My strategy when cooking for friends is always the same: I want to be able to prepare as much as possible in advance, so that I can concentrate on socialising rather than worrying about the food; I want the recipes to be relatively simple, yet impressive; and I want the menu to focus on seasonal ingredients that my guests will love. It’s not difficult to tick all three boxes at this bountiful time of year. Having a fabulous dessert in the bag is also a boon, so I have chosen a cheesecake and a panna cotta, both of which must be made ahead.
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WARM SALAD OF JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, WILD MUSHROOMS, SPINACH AND CRISP SAGE WITH A LEMON AÏOLI DRESSING
When preparing the Jerusalem artichokes, drop the peeled wedges into a bowl of cold water with a few slices of lemon to prevent them blackening.
500g Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and cut into wedges2 tbsp olive oil40g butterHandful of sage leaves500g mixed wild mushrooms, cleaned and sliced½ garlic clove, crushed150g baby spinach leaves
For the dressing1 egg yolk½ garlic clove, crushedPinch of caster sugarPinch of saltJuice of 1 small lemon100ml light rapeseed oil
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Steam the artichoke wedges for 10 minutes. Transfer to a roasting tin, toss with the olive oil and season well. Roast for 30 minutes, until tender and golden. 2. For the dressing, whisk together the egg yolk, garlic, sugar, salt and 2 teaspoons lemon juice in a bowl. Whisking continuously, add the oil, drop by drop, until the mixture begins to thicken, then add the rest in a thin stream. Whisk in the remaining lemon juice and 2-3 tablespoons water to thin the consistency slightly. The dressing can be made up to 3 days ahead and kept covered in the fridge. 3. Heat 10g of the butter in a frying pan and add the sage leaves. Cook for a minute or so until translucent, but not browned, then drain on kitchen paper to crisp as they cool. 4. Heat the remaining butter until it foams, then add the mushrooms and season well. Add the garlic and cook over a high heat for 4-5 minutes, until golden in places. Add the artichoke wedges and toss to combine. 5. Spoon on to serving plates with the spinach leaves, scatter with sage leaves and spoon over plenty of dressing.
7-HOUR BEER ROAST LAMB WITH PARSNIP GRATIN
Marinating the lamb will enhance the flavour. If you don’t have time, simply roast as below with the same ingredients.
2.5kg (large) leg of lamb, part-bonedand tied with string500ml pale or golden ale300ml chicken or lamb stock8 cloves garlic, skin on, bruised (bashed slightly)2 tbsp chopped rosemary, plus 3 rosemary sprigs2 tbsp olive oil1 bunch baby or young carrots, scrubbed, trimmed2 red onions, peeled, thickly sliced
For the gratin400ml crème fraîche200ml whole milkButter for greasing1kg parsnips, peeled and sliced into rounds100g Gruyère cheese, grated1 tbsp chopped rosemaryA good grating of nutmeg
1. Put the lamb in a sturdy food bag or non-metallic dish and cover with the ale and stock. Add the garlic and chopped rosemary and marinate for 8-48 hours. When you are ready to cook the lamb (and gratin), pre-heat the oven to 180°C, gas mark 4. 2. For the gratin, combine the crème fraîche and milk in a bowl and season lightly. Butter a medium baking dish and cover the base with one third of the parsnips and one third of the cheese. Season with salt, pepper and a little rosemary and nutmeg. Spoon over one-third of the crème fraîche mixture and cover with parsnips, cheese and seasoning, as before. Repeat the layering, reserving the last third of the cheese. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 40 minutes, then remove and set aside. 3. Remove the lamb from the marinade and pat dry. Rub the lamb with the olive oil, season well and put in a large baking dish or roasting tin that is deep enough to hold the beer and stock. 4. Roast the lamb for 30 minutes, until beginning to brown. Spoon any fat from the dish and discard, then add the marinade, carrots, onions, rosemary sprigs and 150ml water. Cover tightly with two layers of foil and reduce the heat to 140°C, gas mark 1. 5. Cook the lamb for 6-6½ hours, until extremely tender. Check after 4 hours and add more water, if needed. Transfer the lamb and vegetables to a warmed serving dish, cover with tea towels and rest for 40 minutes. Spoon the fat from the juices in the roasting tin and reduce the remaining liquid to create a rich sauce. 6. Turn the oven up to 190°C, gas mark 5 and scatter the remaining cheese on the gratin and bake, covered, for 30 minutes, then uncovered for 5-10 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Serve with the lamb, steamed, buttery greens and the sauce.
AUTUMN SALAD OF ROAST SQUASH WITH SERRANO HAM AND MANCHEGO
This is a real crowd pleaser: simple, but substantial enough to serve as lunch for four. The squash and pumpkin seeds can be roasted a few hours in advance. Heat the squash through in a warm oven when needed or serve at room temperature.
600g butternut or coquina squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into cubes3 tbsp olive oil50g squash or pumpkin seeds½ tsp paprika150g sliced serrano ham2 handfuls of watercress, thick stems removed50g Manchego cheese,rind removed
For the dressing1 garlic clove, peeled and bruised (bashed slightly)2 tbsp sherry vinegar½ tsp Dijon mustardPinch of caster sugar4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1. Pre-heat the oven to 200°C, gas mark 6. Toss the squash with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, season generously and spread out on a roasting tray. Roast for 30 minutes, until golden and soft. Set aside to cool to room temperature. 2. Meanwhile, toss the squash or pumpkin seeds with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, the paprika and a little salt. Spread out on a separate baking tray and roast for about 6 minutes, until lightly toasted. 3. To make the dressing, put the garlic clove, vinegar, mustard, sugar, oil and a little salt and black pepper in a lidded jam jar and shake vigorously. The dressing can be made up to 4 days ahead and kept in the fridge. 4. To serve the salad, gently toss the squash, ham and watercress with the dressing in a large bowl. Shave the cheese over using a vegetable peeler and scatter with the roasted pumpkin seeds to finish.
BRINED CHICKEN WITH CIDER, PEARS AND PUMPKIN
Brining the chicken seasons it throughout and keeps it juicy after roasting. Serve this with mashed potato for a filling supper or peppery salad leaves for a lighter meal.
1 large, free-range chicken (about 2kg), untied, giblets removed10 shallots, halved and peeled4 fresh, small bay leaves5 thyme sprigs, plus extra leaves to serve50g butter, softened1 small pumpkin or round squash, deseeded and cut into wedges3 small pears, halved and cored2 tbsp olive oil150ml dry cider
For the brine200ml dry cider100g demerara sugar2 tbsp rock salt1 tbsp whole black peppercorns2 thyme sprigs3 fresh bay leaves, crushed
1. Make the brine by mixing all of the brine ingredients with 200ml water. Put the chicken in a large, zip-lock food bag and pour in the brine. Seal the bag, set it in a bowl or dish, and refrigerate for 6-24 hours, turning occasionally. 2. Pre-heat the oven to 190°C, gas mark 5. Remove the chicken (discard the brine), rinse in cool water and pat dry. Put four shallot halves, 1 bay leaf and 1 thyme sprig inside the chicken. Loosen the skin from the breast and put a pat of butter and the bay leaves underneath. Spread the rest of the butter over the breast and legs. Put the chicken in a large roasting tin, cover with foil and roast for 20 minutes. 3. Uncover the chicken and arrange the pumpkin, pears and remaining shallots and thyme sprigs around the base. Drizzle with the oil, season and add the cider to the dish. Reduce the heat to 180°C, gas mark 4 and roast for 50 minutes, covering the chicken with foil if it browns too quickly. To test for doneness, insert a skewer into the thigh: the juices should run clear, not pink. If not cooked, cover and return to the oven for 10 minutes. 4. Rest the chicken on a board, tented with foil, for 10 minutes before carving. Serve with the pumpkin, pears and juices from the pan, and a few fresh thyme leaves scattered over.
WHITE CHOCOLATE, RASPBERRY AND CARDAMOM PANNA COTTA WITH FIGS
Easy yet elegant, slightly unusual and not too filling – this is a fabulous pudding to prepare ahead for a dinner party.
For the sauce200g fresh or frozen raspberries2 tbsp caster sugarJuice of ½ lemon
For the panna cotta650ml double cream325ml whole milk½ vanilla pod1 tbsp caster sugar4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed180g white chocolate, chopped4 gelatine leaves3 ripe figs, to serve
1. To make the sauce, blend the raspberries, sugar and lemon juice with 2 tablespoons water. Pass the mixture through a sieve to remove the seeds. Chill the sauce until needed. 2. Have ready six 150ml pudding moulds (grease these very lightly with a flavourless oil if you wish to turn out the panna cotta) or small cups, glasses or bowls (no need to grease if you wish to serve the panna cotta in them). 3. Put the cream, milk, vanilla pod, sugar and cardamom pods in a saucepan, slowly bring to the boil and immediately remove from the heat. Set aside to infuse for 20 minutes. 4. Drop the gelatine leaves, one by one, into a bowl of cold water. Set aside to soften for 5 minutes. 5. Meanwhile, strain the cream to remove the vanilla and cardamom pods. Return the cream to the pan, add the chocolate and warm over a low heat, but do not allow to boil. Stir until the chocolate is melted. 6. Drain the gelatine leaves and squeeze out any excess water. Stir the gelatine into the warm cream, off the heat, until completely dissolved. 7. Divide the mixture between the six containers. Chill for 4 hours or overnight, until set. If not turning out, spoon the sauce over the top to serve. 8. If turning out the panna cotta, dip the outsides of the moulds in hot water for a few seconds, then turn out on to serving plates and spoon sauce over the top. Serve each panna cotta with a torn ﬁg half.
BLACKBERRY AND SOUR CREAM CHEESECAKE WITH A GINGERNUT CRUST
Blackberries work wonderfully with the ginger base and the vanilla and soured cream filling, but you can use any fresh or frozen berries.
150g fresh or frozen blackberries2 tbsp caster sugar1 tsp plus 5 level tbsp cornﬂour200g gingernut biscuits70g unsalted butter, meltedPinch of salt750g full-fat cream cheese, at room temperature300ml sour cream, at room temperature175g caster sugarFinely grated zest of ½ lemon1 tsp vanilla bean pasteor extract5 large free-range eggs, at room temperature
1. Put the blackberries and sugar in a small pan with 1 tablespoon water. Heat gently, stirring, for 5 minutes, until the berries begin to soften and burst. Purée the berries using a stick blender, or blitz in a blender and return to the pan. 2. Mix 1 teaspoon cornﬂour with 1 tablespoon water to make a paste and combine with the berries in the pan. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, then simmer for 1 minute until thickened. Set aside. 3. Pulse the biscuits in a food processor to a fine crumb. Combine with the melted butter and salt. Press the mixture evenly over the base and a little way up the sides of a 23cm round springform cake tin. Chill in the fridge for 15 minutes. 4. Pre-heat the oven to 120°C, gas mark ½. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the cream cheese until smooth. Using a wooden spoon, beat in the sour cream, 5 tablespoons cornﬂour, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla. Beat in the eggs, one by one, stopping when the mixture is just smooth. 5. Pour half the mixture over the biscuit base and dot a few teaspoons of blackberry purée over the top. Cover with the rest of the cream cheese mixture and level the surface. Drag teaspoonfuls of the remaining blackberry purée over the surface, running a skewer or spoon handle through it to create a marbled pattern. 6. Place the tin on a baking sheet. Bake the cheesecake on the middle shelf of the oven for about 1¾ hours, until set but slightly wobbly in the middle. 7. Turn off the oven, prop the door ajar and leave the cheesecake to cool completely. Chill for at least 4 hours or overnight. Run a knife around the edge and remove from the tin before slicing.
Styling/ Ali Brown
Photography/ Laura Edwards