My So Connecticut Life: It’s Time to Indulge in Apple Season

As I hinted at in my last column, I'm a fall person. The kind who starts putting mums on the porch a little too early, and who gets overly excited at the first hint of a chill in the air. Apple picking fits squarely into that; it's something I've done every year since I was young, and fall doesn't feel complete without it.

When we moved to our town of Easton, Connecticut, almost 8 years ago, the fact that there was an apple farm a mile down the road was a bigger selling point than it probably should have been, and I’ve taken full advantage of it since. I pick apples at least twice a year, so I can capitalize on the different varieties as they ripen.

Unlike when I pick blueberries, where I'm mostly eating them fresh, a good portion of each apple haul is destined to become a baked good. Apple desserts are among my favorites. Further evidence, if you needed it, that I am a fall cliché. I’ve made my peace with it.

A classic pie is always my first move. My aunt is one of the best cooks I know, and her apple pie has become something of a family legend. The recipe her grown nieces and nephews attempt to recreate each year now that she's retired to Florida and no longer hosts every holiday. She gave me her blessing to share it here.

The pie is not too sweet, and the crust is thick and holds its shape. It's perfect on its own, better with vanilla ice cream, and best, in my opinion, with a spoonful of homemade whipped cream. I make one small tweak to the crust when I bake it myself, but I've noted both versions in the recipe so you can decide.

Aunt Dotti's Apple Pie Recipe

Here's the recipe for both the crust and filling, along with some of her notes for getting it just right.

Pie Crust

It's easy to swap out pre-made pie crust, but I think this one is worth the effort, and it comes together faster than you think. Make it before the filling. If the apples sit too long, the pie will be soggy.

• 2 2/3 cups all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup shortening (I sub the shortening for butter at the same ratio, but either works)
• 7 to 8 tablespoons cold water

Cut shortening/butter into flour. Cut shortening into flour using a fork or pastry cutter, working until the mixture looks like small, uneven peas.

Add water gradually. Add cold water one tablespoon at a time, working each addition into a small section of the dough rather than pouring it over the whole bowl. Mix just until the dough holds together.

Divide and rest. Gather the dough into a ball, then flatten it into a round disk. Cut it in half and reshape each half into a flat round. Wrap one half in plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready to use it for the top crust.

Roll and chill the bottom crust. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the other half into a circle large enough to fit your pie pan with a little overhang. Lay it into the pan, pressing gently into the edges. Refrigerate for one hour.

Apple Pie Filling

Make the filling as the pie crust is chilling so the apples don't get a chance to become soggy.

• 1 cup sugar
• 1/3 cup all purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• Pinch of salt
• 8 cups thinly sliced pared apples (a note on apple varieties, below). Try to make them all similar in size so they cook evenly
• 3 tablespoons butter cut into small pieces

Mix the ingredients. Stir the sugar, flour, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt, and sliced apples together in a large bowl, and pour into the chilled bottom crust.

Add butter. Dot the top of the filling evenly with small slices of butter.

Add the top crust. Roll out the second half of the dough and lay it over the filling. Trim any excess, then flute or crimp the edges to seal. Cut a few small slits into the top to vent.

Protect the edges. Cover the edges of the crust with foil strips or a pie shield to prevent them from browning too quickly.

Bake. Place the pie on a foil-lined baking sheet (this catches any overflow and makes cleanup easy). Bake at 425°F for 40 to 50 minutes, removing the foil from the edges in the last 15 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and the juices are bubbling through the slits.

Cool completely. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool thoroughly before slicing. The rack allows air to circulate underneath, otherwise, the bottom crust will get soggy.

The Best Apples for Pie

Most avid bakers have strong opinions on the best apples for pie. Aunt Dotti swears by Granny Smith apples. I also love Granny Smith, but I usually mix a couple of different varieties since I often pick more than one. This time, I used Jonagolds, which tend to lose their firmness when baked, and Gala, which gets a bit softer, but has a great flavor. I'll also mix Granny Smith (firm and tart) with Honeycrisp or Cortland apples.

If you mix two (or more) types of apples, the key is to have at least one that stays firm enough to hold its shape. Apples like Macintosh and Red Delicious turn to an applesauce-like consistency as soon as they're heated, so I avoid those altogether.

Of course, fall baked goods are at their best when you can pick your own fruit, but if you don't live near an orchard, farmer's market, or grocery store, apples are still at their peak in September. Make this pie once, freshly picked fruit or not, and I guarantee it'll be in your fall rotation too!

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