Menu of the Moment: Aran Goyoaga on the Slow and Intentional Art of Gluten-Free Baking

During the winter months, when the air is crisp and the days shorter, Aran Goyoaga retreats to her kitchen. The baker, photographer, and James Beard–nominated author has long been known for her soulful, poetic approach to gluten-free baking. Her new book, The Art of Gluten-Free Bread (Amazon), is exactly what is needed for the New Year and season of slow rituals.

The Evolution of a Family Baking Tradition

'This is the book I wish I had fifteen years ago when I stopped eating gluten,' she says. 'It’s the culmination of years of testing, learning, and refining.' Goyoaga grew up in the Basque Country in Northern Spain, where her grandparents owned a bakery and lived in the flat above the shop, so she spent her after-school hours doing homework surrounded by brioche and shortbreads. So, it’s no surprise that, when Goyoaga turned to baking to widen her own gluten-free options, she was determined to reimagine gluten-free baking as an evolution of her family traditions, not a compromise.

Celebrating a World Beyond Wheat

'The biggest misconception,' she explains, 'is that gluten-free bread has to be dense or flavorless or made with filler ingredients. It doesn’t have to be that way.' Instead, she approaches each recipe with balance and intention, blending whole grains and light starches to create structure and depth. 'People forget that wheat flour itself is mostly starch,' she says. 'In gluten-free baking, it’s about finding the right balance between whole grains and starches to achieve the texture you want.'

What emerges is a collection of loaves that are as nourishing as they are beautiful –breads that celebrate the vast world beyond wheat. 'Flours like sorghum, millet, brown rice, teff, and buckwheat each have their own character and aroma,' Goyoaga explains. 'When you bake with these, you’re expanding your palate.' Many of the breads in her book, she adds, are higher in nutrients and fiber than traditional loaves – and often easier to make. 'Because gluten-free doughs don’t rely on kneading, you simply mix, ferment, and bake. There’s something very freeing about that.'

Baking Fosters Connection

In The Art of Gluten-Free Bread, and in her on-demand gluten-free baking classes, Goyoaga goes beyond bread and explores an entire world of baking. It extends to classic cookies, buns, crackers, and all the comforting essentials you’d expect to find in a well-stocked bakery, like the one she grew up above – perfect to make as a nourishing and thoughtful gift for a gluten-free friend.

For Goyoaga, fall and winter are the natural seasons for baking. 'I’m a homebody,' she says. 'I look forward to this time – lighting the best candles, cozying up with blankets, making a fire, and filling the house with the smell of bread.' The act of baking itself becomes its own reward: 'Working with your hands, nurturing a starter, or sharing a loaf with a neighbor are grounding, creative acts. They bring you back to yourself and foster connection. There’s a deep sense of gratitude in that.'

Embrace the Pared-Back Process

Her pared-back philosophy extends beyond ingredients to the tools she keeps in her kitchen. 'I don’t like clutter, and I find it wasteful to fill a kitchen with single-use tools,' she says (learn how to declutter a kitchen in 5 simple steps). 'I’d rather invest in a few well-made pieces that last a lifetime – a great chef’s knife, (our Kitchen editor is a fan of the HexClad knives), a sturdy metal loaf pan, the best stand mixer, a heavy cake pan, a good rolling pin.' For her, the point isn’t just minimalism – it’s awareness. 'When you pare back, you learn what really matters. You understand why you’re using a tool, what it’s made of, and how it serves you.'

There’s also a quiet mindfulness to her process, a pace that feels increasingly rare. 'Baking is absolutely an antidote to the pace of modern life,' Goyoaga reflects. 'It asks you to slow down, to focus, to use your hands. In a world that’s so fast and digital, baking gives us a chance to make something real, beautiful, nourishing – and to share it.'

Let Practice Become Ritual

For those new to gluten-free baking, her advice is simple: start with intention. 'Read the introductions to my books,' she says. 'Learn the flours, use a kitchen scale, follow the recipes exactly at first. Repetition leads to intuition. The more you bake, the more you’ll understand how the dough should look and feel.'

In other words: let practice become ritual, and ritual become joy. 'Bread is emotional,' she says softly. 'It connects us to family, to community, to memory. Being able to bake a loaf that feels and tastes like bread again can be incredibly moving.'

Olive and Rosemary Fougasses

Grabbing a loaf of olive fougasse – a crispy and chewy bread in the shape of a grain of wheat, originally from Provence – was always on the top of the to-do list anytime we traveled across the border to France when I was a kid. A loaf doesn’t quite describe this bread; it’s more like a light olive oil–tinged stalk. The best way to eat it is to break off pieces, finishing the whole thing while silently walking along cobblestone streets – this is how I remember it.

The bread has a crispy crust with a chewy bite and nice air pockets and is a close cousin to focaccia. The most important thing for achieving a crispy exterior is to preheat your oven for a good half hour or even longer. Give the oven a chance to get really hot by preheating it to 500°F (260°C), then lowering it to 450°F (230°C) when the bread goes in. You can even skip the sheet pan and bake the bread directly on a pizza stone.

Ingredients (makes 2 large fougasses)

• 2 teaspoons (8 g) active dry yeast
• 475 grams water, heated to 105°F (41°C)
• 12 grams granulated sugar
• 20 grams psyllium husk powder
• 150 grams tapioca starch 150 grams potato starch 150 grams sorghum flour, plus more for dusting
• Leaves from 2 rosemary sprigs, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons (8 g) kosher salt 25 grams extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
• 70 grams pitted Kalamata or green olives, chopped
• Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling Freshly ground black pepper, for sprinkling
• 15 grams sesame seeds

Method

• Make the yeast-psyllium mixture. Sprinkle the yeast into a medium bowl. Add the water and sugar and whisk until dissolved. Let the mixture sit until frothy, about 10 minutes. Whisk in the psyllium vigorously until smooth. Let it gel for 5 minutes.
• Make the dough. In a stand mixer, stir together the tapioca starch, potato starch, sorghum flour, rosemary, salt, and yeast-psyllium mixture. Snap on the dough hook and begin mixing on medium speed. Add the olive oil and continue mixing until you have a smooth dough. It will look dry initially, but it should come together in 2 to 3 minutes. Add the olives and mix until they are thoroughly spread through the dough. The dough should feel moist and a little sticky but hold together nicely.
• Proof the dough. Brush a large bowl with some olive oil and transfer the dough into it. Turn the dough around to coat in oil and shape into a ball. Cover the bowl and let it ferment until doubled in size, about 45 minutes.
• Preheat the oven. Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C).
• Shape the fougasses. Lightly dust a work surface with some sorghum flour. Transfer the dough to the surface. Using your fingertips, press down on the dough to gently stretch it into a round that is 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6 mm to 1.3 cm) thick. You can use a rolling pin if preferred, but be careful not to tear the dough. Using a bench knife or knife, vertically cut the dough in half. You should have two half-moons. Place one piece of dough on a sheet pan and the other on a second pan. Cut a center slash in the middle of each half-moon without cutting through the ends, then cut three slashes on each side. Gently pull apart the slashes so there is a nice opening in between. Again, be careful not to tear the dough. If you simply cut the slash but don’t separate the dough enough, it will end up baking together and not give you a nice opening in the fougasse. The dough can easily tear because it doesn’t have a lot of elasticity, so work gently.
• Bake the fougasses. Loosely cover one pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate it while you bake the other. Brush the top of the fougasse with olive oil and sprinkle with flaky salt, black pepper, and half of the sesame seeds. Place the pan in the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C). Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Brush the second fougasse with olive oil, sprinkle with flaky salt, black pepper, and the remaining sesame seeds and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown.
• Cool the fougasses. Slide the fougasse loaves onto wire racks to cool for at least 30 minutes before cutting into them. They are best eaten the same day.

Rosemary Focaccia

My favorite focaccia has a very thin, slightly crispy, golden crust with a soft open crumb. This is achieved with a high-hydration dough that includes a lot of olive oil and millet flour to give the dough that golden color. This focaccia works really well for sandwiches when you cut it in half horizontally; a combination of mortadella, arugula, and almond aioli is my favorite.

If you have ever worked with gluten-containing focaccia dough, you might expect this dough to be very bubbly and might even be tempted to aggressively dimple the dough with your fingers before it goes in the oven. This dough will not create those large air pockets, so try to be gentle with the dimpling. I don’t recommend adding any heavy toppings like a bunch of tomatoes, because they can weigh down the dough while baking and compress the crumb.

If you don’t have a 9-inch (23 cm) square pan, you can use a 9-by-13-inch (23 by 33 cm) pan, but only stretch the dough to a 9-inch (23 cm) square.

Ingredients (makes one 9-inch focaccia)

• FOR THE SPONGE
• 175 grams sorghum flour 45 grams millet flour
• 10 grams active dry yeast 280 grams water, heated to 105°F (41°C)
• FOR THE DOUGH
• 170 grams water, at room temperature
• 35 grams extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 10 grams apple cider vinegar 20 grams psyllium husk powder
• 160 grams tapioca starch 90 grams potato starch
• 15 grams granulated sugar
• 21/2 teaspoons (10 g) kosher salt
• FOR TOPPING
• Fresh rosemary leaves Fresh thyme leaves
• Flaky sea salt, for sprinkling Freshly ground black pepper

Method

• Make the sponge. In a medium bowl, stir together the sorghum flour, millet flour, and yeast. Pour in the water and whisk until smooth. Cover with a kitchen towel and proof until the sponge rises up creating a dome and it has a mousse-like texture, about 45 minutes.
• Make the dough. Add the water, olive oil, and vinegar to the bowl with the sponge and whisk together. Whisk in the psyllium and let it gel for 5 minutes. In a stand mixer, stir together the tapioca starch, potato starch, sugar, and salt. Add the gelled sponge mixture. Snap on the dough hook and mix on medium speed until the dough comes together and is smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead it a few times to smooth out the surface.
• Proof the dough. Drizzle the bottom of a 9-inch (23 cm) square pan with 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Place the dough inside the pan and flatten it with your hands until it nearly reaches the edges and is about ¾ inch (2 cm) deep. Using your fingers, dimple the surface of the dough, making deep indentations. Cover the pan with a kitchen towel and proof until nearly doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
• Preheat the oven. Position a rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).
• Top and bake the focaccia. Drizzle the top of the focaccia with more olive oil. Gently dimple the top of the focaccia with your fingertips. Sprinkle with rosemary, thyme, flaky salt, and black pepper. Bake the focaccia for 45 to 50 minutes, until the surface is a deep golden brown. If the surface becomes too dark after 35 minutes, tent it with aluminum foil. Drizzle the focaccia with a bit of olive oil for extra shine when it comes out of the oven.
• Cool the focaccia. Let the focaccia cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then slide it onto a wire rack to cool completely before cutting. It is best eaten the same day.
• VARIATION: Focaccia Crackers
• Thinly slice any leftover focaccia. Arrange the slices on a sheet pan in a single layer. Bake at 300°F (150°C) until dry and crispy, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Store the focaccia crackers in an airtight container for up to a week. Serve with dips and cheeses.

Menu of the Moment is a monthly Homes & Gardens feature which taps into a seasonal cookery mindset or food trend, with a selection of recipes inspired by the calendar or zeitgeist, and an interview with the cook, chef or recipe book author about the story behind them, and what brings them joy about cooking seasonally and for the moment.