the substance? Whatever happens, remember to tread with caution.