At Anna's Table: From the North Fork to Sydney, Australia – My Failsafe Rules for a Relaxed and Indulgent Christmas, Wherever You Are

Hosting Lessons Learned

It's the race to the end of the year, and I’m feeling it. I’ve put the garden in the North Fork to bed, the barn is shut down, and the countdown is on to days in the sun. It’s been freezing in New York, and this year I am heading back to my hometown, Sydney, Australia, for Christmas. It’s my annual voyage, and it always involves prepping to host a house full of people, a big seafood feast, a Kris Kringle present swap, Champagne with crackers and bon bons, possibly a swim in the ocean, some backyard cricket and, of course, a Christmas ham. I will likely make a massive Eton Mess for dessert, which I’ll get the kids to help me with (smashing meringues is very satisfying). And I will eat ham on toast the day after (and the day after that) with all the condiments.

This year, as my siblings and I were planning the holiday feast via group text, I realized we have, unconsciously developed a rhythm for entertaining with a house full of people over the years. Yes, there is still often chaos, but it feels semi-organized, thanks to a few unspoken habits we have developed, as a way to get through holiday hosting (or any hosting), in the most elegant way possible.

The Warmest of Welcomes

If people are staying overnight and coming in late the evening before, I’ll have some cheese and crackers, (I love Murray's Monthly Cheese Club for discovering new and interesting cheeses – a subscription makes a wonderful gift for food lovers, too), a charcuterie spread, or a soup on the stove. Something a little hearty if travel has been far. And obviously some delicious wine. Sometimes the quiet before the chaos is one of the loveliest moments with a smaller group before all arrive.

Room to Unwind

Good hosts know the magic is in the details, especially when it comes to where guests will be sleeping. My mum always has fresh flowers next to the guest bedside tables. Other simple but sometimes forgotten touches are guest towels in the bathroom, a beautifully made bed, space cleared to hang clothes (no one wants to ask for a hanger or fight for space amongst the old coats).

And especially for late-night arrivals and weary travellers, don’t forget a water carafe by the bedside (like this Joss & Main Delaria 2-Piece Carafe and Cup Set) and a lamp turned on at dusk or a candle lit to a lovely glow. Diptyque's Feu de Bois (Bloomingdale's) is perfect, as it has a warm and woody aroma that captures notes of smoky warmth with Lapsang Tea notes to create a unique, slightly mysterious scent that's lovely for cosy spaces.

Morning Meal for a Crowd

Breakfast is personal (Designer Bryan Graybill has some nice ideas for his breakfast ritual), and I use that as a way to treat it casually, especially on Christmas with a full house and a big dinner or activity that day. I set up a breakfast bar the night before in a spot slightly off to the side for people to help themselves: Coffee cups, plates, toaster, condiments, and a spot for pastries, bread, or bagels, and cut fresh fruit (in Australia this time of year it's mangos, cherries, and passionfruit). Sometimes I’ll add a bowl of boiled eggs, some ham, a jar of granola, and a note for where to find what (yogurt, milk, coffee, tea). Freshly heated croissants are always a treat and the easiest on Christmas day (I like Williams Sonoma's Croissants)

While breakfast is happening, I get the serving platters (I'm loving this ribbon serving tray from Atelier Saucier), glasses, and the other table business for dinner out. I may or may not have set the table before – that’s always a good job for the kids.

All-Day Snacking

After breakfast we begin our present-opening ceremony and I set out something moreish that will take us through the rest of the day til the main event: a platter of smoked salmon, sourdough bread, capers, lemon, horseradish sour cream and Champagne served on a silver tray (these decorative trays from Zara Home are ideal). It makes a great brunch, is easy to throw together, and carries everyone through to the main event later in the day. I also do this at any time of the year for weekend guests before we head out for other adventures.

The Big Feast

While our seafood menu of shrimp and oysters feels quintessentially Australian, I maintain it can be applied to any celebration, no matter the time of year or where. It looks dramatic and generous, and there is an ease to it that takes out some of the heavy cooking fuss. Of course, not everyone in the family loves seafood, so we include ham and some delicious sides (always roast or smashed potatoes, greens beans and possibly an Ottolenghi-inspired salad). Each item has its own platter and is placed down the center of the table for the full visual feast effect. What I like about serving seafood in this way is that it can be made in advance for the most part and can be as simple or as complex as we choose to make it. That said, in the cooler part of the hemisphere, where cozy really is called-for, roast beef is a great celebratory dish to prepare in advance, too.

The Group Comes Together

None of this can be done alone, of course, so together my siblings and I loosely decide in advance who is doing what. Someone is assigned to buy and shuck the oysters and de-vein the shrimp, I sometimes make an Italian style seafood salad and my brother might make Singapore Chilli crab. Each year we mix it up. I've cooked calamari on the the grill or in the pan just till it curls, then add a splash of good vinegar. I’ve made an octopus stew with red wine and potatoes, minted shrimp, mussels in white wine, tomato and saffron spiked with fennel. There is always a lot of sourdough with European butter. Salad and sides are divvied up closer to the time (my sister is very good at this), and last year my brother-in-law mastered margaritas, which managed to derail some of the master-cheffing going on. Shockingly, we almost forgot the oysters.

Sweets

For Christmas, it's often some kind of meringue recipe. Often a pavlova, though I've done a Torta di Verona – a rich gluttony of a dessert made with mascarpone, blue berries and Marsaka and Amaretto-soaked Pan d’Oro topped with sugared almonds. One year, we just bought drumstick icecreams – always a hit. And sometimes I will do my Killer Eton Mess served in the largest footed glass bowl I can find. I buy or make massive meringues and then have the kids help me assemble – each is given a job to crush meringues, whip cream or, for the littlest, layer on the strawberries and raspberries. The secret is to keep the meringue pieces large, make the raspberry coulis in advance (I’ve also used store-bought puree or curd) and serve with some lemon cream to cut through all that sweetness. It’s such a drama-queen of a dessert and perfect in its imperfection.

Killer Eton Mess (serves 10-12)

• Macerate the fruit: Slice 1½–2 lbs strawberries and toss with 3-4 tbsp sugar and 2-3 tbsp St-Germain. Set aside until juicy. Add ½ cup pomegranate seeds if using.
• Make the lemon cream: Whip 1¼ quarts heavy cream with 2 tbsp powdered sugar and the juice of ½-1 lemon until stiff peaks form - taste as you go for the right balance.
• Break up 6–8 large meringues (homemade or store-bought), or use a pavlova broken into big, rugged pieces — you’ll need about 6–8 cups in total.
• In a large glass bowl, layer raspberry coulis, lemon cream, meringue pieces, and the macerated strawberries with their juices. Repeat to the top.
• Let it stand for 10 minutes so the meringue softens slightly, then serve generous spoonfuls straight from the bowl.

Hosting, Guesting & Gifting

The holidays sometimes involve more guest-ing than hosting for me – mainly because I am either flying back to Aus or having an orphan Christmas here in the US. Either way, I am often staying with family or friends vs. hosting myself. I love to host – I take pleasure in knowing people are happy and comfortable, setting the scene, adding the little touches to make it special. I love the anticipation of getting ready, but admit to feeling sometimes rather relieved (selfishly) to not be in the hot seat during the holidays. Because of this, I also take my role as a guest seriously, too. To be a good guest is a gift in itself (and gets you invited back). Obvious tips are; not overstaying your welcome, being the right kind of helpful, giving space to the host when needed and bringing something thoughtful and personal as a hostess gift.

Last-Minute Gifting

There are some people who give amazing gifts. They have a gift for the gift and plan it for months, manage to wrap it beautifully, and it's the most thoughtful and delightful moment. I am not that person. I love giving, and I love receiving (to the point my family hide mine up to the day under the tree), but it's usually a last-minute rush. My gifting love language is food. I either make it or find some gorgeous ingredient for ever-generous hosts.

That said, it's not for everyone, so make sure you know your host. I don’t think everyone appreciated my handmade pate or red wine-poached prunes last year. But if they do like to cook, a gorgeous bottle of extra virgin olive oil and a good Sherry vinegar are always appreciated (my go-to is Flamingo Estate's Olive Oil and Fuyu Persimmon Vinegar). When in doubt, a scented candle (Zara Home's set of scented candlestick candles makes me smile – it's so clever) or some lovely bathroom soap is always right (when in doubt, I always give Aesop and the Party in the Greenhouse set is a gorgeous gift).

Napkins, platters, and other table decor, is lovely, but make sure you feel confident with the recipient's taste (white linen napkins, like these embroidered linen cocktail napkins from Zara Home – I might buy them for myself, in fact) are the safest bet, and you can never have too many). Try to avoid flowers without a vase, wine (unless asked), or things they might feel they need to serve then and there. I try to keep it to something they can tuck away and enjoy themselves.

My Personal Selection of Gorgeous Gifts for Hosts & Guests

My recipe for at Eton Mess is the perfect allegory for how to be a good host over the holidays: I know it can be a lot of work to make everything seem effortless, and the holidays can often add another layer of pressure, so plan something that looks better broken and a little messy and have a bit of fun while you’re at it. Wherever you are in this world, may it be merry and bright. Happy Holidays to all and to all a good bite!

At Anna's Table is a biweekly column and modern guide to Savoir-Faire, in which Homes & Gardens' Editorial Director, Anna Last, shares a glimpse into the mindset of the moment, as well as what she's doing in her kitchen and bringing to the table with the best of the season's produce.