I tried olive oil coffee: a barista tests Starbucks’ Oleato

Some people start their day with coffee, some start it with a spoonful of olive oil. I started mine with both. Starbucks’ former CEO, Howard Schultz, created the new coffee line ‘Oleato’ which has gone viral. It’s a range which blends olive oil with coffee, for a filling, energizing drink. Supposedly. 

As a barista, I’ve seen trends come and go, but bulletproof coffee has endured. Oleato coffees work on the same logic as bulletproof: fats fill you up, give you healthy oils, and claim to boost energy levels. If you make good quality coffee too, it’s a home run.

Even though this works in theory, it doesn’t sound as appetizing as my go-to order. Today, I switched it up. The Starbucks barista recommended an Iced Shaken Oleato for me, so I tried it. 

Eleven states in the US are serving the new ‘Oleato’ brew, so we wanted to find out whether this is a fitness fad or our new favorite fix. Was it love at first sip? Not exactly. I spoke to baristas, nutritionists, and health researchers to find out whether I needed to persevere with this new kid on the coffee block.

Where did olive oil coffee start?

The Oleato started with folklore and family tradition. Some Mediterranean families start the day with a spoonful of olive oil. They swear by it for skin-boosting, energizing benefits. Howard Schultz, Starbucks’ former CEO, was inspired by his travels in Italy, where he claims he saw families adding olive oil to their coffee. It seems like a pretty niche practice -  I asked lots of Italians and only a few had heard of putting olive oil in their coffee. 

Why would you add olive oil to coffee?

Coffee is usually a little bitter and acidic - hence the various milks, creamers, and syrups on the market. Petar Dzaja, CEO of Olive Knowledge, recommends swapping your milk for olive oil. He says ‘adding olive oil in coffee provides the additional fats of milk and cream, but, even better with added polyphenols (antioxidants).’  

I asked Krutika Nanavati, Registered Dietitian and Nutritionist, to get into the details of why  olive oil and coffee are a good duo. She said that ‘olive oil contains healthy fats, MUFAS, mono-unsaturated fatty acids, which offer a number of health effects.’

She told me that ‘studies have shown that adding these to a balanced diet can help lower cholesterol levels, protect against heart disease, reduce inflammation, and even aid in weight loss.’ She also added that ‘olive oil is rich in antioxidants, which can help protect against cell damage’. In other words, it’s the secret to better skin.

What does our barista think?

I was hesitant to try the Oleato and was very ready not to like it. I asked the barista for his recommendation, so he served me the Iced Shaken Espresso Oleato. Given that olive oil is supposed to replace milk in Oleatos, I was surprised that Starbucks added milk too. As I waited in line, I counted another four orders of Oleatos. That’s one Oleato for every other three coffees - it’s a little faddish, but there’s clearly an appetite.  

To be fair, my first sip was genuinely delicious. I could taste the earthy and savory undertones of olive oil, which made my coffee taste almost fruity. It’s drinkable. The oil gave a really smooth, velvety texture, which I was impressed with. However, as I was walking to work, I noticed my coffee bubbling away in a very oily manner. When I looked at the side profile of my coffee, I could see an oil layer. I gave it a stir, but I couldn’t get the oil to blend back in with the coffee. Half of the cup is still sitting beside me and I can see a gross, thick, oily layer over my coffee. I don’t feel more energized, nor do I feel fuller. If anything, that oily layer is making me feel queasy. 

I spoke with Hash Parvez, the Field Coffee Trainer for Blank Street. He recommends 'achieving that highly-desirable silky smooth texture and richness of flavour though a cold brew shot' instead of olive oil coffee. He told me that cold brew 'packs incredible texture and flavor without the bitterness that can sometimes come with a traditional espresso shot or from the aftertaste of olive oil'. I definitely prefer cold brew.

What do nutritionists think?

The experts are skeptical. A few touted the health benefits of coffee and olive oil, echoing the healthy fats and good antioxidants. However, most echo nutritionist and trainer, Mary Sabat’s sentiments. She told me ‘I personally would rather people eat their healthy fats and avoid processed oils, so my clients are not being advised to do this practice'. 

Many nutritionists raised concerns that people were drinking oil in the mornings instead of having a wholesome breakfast. They suggested that a balanced breakfast would help people to stay fuller and maintain energy levels, which is exactly why people are drinking Oleatos. They promised that a wholesome breakfast would be more satisfying, more helpful for your gut’s microbiome, and would help portion control.

It’s also important to note that olive oil increases the calorie content of the beverage. The Oleato I had was 310 calories, which is more than double the same drink when it doesn’t have olive oil in it. Although olive oil is generally considered to be a healthy fat, but It’s advisable to research and consult with a healthcare professional if you have specific dietary concerns. 

How can I make olive oil coffee?

Experts emphasize the importance of consistent quality over the whole process: you need quality coffee beans, freshly ground and brewed, and quality extra-virgin olive oil. We would recommend using coffee from an espresso maker or coffee maker, since these coffees will be exceptional quality and full of aromas. That way, you’ll have the Starbucks experience, Italian-barista style. We would recommend these two in particular: 

If you don’t have these machines, a French press will make the most acidic coffee. This will benefit from a touch of olive oil, so makes for a good coffee. 

Once you’ve made your black coffee, add a teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil. Petar  Dzaja, CEO of Olive Knowledge told me that ‘the best way to add olive oil to coffee is with a blender. That way, all the ingredients will mix completely.’

A few Starbucks Oleatos, made in haste, left drinkers complaining of an oily film coating the inside of their mouths. Start with a teaspoon, building up to as much as two teaspoons of olive oil per 8 oz cup of coffee. Stop when you like the taste. This works for both hot and cold coffee in the same way.

We have a couple of recommendations for blenders which we think would be up to the job. 

FAQs

Our Verdict

The Oleato is an easy trend to jump on. Whilst it might provide a breakfast boost, I’m not convinced. My morning shaken espresso is in no danger of having some olive oil poured into it. Make really good quality coffee; buy good beans; and have a good breakfast, and you’ll feel the same benefits as the Oleato, without the unappealing oil layer.