7 Trees that Thrive When Pruned in February – Late Winter Conditions Are an Ideal Time to Trim
See edible and ornamental trees to trim this month, plus professional pruning tips
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February is a good month to prune deciduous trees in many climates. As they are dormant, they suffer less stress from pruning, and there are fewer pests and diseases around at this time of year. Bearing that in mind, we look at some of the best trees to prune in February.
One word of warning is that pruning trees might not be suitable for everyone this month – you need to be cautious about when to prune trees to keep them safe. If you live in warm or milder climates, the weather is probably fitting. However, even in these areas, avoid trimming during freezing temperatures. Gardeners in colder regions may need to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed before heading out to prune.
Even More Trees to Prune in February
This time last year, I looked at seven trees to prune in February. But there are certainly more candidates to consider, so a follow-up was necessary.
See my first recommendations on trees to prune in February, and add those seven to your late winter gardening checklist, along with the following selections:
1. Pear
I mentioned above that I had done a lot of fruit tree pruning in winter, which included pear trees, both freestanding and trained. I have pruned many apple and pear trees at this time of year, as late winter is the best time to prune pear trees to keep them healthy and productive, especially those growing as standalone trees in gardens or orchards.
In terms of how to prune pear trees, remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, along with crossing branches and any growing inwards. Cutting back branch leaders by up to a third will promote the growth of fruiting spurs.
For trained pear trees, most pruning takes place in summer, but you can also thin stems in winter or do major cutting to rejuvenate the shape.
You must always have clean, sharp pruning tools; it is a mistake to prune trees with blunt or dirty tools. The quickest way to sharpen many tools is with a pocket-sized tool sharpener, like this one at Amazon.
2. Oak
These majestic and widespread trees are highly prized, but to keep them safe, you must understand when to prune oak trees if you have one on your property.
The reason timing is crucial is to avoid oak wilt, a devastating fungal disease that is prominent in eastern and midwestern US states and capable of quickly killing most types of oaks.
The disease is spread by sap-feeding beetles in spring and early summer, so any oak pruning must be done during dormancy, usually between November and March.
That time urgency is why you should have it on your hit-list of trees to prune in February if you have an oak in your yard. Thankfully, the actual pruning should be simple.
Oaks don’t need regular pruning; they are low-maintenance trees that just need dead, diseased, or damaged branches removed and the canopy thinned if it gets too congested.
A pruning saw may be required to remove larger branches on established oak trees. I recommend this Felco folding saw at Garden Goods Direct. I used one for many years and found it efficient to cut through large tree branches.
3. Ash
Ash has been a popular urban tree in cities for decades, but it is under threat from the emerald ash borer (EAB).
The EAB has been detected in 37 states and is believed to be responsible for the death of millions of ash trees across North America. One way to keep an ash tree on your property safe is through pruning at the right time.
It is advisable to only prune ash trees when they are dormant, and late winter is the ideal time. Pruning at this time reduces the risk of fresh sap flow, which stresses the tree and attracts pests such as the EAB.
Another major pruning mistake to avoid is being too overzealous, as taking out too much wood stresses the tree and makes it more vulnerable to pests. Take heed of the one-third pruning rule and don’t remove more than this in any one year.
Concentrate on removing dead, damaged, and diseased branches and lightly thinning the canopy to open it up and improve light penetration and air circulation.
When you do prune or examine an ash tree, if you notice an S-shaped pattern on the bark or dead branches at the top of the tree, this may indicate the presence of the EAB. Any infested wood should be burned and not moved off-site.
4. Beech
Beech trees have long been popular additions to any landscape, thanks to their shape and fall color. The American beech tree, for example, is adored for its smooth, grey, unusual bark and for being a prized tree for shade.
Beech trees can reach up to a hundred feet if left unpruned, and regular trimming is often required to keep them to a manageable size for a property. This pruning needs to be done during dormancy, as beech trees bleed sap when actively growing, which leaves them vulnerable to pests and diseases.
As beech trees are currently at risk of beech leaf disease, pruning during dormancy helps keep them healthy and reduces unnecessary stress or risk.
Start by removing dead, damaged, diseased, and crossing branches first, as the latter can rub and create entry points for disease. If you are looking to reduce the height, make selective thinning cuts over a few years to remove branches rather than hard-pruning the tree.
Always sanitize your pruning tools when moving between trees. This can be done as simply as spraying tools with a commercial disinfectant spray and wiping them down. You can get an all-purpose disinfectant cleaner at Walmart.
5. Ginkgo
Ginkgo trees are one of the oldest in existence and have been around for over 200 million years. They remain popular today thanks to their unique fan-shaped leaves, their golden fall color, and their low-maintenance.
They don’t require lots of pruning, but when the need arises, it should be done during dormancy in late winter or early spring.
Most pruning is done while a ginkgo tree is young, to form its shape. Often, this involves developing a strong framework and a single leader, with competing branches, long-hanging stems, and suckers removed.
Once established, they only require dead, damaged, and diseased branches removing, and a light shaping. As ginkgo trees only grow 1-2 feet per year, this TLC often doesn’t need to be a regular annual task. But do remove suckers whenever you see them.
6. Sweetgum
Sweetgum, also known as liquidambar, provides spectacular fall color in fiery shades of red, yellow, orange, and more. They don’t need regular pruning, but they may need some attention for both aesthetics and safety.
You should prune sweetgum trees during dormancy, ideally in late winter. This helps keep it healthy as there are fewer insects and diseases around to trouble pruning wounds. A benefit to pruning during dormancy is that you can see the structure and spot any damaged branches.
Pruning typically involves removing broken, diseased, or dead branches. It is also advisable to remove any crossing branches, crowded stems, upright shoots, and suckers at the base of the tree. But prune lightly, and don’t remove more than 25% of live wood.
An established sweetgum can get very large, potentially up to 100 feet tall, meaning a certified arborist may be required for large trees.
7. Fig
When you grow a fig tree, pruning is one of the important tasks to get right. They do need annual pruning, which keeps them healthy and ensures you have a great harvest, but there is a right and a wrong time to prune fig trees.
The right time is when they are dormant in late winter, with February an ideal time to get out and trim. It would be a mistake with a fig tree to wait until it is actively growing, as figs bleed sap heavily if pruned during spring or summer. You should always wear gloves when pruning figs to protect your skin, as the sap can irritate.
Pruning outside the ideal window also impacts the harvest, as the tree has to concentrate precious energy on healing wounds, at a time it will be stressed from sap loss, rather than producing fruit.
Annual fig tree pruning requires removing dead, diseased, damaged, or crossing branches and congested areas to open up the tree’s framework and allow for lots of air and light penetration. Wall-trained figs need any shoots growing inwards or outwards removed, and new shoots cut back by around a third.
Older fig trees often benefit from one or two of the largest branches removed annually to encourage new, more productive growth.
It is important to make sensible pruning decisions, as not all trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring. In particular, you want to avoid pruning spring-flowering trees and shrubs, such as dogwood, magnolia, and lilacs, as you would be trimming off all the buds that will carry that year’s blooms. This guide to what not to prune in spring reveals 10 of those trees and shrubs that you should keep the pruning tools away from.
Shop Tree Pruning Tools
Felco No. 2 pruners are nearly universally beloved as the best pruners on the market. I have used these for many years; they are comfortable, hard-wearing, and razor-sharp.
These extendable loppers can reach difficult areas when trimming trees. The high-carbon steel bypass blades can cut branches up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
This pruning saw has a 10-inch blade and features RazorTOOTH technology to double your pulling power when trimming thick branches.
A set that comprises a pair of bypass steel pruning shears and a pruning saw. Both tools have non-slip soft handles to retain control when pruning.
These Japanese pruning shears are made from high-grade blade steel and are perfect for pruning fruit trees. The vinyl-coated handle prevents slipping when trimming.
This pole pruner extends up to 16 ft and can trim tree branches up to 1-1/4" thick.
