Avoid Pruning These 7 Plants in September – It Could Cost You Next Year’s Flowers

Step away from the pruning shears: these shrubs and perennials need their stems, buds, and seedheads intact as summer turns toward fall

Colorful layered border
(Image credit: Jacky Parker Photography via Getty Images)

September’s urge to tidy is powerful, but resist cutting back spring-flowering shrubs, berrying plants, ornamental grasses, and late-season bloomers. Pruning now can remove next year’s buds, trigger frost-tender growth, and strip your yard of welcome winter shelter and food.

I have made the classic September mistake myself, a few innocent snips, a suddenly well-behaved shrub, then a spring of conspicuous floral silence. Timing is everything; a plant’s apparent need for a haircut is not the same as an invitation to give it one.

A little knowledge about pruning can save a great deal of regret. September is a month for observing, deadheading with restraint where appropriate, and admiring the artful disorder of a garden preparing for winter, preferably with these Okatsune pruners from Amazon clean, sharp, and firmly in their holster for the moment.

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1. Serviceberry

amelanchier blossom

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Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.) is one of the most useful small trees in a temperate yard: clouds of spring blossom, handsome summer foliage, fiery fall color, and berries that disappear with astonishing speed when the birds discover them. It is also a plant I would not touch with pruning shears in September.

Prune now and you risk removing the flower buds already waiting on the previous season’s growth. You may also reduce the crop of berries that makes serviceberry such a fine choice for gardeners looking to create a more wildlife-friendly space. A slightly untidy branch is a small price to pay for spring’s white confetti.

If shaping is necessary, do it immediately after flowering in late spring, removing crossing, damaged, or congested branches. For a mature specimen, use these Fiskars loppers from Amazon rather than attempting heroics with hand pruners. If your tree is still young, our guide to transplanting a shrub has useful principles for handling woody plants with minimum stress.

2. Viburnum

Viburnum tinus

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Viburnums (Viburnum spp.) are the sort of shrubs that make gardeners look clever: fragrant flowers, glossy leaves, and berries in shades ranging from scarlet to blue-black. Their one demand is that we do not panic at the first sight of a lanky stem.

Many commonly grown viburnums flower on old wood. By September, next spring’s buds are already present, quietly getting on with their business. Cut back the plant during a fall cleanup and you will remove the very stems that would have produced the bloom. Worse still, you may lose a valuable berry supply for birds just as winter menus become rather bleak.

Wait until immediately after flowering in spring or early summer. Then thin out one or two of the oldest stems at the base rather than giving the whole plant the sort of blunt, symmetrical trim that makes it resemble a green ottoman. For inspiration on choosing shrubs that need less fuss, see these late-summer shrubs that look after themselves.

3. Weigela

white and pink flowers and variegated foliage of Weigela ‘Florida variegata'

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Weigela (Weigela florida) is generous to a fault. Its trumpet-shaped flowers bring hummingbirds and pollinators into the yard in late spring, and many modern cultivars oblige with a smaller encore later in the season. It can look a little unruly by September, which is precisely why gardeners reach for the blades.

Don’t. Weigela flowers chiefly on wood made the previous year, so an early-fall trim removes the framework for next year’s show. September pruning may also stimulate soft new shoots that are unlikely to harden before frost in USDA Zones 5 and colder. That fresh growth is the horticultural equivalent of sending a guest outside in slippers during a snowstorm.

Prune weigela just after the main flowering flush, cutting a few of the oldest stems down to ground level and shortening flowering stems only where needed. If a branch is genuinely dead or broken, remove it now; good judgment is not a calendar prison. Keep an eye on common pruning mistakes, especially the temptation to shear a naturally arching shrub into submission.

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4. Climbing Hydrangea

climbing hydrangea growing on fence

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Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris) takes its time. For several years it may appear to be contemplating life rather than participating in it; then, suddenly, it scales a wall with stately confidence and produces creamy, lacy flowers. Once established, it deserves a very light hand.

September pruning removes potential flower-bearing growth and can expose stems just as cold weather begins. The peeling bark and branching framework also lend real beauty to an otherwise bare wall in winter. In a smaller yard, this plant gives vertical gardens a sense of age and permanence, rather like a rather distinguished relative who has never needed to raise their voice.

Tackle it after flowering in summer, shortening only wayward shoots that are blocking windows, gutters, or a favorite view. Do not hack at the main framework. For the wider question of when hydrangeas want attention, our guide to pruning hydrangeas is worth keeping close by.

5. Beautyberry

Callicarpa americana with berries

(Image credit: Andrew Baumert / Alamy Stock Photo)

American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) earns its name in fall. Its improbable purple berries circle the stems like beads on a particularly theatrical necklace, and they become more vivid as the rest of the garden subsides into browns and golds. September is the opening act of its finest season - not the moment to cut it down.

Removing branches now means sacrificing berries for both you and local birds. In warmer regions, especially Zones 7 through 11 where American beautyberry thrives, those fruits may persist well into winter. The shrub’s loose habit can look scruffy in a garden designed with ruler-and-clipboard precision, but it is rather marvelous when planted where its casual exuberance is allowed room.

Leave pruning beautyberry until late winter or very early spring, before fresh growth begins. Then cut it back hard if needed; beautyberry flowers on new wood and responds well to a decisive annual renovation. If you want more plants for free, allow a few berries to fall or try your hand at propagating shrubs from cuttings.

6. Fountain Grass

Fountain grass for screening

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Fountain grass (Pennisetum spp.) catches low fall light with an elegance few plants can match. Its plumes sway in the breeze, gather frost, and bring movement to a winter border when everything else is fixed and still. Cutting it back in September is like taking down the holiday decorations before anyone has arrived.

The foliage helps protect the crown from winter wet and cold, particularly in temperate areas with freezing winters. Its seedheads also provide cover for insects and visual nourishment for gardeners who have learned that a good winter garden does not need to be relentlessly tidy. I have often found that the plants I nearly cut down in fall became the ones I most enjoyed looking at in January.

Wait until late winter or early spring, just before new shoots emerge, then cut the old foliage back to a few inches above ground level. Use a pruning saw from Ace Hardware for a large, mature clump; ornamental grasses have a disconcerting ability to turn ordinary shears into a test of character. For more plants that earn their keep after summer, explore perennials to leave standing over winter.

7. Russian Sage

Russian sage in flower

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Russian sage (Salvia yangii) is not, botanically speaking, a sage from Russia, which feels like a slightly unfair opening move. What it is, however, is a superb late-season perennial for dry, sunny sites in Zones 4 through 9, with silver stems and a haze of violet-blue flowers that can carry a border beautifully into fall.

Avoid cutting it back in September. The woody stems help shield the crown through winter, and pruning can encourage tender growth at the precise moment the plant should be preparing for dormancy. Those old stems also look splendid under frost - one of nature’s more economical special effects.

Wait until late winter or early spring, when the threat of severe cold has eased and new buds begin to show. Then cut back to healthy, low growth. Pair it with other plants chosen for winter structure, rather than treating the entire yard as though it must be cleared for inspection. Our guide to preparing gardens in October offers a calmer, more considered approach to fall jobs.


September is full of garden work, but not every task requires a blade. Leave these plants to finish the season in their own slightly unruly fashion, and spring will reward your restraint with flowers, berries, birds, and a garden that has survived winter dressed for the occasion.

In the meantime, there are plenty of tasks on the fall gardening checklist you can get a head start on now. This includes the several plants you can prune in September.

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Ross Pearson
Gardening Writer

Ross Pearson is a horticulturist, garden writer and lecturer based in Northumberland, UK, where the rugged landscapes and rich gardening heritage have shaped his approach. With a lifelong love of plants and the outdoors, Ross combines practical experience with a deep knowledge of horticulture to help others garden with confidence, imagination and a sense of joy.