At Anna's Table: My Non-Negotiables for a Wonderfully Nostalgic Thanksgiving – From Elevated Sides to Pumpkin Pie With a Twist

Is it just me or does daylight saving time end with a thud for everyone? It always puts me in a funk. It conjures up a Winter-is-Coming Game of Thrones dramatic overtone, and the first two weeks I'm in the doldrums, as though I’ve never been through it before. When I’m here in the North Fork, I bemoan the darkness at 4.30 pm. All of a sudden I look up and it's dark out, and so quiet it's as though I’m the only person on earth.

But in the city, where I spend about half my time, it's already Christmas: All sparkly, pop-up stores galore, trees lining the streets, and the atmosphere brimming with that it's-the most-wonderful-time-of-year anticipation. This helps shift my mind to what's to come and, just like that, my seasonal change grieving period is over. My mental lists become paper lists, and I start planning: who is hosting Thanksgiving? (what to cook, who with, and where) and Christmas (whose place, what to wear, and give the kids). And always, what will I be eating?

As an expat, Thanksgiving is not technically my holiday. At home in Australia, spring is turning into summer, and my friends and family are swimming in the ocean, enjoying a seafood feast outdoors, and playing cricket in the backyard with a glass of chilled white.

But here in the US, Thanksgiving has quickly become one of my favorite holidays. I’ve been a part of all kinds of Thanksgivings in my 18 years of living here; family gatherings as traditional as Normal Rockwell paintings, casual, wine-soaked friendsgivings and potluck dinners, expat-style holidays (one host controversially rebelled by serving porchetta with crackling instead of turkey and gravy), restaurant dinners (always a relief every now and then) and destination celebrations (as I will be this year).

Combine all of those gatherings with a career in an industry that takes Thanksgiving very seriously (I was previously the Editor of Martha Stewart’s food magazine and the Creative Director for Williams-Sonoma), and I think it’s fair to say that, even as an expat, I have come up with a few best practices that any host can benefit from. (For more practical ideas, consult Homes & Gardens' very helpful Thanksgiving checklist for a stress-free holiday).

My Top Tips for Hosting Holiday Gatherings

1. Make what you can in advance (gravy, cranberry sauce, vegetables, casseroles)
2. Set the table a few days before
3. Place the platters with sticky notes to label the dish name on each
4. Outsource pies or sides if it's potluck – even if it's not, people love to contribute.
5. Set up your home bar, glassware, ice buckets, booze, so it's ready to serve on the day
6. Create a list of small kitchen tasks in advance – people also like to help, so give them something to chop or stir.
7. Stock up on storage containers, for prep and because leftovers are the best.
8. If you are like me and often making it up as you go along, I’ve discovered AI is an enormous help for quick questions or recipe troubleshooting on the fly.

And although I have been to my fair share of, shall we say, less-than-traditional Thanksgivings, I have learned that, for most, there are three real non-negotiables: turkey, potatoes, and pumpkin pie. There is leeway with the rest, and debates to be had: stuffing inside or outside the bird (you need both, in my opinion), sausage or not (I’m the latter). Potatoes can also be contested: Is mashed a must-do, or would you consider the gratin, or even a hasselback?

What’s certain is that Thanksgiving tables today are a blend of nostalgic, time-honored recipes and fresh ideas – bright salads bursting with flavor, roasted vegetables with tangy dressings, and other newcomers that bring balance to the feast. Who knows, perhaps these are the new non-negotiables. Here are a few of mine.

Decadent New Non-Negotiable Potatoes

Inspired by the classic French gratin dauphinois, these mini versions are baked in a muffin tin (I like this non-stick muffin pan from Williams Sonoma) for delightfully individual, creamy golden stacks. This recipe is rich with the addition of Gruyère or Taleggio cheese, but you can simplify the flavour by omitting these and the leeks. You may need to trim the potatoes to fit your muffin cups.

Recipe: Mini Dauphinoise Potato Gratins

• Lightly butter or spray with olive oil a non-stick 12-cup muffin tin, and dust each cup lightly with finely grated Parmesan. In a small pan, melt 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat and sauté 1 finely sliced leek (white and pale green parts only) for 4–6 minutes, until softened. Add ¾ cup heavy cream, 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in 2 tablespoons finely snipped chives and simmer for a few minutes to thicken slightly. If it becomes too thick, loosen with a little cream or milk.
• Thinly slice about 2 pounds potatoes on a mandoline (I like the OXO Good Grips Mandoline, available from Amazon) – roughly ⅛ inch thick – I used new potatoes, but Sebago or another roasting variety also suits. Arrange the slices, overlapping as needed, to touch the sides and fill each cup halfway. Spoon over about 1½ teaspoons leek-cream mixture and top each with a slice of Gruyère or Taleggio. Continue layering until just above the rim, then top each with the remaining leek-cream mixture, 1 teaspoon Parmesan, and a thyme sprig.
• Cover the tin loosely with foil, leaving a small vent at one corner. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 35–40 minutes, until the potatoes are tender, then uncover and bake another 15–20 minutes, until golden and bubbling at the edges. Rest for 5–7 minutes, then run a thin knife around each edge to loosen and lift out gently and serve warm.

A Bright, Crunchy Salad for the Thanksgiving Table

I first had this salad at a local restaurant in West Hampton and was intrigued by the combination of Asian flavours with winter greens, peanuts and Parmesan – bright and hearty all at the same time, which often makes a great Thanksgiving side. While researching, I found it’s a cult favourite at a restaurant chain here, with plenty of copycat versions online. Here’s mine. You can prep the ingredients a few days ahead.

Recipe: Winter Green Salad with Peanut and Parmesan Dressing

• In a blender or jar, combine ⅓ cup rice vinegar , 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 tablespoons sugar, a squeeze of lime and 1 tablespoon spicy brown mustard. Whizz together in one of the best food processors with ½ cup olive oil and ⅓ cup peanut oil until smooth and emulsified. I like these Made In Measuring Cups for perfect portioning.
• Thinly slice a mix of chopped kale, cabbage, radicchio, and finely sliced Brussels sprouts, then toss them in a large bowl with 3 sliced scallions, a handful of torn mint leaves, and a handful of cilantro.
• Add ⅔ cup roasted, chopped peanuts and 1 cup finely grated Parmesan and toss with the dressing. Let it sit for 15–30 minutes to allow the flavours to develop and the greens to soften. Before serving, sprinkle with more peanuts and Parmesan.

Your New Favorite Sweet Potato Dish

The combination of lime, sherry vinegar, and maple syrup cuts through the sweetness of the roasted potatoes, while toasted hazelnuts add depth and crunch.

Recipe: Caramelized Roasted Sweet Potatoes with maple and lime brown butter

• Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Halve 6–8 small sweet potatoes lengthwise, about 3 inches long, and place them on an unlined baking sheet with 3 tablespoons oil and a pinch of salt. Toss to coat, then turn cut side down and roast for 25–35 minutes, checking after 20, until golden and caramelized.
• While they roast, melt 4 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium–low heat. Add 1 cup chopped hazelnuts and cook, stirring, until the nuts and butter are deeply golden – about 4–6 minutes.
• Remove from the heat and stir in the juice of 1 lime, 2 tablespoons maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar immediately. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the roasted sweet potatoes to a serving platter and spoon over hazelnuts and brown butter dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Which brings me to another non-negotiable, Pumpkin pie; to my expat mind, pumpkin is a vegetable, not a dessert ingredient. Once as a newly minted editor in the US at a food magazine, putting together the annual Thanksgiving menu, which was a bit of a chore due to said non-negotiables, I made the ultimate faux pas and asked if we could skip the ol’ PP that year. The room went silent. I redeemed myself with the solution: serve more than one kind of pie ok? This was absolutely acceptable.

I do not love pumpkin pie, I often find them cloyingly sweet and too loaded with cinnamon and spice (there are always a few of us at the dessert buffet eyeing it suspiciously, taking the smallest portion possible). This year however, I decided not to be a hater and take it as a challenge to make a pumpkin pie I would be happy to eat, and more importantly to serve. So here you have it.

A Game-Changing Pumpkin Pie

If, like me, you’ve never quite understood the appeal of pumpkin pie – too sweet, too spiced, too much – this one might change your mind. I used butternut squash instead of canned pumpkin and it's a gamechanger. It’s silky, balanced, and bourbon-scented, with roasted squash is sweet enough and slightly caramelized. The filling can be made ahead, refrigerated overnight, or frozen unbaked and thawed before use. Use a store-bought or your favourite homemade crust, blind-baked and ready to fill. If you like a spicier pie - add a little more cinnamon or ginger. It's up to you, (just don't freeze the whole uncooked pie, or you will get a soggy bottom).

Recipe: Bourbon and Maple Syrup Pumpkin Pie

• Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). On a parchment-lined sheet pan, toss 1 pound peeled and cubed butternut squash with a light spray or drizzle of olive oil. Roast for 20–30 minutes, until tender and lightly caramelized. Pulse the cooled squash in a food processor or blender until completely smooth, scraping down as needed. You will have around 1 ¾ cups.
• Add 3 eggs, 1 cup heavy cream, ¼ cup brown sugar, ¼ cup pure maple syrup, and 1 tablespoon dark muscovado sugar (optional), 2–3 tablespoons bourbon, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg, a pinch salt, and 2 teaspoons lemon juice for brightness and a few drops vanilla extract. Blend in one of the best blender-food-processor combos.
• Pour the filling into your prepared pie crust and bake in a preheated 325°F oven until just set with a slight wobble in the center, about 45–55 minutes. Cool completely before serving. Serve at room temperature with vanilla bean ice cream or whipped cream.

As my very first Thanksgiving host here in the US told me, 'It's really just about getting a bunch of randoms together – um, no offense – to eat and drink too much and have a good time.' No offense taken, I was charmed by this sentiment and have taken it to heart as the mark of what makes a truly great Thanksgiving. Afterall, no gifts means no pressure and everyone is welcome (even the 'randoms'). At the risk of sounding a little Hallmark-y (though, ‘tis the season) it really is about giving thanks, and that is a very lovely thing in itself.

Styling it Up

As I will be on a boat in the sun far away from the chill of November this year (destination celebration!). But if I were hosting here are my favourite Thanksgiving table decor ideas for this year. I’m big on adding to what you have with a few new things to refresh your family heirlooms. This season I’m loving mixing snowy white Damask tablecloths (like this Beauregard by Garnier Thiebaut tablecloth from Fine Linens), mixed with brown or green plaid, gingham, or striped runners in rust colors, pomegranate reds, with blue dinnerware and serveware, plus maybe a touch of gold.

Wishing everyone a wonderful Thanksgiving, whatever your approach is this year – eat, drink, be merry, and give thanks. I'll be on a boat heading to Key West, where we'll be celebrating dockside. Back in two weeks, sharing my best ideas for snackity bits (read: hors d'oeuvres) for holiday entertaining and beyond, which I love and sometimes wish I could just have for dinner. Follow along for my Thanksgiving-in-the-sun adventures @Anna_Last on Insta and more in my newsletter Bread & Gravy.

At Anna's Table is a biweekly column and modern guide to Savoir-Faire, in which Homes & Gardens' Editorial Director, Anna Last, shares a glimpse into the mindset of the moment, as well as what she's doing in her kitchen and bringing to the table with the best of the season's produce.